Perfect Diver Magazine 10 issue

diving

No. 10 4(10)/2020

july/august

Price 7,90 € Tax included

freediving

passion

knowledge

two poles The land of the ice giants

Sardinia "Pilot". My piece of paradise on earth Cyprus and everything is clear ... like the sun there 1

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2

3 OPERATING MODES:

the foreword

Wojciech Zgoła

Editor-in-Chief

We start with the cold, beautiful and wild poles of our planet. You can still find unusual animals and amazing phenomena there.

On the following pages we suggest trips mainly to different places in Europe. We have Pilot, more texts, about Sardinia, our editorial colleague Bartek Pszczółkowski. Cyprus is well known and presented by Robert Pietras, who makes his debut in Perfect Diver.

Every day, information about new countries opening up to travelers arrives. Maybe we dive more in places close to home? Nature is exciting. Underwater life, wrecks and the mere fact of being suspended in the water make us different people.

The magazine exceptionally has 80 pages. He could have had more, but that's not the point. In the next 2 months you will be able to virtually dive with us again, and then puncture it with your own specific plans.

In Perfect Diver Magazine we show you various aspects of diving. We indicate places worth recommending. We add maps and information that will allow you to go on an independent diving trip or show who will be with us on the way.

Have you ever dived with a hearing or deaf person? We have a mega curiosity about deaf divers as perceived by Karolina Jakóbczak.

The last article is, as always, a very practical guide by Wojtek A. Filip.

I cordially invite you. The preparation of such a large amount of material is an effort of many people. I encourage you to donate any voluntary amount that you can support the editorial office.

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

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ta b l e o f co n t e n t s

18 10 30

knowledge

travels 56

4

A travelling diver, part 1

10

2 poles. The land of the ice giants

59

"Shush!". On the benefits of diving with a deaf diver

18

Norway. Dive Bergen

71

Review – "The Terrible Hours"

24

Bornholm as seen from the shore

30

Sardinia "Pilot". My piece of paradise on earth

36

Cyprus and everything is clear ... like the sun there

42

Gozo in a nutshell

50

Phuket Island

rookie's eye 68

How to swim in ABC equipment

planet earth 62

Chasing the Eastern Baltic cod

Publisher perfect diver wojciech zgoła

64

Frigatebirds. Pirates of the skies

ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo redakcja@perfectdiver.com ISsN 2545-3319

64

editor in chief

Wojciech Zgoła

columnist

Irena Kosowska

underwater archaeology

Mateusz Popek

freediving photographer publicist, photographer english language translators

Agnieszka Kalska Jakub Degee Bartosz Pszczółkowski Agnieszka Gumiela-Pająkowska Arleta Kaźmierczak Reddo Translations Sp. z o.o.

legal care graphic design and composition

Adwokat Joanna Wajsnis Brygida Jackowiak-Rydzak

the magazine was folded with typefaces

Montserrat (Julieta Ulanovsky) Open Sans (Ascender Fonts) Spectral (Production Type)

tips & curiosities 72

Diving setups, part 4

printing Wieland Drukarnia Cyfrowa, Poznań, www.wieland.com.pl

distribution dive centers, online store

preorder@perfectdiver.com

Special edition – technical training for divers preparing for emergency response

72

cover photo

Nicole Lynn Smoot place

Ross Sea

www.perfectdiver.com

The Editorial Office does not return unsolicited materials, is not responsible for the content of advertisements and reserves the right to shorten, edit, title the submitted texts and select illustrative materials. Reprinting of articles or parts thereof, copying only with the consent of the Editorial Board. Editors are not responsible for the form and content of advertisements.

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Donation is voluntary.

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5

e d i to r i a l t e a m

Wojciech Zgoła

irena kosowska

jakub degee

He often repeats that he travels by diving and that

Regional Manager Divers Alert Network Polska, div-

Polish photographer, winner of awards and dis-

is his motto. In 1985 he obtained a yacht sailor's

ing and first aid instructor, technical diver and

tinctions in world underwater photography com-

license, and only in 2006 began to dive. In the

cave diver. In love with all flooded, dark, cold,

petitions, has already dived all over the world:

following years he improved his skills by obtain-

tight places and invariably from the beginning

with sharks and whales in South Africa, with orcs

ing the Dive Master degree. He completed near-

of the diving route – in the Baltic. Implementing

behind the Arctic Circle, on Galapagos with hun-

ly 650 dives in various climatic conditions. Since

the DAN mission, he conducts a series of lectures

dreds of hammerhead sharks and humpback

2007, he has been taking photographs underwa-

”Dive safely” and Diving Safety Laboratory, so field

whales in the Tonga Islands. He participates in

ter, and since 2008 he has also been filming. As

research of divers for scientific purposes.

specialist photographic workshops. He has been

an independent journalist, he published dozens

diving for 27 years, he started at the age of 12 – as

of articles, mainly in journals dedicated to diving,

soon as it was formally possible. He was the first in

but not only. Co-author of photo exhibitions in

the world to use the Hasselblad X1d-50c camera

Poland and abroad. He is passionate about and

for underwater macro photography. Recently, in

propagator of diving.

the remote Chincorro archipelago on the border

Since 2008 he has been running his own website

between Mexico and Belize, he did it again, tak-

www.dive-adventure.eu. On the basis of extensive

ing a successful attempt to photograph the eye of

experience, in August 2018 he created the new

a crocodile with a macro lens with an additional

Perfect Diver Magazine.

magnifying lens, which is the world's largest photo of the crocodile's eye living in the wild (in terms of pixel count, print size, quality).

Mateusz Popek

Agnieszka kalska

”My passion, work and life are under water.” He has

”I can't imagine living without water, where in a free

That's my name and I come from Poznań. I have

been diving since 2009. Since 2008, he's walking

body I experience freedom of the spirit.”

been associated with water practically from birth

in caves. Underwater archeologist by education.

He participated in numerous projects in Poland and abroad. He has been engaged in professional diving since 2011. In 2013 he obtained the qualifications of a 2nd class diver. Has experience in underwater work both at sea and inland.

• founder of the first freediving and swimming school in Poland – FREEBODY, • Apnea Academia International and PADI Master Freediver freediving instructor, • world record holder in freediving (DYN 253 m),

Bartosz Pszczółkowski

and with diving since I learned to walk. My grandfather instilled my passion for the underwater world, a CMAS*** instructor taking me to the lakes at any free time. I obtained my first qualifications in 1996. A year later I went to Croatia and literally went crazy at the sight of blue wa-

Since 2013 he has been diving in caves, especially

• record holder and Polish champion, member

ter, octopus and colorful fish;) I bought my first

in the mountains, and since 2014 he is a diving

of the national team in freediving 2013–2019,

underwater camera – Olympus 5060 and started

instructor CMAS M1. In June 2020, he obtained

• winner of the World Championships in freed-

the adventure with underwater photography.

a doctoral degree in underwater archeology.

iving 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018,

I acquired my diving experience in the Canary

• multimedalist of the Polish Championships

Islands, Sardinia, Norway, Maldives and in Polish

and a member of the national team in swim-

lakes. I am currently a Padi and ESA instructor,

ming in the years 1998–2003,

I train diving enthusiasts in Europe and pass my

• passionate about freediving and swimming.

passion on to others.

I invite all lovers of the underwater world and photography to Beediver (FB) – see you soon.

o u r au t h o r s

wojciech a. filip

anna sołoducha

marcin trzciński

Has more than 8000 dives on his account. He has

A graduate of Geography faculty at the Univer-

A graduate of the University of Warsaw. An

been diving for over 30 years, including over 20

sity of Wrocław and an incurable optimist… with

underwater photographer and filmmaker, has

years as a technical diver. He is a professional

a permanent smile on her lips! It was probably

been diving since 1995. A co-operator at the

with great theoretical and practical knowledge.

Destiny that led her to Activtour… and she's been

Department of Underwater Archeology at the

He is an instructor of many federations: GUE

here on permanent basis. She passionately ful-

University of Warsaw. He publishes in diving

Instructor Mentor, CMAS**, IANTD nTMX, IDCS

fils the dreams of many, organizing diving trips

magazines in Poland and abroad. The owner of

PADI, EFR, TMX Gas Blender. He participated in

around the world, and she has already been div-

the FotoPodwodna company which is the Polish

many diving projects and conferences as a leader,

ing for more than half of her life. Each year she

representative of Ikelite, Nauticam, Inon, ScubaL-

explorer, originator or lecturer. These included

explores a different ‘piece of the ocean’, pinning

amp companies.

the Britannic Expedition 2016, Morpheus Cave

another pin to her diving world map. In winter

www.fotopodwodna.pl,

Scientific Project on Croatia caves, GROM Expe-

she changes fins into her beloved skis and gets

m.trzcinski@fotopodwodna.pl

dition in Narvik, Tuna Mine Deep Dive, Glavas

away into the Alps. A recipe for life? ”The only

Cave in Croatia, NOA-MARINE. Professionally, he

a dead trunk flows with the current – the explorer's

is a technical director at TecLine in Scubatech,

canoe flows up the river!”

and a director of training at TecLine Academy.

www.activtour.pl, anna@activtour.pl

sylwia kosmalska-juriewicz

Adrian juriewicz

wojciech jarosz

A traveller and a photographer of wild nature.

A traveler, photographer and the underwater

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the Acad-

A graduate of journalism and a lover of good

world filmmaker, an Asian cuisine enthusiast

literature. She lives in harmony with nature,

and a PADI diving instructor. He visited over

promotes a healthy lifestyle: she is a yogini and

70 countries and dived on 5 continents (the

a vegetarian. Also engaged in ecological projects.

other two are planned for next year's expedi-

Sharks and their protection are especially close to

tions). For several years he has also been an

her heart. She writes about the subject in numer-

instructor and trainer of the unmanned aircraft

ous articles and on her blog www.divingandtravel.

flights. A co-author of a travel agency for divers

pl. She began her adventure with diving fifteen

www.dive-away.pl. He documents his expeditions

years ago by total coincidence. Today she is

with photos and descriptions of his journeys on

a Divemaster, she visited over 60 countries and

his blog www.divingandtravel.pl

dived on 5 continents. She invites us for a joint journey with the travel agency www.dive-away.pl, of which she is a co-founder.

emy of Physical Education (coaching specialization – handball) and the University of A.Mickiewicz, Faculty of Biology (specialty of experimental biology). He connected his professional life with this first university trying to influence the direction of development of future professionals on the one hand, and on the other planning and implementing research, pushing laboriously in the right direction of the stroller called science.

In his free time he spends his time actively – his main passions are sailing (sea helmsman), skiing (downhill skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle, recreational diving and many other activities, as well as photography, mainly nature.

o u r au t h o r s

margita ślizowska

Michal Černý

Audrey Cudel

aka "Mermaid". NAUI, EFR (premedical first aid)

"Wet photos" – He has photographed since he

Technical Diving Instructor and renowned Un-

and DAN oxygen rescue instructor. Actress and

remembers. After several years of experience as

derwater Photographer whose style is famous

singer. Versatile woman.

a diver, he wanted to keep memories of under-

within the Technical Diving community. She is

Diving is her passion and a way to help every

water dives. He bought his first compact camera

specialised in Sidemount, Technical Sidemount

person with whom she works above and below

with an underwater housing. Over time, howev-

& Cave Diving Training. She is based in Gozo but

water. In her opinion, diving is not only exploring

er, the desire to have the best photo began to

operates worldwide both for training and explo-

the underwater world. It is also getting to know

dominate, which was not quite possible with the

ration purpose. Beyond her adaptive teaching

and integrating with your own "I", building trust

compact he used. That's why he switched to the

recognition and her dedication to making each

in yourself and a way to develop the skills neces-

Olympus PEN E-PL 5 reflex camera, which al-

student a better diver, she is a passionate un-

sary to overcome all life problems. Specialist for

lows the use of several different lenses. He uses

derwater photographer complementing each

"difficult" students and children.

a combination of underwater flashes and lights.

training and diving session with numerous shots

Owner of XDIVERS – Your Diving School. Trimix,

He focuses on wildlife photography, not arrange-

which became famous within the diving industry

cave and gas blender diver. Her biggest underwa-

ment. He photographs in fresh domestic waters

and through social medias. Her work has been

ter love are caves, and diving priority – SAFETY.

as well as in the seas and oceans of the world.

published in various magazines, Diving agencies

margita@xdivers.pl

He has already won numerous awards at Czech

websites, training materials & dive shows.

and foreign photography competitions. More photos can be found on his website, where you can also buy them not only as photos, but also as photos printed on canvas or on another medium. www.mokrefotky.cz www.facebook.com/MichalCernyPhotography www.instagram.com/michalcerny_photography/

agata turowicz-cybula

karolina jakóbczak

robert tomasz pietras

Since I was a child, I had dreamed of becoming

"Once the sea casts its spell, it will keep you forever

PADI Diving Instructor since 2007 (MI PADI),

a marine biologist and I managed to fulfill that

in its web of wonders." – J. Y. Cousteau

TecRec and EFR Instructor, SDI TDI Instructor,

dream. I did a degree in oceanography, where

I have always had contact with water in various

BSAC Instructor. Professional DAN Partner. With

I recently started my doctoral studies. My diving

forms: snorkeling, sailing, windsurfing. In 2015,

Cyprus associated since 2011. I dive mainly in

adventure began when I was 12 years old. I love

I released bubbles for the first time during the

the Sidemount system, sometimes also for rec-

observing the underwater life up close and I try

Intro at Fuertevetura, and since 2016 I have been

reational purposes. I stay in Poland in winter. This

to show other divers how fascinating the under-

actively diving in Polish and foreign waters. Com-

is the time when I train in first aid in schools and

water, Baltic creatures are.

puter graphic designer by education and profes-

kindergartens and teach children about the un-

sion, my hobby is artistic photography. I promote

derwater world. Sometimes I also train as a swim-

diving among the Deaf on the Aquakari profile to

ming instructor. Besides, I like traveling and look

which I cordially invite you!

forward to being able to dive under the ice again.

