Perfect Diver Magazine 5 issue

diving

No. 5

3(5)/2019

Price 14,90 € Tax included

freediving

passion

knowledge

Two views of

bali

Sudan Antarctica 2019

the foreword

Wojciech Zgoła

Editor-in-Chief

Why are there here so many heat waves?! As if Africa was in Europe. But fortunately we know how to cool down and improve the mood. This magazine shows how to do it. We transfer our underwater activities to paper and multimedia screens. In this way we wish to tell non-divers: go to the water, do a basic diving or freediving course and feel the power of water!

And water has the power that we do not underestimate. Never. That is why we dive safely, and security is an important topic in this issue. I asked Maciej Jurasz to write a balanced text about this difficult topic in relation to many accidents that have taken place this year. Thank you Maciej for this text. We also have a publication by Irena Kosowska about the quality of diving training and its duration. Behind a diving course there is a specific instructor. An important personality in the life of every diver who begins his adventure with diving. DAN gives us information about panic, the normal one and the one that can happen to us underwater. And panic can unfortunately happen to everyone. It is worth being prepared for it, at least to some extent.

In his guide Wojtek A. Filip wrote about pragmatic decompression. This knowledge is rather advanced but very necessary for those who suffer from decompression. In the next issue, we will publish the second chapter of the article.

There will be beautiful photos and travel articles. Read about freediving with sharks. And by the way, would you jump in to swim with them? There is also a great piece on Sudan by Anna Sołoducha with photos of Piotr Kowalski. We have two views of Bali, one written by Sylwia Kosmalska-Juriewicz and the other one by Dagny Grądzka-Jurasz. In addition to that, we have got here photos of various authors, including the debut of a young and talented diver – Mikołaj Sobieraj.

In Poland, the TecLine Academy has been founded, open to every diver and freediver. I visited and saw the end of works before it opened. And I wrote a few words about it. Earlier, I had talked to Krzysztof Gawroński about business, diving and torches.

After a break in the 4th issue of the magazine, Jakub Banasiak comes back with a new article. There is a chance for whales that have been kept so far in captivity. Seaside sanctuaries are being created and this is what Jakub tells us about. We are also coming back with the subject of animals of the Baltic Sea. Among the highlights there are Belis Fantanele Lake in Romania and a very interesting opal mine in Dubnik and cold Antarctica. There are wrecks too, see for yourself. In general, please visit our magazine and have a look. It is worth it, because this issue is a really great job, served on a plate. You click and you have it. You click and you are underwater. And then you sleep better!

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

3

ta b l e o f co n t e n t s

travels 10 It is easy to get here, but it is difficult to leave 18 Bali. Love, eat and… dive 28 Sudan 64 Antarctica 2019, in the footsteps of Shackleton 80 Belis-Fantanele Lake, Transylvania 94 Between Scylla and Charybdis, the Strait of Messina

from a freediver's perspective 24

Freediving with sharks

planet earth 38

64

Seaside sanctuaries, a chance for whales kept in captivity

100

European flounder, Baltic Chameleon

102

Swans, heavy weight aviators

110

Ghost Fishing Poland, we draw nets from the wrecks of the Baltic Sea!

our conversation 44 About business, diving and flashlights

knowledge 50

Quality of diving trainings

54

Panic

58

A diving accident, meaning everything is fine

100

until…

112

I came, I saw, I tell – the TecLine Academy

archaeology 62 A sunken church. "Mister!" There is a sunken church in this lake!!!

4

74

caves 74

Opalescence opals…

Publisher perfect diver wojciech zgoła

wrecks

ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo redakcja@perfectdiver.com

82

Schleswig

88

Wrecks of Istria

ISsN 254-3319

82

editor in chief

Wojciech Zgoła

columnist

Irena Kosowska

underwater archeology

Mateusz Popek

freediving photographer english language translators

Agnieszka Kalska Jakub Degee Agnieszka Gumiela-Pająkowska Arleta Kaźmierczak

legal care graphic design and composition

Lawyer Joanna Wajsnis Brygida Jackowiak-Rydzak

the magazine was folded with typefaces

Montserrat (Julieta Ulanovsky) Open Sans (Ascender Fonts) Spectral (Production Type) printing Wieland Drukarnia Cyfrowa, Poznań, www.wieland.com.pl

tips & curiosities 98

OTS Guardian

115

Pragmatic decompression (part 1)

distribution dive centers, online store

preorder@perfectdiver.com

professional diving 106 A subjective review of fairs and events related to professional diving in Poland

cover photo

Marcello Di Francesco model

Mola Mola (Sunfish)

events

place

Ligurian Sea

109 Report from the conference – European Conference on Scientific Diving www.perfectdiver.com

106

The Editorial Office does not return unsolicited materials, is not responsible for the content of advertisements and reserves the right to shorten, edit, title the submitted texts and select illustrative materials. Reprinting of articles or parts thereof, copying only with the consent of the Editorial Board.

Editors are not responsible for the form and content of advertisements.

If you like this issue, donate any amount!

Donation is voluntary.

PayPal.Me/perfectdiver perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

5

e d i to r i a l t e a m

Wojciech Zgoła

irena kosowska

jakub degee

He often repeats that he travels by diving

Regional Manager Divers Alert Network Pols-

Polish photographer, winner of awards

and that is his motto. In 1985 he obtained

ka, diving and first aid instructor, technical

and distinctions in world underwater pho-

a yacht sailor's license, and only in 2006

diver and cave diver. In love with all flood-

tography competitions, has already dived

began to dive. In the following years he

ed, dark, cold, tight places and invariably

all over the world: with sharks and whales

improved his skills by obtaining the Dive

from the beginning of the diving route – in

in South Africa, with orcs behind the Arctic

Master degree. He completed nearly 650

the Baltic. Implementing the DAN mission,

Circle, on Galapagos with hundreds of ham-

dives in various climatic conditions. Since

he conducts a series of lectures "Dive safe-

merhead sharks and humpback whales

2007, he has been taking photographs un-

ly" and Diving Safety Laboratory, so field

in the Tonga Islands. He participates in

derwater, and since 2008 he has also been

research of divers for scientific purposes.

specialist photographic workshops. He

filming. As an independent journalist, he

has been diving for 27 years, he started at

published dozens of articles, mainly in

the age of 12 – as soon as it was formally

journals dedicated to diving, but not only.

possible. He was the first in the world to

Co-author of photo exhibitions in Poland

use the Hasselblad X1d-50c camera for un-

and abroad. He is passionate about and

derwater macro photography. Recently, in

propagator of diving.

the remote Chincorro archipelago on the

Since 2008 he has been running his own

border between Mexico and Belize, he did

website www.dive-adventure.eu. On the

it again, taking a successful attempt to pho-

basis of extensive experience, in August

tograph the eye of a crocodile with a mac-

2018 he created the new Perfect Diver

ro lens with an additional magnifying lens,

Magazine.

which is the world's largest photo of the crocodile's eye living in the wild (in terms of pixel count, print size, quality).

Mateusz Popek

Agnieszka kalska

"My passion, work and life are under water."

"I can not imagine life without water, where

He has been diving since 2009. Since 2008,

I experience freedom of the spirit in my free

he's walking in caves. Underwater archeol-

body."

ogist by education. He participated in nu-

●● founder of the first freediving and swim-

merous projects in Poland and abroad. He

ming school in Poland – FREEBODY,

has been engaged in professional diving

●● freediving instructor Apnea Academy In-

since 2011. In 2013 he obtained the qualifi-

ternational and PADI Master Freediver,

cations of a 2nd class diver. Has experience

●● record holder and multiple medalist of

in underwater work both at sea and inland.

the Polish Championships, member of the

Since 2013 he has been diving in caves, es-

national team in freediving 2013–2018,

pecially in the mountains, and since 2014

●● finalist of the Freediving World Cham-

he is a diving instructor CMAS M1.

pionships 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018, ●● a Polish national championship champion and a member of the national team in swimming in 1998–2003, ●● passionate about freediving and swimming.

o u r au t h o r s

maciej jurasz

Bartosz Pszczółkowski

wojciech a. filip

The owner of the Płetwal Poznań diving center,

Has more than 8000 dives on his account. He

That's my name and I come from Poznań. I have

a graduate of the Poznan Academy of Physical Edu-

has been diving for over 30 years, including over

been associated with water practically from birth

cation, expert in diving at the Poznan District Court.

20 years as a technical diver. He is a professional

and with diving since I learned to walk. My grandfa-

A PADI, TDI, SSI and CEDIP instructor. Since 2012,

with great theoretical and practical knowledge. He

ther instilled my passion for the underwater world,

a PADI Course Director, as well as Tec Rec OC Trimx

is an instructor of many federations: GUE Instruc-

a CMAS*** instructor taking me to the lakes at any

Trainer Instructor. As the first, and so far the only

tor Mentor, CMAS**, IANTD nTMX, IDCS PADI, EFR,

free time. I obtained my first qualifications in 1996.

Pole in the history of PADI, he became the Tec 100

TMX Gas Blender. He participated in many diving

A year later I went to Croatia and literally went crazy

CCR Trainer Instructor. Awarded many times the title

projects and conferences as a leader, explorer,

at the sight of blue water, octopus and colorful fish;)

of 'Elite Instructor' in 2013; in 2016 and 2017 'Silver

originator or lecturer. These included the Britannic

I bought my first underwater camera – Olympus

Course Director'. In 2018, he received the highest

Expedition 2016, Morpheus Cave Scientific Project

5060 and started the adventure with underwater

distinction in the PADI system – ‘Platinum Course

on Croatia caves, GROM Expedition in Narvik, Tuna

photography. I acquired my diving experience in the

Director’, which so-far received only three Poles in

Mine Deep Dive, Glavas Cave in Croatia, NOA-MA-

Canary Islands, Sardinia, Norway, Maldives and in

the entire history of PADI. The training is carried out

RINE. Professionally, he is a technical director at

Polish lakes. I am currently a Padi and ESA instruc-

in various regions of the world in cooperation with

TecLine in Scubatech, and a director of training at

tor, I train diving enthusiasts in Europe and pass my

many dive centers and instructors. He completed

TecLine Academy.

passion on to others.

over 3,500 dives, issued over 2,500 certificates, includ-

I invite all lovers of the underwater world and pho-

ing over 500 at the instructor level. He made, among

tography to Beediver (FB) - see you soon.

other things, a partner diving at 151 m, and a team diving during which, for the first time in the world at a depth of 100 m, the Rubik's cube was solved.

Dagny grądzka-jurasz

robert styła

Anna sołoducha

The owner of the Płetwal Poznań diving centre,

President of Ocean-Tech Sp. z o. o., IT NAUI, wreck

A graduate of Geography faculty at the University of

a lawyer by education, a PADI Assistant Instructor.

and cave diver. "Diving is not just about equipment.

Wrocław and an incurable optimist… with a perma-

For 10 years a happy wife and a mother of two sons,

It is also discovering secrets and an opportunity to

nent smile on her lips! It was probably Destiny that

Ignacy and Henryk. Until 2017 she worked as an as-

reach places that an ordinary mortal has no chance

led her to Activtour… and she's been here on per-

sistant of a legal counsel in Poznań, but for the last

to see. Over ten years ago, for this passion, I aban-

manent basis. She passionately fulfils the dreams of

2 years she has been completely devoted to the div-

doned the prospering business and founded the

many, organizing diving trips around the world, and

ing center. Since then, she has organized dozens of

company Ocean-Tech, which in fact is an online store

she has already been diving for more than half of

domestic and foreign dive trips. For a year she has

www.nurkowyswiat.pl"

her life. Each year she explores a different ‘piece of

been trying to extend her expeditions further and

the ocean’, pinning another pin to her diving world

combine them with sightseeing trips. In her spare

map. In winter she changes fins into her beloved

time she runs away with her husband to the moun-

skis and gets away into the Alps. A recipe for life?

tains in the attempt to reach the Crown of Polish

"The only a dead trunk flows with the current – the

Mountains in the near future.

explorer's canoe flows up the river!" www.activtour.pl, anna@activtour.pl

sylwia kosmalska-juriewicz A traveller and a photographer of wild nature. A graduate of journalism and a lover of good literature. She lives in harmony with nature, promotes a healthy lifestyle: she is a yogini and a vegetarian. Also engaged in ecological projects. Sharks and their protection are especially close to her heart. She writes about the subject in numerous articles and on her blog www.divingandtravel.pl. She began her adventure with diving fifteen years ago by total coincidence. Today she is a Divemaster, she visited over 60 countries and dived on 5 continents. She invites us for a joint journey with the travel agency www.dive-away.pl, of which she is a co-founder.

o u r au t h o r s

radosław zajkowski

olgierd stieler

bartek trzciński

Instructor of recreational and technical diving, a re-

PADI underwater photography instructor, assistant

He started diving as a 12-year-old and from the very

breather instructor, and also a cave diver. He has

professor at the Poznań University of Medical Scienc-

beginning he knew that he would connect his life

been teaching diving for over 13 years. He started

es. Hobbies – typically water; diving, sailing, traveling.

with diving – including his professional life. This also

his diving adventure while serving in special units,

The Master of Wielkopolska in sailing in the Ome-

happened 11 years and several hundred dives later,

where he also acquired the certificate of a high

ga class of 2017 and 2018, currently competing in

when after graduating in France he started work-

altitude helicopter rescue operations instructor.

the class of Delphia 24. Involved in medical activity

ing as a representative of the TecLine / Scubatech

Currently, he is involved in the project of creating

in Africa – the Redemptoris Missio Foundation for

company. In parallel – he continued to develop in

the training programmers for a diving organization

Medical Assistance Missions. An expert of the Great

diving, already as a technical diver Global Underwa-

ISSF. He highly appreciates good training and ethics

Orchestra of Christmas Charity and a member of the

ter Explorers (GUE). In 2019, BarTek began to share

at every aspect of diving activity.

Ławica Staff of the Great Orchestra in Poznań. He

his passion for diving as a GUE instructor. He is also

also conducts classes in physics and diving medicine

one of the founders of the Polish 'chapter' of the

at the University. The owner of the seafari.pl website.

global ecological action: Ghost Fishing.

zbigniew rogoziński A passionate and enthusiast of diving, he photographs amateurly and likes to know what he sees under the water, what are the names of the animals he calls and what stories hide the wrecks. He has been diving since 2009, getting the PADI Instructor Assistant degree, and in 2010 he and his friends opened a diving school and Wolsztyn Diving Club Bad Fish.

agata turowicz

Since I was a child, I had dreamed of becoming a marine biologist and I managed to fulfill that dream. I did a degree in oceanography, where I recently started my doctoral studies. My diving adventure began when I was 12 years old. I love observing the underwater life up close and I try to show other divers how fascinating the underwater, Baltic creatures are.

adrian juriewicz

agnieszka blandzi

A traveler, photographer and the underwater world

A doctor of philosophy by education, a byzantolo-

filmmaker, an Asian cuisine enthusiast and a PADI

gist, for ten years with great passion a technical and

diving instructor. He visited over 70 countries and

cave diver, a passionate underwater archaeologist.

dived on 5 continents (the other two are planned

Every day, she advises companies on how to create

for next year's expeditions). For several years he has

their business image, also deals with public rela-

also been an instructor and trainer of the unmanned

tion and brand promotion. She constantly tries to

aircraft flights. A co-author of a travel agency for

acquire knowledge, train and dive as often as pos-

divers www.dive-away.pl. He documents his expedi-

sible – live consciously with care for the balance of

tions with photos and descriptions of his journeys

body and spirit. Favorite waters are Polish diving

on his blog www.divingandtravel.pl

sites, Ohrid Lake in Macedonia, the Baltic Sea and the Mediterranean Sea.

bartek pitala A boring programmer by education and profession, a diver by years of passion. An amateur of underwater photography and video in a budget version. For years fascinated with places "with history" – mines, bunkers, and of course wrecks – and (though not necessarily in this order) caves in which with his own eyes he can see the wonders created by nature, if left her free hand and several million years to act.

jakub banasiak

Diver from 2008. Passionate of the Red Sea and pelagic ocean predators. Devoted to the idea of protecting dolphins, sharks and whales. He dives mainly where you can meet these animals and monitor the level of their well-being. Member of Dolphinaria-Free Europe Coalition, volunteer at Tethys Research Institute and Cetacean Research & Rescue Unit, associate of Marine Connection. For 10 years he has been involved in research on wild dolphin populations and audits dolphinariums. Together with the team "NO! For the Dolphinarium" he prevents dolphins from captivity and promotes knowledge about dolphin therapy unsaid or concealed by centers which make money on this form of animal therapy.

mikołaj sobieraj

piotr kowalski

wojciech jarosz A graduate of two Poznan universities, the Acade-

He began his adventure with diving and underwater

A traveller since the age of twelve, he loves new

my of Physical Education (coaching specialization –

photography in the seventies. The development of

challenges and leaving his comfort zone. A student

handball) and the University of A. Mickiewicz, Facul-

digital photography two decades ago fully allowed

of a bilingual class with the Spanish language of

ty of Biology (specialty of experimental biology). He

him to realize his passions. He photographed in

XVII LO in Poznań. Diving passion was instilled in

connected his professional life with this first univer-

many places on many continents. He has not been

him by his parents. While other children were chas-

sity trying to influence the direction of development

to many places yet, which is why he tries to or-

ing after pigeons in the Old Market Square, he was

of future professionals on the one hand, and on the

ganize a further trip at least once a year. He likes

chasing manta rays in the depths of the Red Sea.

other planning and implementing research, push-

photography in Polish waters and it gives him a lot

He is constantly looking for new, interesting places,

ing laboriously in the right direction of the stroller

of satisfaction, mainly because he is not limited by

and also loves meeting new people and getting to

called science. In his free time he spends his time

time. He photographs mainly for his own pleasure,

know their stories, constant curiosity and lack of

actively – his main passions are sailing (sea helms-

which does not mean that he has never happened

any prejudices allows him to experience unforgetta-

man), skiing (downhill skiing instructor), riding

to exhibit his works, take part in photo competitions

ble adventures, both on land and underwater. Since

a motorcycle, recreational diving and many other

and even win them. He is an active CMAS diving

recently he is a kitesurfing lover and an avid skier.

activities, as well as photography, mainly nature.

instructor and underwater photography instructor.

He dreams that travelling becomes his way of life.

marcin trzciński

karol pencil ołówek Karol's first contact with diving was innocent and accidental. He began with snorkeling in Bulgaria and

A graduate of the University of Warsaw. An under-

Greece in the late 90s. A little later, after taking the first course, diving became his passion. Since then, he

water photographer and filmmaker, has been div-

has passed all levels of training. He worked as an underwater guide in several countries and worked on

ing since 1995. A co-operator at the Department of

shellfish harvesting in cold Scottish waters. By profession, he is a logistics manager, which makes it very

Underwater Archeology at the University of War-

easy for him to organize diving trips. An enthusiast of flooded caves, a speleologist, seeker of abandoned

saw. He publishes in diving magazines in Poland

places (mines, adits, factories). A SDI/TDI diving and first aid instructor. He thinks that what makes a good

and abroad. The owner of the FotoPodwodna com-

diver is arduous training in various conditions. The admirer of the Balkans, which he has been visiting for

pany which is the Polish representative of Ikelite,

20 years. He loves underwater photography, wild mountains, Asia and its cuisine, black humor and happy

Nauticam, Inon, ScubaLamp companies.

company on trips. A SeaYa Ambassador.

www.fotopodwodna.pl, m.trzcinski@fotopodwodna.pl

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to idealy pomysł na oryginalny i wyjątkowy prezent.

t r av e l s

It is easy to get here, but it is difficult to leave

10

Text sylwia kosmalska-juriewicz

Photos Adrian juriewicz

When we first arrived at Nusa Ceningan, we noticed a wooden plaque with the inscription that we did not understand then: "It is easy to get here, but it is difficult to leave"…

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

11

Sumatra

Java

Bali Timor

Nusa lembongan

It is good to come back home… I thought… I am in Indonesia again. For a moment I felt as if I had never left this place.

Nusa ceningan Nusa Penida

I

We get in the car and go under the "Yellow Bridge". am in a place where I feel hap-

A yellow suspension bridge that connects the island

piness all day long. At dawn,

of Nusa Lembongan with the island of Nusa Cenin-

when I am woken up by roost-

gan. These two islands are separated by a small

ers crowing and birds singing, at

strait where numerous fishing vessels, diving and

noon, when the air is saturated

transport boats arrive. From the bridge there is

with the scent of incense, flow-

a beautiful view of a mangrove forest and a blue la-

ers and the ocean, in the evening when I admire

goon. It is from here that every day at dawn we sail

the sunset in the company of people close to me…

to dive and from here we get a boat to the island of Nusa Penida. The yellow bridge is very narrow and

Nusa Penida, Nusa Ceningan and Nusa Lembongan

it is difficult for two motor scooters to pass each

are three small Indonesian islands located south

other. Thanks to this, Nusa Ceningan has retained

of the well-known island of Bali. Each of them is

its original character and is not trampled by tourists

unique and has its own individual charm.

like its sister Nusa Lembongan, where many boats arrive with tourists from all over the world. Both

There is a low tide today, our boat cannot reach the

islands are almost identical in terms of culture and

shore, it stops several dozen meters from the coast

have similar natural features.

of the island of Nusa Lembongan. Only dogs are

12

happy about the situation and they are happy to

Nusa Ceningan is the smallest of the archipelago,

look for delicacies in the shallow water: fish, crabs

located between the more popular Nusa Lembon-

and other crustaceans, which they eat with joy. We

gan and the more virgin Nusa Penida. It is best

reach the island in the late afternoon, the water is

to move around by scooter, bike or on foot. The

pleasantly warm, and the sand even burns my feet.

places most visited by tourists include the view-

point from which there is a breathtaking view of the blue lagoon, or the Secret Beach where you can relax in a cosy paradise of white sand and swim in shallow, emerald water. There is also a steep cliff with a restaurant on top. From there you can watch surfers struggling with huge waves and admire spectacular sunsets.

