Fall 2007

DECEMBER 2007 | ISSUE 1

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Penn Appétit

Letter From The Editor Hi Readers!

I am both thrilled and relieved to present to you the first issue of PENN APPÉTIT, the new food magazine on Penn’s campus!

The idea for this magazine started last semester when I took Food for Thought, a writing seminar with Professor Tom Devaney here at Penn. During that class, I started doing things I wouldn’t normally do: being happy to do schoolwork, eating egg tarts from Chinatown provided by a classmate, and taking 45 minute trips to Whole Foods to buy multiple $3 chocolate bars. Basically, Tom made me crazy. And he got my tummy rumbling until I was hungry for a food magazine at Penn.

Next, JESSICA LOWENTHAL happened. Jessica is the Director of the Kelly Writers House. When I first talked to her about the magazine, she realized how difficult it would be to do this, but she believed in me and everyone else and the concept of the magazine. That’s the emotional side. On the more practical (financial) side, Jessica agreed to have the Writers House cover the costs of more than the first issue. In addition, Jessica has been a great resource for all of my (several hundred) questions and she reassured me when I was worried (all the time). So, on behalf of all the staff and myself, I’d like to thank Jessica Lowenthal for her tremendous assistance and support for Penn Appétit.

There are several people and institutions that have assisted us in some way, in addition to those I mentioned before: the Kelly Writers House, for its financial support, computers, and meeting space; my family, for inspiring in me a love of food and eating once I got over my picky phase; my friends and roommates, for listening to me and letting me bounce ideas off of them; the Penn Registrar, for allowing me to enroll in Tom Devaney’s class; and MY STAFF, who has worked so hard and taught me so much about how to do this whole magazine thing.

So here it is. And it’s scrumptious! If you are looking for a personal take on the culinary world, check out Marianne O’Brien’s narrative about the interplay of American and Korean cuisines in her childhood. Want some advice for what to cook when you don’t really have a kitchen? You will like the dorm cooking recipes by Emily Selvin. And if you have a beating heart and a full or empty stomach, you’ll love the review of the only two Malaysian restaurants in Philadelphia, written

by Jamie Png. Although we don’t have a website right now, we have one in the works.

I’d like to send a special thank you to Calley Levine who is designing the website. It will have more info about Penn Appétit and the people behind it, as well as color photos and more recipes. A link will be on the Kelly Writers House webpage once the site is up. We are working on starting a blog in connection with the magazine, so keep your eyes open for that.

I’ll take this opportunity to shamelessly plug another website. My sister Mia and her boyfriend Jonathan Hall have recently started a food blog, mostly about cooking and with lots and lots of recipes. The website is: www.redramekin.com. I wouldn’t tell you about it, and Mia wouldn’t be a part of it, if it wasn’t great—so take a look after you finish reading Penn Appétit.

Thanks, and enjoy this issue!

Emma Morgenstern Editor-in-Chief

Magazine Staff Editor-in-Chief Emma Morgenstern SAC Representative Edith Chao Treasurer Arielle Salomon Layout/Design Editor Lucy Medrich Story Editors

Business Staff

Michael Chien Alex Levy Alex Marcus Emily Selvin Lee Vandivier

Sofia Andrianakou Donna Chan Edith Chao Clint Cohen Vishaal Pawani Arielle Salomon Devan Walia

General Editing Staff Bell Athayu Alex Leavy Jamie Png Greg Rollman Staff Writers Michael Chien Danielle Koo Marianne O’Brien Jamie Png Emily Selvin Greg Wall

Layout/Design Staff Edith Chao Marianne O’Brien Lauren Rubinfeld Alison Wand Rachel Weisel Photography Staff Danielle Koo Jamie Png Daniel Schwartz

Copy Editors Webmaster Calley Levine Cover Photo Daniel Schwartz Bell Athayu Logo Design Lauren Rubinfeld Marianne O’Brien The mission of Penn Appetit is to provide a highquality forum for all types of food writing, including but not limited to: food features, opinions about political food issues, restaurant reviews, recipes, food poetry, creative food writing, and food narrative.

The next issue of Penn Appetit is scheduled to come out in March 2008. If you are interested in becoming a part of the magazine-as a writer, editor, photographer, layout staffer, or business staffer-please email pennappetit@gmail.com. At this email address, we are also accepting standalone submissions, letters to the editor, and any food and recipe questions you may have.

If you are interested in advertising and want more info, please email pennappetit.business@gmail.com.

