NEW WORLD

California

A long and impressive heritage of winemaking exists in the USA, dating back 300 years to the arrival of the Spanish. Where Spanish colonists went, the duology of olives and grapes followed, establishing a strong tradition of winemaking throughout the West. 90% of wines produced are from California, Oregon and Washington, but wine is in fact made in all 50 states. Since 1978, areas are specified as AVA (American Viticultural Area) and, as in France with Appellation d’Origine Contrôllée, this is a means to ensure quality control and to establish global reputations.

California remains the pinnacle of American wine growing, with wine regions stretching from south of Santa Barbara up to Mendocino, and vast swaths of vineyards in the Central Valley (largely producing unremarkable table wine, though if you look hard you can find some real gems). The stars remain Sonoma and Napa, with the Santa Cruz Mountains, Sta Rita Hills, and Paso Robles quickly gaining ground.

The famous Judgment of Paris of 1976 put California fine wines on the map for European buyers, as California wine after California wine took top marks during an era when New World wines were routinely ignored. The normal order of things was upturned during the blind tasting – as journalist George Taber wrote at the time, “As they swirled, sniffed, sipped and spat, some judges were instantly able to separate an imported upstart from an aristocrat. More often, the panel was confused. “Ah, back to France!” exclaimed [one judge] after sipping a 1972 Chardonnay from the Napa Valley. “That is definitely California. It has no nose,” said another judge—after downing a Batard Montrachet ’73.” The wins led to heavy investment in California winery, and the robust industry we see today.

Sadly for us, much of their top wine remains in California, due to both strong domestic demand and limited supply. However, we are very fortunate to have access to some of them. These include Harlan Estate in Napa - their “Proprietary Red” is legendary and very sought after; and Snowden in Napa, who make Cabernet which is out of this world. Paul Draper’s Ridge wines are an honour to work with. Although famous for his Zinfandels, he also makes a wonderful Bordeauxstyle premium red, Monte Bello, and a fabulous, smoky Chardonnay, along with magnificent Merlot and Petite Sirah.

Robyn Potts

NAPA VALLEY

CLASSIC GRAPE VARIETALS

Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Merlot, Zinfandel.

FAVOURITE PRODUCERS

Ridge, Stag’s Leap, Opus One, Montelena, Dominus, Screaming Eagle and Harlan.

AREA UNDER VINE

17,400ha

MEET THE GROWER

Ridge Vineyards

Ridge, and specifically Monte Bello, is a true icon of world Fine Wine. At around £30 per bottle, both the Geyserville and Lytton Springs offer extremely good bang for buck with all the pedigree of this wonderful estate. In the words of William Kelley, Ridge has always been deliberately in the model of “pre-industrial” Bordeaux. He went on to say it is “an American first growth …This is a wine that’s invariably structured around firm, chalky tannins and balanced by bright acids. …That means it starts out life quite tight-knit and taut, but it’s beautifully vibrant and delineated at maturity. And maturity takes time: classic vintages are dependably better at age 20 than at age ten.” Lytton Springs is more Bordeaux-like, while Geyserville can have more Pinot like characteristics, yet both are delicious.

MONTE BELLO

RIDGE VINEYARDS 2018

DRINK 2022-2038

6x75 £882

The 2018 Monte Bello is supremely elegant and sublime. I can’t remember a young Monte Bello with this much pure finesse. Perfumed floral and spice notes and silky tannins give the 2018 a feel of total refinement. Today, the 2018 comes across as medium in body, and a wine that will age on its superb balance, rather than size or structure. I can’t wait to taste it in a bit more finished form.

—ANTONIO GALLONI VINOUS 93-96

One of the most reliably outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon blends in the world.

—WILLIAM KELLEY

VINOUS 94 VINOUS 92+

LYTTON SPRINGS

RIDGE VINEYARDS 2017

DRINK 2020 - 2030

12x75 £360

Ridge’s 2017 Lytton Springs opens up beautifully, with bright acids that drive a whole range of red/purplish fruit intermingled with floral notes. Creamy and ample in feel, the 2017 boasts superb balance and pedigree. Readers lucky enough to own it should plan on cellaring it for at least a few years.