Nusa Ceningan wakes up every day before dawn at the first cockcrow and there are a lot of cocks on the island. For me, the sunrise is the perfect time to go to the ocean and start the day with yoga. This practice gives a lot of positive energy for the whole day. It is also very helpful while diving. Since I have been practicing yoga regularly, I have more control over my body, so I swim more efficiently and use less air during a dive. Breathing exercises that I do also allow me to get into a state of relaxation. This technique is very useful especially when we start our adventure with diving and everything around us is new and can cause slight anxiety.

On Nusa Ceningan time has slowed down to a minimum, I do not know what is the day of the week, sometimes even what time it is. We live in a wooden villa located in an exotic garden where my favourite almond trees grow with flowers that

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

13

itself three times a day: in the morning, at noon

The inhabitants of the island believe in being good, Putu always repeats – "the more

and in the evening. In small bamboo baskets she places rice, flower and cookies, she burns incense and prays quietly for the well-being of herself and her relatives throughout the day. The inhabitants

good you do to others, the

of the island believe in being good, Putu always

more of it comes back to you".

repeats – "the more good you do to others, the more of it comes back to you". We Europeans are in a hurry all the time and unfortunately we do not have time to enter a new day slowly, we do not

have a beautiful, stunning, sweet fragrance. It is

have time for a small coffee, for a smile… I experi-

a small family-run business where everyone puts

ence simple pleasures at Nusa Ceningan and cele-

lots of love and energy into making every guest feel

brate every day.

at home.

After a delicious breakfast, we get on the scooter

14

I go out with a cup of coffee to the terrace and

and go to the Yellow Bridge. The dive boat is al-

watch Putu. The woman works at the hotel and we

ready waiting for us, we are sailing today around

made friends on the first day of our stay. With grace

the island of Nusa Penida, where there are some of

and emotion she carries a silver tray with gifts for

the most beautiful diving spots in the area – Man-

gods, goddesses and spirits. This ritual repeats

ta Point, Crystal Bay, SD, Manta Bay, Toyapakeh.

travels

Today we have a great chance to meet one of the

come.” The specimens of this amazing species are

most unusual fish in the world: the ocean sunfish

very large. An adult can weigh two tonnes, and the

(Mola mola).

fin width is up to three meters. After a moment, the gifts are taken by the current and disappear on the

We sail through a narrow and shallow strait. On

horizon, rocked by waves…

the left we pass a mangrove forest, which is an ideal "incubator" for numerous schools of small fish.

It is a hot September forenoon. The air tempera-

Among the mangrove they found asylum against

ture exceeds the pleasant 28°C, I bask in the sun

attacks by predators.

and slowly put on diving equipment: 7 mm foam, 3 mm insulator, 3 mm hood. I missed the sun so

The boat is getting faster, it is a sign that we are

much that the heat does not bother me at all, my

sailing to open sea. We reach Crystal Bay on the

personal thermostat adapts perfectly to the new

west part of Nusa Penida within 15 minutes in our

climatic conditions. I sit on the starboard side of

speed boat, but before we jump into the water,

the boat and on the count of three we dive into the

the captain will ask spirits and gods to protect us

icy water with a great splash. From June to October

during the dive. He puts two thanksgiving baskets

the temperature of the water off the coast of the

on the water and lights the incense. Holding petals

island of Nusa Penida drops from 29°C to 17°C.

of flowers in his hand he is praying quietly. "Work

This is due to the cold tidal currents that appear in

your charms, captain", I thought. “Tame the ocean,

the area at this time of year. We immerse ourselves

you may need more incense to make Mola mola

slowly in the crystal clear Indian Ocean, the clarity

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

15

of water is awesome, over 40 m of visibility. The

The large specimens of Mola mola (sunfish in Eng-

rays of the sun penetrate through the water and

lish) appeared before our eyes at 10 meters, the

create luminous streaks. Crystal Bay is a unique

moment we were about to emerge having lost

place for diving due to the diverse marine fauna,

hope of meeting them. For the first time I had the

beautiful coral gardens, rays, cuttlefish, numerous

opportunity to see them close and at my fingertips.

schools of small fish, turtles, reef sharks and the

They looked so surreal that I could not believe they

most amazing fish in the world – Mola mola.

really existed. I could see their flat, strong bodies, the high dorsal fin, the shiny velvet skin, the small

At the end of the dive, three large sized flattened

mouth. These fish usually occur at considerable

shapes appear, swimming close to each other.

depths, but in the period from June to October,

For a moment the world stopped, time stood still,

they flow to the surface with a cooler current, to

and we held our breath. For that moment we

undergo the "care treatments" provided by small

have been waiting for a long time. I have a great

cleaner fish.

desire to dance with delight and shout for joy

16

into the regulator. I start to smile and tears of

With each moment the atmosphere became more

emotion come to my eyes. My dream has come

and more elevated. Equally exciting as Mola mola

true threefold.

were the reactions of divers with whom I was un-

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podróże

Lord GaneshA God with the head of an elephant. Followers believe that he removes all obstacles and helps to implement life plans. Considered to be a god of abundance and prosperity. Supports active people and helps them fulfil their dreams. Ganesha from the photo stood in front of the entrance to the hotel where we lived on Nusa Ceningan.

His task is to provide the owner and his family with a prosperous life.

derwater. A unique moment, when all that happened – joy, surprise, Mola mola, emotion – all created one unforgettable experience.

Apparently life is not about breathing, but about the moments in which we hold our breath... On this day, there were more similar moments, also when we were diving with manta rays at a place called Manta Point. It was a time full of impressions. A day that happens once in a million, determined by our attitude to the world, our sensitivity. Positive attitude to life and to what surrounds us makes miracles happen. Regardless of whether we are walking on land or diving.

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

17

t r av e l s

B

18

ali is one of about 16 thousand islands belong-

eastern part, more precisely in the town of Cand

ing to Indonesia in the Sunda Islands archipela-

Dasa. This side of the island is the most attrac-

go. The area of Bali is 5.6 thousand km², its length

tive diving destination. Beaches here are mainly

is 150 km and the width is 80 km. Arriving here,

stony due to the fact that Bali is a volcanic island.

we land in the administrative capital of the island –

The highest peak is the Agung volcano rising to

Denpasar, from where a network of roads spreads

3142 m above sea level, about which there are a lot

over the entire island. We decided to stay in the

of beliefs.

BALI

CANDI DASA

Bali

love, eat and… dive

Text dagny grądzka-jurasz

Indonesia has been present in my heart and dreams for several years, and since it has become a summer destination for my friends and acquaintances, I decided to gather a group of divers and start to conquer Bali. However, I should start from the beginning…

Photo Benthos Bali

The island welcomed us with 35-degree heat and

(Islam accounts for about 12%). The foundation of

high humidity – about 82%. After about 19 hour

faith is karma and giving gifts to the gods. You can

journey, we felt like sardines in an oil can.

see it at every step, literally… The Balinese offer gifts on the pavement, on car hoods, on numerous

The natives are very friendly, smiling and helpful. It

idols in the streets. The gift is the size of a hand,

is possibly due to Bali's dominant religion – Balinese

it consists of a banana leaf, fruit, vegetables and

Hinduism – practised by over 80% of the population

a candy. What counts is the moment and the inten-

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

19

Photo Piotr Matysiak

Photo Piotr Matysiak

tion of a giver, the fate of a gift depends on one's

with motor scooters on which families of 4–5 peo-

individual karma. After that, people, monkeys and

ple often travel.

dogs can freely "eat" from the bowl of gifts. Personally, I did not see in Bali people begging in the

The Balinese cuisine is fresh, aromatic and based

streets or attempting to cheat or get money from

on freshly caught fish, seafood and chicken. For

passers-by. I only heard rumours about the Bulgar-

each serving we receive a portion of rice, red on-

ian mafia (how come the Bulgarians?), plundering

ion with chilli and grilled vegetables, as standard.

cash machines or attempting to cheat tourists in

The best food we got was in small wok bars, open

exchange offices. It seems not difficult, because the

during unknown hours, and certainly not regulated.

currency in Bali is the Indonesian rupee, the small-

On average, a dish in this bar cost about 8–10 $.

est denomination banknote is probably 5000, so

You can, of course, go to an international restau-

exchanging 100 euros I received 1.4 million rupees.

rant, however, you have to reckon with the fact that

I also exchanged money for my group and felt like

the food can be pre-prepared, and without native

a millionaire walking through Candi Dasa streets

spices. In this way, I came across a bland breaded

with a few million in my pocket…

tuna steak… I do not recommend it, the worst spent $ 25 in Bali.

The villages are not much different from one an-

20

other, but they are characterised by the famous

I based my diving trip in the Benthos Bali diving

Balinese architecture. Wooden decorations or clay

base, which I found among the PADI partners on

idols can be found in every household, hotel or

the website www.padi.com, where the co-owners

restaurant. What is most noticeable is road traffic.

are the delightful Polish couple Kasia and Maciek

Firstly, it is left-sided as a remnant of the Japanese

Perepeczo. The base is in Candi Dasa, open all year.

occupation, and secondly, narrow streets are filled

At the entrance, we were welcomed by a friendly

podróże

Photo BenthosBali

Photo Mikołaj Sobieraj

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

21

Photo Mikołaj Sobieraj

Balinese woman, dealing with the reception. Next

During the majority of diving trips, transport on water is provided by a traditional

are the whole logistical facilities of the base, diving equipment, a bar with great food, a pool up to 3 m deep and several bungalows for divers. I give an A plus to this diving base for its service and con-

Balinese fishing boat –

ditions. This certainly will not be the last time we

Jukung (…). On the boat there

went to Benthos on holiday!

is an average of 3–8 people, (…)

Kasia and Maciej organised 13 great dives for us in the top locations around Bali. Diving in Bali in my opinion is quite demanding, because often we

Photo Piotr Matysiak

meet strong currents underwater, not very kind to a diver. We spent most of the dives on beautiful, vivid and very colourful reefs, where not only schools of fish but also turtles and octopuses live.

We came across those two kinds of animals practically on every dive. Visibility under water ranges from a dozen or so meters to about 20–30 m.

There are also numerous caverns, and in the Gili Biaha diving site we met a nice herd of reef sharks with about 13 specimens. One cavern is located at a depth of about 9 m. It has a wide entrance, therefore it is accessible to every diver. Next to the famous island of Nusa Penida, mainly known to tourists for its swing with ocean views, by us it will be remembered as one of the greatest experiences underwater. On a local speedboat we got to one of the manta ray cleaning stations. Diving at a dizzying depth of 5–7 m, we found ourselves among a few

22

of about 7 m. Fear of divers is unknown to them, so you can be really close to these magical creatures.

During the majority of diving trips, transport on water is provided by a traditional Balinese fishing boat – Jukung, a few miniature models of which I brought with me to Poland. On the boat there is an average of 3–8 people, depending on the size of the boat and whether the travellers are diving or just snorkelling, which in Bali can also provide a lot of excitement. We could not miss a dive on the USS Liberty, the wreck of an American ship that had been pushed by lava into the water in the 1960s. We start the tour from 7 m and finish at a depth of 30 m. The wreck is entirely covered with beautiful corals, inhabited by crabs, clownfish, moray eels, turtles. At times it was possible to get lost, whether we were swimming on the reef or on the wreck.

A night dive turned out to be the most interesting. For the first time in my life I saw an "electric fish", which is nothing but a mollusc that reacts to light like a burning-out light bulb. Additionally, by entering the only preserved chamber, we had the opportunity to meet a school of parrot fish, the largest individual being about 3 m in size. We just had to to stay still at the bottom so that they would calmly float around, every once in a while looking with curiosity at flying air bubbles.

In summary, I recommend Bali to anyone who likes jungle, waterfalls, picturesque landscapes, stunning views, exotic dives, tropical heat and lovable natives in one place.

Poznań, July 2019

Photo Piotr Matysiak

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to a dozen or so mantas, where the largest I met had the wingspan

from a freediver ' s perspective

Freediving with sharks Text and photos Agnieszka kalska

One day I asked: "What is your dream?" After a moment of reflection, I heard: "I would like to dive with sharks." I answered, "With sharks? Well…" and I immediately thought that this dream could come true.

I

had never before looked for such a destination.

I heard about several locations where sharks can

be found and it is possible to dive with them without a cage. A friend from the editorial office, Jakub Degee, came to help. He had close encounters with sharks already behind him. He himself offered to help us organise such a trip. After receiving answers to a million questions and dispelling the biggest doubts, we decided – we are going to freedive with sharks in South Africa.

24

The town where we stayed was located on the

The first day we spent on the beach watching huge

east coast south of Durban. After landing we had

waves that splashed on the rocks and flooded huge

to drive a few kilometres by car and only then real-

areas of sand. The force of the ocean was present

ized that the greatest danger in South Africa is not

in all its glory. The guide, who was to take us by

a meeting with sharks! A white man from outside

boat to the dive site, cancelled the trip due to those

the African continent may feel from the beginning

conditions. None of us even tried to undermine this

that he is not at home, and the landscape along the

decision. Fortunately, the next four days turned out

highway seems to be saying, it is better not to stick

to be more favourable.

your nose out of the hotel…

In order to get to the specific location where we The weather forecasts for the few days we were

could meet sharks, it was necessary to overcome

to spend in water were not favourable. We knew

the waves. Everyone was supposed to put on a life

that rain, wind and storms during this period are

jacket, and with their feet and hands hold on to the

a norm and it is possible that we would not sail

boat tightly. To make it through the rough sea, the

out once if weather conditions were not adequate.

guide circled and approached the breaking waves

We planned 5 diving days and hoped that we could

several times. Every next wave was too high, fast

go to the ocean even once. This, however, did not

and violent to do it safely. We heard about stories

give any guarantee that we would manage to meet

when sailing towards a dangerous wave ended

sharks that day.

badly. We waited patiently until finally after 30 min-

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

25

utes we managed to get through – a rollercoaster

Till the end I was wondering if I really wanted to

compared to this is not a big deal!

dive with sharks. This event did not encourage me to take a positive decision. We had to turn back

There were many species of sharks in the area. We

for the new bait ashore and overcome the waves

planned to dive with "oceanic blacktip" sharks, but it

again. We returned to the same place and again

did not mean that the others would stay away from

we managed to attract the appropriate diving com-

us… We learned this quite quickly. When we arrived

panions. The guide instructed us about the proper

at our site, the guide began to lure sharks. He stuck

behaviour in water, about keeping the hands to

out overboard a metal ball with a bait attached to

ourselves and, above all, avoiding excessive splash-

thick sticks. After a while, we saw shark fins around

ing and stirring up the water. The moment of my

the boat. At first, one circled around us, then two

decision to enter the water was quite accidental.

until the third appeared and the guide decided that

When I was almost ready, I just slipped off the side

we could enter the water. He jumped in as the first

and dropped into the water. However, the sharks

to check out the surroundings, and we began to

circling nearby were not very impressed. I put the

get ready, joking whom he will throw first to be eat-

fins on my feet, took the camera in my hand and

en. However, we did not manage to immerse even

I was already swimming and diving among sharks,

a fin before the guide found himself back on the

and it did not bother them at all. Fantastic!

boat. It turned out that our bait had disappeared.

26

After taking out the fixing frame, we saw that it was

When we both became accustomed to this compa-

bitten off… The perpetrator was probably a tiger

ny, we started posing with sharks for photos and

shark, which was observed by the guide. Inside me,

making films. So busy with taking pictures, we did

a gentle disappointment mixed with a slight terror.

not even notice that around us there were already

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twenty of them! Sharks brushed against us fighting for flying sardines thrown by the guide directly in front of the lens. More than once, we felt the strength and power of a shark's tail, when in the heat of the struggle for food it had to turn back in order not to bump into us. The scenes were like from a good horror movie, but once we understood that the sharks were not interested in us but only in sardines, we felt the peace that can be compared to the serenity of swimming with turtles. My feeling of peace and security disappeared completely when we started watching recorded films in the evening… I was terrified of what we were able to capture. Only then did the realization of a real threat come to me, if only the shark had mistaken us for a sardine!

The next day I hesitated much more whether I wanted to go into the water with them. I knew, however, that the risk of being bitten by this species was really low and I must overcome the fears amplified

by Hollywood films. Ultimately, I went into the water again on the second, third and fourth days. Sharks obviously do not have a taste for neoprene freedivers – as long as the divers behave properly. The very experience of closeness to an open mouth of a shark will remain in my memory as a way to overcome the fear of the stereotype of a monster attacking everything that moves. Sharks do not hurt people without a reason. But why constantly do people so cruelly harm the sharks?

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

27

t r av e l s

Sudan Text Anna Sołoducha

Photos piotr kowalski

It is our hope that children born today will have in twenty years' time some green grass under bare feet, fresh air to breathe, some blue water to sail and a whale on the horizon to dream about.

Jacques Yves Cousteau

This is one of many illustrious sentences spoken by probably the most famous "father of the oceans" Jacques Cousteau.

When flying to Sudan, it is impossible not to get interested in him, because it was in this virgin African country that he showed the world that you can live underwater.

“The Silent World” delighted me once again on my diving trips, but who would have thought that the reason of my amazement would be so inconspicuous a place as Sudan?

28

More than three times shorter than the neighbouring coastline of Egypt, it offers something that makes us have the impression of diving in a different water than the well known Red Sea: the lack of a single "diving" soul during an eight-day diving safari. Only us and maybe… fishermen.

The very word "Sudan" is sometimes enough to discourage potential tourists or divers (whose number is still relatively small) from going there, since it evokes terrifying images. Until 2011, Sudan was the largest country in Africa, but after the state was separated into Sudan and South Sudan, the country lost a large land area, becoming the third largest country on the continent. Unfortunately, the media focus mainly on the turmoil of both countries and rarely emphasize their beauty, the life of the inhabitants and everything they have to offer. However, if anyone dares to break the stereotype of a dangerous country, he or she will certainly experience some of the best diving of their life…

Getting to Port Sudan, the main commercial and fishing port of Sudan, is possible in several ways.

We can choose between transfers via the UAE, Saudi Arabia and Egypt. I definitely recommend Dubai, where we stop for a night, but it is worth thinking about a two or three-day tour of the metropolis. However, if we have only one evening and morning, it is worth reserving the entry to the Sudan

L

ooking at the Sudanese land from

world's tallest building – Burj Khalifa (829 m!) Already before entering the plane I was under the impression

the moon, one can clearly see the

that I had one leg in another world…

boundary of this state, the state that

Tourists were scarce, the Sudanese,

once boasted of being the largest country in Africa

Egyptians and Saudi Arabians dominated,

and is now divided into two separate units: Sudan

although it was difficult to distinguish them.

and South Sudan. However, what for us – divers –

Instead of colourful suitcases or dive bags,

makes the biggest difference between the two

they looked after their precious packages –

countries is the 853 km long coastline of… Sudan.

boxes and boxes, TV sets, tape-packed food

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

29

bags… It could feel really "exotic". The airport in

cently to detain tourists' passports for the duration

Sudan can be described as… original. A few build-

of their stay (in our case a week) in order to obtain

ings resembling garages, halls, military hangars,

a visa and stick it in! Of course, it caused some

barracks… it is hard to describe. In addition to that,

controversy and fear that passports would not

there are gentlemen with rifles directing us to the

return to the owners, but it was really a standard

entrance. It is worth knowing that in Sudan it is

procedure in this country. An important piece of

forbidden to take pictures of objects that are im-

information for those travelling to Sudan is that

portant for the defence of the country (government

the passport must have a minimum of three blank

buildings, military facilities, communication hubs

pages and no Israeli visa. Do not go to Sudan other-

and main routes as well as bridges).

wise! The issue of baggage collection is also quite… original. Airport staff transfers all luggage to the

30

In the middle of the "arrivals hall" a group of tour-

belt manually. Taking into account the heat of the

ists gathers around the person checking our visa

sun and the amount of luggage (TV sets, house-

promise letters. The visa is granted for 30 days.

hold appliances, groceries and diving equipment),

Here, you will not find check-in desks, security

it almost hurt me to see the airport employees

gates or even automatic doors. From one room

carrying all those bags. Unfortunately, the airport

we go to another part of the same room, which

staff did not have any vehicles or luggage trolleys.

is gently separated by a wall, getting rid of… our

The waiting time for luggage can be estimated as

passports for our entire stay in Sudan. Yes, our

between 1.5 to 2 hours. Many of us thought that

passports. It was the normal procedure until re-

the luggage would simply not come. Usually it is

travels

not a major drama, but in the case of Sudan, such situation might create real difficulties.

