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Issue 1

2026 • 1

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2 • 2026

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Canada’s Local Gardener | Volume 7, Issue 1 | 2026

Contents

50

44

24

40

Roots

Fascinating root vegetables.................................20 Respect the roots ....................................................24 The donut effect.......................................................26 Deep roots, shallow roots.....................................28 Do roots talk underground?.................................30 Root cellar revival.....................................................32

Beautiful Gardens

56 Plants

Beautiful bark.............................................................10 Gardening lore...........................................................12 Bergenia........................................................................14 Houseplants in winter.............................................. 16 Morning glories........................................................... 18

From snow to soil..................................................... 40 Beaulieu Gardens of Calgary............................... 44 Garden of Ewa and Waldemar Bocian, Winnipeg...................................................................50 Shauna’s Garden: Inspiration from Japan....... 56

Eco-friendly edible gardening.............................34

Seeds

Notebook........................................................................6

Regular items Editors note....................................................................4 Also considered for the cover................................5

Canadian seed catalogues.................................... 36 localgardener.net

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2026 • 3

!

EDITORS NOTE

Take the cover challenge survey

M

Follow us online www.localgardener.net Facebook: @CanadaLocalGardener Instagram: @local_gardener YouTube: @LocalGardenerLiving

Story by Shauna Dobbie

agazine covers are never simple. You may know the feeling you want to convey, but then comes the hunt for an image that fits.

It has to be vertical. It has to sit properly under the title. It has to leave room for the slugs, which are the short captions on the cover that help the issue stand out. What looks perfect on your screen can fall apart once it goes into the template. Sometimes the top disappears under the masthead. Sometimes the left edge is lost behind those slugs.

We debate this all the time in our office. Regular readers will be accustomed to the featurette we run on page 5 each issue, with the images that didn’t make the cut. Over time, the concept of what a cover should be becomes a blur for our small team.

This is why we would love your help. Please take our cover challenge survey. Your responses will guide future covers and give us a clearer sense of what speaks to readers.

You can reach the survey through the QR code at the bottom of this page or by visiting [www.surveymonkey.com/r/VDXBYTN]. It takes about 10 minutes and you can follow your progress as you go.

A printed version isn’t possible because the survey includes so many images, although a few of our readers prefer to stay computer-free. We respect that choice, but the online version is the only practical way to show everything.

If you enjoy looking at images and seeing what catches your eye, you may find the survey surprisingly fun. It’s a chance to vote with your instincts and tell us what makes a cover stop you in your tracks. O

Scan this QR Code to go directly to the survey! www.surveymonkey.com/r/VDXBYTN

Have you missed us? Have no fear - catch up on our recent back issues on our digital newstand at a reduced rate – including:

Digital Singles

Published by Pegasus Publications Inc. President Dorothy Dobbie dorothy@pegasuspublications.net Editor & Publisher Shauna Dobbie shauna@pegasuspublications.net Art Direction & Layout Karl Thomsen karl@pegasuspublications.net Contributors Ewa Bocian, Penelope Beaudrow, Steven Biggs, Darlene Chrapko, Dorothy Dobbie, Shauna Dobbie, Lawrence Eisler, David Johnson, Serena Mor, Jacqueline Sheen.

Editorial Advisory Board Greg Auton, John Barrett, Todd Boland, Darryl Cheng, Ben Cullen, Mario Doiron, Michel Gauthier, Mathieu Hodgson, Jan Pedersen, Stephanie Rose, Michael Rosen, Aldona Satterthwaite and Trudy Watt.

Print Advertising Gord Gage • 204-940-2701 gord.gage@pegasuspublications.net Marketing Manager Micaela Soto • 204-940-2702 micaela@pegasuspublications.net Subscriptions Write, email or call Canada’s Local Gardener, P.O. Box 47040, RPO Marion Winnipeg, MB R2H 3G9 Phone: 204-940-2700 info@pegasuspublications.net One year (four issues): $35.85 Two years (eight issues): $68.08 Three years (twelve issues): $98.40 Single copy: $12.95 Plus applicable taxes.

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department Pegasus Publications Inc. PO Box 47040, RPO Marion Winnipeg, MB R2H 3G9 Canadian Publications mail product agreement #40027604 Digital Sales Singles ISSN 2563-6391 [fan of many magazines] Purchase a single digital copy of any issue of Canada's Local Gardener Issues from 2 isIssue 4 four CANADA’S LOCALVolume GARDENER published times annually

by Pegasus Publications Inc. It is and on available regularly available to purchase at newsstands

Purchase a single digital copy of any issue of Canada’s Local Gardener from Volume 2 Issue 4 and up now available!

Scan the QR code or go to https://order.emags.com/ca_local_gardener_digital 4 • 2026

and retail locations throughout Canada or by subscription. Visa, and American Express accepted. Publisher buys all editorial rights and reserves the right to republish any material purchased. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited without permission in writing from the publisher.

Copyright Pegasus Publications Inc.

Issue 1

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Also considered for the cover

T

Cover 1

Cover 2

his issue, we really wanted to feature the garden of Ewa and Waldemar Bocian. Their beautiful garden in Winnipeg is truly spectacular.

I love Picture 1, with the small lit up tree – it just says “winter is coming” to me. Unfortunately, it does not say “buy this magazine”, which is, of course, what your cover is all about.

Picture 2 gives a good idea of the garden in summer, and I kind of like the big purple cleome that demands attention; they are like alien clowns and never fail to make me smile. I think the image was taken on one of the smoky days we had through the summer, though, and it really does not grab you.

Picture 3 is really lovely, with comfortably lolling flowers. The red cannas are blooming and the yellow rudbeckias look so healthy. This image was under real consideration when I gave up on Picture 1.

The picture we have gone with really displays the architectural qualities of the paving in the yard. I was wowed by the perfectly round circles and the interplay of gravel and pavers when I stepped into the back yard; Waldemar did a fantastic job. It’s a good photograph and I think it evokes appreciation of the effort that goes into hardscaping. O Do you like seeing which photos we were looking at for covers? Why not do our survey? Look on page 4 for details and give it a shot. It promises to be really fun!

Cover 3

Final cover

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Long-lasting. Custom sizes. Free samples.

Email: info@northerngreenhouse.com www.northerngreenhouse.com Ph: 204-327-5540 Fax: 204-327-5527 Box 1450 Altona, MB R0G 0B0 FLORABUNDA SEEDS Saving the Seeds of Our Past Heirloom Flowers, Vegetables, Herbs Wildflower Mixes - Unusual Varieties Non-GMO, Un-Treated Seeds www.florabundaseeds.com contact@florabundaseeds.com Ontario, Canada Cross Canada Shipping

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Issue 1

2026 • 5

NOTEBOOK

H

Forcing bulbs indoors

ave you ever thought about forcing a few bulbs for later in winter? It’s really easy, and when winter drags on, nothing lifts the spirits like a pot of tulips, daffodils or hyacinths on the windowsill.

Good candidates for forcing are spring-flowering bulbs that require a cold period. The most popular are tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocuses and grape hyacinth. Paperwhites and amaryllis can be forced without chilling, making them the easiest for beginners.

Choose firm, large bulbs for this project; bigger bulbs mean stronger flowers. Avoid any that are soft or mouldy.

Chilling period Most hardy bulbs need a cold period to mimic winter. In nature, this tells the bulb that spring is coming. To recreate this indoors, pot the bulbs in potting soil. Water lightly, then cover the pots with plastic bags that have a few holes and store them in a dark,

6 • 2026

cool place at about 4 to 9 Celsius: an unheated garage, cellar, or refrigerator works perfectly. But you can’t keep fruit nearby while chilling bulbs because ripening fruit gives off ethylene gas, which can damage them.

The chilling period should last about 12 to 16 weeks for tulips and daffodils, 10 to 12 weeks for hyacinths, and eight weeks for crocuses and grape hyacinths. Paperwhites and amaryllis skip this step entirely.

Bringing them out When the shoots are about 2 inches

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tall and roots have filled the pot, move the bulbs to a cool, bright spot to wake them up. A north-facing windowsill, a cool basement window, or an enclosed porch if it stays above freezing (mine does not) all work well. If the room is too warm, the stems grow long and floppy, so start them somewhere on the cool side for a week or two before moving them into normal household temperatures. Once buds appear, you can bring them into the living room to enjoy.

Say goodbye Sadly, the joy they bring is ephemeral. After blooming, discard forced bulbs of tulips and hyacinths; they rarely perform well again. You just won’t be able to provide enough light indoors for the foliage to store energy for another blooming period. Daffodils, crocuses, and grape hyacinths can sometimes be replanted outdoors after flowering if the foliage is left to die back naturally and the bulbs are allowed to rest through the summer. O

localgardener.net

NOTEBOOK

AI plant ID apps that work

Y

ou’re out in the garden and spot something new coming up. You don’t remember planting it. Is it a perennial you forgot, a weed on the march, or maybe a gift left by a bird? Instead of thumbing through books, snap a photo and ask your favourite app.

Artificial intelligence has changed how you can identify plants.

These apps compare your photo to millions of images online, then suggest likely matches. They’re not perfect, but they’re getting better every year. Here’s what works best.

PictureThis Fast, polished and easy to use.

PictureThis recognizes most common ornamentals and offers care tips once it has named them.

It’s good with cultivated plants and houseplants but sometimes it misses the mark: it may label any purple flower a verbena. The free version is limited to seven days, and the full one requires a pricey subscription (I paid $50 for a year).

But you do get some good stuff for your money.

The app recognized everything I threw at it, including a spent spray of my Clematis virginiana, which is impressive. But it is awfully quick to suggest plants have problems (pathogen infections, insect infestations) that are really not worth treating. And it offers “solutions” for these supposed problems that are not science-based or even, necessarily, a good idea.

Nonetheless, for identifying garden plants, it’s very good.

Google Lens You don’t even need a special app for this one; Google Lens is already part of most Android phones and available through the Google app on iPhones. Take a photo or point your camera, tap the little Lens icon, and it searches visually similar images from across the web. It’s quick, free and surprisingly good with familiar garden plants and trees because it draws on billions of online photos. It doesn’t show how confident it is, and it can mix up look-alikes, but it’s a handy first stop when curiosity strikes. localgardener.net

Story by Shauna Dobbie

I used this, often successfully, for the past couple of years.

Pl@ntNet Developed by botanists and volunteers, Pl@ntNet leans more toward wild plants. It’s accurate when you photograph clear details, especially leaves and flowers, and it lets you specify the region to narrow down results. Its database includes many North American species, making it a strong, no-cost option.

Seek by iNaturalist Seek is designed for explorers. It identifies plants, insects and fungi and awards “badges” as you find new species. Because it doesn’t share your location publicly, it’s good for privacy. It’s less polished for garden plants but great for learning about what’s growing beyond the fence.

Flora Incognita Made by scientists in Germany, Flora Incognita is straightforward,

Issue 1

free and free of ads. It performs well with native wildflowers and weeds but isn’t built for cultivars. If you like wandering through meadows and learning the names of what you see, this one’s ideal.

ObsIdentify Also from Europe, ObsIdentify is sleek and easy to use. It identifies wild plants, animals and fungi with a confidence score that tells you how sure it is. It excels with European species but struggles with North American ornamentals. Think of it as a companion for hikes, not the backyard border.

All these apps can help solve a garden mystery, but none are perfect. Take clear photos in good light, and if you get odd results, try a different app. PictureThis is best for cultivated plants; Pl@ntNet and Flora Incognita for native species; Seek and ObsIdentify for wild plants. O

2026 • 7

Miss an issue?

Back issues of are still available for $12.95 each (plus applicable sales tax)

Volume 6 Issue 3

Volume 6 Issue 4

The Vines issue

The Weeds and Wildflowers issue

Volume 6 Issue 1

Volume 6 Issue 2

The Do-it-yourself issue

The Indoor Gardening issue

Volume 5 Issue 3

Volume 5 Issue 4

The Pollinator issue

The Bulb issue

Volume 5 Issue 1

Volume 5 Issue 2

The Design issue

The Seed issue

You can call us directly to place your order at 204-940-2700 or mail in your order plus a cheque to P.O. Box 47040, RPO Marion, Winnipeg, MB R2H 3G9.

