Perfect Diver Magazine 13 issue

diving

No. 13 1(13)/2021

january/february

Price 12,50 € Tax included

freediving

passion

knowledge

lanza the bahamas water world

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V-SERIES REGULATORS

[QUALITY | RELIABILITY | SIMPLICITY ] [EN250: 2014 CE1463]

Photo: Michal Sevecek

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the foreword

Wojciech Zgoła

Editor-in-Chief

In the world incredible things are happening. We entered the New Year 2021 and you can go ice diving in many places in Europe. In others, many would like to dive under the ice that is missing.

Others flee to warm countries, risking a 10-day quarantine upon their return. Fortunately, you can still dive! Many of us discover new places closer to home. We also recommend #divelocal.

This is our 3rd year of presence in the air. Perfect Diver magazine slightly changes its editorial composition. We are happy with the presence of Hubert and we are still open to cooperation with practically anyone who wants to contribute something useful and positive.

Some regular advertisers will also be with us in 2021. Greetings to the new ones and we are glad that you have joined our Project and that you officially support Perfect Diver.

The quality of texts and photos will be comparable to last year or even better. We prefer a light pen, a practical approach, a good story and an ecological approach to Nature.

Follow our profile on Facebook. Tell your friends about us and invite them to watch and read our posts together.

The issue 1/2021, which you have on your screens or in your hand, will allow you to forget about the dilemmas and make your longing for diving into a specific plan. Always safe – don't forget that. Better to let go sometimes. This is nothing wrong, on the contrary – it is a responsible attitude. Inside, there is a very interesting article by Krzysztof Dziech about meditation, awareness, exercises – all under water. We also have an article about Lanzarote. Bonito Diving Lanzarote Diving Center invited Perfect Diver to dive. We tell how it was there. Decide for yourself whether it is worth going there. If not, there are a few other suggestions.

At the end, Wojtek A. Filip's very practical look at the diving hat.

Subscription still available – feel free!

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

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ta b l e o f co n t e n t s

40

10

34

travels 10

Lanza

18

Raja Ampat, the last paradise on earth

26

The Bahamas, water world

34

Sardinian tales. Northeast

Archaeology 48

our conversation 40

4

knowledge

Through the lens – Oksana Maksymova

Freediving 46

The Baltic Sea 1000 years ago

FreeSlovenia

51

Northern Diver heated vest

52

Full awareness diving

56

Is it worth participating in wreck and marine diving?

59

"Diving into Darkness: A True Story of Death and Survival".

Review

planet earth 60

Publisher perfect diver wojciech zgoła

What cheeps in the reeds. Little things with moustache

ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo redakcja@perfectdiver.com ISsN 2545-3319

editor in chief

Wojciech Zgoła

underwater archaeology

Mateusz Popek

water sports columnist publicist, photographer marketing

&

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english language translators

Krzysztof Jarzyna Irena Kosowska Bartosz Pszczółkowski Hubert Reiss Agnieszka Gumiela-Pająkowska Arleta Kaźmierczak Reddo Translations Sp. z o.o.

legal care graphic design and composition

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60 printing

tips & curiosities 64

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Clownfish eggs place

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e d i to r i a l t e a m

Wojciech Zgoła

Mateusz Popek

Krzysztof Jarzyna

He often repeats that he travels by diving and that

”My passion, work and life are under water.” He has

He has been passionate about sport since child-

is his motto. In 1985 he obtained a yacht sailor's

been diving since 2009. Since 2008, he's walking

hood, including various disciplines related to wa-

license, and only in 2006 began to dive. In the fol-

in caves. Underwater archeologist by education.

ter. He has graduated in journalism professionally

lowing years he improved his skills by obtaining

He participated in numerous projects in Poland

and also because of that he likes to talk to people

the Dive Master degree. He completed nearly

and abroad. He has been engaged in professional

and observe them. They engage in various activi-

650 dives in various climatic conditions. Since

diving since 2011. In 2013 he obtained the qual-

ties as an amateur. Recently, he is more and more

2007, he has been taking photographs underwa-

ifications of a 2nd class diver. Has experience in

passionate about freediving :)

ter, and since 2008 he has also been filming. As

underwater work both at sea and inland. Since

an independent journalist, he published dozens

2013 he has been diving in caves, especially in the

of articles, mainly in journals dedicated to diving,

mountains, and since 2014 he is a diving instruc-

but not only. Co-author of photo exhibitions in

tor CMAS M1. In June 2020, he obtained a doctor-

Poland and abroad. He is passionate about and

al degree in underwater archeology.

propagator of diving.

Since 2008 he has been running his own website www.dive-adventure.eu. On the basis of extensive experience, in August 2018 he created the new Perfect Diver Magazine.

irena kosowska

Bartosz Pszczółkowski

hubert reiss

Regional Manager Divers Alert Network Polska,

That's my name and I come from Poznań. I have

An IT specialist by profession, but a flesh and

diving and first aid instructor, technical diver and

been associated with water practically from birth

blood salesman who is not afraid of any job. Div-

cave diver. In love with all flooded, dark, cold,

and with diving since I learned to walk. My grand-

ing has always been my big dream. At the begin-

tight places and invariably from the beginning

father instilled my passion for the underwater

ning it was supposed to be a challenge, a short

of the diving route – in the Baltic. Implementing

world, a CMAS*** instructor taking me to the

episode but it turned out to be a passion for the

the DAN mission, he conducts a series of lectures

lakes at any free time. I obtained my first qual-

end of the world and one day longer. Under water

”Dive safely” and Diving Safety Laboratory, so field

ifications in 1996. A year later I went to Croatia

I react and rest. As a Divemaster, sidemount Razor

research of divers for scientific purposes.

and literally went crazy at the sight of blue wa-

diver, and recently also a photographer, I realize

ter, octopus and colorful fish;) I bought my first

my dreams by admiring and immortalizing the

underwater camera – Olympus 5060 and started

beauty of the underwater world. "Passion breeds

the adventure with underwater photography.

professionalism, professionalism gives quality, and

I acquired my diving experience in the Canary

quality is a luxury in life. Nowadays, especially..."

Islands, Sardinia, Norway, Maldives and in Polish lakes. I am currently a Padi and ESA instructor, I train diving enthusiasts in Europe and pass my passion on to others.

I invite all lovers of the underwater world and photography to Beediver (FB) – see you soon.

co n s ta n t coo p e r at i o n

wojciech a. filip

anna sołoducha

sylwia kosmalska-juriewicz

Has more than 8000 dives on his account. He

A graduate of Geography faculty at the University

A traveller and a photographer of wild nature.

has been diving for over 30 years, including over

of Wrocław and an incurable optimist… with a per-

A graduate of journalism and a lover of good liter-

20 years as a technical diver. He is a professional

manent smile on her lips! It was probably Destiny

ature. She lives in harmony with nature, promotes

with great theoretical and practical knowledge. He

that led her to Activtour… and she's been here

a healthy lifestyle: she is a yogini and a vegetarian.

is an instructor of many federations: GUE Instruc-

on permanent basis. She passionately fulfils the

Also engaged in ecological projects. Sharks and

tor Mentor, CMAS**, IANTD nTMX, IDCS PADI, EFR,

dreams of many, organizing diving trips around the

their protection are especially close to her heart.

TMX Gas Blender. He participated in many diving

world, and she has already been diving for more

She writes about the subject in numerous articles

projects and conferences as a leader, explorer,

than half of her life. Each year she explores a dif-

and on her blog www.divingandtravel.pl. She be-

originator or lecturer. These included the Britan-

ferent ‘piece of the ocean’, pinning another pin to

gan her adventure with diving fifteen years ago

nic Expedition 2016, Morpheus Cave Scientific

her diving world map. In winter she changes fins

by total coincidence. Today she is a Divemaster,

Project on Croatia caves, GROM Expedition in

into her beloved skis and gets away into the Alps.

she visited over 60 countries and dived on 5 con-

Narvik, Tuna Mine Deep Dive, Glavas Cave in Croa-

A recipe for life? ”The only a dead trunk flows with

tinents. She invites us for a joint journey with the

tia, NOA-MARINE. Professionally, he is a technical

the current – the explorer's canoe flows up the river!”

travel agency www.dive-away.pl, of which she is

director at TecLine in Scubatech, and a director of

anna@activtour.pl

a co-founder.

training at TecLine Academy.

activtour.pl; travel.activtour.pl; 2bieguny.com

karolina Sztaba

jakub degee

Michal Černý

Karolina Sztaba, and professionally Karola Takes

Polish photographer, winner of awards and dis-

"Wet photos" – He has photographed since he

Photos, is a photographer by education and pas-

tinctions in world underwater photography com-

remembers. After several years of experience as

sion. She is currently working at the Trawangan

petitions, has already dived all over the world: with

a diver, he wanted to keep memories of under-

Dive Center on a tiny island in Indonesia – Gili

sharks and whales in South Africa, with orcs be-

water dives. He bought his first compact camera

Trawangan, where she moved to live four years

hind the Arctic Circle, on Galapagos with hundreds

with an underwater housing. Over time, howev-

ago.She photographs above and below the wa-

of hammerhead sharks and humpback whales in

er, the desire to have the best photo began to

ter. In addition, she creates photographic proj-

the Tonga Islands. He participates in specialist

dominate, which was not quite possible with the

ects against littering the oceans and polluting

photographic workshops. He has been diving for

compact he used. That's why he switched to the

our planet with plastic ("Trapped", "Trashion"). He

27 years, he started at the age of 12 – as soon as

Olympus PEN E-PL 5 reflex camera, which al-

cooperates with NBO organizations dealing with

it was formally possible. He was the first in the

lows the use of several different lenses. He uses

environmental protection and actively partici-

world to use the Hasselblad X1d-50c camera for

a combination of underwater flashes and lights.

pates in pro-ecological actions (coral protection,

underwater macro photography. Recently, in the

He focuses on wildlife photography, not arrange-

coral planting, cleaning the world, protection of

remote Chincorro archipelago on the border be-

ment. He photographs in fresh domestic waters

endangered species). He is also the official pho-

tween Mexico and Belize, he did it again, taking

as well as in the seas and oceans of the world.

tographer of Ocean Mimic – a brand that creates

a successful attempt to photograph the eye of

He has already won numerous awards at Czech

swimwear and surfwear from rubbish collected

a crocodile with a macro lens with an additional

and foreign photography competitions. More

on the beaches of Bali. She cooperated with many

magnifying lens, which is the world's largest photo

photos can be found on his website, where you

brands of diving equipment for which she created

of the crocodile's eye living in the wild (in terms of

can also buy them not only as photos, but also as

advertising campaigns. In 2019, she became the

pixel count, print size, quality).

photos printed on canvas or on another medium.

ambassador of the Polish company Tecline.

www.mokrefotky.cz

She has been a technical diver for two years.

www.facebook.com/MichalCernyPhotography www.instagram.com/michalcerny_photography/

co n s ta n t coo p e r at i o n

wojciech jarosz

Agnieszka kalska

laura kazimierska

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the Acad-

”I can't imagine living without water, where in a free

Laura Kazimierska is currently working as PADI

emy of Physical Education (coaching specializa-

body I experience freedom of the spirit.”

Course Director at TrawanganDive Center on the

tion – handball) and the University of A.Mickiewicz, Faculty of Biology (specialty of experimental biology). He connected his professional life with this first university trying to influence the direction of development of future professionals on the one hand, and on the other planning and

• founder of the first freediving and swimming school in Poland – FREEBODY, • Apnea Academia International and PADI Master Freediver freediving instructor, • world record holder in freediving (DYN 253 m),

Indonesian island of Gili Trawangan. Founder of the Divemastergilis portal. www.divemastergilis.com @divemastergilis For over 7 years she has lived and discovered the underwater world of Indonesia. She is not only an avid technical diver, but also the face of the

implementing research, pushing laboriously in

• record holder and Polish champion, member

Planet Heroes platform and the ambassador of

the right direction of the stroller called science.

of the national team in freediving 2013–2019,

the Ocean Mimic brand. She actively contributes

In his free time he spends his time actively – his

• winner of the World Championships in freed-

to the promotion of the protection of corals and

main passions are sailing (sea helmsman), skiing

iving 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018,

the natural environment of fish and marine an-

(downhill skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle,

• multimedalist of the Polish Championships

imals by taking part in scientific projects, cam-

recreational diving and many other activities, as

and a member of the national team in swim-

paigns against ocean littering and cooperating

well as photography, mainly nature.

ming in the years 1998–2003,

with NGOs in Indonesia.