With the exception of a few companies involved

When it comes to diving, Sudan is one of those places where you

in the organisation of diving safaris, before 2018

simply have to dive, even once

it was not possible to find a diving centre, diving

during your stay on Earth. Marine

base or equipment rental on land. There is also no

life will fully satisfy lovers of large

possibility to request to rent equipment on a boat…

Nobody said it would be easy!:) But fortunately, there were no unpleasant incidents.

pelagic animals (…), as well as fans of wrecks and diving history.

Travel time from the airport to the port is about 30–40 min. We pass vast plains, here and there transforming into small hills, but mostly flat, as well

well as fans of wrecks and diving history. Everyone

as mud huts and houses with thatched roofs, and

who dived in Sudan was never disappointed. This is

around them goats, camels and barefoot children.

an amazing place to dive in less known areas of the

After a while, the landscape changes – we can see

Red Sea. While in Egypt, hundreds of diving boats

bushes, savannah grass and even acacia trees. Port

sail on the waters of the same sea, this number in

Sudan is the largest seaport in Sudan. It was found-

Sudan is close to thirteen.

ed by the British in 1909 and from that moment it took over the role of the largest Sudanese port

When choosing a diving safari in Sudan, we have

from the port city of Suakin.

three or four routes available: the northern route, the southern route, the "ultimate trip" connecting

When it comes to diving, Sudan is one of those

the best places of the north and south, and the far

places where you simply have to dive, even once

south (border with Eritrea). We choose the north

during your stay on Earth. Marine life will fully sat-

route! It is characterized by beautiful, intact coral

isfy lovers of large pelagic animals such as hammer

reefs, lagoons and pinnacles, but above all – every-

sharks, grey reef sharks, large barracuda herds, as

day encounters with sharks (silky shark, grey reef

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

31

shark, hammerhead sharks)! One could list and

are running high. Is this really Sudan? And on top of

describe nearly ten diving sites worth seeing, but

all that, a barracuda herd swirls over the plateau.

there are some so significant that they can cer-

We are so close that we have the impression of

tainly be considered the showcase of the Sudan

being in the centre of subsea events. During the

diving business.

second dive in this place, we meet again the hammers and grey reef and white sharks. How can you

Angarosh Reef is one of the most famous local div-

not love diving?

ing sites. It is located south of the port of Sudan,

32

about three kilometres from Abington Reef. Prac-

After a few days spent at sea, we managed to set

tically every safari boat that goes south or north

foot on land. We come to one of the best diving

cannot fail to stop for a dive here! From Arabic, the

spots in the world – to the Sanganeb reef, which we

name means "Mother of sharks". We start diving

immediately recognise through a lighthouse visible

early in the morning. The reef has a drop shape

from a distance. Built in 1906 by the British, it is

and is easy to recognise. The first plateau leads to

a historic and iconic element of the marine nation-

a depth of 25 m and the second to a depth of 45 m.

al park located about 25 km east of Port Sudan.

We move from the south side of the island, along

Currently it is managed by the Sudanese Navy. The

the vertical walls of the reef to its opposite side.

lighthouse, fifty four meters high and ten meters

From the very beginning of the dive, the place is

in diameter, is one of the most important light-

affected by very strong currents. After a dozen or

houses in the Red Sea and is the best viewpoint

so minutes we see under us the silhouettes of ham-

overlooking amazing Sanganeb Reef. Sanganeb

merhead sharks circling around and in this way get-

Atoll is the only (!) atoll in the Red Sea. This atoll is

ting to a shallower depth. The view? Unforgettable!

a ring-shaped coral reef with a coral rim that en-

After a while, like a flying carpet, they swim under

circles a lagoon partially or completely. Sanganeb

us, providing an unforgettable spectacle! Emotions

Atoll was founded in 1990 and was the first marine

travels

National Park in Sudan. When it comes to diving, here is one of the most unique reef structures in the whole of the Red Sea, where steep slopes rise from the seabed at a depth of 800 m. We descend immediately to a depth of 30 m and a dolphin pod appears before our eyes!!! The reef is famous for its abundant wealth of marine wildlife – there are at least three hundred species of fish living here, including numerous endemics and rare species of sharks, dolphins, sea turtles and molluscs. During the dives we admire once again schools of barracudas swirling in the depths, grey sharks gliding calmly underwater, large groupers and a school of trevallies. Between dives, we sail on zodiacs to a jetty, where several Sudanese soldiers greet us.

The sun burns mercilessly, and there were two hundred sixty eight spiral steps ahead, leading to the top of the lighthouse. In retrospect, I can say that it was a most beautiful "Stairway to Heaven"! The view we saw was hard to compare with anything else. The turquoise water of the atoll surrounding the lighthouse on each side was breathtaking. The atoll has been on the UNESCO list since 2016, and it is certainly "the best of the best" of the Red Sea! The stay on our 40-meter Andromeda boat was fantastic. An intense diving program and the deep dives gave us a hard time, and during every break between dives we slept on board. On the eve of diving on Shaab Rumi Reef, the ship's crew prepared a film screening for us – a documentary about Jacques Cousteau and his research station – Precontinent II which we were to see with our own eyes the very next day.

It was in Sudan, more than fifty years ago, that two famous pioneers of diving – Hans Hass and Jacques Yves Cousteau – filmed the amazing marine life.

Cousteau was a French naval officer, traveller and oceanographer, and above all a pioneer of diving, who devoted his entire life to marine discoveries.

His main interests were not only of great importance for science, but also aroused curiosity of public opinion. He gained absolute fame thanks to the underwater experiments he carried out in the early

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

33

the same place in 1963, the best oceanographers

What is left of the Cousteau research station in Sudan is a garage for an underwater vehicle, a hangar for equipment, shark cages. All these constructions are located at a depth of 7–15 m. Our dive is beautiful – long and calm.

and biologists lived there and conducted research.

It was an unforgettable lesson of diving history for me, which made us realize that "the world without the sun" can be as delightful as the one we know on the lands we explore.

In addition to coral reefs kept in excellent condition, unimaginable wealth of marine life and legendary places, such as the Cousteau research station, we

34

sixties. As part of the Precontinent II experiment he

can also see wrecks here. It is at Port Sudan where

spent a month living underwater, which he docu-

you can find a wreck which we can compare to

mented in the film entitled "World Without Sun". It

the one that is famous throughout the Red Sea –

is said that he chose the "Sudanese" Red Sea for his

SS Thistlegorm. Umbria was a passenger and cargo

experiment from all the seas in the world. Preconti-

ship and it has been lying for almost eighty years on

nent II is the last visible reminder of a series of three

the reef of Wingate, about five km from Port Sudan,

French underwater towns. The submarine "village",

at a depth of 25 m, resting on the left side at an an-

designed by the world-famous pioneer of oceanog-

gle of about 45 degrees. This Italian ship was built

raphy, was supposed to be proof that people can

in 1912 and it set sail for the last time in 1940, tak-

live underwater for a long time, at an increasing

ing on board, among others, over 360,000 bombs

depth. Underwater villages were also built to ex-

weighing from 15 to 100 kilograms, 60 boxes with

plore the underwater world and conduct research

detonators, cement bags, cars, 8,600 tons of ammu-

for the fuel industry that financed the project. The

nition and 1,500 Prosecco bottles. In June 1940, on

first underwater town, Precontinent I was in the

the way to Eritrea, the ship was detained by British

Balear Sea off the coast of Marseilles, the second –

soldiers who were well aware of what was on board

in Sudan. The location of the second Precontinental

and what would be used against the Allies as soon

village was chosen to be near the entrance to the

as the Italians announced their entry to World War

lagoon, next to the outer wall of the reef. The reef

II. When on June 10th, 1940, the captain of Umbria

was the perfect choice because her marine life is

heard on the radio Mussolini's speech declaring It-

one of the richest in the world! The project was

aly's entry into the war, he cleverly sank the ship,

called Precontinent II, which means – continental

taking earlier the entire crew to the lifeboats, so

shelf. The structures were attached to the bottom

that the cargo would not get into the hands of the

with steel ropes and two hundred tons of lead.

enemy. Therefore, the shipwreck has no mechani-

What is left of the Cousteau research station in Su-

cal damage. Diving boats cannot be moored on the

dan is a garage for an underwater vehicle, a hangar

wreck, thanks to which the ship is in perfect condi-

for equipment, shark cages. All these constructions

tion! We dived three times to the Umbria. The great

are located at a depth of 7–15 m. Our dive is beau-

visibility and total lack of other scuba divers is one

tiful – long and calm. The reef rich in marine life is

of the greatest assets of Umbria. The wreck, 155 m

perfectly illuminated. Without problem you can ex-

long and 18 m wide, makes you dizzy! More than

plore the underwater "garage" by entering inside.

1000 bottles of wine Prosecco (empty!) to this day

There are glassfish schools everywhere, and under

rest with the wreck. Three Fiats Topolino 1100 ver-

the structure we can see lionfish. All the remains

sion Lungo look as if they had just left the facto-

of the research station are beautifully overgrown

ry. Window glass is intact! When we swim through

by a reef. The sponges and soft corals are breath-

the restaurant, in front of my eyes I have frames

taking. Shaab Rumi makes an amazing impression,

from the film Titanic – sunlight comes through the

especially after watching a few hours earlier how, in

windows and portholes, giving an incredible charm

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

35

to the whole interior. Umbria is still alive. Virtually

through which sometimes we literally "crawled" on

every element of it is overgrown with a reef that

the reef. Waving soft corals, gorgonians, beautiful

attracts hundreds of sea creatures. Large shells,

red groupers, anemone forests, Jackfish herds and

hard and soft corals and anemones. You can see

mainly hammerhead sharks at every step. And on

the engine room, the kitchen, the captain's bridge

top of all this an amazing wreck and the remains

and five holds. In one of them, in an even row from

of the diving father's research station.

the top to the bottom lie… aerial bombs and boxes of ammunition. Such views evoke a huge thrill!

The trip ending was an excursion to the old port – Suakin. For more than 3,000 years, the port on the

After a week spent at sea, we again make our way

island of Suakin was of strategic importance for

to the port, which is full of life. In front of the stalls

powerful empires. At present, it is only a "broken

there are stacks of dates, dried chilli peppers, co-

relic of the wealth" that passed through its coral

riander seeds and of cardamom without which

walls from around the world. The port was con-

there is no real Sudanese coffee which tastes un-

stantly evolving from the 10th century BC – it had

like any other.

commercial and religious significance. It remained wealthy throughout all its life, transforming into

36

What impressed me about diving in Sudan is its di-

a rich, closed port on an island. But what is the

versity and spectacular dive spots. Each day was dif-

most interesting and the most beautiful in this port

ferent. At every step we met large representatives

is that every building was made of stunning cor-

of pelagic animals, we dived in a strong current,

al, and their walls were full of wooden and stone

advertisement

The sea, once it casts its charm, will keep you in its network of wonders forever.

decorations. Suakin was the pinnacle

Jacques Yves Cousteau

of medieval luxury on the Red Sea! In the nineteenth century, the port evolved for the last time, becoming a centre of slave trade from East Africa. As the slave trade dimin-

ished, the port became more and more unnecessary. In the 1920s, Suakin fell to ruin. Shallow waters and the rough coral moved the trade north to Port Sudan, and the coral buildings that used to be the crown jewel of the port began to crumble. Only ruins (once a large coral city) still exist and are carefully guarded as an important part of the tourism industry. For me it is a magical place, with real people and the real atmosphere of this country.

Sudan is a real gem on the world diving map. Fortunately, it is not so popular and touristy as the adjacent country of Egypt. Anyone who dives here at least once will certainly not be indifferent to the extraordinarily virgin reefs, the vast diversity of fauna and the marine harmony typical of Sudan.

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

37

planet earth

Seaside sanctuaries a chance for whales kept in captivity Text and photos jakub banasiak

The year 2019 is for dolphins and whales very special. The Russians have begun to release into the wild beluga whales and orcas caught for commercial reasons and held captive near Nakhodka. However, they do it in such a careless and unprofessional way that the survival of the released animals is in question. Canada has just adopted a law that prohibits holding cetaceans captive, and a while later Japan has announced that on July 1 it is returning to commercial whaling. Iceland, in turn, has said that this summer it is giving up whaling, which happened for the first time in 17 years… Good news constantly mixes with bad news…

38

iceland

sea. We believe that it will be the symbolic beginning of the end of a cruel business based on keeping these amazing marine Heimaey

mammals in concrete pools, away from the natural environment.

At the moment I write these words, Little Grey and Little White have already recovered from their exhausting journey, taking the right amount of food, and being quarantined in a special pool. In a few weeks they should be placed in their final place – in the natural bay on the island of Heimaey.

Created in collaboration with WDC (Whale and Dolphin Conservation) and SEA LIFE TRUST, the coastal sanctuary in Iceland is one of the greatest achievements in the care and protection of cetaceans in captivity for decades, and the first such facility in the world. This project will help support the rehabilitation of previously imprisoned marine mammals in their natural environment, and in the future probably will become a home for more released beluga whales. WDC also collaborates with other sanctuary projects, such as the Whale Sanctuary Project in North America and the Dolphin Sea Refuge in Italy.

The very term "nadmorskie sanktuarium" is

T

a calque from English ("seaside sanctuary"), but it is his swinging from good to bad news can

difficult to find a proper Polish equivalent here. For

make you dizzy. But among these numerous

it is not a nature reserve, and the word "asylum" is

pieces of news, the information about two be-

not quite adequate either. Well – new phenomena

luga whales, Little Grey and Little White from the

go beyond old definitions.

oceanarium Changfeng Ocean World in Shanghai remains a great source of hope and joy. They flew

A seaside sanctuary is a separate part of a natural

to Iceland where they will be released into the sea

body of water (usually a sea bay), fenced off by

to a specially prepared large enclosure in the bay

nets, in which whales held so far in a dolphinari-

of Klettsvik. Here a miracle is happening before

um and unable to live independently in freedom,

our eyes – the world's first, long-awaited, seaside

will be able to live out their years in conditions as

sanctuary for cetaceans – the place where, after

close to natural as possible, in the largest possible

years of captivity, these animals can return to the

space, in an aquatic environment adequate for its

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

39

species. They will be provided with protection and

diseases and the level of mortality of animals are

care as well as veterinary support and their welfare

very high there.

and autonomy will be a priority. In such places, contacts with caretakers will ultimately be limited

The potential location of a seaside sanctuary must

to an absolute minimum. Possible visitors will be

take into account weather conditions, currents, wa-

able to admire the animals only from a distance,

ter flow, tide levels, harmful algal blooms, species

from designated observation sites or through the

composition of the local ecosystem. At the same

use of a special camera system. The sanctuary can

time, the seaside sanctuary project has to assess

also be used as a place of rehabilitation of recov-

anthropogenic influences, such as local pollution

ered animals (e.g. those that got stranded on the

levels and their sources, ship traffic, local fisheries,

beach) or the preparation of those dolphins from

tourism pressure, etc. It is necessary to analyse the

oceanariums which are deemed fit for independ-

water temperature and salinity and living condi-

ent living in the sea, before releasing them into

tions at various depths.

the wild.

Each time you need to think about support or oppoSanctuaries for elephants, big cats, bears and pri-

sition from the local community. You will also need

mates have existed in different places in the world

an appropriate land area that will allow the con-

for many years. However, until now, there was no

struction of the necessary infrastructure, including

maritime sanctuary, because the marine environ-

office space, visitors' centre, laboratory space, place

ment has many elements that definitely complicate

for preparing and storing food, staff rooms.

the whole matter. These problems are perfectly

40

visible on the example of commercial provision-

The need to provide veterinary care is very impor-

al dolphinariums located in ill-conceived places,

tant. As with any other wildlife sanctuary, some

in fenced sea bays – especially in the Caribbean.

individuals may require minimal intervention,

Some of these facilities were built in heavily pollut-

while others may need intensive specialist care.

ed areas, with insufficient water circulation or en-

The sanctuary must be able to provide different

dangered by hurricanes. The number of accidents,

levels of veterinary care. Facilities for quarantine,

planet earth

routine or interventional ultrasound examination are necessary. A separate problem are activities for prevention of pregnancy, because the sanctuary cannot be a breeding place. Various contraceptive methods can be combined, such as chemical con-

(whales) They will be provided with protection and care as well as veterinary support and their

traceptives with periodic physical gender separa-

welfare and autonomy will be

tion. A sanctuary can also, for example, periodically

a priority. In such places, contacts

accept only one sex.

Another issue that affects the choice of location is

with caretakers will ultimately be limited to an absolute minimum.

security. It is necessary to develop security protocols that take into account the challenges posed by a given location. There will always be a risk, for

Seaside sanctuaries will ultimately be open to the

example, that intruders from outside will get into

public, although of course to a much lesser extent

the sanctuary and will harm, intentionally or unin-

and on different terms than marine parks. People

tentionally, animals living there. Hence the require-

will be able to visit them at specific times. Remem-

ment to monitor the facility 24 hours a day. The

ber, however, that sanctuaries will not be entertain-

sanctuary must also be designed so as to minimize

ment facilities, so the needs of animals will always

the risk of dolphin escapes and uncontrolled entry

be a priority here. Comprehensive information, ed-

into the surrounding environment.

ucation and nature conservation programmes will

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

41

At present, there are over 3,000 whales, dolphins

By their very nature, seaside sanctuaries will offer whales a much larger space, more challenges and more inspiring stimuli. People will of course continue to look after the animals, but they will be less and less needed.

and porpoises in numerous dolphinariums, marine parks and oceanariums around the world. To end their misery, we must find and prepare places in the natural marine environment to which they could be moved, in different parts of the world.

The centre in Iceland is the first and the most advanced, but not the only such venture. Considering the amount of orcas and dolphins kept in marine parks in the USA, the Whale Sanctuary Project seems to be particularly important. It is the first organisation exclusively focused on creating seaside sanctuaries in North America for whales,

42

be offered. Multimedia and the use of virtual reality

dolphins and porpoises that will be moved there

will provide an extraordinary experience of the life

from entertainment facilities or will be saved from

of orcas and whales in the ocean while taking full

the ocean and will require rehabilitation or per-

care of animal welfare.

manent care.

planet earth

Virtually all larger whales in captivity, especially from

thanks to donations and sale of materials and edu-

colder habitats (such as orcas and beluga sharks),

cational programmes. The Whale Sanctuary Project

are kept in concrete tanks, at least in the US. This

was launched with an initial grant of $ 200,000 from

has a very negative effect on the animals. In orcas,

Munchkin, Inc., a global company producing chil-

broken and worn teeth are very often found, being

dren's items. The company also committed to trans-

the aftermath of various stereotypies, as well as nu-

fer at least $ 1 million to complete the first facility.

merous injuries as a result of acts of inter-individual aggression, and a drooping dorsal fin (as a result of

Also in Europe there are plans to launch seaside

impaired locomotive needs) visible in all males. En-

sanctuaries for dolphins. The locations have been

larging swimming pools in marine parks is not an op-

considered, among others in Ibiza and Italy, but

tion – they would be too expensive and unprofitable.

the final place has not yet been revealed. The Ar-

After all, oceanic predators suffer when they find

chipelagos Institute of Marine Conservation on the

themselves in such small spaces. In addition to the

Greek island of Lipsi aspires to become the seaside

aforementioned physical and physiological ailments,

sanctuary in Europe. It is to be a refuge for dolphins

slavery also causes unnatural behaviour and dras-

washed ashore, requiring rehabilitation or trans-

tically reduces and impairs their social interactions.

ferred from commercial dolphinariums. It is also to be a rehabilitation centre for seals and turtles.

By their very nature, seaside sanctuaries will offer

However, some European experts dealing with the

whales a much larger space, more challenges and

welfare of dolphins have been quite sceptical about

more inspiring stimuli. People will of course contin-

this centre, believing that it does not meet all the

ue to look after the animals, but they will be less

necessary requirements for a seaside sanctuary.

and less needed. The natural environment, with all

And the Old Continent really needs such a place.

the elements characteristic of it, should be more in-

The dramatic case of dolphins from the closed Finn-

teresting for dolphins than interaction with caretak-

ish Särkänniemi Amusement Park in Tampere has

ers. In the marine environment, we humans are not

shown it. They were transferred to the next place

necessary for these mammals. Seaside sanctuaries

of captivity – the Attica Zoological Park in Greece –

can give whales the opportunity to regain some in-

which operates in violation of the law.

dependence or at least give them more control over their daily lives.