Digital single copies are available for purchase at $7.00 each at https://order.emags.com/ca_local_ gardener_digital How to figure out your tax rate: 15% – NB, NL, NS, & PEI; 13% – ON; 12% – MB; 5% – AB, BC, QC, SK, Yukon, Nunavut & NW Territories.

8 • 2026

NOTEBOOK

Did the gardening trend predictions of 2025 come true?

A

t every year end, garden writers looking for something to craft an article around will write about upcoming trends. For 2025, the idea was that after the pandemicera plant boom and a few years of wild weather, we would move toward looser, wilder, more sustainable landscapes. Now that the season has passed, it’s worth asking: did those forecasts take root?

The answer is mostly yes.

Native plants, once a niche interest, are finding their way into more garden centre displays and home landscapes.

Coneflowers, milkweed, native grasses and other hardy perennials suited to heat and drought are becoming familiar choices, but they still share bench space with the old favourites like petunias and geraniums. The look of gardens has relaxed too. Perfect rows and sheared edges are giving way to something softer, where seed heads stand through autumn and pollinators find a place to land. It’s not that everyone tore up their lawns, but many gardeners are re-imagining them: shrinking the expanse, planting more clover or prairie mixes, and letting a bit of wildness in.

Edible gardening continued its slow march into the mainstream, though not necessarily as vegetable rows behind the garage. Tomatoes, kale and herbs have crept into front yards and ornamental borders, where they blend surprisingly well with flowers. It turns out that a cabbage can be as decorative as a dahlia, and an edging of thyme smells better than a low boxwood hedge. This shift isn’t driven by food prices alone; it’s a sign that people see beauty in usefulness.

Predictions about water-wise planting came true almost by necessity.

With restrictions from Vancouver to Calgary and recurring hot and dry spells across the Prairies, gardeners had to think seriously about what survives on less. Drought-tolerant perennials like yarrow, Russian sage and ornamental grasses were highlighted in garden centre promos, and interest grew in gravel gardens, rain-capture systems and shade-tolerant design. The idea of Issue 1

“climate resilience” has stopped sounding abstract and become practical.

Composting, mulching and improving native soil feel like natural extensions of the environmental turn in gardening. Similarly, the shift to battery-powered tools gained ground this year. Homeowners are embracing quiet trimmers and mowers, though most professional crews still rely on gas for heavy work.

One prediction that didn’t quite hold up was the supposed decline of annuals. Far from disappearing, they’ve made a comeback. We still love their instant colour and versatility, and growers have responded with tougher, more climate-smart varieties: petunias that handle heat, impatiens resistant to downy mildew, and coleus that thrives in full sun. Instead of the old carpetbedding look, annuals are being used more thoughtfully, tucked among perennials or massed in containers for seasonal accents. Even pollinator gardeners have rediscovered them, with zinnias, cosmos and calendula planted as reliable sources of nectar.

If there’s a single thread through the season, it’s that gardeners are less swayed by fashion and more by what works in their own soil, light and time constraints. The forecasts for 2026 continue the same conversation, promising gardens that give back and spaces that support wildlife, handle heat, and still bring joy. There’s talk of “precision gardening”, where technology and better plant data guide decisions, and of lush, layered plantings that feel both abundant and alive. Whether or not those ideas take hold everywhere, most gardeners are already finding their balance between beauty and resilience, building landscapes that can weather whatever the next season brings. O localgardener.net

NOTEBOOK

Spotting fake flower photos online

T

Image from Etsy seller MegaCart9677 used for illustrative purposes under fair dealing.

his image isn’t a real flower.

It’s an AI-generated picture that has been used by online seed sellers to promote so-called “rare” or “exotic” plants. The glossy petals, perfect symmetry and unnatural red-white-blue colouring are all clues. Real morning glories never look like this, nor do any naturally bred flowers.

Images like this have become common on sites such as Etsy, eBay and Amazon, often attached to listings for impossible plants, like blue roses, rainbow chrysanthemums or striped sunflowers. The seeds usually turn out to be something ordinary, or sometimes nothing at all.

We’re showing it here to help gardeners recognize these fakes.

When buying seeds online, always check for credible sellers, realistic photos and botanical names. If it looks too spectacular to be true, it probably is. O

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Issue 1

2026 • 9

TREES

Beautiful bark Story by Shauna Dobbie

A paper birch forest.

I

n winter, when leaves are long gone and flowers just a memory, bark takes centre stage. Some trees turn stark white against snow, others glow red or yellow in low sunlight.

These trees add colour and texture to the landscape year-round, particularly when frost or a dusting of snow sets off their hues.

Paper birch (Betula papyrifera).

One of the most iconic northern trees, paper birch is hardy to Zone 2 and known for its chalk-white bark that peels in curls to reveal copper tones beneath. It thrives in cool, moist soil and pairs beautifully with evergreens for striking contrast. The bark brightens with age and light exposure.

River birch (Betula nigra). More at home in milder parts of the country (Zones 4 to 8), river birch offers curling bark in warm shades of salmon, pink and brown. It prefers damp soils and tolerates periodic flooding. In winter light, its cinnamon hues add warmth to any landscape. It is native to the Eastern US. Amur cherry (Prunus maackii).

Also known as the Manchurian cherry, 10 • 2026

this hardy Zone 2 tree is prized for its coppery-gold bark that shines as if lacquered. The bark peels in fine, glossy strips, revealing fresh bronze beneath. It grows quickly and withstands cold prairie winds, making it a popular choice in city plantings.

Red osier dogwood (Cornus sericea). Technically a shrub, this native species deserves mention for its fiery red bark that intensifies in winter.

Cut back every few years to encourage new growth, as younger stems show the most vivid colour. It is hardy to Zone 2 and thrives in moist ditches and along streambanks.

Yellow twig dogwood (Cornus sericea flaviramea). A cousin to the red osier, this form offers golden stems that catch low sunlight beautifully against snow. Plant both red and yellow forms together for a glowing winter display.

Japanese maple ‘Sango Kaku’ (Acer palmatum). Known as coral bark maple, this tree offers brilliant red bark that brightens in cold weather. It’s hardy to about Zone 5, suitable for sheltered gardens or urban microIssue 1

climates. The bark’s colour deepens in contrast to its delicate green leaves.

‘Sango Kaku’ is a favourite, but there are a few other Japanese maples with colourful bark.

Tibetan cherry (Prunus serrula).

For those in Zones 5 to 9, this cherry’s deep mahogany bark is polished and ringed with horizontal lenticels.

It looks especially striking after rain or when lit by winter sun. A small ornamental tree, it’s often grown just for this bark.

Mountain ash (Sorbus decora).

Native to eastern Canada and hardy to Zone 2, mountain ash offers smooth grey bark that glows silver in snowlight, and its clusters of red-orange fruit add further colour. The bark develops fine patterns with age.

Choosing and showcasing bark colour The best bark colour appears on young wood, especially in bright light.

Pruning to renew growth, planting against dark backgrounds, and positioning trees where low winter sun can strike the trunk all heighten the effect. O localgardener.net

Red osier dogwood.

Photos courtesy of Monrovia; photo by Doreen Wynja.

Photo by Gerd Eichmann.

Photo courtesy of Proven Winners.

Photo courtesy of the Plant Image Library.

River birch.

Young Amur cherry.

Yellow twig dogwood.

Tibetan cherry.

Japanese maple ‘Sango Kaku’.

localgardener.net

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Mountain ash.

2026 • 11

Photo by Katja Schulz.

GARDEN IQ

Gardening lore: true or false?

Untrue

Plant by the moon The belief is that lunar phases influence plant growth, with seeds sown during certain moon stages said to germinate better. While the moon affects tides and even groundwater levels slightly, controlled studies have found no consistent link between moon phases and plant success. It remains an attractive but unproven idea.

True-ish

Nothing grows under a walnut tree This one is true. Black walnut trees release a compound called juglone through their roots and fallen leaves. Research confirms that juglone inhibits the growth of many plants, including tomatoes, peppers and azaleas. Some grasses and native species, however, tolerate it well.

False

Add gravel to the bottom of pots The usual claim is that a gravel layer improves drainage. Soil physics research shows the opposite: when two materials of different particle size meet, water tends to sit above the coarse layer rather than flow through it. A pot drains best when filled entirely with well-structured soil or potting mix and a hole at the base.

Somewhat false

Stake every new tree Staking is thought to keep trees stable and help them grow straight. Experiments by arboriculture researchers show that trees allowed slight movement in the wind develop thicker trunks and stronger root systems. Staking is helpful only in very windy locations or with top-heavy transplants, and the supports should be removed within a year.

Usually false

Epsom salts boost growth Gardeners use Epsom salts to encourage greener leaves and prevent blossom end rot. Studies show that adding magnesium can benefit soils that are deficient, but most garden soils are not. Excess magnesium interferes with calcium uptake and harms soil structure. Only use Epsom salts if a soil test has shown your garden is deficient in magnesium.

False

Crushed eggshells feed plants and stop slugs Eggshells contain calcium carbonate, so they are expected to enrich soil and repel slugs. In practice, shells break down extremely slowly and have negligible impact on soil nutrients. Tests also show that slugs easily crawl across them. Grind up the shells and add them to your compost instead.

12 • 2026

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localgardener.net

False

Banana peels are perfect fertilizer Banana peels are said to be rich in potassium and great for feeding roses or tomatoes. While they do contain potassium and small amounts of phosphorus, decomposition in the soil is slow and can attract pests. Laboratory tests show nutrient release takes weeks or months. Composting the peels first makes their nutrients more available.

False

Aspirin helps plants resist disease This idea stems from the fact that aspirin contains salicylic acid, which is a compound involved in plant defence signalling. Some controlled trials have shown small improvements in disease resistance when plants are treated with dilute solutions, but results are inconsistent and concentration is difficult to control. It’s a promising but unreliable practice.

False

Water on leaves causes sunscald It’s often said that droplets of water act like magnifying glasses, burning foliage in sunlight. Studies of leaf surface temperatures and light refraction show this does not occur under normal conditions. Leaf scorch after watering is caused by heat, drought stress or fungal infection, not sunlight through droplets.

True, but…

Vinegar kills weeds The acetic acid in vinegar burns plant tissue, so it is used as a household weed killer. Trials by agricultural extension services show that regular household vinegar (5 percent acetic acid) kills only the tops of weeds, not the roots. Stronger horticultural vinegar (10 to 20 percent) is more effective but still requires repeated application and care in use. It also kills everything, not just weeds.

False

Coffee grounds acidify soil Used coffee grounds are often spread around acid-loving plants. Chemical analysis shows that spent grounds are nearly neutral in pH. They add organic matter but can form a crust that repels water if applied thickly. Their best use is as part of a compost mix rather than a soil amendment on their own.

False

Talking to plants helps them grow The idea is that plants respond positively to human voices. Experiments have shown that sound vibrations at certain frequencies can slightly influence growth, but words or emotions make no difference. The effect is small and inconsistent, though harmless.

False

Bury a rusty nail for blue hydrangeas Rusty nails are thought to deepen hydrangea colour by adding iron. The blue hue of hydrangeas depends on soil pH and the presence of aluminum, not iron.

Lowering pH with products such as aluminum sulphate achieves the desired colour change; the rusty nail will not.

True

Rainwater is best for plants Rainwater is believed to be gentler than tap water. Studies confirm that in many areas, rainwater is ideal: it contains no chlorine or fluoride and often matches the natural acidity of garden soils. And rain combined with lightning adds fixed nitrogen to the soil too!

localgardener.net

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2026 • 13

FLOWERS

Bergenia Story by Shauna Dobbie, photos by Dorothy Dobbie

Bergenia are hardy plants that survive down to Zone 3.

B

ergenia brings colour when you need it most: its coarse evergreen leaves sit low and steady through winter, turning deep shades of claret and plum as the temperature drops. Come spring, upright stalks rise with clusters of bright pink or white flowers that make the plant feel like a surprise after months of snow.

This genus comes from regions of central Asia where winters are 14 • 2026

long and cold. That background means the plant is naturally adapted to freeze–thaw cycles and heavy soils. Most cultivars sold in Canada handle Zone 3 conditions comfortably once established.

