The Fit Guide

The Fit Guide How to look good in any suit AU $4.95

Photo by Elisabeth Willis

A tailored fit never goes out of style There’s a secret to dressing well – and it has more to do with the way your garments fit than the style of the clothes themselves.

More often than not, it’s the cut and fit of a suit that makes you feel like a million bucks when you get ready each morning. That’s because when your clothes are comfortable and tailored to sit perfectly, getting dressed becomes a pleasure, not a chore.

So to help you get your wardrobe into shape, we have put together The Fit Guide. Covering pants, shirts and jackets, it’s your handbook on how your clothes should fit. It’s not realistic for every man to own a collection of bespoke suits, but when you know what to look for, shopping for clothes in store and then having them tailored becomes simple. This way of building a wardrobe

is far more affordable and the results are just as individual when you use a good tailor.

We believe that a quality suit is for the every man. No matter how seriously you take yourself, the pride you feel when you are well dressed makes it easier to carry yourself through the day.

As you read this guide, you will come to realise that just a few small tweaks to your garments can make all the difference. Our tailors and stylists have a wealth of experience that can’t be condensed into a single guide, so if you have more questions after reading this, you are more than welcome to contact us for further information. You will find our contact details at the end of this guide.

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A SLIM FITTING SHIRT Shirts look best when they fit well through the midsection and the sleeves sit at a stylish length.

More information on page 16

A WELL BALANCED JACKET Every jacket needs the correct shoulder width and sleeve length, and a good fit around the torso.

Learn more on page 6

COMFORTABLE TROUSERS When it comes to trousers, you need the right waist size, crotch length and tapering of the legs.

Get the details on page 12

Photos by Keegan Nicholls unless otherwise stated Front and back cover photos by Larry Lim

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The anatomy of a perfectly fitted suit

Design & layout: Hannah Byrne Photography: Keegan Nicholls, Elisabeth Willis, Larry Lim Words: Melinda Halloran and Clare Sheng Produced by Pendant Publishing www.pendantpublishing.com.au Š2017 The Fitting Room on Edward All rights reserved. This publication or any portion thereof may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the publisher.

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The Jacket There are two reasons why the fit of a jacket is so important.

Firstly, it is the hero of any suit, so you want to get it right. Secondly, there’s nothing worse than feeling uncomfortable in an ill-fitting jacket. With men having such varied upper body shapes, it is rare to find a jacket that fits you perfectly.

Sagging, bunching and rippling of the fabric are

all signs that the garment needs work done. The good news is that alterations are simple to make, but do try to avoid jackets that are too short, too small or too narrow around the shoulders, as letting them out is far more complex than taking them in.

Smooth across the shoulders Fitted through the chest

Sleeves end just below the wrist

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The Jacket: Torso Structurally, the jacket’s torso is one of the most complex parts of a suit.

That means that if this part of the jacket doesn’t fit snugly, there are plenty of ways it can be altered. When a jacket is too big and doesn’t sit neatly against your body, it can be tapered through the back and side seams.

Signs that a jacket is too small are fabric wrinkling at the button closure and a flared hem. Depending on how it is made, it is not

always possible to let out a jacket, so try to avoid purchasing smaller garments.

Length is also important: too short makes the jacket look small, too long makes it look big (and also makes you look shorter). When your arms hang in a relaxed position, the bottom of the jacket should align with the part of your hands where your palm meets your fingers.

INCORRECT FIT

CORRECT FIT

• No shape in the torso • Buttons sit too low • Loose across the shoulders

• Tapered around the waist • Sits at the correct length • Top button sits at smallest part of the waist

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The Jacket: Shoulders Jacket shoulders are important to get right, as they do have a significant impact on the overall style of a suit.

In the nineties, for example, wide shoulders were wildly popular, but now slim-fitting suits are back and this fit is far more flattering. If you happen to have a suit that is older but still in good condition, altering the shoulders is a simple way to modernise it.