—ANTONIO GALLONI

GEYSERVILLE

RIDGE VINEYARDS 2017

DRINK 2020 - 2030

12x75 £360

The 2017 Zinfandel Geyserville exudes energy, but it is also very tight and closed in on itself. Time in the glass helps the wine open up, but only to a limited extent. Pretty scents of leather, savory herbs, spice and earthiness hint at what is to come. Readers should plan on being patient, but Ridge lovers know that. In most years, Geyserville starts hitting its stride around age ten.

—ANTONIO GALLONI

TRAVEL TIPS

Northern California

From San Francisco, head north. Feeling outdoorsy? Hike among the redwoods at Muir Woods on your way to Stinson Beach or the Point Reyes seashore. Eager to get straight to the wine? You have so many choices – head straight up 101 to the incredibly charming town of Healdsburg and stay amidst the pristine gardens of the historic Madrona Manor. From Healdsburg, you’re well placed to explore the Sonoma Valley. Pick up a picnic lunch of the very best sandwiches at the Glen Ellen Village Market before going on to your favourite winery.

Exploring Napa? Start at the Oxbow Public Market (particular favourites are the Hog Island Oyster Bar, the Fatted Calf, and the Model Bakery) before driving north to Stag’s Leap. Or hire a private car, perhaps, and stop it at more! You can’t go wrong eating in this area, from the established giants of the area (Mustards Grill, The French Laundry) to your local taqueria.

Don’t forget to head south of San Francisco as well, to one of our favourite wineries - Ridge Vineyards just outside Cupertino - to taste the best of the Santa Cruz Mountains. You might follow that with a night in Carmel by the Sea, then a drive down Highway 1 (classic views and food from Nepenthe Restaurant or the Big Sur Bakery) before crossing back inland to Paso Robles. I can personally vouch for tastings at Halter Ranch in the region’s Adelaide district – don’t miss the tour of the vineyard in the classic Land Rover, for a taste of England in the golden hills of California.

Notable places

Robyn Potts

MADRONA MANOR

1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg, CA, 95448

www.madronamanor.com

OXBOW PUBLIC MARKET

610 + 644 First Street, Napa, CA, 94559

oxbowpublicmarket.com

South America

This continent has been planted with Vitis Vinifera since the conquistadors arrived and needed wine for their missionaries and troops. Quite gruesome was Cortes’ order that colonists should plant 1,000 vines for every 100 dead indigenous people. ‘Pais,’ or what in Califormia is tellingly called ‘Mission,’ is a grape variety widespread across the continent, still making up a third of its production today. In the modern era though it is French (or ‘international’ as they are often described) varieties that have pushed the boundaries of quality.

The two top producing countries are Argentina and Chile, with producing regions spanning a wide array of latitudes and where the Andes mountain range plays a key role. On the equivalent latitudes to Beirut in the northern hemisphere, Mendoza, Argentina and Chile’s Central Valley make use of the altitude and the cool nights it brings – highly important in developing aromatic complexity.

Until the 1980s most production was of bulk commercial volume. The Argentinian cultural approach to wine was and is much like that of Spain and Italy. More recently though, quantity has dropped and quality has increased as smaller growers produce artisan wines. In Argentina one of the key ingredients has been the rise of Malbec – a grape allowed in Bordeaux and found more regularly in Cahors. Few have done more for Malbec’s rise than Nicolas Catena. Through painstaking research and across many vintages he identified which Malbec clones were best suited for the varied microclimates of Mendoza. In the Andes’ rain-shadow, Mendoza relies on irrigation from snowmelt to provide enough water for the grapes. We are keen followers of the joint venture between Catena and Baron de Rothschilds (Lafite), Bodegas Caro.

