Perfect Diver Magazine 1 issue

perfect

diver diving

No. 1 01/2018

Price 14,90 € Tax included

freediving

passion

knowledge

crocodile in nature Face to face with a dolphin Diving Safaris

the foreword

Wojciech Zgoła

Editor-in-Chief

Some Serb proverb says: "The man who thinks he is perfect is perfectly wrong".

I have dived for several years, I have written about the underwater world for 10 years, and for the last couple of years I have been the instigator and editor-in-Chief of the Polish diving magazine Divers24. I am happy with what I have achieved, but this part of my life is now over. Perfect Diver – a new project on the world stage of dive and travel media is an attempt to go one step further. We strive to perfection, especially when we love something, when something interests us, and over time it becomes a passion.

Perfect Diver was born not only from experience, but also from the desire to seek new knowledge and the hunger for further development.

Our authors are hotheads and professionals. They love what they do. Creating publications they refer to their own experience, but do not avoid talking and drawing upon archival sources. Perfect Diver is supposed to be a magazine which provides knowledge, transmits emotions and just for a while gives you a little break from the everyday rush. It also has to be a kind of battery that will charge you with energy and ideas for your own underwater explorations.

The main article of the current issue is a crocodile in the wild. The beautiful and unique wildlife shots are to stimulate your appetite for life, on the one hand, and on the other hand, to make you think about what we are looking for in diving – adrenaline, personal fulfilment, calm and contact with wildlife? Reading this text I hope you will remain charmed by the photographs and the story for a longer time.

Enthusiasts of shipwrecks, as well as of flooded mines and quarries, will be satisfied.

We have for you the announced Molnár János from Budapest, but also the plane wreck from Malta. There is also the unusual history of rescuing sailors, a handful of information about how and when to choose a safari on the Red Sea, and if you prefer a longer stay at one place, we offer you some tips of how you can approach famous Dahab.

I cannot reveal to you everything, because you will not want to look inside. And although I am not perfect and I could be wrong, I have the feeling that you will have a positive surprise, because along with the editorial team we have prepared for you a real feast.

We want the electronic version of the magazine to be downloaded for free, which is why we propose a financing model based on a voluntary donation. Remember that if you like it, you can always support us by transferring any amount to: PayPal.Me/perfectdiver

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

3

ta b l e o f co n t e n t s

travels 10

Crocodile in nature

22

Diving Safaris

32

Dahab, an oasis of peace and quiet and unforgettable dives

38

Gran Canaria, the "continent" in miniature

planet earth 46

Face to face with a dolphin

from a freediver's perspective

22

56 Freediving in Poland 58 Freediving – disciplines played on the pool

knowledge 60 More water, less bubbles

wrecks 66 Bristol Beaufighter, Malta

sunken secrets 72

The terrible hours

technically 76 Molnár János

4

66

Publisher perfect diver wojciech zgoła ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo redakcja@perfectdiver.com ISsN 254-3319

nature 82

Skuas, the sea robbers

editor in chief

Wojciech Zgoła

columnist

Irena Kosowska

underwater archeology

Mateusz Popek

freediving photographer english language translators

Agnieszka Kalska Jakub Degee Agnieszka Gumiela-Pająkowska Arleta Kaźmierczak

legal care

graphic design and composition

Lawyer Joanna Wajsnis Brygida Jackowiak-Rydzak

the magazine was folded with typefaces

Montserrat (Julieta Ulanovsky)

82

Open Sans (Ascender Fonts) Spectral (Production Type) printing Wieland Drukarnia Cyfrowa, Poznań, www.wieland.com.pl

CURIOSITIES

distribution dive centers, online store

preorder@perfectdiver.com

90 Hańcza, the deepest lake in Poland

cover photo

Jakub Degee model

American crocodile (Crocodylus acutus) place

Banco Chinchorro

www.perfectdiver.com

90

The Editorial Office does not return unsolicited materials, is not responsible for the content of advertisements and reserves the right to shorten, edit, title the submitted texts and select illustrative materials. Reprinting of articles or parts thereof, copying only with the consent of the Editorial Board.

Editors are not responsible for the form and content of advertisements.

If you like this issue, donate any amount!

Donation is voluntary.

PayPal.Me/perfectdiver perfectdiver No. 1/2018

5

e d i to r i a l t e a m

Wojciech Zgoła

irena kosowska

jakub degee

He often repeats that he travels by diving

Regional Manager Divers Alert Network Pols-

Polish photographer, winner of awards

and that is his motto. In 1985 he obtained

ka, diving and first aid instructor, technical

and distinctions in world underwater pho-

a yacht sailor's license, and only in 2006

diver and cave diver. In love with all flood-

tography competitions, has already dived

began to dive. In the following years he

ed, dark, cold, tight places and invariably

all over the world: with sharks and whales

improved his skills by obtaining the Dive

from the beginning of the diving route – in

in South Africa, with orcs behind the Arctic

Master degree. He completed nearly 650

the Baltic. Implementing the DAN mission,

Circle, on Galapagos with hundreds of ham-

dives in various climatic conditions. Since

he conducts a series of lectures "Dive safe-

merhead sharks and humpback whales

2007, he has been taking photographs un-

ly" and Diving Safety Laboratory, so field

in the Tonga Islands. He participates in

derwater, and since 2008 he has also been

research of divers for scientific purposes.

specialist photographic workshops. He

filming. As an independent journalist, he

has been diving for 27 years, he started at

published dozens of articles, mainly in

the age of 12 – as soon as it was formally

journals dedicated to diving, but not only.

possible. He was the first in the world to

Co-author of photo exhibitions in Poland

use the Hasselblad X1d-50c camera for un-

and abroad. He is passionate about and

derwater macro photography. Recently, in

propagator of diving.

the remote Chincorro archipelago on the

Since 2008 he has been running his own

border between Mexico and Belize, he did

website www.dive-adventure.eu. On the

it again, taking a successful attempt to pho-

basis of extensive experience, in August

tograph the eye of a crocodile with a mac-

2018 he created the new Perfect Diver

ro lens with an additional magnifying lens,

Magazine.

which is the world's largest photo of the crocodile's eye living in the wild (in terms of pixel count, print size, quality).

Mateusz Popek

Agnieszka kalska

"My passion, work and life are under water."

"I can not imagine life without water, where

He has been diving since 2009. Since 2008,

I experience freedom of the spirit in my free

he's walking in caves. Underwater archeol-

body."

ogist by education. He participated in nu-

●● founder of the first freediving and swim-

merous projects in Poland and abroad. He

ming school in Poland – FREEBODY,

has been engaged in professional diving

●● freediving instructor Apnea Academy In-

since 2011. In 2013 he obtained the qualifi-

ternational and PADI Master Freediver,

cations of a 2nd class diver. Has experience

●● record holder and multiple medalist of

in underwater work both at sea and inland.

the Polish Championships, member of the

Since 2013 he has been diving in caves, es-

national team in freediving 2013–2018,

pecially in the mountains, and since 2014

●● finalist of the Freediving World Cham-

he is a diving instructor CMAS M1.

pionships 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018, ●● a Polish national championship champion and a member of the national team in swimming in 1998–2003, ●● passionate about freediving and swimming.

o u r au t h o r s

piotr stós

Agnieszka Krotecka-Elbendary

Nabil Elbendary

From Cracow, a graduate of the Jagiellonian

Started as a consequence of birthday cel-

A true enthusiast of the underwater world,

University, Instructor CMAS, PADI, SSI, pho-

ebration when she got a birthday present

an expert in all kinds of diving equipment

tographer and underwater photography

in the form of a diving course. Today she is

and a lover of two wheels. An exceptional

instructor, marine hydrobiologist. He has

an experienced and passionate instructor.

professional and dedicated trainer, instruc-

been diving since 1986. A perfect illustra-

Eager to dive anywhere and with every-

tor and adviser. He has been involved in

tion of the sentence: "choose a profession

one – provided in a dry suit. Exceptionally

diving since his childhood, and he knows

that you like and you will not have to work

sensitive to cold. But with unusually hot

the Red Sea from the inside out. A very ex-

all your life". In the years 1993-1996, as an

heart. Not only can you have fun with her,

perienced diver, in love with the abyss of

employee of the Biology Department of

but also learn a lot about diving from a

the sea. Always positive to the world and

the Polish Academy of Sciences, he carried

"feminine" perspective. Her life motto: "If

with his love for water he can infect even

out research on organisms inhabiting Tatra

you want to do something, do it properly".

the most stubborn ones. And as a real man

ponds. He was one of the originators and

Looking for a way out matters – not looking

befits – a Master chef. A passionate advo-

founders of the first Polish diving travel

for excuses. She loves Thai cuisine (after

cate of constantly improving qualifications,

agency "Nautica", operating since 1986. He

dives), snowboarding (between the dives)

extending skills and practicing diving tech-

organized trips to the Maldives, the Car-

and everything that is chocolate (can eat

niques, that's why he is happy to give you

ibbean, Mauritius, Galapagos, Indonesia,

chocolate even during diving).

hints and helps all interested people.

Micronesia, Malaysia, Thailand and Russia.

He most often dives in his favorite Croatia, where he manages the Nautica Safari diving bases on the islands of Hvar and Vis. Co-organizes and conducts trips to diving safari

Together they run the Balanced Divers Diving School in Dahab. They are a well-coordinated team on land and underwater. They both focus on safety and professionalism combined with joy and determination in discovering the depths.

in the Red Sea, preferably of course photo-trips, dedicated to adepts of underwater photography. Co-owner of Nautica Safari s.j. www.nautica.pl, piotr.stos@nautica.pl

cezary czaro abramowski

Grzegorz Świątnicki

Technical and cave diver with 15 years of

A graduate of Poznan University of Tech-

experience, participant in many explora-

nology, a fan of diving and running. Pro-

tion projects in deep and cave diving. For

fessionally deals in the management of

more than 10 years, he has been training

a production company. A self-taught pho-

divers and instructors on all levels on

tographer, he has been taking the camera

open circuits. The owner of the first Polish

under water for several years. He values

Academy of Technical and Cave Diving –

simplicity, efficiency and safety, that's why

DeepExplorers.pl. In free time enthusiasts

he dives and trains based on the GoSide-

of underwater photography on technical

Mount philosophy.

and cave diving.

Mexican caves are his favorite dive site.

A passionate propagator of statements that "water is for fish" and "running is overrated".

o u r au t h o r s

jakub Banasiak

marcin adamowicz

tomasz jeżewski

Diver from 2008. Passionate of the Red

Technical diver and photographer, not

He is an architect by profession and runs

Sea and pelagic ocean predators. Devoted

only underwater. A fan of wild nature and

his own architectural studio. Diving is his

to the idea of protecting dolphins, sharks

communing with nature, he loves traveling,

hobby, and his favorite occupation is to in-

and whales. He dives mainly where you can

especially foreign ones, which he organizes

fect divers with Razor and the GoSideMount

meet these animals and monitor the level

on his own. Social activist, organizer and

philosophy. He is the 14th official GoSide-

of their well-being. Member of Dolphinar-

program director of the "Głębiny" Diving

Mount instructor in the world. As far as pos-

ia-Free Europe Coalition, volunteer at Tethys

Film Festival.

sible, he supports Krzysztof Starnawski in

Research Institute and Cetacean Research &

his dives in Europe. In addition to infecting

Rescue Unit, associate of Marine Connection.

and training others, he continues to train

For 10 years he has been involved in re-

himself. Since 2013, he visits his instructor

search on wild dolphin populations and au-

Steve Bogaerts every year and trains him-

dits dolphinariums. Together with the team

self in Razor's "hometown" environment –

"NO! For the Dolphinarium" he prevents dol-

in the caves of Mexico.

phins from captivity and promotes knowledge about dolphin therapy unsaid or concealed by centers which make money on this form of animal therapy.

wojciech jarosz

michał smaga

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the

For several years a diver, a speleologist

Academy of Physical Education (coaching

a bit shorter. Currently he is trying to com-

specialization – handball) and the Univer-

bine these two disciplines by diving, where

sity of A. Mickiewicz, Faculty of Biology

it is possible under the ceiling. A fan of div-

(specialty of experimental biology). He con-

ing in unusual places and discovering new

nected his professional life with this first

diving spots. Amateur photographer, and

university trying to influence the direction

even more amateur traveler. Passionate

of development of future professionals on

about archeology, would-be underwater

the one hand, and on the other planning

archeologist. In spare time, a professional

and implementing research, pushing labo-

programmer.

riously in the right direction of the stroller called science. In his free time he spends his time actively – his main passions are sailing (sea helmsman), skiing (downhill skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle, recreational diving and many other activities, as well as photography, mainly nature.

new trade fair on the European Dive-Map

Dive Show Poland 2018 part of World Travel Show 2018

This initiative aims to: yy Promote safe and responsible diving practices. yy Promote safe and approachable scuba diving among non-divers. yy Integrate the international diving-society above any divisions. yy Bring more awareness about dive-community in Eastern Europe.