We cannot take back all the wrongs and damage that we have done to the whales keeping them in

As mentioned earlier, choosing a place for a ceta-

captivity, but by providing them with seaside sanc-

cean sanctuary is a huge challenge. Orcas and be-

tuaries, we can radically improve their quality of life.

luga sharks are cold-water animals, so searching

This is what the sanctuaries are for.

for the perfect location in the US has focused on the coasts of Washington, British Columbia and Nova Scotia. Of the literally thousands of possible locations that were considered in this region, the researchers narrowed the list to several places that meet all criteria. Currently, detailed on-site verifications are carried out there.

The very complex process of searching for the right place shows that such initiatives are very expensive.

The Whale Sanctuary Project estimates that the cost of running a sanctuary is $ 20 million. And then, of course, you need to finance the long-term care of animals, whose costs the organisers will try to cover

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

43

sponsored article

o u r co n v e r s at i o n

About business, diving and flashlights Wojciech Zgoła talks with Krzysztof Gawroński (blueabyss.pl)

Where did you start from and what was the fac-

a diving business…

tor inspiring you to go into the diving business?

Two words about learning – it may actually sound

To tell the truth, I only remember one question

a little strange when I say we are still learning,

from Ania and Mariusz… 'Are we signing up for

when you look from the outside at our company,

an instructor course?' I remember that the idea

you see it does cooperate with a few well-known

initially did not appeal to me because I had other

brands in the country. But it is true: if you don't

plans. Diving had been a passion we shared for

learn, do not invest and do not look ahead, you

many years. Probably for this reason we wanted to

make no progress or even move back. We do

show it to others. None of us had to than, nor has

not want to move back. When you ask about

to now, live from a diving business, which we are

entering the business, I guess you ask about

still learning, and probably because of this it was

money avoiding the word 'money'. We invest-

easier to say "yes". It's been over ten years since

ed as much as we considered appropriate and

the first dive and a little over five years since pass-

I can say that to this day we have not taken even

ing the instructor exams, and we're still learning.

a penny out of this business. We are investing all the time and maybe that is why we do not care

44

You know it is a rare thing to admit to be still

if we go faster or slower, it's important that we

learning, don't you? It has been assumed that

are moving forward because we are not focused

the instructor knows everything and nobody

on quick profit or return on the investment. We

talks about constant improvement or enhanc-

are more concerned about facilitating access to

ing qualifications. But that's a different topic.

quality products at an acceptable price. We are

Let's go back to the question why you entered

also focused on conveying our passion to others

through single dives – intro divings or trainings.

However, we don't do it en masse as we want to

We are more concerned about facilitating

provide an experience at the highest level. We

access to quality products at an acceptable

do not tray to strain ourselves or compete… We also do not try to compete with the number of certificates issued – it's not our aim.

price. We are also focused on conveying our passion to others through single dives – intro divings or trainings. However,

What did you start with?

What did we start with? Interesting question. We started with our private equipment, a number of

we don't do it en masse as we want to provide an experience at the highest level.

certificates owned, the experience of a few hundred dives per person and the purchase of new recreational equipment for ourselves and our

as for us. Information about us appeared all over

potential customers and the purchase of a car

the country. First inquiries were made about

to transport the equipment after passing the

courses, locations, etc. We started getting phone

instructor's examinations. Perhaps if we hadn't

calls asking us to clarify the rules of training

passed them then, today we would have more

before purchase, because we had established

time. It's all the fault of our CDs – they prepared

such rules. Initially it all worked out, but at the

us very well. I'm joking, of course. We are still

moment when it turned out that no one wants to

grateful to them for that.

take an OWD training in one of the cities (not for free of course) and we had to go to another city

As you mentioned, after over 5 years in the

and give a course there, the decision was made

market, you're still learning about diving busi-

to withdraw from this idea.

ness in Poland. How have these years of hard work passed?

So what now about these trainings?

Diving business for training purposes was a nov-

Every now and then new ideas appear, but in fact

elty for us. Trade, on the other hand, was not

we do not advertise training too much. Sometimes

a very complicated task. I had been in trade for

people call on somebody's recommendation and

years and I'm still in trade, so I can say that I cut

sometimes after finding out that we only train in

my teeth on the negotiation and sale of various

‘one-to-one’ mode without charging extra for it. It's

products more or less needed in our life. First, you

easier for us, because as I mentioned, none of us

have to sell the training and that's why I came up

lives off diving. In my opinion, it's good because we

with the idea to sell it not only locally but across

do not fall into the routine and we are not stressed

the whole country. As part of the contract and negotiations, I wanted to involve Decathlon in

Photo Irena Stangierska

cooperation not only with our company, but with any other diving company willing to cooperate.

Hardly anyone believed that we could succeed.

And how did it go?

We literally stormed through the first stage, I mean the introduction of diving courses into sale, although theoretically it was supposed to be the toughest part. Decathlon even agreed to make a financial investment in the cooperation, which was a complete novelty for them as well

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

45

sponsored article

We have created a package of test flashlight and we send it to tests every weekend. After the tests we always receive orders and positive

used to distribute different diving equipment

evaluations. We are very pleased that not

earlier. While training is carried out, some equip-

only the spare and main flashlights, a lot of which we have in our offer, are in the centre of interest, but also the photo flashlights.

ment should be sold – this is what we thought then and we what we still think. Only the order of things has changed. Since we sell diving equipment, we should be prepared for training. We asked ourselves whether it wouldn't be worth to become a reseller or a distributor, with market exclusivity in Poland. When we started our ad-

whether we will have enough money to make

venture with diving more than 10 years ago, Dive

a living. Today, some people put their money for

System was one of the most well-known brands

the retirement pension in the Social Insurance

in the market. Then it vanished. We found that

Institution (ZUS), OFEs, deposits, banks, and we in-

nobody promoted this brand and maybe there

vest it in the diving business. Business is booming,

was a place for us. We sent a message to the

something is developing and, contrary to the ap-

producer and after exchanging a few important

pearances, it is interesting and funny, and besides,

pieces of information, we were invited to talks.

we meet new interesting people all the time.

We received a few details and after a few days we landed in Rome and a few hours later – at the

It was different with trade, wasn't it?

negotiating table. On the second day we signed

Trade also worked out differently than we initially

a distribution agreement. After a few weeks we

thought. Finding good contact people is not so

brought our first delivery and so it started.

easy and there are certain requirements for distributors. Here are different rules than in tradi-

Not bad!

tional trade, which I am not allowed to talk about.

In the following year, the Ratio brand appeared

I can only say that some of the rules still surprise

with dive computers. About a year ago, we gained

me and I keep trying to change them. Five years

100% accounting liquidity with a large margin in

ago the start was very difficult and today it is not

the budget, and instead of withdrawing the cash

easy, but slowly, step by step, we made progress,

and flying to some cool dives, we invested in the

we are still on the move and we are going to

third brand, OrcaTorch – dive torches. This meant

move forward. If we had entered only diving busi-

that we had even less time. We are now looking

ness, we would be many steps ahead, but "haste

for other solutions for running this business and

makes waste". Unfortunately, we are lacking time

maybe there will be a new opening soon. All the

to implement all our ideas and sometimes we are

time new ideas are born, and only a few more

stuck in one place for too long. None of us will

hours a day are missing.

give up the source of income or will take unnecessary risk. Diving business is a rough and specific

Observing you at the fair, one could notice

way to make a living, but for those who can and

a lot of interest in OrcaTorch flashlights. Did

want to make a living from it, it is a very interest-

you sell all the torches you had brought? Was

ing way of life – in flip-flops, not under a tie.

this a surprise for you?

We always try to have more goods than we need,

46

These flip-flops, without the tie, fit well in the

so in fact, if we had sold all, we would have been

African heat that plagued central and north-

surprised. Flashlights were very well received and

ern Europe. What I would like to ask about,

we sold a lot, but not the sale was the reason we

however, is the latests news, as some time

presented them. We wanted to see the divers'

ago you extended your offer…

reaction to the new product. The reaction wasn't

What you probably mean is the flashlights. We

a surprise to us, because this was just what we

our conversation

had expected. It was a confirmation of our earlier

How do you perceive yourself against the

assumptions. We were and we still are very happy

competition, e.g. goods from China? What

because of this, and the sale was very satisfactory

distinguishes you?

as for the start. It exceeded our expectations.

Our flashlights are manufactured in China. However, they are not OEM but branded products.

The equipment you trade in is recognized and

This distinguishes us from the torches known

appreciated. Do you already have feedback

colloquially as "Chinese". Production in China has

from customers who use flashlights under wa-

been changing for years. There are companies

ter on everyday basis? Is OrcaTorch compara-

that produce everything for everyone and there

ble in price and quality with the competition?

are others that want to produce their brand and

We think we hit home ideally with the brand, the

basing on companies like ours, they create a dis-

product and the price-to-quality ratio. There are

tribution network and are really committed to

people who write to us, call us or during meetings

quality. We give two or three years more for the

say that our flashlights for, e.g. 500 PLN have

sale of flashlights to be off at full steam.

such light, or even better, like those priced twice

We have created a package of test flashlight and

as much. For us customer satisfaction is most

we send it to tests every weekend. After the tests

important, and if we add to that, that we do not

we always receive orders and positive evalua-

look into each and every pocket of our customers

tions. We are very pleased that not only the spare

selling them our product, the satisfaction is even

and main flashlights, a lot of which we have in

greater. The prices are set so that the purchase

our offer, are in the centre of interest, but also

from our distribution network in the country is

the photo flashlights. This is very optimistic for

always cheaper than from stores outside our

our future customers and for us. We are already

country. In addition, it should be remembered

thinking about creating another test package,

that, if necessary, it is easier to use the guarantee

maybe even several packages, because the

on goods in the country.

interest is increasing from week to week, and our Photo Irena Stangierska

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

47

sponsored article

Photo Irena Stangierska

lators or batteries. Quite recently they took away

The latest hit are flashlights with a laser –

my standard batteries from my cabin baggage,

green and red. (...) You can turn the fish

and at another time I was told to put the battery

with the help of a laser the way you wish.

in the checked baggage. It all depends on the airline, the country and the person who is scanning the baggage. It's like freestyle wrestling.

booking calendar is almost full.

At the end of our interesting conversation,

The latest hit are flashlights with a laser – green

I suggest that everyone who calls you after

and red. For several months I haven't been able

publishing this issue of "Perfect Diver" will

to imagine diving in warm waters without a laser.

receive a 3% discount on your flashlights! How

Playing with fish, bringing them to a distance at

about that?

your fingertips to get a better look, or the possibility

I would like to agree to such a proposal, but that

of pointing out something interesting underwater,

would require the implementation of a new price

this is it. In my opinion, it is also a product for those

list for the entire distribution network. We do not

who are engaged in photography. You can turn the

carry out retail sales (except for trade fairs), and

fish with the help of a laser the way you wish.

when retail orders appear, we try to determine which of our distributors is closest and forward

I haven’t dived with a laser flashlight yet. As

there the orders to be made. This rule applies

you praise it, I shall try it. And how do they

not only to flashlights, but to all diving equipment

perform during the trip? Can you carry them

we have in distribution. We can make such an

on the plane? The approach of airlines to div-

agreement for the next dive fair in which we will

ing photo, video or lighting equipment always

participate, and not for 3% but for 5% to make it

provides excitement. How is OrcaTorch doing?

easier to count.

You ask a question to which there is no good

48

answer. When airlines harmonize the rules then

That's great. Thank you on behalf of your future

I will be able to say how you can handle accumu-

clients and thank you for our conversation.

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k n ow l e dg e

Quality of diving trainings Text irena kosowska

Photos Radosław Zajkowski

My job involves, among other things, quite intensive tours around Poland, meeting with divers and instructors during read-

I

would like to raise an unusual and probably

controversial topic, namely the quality of diving

training. I found the inspiration quite by chance,

outs, workshops or lectures, as well as par-

participating as an observer in two different OWD

ticipating – actively or as an observer – in

courses, with two different instructors (the feder-

many different diving courses, as a ‘side ef-

ation is less important, because the standards of

fect’ of spending time with divers.

all federations have quite coherent assumptions at the initial stage of training).

To my surprise and concern, as a representative of DAN, I was asked questions by the

At some point I realized how important is the

divers, which forced me to reflect on the

choice of the instructor – his or her knowledge of

level of knowledge and training in Poland.

the subject, experience and the ability to communicate both.

While questions about the speed of ascent, suspicious symptoms and used gases I could

What do we actually expect when starting a diving

understand, the question I got from the

adventure?

diver at the AOWD level: ‘What is this decom-

50

pression sickness all about?’ prompted me to

There are as many answers as there are partici-

write this article.

pants of the courses, which was demonstrated in

Far less frequently we expect knowledge or studying physical many surveys on various forums and social me-

and mathematical issues

dia. We expect, first of all, to learn something new:

related to diving, and it is this

a new, underwater world; get new experiences, adventure; to feel adrenaline; to experience something with friends or meet new people. Far less frequently we expect knowledge or studying physical

side of our new passion that should be most important to us from the beginning.

and mathematical issues related to diving, and it is this side of our new passion that should be most important to us from the beginning. Why? In order to learn independent thinking, making decisions

get experience on their own. Just like with a driving

and face up their consequences from the very be-

license – we learn something, but we will learn to

ginning. And the basis for this is knowledge.

park only when we scratch our own car for the first time. However, is it really what we want?

But let's go back to the aforementioned courses.

One course lasted three days, the participant of the

The other instructor presented an extremely dif-

course had studied the manual individually and the

ferent approach. First of all, the participants first

instructor checked the quiz online, on this basis as-

had lectures, and only later did they get materials

sessing the participant's knowledge. He took the

systematizing their knowledge. And the lectures…

participant to water (one day in the swimming pool

OWD participant started with physics, applicable

and two other days – included 4 dives – in open wa-

laws, EAD calculations, changes in gas pressure in

ter) and issued a certificate entitling the participant

the bottle depending on the temperature… I sat on

to diving at 18 meters. Judging whether it was good

the side and the material was fed in such an avail-

or bad is not my task. The fact is that the participant,

able way that I started to take notes with exam-

and from that moment a full-fledged diver with the

ples to use them in my courses. What's more, the

right to dive in open water, went into the world. The

participants did not seem surprised or puzzled by

person can handle the BCD, heard about the neu-

such knowledge – they decided that if the instruc-

tral buoyancy, can clean the diving regulator and

tor teaches them about it, it means that they have

can cope with the mask. Once I heard that it is quite

to learn it. The following lectures were, of course,

enough to ‘issue a certificate’. Theoretically, such

about the equipment (along with a full demon-

a person should not get killed while diving and will

stration, putting on the equipment to get to know

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

51

Taking into account a larger sample, it can be con-

By signing a certificate with our name, we become responsible for the knowledge and attitude we have given to the new diver.

cluded that the lowest quality courses are so-called ‘resort courses’, lasting 2–3 days, focused mainly on earning money on tourists. It is these courses that are potentially the most dangerous for the participants themselves – they receive certification often not learning the skills, and most of them complete-

"what it is like" etc.) and discussing the exercises

ly lack adequate knowledge to proceed with any

that would be performed. All the exercises on this

further actions.

course were carried out in neutral buoyancy, in a drysuit, from the very first entry into the water

Of course, there might be exceptions, but they only

ruled trim and breast stroke. Earlier, it seemed to

confirm this rule.

me that it was impossible to do the course it this way, but it turned out that it is possible, has been

Instructors training individually, unfortunately

possible for years, and quite successfully. This in-

mainly those for whom diving is not a source of

structor uses the ‘old school’ of training, in which

maintenance, do it to convey their passion and re-

to get just P1 in CMAS you had to undergo a real

ally want to make diving safer. I would like to em-

commando training lasting several months. This

phasize once again that the federation does not

system really works, providing a huge amount of

matter in this regularity. We do not choose a fed-

knowledge and practical skills during a minimum of

eration, but an instructor.

10 hours of dives performed on the course.

Diving has become a widely available sport, one

52

I wondered why theoretically the same courses can

of the forms of spending free time, and it is possi-

be so different depending just on the instructor?

ble to start it from day to day by anyone who has

Believe me that the federation doesn't matter here.

such a fantasy. Is that good? I think it is. But let us

advertisement

remember that the skills and knowledge with which we release our students ‘into the world’ are a kind of a dowry they can multiply if the seeds sown by us are valuable. By signing a certificate with our name, we become responsible for the knowledge and attitude we have given to the new diver. It is sometimes worth considering whether we would like to be taught in the way we teach and whether our trainees, ‘advertising’ our name on their certificate, will bring us pride or shame.

May we be proud of our instructors, and may they be proud of us

Examination of conscience

Do I know what it is:

•

Decompression sickness (DCI vs DCS)

•

Oxygen toxicity (types)

•

Carbon dioxide

•

Nitrogen narcosis

•

Barotrauma

•

Gradient Factor

•

M-Value

•

SAC

•

EAD

•

END

XI Targi Nurkowe

Podwodna Przygoda Warszawa

12–15.03.2020

ujcie Rezerw termin!

Do I know and can use:

•

Henry's Law

•

Dalton's Law

•

Archimedes' principle

•

Boyle-Mariotte Law

•

Gay-Lussac's Law

•

Charles's law

www.podwodnaprzygoda.pl www.facebook.com/TargiNurkoWe/ Fot. Wojciech Zgoła

k n ow l e dg e

panic Experiencing anxiety, even for a short period, is never pleasant. It's even worse when the fear turns into panic, and the worst when it happens underwater. The reason why healthy people suffer from sudden panic attacks underwater has been unknown so far.

I

t is important, however, to try to understand the

Divers were asked to assess which of these threats

panic mechanisms. In fact, panic, though harm-

were present during panic attacks. Of all 43 pos-

less by nature, can be the most common cause of

sible answers, the most often selected option in

accidents among divers.

each of three categories was the last one: "Other".

In short, events that cause panic reactions do not

The experts on panic during diving, Arthur Bachrach

belong to the objective causes of a justified situa-

and Glen Egstrom, the authors of the essay 'Stress

tional anxiety. In most cases, the triggering cause

and Performance in Diving', state that ‘panic is the

was something trivial or routine, something that

prevailing cause of most injuries and fatalities in

no one would consider a reason for panic at any

diving.’ Any experienced divemaster or instructor

other time.

can agree with that statement. Panic, however, is not always a lurking enemy, ready to attack anyone

When analyzing DAN reports on accidents and fa-

regardless of age, experience or gender – panic can

talities in diving, the hypothesis occurs that huge

be prevented.

number of dives could have been successfully completed if the diver had followed the rules of

54

To determine the cause of panic, studies have been

basic training – very simple rules: do not hold your

conducted on more than 12,000 divers who experi-

breath, do not surface too quickly. We think that we

enced panic during the dive. The results were sur-

will never make such a mistake. However, anyone

prising. Respondents received a list of 43 possible

can fall into panic, a panic attack is independent of

causes of panic, such as ‘sharks’, ‘darkness’, ‘lack of

our will. Panic is not the same as cowardice or lack

air’ and so on. The options were divided into three

of courage, but an involuntary reaction to the mas-

categories regarding diving conditions, hardware

sive release of adrenaline into the bloodstream. In

problems, physical and/or psychological problems.

the face of danger it causes an increase in heart

rate, body temperature and blood sugar. Nausea

panic attack. And hyperventilation (rapid, shallow,

appears, you begin to sweat, your skin becomes

irregular breath) is a classic sign of anxiety.

red or pale, your breath becomes faster, shallow, you experience shortness of breath. Your field of

Anxiety is an accumulation of everyday stress that

vision may narrow.

reaches the point of unconscious fear of not being able to solve a problem; this results in a feeling of

The worst part is that you feel more and more up-

helplessness that strengthens uncertainty, worry,

set and you are not able to think clearly. It seems

fatigue, frustration and fear that are part of every-

that the solution to a given situation doesn't exist.

day life. Therefore, it is probable that the diver al-

During a panic attack, the rational part of the brain

ready experiences stress, perhaps unaware, before

can do very little to stop this process, because the

entering the water.

body needs a few minutes to absorb adrenaline and the risk of taking wrong action increases.

When divers go underwater worried or angry, they are less able to react in a coherent and logical man-

The good news is that panic can almost always

ner. When something unexpected happens, even if

be prevented. This is indicated by a phenomena

it is harmless (like an accidentally dropped mask),

mentioned in the above study, at first glance unim-

the person starts to hyperventilate and it seems

portant, occurring just before the attack. Although

there is not enough air. The feeling of ‘air hunger’

the results provided by the divers on the probable

and the risk of suffocation increase. Panic is get-

causes of panic attacks seemed unrelated and so

ting close.

scattered that it was impossible to draw a logical statistical conclusion, everyone agreed that they

Of course, do not assume that all divers who have

began to hyperventilate just before the start of the

had a weaker day will have a panic attack: people

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

55

There are at least three good reasons why frequent breaks reduce stress and prevent panic. First of all, regular breaks reduce fatigue; rest facilitates lowering the level of adrenaline, slowing down the heartbeat, slower and deeper breathing, and the level of carbon dioxide in the blood goes back to normal.