The plant forms a clumping crown with short, thick rhizomes running just below the soil. These rhizomes anchor the plant well and slowly expand the clump. The root system is shallow but sturdy, Issue 1

making the plant easy to lift and divide. Bergenia grows best in soil that drains well but still holds some moisture. It appreciates moisture but resents waterlogging.

Work a shallow layer of compost into the top inch or two to loosen heavy clay. A bit of fine bark or leaf mould helps keep the soil open and improves structure over time. Avoid overdoing amendments because soil that stays too soft or wet through localgardener.net

Bergenia foliage.

winter can lead to rot. The aim is simply a firm, crumbly soil that never turns soggy.

Bergenia is happiest in part shade with protection from intense afternoon sun. In colder regions it can also grow in full sun, which encourages deeper winter leaf colour. It sits well at the front of borders, beside paths and near rocks where its broad leaves create a strong contrast with finer plants such as ferns and sedges.

Care through the seasons Remove winter-burned leaves in early spring before new growth starts to push. Feed with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer or add compost once a year. Water during long dry spells; otherwise, it is low maintenance. Divide every three to five years to refresh the clump and maintain flowering.

Bergenia is generally trouble free.

Slugs may chew the leaves in damp weather. Leaf spot can show up in humid stretches but seldom harms the plant. Good spacing and air movement keep foliage clean.

Notable cultivars ‘Bressingham Ruby’ has vivid flower heads and excellent winter leaf colour. ‘Winterglut’ is valued for large, rich pink blooms. ‘Dragonfly Angel Kiss’ offers soft white flowers that age to pink. Most cultivars share the same hardy temperament. O localgardener.net

Bergenia in bloom.

At a glance Light. Full sun to part shade Soil type. Prefers loam but handles clay well Soil pH. Neutral to slightly alkaline Moisture. Even moisture; tolerates short dry spells once established Height. 12 to 18 inches Width. 18 to 24 inches Hardiness. Generally hardy to Zone 3

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Bloom period. Early spring Seasonal interest. Evergreen foliage turns reddish in winter Growth rate. Slow to moderate Maintenance level. Low Pollinators. Attracts early pollinators Deer. Foliage is usually avoided by deer Lifespan. Long-lived perennial

2026 • 15

HOUSEPLANTS

Houseplants in winter Surviving a dark desert Story by Shauna Dobbie

W

hen it comes to caring for houseplants in the winter, you need to know three things: water less, cut fertilizer and move them to a brighter space in your home. The two biggest problems faced by your plant babies are low light and dry air, both far removed from what most houseplants evolved to handle.

Light levels drop dramatically Even in front of a bright southfacing window, winter light is a fraction of what plants receive in summer.

Indoors, light levels near a sunny window in June can reach 20,000 to 30,000 lux, depending on window size and direction. By December, the same spot might measure only 5,000 to 10,000 lux, about one quarter of summer intensity. A north-facing window may drop as low as 500 to 16 • 2026

2,000 lux in midwinter. Most tropical plants need at least 3,000 lux to keep growing well.

Glass, insulation coatings, and short days all take their toll. A double-pane window cuts visible light by about 15 to 25 percent; add a sheer curtain and you lose up to half again. With the sun lower in the sky, its rays strike at a shallow angle and rarely penetrate deeply into a room. To a plant from the rainforest understory, this dimness signals the dry season, when growth slows or stops.

Of course, most houseplants can’t handle a south-facing window and direct sun. Succulents, cacti, jade plants, and citrus thrive there in winter, though, soaking up the strong light. Thin-leaved species such as ferns, peace lilies, and calatheas, however, can Issue 1

scorch or bleach if left in direct sun. For them, sheer curtains or a spot 18 inches back from the glass offers a balance.

Indoor air turns desert-dry Humidity in heated homes often drops below 20 percent in winter, which is similar to a desert. Most tropical houseplants, by contrast, come from regions where the air hovers between 60 and 90 percent humidity year-round. Low humidity pulls moisture from leaves faster than roots can replace it, leading to brown edges and leaf drop. Combine that with dry soil and it’s no wonder plants are stressed

by February.

How to help them cope Move plants as close to windows as they can safely go without touching cold glass. The light intensity doubles or triples within 18 inches of a bright localgardener.net

Peace lily.

African violet.

Spider plant.

window compared to at the centre of the room. Clean dust from leaves to let every photon of light in. If you can, use an inexpensive LED grow-light for 10 to 12 hours a day to make up for the short daylight and make sure it’s very close to the plant.

To counteract dry air, group plants together or set them on shallow trays of water and pebbles; this can raise humidity as much as 10 percent right

above the tray. Running a humidifier nearby is even better, though it will only get the humidity up to 55 or 60 percent. Avoid placing plants near forced-air heating vents, which blow warm, moisture-robbing air.

Spring signals recovery As daylight lengthens and humidity naturally improves, plants begin to recover. That’s when you can resume normal watering and start light feed-

ing again. Through winter, the goal isn’t lush growth, it’s keeping your plants alive and steady until conditions improve.

In nature, tropical plants never face such extremes: the dimmest rainforest day is way brighter and moister than an Edmonton living room in January. But your favourite plants will do their best to tough it out with a little of the right love from you. O

How much light does a plant need?

Plant

Preferred light level (lux)

Notes

Snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata)

500–2,000

Very tolerant of low light but grows faster and stronger above 1,000 lux.

ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia)

500–2,000

Survives in dim corners; brighter light deepens leaf colour.

Peace lily (Spathiphyllum)

1,500–3,000

Prefers bright, indirect light; direct sun may scorch leaves.

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)

1,000–3,000

Medium light keeps variegation vivid; low light slows growth.

Philodendron (heart-leaf type)

1,000–3,000

Adapts easily; thrives in steady, filtered light.

Monstera (Monstera deliciosa)

2,000–5,000

Likes bright, indirect light; too little results in small, uncut leaves, while direct sun can scorch them.

Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum)

2,000–4,000

Bright, indirect light encourages healthy shoots and striping.

Fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata)

5,000–10,000

Needs a bright window and consistent light; dislikes being moved.

Succulents (like jade, echeveria)

10,000–20,000

Require intense, direct light from a south or west-facing window.

Ferns (Boston, maidenhair)

1,000–2,000

Soft, filtered light with high humidity prevents leaf crisping.

African violet (Saintpaulia)

2,000–4,000

Bright but indirect light produces blooms; avoid hot midday sun.

Y

ou can figure out the lux in a particular space with a smart phone light meter. Measure it during different times of day on different days to calculate the average.

These numbers aren’t precise localgardener.net

scientific conversions, because true light measurement depends on spectrum and angle as well as intensity.

But for everyday indoor gardening, lux readings are close enough to guide you. You don’t need lab Issue 1

instruments, just a consistent way to compare brightness from one location to another and a sense of whether your plants are getting enough energy to stay healthy through the winter.

2026 • 17

FLOWERS

Morning glories Twining summer treasures Story by Shauna Dobbie

One of ‘Venice Mix’.

M

orning glories are among the most cheerful vines you can grow, unfurling trumpet-shaped flowers each morning in shades of blue, purple, pink, and white. Their delicacy hides a rugged adaptability, though how easily they grow depends on where in Canada you garden.

In the genus Ipomoea, they come from tropical and subtropical regions, so they thrive on warmth and sunlight. They are tender annuals in Canada, though they can self-sow in the milder areas of southern Ontario and coastal BC. I planted the cultivar ‘Grandpa Ott’ many years ago in my Toronto garden and I bet a handful continue to come up each year. While the plant is not hardy as a perennial, the seeds of some varieties have no trouble.

Across the Prairies, the growing season is shorter and cooler, and spring soil takes longer to warm. Morning glory seeds can rot in cold ground or fail to germinate if planted too early. Starting them indoors four to six weeks before the last frost gives them a head start. Scarifying the seeds (rubbing lightly with sandpaper or soaking 18 • 2026

‘Heavenly Blue’.

overnight) also helps speed germination. Once planted outside, they need consistent sun and well-drained soil.

Prairie gardeners can still enjoy them, but they’re a bit of a labour of love.

In the Maritimes, morning glories perform well as long as they have full sun. The oceanic influence means cooler nights, but summers are humid and warm enough for reliable flowering. They may self-sow along fences and arbors in sheltered spots, especially in coastal New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.

Choosing varieties You’ll have no trouble finding seeds for a couple of varieties of morning glories in Canada. For some others, you may have to search further afield, but all those listed on the following page are available within the country at the time of publication.

Encouraging blooms Morning glories bloom best in poor soil and with minimal fertilizer. Too much nitrogen promotes leaf growth at the expense of flowers. Give them a support to climb and they will twine readily around string, trellis, or wire.

Issue 1

localgardener.net

LATIN NAME

VARIETY/SERIES

COLOUR DESCRIPTION

NOTES

Ipomoea purpurea

‘Grandpa Ott’s’

Royal purple with magenta star and pale throat

Heirloom. Vigorous. Freely self sows.

Ipomoea purpurea

‘Dacapo Light Blue’

Pale sky blue with purple veining and white throat

Early to bloom for a purpurea.

Ipomoea purpurea

‘Milky Way’

White with fine purple speckling and star

Reliable, long season.

Ipomoea purpurea

Mixed colours

Mix of purples, pinks, whites

Easiest entry point.

Ipomoea tricolor

‘Heavenly Blue’

Large, intense sky blue, fading toward centre

Classic tricolor. Likes heat.

Ipomoea tricolor

‘Pearly Gates’

Large pure white

Good foil for blue forms.

Blue and white marbled, each bloom unique Striped and bicolour forms in a mix

Ipomoea tricolor

‘Flying Saucers’

Ipomoea purpurea blend

Venice Mix

Ipomoea imperialis

Sunrise Serenade

Beautiful frilly bloom in rose

Double flowers!

Ipomoea alba

Moonflower

Very large white, night blooming, fragrant

Attracts moths.

Ipomoea × sloteri

Cardinal climber

Scarlet red tubular flowers with white throat

Hybrid. Finely cut foliage.

Hummingbird favourite.

Ipomoea quamoclit

Cypress vine, white

Starry white flowers on ferny foliage

Delicate look. Good for trellises.

Ipomoea purpurea

‘Cameo Elegance’

Rose-violet blooms with white throats and variegated foliage.

Available at William Dam Seeds and American Tatakii.

Once established, they’re remarkably drought-tolerant, though regular watering helps them flower longer.

Each individual flower lasts only about one day. It opens in the early morning and begins to fade by midafternoon, closing and expired by evening. The blooms are very responsive to light and temperature: on cool or overcast days they may stay open longer, sometimes into the next morning, but in bright sun they usually wither within hours.

The short life of each blossom doesn’t mean the display is brief, though. The vines produce buds continuously, so while each flower is fleeting, new ones open daily through the growing season. Well-watered plants can remain in bloom for several weeks to months, depending

B

Sometimes sold as Venezia mix.

on the variety and region.

Self-sowing and control In the right conditions, the I. purpurea cultivars will reseed with abandon in an area that is warm enough. I. tricolor is a little less likely to reseed. Cardinal climber and Cypress vine probably won’t reseed even in mild areas, but they may surprise you. And with I. alba, it is very unlikely that seeds on the plant will mature before the frost comes, so they won’t self-sow at all.

If you really don’t want to see any morning glories in the future, it is easy to remove the seed pods before they turn brown and papery. And if you miss one, just rip the plant out when you see it next year. Morning glories won’t argue with you. O

Know your enemy: bindweed

indweed refers to two closely related perennials: field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis) and hedge bindweed (Calystegia sepium). Both are members of the same family as morning glories but behave more like underground invaders than cheerful annual vines.

A lot of people mistake these plants for morning glory, but they are very different plant and you don’t want either in your garden.

Yes, hedge bindweed is native; in fact, it’s native across southern Canada from coast to coast. But it is one of those rare natives that is noxious and invasive. It can choke out surrounding plants and it is extremely difficult to control.

Both bindweed vines look deceplocalgardener.net

Showy streaked strain.

tively delicate, twining around fences and plants with arrow-shaped leaves and white or pale pink trumpet flowers. Unlike morning glories, their flowers are smaller and often lack the vivid colours and variety. The biggest giveaway is their persistence: while morning glories die with frost, bindweed reappears every spring from the same deep, creeping roots.