• passionate about freediving and swimming.

@laura_kazi

agata turowicz-cybula Since I was a child, I had dreamed of becoming a marine biologist and I managed to fulfill that dream. I did a degree in oceanography, where I recently started my doctoral studies. My diving adventure began when I was 12 years old. I love observing the underwater life up close and I try to show other divers how fascinating the underwater, Baltic creatures are.

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o u r au t h o r s

julia zabrodzka i bartek kaftan They travel together with a camera (Julia) and a notebook (Bartek). Preferably to the countries of Central America, especially Mexico and Guatemala, where they spent a total of almost one and a half years. They have been writing for the Polish and foreign press about the places they visited and the people they met on the way. Their photos and texts appeared, among others in "The Guardian", "El País", "Polityka", "Scripture", "Wysokie Obcasy", "Zwierciadło", "Esquire" or "Kukbuku", as well as in travel magazines, such as "Podróże", "Voyage" or "Continents". They like water in every form – seas, lakes, and rivers – but they consistently stick to the surface without venturing into the depths. You can see Julia's photos at: www.juiazabrodzka.pl

maciej posłuszny Founder of the DIVE ENERGY diving center; M2 KDP PTTK CMAS instructor; DAN instructor.

Connected with water since he was a child, KS POSNANIA club. Canadian, multiple medalist in the national and international arena, a player of the Polish national team. After the end of his sports career, he moved his passion for sport and competition under water.

"I am completely satisfied in diving, promoting safe diving is my priority."

Technically … the best.

Hollis gear stands up to any condition.

So, how deep will you go? krzysztof dziech Born on July 4, 1973 in Chorzów, Poland. A priest of the Katowice diocese, working in France since 2002. Diver since 2000 and now: CMAS *** Instructor, CMAS TRIMIX Trainer, PADI TEC TRIMIX Instructor.

He has a state diploma as a sports educator in the field of diving: DEJEPS. A fan of the GUE school as Fundamentals-Tech Diver.

www.nurkowanie-ecn.pl

sponsored article

t r av e l s

Lanza Text and photos wojciech zgoła

Lanza is a volcanic island. The sight of cones of different

Colloquially known as Lanza, the island of Lanzarote, one of the Canary Islands archipelago, welcomed us very nicely.

It was sunny, warm, transparent under the water, tasty and interesting.

colours, at different times of the day accompanies us every day and it does not matter which way we go. The magic of the lunar ambiance, the lack of vegetation, the landscape untouched by human hand can excite us internally or take us down. Fortunately, we have a vibrant dive in the Atlantic Ocean. All this aura affects us calmingly and clears the mind.

It is worth mentioning that the volcanoes in Lanzarote are about 300, and the most eruptions occurred between 1730 and

T 10

1736. The last explosion happened in 1824. But take note. In he Perfect Diver magazine was invited to dive by the Bo-

some places, just a few meters below the surface of the earth

nito Diving Lanzarote Diving Center. The Coronavirus

there is a temperature of 4000°C. Here I will mention that vis-

changed travel plans for many people in the past year, but we

iting the Timanfaya National Park will help you to see it with

managed to take advantage of the invitation.

your own eyes.

travels

YES

NO

RARE

Angel sharks, stingrays, groupers Wrecks Grottoes Dolphins and turtles Nudist beaches with a diving spot Museo Atlántico

The Bonito Diving Lanzarote Diving Centre has recently

The walls of the

been renovated. It got very cosy in it, and the atmosphere we

office area are decorat-

found caused us to want to dive with them. Kasia and Filip

ed with beautiful paintings of

were our guardians and guides. By the way, we met some new

animals, which can be found here underwater. I would like

people with whom we dived throughout the stay. Sometimes

to add that we have about 200 m to the "home reef". So if we

we were divided into smaller groups, because Dominika was

dive from Playa Flamingo, then the team will take the cylinders

doing a basic diving course, and Agnieszka and Marcin wanted

to the beach, and dressed in wet suits, with a cheerful step we

to see an angel shark. I like almost everything underwater :)

reach the place of entry into the water in 5 minutes.

It is interesting that in Bonito DL we use 10L cylinders filled

Believe me, the hot lava in contact with the ocean has cre-

with air up to 300 bars. The base is well prepared as for the

ated a unique cover of the bottom. In some places you could

equipment and logistics. It has its own cars and good connec-

see how lava moved. There are upheavals, grottoes and walls,

tions if you would like to dive from a boat. There is a toilet,

and further you come across sand, where you probably always

a lecture hall, an equipment shop, large couches in the brewing

look for an angel shark or a stingray. In smaller holes hide large

area, water, coffee and tea and even candies.

moray eels, crabs and other animals that lead a night-time

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

11

sponsored article

12

travels

lifestyle. Skilled eyes, in a well-chosen diving mask, will look out

We have 6 different areas underwater, and the creators'

seahorses, snails, spider crabs and shrimps. The sand can be

goal was to raise issues about natural resources and make

black, gray and white. You can find in it a lot in it lizards, floun-

us think. It is worth adding that it was conceived ecologically

ders and other fish of the bottom zone. From time to time, we

and cement with a neutral pH was used for the construction

also encounter small pieces that camouflage themselves in the

of the installation.

surrounding environment.

Best months to meet angel sharks? From the end of September to about April. Later it is much harder to see them.

Is it worth diving in Museo Atlántico? If you are already in Lanzarote then yes, it is. However, if you want to fly there to dive, in my opinion it is not.

It is worth noting that for some time, at the end of the year,

There are places in the world that naturists choose. All in

counting of these less and less numerous fish takes place, and

all, it is not known why. Philip took us to a place like this. It is

Bonito Diving Lanzarote participates in the whole action.

a very interesting diving spot with a difficult descent from the

The vicinity of Museo Atlántico. For diving we go on a zodi-

parking lot to the water. The place is called Charco del Palo

ac from the port. We jump in at one place, the guide "guides"

and indeed there are naked people here, mainly at the age of

us around the exhibits and we emerge in another place. The

70+ but not only. They do not do anything with divers carefully

boat is already waiting for us there.

treading on the stones up and down. Maybe it is because they

Museo Atlántico is part of Lanzarote’s Centre for Art, Culture

mostly look at their feet. Slipping can be dramatic in its effects.

and Tourism. It was created to protect nature and experience

To dive in Charco del Palo there must be suitable weath-

the unique beauty of the island's landscape. The sculptures were

er conditions connected with wind waves. We had luck. The

created by Jason de Caires Taylor. The figures and installations

draft and the unbelievable visibility were reaching over 40 m.

are located on sand on an area of 2500 m2. The first works were

Filip can clearly see shapes hidden under the sand. He spotted

submerged in 2016. Museo opened to divers in January 2017.

a torpedo ray for us and 3 sharks. We descended about 38 me-

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

13

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ters deep, meeting a variety of fish, including rays of different species, barracudas, groupers, flounders and lizardfish.

After a longer surface break, we made a second dive here in similar, very good conditions.

Puerto del Carmen, on the beach side, is a very popular dive site. There are many diving centers here. The equipment is clarified on the concrete part of the quay, and you go down the stairs to the water or from the other side of the house (restaurant) straight from the sandy beach. There is a lot

Wrecks

14

to see here, also for technical divers. Below 40 m deep, we

Well, there are a few of them. My favourites are in Puerto

can find, among others, a "shrimp grotto". There is a "cathe-

del Carmen. The departure is from the port on a zodiac. We

dral" between 30 and 40 meters deep, where large groupers

all sail in masks and take them off just before jumping into

hang out. Some of them are over a meter long. There are also

the water. There are 9 people in total. The time from boarding

forkbeards. Coming back "on the sand" we can meet angel

the boat to submersion is approximately 5 minutes. There are

sharks, marbled electric rays, stingrays, common eagle rays,

2 wrecks here. One at 20 meters and the other at 40 meters.

stonefish, and in the case of larger lava elevations overgrown

Among the wrecks, you can often find stingrays and even angel

with plants, seahorses and spider crabs. Everywhere there are

sharks. We are lucky and admire two large stingrays. One of

many colourful fish called ornate wrasses, there are oblades,

them is resting in the wreck, and the other is swimming in the

mullets, cuttlefish, sea urchins, trumpetfish and others.

depths. The former ship, the one lying at a depth of 20 m, is

Each time, after successful dives, we return to our starting

skewed and lies on one side. The second wreck, or rather its

base of the Bonito Diving Lanzarote Diving Center to rinse and

larger and smaller fragments, are spread over a larger area of

hang up the equipment, quench our thirst, fill out logbooks

the bottom. I remember when I was in Lanzarote for the first

and chat. Most often we ask for suggestions relating to the

time we met a 1.5 meter long angel shark here. It was lying

recommended restaurant. There are many of them, but it is

quietly on the sand, next to the iron parts of the wreckage.

worth following Kasia and / or Filip's advice, because they have

travels

been living here for some time. And believe me, the cuisine in

de Famara, climb the

Lanzarote is such that you lick your fingers! You can even taste

hills near the north-

the moray eel meat if you like. There are many possibilities.

ern tip of the island

From seafood, through fish, burgers, to vegetarian and vegan

by car to look at

cuisine. Something good for everyone. The local starter are

the nearby island

potatoes served with red and green sauces. You can order

of La Graciosa. We

local wine with dinner.

also visit Jameos

Taking a day off from diving, Kasia takes us on a day trip.

del Agua – volcanic

We visit the Timanfaya National Park, go to Los Hervideros,

caves with an un-

walk along the beach with sand blacker than soot. The contrast

derground lake. It is

with the white foam of the waves is amazing. We visit el Golfo.

home to the endemic

It is a wonderful natural bay located west of Yaiza. Nature has

and blind albino crab

created an emerald green lagoon here. It is separated from

(unidopsis polymorpha). We

the blue ocean by a black beach, and above it are towering

are going to the wild beaches

red-brown rocks. To see it from a height, you need to go up

of Caleta del Majon Blanco, where

a small hill of once frozen lava. From this place we admire

locals and visitors build oval "nests" us-

the wonderful, natural colour combination. It is worth coming

ing black lava stones. This way, they protect

when the sun illuminates the lagoon. Plus the wind and blue

themselves from the wind and sunbathing. A very interesting

sky. What more could you want?

place with a difficult entry into the water without infrastruc-

We want and we are going on. We have lunch in the middle

ture. No toilets or restaurants. Wild and natural, if not for the

of the island in Teguise, visit the beautiful but very windy Playa

garbage... After coming back Kasia shows us Arrecife – nothing

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

15

sponsored article

special – a place on the ocean side where planes arrive and

at first, finally tired of the presence of a human being, she

land. For a moment it seems as if they were falling on you!

scurries somewhere between the rocks. There are also small

We end our stay in Lanza with a night dive from Playa

cuttlefish, crabs and red scorpionfish and a lot of sea urchins.

Flamingo. The inconspicuous spot surprises

The crowning glory of an overnight immersion is the encounter

us from the very moment of immerLanzarote was

And finally, Perfect Diver offers everyone a barbecue

– spotted lumpfish that can

to thank you for the great time. The wonderful dives will re-

discovered by Lancelotto Malocello in 1312.

In the 1960s and 1970s, Lanzarote's economy underwent a transformation, but César Manrique – the most famous Canarian architect, saved the island from tourist expansion. Lanzarote and we too owe him

grow up to 25 cm in length.

We see golden moray eels in the depths. One of them eats cuttlefish

the concealing of electrical cables underground. Wires

in front of Dominika

and poles do not frighten or destroy the natural views of

and Kasia. Descending

the volcanic mountains up to the horizon. There are also

a dozen or so meters

no advertising boards on the island, and hotel floor and room limits have been set and imposed. They cannot be changed. The same goes for the colour of houses, shutters and doors. Only the island's capital – Arrecife – does not fit into the uniformity of the rest. It sticks out and somehow does not fit.

16

with a 1.5 meter long stingray.

sion. We meet large nudibranchs

deep, we admire the size of a scyllarus. After a while, we notice a large octopus that spends a few minutes with us. Curious

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DIVE SITES Charco del Pal Depth 0–40 m

Veril de Playa Chica Depth 0–40 m

Playa Flamingo Depth 0–18 m

Timanfaya Reef Depth 0–18 m

La Catedral Depth 0–32 m

Agujero Azul Depth 0–35 m

Museo Atlantico Depth 12 m

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Raja Ampat the last paradise on earth Text laura kazimierska Photos karolina sztaba

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travels

WAIGEO BATANTA KOFIAU SALAWATI

NEW GUINEA

MISOOL

Borneo Celebes

New Guinea

charming corner of Indonesia, known for its paradise beaches and rich coral reefs, offers magical landscapes above and below the water surface. It should be one of the top places on any diver's wish list.