In terms of fit, the shoulder seam should rest where your arm meets your shoulder. If the

shoulder pads hang past your shoulder line or dimples form at the top of the sleeve, this part of the jacket is too wide and needs to be taken in. When ripples form in the fabric around the shoulder seam at the top of the arm, the shoulders are too narrow and the fabric is being stretched as a result.

CORRECT FIT • Smooth across the shoulders • No fabric ripples below the collar • Fits comfortably across the back

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The Jacket: Shoulder slope Men either have square or sloped shoulders, and this affects the way a jacket sits on them.

If you have square shoulders, you need to watch out for a bubble forming in the fabric underneath the collar on the back of your jacket (this is called a neck roll). Most suits are cut on a generic block with a slightly sloped shoulder shape, making this a typical issue for men with square shoulders.

That doesn’t mean you have to live with a neck roll, as they are an easy alteration for a tailor

to make.

Men with sloped shoulders will often find that the shoulder area of a jacket feels loose. As a result, vertical ripples will form in the back near the shoulder blades. This can be fixed by adding some shoulder padding to balance out the jacket and ensure it sits correctly.

INCORRECT FIT - TOO TIGHT

INCORRECT FIT - TOO LOOSE

• Shoulders are too square • Neck roll bunching above the shoulder blades • Tight across the torso and sleeves

• Sleeves are too wide • Fabric dimples at the top of the sleeves • Shoulder seam hangs past the top of the arm

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The Jacket: Sleeves Correct sleeve length shows that you pay attention to your attire and is one of the easiest adjustments to make.

If your jacket sleeves are too short, the jacket will look as though you’ve outgrown it. If they are too long, the cuff of your shirt won’t be visible and your suit will look unpolished.

When adjusting jacket sleeves, you have two options depending on your style: professional or fashion length. Professional is a more traditional look with the sleeve ending around the wrist

bone, showing around half an inch of the shirt cuff. Fashion is slightly shorter, showing up to an inch of the shirt cuff.

The width of a jacket’s sleeve should sit comfortably around the arm and shirt cuff. If you wear French-cuffed shirts, bring the shirt to your fitting so the tailor can make adjustments accordingly.

INCORRECT FIT

CORRECT FIT

• Cuffs are too wide • Loose around the arms • Sleeves hang past the thumb joint

• Shirt cuff is visible • Sleeves sit just below the wrist • Tapering towards the cuffs

The Fitting Room on Edward

Photo by Larry Lim

The golden rule of jacket buttoning Always have your top jacket button done up when standing and undone while sitting. Buttoning your jacket whilst standing creates a cleaner silhouette, while unbuttoning it when you sit is more comfortable and prevents wrinkles forming. The bottom button on a two-button jacket should never be fastened.

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The Trousers A good pair of trousers is a staple item in any wardrobe and the right fit will flatter your natural body shape.

Well-fitted trousers fall flat without any pooling or pulling of the fabric. The pockets should sit neatly without flaring and the rear of the trousers should follow the curve of the body without any wrinkles forming.

When looking for trousers, it’s most important

to find a pair that fits correctly around the seat, as this is the most complex part to alter. Tapering the legs, shortening the length and bringing in the waist are the simpler adjustments to make and should be a secondary concern to the seat.

Fits well in the waist band Crotch length is appropriate

Tapered in the legs for a slim look

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The Trousers: Length The ideal length for a pair of trousers depends on the style you prefer to wear.

For the most flattering look, wear wide trousers at full length and narrow trousers just resting on the shoe. Changing the length of the trousers is a very simple and fast adjustment. For this reason, it’s not uncommon to find dress pants that are sold unhemmed.

Classically cut trousers are wide and straight, and they look best when finished at the heel with

a full break (this is the dimple that forms where your trousers sit on top of your shoes).

Modern trousers are more narrow and tapered at the hem. They should be slightly shorter than classically cut trousers, with only a small break at the front. Very slim trousers are best worn just above the shoe, so that a break doesn’t form.