Just a 50-minute flight across the Andes to Santiago and Chile’s Central Valley one finds a much wetter climate. Pinned between cold mountains (the Andes) and a cold Pacific current (the Humboldt) there is a huge array of microclimates here with varying degrees of temperature and rainfall to accommodate a large variety of wine-styles. The viticultural zone here is bordered by the Atacama Desert in the north, and the wetter southern area of Bio Bio. Further south rainfall is deemed too high and sunlight too low. Grapes grown in Chile are mostly French. Vina Errazuriz produce high quality wines for everyday drinking and some excellent wines at the premium end. Its owner is Eduardo Chadwick (Decanters’ Man of the Year 2018) who also oversees Chile’s ‘icon’ wines – Vinedo Chadwick and Sena – both of which command high global release prices as investment wines. Almaviva, a Rothschild (Mouton) and Concha y Toro joint venture is another key quality producer.

Tom Meade

CLASSIC GRAPE VARIETALS

Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon

FAVOURITE PRODUCERS

Amancaya, Catena, Sena, Trapiche and Cheval des Andes

CARO

BODEGAS CARO, MENDOZA 2016

DRINK 2020-2034

6x75 £175

A modest 13.5%. Rich dark damson plum, raspberry, fig and dark chocolate undertones. Palate has silky smooth tannins but lovely volume of dark berry fruit, with a cassis underscore; good fruit intensity and a clean pure finish.

This very stylish but laidback wine needs at least a few more years in bottle to unwind …. This joint project of Lafite-Rothschild and Nicolas Catena is distinctly claret-like in 2016.

—VINOUS MEET THE GROWER

Bodegas Caro

MENDOZA

Caro is a joint venture between two great wine families: Catena and Rothschild (hence the name). The blend here is usually 80% Cabernet and 20% Malbec. The wine is aged in 60% new French oak for 18 months, which are coopered at Château Lafite. I have bought this since its first release in 2000 and am a huge fan. Instantly appealing as soon as the cork is pulled. Dense, dark, lush and mouth-filling, this is seductive and full of pleasure. Very much reflects its breeding, heritage and place. Its sister wine, Amancaya, is also well worth trying - being earlier drinking and usually 80% Malbec and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.

MEET THE GROWER Zuccardi

MENDOZA

Sebastian Zuccardi is overseeing a revolution at his family winery in Mendoza, Argentina. A revolution in quality. They completed their fantastic new winery a few years ago, made from concrete and materials from their Piedra Infinita site. The latest proof of Zuccardi’s soaring quality – if more was needed after some recent 100-point efforts for his fanatstic Malbec’s – is the stunningly poised flagship Chardonnay, Fosil 2019, released in 2020 with a 95 point score.

The Estate’s wines are now some of the finest being made in Argentina today, in no small part thanks to Sebastian Zuccardi’s drive and terroir-led vision. They own sites in the Uco Valley with two of the highest and best vineyards: Gualtallary and San Pablo. For their winemaking in pursuit of terroir led results, they ferment in concrete and eggs and age in used foudres and concrete. The results are obvious for all to see.

FOSIL CHARDONNAY

ZUCCARDI 2016

DRINK 2020- 2029 6x75 £205

A Chardonnay from San Pablo, Uco Valley, made with direct pressing and fermented with native yeasts in concrete eggs and 500 liters French barrels with no must. A yellowy-green in the glass, the nose contains aromas of country herbs, resin, apple, pears, peas and a hint of cardamom. Complex and intriguing, the 2019 Fósil Zuccardi has a powerful texture in the mouth and sustained flavor with heightened but contained freshness that comes in with a kick at the end. This white, Sebastian Zuccardi’s best, is influenced by the wines of Burgundy.

—JOAQUIN HIDALGO

VINOUS 95

POINTS

The Zuccardi wines I tasted in April were consistently superb and the etsate’s top wines are among the finest being made in Argentina today.