Contact me at: +48 605252010 / +357 97667438 e-mail: Robert@nurkujenacyprze.com

NURKOWANIE TECHNICZNE | NURKOWANIE REKREACYJNE | FREEDIVING Ocean - Tech Sp. z o.o, ul. Kaszubska Droga 13, 80 -209 Chwaszczyno, Polska +48 (58) 711 76 85 www.nurkowyswiat.pl

sklep@nurkowyswiat.pl

t r av e l s

2 poles The land of the ice giants Text anna sołoducha

Photo Oceanwide Expedition

When in 2015 I presented Kasia – the owner of ACTIVTOUR – with a book entitled "AntArktyka podwodne zauroczenie" by Bartosz Stróżyński (the AntiArctic underwater infatuation), I did not think that it would become an inspiration and a symbol of new challenges, and a look where the eyes cannot reach...

F

or 13 years, ACTIVTOUR has been organizing dives all over the world, and in 2017 (our) pioneering expedition

to Antarctica took place. It seems to me that once you love the water that makes up lakes, seas, oceans, no matter what state of concentration it is in – it will be true love, deep… love forever. Looking into the distance, beyond the limits of your own imagination, you can see a completely different world... an immeasurable world of forms that is almost unbelievable, as if from another galaxy. Sculpturally,

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Pole and parts of the northernmost lands. In addition, it is worth mentioning that Antarctica largely land and the Arctic is mainly drifting ice. These "2 poles" are the gateway to knowing yourself. If places located near 60 degrees north and south latitude inspire you, intrigue you, or even intimidate you, the offer that you will find on the 2bieguny.com website is just for you. The idea of the website was born out of our endless need and love to travel, discover and conquer new, unknown lands. The desire was born in us to bring you closer to your heart – the polar regions.

Expeditions to 2 poles – as the name suggests, they are divided into cruises organised in the Arctic and Antarctica regions. An indispensable element of these voyages is a fleet of 6 ships, each of which is adapted to the extremely harsh (sometimes even extreme) conditions in the polar regions. The M/V Hondius, M/V Ortelius and M/V Plancius are powerful icebreakers, ideally suited for polar expeditions.

The wealth of amenities for our passengers is not the only advantage of the ships. A priceless advantage is also the care for the natural environment of the polar regions. The applied technologies of LED lighting, steam heating, biodegradable paints and lubricants as well as an innovative energy management system allow to reduce CO2 emissions and fuel consumption – which directly affects the ecology.

An interesting fact is that one of them – M/V Ortelius was built in 1989 in Gdynia, as a unit of oceanographic research of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Since then, it has undergone a thorough renovation and has been adapted to serve over 120 passengers of tourist and expedition cruises to Antarctica, meeting all safety standards. Rebrandt van Rijn and Noorderlicht are excellent sailing ships adapted to Arctic waters. The newest and fastest vessel in our fleet is the M/V Janssonius. An excellent, exclusive expedition vessel that can be successfully called a floating hotel! All ships take on board over 100 passengers, an excellent crew in

architecturally, madly and absurdly beautiful. There, history is hidden in ice, in snow and in places where you need to move your horizon to see the real treasure. Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder...

Antarctica, located in the southern hemisphere, is a geographical term that includes the continent itself – the mainland called Antarctica covered with the ice sheet, islands, ice shelves and icebergs in the South. The Arctic, on the other hand, is mostly the Arctic Ocean ice sheet around the North

Photo Oceanwide Expedition

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

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every respect, and a whole host of biologists, geomorphologists, geographers, oceanographers, photographers who conduct lectures and special lectures, introducing the participants of the cruises to the fauna and flora of the polar regions. They teach you how to take the best photo in such difficult conditions or make a movie. What can captivate you – divers, but also non-divers – in these expeditions is the whole range of activities carried out as part of cruises on the waters of the two poles. Trekking, mountaineering, snowshoe hiking are the best way to explore the polar regions, admire the wildlife and phenomenal landscapes. If you like to explore icy and snowy terrains first, be the first to make your mark on pristine powder snow… you must try ski mountaineering! Expeditions of this type include both skiing and mountain climbing, sometimes even on walls steeper than a 35-degree slope. Ski mountaineering is practiced in small groups on demanding, steep terrain, often in deep snow. Kayakers will have the opportunity to make many interesting trips to penetrate this part of the land that will remain impossible to get on board the large ship M/V Plancius... Using single and double kayaks Photo Activtour

we will sail in the scenery of ice giants! Nature and nature lovers will take advantage of the possibility of accommodation in professional tents in a camp set up on land, and on selected cruises we will see the snow kingdom from a slightly different perspective... during a helicopter flight.

At this point, information about diving cannot be missing.

The combination of light reflections breaking through the water and unusual ice formations will delight you completely! The magical colour of the water will reveal to us extraordinary sea life: kelp forests, sea snakes, giant crabs, amazing varieties of snails, many species of Arctic and Antarctica fish, jellyfish, starfish, krill, great isopods and sea urchins. The trip will be a unique opportunity to see with your own eyes a sea leopard, a sea lion, a fur seal, several varieties of cetaceans and to watch the ubiquitous penguins from the water surface. An expedition that includes all the above-mentioned activities is an expedition in the form of a basecamp. It will be up to you which of the proposed options you use.

By sailing with us, you experience a part of the world that is unlike any other. Mountainous glaciers, snow-drenched shores, whales and polar bears, and vast penguin colonies make up this world, and they are all part of a surreal ecosystem that you can see in front of you on your future ocean excursion. By deciding to sail to the South Pole, we will start our journey in Ushuaia, the southernmost city on the globe. Tourists come back from there with stamps in

Photo Activtour

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Photo Activtour

the passport with the words: "Fin del mundo", the end of the world. Our cruises run through the Falklands, South Orkney Islands, South Shetland Islands, South Georgia, the phenomenal Ross Sea with the most active stratovolcano in Antarctica – Erebus, or the Weddel Sea with the Antarctica Peninsula.

Antarctica is a region of eternal ice, days lasting six months, incorrect readings of compasses, huge populations of endemic species, including emperor penguins that meet all meridians. The routes travelled by our vessels are dazzling with their beauty – the ice shimmers with a rainbow of reflected light, and against the blue sky we will see albatrosses, petrels, fulmars, cormorants, shearwaters...

The waters of the southern continent, thanks to the presence of krill and many nutrients, are a place of existence for an extremely rich fauna: many varieties of cetaceans (North Atlantic right whale, sperm whales, sei whales, fin whales, killer whales, blue whales, dolphins, common minke whales), seals, sea lions, sea leopards, fur seals – all this we will have a chance to see with our own eyes diving among Photo Franco Banfi

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

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Photo Nicolo de Cata

Photo Oceanwide Expeditions

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Photo Ivo Madder

Photo Ivo Madder

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

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Photo Ivo Madder

Photo Ivo Madder

Photo Jamie Scherbeijn

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Photo Ivo Madder

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the glaciers. Antarctica, frozen in time and ice, will allow us to learn about the history of the famous Irish explorer and discoverer – Shackleton, and make us even more "sensitised" to the problems of ecology, global warming, and thus – melting glaciers. It will teach you to see further.

Going in the opposite direction – to the North Pole, one of the most spectacular experiences will be observing the phenomenon of the aurora! Our cruises cover the Svalbard Archipelago with Spitsbergen, Northern Norway, Greenland, Iceland… We will see ancient mining settlements, research stations, picturesque fjords, glaciers and wild tundra. The polar bear is a true Arctic icon when it comes to the land zone, and whales and seals reign underwater. Arctic regions are different environments, different from all the others on Earth. We find here huge spaces, the presence of seas, a half-frozen ocean. A dark and desert land in winter, it comes to life suddenly when the days become long. The Arctic is a region that extends north from the Arctic Circle to the North Pole. This is one of the last wild bastions on our planet. Only the most persistent and best adapted species survive here. Arctic animals were about 3 million years old to adapt to the harsh conditions prevailing here. During 10 months a year it is covered with ice and permafrost, during four months it is in darkness.

What exactly is under the tip of the iceberg? A pioneering spirit that connects all travelers and thus brings them to the polar regions (regardless of age and origin). Our expeditions are full of passion, commitment, inspiration and they aim to bring you closer to the heart of the Arctic and Antarctica... Isn't it by any chance, polar infatuation?

Photo Johan Vesters

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

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t r av e l s

Norway dive bergen

Text and photos Michal ČernÝ

Like most European divers, until

past, the landscape was modeled by several glaciers. Thanks to them, the typical Norwegian fjords were created, which in

recently I directed my diving trips

fact are glacial valleys flooded by the sea. They are countless,

mainly to warm coral seas. This time we

and some of them extend many kilometers inland, which is

decided to try a slightly different cold water diving and chose Norway as our destination, specifically places around the former capital of Norway – Bergen.

why Norway is often referred to as the land of the fjords.

We chose the area around Bergen for diving, which was the capital of Norway until 1299, and today, with 250,000 inhabitants, is the second largest city in the country. There is still a long way to the Arctic Circle, but even here in summer it is practically bright at night. The sun sets below the horizon only for a moment, causing more dusk than night. In summer we can forget about the classic night dives.

Geography Norway is located in the west of the Scandinavian Penin-

18

Transport

sula and is the eighth largest European country, about four

Bergen is easy to reach by plane, but if you want to bring

times larger than the Czech Republic, but due to its low pop-

your own snorkeling gear, it's definitely better to go by car.

ulation density, it only has about half the population. In the

There are several options to choose from, using the ferry

travels

or bridges between Denmark and Sweden which are paid.

report that the limit has been exceeded and pay the duty.

We decided to use the ferries. On the way we drove through

Tolls require motorways and selected roads (mostly

Germany and Denmark, making about 1,200 kilometers to

bridges and tunnels). Toll collection is automatic electron-

reach the Hirtshals port, where we boarded the ferry. After

ically based on your passage through the toll gate, it is not

about four hours of sailing, we reached Larvik, Norway. Fer-

payable on site, for which you will receive an invoice that you

ry tickets need to be purchased well in advance, I also rec-

must pay by credit card or bank transfer. For this reason, be-

ommend purchasing a seat at the restaurant serving buffet

fore entering Norway, it is a good idea to register the vehicle

meals and the selection including fish and seafood is very

you are traveling with in the Internet toll system.

wide so the journey will be gone very quickly.

It is about 450 kilometers from Larvik to Bergen, but

Immerse yourself in Bergen

thanks to the narrow and winding roads, the journey takes

Our goal and the second home for a week was the Dive

about 8 hours. It is a wonderful journey, it leads through the

Bergen Dive Center, located in the south of the island of

amazing Norwegian landscape, beautiful mountains with

Sotra, about 40 kilometers from Bergen. The center is part

forever snow-capped peaks, turquoise-blue mountain lakes

of the hotel resort of Panorama, which offers divers very

and tall waterfalls. On the way back, we chose the direct fer-

pleasant accommodation in apartment houses overlooking

ry route from Bergen to Hirtshals in Denmark, which takes

the fjord. In addition, accommodated divers have free diving

a total of 18 hours (you can buy a cabin and sleep well).

at the house reef. Cylinder refilling is already included in the

Norway is not a member of the European Union and

accommodation price, including Nitrox up to EAN 32.

there are relatively strict restrictions on the importation of

As the walls drop to a depth of about 40 meters, Nitrox is

alcohol, tobacco and food. They are checked frequently, so

absolutely perfect for these dives. We were also very pleas-

it is definitely not worth going over these limits as the fines

antly surprised by the enthusiasm of the staff who described

are not small. Of course, upon arrival in Norway, you can

us very well where to dive where there is no point. They

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

19

gave us tips not only about the home corral but also about other interesting places in the area that can be reached by car. We were able to dive completely freely as we wanted, the compressor was constantly available and we could refill our tanks whenever we needed. Full freedom and freedom.

The dive center also provides diving on wrecks, more distant walls or in a kelp forest. There is a fast zodiac, used mainly for shorter trips for one dive, or a large luxury yacht, which we sail on for one-day diving trips. Of course, the boat has all the amenities, as well as fresh coffee or a place to rest after diving.

Diving Of course, this is a completely different dive than in the coral seas or the Mediterranean. The water is colder, less colorful, and visibility seems less due to the amount of plankton. Nevertheless, the diving is absolutely fascinating and underwater you will meet animals that you will not meet anywhere else.

For diving in Norway, it is certainly a good idea to equip yourself with a dry suit, because even in summer the water temperature at greater depths is only 7 or 8ºC. On the surface it is a maximum of about 15ºC. Kelp is abundant in shallower waters and is found almost everywhere. Seaweed is said to cover an area of up to 5,800 square kilometers off the coast of Norway. Kelp is obviously a natural home and a refuge for many animals, mainly smaller ones. You can find various species of sea urchins, starfish, crustaceans, small fish and of course my favorite nudibranchs.

For me personally, one of the reasons I went to Norway was the monkfish. Yes, this ugly fish is so ugly that's beautiful, it is very abundant in Norway, which I can fully confirm now. Immediately during the first dive, we met two monkfish, and during the following dives the number only increased, some of them reaching over a meter in length. This fish is absolutely perfect for underwater photographers, it just lies in one place and hardly moves. So sometimes it wags an appendix on its head that is supposed to resemble a worm and thus attract other fish, which then end up in the giant's huge mouth. I even spent twenty minutes taking pictures of some specimen which didn’t move at that time.

Finding a monkfish in water, however, is not easy as it has very good camouflage and sometimes it literally melts into the bottom. Some I noticed only while browsing the photos, when, for example, I captured some of the cargo from the wreck, I did not even notice that there was a monkfish next to it.

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podróże

The waters here are rich in fish and the variety of species

January 16, 1914 after a collision with another ship, when it

is relatively large. At the bottom, in addition to the already

began to take on water quickly. The captain was still trying

mentioned monkfish, there are also large amounts of floun-

to save the ship by steering it towards the shore, but the

der, catfish or cephalopods. In open waters, you can main-

steep bottom allowed the ship to sink completely. The crew

ly see cod, there are the following types of cod: common,

survived completely. Today the wreck lies just a few meters

dark, beardless, single-spotted or pollock. You can often

from the shore on a sloping bottom at a depth of 8 to 50 m.

find a fish here that looks like it has lost its way and that it

The stern is broken off, but the rest of the wreck is relatively

shouldn't be here at all. It has a deep blue-yellow color and

well preserved. However, it is not recommended to enter the

is a rainbow wrasse.

wreck due to the possible collapse of the structure.