Penn Appétit

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Growing Up with Kimchi

One woman’s struggle with her cultural and culinary heritage

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STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARIANNE O’BRIEN

he smell of a Korean household is the bland American palate. Even sitting at unmistakable. First, upon enter- a table with chairs was odd; all my meals ing, there is the garlic-infused scent that at home were eaten off of a low-level cofwafts from the kitchen. And then there fee table while sitting on the is the harsh smell of fermented cabbage. floor. Going over to Growing up, it was embarrassing to see friends’ houses for my friends cringe at the smell when they dinner, I was came over. I would roll my eyes in annoy- bewildered ance every time my mom brought home by the varianother massive jar of kimchi, the source ous prepaof the overpowering smell. rations for Kimchi is vegetables fermented in a c h i c k e n brine of ginger, garlic and chili pepper, and the prepared in a variety of fashions depend- ever-presing on family recipes. It’s considered one ent side of the healthiest foods in the world and salad.

Korebelieved to retard cancer growth and aid ans eat a variety digestion. Some, my mom included, credit of side dishes with it with the lower incidence of SARS in Ko- each meal—an assortment rea than in other Asian countries. Many of pickled vegetables, kimchi, glazed poforeigners cannot stand its potent smell tatoes, fried zucchini, soups, and boiled and tangy taste but Koreans cannot get peanuts. Imagine my surprise at finding enough. So essential is kimchi to the Ko- one unassuming pile of prepackaged letrean diet that they even have specialized tuce drowned in Caesar dressing. refrigerators just for storing it and when I was horrified when I first entered an taking pictures, Koreans will say “kimchi” American school. After my first day, I came instead of “cheese.” home in tears of frustration and made I didn’t grow up on casseroles or the powerful statement that undoubtmacaroni. edly broke my My mother mother’s heart, forced meat, “I hate being rice, kimchi half Korean!” and dried Going to a seaweed on small Episcome instead. pal school, my My father, halfling status though born made me the and raised in foreign kid; Philadelphia, there wasn’t a appreciated single full Asian the exotic in my class of and unfamil32. Don’t even TOP: A bowl of the notorious kimchi. iar. He would BOTTOM: Grilling bulgogi at your table. get me started scarf down on how many my mother’s mandu (Korean dumplings) times I was asked if I was adopted owing and attempt to say Mas Iss-neun in his bat- to my screamingly Irish last name. This tered Korean. Yet my culinary upbringing was a constant source of frustration. I was predominantly Asian. sought, as every kid does, to fit in with my It was hard for me then to relate to friends. Having a house reeking of garlic

and a mother who eats shriveled spicy sardines didn’t help any.

A cuisine I once ate with such relish was now a source of embarrassment. My mom would send me to school every day with a feast of Korean food in an elaborate bento box set.

Instead of showcasing my meal, I returned home with my tupperware fully packed. Thereafter, every day I insisted on bologna sandwiches with mayonnaise.

“I want a Capri Sun too,” I’d demand, favoring the processed juice over the Korean yogurt drinks I once adored. Slowly I weaned myself off the Korean diet and instead munched on the American delicacies of Hot Cheetos and Fruit by the Foot for lunch.

All the while my mother would insist I had a Korean stomach. Whenever we went to Korean restaurants, she would smirk at how well I could handle the spiciness of Korean cuisine. While she would wash her kimchi in water to subdue its fiery taste, I would eat spoonfuls of it without even breaking a sweat. But of course I would deny I enjoyed it. “I smell awful now,” I’d say afterwards. Thus my experience with food growing up was marked by burritos, pizza, and pasta.

My love of fine food did not fully develop again until I began watching the Food Network towards the end of high school. Suddenly I found myself in love with preparing meals. I delved into the food section of the LA Times and delightKIMCHI Continued on Page 10

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Penn Appétit

REVIEWS

A positive outlook on Penn Dining, and a homesick Singaporean compares Philly’s two Malaysian restaurants

Go to Hill for a Little Slice of Heaven

BY MICHAEL CHIEN

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PHOTOS BY DANIELLE KOO

pinach linguini with clams in gar- stir-fry with sweet citrus sauce. The Dining’s Executive Chef, added: “We lic sauce. Salmon roasted in white dish was colorful, with white rice on always think about where we’re taking wine. These entrées sound like they the bottom, freshly-sliced chicken in our menus to please the audience that could be from the menu of some fancy the middle, and a colorful sauce on we are serving.” The bottom line is Center City restaurant. top that included pieces of red and that students have a large role to play So I couldn’t wait to have a taste green pepper and tiny bits of orange. in what we see at the dining halls, and of the spinach linguini. I watched the The range of textures in this dish is offering feedback to the chefs is often steam from the also worth notic- just an email away. freshly-made sauce ing: the crunchy After eating at Hill a few times, I curl up into the peppers, soft rice, was particularly curious about what air, but I couldn’t and smooth sauce. happens behind the scenes. McDonald watch for long—­I The chicken itself revealed that the “day typically starts at had to have a was a bit tough, but 6:00A.M.,” merely a few hours after most taste. I wasn’t the sauce was deli- Penn students go to sleep. “That’s when disappointed afciously sweet with a we get most of our deliveries and when ter my first bite. tangy orange taste our workers come in to begin preparing The clams were that I enjoyed. for breakfast and lunch.” Lunch usually complemented If whatever takes three to four hours to cook and by the thick, butis being offered many items are prepared ahead of time. tery alfredo sauce, Center Stage at As for who writes the recipes, I was Hill Dining employee serves student at the though the garlic Center Stage Performance station.