Secondly, breaks give us a chance for a moment of mental relaxation and slow down the events that we are forced to keep up with. Finally, frequent breaks are an opportunity to reflect on the next task and the way of performing it. Try to imagine problems that may arise and their solutions: sport are different, they deal with stress and everyday

psychology has proven that visualization is a pow-

worries in various ways. Some people are more

erful weapon against anxiety, stress and panic.

prone to stress than others, so they are more susceptible to panic attacks. However, no one, as it

Breaks can also give us opportunity to control our

was mentioned, is resistant to panic, because our

breathing. Breathing using the chest wall instead

individual panic threshold can also change from

of the diaphragm is an intense energy-consuming

day to day.

activity because we use the wrong muscles. Breathing with the diaphragm is a natural way to breathe,

A panic attack rarely happens suddenly while div-

it evokes a state of relaxation and is essential to

ing – in most cases stress acts on the diver for

keep your breath under control: hyperventilation

hours and sometimes even days. Panic attacks can

is actually a well-known cause of anxiety and panic.

be triggered by excess work, when the diver feels overwhelmed. It can be prevented by focusing on

In summary, when you do not feel well, it's bet-

specific tasks and refusing to deal with unneces-

ter not to dive. When you feel nauseous and you

sary activities or activities beyond the limit of our

just do not want to dive for some reason you can

psychological comfort.

not identify, it's better not to. Do not let the pressure of your companions push you beyond your

One of the best ways to reduce and avoid stress is

comfort limits, because you would start diving al-

to set up a series of breaks on the day of the dive:

ready stressed and more susceptible to panic. If

take rest, focus on the situation and think about

someone does not understand this and insists on

what you intend to do next. If you are stressed,

diving, do not be embarrassed. The problem of

when you reach the meeting place, after parking

pressure equalization is always a great emergency

and best before handling the equipment, take

exit (a good excuse)!

a break for a minute or two and relax. When the equipment is on board, take a break before getting

56

dressed. When you are in water, but before diving,

Source:

have a break. And so on during the time of diving.

www.daneurope.org, www.alertdiver.eu

Enjoy diving with peace of mind, worldwide, all year round

DIVING SAFETY SINCE1983 PHOTO BY MARCELLO DI FRANCESCO

Worldwide 24/7 Emergency Assistance

Exclusive access to Diving Insurance Plans

Medical Advice & Specialist Referrals

Participation in Diving Medical Research Programs

First Aid Courses

DANEUROPE.ORG

k n ow l e dg e

A diving accident meaning everything is fine until…

Text maciej jurasz

Photos Archiwum CN Płetwal Poznań

The editor-in-chief of the Perfect Diver magazine asked me to write an article about diving accidents in the context of the recent media issue that is finding the body of a missing diver from Poznan in the Baltic Sea. I asked "Wojtek, how many characters should have this article?" And he answered "It does not matter, Maciej, there is no limit here, you just have to write something".

It sounded serious, responsible, and so it is, accidents and everything associated with them – it is no laughing matter.

58

A

s for diving accidents, it is usually the case that everything is fine until something bad happens,

and then there is unfortunately no guilty party. Nobody wants to be associated with it or involved in it. We are naturally afraid of being blamed or held

Accidents have occurred, occur and will occur, and the controversy around them will

responsible for a given accident. We say that we did

focus on whether someone

not do anything wrong or that we did not mean it. If

could have coped with a given

I walk along the sidewalk and suddenly fall over, it is an accident, however, if I had known that I would fall, I would have lain down on this sidewalk. An

situation, although he or she did not, or whether a person

accident is an event that we did not anticipate and

should have dived at a given

which occurred. What is different is whether we are

place and time at all.

prepared for a given event – having appropriate training, skills, experience, equipment, sometimes support on the surface. Accidents have occurred,

tragic events. On the one hand, there are certain

occur and will occur, and the controversy around

facts and investigation material, and on the other

them will focus on whether someone could have

hand, there is hate on the Internet. Hate against the

coped with a given situation, although he or she

diver who had an accident or against the instruc-

did not, or whether a person should have dived at

tor who was training. Somehow everyone knows

a given place and time at all.

everything, everyone has a theory, people write posts online saying "it was clear that this would

As an expert analysing diving accidents I have ac-

happen", "it was only a matter of time", "he or she

cess to all the materials as well as the Internet, and

was asking for it"… etc. etc. The smaller the powers

I can see how big is the failure to understand such

of the people who post online, the stronger their

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

59

conviction of being right, it is rather obvious. We

(…) it is very annoying that you can see that someone is blurring the facts instead of

all know that, but we still get involved in stormy Internet debates, and every crazy statement gets a forest of "likes". This is the Internet era, we will not change it, and as a diving community we have

telling the truth, especially

to accept it. But let us try to keep some moderation

that in diving events, the

and reason in these discussions.

truth most often does not bring any consequences.

Comments are one reality, the more virtual one.

What is more real is the drama of the victim's family and the drama of all the people directly and indirectly associated with an accident. In fiery Internet discussions, we often forget about those who have lost their loved ones, who are alive and have feelings. Facts and evidence gathered in an investigation compared to theories can be surprising.

Speculation and judgements on the Internet often have nothing to do with testimony and facts. For the sake of an investigation, no one who is not participating in proceedings should comment and provide detailed information on this matter. This type of investigative job requires peace and time.

Diving accidents where there are sincere intentions and full transparency may be quite easy to explain.

We as a diving community could learn from them.

For that to happen, however, it is necessary, one, how obvious and banal thing – TRUTH. In diving, we do not have rigid legal regulations that would regulate everything, we have social norms, written and taught standards of safe diving and good diving practices resulting from the practical experience of divers and instructors. In diving accidents someone breaks our diving social norms and he or she knows it. That is why during testimony divers subvert what actually happened, in order to hide their negligence or discount certain facts. A diving accident in my private assessment takes place underwater, but in 90% it has its beginning before immersion – at the stage of planning and adopting bad assumptions in this regard. And as I wrote at the beginning, "everything is fine, as long as it is good…" Sometimes something goes well, sometimes it does not.

It is natural that if someone attacks us, he accuses us of something, we defend ourselves, and de-

60

podróże

fending ourselves, we idealise the situation, putting

is blurring the facts instead of telling the truth, es-

ourselves in a better light. But it is worse when the

pecially that in diving events, the truth most often

witness or participant of an accident during the

does not bring any consequences.

"idealisation" begins to bend the truth, it is simply lying. In the heat of defending their own name,

At one of the hearings in which I participated as

some people can get very far and this is a problem.

an expert witness, a diver lied in fear of the conse-

In the emotion of a given moment, one cannot see

quences of not possessing the appropriate qual-

objectively the whole picture, one can think that

ifications to dive deep, to the depth at which the

if he or she tells the truth, someone will hold him

accident occurred. I asked him: "If someone goes

or her responsible. They do not understand that

to the mountains, without training, in sneakers,

in order to bear the consequences of an accident,

and sprains his leg, will he be legally responsible

"deliberate behaviour" needs to take place, namely

or will he be punished? No, he will not." In diving

such actions that would indicate that someone did

accidents, it is often about the peace of your con-

something deliberately, with premeditation. Anoth-

science, the peace of the victim's family – it is about

er condition is negligence, which means the lack of

THE TRUTH, only and so much.

due diligence. Each accident is different and is con-

Poznań, July 2019

sidered individually. Diving computers, witnesses of the event, participants, conversations and plans before diving, all these are quite strong aspects

Maciej Jurasz

that indicate the direction of the truth. And what

Expert witness at the Poznań District Court

really matters to us – a community of divers – is to

PADI Platinum Course Director

determine the true course of events in the context

Diving Center Płetwal Poznań

of a diving accident. I have the impression that we are not angry that something has happened, be-

maciej.jurasz@pletwal.eu

cause this is the case, accidents happen. However,

+48 501 472 997

it is very annoying that you can see that someone

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

61

a r c h a e o l og y

A sunken church "mister!" there is a sunken church in this lake!!!

Attention! The article contains a top-secret map of sunken tanks and sunken churches.

You are reading it at your own risk!!

Text and photo Mateusz Popek

Most divers have something of a seeker-

winter. There are so many stories that they could fill many evenings. I decided to tell four such stories.

discoverer about them and most of us know some place where a sunken tank or church is

The first of them happened quite recently during

allegedly located. The work of an underwater

the basic diving course for students of archaeology

archaeologist means that I have heard hundreds of such stories... hundreds indeed

in one of the lakes in the region of Wielkopolska.

I was standing in the water waiting for another pair of students when two men came up to me with the basic question that occurs to you when

A

you see a diver: "How long does this scuba cylinder

fter these very reliable stories, I could come to the conclusion that

last?" The waiting was getting longer, as was the

there is really a sunken tank, a sunken church, a wedding party,

conversation. When we came to the subject of my

the Swedish army and a few others in every lake.

profession, both gentlemen felt a strong need to tell me a story. It begins, of course, a long time ago

62

For years of work as an underwater archaeologist, I dived in dozens of

but it is not quite certain when. There was a young

different lakes throughout Poland and almost always local residents

couple with guests making their way to the church.

came with stories about some sunken object in their reservoir. These

Unfortunately and to their doom, the church was on

stories often have a common denominator – they are about a sunken

the other side of the lake, and it was winter. There-

tank or church. These stories also arouse the greatest emotions among

fore, all the wedding guests decided to ride a sleigh

listeners, because who would not want to find a tank in the water?

across the lake in order to get to the church. As

Very often, there are also reports of monuments thrown into water

every reader now guesses, the ice collapsed and the

or a wedding party or the Swedish army, under which ice collapsed in

party ended on the bottom. The gentlemen showed

me the place where this tragedy took place with a strong suggestion that I should dive there and find those unfortunates as soon as possible. When I did not show enthusiasm to dive there, the disappointment on their faces was huge. At that moment, students appeared and I could dive. I have never again met the gentlemen who told me that story.

Let us now go to the other side of Poland to one of the Masurian lakes. I was at friends' place at the lake for a weekend and as soon as some new companions found out what I was doing, they decided to tell me a very interesting story. In a nearby village, in the middle of the square, there stood a Prussian monument. When the Soviet army "liberated" this Graphic Paweł Stencel

area, it came across this monument. One of the officers gave his soldiers an order to destroy the monument and throw it into a pond adjacent to

The last story happened on one of the Pomeranian lakes. One sum-

the market square. When we stood at the pond,

mer day we got a call that an Slavic statue from the Early Middle Ages

or rather a mini pond the size of a few ares and

was fished from the lake. The whole team gathered very quickly and

the depth not exceeding several dozen centimetres,

reached the lake, where we met the finder, who was showing to

I did not know how to explain to them that most

some specialists a wooden blackened statue with a sculptured face.

probably there is no monument there… Imagine the

Everything looked very serious and credible so our team boss sent

situation: A group of soldiers take off a monument

us to check the place where the object was found. We did not expect

weighing several hundred kilos. Then they put it on

to find anything, because how many Slavic statues can fall into the

a small fishing boat (because a bigger one would

water? When I thought about it, a piece of black wood at the bottom

not fit in this pond). They float to the centre and

caught my eye. I swam to the object and saw… a face. A second statue

throw it into the water…

was lying in front of me! When I emerged and told the boss about my discovery, his face looked puzzled and disturbed. After a moment,

Now, let us move from Masuria to nearby Warmia.

he said he must call. From the conversation it was clear that he was

A few years ago, my team and I were carrying out

talking to his high school friend, with whom he used to go to the lake

underwater prospection there. When launching our

for high school camps!

RIB boat, a little boy who was interested in what we

– Hi. Do you remember the time in high school when we went to camps

were doing ran up to us. After a while, he shared

at lake? And do you remember what happened on the other side of

with us the information that there was a tank under-

the lake?

water. When he did not receive adequate attention,

– Yes, I do. The scouts had camps there and they carved some totems.

he came with his mother who with a serious face

The mystery of Slavic idols has been solved…

confirmed the existence of a sunken tank several dozen meters from the shore. One of our team

In the work of an underwater archaeologist there are many such sto-

members, skilled in listening to such stories, asked

ries. You can tell them endlessly. These adventures have made us very

if there was a case of a sunken church in the lake as

anesthetised to such reports and we take them with a pinch of salt. But

well. The lady indignantly stated that no. The next

I always have in the back of my mind that some of these stories could

day, in the same place, we were re-launching our

be true. I wonder how many sunken tanks and churches I ignored?

motor boat and again the same lady and her sons visited us again, welcoming us with the following

Ranking of the most common sunken treasures:

words: "Gentlemen, do you know that a church is

1. Tank 2. Church 3. Monument 4. Wedding 5. Swedish army 6. The

sunken in this lake… songs are sung about it…".

Napoleonic army 7. Plane

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

63

t r av e l s

Antarctica 2019 in the footsteps of shackleton

Text and photos bartosz pszczółkowski

The idea of diving in Antarctica has been in my head for a very long time. Looking for a way to get to the last bastion of wild nature, I was thinking about the mode of transport. My friend took me to a lecture by Aleksander Doba who talked about how he crossed the Atlantic by canoe!!! A seventy-four-year old man on his own, in a kayak, across the Atlantic? It made a big impression on me.

64

Sea leopard from Couverville perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

65

Selma in the vicinity of Couverville penguin colony site

A

fter the lecture one of my friends told me that

At sunset, we reach the Melchior Islands, our first

we should sail to Antarctica, just like Shack-

stop on the Antarctic Peninsula. We are welcomed

leton. Being influenced by the speaker's story,

by penguins and a seal lying on an ice floe and not

I agreed without hesitation, not quite realising what

paying much attention to us. The days here are

I was signing up for. The operator of our expedition

very long and last about 20 hours, and external

was Aquadiver from Olsztyn. Three flights, 22 hours

stimuli and beautiful raw landscapes cause you not

in total (Warsaw – Rome – Buenos Aires – Ushuaia).

to feel tired.

We meet in the marina with the rest of the crew and

The first dive, beautiful sun, blue sky and ice water,

the captain of Selma Expeditions, the boat that will

which has here from 2 to -2°C. The visibility during

be our home for the next 4 weeks. We cross the Bea-

the first meters is good, from 7 to 15 meters very

gle Channel in 24 hours and we sail into the rough

poor, and from 15 meters it begins to improve, at

waters of the Drake Strait. Phew, what a ride this is:)

20 being already very good. The local reef is full of sea anemones, amazing sea cucumbers, large

After five days of sailing, we see the first icebergs.

nudibranchs, sea spiders and countless "vermin"

Tails of whales start to appear, and majestic alba-

and isopods of all sorts.

trosses accompany us throughout the entire cruise.

66

However, it is only after the experience of the Drake

Nights are so short and bright that the days begin

Strait that a man can better understand the chal-

to merge together. There is no mobile coverage

lenges and hardships faced by Ernest Shackleton

or access to the internet. It is a unique feeling, not

during his trip on the Endurance sailing ship, as

being disturbed by the noise of civilization, com-

well as by other brave souls following his example.

muning with nature.

Penguin colony site, Couverville,

However, even here, at the end of the world, we

take only the minimum to photograph gentoo pen-

see human interference from years ago. We are ap-

guins from the surface. Here, the sun is shining for

proaching Enterprise Island, where the wreck of the

most of the day. In the area, on ice floes, sea leop-

giant whaling ship Governoren lies. It turns out that

ards lie and from time to time you can hear the

we dive at this wreck on the hundredth anniversary

breaths of emerging humpback whales. All animals

of its sinking. The bow of the ship sticks out of the

are engaged in krill fishing (a type of shrimp that is

water, and the stern lies at a depth of 21 meters.

found in large numbers in Antarctica in summer).

gentoo penguins

The wooden deck of the ship is perfectly preserved.

The scattered whale bones underwater are impres-

After two weeks of the expedition, we get to the

sive and saddening at the same time, recalling the

Vernadsky Research Base. Here we make four

whaling era. Water has a temperature around 0°C,

interesting dives on the surrounding walls and

poor visibility in the first meters, improving from

meet scientists who have been diving in this

the depth of 15 meters, eventually reaching 10 to

area for a long time. We collect information on

12 meters. We meet nudibranchs, big sea anemo-

the fauna from the base area and ask for tips

nes and sea cucumbers, which we started to call

on diving with sea leopards. We get an invitation

"Antarctic baobabs".

from the Ukrainian base for a pool game in their canteen. This visit allowed us to meet interesting

Our next goal is the penguin colony site on Cou-

people, taste local delicacies:) and do the shop-

verville Island. We arrive there early in the morning

ping in the Vernadsky shop – the southernmost

and prepare for going ashore. Penguins are afraid

souvenir store. As a curiosity, I can say that the

of sea leopards floating below the surface, so we

distance from the Vernadsky Research Base to

decide to leave heavy equipment on the boat and

Warsaw in a straight line is 16210 kilometres. This

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

67

Interesting jellyfish, showing its beautiful bioluminescence, Couverville

Diver-photographer by the iceberg, the result of mixing sweet and salt water is seen, Charcot Nord

68

travels

Sea cucumbers, which we started to call "Antarctic baobabs", very active and hungry in these waters

pleasant visit forced us to make a one-day break from diving.

Saying goodbye to the Ukrainians, we sailed towards Charcot Island to make a dive at the first iceberg we encountered. We were surprised by poor visibility in the first meters. We discovered the reason! It turned out that the sweet water from the melting berg mixed with the salt water of the Southern Ocean causing a blurred image.

After reaching 15 meters, the visibility improved significantly, and the temperature was about 0°C. Focused on photographing ice forms on a mountain wall, we noticed the shadow of a large animal. A sea leopard? We had been warned earlier that leopards can be dangerous, that when they open their mouths it means that they demonstrate dominance. We were terrified, but at the same time curious to such an extent that we barely managed to take a picture. On the surface it turned out that it was a seal, curious to see bubbles that we let out of the breathing machines. It was an experience with a thrill:) I would have forgotten to mention the impressions that diving in the vicinity of icebergs provided us with, especially on that day. Such a melting iceberg is in motion all the time. You need to be very careful if you want to swim under it. It is often tempting, because it is where seals play and appear like ghosts out of nowhere just to disappear again after a few moments. The berg moves vertically, and from time to time, when it hits the bottom, ears actually hurt, so it is better not to swim under such a huge block of ice.

Notothenia, one of a few representatives of fish in these cold waters

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69

Nudibranch in the vicinity of Ukrainian Vernadsky Research Base

Ice fish, a fish that has white blood and thus can survive in water at -2°C, found near the Enterprice Island

70

Penguins from Couverville

Perfectly preserved wooden deck, despite 100 years in the water

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71

Once the most advanced factory ship, it now serves as a berth

A seal from Charcot Nord

When diving in Antarctica, remember that there are no diving centres, no infrastructure, guides or diving spots. You dive where you want, but safety is always priority. You can only depend on yourself and your equipment, and any leak in a dry suit or a bubbling regulator causes you to finish diving very quickly. Diving time is about 50 minutes, mainly due to the water temperature close to zero, and sometimes even below zero.

Interactions with animals are amazing, but remember that we are guests in their world and they should not be disturbed. The most favourite item of equipment for dives in Antarctica are, of course, chemical warmers for gloves and shoes.

Antarctica is an amazing place, austere and majestic, quiet and peaceful. The idyll is sometimes disturbed by a rumble of tonnes of ice and snow coming off the whole ice cap. And when the ice falls into water, it shatters into fragments the size of a passenger car.

72

c av e s

Opalescence opals…

Text and photos Bartosz Pitala

For the first time I heard about the opal mine in Dubnik around 2012. Being just a "deep" diver, fascinated with ‘overhead’ dives, I thought that I could only dream about diving in this place…

74

Dubnik Prešov Košice

A

nd there really was something to dream

Bratislava

about – crystal clear water, walls in an unusu-

al orange tint, numerous wooden remains of mine infrastructure, and even overgrown with sediments

down the dozen of slippery stairs, carved in muddy

tracks, which a long, long time ago were used to

rock. Filling cylinders is not possible neither in the

transport the mine production. All these staggered

mine nor in the vicinity, so we need to bring an ad-

the imagination and I couldn’t forget it.

equate supply of gas with us and lug it down. The way back, unfortunately, is no different. During

It is then hardly surprising that when five years lat-

this "walk" we will probably pass several walking

er – in 2017 – I managed to obtain Full Cave certifi-

groups, for whom we are an additional attraction

cation, Dubnik was one of the first places to see on

on the tourist route.

my long list. Getting there, however, was not easy – from November to March the mine is closed due

After dealing with the equipment, which we put on

to wintering bats, and the annual limit of divers is

next to the flooded part, we finally immerse in the

only 40 people. So I was really lucky that in a group

longed for, "pleasantly cool", highly mineralized

organized by the late Michał Czermiński a spot had

(nipping at the face and tongue) water, with the

just opened up. As you can guess, I didn't have to

temperature not exceeding 4°C, and we quickly for-

think long…

get about the strain and discomfort. The walls are indeed bright orange, and illuminated by a strong

Diving

beam of flashlight they reflect in an interesting way.