Dive Show Poland 2018 will take place at:

PTAK WARSAW EXPO Al. Katowicka 62, 05-830 Nadarzyn, Poland

start:

19 October 2018 – end: 21 October 2018 Join us on the show!

https://warsawexpo.eu

https://diveshowpoland.pl/

info@diveshowpoland.pl

t r av e l s

10

Crocodiles in nature Text and photos jakub degee

Reef, beautiful fish, all the colours of the rainbow – the most beautiful underwater views we can imagine!

But how many times can you do the same thing? Every experienced diver is looking for more excitement.

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

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S

ome people choose ice diving, others dive

a bound mouth during specially paid dives on

in wrecks, others do technical and cave div-

Palau or small, harmless crocodiles in Cuba. We

ing. Those who still want to be close to animals

are writing about a real 4–5 meter, unpredicta-

usually choose to dive with sharks. With some

ble beast, coming from the time of dinosaurs,

sharks one can dive in cages. With other species

living in the wild.

one can risk diving without equipment. The socalled shark diving has become in the diving busi-

Such an opportunity arose five years ago on the

ness a symbol of the diving adrenaline. When

archipelago of Chincorro, belonging to Mexico,

you have already "covered" all species of sharks,

which is located close to the border with Belize.

you want more of such experiences. But with

The local fishermen living in a nature reserve,

which animals?

who have permission to fish and catch lobsters, for years have struggled during certain months

12

Crocodiles are the answer to this demand. Re-

with hundreds of crocodiles that live on that

cently in the diving business there is a percep-

island and wetlands. Nobody knows how croc-

tion that crocodiles will become the sharks of

odiles got to the archipelago that is situated

the year 2020. And we are not talking about

dozens of kilometers away from the mainland.

a small crocodile, which is released with

Crocodiles do not move so far. The most likely

theory is that the crocodiles have been caught

cell phone signal disappears completely. After

by storm and washed ashore of the Chincorro

5–6 hours we reach Xcalak, a small fishing set-

archipelago, where they do not have natural

tlement. Here you need a place to stay in order

predators (even humans cannot hunt them

to board in the morning a specially chartered

because of the fact that it is a nature reserve)

boat and sail in the direction of Banco Chincorro.

and that is why they have multiplied rapidly and

I personally deal with the organisation of this

dominated the whole area.

trip, as well as other expeditions. I do not use national or European organizers of diving trips

In the first stage of the journey you have to get

and I try to reach the local operator on my own,

to Cancun, the oasis of all-inclusive resorts. Then

to make all the arrangements directly with him

you have to spend 5–6 hours in the car head-

and create an agenda tailored to my project.

ing south on the way to Belize. After an hour and a half you pass by Tulum – which was once

The boat trip takes two hours, but it is always

a destination for trips due to its monuments,

against the waves, which means a lot of intense

and today it is full of the supposed wild nature

sensation and yet more water sweeping through

resorts. After three hours we pass by the last

the deck. All our possessions are kept in large

significantly sized town and from that point the

watertight Peli cases, so only the humans have

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

13

14

to endure these conditions. It is advisible to have a good oilskin jacket, but rarely anyone manages to travel this route in a dry t-shirt.

Before checking in at Mr. Matraki's house, who lends us his room for the next two days, we stop for a dive on one of the reserve's reefs. This is a unique dive, because it is for hunting. Hunting?!? In the reserve??? Certainly many people will find it absurd. And yet it is a completely legal action, needed, planned and approved the organization that oversees lionfish fishing. The point is that this species of majestic fish did not occur on the east coast of the Americas before 1980. This is a so called invasive species. It arrived here from the Red Sea or the Indian Ocean. By the lack of natural predators it has multiplied at an unprecedented pace and caused huge devSource: https://www.usgs.gov

astation on the reefs (see the map).

Recently in the diving business there is a perception that crocodiles will become the sharks of the year 2020.

The caught lionfish will serve as a bait for the crocodiles. It is the only species of fish that can be used for attracting reptiles, which is why it is so important to get enough of them during the dive. It is hunted with a simple spear with three sharp skewers on one end and a rubber band for drawing and launching on the other end. This only works for a very short distance, but it is not a very precise tool. Probably the point is that nobody should have an idea to use it for hunting other species.

Source: https://www.usgs.gov

After catching the adequate number of lionfish we head to a charming fishing village consisting of several wooden houses on stilts. Sounds

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

15

like water-bungalows in the Maldives, however,

and the current is weak, the visibility is very

these huts resemble more stalls with tin roof.

good. However, in strong winds, waves and cur-

Interestingly, no house located in this turquoise

rents sometimes you can only see on one metre

lagoon has a descent into the water, so that no

ahead. In these conditions, being in the water,

reptile can climb inside.

you have to beware of any sounds. Crocodiles have poor eyesight, but they can locate their vic-

Of course, there is no running water and only

tim due to splashing or other water movements.

rainwater collected in a large barrel is used.

Everyone gets one third of a small bucket as

The very confrontation with the crocodile looks

a daily limit of water to use. There is also no

like this, you put on a snorkel mask and a heavy

electricity, but we took a small generator with us

ballast belt (min. 8 kg for the maintenance of sta-

to charge the batteries for the cameras.

bility in the water), and then with a boat ladder, as quietly as possible, enter the water. In front

The huts have no beds or any other comforts.

of a crocodile there stands a croc handler (this

The only option is installing hammocks and

time and on any previous occasions in my case

sleeping close together, in the only availa-

it was a Belgian: Mathias Van Asch) armed with

ble chamber.

only a 6 foot long wooden stick. You can take a position on the right or left side of the croco-

16

The transparency of water depends mostly on

dile expert, meaning that in the water there may

the weather conditions. When the sea is calm

be present at the same time only two divers/

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

17

photographers. After previously agreed time

member. One stands in the bow and attracts

eg. 20 minutes, the first two people come out of

the attention of the crocodile throwing him the

the water and then the next two take their turn.

lure attached to the line. The second one is on the stern and secures the rear, i.e. he or she

The objective of my

looks whether another crocodile does not sneak up from another direction. Despite the fact that

project was the maximum

there are from 300 to 500 crocodiles on the is-

approximation of the eye

land, only a small part of them can be persuaded

of a crocodile. I wanted to take the largest, in

to leave the wetlands and take advantage of the free meal offer.

terms of printability,

The objective of my project was the maximum

photograph of the eye

approximation of the eye of a crocodile. I want-

of a free-living crocodile.

ed to take the largest, in terms of printability, photograph of the eye of a free-living crocodile.

As a camera I used a medium format Hasselblad

18

Croc handler has the support of two people on

X1d with a 120mm macro lens. It turned out,

the surface: the captain of the boat and a crew

however, that this magnification is too small, so

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

19

Next year I will fly there

crocodile allowed himself to approach the huge camera housing with lamps at 8 cm from his eye.

again, to show once again, in a creative way, the animals that have lived on the Earth for two million years.

Personally, I am very satisfied with this trip, so I went back to the same place again. The very cutting off from civilization, living in a hut of a fisherman, sleeping in a hammock, harsh living conditions, lunch consisting of freshly caught fish is a great experience for me, and make this place completely unique. However, the opportu-

20

I added a SubSee+5 diopter Magnifier. But even

nity to look at a four-meter beast from the times

with this magnification the eye of the crocodile

of dinosaurs straight into the mouth is a great

did not fill the frame. Ultimately, I decided to use

injection of adrenaline. Then you can really feel

the SMC1 lens. In such a set, the camera was

that you are breathing fully. Next year I will fly

focusing 8 cm from the end of the macroport,

there again, to show once again, in a creative

so to take this picture I had to go so close to

way, the animals that have lived on the Earth for

the crocodile. It took a lot of trials, because no

two million years.

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

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t r av e l s

22

Diving Safaris

it ' s time to admit i ' m addicted …

Text and photos Piotr Stós

My name is Peter. I am 53 years old. I am addicted to diving safaris. For fifteen years I have been on a roll – I have made over one hundred such trips to the Red Sea as a guide, instructor and tour leader. People know about my addiction.

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

23

T

hey ask – when to go, what route to take?

vember and April–June, when the water is warm

They go into the subject of seasickness, ex-

in a pleasant way and the air does not resemble

amine what a day on a boat looks like, check

the blasts from the smelter. The low season for

whether there are vegetarian dishes and if it is

divers includes the middle of the summer, when

safe in Egypt. The initial certainty with which I an-

the heat makes you seek shelter under the air

swered all the questions has decreased signifi-

conditioner, and the winter months, with a short

cantly over the years. Now I know that there is

day and an obligatory polar fleece sweatshirt, as

no guarantee of the best route, boat or weather.

well as a hat after a night dive. Although the wa-

I know that, if sometimes a strong wind blows,

ter always has a temperature of 23°C, it is cool

dive plans fall apart in the blink of an eye, and

on the leeward side of the boat. After a few safa-

"the certainties" – such as dolphins in the Sataya

ris I knew that you might have a swinging cruise

lagoon – might have their affairs in another part

in the high season, and a warm windless winter

of the reef. It's a bit like with the Every Flavour

safari, on the sea as smooth as the surface of

Beans from the Harry Potter book – you never

a pond. The October storm with hail (we were

know which one you will pull out of a bag.

throwing snowballs at one another), which I experienced two years ago near Hurghada, killed all my illusions about predicting the weather on

BEST TIME, BEST ROUTE, BEST SAFARI

I do not use these terms anymore

Officially the

high season falls on the periods September–No-

24

the Red Sea.

Similar superstitions apply to the safari route.

this group, go to a north safari (with wrecks) or

Each of them can provide unforgettable nature

to the best ones of the north (Thistlegorm, Steel

diving and aesthetic attractions, but at the same

Reef and Brothers Islands). On these routes the

time on each, if such is you karma, there might

ratio of steel to corals is the best for you.

be very strong currents, poor visibility and sharks might not to want to come. As they say: "Beau-

Every safari can be the "the best". If you meet

ty lies in the eye of the beholder. Focus on the

dolphins under the water, take a beautiful pic-

positives and you will be delighted. You'll see!"

ture, learn some new skills or simply spend a week in a good company, neither the route

There are two factors that must be taken into

nor the date of your trip will matter. This is con-

account from the beginning. People with little

firmed by safari old stagers, who signing up for

diving experience should start with a safari in

the next trip do not even ask where the boat

the coastal zone, among shallow reefs. It will

will go, because, as they claim – everywhere

be nicer and safer. One of the southern routes

is great :).

(Foury Shoal or St. John's Reef), where the reef is beautiful and the water (usually) calm, will be

EYE TO EYE WITH NATURE

perfect . The second selection criterion applies

The Red Sea is inhabited by 1200 species of

to divers who like all the dive sites, provided

fish (including 44 species of sharks) and over

these places have a shipwreck. If you belong to

200 species of corals. That is what Wikipedia

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

25

and sometimes nothing… Do not be discouraged and return to places known for meetings with specific species, this will be rewarded. Some animals keep guard in the same places. You will meet a big Napoleon fish before entering the tunnels at Umm Khararim, and an old hawskbill sea turtle in the Thistlegorm hold, under one of the trailers. Egyptian guides' briefings abound in often humorous expressions in almost every language of the world. This is a funny way to say that while diving there is no guarantee of meeting a turtle, fish or snail. In practice, it is worth using the help of local guides, because they have a trained eye and many years of practice in finding underwater creatures.