—STEPHEN TANZER

New Zealand and Australia

We at Farthinghoe are only just beginning our wine relationship with Australia. A hugely important player in the world of wine, and a place I was lucky enough to live in for almost 3 years in the early 90s. Huge players like Penfolds, part of Treasury wine estates, Yalumba, and McGuigan ensure a ready volume of great drinking wine for the world, and equally, of course there are a multitude of small estates turning out some exceptional juice.

I visited the Yarra valley north of Melbourne in February 2018, and if you are heading to Melbourne, I recommend wholeheartedly heading there yourselves. It takes about an hour to get there. I tasted at five wineries, the best of which was the impressive Giant Steps. Owned and run by Phil Sexton, who founded Devils Lair over in Margaret River, this boutique operation produces some amazing mineral Chardonnays, so far removed from the oily, rich Ozzie chardonnays of old, and pure, expressive Pinot Noir. I assure you, you will enjoy their easy engaging style and effortless drinkability. These wines are really very good indeed. For a very comprehensive commentary on the Australian wine scene, have a look at Matthew Jukes’ 100 Best Australian Wines.

New Zealand is home to bountiful wines, and we are buyers of many of them, including Cloudy Bay, Felton Road, and the mighty and ever increasingly respected Akitu in Central Otago - a winery we have been working with since it was founded in 2002. These constitute a large part of my own cellar. Situated in the South Island of New Zealand, Central Otago’s dramatic vineyard-scape is the world’s most southern, and the country’s highest. Climate is semi-continental with frosts often occurring, high sunshine hours averaging 1,973 per annum, tempered by cool nights, making for a harsh environment for vines, so site selection is critical. Pinot Noir is king here, occupying 1,484 hectares, followed by Pinot Gris at 226 hectares, Riesling at 86 hectares and Chardonnay with 52 hectares. Sauvignon makes a cameo appearance with 45 hectares, in stark contrast to Marlborough in the north of the South Island where it rules. “Central,” as it is known, is responsible for only 2.4% of total New Zealand wine production, but WOW – the Pinot is good!

Akitu, whose first vintage came in 2012, has been a complete pleasure to work with, and I am so thrilled with how well it has gone down. The 2016 vintage saw it become the first NZ red to win 3 trophies at the International Wine Challenge 2018, sweeping the board for “Best New Zealand Red”, “Best Central Otago and Wanaka Pinot Noir” and “Vest New Zealand Pinot Noir”. Do enjoy its outrageous drinkability, and I will look forward to hearing your comments.v

Julian Chamberlen

MEET THE GROWER

Akitu

CENTRAL OTAGO

Akitu is a wine we know very well, having worked with it since its inaugural vintage in 2012. With each year that passes it seems to ascend new heights, and I urge you to experience it! It is owned by a good mate of mine, whose commitment to the cause and love of wine is second to none. The meaning of Akitu in Maori is “summit,” and I think this is a very apposite reference to what is clearly one of the greatest wines to come out of this island. Uniquely the A1 Pinot 2016 won all three red wine medals awarded in New Zealand, yet owner Andrew Donaldson remains very modest, and with PJ his winemaker, is simply determined to keep on pushing for even greater heights. This year sees the release of a truly seductive and rare Pinot Noir Blanc. Extraordinary texture and charm. The A1 Pinot is aged 10 months in 24% new French oak, giving a gorgeous texture, and in the glass it positively brims with health and vitality. The nose is complex and engaging, yielding black cherry, raspberry, spice, and a tiny hint of vanilla pod. I have to say, the first tasting I had of it I was sure I was in Chambolle-Musigny! It is incredibly more-ish and the fresh acidity that underpins the perfectly ripe fruit means it is a natural with food and equally pretty damn easy to drink without - you don’t even have to remember your corkscrew as it is under Stelvin! It’s an honour to offer these extraordinary wines.