While diving in Dubnik does not differ in difficul-

They say, you can still find opals in the walls and

ty from other places of this type, the mine forces

ruckles, I couldn't see them because of watching

us to make a great effort before showing its un-

the world through the camera. Most of the corri-

derwater secrets and views. We go underground

dors are spacious, you can easily stay several dozen

with the inconspicuous stone entrance of the Jozef

centimeters above the floor, which in the case of

shaft. Before immersion in icy water, we have to

well trained divers makes it possible to not disturb

transport our equipment for a few hundred me-

debris at all. However, if the debris is disturbed vis-

ters inside the mine, and it culminates in getting

ibility may quickly drop to the literal "zero", so keep

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

75

this in mind. Fortunately, the mine has cave lines,

have also been preserved in good condition and

easy to sense even with numb fingers. Corridors

are a very interesting and photogenic addition.

are often lined with stone walls to prevent landslides. In some parts the original support beams

In Dubnik I found one more thing unique for

are still preserved.

a mine – rich flowstone fill. In some places there are several dozen centimeters long "spaghetti" and

In addition to the corridors, where we spend the

even "curtains" reminding me Mexican caves. These

most of each dive, we also come across larger spac-

structures however are very fragile and every effort

es, with many elements of mine equipment. The

should be made to not even bubble around them,

ones most interesting are probably vertical shafts

as they immediately break off and fall to the floor.

connecting mine levels. These shafts are still with wooden constructions and ladders and look as if

Of about 20 kilometers of corridors there are about

the work here ended just a few days ago.

five flooded, so there is a lot to see. The flooded corridors are on five levels. Diving "touristically"

The impression of "feeling history" is enhanced by

we have the opportunity to visit the first three – to

the fact that the mine was shut down over a hun-

the depth of about 36 meters. Corridors intersect

dred years ago (!), after more than three centuries

in many places, creating a kind of "Swiss cheese".

of mining history. On one of the levels we have the

76

opportunity to dive along the tracks often seen in

Individual levels are interconnected by impres-

photographs, covered with white coating. They

sive, carved in rock stairs. It is possible, for exam-

caves

ple, to descent in corridors to 30 meters, make

bility of taking good shots, and is open to various

a traverse, see the shaft with its complete wooden

suggestions. You can also communicate with him in

equipment, then ascent about 25 meters vertically

Slovak-Polish without any problems. At this point,

along the curving stairs, swim around a shallow

I’d like to calm people discouraged from diving

level, do the decompression in a tunnel at 6 meters

with a guide, e.g. after experiences from the Mol-

and then surface.

nar Janos cave. Peter gives a lot of freedom during the dive, he doesn't lead us by hand, he doesn't

Dives in the mine are led by a guide – this role is

count the time spent underwater and he doesn't

most often played by Peter Kubicka (the one from

control the team's gases. His role is limited to show-

the KUBI glove system, and several other interest-

ing places and leading through the maze of corri-

ing diving patents), who is also the contact person

dors (of course this is the case with an experienced

for booking and organizing dives. After lugging the

cave team). Once, when all my team fell away, we

equipment and catching the breath, the guide al-

went just him and me for an over90minute dive.

ways discusses the upcoming dive – a route sketch,

The standard is about 60–70 minutes and much

what is worth paying attention to, the maximum

depends on the divers gas consumption.

depth, potential threats, and for filmmakers and photographers – discussion of the formation, light

Due to the difficult logistics and no gas filling pos-

settings, and potentially photogenic places.

sibility, the standard is diving in the twin + stage 11L + optionally oxygen for decompression. In this

Peter speaks English well, and is very positive about

configuration, the twinset is always our reserve,

photography and filming in the mine. He always

and the entire dive is done on the stage. So make

tries to organize diving so as to ensure the possi-

sure bring enough stages to the mine.

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

77

Location, price list, formal requirements

off-road cars. The parking area next to the mine is

The mine is located about 20 kilometers from

large, giving the opportunity to set up equipment

Prešov, which is a good base for accommodation.

or even picnic for the accompanying persons.

If it’s important for us to sleep as close as possible to the dive site, we can stay in a guest house with

When it comes to the necessary "plastics", we will

an easy to guess name "Opal", a few kilometers

need cave certificates (preferably Full Cave, I don't

from the mine. The standard is sufficient – a room

know if Intro to Cave is enough), diving insurance

with a private bathroom, and a restaurant in the

and a medical certificate about being fit for diving –

building. We reach the mine entrance by an asphalt

this does not have to be written by a special diving

road leading through the forest, so you don't need

doctor, the guys just look if the paper looks like a medical certificate.

Diving in the mine takes place on weekends, it is possible to do two or three dives a day. In the first case we pay 60 euros for a single dive, and in the second 50 euros for each dive.

After the first visit, I returned to Dubnik in 2018 to make a decent film. This film can be found on YouTube: https://youtu.be/lD1znci1V-w

The author can be contacted here: bart.pitala@gmail.com

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79

t r av e l s

Belis-Fantanele Lake Transylvania Text and photos Karol pencil ołówek

We went to the title lake after diving in the Romanian caves of Tauz and Dobrestilor. It is an artificial lake, which was created as a result of the construction of a dam in the 70's. It is located in the area of Cluj Napoka (Cluj).

W

80

e went there more out of curiosity – after in-

me about 10 minutes. Visibility was very good as

formation found a few years earlier on Roma-

for a dam reservoir, and amounted to 5–10 meters.

nian internet forums saying that there was a flooded

Suddenly I saw a complete church tower in front

church in the lake. This place is not a popular diving

of me! It was amazing! The top of the tower at that

site, so few people dived in it. With approximate lo-

time of the year (November) was at the depth of

cation and photos from the Internet, we started our

8 meters, the entrance to the church at 22 meters. It

search from the shore. Depending on the condition

was necessary to use a flashlight, because deeper it

of water – the church is completely hidden under

was much darker. To take better photos, good pho-

water or a part of the tower protrudes above the sur-

to lights should also be used, which unfortunately

face. After a long walk, a local man accosted us ask-

I did not have. All elements of the building were vis-

ing what we were looking for. Fortunately, it turned

ible: windows, embedded crosses, inside the main

out that the locals knew exactly where the church

nave there were elements of a collapsed roof and

was. For the equivalent of about PLN 50 and after

wooden remains of benches. What’s more, the tem-

twenty minutes of sailing, we reached the place. Our

ple was in very good condition. There were other

captain indicated approximately the place where,

remnants around: plates, columns. The hour under

according to him, there was a tower of a temple un-

water passed quickly. From the main entrance led

der water (the place was not marked with buoys).

ropes towards the shore, which meant that some

After immersion I started searching, which took

people also used it for diving. The shore was steep,

so using a boat was much more convenient. It is ex-

church the bottom descends rapidly. Unfortunately,

tremely attractive, though little-known diving site. In

there was no time to look for traces of villages that

other seasons visibility can be capricious; it happens

got under the water as a result of the construction

even that one has to ‘sightsee’ the temple just feel-

of the dam.

ing it around. The water has a temperature of 12°C. The maximum depth of the lake is probably around

Karol Ołówek

40–50 m, although our captain said that at a high

SDI/TDI Scuba diving Instructor No.18951

water the depth reaches 90 m. I do not know how

Nitrox & CPROX AED Instructor

much of this is truth, the fact is that just behind the

from the editors Belis Fantanele – located in the west of the country, in the northern part of the Apuseni Mountains at the height of 990 m above sea level. It was created in the years 1970–1974. Residents of Belis and surrounding settlements were forced to leave their homes. On the Somesul Cald river a dam was built that connected the mountainous area, thus creating the artificial reservoir and separating it from the river. It is quite easy to get to the lake itself. Distance from the centre of Cluj Napoca to the Fantanele dam is 60 km. Time of the journey is around 1.30 hours.

Belis Fantanele location is extremely interesting. The coastline is varied, often creating mini bays. There are rocks in the lake, and the access to the surface itself is a serious problem in most places, due to steep shore covered with forests.

Belis Fantanele lake

the Fantanele dam

•

Length – 13 km

•

Height – 95.5 m

•

Area – 9.8 km²

•

Length – 400 m

•

Average depth – 18 m

•

Width at the bottom – 264 m

•

Maximum depth – 40 m

•

Volume – 2.315 thousand m³

•

Diving in the underwater city – from a boat

•

Current – weak

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

81

wrecks

Schleswig

Text and photos Marcin Trzciński

I do not like unlucky people. I mean those, who just running a finger on the map get a fine for speeding. Or desiring to see the desert, they spend all their savings on a trip to the Sahara desert. And at their arrival it’s a holiday there, because it is raining for the first time in 30 years… Anyway, I'm not going to dwell on it here. After all, each of you have met such a person more than once in life.

A

s you know, their bad luck is extremely conta-

that only 27 days later the battleship got a hit with

gious, which is why in the good old days, when

a 152 mm bullet from the cape battery fired from

the law and political correctness were not so strictly

the Hel Penisula. Another repair. Then the attack

obeyed, you could just throw ‘Jonas’ overboard. To-

on Denmark, where on April 8th she damaged the

day, however, the only solution is to be very careful.

underwater part by getting stranded. So… repair again. Later, while mooring in the port of Gdynia,

And what we were doing, was to push forward

the battleship ‘succeeded’ in getting subsequent

straight into the lion's mouth, i.e. to meet one of

hits from bombs dropped by RAF bombers. There,

the leading representatives of the ‘unlucky’ species:

eventually (it seemed), she was sunk by the Ger-

I am referring to the wreck of SMS Schleswig-Hol-

man sappers detonating the explosives placed be-

stein, as you have probably already guessed (look-

neath the deck. But the Germans, as always, once

ing at the title). Hardly anyone knows that this bat-

again did not appreciate the Russians, who not only

tleship's career is one long losing streak. Built in

raised the vessel from the bottom but also, after

1906, the vessel seemed already quite outdated at

towing her to Tallinn, turned her into a great ware-

the Battle of Jutland. This was confirmed by the hit

house. And then, after settling her near the island

she got, with no successes on her side, from the

of Osmussaar, made her an even better target ship

HMS New Zealand battleship. After this ‘success’ the

for their own fleet and navy. Well, you have to ad-

battleship was transformed into a residential hulk.

mit that the career of the Schleswig-Holstein appears

Since the ‘real’ ships of Kaiser's Kriegsmarine rested

to be a successful biography, right?

on the bottom of Scapa Flow, our hero was repaired and in 1926 became the flagship of the fleet. Only

Aware of Murphy's law, I expected the task wouldn’t

in order to collide with the torpedo boat Leopard

be easy. Besides, bad luck of the Schleswig already

three years later in the Baltic Sea and get repaired

touched us at the very beginning of the trip: eight

again. We all know about her achievements on Sep-

hours of storm forced our Nitrox to capitulate

tember 1st, 1939. Few people remember, however,

and return to the Hel Peninsula. It was only after

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

83

a day spent behind a safe breakwater that the sea

were not sufficient to embrace the local dialect. As

calmed down enough to make another attempt to

a result, I climbed the castle hill three times. In the

sail. Since I hate waves, it was not on board. I got

morning, in the afternoon, and then at night. When

to Estonia in a far more comfortable way – flying by

a day later to Tallinn arrived the old VW Transporter

Finnair. Only… to squander the hard-earned Euro

with Mark behind the steering wheel, we went to

in the Estonian capital while waiting for the increas-

the castle again so that he could see the old walls.

ingly late crew. I got to know nice local swimming

I mean Marek, not Volkswagen. Because Marek is

pool and some not bad pubs. Out of boredom,

an art historian. By education, not practice, as he

I even went to the local equivalent of Empik (a book-

wanted his family to have something to eat.

shop) but, despite all my efforts, my linguistic skills We spent the next night with Marek in Haapsalu, just to go the next morning… you will not guess… to visit the castle there. Afterwards, just to kill the time, we painted welcome banners for the still absent crew on the sheets purchased from a little shop. They said something like "Take us from here."

I do not know if there is anything worse than such endless boredom. But everything has its end, so on the fourth day our boat proudly entered the port in Dirhami. So storm-bitten, that even all the bunks below the deck were completely wet. Not mentioning the equipment piled up in the middle.

They were 72 hours late, but they made it!

84

wrecks

In the morning we got down to hard work to make up for the lost time. Seeing the determination of the crew, the Baltic sea finally relented and the water was almost smooth. It was rocking so little that I dared to come aboard after swallowing mag-

Laden with the equipment, we formed a single file along the side. (…) The emotions reached the zenith, although everyone

ical Egyptian pills. And there was a briefing. Based

tried to keep a poker face not to reveal

on the sonar images of the wreck received from

to others how much they were excited.

Russians, Alek, Radek and Marek attempted to develop a plan of action while the rest of us started to prepare the equipment. The way to the spot of the eternal rest of the Schleswig was not to be long,

Finally my turn came. I stood on the edge of the

so it was necessary to get ready for the first dives

ship's side, then took a long step forward, a short

without any further delay.

flight… and it turned green around. The strong current immediately caught me in the direction of the

Laden with the equipment, we formed a single file

stern, so I grabbed the rope that stretched along

along the side. It was supposed to be a preliminary

the side and, pulling up along the rope, I set off

reconnaissance, to recognize the situation under

towards the distant anchor chain. It was so windy!

water, but you know… The emotions reached the

The camera and widely spaced lamps did not make

zenith, although everyone tried to keep a poker

it easier for me. Schleswig fought desperately, try-

face not to reveal to others how much they were

ing to keep us away from her. Finally, going down

excited. I could not wait for my turn, and I only

along the chain I reached the bottom. Literally! The

dived as the sixth. I wanted to push Mark stand-

hard rock was only 11 meters below the surface,

ing in front of me so that he would finally move.

so the strong current was still perfectly noticeable.

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

85

and kilometers of all kinds of wires and cables.

It was an ammunition warehouse! Once

Marek, swimming a little more to the right, start-

hidden deep below the deck, it was now

ed waving violently. After a moment of watching

completely exposed, presenting its contents.

his bizarre gesticulations, I came to the conclusion that he wasn't bitten by anything; it was not a tropical fever attack either; it seemed rather like he tried to summon me to show me something. So

86

What was more enjoyable, however, was a quite

I moved towards him and after a dozen or so sec-

good, several-meter visibility. Poof, I think we were

onds before my eyes I had a huge turntable – the

all afraid of poor visibility. I looked around and, al-

base on which rested one of the two main gun

though I did not see the wreck itself, the elements

turrets for 280 mm cannons. Cool! Still, I did not

of equipment lying around here and there and the

know if we were in the fore- or afterbody of the

rusting Russian missiles indicated that I was in the

ship. While Marek and Romek got down to meas-

right place. Clinging to anything I found on my way,

uring the wreck, I could finally take some pictures.

I moved forward, just to notice after a few meters

And then I moved on, because I noticed the flashes

a broken side of a steel giant materializing in front

of someone's flashlight. It stayed in one place for

of my nose. It was not too beautiful… While swim-

too long to be accidental. When in the end I got to

ming over the twisted tones of iron, I was trying to

see Radek, or rather his flashlight (which showed

find some identifiable parts. Something that would

me the way), I was dumbfounded. What the hell…

tell me in which part of the battleship I was. But the

No, it was not because of Radek. I had got used to

Russians did a really good job and nothing remind-

his view. What surprised me was that he hid from

ed me of the ship seen in the pictures. Below me

the strong current behind a large piece of scrap

I had only tons of more or less bent metal sheets

metal and counted lying on the shelves long rows

of bullets. It was an ammunition warehouse! Once hidden deep below the deck, it was now completely exposed, presenting its contents. Thanks a lot.

I hoped that since the missiles had lasted so long, they would not decide to make a loud boom during our dive.

The sixty minutes limit fixed before diving passed quickly and we had to go back. Too bad, as we still had abundance of air in our twins, and I did not even see 50% of the ship. Too bad. I pierced the surface and let the current carry me towards the open ladder. On the faces of the boys I saw that they were pretty excited. They were chatting like street vendors at a bazaar, which in their case was a sign of considerable emotions. It was OK. Especially that after a quick snack we were to go underwater again. We had to wait until the evening for the promised breaded pork chops* with potatoes.

But we were so happy with the dive that it was not a problem. I dropped the gear into the right place and even without unbuttoning the dry suit, I joined the chatting group. * We received the promised pork chops late in the evening.

But they were quite tough. And the potatoes were too salty.

But it was not the cook's fault. There are not many things that can work out near the Schleswig. Her bad luck is contagious…

adverisement

wrecks

Wrecks of Istria Text and photos zbigniew rogoziński

The word ‘wreck’, arouses various emotions among divers.

For some it is associated with a pile of rusting scrap iron lying on the bottom of the sea. Others think about a part of an interesting story that rested somewhere in the depths of the seas. Most wrecks are a testimony to human helplessness against the power of nature or of our warlike nature.

H

owever, the development of underwater tour-

second visit to the Diving Center Indie. The base is

ism has led to the fact that more and more of-

located in the village of Banjole in the campsite of

ten vessels withdrawn from the service are sunk in

the same name. It is run by Sandra, Diego and Gel-

order to use them later for recreational purposes.

jko, who will accompany us during our dives. Apart from the land infrastructure, which allows the center

88

The beginning of June found us in the waters of the

to serve both recreational and technical divers, it

northern Adriatic. This is our second approach to

also has a large speedboat that makes it possible

wrecks lying around the Istrian peninsula and our

to reach the furthest destinations in less than two

During the cruise on the board of the steamer were refugees from the territory of Bosnia and Herzegovina, people returning from holidays, as well as members of the Austro-Hungarian army. Altogether, 66 crew members and 240 passengers (this data did not include children under 10 years of age and soldiers).

The passenger steamer ship Baron Gautsch was built in 1908, in the Scottish shipyard of the Gourlay brothers in Dundee. The ship's owner was the Austro-Hungarian shipping company Lloyd. Along with two twin vessels, the Prinz Hohenlohe and Prinz Bruck, she sailed on a route that stretched from Trieste to the most distant resorts of Dalmatia. During World War I, the ship was temporarily taken over by the Austrian fleet in which she served as a transport ship. During her four naval voyages, the vessel transported supplies for the troops stationed in Kotor, currently belonging to Montenegro. On the way back, she took civilians evacuated to the ports of the northern Adriatic.

On August 12th, 1914, Baron Gautsch sailed from Kotor to Trieste in her last, as it turned out, journey. Commanders of ships sailing along that route were informed about the presence of minefields in the northern Adriatic protecting the entrance to the main port of the navy in Pula. Exact navigation instructions were handed over to the ship's crew by the military authorities. The first officer on their basis planned the ship's route for this unlucky trip. During the cruise on the board of the steamer were refugees from the territory of Bosnia and hours. Our plan for this trip is simple: see the wrecks

Herzegovina, people returning from holidays, as

on which we have not managed to dive before.

well as members of the Austro-Hungarian army.

Altogether, 66 crew members and 240 passengers

The first vessel we visit during this trip is also the

(this data did not include children under 10 years

only one we dived on during our previous stay in

of age and soldiers). At 11:00 a.m. on August

Istria. The appearance and events that took place

13th, 1914, Baron Gautsch sailed towards the last

during her last voyage caused that she is some-

part of the route from the port of Veli to Trieste.

times called the Titanic of the Adriatic.

The captain of the unit went to rest, leaving the

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

89

steamer under the command of the first officer.

oil leaking from the broken tanks covered noses,

The first officer, however, left the bridge without

eyes and ears of people floating on the surface,

the captain's knowledge and went for lunch with

making breathing impossible. As if that was not

first-class passengers, leaving the ship under the

enough, the oil spilling around the sinking steam-

command of an inexperienced second officer. As

boat caught fire and some of the passengers were

a result of the error and despite warning signals

burnt alive. The passengers who survived this hell

from the minelayer Basilisk, which were not no-

later testified that many crewmen, instead of help-

ticed or understood, Baron Gautsch strayed from

ing passengers, cared only for themselves. This was

the designated course and entered the minefield

confirmed by the fact that in many lifeboats there

at full speed. When the second officer understood

were more crew members than passengers. Baron

his mistake, he tried to make a turn and return to

Gautsch disappeared in the abyss about five min-

the full sea, but it was too late. The steamer hit

utes after hitting the mine. The Austro-Hungarian

a mine that exploded on the port side of the vessel.

destroyers, which first arrived at the scene of the

Shortly afterwards there was a second explosion,

disaster, pulled 159 survivors out of the water. As

probably of a damaged boiler. There was panic on

a result of the disaster, according to various sourc-

board, passengers rushed to lifeboats, but many

es, at least 147 passengers died. Mainly women

of them could not be lowered down into the sea

and children. The victims of the catastrophe were

because of their poor maintenance. To make mat-

buried at the Military Cemetery in Pula.

ters worse, the crew closed the life jackets in the

90

cabinets, thus preventing them from being used

The wreck lies at a depth of about 40 meters on

as cushions by third-class passengers during the

a sandy and stony bottom. The hull, around which

voyage. Many desperate people jumped overboard

there are shoals of fish, has already been complete-

to get away from the drowning vessel, but the fuel

ly colonized by marine organisms. After the Second

wrecks

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

91

There are many more beautiful wrecks around Is-

The steel giants lying on a flat, sandy bottom have become, after all these years, bustling oases of life, in which

tria that we have visited. Luana, John Gilmour, Hans Schmidt, Draga, Giuseppe Dezza, Varese are just some of them. All these vessels lie at considerable depths, which means that they are beyond the reach of novice divers. All local dives border with

many marine organisms

the no-decompression limits. However, difficult ac-

have found shelter.

cess also has its advantages. A smaller number of divers saved the wrecks perhaps from devastation and their current state is caused by the passage of time rather than human activity. The steel giants

92

World War, the remains of Baron Gautsch were

lying on a flat, sandy bottom have become, after all

used within the framework of Yugoslavian navy

these years, bustling oases of life, in which many

diver exercises with the use of explosive devices,

marine organisms have found shelter. Around

the evidence of which are destroyed superstruc-

these artificially created ecosystems float shoals of

tures. Despite the fact that the chimneys and masts

chromises, oblades and common two-banded sea

are now sunken and bent, and the three screw

breams. Crumbling decks are the kingdom of scor-

propellers driving the vessel have been removed,

pions, crabs, lobsters, crawfish and nudibranches.

while diving inside the time-worn construction of

And in the dark recesses of the holds and engine

two upper decks it is impossible to agree with those

rooms, you can meet tall lycopods and shoals of

who claim that it is one of the most beautiful Cro-

poutings trying to hide from undesirable company.

atian ships.