"Siggen" – just a few minutes by boat from the diving

wrecks

center there is a picturesque island with a lighthouse, and at

There are many wrecks in Norwegian waters, but not all

a depth of 30 to 40 meters, the wreckage of an old steamer

are available for recreational divers because of their depth.

or what is left of it parks. The steamer sank in bad weather

Wrecks can be divided into two groups according to the

in January 1892. On its first voyage, it struck a small island.

dumping method. Namely, the wrecks of World War II and

Today, we can still see the remains of the fuselage, propel-

the wrecks of ships that sank due to bad weather, crashing

ler, anchor, and especially the steam engine, which surpris-

against the rocks. There are wrecks of both of these groups

es with its dimensions. The wreck has become a home for

in and around Bergen, some directly accessible from the

whales and other sea animals. We met here, for example,

shore, and others by boat.

Kamchatka crabs.

We visited a few of them:

The "Fusa" – a Norwegian steamer 34 meters long

Spring – the wreck of this 65-meter cargo ship can also

was sunk during WWII on January 8, 1945. After an attack

be reached from the shore. The ship sank on the night of

by about fifteen British planes, even though it was clear-

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21

August Bolten – The wreck of this 110-meter cargo ship is about 140 m deep and so far only a few divers have dived on it. However, at a depth of up to 40 m, you can see part of the ship's cargo that fell out of it when it sank. We can find several car and truck chassis, motorcycles, car trailers, and on some even cannons. The ship sank in the morning of November 20, 1944 after a two-day attack by Allied planes.

Helene Jensen – is one of the newer wrecks in the area, a cargo ship built in the Netherlands in 1931 sank in bad weather after hitting a small island on March 11, 1980. The relatively short time underwater meant that the wreck is well preserved, including some wooden superstructures.

The wreck is also lying vertically on the slope, its bow is 12 m deep and the stern 35 m. We managed to find several species of snails on this wreck.

Other attractions and opportunities Of course, you don't need to dive here, there is a wide range of other water and land sports available. You can rent a sea kayak, jet ski or boat and go fishing in the fjords. Mainly they take cod here, so we also went on a fishing trip to eat fresh fish for dinner. In less than two hours, we managed to catch fifteen cod, which we then cooked on the grill.

In between boat dives we visited one of the salmon farms, of which there are countless in the local fjords. Here we not only tasted the fresh salmon but also got to know how to breed fish on the farm which was very interesting.

There is also a fortress from the World War II Fjell festivities not far from the resort, which was the largest German fortress in Norway. You can see exhibitions of military equipment and weapons both outside and inside.

Of course, Bergen itself is worth a visit as it has typical architecture with wooden houses in the harbor. There is also a fish market where you can not only buy seafood, but most of the ones on offer will be prepared for you right away, so you can try some really fresh specialties straight from the sea. The nearby hill, accessible by cable ly marked with Norwegian national emblems. The planes

car, offers a beautiful view of the entire city with its harbor

carried out three attacks on the ship in total, killing eight

and fjords.

people and injuring many others. The ship eventually sank

We were very excited about diving and being in Norway.

at a depth of 25 to 35 meters, where today it stands on

We will definitely come back here in the coming years as

a sandy bottom in an upright position. In the wreckage you

we haven't seen everything yet, for example we ran out of

can still find leftover equipment such as plates and other

a wolf – it didn't show itself to us so we have reason to come

kitchen utensils.

back to this beautiful country.

Contact with the base: Immerse yourself in Bergen, Panorama Hotell & Resort AS, Austefjordveien 165, 5379 Steinsland tel.: (+47) 56 31 90 00, e-mail: booking@panoramahotell.no, www.divebergen.no

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23

t r av e l s

Bornholm as seen from the shore Text and photos Marcin trzciński

24

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I could hear a soft bang and almost instantly I felt a rapid jerk of the steering wheel, strong enough to almost pull the wheel out of my hands. Braking hard, I carefully pulled over to the side of the highway heading North to Sassnitz, while the crew, woken up abruptly, were trying to figure out what was going on.

A

tire. Rear right. It lay there, spread over at least a hun-

posed to take us to the wrecks died and Peer was waiting for

dred meters, marking the forced braking distance in

the parts he had ordered the day before. For the time being,

black. Actually, there was nothing strange about it. After all,

we could only dive from the shore. Oh joy…

our Vito was crammed with five people, including three over-

At least there was no trouble with the Mollers Dueodde

sized ones. On top of that our twins, stage cylinders and all

Camping, located at the North-East edge of the island. And

that diving gear you just can't get into the water without. And

the guest house we got was… fantastic. By fantastic I mean

of course Peli cases with photo – and video-cameras, plus

I could imagine moving in as a permanent resident, enjoying

grub for five days. Yet I guess it was the beverages that land-

the comfort of the pine forest and the nearby sandy beach.

ed the decisive blow. I had told them that bringing this stuff

***

to the native land of Carlsberg is somewhat perverse, but

A sunny morning greeted us with the chirping of birds

it was all about saving money. By the way, it’s strange that

and the noise of pots thrown around by Darek. He was the

other tires did not yield under the burden not to mention

first to take the kitchen duty to prepare scrambled eggs.

the suspension and several other heavily overloaded parts.

A piece of cake, only slightly complicated by the absence of

Thank heaven it was only a little after four in the morn-

a frying pan. Yet finally, feeling full and with a kind approach

ing, so the highway was completely empty. Otherwise, the

to the world, we were able to set off for the Vang port. It

Germans would have had a lot of fun seeing us unpack all

sounded severe, as it was in fact located on the other side

our stuff, making a real Arab stall on the roadside just to jack

of the island, but Google said it was only 51 km. Small po-

the car up and change the wheel. In less than forty minutes,

tatoes. Peer was already waiting for us at the pier we were

the job was done. This includes scraping larger pieces of

supposed to dive from, supposedly the best flounder spot

rubber from the road.

in the whole island. Well, we had to try it out. ***

Finally, I was under water. The soft hum of my regulator,

Even just from the upper deck of the ferry, the town of

the last check and I could start rummaging over the sandy

Rønne looked fabulous. Illuminated by the afternoon sun,

bottom, covered with rocks and clumps of weeds. Visibility

the low houses formed a candy town with a beautiful marina

wasn't bad and we could hope for some nice shots at five

and the church of St. Nicholas towering over the area. Our

meters. But as the minutes passed, I only grew more and

spirits were high until we reached the Dykkergaarden base.

more certain that I was not the sharpest tool in the shed.

No diving today for us. The engine of the RIB that was sup-

You see, when under water I become deficient in perception

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25

in the water. At that point, I knew as well what to look for.

Shocked by this unexpected turn of the events, the fish goggled helplessly for a moment, then... moving frantically, it dated into the depth, leaving behind

Camouflaged eyes, sticking slightly above the bottom. Errr…

Have you ever been looking for eyes hidden in the sand?

Out of the corner of my eye, I saw movement. Another fish, startled by someone, glided right above the bottom, then

particles of sand floating in the water. At that point,

fell gently on it and, with rapid movements, started digging

I knew as well what to look for. Camouflaged eyes,

itself in. Gotcha! I swam some two meters closer and gently

sticking slightly above the bottom. Errr… Have you ever been looking for eyes hidden in the sand?

approached the animal, which was eyeing me suspiciously.

The little guy overdid it a bit with the dust cover, so I started cleaning it off gently. Surprisingly, it did not escape, patiently enduring the change of the decorations.

After an hour and a half, when my bladder forced me to return on the shore, I felt pretty satisfied, even though we

and can’t even spot things people are showing me. Well,

didn't see any wrecks. On the contrary – I hadn’t had that

unless someone gently slides their hand in the sand and

much fun chilling at a few meters for quite a long time.

lifts an astonished flatfish a meter above the bottom, just

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***

like Peer did. Shocked by this unexpected turn of the events,

The morning meeting at the parking lot at Dykkergaarden

the fish goggled helplessly for a moment, then something

in Rønne was about to end. Overwhelmed with the number

apparently clicked in its head and, moving frantically, it dat-

of people wanting to dive, Peer was browsing his mind for

ed into the depth, leaving behind particles of sand floating

locations that would accommodate 14 people. It seemed

travels

that on such a small island, this could be a problem. Finally,

body, it gracefully glided between the greens that sheltered

he made the decision – we’re going to Hullehavn. To the east

it. It was worth the wait. I followed the group, wary for other

coast, slightly south from Svaneke.

denizens of the depths.

A dense carpet of vegetation, waving to the rhythm of

***

the movements of water, covered the entire rocky bottom.

Peer’s boat was still stuck at the pier. No parts. Disgusted

It was like our football team at the World Cup. Watching it

with this fact, the rest of the crew left me behind as prey for

made you feel sick. We needed to escape just a bit deeper,

the Vikings, setting off on a tour around the island. Well,

but for some people, gearing up was going at a snail’s pace.

I got into a black Nissan Skyline and with a roar of the en-

While half of the group was already waiting in the water, the

gine, combined with a screech of burned rubber, started

other half didn’t even have their suits on. To heck with them!

off towards Listed. This car was Sven's dream come true,

I sank towards the bottom, trying to go deep enough for the

straight out of his beloved The Fast and the Furious. Black,

damn waving to finally stop. I managed to do it as soon as

with Japanese spects and the steering wheel on the right

I passed the 6-meter limit. Now I could wait. So I waited. And

side. My new friend proclaimed himself a Danish renegade

waited. I reckon the Earth must have made at least two turns

and, with blatant disregard for the traffic code, raced ahead

around its axis before the vast rabble of divers swam along

through meadow-covered plains. Because you know: the

the slope and moved further, looking for something worth

Danish always stick to the 80 km/h speed limit, while we,

photographing. Alright, let them go. I fell much behind, rel-

with contempt for death and madness in our eyes, rushed

ishing the dive itself. I dangled almost motionless, moving

almost ninety. And once, forgetting himself for a moment,

my fins from time to time, when a big eelpout appeared

going downhill, Sven even reached 92! Geez, he was a rene-

slightly below to the left. Gently bending its long, slender

gade just like Oprah Winfrey was a Miss America. But on the

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

27

other hand, he was quite an interesting guy. A soldier, after serving two rounds in Afghanistan and in constant search of new thrills, asked to be transferred… to the underwater bomb squad academy. Located exactly here, on Bornholm.

Reportedly, there's still plenty of First and Second World War remnants lying around in the Baltic.

Luckily, our dive didn’t spell any sensations of that kind.

Again, a bottom covered with a dense carpet and lots of freedom, as I decided to take some macro photographs. As soon as I entered the nice, cool water, I was mantled with the light green of the Baltic. The bottom, which initially fell quite sharply, flattened out, forming deeper, parallel canyons. What am I going to find today? Or rather: am I going to find anything today? Gliding right above the layer of plants, I was looking carefully at the stalks, leaves and rocks as they passed by.

Just hold on a moment. Like the cartoon Road Runner, I instantly hit the brake as I saw… What was that? I cautiously lifted a big leaf and we exchanged deep glances. But only for a fraction of second, as before I understood what was going on, the shroud sitting behind it elegantly moved behind the next cover. Well, I uncovered it (her!) again and for a moment I could see her shapely legs, yellow joints and her

28

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reproachful eyes. Yet, before I managed to get my camera, she retreated again and disappeared behind the green wall. Little charmer. I continued flicking leaves for a longer while, when suddenly another blue-legged glamourpuss appeared.

For a moment I considered shifting my interest to her, when the fugitive, making fun of me until a moment ago, probably sensing my hesitation and my declining interest with her, froze, as though posing for a shoot. She posed patiently, letting me rearrange the lamps and adjust my settings, not showing any impatience or boredom whatsoever. Well, looks like there is competition also underwater. *** Five days on Bornholm left me with beautiful memories. But also with a hunger for wreck diving. Ultimately, we did only one dive on the wreck of Ada – a wooden schooner that landed 42 meters below the surface in 1867. Actually, this was a pure reconnaissance descent which only stimulated our appetite. Well, we'll just have to come back there another time.

Oh, one more thing. Our kindest hosts from Visit Denmark asked me several times to highlight how eco-friendly, clean and welcoming an island Bornholm is.

And how perfectly prepared for receiving tourists. Especially cyclists. So, in order not to be ungrateful, I must mention it. I did not ride a bike, because I dived, and don’t know a thing about environmental protection, but I can assure you it was clean everywhere. Like in some kind of a laboratory or something.

t r av e l s

Sardinia ”Pilot”

My piece of paradise on earth

Text and photos bartosz pszczółkowski

Imagine a place where the water is clean and the sand is white. A place so charming that it has been called the Caribbean of Europe.

Capo Caccia, Porto Conte

S

30

ardinia is a large island in the Mediterranean Sea, locat-

ical towers, houses and tombs of giants (TomboGigante),

ed halfway between Europe and Africa. Inhabited since

collectively known as Nuraghe, was strongly developed. In

350,000 BC, as evidenced by archaeological finds (stone

addition to this civilization, the Phoenicians, Carthaginians,

tools dating to the early Paleolithic). The ancient civilization

Romans, and even Arabs and finally the Spaniards left traces

of Nuor, which left traces of its presence in the form of stone

of their presence on the island. In 1861, Sardinia became

buildings with various architectural structures, such as con-

part of the Kingdom of Italy, but until now the inhabitants

travels

Stintino

Ferrata di Cabirol, view from the cave on Porto Conte

The mountains of the Supramonte massif, with the magical Su Goropu gorge and the megalithic village hidden in a huge cave. Limestone cliffs and caves of the Golfo di Orosei near CalaGonone, or the granite formations of Santa Teresa Di Galura and the archipelago of a thousand islands of La Madalena. The island, thanks to its diversity, of the island refer to themselves as "Sardis", having a deeply entrenched relationship with the island, which they rightly regard as their treasure.

will interest everyone.

Those who like to spend time outdoors have more than 160 sandy beaches, covered with blue waters of the sea.

In addition to a fascinating story that will interest

For lovers of thrills on the island, amazing trekking routes

even a layman, the surrounding nature literally knocks

and via ferrata have been created (specially prepared moun-

you down.

tain trails with chains and steps to facilitate the passage).