100%

What you will see in the Red Sea for sure is a reef. Colorful, varied, top of the line. One of the most beautiful that I have ever seen in my life. Divers from other parts of the world envy us the possibility to dive in Egypt. For them it is too far away… This reef develops on the slopes,

Source: Nautica, Kraków

on underwater ergs and pinnacles, small clumps

1 Northern safari 2 Tiran + Dahab 3 Top of the North 4 Wreck safari 5 Golden triangle 6 Top of the South 7 St.John's (Abu Fandera)

on the bottom. In the open sea – on Brothers Islands or Daedalus Reef, and closer to the shore – on Tiran Island and Ras Muhammad National Park, the reef falls deep along the vertical walls.

says. Armed with such knowledge, full of ex-

It's a fractal creation – approaching it, you'll see

pectations enhanced by films from the Animal

the geometric order, the lace-subtle levels of

Planet channel, we set off on the Egyptian reef

the organization. I think that many divers never

forgetting that the Red Sea (and every other) is

really look at the reef carefully. Do not hurry,

not an oceanarium, animals do what they want

but look closely and patiently. It is impossible

and where they want, and filmmakers spend

to return from a morning slow dive on the apt-

weeks to hunt a few minutes of a good material.

ly named reef Heaven (on Foury Shoal) without

Places in the middle of the sea that are known

the feeling that you have experienced a meeting

for having big fishes, such as the famous Broth-

with something unusual.

ers Islands, they can surprise you with a com-

26

plete lack of sharks, meanwhile at Shaab Mak-

EAT, SLEEP AND DIVE – A DAY ON A SAFARI BOAT

sur, in the coastal group of St. John's Reef, for

A day on a safari boat begins early – between

a few days in a row you'll be watching a whale

five and six in the morning. Coffee, tea, sweet

shark swimming carefree along the reef. On the

snack and after the briefing, we jump into the

Daedalus Reef a manta will sometimes come up

water. Why so early? Morning dives give you the

to you, sometimes a flock of hammer sharks,

best chance to see large predators in action:

sharks, morays, serranid species, and the warm

the crew gives a gala dinner by candlelight with

and plastic light of a rising day that is seeping

dancing on the top deck – this is an opportunity

through the water has no equal. After finishing

for those who have not pracised the Egyptian

the dive and breakfast, the boat usually moves

step dance before.

to a new place. The bottles are filled and the divers are resting. About 11 o'clock the sound of

Four dives a day is the usual standard on the

the bell (a typical way of signaling on the boat)

routes on which a boat does not cover large

announces another briefing and diving. Then

distances between reefs. A similar daily num-

it's time for lunch and an afternoon nap. The

ber of descents we can have in the marine parks

next cycle of briefing and diving is after chang-

(Brothers, Daedalus, Rocky and Zabarghad)

ing the position of the boat at about 3 p.m. The

where night dives are prohibited for safety

afternoon diving usually takes place in the place

reasons. With such an intense diving program

of an overnight stop. After a night dive, dinner

I highly recommend you use Nitrox. This will

is served at around 8:30 p.m. At the end of

allow you to extend your no-decompression

a day there is time for an evening conversation,

times (for example, while exploring the wreck

a small drink, a water pipe and sleep, although

Thistlegorm), but most of all, you will reduce fa-

sleeping is a waste of time... On the last day

tigue after a dive. You will have more strengh

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

27

for reading or your social life. If you do not have

just an aquarium with warm, clean water, reef

authorisation for using nitrox, during a diving

and fish. Don't think of it that way. Open-sea

safari there will be an opportunity to obtain it.

safaris are one of the best schools for a comprehensive diving practice. During the six days

Each cruise begins with a detailed discussion of

you will dive in caverns, in the current, in mid-

the standards of life on a boat and the specif-

water, at night, in a wreck, in shallow water and

ic nature of diving in the open sea. No worries,

in deep water, from a large boat and from a Zo-

all the issues that may be new to you will cer-

diac raft… You will perform from 18 to 22 dives

tainly be discussed. The most important rule is:

and each time you will be a better and more

in situations of extreme confusion, when you no

informed diver, regardless of your former ex-

longer know whether the bell calls for a briefing

perience. However, no matter how much you

or a meal, it is enough to touch your hair: dry –

dive and train, and how many evening stories

briefing, wet – food.

you listen, the sea will surprise you with something from time to time. A year ago I wrongly

30

PRACTICE AND HUMILITY

estimated the current conditions on the north

I have a feeling that those who know the Red

wall of the Daedalus Reef and an innocent mid-

Sea from the perspective of the coastal reef of

water trip in search of hammer sharks ended

Hurghada and Safaga underestimate it. Well,

with uncontrolled floating along the reef. In-

foto: M. Wojtasik

What you will see in the Red Sea for sure is a reef.

Colorful, varied, top of the line. One of the most beautiful that I have ever seen in my life. Divers from other parts of the world envy us the possibility to dive in Egypt. For them it is too far away…

flatable boats were looking for us almost for

Safari nurkowe Egipt Sudan

ponad 20 nurkowan w tydzien foto tripy genialne nury

an hour, but we did not get bored because all that time we were being accompanied by two white sharks. They say that an expert is someone who has made all the possible mistakes in a narrow field of knowledge. I think it was another step for me on this way… It is clear that no one expects you to conduct your own dive.

There are guides to do that for you. They know the wrecks, the reefs and their inhabitants, they know how to get back to the boat and what to do when a nagging turtle comes close, just as it has recently happened in Malahi (Nepal). They are the voice of reason, when you suddenly dream about breaking the record of depth, and they are your remorse when you are too close to the reef in photographic amok. It's good to learn from them. However, I am most happy when, during a safari, the diving self-management develops in my team, including knowledge, experience and common sense. This is a skill that

konkurs nagrajżeWygraj wygrajże safari

w Egipcie

www.nauticasafari.pl/konkurs #NauticaSafariKonkurs

can not be acquired by obtaining certificates, but through a diverse and developing practice.

And if this practice is an extraordinary adventure, we achieve a real diving ideal, a synthesis of pleasure and safety. This is what I do wish for you and all current and future participants of our and other trips.

NauticaSafari

www.nauticasafari.pl 797 025 117

t r av e l s

Dahab

an oasis of peace and quiet and unforgettable dives Text Agnieszka Krotecka-Elbendary and Nabil Elbendary

Ras Abu Galum

We present a series of

Ras Abu Galum is a coastal area in the Nabq

articles about diving sites

Protectorate in the northern part of the Gulf of

along the Red Sea. In this issue, we focus on the most spectacular diving sites in Dahab, a seaside town on the coast of the Gulf of Aqaba in Egypt.

Aqaba, surrounded by mountains and a desert.

In 1992 this area became a nature reserve to protect the mangroves and coral reefs there.

Because of its shape, it is characterized by a huge variety of flora and fauna both terrestrial and aquatic. On land, we can find such living organisms as Rueppell's foxes, hyraxes or striped hyenas. Immersed in the underwater world, we can admire a wealth of untouched coral reefs, herbs, water creatures and lagoons;

32

in one word, virtually everything in one place:

various fish and larger specimens, such as tur-

a dream of every diver.

tles and manta rays.

True freedom of spirit, a joy of life, inner peace

There are three ways to get to the reserve: con-

and harmony. Do you know these feelings? They

veniently, by car from the city of Nuweiba, quick-

are guaranteed here! We have experienced it on

ly on camels (wake up at dawn) or quietly by

our own

boat (the best choice).

Nothing brings in such a blissful and reflective

Blue Hole

state of mind as sandy beaches and night under the starry sky. A day spent under water?

It is a huge cleft (sea cave) of a coral reef, which

A dream!

is considered to be one of the most beautiful and treacherous places on Earth, attracting

In the reserve, there are 10 charming diving

every year thousands of tourists from around

sites, beautiful and unique. Diving takes place

the world.

by the shore and regardless of the experience under the water, each diver will find something

Blue Hole is located 8 km north of Dahab and

interesting. Depths reach 70+ m (technical dives

has the form of a sea well with a depth of ap-

require a more complex plan). Depending on

prox. 110 m and a diameter of 60 m. In one of

the location we have a gently falling bottom or

its walls at a depth of 54 m a rock arch opens

a steep slope. Under the water, we can find lush

up (the Arch), which descends to a depth of

patches and pinnacles of coral reefs, shoals of

110 m; the bottom gradually narrows down just

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

33

to fall as a steep slope to a depth of 120 m. At

Blue Hole, despite its charm, has taken the lives

a depth of 6 m, we can find a shallow passage

of dozens of people. That's why diving here is

(the Saddle) to the open sea, which dazzles us

recommended just for people with an advanced

with the palette of colours and the diversity of

certificate at least, or who are under the supervi-

flora and fauna. The blue hole is surrounded

sion of an experienced instructor or guide.

by coral reefs and rich marine life, and at the bottom young hammerhead sharks live, which

To commemorate the divers who made their

until recently were only known to technical di-

last dive here, a memorial plaque was placed

vers. Last spring they showed up just under the

by the beach, introducing tourists to a moment

surface of the water.

of reverie.

Not far from the Blue Hole is another, equally

This is certainly a place where you can largely

wonderful diving place – El Bells – a small crack

develop your skills and get hooked on diving.

in the rock with a diameter of approx. 3 m and a chimney 30 m deep. Below it there is the sea

Gabr el Bint

abyss reaching 300 + m. From here you can take a drift dive along the rock wall or sometimes in

The Gabriel Bint reserve is a charming place,

the sea current.

a visit to which must necessarily be added to your bucket list. Due to its location, quite distant

34

In coastal restaurants, you can eat something,

from the city, this place is visited less frequently.

relax and recharge your batteries before the

We can get there only by safari boat, on foot

next dive.

or on camels; that's why coral reefs there are

almost intact. It is located in the south of Dahab,

crocodile fish, Acanthuridae, rays and fish of

an hour's drive from the port.

Ballistidae family.

You can practice two different dives here. The

Every diver will find here something interesting,

right side called the dark one, is characterized

both the poetry of the colours and the charm

by a steep wall, falling down to 60 m and strewn

of the depths.

with clefts, sandy ravines, and rock protrusions.

The slope is dotted with Acropora pulchra (ta-

If you want to discover the magic of the blue

ble-shaped corals). The left side is much more

space, feel the wind in your hair and admire the

colourful, characterized by an extensive gorgo-

beauty of nature, do not hesitate! Jump on the

nian colony. Boulders, located on steep slopes,

boat and hit the road!

attract large shoals of anthias and Glassfish. It's always worth keeping your eyes wide open be-

Caves

cause you can meet spectacular travellers like whale sharks, manta rays, turtles, and dolphins.

If you want to take a rest away from the tourist

At a depth of 10 m, there is a sandy area, par-

hustle and feel the call of nature, this is a unique

allel to the shore, surrounded by coral walls,

place to experience an amazing underwater

inhabited by small fish species: scorpionfish,

adventure. To the south of Dahab, away from

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

35

36

the city noise, on the way to the destination, a charming landscape of the canyon is waiting for you. You can admire it feeling the wind in your hair while driving on the back of the offroad car. There is no cave on the site, despite the first association with the name of the place, and the main attraction is a huge underwater rock overhang at a depth of 7–12 m. It is an exceptional diving site thanks to its impressive rock formations and diversity of underwater life.

The entrance, which starts with a sudden drop to a depth of 5 m, is often hampered by weather conditions. In the wind and waves, it is worth having a smart partner with you, who will help you put on the fins, give a hand on your way back or help you jump on the rock ledge. The sandy bottom gently descends to 40 m and is dotted with fine eels and seahorses. Penetrating depth, blueness and the surrounding space set in a reverie and peace of mind, and the element of Water arouses boundless respect.

Diving ends at a majestic overhang from which you can observe the play of lights and sunrays.

To experience this beauty, it is best to do diving between 10 a.m 1 p.m, when the sun is at its highest point; after 3 p.m the mountains which are right on the shore, cast the shadow on the Caves overshadowing the beauty of this area.

This wonderful diving site is suitable for everyone – both recreational and technical divers.

Dahab – a town of carelessness and inner harmony. A place where all stresses fade away and all that remains is the joy of life. Peace and quiet and diving fulfillment guaranteed. The first visit will not be your last

t r av e l s

Gran Canaria a "continent" in miniature

Text and photos Marcin Adamowicz

Why Gran Canaria? Where did the idea for the Canary Islands come from? Well, the assumptions of the trip were such: not too far away, an exotic but affordable place.

W

e flew there at the end of October. You

of one of the diving centres, many of which

need to warm up yourself in the sun,

are on the island. With a lightning speed, we

swim in the sea and recharge the batteries

received answers to our email inquiries about

before long winter in the northern parts of Eu-

diving packages and attractions offered. We

rope. There were also non-divers with us, which

decided to choose the Dive Academy, a diving

is why the destination had to be attractive not

centre located in Arguineguin. It turned out that

only for divers but also for tourists. Hence the

the law here prohibits the rental of the diving

choice fell on Gran Canaria, an island located

equipment itself, it must be combined with the

centrally in the Canary Islands, between Tener-

purchase of a diving package, and the diving is

ife and Fuerteventura, lying just off the north-

possible only with a guide. In addition, diving

west coast of Africa.

insurance is mandatory, which, as it turned out

The Irish carrier turned out to be the cheap-

later, is always verified and checked.

est. We flew from Krakow, Poland. We were

38

stationed in San Agustin, within a complex

On the site

with a swimming pool, located practically over

As the entire archipelago is a volcanic creation,

the very ocean. What was left was the choice

we are surrounded by a truly lunar landscape

marked with ubiquitous palm trees. My attention is drawn to the network of modern, perfectly marked roads, with the GC-1 highway in the first place, leading almost around the entire island. On our way, we do shopping at the local Hyper Dino chain store, affordable, offering a wide range of products. I especially recommend Canarian bananas, smaller than those known in European supermarkets, but much sweeter and more appetizing.

We spend the next day in Maspalomas, on a beautiful, wide beach. Maspalomas is famous for its great sandy dune system. The beach indicates the beginning of the Maspalomas Nature Reserve, consisting of the El Palmeral palm

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

39

grove, the La Charca floodplain – a stopover on

in the documents; also our insurance policies

the migration route of birds to Africa – and the

and diving certificates are verified.

dunes themselves, changing their shape constantly due to the wind blowing from the ocean.