The lucky ones can also meet here a sandy dogfish.

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Since 2016, one more attraction awaits divers visiting Croatia. In the Polje bay, near Cape Kamenjak in front of hundreds of spectators, the admiral ship of the former president of Yugoslavia, Josip Tito, MV Vis, was sunk. This 85-metre-long ship lies now at a depth of 32 meters and was specially prepared for divers before sinking, making its penetration much easier. It is true that those who want to dive on it have to pay an additional fee, but it is really worth enlarging your costs by this amount on the account of adding this wreck to your diving plans. Despite the fact that it has not been long since its sinking, the ship already has its own tenants and slowly turns into another artificial reef.

The waters of the northern Adriatic are a paradise not just for the wreck divers. As in other parts of this reservoir, you can dive here along underwater vertical walls full of crevasses and caves, in which huge amounts of various creatures hide. During the night dive, we managed to see countless quantities of crustaceans (so many crabs, scyllarides and lobsters I haven't seen anywhere in Croatia), fish and molluscs. When choosing this area of Europe, it is definitely worth to reserve some time to discover the attractions that are hidden under the surface of the local waters, regardless of the fact whether someone likes wrecks or not.

t r av e l s

Between Scylla and Charybdis the strait of messina

Text and photos Agnieszka Blandzi, Olgierd Stieler, Gianmichele Iaria

1.

"Luna" diving

you not to experiment and use the diving base, which has mastered this type of diving. The wa-

"Luna" diving is diving dependent on the phase of

ter current is so strong that it can snatch a diver

the moon (lat. luna – the moon) – so far none of

with a scooter. Time windows are not long; the first

us have ever tried it. The Strait of Messina sepa-

symptom of the current cessation is hundreds of

rates the Ionian Sea from the Tyrrhenian Sea with

jellyfish that emerge from the depths to the sur-

a deep and narrow isthmus. Thanks to the strong

face – the view is beautiful.

sea currents in the strait, rich underwater life flourishes and there are plenty of shipwrecks. Hence

2.

The base and accommodation

originates the legend of Scylla and Charybd (Sicily

94

and Calabria), the mythical monsters that devoured

A hotel by the sea, with great food. Extensive beach-

ships. The current is extremely strong, however,

es, a swimming pool, palm trees and ground-floor

and as is the case with tides of the see, it depends

bungalows. This is important as it eliminates the ne-

closely on the moon phase. Proper logistics allows

cessity of carrying equipment between the floors.

to establish short time windows when the current

Grab the bikes and go – Messina, the port, fruit and

stops and diving is possible. Here we really advise

vegetables all in extra-large size. In our hotel near

limits and the technical group are diving in the same places, however at different depth requiring different logistics. The check dive is a really "male game" – a recreational group descends to 40 meters, technical divers to over 50 meters. This is just a foretaste of what is ahead of us.

3.

Sicily in the eye of the camera

Two well-known films, the recollection of which immediately came back to us in Sicily are "The Big Blue" and "The Godfather". The first car encountered in the parking lot in front of the OloturiaSub base is an old Fiat 500, the same as in the movie, when Enzo Maiorca got a lost diver out of the crashed wreck.

There is, of course, beautiful Taormina, the place of the rivalry between Jacques On and Enzo Maiorca, and a real gem of architecture and the time capsule.

It's one of the most beautiful places in the Mediterranean. Be sure to visit the town of Savoca. It was here that Michael Corleone met with the father of his Sicilian wife Apolonia. To this day, there is the restaurant of the girl's father, signora Vitelli and the church in which the young couple got married. The original movie locations, from the times when films were still shot in the open air. In Palermo there are mummies of monks in the basement of the church.

There is the enormous Etna volcano, the wind on which almost rips your head off. After a series of very deep dives, despite the one-day break, we only Grannattari, Italian food with a strong sea flavour is

got to Crateri Silvestria. It's a little over 1,200 meters

served – delicious seafood and fish. Special, tiny fish

above the sea level. Computers arose an alarm and

in batter – neonatal; walks along an empty beach.

that was the end of our exploration of the volcano.

May is a brilliant month for a trip, children in schools,

We admire beautiful, sleepy Sicilian towns. At our

few tourists, a long day. A strong wind from Africa

fingertips are the Aeolian Islands, the land of still ac-

brought red sand that covered everything. Then the

tive volcanoes. A week in Sicily with a rich package of

rain cleared everything. It was wonderful. The Olo-

dives in the Strait of Messina is too short. You have

turiaSub base is in Messina itself, a street separates

to leave something there in order to get back for it.

us from the sea. Family atmosphere, delicious coffee – we immediately felt at home. The head of the

4.

The wrecks of Messina

Gianmichele base visited Polish shipwreck festivals several times. We have a base for ourselves, we can

Maddalena Lofaro, Mare Grosso

tinker with the equipment and follow the Mediterranean rhythm between dives. We are divided into

The wreck of Maddalena Lofaro, also known as

two groups according to your diving qualifications.

Rigoletto, is located in the old abandoned port of

One is a diving group within the no-decompression

Mare Grosso. The scenery on the shore is amazing.

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

95

The wreck lies on the sandy bottom, the incline is

plunder, as well as fire. The ship was moved out

significant and it descents steeply up to 60 meters.

of the Messina port – exposed to storms and bad

This cargo ship transporting cars sank in the 1960s.

weather; its fate was sealed… On March 14th, 2006,

Until now you can see wrecks of cars from these

"Cariddi" began a slow and unrelenting drowning,

years, tires and other internal parts. Time and the

ending up at the bottom of the sea; it is slightly

sea have done their job, they are luxuriantly cov-

inclined towards its left side.

ered with vegetation. A well-preserved propeller is located at a depth of 36 meters. The cargo bay is

On the wreck you can dive only with the permission

at a depth of about 10 meters. The sun gives there

of the local Coast Guard – it is located just a few

an amazing light.

meters from the Sicilian coast, with a partially raised stern and bow, with wide doors for entry and exit

Cariddi – a port in Messinia

of trains at a depth of 40 m. Struck on daily basis by the intense currents of the strait, the "Cariddi"

The "Cariddi" ferry was one of the first units of

wreck is full of life. Spacious cargo bays are home

the State Railways fleet operating in the Strait of

to many species of fish, molluscs and crustaceans.

Messina. Its original appearance does not corre-

96

spond to the current one – it sank in August 1943

Valfiorita is one of the most beautiful wrecks in the

during World War II. The ship was brought out and

area of the Strait of Messina. The ship left the port

rebuilt in 1951. It was extended by 11 meters to

to reach Palermo on its way to Africa. It was sunk

accommodate a larger number of cars, and railway

in 1943 by the British submarine HMS Ultor, a few

tracks were inserted. For the next 38 years it pro-

miles from the coast of Punta Faro. The torpedo hit

vided transport of trains and cars between Sicily

straight into the bow of the ship. The attempts to

and Calabria. The last "Cariddi" trip took place on

reach the land were unsuccessful, the ship broke

February 14th, 1991. Abandoned at the wharf of

into two parts and sank off the coast of Mortelle,

the port of Messina, it became a victim of theft and

at a depth of 65 to 71 m. During the dive, thanks to

Photo Gianmichele Iaria

good visibility, you can see the wreck from a depth

Diving conditions in the Strait of Messina

of 30 m. Technical diving allows you to explore the large cargo bays on the stern and admire the re-

The Strait of Messina is a wonderful place for div-

mains of the last load of trucks, cars and motorcy-

ing, but it is not an easy region. In May, when we

cles. Beautiful views with plenty of big fish; it's easy

dived, the water temperature ranged from 16 to

to stay for a longer decompression.

18°C, and the visibility from 4 to even 15 meters.

There are very strong currents reaching up to 20

Scilla – the underwater mountain

km/h. We can only dive at the right time, when the current calms down. Every day we have time win-

We sail in a motorboat from Tore Faro, the sea is

dows of one to four hours. Their number and dura-

very rough. This is a place where there is a huge

tion depends on the phase of the moon; there are

energy pole at the shore, a memorial of the former

better conditions during the quarter, to the extent

power line connecting the island with the mainland.

that even two time windows a day can appear. In

The scuba diving site "Sicilla" is one of the most

our case, we were for a week from 8 to 15 May,

beautiful Mediterranean diving spots (15-60 m, rec-

where the first quarter took place on May 13th. As

reational and technical diving together, only at the

a result, there were days when we could do only

proper time, but there are usually very long time

one dive per day, due to the lack of a time window.

windows). We sail to Calabria – under the castle of

And this must be clear: despite the beautiful sunny

Scylla there is the underwater mountain, one of the

weather and mild wind, sometimes it is not possi-

most beautiful places for diving in the Mediterrane-

ble to make two dives a day, especially from the

an. A magnificent monolith 20 meters high is located

shore. This is how it is with these time windows – it

at a depth of 15 m. It is located on a sandy ground

is important to understand this and "do not com-

and it's full of red and yellow gorgonias. And deeper,

plain or get angry that the weather is great and we

the technical divers have the opportunity to discover

can only do one dive".

the largest forest of black corals in the world.

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

97

tips & curiosities

ots Guardian a full face mask loved by the filmmakers Surely you have watched more than one movie about underwater flora, fauna and sunken treasures in which the speaker talked to you being under water. It is highly probable that the speaker was equipped with the Guardian mask.

Text robert styła Why do filmmakers use this mask?

wireless communication. The Guardian mask is equipped with

First of all, the Guardian mask is available in many colour combinations

a port to mount the underwater communication module.

(skirt/hardware): black/black, black/blue, black/red, black/pink, blue/black

We can also attach the accessory rails on the sides of the

and yellow/black. Everyone can choose something for themselves. And in

mask. Thanks to this, we can attach on the sides of the Guard-

good lighting, the mask looks great under water.

ian mask such elements as a camera or lights.

Secondly, due to the shape of the visor, the mask has a very large viewing angle so you do not have to turn your head to see more.

For people with visual impairment OTS offers special wire frames for the prescription lenses.

And thirdly, it is very easy to use.

I will reveal to you a little trick that filmmakers use to record what the speaker

Can we use a full-face Guardian mask for diving in cold

says to us: while recording the scenes, to show us the entire face of the diver, the

water (below 10°C)? And, last but not least, to what depth the

filmmakers remove the half-mask and record the scenes without it. The viewers

Guardian mask can be used?

see then the entire face of the diver.

The OTS Guardian full face mask is also designed for diving in water with a temperature below 10°C and suitable for diving

Now some data

in cold water according to EN 250:2000. The maximum depth

The mask is made of high quality silicone with double sealing from the

given by the manufacturer is 50 m according to EN 250:2000.

inside. Thanks to this, it is very comfortable and adapts to almost every face.

The buckles to tighten the mask strap (five-point strapping) are designed

The OTS Guardian full face mask should be serviced once

so that they can be easily tightened without the risk of braking the strap.

a year. The cost of such a service is about 180 PLN. Unfortu-

The mask visor is made of scratch-resistant polycarbonate. As a stand-

nately, in Poland there are not many authorized centres that

ard, the mask is equipped with ABV valve (Ambient Breathing Valve), i.e.

can perform such inspections.

an ambient air valve. The diver may breathe ambient air while staying on the surface, instead of using the breathing gas stored in the diving bottle.

To sum up: this is an interesting option for people who

The diving regulator (second-stage) is of a special design, intended spe-

would like to enrich their underwater adventures with the

cially for this mask. It can be easily disengaged from the mask for cleaning

communication system or dive in winter and want to ful-

purposes or for storing separately. The LP hose for the second stage is

ly separate from the environment (in this case: from cold

routed over the right shoulder of the diver. What's important, the standard

water). The mask in question largely increases the comfort

LP diving hoses, which you can buy in any dive shop, fit this regulator.

of diving.

But how to equalize the pressure in a full face mask? The Guardian mask has an equalizing block, thanks to which we are able to do so. Inside the mask, on a special wire form, is mounted an adjustable V-shaped block. By pressing the mask against our face, we cover the nostrils so that we can exhale against the block to equalize our ears. Of course, almost all other methods of equalizing are possible.

What else? We can use underwater hard-wired or wireless communication. While hard-wired communication is mainly used by professionals (professional divers, firemen, etc.), recreational divers and filmmakers use

s e c t i o n p atronage 98

Ocean-Tech Sp. z o.o.

Kaszubska Droga 13, 80-209 Chwaszczyno

mail: info@ocean-tech.pl on-line shop: www.sklep.ocean-tech.pl

| 99

planet earth

European flounder a baltic chameleon

Text agata turowicz

Photos marcin Trzciński

S

wimming just above the Baltic bottom, it is im-

formed into bony plates, making its skin rough and

possible not to notice a pair of small, protruding

coarse. Thanks to this, it is very easy to distinguish

eyes. They certainly belong to the European floun-

it from its cousin, European plaice, which has the

der (Platichthys flesus), which is more commonly

whole body smooth.

known as the flounder.

The process of the development of this fish is fasEuropean flounder belongs to the family of floun-

cinating, since the freshly hatched from the eggs

der fish, which is characterized by the fact that their

flounders are far from being 'flat'. They swim nor-

eyes are only on one side of the body and the ani-

mally like any other fish known to us. It is only after

mals spend most of their life lying on one side at the

some time that one eye begins to wander through

bottom of the sea. Interestingly, 70% of all flounders

the middle of the head to the other side until it is

lie on the left side, and only 30% on the right side.

next to the other eye. At the same time, the fish lays on one side and so it spends the rest of its life.

It has very long dorsal and anal fins that extend

100

from the head to the core of the tail fin. The ventral

These are curious fish, observing the world around

fin is shifted forward. Its scales are partly trans-

them all the time. Thanks to the very wide viewing

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They swim normally like any other fish known to us. It is only after some time that one eye begins to wander through the middle of the head to the other side until it is next to the other eye.

angle of up to 70 degrees, they can lie in the bottom for hours looking for their food. They feed mainly on small crustaceans, molluscs or small fish.

To hide better in the sea bottom, the flounders can change the colour of their body just like chameleons. While lying on the light sand, its body will be beige; when the bottom is dark or there is no light, the flounder turns dark brown. They can also change the colour of only one part of their body. The bottom side of the flounder is always white. Thanks to all these adaptations, it becomes virtually invisible.

The Baltic Sea flounders can be found both in the shallow waters of the Puck Bay as well as in the depths of the open sea. The maximum depth at which you can see them is up to 100 meters. Therefore, the next time you go to conquer the Baltic Sea, remember to closely watch the bottom in search of these unusual fish.

planet earth

Swans heavy weight aviators Text and photos wojciech jarosz

Mute swans

a long neck. One could inquire surprised, what

Swans are associated with ballet lightness on the one hand while on the other, they are the heaviest and largest of the Anseriformes –

a long neck has to do with water. It turns out that it is used by swans to reach for water plants they mainly feed on. The larger the range their beaks can reach, the more opportunities for effective

an order of birds including ducks and geese.

feeding. A swan's neck is one of the most beautiful

When, despite their weight, they rise into

among the birds, which is why the author writing

the air, one cannot deny them elegance.

these words paying the compliments to his Beloved Lady, happens to call her a "swan-necked". It seems that I'm not the only one, and certainly not

T

the first one, comparing a lady's neck to a swan. hanks to the enormous wings, in the air they

In northern Thailand it is particularly desirable to

move extremely effectively while on the ground

have a neck as long as possible – Karen tribe wom-

they turn into pretty grotesque walkers.

en originating from Burma help themselves in the process of "lengthening" their necks by adding one

102

On the water, however, they feel at home. They

metal ring every year. Of course, they will not in-

have been created for swimming due to the pad-

crease the number of cervical vertebrae, which is

dle-like, large feet equipped with interdigital web-

7 for a human. Compared to as many as 25 verte-

bing, perfectly functioning uropygial gland thanks

brae in this part of the spine in the swan we simply

to which the swans can thoroughly protect their

have no chance to compete. Going back to food,

feathers against soaking and, last but not least,

it may surprise the Dear Reader that bread is not

So please, remember – we do not feed swans with bread! If you do need to support a swan with a snack, I suggest vegetables and grains, and even oatmeal.

the best possible feeding option for swans. Yes, they do gobble it down greedily when we throw it along the riverside boulevards or lakesides, but such a diet may be disastrous for these birds. The syndrome of the ‘angel wing’ has been described, one of the reasons for which is too large supply of carbohydrates and proteins, and too little of some vitamins and micro and macro elements.

Consumption of large quantities of bread, mainly white bread, contributes to the build-up of this defect, which, as it deepens with time, can prevent the affected bird from flying. The direct cause is the deformation of the last joint in the wing resulting in improper alignment of the remiges, which in a characteristic way protrude from the sides. This disease affects not only swans – also other water birds fed with bread. So please, remember – we do not feed swans with bread! If you do need to support a swan with a snack, I suggest vegetables and grains, and even oatmeal. A better diet will also help the birds to maintain a healthy weight;

Whooper swans

being too heavy, they will eventually stop flying.

The above comments relate mainly to the mute

along with aurochs (Bos primigenius) (unfortunate-

swans (Cygnus olor), a number of which in Europe-

ly, the extinction of aurochs was not prevented –

an conditions have learned to live close to humans

the last aurochs disappeared on the territory of

and benefit from this closeness. These birds are

present Poland in 1627, and in the world scale the

definitely more numerous today than even a few

last individual was killed by a poacher in 1755 on

decades ago. Then, and earlier, the swans were

the grounds of the then Duchy of Prussia (on the

hunted, which significantly negatively influenced

Pregoła River)), European bison (symbol of nature

the population of these birds. Currently, there is

protection in Poland), beaver and peregrine falcon.

a noticeable increase in the number of swans population, which is a beautiful example of how much

Swans in Poland are mainly mute swans, pres-

species protection and appropriate habitat protec-

ent on the coast and basically across the whole

tion can do for the recovery of protected species.

lowland, where they are found on lakes, ponds,

In the case of a swan as early as 1525, Sigismund

oxbows, both in non-urbanized areas and within

I the Old included it in a list of species protected

cities. They stay there until the colder season, and

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

103

„Ugly duckling”

mentioned species, with a smaller amount of yel-

The image of these birds has been used since ancient times to embody such qualities of human soul and body as purity, wisdom, beauty, nobility and probably much more.

low colour on the beak compared to the whooper swans. These nest in the far north. Other species that are found in Poland do not occur naturally in this part of the world, but have been imported from other regions for breeding or, I should say, ‘ornamental’ purposes. This is the case, for example, with the black swan (Cygnus atratus), which comes from Australia and New Zealand, and was

104

later they move into the warmer regions of Europe.

already brought to our regions by the English at

That is, it should be like that. A large part of the

the end of the 18th century. Birds, being birds, can

population have learned to stay here even during

fly, so they frequently happen to run away from

the bitter frosts, counting on feeding. Those birds,

their farms. This resulted in appearance of feral

of course, need our help in case their rumps freeze

populations that began to reproduce. One of the

into ice. During migration Poland is also visited by

largest populations of black swan of this type is

the whooper swans (Cygnus cygnus) with straight

that in the Netherlands, but these birds appear

necks and yellow and black beaks, and some pairs

also e.g. in Ukraine. In Europe, you can also meet

even try to breed here. They are called whooper

the trumpeter swans (Cygnus buccinator), mainly

swans because, unlike the mute swans, which at

in the British Isles. The trumpeter swan, similarly

the most hiss, these swans are able to produce

to the whooper swan, is not a silent type (anyway,

loud sounds and are willing to use this ability. We

some ornithologists combine both species, point-

are also visited by the tundra swans (Cygnus colum-

ing to their many similarities). It is the largest of the

bianus) – apparently smaller than the two afore-

swans from North America, where at some point it

planet earth

Tundra swans

almost completely died off, mainly due to hunting

bird researchers have shown, however, that there

for the need to obtain the down of these birds.

happen ‘black sheep’ among swans that can change

Just like in the case of the mute swan in Poland

their partner. Swans breeding involves one of the

and Europe, the populations of which have been

most-known fairy tales, at least in European culture.

renewed, also in the case of the trumpeter swan

Hans Christian Andersen created an imperishably

the plan of protection has some successes in this

up-to-date lesson for younger and older people

matter. There is one more species of swan that also

describing fate of an ugly duckling. Indeed, young

comes from afar. It is a black-necked swan (Cygnus

swans are born grey and only with age their feath-

Melancoryphus), a resident of South America. And

ers become whiter. There is an exception, howev-

specifically, of this part farther south. The swan is

er. Well, the so-called Polish mute swan variety is

met as far as Cape Horn, and is also present in the

characterized by the fact that chicks from birth are

Falkland Islands. It is the smallest of swans – males

snow-white. Interestingly, it happens that in one

weigh up to 5 kg, so less than half of what a male

brood there are chicks in two variants of colour.

trumpeter weights (it is worth adding, by the way, that the latter is the largest water bird in the world).