How it spreads Bindweeds have extensive root systems that can reach several feet deep and spread laterally underground. Even a tiny root fragment can produce a new plant. They also produce seeds that remain viable in the soil for decades, making them almost impossible to eradicate once established.

Issue 1

Control Digging rarely works because any missed roots regenerate. Smothering with thick mulch or landscape fabric can weaken a plant over time, but persistence is key. Some gardeners use repeated cutting or spot treatments with herbicide to exhaust the roots. The best defence is early detection: pull it out as soon as it appears and never let it flower or set seed.

Bottom line Bindweeds aren’t misunderstood wildflowers; both kinds are relentless perennial weeds. Know the difference before planting morning glories, and if you find bindweed creeping into your garden, act quickly. Once it’s in, it plans to stay.

2026 • 19

ROOTS

Fascinating root vegetables Story by Shauna Dobbie

Carrots.

R

oot vegetables are all plant organs adapted to store energy, usually in the form of carbohydrates such as starch or sugars. These storage organs exist to sustain the plant through dormancy and regrowth, and we take advantage of that by harvesting them before they regrow.

Because they grow beneath the soil, root vegetables tend to share several characteristics. They are rich in complex carbohydrates and fibre, drawing minerals from the soil that make them valuable sources of potassium, magnesium and trace elements. Their flavours – with the exception of radishes – deepen as the weather cools and starches convert to sugars, and they keep well in cool, dark, humid conditions. Their storability made them a cornerstone of the winter diet.

Carrot (Daucus carota sativus). Carrots were originally purple or yellow, and their orange pigment, betacarotene, is the very compound that gave its name to vitamin A’s group of precursors, the carotenoids.

20 • 2026

Carrots have tiny seeds, so you may purchase them as tape or in pelleted form to make it easier to control. The seedling’s first root, which becomes the carrot, must push straight down. If the subsoil is compacted or full of stones, the taproot forks, twists or becomes stunted.

This is why loose, deep, stone-free soil matters more for carrots than for almost any other vegetable. Some gardeners sow a few quick-growing radish seeds in the same row to mark it and help break the surface crust as they sprout. Once the carrots are up, the radishes can be pulled and eaten while the carrots continue to develop.

Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa). Once more popular than carrots, parsnips were a major staple in Europe before the arrival of the potato. Their starches convert to sugars after frost, giving them a uniquely sweet, nutty flavour that no other vegetable quite matches.

Parsnip seed is unusually short-lived. Even under ideal storage, it loses most of its viability after a single year.

Gardeners who try to use last season’s seed often get Issue 1

localgardener.net

Photo by Jean Weber.

Parsnips.

spotty germination or none at all. For that reason, it’s best to buy or collect fresh seed each spring.

The seed also takes its time to sprout – often three weeks or more in cool soil. You really shouldn’t start them (or most root vegetables) indoors, either. Just be patient and trust that they will sprout.

Beet (Beta vulgaris). Beets are dual-purpose: you can eat the roots and the greens. Don’t take too many greens, though, if you’re hoping for roots. Just take one or two outer leaves per plant. Leave the centre rosette intact to support the root growth.

Their deep red pigment, betanin, is used as a natural food dye and is one of the few red colourants that withstand heat. It has been used at least since the Roman era

to dye things and was used during the Middle Ages as a cosmetic for lips and cheeks. Today the dye is used in foods. It’s listed as E162 on ingredient labels.

Here’s something you need to know when you plant beets: what we call a beet seed is actually a seed cluster, a woody capsule formed from the plant’s seed head, containing two to six true seeds fused together. When you plant one “seed”, several seedlings often sprout side by side. This is why thinning is essential for beets.

Modern breeding has produced a few monogerm varieties, such as ‘Moneta’ and ‘Solo’, which contain only one embryo per seed cluster. These are popular for mechanical sowing and for gardeners who dislike thinning, but most traditional beet seed remains multigerm.

Beetroots. localgardener.net

Issue 1

2026 • 21

Photo by thebittenword-com.

Photo by Mike Mozart.

Turnips.

Potatoes.

Rutabagas.

Turnip (Brassica rapa rapa). Before potatoes spread across Europe, turnips were a main winter food.

They were once considered peasant food, but selective breeding has produced tender, mild baby turnips now favoured in fine dining.

What’s unusual is that turnips tolerate and even thrive in slightly heavier, moist soil, where carrots or parsnips would deform. Their broad, bulbous roots push up through the soil surface, showing their shoulders as they swell. If the upper portion is exposed to sunlight for long, it can turn green or purple, so you might want to pull a bit of soil over the tops as they grow. The coloured shoulders aren’t toxic, but they can taste a little bitter and be woody.

Rutabaga (Brassica napobrassica). A cross between cabbage and turnip, rutabagas are hardy and long-storing. They are common in northern climates because they tolerate cold and even improve in flavour after a frost. Many root crops sweeten with cold, but rutabagas take this to an extreme.

Rutabagas love long days of 14 or more hours sunlight, making them the perfect vegetable for northern climes. Without the long days, they won’t develop that firm, round root.

They can store for months after harvesting, but they need to be protected from drying out. At the grocery store, they are almost always coated with a thin film of paraffin wax. At home, you can cure them for a week 22 • 2026

or two at around 10 Celsius, then store them in a cool place – a fridge is ideal, if you have space – in a bin of damp sand, sawdust or peat moss.

Potato (Solanum tuberosum). Few crops have shaped history like the potato. In Ireland during the 18th and early 19th centuries, it was so productive and sustaining that many rural families lived on almost nothing else. The potato famine of the 1840s revealed both the crop’s power and its peril; when blight struck, a whole nation’s food source failed.

For gardeners, potatoes remain one of the most reliable staples. They grow in cool conditions, thrive in nearly any soil, and are best planted as soon as the ground can be worked in spring. As the plants grow, the baby potatoes push up to the soil surface; you need to keep the developing tubers covered by drawing soil up around the stems. Any exposure to sunlight turns the skins green and bitter from solanine, which is mildly toxic.

Steady moisture and loose soil help form smooth, evenly sized potatoes. Harvest for new potatoes in about 70 days and keep them growing for around 100 days if you want to store them. Once the vines die back, let the tubers cure for a week or two in a dry, shaded spot, then store them in a dark, humid place around 4 Celsius. Properly handled, they’ll keep well into spring.

Radish (Raphanus sativus). Fast-growing and crisp, radishes are often the first vegetable harvested in Issue 1

localgardener.net

Jerusalem artichokes.

Celeraic roots.

Radishes.

spring. Some varieties, like the Japanese daikon, can grow over 14 inches long. The pungent flavour comes from mustard oils released when chewed.

Sometimes the pungent flavour gets too hot, usually if they’re grown in weather above 27 Celsius. The roots will also turn woody and they may end up hollow at the centre. And unlike other root vegetables, radishes get hotter and not sweeter if you leave them in the ground after the optimum time.

If you live in an area that gets very hot days in the summer, plant quick-to-mature varieties in spring like ‘Cherry Belle’ or ‘Sparkler’, which can be ready to harvest in 25 to 35 days. If the temperature rarely goes above 25 Celsius in your area, you can plant daikons and black radishes, which need up to 80 days to harvest.

Celeriac (Apium graveolens rapaceum). A variation on celery, celeriac is grown for the bulbous hypocotyl at the base of the stem, partially underground. Though it looks gnarled, this vegetable has a delicate celery-parsley flavour that is particularly prized in French cuisine. It has some special requirements to grow, and those who love it will put in the effort for the depth of flavour.

It is a cool-season vegetable that has a long growing period of typically 110 to 130 days. Start it indoors, where it will germinate slowly and unevenly. Harden off and plant it while it is still cool but when the soil has warmed a bit. localgardener.net

Make sure you keep the plant watered well; any drought will cause small, fibrous roots. You may want to remove the lower leaves later in the season to get more light at the bulbous part. Harvest in late autumn before a hard freeze and store it in the fridge or in a place around 2 Celsius. Celeriac should keep for months.

Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus). This native plant is often grown for its tall sunny flowers, but the crisp, knobby underground tubers are perfectly edible and have a nutty, slightly sweet flavour. Also known as sunchokes, it has been cultivated by Indigenous peoples for centuries.

Instead of starch, Jerusalem artichokes store energy as inulin, a carbohydrate humans can’t fully digest.

(Onions, leeks and shallots are also high in inulin.) That makes them low in calories but sometimes causes gas or bloating. Boiling or roasting them helps break down some of that inulin, making them easier to tolerate.

There are a couple of things to know before you plant Jerusalem artichokes. They are a perennial that will survive to Zone 3 or 4. If you don’t harvest them, they will multiply rapidly. Many gardeners plant them in a separate bed that can be dug freely each year.

Other than that, plant the tubers in full sun in the spring about 4 inches deep and 12 to 18 inches apart. They tolerate poor soil but appreciate steady moisture. O Issue 1

2026 • 23

ROOTS

Respect the roots Story by Shauna Dobbie

The best option in dealing with tree roots is in planting trees a sensible distance from buildings and underground pipes.

T

ree roots don’t usually break foundations outright, but they can cause serious trouble over time through indirect pressure and soil movement. Here’s what really happens.

Moisture and soil shrinkage Roots draw water from the soil, and in clay soils, this can make the ground shrink and settle unevenly.

That’s often the biggest culprit. When the soil under one side of a foundation dries out and contracts, it can cause cracking or tilting. When moisture returns, the soil swells again, which worsens the damage over repeated cycles.

Physical pressure Roots don’t have the strength to bore through concrete, but they’ll exploit any weakness. If there’s already a small crack or a gap under the footing, roots will grow into it because it’s moist and sheltered. As the root thickens, it can widen the crack. This tends to happen with older, lightly built foundations or shallow footings rather than modern ones.

24 • 2026

Surface structures and utilities Tree roots often cause more harm to driveways, sidewalks, patios, and underground pipes than to a house foundation. As roots thicken near the surface, they can lift paving or break drain lines, which in turn can lead to water pooling against a foundation – an indirect but serious threat.

Prevention and mitigation The best defence is choosing the right tree for the site and keeping a sensible distance from buildings – usually one to one and a half times the expected mature height of the tree. For existing trees, root barriers and careful pruning (done by an arborist) can control spread. Consistent watering near foundations in dry spells can also help reduce soil shrinkage in clay areas.

So, the short version: roots don’t smash foundations, but they can dry out and shift the soil that supports them. Most of the real damage starts with soil movement, not brute root force. O Issue 1

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2026 • 25

ROOTS

The donut effect

Dividing the roots of clumping perennials Story by Shauna Dobbie

Dividing perennials is good for the plant’s health and your pocketbook.

M

any gardeners wonder why some of their perennials, after a couple of years, start behaving differently. It’s what I call the donut effect: the centre dies down and the surrounding flowers lean outward.

It looks like a big fat cat has sat in the middle of your plant, but it is a sign that a perennial has aged enough to exhaust its centre and push all its energy outward.

Clump-forming perennials, like Shasta daisies, coneflowers and catmint, expand by producing new shoots around the crown each year.

The crown is where the roots and stems meet, and when the plant is young, it’s dense with living tissue. Over time, 26 • 2026

the oldest parts in the centre grow woody and coarse. The root tissue thickens and loses its ability to take up water and nutrients efficiently. Oxygen movement through the soil decreases as living roots are replaced by dead ones.

Gradually, that central mass dies, leaving only tough remnants surrounded by fresh, active roots on the perimeter.

This happens because perennial roots are built for longevity, not turnover.

Their dense, fibrous structure resists decay and remains in place even after the tissue has died. The younger part of the plant has no way to reclaim that space, so it simply grows around it. The hollow centre you see above ground is a reflection of what’s happening at the Issue 1

root level.

Why the plant flops outward Once the central crown is gone, the plant’s architecture changes. Each year’s new shoots now emerge from the outer rim, where the soil is loose and rich. Their bases are slightly angled outward, and there’s no inner living mass to brace them. When the stems lengthen and bloom, gravity and rain pull them down. The clump spreads out like a wheel that has lost its hub.

Shasta daisies, rudbeckia, monarda, and nepeta are especially prone to this collapse.