Raja Ampat, meaning the Four Kings, consists of four main islands. According to legend, the kings hatched from dragon eggs and each of them settled on one of the larger islands, the remains of the crust turned into rocks that are so abundant in this region.

On Waigeo you can admire Indonesia's one-of-a-kind crimson birds of paradise, Misool boasts a heart-shaped bay and ancient cave paintings, the other two are Batanta and Salawati surrounded by an archipelago of randomly scattered smaller islands and islets, over a thousand in total, covered with jungle with most of them are uninhabited by humans.

Regardless of whether your passion is diving, snorkeling, long journeys or you are simply someone who is able to appreciate the beauty of nature, Raja Ampat will satisfy you in every way by offering a substitute for paradise on earth.

Travelling from Poland, be prepared for a rather exhausting, but worth the effort journey. When you get there, I guarantee that you will forget about any inconveniences and you will get impressed by the heavenly landscape that this secluded

C

part of the world offers.

lose your eyes and imagine the various shades of the blue

You must start your adventure with Raja Ampat right af-

stretching on the horizon, tropical sun rays stroking your

ter arriving in Indonesia. It is best to fly to Bali or Jakarta and

skin, salty, gentle breeze in your hair and tiny islets like divine

from here plan a flight to Sorong, the main port, which is the

rock fragments scattered around crystal clear water. And be-

gate to the park (unfortunately, there are no direct flights from

low the surface, you can see an underwater Eden. The harmo-

Bali yet, so expect a stop somewhere in Sulawesi). Sorong is

ny of nature, where each inhabitant has a specific purpose and

a port city, crowded and guarantees a serious culture shock,

place. I have just transferred you to Raja Apmat.

so I do not recommend staying there for longer.

It is a far east Indonesian archipelago and at the same time

From here you can fly to the capital of Raja Ampat, the small

a nature reserve that is administratively located in the province

town of Waisai (the Marinda airport), jump on a liveaboard, as

of West Papua, on the so-called Bird's Head Peninsula. This

many of them dock in the bay, or catch a boat to one of the

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19

larger islands. It is best to arrange everything before you come

miring the same landscape as the famous explorer Alfred Rus-

with a tour operator you will be diving with.

sel Walles when he travelled these routes in the 19th century.

Saying goodbye to Sorong and entering the paradise corner

And if you want to live on a boat, you need to stay on one

of the world which is Raja Ampat, put down your mobile phone

that is in itself a work of art created with passion, combining

(in most places there is no coverage anyway), allow yourself

the Indonesian tradition with luxury. The Pacific High Indo-

to completely relax and commune with nature. Forget about

nesia fleet guarantees a unique adventure tailored to your

the gray reality of mundane matters thousands of kilometers

needs. Depending on your interests, financial resources and

away and indulge your underwater passion. A holiday here is

free time, the crew will design a unique dream trip for you.

like a journey through time, where the local people continue

Imagine getting up in the morning and going out on deck

to live the same rhythm from more than a century ago, dealing

with a mug of delicious Indonesian coffee, to be greeted by

with fishing and farming.

dolphins playing on the blue tones of the sea seen only on

The charms of Raja Ampat are best discovered from the so-called liveaboard due to the fact that you can afford further

Pacific High Indonesia offers tours not only in Raja Ampat,

escapades deep into the park. It is quite an expensive option,

but also Komodo and the hidden Banda Sea islands. It is a per-

but worth any price.

fect combination of experience, technology and tradition. Their

For more than 10 days, you live in a floating hotel, moving

sailing ships are built in the traditional Indonesian style called

from place to place, diving, snorkeling, admiring picturesque

pinisi, inscribed in the UNESCO List of the Intangible Cultural

sunsets, savoring the delicacies of local cuisine, or climbing the

Heritage of Humanity. Yann, the co-founder of the company

nearby peaks of deserted islands.

and at the same time a boatbuilding expert, personally ensures

In addition, sometimes you feel that you and your crew are the only people on earth, surrounded by pristine nature, ad-

20

Impressionist canvases.

that every detail is perfected. You will feel it from the very first time you board a ship.

Their great advantage is not only a unique sea adventure, but also care for the environment. Each cruise follows the pro-ecological zero-waste philosophy. The wood, the main building material of the sailing ships, is sourced from sustainable plantations in Kalimantan and Sulawesi, and some of the proceeds from the trip and sale go to thicken tropical forests in Borneo.

Yann considers himself primarily a boatbuilder and sailor,

What distinguishes the Raja Ampat liveaboard tour is that as you dive you are usually the only group in the water and thus have unique interactions with the underwater nature.

and his fascination with the underwater world ranks second in his life. His love and passion can be seen in every detail.

Travelling through this extraordinary corner, where time has

each dive you move into the frame of the blue planet, the sea

stood still, on the traditional Indonesian finisi it guarantees an

world comes to life in front of your eyes revealing all secrets,

unforgettable experience and fabulous landscapes filling the

as if someone had pressed the PLAY button.

time between dives.

What distinguishes the Raja Ampat liveaboard tour is that as you dive you are usually the only group in the water and

Surrounded by treasures of nature, with a voice describing the amazing species of fish coming from all sides, Raja Ampat is love at first dive for me.

thus have unique interactions with the underwater nature.

The abundance of species of fish and corals, schools of fu-

Under the surrounding blue, you will experience an explosion

siliers and trevallies gracefully float in the currents, giving way

of colours of flowering coral reefs creating a kaleidoscope of

only to larger specimens of humpback wrasses, bumphead

unique formations and shapes, pleasing the eyes of even the

parrotfish and rays. Shy tiny seahorses with all their strength

most demanding enthusiasts of the underwater nature. With

twist their tails around the coral to prevent them from being

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21

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blown away by the current, and right next to them, without much effort, white and blacktip sharks patrol the reef for something to eat.

If you prefer the mainland instead of living in a limited space of a sailing ship, then you should definitely go to Misool.

On one of the main islands, in an isolated part of Raja Ampat, there is Misool Resort. It is a tropical hideaway far from any civilization, hidden between an archipelago of deserted islands. Wherever the eye can see, you will be amazed by golden beaches and virgin coral reefs. Misool Resort offers a luxurious escape from civilization and a unique underwater experience.

By staying here, you support a foundation that contributed to the protection of the national park by establishing the socalled No-take-zone, zones where fishing is prohibited. The foundation founded by Andrew and Marit Miners supports patrol boats that chase away potential poachers 365 days a year.

As a result, there has been a 200% increase in the natural environment of the surrounding coral reefs and nearby mangroves over the past five years.

There are over 40 diving sites around the island, and the farthest one is approx. 15 minutes away by motorboat. They are diverse in terms of topography, so everyone will find some-

22

thing for themselves. Walls, gentle slopes covered with hard coral, underwater ridges reaching a depth of over 50 meters, lagoons, will please not only divers but also snorkelers, making this destination ideal for family holidays.

What can we see after submerging under the surface of the warm water? Oh my goodness, what miracles! Ocean rays, white and whitetip and blacktip sharks, gray sharks, wobbegongs, eupaulette sharks found only in this region, and many other wonderful specimens. The lucky ones may even encounter a whale shark or a passing hammerhead shark.

For those traveling on a budget, south of Gam there is a little dot on the map. It is an islet called Arborek. Here you will find several homestays and the Arborek Dive Center run by the lovely couple Marsel and Gita, whose experienced crew will gladly take you snorkeling around the nearby coral reefs. It will take you less than half an hour to walk around the island, and the sight of the crystal clear waters surrounding all sides will soothe your senses. You can arrange transportation from Waisai by speedboat just before arrival, the price depends on the number of guests, as you know, the more the cheaper.

Traditional wooden bungalows are located right on the beach, so you will be rocked to sleep by the sound of waves, only to be greeted the next morning by an explosion of blue.

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all expectations and you will easily find places for immersion with a cylinder or even just with a snorkel. Among them, the small Strait of Kabui between the islands of Waigeo and Gam is known for its strong sea currents, where the magical landscapes created by shoals of fish surround you from each side to slip away from a hunting tuna in a fraction of a moment.

Another highlight is Kawe, divespot located right on the equator. So you can moor on one side of the Earth's hemisphere to sail to the other.

Raja Ampat offers everything every diver can only dream of, strong sea currents that will make the descent into the water very exciting and full of impressions. If you are passionate about macro, numerous bays offer the opportunity to search for small sea horses in the coral reef, nudibranchs of rainbow colours or anglerfish. You will find five-metre ocean stingrays, sharks, turtles, giant clams and plenty of other equally stunning species.

However, countless islands are not just a paradise for div-

24

Raja Ampat is an ideal place for diving enthusiasts, because

ers. The time spent on the surface is full of charming vantage

it is here that there is a variety of species not found anywhere

points, to which you often have to climb through a jungle with

else in the world. No wonder the number of divers exceeds

the colours of green so juicy that this word takes on a real

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meaning. In addition, on the road you can meet monkeys and colourful paradise birds of Indonesia. There is a great prize at the top. Looking down, mother nature presents its best work of art, giving us a chance to see a piece of paradise. The vantage point of Wayag Island is not only breathtaking, but will accompany you long after successful holidays.

It is also a great attraction to visit local villages like Arborek on the island Waigeo, where the villagers will welcome you with a traditional dance and music from Papuan tribes. The choreography describes the history of the natives, their life based on fishing and cultivating land, living according to nature. You can take part in workshops of local ornamental art, making hats and baskets, all made of natural plastics, seagrass and plants surrounding this small village.

It is an amazing place on earth, it is like an endless story, at every turn revealing something new, anyone can be an explorer here and find a piece of land or reef that no one has seen before. Raja and its archipelago is one of the few magical corners of this world that is relentlessly captivating despite the passage of time.

Don’t settle for less.

Additional information:

Elite design. Top performance.

Where to stay in Raja Ampat: www.stayrajaampat.com Pacific High Indonesia: www.pacifichighcruise.com @pacifichigh_indonesia Misool Resort: www.misool.info @misool.resort

With Atomic Aquatics, the only limits are your own.

Misool Foundation: www.misoolfoundation.org Arborek Dive Shop: www.arborekrajaampat.wordpress.com/arborekdiveshop Direct flight from: Jakarta (Java), Makasar, Manodo (Sulawesi) Ambon, Jayapura (Papua)

www.nurkowa nie-ecn.pl

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The Bahamas water world

26

travels

Text bartek kaftan Photos julia zabrodzka

In the Bahamas islands and islets there is so much that everyone can find one just for themselves. But the real home for many of the inhabitants of the archipelago remains the ocean.

Little Abaco Grand Bahama

Great Abaco

NASSAU

Eleuthera Cat Island

Andros

San Salvador Great Exuma

Long Island Acklin Islands

Mayaguana Little Inagua

Great Inagua

THE BAHAMAS

O

n the rope stretched above the deck are hanging a few silvery barracudas. Not many, it was not a big fishing,

I do not think they went far. "But sometimes we spend two or three weeks at sea," says the captain, who is seated resplendently on a chair at the wheelhouse. For twenty days and nights, a cutter becomes the home of his crew: a dozen meters long, six, maybe seven. Is it hard to imagine? No, if you live in the Bahamas, a country of nearly 700 scraps of land – sometimes a little bigger than the boat of the fisherman we are just talking to in the capital Nassau. It is the homeland of the people of the ocean.

“I regularly dive at 20–30 feet,” Errol from a smaller cutter nearby starts telling us his sea story. “Great exercise,” I answer.

“Not bad for 62 years old, isn't it?” the slim and muscular man laughs. In fact, he looks a dozen years younger. But he does not dive either for training or for pleasure. This is a popular fishing method in the Bahamas. Fishermen go out to sea not only for fish, but also for crawfish, and like Errol, for wingers. Living in huge, beautiful shells, snails are one of the local delicacies. “To

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catch them we swim east, towards Eleuthera, or south, to the

survivours. This place does not compare with a posh habour of

Exuma Cays,” he says. “You can find conchs everywhere where

cruise ships that dock right in the center. Their massive bodies

the ocean is shallow and the bottom is sandy,” he adds. And the

look down on the one – or two-floor buildings of Nassau.