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31

Tavolara, view from the ferrata, 30-meter descent with a rope

And for those who combine rocks and water, canyoning is available.

Diving is the perfect activity for me, and Sardinia offers a great variety in this matter.

In the north of the island, near Santa Teresa, among the granite blocks at a depth of 20, 30, 40 meters, we can meet Mediterranean black coral (SavaliaSavaglia), which is a tricked black coral from the Parazoanthidea family Near the Magdalena archipelago, we can dive in the company of curious and friendly groupers, which are impressive in size In the northwest, you can dive into the amazing caves of the Punta Giglio and Capo Caccia massif.

Here, near Alghero, we can meet very interesting animals that hide in caves, tunnels and vaults (arch). The most characteristic of this part of the island is the red coral, corallum rubrum, which can be seen already at 5–6 meters deep. The part of Sardinia known as the coral riviera has slightly cooler water than the rest of the island, but thanks to this, the development of corals and other animals such as nudibranchs is lush. Here you can meet the sea horses Hipocampus sp.

On the east coast of the island near Olbia, the water is a few degrees warmer, and the rock formations create Black coral

32

Gruper posing for a photo around Santa Teresa, 28 meters deep

Isola Piana Caverns, 7 meters deep

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33

Chrisso wreck, 3 meters deep, around Punta la Greca

the perfect place for a diverse marine fauna. Here the gray

Underwater, we can come across a large Chrisso trans-

limestone rocks of Tavolara look out over the pink granite

port wreck, which crashed on the rocks of Punta La Gre-

building Molara. These are islets near Capo Coda Cavallo,

ca in 1974. A great place for photographers, which is rich

where you can watch Flamingos :)

in various species of nudibranchs, groupers, moray eels and congers.

Near Isola Rosa we can observe amphorae from 2,000 years ago, and near Isola Del Fico great anchors with an unclear history.

A very interesting dive site located in the open sea near the island of Tavolara is called Papa uno and Panpa due.

These are several rock cones growing from 40 to 15 meters deep.

Overgrown with yellow and red gorgonias, in which there are large groupers of 4 different species.

It is a typical Mediterranean reef, a huge ecosystem enclosed in a small space of a rock cone (pinnacle). Here you can meet dolphins, stingrays and even mole moles, i.e. sunfish :). It is an amazing place, but intended for advanced divers, because it is very easy to lose yourself in the colors of gorgonia and the blue of the surrounding water. Around September, lampugi, or koryphena, appear in herds, hunting for small fry.

Tre fratelli is a place on the open sea with a visibility sometimes exceeding 40 meters. Full of various interesting animals, such as Rhizostomapulmo, amazing jellyfish or cicala, spotted crab. The most impressive, however, is the

Flamingos from Porto Taverna

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SPRZĘT NURKOWY SPRZEDAŻ I SERWIS

Ghost Cave

Gorgonia from Papa uno

underwater landscape, and diving in this place is like a flight in the mountains, which we can take thanks to the surrounding water.

I have been associated with Sardinia for over ten years and each time I try to get to know another one corner. It is an amazing island, full of interesting places both on land and under water. I recommend visiting this island especially now, when it is definitely safer to move a little closer to your country, and at the same time discover the advantages of the Mediterranean Sea. In the next issues, I will try to present the individual dive sites on this amazing island so close to us... tbc...

Kaszubska Droga 13, 80 - 209 Chwaszczyno info@ocean-tech.pl +48 58 711 76 85

www.sklep.ocean-tech.pl

t r av e l s

Cyprus and everything is clear … like the sun there

Text and photos robert tomasz pietras

Are you looking for the perfect place to dive?

Cyprus is such a place. It is only a few hours of flight from most European capitals and we can already enjoy the blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea.

Y

ou will have perfect visibility and the right water temperature, which in winter is not less than 16ºC, and in

summer it fluctuates around 30ºC. Cyprus, the third largest island in the Mediterranean Sea and the most populous. When planning, it is best to choose one of the two international airports in Paphos or Larnaca. I will focus on the airport in Larnaca and on the

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south-eastern part of the island, where the famous Zenobia wreck is located.

Another day and more dives at Zenobia. Now we will need flashlights, but these are still dives up to 30 m. When

Zenobia is a Swedish RO-RO (roll-on, roll-off) ferry, which

we enter the first cargo compartment through the door, we

sank with its entire load in June 1980. It should be mentioned

will have perfectly preserved trucks under us, including one

that it was the maiden voyage of this unit, built in 1979 in

that transported cow bones or another that transported

Sweden. The wreck is recognized as one of the TOP 10 div-

bottles with technical spirit. To see them, we have to rise to

ing sites in the world for recreational divers. However, not

a depth of about 19 m under the starboard, there are a lot

only they will find something for themselves. The wreck lies

of them there. As divers with the AOWD degree, we can visit

on the left side at a depth of 42 m, while its right side is at

another load compartment. By swimming through the hatch

16 m, so even divers with a basic level can dive and see the

that was used to attach the tow rope, you will find yourself in

172 m long vessel. There are about a hundred trucks, con-

a world of complete darkness. Moving to the left we can ad-

struction equipment and one Żiguli passenger car – private

mire, among others huge drill bit, forklift or cars with wood.

car of the captain of the ship. Thanks to the good visibility,

Moving to the right, among the loads, there will be military

divers with OWD can see the first bolt, which is at 27 m, or

sleeping bags, "Frania" washing machines, other loads with

trucks that are already from 25 m. AOWD divers may enter

wood, but also a "blue kopeck" – the captain's car, which lies

the captain's bridge and the crew cabins. Visit a restaurant

at a depth of 31 m. On the way back, we will see Playmobil

where the red checkered carpet still hangs on the floor, so

toys, police batons with chocolate covered nuts, or other

it's worth taking a flashlight with you to confirm its color.

toys and sweets that have been lying there for 40 years.

The bar also has taps for drinks and beer. Then we enter

Having diving license up to 40m, we can swim between the

the passenger compartment and leave it in the middle of

loads, see the bottom screw which is at 40 m or the chicken

the wreck. Daylight reaches these places, so even without

eggs resting on the bottom. An engine compartment will

lighting, we will see what the wreck looks like inside. Then

also be available, the entrance to which is located 38 m deep.

along the side, where the rescue boats are located, we will return to one of the many relief lines.

Remember that we will not have much time, because as recreational divers, we cannot perform decompression

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37

dives. As you have noticed, Zenobia is a great place to train in wreck or deep diving. As technical divers, we can safely make 10 dives and none of them will be repeated. It all depends on your experience. The lower compartment of the passenger cabins, the first cargo compartment where you can swim between cars at a depth of 38 m, the second cargo level which I already mentioned. The third level that is available to the most experienced divers. It houses more loads, such as Persian carpets, and thanks to the fact that there are not many dives there, everything is in perfect condition. Engine compartment, workshop or extinguishing chamber.

As you can see, there is really a lot to see here. But the wreck is not only the ironwork, it is also home to many species of animals, incl. barracudas, groupers, lionfish, minerals (tuna family) or turtles, nudibranchs and many other species. Zenobia is a great place for photographers. Everyone will find something for him/herself.

Okay, Cyprus is not only Zenobia.

Nearby there is another wreck – Alexandria, which is a large fishing boat that lies between 20 and 30 meters deep.

This place is liked by lionfish and tuna. Unfortunately, the bridge has already fallen and we cannot swim to it, but we can easily see it around.

There is another wreck of the Champagne yacht nearby.

The maximum depth is 18m.

Another ship has recently been sunk – Elpida. It is situated in the Golden Bay, up to 30 meters deep. The seventy-meter vessel, although it has been lying for six months, has already attracted many species of fish. The ship is placed on the keel, making it perfect for shooting. As in the case of Zenobia, we can swim inside to see the cargo compartments or the engine compartment.

That's it for the wrecks in Larnaca.

Now we will move east to Cavo Greko.

Since we started with wrecks, we also have a few in this area. We will start with Agia Napa and the Kerynia wreck, which was sunk in 2012 near Nissi Beach. It lies at a depth of 30 meters. There is no vegetation nearby, only white sand, thanks to which the visibility on the wreck is insane, which is a treat for underwater photographers. Unfortunately, this has its downsides as there aren't many fish around. The wreck is a 30m long war boat.

Further east in Paralimni we have two wrecks Liberty and a Nemesis III. Both were sunk with divers in mind. The first is at a depth of 30 m, the second at about 25 m. Both are resting on the keel. The advantage is that we can see both of these wrecks during one dive. Liberty is a small vessel,

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in fact the sides and superstructure, in which octopuses, moray eels and other fish hide. Nearby is the sunken Or-

We will start with Agia Napa and the Kerynia

thodox Cross and a statue of the Virgin Mary, which I have

wreck... It lies at a depth of 30 meters. There is

sunk myself  The wreck of the Nemesis III is quite a large fishing boat,

no vegetation nearby, only white sand, thanks to

in excellent condition. Another great place for photography.

which the visibility on the wreck is insane, which

We can find rays, turtles and shoals of jacks here. Last year,

is a treat for underwater photographers.

an artificial reef was created nearby, where there are already a lot of animals.

But Cavo Greko is not only wrecks, there are several

One is about 6 m long and the other a little longer, starting

dive sites among which everyone will find something for

at a depth of 13 m and slowly descending to 18 m. There are

themselves. We'll start with Green Bay. A beautiful bay in

corals in the cave, which the lionfish likes.

Protaras, where practically all diving centers from the area

Another place is Konnos Bay and CyclopCave – the name

of Cavo Greko and Larnaca, as well as Limassol come with

can be misleading because the cave is unfortunately not

people who want to start their diving adventure. The perfect

underwater. The dropping bottom of up to 50 m makes it

flat entrance to the bay, no currents and only sometimes

a perfect place for recreational and technical divers, where

slight waves make it an ideal place where we can do all the

we do not have to dive from a boat. On the other side of the

exercises and check diving. Then the bottom slowly drops

bay, we have Chapel, a small church, and under the water

to 10 m. Along the way, there are lots of huge boulders,

huge boulders, lots of grass and fish. The bottom drops to

grass, where we can also meet turtles, and shoals of fish.

about 40 m.

On the sandy bottom there are "ancient" columns and statues, which I also had the pleasure of sinking, cutting the

We move a little further west to the Sea Caves spot. The maximum depth is 16 m and five caves, Caverna 

legs that were damaged during the sinking. Unfortunately,

The first one is 12 m deep and about 6m long, the next

some of them were stolen a few years ago. After diving, we

one starts at 12 m, is about 30 m long and shallows up to

will be able to see the remains of amphorae from several

6 m. In the very center there is a quite large hole through

thousand years ago.

which the sun's rays come, so you can take really great pho-

For divers who are already certified, it is possible to swim up to 18 m. There are two caves that we can swim through.

tos. Another one at a depth of 6 meters, where we will see shoals of fish, and scyllarus and other animals.

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

39

Now it's time to work with your fins and we have another cave at a depth of 8 meters. When entering it, we have to

were sunk a few years ago.

bend In half in order to get out vertically at 5 m. We return

For those planning to fly to Paphos, there will also be

to the place of entry and swim into the last cave, from which

something for diving. For example the White River with its

we will exit through two holes to the shore.

colorful canyons or the St. George's Island and the Vera

Another place is Canyon. A very picturesque place with beautiful corals and amazing rock formations, walls and a canyon where we start and end our dive.

K wreck. Picturesque places of the Akamas peninsula, where there are still remains of ancient civilization.

We return to Larnaca, where there are more wrecks, un-

We return towards Larnaca to the village of Xylofagou

fortunately not available for divers. It is i.a. Mazotos wreck,

where we have several dive sites accessible from the shore.

where we can dive only exceptionally, when we want to cat-

SheepDeep where we can safely make two different dives up

alog the remains with archaeologists. Diving on this wreck

to a depth of 18 m. As before, we have interesting rocks and

is organized once a year and in this case you need to apply

boulders here, and what I like the most about this place are

to the Ministry of Fisheries for permits.

the stalactites rising from the bottom, among which octo-

However, Cyprus is not only about diving. The island is

puses and nudibranchs hide. A little further away is another

a great idea for a trip with the whole family. Larnaca will

site with similar formations and corals by the shore.

be the best starting point. The airport nearby and the city's

Diving from a boat in the vicinity of Xylofagou and Dekelia, we can enter the bat cave. We start at 6 m and swim in to watch these flying "mice" and then come back to swim deeper into the next caves.

location make a great "command center" for exploring the island.

In Larnaca we have an aqueduct from the Roman Empire, the remains of a fortress next to a mosque. The salt lake

There is also the wreck of HMS Cryckiet, a gunboat from

and the mosque of Umm Haram (Hala Sultan), the wife of

the Second World War. It lies upside down, so you have to

one of the companions of the Prophet Muhammad, and is

dive under it to see what's inside. Another wreck is a barge,

buried there. In the city center there is also the church of

metal structures and helicopter wreckage sunk by the British

St. Lazarus. Going towards Limassol, we have other archae-

army for exercises.

ological sites worth seeing. For example, the bottom of a salt

We return to Larnaca and continue west to Limassol, the banking center of Cyprus. Here we have sunk two wrecks,

40

Lady Thasis and Costandis. These are two fishing boats that

lake near Akratiri through which the road to Limassol leads.

There is another ancient church in Agia Napa.

travels

In the middle of the island, we have the Trodos mountains, where we can ski in winter, there are cross-country trails and a T-bar lift. Just below, we have several waterfalls that can be a great spot for romantic hikes.

Going further north to the so-called Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, not recognized by any country except Turkey, we can go to St. Hilarion. The road abounding in serpentines gives us a wonderful view of the city of Kerynia (Girme), where we have another castle with the remains of one of the historic wrecks.

Personally, I recommend crossing the border near Derynia and going east to the Karpaz peninsula. On the way, visit the ghost town of Famagusta, where there are still remnants of the war between Turkey and Cyprus in the 70s of the last century. There are, among others a castle known for the art of Othello, William Sheaksper and a medieval church. A bit further we have Salamis, an ancient city and several other monuments, as well as kilometers long beaches with white sand. On the peninsula, there is a Monastery, to which a road full of wild donkeys leads, who eagerly look into our car and await food. Driving this picturesque road you will come across the oldest Christian church on the island.