Division is your way of mimicking nature’s disturbances, like frost, animal digging or drought, that would localgardener.net

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normally break up old clumps in the wild. Lifting and splitting the plant discards the dead core and resets the geometry. Each new division has a fresh, living centre, surrounded by young roots that can absorb water and nutrients freely. Once replanted, the stems grow upright again, supported by a solid root mass that isn’t dead in the middle.

How to divide For most clump-formers, dividing every two to three years is enough. Do it in early spring when the first green shoots appear, or in early autumn while the soil is still warm. Lift the clump with a fork, shake off the soil, cut it into vigorous sections, and replant the outer pieces. Water well and mulch lightly.

Shasta daisies are the classic example,

but the same process affects asters, bee balm, garden phlox, blanket flowers and black-eyed Susans. Even ornamental grasses like miscanthus can develop a dead centre over time. In each case, the underlying cause is the same: ageing root tissue that has stopped functioning and a plant that naturally grows away from decline.

Ignoring the donut effect means weaker bloom and less vigourous growth, which invites disease. Dividing, on the other hand, rejuvenates the plant, fills the space again, and often yields extra clumps to share.

It’s a simple task that restores not just the look of the plant but its physiology, re-establishing a living, breathing core that can support years of new growth. O

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Issue 1

2026 • 27

ROOTS

Deep roots, shallow roots Story by Shauna Dobbie

C

anadians – on the Prairies at least – often admire plants that put down “good, deep roots”. It’s a sign of strength and staying power, a compliment to the plant’s tenacity in wind and drought. But roots grow to match their environment. Some are deep to find hidden water; others are shallow because that’s where life is easiest, and they don’t need to put the energy into deep roots.

Deep roots for endurance Growing extra-long roots takes energy for a plant.

Prairie plants such as alfalfa, leadplant and compass plant can push roots 10 to 15 feet deep under ideal conditions. Among vegetables, asparagus relies on taproots that explore far beneath the topsoil. Bur oaks too; a first-year sapling can have a taproot that is 14 feet long. These plants can find water far underground.

Deep roots can act like plumbing for the soil. They open channels that let water and air move downward, improving structure for everything growing nearby.

In native ecosystems, they stabilize slopes, hold soil against erosion, and draw minerals from depths that shallow-rooted plants can’t reach. When deep-rooted plants shed leaves and stems, or when fine roots die back each year, those minerals are recycled at the surface through natural decay, gradually enriching the upper soil layers.

The downside is that deep-rooted species struggle in saturated soil. Roots need oxygen to function. When the subsoil stays waterlogged, oxygen disappears and the lower portions rot. Clay-heavy or compacted soils, common in a lot of gardens, can act like a barrier, forcing even a plant inclined to go deep to spread sideways instead. Deep-rooted annuals, like sunflowers, take time to establish, so they may falter in short seasons if conditions aren’t right.

Shallow roots are masters of opportunity Shallow-rooted plants live fast. Their fibrous systems spread wide in the upper 6 to 12 inches of soil, ready to absorb nutrients and surface moisture the moment it appears. Prairie grasses (see sidebar), lettuces, onions, pansies, and many annual flowers use this strategy. The topsoil layer is rich in decaying organic matter and microbial activity, so food is plentiful if moisture is available.

Because they don’t waste energy on deep exploration, shallow-rooted plants can grow and reproduce quickly. They’re also invaluable for holding soil in place, especially on slopes or windy sites. Turfgrass roots form dense mats that resist erosion better than

28 • 2026

almost anything else. In the wild, these shallow systems help rebuild soil after disturbance and provide habitat for countless microorganisms.

Still, they’re vulnerable. In dry weather, the surface layer loses moisture first. Without consistent watering, or mulch to prevent the moisture from evaporating, shallow-rooted plants wilt rapidly. They really depend on surface conditions so they suffer more from competition and quick swings in temperature.

Alpine plants tend to have shallow roots because the topsoil on mountains isn’t thick. Species from saxifrages to alpine asters typically form shallow but intricate root mats that cling to crevices and spread horizontally. These mats anchor the plant against wind, trap pockets of soil, and take advantage of meltwater that runs close to the surface.

There are some alpine cushion plants that develop both strategies: shallow feeders near the top and a few strong taproots that penetrate cracks for stability.

Gardening where rain is plentiful If your garden lies in a region of heavy or prolonged rain like coastal British Columbia or Atlantic Canada, the key is to think about drainage before depth.

Deep-rooted plants can suffer if their roots sit in oxygen-poor mud for weeks at a time. Instead of trying to change the plants, change the soil environment. (There are, of course, aquatic plants, but that’s another story.)

Raised beds, berms, and coarse organic matter such as composted bark or shredded leaves improve drainage and keep the root zone aerated. Once the soil breathes, many deeper-rooted plants will grow comfortably. Choosing species naturally tolerant of wet conditions also helps: willows, red osier dogwood, sedges, astilbes, and ligularias all manage with wetter feet.

Avoid digging holes that act like buckets; plant slightly high so water drains away. Deep-rooted vegetables such as carrots or parsnips will do poorly in saturated ground but thrive in loose, well-drained soil. Where constant rain is unavoidable, stick to shallower-rooted crops like lettuce, kale, or onions.

They live in aerated topsoil and can cope with surface moisture.

Gardening with both The most balanced gardens contain a mix. Deeprooted plants act like the bones of the system: they stabilise, open channels, and store resilience. Shallow-rooted plants form the skin: they protect, shade, and hold moisture close. Together they create a selfIssue 1

localgardener.net

supporting structure where water moves freely, nutrients circulate, and the soil stays alive.

In a vegetable bed, follow deep-rooted crops with shallow ones from year to year. Carrots one season, lettuce the next. The roots of one prepare the way for the other. In perennial borders, combine tall taprooted flowers like coneflowers, baptisias, or foxgloves

with fibrous-rooted companions such as daylilies, hostas, and creeping thymes.

Whether you garden on the dry prairie, in a rainy coastal valley, or on rocky alpine soil, the best approach is balance. Deep roots reach for what’s hidden; shallow roots seize what’s close at hand. Together, they make a garden that can breathe, drink, and endure. O

A deep-rooted prairie myth

By Shauna Dobbie

The Ecological relations of roots. Illustration by John Earnest Weaver, taken from his publication Patterns from the World Underneath: The Ecological Relations of Roots (1919).

I

always thought that prairie grasses had roots that stretch for eons below the surface to find water during times of drought. We’ve all seen those drawings and photos of them. More recent research says otherwise.

Ecologists Dave Wedin of the University of Nebraska–Lincoln and Jesse Nippert of Kansas State University have shown that while prairie grasses do have deep roots, they get nearly all their water from the top 10 inches localgardener.net

Scan me Read more about this in an article by Chris Helzer, The Prairie Ecologist https://prairieecologist.com/2019/09/17/ a-deep-rooted-prairie-myth/

of soil. Those roots form an intricate, fibrous mat that efficiently captures Issue 1

rainfall near the surface. Forbs (broadleaf plants that aren’t trees) reach a little deeper, but even they rarely tap water beyond 30 inches.

Grasses persist not because they reach deep water, but because they can survive on very little. So why bother growing long roots? They serve as storage facilities for carbohydrates and other nutrients. They anchor plants.

And they keep a lot of the plant underground, protected from grazing and wildfires.

2026 • 29

ROOTS

Do roots talk underground?

Photo by Ramjchandran.

Story by Shauna Dobbie

A look at hyphae of a fungi that spread out between plant roots under the soil to help create an underground network.

P

lants may not have mouths, but under the soil their roots are busy sending messages.

Sometimes they help their neighbours and sometimes they sabotage them.

Chemical signals: the good and the bad Roots release thousands of compounds into the soil, collectively called root exudates. These chemicals feed soil microbes, attract fungi, and alter the behaviour of nearby plants. Through these secretions,

30 • 2026

one plant can warn another of insect attack, encourage co-operation, or suppress competition. When a root senses stress, like drought or pest damage, it may release signalling molecules such as jasmonic acid, a “fight-or-flight” plant hormone.

Neighbouring plants detect the cue and strengthen their own defences, producing protective enzymes or changing the chemistry of their leaves. It’s the plant world’s version of a neighbourhood watch.

But not all underground messages Issue 1

are kind. Many plants practise allelopathy, a chemical form of sabotage. Black walnut trees, for example, release juglone, a compound that stunts or kills sensitive species such as tomatoes, apples, and pines.

Sunflowers, sorghum and certain grasses do the same, exuding chemicals that block the germination or growth of rivals. These strategies give the plant sending them more access to nutrients, light, and space, even as they poison potential competitors. localgardener.net

The fungal connection Much of this communication happens through fungi. Mycorrhizal fungi colonize roots and spread fine filaments called hyphae through the soil, linking one plant’s root system to another’s. Scientists call this network the common mycorrhizal network, or more colourfully, the “wood-wide web.” Through these fungal threads, plants can share nutrients, send chemical warnings, and even influence the growth of others.

The co-operation can be surprisingly generous. In some forests, older trees feed shaded seedlings with carbon and nitrogen through the network, helping them survive.

But fungi are not altruistic messengers; they charge a fee, taking sugars from their hosts. In nutrient-poor soils, the balance can shift. The fungi may favour certain partners or divert resources elsewhere, turning the network from co-operative to exploitative.

Roots in conflict Some signals set off competition instead of co-operation. When roots detect the chemical profile of a closely related neighbour, they may restrain growth to avoid crowding. When the neighbour is unrelated, though, roots often respond by growing faster or deeper, a silent underground race for water and nutrients. This sensitivity allows plants to map their surroundings without moving an inch.

Why it matters in the garden For gardeners, these hidden interactions explain why some plant combinations thrive and others struggle.

Companion planting, crop rotation, and soil health all tie back to what happens underground. Encouraging a diverse microbial community and maintaining organic matter support the beneficial side of root signalling.

A quiet conversation While the idea of roots “talking” is metaphorical, the science is clear: plants exchange a constant flow of information below the surface. They warn, compete, nurture, and deceive, all through chemistry and the fungi that weave them together. The next time you walk through a forest or turn the soil in your garden, imagine the intricate web beneath you: a living network carrying messages from root to root, shaping the community above. O localgardener.net

Plants like black walnut trees (above) and sunflowers (below) release chemicals into the soil around them in order to make it harder for rivals to grow in.

Glossary Jasmonic acid: A natural chemical messenger that plants make when they’re hurt or attacked, warning nearby leaves or even neighbouring plants to toughen up.

Allelopathy: When one plant puts the brakes on others by releasing natural chemicals into the soil or air that slow their growth or stop seeds from sprouting.

Juglone: A toxic compound made by black walnut and a few of its relatives that seeps into the soil and poisons sensitive plants like tomatoes and hydrangeas.

Root exudates: The sugars, acids, and other compounds that roots ooze into the soil to feed friendly microbes or send chemical messages to other plants.

Mycorrhizal fungi: Microscopic fungi that connect with plant roots, helping them gather water and nutrients in exchange for a bit of the plant’s sugar.

Hyphae: The thin, hairlike threads that grow out from a fungus or its spores, spreading through the soil to form a vast underground network.

Issue 1

2026 • 31

ROOTS

Root cellar revival Story by Shauna Dobbie

The entrance to a root cellar in Newfoundland.

32 • 2026

Photo by Claire Lucia, courtesy of iStockphoto.

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ardeners are turning back to the humble root cellar.

This simple structure offers a low-energy way to preserve harvests through the off-season and reduce reliance on refrigeration. Historically common across Canada and other cold-climate regions, root cellars are now appealing again as people seek sustainable, resilient home systems.

A root cellar uses the earth’s stable temperature and humidity to slow down the biochemical processes that cause spoilage. Effective storage in a root cellar can extend the shelf-life of your homegrown root crops, squash, onions and garlic by many months.

It is also a great space to store your home canning.

Root cellars work best if they are already built. If you live on a farm built over 100 years ago you may already have one. Even if it needs some repair or digging out, you are

They are good for overwintering vegetables and preserves.

far ahead of anyone wanting to build a new one.

To build a new root cellar, separate from your home, will probably cost around $10,000. Think hard about whether to start; sure, it would be great to have somewhere to keep your dahlia tubers through the winter, but Issue 1

it will require a lot of fortitude.

Check your local bylaws and site conditions first Before committing to construction, you need to check two major things: whether your municipality permits the structure and whether the conditions in your yard are suitable. Ask localgardener.net

whether a below- or semi-below grade structure for food storage is allowed on your lot.