Bahamas are a maze of shallows, backwaters and narrow spac-

Nevertheless, the sea heart of the capital and the entire archi-

es. Today, this white and turquoise landscape made of sand and

pelago is beating on Potter's Cay. It is from here that the postal

water attracts thousands of tourists, formerly it was the terror

freighters, a real Bahamian institution, set off to the furthest

of captains. It is estimated that over three thousand Spanish,

corners of the country. “Mail boats have been in the archipelago

British and French ships have sunk since the 16th century in the

for two hundred years, once under sail, today with an engine,”

area difficult to navigate. However, it is a paradise for snails. “But

says Lance Brozozog, the captain of the Grand Master, who will

that's not what it used to be,” Errol sighs. “You catch too many

be taking the night cruise to George Town situated on Grand Ex-

of them, you poach too much. There are less and less of them.”

uma. This is one of several regularly operated routes. “Captains

***

sign contracts with the government for the transport of parcels

A spirit of nostalgia and bygone glory hovers over the entire

and letters, as well as goods and passengers. The idea is for each

harbour on Potter's Cay, the connected island in Nassau. On

inhabited island to have a permanent connection to Nassau,”

the wharf there are piles of crates, rusty barrels, cats fight-

explains Lance, leading the Grand Master out to sea. Today on

ing with gulls over the remains of the gutted fish. From sev-

board he has planks and building materials, a lawn mower and

eral pubs on stilts you can hear loud voices of cooks, sizzling

TV sets, medicines and a laundry basket, tableware and packets

oil, rhythmic sound of knives chopping snails and the hiss of

of drinks, patches of grass and garden chairs, and a motorboat

opened bottles. On the water you can see small boats and

on a tow truck. And, of course, letters and a few passengers. Peo-

freighters that were patched and painted so many times that

ple who can choose prefer a flight lasting several dozen minutes

no one remembers their original colour. And smaller boats

instead of a cruise lasting several hours. In the past, however,

that will not go anywhere anymore. They have dropped an-

only freighters reached many islands. “I took over the mail boat

chors here for the last time and are used as raft houses for

from my dad Lenny,” says Lance. “And the first one in the family

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who sailed (at that time without an engine) was Uncle Rolly. He was a great captain and sailor. We named the ship the Grand Master in his honour,” he says. But he also knows his trade and the secrets of the waters washing the Exuma Cays so well that when the film The Pirates of the Caribbean was shot here, it was he and not the captain Jack Sparrow with a non-north compass who guided the famous Black Pearl from its hiding. *** "Welcome to the home of Grand Master" – we read on a tin plaque at the marina. Behind it, the town begins: colourful houses with Caribbean-style porches, tropical greenery, mango trees with fruit, purple bougainvillea garlands, red hibiscus stars. Peace and quiet, the hens peck crumbs from the cracks in the asphalt, the policewoman is dozing in a melex.

You do not need a car here. Staniel Cay, Rolly Gray's hometown islet, is a kilometer wide and three long. Just over a hundred people live here permanently.

We check in at the marina a few days after our departure from Nassau. A mail freighter drove us to George Town on Great Exuma Island. From there, we continue our Bahamian sailing cruise. We sail northwest along the Exuma Cays, a chain of over 350 tiny islands. On the first day we stick to the eastern side, swayed by the mighty Atlantic waves in the deep blue waters of Exuma Sound. The next day we squeeze through one of the inlets, and the sea landscape changes beyond recognition in a few minutes. We sail on the flat, turquoise surface of the Great Baha-

30

ma Bank, alternately exposing our faces to the sun and looking for starfish on the sandy bottom, a few meters below the keel.

The sheltered waters of the Exuma Cays are the mainstay of traditional Bahamian sailing. The characteristic wooden poles with a huge spearhead, and beams protruding far beyond the sides, from which the ballasting crew is hanging, can be seen in both George Town and Staniel Cay. Unfortunately we do not manage to see the traditional annual regatta, which is one of the most important holidays on individual islands. This was where Rolly Gray raced, and he was without equals. He won

Peace and quiet, the hens peck crumbs from the cracks in the asphalt, the policewoman is dozing in a melex. You do not need a car here. Staniel Cay, Rolly Gray's hometown islet, is a kilometer wide and three long. Just over a hundred people live here permanently.

several times one of the most prestigious competitions – April Family Island Regatta in George Town. The last time was in

mains of the fish were roaming, she pouted her lips and snaped

1998, he was then 76 years old.

a selfie of the predators swirling like in a snake nest. A scene

The Exuma Cays are still one of the favourite spots for

like from the Bond movies. And this is no coincidence, though.

yachtsmen, but today luxury yachts are seen here more often

After all, it was the nearby underwater cave that played one

than traditional wooden boats. Really luxurious ones. When we

of the enemy's hideouts for Agent 007 in the film Thundeball.

come to the marina from the anchorage, we moor our modest

***

pontoon near a two-floor, shiny giant under the flag of one of

In this film, the villains from the organisation Specter hide

the Caribbean tax havens. A girl with the appearance of a mod-

a British military plane with atomic bombs in the shallow wa-

el, wearing a bikini and airy dress, is coming ashore on the

ters of the Bahamas. Two days later, on Norman's Cay, we

gangplank. Watched by all the customers of the port tavern, she

come across some traces of an equally improbable but not at

slowly approached the place where the sharks lured by the re-

all cinematic story. On the shores of the islet, we are greeted by

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a ruined tropical bungalow with a sunken palm thatched roof.

In the thicket of greenery, we notice concrete steps, we climb them through the wild garden to the terrace. The remains of the roof cast an openwork shadow on the stone floor. The view is a bit overgrown with palm trees, but it is still stunning: a turquoise bay, green islands in the background with white lines of beaches, and a few anchoring yachts in front of them.

Some time ago there were probably no boats here, only a select few had access to the island. Perhaps the host welcomed them on this terrace, offering them the most expensive rums in the world in the bar that is now empty. He could do anything.

Carlos Lehder Rivas, who bought almost the entire island in the 1970s, was one of the founders of the Medellín cartel. From 1978 to 1982 Norman's Cay was its headquarters and terminal for cocaine from Colombia to the United States. Lehder had his own army of security guards, a pack of Dobermans, and an airfield with radar. At the time of the cocaine boom, up to 300 kg of drugs a day passed through the island.

Not everything went according to the plan. After returning to the yacht, we put on our masks and fins and jump into the

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water. In the middle of the bay, at a depth of several meters, we see a plane wreck. The bow is facing south, the pilot's cabin is shattered, the right wing is embedded in the bottom, but the propeller still is hanging above the sand.

Apparently, no one was eager to haul the DC-3 plane out of the water that missed the runway – Lehder's men limited themselves to retrieving the valuable cargo. We dive under the left wing, we look inside the fuselage through

DIVE STRONG. DIVE ZEAGLE. Every mission. In every condition. Zeagle has your back.

the windows, we scare the school of green and blue wrasses spinning around the exposed engine mechanism. Ever since the Bahamas authorities confiscated the property in 1983, tropical nature has slowly absorbed the traces of the drug empire – whether on land or in water.

Before the evening we sail to a nearby island. It is nameless, to our knowledge, like many in the Bahamas. But who would care to name a piece of land that is little bigger than a cutter or yacht? Hundreds of young conchs lie in the shallow water washing the sandbanks, in the middle the flat line of the horizon is broken by a trunk of a palm tree. There is a small plaque right next to it. "In memory of Mrs. and Mr. Turner," we read. Apparently they were sailors and they loved this place. It is not surprising. We sit under a lonely palm tree and look at the Atlantic. It is good to think that you do not have to be a millionaire, a smuggler, or an agent of Her Majesty to have your own island somewhere in the world. Even a quite tiny one.

www.nurkowanie-ecn.pl

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Sardinian tales Northeast

Granite Santa Teresa di Galura and the archipelago of a thousand islands of La Maddalena

Text and photos Bartosz pszczółkowski The bear from Capo di Orso

T

he north-east part of the island has as many amazing plac-

of between 10 and 20 meters, making it accessible to beginner

es as the central or southern part of Sardinia.

divers. The advanced divers will also be delighted. The stern of

Santa Teresa is a granite rock formation carved by wind and

water. They form a unique sculpture, such as Capo di Orso or the Cape of the Bear.

34

the wreck has a large propeller in good condition.

The place is safe, with few openings to swim in, but huge parts are impressive when gliding over their edges. You can

In Santa Teresa there is the Orca Diving Center, where Al-

meet moray eels lurking in the nooks and crannies, and in the

fredo welcomes us very warmly and explains that the bottles

open water, barracudas and red drums patrolling the area.

hanging on the hanger five an artistic effect, but the beautifully

Dusky grouper seem to guard the wreckage, from time to time

painted bottles are there just because they must dry somehow.

they appear and then disappear under some steel element.

Soon we start talking about diving and planning our depar-

There will also be something for a trained eye :) The wreck-

ture, and even though the day started with rain, the sun comes

age abounds with several fairly common species of nudi-

out after an hour and blurs all signs of bad weather, and smiles

branches, such as purple Flabellina or an unusual white and

grow on our faces.

blue cratena peregrina (called pilgrim hervia). In the wreckage,

In this area, we can dive on the Angelica wreck. This is

large rock formations make us feel small, like astronauts dis-

a Greek freighter that sank around 1985. The ship is at a depth

covering new worlds. The air ends quickly, and the sense of

travels

Orca Diving Center, Santa Teresa di Galurra

Like washing, hanging bottles for drying after painting

time underwater is completely different, after 62 minutes we

Divers travel from afar to see this coral, as it occurs at

go out of the water directly to the Zodiac boat, which here in

depths beyond the reach of recreational divers. However,

Sardinia they call "gommone".

there are several places where the magnificent trees of this

In search of black corals we dive to a depth of 40 meters.

animal can be admired between 30 and 40 meters.

Along the way we meet an unusual snail "Sea Hare" swim-

Another place is Mero Ville, a great place to watch and play

ming in a blue depth. It moves in a dance movement like a pair

with Serranidae. It is unusual that you can dive here with 40-ki-

dancing Spanish flamenco. Huge granite rock formations form

logram fish, which like dogs guard their yard and follow each

an unusual reef overgrown with gorgonias, and in nooks and

diver through their own properties.

crannies sleep the day such creatures as Alicia mirabilis (beau-

Definitely a unique place, however, you need to control the

tiful sea anemone, which can open like a flower during their

indications of the computer because it is easy to lose your head

night hunts).

in the company of groupers, crystalline water and large rock

The water is warm, 24°C and clear. Visibility reaches 30, 40 meters, like in a fairy tale.

Here you can meet groupers, barracudas, moray eels, and at a greater depth black coral Gerardia savaglia.

blocks decorated with red gorgonias.

We descend at the buoy, which sunken at a few meters forces us to "SZAMANDURA" which in the Sardinian dialect means "mooring to the sunken buoy". The chain is attached to a large

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Angelica wreck

A diver spotted a nudibranch (Flabellina)

"Sea Hare" (Coniglio)

Cratena peregrina

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podróże

Black coral, Gerardia savaglia Alicja mirabilis

concrete block at 30 meters. All attractions are concentrated between 17 and 30 meters so the time under water is limited.

It is a good idea to use nitrox here to extend the no-decompression time limits. Sometimes there is current here and it is worth sticking to the guide, who will lead us through the "house of the grouper" (Casa de la cernia) and will show you a lot of attractions.

This place is located away from the mainland, which increases the attractiveness of diving but also poses challenges for less experienced scuba divers.

After successful dives, it is necessary to eat something, because our tummies are growling, and in Santa Teresa there is a delicious seafood eatery, and spaghetti frutti di mare just rocks! ;) Another day is planned in the archipelago of La Maddalena, where on the goat island of Caprera there is a villa of Garibaldi.

An Italian hero, a veteran in the struggle for independence in thanks for his merits received a wonderful estate.

The history of Italy here is intertwined with fabulous views and colors.