Hill doesn’t suit surprised to learn that often the dining was a tad too salty your tastes, there hall employees suggest improvements for my tastes. The linguini was cooked is always an array of other options to and even invent their own creations. to just the right stiffness, and added to choose from. There is a made-to-order “They have a good amount of freedom the palette of tastes and textures. All grill, a vegetarian station, a home sta- in coming up with their own ideas,” Mcin all, it was a very enjoyable meal. tion, a salad bar, and a dessert section Donald explained.

You must be wondering where a that includes Columbo frozen yogurt.

Although Hill’s menu is both classy typical Penn student of average means Hill endeavors to make all types of and enticing, I am not claiming that Hill can dine as finely as this. These en- cuisine, from Dining Hall is trées can be found at none other than Chinese to Italon the same levour very own Hill Dining Hall. ian, Thai, Medel as a fine CenIn fact, the entrées that were men- iterranean, and ter City restautioned earlier are not just to be en- even just good rant. But as far joyed for their taste; they are a sight to old-fashioned as campus dinbehold as well. When you go up to get American (for ing goes, Hill an order of the linguini (or a different fans of the is top-of-the entrée on another night) at the Center hamburger and line. The variStage Performance Station, you see the hot dog). Ac- Students have a wide variety of options at the salad bar ety of offerings chef prepare your food right in front cording to John in Hill Dining Hall. as well as the of your eyes. Sure, this means that Cipollini, General Manager of Penn general quality of the food at Hill puts you have to wait a bit longer than you Dining, this trend is largely the result it a notch above the rest of Penn’s dining would for the other entrées, but it is of student input. “We do a dining style halls. While I wouldn’t recommend eatdefinitely worth it. survey every fall and spring, and we ing there every day, an occasional trip to The entrée offered at Center Stage usually get a few thousand responses,” Hill for Seafood Tuesdays or Saturday changes daily. Every Tuesday night he said. “We look at different trends. brunch is not to be missed. there is some type of seafood dish, as For instance, many people are looking Michael Chien is a freshman in Enwas the case when I dropped by for the for more ethnic foods.” So Penn Din- gineering. His email is mchien@seas. linguini. Another night, I got chicken ing delivered. Tia McDonald, Penn upenn.edu.

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Hungering for Home: A Singaporean Takes on Two Malaysian Hotspots pHoToS And STory by jAMie png

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cold night in early fall. My friend Peter and I agreed that the only way to address the chill in the air was with a belly full of comfort food—our kind of comfort food.

We were both born in Singapore and raised on the cuisine of the Malay Archipelago, a vibrant hybrid of Indian, Malay, and Chinese (the three main ethnic groups of the region). On menus at Singaporean and Malaysian restaurants, coconut rice, spicy curries, and tangy clear soups rub shoulders with wok-tossed noodles, beef satay, and regional vegetables fried with chillis and shrimp paste. Meals are rounded out with desserts of boiled, sweetened soups, or glutinous rice confections topped with rich brown palm-sugar syrup and evaporated milk. Perfect cold weather food—despite having originated in a more humid, tropical corner of the world.

So, we headed off to Chinatown, where Philly’s only dedicated Malaysian restaurants are located—all two of them.

“There’s Penang on 10th and Cherry, and Banana Leaf on 10th and Arch,” Pete said. I admitted that, oddly enough, I hadn’t been to either. (Probably because I’ve spent the better part of my US sojourn morbidly fascinated by the likes of Cheese Whiz and other American culinary atrocities.)

He suggested I try Penang first, as it is the slightly older and more famous of the two.

The restaurant’s dining room was decorated in a contemporary “pan-Asian” style, dominated by bronzy earth tones.

The menu was a mixture of family-style entrées and, most importantly for us, Malaysian hawker specialties. These are onedish meals and cheaper than most other entrées on the menu. They are not necessarily meant to be shareable but certainly are. I ordered the char kway teow—flat