Going from Karpaz towards the setting sun to Kerynia, we can admire the cliff embankment and the mountains covered with vegetation. Then from Kerynia we drive south towards the capital of Cyprus – Nicosia, where we cross the border and further south to Larnaca.

Cyprus is a cluster of cultures. There were Persians, Romans, Greeks, Arabs, English, French, so all over the island we have remnants of the conquests. Not only in architecture, but also in food.

There are plenty of seafood and lamb restaurants in Larnaca itself. Personally, I recommend the Lebanese restaurant Al Sultan, which is located on the Fenikudes beach in the city center. Great cuisine and a great atmosphere, and on Fridays and Saturdays we can enjoy belly dancing with a wonderful view of the sea, palm trees and the moon. For those who want to lie on the beach, I suggest the previously mentioned Fenikudes or Psarolimano and Makenzie, where the beach connects to the airport and we can observe planes approaching.

The island has about 1 million inhabitants. It is divided into two parts. The currency in Cyprus is the Euro, and in the occupied territories, the Turkish Lira. When crossing the border, we do not need a passport, we only need an ID card.

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

41

t r av e l s

Gozo in a nutshell Text and photos audrey coudel

Mgarr Ix Xini Bay

The Maltese archipelago lies in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, 93 km south of Italy, 288 km north of Africa, and includes three islands: Malta, Gozo and Comino, and many other islets.

H

istorically, its central location between Europe, Africa

sister island, namely Gozo, known locally as Għawdex. Karst

and the Middle East has made the Archipelago a stra-

caves, tunnels, crevices and hollows create a spectacular

tegic commercial crossroad and naval base, resulting in

landscape both above and below the water, making Gozo

a graveyard of more than 100 wrecks, from a 2,700-year-old

a unique gem among the Maltese Islands.

Phoenician wreck, to battleships and WWII aircraft wrecks.

The archipelago lies on a large carbonate platform and is

For years, the Maltese Ministry of Tourism has been ac-

composed entirely of dense sedimentary rock that has been

tively promoting this heritage among the diving community

deposited during the ever-changing Mediterranean levels

by supporting projects that attract recreational and technical

over millions of years. Carbonate deposits were originally

divers from around the world, making Malta's reputation

living organisms, such as coral reefs, shells, or very fine-

one of the best wreck diving sites.

grained plankton that thickened and eroded due to waves

Apart from wreck diving, few people know that the best

42

and currents.

word to sum up the Maltese archipelago is "limestone".

From lower coral limestone 35 million years ago to up-

Limestone shaped the stunning topography of the islands

per coral limestone 7 million years ago, a layered sediment

on the surface and turned Malta into an underwater para-

of particles has deposited under the water, creating is-

dise surrounded by warm, clear waters and a year-round

lands that are only the youngest rock peaks to rise above

temperate climate. Even fewer people have heard of Malta's

the sea.

travels

Double Arch

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43

Cominoland Wreck

"GHAWDEX" DIVING

44

Neither Malta nor Gozo have conserved their fish stocks

The ferry crossing only takes 25 minutes to leave Mal-

well enough in recent years for the islands to offer as much

ta's constant busy atmosphere and then set foot on Gozo.

marine life as they used to. Sharks, dolphins, and turtles

Mostly populated by farmers and fishermen, Gozo is more

have disappeared a long time ago and are rarely seen. How-

rural and peaceful. The island has 30,000 inhabitants

ever, the development of artificial reefs and the project to

spread over an area of 7 by 14 kilometers. Gozo is known

create marine reserves in Gozo are still ongoing.

among divers who prefer to stay away from the hustle and

The species that can still be found: polychaetes, seahors-

bustle of the main island and enjoy a more spectacular

es, groupers, amberfish, octopuses, cuttlefish, barracuda,

underwater topography.

small rays, moray eels, mullets and parrotfish.

Although theoretically you can dive here all year round,

Most of the dive sites are located on the north, west and

the rapid changes in weather conditions during the winter

south coasts of the island. The vast majority of them are

make it safer to visit the island in the months of April to

accessible from the shore, and the relatively small area of

November.

the island makes them accessible within a short drive.

At the peak of the diving season, Gozo welcomes indi-

Even though the main road network of the island has

vidual divers as well as organized groups with guides. The

been renovated in recent years, some dive sites require you

Malta Tourism Authority together with the Professional Div-

to cross fields or drive down steep roads, which makes the

ing Schools Association of Malta maintain all facilities for the

use of small Jeeps popular on the island.

diving community. These are roads, ladders, buoys, toilet

Gozo offers a large selection of dive sites, with entrances

cabins. Everything you need to enjoy safe access to water

ranging from easy to difficult, which require a good diver's

and a comfortable stay.

condition and suitable weather conditions.

Gozo has its own hyperbaric chamber, designed to

It has everything: wrecks for recreational and technical

treat mild cases where the seriousness of diving accidents

divers, shallow, protected bays for beginners and trainees,

does not require patients to be transported by helicopter

deep walls just a few meters from the shore, but most of all,

to Malta.

the unique topography of tunnels and caves.

travels

Cominoland Wreck

Blue Hole

WRECKS

Eighty meters long, the MV XlendiWreck was the first

XattL'Ahmar is one of the most popular destinations on

wreck to be sunk in 1999. Unfortunately, it sank upside

the southeast coast of Gozo, as it hosts three shipwrecks,

down, and the interior collapsed thereby making it unsta-

the only one on the island, lying on a sandy bottom, approx-

ble and dangerous for penetration. However, the two large

imately fifty meters apart. They were all sunk near the shore

propellers located in the shallower part are worth the dive.

at a recreational depth of 40 meters, creating an artificial

MV Karwela followed it a few years later, in 2006. It is

reef. Entry requires a short walk from the car park and is

sitting perfectly upright and is about fifty meters long. It re-

accessed from two short ladders.

mains the most popular of the three wrecks among technical

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

45

MV Xlendi Wreck

divers looking for rust in the deepest decks and underwater

a 70-meter tunnel cuts across the cliff and offers beauti-

photographers who never stop shooting pics of the majes-

ful lighting.

tic stairs leading to the three decks. The wreck is safe for

Xwejni Bay, located in the north, offers a rather unique

penetration due to large holes cut along the sides before

underwater scenery where the limestone has been carved

sinking the vessel.

over the years, creating small labyrinthine passages in

MV Cominoland was sunk in the same year. It sits upright on a sandy seabed and is about thirty-five meters long. Its two decks offer great potential for safe penetration

the shallows.

A few other shallow bays like Hondoq or Red Bay are visited by beginner divers or diving schools.

and exploration. deep walls bays Recreational divers looking for easy access to water are favored by the shallow bays of the southern coast, protected by rocks.

The most famous is Mgarr Ix Xini, a three-hundred-meter stretch of reef and sand leading to two caves, surrounded by high cliffs protecting from the winds. The marine life spotted during the day makes it an ideal place for night diving.

46

Deeper spots (+ 40 meters) can be found all over the island.

On the west coast, Dwejra is the most popular diving site on Gozo. Includes the Inland Sea, the remains of the former AzureWind Blue Hole, provides access to Coral Cave, Crocodile Rock, Big Bear and Little Bear.

A shallow, semicircular lagoon 60 meters wide in the Inland Sea opens into a tunnel 80 meters long with vertical

Xlendi Bay is another popular destination for both recre-

walls and a gravel bottom. Outside the tunnel, the seabed

ational divers due to its shallow easy ascent, and technical

drops more than 50 meters south into the Blue Hole. In its

divers for the deep wall at its end. In the middle of the bay,

northern part, the San Dimitri cliffs offer a series of cracks

travels

Karwela Wreck

Inland Sea

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

47

Xlendi Tunnel

and caves, some within swimming distance, including the

with a gas pocket and unique square formations on the walls

whale cave and the Tal-Barba cave which is approximately

that resemble some temples visited on land. Even though

120 meters to penetrate.

Billinghurst offers a wide cave zone (daylight zone) as some-

The Blue Hole can be reached after 200 meters of difficult

one penetrates deeper into the cave area, the loss of natural

walk along a rocky path. This sink is approximately 10 me-

light and the distance to the cave exit can be potentially risky

ters wide and 15 meters deep. A beautiful arch opens onto

for a single cylinder diver.

the remains of the AzureWindow, a 30-meter-long arch that

In the same area, the Bottle Neck Cave is a demanding

collapsed in 2017 into massive blocks of limestone that rolled

long ladder climb and allows deep technical diving. A cave

down to over 80 meters deep.

with a narrow 30-meter entrance that allows little light and

On the south coast, Ras Il Hobz, also known as the Middle

opens onto a fairly large chamber decorated with fine coral.

Finger, is a peak rising from over 80 meters to 10 meters,

You can go out from a distance of 60 meters on a sandy

making it a popular destination for technical divers due to its

bottom with the right mixture of gases.

ease of access from the shore. The summit is home to abun-

CathedralCave is a large cave and at the same time safer

dant marine life such as amberjack, dentex and moray eels.

to dive, despite difficult access through the highest ladder of

In addition to the double arch, a large formation located

the island. It consists of a huge dome with access only under

more than 40 meters deep that requires a long swim with

the sea. Piercing the surface inside the cave, the dome is lit

easy entry into Xwejni Bay, the cliffs on the north coast offer

by the sun's rays piercing through small holes in the wall.

mainly ladder entrances with direct access to over 40 meters

Every sound, word or wave echoes off the walls.

deep around Reqqa Point.

GREEK LEGEND GOZO AND CALYPSO caves There are numerous cracks, tunnels and caves around the island. Some of them can be difficult and confusing. SEEK

48

Whoever visits and dives in Gozo is charmed by the beauty of the island, its tranquility and will definitely plan a return or stay.

CORRECT TRAINING AND GIVE UP IF YOU ARE NOT TRAINED.

The island is surrounded by myths and there is much

The most visited cave that can be accessed from the

debate as to whether Gozo is the legendary island of "Ogy-

shore is the Billinghurst Cave, which is the largest cave lo-

gia" mentioned in the Odyssey of Homer, where Calypso

cated near Reqqa in the north. At a reasonable depth of

charmed and held Odysseus captive on her island for seven

25 meters, its length of 120 meters leads to a dark chamber

years to make him her immortal husband.

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

49

t r av e l s

Phuket Island

Text sylwia kosmalska-juriewicz

Photos adrian juriewicz

Thailand

A long time ago I got a postcard from Thailand, a real one, handwritten and delivered by a postman.

A postcard that travelled half the globe to reach me. It had all the hallmarks of a journey that a person often feels when he sets out to the end of the world.

PHUKET Phuket

50

travels

I land on the island of Phuket in the late afternoon. The sun slowly sets on the horizon, creating a golden glow in the sea. Straight from the airport we go to the hotel, which is situated on a small hill with a beautiful view of the Andaman Sea. The reception desk is an open space, surrounded by a garden planted with plumeria trees that bend under an incredible amount of white and pink flowers.

Despite the exhaustion, we decided to eat our first dinner in Thailand, downtown. The streets are bustling with life, the smell of grilled dishes is everywhere, shrimps, calamari, fish, fresh pomegranate and lime juices, banana pancakes, fruit ice cream... it is a real paradise for the palate. We do not enter the restaurant, we choose street food, sit on plastic stools at a table with a crooked leg. We order grilled shrimps in hot chili sauce, served with algae salad. The flavours of Asia will explode in our mouths, now we know we really came here...

The next day we get up at dawn, with a cup of delicious coffee in hand, we admire the sunrise from our hotel terrace. Coffee in such a place tastes delicious, we enjoy each sip accompanied by exotic birds. After breakfast, we get into a minibus and drive to the diving center, 15 minutes away from our hotel. We are welcomed by Alex and Mike who will be our guides and dive supervisors for the next three days.

We receive colourful plastic boxes, signed with our names, in which we put the equipment, and leave the suitcases and bags at the diving center. In this form, our equipment goes to the port and is packed on the boat. We drive a few minutes to the port in Halong, from where we go diving.

The ships are moored close together, tight enough for us to easily cross several decks to our boat. Before that, however, we remove the flip-flops and leave them in a special shoe basket. Our boat is large and very comfortable. The lower equipment deck is practically all divided by several rows of low benches on which the cylinders stand, attached in such a way that none of them fall off while sailing. Under the benches, the staff put our boxes with diving equipment, and on the benches, they placed towels and reusable water bottles with drinking water, each signed with a name. Everything is well prepared and wrapped up neat and tidy. During

T

our stay on the island of Phuket, we bought a few diving

his postcard, despite being "tired", was the most beautiful

days, during which we visited the most interesting diving

card I have ever been given... a monk in orange robes wan-

sites in the vicinity of Phuket Island – Shark Point, Anemone

dering through a rainforest with an elephant by his side. This

Reef, Phi Phi island, Racha Noi, King Cruiser, Racha Yai.

card made me want to visit Thailand. I wanted to see a country

Today we dive three times and we swim to the first div-

that emanates peace and smile with my own eyes. "Travel is

ing site (Shark Point) for about two hours. It is one of the

my home" – wrote Matsuo Basho. Travel is the word that best

most popular and most visited places. It is located between

describes who I am and what I miss the most in the world.