In an atmospheric cove, between the islands, we spend the night on a boat. Once it gets dark, we sail in a raft (dingi) to a nearby islet to enjoy the peace and quiet offered by the place. We also taste previously purchased regional drinks and

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t r av e l s The big Grouper posing, in his backyard, for a photo

With Daniele from the Diving Center Area 11 we dive off the island of Spargi. The water has a beautiful blue shade and 30 meters of visibility. The temperature is about 23 degrees and it is perfectly calm. The surroundings of Caprera Island under water are monumental rock blocks, descending up to 30 meters deep. Overgrown with algae and sponges. It is a great place to look out for my favorite inhabitants of such neighborhoods which is nudibranchs. And here it is, found after just 34 minutes of diving!!! I scream out of joy towards the diving regulator and get glued to the wall with the camera. I try to take a picture of the life, ha ha ha, as always when I find an animal meeting which I have always dreamed of. This is Janolus, an interesting nudibranch with inflated outgrowths called cerata.

After a few minutes I see another one, and soon one more, blue and yellow... I scream again :) Exceptional luck to meet these creatures, which are only 1.2 centimeters long.

All excited I come back to the surface after 67 minutes spent Janolus

next to the wall. My mouth does not close because I want to share my discoveries with everyone. cheeses. The night is pleasant, and the sky is dotted with stars

It was a successful day full of impressions and superb dives.

as if someone splashed a brush with white paint. After such an

I can't count which time I come to realize that this part of the

end to the day, we sleep through the night like children, rocked

Mediterranean offers such interesting experiences.

by Mediterranean water, and during the wake-up call we swim

The more I discover amazing animals and their dependen-

in the sea near the boat. I notice a ray under the boat at about

cies in these waters, the more new mysterious creatures ap-

5 meters and excitedly I rush to get the camera. Breathless,

pear on the list to find.

I come back and shoot a few pics. You can start the day like this :), and in an hour we go diving.

38

Often colleagues ask me how I know what to look for and how come I know so many small animals that are hard to see.

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The answer is simple and I always refer them to books that are already a kind of archaism, but this is a treasure trove full knowledge and a source of inspiration for me. Thanks to the specimens found in nature books, it is easier for me to locate them underwater.

The limited time we have during diving and the safety procedures that shorten this time, make every finding attractive, and the fact that not everyone is lucky enough to observe the underwater world from the perspective of a diver makes me feel under the water exceptionally, and for that I am grateful every time I come to the surface.

Now it's time to load the photos, and assess whether something at all is suitable to show :) And here the sun is already beating down, the gentle waves of blue satin shine and shimmer with silver invitingly.

I'm looking forward to the next dive.

www.nurkowanie-ecn.pl

o u r co n v e r s at i o n s

Through the lens Oksana maksymova 40

our conversations

My conversation with Oksana Maksymova, an underwater photographer, looking for the perfect shot.

Black Sea. In my youth, I was dreaming of working on research vessels that often came to our port. But life decided differently.

And diving entered my life totally unexpected and the discovery of the underwater world radically changed my life. Very soon the small camera became my diving companion. At some point, I realized that I want to take not just photos, but good Wojciech Zgoła: You take fantastic photos. Since when did

photos. Around the same time, one of my photos was award-

you start photographing underwater?

ed as a photo of the week in the quite well-known Russian

Oksana Maksymova: It seems to me that the path to the pro-

underwater photographers’ community. The decision to de-

fessional underwater photography was predetermined from

vote my life to underwater photography coincided with the

my birth. I was born in a city by the sea, thus more or less

completion of several theoretical courses on various aspects

every day from early childhood was connected with the sea.

of photography. And now for five years I am taking photos with

Many summer days were spent exploring inhabitants of the

professional equipment.

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

41

42

our conversations

We met thanks to your photos,. I liked your macro shots

types of lightening. It is exhibitions, competitions, participation

so much that I wrote to you and you agreed to share the

in different projects and meetings with admirable photogra-

photo on the Perfect Diver calendar.

phers and scientists.

I really love macro photography. Thanks to it we can see all the details of the tiny sea creatures. It is impossible to do it

Does your family dive? If so, do you spend your holidays

underwater even with a magnifying glass. Obviously it requires

diving, if not why?

special equipment and a lot of patience, but the result is worth

My daughter is not a big fan of diving. We went diving few

it. Like that, for example, I discovered that tiny 10 mm-long

times together. It seems that she was not fascinated by such

pygmy seahorse has charming pattern on the lips, that Ring-

holidays. For me personally, diving and underwater photog-

tailed Cardinalfish (Ostorhinchusaureus), male protects and

raphy are two different things. Underwater photography is

incubates eggs in the mouth and that Redhead Stylophora

not a holiday. It is something that absorbs entirely time, en-

Goby (Paragobiodonechinocephalus) has green eyes. The pho-

ergy and thoughts. However, during underwater photography

to for your calendar shows a very rare species of blue Barrel

trips I often meet associates and colleagues with who the

Sponge Porcelain Crab (Aliaporcellanaspongicola). Its size is

time is priceless.

only 6–8 mm, but we can see a lot of details.

Is Odessa a good dive site? Why? What's your occupation?

In the vicinity of Odessa there is no fascinating, rich and diverse

As previously stated, big part of my time I spend on underwa-

marine life. In addition, the visibility is poor and water is quite

ter photography and everything related to it. This is the most

cold. There are couple of spots with sunken ships for the fans

amazing and exciting part of my life. It is new knowledge and

of the wrecks. In comparison with my favourite places in South

discovery about underwater world and its inhabitants, new

East Asia, unfortunately Odessa is not better.

skills in photography, ideas and experiments with different

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

43

o u r co n v e r s at i o n s

Do you dive in both wetsuit and dry suit?

Last year I dive always with camera. Not just camera, but huge

I always dive in wetsuit. I have never tried to dive in dry suit, but

camera, flashes, lights, snoot, additional lenses and different

I am sure that i will easily learn this skill if needed.

devices that allow to try to take a good picture. It happens that 90-minute dive is not sufficient to photograph just one object.

So, you prefer warm water. Does the temperature matter

It’s hard to judge myself as a photographer. I am always not

in photographing the objects you choose?

completely happy with my work and think that I could have

As it is clear from the answer on the previous question, I prefer

done better.

warm water. It is related not only with the objects for photography but also with my personal need for warmth. I can hardly

And then what is your dream of underwater photography?

stand the cold. But in fairness, I would like to note how much

I dream to take picture that I could call a perfect one.

I admire the photos of my colleagues that were taken in the cold water.

What do you think of the garbage in the oceans? What do you think of plastic in relation to the oceans and ani-

Where do you like to take underwater photos the most?

mals? Do you encounter rubbish while diving in different

Generally.

places?

I like to take photos the most in The Coral Triangle. The Coral

It is one of the biggest tragedy of humanity. Sometimes it

Triangle is a roughly triangular area of the tropical marine wa-

seems to me that most people do not realize, how disastrous-

ters of Indonesia, Malaysia, Papua New Guinea, Philippines,

ly terrible the situation is. I was just under water when the

Solomon Islands and Timor-Leste.

current was bringing a drastic amount of plastic garbage. It is hard to explain my feelings when I had to literally rake the

44

Do you dive without a camera, with your hands free? Or

garbage with my hands. It is one of the worst feelings in my life.

never?

It is a feeling of the end of the life of the civilization.

Have you checked Perfect Diver Magazine?

And what do you think about it?

Your magazine is of a fairly high level. It is very informative and interesting with the right balance of text and visual information, not overloaded with publicity. I learned about it quite recently and I am sincerely glad that I found another place to meet enthusiastic people who are in love with the sea and its inhabitants.

Your next Covid dive plans?

Covid took away the opportunity to photograph in my favourite places. But life continues and we must try to live in new reality. There are still some destinations where it is possible to dive.

I will improve my skills with wide angle photography. Maldives, Egypt, Mexico are open if respecting certain requirements. Let’s hope for the best and that 2021 will be better and the borders for travelling will be open again.

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

45

freediving

T

his is the nation for which sport is a lifestyle.

Freediving is also for a growing group of peo-

ple. Not only in Slovenia, but we will focus on going under water in a country known as Europe in a nutshell.

Why is it said about this small country with the population of Warsaw? For several reasons. There are mountains, lowlands, the sea, beautiful lakes, thermal springs, waterfalls and vineyards on site. Plus three climate zones. Alpine, or if you prefer – mountain, Mediterranean and moderate. Before we deal with how freedivers found themselves here, we will pay attention to the sports phenomenon of Slovenia.

They have great cyclists – Tadej Pogacar won the Tour de France last year, followed by his compatriot Primoż Roglić. Young Luka Donici is one of the biggest stars of the NBA basketball league and Jan Oblak is the goalkeeper of the current leader of La Liga Atletico Madrid. Moreover, they have great handball players and can even beat our volleyball players. And we are a real power in this sport and the current world champions.

How is it possible for a nation of two million to generate such sports achievements?

– The matter is complex and simple at the same time – Paweł Kranc begins. He is the founder of visitslovenia.pl portal and probably the best informed citizen of our country in Slovenian matters. – First of all, the spending of free time outside is in their blood.

FreeSlovenia Text krzysztof jarzyna

It is a generational tradition here that at the weekend – especially in mountain towns, whole villages go for long walks. In addition, the terrain helps them – they have beautiful mountains. Hence the passion for winter sports. I will never forget the first time I spent New Years Eve and New Years Day in Bled. When I woke up and looked out my hotel window, I saw a crowd of people outside. At different ages. Some

Samo Jeranko

were running, others were going with cross-country skis to Pokljuka – still others were getting ready to go alpine skiing. It was 9 am on New Years Day. Each of us knows

Slovenes fell in love with freediving like Poles did in winter swimming. If they opted for that second activity, they would not be bare-chested in the beautiful Julian Alps in winter, they would only do it wisely and join other sports they practice.

what the activity of Poles looks like then – he concluded.

Of course, there are more reasons for the Slovenian sporting phenomenon. We must remember that not only in Slovenia, but also in the entire former Yugoslavia, sport was a window to the world, a chance to leave the country and a better life. Let us add that Slovenian cities are not large – it is easy to make decisions in such centers and it is easier to organize the lives of young people for sports. And the matter of sports educators – they are so well rewarded that they do not have

46

freediving

Photo Paweł Kranc, visitslowenia.pl

Photo Emilia Biała

Samo Jeranko

to grab a few magpies by the tail. Here a PE teacher at school,

Alenka Artnik broke 2 world records in 2020. Whenever there is

half at a club and a few contracts for a job besides children's

a world championship in freediving in the area, it is very loud

sports. It's not in Slovenia.

about it. And this helps a lot in the popularity and promotion

Now, the most important thing, we are going under the

of the discipline, he concluded.

water. Samo Jeranko is an excellent and titled freediver on the

Finally, a few words of freediving in Poland. We dream of an

international arena and you could meet him quite recently at

explosion of popularity similar to Slovenia, and it is possible,

Deepspot. – Freediving is extremely popular in Slovenia. Ten or

especially when people like Emilia Biała infect with that sport.

fifteen years ago it was all about spearfishing. But today people

Unusual energy, wisdom and distance to life and the world.

enjoy pure freediving in pools, lakes and the Adriatic Sea. All of

– Freediving for me is a clean, simple and very personal form

us who are involved in the sport in some way work very hard

of contact with water, nature, but also with myself. It is a tool

to promote it as the perfect combination of sport, excitement

of self-discovery for me. It is a journey between two breaths

and relaxation. Not to mention that we also have very strong

– the one just before descending and the one after reaching

athletes who win medals and break world records like Alenka

the surface. A journey in which time ceases to flow, where the

Artnik, Andrej Roprte and me – he concluded modestly.

voices from outside become irrelevant, and where there is only

We also asked him where in Slovenia the freediving adven-

a moment "here and now" and we are immersed in it: there

ture usually begins. – We have a culture of spending summer

is no place here for contemplating the events of the past and

holidays on the Adriatic, where you always have a mask and

worries about the unknown future. It is for these few moments

a pipe with you. Besides, we go freediving in Bled Lake – one

when everything comes together, and of which we are a part,

of the most beautiful places in the world. From a sports per-

long preparations, long expeditions and trainings take place.

spective, I hope it will one day become more popular than

It can be a bit addictive… – she assessed. After Emilia's words,

swimming. We are working on it, he said.

don't you feel like diving without a cylinder and a mask? Does

It is also worth mentioning the topic of the international

anyone have any doubts that the Slovenes are a unique na-

successes of Slovenian freedivers. Samo sees it as follows.

tion and that it is necessary to visit their country and make an

– The whole nation is very active. We have athletes who are

appointment with Samo, for example, to go underwater in the

successful in many disciplines. And it is similar with free diving.

crystal clear Bled Lake? We do not want to believe...