WA 93

POINTS

PINOT NOIR BLANC

AKITU, CENTRAL OTAGO 2019

DRINK 2020 - 2025

6x75 £149.61

Refined aromatics showing light berry sorbet lift and subtle dried herb notes. A mineral and slatey, floral perfume adding aromatic perfume and complexity. Abundant entry with texture and depth of flavour flowing to a refined and focused finish. Lacy acidity providing structure and persistence.

—PJ CHARTERIS

A1 PINOT NOIR

AKITU, CENTRAL OTAGO 2017

DRINK 2020 - 2030

6x75 £165.61

Vivid raspberry red colour. A dark cherry, strawberry spice, and raspberry nose - mid weight on the palate with a lovely fresh-ness, hint of clove and ripe healthy fruit, supple tannins leading to a clean and long finish. There is good acidity here too. To me it resembles 2015 but with a little more structure.

Akitu - three entries, three gold, eight trophies.

—IWC

WA 93

POINTS MEET THE GROWER

Giant Steps

YARRA VALLEY

I visited this impressive estate in the Yarra valley north of Melbourne in February 2018 and was struck by how superb the wines were. Phil Sexton of Devil’s Lair founded the estate in 1997 after looking for just this climate of cool nights and sufficient rainfall to produce Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of precision and finesse, and since then has been absolutely nailing it. The wines are fabulous, and from the estate Pinot Noir upwards you will be thrilled with them. Steve Flamstead is the winemaker and is well deserving of over 100 gold medals he has won in the last 17 years. Production is very small, with many cuvées numbering only a few hundred cases. The Yarra Pinot displays perfumed cherry alongside spicy, bitter orange notes and warming mocha and cocoa. It has vibrant red and blue fruits and a lovely underlying earthiness, with white mushrooms, truffles, savoury spice, and forest floor characters. An elegant wine with breadth, structure, and a long, luscious finish. Screw top too for easy access!

KEY FACTS

KEY GRAPES

Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Noir

KEY PRODUCERS

Penfold’s, Leeuwin, Rolf Binder, Giant Steps, Akitu, Kumeu River and Felton Road

PINOT NOIR

GIANT STEPS, YARRA VALLEY 2018

DRINK 2020 - 2026

6x75 £112

Deliciously juicy dark cherry fruit on the nose. A lovely healthy colour, some violet and spice too. The palate is medium weight, raspberry, earthy, super smooth and with a lovely acidity in support of the fruit. Lip-smacking and quite delicious.

PINOT NOIR, APPLEJACK VINEYARD

GIANT STEPS, YARRA VALLEY 2017

DRINK 2020 - 2030

6x75 £181.61

Medium to light red/purple hue, the aroma fusty, earthy, forest floor, a note of oak and a touch of humus. Very rich and ripe, almost opulent flavour with charming fruit sweetness and a succulent core. A delicious wine.

—HUON HOOKE

WA 89

POINTS HH 95

POINTS

South Africa

South Africa has a very long history of winemaking, dating back to 1659, so it follows that they know a thing or two about the mighty vine. Approximately 110,000 hectares are under vine, which equates to around 2% of the world’s vineyards. Most of the best wine is made in and around the Cape, with quality regions being Stellenbosch, Constantia and Paarl.

Stellenbosch is perhaps the most famous region outside of South Africa, with a focus on red wines, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends. You can find Farthinghoe favourite, Glenelly, tucked into the hills here. The French influence descends from the Huguenot colonists arrival in the 1690s, and Stellenbosch is now home to 1/5th of South Africa’s grape vines.

In Constantia, you have the excellent Klein Constantia, who produce a divine sweet wine, Vin de Constance, which is lovingly referred to as the “Yquem of the New World.” Klein Constantia as an estate has been about since the 17th century and has been making dessert wines since its purchase by Hendrik Cloete in 1778 – not a bad pedigree! The main focus in the region is on Bordeaux blends and Sauvignon Blanc, alongside the sweet wines based on Muscat Blanc.