Sardina

Our attention is also drawn to the historic Faro

After a half-an-hour drive, we reach Sardina del

lighthouse, 55 meters tall, the construction of

Norte, the northern corner of Gran Canaria, far

which lasted for 28 years! Indulging carelessly

from the golden beaches of the south, large ho-

in the sea and solar baths, however, I have just

tel complexes and ports full of enormous, luxu-

one, exciting idea in my head and in front of my

ry yachts. It is not a place appearing in touristic

eyes: the diving starting the next day…

leaflets and it doesn't even aspire to be such a place. Life passes peacefully there, no one

40

Dive Academy – professionals in every detail

is in a hurry, and the nose is wafted with the

We arrive at the diving centre the next morn-

scent of fish and seafood prepared in restau-

ing. To our eyes is revealed a beautiful com-

rants located along the road. No wonder, as

plex lying next to the ocean, with two pools for

it is one of the richest regions throughout the

trainees, an office, a room with a compressor,

archipelago when it comes to the underwater

a hardware store and a small shop, where we

world. And that attracts a lot of divers. We have

can buy not only small diving equipment, such

two dives planned here. The maximum depth

as masks or fins but also suits, diving regulators,

of both dives is 18 meters, just enough to bal-

dive computers, etc. We are welcomed by the

ance ourselves and get familiar with the equip-

friendly owner of the centre, Matthew Center,

ment. It's been a long time since any of us dived

a Briton with a resonant English accent. We fill

in such a light configuration. The temperature

of the water is 24 degrees; we are swimming

the capital of the island. There Jose is waiting

over the sandy bottom admiring the great shoal

for us – an enormous, long-haired owner of

of barracudas, proudly hovering in the depths

a boat on which we will sail to the sea to dive

and a large ray, beautifully gliding just above

next to a wreck. Arona is a huge merchant ship,

the bottom. All the time we are accompanied

100 m long and 15 m wide, which sank in 1972

by a shoal of thousands of small fish, curious,

as a result of a great fire. It lies on the right side,

watching us and maintaining the same direc-

at a depth of almost 40 meters, at a distance

tion of swimming at the same time. Fascinated

of 6 nautical miles from the port. It is a favour-

by the wealth of species, colours, and shapes

ite place for experienced divers where they can

of sea creatures, we listen to the characteristic

admire the richness of life around and inside

noise generated by the sand, which, thanks to

the wreck. After about 20 minutes of sailing,

quite a strong waving, is constantly in motion.

we reach the buoy, which marks the wreck. The

During the surface interval, our guide Simon, an

first dive, in our international group of divers,

elderly, cheerful and very friendly Englishman,

is planned around the wreck. At a depth of

offers us a rest in his befriended pub. Here sea-

only a few meters, you can already see a huge

food specialities are prepared – fish, paellas,

hull, masts, towers, and remains of rigging. Ap-

octopus and squid salads, etc. On our way back

proaching the wreck, we notice a huge gap in

we can’t wait for the next day. Our plan is to

the side, scattered parts of the hull and other

experience one of the biggest diving attractions

elements of the ship. The hull and towers are

of the Canary Islands…

covered with all kinds of polyps and sea anemones. The shipwreck is a house and a hideout

Arona

of dozens of fish species. Among the dark cor-

Today our guide is Ignacio, a young and cheer-

ridors and on the deck of the ship, you can see

ful Spaniard. We get to the port of Las Palmas,

the Priacanthidae, scorpionfish, cardinalfish,

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

41

pike-characins, sea breams and many more.

the manometer forces us to start ascending.

We dive around the entire wreck and head to-

A large shoal of barracudas is watching us on

wards the descending line.

our way to descending line.

We spend the surface interval in the water,

The wreck made a huge impression on us. Per-

floating around the boat in neoprene foam

haps it is because it is not a ship that was pur-

suits, to avoid the seasickness, which is easy

posely sunk and thus, to some extent, we can

to get on the boat. We start the second dive

feel its tragic fate. The richness and diversity

from the bow, slowly heading toward the inside

of life, as well as the size of the wreck, are also

of the wreck through the gap in the deck. The

impressive.

hearts beat harder when we enter. In the dark-

42

ness, only in the light of flashlights, we look at

El Carbon

the equipment scattered around. Bent metal

We also dive in the El Carbon reserve, located

sheets and corroded parts of the propulsion

on the east coast of the island. This is one of the

units make us realize the enormity of the trage-

three marine reserves in the Canary Islands. It

dy. In the darkness many species of fish found

is a vast bend of diverse sculpture with sur-

shelter. Inside the hull we cover quite a con-

prising biodiversity, consisting of over 10 dive

siderable distance, filming and taking photos.

sites – you need several dives to fully learn the

Here and there, some light passes through the

secrets of this place. Unfortunately, we have

blue clearances. Unfortunately, the readout of

only two dives, but Simon assures us that the

route he chose will allow us to see the most of

joying the local specialties and taking baths in

the beauty of this place. We dive along a rocky

the ocean. It is not without reason that Gran

shelf, slowly descending to a depth of about

Canaria is called the "continent in miniature".

9 meters. We pass the bends full of dark recess-

It owes the name to this huge diversity of land-

es until we reach a wide sandbank, located at

scape, from the damp and windy north through

a depth of 23 meters. The diversity of the en-

the mountainous central part of the island, up

vironment is delightful and ever changing with

to the hot south. Journey around the island

each meter passed, and the richness of marine

surprises us with the huge contrast between

life forms impresses us, with a huge number of

the well-developed tourist infrastructure and

Aulostomidae in the first place (so-called Trum-

nature that has been intact for centuries. This

petfish), "hanging" motionless vertically or hori-

is why the island was declared the Biosphere

zontally in the abyss. From beneath the stones

Reserve by UNESCO. It's a kind of theme park,

and rock nooks, we are observed by moray eels

offering breathtaking landscapes. The central

posing beautifully for photos. We also dive into

part of the island is a sunken volcanic caldera

the cave. In the middle of it lies a huge stingray,

called Caldera de Tejeda, with the highest peak,

unmoved by our presence. After the last dive,

Pico de Las Nieves elevated to 1949 meters

when we leave water I feel unsatisfied – El Ca-

above sea level. There are innumerable pictur-

bron natural reserve is a perfect place for un-

esque ravines and canyons, overgrown with

derwater photographers, and although there

palm trees and vegetation not to be seen any-

are several hundred pictures on the card in my

where else in the world. The north-east part of

camera, I still have not enough…

the island is an industrial area, with an airport and capital city, Las Palmas. The south consists

Last Days

of countless beaches, resorts, hotels, restau-

We spend our last days with the rest of our

rants, yacht ports, etc. This diversity means that

non-diving comrades, visiting the island, en-

everyone can find something for themselves –

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

43

both nature lovers, enthusiasts of all kinds of

There are several dozen diving centres on the

water sports, as well as those who relax spend-

island, offering both beginner and advanced

ing whole nights in clubs and discos.

courses as well as guided diving. The lack of facilities for technical diving was a surprise to

Summary

us. Here you can dive only in foam suit, with

What charmed me, personally, in Gran Ca-

a single cylinder; most probably no diving base

naria? A rare phenomenon being the result

offers double-cylinder diving sets. The biggest

of a bizarre combination of cultures, which

advantage, however, is that the season here

have been developing here for hundreds of

lasts all year long!

years. Over the centuries, Gran Canaria was the last port of Europe before setting off for a long journey over the Atlantic Ocean. That is why the island became a kind of a stop for people of different origins and roots, a mixture of smells, colours, and cultures. Therefore, in my opinion, the statement that Gran Canaria is only a cluster of shoddy resorts on a volcanic island, which apart from beaches and all-night places of entertainment has nothing to offer, is absolutely incorrect.

44

MIEJSKIE CENTRUM KULTURY IM.H.BISTY W RUDZIE ŚLĄSKIEJ

planet earth

Face to face with a dolphin Text and photos jakub banasiak

What is so magical about dolphins that so many people dream of a close encounter with these animals? Why does swimming with dolphins for years appear on the lists of "100 things that you must do before you die"? How is it that the organization of various forms of communing with dolphins is already a billion-dollar business? But the question is, what price do dolphins pay for these encounters…

46

T

he dolphin madness has lasted since the

500 dolphins in captivity were analyzed. Many of

sixties and started in the United States with

them are directly related to the living conditions

the famous TV series "Flipper". The dolphin fever

in the dolphinarium:

at some point also struck divers and freedivers,

●● exhaustion/overheating – 15 specimens,

mainly due to the movie "The Big Blue" and the

●● stress – 24,

magical shots of Jacques Mayol (played by Jean-

●● transfer/transport – 26,

Marc Barr) diving with bottlenose dolphins. After

●● attack from another dolphin – 27,

"The Big Blue" broadcast, everyone wanted to

●● ulcers – 36,

swim with these animals. When a few months

●● accident/injury – 52,

after the premiere of "The Big Blue", in the mari-

●● anesthesia/medical intervention – 57,

na of a small seaside town of Collioure in France,

●● drowning – 76.

a lonely female (later named Dolphy) appeared,

a h a n d f u l o f s tat i s t i c s

literally thousands of dreamers started to hit the town to spend a few moments with her in the water. To protect Dolphy from the invasion of tourists, the city authorities brought to Collioure the well-known dolphin whisperer Eric Demay, provided him with a flat, a Zodiac boat and all the necessary measures to ensure the safety of the animal. Already at that time, it was intuitively known that the contact of a dolphin with man is not necessarily good for the former.

Half of the captive dolphins die in the first 2 years of captivity, the rest survive in captivity on average 6 years.

50% of wild caught dolphins do not survive "adaptive procedures".

Every year, an estimated 100

While the wild dolphins in the sea have at least

dolphins is hunted in Taiji, Japan

hypothetically the ability to escape and to dis-

and 200 on the Solomon Islands

tance themselves from the crowd of swimmers, the dolphins in closed reservoirs pay a particularly high price for interacting with people. By

(on these occasions 100 times more of these animals die).

participating in swim-with-dolphin programs in dolphinariums, we often have no idea of how

Although marine parks in the USA and Europe

serious a drama we are becoming a part of.

are required to keep strict records of cetaceans in

Because slavery for such a marine mammal is

their possession, in many other countries there

really deadly.

are no such registration requirements. It is difficult to get complete and accurate numbers of

In the United States alone, where the stand-

how many dolphins or porpoises died in captivity.

ards of dolphinariums are much higher than in

According to the estimates of organizations deal-

other regions of the world, 1127 dolphins died,

ing in the protection of dolphins, this number is

of which 50% did not even reach the age of

approximately 5550–6000. New marine parks are

10 years, and 83% the age of 20 years. As shown

constantly being opened all over the world – the

by the data from the Marine Mammal Inventory

market of whales raised in captivity or captured

Report and the National Marine Fisheries Ser-

from the natural habitat is constantly growing.

vices, as many as 313 dolphins born in captivity

This business moves from Europe and the USA

have reached the average age of just 2.5 years.

to China, flourishes in Russia, the Arab countries

In the same study, the reasons for the deaths of

and the Far East. Demand stimulates supply.

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

47

A backstage drama

dom specimens, where acts of aggression,

Why are the conditions of life in captivity affect-

wounds, etc. are very common.

ing the well-being of dolphins so much?

which are devoid of natural stimuli. The

dolphinariums, animals have a very drasti-

lack of natural light in some places, harm-

cally limited space and cannot satisfy their

ful chemical composition of water, noise of

natural locomotor and exploratory needs.

music and filtration devices – these are just

The consequences of this are apathy, ste-

some of the stressful factors that weaken

reotypies and aggression.

of the immune system and consequently

●● They are deprived of very important natural social ties. The juveniles are separated from

48

●● They are kept in tight, concrete reservoirs,

●● Even in the largest and most well-known

lead to numerous infections, ulcers, skin diseases, etc.

their mothers early, that is why they cannot

●● They are forced to perform unnatural be-

function in natural peer groups, perform

havior, circus tricks, dangerous to their

different social roles and learn from their

health. At the same time, they do not have

mothers and other family members. They

to show their natural hunting behaviors

remain in artificially created groups of ran-

(because they are fed with dead fish), they

must stop using their key sense – echolo-

14,000 m² of water in the fenced part of a nat-

cation (because the ultrasounds reflected

ural sea bay. Dolphins have here a much larger

from the pool walls cause their disorienta-

space for living, social behavior, reproduction,

tion and exacerbate the stress).

hunting for live fish. They live in the sea water,

●● Monotonous frozen food, often of dubious quality, contributes to diseases and dehy-

in a naturally shaped herd, based on parental and partner ties.

dration of organisms and leads to the necessity of artificial invasive irrigation with

On the Dolphin Reef you can both dive and

a hose inserted directly into the stomach

snorkel with dolphins, but such sessions are

(dolphins do not drink and all their water

quite strictly conducted: they are held only

comes from the eaten fish, the frozen fish

with a guide, the dolphins cannot be touched

contain much less water).

or chased, and a close encounter only occurs when the animals themselves decide to get

Dolphin sea pens

close. The Dolphin Reef also provides a dolphin

And what about places such as the Dolphin

assisted therapy, but in contrast to other simi-

Reef in Eilat in Israel? This Dolphin Reef is about

lar places, the dolphins are not rewarded with

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

49

food for participating in sessions with patients.

that are unprepared for medical treatments

The animals decide themselves whether they

can not be helped in the case of diseases. The

come to patients and interact with them. They

earlier attempts of giving outpatient assistance,

also have an opportunity to take shelter from

when a sick animal was drawn ashore, were so

swimmers and divers in remote corners of the

stressful for the dolphins that they were given

sea farm, if they are tired of people's company.

up altogether. Also for this reason, the dolphin

They spend most of their time on natural activ-

mortality rate is relatively high here. The possi-

ities: playing, taking care of calves, sometimes

bility of letting the dolphins out into the open

fighting for domination in the herd. Dolphins are

sea (which was part of the original Dolphin Reef

not encouraged to perform circus tricks.

idea) was also excluded, as the mammals used to the presence of humans sought contact with

50

At first glance the Dolphin Reef seems more like

tourists on nearby Israeli and Egyptian beach-

a sea sanctuary than a dolphinarium. But even

es, which posed a serious threat to both sides.

here problems arise. The half-freedom formu-

The herd is based on inbreeding, and subse-

la of dealing with dolphins and not interfering

quent generations are condemned to life in

with their behavior became a trap. Dolphins

captivity. Although there are no noisy filtration

facilities here, dolphins as acoustic animals are

sleep while swimming and this is a very bad mo-

exposed to the noise of outdoor events often

ment to disturb them with our presence. We

held on the beach of the Dolphin Reef, and

appear on their "sleep route" and Zodiac boats

above all, the noise of nearby ships and military

with tourists usually throw people into the water

units. Cruise ships are particularly troublesome,

directly on these animals' routes, simply getting

they get close to the net and stop at the sea farm

in their way. Boat operators do not usually re-

so that tourists can observe the dolphins.

spect the hours of dolphins' sleep. Hopping into the water, we stop their sleep and force them

And what about swimming with dolphins

to escape, sometimes even to leave the reef…

in the open sea?