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

47

a r c h a e o l og y

The Baltic Sea 1000 years ago Text mateusz popek

Photos wikimedia commons

Haithabu, a medieval settlement, the largest Nordic city in the Viking era and at the same time the oldest (next to the existing Ribe) Danish city

Norway was taken over by Olaf Trygvasson, and Sweden was

Whenever we are on the beach and look at the Baltic Sea, there is always a ship on the horizon heading towards a port known only to itself.

ruled by Olaf Skötkonung. The ruler of Poland, Bolesław the Brave, dominated the southern coast of the Baltic Sea, and in the east it bordered with the Baltic tribe of Prussia. The eastern ends of the sea were areas under the rule of the Russian ruler Vladimir the Great. Each of these tough and distinguished rulers waged wars for which they needed a lot of money, obtained, among other things, from trade. One of the main arenas of this

T

trade was the Baltic Sea, covered with a network of trade routes. he port it arrives at is crowded with other ships and goods

These trade routes had to lead "somewhere." After all, it

that are reloaded to continue their journey. Have you ever

would be impossible to carry out an intensive exchange with-

wondered what the sea looked like 1000 years ago? Were there

out specially prepared places. Such places were ports some-

occasional boats landing at the beach to exchange goods with

times called proto-cities or simply cities by scientists. We learn

the local people? Or was it full of merchant ships bound for

about the greatness and splendor of these cities thanks to Arab

the crowded harbors?

travelers or European chroniclers. This is what the chronicler

Before answering these questions, it may be worth saying

48

Adam of Bremen said about one of the cities:

what was happening around this small sea at that time. About

The Oder is the richest river in Slavonia. At its mouth stands the

1,000 years ago, in the Scandinavian countries strong rulers

dignified city of Jumneta, a center greatly visited by barbarians

started their reign. Denmark was ruled by Sveyn Forkbeard.

and Greeks living around. This is indeed the largest among the

archaeology

Birka, medieval city, Björkö island

For decades, scientists have argued where the legendary Truso lies and whether it exists at all. But thanks to the work of archaeologists, it was possible to establish that a mysterious Viking trading post was situated near today's Elbląg in Poland.

Through the words of Adam of Bremen about the Greeks and Viking age stone, Gotland, Sweden

barbarians living in Wolin, we can perceive the multiculturalism of the inhabitants of Jumne.

European cities. It is home to Slavs and other nationalities, Greeks

But Wolin was not the only big city in the Baltic Sea. The

and barbarians. This city, rich in all the goods of the North, has

coasts of this sea were dotted with larger and smaller harbors,

every conceivable pleasure and rarities.

bays, and berths for ships. On the Jutland peninsula, which is

The mysterious Jumneta is located by scientists in the cur-

now Denmark, there was another huge commercial center,

rent city of Wolin. As Adam of Bremen recalls, it was the largest

Haithabu (Hedeby). It could now be said that Hedeby was a com-

city in the Baltic Sea. Thanks to the work of archaeologists,

petition for Wolin. Commercial life flourished there, too. It is

more is known about him. The city itself was divided into dis-

interesting that for a time Haithabu had the status of a "free city"

tricts where there were numerous craft workshops that pro-

and anyone could look for a fortune here. We don't know exactly

duced luxury items distributed by merchants throughout Eu-

for what purpose, but it is from there that the English trader and

rope. There was also a market where goods were bought and

traveler Wulfstan of Hedeby set off. After boarding the ship, for

sold. The city couldn't have functioned if it hadn't been for the

seven days and nights he sailed east to Truso between the land

great port, which was able to accommodate up to 300 ships.

of the Venedi tribe and the Witland belonging to the Ests.

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

49

Viking barge

It was commented in the following words by a poet named Abu Yaqub Ali ibn Gabala, claiming that: Slavic locusts are literally clogging the streets of Baghdad. After all, money had to be taken from somewhere for the numerous wars Birka, Björkö

waged around the Baltic Sea. From Nowogord, we will sail west to a city called Birka,

50

For decades, scientists have argued where the legendary

which was located near contemporary Stockholm, Sweden.

Truso lies and whether it exists at all. But thanks to the work of

Birka was one of the largest ports of early medieval Sweden,

archaeologists, it was possible to establish that a mysterious Vi-

located on an island in Lake Mälaren. Like the cities mentioned

king trading post was situated near today's Elbląg in Poland. On

before, a thousand years ago this place was also a shopping

the other hand, the land of the Venedi tribe was dominated by

center. This is best evidenced by richly equipped graves of the

the Slavs, and the Witland was an area inhabited by the Baltic

deceased who were surrounded by numerous objects from

tribes known as the Prussians. This huge center was identical

far away. However, despite their wealth, or perhaps because

to Hedeby and was probably founded by the Danish Vikings.

of that, the inhabitants of this city had to protect themselves

It was there that trade with the Balts and Slavs was controlled,

against attacks of sea robbers. In order to make it difficult for

and also from here the trail continued towards Byzantium. We

pirates to enter the port, they built a palisade, the tips of which

do not know if Wulfstan moved further east, but more than

were only a dozen or so centimetres below the water surface. So

one merchant from Truso went further northeast to Novgorod

it was possible to enter Birka only using a local guide, and any-

the Great.

one with impure intentions would have an unpleasant surprise.

The city was founded by the Vikings called here Rus or Va-

This way we have made a circle around the Baltic Sea, a sea

rangians. This port controlled trade between the Baltic Sea and

that 1000 years ago was dotted with ships and ports. I have

the Byzantine Empire. It was from here that merchants traveled

only described the largest of them, but there were certainly

south with furs, forest produce and slaves south to bring back

many more. However, these cities would not have arisen if

silk and Arab coins. The latter archaeologists find around all

it were not for the Viking traders or pirates, accepting Scan-

proto-cities on the Baltic Sea. They show how intense trade with

dinavians, Slavs and Finns into their ranks. It was they who

the Middle East was conducted. On the other hand, slaves were

powered this trading network, and the remains of ports, buried

the most desirable goods exported to the East. How do we

treasures of Arab coins and much more are found by archae-

know that it was slaves who were such desirable commodity?

ologists on land and under water today.

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We present to you the offer of the Northern Diver company – a heated vest with an internal battery. The vest has been designed and manufactured with the comfort of the diver in mind.

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www.nurkowyswiat.pl perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

51

k n ow l e dg e

Full awareness diving Text and photos Krzysztof Dziech

In 1979, Jon Kabat-Zinn, a MIT graduate holding a PhD in molecular biology, came upon the idea to introduce his private meditation practices based on the Buddhist “full consciousness” method into the hospital environment, both among patients and personnel.

G

enerally, his purpose was to reduce stress levels. This is how Mindfulness-Based Stress Reduction came to life –

a protocol grounded in classical Buddhist psychology (however, in-depth research shows that its roots may be traced back to each philosophical and religious system, to a large extent also in the Judeo-Christian tradition) and at the same time based on classical medicine, psychology and knowledge of the western world.

I encourage those of you who would like to extend their knowledge on that topic to read specialized compilations and spend some time to think about it and research the matter.

52

knowledge

My challenge was to accurately transpose the program into diving, taking into account time and organizational constraints. The final result is an intensive eight-day period aimed at achieving full awareness, getting used to this state and maintaining it.

Later in the article I will use a number of terms and phrases

I continued my search and individual experiments (on

that all originate from one source – the book “Mindfulness

myself, as these are the best...) and there came some “reve-

Meditation for everyday life” written by Kabat-Zinn himself and

lations”, but there was no system. I will spare you the details

published in London in 2001. They will be useful to understand

on the number of specialists in neuroscience, psychology

the idea behind my program (protocol), which I would call “Full

and even psychiatry I contacted to answer a vexing ques-

awareness diving”.

tion: Is underwater meditation possible and what benefits

However, we should start from three logical questions: “How did I came up with the idea?”, “How to do it?” and “What is it intended for?”.

it may have?

A turning point was taking in an 8-week MBSR seminar in Nice, conducted by doctor Fulvien Mazzola, one of the first students of Kabat-Zinn. Then I came up with the idea:

“How did I came up with the idea?”

During my 20-year diving adventure as a diver, instructor and instructor trainer, it dawned on me many times that my system is missing something; until one time, during a long so-

“How to do it?”

And that is how I started climbing a high mountain in order to take a proportionately deep dive...

lo-dive, I spontaneously applied my regular meditation prac-

To put it very simply, this is how it looked like. Each of the

tices during diving – the discovery could be compared with

eight weeks of the MBSR course covers a separate topic: be

a flash of insight “and that is what this is all about...” and so it all

present, breathing awareness, obstacles and distractions,

started. As it usually happens with similar discoveries, I started

allow and accept, presence of thoughts...

researching. After the series of attacks in Paris in 2015, the me-

My challenge was to accurately transpose the program

dia informed that the victims were treated for post traumatic

into diving, taking into account time and organizational con-

shock through diving practices proposed by the Bathysmed

straints. The final result is an intensive eight-day period aimed

team. Without much hesitation, I contacted the director of

at achieving full awareness, getting used to this state and main-

the project and it turned out that course participants (eyewit-

taining it. I was delighted to have the protocol accepted and

nesses of the attacks) are offered relaxation and underwater

welcomed by a number of specialist, including also the dean

sophrology rather than meditation.

of the Medical Faculty of the University of Nice.

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

53

k n ow l e dg e

An now some details on the program

not good enough and certainly something will go wrong, and

“What if” is the phrase that each technical diver keeps an-

my achievements will not last forever. This session teaches you

alyzing for hours; Kabat-Zinn proposes instead “Now what”,

to be present in a given moment in the context of changing

so what is my reality right now? In that context the participant

surroundings and experiences (as part of the exercise I use

follows a series of simple exercises to be performed in a giv-

a DPV and the help of an experienced assistant).

en time and with a specified number of repetitions, in order

“Dignity” – if the body position is creased, unnatural, too

to meet themselves in full awareness of their body in zero

stiff or simply careless, it reflects the lack of internal energy,

gravity, their breath visualized by the voice of a breath cycle

passivity and lack of clarity. This term accompanies many ex-

and environment interaction.

ercises in the entire session, especially when interaction with

“Keeping the breath in mind” – is a necessary support

your equipment or natural environment is involved.

for reaching open mindfulness, where the breath is like an anchor rope between the ship, tossed by our intrusive thoughts and the so-called “old ghosts” (experienced divers know what

After this short and sketchy presentation of the program, let’s proceed to the last question:

I mean), and the anchor embedded deep in our consciousness. The breathing session is the introduction to the entire

Initially, the program was addressed to communities evolv-

that issue, but do they really allow you to discover the “quality”

ing in a stress-inducing context as a barrier against increased

of breathing in diving and its impact on your diving experience,

stress levels or to persons with traumatic experiences. The

as well as the way awareness of breath “quality” changes re-

protocol may also be used as an element to support the effect

flects the diver’s psychological and emotional state?

of psychological therapy administered by a specialist. (I delib-

“Non-Judging” – there is no assessment of the meditation process or exercise performed that could cause fear that I am

54

“What is it intended for?”

program. It could seem that many diver training systems cover

erately do not use the term “therapy”, as people who are not physicians are not allowed to administer it.)

advertisement

However, it quickly turned out that the program offers an excellent tool for mental preparation of divers before long dives in demanding conditions. In the nearest future it will be presented as an element of training

IT’S A COLD WORLD OUT THERE.

future instructors.

Ultimately, the program is intended for everyone who wish to improve their “diving life quality” or simply discover themselves in a new context. The result of such an approach was that already at the stage of early thoughts the decision was made to set the maximum immersion depth at 6 m for

BUT BARE KEEPS YOU WARM ON EVERY DIVE.

the entire session, as pursuant to the French law, such immersion does not require any diving level.

To summarize, I think that I created a tool rooted in prolonged introspection, tests and consultations that may accelerate your life's adventure with mindfulness; for me it became a way to discover diving and (not only) in a state of full awareness.

As a supplement, I encourage you to read a text by a diver who was the first participant of that experimental project and now is my assistant: "Diving is a demanding sports discipline; confrontation with the equipment, natural environment, theory and its application in practice requires a lot of discipline, concentration and commitment, which in practice may provoke stress-inducing situations. The practice of conscious diving allowed me to improve my technique, assess the situation better and more quickly and discover new experiences underwater.