rice noodles with calamari, prawns, eggs chopped cucumber, and a sliced hardand bean sprouts wok-fried in a spicy boiled egg. He reported a similarly pedark soy sauce. When it arrived, looking destrian experience, an assessment with for all the world like a bowl of pad thai, which I concurred after sampling a few I was immediately suspicious. At the risk mouthfuls. The rice was crumbly and a of nit-picking, the noodles were not the little hard, the ikan bilis was bland and right width (forgiveable), and definitely overpowered by onions, and the achar not the right color (unforgiveable!). Let was boring, with none of its usual tartness me explain: kway teow is a variety of rice or kick. The chicken curry was fine: a little noodle that is wide and flat. These noodles fatty, and nothing to write home about. were disappointingAlong with ly narrow, and looked the bill, we were Banana Leaf more like the kind of presented with a 1009 Arch Street noodle you’d find in complimentar y 215-592-8288 pad thai. Outside of plate of orange 7 days a week, 11am - 1am Asia, I’m willing to slices; but even that overlook this—it’s and the good serPenang not always easy to vice weren’t enough 117 North 10th Street obtain the exact proto make up for our 215-413-2531 visions you need for singularly unsat7 days a week, 11:30am - 1am ethnic cooking. But isfying meal. Both the noodles were dishes were solid also a light brown, approximations sort of tan color— of what we’d find again, more like in Singapore or pad thai—when Malaysia, but we they were supposed agreed they were to be a rich, alnot the best exammost black brown. ples of the cuisine.

It’s from that dark A couple of color that much of days later, still the dish’s robust flacraving SingaTOP: Banana Leaf ’s ice kachang. vor derives. A light BOTTOM (left to right): Banana Leaf ’s nasi p o r e a n / Ma l ay color means that lemak and char kway teow. sian food and not less sauce (or the satisfied by our wrong kind of sauce) was used, resulting excursion to the lackluster Penang, we in a thinner flavor. The rest of the dish decided to give Banana Leaf a go. Stepwas no better: the two or three prawns I ping inside, we found the service cheerful managed to dredge up were scrawny and and the décor inadvertently kitschy, with overcooked, the wisps of fried egg were wall frescoes, hurricane lamps and faux unimpressive, the bean sprouts were limp wood fixtures that made us feel like we instead of crunchy, and the (albeit well- were dining in a bamboo glade. Banana cooked) calamari was chopped into mea- Leaf ’s menu is eerily similar to Penang’s, gerblink-and-you’ll-miss-’emsizedpieces. and contained all the usual suspects; in Pete ordered nasi lemak (steamed fact, save for Banana Leaf ’s slightly lower coconut rice with chicken curry), achar prices, the menus could have been iden(sweet and spicy pickled vegetables), sambal ikan bilis (mini anchovies fried MALAYSIAN CUISINE with onions in a sweetened chilli sauce), Continued on Page 10

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Penn Appétit

Q&A with Tom Block, Chocolatier at Naked Chocolate Café iNTerview ANd phoTogrAphs By jAmie pNg

Long-time confectioner Tom Block runs Naked Chocolate Café in Center City, Philly’s only European-style chocolate establishment. Open late and serving truffles, baked goods, and drinking chocolate, this spot has garnered a huge following since its 2006 opening. The following are excerpts from an afternoon chat with Tom Block: Jamie Png: Why did you pick the name Naked?

Tom Block: I wanted to come up with a name that was fun, kind of sophisticated but a little bit edgy, and mainly a name nobody would ever forget, and nobody forgets it! We could always fall back on the fact that we have nothing to hide. We’re naked with pure stuff.

Here’s something I’ve always been skeptical about. Do you believe chocolate actually does possess aphrodisiac qualities?

Well! Although even Madame de Pompadour and Madame du Barry back in the French courts [of Louis XV] claimed that it did, I think that while it may not have aphrodisiac qualities, the endorphins definitely [make you] feel good—there’s not a question about that. If you want to stretch that to be an aphrodisiac I wouldn’t stand in your way, but it definitely makes you feel good. I’m sure that’s why chocolate is so associated with Valentine’s Day. It’s not totally far-fetched. In the European royal courts of the 16, 17, even 1800s, a lot of the people, especially the women, had to have their chocolate everyday. They would drink it—it wasn’t

Pumpkin nudos, or pyramid-shaped brownies.

This is one of Tom Block’s specialty desserts.

solid chocolate back then. When I was trying to put together a business plan for this place, I said that my main customer demographic is the 20-40 year old female. And it is! I mean, we get everybody, but there’s always a preponderance of females. So I don’t think I was that far off.

How did you decide to become a chocolatier?

I have been in this business all of my adult life, believe it or not. I should have been teaching political science, but many many years ago when I was still in college, I opened a fudge stand at a state fair up in New York State. And it actually evolved from there. I guess I always had an entrepreneurial spirit, so I developed that into a business.

Then [I] kind of expanded the chocolate business. For the last thirty years I’ve been in the ice cream and chocolate business in New Jersey, mostly in Princeton and New Brunswick. I have ice cream stores over there.

Really this has always been my business of choice. Then we decided a couple of years ago, two and a half years ago, to [open Naked]. First of all just a little inspiration from being

A view of the dessert case at Naked Chocolate.