INCORRECT FIT

CORRECT FIT

• Trousers are too long • Excess bunching above the shoe • No tapering at the ankle

• Neatly tapered • Sits at the rim of the shoe • A half break forms at the front

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The Trousers: Width Like the length of your trousers, the width you choose will depend upon whether you prefer the classic wide-leg look or a modern tapered style.

A tapered leg suits most men, as it elongates the body and has a slimming effect (an important consideration if you are short and want to look taller). For comfort and a clean silhouette, taper the trouser legs from the knee down. The amount of tapering you choose should be in proportion with your body shape, so that your pants are as

flattering as possible.

Traditional pleat-front trousers are making a come back, giving style-conscious men more options when looking for pants to complement their body shape. This cut is more comfortable for men with a large backside or muscular legs, and can still be tapered at the hem for a modern finish.

INCORRECT FIT

CORRECT FIT

• Seat is too long • Loose around the legs • Hem bunches at the shoes

• Tapered through the legs • Seat is the appropriate width • Half break forms above the shoes

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The Trousers: Waist and seat The waist and seat of trousers should be considered together.

The seat is the centre back seam that runs down to the crotch from the waistband. It is far more complex to alter the crotch than the waist so try to find pants that sit comfortably here.

Finding well-fitted trousers can be a problem for men with larger backsides, as most men’s trousers are cut with smaller seats. If this is the case for you, opt for a larger size that follows the shape

of your body and have a tailor take the waist in.

When the seat is too small, the trouser pockets will flare and if it’s too large, the fabric will sag under the crotch.

The waist should sit just under the belly button and have enough room to fit two fingers under the waistband. This will ensure you can sit comfortably in your trousers.

INCORRECT FIT

CORRECT FIT

• Seat is too long • Loose around the waist • Bunching around the belt

• Seat is the right length • Waistband sits flat against the body • Neatly follows the curve of the body

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The Shirt There is a fine line between a well-fitted shirt and one that is too big.

Unfortunately many gents end up crossing that line in order to find a shirt that fits comfortably.

If you can relate, you are not alone – most men struggle to find shirts that fit them correctly.

To ensure your shirt is functional as well as fitted, pay attention to the sleeves and the torso.

The right tailoring in these areas will mean that your shirt sits well and provides you with enough room to move. An important note on dress shirts: as they are cut longer, they should always be worn tucked in.

Smooth across the shoulders Fitted through the chest

Sleeves end just below the wrist

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The Shirt: Sleeves Shirt sleeves are often overlooked, but they are an important part of looking properly put together.

In terms of length, the shirt cuff should just cover the wrist. Any longer or shorter and your shirt will appear ill fitting. While it’s tempting to make your sleeves shorter to show off a nice watch, a far more sophisticated way to dress is to have a slightly looser shirt cuff that your watch will comfortably sit underneath. Once your shirt sleeves have been shortened, it’s generally not possible

to lengthen them again.

For a tailored fit, taper your sleeves gradually down the arm. Tapering sleeves to the correct width prevents bunching around the shoulder, elbow and cuff. To check the fit of your sleeves, pinch the fabric – it should be no more than three centimetres wider than the arm.

INCORRECT FIT

CORRECT FIT

• Loose around the cuff • Sleeves are ballooning • Sits too close to the knuckles

• Sleeves are tapered • Cuff is neatly fitted • Sits just beneath the wrist joint

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The Shirt: Torso Finding the right fit on the torso is a familiar struggle for many men, especially those who have wider shoulders, as they need shirts with larger torsos for mobility.

If this is the case for you, use the military tuck technique to taper the waist and prevent any ballooning.

For men with wide shoulders or large midsections, a shirt with a box pleat at the back will give you the best fit. Men with slimmer figures should avoid box pleats, as the shirt will balloon too much. Shirts with darts generally offer a bet-

ter fit and these can be added in the alterations process.