With time practicing “mindfulness” also started to impact other areas and situations in my life. Conscious approach towards difficulties and challenges allowed me to limit the tensions caused by unexpected situations."

– Sławomir Chiniewicz

WWW.NURKOWANIE-ECN.PL

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k n ow l e dg e

Is it worth participating in wreck and marine diving training?

Text and photos maciej posłuszny

ing courses. In this article I will write why it is worth completing

Do I really need another specialization, another certificate? Actually I don't need it as I only dive in warm waters, in good conditions… nothing can possibly go wrong.

T

Here it is better to trust the experience gained. Safety is the undisputed priority in diving. Which direction our development will take depends only on us, and only the necessary knowledge and skills can guarantee it. Certainly no one will deny that technological advances have entered diving with great bang: both technical and recreational diving. Companies are trying to outdo each other inventing more and more hardware innovations. What was once available only to a small group of

hese questions are often asked by both divers and those

enthusiasts, today is almost a common form of spending free

who are just starting their adventure with diving. I would

time. Distant diving sites, deep wrecks, caves are no longer

like to address this article to all skeptics who deny the sense of

56

the marine and wreck diving course...

an obstacle.

further courses and gaining knowledge, as well as those who

In all this rush, we often forget about our own safety. This

would like to improve their skills in the future at various train-

is what the courses and specializations are for. As I mentioned

knowledge

at the beginning, today I am looking at the WRECK AND MA-

compass or flashlight?

RINE DIVING COURSE KDP PTTK CMAS. Why KDP CMAS??? The

●● Why is it not allowed to swim inside the wreck?

answer is simple: it is a federation of which I am an instructor,

●● Do you realize that even shallow dives in poor conditions

and I consider its standards and level of training to be one of the best, giving the best results and skills that we can need during every, not only 'sea' dive.

can be extremely dangerous? ●● Can you cut yourself off the fishing net? Can you use cutting tools? ●● Do you have knowledge of the rules governing vessels?

What is the purpose of the MARINE AND WRECK DIVING spe-

●● Do you know the legal aspects of wreck diving?

cialization?

I could ask endless questions like this, but it is important ●● CDo you know that the Baltic Sea is a very changeable and dangerous place for diving? ●● Can you prepare technically and in terms of equipment for the conditions you may encounter? ●● Are you able to efficiently and safely use a reel, buoy, spool,

that you realize whether the answers to these questions are important to you. Doing a shipwreck specialization allows you not only to do wreck diving, but also improves general diving skills, thanks to which regular diving will give you a greater sense of security. Specialization is not only a document,

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

57

sponsored article

During the MARINE AND WRECK DIVING training, we provide theoretical and practical knowledge in a very extensive content. We perform all exercises with wreck diving equipment in safe and friendly waters, at very shallow depths. Here it usually turns out that the simple use of fixing ropes, handling the reel and the simultaneous use of the flashlight can turn out to be very complicated, and if there is a sudden deterioration of visibility, our diving can turn into a drama or even a fight for life. Without this preparation, I cannot imagine diving on wrecks. It is these exercises that are an essential element and the whole heart of the training.

Only when you are ready to take up the challenge of the Baltic Sea do we begin the adventure and exam in sea conditions. From the description it may seem serious, and indeed, everything is carried out under the strict supervision of a qual-

58

but above all new experience and skills. That is why further

ified instructor. The WRECK and MARINE DIVING specialization

education is worthwhile. As an instructor, my job is to guide

has a great impact on the diver's development, increases their

you, show you the way, train you and prepare you for what

skills and self-esteem. Try it and you will see for yourself. I am

may happen to you underwater, so that you can safely return

sure that each of you will be satisfied and you will not consider

to your families after each dive.

this training a waste of time!

k n ow l e dg e

Philip Finch Diving into Darkness: A True Story of Death and Survival Published September 30th 2008

by St. Martin's Press, 320 pages

Diving into Darkness: A True Story of Death and Survival by

right or not, the author does not reflect on this topic, present-

Phillip Finch is a book for divers, which is difficult to pass by

ing the main character as a hero and even a role model. From

indifferently. I think most divers know this story, if not from

start to finish, Dave is described in superlatives and as a role

the book, then from the movie, or from the evening's chats

model of diving virtues. Which in my opinion is quite danger-

over a beer, and probably everyone has an opinion on the

ous, because this dive is harshly assessed by a large part of

hero of this story.

the diving community, and presenting this dive as a heroic act

The book tells the story of a pilot David Shaw, who discovers

may bring followers of such behavior. Apart from the moral

the secrets of diving. At one point on his way he meets the div-

and ethical aspect, we get a good story with lots of interesting

ing instructor Don Shirley. From this point on, the story gains

information about diving. Phillip Finch is a journalist, so the

momentum. We see more record-breaking dives, exploring

book is well written and light, which makes reading great.

the world of rebreathers and cave diving. Everything is perfect

Despite the lack of distance to this story, which as a journal-

until in 2004 in Boesmansgat Cave (Bushman's Hole), during

ist Finch should keep, it is worth reading this book for several

his record dive at a depth of approx. 270 m, he finds the body

reasons. First of all, it describes one of the most famous diving

of a diver. Dave Shaw decides to bring up the discovered body

actions in the world. Secondly, it is worth verifying the story

of Deon Dreyer. From that moment on, the book guides us

heard over the beer with "the source". Third, it is an interesting

through the preparation and course of this fatal dive, which it

report. I think that it is worth getting to know this story but

is worth emphasizing was recorded.

maintaining the distance and carefully following the events.

The first thing that strikes in this publication is the author's lack of distance. Regardless of whether Shaw's behavior was

Mateusz Popek

r e v i e w

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

59

planet earth

What cheeps in the reeds little things with moustache

Text and photos wojciech jarosz

This time, I would like to propose to the readers of Perfect Diver a story about birds that do not dive, or even swim, and at the very most plunge into a thicket of reeds.

60

planet earth

A

s we know, reeds grow by the waters, so divers and oth-

languages. There are moustaches, sideburns and beards, for

er water sports enthusiasts may enjoy a rendezvous (or

example: panure à mustaches (French), basettino (Italian), beard-

maybe even tete-a-tete) with these beautiful creatures during

ed reedling (English), Bartmeise (German) or sýkořice vousatá

their aquatic activities (for example, when preparing for un-

(Czech). In turn, the Latin name Panurus biarmicus refers to the

derwater adventures). By the water you can meet a whole

long tail and the legendary land of Biarmia, located in the Kama

menagerie of birds living in the coastal zone, including those

and Dvina basin on the White Sea, where the bearded reedling

associated with rushes. Perhaps there will be an opportunity

is not present today. Birds of this species are found in Europe

to look at more species together, but this time let's focus on

and Asia as far as north-eastern China, and their distribution

the bearded reedlings.

has the so-called patchy character. This means that they live

Although it happens that the species names of animals, as

only in strictly defined, suitable for them types of habitats. In

well as plants, are not clear to us in the context of their origin

Poland, it is a rare bird (about 1.8-2.5 thousand pairs), the most

(it seems that an attempt to guess the sources of inspiration for

common in the north and west of the country. The appearance

the creators of such names must be ineffective), in the case of

of the bearded reedlings in Warsaw caused quite a stir among

the Polish name of the bearded reedling (literally "moustached

local ornithologists and bird-lovers, and the eagerly spied on

bird"), everything is as it should be. The male part of the beard-

male even became a celebrity in local social media. Somehow,

ed reedling family is equipped with a thick moustache – black

no one spotted the female among the reeds at that time, de-

spots in the right place and in the right shape. Females and

spite the fact that bearded reedlings are very outgoing birds,

youngsters do not have a moustache, which does not arouse

and lonely individuals are rarely seen.

any objections as, after all, it is consistent with the rule con-

The size of the moustache population fluctuates significant-

cerning our species. References to this conspicuous detail in

ly. Sudden weather breakdown in early spring, including late

the appearance of the bearded reedlings are also seen in other

and heavy snowfall, is among the causes of the rapid popula-

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

61

62

tion decline. Changes in meteorological conditions affect the

Bearded reedlings try to cope with the decline in their num-

availability of food, and it should be emphasised that bearded

ber by reproducing. They can bring out four or even five broods

reedlings eat one type of food when it is warm and something

a year (although most often not all are successful), which can

else when the cold season comes. During the growing sea-

translate into as many as 20 young birds per season! It is

son, the bearded reedlings are connoisseurs of invertebrates,

possible because the brood begins in early spring and may

mainly insects. In winter, however, they become vegetarians,

overlap in time. The birds with not yet completed brood were

switching to a plant-based diet, the basic ingredient of which

observed, which laid eggs again in another nest. In such a situa-

is reed seeds. In order for an insect-eater to cope with hard

tion, the female incubates new eggs, in which the partner helps

grains, it must adapt its digestive system to a different type of

her irregularly and as much as possible, as he spends most of

food. In the stomachs of the bearded reedlings special growths

the time feeding the young from the previous brood. Feeding is

appear, which, together with the swallowed grit, form a kind

done in an interesting way, because, just like in birds that breed

of quern that grinds the seeds. It has been observed that the

in tree hollows, the young change places clockwise so that not

unavailability of small grit may be a problem for the birds and

only the most active is fed. The parent does not always have

the reason for leaving the habitat rich in all other resourc-

a chance to see to which chick's beak they are putting food in,

es important to them. When winter is over, the birds switch

because their nests are hidden in the dark of reed thickets, and

to predation again, and when winter returns unexpectedly,

what's more, their structure can be topped with a roof made

the insects disappear and bearded reedlings have a serious

of leaves from surrounding plants. The nests of the bearded

culinary problem that could contribute to the decline of such

reedlings are also interesting for other reasons. There are,

a population. Fluctuations in water level are another factor

for example, eggs embedded in the nest, because the laying

influencing the number of these birds. Rising water levels

of eggs can take place before the construction of the nest is

may close access to their favourite nesting sites, which in turn

completed. Often, the nests of birds from the same population

prompts birds to migrate to find new breeding sites.

are close to each other and after hatching, the young join the

planet earth

group, becoming part of it and wandering around the breeding area. The young birds grow fast and the young males from the first broods start to sing in the first summer, which is an exceptional phenomenon. Then it comes to the so-called engagement, when young individuals form pairs in which they will breed in the next season. Surprisingly in passerine birds, and at the same time extremely romantic from a human point of view, these couples can survive a whole bearded life!

At the end of summer, the birds undergo exceptional moulting. It is a complete replacement of all feathers, which is rare in small European birds, and which makes all individuals – young and adult, males and females look similar. Once they are dressed in new clothes, they start to wonder if they should go somewhere else. Bearded reedlings are sedentary and migrating birds, but they sometimes wander.

The preludes to wandering are the so-called "high flights", which are unusual, as basically everything that is concerned with the bearded reedlings. The increasingly excited birds gather together, making incredible noise and at the same time the whole group suddenly shoots up vertically upwards. After a while, some individuals descend and hide in the reeds, and the rest rises high, changing directions again and again. After such a high flight, the birds return to the familiar rushes.

Keep an eye on the reeds and look out for the beerded reedlings, because it's worth getting an eyeful of them!

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Let’s talk about diving

Portugal 2021

63

tips

& curiosities ACADEMY

Text Wojciech A. Filip down very fast. Frequently, specific numbers are added to this

We lose the most heat through our heads…

Truth or myth?

theory: through our head, we lose 40, 50 and – according to the boldest theories – even 70% of our body heat. This must mean that on a very cold winter day, we could be wearing a hat and at the same time take off our jacket or trousers and we should

I

feel rather warm. n 1950, the US Army conducted several tests to prove that

This research, conducted on volunteers and widely com-

humans lose most of their body heat through the uncovered

mented over 70 years ago, was done in a directed, not quite

head.

64

objective manner. Relatively warm clothing and no hat resulted

Just think how many times have you heard this was actually

in subjects exposed to freezing cold feeling the chill in the head

true? In other words, not wearing a hat would cause us to cool

region and this was the precise site where they were losing the

tips & curiosities

ACADEMY

A diving hat Photo Przemysław Zyber

most heat. Additionally, the upper respiratory tract, nose and

It was only in 2008 when Canadian researchers wrote the

cheeks, no fatty tissue and barely constricting blood vessels

paper entitled: „Shivering heat production and core cooling during

sharpened this feeling even more. Let us imagine someone

head-in and head-out immersion in 17°C water” where we can

standing in the freezing cold and dressed appropriately, but

read about an approach to the question of losing heat through

with one foot completely exposed – what are the chances he

the head that is more accurate and more relevant for us, divers.

won’t feel cold precisely in that foot?