Anemone Reef and the King Cruiser wreck. It owes its name

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

51

52

travels

to Loeopart sharks, which can be found here resting on the

points to a small table under a tree, all for free. You can drink

sand or swimming among rock formations.

at will. And when everyone has finshed drinking, feel free to

Anemone Reef is a paradise for photographers and film-

sit on the chairs, and we begin. My name is Sexy Jamala, wel-

makers of the underwater world. The place, as the name

come to our company. Today we are going on a trip, we will

suggests, is famous for anemones, which like carpets sur-

visit several islands, one is very dangerous, because there

round the rock that rises from the bottom of the Andaman

are monkeys on it, and what a surprise, you must buy a wa-

Sea. During one dive, we can swim around it several times

terproof bag on a string for your phone, since it will protect

observing the extremely rich marine life. There are not only

the device from getting wet and stolen by unruly animals.

anemone fish, which live in symbiosis with anemones, but

Remember, Jamala added, this is a must-have accessory that

also numerous schools of small tropical fish, nudibranchs,

everyone must acquire for their safety, because macaques

seahorses, moray eels, lionfish and many other creatures

can be nasty and attack by surprise. We have several co-

that have chosen this place for their home.

lours to choose from. Another essential item are fins, you

King Cruiser is a majestic catamaran wreck that used to

absolutely have to rent them or buy them, because in the

sail between Phuket Island and the Phi Phi Islands. Under

places where we will swim under the surface of the water,

mysterious circumstances during one of the voyages in

sea urchins are swarming. Here is a mock-up that illustrates

1997, it hit the reef and sank. Both passengers and crew

this (we see a faded banner depicting a human foot with sea

members were rescued. The shipwreck lies at a depth of

urchin spikes stuck in it). The treatment is very expensive,

32 m, the upper deck is slightly below 20 m. A lot of contro-

added Jamala, and very long. Nothing wants to heal, so it is

versy arose around this event, as the 85-meter passenger

best to buy fins or rent them. The list of essential protective

ship travelled from Phuket to Phi Phi very often, and on that

accessories only grew longer, and Jamala spoke of them with

unfortunate day it deviated from the course and hit the only

such conviction in her voice that before she finished speak-

possible obstacle on the route, on a beautiful sunny day.

ing, tourists crowded in queue to buy the necessary acces-

Today the catamaran is home to numerous sea creatures

sories that would save their lives and secure their phones.

and is a paradise for divers.

Everyone left the store with fins, glasses and colorful phone

Racha Yai is a perfect place for the so-called check dive

bags that would protect not only from water but also from

for people who have had a longer break in diving. The rocky slopes are covered with hard corals and the visibility exceeds thirty meters. While diving, we can meet moray eels, lionfish, turtles, clownfish, cuttlefish and many other creatures that have found shelter among corals.

After each dive, a light meal waited for us on the boat, then we rested on the bow waiting for the next dive.

After three days of diving, it is time for a full-day trip to Phi Phi Island, Maya and Khai Island. The driver is waiting in the hotel lobby, he will take us to the port, from where all the boats depart for these paradise islands. The trip takes about an hour. The car stops at the side of the road, right next to the snoorkelling accessories store. With a broad smile on her face, we are greeted by a short, plump woman – "Hello, I am Jamala, welcome to our office. Please join the pink group that I will guide. Tie all the pink ribbons around your wrists so you will not get lost and I will keep an eye on you.

From now on, you form one team and belong to one boat".

In front of the store, under a small roof, there are plastic chairs arranged in several rows. More cars with tourists come, this time they get green and red ribbons. It is slowly getting crowded. Suddenly, I am disturbed by the loud voice of our funny guide. “There is tea and coffee there, and she

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

53

54

aggressive attacks by wild animals, as promised by Jamala.

and scratched her neck. Squeaking, screaming and panic. It

There is only one conclusion, if macaques do not get us, sea

is even difficult to comment on this situation, because I be-

urchins will do it for sure!!! After the "educational" part and

lieve that there is no cure for human stupidity... The island is

familiarising ourselves with all the procedures, we went to

very beautiful, but also very crowded with tourists. Our visit

the port, where a boat was waiting for us. We went out to sea

coincided with the high tourist season (May) in Thailand. We

at great speed, in a boat powered by three large engines. We

get on the boat after a short visit to the island and set off

take an hour to the first point of our Phi Phi Don “Monkey

from the shore, drinking Coke and free water.

Beach” trip, the journey passes quickly, some people used

The next item on the agenda is snorekeling in the bay.

this time for a short nap. The boat stopped right on the

Remember, dear, Jamala says: "this is a place where sharks

beach at that moment Sexy Jamali spoke: "drinks, water,

can be found, if you are lucky you will meet a baby shark, and

cola free, all free, watch out for monkeys, she added and in

if you are unlucky it will be its mother". Each participant gets

30 minutes we meet on the boat. If someone is late, we will

a mask and a pipe and we jump into the water one by one.

pick him up tomorrow. Remember the name of the boat and

Some people do this activity for the first time, as evidenced

be on time, she added, and now have fun and remember

by the inability to put on the face mask and choking on wa-

that Jamala is waiting for you."

ter. Lots of colourful, beautiful fish swim to us, the water is

The narrow, sandy beach is surrounded by cliffs, densely

pleasantly warm and, as always, we enjoy the contact with it.

covered with exotic plants. Here and there a small macaque

In a good company and in a wonderful place, time flies

sneaks and rather avoided people. During our visit to the

inexorably fast and it is not known when it is time for

beach, there was one incident involving a tourist from an-

lunch, for which we are sailing to Phi Phi Don. Emerald

other boat. Despite the warnings and the prohibition, the

water, white sand, palm trees, saturated green in these few

lady decided to pet the monkey, and it jumped on her back

words I can describe this small island where muslims live

advertisemet

and serve tourists. It was an extraordinary surprise, especially for those who wanted to buy alcohol on the island. We eat lunch in a restaurant overlooking the sea and a few small shops. I separate for a moment from the group, walk on the beach, rest and swim in the sea. I would like to stay a little longer, but Jamala's voice reminds us that it is time to get on the boat, it is time to go on to the next island.

Maya Bay, probably most of you watched the movie called: "The Beach", starring Leonardo Dicaprio. It was on this beach that the scenes for this movie were shot. Which contributed even more to the popularity of the island. The beach surrounds the island of Koh Phi Phi Lee. When we type the word Thailand in the google search engine each time we will see a photo of wooden boats with colourful pennants tied to their bows. The photos were taken on the island we just sailed to. Maya Bay is an extremely charming and fairy-tale place. Just as perfect as in the folders advertising the tour. Wooden boats decorated with flowers stand neatly moored by the shore. Anyone can take the boat or take a photo in it, of course for a small fee. The beach is small, only 200 m long and surrounded by 100 m high cliffs.

Khai Nai island is the last point of the programme on the map of our full-day, intense trip. The island is very intimate and in addition to Cola and free water, Jamala also prepared a fruit snack. We have two hours to relax and unwind.

As for me, enough time to enjoy the heavenly views. Jamala thanked everyone and everyone for a fantastic adventure together. She also noted that if we are satisfied with the trip, Jamala accepts only cash, no credit card.

k n ow l e dg e

A travelling diver Part 1

W

hether you are taking a 23-hour flight to the other end of the world or a 23-minute trip to the

lake, there's a journey of some kind behind each and every dive. That is why safety is crucial aspect of our mission here at DAN. This smart guide is a fast and easy tool to help you prepare for a diving trip to local and remote destinations.

you to pack it easily and start off.

• Prepare a first aid kit and emergency kit.

• Update your certificates.

Before you start off: • Check the weather, currents and the water temperature at your destination.

• Adjust your packing checklist for this specific trip.

• Check your first aid kit and refill if needed.

Diving gear checklist This list is to provide the basics to facilitate adjusting your luggage to the details of your trip. Draft your own basic list,

• Tell someone where you're headed.

• Remember to take enough water and healthy snacks with you.

then edit and adjust it, adding any special equipment, as well as clothes, toiletries and other personal items needed

International trips

for a specific trip.

Two months before the trip: • Make sure your passport is valid for at least six month

Domestic trips One of the advantages of domestic trips is that they may

• Check whether a tourist visa will be required.

be more spontaneous and cheaper than international trips.

• Find out whether you need any vaccinations.

Knowing how to reach your destination and prepare even

• Complete the RSTC medical form and ask a doctor to

for the shortest trip to the nearest coast, lake or quarry may make your local trips easier, safer and more pleasant.

Get prepared: • Draft a packing checklist based on your typical dives.

• Maintain your equipment in a condition that would allow

56

from the last planned date of the trip.

sign it, if needed.

One month before the trip: • Review prescription drugs regulations at your country of destination.

• Get the local currency and discuss international ATM

arrangements with your bank.

• Find out whether your credit cards will charge transaction fees.

Two weeks before the trip: • Adjust your packing checklist.

• Create a global connections plan.

• Ensure you have bought or renewed your travel insurance.

One week before the trip: Make two copies of each of the following documents:

only way to endure the headache related to traveling with your diving gear, which might be troublesome, burdensome and difficult to explain to the airport security. Follow the guidelines below to facilitate this process.

Check before the check-in If you are planning to bring your gear with you, think what luggage you will need to check in and what can you take on board in order to ensure you can dive even if your bags don’t reach your destination. Remember also to consult the airline

passport (preferably color copies), driving license, credit

and destination country luggage limits.

cards, travel plan, accommodation confirmation and visa (if

Carry-on luggage: Regulators, dive computer, mask

needed). Leave one set of copies to someone at home and

Carry-on or checked luggage: BCD, fins, diving snorkel

pack the other one separately from the original documents.

Checked luggage only: Cutting tools, diving cylinders.

24 hours before the trip:

When traveling with cylinders, make sure the valves are

• Check in for your flight and make sure you have a seat

screwed out

assigned.

• Review your packing list once again and copy it to make packing for the return trip easier (so that you don’t forget

Renting diving gear If you decide to forgo the hassle of traveling with your

your toiletries, chargers, medications etc.).

own gear, find a dive operator that offers equipment rentals.

• Inform someone about your travel plans.

Quality of rentals may differ, so make sure you thoroughly check the diving centers at your destination. If you decide

Flying with diving gear Sometimes looking forward to the fantastic dives is the

to rent equipment on site, you still may want to bring with you a few things, like your diving mask or fins.

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

57

DIVING SITE RULES AND REGULATIONS Rules may differ depending on the site you'll be diving.

Regulations may cover anything, from the type of equipment

vironment. Find out what is required and what is prohibited before you start packing.

you are allowed to use to what times you are allowed to dive.

Before you choose a dive site, ask these questions:

What are the dive site access requirements?

Does my training match the diving site requirements?

erties may require buying a ticket or a diving card. You

Not all dive sites allow open water recreational diving.

might also learn that access is limited to certain places only.

Some sites – likes caverns and caves – require more ad-

Don’t show up on site just to be turned back – do your own

vanced training. Make sure you meet the certification and

reconnaissance.

Protected diving sites or sites located near private prop-

training requirements.

Good diving practice suggests divers follow the estabWhat equipment is allowed?

58

lished rules wherever in the world they are. Remember that

Some sites require special equipment, like buoys or inde-

diving regulations are in place to protect your safety and

pendent air sources. Others prohibit the use of some items,

the marine environment, as well as the local customs and

such as dive gloves or crossbows, to protect the marine en-

regulations at your travel destination.

k n ow l e dg e

”Shush!”

on the benefits of diving with a Deaf diver Text and photos karolina jakóbczak

The vast majority won't be able to imagine these, as your

Diving has you witness a symphony of various sounds, including the humming of motorboat engines, the guide's rattle, air bubbles escaping towards the water surface, the sound of water and many more.

hearing works quite well. Some of you will also ask: But how?! How could you not hear anything underwater, where there are so many different sounds?!

This is the everyday life for me and some other Deaf divers – both on a daily basis and when we dive. But don’t be worried – it is not as bad as it could seem.

Our sense of touch allows us to feel the bubbles escaping from our regulators and from time to time we can feel

T

vibrations coming from a source we are unable to identify, his is the underwater opera you all know and love in

but I must admit that diving in this exceptional Silence is

your everyday dives. Now, try to imagine diving or stroll-

really relaxing and comfortable. As there is no ambience,

ing along the shore in complete silence. While you cannot

I can be fully focused on the visual reception of the beauti-

hear any sounds, no birds singing, no humming nor – when

ful underwater world and communicating with my buddy.

you take underwater “strolls” – your own breath or the

Thus, the underwater world becomes my private “oasis”

sound of air bubbles. Can you imagine that?

– a space where the land's reality has no access.

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

59

Benefits of diving with a Deaf diver One could ask: what are the benefits of diving with a Deaf

spent in decompression stops pass faster! There would be no place for boredom!

buddy? Well, let me tell you right away!

1. Deaf divers are highly focused on everything that is happening underwater. So nothing eludes their attention!

2. The Deaf usually have a field of view that is broader than

During our underwater ventures we communicate with basic diver signs.

that of people who can hear, because they are strong

The basic question signs we all know: about your bud-

visualizers and they notice every the tiniest movement.

dy's air supply, whether they are cold and the endless “OK?”

3. They are usually quite fast to grasp the message oth-

and “OK!” signs. Those signs, as you all know, are designed

er people are trying to communicate with their fingers,

to facilitate communication between buddies and are usu-

hands or face expression. Although it is hard to read from

ally sufficient.

one’s face underwater, yet you can communicate quite fast with hand gestures.

4. A world lacking (or with limited) verbal communication is

60

communication

But for me – a person who speaks the Polish Sign Language on a daily basis – this way of conveying information is a very poor and simplified form of communication.

the natural environment of Deaf people, so they acquire

So as a person using the Polish Sign Language in everyday

non-verbal communication faster and easier, which often

life – I encourage my diver friends to explore this visual-spatial

makes them perfect buddies for diving adventures.

language, which only appears to be complex and difficult.

They would be pleased if you knew the basics of their sign

If you dived with a Deaf diver, your communication pos-

language. An underwater chat would surely make the time

sibilities would be greater if you knew their sign language!

knowledge

You have no idea how pleased a Deaf diver would be, if you knew the basics of their sign language.

Sometimes I find myself wanting to sign something to my diving buddy but then a red light saying “STOP!” appears in my head. “They don’t speak sign language! They would understand just as much as I wouldn't understand a conversation in a crowded bar…”.

At times like these, I realize how nice it would be if at least some hearing divers accepted the challenge and signed up for a basic sign language course.

After completing such a course, one could be able to use some of the signs in communication during diving. Oh, for the love of Poseidon! The world would be even more beautiful and merrier, and every venture even louder (literally and figuratively).

As encouragement, let me add that across Poland there are 6 to 8 million people with hearing deficiency, about 1 million with a serious hearing loss and about 30–50 thousand Deaf people (although there are no statistics for it).

I wouldn't need more than the fingers on one hand to count Deaf divers from Poland.

Savoir vivre Alright, enough of the mumbo-jumbo about sign languages and the associated benefits. Let me share some savoir vivre rules with you, or how to approach Deaf people: 1. If you don't look, you won't see. Look directly at the Deaf person, so that your mouth and face are well visible for them.