Divers, freedivers and snorkelers are tempted

Another problem is the "trapping" of individu-

by reefs that are natural habitats for dolphins.

al dolphins. Such a dolphin is probably a scout,

For example, there are at least a few of them in

checking if it is safe on the reef. If he encoun-

the Red Sea: Shaab El Erg, Fanous East, Sataya,

ters many boats and people in the water around

Samadai… Are meetings with dolphins in such

him, he will probably return to the herd with bad

places safe for animals?

news and the dolphins will be doomed to find another place to rest. And that is not easy at all.

After night hunting and covering significant dis-

It may also happens that this is a sick individual

tances, dolphins need sleep and rest. They have

who has no strength to follow the herd and is

been coming to the reefs known as "a dolphin

very stressed, often hungry and weakened. The

house" for years, because their location and

pressure of divers, freedivers and ordinary tour-

shape gives the animals the opportunity to take

ists only deepens the trauma.

shelter from currents and sharks. Unfortunately, when they return after a night hunt, tourists wait

All these facts highlight the importance of re-

for them in their home in the morning. Dolphins

sponsible tourism (diving tourism included) and

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

51

how important it is that we should be reasona-

only clowns in water parks in many corners of the

ble while making our dreams come true.

»civilized world«?"

Maybe he was right, the hero of "The Big Blue", Jacques Mayol, who once said: "The best way to express our gratitude to the dolphins would be to leave them alone. Man needs dolphins, not the other way around. […] What a farce and cynicism it is to call our »water-friends« the creatures that we have captured and trained. Have they not become

52

Jakub Banasiak – Member of the Dolphinaria-Free Europe Coalition, a volunteer at the Tethys Research Institute and the Cetacean Research & Rescue Unit, a Marine Connection contributor. For 10 years he has been involved in research on wild dolphin populations and dolphinariums audits. Together with the team "NO! For the Dolphinarium", he takes actions against keeping dolphins in captivity and promotes such knowledge about the dolphin assisted therapy, which is concealed or hidden by the centers profiting from this form of an animal assisted therapy.

SPEŁNIAJ SWOJE MARZENIA O NURKOWANIU!

ACTIVTOUR oferuje: profesjonalne wyjazdy nurkowe z polskim przewodnikiem oraz propozycje wypraw szyte na miarę

Szeroka oferta wyjazdów do EGIPTU: pobyty stacjonarne oraz safari nurkowe – polskie grupy!

More information on the protection and welfare of dolphins on the following

DOŁĄCZ DO NASZEJ WYPRAWY!

sites: delfinaria.pl czydelfinoterapia.pl niedladelfinarium.pl delfinoterapiawpolsce.pl https://www.facebook.com/naratunekdelfinom/

www.activtour.pl, www.activtour24.pl tel. 607 777 538, 71 322 12 66 info@activtour.pl facebook.com/activtourpl

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from a freediver ' s perspective

O

n my way to the World Championships, proudly dressed in the blouse of the Free-

diving Poland team, a red one, with our national emblem of the Eagle on the chest and the inscription poland on the back, I got on the plane. Sometimes I manage to take my monofin on board with me and this time this was the case.

It always evokes curiosity of the cabin crew and passengers. Somewhere from behind my back, I can hear: "Excuse me, what's the discipline?", "Freediving" I answer. “What?!” “Well… freediving" "Ah…" – the tone of the voice confirms that my answer gave not much explanation…

Freediving in Poland is still a mysterious concept for everyone. Although the scuba diving industry is widespread, freediving is just beginning to build its position. There are only a few instructors dedicated to this passion and even fewer freediving schools. This does not prevent Polish freedivers from achieving world's achievements.

In the history of Polish freediving, we already have 21 medals from the World Championship and hold several world records. During the last AIDA Freediving Pool World's Championship in Belgrade, Polish team won 7 medals, including 3 gold, and our representatives took part in many finals – but did anyone hear about it?

Probably yes – the family and the closest friends of the contestants.

Others often look confused, asking themselves – how is it possible that the world champioship in freediving can be held at the

Freediving in Poland

pool? Is there really such a deep swimming pool built anywhere? Well, it's hard to blame the Poles for lack of knowledge about this discipline, since it is not broadcast on TV, and access to the Baltic Sea is just a small fraction of our border. Although we have Hańcza, a lake over 100 meters deep, it is just one such a place, and in addition, it is located in the most remote, north-east corner of the country. If you even get

Text agnieszka kalska

there, the sun will disappear at the 20th me-

Photo Jakob Boman

56

ter, and thermocline will meet us even before the tenth meter. For some the joy of freediving in such a place is doubtful. For me personally, this is where one of my most emotional dives took place – without a diving cylinder, of course.

Well… could it be just because it was in winter and under the ice?

Other freediver-friendly diving sites include several flooded quarries in central and southern Poland. In other lakes, we can enjoy peace and quiet, and beautiful, mostly covered with forest landscape over the surface of the water.

Many areas surrounding lakes belong to landscape parks and nature reserves. Unfortunately, as we sink into the water, we must be exceptionally lucky to have such water transparency that allows us to see what lies farther than 3 meters away. Of course, if that's the case, we can be fascinated by the amazing fauna and flora – you only need to know when, how and where to find it. Fallen trees are hiding places for predators, and in the depths, you can often find more mild species, on no account smaller in size. Vegetation in Polish lakes can be rich. In addition to the often encountered watermilfoils, charas, waterweeds or Potamogeton, you can also find beautiful meadows of water pineapple (Statiotes Aloides). It is difficult, however, to look for anything below the 6th meter – under the thermocline the vegetation practically does not exist.

However, the Poles love freediving anyway! To dive freely we do not need clean, deep waters.

We may as well close our eyes and sink along the rope into a brown-green abyss, to experience the extraordinary peace of mind and body relaxation, which remain with us for much longer than the time when we hold our breath. For those who are afraid of this darkness, there is the pool. Here, under controlled conditions (always only under the watchful eye of a person assisting), we can dive into ourselves – still on

the surface in static apnea or just below the sur-

To explain what freediving is,

face, dynamically covering subsequent meters

the next issues will include

with or without fins – it is something the Poles are the best in the world!

So, do not judge Polish freedivers. Support them and try yourself to dive once, at the pool or in

a description of particular parts of this activity, as freediving is not just a sport…

To start with, here is something

a dark, cold lake, before you express your opin-

the Poles are quite good at:

ion. Freediving in Poland can be really pleasant :)

freediving pool disciplines.

f r e e d i v i n g d i s c i p l i n e s h e l d at t h e p oo l

According to the organization rules AIDA (Interna-

DNF – DYNAMIC WITHOUTH FINS, moving underwater

tional Association for Development of Apnea):

horizontally without fins.

DYN – DYNAMIC WITH FINS, moving underwater

wearing fins.

The general rules are the same as for DYN. Here, however, the competitor cannot have additional equipment on feet. It usually involves the move-

The competitors may use any fins or monofins.

ment of arms and legs alternately, a style similar

You can use the suit and additional load or dive

to breaststroke but under water.

just in the suit. The technique of moving or reversing next to the wall is not strictly defined.

The competitor must cover at least a part of

world record:

each length with the whole body submerged

●●

244 m Mateusz Malina, Poland

under the water and cannot move limbs over

●●

191 m Magdalena Solich-Talanda,

its surface. Speed and time of swimming do

Poland

not matter. The goal is to cover the longest distance possible, with the airways underwater all the time. world record:

●●

300 m Giorgos Panagiotakis, Greece and Mateusz Malina, Poland

●●

243 m Magdalena Solich-Talanda,

Photo Amy Humphries

Poland

58

Photo Agnieszka Kalska

STA – STATIC, i.e. timed static apnea.

According to the rules of organization CMAS (World Underwater Federation):

This is the only discipline of freediving, where

Statics (STA) and dynamics without fins (DNF)

the time counts for the result achieved. Here it is

are carried out according to similar principles.

the time from the moment of immersion to the moment when the airways (mouth or nose) sur-

DYN discipline is divided into DYN Bi-Fins –

face that dictates the result. Freedivers remain

where separate fins are used and only the crawl

on the surface for the entire duration of their

(scissor) technique is allowed and DYN Mono-

test, most often in a standstill, minimizing oxy-

fin – here freediver can use a monofin which is

gen consumption. Each freediver has his guard-

more effective.

ian who announces the time or gives other tips and supervises to ensure safety during the test.

Additional disciplines in CMAS are based on the time achieved in order to cover the following dis-

world record:

tances, including breaks for breath after covering

●●

11 min 35 sec, Stéphane Mifsud,

one length of a 50-meter long swimming pool:

France

●● 100 m Speed Apnea

9 min 02 sec, Natalia Molchanova,

●● 8 x 50 m Speed Apnea

Russia

●● 16 x 50 m Speed Apnea

●●

polish record:

In the case of aida, the length of the swimming

●●

8 min 46 sec, Matuesz Malina;

pool is not important – all records are identi-

●●

6 min 27 sec, Adelina Hetnar-

cal. The cmas organization divides the records

Michaldo

achieved in the 25-meter pools and 50-meter pools into separate categories.

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

59

k n ow l e dg e

more water, less bubbles

Dehydration – what is it?

nitrogen is leached out of the body in the lungs, but this process will be less effective if the diver

We speak of dehydration when the body loses

is dehydrated. In this situation, the formation

more water than it receives. Dehydration can

and growth of gas bubbles will increase, which

lead to various types of medical problems that

can lead to decompression sickness.

can be avoided in a simple way – by ensuring the right level of hydration.

Dehydration reduces the volume of blood plasma and impairs gas exchange in tissues, thickens

Dehydration – how does it affect divers?

blood and limits its flow. Because the blood is partly responsible for the transport of nutrients

For divers, dehydration causes an additional

and gas exchange, thicker blood will increase the

serious problem – an increased risk of decom-

risk of decompression sickness.

pression sickness.

Basically, diving itself also increases the risk of

60

Decompression sickness is caused by nitrogen

dehydration. During the research conducted as

bubbles forming and growing in the blood and

part of projects carried out by the DAN Diving

body tissues. They can lead to hypoxia, or tissue

Safety Lab (DSL), we noticed that many divers

hypoxia. Under normal conditions after a dive,

are not well hydrated before diving (and even

less after diving). Under normal conditions,

about 0.75 liters of water. This is the amount of

proper hydration should not be a problem for

water that hardly anyone drinks during a flight.

a diver, but we often forget about it.

Many travellers prefer to drink coffee, Coca Dehydration and holidays

Cola or beer during their flight. You have to remember that these drinks do not have the same

On holidays, we dehydrate faster – dry air in air-

hydration effect as water does. Alcohol and

planes, heat, air conditioning – all this means

caffeinated beverages are diuretics. Drinking

that we lose much more water without even

them causes dehydration because they absorb

realizing it.

water from cells and increase urine production.

As a result, a diver arrives at his destination in

For example, when you fly on a plane, it is rec-

a state of light dehydration.

ommended to drink 240 ml of water per each hour of flight. Thus a person traveling from Eng-

The most attractive dive sites for most divers

land to Egypt should drink 1.2 liters of water to

are those with warm water, where there are

maintain adequate hydration. For comparison,

beautiful coral reefs and colourful fish. These

someone who flies from Italy to Egypt will need

places mean a warm, sunny and sometimes hu-

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

61

mid climate. It is quite clear that in such places

often be seen with the naked eye. Salt has the

you sweat and when you sweat, you lose water.

ability to absorb and maintain water molecules.