Not many people bothered to analyze this issue any further – the US Army had (and has) been the paragon of numerous

It turned out that the loss of heat through the head is nearly directly proportional to the percentage of the head surface as compared to the rest of the body.

techniques used in everyday life. As a result, 70 years later

Therefore: the surface of our head is 9–11% of our body’s

we still hear that the most important thing is a warm hat…

surface and, if left uncovered, this is the percentage of heat

or a hood.

loss we should be talking about.

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

65

ACADEMY

Is a very thick hood best for cold water?

Companies known for manufacturing the best hoods barely

Is it possible, that your hood is “heating” your more in a wet-

use neoprene thicker than 7 mm. Instead, they opt for one

suit than in a drysuit?

that – thanks to its flexibility – fits the diver more closely at

What should be taken into consideration when choosing

places critical for the reduction of water flow throughout

a hood?

the dive.

So 5 mm is better than 10 mm?

An important topic for every diver – don’t hesitate to read!

If we simplify the neoprene compression part a lot, that would be true.

At 10 meters, 2 atmospheres of pressure squeeze the hood

Your hood is an important component of your diving equip-

so much that only half of its thickness, as measured on sur-

ment. Yet its significance seems to be a bit obscure from the

face, remains. So a 10 mm neoprene hood will be about 5 mm

technical point of view. It works very similar to a wetsuit.

thick, and a hood that is 5 mm initially will become 2.5 mm at

Wetsuit thickness is important; however, from a certain mo-

10 meters.

ment on, it becomes far more important, how much water

Keep in mind that our thermal comfort highly depends on the

enters under the wetsuit!

volume of water constantly flowing between our body and the

How can it enter under the wetsuit? After all, it fits my body

neoprene – the bigger the space for water, the lower your ther-

very snugly?

mal comfort will be.

We know neoprene shrinks as pressure rises: the deeper you

In a 10 mm hood at 10 meters under water, we will have

dive, the “less” neoprene you’ve got. The biggest change can be

2.5 mm room for cold water between the neoprene and

observed between the surface and 12–15 meters under water.

our skin, whereas in a 5 mm hood – half the room, namely

Below this point, the process loses its momentum and from

1.25 mm. Hey, so is the thinner one actually warmer? 

35 meters onwards it becomes hardly noticeable (the density of neoprene has risen so much that it stops shrinking and

Designers are relentlessly seeking new solutions – the best

starts to become permanently damaged – more on this later).

results are achieved by those who dive themselves, design-

Why would water penetrate under my suit anyway? This is

ing solutions that allow to use thick hoods as well. One of

quite easy: with depth, neoprene becomes thinner on both

the simplest solutions is to use two thicknesses of neoprene:

sides – i.e. both from the side of the water and your body,

a smooth, 5 mm one wherever it should fit closely to your face

which means it becomes more loosely fitted. As a result, the

and neck, and a thicker one in other parts of the hood.

deeper we dive, the more room there is for water between

What is worth taking into account is the fact that most divers

our suit and our body. Cold water, flowing in through the

do not bother with the designers’ dilemmas and simply buy

neck area and the long zipper, requires more intense effort

a hood which is the easiest to put on or that matches the rest

from our body in order to heat it and we feel more and

of their gear color, which, after all, might not be such a bad

more cold.*

solution. The average diving time for beginners is 35–40 minutes and we know already that heat loss through the head is

The case is quite the same with the hood, although, unlike

not that big; additionally, our face and the rest of our head

the wetsuit, a well-fitted hood may reduce the inflow of fresh

adjust relatively quickly to low temperatures, so the hood

cold water.

we like most might be quite a good choice at this stage of

If we consider diving in cold water to approx. 20 meters, al-

our diving! 

most any hood that is 5–7 mm thick will provide adequate

66

thermal comfort.

*A diver in a wetsuit, at a greater depth, is feeling an increasing

You can limit inflow of fresh water between the hood and your

cold at first, then – for some time – they feel quite comfortable,

head by wearing hoods fitted with a broad stripe of smooth

and when their personal capabilities for heating the water running

neoprene around the face opening and the neck, almost “stick-

between the wetsuit and the body run out, they start to feel colder

ing” to our skin. Additionally, if we happen to find a model

and colder. Everyone will experience those changes to a different

fitting closely to our neck on its entire length, our comfort will

degree and after a different time. In order to limit those changes,

increase further.

divers wear drysuits with appropriate undersuits to minimize the

Thickness of the hood's neoprene remains a questionable issue.

heat exchange between the body and the water.

tips & curiosities

ACADEMY

Technical and cave diving

around wrecks or caves and therefore turn their heads a lot.

This means the hood cannot be too thick on the nape, as it

The situation changes with the time and the depth of a dive.

would limit unrestrained head movements, at the same time

Technical/cave divers barely ever use wetsuits. They do not

possibly causing CO2 retention. The labyrinth valve should be

use neoprene drysuits with variable parameters (divers div-

located at the top of the hood or extend slightly downwards

ing at the depth of a couple of meters in very cold water are

(beginner divers often swim with their head tilted a little bit

an exception), but rather piece together comprehensive in-

down, which may have a number of unfavorable consequenc-

sulation systems that minimize heat loss through the largest

es that might become dangerous in technical diving – some

parts of the diver’s body, using high-performance undersuits

hoods have their labyrinth valves located very low, which may

or heating systems.

cause trouble in more advanced dives. Read more from me on

As we already know, we may lose about 10 % of body heat

the influence of head position on a diver’s safety in previous

through our heads. Although this is no way near 50 %, it's still

Perfect Diver issues). The face opening should be as small as

something worth fighting for to choose an appropriate hood.

practical, preventing the hood from getting pulled away from

A challenge for designers are hoods for divers who move

the face when using a DPV.

Photo Wojtek Filip

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

67

ACADEMY

During diving in warm and very warm water, low heat loss

A solution would be hoods made of very flexible neoprene

through the head might feel like you don’t need a hood at all.

or ones with mixed design, where thinner neoprene in the

You should bear in mind, however, that in confined spaces it

mandible area is used.

is very easy to get small scrapes on your head, which a hood protects us against. If it happened in salty water, even tiny

Design fun facts

scratches would heal for a very long time.

It is much better to wear even a thin hood which you can al-

The labyrinth valve is a system of small apertures located

ways take off when in open water 

in the central part of the hood. These apertures let the air the diver exhales through their nose escape from the hood.

Complications

In hoods not fitted with such a valve, the air exhaled through the nose may accumulate between the hood and the head,

Neoprene compression

creating a growing gas bubble.

One of the biggest pains for hood manufacturers. As the per-

Depending on the model/manufacturer, the aperture may be

centage of technical divers is much smaller than the recreation-

located at the top of the head or further towards the nape.

al ones, the issue with permanent neoprene compression at

Near the apertures, the hood is composed of two layers of

greater depths is solved by… replacing the hood with a new

neoprene. Apertures in the external layer are located closer

one. It however does not change the fact that the vast majority

to the head. As a result, the exhaled air will flow through the

of hoods irrevocably lose 30–40 % of their thickness when div-

apertures closer to the head first, then moving a bit further

ing at 50–60 meters. The results are even worse when diving

to find the apertures through which it escapes from the hood.

at over 75–80 meters where permanent neoprene compres-

Such a system significantly reduces water inflow into the hood

sion rates may reach 50 % and more (permanent compression

which would be the case if the apertures leading outwards

meaning that after ascent the hood remains very thin forever).

from the inside of the hood were placed in-line.

Deep dives, at depth of over 100–120 meters, are an interesting case. Here it turns out that not many hoods qualify for being re-used after a single dive due to the permanent compression if the diving time exceeded 30 minutes.

It might seem weird: after a 30-minute dive ad 120 m, my hood turns into a piece of junk?

Look at the hoods of divers who do deep dives in cold water all the time. Despite a very wide range of products offered in the market, what you will notice on those divers’ heads are only 2–3 brands of manufacturers making really good hoods.

Permanent neoprene compression also causes an unnecessary discomfort in the decompression phase after very deep dives in cold water. The general feeling of cold (including related to vasoconstriction) might be unnecessarily sharpened due to a loose hood that had fitted closely at the beginning of the dive. Additionally, if the last diving phase involves a DPV, the discomfort increases, and the only solution could be a back-up hood deposited along with your gas at 21 meters.

Too tight hood design around the mandible The pressure exercised on your mandible during long dives causes automatic muscle flexing, which results in headache during decompression. Pulling the hood backwards and releasing your mandible unseals the meticulously devised face-fitting system.

Drawing Bartłomiej Trzciński

68

tips & curiosities

ACADEMY

Choosing a hood for wet and drysuits The length of the hood depends on the type of suit you are

Hoods with a longer neck, ending with a small collar at the neck

wearing. In a wetsuit, we can limit the water flow using a very

base, are used in drysuits with latex or silicone neck seals. Such

long hood with the neck additionally flaring at the bottom. In

suits are usually fitted with an additional, outer seal protection

that case, we put the suit over that part of the hood. After

for sliding the hood neck under it.

zipping up the suit, not only is the hood better sealed, but so does the suit in its upper part.

Photo Przemysław Żytek Source: www.hendersoneurope.com/Insta-Dry-hood-d120

Long hair For warm water diving, we usually use short neck hoods.

In drysuits (I am ignoring suits with an integrated hood, where

If you prefer wearing hair long, you should stow it in the main

hoods are a permanent part of the suits) there are two types

part of the hood so it won’t unseal the connection with the

of hoods to chose from: those with short necks are used when

drysuit flange (this does not apply to wetsuits).

a drysuit is fitted with a neoprene neck seal. The connection

For such people, a good solution would be a hood made of

between the smooth hood inner part finishing and the smooth

neoprene with increased flexibility.

neoprene on the flange should be as long as possible to ensure a good seal.

Ensuring a close fit after a time When buying a new hood, keep in mind that after some 10 hours under water, it will start adapting to your face’s shape.

It means it makes no sense to buy a hood which is too loose and will prove to be oversized after some time. If the face opening of the hood is very small and it would ideally be 1–2 cm larger, we can adjust it to our needs: ●● put your hood on in front of a mirror and use a crayon to mark a line where there is “too much” hood; ●● on a flat surface, cut the marked parts with a sharp knife; ●● if you need to cut out a piece where the hood is sewn then, after cutting and before trying the hood on again, cover the area with flexible glue, e.g. Aquasure, in order to protect the seam, and leave it to dry for 20 hours.

Photo Przemysław Żytek

perfectdiver No. 1(13)/2021

69

ACADEMY

Hood strength

Double hood

The hood, just like an often worn hat, wears out. If you also dive

For demanding dives, some people wear two hoods one over

deep, then your hood could use a dozen or so hours of decom-

another. The first one is usually a hood used by free-divers,

pression after the dive. If you dive often and a lot, you should

fitting the head extremely closely, made of thin neoprene. The

treat replacing the hood every 100 dives as normal practice.

second one is a very flexible hood made of soft neoprene,

It might also be a good idea to own two hoods and use them

5–7 mm thick.

interchangeably. If, with one hood, we used to replace it every

This solution might be worth a try, as it may prove particu-

100 dives, then with two hoods the replacement time will mag-

larly successful.

ically extend to nearly 300 dives – worth trying (besides if you have only one hood and you lose it, you never know what you’ll

Different manufacturers – what should I choose?

manage to borrow, and dives have to be made…)!

Ask the manufacturer if and how their hoods were tested in a pressure chamber.

Positive compression test results at great depths with long duration should encourage trying such hoods. It is also worth peeking at technical divers who often dive at great depths in cold water – they usually opt for good and proven hoods.

Underwater hippies They are divers who dive deep and a lot, using particularly lousy hoods.

Opinions from people who do not care much about their equipment and treat the hood rather as an underwater sombrero should be treated like a fun fact rather than valuable guidance  Does putting on/taking off the hood feel uncomfortable for you?

Maybe you have long hair and your hood is doing a good job depriving you of it?

Do you know what a diver would use a swimming cap for?

Currently Tecline Academy is offering espresso with a light walnut finish and loaded with caffeine – pop in for a good coffee and let’s talk about hoods!

You're welcome to visit us!

WAF

Tecline Academy: https://teclinediving.eu/tecline-academy/#/ Photo Mariusz Czajka

70

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