2. Staring contest! Or: maintain eye contact.

6. Paper and pen is your friend! If you can't overcome the

3. I can see a light, my lord! Ensure proper lighting, as Deaf

communication barrier between you, use pen and paper.

people relay mainly on their eyesight. Being in a half-lit

Although I guess inventions like a cell phone will also do

room or one with very little light makes us uncomfortable.

the trick. Click your notebook or speech translator and

So… turn on the light and admire each other's beauty!

have a nice conversation, buddy!

4. Remember! Some Deaf people can read lips, but not all

7. PATIENCE is my buddy! Be patient when communicating

of them. This is a very difficult art. So don’t rely only just

with a Deaf person! They might not get everything right

on this. Why? Let’s try an exercise: Play your favorite show

the first time, so you might need to rewind and repeat

on TV or YouTube. Ready? Now, turn off the sound. And?

calmly, whatever you wanted to say.

Difficult, isn’t it? This is what Deaf people feel like when

Remember these few simple rules and… GO FOR IT, FRIENDS!

lip reading.

5. Scream and shout! You can scream as much as you want

PS.

– we won’t hear you! Remember, it’s not about being

A huge request for all hearing-impaired divers! During

LOUD, but rather about speaking calmly (so disable your

your first pre-dive briefings, be open about your hearing loss/

verbal assault rifle) and CLEAR without over-articulating

being deaf, so that the crew know about your hearing prob-

syllables. Try to communicate with facial expression and

lems and to avoid any misunderstandings that could affect

gestures. It’s nothing difficult! Just your typical charades!

your dives :)

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

61

planet earth

Chasing the Eastern Baltic cod

Text agata turowicz-cybula

Photos michal ČernÝ

Deep below the surface of the Baltic Sea, where, without a flashlight, you can only see the outline of a wreck, and the temperature of the water makes wetsuit diving an extreme adventure, the Eastern Baltic cod lives. This large creature with a barbel on its lower jaw is more commonly known as cod.

62

planet earth

I

n the Baltic Sea, it grows to over

species spawns in very deep regions of

the net or getting it on a fishing rod ends

120 cm in length, has three sepa-

the Baltic Sea. An adult female during

up with decompression sickness and

rate dorsal fins and two anal fins. The

breeding can lay from 500,000 to even

problems with the swim bladder.

cod diet is quite rich. Its massive and

9 million eggs. After 2–3 weeks, from the

The cod population in the Baltic Sea

elongated head with a huge mouth is

floating roe larvae of a few millimeters

is drastically decreasing year by year.

adapted to the predatory diet. The spin-

hatch, which at first live in the water,

Significant overfishing of this species in

dle-shaped body and a large tail fin al-

carried along with the sea currents. Af-

our sea is believed to be the likely cause

lows it to successfully chase the herring

ter another 3 months, the young fry be-

of this phenomenon. In order to protect

and sprat. A well-developed chin barbel,

gin to fall to the bottom and lead a de-

and restore its population, a total ban

on the other hand, helps to penetrate

mersal lifestyle, wandering into shallow

on eastern (our) cod stock was intro-

the bottom and search for such prey as

regions in search of food.

duced, which of course met with great

goby fish or crustaceans. Adult speci-

Despite its large size and strong body

opposition from fishermen.

mens do not despise their younger sib-

structure, cod is a sensitive fish. Con-

Cods are beautiful and majestic in-

lings, due to which they are classified

trary to its flat mate, flounder, which,

habitants of the Baltic Sea, which cannot

as cannibals.

when pulled from the water, can survive

be missed while diving among sunken

Cod is a euryhaline species, that is, it

on the surface for a few more hours, de-

wrecks. Unfortunately, there are fewer

can swim in waters of varying degrees

priving the cod of its natural habitat very

and fewer of them, so when you intend

of salinity. However, in order to devel-

quickly ends in its death. Additionally,

to eat the fish from Hel Pennisula after

op properly, the cod roe needs water

cod are sensitive to sudden changes in

your next dive, make sure that it comes

of higher salinity. For this reason, this

pressure. Pulling it to the surface with

from a legal and reliable source.

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

63

planet earth

Frigatebirds pirates of the skies Text and photos wojciech jarosz The white head is a characteristic feature of young birds

nature to the behavior of frigate birds. To close the topic of

When you hear the word “frigate", we usually think of a ship. One thinks of a classic sailing ship, another of a packed with electronics,

frigates-ships, it must first be mentioned that a type of frigate sails has developed over the centuries (our SV Dar Pomorza and SV Dar Młodzieży proudly use such sails, although the former basically does not use its masts and yards to erect

modern missile frigate. After reading this

sails and sail towards the setting sun, but still we can admire

article, let it also be an image of a unique

it as a museum at the waterfront at Kościuszko Square in

bird, the name of which directly refers to the beautiful, fast and maneuverable sailing ships that used to patrol the seas and oceans.

Gdynia, Poland, whenever we feel like it). Secondly, some of today's frigates are used to... fight piracy. The history has come full circle, and it even seems to be giggling quietly.

Returning to the heroes of this article and their relationship with pirates. Well, these birds obtain a significant part of

W

64

their food by taking it from other, smaller birds, e.g. their rel-

hen a French naturalist in the second half of the 17th

atives – gannets. This is a manifestation of kleptoparasitism,

century called birds "frigates", he was certainly refer-

which I already described as a phenomenon in the article on

ring to the nautical qualities of the then ships of this type.

skuas (Perfect Diver No. 1). Frigatebirds are truly intrusive

In those days, these agile sailing ships were eagerly used by

in inducing their victims to donate their own food (or the

pirates to carry out their evil activities, activities similar in

meal they carry to their chicks) by poking and grabbing their

planet earth

As soon as there is an opportunity for a free meal, frigates willingly use

feathers with their long beaks, far from being delicate. This is

little contact with water as possible. Instead, they fly over

not the only way frigatebirds get food. With the same beaks

the water, and how they fly!

they use to torment other birds, they very effectively catch

When Charles Darwin first saw the frigatebirds, he called

everything that can be eaten from the surface of the ocean,

them "ocean condors". Indeed, their wings are enormous,

i.e. flying fish, squid, cuttlefish, sometimes young turtles and

and the wingspan to body weight ratio is the largest among

a whole lot of other small sea animals. They like to take

all their close and distant bird cousins! What's more, like

the opportunity during the hunt of dolphins that scare fish

condors, they make great use of thermics and rising cur-

that run to the surface, where the frigatebirds can easily

rents, thanks to which they rise very quickly (5 m/s) to sig-

catch them – catch the fish, of course, not dolphins. They

nificant heights (4000 m). From such a height they glide tens

are also very eager to use the waste thrown from fishing

of kilometers without moving their wings! The distances

boats, and even steal fish from unattended decks of seafood

traveled by frigatebirds are astonishing – for them it is not

fishing cutters. However, frigatebirds do not have a habit

a problem to cover 400 km a day. They can spend several

of squatting on the surface of the water, much less diving.

dozen days in the air, and the record recorded in one of the

The feathers of the frigatebirds are not waterproof (these

studies was over two months without contact with land. No

birds lack efficient uropygial glands) and after soaking wet

rest! How is this possible? Scientists still do not know how

these "wet hens" are too heavy to take to the air. On the

frigatebirds sleep or whether they sleep at all. There are

other hand, landing on the water and swimming would not

several theories that point to the possibility of brief inter-

be helped by a frigatebird's small feet, whose digits are as

ruptions in the full brain activity of these birds, but there are

a matter of fact equipped with a interdigital webbing (the

also suggestions that frigates have evolutionarily managed

size does matter in this case). Thus, paradoxically, although

to eliminate the need for sleep. And have done it without

frigatebirds are considered sea birds, they try to have as

coffee or other "boosters".

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

65

Big wings, indented tail and long beak - that's how we recognize frigates

by the female from material provided by the male, perhaps

Where can we meet these born flyers?

fearing that if she does not do it herself, the apartment will

Of course, over the oceans, adjacent to tropical

not be finished in accordance with the project. The next

islands, and on coastal cliffs and mainland cliffs, where they can also colonize.

step is to lay one egg, from which the young hatch after 40–50 days. Interestingly, it can be at very different times of the year. Frigatebirds occur in places where summer usually lasts all year round, and therefore there is no common mating season for all pairs. Frigatebirds are very protective

66

Frigatebirds need to come ashore when they want to re-

of their young and take care of them for the longest time

produce. They nest most often on oceanic islands in trees or

of all birds (another record!). The entire reproductive cy-

shrubs. They form couples, and it is the female who chooses

cle in frigatebirds lasts about 400 days, which means that

the male who tries to convince her by inflating a character-

the subsequent broods take place every second year. The

istic skin pouch with an intense red color, making sounds

young mature for a long time and do not start breeding until

quite strange for a bird. The throat pouch may resemble

several years later. In the meantime, they learn the pro-

a blown sail, which some will see as another possible rea-

fession of a sea pirate, for example by simulating catching

son for naming the frigatebirds. After the breeding season,

a fish dropped by another bird, using sticks for this purpose.

the bag reduces its size, but the red skin fold is visible and

They suck the ability to fly and use thermal columns with

allows to distinguish the male from the female, although

their mother's milk, although of course they do not suck

these, depending on the species, may also have slightly dif-

anything, as they are obviously not mammals. The young

ferent plumage in some parts of the body (similar to young

birds observed by scientists, who had had no chance to

animals). Once selected, a pair of frigates remains true to

acquire such competences before, rose to great heights as

each other, but only in this specific season. The nest is built

effectively as their parents.

planet earth

In many places, frigates have learned that fishermen returning from catching fish are an occasion to eat

Where can we meet these born flyers? Of course, over the oceans, adjacent to tropical islands, and on coastal

Island frigatebird (F. andrewsii), which nests endemically on Christmas Island.

cliffs and mainland cliffs, where they can also colonize.

The next time you visit tropical islands, look out for those

Depending on the species, and there are nominally five of

tireless, black-winged pirates. Unforgettable impressions

them, frigatebirds can be found in all oceans of the globe,

guaranteed!

as long as it is not too cold there. The magnificent frigate (Fregata magnificens), as the name suggests, the largest representative of the genus, lives on the islands and shores of the Western Atlantic and Eastern Pacific. It can also be admired in the Cape Verde Islands off the coast of Africa, and in the Galapagos. The lesser frigatebird (F. ariel) and the great frigatebird (F. minor) are also found in many places, including the South Antlantic, Eastern and Central Pacific and Indian Oceans. The remaining two species are definitely less numerous and, unlike the three already mentioned, are considered to be threatened with extinction.

The Ascension frigatebird (F. aquila) breeds on Boatswain Bird Island, a small islet next to Ascension Island (the name is associated with other wonderful birds, phaetons – their English name is Boatswain bird). There is also a Christmas

Getting food in the air and dealing with it in flight is daily bread for frigates perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

67

r oo k i e ' s e y e

How to swim in ABC equipment Text margita Ślizowska

Photos wiktor zdrojewski

We have all the elements of the equipment matched. The snorkel is attached to the right side of the mask, and the reflective cap at its end is bent so that as little water as possible flows into the snorkel. The mask is tight, because we made sure that the hair and hood are well arranged. We insert the snorkel, seal it with our lips and exhale.

W

e lie face down in the water, make sure the snorkel is above the surface and… we can swim  But… before

we start, we should be aware of a few things. We are in the water, so there is almost always a certain amount of water in the snorkel. Therefore, a good practice is the following habit: after putting a snorkel into your mouth, first exhale to get rid of any water in the snorkel. Do exactly the same after emerging from the water, if you dived under its surface. After exhaling, carefully take the first breath in and make sure you have removed all water from the snorkel.

If not – exhale again. In general, it is worth breathing carefully through the snorkel, because water can appear in it at any time.

68

rookie ' s eye

While swimming, stretch your hands in front of you.

ity of piercing the coatings and sudden loss of the buoyancy

Why? That they would protect your head while you are busy

source, falling asleep and swimming miles away, sudden

observing the underwater world. From time to time look

falling into the water and thermal shock are just some of the

above the surface to correct, for example, the direction of

dangers lurking for even those swimming perfectly...

swimming and to make sure that there is no threat. Make slow, measured movements with your legs armed with fins.

Try not to pull the entire fin above the water surface. Your legs should be straight at your knees, and we move from the hip. Try to avoid the so-called a bicycle (i.e. bending the knees and working with the legs, as when riding a bicycle).

Slow, steady movements with breaks in between cycles will keep fatigue under control, help avoid cramps and ensure stability in the water.

If you can swim, but are not a very good swimmer – I strongly recommend additional security measures that indirectly protect you from drowning. They protect, but do not entitle us to swim too far from the shore or to snorkel without attendance. A wetsuit which has a certain buoyancy thanks to air bubbles, various types of buoys (although here you should take into account the possibility of piercing the source of buoyancy) or boards and foam pool noodles allowing for a short rest on the surface. For poor swimmers, the most effective protection is a well-fitting life-jacket. However, the popular floating mattresses on which we like to lie and sunbathe in the water are extremely dangerous. The possibil-

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

69

IMMERSION WITH BREATH HOLDING

advertisement

are triggered in us during submerging under water. Thanks

An additional attraction in snorkeling (for skilled swim-

to that knowledge, we will understand why, without proper

mers and divers) is the possibility of shallow immersion un-

training and preparation,the immersion should not be deep-

der the water. The first thing we do under water is to equalize

er than just a few meters. One of the most serious risks is

the pressure in the ears. You have to do it very gently, briefly,

blackout, which is a sudden loss of consciousness without

and quite often (as you dive in) to prevent heavy pressure on

any warning. That is why we always snorkel with an atten-

the eardrums. And certainly you must not allow any pain. The

dant. We dive in water only if we have a partner next to us

pressure difference under water is much greater than on the

who is as well trained as we are and is able to provide first

surface, so you should start equalizing the pressure in the

aid in the event of a danger. Dives when practicing snorkeling

ears immediately after immersion. The simplest method is

should be shallow and short. They should not come close

the Valsalwa maneuvre: hold your nose and blow air slightly

to our limits. And once again, it is very important to have

into the clogged nose. You should feel a slight "pop" in your

rescue skills. Ability to bring an unconscious person from

ears. When you feel pressure in your ears again as you go

under water, to tow them, and knowledge of the resusci-

deeper, repeat this action. As you ascend, the pressure is

tation procedure – in a word a complete rescue action. It is

self-equalizing (provided you are healthy). Another important

truly an invaluable skill. Thanks to it, we can save someone's

topic is the awareness of the physiological processes that

health or life.

k n ow l e dg e

Peter Maas

The terrible hours The Greatest Submarine Rescue in History Harper Perennial Paperback, 288 pages, March 6th 2001

Thanks to the widespread access to the Internet and tele-

From the book you can learn not only the story of this ex-

vision, the tragic story of the Kursk submarine was followed

traordinary man, but also about the technical details of the

all over the world. However, in 1939, when the USS Squalus

dives performed at that time. Who would have thought that

sank, it was not possible to follow the rescue operation on

trimix was already being used back then! The novel is so in-

television. Only the 1999 the book by Peter Maas, "The Ter-

tense that it only took me a few hours to read it. I definitely

rible Hours", brought it closer to the world. A story about

recommend it to all divers, not only military and subma-

a man who carried out the greatest underwater rescue op-

rines enthusiasts.

eration (The Terrible hours. The man behind the greatest

Mateusz Popek

submarine rescue in history).