And if you do not replenish its level, you get

This means that it will absorb moisture from

dehydrated.

the skin, which later will evaporate due to exposure to the sun and wind, increasing the effect

If you get sunburn, your body will lose water

of dehydration.

even faster. The burned skin becomes red and hot (sometimes pain occurs), and the body re-

Dehydration and diving

acts to it by sending water to the skin. Solar heat and wind cause the sweat to evaporate and even

There are three things particularly related to

more water is lost in this way.

diving, which by themselves increase dehydration: sweating, diuresis caused by immersion

At elevated temperatures, we like to be exposed

(increased urine output) and breathing com-

to the wind. And as most of the dives are con-

pressed air.

ducted from the boat, you will have the oppor-

62

tunity to feel the wind on the skin and this is

A diving suit allows you to keep warm during

a refreshing feeling. But in fact the wind or move-

a dive, but also does not let your body cool. So

ment of air resulting from the boat movement

if you are already in a climate where you sweat

on the water) will accelerate the evaporation of

wearing only a t-shirt, imagine how much you

sweat, increasing the degree of dehydration.

will sweat under a diving suit.

Getting out of salt water, it will evaporate and

During a dive, the increased ambient pressure

leave salt crystals on the diver's skin. This can

and cool water will cause narrowing of the blood

vessels in the limbs and increase the amount of

be dependent on the intake of certain medica-

blood circulating in the trunk (heart, lungs and

tions. Also, a reduced amount of urine or lack of

large blood vessels) to keep the body warm. This

it may mean that you are dehydrated, but a large

increased volume of blood is recognized by the

amount of urine does not necessarily mean that

body as an excess of water. The kidneys react by

you are well hydrated.

producing more urine (meaning the loss of water and salt). This is also the reason why divers

Most cases of dehydration are mild and can be

have a need to urinate while diving or immedi-

easily cured by drinking more water. Ryhydra-

ately after diving. This is referred to as diuresis

tion salts or isotonic drinks can also be used

due to immersion.

as an addition to water because they better replenish salts and electrolytes. But if there are

Another cause of water loss during the dive is the

symptoms of severe dehydration, medical help

air we breathe. Same as on a plane, the air in the

is needed.

diving cylinder is dry, and as we already know, we lose more water to moisturize the dry air. If

How to avoid dehydration?

we add that due to the lower water temperature, our lungs must work harder to warm up the air,

It is much easier to avoid dehydration than to

the loss of water is even more significant.

cure this condition! ●● after a dive, rinse the whole body with

How do you know that you are dehydrated and what can you do?

fresh water ●● put on a diving suit just before entering the water

Essentially, the color of urine is a good indicator.

●● avoid alcohol and drinks with caffeine

Urine should be clear or slightly yellow in color.

●● protect yourself from too much sun expo-

The darker color of the urine usually means you

sure (sunburns)

are dehydrated, but the color of the urine may

Symptoms of dehydration include

The condition of serious dehydration

●●

Thirst (that means you should drink

●●

Strong fatigue – weakness

not only when you feel thirsty, be-

●●

Strong thirst and very dry mouth

cause thirst means you are already

●●

Sunken eyes and / or no tears

a bit dehydrated)

●●

Not urinating for eight hours

●●

Dizziness

●●

Dry skin that slowly returns to normal

●●

Headache

●●

Muscle contractions

●●

Fast heartbeat, weak pulse

●●

Fatigue

●●

Fast breaths

●●

Dry mouth

●●

Hypotension (low blood pressure)

●●

Dark-coloured urine

●●

Irritation and confusion

●●

Decreased urine output

●●

Low level of consciousness

when it is pinched

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

63

But the easiest way is to drink a lot of water. We

How much you should drink depends on many

advise you to drink a glass of water every 15–20

factors, but drinking at least two additional liters

minutes. This way of drinking will allow you to hy-

of water (in addition to what you normally drink

drate tissues and consequently avoid problems

during the day) will allow you to be well-hydrat-

with gas exchange, which can lead to the for-

ed. You can also eat foods that contain a lot of

mation of bubbles and decompression sickness.

water, such as fruits and vegetables.

DAN Europe has conducted studies on surface tension. Surface tension is a significant force that affects the properties of many substances, including fluids and tissues in the body. Very small bubbles have very high surface tension, and larger ones – smaller surface tension. The low surface tension allows a bubble to grow faster and with less resistance. A high surface tension value limits the growth rate of a bubble and may even cause it to disappear.

Source: www.daneurope.org; www.alertdiver.eu Report published March 4, 2008, "Preventive effect on pre-dive hydration on bubble formation in divers" E Gempp, JE Blatteau, JM Pontier, C Balestra, P Louge Divers Alert Network "More water, less bubbles"

64

Enjoy diving with peace of mind, worldwide, all year round

DIVING SAFETY SINCE1983 PHOTO BY MARCELLO DI FRANCESCO

Worldwide 24/7 Emergency Assistance

Exclusive access to Diving Insurance Plans

Medical Advice & Specialist Referrals

Participation in Diving Medical Research Programs

First Aid Courses

DANEUROPE.ORG

wrecks

66

Bristol Beaufighter Malta

Text Tomasz jeżewski

Photos Grzegorz Świątnicki

Some interesting facts! An interesting airplane model – being an upgrade of earlier models; interesting because of the history of this particular specimen, and interesting as a wreck of an airplane: a unique one among those desired by divers.

In general, divers most appreciate these wrecks that are well preserved. Plus they should be big – big enough to make it possible for a diver to see the interior. Or these that look like they're still sailing. These almost complete. Wrecks-ruins are less interesting, sometimes even boring, especially wrecks of airplanes, as you can neither get inside nor swim around for hours for they are so small…

But it's not the case with this one! This one, in my opinion, is interesting not because of its "perfect" condition, but because of the circumstances in which it can be visited.

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

67

If

we go down to the wreck itself, lying on a flat

Various modifications leading finally to this mod-

sandy bottom at a depth of approx. 40 m

el (Bristol Beaufighter is the Bristol Beaufort

and we start to view it in a "classic way", we can

upgrade, which was based on the experience

conclude that indeed there is nothing special

and elements of Bristol Blenheim…) meeting

about it… There is no cabin which sank into the

the expected parameters included the need

bottom. Actually, you do not even know if it is

to push both engines forward and shorten the

still there… There are parts of engines left and

nose of the plane. As a result – in a completely

a part of the undercarriage. Some remnants of

different way than it used to be – engines and

bent propellers… The remains of the frame of

propellers came before the nose of the machine.

the wings… Some of the frames and stringers

A strange airplane it was then. And a strange

and other scrap metal in the place where the

wreck it is now.

fuselage used to be… And an empty space up

68

to what is left of the tail… It seems that the nose

This strange construction made the machines

of the machine is missing, but when we find out

odd to pilot. In case of a failure of one of the

how this airplane looked complete, it turns out

engines, the inconvenience was even greater –

that there was not much of this nose even be-

so huge that, as the saying goes, most pilots of

fore the accident.

this machine died trying to land with one engine

damaged. Apparently, it was enough to get close to Mother Earth inadvertently (or purposely) and increase rapidly the power of the still operating engine when the airplane did a half-barrel roll ending the flight on its back.

The plane after such a "landing" looked… just as our wreck – for we need to mention that the wreck of this strange plane lies on its back. It looks as if it had tried to land on a flat sandy bottom with one engine damaged. One engine still has its propeller and on the other engine, we notice the propeller is missing. The undercarriage is retracted and set in landing position. The underside of the airplane is visible, and the cabin is driven into the sandy runway… Just the 40 m of water on the runway is a bit out of place…

In descriptions of the accident of this particular airplane, we can find information about the actual cause of the crash being engine failure, but the pilots managed to land on the sea and were rescued. But is it possible that the description of the accident is not true and that the airplane landed on the sandy runway when there was no water on it yet? What other reason might be there for retracting the undercarriage?… Strange…

Even more interestingly – more strangely and more unusually as befits a strange plane – this wreck looks viewed from a smaller depth (lower height?…). Hanging in the depths, hovering over this wreck and viewing it through translucent water, at some point we have the impression that … we look up, into the sky! After all, we see the "shadow" of a complete plane, as if we were looking from the ground at the approaching machine, ready for landing. The whole silhouette of the plane is beautifully outlined. You can see the engine nacelles protruding in front of the nose of the machine, you can see the undercarriage retracted and prepared for landing, you can see the tail, which is still in place, you can see the outline of the wings. Bubbles, flicker-

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

69

ing at the surface of the sea, released by scuba divers around the wreck look like remnants of fuel thrown away by the plane before landing and falling to the surface of the earth. The impression is incredible! The depth just below the surface of the sea is probably the best place to view the wreck.

The fugitive airplane "flying over the head" of the observer – this is probably the best way to "explore" this strange wreck.

Description of the Bristol Beaufighter airplane: https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bristol_Beaufighter Information about the wreck and history of this particular airplane and the description of the accident (Eng): https://www.maritieme-archeologie.be/wreck.aspx?130794

70

Bristol Beaufighter Mk X – heavy long-range

fighter aircraft. Strike aircraft and torpedo bomber. manufacturer – Bristol Aeroplane Company Engines – 2 x Bristol Hercules XVII,

14-cylinder, radial Dimensions

●●

wingspan: 17.65 m

●●

length: 12.5 m

●●

height: 4.84 m

●●

supporting surface: 19.79 m²

Mass

●●

empty aircraft mass: 7080 kg

●●

take-off mass: 11540 kg

Performance

●●

maximum speed: 512 km/h on the ceiling of 3048 m

●●

the rate of climb: 489 m/min

●●

ceiling: 5800 km

●●

range: 2816 km

Beaufighter TF Mk.X

Beaufighter Mk.I(F)

Beaufighter Mk.II(F)

Metres Feet

Source: Wikipedia

Beaufighter Mk.V

Source: Wikimedia Commons

Novelty soon in Poland...

Source: Wikimedia Commons

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

71

sunken secrets

The terrible hours Text mateusz popek

It is May 1939, Jacques Cousteau reinvents fins and a diving mask. Meanwhile, thousands of kilometres away from France, in the Atlantic Ocean near New Hampshire, at the depth of almost 80 meters underwater, a rescue action takes place, which seems impressive even nowadays. During just 4 dives a team of divers saved 33 crew members of a sunken submarine. This action went down in history. But let's start from the beginning.

Source: Wikipedia

O

72

Source: Wikipedia

n May 23, 1939, the newly built US Navy sub-

ately when the ship fell down to a depth of 74 me-

marine, USS Squalus, set off for its fifteenth

ters. A total of 33 mariners, who managed to hide

trial voyage. Unfortunately, during the immer-

in an isolated compartment, survived. In the in-

sion process, because of the open hatchways

credible cold, without food, in complete darkness

water flooded the submarine and caused it sunk

and with ever lower oxygen concentration, they

instantly. 26 crew members died almost immedi-

could only pray for someone to find them.

Source: Wikipedia perfectdiver No. 1/2018

73

Source: Wikipedia

Lack of contact with USS Squalus triggered

the survivors out to the surface. In 1939, Mom-

a quick search action. The sister ship, USS Scul-

sen already noticed the phenomenon of nitro-

pin, was designated for this operation. Fortu-

gen narcosis and tested gases with the addition

nately, within a dozen or so hours it was possible

of helium.

to locate a submerged submarine and even, to a very limited extent, communicate with the sur-

When the USS Squalus went down, for the Navy

vivors. At this point, the race against time began,

it became clear that only Charles Momsen and

and the only person who could win this battle

his team could help mariners trapped at the bot-

was Charles B. Momsen called "the Swede".

tom of the ocean. The USS Falcon was specially prepared as a base for the rescuers. After taking

74

Momsen was a pioneer in water rescue and an

the position, the divers started preparations to

inventor. Unfortunately, he was not very pop-

connect the diving bell to the submarine to get

ular in the navy and his attempts to introduce

the survivors out. When the divers worked with

his projects into use were occupied with many

cylinders filled with air, the nitrogen narcosis

sacrifices. It was hard for him that later the res-

occurred. At this depth this caused great diffi-

cue bell invented by the Swede was named af-

culties. Then Momsen decided to use a mixture

ter another officer. The Swede designed, built

with the addition of helium, which until then had

and tested all his inventions on his own body,

still been in the testing phase. The use of the

starting from the so-called "Momsen’s lungs",

new gas gave an amazing effect. The minds of

which were nothing more than a small under-

the divers became clear, and the rescue oper-

water rebreather, allowing for evacuation even

ation began to move forward dynamically. The

from the depth of 60m. Another invention was

diving bell was delivered and attached to the

the already mentioned diving bell, which could

wreck. After completing just 4 dives, 33 mariners

be attached to a submerged submarine to get

trapped in the wreck were saved.