Three centimetres of fabric on each side of the body is the ideal fit, though shirts can be tapered more depending on the look you are going for.

Any excess fabric around the torso can be taken in using the side seams. If you notice buttons gaping at the front of the shirt, it is too tight.

INCORRECT FIT

CORRECT FIT

• Ballooning at the sides • Loose around the back and waist • Excess overhang at the trousers

• Fitted at the back with darts • Sits neatly at the trousers • Buttons are flush against the body

The Fitting Room on Edward

"Clothes don't make a man, but clothes have got many a man a good job." — Herbert Harold Vreeland Photo by Elisabeth Willis

Photo by Elisabeth Willis

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Checklist: The building blocks of a good wardrobe Fashion seasons come and go, but the classics will always be relevant. To ensure your style will withstand the test of time, Kurt Wildermuth from The Afternoon Tailors recommends the key pieces every man should have in his wardrobe.

These pieces are investments and should be treated as such. Even the finest suit will look cheap if it’s not properly fitted, so entrust your foundational pieces to a tailor.

SUITS

SHIRTS

Suits aren’t just for the office or occasional wedding – they are incredibly versatile and can be dressed up or down to take you from work to play.

A good shirt is one of the hardest-working pieces in your wardrobe. Look for twill or poplin weave shirts, as they are better quality.

• Mid-grey wool pinstripe or Glen Urquhart suit (½ lined, lightly structured)

• White shirt with a mid-spread collar • White oxford shirt with a button-down collar • Sky blue shirt with a mid-spread collar • Check or striped shirt with a mid-spread collar • Linen or chambray shirt with a button-down collar

TIES

CASUAL JACKET

With just four ties, you can create a variety of looks. Plain ties will never fall from favour, but it’s always a good idea to have patterned ties handy to mix things up.

• Two plain ties (navy and grey)

When it’s not necessary to wear a suit, a casual jacket is the ideal compromise. To get the look right, choose lighter materials and styles with a looser structure.

• Navy wool single-breasted two-button suit

(½ lined, lightly structured) • Charcoal grey wool single-breasted suit (½

lined, lightly structured)

• Striped tie • Patterned tie

• Lightly structured linen or unstructured cotton jacket

SHOES CHINOS Chinos are so versatile that you can get away with owning just two pairs (one dark and one lighter pair) and wearing them to death.

Classic brogue and oxford styles go with pretty much everything, from a casual weekend look to your best suit. Get started with one black and one brown pair.

• Navy cotton chinos • Neutral cotton chinos

• Black leather oxfords • Dark brown leather brogues

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A note from Clare, director A good tailor is every well-dressed man’s best-kept secret.

As Hugh Jackman said: “There’s a tailor I go to in Naples who’s fantastic. But if I told anyone his name, I’d have to kill them.” Here in Brisbane, we have been altering menswear for more than 30 years and I’ve had the pleasure of running The Fitting Room on Edward for the last six years. In this time, men’s style has had a resurgence and we are now seeing more men taking an interest in the way they present themselves to the world.

By specialising in menswear alterations, our modern-day tailors know the anatomy of a suit inside out. As well as paying attention to every detail of your garment, we also offer honest advice on how to dress for your body type and personal style. That means there’s no need to cross the Wolverine to find a good tailor – you can simply come to us. We’re in the CBD and passionate about keeping Brisbane men looking their best.

The Fitting Room on Edward

Organising your fitting Our tailors work their magic from our studio on Edward Street in Brisbane’s CBD. Drop-ins are welcome and we also take appointment bookings.

SHOP 38, ANZAC SQUARE ARCADE 267 Edward Street, Brisbane (Street entry from Edward Street) 07 3221 1265 www.thefittingroomonedward.com.au

Monday to Friday: 8am to 5pm Saturday: 9.30am to 4pm For more style ideas, follow us on social media Facebook: thefittingroomonedward Instagram: @thefittingroom_onedward