Peter Maas, who died in 2001, was a New York journalist whose novels based on true events focused primarily on the New York Mafia. However, thanks to the fact that he became interested in the story of the sinking of an American warship, we can follow this story in the pages of his book.

The novel is very strictly based on facts and tells the story of the career of Charles "Swede" Momsen. He was an officer in the US Navy, as well as an inventor and visionary. Many of the devices he designed have been used so far in the rescue of sunken submarines. In fact, before Momsen, the sinking of a submarine was tantamount to the death of her crew.

The inventions of this man gave the sailors hope.

The highlight of the novel is the rescue operation of the sunken submarine USS Squalus. It was during this action that Charles Momsen was able to demonstrate the effectiveness of his rescue techniques.

Peter Maas tells the story very fluently. The whole plot keeps you in suspense, while remaining true to the facts. r e v i e w

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

71

tips & curiosities ACADEMY

divinig setups Part 4

special edition: Technical training for divers preparing for emergency response

Text Wojciech A. Filip

There are two ways to ensure that using a modular system will be even more enjoyable: `` getting it well adjusted to your body and needs, `` getting to know the "perks".

Photo Ash Embi

I

72

Perks are the topic of today's article about diving setups,

f you get your hands on the last three editions of Perfect

which will also be the last part in the series.

Diver, you can follow the step-by-step guide on how to

We'll be discussing the following topics:

achieve a good fit and adjustment of your modular system.

•

d-ring locations

What's still left are the perks, which may prove to be indis-

•

techniques for clipping and unclipping bolt snaps

pensable once you get to know them better.

•

putting a modular system on and removing it.

tips & curiosities

ACADEMY

Think of d-rings as you would of pockets – they allow you

bulky, so don't clip anything else into that d-ring to facilitate

to attach all of the gear that you want to take diving with

any cylinder operations you will need to perform.

you to your rig Is there anyone who never searched for their

Left hip d-ring: this is where the gauge goes, along with

home keys that were safe in one of their trouser pockets,

the reel or spool and the SMB (unless you've put all of

but just which one was it ? Too many pockets means a lot

that into your suit pocket). In technical diving, there's a lot

of opportunities for small items to get lost in them. In a per-

more uses for this d-ring, which include clipping the lower

fect world we would not be overdoing it on the pockets and

stage cylinder bolt snaps, as well as the so-called lanyard

even better, we'd always place the same items in the same

where additional stage cylinders beyond the second one

pockets.

are attached.

Let's try to approach our d-rings in the same way. I will de-

Front crotch strap d-ring: this one is used to attach the

scribe how to set-up and use a minimal number of d-rings

scooter (you don't have to hold on to it for your life when

to satisfy each and every diver.

diving, this cool equipment will be pulling you attached to

We're going to use a total of five. That's how many advanced

a well-adjusted harness) or as a temporary d-ring to attach

cave and wreck divers are using.

something just for a moment, e.g. when sorting out your gear still on the surface.

Rear crotch strap d-ring: there are only two functions for this one, both used in advanced dives with scooters. It's used for hauling a back-up scooter or for emergency procedures involving the use of a scooter (follow Perfect Diver to learn useful equipment tips and techniques used in advanced diving).

Photo Łukasz Oganowski

The location and functions of the five d-rings, as presented here, is a proven and tested approach in technical diving. Feel free to include a smaller or higher number of d-rings and use them as you see fit.

Right chest d-ring: this is where your main regulator goes (if Photo Bartłomiej Trzciński

you're using a long hose), your back-up light, main light and everything else that you'll be using during your dive, except for heavy, bulky gear, such as e.g. the reel. When jumping

If you're a recreational diver, start early on your good

into the water, such bulky items may give you an unpleasant

habits. Try using your d-rings the same way the pros

surprise, hitting your mask or regulator.

do when diving inside wrecks. Getting the hang of

Left chest d-ring: this is where the back-up light and stage

it now means that you won't have to change your

cylinders (stabilized using a second bolt snap, clipped into

habits when you progress on to wreck diving 

the left hip d-ring) are attached. These items are heavy and

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

73

ACADEMY

Don't clip bulky equipment into your chest d-rings,

The key consideration when clipping/unclipping

as they may shift when jumping into the watter,

something from a d-ring is the first movement

hitting your mask or regulator.

your hand makes: pulling your elbow as far back as possible.

D-ring locations Have you ever been looking for your jeans pocket? Never

Hip:

happened, I'm sure! Pocket distribution ensures that your

•

hands go in almost automatically. This is exactly how your

Rest your hands on your hips and clench your left fist slowly – this is where your hip d-ring should go.

d-rings should be arranged. You can't spend too much time arranging this. You'll see how much more comfortable your dives will become when each and every time you can reach for your gear attached to one of the d-rings without having to look for its exact location.

We'll arrange the d-rings in two stages – first starting out of the water, when adjusting your harness, and then we'll fine-tune the rig when diving, using your buddy to help you.

Arranging d-rings Chest: •

•

Extend your arms to the sides, pull your elbows far back

Front crotch strap d-ring:

(this is a very important element of working on your

•

This one is usually sown in place at the factory, so no

d-rings).

need to adjust it. If that is however not the case, place it

Now flex your elbows, at the same time clenching your

as high up on the crotch strap as possible.

fists and pointing your thumbs towards your chest.

•

When you raise your thumbs, they should hit the d-rings.

Rear crotch strap d-ring: •

Stand on your left foot and raise your right knee high.

Reach with your right hand above your butt – did you hit the d-ring?

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tips & curiosities

ACADEMY

Once you're all geared up, your harness and d-rings may shift slightly, so that is why the next stage, fine-tuning, must be done under water.

Descend, preferably onto a stable platform Try to "clip" a bolt snap into each of your d-rings. Do it slowly, looking forward all the time at a reference point or your depth gauge. Don't aim the bolt snap at the d-ring but rather do a calm movement with the hand holding the open bolt snap.

At this time your buddy will watch closely to locate where exactly does your bolt snap end up. They may use a small camera or just watch very carefully. They should write their observations down in a waterproof notebook, slate or record the exercise on video.

Each d-ring should be located where you'll intuitively be looking for it with your bolt snap – only than can you be sure to hit the jackpot every time. So we shouldn't be looking for d-ring to clip the bolt snap. Instead we'll be using our bolt snap to show where the d-ring should be to make sure it's in the most natural position for our body.

After ascending to the surface, adjust all d-rings as per your buddy's comments and during your next dive verify your

Caution!

new setup. If everything is working smoothly, do one final

Before you start arranging your d-rings, check out the fragment

test: without looking at your d-rings, clip a snap bolt into

on selecting the proper bolt snaps, which is available...below 

each of them – repeat ten times for each one.

Iron out any imperfections in the arrangement of your

Bolt snaps for attaching all pieces of

d-rings that may still be there.

equipment to your rig Bolt snaps come in two variants: single-ended with a gate on one side (sometimes referred to as "swivel bolts snaps" 

Precise arrangement of your d-rings is a very import-

due to their rotating eyelet) and double-ended with gates

ant element of the equipment adjustment process.

on both ends, referred to as double-enders.

It's enough for your d-ring to be just a few millimeters too high or too low and you'll miss it every time.

Select a responsible buddy to assist you with this and then do the same for them.

You'll find it comfortable to attach swivel bolt snaps permanently to various diving gear, which will allow you to comfortably clip and unclip your gear every time. Some equipment should allow for separating the entire bolt snap when in use, e.g. the spool or reel, so double-enders are used here.

Page images Bartłomiej Trzciński

75

ACADEMY

How to select the proper bolt snap size

Useful takeaway!

It's crucial to be able to operate each of your bolt snaps in

When using dry gloves, open bolt snaps with the side of your

thick gloves that you'll be using on your dives – no matter

thumb – this way you won't block the gate with the loose

whether those are wet gloves or drysuit gloves.

part of your glove.

Take your gloves with you shopping – if you're taking your drysuit gloves, don't forget to take your liners too. Wear your gloves at the store and get two bolt snaps of each size ready.

Grab the two bolts snaps of the same size, one in each hand, and try to clip them together. Some will be too small, some too large. Select those that you like most, which will be the easiest for you to clip and unclip.

Putting on your modular rig There are many ways to select bolt snaps. When diving in warm,

•

20-degree water, you won't need gloves, so you'll be able to operate even smaller bolt snaps comfortably.

assist you).

•

Consider whether it will be reasonable for you to buy bolt snaps of various sizes. In my opinion, if you select just one size that is

Place the rig firmly in front of you (use your buddy to Attach the drysuit hose, putting it under your left shoulder strap.

•

optimal for you and attach such bolt snaps to all your gear, every

Turn right and put the left shoulder strap onto your body (pay attention to the drysuit outlet valve).

time when you want to unclip something, your hand will find "the same" familiar bolt snap, which is more comfortable than getting used to various sizes of bolt snaps.

How to operate the bolt snap with just one hand?

Make use of the experience of your instructors or buddies, who will show you various techniques and just select whichever works best for you.

Note that a bolt snap is much easier to clip and unclip when the gate is located away from the diver and not towards your body.

•

Move your hips and shoulders as far to the left as possible.

•

Move your right hand back along your hip and slide it underneath the right shoulder strap.

•

Use the techniques you learned in the previous issue of Perfect Diver to easily attach your crotch strap and hip strap.

76

tips & curiosities

ACADEMY

Removing your modular rig

•

•

Clip your main regulator into the right d-ring.

•

Remove the long hose and back-up regulator from your

•

Disconnect the drysuit hose.

•

Undo the waist strap and remove the crotch strap.

•

Remove the right shoulder strap, using a double-ender,

Hold the left shoulder strap along with the inflator with your right hand and raise slightly

neck (if that's your setup)

•

Turning to the left, free your left hand from the shoulder strap (pay attention to the drysuit outlet valve).

back-up light or the main regulator clipped into the right d-ring to help you.

Use the following to assist you when removing your rig •

double-ender

•

back-up light

•

main regulator attached to the d-ring

special edition Emergency response preparation training (putting on/removing your rig in the water)

1. Putting your rig on and removing it without assistance •

pling over) •

so that all you need to get into the water are your

Place the rig firmly on a surface (secure it against topRepeat the procedure for putting on and removing

mask and fins.

2. Practice in the water •

your rig twenty times, making sure that your move•

if possible, do the first set without your gloves

comfortable clothing

•

do the next sets with your full gear

Put on your gloves and do another 20

•

Remove your gloves and wear your full diving suits

•

(wear your fins for safety)

ments are slow and precise – do this while wearing •

•

practice the above exercises while chest-deep in water

Training with an advanced partner

– now do another 20

•

Hone your rig wearing and removing skills in a team

Add gloves on top of that and do no less than 20 rep-

•

When you no longer have any trouble with the above

etitions

exercises, move to deeper water (where you can't

Measure the time you need to both put your rig on

reach the bottom)

and remove it (always put your rig on to the very end, Page images Bartłomiej Trzciński

perfectdiver No. 4(10)/2020

77

ACADEMY

Technical note for training without bottom

All went well?

contact

Plan your next training session at a place where you can't

Before removing your hand from the right shoulder strap, re-

reach the bottom.

lease some gas from your wing and then lean to the right. Once

Partner lies relaxed on the water surface

your hand is free from the harness, reach for the inflator and

•

Remove your buddy's rig with highly precise move-

inflate your rig, turning to the left at the same time. Your rig will

ments, all the time paying attention to where their face

just "remove itself" 

is – to make it clear, it should be above the water (make sure that the rig has positive buoyancy before you re-

•

Wear and remove your rigs in turns – one person does the exercise while the other gives them advice/supports

move it completely) •

Take turns with this exercise

them •

Once you have no problems with wearing and removing

CAUTION!

your rigs on your own, move over to the next stage, back

Your emergency response preparation training only looks simple.

in chest-deep water:

Appearances might be deceiving, as this is hard, exhausting work.

Partner lies relaxed on the water surface

Professional emergency responders spend a lot of time doing this.

Slowly, step-by-step, remove your partner's equipment

Make sure that you are in good physical shape and adjust

– during this time your partner will be guiding you

the number of repetitions in your sets not to deteriorate your

through the individual stages, but does not assist you

technique (the proposed 20 repetitions are usual for profes-

•

Help your partner put his rig back on and change roles

sionals' training).

•

Train until you have this important skill fully covered

Always work in a team when training in the water. Stop your

•

training when you feel fatigue.

Each training done with a high number of repetitions benefits you in critical situations.

Wearing and removing your rig are some of the basic emergency response techniques. In many cases these are only trained in your basic course and perhaps later during your Rescue course. Getting ready for critical situations first in a comfortable setting is a good idea.

Train these techniques whenever you have the chance to be confident about your abilities.

Ask your instructor to help you extend your training.

`` Do you want to learn how to clip bolt snaps when diving in very low temperatures? Would you like an individual fit for the d-rings in your harness? `` Want to adjust your emergency response training to the types of dives you're doing? `` A bonus for our Perfect Diver readers: arrange your free Tecline Academy seminar – increase the comfort and safety of your dives!

WAF Photo Krzysztof Niecko

78

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