Source: Wikipedia

Source: Wikipedia

However, as it turned out, this action alone

marines, who until that day had been convinced

was not the end of the operation involving the

that sinking always ends in death … they saw

USS Squalus wreck. The Navy decided that the

some hope for themselves.

sunken submarine should be lifted. For the next 50 days, the divers dragged the ropes un-

This action was described in detail in Peter

der the wreck and installed pontoons to try to

Mass's book "The terrible hours". It also became

lift the wreck on July 13, 1939. Unfortunately,

the inspiration for the film "Submerged", shot in

the air that entered the bow caused the wreck

2001, directed by James Keach. The role of Mom-

to jump to the surface and then it sank once

sen was played by Sam Neil. Even youtube in-

again. It took another 20 days to fix this error.

cludes a lot of archival footage and documentary

Then it was finally lifted and towed to a dry dock

films about this action. This is a story I strongly

in Portsmouth. Still, this is not the end of story,

recommend you to explore in more detail.

because Squalus was renovated and returned to service, fighting on the front until the end of World War II. This is a story about imprisoned sailors and their ship, but the most amazing are individual, courageous people who took up the challenge which until then had been impossible to complete. It was only thanks to Momsen's open mind and the courage of his divers that the mariners were saved. 628 safe dives were carried out on the wreck. Four divers from the Swede team: Chief Machinist's Mate Badders, Chief Boatswain's Mate Orson L. Crandall, Chief Metalsmith James H. McDonald, and Chief Torpedomanman John Mihalowski, were awarded the U.S. Medal of Honour. They gave hope to the crews of subSource: Wikipedia

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

75

technically

molnár jános Text irena kosowska

Photos cezary czaro Abramowski

As a little girl, I dreamed of being a princess. The most genuine one, such as in fairy tales – with a beautiful crown and a palace covered with sparkling magical dust…

Finally, I grew up and these dreams faded away somewhere, long forgotten… Until I entered a place that brought all the childhood visions back – including sparkling passages and almost unreal spaces covered with crystals…

In a magic place I was: The Molnár János Cave.

76

O

ver a hundred years ago the first hydrothermal caves were discovered in the vicinity

of the Rózsadomb (Budapest). In the past century, there were about 50–60 caves and 50 cave markings. In Rózsadomb the oldest known rock comes from the Upper Triassic period. In the

Located in the centre of the Pannonian basin, one of the hottest basins in Europe, Hungary has long

studied area there are two Triassic formations:

been famous for its hot springs

Main Dolomite (Fődolomit), a solid dolomite for-

and a multitude of underground

mation and Mátyáshegyi formation, consisting

formations. Molnár János cave,

of limestone and dolomite. Other formations existing there include Paleogene and Quaternary rock formations. The most important among the new formations is a few tens of meters thick Szépvölgyi limestone layer from the Upper Eo-

an active thermokarastic cave, belonging to the karst hills of Buda, lies beneath the densely populated district of Budapest. Its huge

cene. The caves located in the Rózsadomb area

passages are almost completely

were carved mainly in this type of rock. In this

filled with warm water. Only the

area, Szépvölgyi limestone is usually covered by

upper part of its largest known

Buda Marl formation (Upper Eocene – Lower Oligocene). It contains a variable, but always signif-

chamber rises above the water level.

icant, clay content, and therefore it is not easily transformed into karst formation. However, it is

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

77

in this layer that there are some cave passages

gate in the very middle of a busy street, just to

and the Molnár János cave itself.

dive into a completely different world.

The Molnár János cave is located under the ex-

As soon as we had crossed the Molnár János

clusive district of Budapest. It is considered the

gate, we were briefed on the incredibly neat ar-

only active, "living" cave in the Buda caves sys-

rangement and logistics of the very place. The

tem. This cave, like other caves in its surround-

lecture halls, sanitary facilities, well-organized

ings, originates from thermal karst formation

compressor room and the logistics of the very

processes and was generated by hot springs.

descent into the water left us deeply impressed.

This is a fairly unique situation that cave corri-

78

dors lie under the highly urbanized area of the

To dive in Molnár, you must meet a number of

city being the capital of Hungary. We were im-

requirements – above all, you need to book the

mensely impressed when we drove through the

date, which in high season is not easy at all. You

city centre, right down to a pretty inconspicuous

need to have the certification to use each item of

equipment used for diving (besides the obvious cave diving certification, for example, the drysuit certification), valid medical examination and diving insurance, DAN Silver minimum (or other acknowledged insurance covering cave diving). In the beginning, after arrival and passing

The cave was named after János Molnár, a pharmacist who for the first time suggested the existence of a cave that belongs to the same

through a corridor in which the temperatures

water system as the nearby Malom pond. The

are high, despite the negative temperatures

pond was displaced in the 13th century to supply

outside, each diver has a place assigned and

water mills in the area. János Molnár after his

receives several forms to fill in. In addition to the above-mentioned requirements, which we need to document by leaving certificates for the time of diving, we also sign a whole bunch of statements on the safety of diving, risk, health, hazard awareness, etc. – all of it in both, Hun-

research suggested that the water flows into the pond through the undiscovered channel.

Later, the advances in diving techniques enabled the exploration of the hidden niche. Rapid exploration began in the 70' of the 20th century.

garian and English.

When the formal requirements are fulfilled, the

Since the level of water in the cave exceeds the

guides are assigned (it is not possible to dive by

Danube level (about 95 m ASL in Budapest) just

yourself) and a briefing about the very place and

a few meters, the deepest parts of the cave are

diving schedule takes place. We learned, among

located at sea level. Still evolving, active cave is

other things, that most of the vast cave system

the deepest and newest member of the Buda

is under water, reaching a maximum explored

thermokarst system. The temperature of the

depth of 100 m, and the length of the known

water in the known passages ranges from 17 to

sections reaches almost 6 km. The outlet of the

27°C. The upper sections are surrounded by

cave is about 200 m away from the Danube.

the upper layer of Eocene Buda Marl formation,

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

79

which is characterized by a variable, but signifi-

go on an expedition – if you want to fill it, you

cant, carbonate content. In contrast to the large

will get another full bottle for the same price,

caves in the Buda Hills, the corridors of Molnár

without having to wait for your own (you do not

János caver are still subject to corrosion. Famous

have to take it at all).

locations of clusters of barite and calcite are older and independent from cave generation.

After immersion, we deposit the decompression gases on an impressive decobar and we go along

It is these properties of the cave, the clusters

the fixed ropes to the planned underwater trip.

of barite and calcite, that were to carry us

The entire system of routes available for divers

over to a fairytale world. But let’s start from

is permanently roped with a steel rope of 9 mm

the beginning.

diameter, anchored in rocks, and marked. There is no need (or no possibility when using stand-

After dividing us into diving groups and appoint-

ard cave markers) to use own ropes or markings.

ing our guides, we got ready for diving. What's

80

important, Molnár strictly follows the predive

Warm water, perfect clarity, visibility up to

check procedures performed under the "dicta-

20 meters, spaces as huge as your flashlight can

tion" of the guide, and conservative gas manage-

reach… an amazing feeling of being in a place

ment: an additional stage can be borrowed at

which, despite being so close to the big city (lying

the price of filling a cylinder. This means that you

just below it), is so unique. Standard diving lasts

do not have to take your own stage when you

up to 1.5 hours, during which we traverse the

corridors made of very different types of rocks,

bility is also being studied all the time and new

of various structure, from huge chambers to nar-

underground connections are sought.

rowings, from completely dark places to… well, here we go back to fairy tales and princesses.

An expedition to Molnár can be organized by an-

The first time I turned the flashlight towards the

yone certified to perform cave dives in confined

wall that sparked with thousands of flickering

spaces. The basic routes have an average depth

dots, I began to wonder if my mind was not trick-

of 20–30 meters; for deeper routes, a separate

ing me. But as it happened again and again…

reservation is required. All details, including the

Passages, walls, and corridors were covered with

price list, are available on the website of the cave

genuine crystals! A phenomenon was so abso-

operator – MJ Cave http://www.mjcave.hu/en.

lutely fascinating and amazing that I needed quite a time to shake off the first impression…

In terms of accommodation, popular portals

fortunately, not only me, and the guide accus-

aggregating accommodation offers will come in

tomed to such reactions turned around and

handy with reasonable prices. After dives, which

waited until we got enough of the sight. Dur-

end at the latest at 4 p.m., it is worth going to the

ing the four dives performed in Molnár, I got

Old Town, which, lit up at night, completes the

to know a whole spectrum of new experiences,

impressions of the Hungarian adventure.

comparable to experiencing real art. When we arrived at the very end of the rope, seeing that

http://www.mjcave.hu/en

the system of corridors goes further but is still

Radon as a natural tracer for underwater cave exploration, Katalin Csondor, Anita Eross, Akos Horvath, Denes Szieberth, Journal of Environmental Radioactivity, journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/jenvrad

only accessible to researchers, I felt both excitement and some insufficiency. But what I remember best to this day are crystals. Because that very corridor, that passage sparkling – as I later learned – with barite and calcite, inspired me to

Contributions of geophysical techniques to the exploration of the Molnár János Cave (Budapest, Hungary), Gergely Sururányi, Endre Dombrádi, Szabolcs Leél-Őssy, Acta Carsologica 39/3, Postojna 2010

look for more information about the genesis of the Molnár cave. Hence this article today.

I would like to give very special thanks to all Molnár János Cave Team with the particular reference to

The system of Molnár János corridors is the sub-

Dénes Szieberth from the Department of Inorganic

ject of numerous studies by both geologists, ge-

and Analytical Chemistry, Budapest University of

ophysicists, and biologists – over the years of research, four completely new species of crea-

Technology and Economics, for all support, including access to Molnár János research articles.

Thank you!

tures were discovered there. The cave's varia-

price list of dives in euro Guided diving

1 person

2 people

3 people+

1 diving 50–70 min, max 40 meters

70

60/person

50/person

1 diving 90–150 min, max 40 meters

140

85/person

50/person + 70/group

1 diving 90–150 min, max 90 meters

170

100/person

50/person + 100/group

Cave intro dive 50 min

60

60/person

60/person

Source: http://www.mjcave.hu/en/diving

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

81

n at u r e

82

Skuas the sea robbers

Text and photos wojciech jarosz

In the world of birds, just like in the cinema, you can observe chases, robberies, thefts and inextricably related to them silent dramas of the victims. The perpetrators of these criminal acts (if we apply human civil codes and norms of social conduct to these birds) are real villains – the skuas. And as befits real villains, the skuas are of sturdy built and strong, neither missing the dark elegance, which brings them closer to GoodFellas than the Joker (speaking about the movies in question), nor intelligence of which they have abundance.

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

83

M

any skuas actually practice kleptoparasit-

the cougar’s prey. Sometimes victims become

ism, which means that they feed at the ex-

aggressors, as in the case of gulls and terns that

pense of other birds (gulls, terns, puffins, auks,

give their own pray to skuas just to steal food lat-

and even gannets) forcing them to give their

er from other birds, representatives of their own

food to them. Sometimes they can be quite in-

species included. Even more interesting is the

trusive, nudging or pecking birds returning from

case of hyenas and lions, which are able to steal

the hunt to their nests. These, unable to pro-

food from each other, and which party is the

tect themselves and escape from the attacker

victim in particular situation depends to a large

(as skuas fly fast enough not to allow the victim

extent on the determination and strength of

to escape at a speed up to 50 km/h) finally give

these two groups of carnivores.

away what they have hunted, trying to save their own skin.

Going back to the skuas, a trace of parasitic interspecies relationship has been embedded in

84

Such a way of acquiring food, by stealing it from

the name of one of the species, parasitic jaeger,

other animals, is not unusual in nature. Most

also called so after the Latin name Stercorarius

predators practice such behaviour, especially

parasiticus. In many languages, the connection

when they are bigger and stronger than the vic-

with the Latin name is strong, for example in the

tim – after all, a bigger one can always do more.

French it is Labbe parasite, in English Parasitic

There are, however, some cases known, when

jaeger, in Spanish Págalo parásito. The etymol-

bigger animals give in to smaller creatures, like

ogy of the Latin generic name is also associated

a cougar getting out of the way, for obvious rea-

with the way of obtaining food and this geneal-

sons, of a small skunk which come to feed on

ogy seems to be even less appealing. Well, Ster-

corarius means ‘from dung’ or ‘from manure’, which is associated with the old conviction that what appears in the air as a result of the thuggish attacks of the skuas is not the returned food but the droppings of the attacked bird.

To bring the issue of parasitism to an end, it should be added that the skuas can also hunt (for fish, birds and rodents) and do not hold the carrion in contempt. The way the birds get their food depends mainly on the environment, i.e. their habitat, the season, and is largely associated with particular species of the skuas. And here the problems begin, as nobody exactly knows how many species of skuas there are. Today, seven species are specified most often, but in the past the number of Stercorarius reached as many as 10 separate species (some of them are currently treated as subspecies). It is possible that in the future the skuas will be divided into two separate genera (a need reported by some ornithologists in specialistic publications), where one genus would include big, brown birds called skuas (the great skua, the brown skua, the Chilean skua and the south polar skua), and the other – those with a softer and more diverse colouration (the already mentioned parasitic jaeger, as well as pomarine jaeger and long-tailed jaeger). There are plenty of taxonomic doubts but it seems that there is no point of discussing them in this article.