To the east, the marginally cooler area of Walker Bay produces some good Burgundian influence Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. The maritime influence tempers the heat, and allows for a different style than seen in the rest of the Cape. For a wonderful Walker Bay Pinot, we like Hamilton Russell.

Stellenbosch within South Africa

Julian Chamberlen

RECIPE

Grilled Farmer Sausage with Pepper Relish

FOR THE SAUSAGES

• 8 boerewors or another spiced beef or pork grilling sausage (about 2 1/4 lb.) • 1 tbsp. olive oil • 8 hot dog buns, toasted if desired

FOR THE CHAKALAKA

• 3 tbsp. olive oil • 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped (2 cups) • Salt

• 1 each green, red, and yellow bell pepper, finely chopped (4 1/2 cups total) • 2 tbsp. mild curry powder • 2 green bird’s-eye chiles, minced (1 Tbsp.) • 2 large garlic cloves, minced • One 2-inch piece ginger, peeled and grated (2 Tbsp.) • 5 large carrots, scrubbed and coarsely grated (4 cups) • 1 3⁄4 cups canned diced tomatoes and their juices (14 oz.) • 2 tbsp. tomato paste • Leaves from 2 thyme sprigs • Freshly ground black pepper

METHOD

1. Prepare the sausages: On a large plate, rub the sausages with the oil. Let rest to dry out the casings slightly (this allows for a snappier texture once cooked), 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, make the chakalaka: In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and season with salt; cook, stirring, until translucent, 10 minutes. Stir in the bell peppers, curry powder, chiles, garlic, and half of the ginger; cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add the carrots, season with salt, and stir. Add the tomatoes and their juices, 1 cup water, and the tomato paste, stirring to combine. Lower the heat to medium and simmer until the vegetables have softened and the mixture has thickened slightly, about 15 minutes. Remove and stir in the thyme, the remaining ginger, and salt and pepper to taste.

3. Preheat the grill to medium heat. Add the sausages and cook, turning occasionally, until browned and no longer pink in the centers, 12–15 minutes (check sausages in one place to avoid juices escaping).

4. Place each sausage in a bun. Top with chakalaka and serve.

MEET THE GROWER Glenelly

STELLENBOSCH

We are really very pleased to work with Glenelly Estate, which was founded in 2003 on the lower slopes of the Simonsberg mountain by May de Lencquesaing, having sold her beloved Pichon Lalande. She saw in the land an opportunity to bring her expertise and passion to this blessed soil and the results are really excellent. The flagship red, Lady May, is a homage to her previous life, and alongside this are made a superb range of French varietals beginning with the Glass Collection and moving up to the Reserve wines. The reserve Chardonnay is a wonderful place to start with those. We have hosted a couple of Glenelly dinners, and another one ahead in October. Fun is assured!

SOUTH AFRICA

FAVOURITE PRODUCERS

Glenelly, Klein Constantia

CLASSIC GRAPE VARIETALS

Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Pinotage (indigenous), Merlot

AREA UNDER VINE

92,000ha

As someone privileged with more than his fair share of rare and expensive Grand Cru Burgundy and First Growths, I can unhesitatingly state that the best of South Africa punches at the same weight.

—NEAL MARTIN

GLENELLY LADY MAY CABERNET SAUVIGNON

GLENELLY 2012

DRINK 2019 - 2032

6x75 £145.61

This flagship wine from May de Lanquesaing, previously of Pichon Lalande, is exceptional. Smooth and sculpted blackcurrant fruit with superfine tannins achieved by 24 months of gentle ageing in French oak barrels. It is delightfully more-ish and demonstrates a deep understanding of this majestic grape.

GLENELLY ESTATE RESERVE CHARDONNAY

GLENELLY 2019

DRINK 2020 - 2026

6x75 £75.61

The reserve Chardonnay has a wonderful smoky buttery texture, with a fine mineral lift in support. if you like your white Burgundies, give this a whirl at a very modest price too.