TOP: Chocolatier Tom Block in the Naked kitchen.

BOTTOM: The Naked Chocolate Cafe, located at 1317 Walnut Street.

in Europe, knowing that there was a real renaissance of artisanal chocolate makers, and a real heightened awareness of chocolate and of dark chocolate as being good for you...I just thought the time was right and this would be a good city to do it in.

Who was your best cooking teacher or your biggest culinary inspiration?

I’m almost completely self-taught with chocolates and with confections. It was very much me in the kitchen, initially, and then I had some real help, 35 years ago, from a couple of people in the chocolate industry, [who] were just very helpful in pushing me in the right direction. But the real inspiration was to want to open something. And then I just had to fill in my own blanks, because I didn’t go to chocolate school.

I didn’t do any of that. But the actual reason I ended up in the chocolates business was I opened up those fudge stands at the state fair. And that was kinda going to be it, and we were doing really well in the summertime...I was on a flight and the inflight magazine had an article about a guy named Tom Kron, and a place called Kron Chocolatier in New York City. He just wanted

Penn Appétit to open up a real high-end chocolate place in New York, and he was doing things with interesting molds...and I said, “This is really cool!” I went down and visited his shop, and I said “I’m going to do this!”

What was the best chocolate you’ve ever tasted?

Other than some of my own, there’s a little place in New York City, in Soho now, called Kee’s. [It’s just the owner] with two other ladies. It’s a very small place, they have a very limited menu of chocolate truffles, and they run out almost every day. It finally occurred to me why it was so delicious: it’s because they’re so fresh and she uses wonderful ingredients. She really knows how to combine these [different spices].

And I think she’s got the best chocolate I’ve had. It’s not cheap, I think it’s priced at $60-70 a pound.

What was the last chocolate you ate?

I try not to have too many desserts, but last night, as a matter of fact...it was actually a chocolate brownie that one of my sisters made, I had a little of that with coffee. I like chocolate, anything chocolate, but I’m trying to keep my girlish figure and I try not to have too much chocolate. It really doesn’t help me!

What’s your favorite chocolate comfort food?

I actually just like a piece of dark chocolate. I like it with nothing in it. A good piece of dark chocolate, naked! I don’t mean to be a snob, even a good piece of milk chocolate is okay. I just like plain chocolate.

TOM BLOCK Continued on Page 9

An assortment of Tom Block’s famous truffles.

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Drinking Chocolate: An Ancient indulgence By emmA morgeNsTerN | phoTogrAph By jAmie pNg

The drinking chocolate at Naked sweetened it a little bit but kept the spices,” Chocolate Café is one of the most deca- said Block. Lopez writes that the Spanish dent chocolates you can find in Phila- came up with what we now think of as delphia. It is a rich, hot drink made of the classic pairing of chocolate and cinhigh quality dark chocolate, a bit of milk namon, instead of the Aztecs’ old chocochocolate, non-alkalized cocoa powder, late and pepper combination (though and a touch of sugar. There are four vari- this is still common in Central and South eties: Classic, a base for the other drinking America in dishes such chocolates and the most as mole). popular; Azteca, which Now Naked and has a blend of spices; other modern-day, Spicy, which includes high-end chocolate a hint of cayenne and establishments are chili pepper; and the bringing it back to a Bittersweet, which is the real drinking chocoClassic but with more late. Contemporary A Naked drinking chocolate and truffles. dark chocolate. drinking chocolate is The Azteca and the Spicy drinking essentially melted chocolate, cocoa powchocolates are inspired by what the Az- der, and sugar. It is thicker than hot choctecs were drinking in the 14th, 15th, and olate (which uses steamed milk) and has a 16th centuries. “What I try doing is read- deep richness of both flavor and texture— ing about what they used to blend back which explains Naked’s tiny portions.

500 [to a] thousand years ago,” said Tom Beyond the form in which the chocBlock, the chocolatier at Naked. “Origi- olate is presented, Naked’s Azteca and nally chocolate was a very very bitter un- Spicy chocolates incorporate flavoring sweetened drink.” ideas from the Aztec period. The Azteca’s It turns out there is evidence that spice blend includes cinnamon, nutmeg, chocolate in this bitter form was used in cardamom, and cloves, following the earCentral and South American civilizations ly alterations to the Aztec idea of chocoup to 4000 years ago, according to Ruth late by the Spanish. Interestingly enough, Lopez’s book Chocolate: The Nature of In- though, chocolate with sugar and cindulgence. Because the Aztecs introduced namon is now considered “Mexican” Europeans to chocolate, we seem to give chocolate—neither Spanish nor Aztec. them most of the credit for chocolate.