You’ll also want to check for any excavation permits, easements, utility lines (gas, water, sewer) and issues like floodplain or high water table.

You need an area with good drainage (to avoid flooding or groundwater seepage), preferably with soil depth that allows earth-sheltered insulation and minimal direct sunlight. If you’re in a region with a very shallow water table or steep cost to dig, a root cellar will be more challenging.

Basic design principles Here are the essential design elements your cellar should meet: Temperature. Ideally you aim for a cool but above-freezing range. About 1 to 5 Celsius with minimal fluctuations is very good for many crops.

Humidity. High humidity slows Humid Carrots Parsnips Beets Turnips Rutabagas Cabbage

Dry Onions Garlic Shallots Winter squash Sweet potatoes

moisture loss from stored vegetables.

Many root crops prefer 85 to 95 percent relative humidity. Be careful, though; other root crops prefer a drier arrangement.

Darkness and insulation. Light accelerates sprouting and spoilage in many vegetables. Earth-sheltering (or thick insulation) helps maintain stable temperatures.

Ventilation and air flow. Fresh air intake and stale air exhaust help with moisture control, prevent build-up of gases like ethylene that speed ripening, and avoid mould.

Materials and location. A northfacing entrance or placement under a berm is good to avoid heat gain. Walls may use concrete, masonry or other durable materials suited to soil pressure and moisture.

Separation. You will need enough space to keep humid and dry vegetables separate. Also, if you have apples to store, they need to be far from the other vegetables or in their own space.

They produce ethylene gas that will cause other vegetables to go bad.

What you may expect and pitfalls When successfully built, your root cellar can allow you to store carrots, localgardener.net

beets, winter squash, onions and garlic for many months beyond harvest.

According to Canadian guidelines, even if you don’t hit perfect conditions, “you can still get a long shelf life out of your vegetables in cool conditions.”

But be aware of common pitfalls: if the cellar freezes, your produce can be damaged; if humidity is too low, root crops will shrivel; too high humid-

ity can promote mould or rot. Poor drainage or a high water table can result in dampness or flooding. Also, failing to check municipal regulations and utility lines before digging can lead to costly issues.

One more note is the possibility of putting in a pre-fab root cellar. There are a few ideas floating around out there. You could use a new septic tank as long as it is properly ventilated. O

Alternatives to root cellars Scan me Check out this short video

by Nathan Dickeson for alternatives to root cellars. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/u8KfuidJr04

Scan me Check out this video from the From Scratch Farmstead to see how they store their food without a root cellar. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1X9toy4yGk

C

onsider your basement. It is probably possible to shut off heat to an area of your basement and to put in a room with insulation on the walls and ceiling. Add ventilation and shelves and you now have, effectively, a root cellar.

Revel in the wild beauty that defines Canada’s Real North

LazyBearLodge.com Issue 1

2026 • 33

WHAT’S GROWING ON

Eco-friendly edible gardening Story by Steven Biggs

Squash growing on a pile of leaves enclosed with wire.

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f you’re wondering about ways to make your edible garden more eco-friendly, you don’t have to tackle big projects. A few small tweaks can make a big difference.

Here are five simple eco-friendly ideas that you can start with.

1. Buy less. It’s easy to be a consumer. Buy the latest cultivars. Buy gardening gadgets. Buy supplies. Are there any of these you 34 • 2026

don’t really need?

Gardening doesn’t have to be as consumeristic. Buying less is simply a way to cut back on the footprint of your gardening. Less packaging.

Less shipping.

Not sure where to start? Grow a few of your own transplants. Then you’ll rely less on store-bought transplants, which are often grown in disposable plastic containers.

They’re usually grown in heatIssue 1

guzzling commercial greenhouses … and then are shipped by truck.

So growing a few of your own transplants is a great way to be more eco-friendly.

And if you want to go a step further, save some seeds. Or trade seeds or your homegrown transplants with other gardeners.

2. Use leaves for growing.

Where I live, the streets are lined with bags of leaves for municipal localgardener.net

The saucer under this potted fig tree catches water that would otherwise drain away.

pickup every fall. They get composted. But the footprint includes leaf blowers, yard-waste bags, and the trucks that pick up the bagged leaves.

Then, after the leaves are composted at an out-of-town facility, the compost is bagged… and sent back for gardeners.

It seems like a make-work, wasteenergy project.

Here’s a simple alternative to deal with leaves in your edible garden: Mound up your leaves into a composter or compost pile. Then, throw a couple of spades full of soil onto the heap of leaves. The soil is for you to plant into. Then, grow squash on top of your leaves. By the end of the summer, you’ll have lots of squash as well as crumbly leaf compost to enrich your garden soil.

If you don’t want a compost pile, just rake leaves around the base of your fruiting trees and bushes as a mulch. It’s a great way to deter weeds!

3. Create habitat. Adding flowers to a veg patch is a no brainer: The flowers bring in pollinators to help pollinate your crops. The flowers also attract beneficial insects such as predators and parasites to help control pests on your crops.

Added bonus: You’ll have flowers to give that special person in your life!

There are other ways to add habitat in an edible garden. How about localgardener.net

Self seeding poppies add colour and bring pollinators and beneficial insects to the veggie garden.

an edible hedge? It’s a great spot for birds and beneficials and a neat way to weave together a variety of fruiting bushes.

4. Use less water. Whether you’re on a well with limited water, or in a municipality where you pay for your water, it makes sense to use less.

In the edible garden, an easy place to start using less water is with potted plants: Put a saucer under the pots to catch runoff when you water. As the potted plant uses water, the water in the saucer soaks back up into the pot.

You water less often, and there’s less water wasted.

Going a step further, grow in containers that hold water. These are often called sub-irrigated or selfwatering pots. (A common acronym is SIPS.) They store water that is then wicked up into the soil as plants use it. No more water all over the driveway or deck when you water your potted veg.

And here’s a super idea if you’re growing in raised beds: A wicking bed. This is a raised bed with a reservoir. Same idea as self-watering pots but on a bigger scale. You water less often, and use far less water than a conventional raised bed because there’s less runoff and less water lost to evaporation.

5. Embrace imperfection. Who doesn’t want a perfect tomato or a large, perfect head of lettuce like the ones we see at the store. But a perfecIssue 1

tionist mindset takes us back to the first idea I shared: It’s easy to buy more than we really need for a home garden.

There are lots of sprays and products to cure a vast array of pests, diseases, and nutrient deficiencies.

I’m not knocking the products. And we often need some of them. But it’s easy to go overboard.

Perfection matters for commercial growers who sell what they grow. But in a home garden, does it really matter if you have a few holes in your leafy greens? Or if your zucchini plants conk out late summer from powdery mildew? After you’ve already had your fill of zucchini (and already overloaded all your neighbours with zucchini.)

One more idea! Don’t forget to pass the torch! Help future generations see how fun gardening is and teach them your eco-gardening tricks. Give the kids in your life a corner of the garden. Or let them help you harvest. And if you don’t have kids or grandkids, make your garden a friendly place for neighbourhood kids. My neighbour’s kids know they’re allowed to visit my garden and walk on the paths. I always send them home with a bug, berry, or veg to chomp on. O Horticulturist Steven Biggs specializes in home food gardening. Find his edible gardening courses, and books about growing lemons, figs, and olives in cold climates at FoodGardenLife.com.

2026 • 35

SEEDS

Canadian seed catalogues It’s time to order your seeds for 2026!

BRITISH COLUMBIA BC BC Eco Seed Co-op bcecoseedcoop.com Black Creek Good Earth Farms goodearthfarms.ca Comox Valley Ravensong Seeds and Herbals ravensongherbals.com

Krestova Winnow Seed Company winnowseedco.ca Metchosin Metchosin Farm Seeds metchosinfarm.ca Mission Ferncliff Gardens ferncliffgardens.com

sell heirloom and organic seeds, all produced on and around Salt Spring Island. Their focus is on sustainability and becoming self-reliant.

Sardis BC’s Wild Heritage Plants bcwildheritage.com Sooke Full Circle Seeds fullcircleseeds.com

Delta West Coast Seeds westcoastseeds.com

Dahlias! Dahlias! Celebrating their 104th year providing Canadian gardeners with premium Dahlias!

Located in Mission, BC, Ferncliff Gardens’ catalogue is a wonder to behold. If you are a serious collector of dahlias, this is the place to go. If you are new to dahlias, consider one of their special collections; you’ll be hooked!

Errington Cicada Seeds cicadaseeds.ca

Pemberton Across the Creek Organics acrossthecreekorganics.ca

Fanny Bay Twining Vine Garden twiningvinegarden.com

Protection Island Small Island Seed Company smallislandseedco.com

Victoria Rebecca’s Garden rebeccasgarden.ca

Gabriola Sweet Rock Farm sweetrockfarm.ca

Saanichton Saanich Organics saanichorganics.com

ALBERTA

Kamloops Laughing Swan Farm laughingswanfarm.com

Salmon Arm Choked Up chokedup.ca

Airdrie Casey’s Heirloom Tomatoes caseysheirloomtomatoes.ca

Kelowna Sunshine Farm sunshinefarm.net

Salt Spring Island Eagleridge Seeds eagleridgeseeds.com

Calgary Circle Farms Heirloom Seeds circlefarms.ca

This is a farm that offers vocational development opportunities to adults in the Community Living sector. They sell several certified organic seed varieties online.

Salt Spring Island Salt Spring Seeds saltspringseeds.com

Creston Garden Girl Seed gardengirlseeds.ca

36 • 2026

This company has been around for over 30 years. They Issue 1

Steveston Seeds of the Revolution seedsrevolution.ca Vancouver Island Bumble Seeds bumbleseeds.com Victoria Brother Nature brothernature.ca

Calgary Common Sense Seeds commonsenseseeds.ca

localgardener.net

Cherhill A’Bunadh Seeds abunadhseeds.ca Leslieville Beautiful Blooms beautifulblooms.ab.ca Lethbridge Wild Rose Heritage Seed wildroseheritageseed.com Red Deer County Eagle Creek Seed Potatoes seedpotatoes.ca Sturgeon County Moonglow Seeds growersblend.ca Turner Valley CoCreative Seeds cocreativeseeds.com

SASKATCHEWAN Humboldt Prairie Garden Seeds prairiegardenseeds.ca Parkside Mumm’s Sprouting Seeds sprouting.com Saskatoon Early’s Farm and Garden Centre earlysgarden.com Early’s has been serving Saskatchewan growers with quality products and expert advice for over 119 years. Early’s has one of the largest garden seed selections available all year long! Perfect for spring prep, or winter indoor gardening too! While placing your seed order on their website, you can check out their other gardening supplies, as well as lawn, yard care, pet and livestock items! Two retail locations open year-round.

Wroxton No Coast Seeds nocoastseeds.ca localgardener.net

MANITOBA Brandon Lindenberg Seeds lindenbergseeds.ca This is one company that still does things the old fashioned way: print off the order form from their website and you can fax it to them.

Since 1935, the philosophy has been to supply quality seed at a fair price.

Fergus Seeds of Imbolc seedsofimbolc.ca Foxboro Terra Edibles terraedibles.ca

Fisher Branch Heritage Harvest Seed heritageharvestseed.com

Tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes!

Separated by colour on the website. ‘Banana Legs’, ‘Osu Blue’ and ‘Emerald Green’, to name but a few; photos and descriptions help in your online shopping experience. Located in Foxboro, Ontario, Terra Edibles has been serving customers since 1993.

They also offer many choices of other vegetables (especially beans), and herbs and flowers.