Being close to water the next time, look at these birds remembering Tchaikovsky's 'Swan Lake' and

You could write a separate article about symbol-

the difficult history of this group of birds. Moved by

ism of the swan. The image of these birds has been

the latter, however, in no case try to hug swans, as

used since ancient times to embody such qualities

they can bruise you severely with their giant wings.

of human soul and body as purity, wisdom, beauty,

Pay special attention to males during breeding,

nobility and probably much more. Swans are often

because swans are territorial creatures, which can

indicated as an example of perfect spouses. After

chase even other birds away from their area, not

mating, they usually stick to their decision. Nosy

mentioning humans approaching too close.

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

105

professional diving

A subjective review of fairs and events related to professional diving in Poland Text and photos editorial team

M

ost of us know events related to recre-

And how about professional diving? Can you go

ational diving. The big ones in Poland

anywhere to see what the professionals use?

include Underwater Adventure, or the new

106

Dive Show Poland initiative, Baltictech dive

The biggest and probably most important fair

conference or countless Demo Days, and out-

related to commercial diving is held, like in the

side Poland: the most important DEMA in the

case of recreational diving, also in the USA. Ev-

USA, BOOT in Germany, ADEX in Singapore and

ery year, the most important people and compa-

the Mediterranean Diving Show in Barcelona

nies from the world of commercial diving come

(which is, by the way, the oldest diving fair in

to New Orleans to participate in the Underwater

Europe). In addition, there are countless small-

Intervention. During the fair take place meetings

er fairs and conferences around the world. Just

and conferences related to diving business. Here

to mention: EUDI Dive Show in Bologna or Salon

you can see the equipment of the largest players

de la Plongee in Paris.

in the market: Kirby Morgan, Brocco, Ocean Tech-

nology System, BIRNS, etc. Behind the scenes you can hear about the biggest projects in the world related to diving business.

In Europe, the very popular fairs include: Subsea Expo or DSEI in London with the NAVAL Zone.

In Europe commercial diving is often incorporated into a widely defined defense fairs. This type of fair includes the aforementioned DSEI as well as the edition of the Milipol Fair in Paris held every two years. Unfortunately, admission to the fair is at the

have appeared in Poland, there is no large thematic

invitation or you have to prove that you work in an

event in Poland.

area related to professional diving, safety or similar.

At the International Defense Industry Exhibition in And how is it in Poland?

Kielce you can sometimes see companies and technologies related to the diving industry. How-

The businesses related to underwater professions

ever, these are solutions intended rather for special

could be observed at the Underwater Works con-

units than for professional divers.

ference in Gdynia. The conference was held for the fifth time. Last time at the Naval Museum in

Only at Balt Military Expo we can see technology

Gdynia. Unfortunately, the conference hasn’t been

used not only for military purposes. Often there

organized this year, and the organizer hasn't issued

are companies that first of all present equipment

any communication about the future of the event.

for the army, and only in their portfolio they include solutions for professional diving.

Despite the fact that large projects related to, among other things, offshore wind energy, exten-

During the Balt Military Expo in Gdańsk, the NAT-

sion of the Outer Port in Gdynia or the Central Port,

CON International Scientific and Technical Conference

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

107

medicine and, finally, cleanliness and safety in the Baltic Sea. An interesting initiative in the Polish market is a conference, or rather workshops combined with the DSW (DIVE SUPPORT WORKSHOP) conference.

The first two editions took place during the 19th is held. The event has been permanently inscribed in the calendar of

and 20th session of the Scientific Conference of the

the most important events dealing with the subject of marine technol-

Polish Society of Hyperbaric Medicine and Technol-

ogies. The organizers of the conference are the Research and Devel-

ogy in Jastrzębia Góra. The next edition is planned

opment Center of Maritime Technology Centre S.A., Naval Academy

for April 2020.

and Gdansk International Fair Co. During the event are presented technical and techPTMiTH organizes the scientific conferences of the Polish Society of Hy-

nological innovations in underwater works as well

perbaric Medicine and Technology. This year a jubilee, 20th-anniversary

as achievements of companies and entities asso-

conference took place. The discussed topics involved issues such as

ciated with professional diving. The subject of the

diving medicine, underwater technology and techniques, hyperbaric

workshops is mainly related to safety, efficiency and innovation in the field of underwater works and searches. During the workshop, you can also touch and try the equipment in the swimming pool.

Among other things, anyone willing could become for a moment an operator of a remotely controlled underwater vehicle (ROV).

Despite very few events or conferences related to professional diving, we are able to find many interesting topics and new products in this market. Attending the events in Poland will certainly allow us to expand our knowledge at fairs or conferences, as well as to try new products in practice at workshops such as DSW.

108

events

report from the conference European Conference on Scientific Diving Text agata turowicz Photos Institute of Oceanology of

the Polish Academy of Sciences

A

t the end of April the Insti-

provide a convenient platform

ploring and discovering deep-water coral reefs and

tute of Oceanology of the

for exchanging experiences, es-

how the revolution in technical diving significantly

Polish Academy of Sciences

tablishing new contacts and fu-

increased the availability of specialized equipment

held the fifth edition of the Eu-

ture cooperation.

and training enabling civilian divers to safely con-

ropean Conference on Scientific

duct dives at a depth of 30 to 150 m.

Diving (ECSD5). The aim of this

This year's edition gathered over

Conference was to create a large

70 speakers from around the

The next day began with the speech of Jacek Kot,

international forum presenting

world, who shared with their

PhD, the Associate Professor at the Medical Acad-

the latest results of research

listeners their discoveries and

emy in Gdańsk, a specialist in hyperbaric medi-

conducted in Europe with the

methods using diving as a re-

cine, who shared the latest knowledge about the

use of scientific dives.

search tool, starting from the cold

causes of the development of decompression

waters of the Arctic and Antarctic,

sickness.

The history of the conference

through the Mediterranean and

dates back to 2015, when its first

the Baltic Sea to the Peruvian

Among the invited speakers was also Tomasz Sta-

edition took place in Stuttgart,

lakes and Galapagos Islands.

chura, a founder, owner and general manager of SANTI Diving, one of the most active divers in the

Germany. The following editions took place in Sweden, Portugal,

On the first day of ECSD5 the spe-

Baltic Sea, who talked during the lecture entitled

the United Kingdom and Madei-

cial guest was Dr. Richard Pyle of

‘Protection of Baltic Titanics – wrecks of Steuben, Wil-

ra. This year, for the first time the

the Hawai'i State Museum of Nat-

helm Gustloff and Goya’ about the current status of

host was Poland and the team

ural and Cultural History, who is

these three wrecks, in which a total of 20,000 peo-

of divers from IO PAN Scientific

known among the divers as the

ple died, and how to save them for the future.

Diving TEAM, led by Piotr Bała-

creator of ‘deep stops’.

zy, PhD. ECSD conferences each

On the last day of the Conference, the invited

time attract European leaders in

He told his listeners his amazing

guests could admire the beauty of the Baltic Sea,

the field of scientific diving and

story about the beginnings of ex-

taking part in diving on the Baltic shipwrecks.

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

109

planet earth

Ghost Fishing Poland we draw nets from the wrecks of the baltic sea!

Photo Krzysztof Niecko

Text bartek trzciński

Seas, oceans, lakes and other water reservoirs around the world are calling for help. Problems resulting from pollution caused by human activities are becoming more serious and (fortunately) more and more often publicised by the media.

T

he destructive impact of plastic waste on the

in our part of the Baltic Sea. In connection with

aquatic environment has recently become the

the above, a group of technical divers from Poland

number one topic for aquatic scientists, ecologists

decided to open a Polish "chapter" of the interna-

and nature conservation organisations. There are

tional project: Ghost Fishing.

hundreds of photos and materials on the Internet showing the drastic effects of ubiquitous plastic.

"We believe in cooperation, we will never solve this problem ourselves".

Discarded fishing nets (the so-called "ghost nets")

110

account for as much as 46% of total plastic waste

Ghost Fishing is a Dutch environmental foundation,

lying in the seas and oceans. These nets effectively

founded in 2009 by divers determined to act on

pollute the environment, constitute a huge threat

the issue of "ghost nets" and counteracting the

to marine animals and divers. Ghost nets are also

effects of abandoned fishing equipment.

Photo Cor Kuyvenhoven

Our mission consists of clearly defined actions:

•

Removal of abandoned nets, fishing / hunting equipment and other pollution of the aquatic environment;

•

Research and documentation of the environmental situation in local water areas;

•

Caring for the safety of divers;

•

Recycling of waste removed from water;

•

Sharing knowledge and good practice;

•

Education – both in the diving community and among those who do not dive.

The Ghost Fishing Foundation has already built a strong, international community that is still dePhoto Krzysztof Niecko

veloping dynamically. Thanks to numerous projects (including in the Netherlands, Greece, Croatia,

Full of energy and motivation for action, we are

Great Britain, Lebanon, South Korea), our volun-

about to launch this year the project Ghost Fishing

teers provide organic and recycling organisations

Poland. We know that a lot of work awaits us. We are

with dozens of tons of nets that are processed into

convinced that it is worth making the effort to help

secondary raw materials – for example for the pro-

our Baltic Sea be a cleaner and safer place – both

duction of diving suits.

for the inhabitants of the sea and for us – divers.

Photo Cor Kuyvenhoven

All persons willing to support the Ghost Fishing Poland initiative, please contact us by email: ghostfishingpoland@gmail.com

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

111

k n ow l e dg e

I came, I saw, I tell

the TecLine I Academy

t is not easy to forge (literally forge) our ideas and dreams into reality. Has it been possible for the

people involved and "handymen" hired by TecLine?

It cannot be confirmed yet, because the Academy has not started. They are now ironing out some details. Attention to detail is important. That is why

Text wojciech Zgoła

Photos tecline

I was curious, so I went to

I think it will be a special place in Europe.

The TecLine brand is recognisable among recreational and technical divers around the world. I ex-

Warsaw. After all, I had an

perienced it personally either in Croatia, Malta or

invitation from Wojtek. It would

even in Cyprus. Its main purpose is to design and

be a pity not to use it. Especially as much has been talked about the TecLine Academy recently.

manufacture equipment that increases the comfort of diving for both beginners and advanced technical divers. This is what is generally known, but the Academy goes further. An additional goal is to help instructors by facilitating the training process

112

quality of TecLine products automatically expanded. They also cooperate on the introduction of new products and new technological solutions. Now, thanks to Warsaw University of Technology, you can conduct extensive research and material tests before introducing new products. It is also possible to check how TecLine products behave under much greater loads than those under which they usually operate during dives. It can be done still in the experimental phase.

The TecLine Academy Laboratory is equipped with ANSTI testing machines that allow you to control the operation of machines in the context of the requirements imposed by the European Union. The cooperation between TecLine Academy laboratory and Warsaw Technology University enables TecLine effective quality control.

I started the description seriously and responsibly, because that is how it seems to be. However, inside the rooms it is cosy and diving-like. Why? Because we have, among others, a real dive salon. based on intuitively operating equipment. TecLine

At the TecLine Academy you can get acquainted

is growing very dynamically, striving constantly to

with the functionality of all diving solutions offered

improve the level of services related to equipment

by the company for each diving level.

consulting and maintenance of the highest quality.

It goes hand in hand with the name of our maga-

Each diver can prepare his perfect configuration,

zine. Doesn't it?

but also effectively modify it for his dive plans.

Wojtek guided me around the place and told me about the whole undertaking. It is to be a training center for TecLine professional service technicians, hardware consultants and sellers.

Behind the sliding door is a technical laboratory and a quality control checkpoint. It is worth noting that in July 2019, TecLine began official cooperation with the Faculty of Materials Science at Warsaw University of Technology. The possibility to control the

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

113

There are several racks on wheels and everything

for photographers dealing with various photo-

can be touched and tried on. Wings, sack, belt, fin,

graphic techniques.

mask and carabiner… In a word, every product in your hand!

And since I mentioned the white walls, I will add that a multimedia projector is located under the

And this is of course not the end. Because inte-

ceiling in the middle of the largest room. The Ac-

gration, knowledge, story and atmosphere are

ademia TecLine is also a dive cinema and meeting

important.

place for diving groups. The colour of the door inside, lighting, ventilation, the possibility to move

The TecLine Academy is so prepared that micro

everything properly according to your own needs

conferences can be held here. There are plans for

on a given day, makes it a great place for diving

periodic meetings with the participation of eminent

group meetings. They can meet there to plan their

specialists whose work is related to diving.

activities or sum them up. Several large screens allow you to make presentations and watch film

Hence there will be thematic workshops. And this

materials in comfortable conditions.

is because the idea for the TecLine Academy envisages it to be also a place where you will be able to

P.S.

expand your knowledge and skills on a number of

The toilet is a cave. Seriously, you will see when

specialised thematic workshops prepared for divers

you use it:)

at every level of advancement.

The white walls and ceiling have been prepared so that the maniacs of underwater photography can boast of their work. It is an ideal place for an underwater photo gallery. The TecLine Academy prepares exhibitions of underwater photography.

The exhibition coordinator enables the planning and preparation of professional vernissages

114

tips & curiosities ACADEMY

Pragmatic decompression part 1 (knowledge for intermediate divers) Text Wojciech A. Filip

Is it possible to calculate decompression in head, in a simple way? Are safe, deep, decompression dives possible without using a dive computer? Can a recreational diver make a 30m deep dive with the bottom time of 30 minutes and omit the safety stop… to be safer?

warning!

Implementing the described decompression methods without sufficient knowledge and practical preparation can be health and life threatening. This article cannot be seen as a form of training of decompression plan execution.

Everybody knows the saying ‘plan your dive and

change, or to be exact for a flexible implementation

dive your plan’. Practice shows, that such approach

of a dive plan?

is not always possible. Sometimes trying to ‘dive the plan’ at all costs can be more dangerous than

How does pragmatic decompression look in prac-

changing this plan during the dive.

tice? Every dive ends with decompression. The way of executing decompression depends on

There can be many reasons, for example we had

diver’s knowledge, skills and experience: from im-

a plan for a wreck dive, close to the bottom, but

plementing it in a form of a single safety stop and

the visibility there is zero, and a few meters above,

then continuing it after surfacing (so called no-de-

around the deck it is ok. Or: in the place where we

compression dives), watching and following dive

wanted to make a photo session a new net has

computer readings, through ascending based on

appeared – and there is a considerable risk of en-

a written plan, called a ‘runtime’, up to a smooth

tanglement. But a few meters deeper the condi-

adjusting of a previously generated plan to the real

tions are perfect. Are there simple ways for a safe

underwater conditions. And when the last solution

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

115

ACADEMY

pression tables). Now what is left is to combine the program generated plan with what we know about decompression and adjust it to the underwater conditions which as we know are very variable.

If we assume that decompression is a certain time which we should spend in a certain depth range (divided for simplicity into stops), then we can quite flexibly divide this time by combining it with the depths chosen as the most convenient for us. Of course, we can sometimes manipulate and stop within a certain range. Still flexibility is quite big, often causing surprise to those who deal with decompression issues only theoretically.

Photo Wojciech Zgoła

Simplifying: the decompression program generates is based on easy to memorize and repetitive rules,

times at certain stops, but we are mainly interested

based on knowledge and experience, then we talk

in the total decompression time, which we use for

about the ‘pragmatic decompression’. Sometimes

the purposes of our decompression strategy. There

this way of calculating decompression is called

are many elements that significantly increase both

an ‘on the fly’ method, and it also has a name of

comfort and safety in the preparation of a plan

a ‘mnemotechnic’ method.

based on pragmatic decompression. Here are the ones that cannot be missing.

Do the divers using the above method really calculate the decompression in the head?

1. The key is the diver and his/her preparation: • health, and in particular fitness and cardio-

No, this process is too complicated to be efficiently

vascular fitness (this is why GUE divers do not

calculated in changeable dive conditions (as a mat-

smoke cigarettes)

ter of fact it would be equally difficult to calculate it

• technical preparation of the diver for under-

while sitting comfortably in an armchair). On the

water activities: he/she should feel at ease

largest scale pragmatic decompression is successfully used

by GUE (Global Underwater Explorers) divers. It applies both to the simplest, recreational and to the very complex multi-gas dives. Knowledge of basic decompression issues is the first step to success. The next step is learning how to use the decompression programs (in GUE this is Deco Planner or in case of beginner divers simple decom-

116

Decoplanner

tips & curiosities

ACADEMY

Decoplanner

in the water of any visibility, maintain depth

END, ppO2 or low gas density additionally helps in

without any reference points, and basically

diving safety.

move with the accuracy of 1m Let's look at a sample dive and compare 2 ways

2. Knowledge about planning amount and se-

of implementing a decompression plan

lecting gases: • calculated and checked gas reserves for various depths

Assumption: diving at the average depth of 45 m with the bottom time of 30 minutes.

• calculated and checked deco gas reserves for extreme variants of the plan

To increase safety, we will use simplifications in the

• calculated and checked deco plans for the

form of a standard gas tmx 21/35 and one decom-

variants deeper and shallower than initially

pression gas nx 50. For now, let's just look at the de-

assumed

compression phase after changing the gas at 21m.

• emergency procedures tested and repeat-

Let’s start with a classic, i.e. a plan generated by

edly practiced in the team, including a rapid

a decompression program.

well-being deterioration of one of the team

We take underwater the above, or a more exten-

members, simple and complex equipment

sive plan.

failures, the impact of external factors, e.g. nets or local underwater inhabitants.

One of the factors which significantly simplify planning is the use of so-called standard gases. Standard gases, i.e. always the same gases for selected ranges of depth and decompression, not only simplify the planning and preparation of dives but also thanks to repetition build the diver's confidence in the solutions used. Stability of parameters such as

Stop depth

Stop length

The minute we leave the stop

21

1

34

18

1

35

15

1

36

12

3

39

9

4

43

6

20

63

perfectdiver No. 3(5)/2019

117

ACADEMY

Decoplanner

have exactly 5 stops (counting every 3 m) so we di-

Standard gases, i.e. always the same gases for selected ranges of depth and decompression, not only simplify

vide 15 min / 5 stops and… at each stop we have time of 3 min. And we include moving among stops in the time of decompression.

the planning and preparation of dives

There are more interesting facts – for example, what

but also thanks to repetition build the

to do if one of the stops has been omitted?

diver's confidence in the solutions used.

Is it possible to quickly modify the plan if my suit leaks and the thermocline begins at 15 m?

It is worth considering – what would we do in such situations using a classic plan?

Now the second option – how it will be done by a diver who uses pragmatic decompression

Before I invite you to the second part of this article, showing more details of pragmatic decompression,

He/she will remember that each stop should be

I want to share with you a thought that was bother-

3 minutes and the last stop 15 minutes.

ing me when I was learning to dive using the runtime method: how many contingency plans, covering

How is it calculated?

so many various situations, should I prepare and

Using a pragmatic form of implementing the de-

master when planning a difficult decompression

compression plan, we use easy-to-remember

dive? And the second part of this thought was: what

simplifications, for example we know that bottom

will I do if for any reason I can’t read the plate with

time = decompression time.

the spare runtime?

So, the first information is that the deco time =

When to use linear decompression and when "S"?

30 minutes.

When can we skip the deco? How to apply pragmatic

It is known that after such a dive, the deco time can

decompression in recreational diving?

be divided 50/50.

So, we have the second piece of information:

118

15 minutes between 21 meters and 9 meters and

For more interesting facts, I’d like to invite you to the

15 minutes at 6 meters. Let's simplify it even fur-

2nd part of the "Pragmatic Decompression" in the

ther: between 21 meters depth and 9 meters we

next issue of Perfect Diver.

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