The Spicy drinking chocolate, because it We know that the chocolate was bitter includes pepper and cayenne, could be due to the Aztecs’ lack of sugar, but this considered closer to Aztec chocolate. isn’t the only difference between chocoThese Aztec/Spanish flavoring influlate then and now. The Aztecs always ences are popular in today’s chocolates. had their chocolate as a drink—no solid “The exotic blends and the spicy mixes chocolate bars. The drink was cold and and the Aztec mixes I think all go along mixed with spices and flavors including with [a] heightened awareness in chocopepper, vanilla, and corn, writes Lopez. lates,” said Block. Sure enough, Naked According to Marcia and Frederic Mor- carries a truffle with the Azteca’s spices. ton, authors of Chocolate: The Illustrated “I think cinnamon and chocolate are History, sometimes chcolate was mixed a perfect combination,” said Block. “Cinwith honey, wine, or “the ground bones of namon, nutmeg, cloves...those flavors just ancestors” for medicinal purposes. really work well together and they work The missing link between Aztec great with chocolate.” chocolate and modern-day chocolate is Emma Morgenstern is a sophomore in the Colthe Europeanization of the stuff. “They lege. Her email is emmarm@sas.upenn.edu.

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Penn Appétit

Philadelphia’s Food Mecca: Experiencing By grEgory wall

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beehive. That’s what comes to mind when I recall my most recent trip to Philadelphia’s Reading Terminal Market. Why a beehive?

Reading Terminal has swarms of shoppers rushing from stall to stall, the buzz of merchants proudly making sales, and a sense of community you aren’t likely to find at Fresh Grocer. People are drawn to the Reading Terminal Market for a chance to experience a unique interaction with food and the people who make it possible. The market has become a Philadelphia institution in its onehundred-and-fifteen year history and continues to hum in spite of today’s industrial agribusiness.

Walking through the market for the first time, I am almost overwhelmed. It’s like a kaleidoscope of color and movement, somehow choreographed into one functional organism. I am struck by the unparalleled enthusiasm around me.

Emphatic neon signs and meticulous pyramids of food instinctively make my mouth water. I decide to break away from the bustling cement pathways to sip an Old City coffee

and munch on Amish spice cookies.

From the central food court, I observe people as they approach Hershel’s Deli or DiNic’s. I note that their unsure body language indicates how carefully they are deliberating over which sandwich will be their lunch.

Shopping here is an active process; a process foreign to the average supermarket shopper. Rather than reaching indifferently for a familiar box, you are forced to make difficult decisions about your purchases. The selection of stalls is so tremendous that I must watch to see how people pick among them. Do Le Bus’s crusty loaves rise above those of the Metro-politan Bakery? Can the lobsters at Jan Yi’s Fish Market outswim those at Wan’s Seafood? To me, it seems that appearance and smell are the vital signs of good food. I see shoppers carefully study jam-packed display cases at Downtown Cheese and answer the aromatic call of Kamal’s Middle Eastern pastries.

Seasonal and local specialties add another dimension to the market’s dizzying array. On my two recent visits to 12th and Arch, I see Jersey corn and

Penn Appétit

reading terminal Market photos by daniel schwartz

tomatoes turn to Pennsylvania apples and pumpkins within a two week span. Stalls like Kauffman’s Lancaster County Produce and Dutch Country Meats capitalize on the allure of such regional foods. Especially with today’s eco-conscious mindset, shoppers appreciate a connection to their food, perhaps trying to envision the fertile farmland of the Amish Country. It is this emphasis on food origin that differentiates the market from the average grocery store.

Let’s be honest though. Food doesn’t always represent such profound notions. Sometimes you just need some comforting, arteryclogging classics that throw caution to the wind. Buttery baked goods from Beiler’s, crispy fried oysters from Pearl’s Oyster Bar and velvety Bassetts ice cream are just some of many indulgences at Reading Te r m i n a l .

F o o d s like these lure many tourists away from the Liberty Bell and even establish hometown followings. But no matter what food choices are made, the attraction to the market is palpably strong. I see it in the way people jealously guard their purchases and sit down to containers

of food with great anticipation.

People may be attracted to the food, but this isn’t the only relationship in the market. Interpersonal connections are also key to the market’s success.

Even as a timid person I can’t help but ask questions about my purchases and interact with the shop owners. Each merchant is eager to tell you why their fish is the freshest, how their cheese aged, or what type of bread is best for panini. These food conversations provoke some unlikely interactions.

Amish farmers chat with modern city dwellers and blue-collar workers rub elbows with wealthy housewives.

The market seems to breed diverse community with food as the common denominator.

With only a few subway stops separating Penn and this historic market, it is a shame not to take the trip.

Pick up a variety of gourmet goodies, w i t n e s s small business at its best, and soak up a little Philadelphia culture, all under one roof. After just one visit to the market, I’m convinced you won’t eat to live.

Rather, you’ll live to eat.

Greg Wall is a freshman in the College.

His email is wallgr@sas.upenn.edu.