Headingley T&T Seeds ttseeds.com

Goodwood Richters Herbs richters.com

Lorette Tiny Monster tinymonstergarden.com

Guelph Saturday Seed Company saturdayseedco.ca

Winnipeg Sage Garden Greenhouses sagegarden.ca

Keene Florabunda Seeds florabundaseeds.com

Brandon Oak Summit Nursery oaksummitnursery.ca

ONTARIO Bruce Peninsula Franken Farm frankenfarm.ca Caledonia Matchbox Garden Seed Company matchboxgarden.ca Cookstown Stems Flower Farm stemsflowerfarm.ca Dundas William Dam Seeds damseeds.com Eastern Ontario Norton Naturals nortonnaturals.com Issue 1

Kitchener Ontario Seed Co. (OSC) oscseeds.com Manitoulin Three Forks Seeds threeforksseeds.com Mildmay Carrick Seeds carrickseeds.ca Mildmay Garden Alchemy Seeds gardenalchemyseeds.ca Mount Forest Hawthorn Farm Organic Seeds hawthornfarm.ca Nipissing Piebird Farm Sanctuary store.piebird.org

2026 • 37

Ottawa Gaia Organic Seeds gaiaorganics.ca

Wolfe Island Kitchen Table Seed House kitchentableseedhouse.ca

Ottawa Greta’s Family Gardens seeds-organic.com

QUEBEC

Peterborough Urban Tomato urbantomato.ca

Beaumont Les Semences du Batteux lessemencesdubatteux.ca

Port Hope Natural Seed Bank seed-bank.ca South Gillies Root Cellar Gardens rootcellargardens.com Sudbury Heritage Hobby Seed Ark heritagehobbyseed.com Thorold Stokes Seeds stokeseeds.com/ca/ Thunder Bay Superior Seed Producers superiorseedproducers.wordpress. com

Farrellton Northern Seeds northernseeds.ca Joliette Natural Seeds naturalseedscanada.com Natural Seeds was founded in 2020 in Lanaudiere, Quebec. We aim to supply affordable seeds to Canadians. One package of seeds is enough for one garden. Thanks to our minimized packaging, we can send you everything without shipping fees. All that we grow is NATURAL; we use only non-chemical products.

Kamouraska La Société des Plantes lasocietedesplantes.com

Toronto Berton Seeds Company Ltd bertonseeds.ca

Laval WH Perron whperron.com/en

Toronto Pepper Merchant peppermerchant.net

Les Cedres La Ferme Cooperative Tourne-Sol fermetournesol.qc.ca

Verona Bear Root Gardens bearrootgardens.com

Longueuil Les Semences la Campagnarde lacampagnarde.ca

Warkworth Ferri Seeds ferriseeds.com Warkworth Urban Harvest uharvest.ca Whitefish

Northern Wildflowers northernwildflowers.ca 38 • 2026

Montreal Akène culture forestière akene.ca Akene is a native seed company based in Quebec, specializing in the production, conditioning, and distribution of locally grown and ethically harvested seeds. Its catalog includes a wide range of native plants for biodiversity and ecological restoration. Akene offers Issue 1

tailored solutions for both individuals and professionals – from small-scale gardening projects to large ecological restoration initiatives – with seeds adapted to local ecosystems.

Montreal Hortinova Seeds hortinova.ca Montreal Mount Royal Seeds mountroyalseeds.com Montreal Terre Promise terrepromise.ca Repentigny Solana Seeds solanaseeds.netfirms.com Rimouski Le Jardin de Julie jardindejulie.com Sainte-Agathe-de-Lotbinère Jardin des Vie-la-joie vielajoie.com Sainte-Claire Croisee des Cultures croiseedescultures.com Saint-Cuthbert Semences Nouveau Paysan nouveaupaysan.com Saint-Damien Les Jardins de l’écoumène ecoumene.com Saint-Didace Semences du Grand-Portage semencesduportage.com Sherbrooke Jardins de la Gaillarde jardinsdelagaillarde.ca Stanbridge East Le Noyau Semences lenoyau.com St-Appollinaire Le Potager Ornemental de Catherine potagerornemental.com localgardener.net

NEW BRUNSWICK Harvey Atlantic Pepper Seeds pepperseeds.ca Atlantic Pepper Seeds is home to the world’s peppers with over 2,400 varieties available online year round. We have been serving Canada and the world now for over 25 years. We know our Capsicum peppers! If it is a pepper, we have it or have grown it, and this coming year we are celebrating our 25th anniversary since 2001. Email Atlantic@pepperseeds.ca and admin@pepperseeds.ca. Located in New Brunswick.

Blockhouse Seed to seed seedtoseed.ca Bridgewater Incredible Seed Company incredibleseeds.ca Halifax Halifax Seed Company halifaxseed.ca Laconia Yonder Hill Farm yonderhillfarm.ca Lynden Haitai Seeds agrohaitai.com

Roachville Rainbow Seeds rainbowseeds.ca

Mosher Corner Revival Seeds revivalseeds.ca

Weldon Mapple Farm mapplefarm.com

Nictaux Annapolis Seeds annapolisseeds.com

NOVA SCOTIA Annapolis Royale Hope Seeds hopeseed.com

Upper Stewiacke Cochrane Family Seeds cochranefamilyfarm.com

Windsor Howard Dill Enterprises howarddill.com

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND PEI PEI Seed Alliance peiseedalliance.ca York Veseys Seeds veseys.com

NEWFOUNDLAND St. John’s Perfectly Perennial perfectlyperennial.ca St. John’s The Seed Company by EW Gaze theseedcompany.ca

Wallace Bay La Finquita (the little farm) lafinquita.ca

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2026 • 39

GARDEN LIFE

From snow to soil

Rediscovering the joy of gardening Story by Penelope Beaudrow, photos by Serena Mor – except where noted

Wonders from my garden.

A

s I write this, snowflakes swirl outside my window, blanketing my kitchen garden in a pristine white cover. But despite the winter's stillness, my excitement for the growing season ahead is anything but dormant. Soon, my hands will be warm in the soil again, sowing seeds, nurturing plants, and harvesting their bountiful gifts.

Each year brings the promise of familiar favourites sprouting up, alongside the thrill of experimenting with new, exotic additions to my garden beds. Can anything compare to the joy of gardening?

Ask any gardener, and they’ll eagerly share their cherished plants, each treasured for its unique uses, whether culinary, medicinal, aromatic, or purely for its beauty. Here are some of my all-time favourites and a peek at what new plants I’m eager to explore this year.

40 • 2026

Must-haves Lovage: a perennial powerhouse. Lovage reigns supreme in my garden. This robust, tall perennial is among the first to emerge in spring, offering its celerylike leaves from the earliest days of the season right through autumn.

I love using its flavourful leaves in smoothies, stocks, soups, and stews. They elevate meat, fish, and vegetable dishes alike. Beyond the kitchen, lovage has a history of medicinal use for indigestion, coughs, and inflammation. My favourite quirk? The hollow stalks make delightful drink straws for tomato juice, Bloody Marys, or my personal favourite, a caesar.

Sweet cicely: sugar’s best friend. A feast for the eyes and a gift for the taste buds, sweet cicely is a staple in my garden. With its fern-like leaves and delicate white flowers, it’s a haven for pollinators, particularly bees.

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localgardener.net

Photo by Rob Hille.

Echinacea.

Photo by Serena Mor.

Lovage stem, cut.

The leaves, with their gentle anise flavour, are perfect in soups, salads, and both sweet and savoury dishes. My go-to use? Pairing them with rhubarb to naturally cut down on sugar in pies and sauces. The seeds double as a breath freshener and add a unique touch to breads and smoothies. Even the roots are edible, cooked like parsnips. Truly, this plant does it all!

Echinacea: a native treasure. The vibrant purple coneflower is as functional as it is beautiful. A native North American plant, echinacea supports local ecosystems, attracting hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees while providing winter food for birds and critters.

In the garden, it’s a striking visual and a medicinal powerhouse. Traditionally, echinacea has been used to boost immunity and treat colds, fevers, and infections.

It’s also a lovely addition to floral bouquets, bringing colour and cheer indoors. localgardener.net

Photo by Dorothy Dobbie.

Sweet cicely.

Basil.

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2026 • 41

Photo by Jean Gagnon.

Variegated marjoram.

Basil: the spirit lifter. If gardening had a moodenhancing herb, it would be basil. Its aroma alone feels like an instant pick-me-up! A natural companion to tomatoes, basil thrives in their company and enhances yields while repelling pesky insects.

In the kitchen, basil shines in pesto, salad dressings, and teas. It’s also packed with magnesium and vitamin A, making it as heart healthy as it is delicious. I also love it in my smoothies.

What’s new in my garden this year?

This year, I’m diving into uncharted territory with some exciting additions inspired by the Richters Herbs catalog. Each plant is brimming with potential to enhance both my kitchen and my wellness routine.

Variegated marjoram (Origanum vulgare ‘Variegata’). This charming perennial herb, with its soft green leaves edged in creamy white, adds both beauty and fragrance to my garden. Known for its adaptability, variegated marjoram thrives in sunny spots and welldrained soil, making it an easy and rewarding choice for herb gardens or ornamental borders. In cooler climates like mine (Zone 5), it can be grown as an annual or overwintered indoors in a sunny window.

The leaves of variegated marjoram offer a delicate, slightly sweet oregano flavour, perfect for seasoning meats, vegetables, and sauces. Fresh or dried, they infuse dishes with a gentle herbal warmth without overpowering other ingredients. Traditionally, marjoram has been valued for supporting digestion, easing colds and coughs, and promoting relaxation. Rich in antioxidants and aromatic oils, it is both a culinary delight and a wellness ally.

Elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum). Native to Central Asia and beloved for its mild yet flavourful cloves, elephant garlic is technically a type of leek, though 42 • 2026

Elephant garlic.

it grows and looks like its garlicky cousins. Its oversized bulbs, often as big as a fist, make it both a culinary curiosity and a conversation starter in the garden.

Medicinally, elephant garlic shares many of the same healthful properties as regular garlic, though in gentler form. Traditionally valued for its antimicrobial and immune-supporting benefits, it’s also known to promote cardiovascular health and aid digestion. For those sensitive to the pungency of regular garlic, this variety offers a sweeter, less intense option without losing its healthgiving charm.

In the kitchen, elephant garlic is a star. Roast whole cloves to bring out a nutty, buttery flavour, slice thinly into stir-fries, or mash into creamy spreads. It’s equally at home in soups, salads, and even herb butters. Hardy, eye-catching, and deeply rewarding, elephant garlic earns its place in my garden every season.

Egyptian onions (Allium × proliferum). Also known as walking onions, these hardy perennials are a gardener’s dream. They grow small bulbils at the top of their stalks, which naturally fall to the ground and take root, giving the appearance that the onions are "walking" across the garden.

What makes Egyptian onions truly exceptional is their versatility. In spring, their tender green stems can be harvested and used like scallions. The bulbils atop the stalks are perfect for pickling, garnishing, or substituting for traditional onions in recipes. Even the larger underground bulbs can be used in cooking, though harvesting these requires replanting bulbils to maintain the plant.

Medicinally, onions have been celebrated for centuries for their antibacterial properties, immune-boosting effects, and use as a poultice for earaches and chest congestion.

‘Chicago’ fig (Ficus carica). This hardy variety of fig tree, with its rich green foliage and deep purple-brown Issue 1

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Photo by Serena Mor.

Photo by Forest and Kim Starr.

Egyptian onions.

formed into preserves and baked goods. Traditionally, figs have been valued for aiding digestion, soothing coughs, and supporting overall wellness. Rich in fiber, antioxidants, and essential minerals such as calcium and potassium, they are both nourishing and indulgent.

These new plants are set to add beauty, flavour, and health benefits to my garden while enriching my connection to the natural world. O Penelope Beaudrow, a Registered Herbalist, is a subject matter expert at Richters Herbs. www.richters.com

Photo by Serena Mor.

fruits, is a rewarding addition to my garden. Known for its exceptional cold tolerance, the Chicago fig can survive winters in cooler climates like mine (Zone 5) with minimal protection, often returning strong from the roots each spring. When grown in a pot, it can easily be overwintered in a garage or sheltered space, ensuring dependable harvests year after year.

The fruits of this fig are a true delight. Medium-sized with a jammy, berry-like sweetness, they can be savoured fresh off the tree, dried for winter enjoyment, or trans-

Penelope and friend in the garden. localgardener.net

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Located close to downtown Calgary, the Beaulieu Gardens surround the Lougheed House National & Provincial Historic Site.

Photo by Jacqueline Sheen.

GARDEN INSPIRATION

Beautiful Gardens

Beaulieu Gardens

A living tribute to Calgary’s Victorian past Story by Darlene Chrapko, photos by Darlene Chrapko, Lawrence Eisler and Jacqueline Sheen.

Photo by Darlene Chrapko.