As a curiosity it can be added that while studying the issues of belonging a specific genre to a higher taxon, what is taken into account, in addition to many other things, is the species composition of the parasitic fauna existing mainly in feathers (specifically – composition of mites).

Parasites again…

Where can you come across the skuas? In many locations around the world, but basically always in areas close to the sea (apart from occasional visits to the inland of birds fleeing the storm, and

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

85

who knows, maybe also those extremely curious

tipodes – in New Zealand, and also in Antarctica

ones?). Paleontological evidence indicates that

and South America. A cosmopolitan indeed! In

these birds come from the northern hemisphere

Europe you can also come across the parasitic,

of our globe but today we meet them both on

long-tailed and pomarine jaegers, usually in the

the Arctic and Antarctic site of the globe. What's

northern parts of the continent, and at the time

more, some birds can be found on both sides

of migration they appear in more southern lo-

of the equator, the best example of which is the

cations – even in the Baltic Sea.

south polar skua nesting, in accordance with its name, on the coasts of Antarctica and nearby

When the skuas finish their breeding period, and

islands, and wandering to wintering habitats

this usually coincides with the time of breed-

located on the North Pacific or North-Western

ing of the bird species usually attacked by the

Atlantic. Sometimes, in terms of the length of mi-

skuas, they turn into the high-seas birds. Then

gration, it can be compared to the Arctic tern, un-

they can be seen by the crews of the yachts and

matched in this context. The skuas are regarded

ships in the seas and oceans, far away from the

as the vertebrates found the closest to the South

nearest land.

Pole, which confirms their aerial capabilities. The

86

people of Europe can admire the great skuas

To recognize the skuas, however, you need to

in Norway, Iceland, the Faroe Islands, Shetland

know how they look like and how to distinguish

Islands or Northern Scotland but, similar to the

them from other birds. Well, these are medi-

south polar skua, the skua (as the great skua is

um-sized birds, resembling the type of the build

often abbreviated) can also be seen on the an-

of some larger species of seagulls. However, the

details of the build leave no illusions: you can't

body. On the underside they are rather fair – of

confuse a skua with any seagull. Of course, be-

cream colour. Characteristic for these species

tween the largest of skuas: the great skua and

is also the more or less significant elongation

the south polar skua, and the smallest one, long-

of the central rectrices i.e. tail feathers (hence

tailed jaeger, there is a significant difference in

the generic names in Polish come from). This

weight, respectively 1.3 kg and 300 g, but most

feature, along with the colour, makes it easy to

of the features of their build is common for all

identify the species of the skua being observed.

species of that genus. They have a distinctive, prominent, hooked beak, bent at the end, black in colour. The same colour are legs of the skuas equipped with webbing and robust claws. The

Most skuas live for several years on average, but there

wings are averagely wide and not too long. Col-

is a description of the

ours are different and depend on the species.

bird, which was banded as

The larger skuas present different shades of

the nestling in the years

brown in their feathers with a small touch of white on their speculum feathers. According to one of the theories, this is to be an identity mark

1968–1970, and in the year 2015 was steel breeding.

for the bird's brethren in order not to force food from a bird with such a sign. Smaller skuas: par-

The interesting thing is that the inside of the

asitic, long-tailed and pomarine jaegers are also

birds is well-developed (especially the muscles

of dark colour, but only on the top part of the

moving the wings); also there is an exceptional-

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

87

ly large number of mitochondria in the skeletal

again start breeding. Usually in the same place,

muscle fibre – the intracellular power plants with

although there are also observations refuting

the relevant enzymes needed for smooth imple-

thesis about the invariability of the nest's loca-

mentation of production processes of energy (or

tion. Such a cycle can be repeated many times,

actually – transformation). It all makes the skuas

because after reaching sexual maturity at the age

very efficient flyers. Due to distant and long-last-

of several years (usually 5–8 years) the skuas still

ing flights over the salty waters, the skuas have

have a lot of life ahead of them. Most skuas live

developed salt glands, which serve as the on-

for several years on average, but there is a de-

board desalinator. Thanks to this adaptation

scription of the bird, which was banded as the

the birds can drink sea water when there is no

nestling in the years 1968–1970, and in the year

access to fresh water.

2015 was steel breeding. As for a 45-year-old, this south polar skua looked quite well. After laying

88

Long journeys end when they need to repro-

one or two eggs in a hollow in the ground (skuas

duce. And just like in other spheres of their life

do not build fancy constructions), the couple pro-

we perceive skuas as hooligans, we can admire

tect their nest. These birds are able to effectively

their faithfulness in the male-female relations

drive away bigger animals lurking on their eggs.

(let’s not get limited if we want to anthropomor-

While observing such behaviour, it was noted

phize). Yes, the skuas are monogamous and after

that the brown skua can recognize human face.

long periods of wandering they can meet with-

Investigators, who had approached the nest to

out seeing each other for long months and once

make measurements of eggs or chicks, were rec-

ognized and attacked by the skuas (even after

When during your stay in the marine coasts you

clothes were changed), while people not seen

will be fortunate to see a dark bird resembling

previously could move freely in the vicinity the

a large seagull and attacking other birds, you

nest, not disturbed by birds. This is one of the

will probably be looking at skuas – so stay alert!

examples of great cleverness of the skuas.

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

89

curiosities

Hańcza the deepest lake in poland

Text Michał Smaga

Photos Wojciech Zgoła

Somewhere far away from the centre of Poland and city life, protected by serpentines of roads, lies the deepest Polish lake – Hańcza. It covers a deep postglacial tunnel valley wedged between the hills, surrounded by forests and meadows, blending into the landscape of the region. Our goal is Błaskowizna, a small village on the eastern shore of the lake.

H

ere you can find all the diving bases and

choose from. The first, more intimate, is locat-

points where you can enter the water. Com-

ed next to one of the bays. Its downside, or

ing here for the first time, it is worth to use the

a big plus, depending on a point of view, is the

satellite navigation, especially on the last part

lack of possibility to fill the cylinder. The other

of the route. This will reduce to a minimum the

is a base with facilities including compressors

unexpected sightseeing tour of the beautiful, by

and the bank. Its advantage, or disadvantage, is

the way, landscapes of the Suwalki region.

a large number of places of accommodation. In addition to the aforementioned bases, we can

90

By the lake

find here two more points, where we can fill the

When we are on the spot, we face the first di-

cylinders with various gases, as well as several

lemma: where to stay? We have two bases to

agritourism farms.

Where to dive?

When we are already accommodated, assembled equipment is waiting for our entry into the water, it’s time to choose the destination. Here, unfortunately, the choice is limited. Because of its location within the boundaries of the Suwałki Landscape Park, the whole lake is included in the nature reserve and only a part of the eastern shore of the lake and its depth is made available for diving. Along one kilometre we have at our disposal three car parks with convenient The dilemma of choosing the accommodation

descents to the water, and benches where you

will not always affect us in the same way. De-

can lay out the equipment. One could begin

pending on the season, we should expect bases

to complain about the length of the accessible

bursting at the seams in summer, or almost emp-

shore, because what is one kilometre in relation

ty in winter. It is easier to find accommodation in

to twelve kilometres of the lake's circumference?

summer: if we do not book earlier a place to stay,

Fortunately, however, these restrictions have

we can always stay in a tent or at agritourism

also some good sides. In the lake, we will not

farm. It’s wiser not to count on a free accommo-

find almost any artificially sunken attractions,

dation in the base. Apart from the summer sea-

creating sometimes underwater waste dumps

son, the beds are always available, although even

of dubious aesthetic qualities. We can only see

then prior telephone arrangement is required.

what the glacier left behind: steeply descending

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

91

rocky slopes and large boulders forming struc-

counter three dugouts. These boats are archae-

tures reminiscent of mountain screes. But let’s

ological monuments and as such are subject to

start from the beginning.

protection – it is forbidden to touch them. This is one of the few places in Europe where you

92

The car park closest to the village, called The

can see such objects. Another variant of the

first car park offers us a gently descending

route you can choose at the First car park is to

(as for the local conditions) bottom along with

head north along the shore of the lake. After

the sizable littoral zone. Diving deeper into the

swimming for a few minutes in this direction, at

lake, at around thirtieth metre, we can find a

a depth of 14 m, we can meet the most famous

boat resting on the bottom. Continuing the way

wall in Poland. It spreads uninterruptedly for

into the depth, at around fortieth metre, we en-

about 300 m, changing from time to time the

depth of the base and the top. In one place it is

views there; we will have to be satisfied with the

interrupted by a scree of loose rock material and

view of the descending line. Divers are attracted

gravel. This is a sign that we have reached the

here by the opportunity to see the three-digit

Second car park. Here the deepest place varies

depth readout on their computer display. The

between 25 and 40 m.

depth, reported on the Internet, varies from 105 to 111 m and, unfortunately, is not con-

The second car park is a place, right in the mid-

firmed among the divers. Visitors to the bottom

dle of the lake, providing the most thrills to the

agree that it is 103 m.

lovers of the depth. You can descend here as far as 50 m or even deeper in a very short time,

When to dive?

plunging along a strongly inclined slope. The

We already know almost everything to be able

slope itself is also impressive, with different sizes

to plan a successful diving trip. Only one piece of

of disarrayed boulders and rock waste creating

information is missing – that about the best visi-

an almost lunar landscape.

bility. The issue is a bit problematic. The simplest way would be to say: the best conditions will be

Diving farther along the shore, we will finally

between autumn and spring turnovers. During

reach the Third car park. Here the bottom is

this time, the visibility often exceeds 20 m. Un-

the mildest, and the littoral zone the largest.

fortunately, this does not solve the problem of

An additional advantage is the presence of the

divers who like warm temperatures or those

platform at the bottom which allows carrying

who dive in foam suits. They will have to accept

out some exercise. There are also clay walls

the visibility limited sometimes up to two meters

not as spectacular as those next to previous car

in the summer months. Fortunately, visibility

parks, but also charming. Due to the delicacy of

gets better as the depth increases. At around

the material forming the walls, they should not

the 20th metre, it rarely falls below 10 m.

be touched.

Knowing when to come to the lake and what The last place where we can dive is the depth

to see there, we can look for attractions on the

of the lake. We should not expect any beautiful

surface. Here, depending on the selected sea-

perfectdiver No. 1/2018

93

Culinary Delights

son, we have different options for exploring the

Describing the advantages of the region we

area: from hiking, cycling, to cross-country ski-

cannot forget to mention the local culinary spe-

ing and sleigh parties. For those preferring more

cialties. The most famous is "sękacz" – a cake

lazy forms of leisure, a public beach, recently

baked over an open fire. Being there, you can-

opened, is available.

not forget to try cepelinai or potato cake. A less known, but equally recommended product is

Depending on the selected season, the sur-

produced in a traditional way cheese, which you

rounding lakes will be wrapped up in different

can buy from the local farmers.

robes: starting from the hills hidden under the snow and, if we are lucky, the ice-covered lake,

We slowly get to the end of our trip to Hańcza

through the juicy green of grasses and forests,

Lake. We leave behind the charms of this place,

ending with full of colours, sometimes foggy au-

where the city tumult has not reached yet,

tumn hills.

a place so different from foreign diving resorts, a bit wild and still undiscovered.

info błaskowizna on hańcza lake

Postal Code: 16-404 GPS Location: 52.245652 and 22.801854 Directions: to Suwalki along the S61 route and further to Błaskowizna, north-west direction accommodation

Słowikowski Tadeusz Agroturism farm (compressor – air only) Błaskowizna 24, 24A, 16-404 Jeleniewo +48 87 568 34 4 8, +48 512 299 422 http://www.suwalszczyzna.com.pl/blaskowizna24 Sienkiewiczówka Błaskowizna 3A, 16-404 Błaskowizna +48 87 562 17 94, +48 500 021 272 http://www.suwalszczyzna.com.pl/sienkiewiczowka

94

Teresa and Ignacy Andruczyk Błaskowizna 4, 16-404 Jeleniewo +48 87 568 34 45, +48 518 896 934 http://www.blaskowizna4.suwalszczyzna.com.pl Pokoje nad Hańczą – Anna Kwaterska Błaskowizna 19, 16-404 Jeleniewo +48 604 258 076 http://www.hancza.com Resting places on Hańcza Lake Błaskowizna 1, 16-404 Jeleniewo +48 601 169 922 https://noclegi.pl/hancza2 Gościniec Hańcza (only in summer) Błaskowizna 3A, 16-404 Jeleniewo +48 607 703 673, +48 501 370 889 http://gosciniechancza.pl

diving centres nearby

Diving Centre Banana Divers Błaskowizna 9, 16-404 Jeleniewo +48 502 764 747 bananadivers.pl HańczaTech (nocompressor) Błaskowizna 20, 16-404 Jeleniewo +48 513 028 854; www.hanczatech.pl Ełk Diving Centre Submariner (no accomodation) Błaskowizna 22, 16-404 Błaskowizna, Jeleniewo municipality