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TOM BLOCK Continued from Page 7 If the world were your oyster, what flavors would you want to put in a chocolate further on down the line?

I was thinking eventually about doing some things with some different wines and chocolate or cheeses and chocolate. After the holidays I may start to play with some of that.

And pairing wines and especially dark chocolates are great. I’m thinking about seeing if we can do some of that make some different truffles with that.

For the chocolate lover with an adventurous palate, what would you recommend as the most unusual thing at Naked?

Our Spicy hot chocolate drink is good, I do some savory truffles, [such as] the Lemon Thyme. We try to mix a few flavors that way.

I tried the Hawaiian blossom in the white chocolate. That was amazing.

I love white chocolates and so often they’re just so bland.

No, I love our white chocolate. We do a blend here. I always think I need to do more white chocolate. We don’t have much at all. I’ll make some for the holidays. It’s not a big seller but the people that like it like it What that [Hawaiian blossom] is, is we sprinkle a little Hawaiian lava salt on it. It’s really interesting.

This whole thing with the savory and sweet...

If you had to recommend one menu item above all to customers at Naked Chocolate, what would it be?

I think they should have the classic hot chocolate or some variety of hot chocolate. And if I only have one choice I would make it the Classic or the Bittersweet. Not everybody wants that spice and not everybody wants the heat but if you love chocolate you’ll love the Classic or the Bittersweet.

Jamie Png is a Penn alumna. Her email is jamiepng@gmail.com.

Page 10 | Penn Appétit Otherwise, the typical Korean practice of guards rather than pets. Eating one is hardKIMCHI grilling meats lends itself well to the Amer- ly as shocking as it would be in America.

Continued from Page 3 ed in cookbook illustrations. I began to better appreciate flavors, herbs, and textures.

I eventually developed a keen interest in exotic cuisines—opening the door to a renewed love of Korean food.

Once again, I was consuming the foods of (at least half of) my people. Jjigae, one of my favorites, is a soybean paste soup served boiling hot. It can have many variations but typically is made up of tofu, vegetables, kimchi, and meat. Since the soup is so hot when served, slurping is the only way to avoid burning your tongue and thus is not considered a dinnertime faux pas.

To my amazement, many of my nonAsian friends in high school also enjoyed Korean food, especially BBQ. It became a treat for us to make the trek out to Koreatown. We would enjoy getting the marinated meats served raw that we had to grill at the table. Spicy pork and beef (bulgogi) are most common, as Koreans eat little chicken.

It seems that for the most part, however, many Americans have yet to discover Korean food. Unlike Chinese takeout, it does not fare well in delivery, because the dishes must be steaming hot and they are served with many sides. Furthermore, since the Korean-American population is centered in Southern California, the cuisine has yet to become as ubiquitous as Chinese or Japanese cuisines in other parts of the country.

MALAYSIAN CUISINE Continued from Page 5 tical. I convinced Pete to order the same entrées we had eaten at Penang, just so we could make a definitive judgment as to which restaurant was, in fact, better.

Both dishes were, happily for us, far better executed than their counterparts at Penang. I shared Pete’s Char Kway Teow , and the wider noodles, despite being less greasy, were also surprisingly moist. It was - hallelujah! - the right color, which also meant it was heaps more flavorful.

We found fluffy, steaming clumps of egg stirred throughout the dish (not just on top of the noodles) that were heaven to pick out and savor. Chunks of calamari were substantial and tender, the prawns

ican appetite for charred flesh.

In the modern era however, many Koreans, Though I have accepted my Korean my family included, are opposed to eating palate, I can’t always follow Korean culi- dog. nary tradition. In Korean cuisine there is Today, I appreciate my dual heritage. It little difference between breakfast, lunch has allowed me insight into a vastly differand dinner. Typically what is left over from ent culture and it has given me a chance to dinner is served for breakfast. I have yet travel and explore East Asia. Visiting Korea to adapt to the idea of eating kimchi for this past summer further solidified this breakfast so instead opt for my favorite positive outlook. The variety and flavor of Korean treat: red bean. Koreans don’t have the food alone was enough to convince me. the American taste for Back at Penn, persweets, so red bean is petually feasting the Korean equivalent on peanut butter of chocolate. It is typiand banana sandcally used as a filling wiches, I yearn for for pastries and served the Korean dishes as dessert after meals. from home.

Bungeoppang is a fish Whenever I shaped pastry filled am back in Caliwith red bean paste. It fornia, I beg my is served hot at street mom to take me vending stands, the A variety of side dishes accompanying a plate of to Koreatown for steaming filling oozing raw bulgogi. lunch. “See, I told out at the first bite. My mom used to bribe you your stomach was Korean,” she gloats. me with pastries so I would go to Korean Now, I would be hard-pressed to convince supermarkets—this offer always made me myself otherwise. Food gave me a chance willing to go. to open the doors toward embracing my I can’t discuss Korean food without Korean side. If it has this power, I assure mentioning dog meat. Koreans tradition- you that Korean food is, at the very least, ally ate dog. Dog soup was believed to help worth trying. A plate full of bulgogi later, enhance male sexual stamina and was an you’ll be looking at Asian cuisine in a new inexpensive source of meat for farmers. light.

Canines do not have the status of man’s Marianne O’Brien is a sophomore in the Colbest friend in Korea, typically being seen as lege. Her email is pinkpuella@gmail.com. larger and perfectly cooked, and the bean sprouts had just the right of crispness.

My Nasi Lemak was hearteningly impressive. Fresh cucumber slices balanced the chicken rendang curry. Expecting a bog-standard Malaysian curry chicken like the one served at Penang, I was thrilled to find rendang curry in Banana Leaf’s version. Rendang is a marvelously rich, braised meat coconut curry that derives its complex flavour from a bevy of powerful spices (among them tumeric, cinnamon, galangal, cardamom) and a special slow-cooked simmering process. This dish is one I hold especially close to my heart, so the warm, fall-off-the bone tender chicken made me very happy. Banana Leaf’s achar was luscious and tangy: both it and the crispy ikan bilis were deliciously

spicy enough to redden my lips, and complemented the fragrant, soft mouthfuls of coconut rice I mixed it with. To top it all off, we were each served a bowl of the complimentary house dessert: a warm sweet soup of boiled red beans and coconut milk. Definitely beats sliced oranges.

And so we have our verdict, in a nutshell: Penang 0, Banana Leaf 1. Penang has more expensive décor and a bigger name, but the overall impression we got was that their food seems to be dumbed down for an American audience. Banana Leaf, however, eschewed blandness. With a greater dedication to authenticity, coupled with lower prices, Banana Leaf definitely wins my vote for Philly’s best Malaysian restaurant.

Jamie Png is a Penn alum. Her email is jamiepng@gmail.com.

Page 11 |

Penn Appétit

Dorm Room Recipes

by emily selvin

|

PhotogRaPh by Danielle koo

Penn Students are often confronted with the boredom of dining hall food. But what can you do if you don’t have a kitchen?

Here are a few simple recipes designed for students with the most basic dorm room equipment: a microwave and a minifridge.

Emily Selvin is a freshman in the College. Her email is eselvin@sas.upenn.edu.

Lunch: Curry Chicken Salad on Sourdough One can of chicken 1/4 cup of mayonnaise (or to taste) Curry powder to taste 1-2 tbsp. of onions 1/2 apple, chopped into bite-size pieces 2 slices sourdough bread

Breakfast: Scrambled Eggs on a Bagel 2 eggs 2 tbsp. milk Salt and pepper to taste 2 tbsp. margarine 1 slice of cheese of your choice

Combine the ingredients. Add more curry powder if desired, and refrigerate.

Spread on sourdough or another bread of choice when ready to eat!

Beat the eggs in a bowl and add milk, salt and pepper. Melt 2 teaspoons of margarine in a 1-quart casserole dish in microwave for 30 seconds. Pour egg mixture into dish and microwave uncovered for 3 to 4 minutes.

Remove and let stand covered for 2 minutes.

Add chopped tomatoes and/or onions for an optional twist.

If you have a toaster, toast the bagel.

Add a slice of cheese and enjoy!

Adapted from a recipe on baltimoresun.com

Dinner: Pesto and Mozzarella Veggie Burgers with Teriyaki Vegetable Stir Fry 1 veggie burger 1 hamburger roll/bun Fresh mozzarella, sliced 1 tbsp. store-bought pesto 1 bag of frozen vegetables Teriyaki or peanut sauce to taste

Veggie Burger: Cook according to direction on packaging. If you have a toaster, toast burger buns or roll. Spread pesto on the roll and add veggie burger and cheese.

You can also add sliced tomatoes, onions, and lettuce.

Vegetable Stir: Empty the bag of frozen veggies into a microwave-safe bowl. Cook in the microwave on high for about four minutes, stirring about halfway through. Add either teriyaki Dessert: Fudge sauce or peanut sauce to taste and cook on high for an additional 30 2-2/3 cups confectioners’ sugar seconds.

1/2 cup cocoa 1/4 cup milk Adapted from a recipe on http:// busycooks.about.com 1/2 cup butter 1 tsp. vanilla 1/2 cup chopped pecans (optional)

Combine confectioners’ sugar, cocoa, milk, and butter. Microwave on high power until butter is melted, about 2 to 3 minutes. Stir until smooth.

Blend in vanilla and pecans. Spread in a buttered 8-inch square pan and refrigerate. When cooled, cut fudge into squares.

Adapted from a recipe on http://southernfood.about.com/od/chocolaterecipes/