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magine lavish tea parties at the turn of the 19th century, period fashion and dignified guests, hosted in the gardens of a historic Victorian-style mansion built in 1891. Nestled in the Beltline area of Calgary’s inner city on 13th Avenue SW, across the street from the historic Ranchmen’s Club is a sandstone mansion, restored to its former stately glory, surrounded by attractive historical formal gardens, known simply as Beaulieu: Beautiful Gardens.

Covering over three acres of green space, the gardens are a portal into the history of a family, its legacy and historical gardens. The former residence and gardens of Isabella and Sir James Lougheed, who became a senator in the time of Premier (and later, Prime Minister) R. B. Bennett, have been lovingly restored. The 20th anniversary of the Lougheed House’s reopening as a museum was marked in May, 2025, with a new historical exhibit on the first and second floors of the house, and a summer garden celebration was held in July.

Isabella Clark Hardisty, fondly known as Belle, the daughter of a prominent northern fur trader, and Senator James Lougheed were married in 1884 and their house was

The historic Lougheed House looks out over the Formal Gardens.

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Photo by Darlene Chrapko.

Photo by Jacqueline Sheen.

Delphiniums, putting on a show, in front of a replicated balustrade.

The circular beds of the formal gardens.

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built in 1891. Today the Métis flag is a prominent fixture on the grounds, honouring Lady Isabella’s family heritage.

Prestigious social events at the Lougheed House were hosted by invitation only and overseen by Lady Isabella.

One of the most significant exclusive events was a garden party to honour the visit of His Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales in 1919.

Today the gardens are open to the public and enjoyed by many visitors, both local and from afar. The gardens continue to be filled with people as the Lougheed House hosts events such as weddings and seasonal parties and has served as an attractive filming location. On any typical summer day, office workers enjoy their lunch in the gardens and friends gather for picnics or recreational activities. Surrounded by trees, the public green space in the inner city is a treasured and reclusive retreat.

What is immediately striking is the scale and geometric design of the formal gardens, unified by the colourful mix of annuals, carefully selected by Jane Resken, Beaulieu’s current head gardener. The original design of the garden has been maintained, including a gravel pathway running alongside the front of the house that served as a carriage drop-off for family and guests. Whatever changes have been made to the original garden design are subtle: the softening of the elevation of the terraces, for example, and the replication of the original balustrades in concrete.

Resken describes the approach to the garden as a modern take within a historical framework.

In addition, to the stunning formal gardens and pathways, the areas alongside the west side of the house served as pasture for livestock. A generous green space has become an on-leash dog park, said to be a tribute to Lady Isabella’s love of animals.

Japanese tree lilacs and weeping caraganas mark the understated Mission Garden that leads into the side entryIssue 1

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Photo by Darlene Chrapko.

Photo by Lawrence Eisler.

A look into the historic Brawn Family rose garden.

Some places to sit. localgardener.net

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Giant containers of annuals.

Tall ligularias.

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A vegetable patch in the working garden.

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Orange poppies, yellow sunflowers and a spray of purple Russian sage.

The garden includes a dedicated dog park. localgardener.net

way of the house facing 13th Avenue, formerly Senator Lougheed’s office. Senator Lougheed envisioned the avenue becoming Millionaire’s Row, but the house fell into disrepair and the gardens were neglected when he passed in 1925, followed by Lady Isabella in 1936. The house then became City property and was occupied by several different organizations, including a Provincial Youth Training Program for Domestics, the Women’s Army Corps, a YWCA Boarding House and the Red Cross. When the province bought the house in 1977, it was designated as a Provincial Historic Resource. The house and gardens were designated a National Historic Site in 1992.

The Brawn Family Rose Garden, a tribute to Lady Isabella’s original rose garden has been relocated behind the house. A small veggie garden bordered with thriving nasturtiums, and a cutting garden for flowers displayed throughout the house and sold at the annual Gardener’s Market have also been created in what were the stables behind the house.

A key focus is balancing and honouring the past with the inspiration of a traditional Victorian garden. Victorian Gardens were designed around three basic elements: lawn, flowers and fencing. Against the tall perennials, including towering deep-pink hollyhocks and stark white delphiniums, the colour theme of annuals unifies the garden. The vibrant flow of colour “reads better” says Resken. Victorian-style urn planters and more contemporary colossal self-watering planters filled with annuals such as cannas are permanent fixtures throughout the gardens providing continuity and additional vibrant colour, characteristic of a typical Victorian garden.

Choosing the annual colour scheme and flowers is the highlight of Resken’s year. Her face lights up as she describes the creativity that goes into planning, carefully selecting and ordering the annual flowers and plants each fall. This year she chose brilliant yellow and pink with contrasting darker foliage, and blue, white and green as her main colour themes. Under her guidance, over 90 dedicated volunteer gardeners maintain the gardens on a weekly schedule throughout the summer months.

From the archives, an article published in the Calgary Herald in 1912 describes the gardens as rivalling those in the east. Lady Isabella installed a beautifully sculptured swan fountain, as a focal point and place for guests to linger at the heart of the formal gardens. The current design draws attention to this focal point with the drama of tall papyrus grass, surrounded by concentric circles of tall pink cosmos, yellow marigolds and lime green potato vine, a design known as carpet bedding.

Other perennials include irises, roses, milkweed, peonies and globe thistle. The persistent self-seeding biennial hollyhocks are believed to be from the original garden. White irises came from the gardens of Mary Dover, daughter of A.E. Cross, well-known for her pioneering work as a woman in the military.

As you stroll along the pathways or relax on one of the benches and enjoy the beautiful setting you may wonder about the lavish lives once lived here and the era that defined them. The Lougheeds were known as community builders and would be delighted to know that the gardens are enjoyed by the public and that this historical era lives on. O

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GARDEN INSPIRATION

Beautiful Gardens A shared vision

Ewa and Waldemar Bocian, Winnipeg Story by Shauna Dobbie, photos by Ewa Bocian and Shauna Dobbie

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wa and her husband, Waldemar, dreamed for years of building a home together. They left Poland in the 1980s, during the Soviet era, after losing their chance to buy a small plot near Warsaw to a member of the Communist Party. Disheartened but determined, they escaped through Italy, where they spent a period as refugees before being accepted to immigrate to Canada. They made Winnipeg their home.

Alien-looking cleome. localgardener.net

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Shapes created in gravel and pavers.

Foxtail fern thrives on the back deck.

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In 2009, with two young sons and a clear sense of purpose, they bought half an acre in Charleswood.

Waldemar took on the building himself, subcontracting what he couldn’t do, and once the house was complete, Ewa turned her attention outside. “As soon as we finished inside, we started outside,” she says. “Slowly, slowly, we kept adding.”

From the beginning, it was a true partnership. “He’s more of the designer,” Ewa laughs. “I’m the flower girl.”

Waldemar handles the layout and most of the physical work, while Ewa brings the garden to life with colour and bloom. “We’re about sixty-forty,” she says. “He builds, I plant.”

For Ewa, flowers are the soul of the garden. “They’re like music and dance to me,” she says. “I even play music for them; I think they appreciate good music.” The pathways wind between generous beds of perennials and shrubs, arranged so that something is always in bloom from spring to frost. From their dining room window, they can see splashes of yellow, burgundy and green framed by trees at the back of the yard.

The garden is both sanctuary and gathering place. In summer, they eat most of their meals outdoors. Friends often tell them the yard feels like a park or even a small resort. “That’s why we never wanted a cottage,” Ewa says. “We have everything we need right here.”

Waldemar’s hand is evident in every precise curve and contour. His paving patterns of circles and rings that ripple through the space give form to the garden without fences or hard boundaries. Paths and gravel terraces lead gently from one area to the next, linking the flower beds with quiet corners to sit and rest. His mix of brick, slate and river stone adds texture and contrast. The paving shapes the landscape as much as the plants do.

Behind the house, they’ve planted what Ewa calls their “little forest”. Spruce, maples, oaks, viburnum and Issue 1

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Brightly coloured foliage of coleus and trailing creeping Jenny.

Cleome and hydrangea. localgardener.net

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Potted cannas.

Cannas, rudbeckia and hydrangea.

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A hosta and a hydrangea.

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linden form a leafy backdrop for the garden beds. Each tree holds meaning. “We have oaks for our sons and for my sister, who passed away at 52,” Ewa says.

Not everything in the garden goes according to plan, though. A mature elm in the backyard has succumbed to Dutch elm disease. It’s a loss, but it inspires new ideas: Waldemar intends to leave the trunk standing and turn it into a sculptural feature. “He has a vision,” Ewa says.

“He wants to make it look like an umbrella, maybe with lights or a small sitting area around it.”

Over time, they’ve shifted toward perennials because they find them to be less work, less waste and more reward each year. “We used to buy annuals every spring,” Ewa says. “But it was a lot of digging and expense. Now we invest in perennials and let them grow bigger each season.” She prefers generous groupings to scattered single plants. “I like bundles,” she says. “I don’t like little things alone.”

The soil keeps them humble. Their yard sits on a mix of clay and loam, with a shaded patch that stays damp after rain. They add compost regularly and rethink drainage where needed. “We still have plans,” Ewa says.

“In winter, we draw ideas, and in spring, we make them happen.”

They rarely argue about the garden, though Ewa teases him about the digging. “He says, ‘You promised this would be the last one,’ and I say, ‘Okay’,” she laughs.

“But when the flowers bloom, he admits they’re beautiful.”

In Canada, the ability to own land, build freely, and shape their environment has proven to be everything they wanted. The garden, in that light, is more than a pastime; it’s a creative expression of freedom, stability, and belonging. “It makes our lives happier and easier,” Ewa says simply. “Life isn’t always easy, but the garden helps.” O A symphony in red with cannas, geraniums and calibrachoa.

A weeping tree, dramatic in its bareness. localgardener.net

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GARDEN INSPIRATION

A stone lantern in Kenrokuen is wrapped in layers of straw for winter, a traditional komo covering that shields delicate features from snow load and freeze–thaw damage.

Shauna’s Garden

Inspiration from Japan A visit to the Kenrokuen Garden in Kanazawa Story by Shauna Dobbie, photos by David Johnson

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n this spot of the magazine I have been writing about my own garden, what I’ve done and what I am planning. Regular readers probably know the rhythm of my yard by now, and since it is winter, I thought I would shift to a different sort of inspiration: a garden that teaches lessons by comparison. Last February, my husband David and I visited Japan and took a trip to Kenrokuen Garden in Kanazawa.

We lived in a small city near Tokyo for the first year of our marriage in 1990 and 1991, and this was my first return. Both trips were full of unexpected sensory shocks, but Kenrokuen stood out more this time, The iconic two-legged stone lantern of Kenrokuen, stands at the edge of Kasumigaike Pond, where its graceful shape can be reflected in the winter water.

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An ancient cherry tree in Kenrokuen is held up by wooden crutches and winter wrappings, part of the careful work that preserves the garden’s o

Visitors pause beneath the winter yukitsuri, where hundreds of ropes are stretched from tall poles to the branches of ancient pines to prevent them from breaking under snow.

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The Karasaki Pine extends its great branches web of yukitsuri ropes and wooden crutches localgardener.net

Short lengths of bamboo await their next task in Kenrokuen, where gardeners use them for edging, small supports and the inner frames of winter straw wraps.

oldest living treasures.

over the pond, supported each winter by an intricate to prevent breakage under snow. localgardener.net

perhaps because of the season. Most of our trip had mild weather with camellias and plum blossoms in full flower, but Kanazawa sits higher and gets regular snow in January and February, melting and falling and melting and falling. We got there in the middle of a morning snow shower with thick flakes falling; I was rueful at first.

Kenrokuen under fresh snow becomes a study in structure. The paths and lanterns take on new definition, the ancient pines carry soft clumps of white and the yukitsuri ropes rise like delicate cones from the tall bamboo poles to the branch tips. These supports keep the pines from breaking under wet snow, and in winter they give an other-wordly sculptural rhythm to the whole garden.

Because Kanazawa’s snow is frequent but rarely deep for long, the design emphasizes the beauty of a light snowfall rather than relying on a consistent blanket.

The ponds stay unfrozen, the paths hold quiet authority and clipped shrubs become rounded mounds that catch

Another look at this ancient tree and the intricate systems used to keep it alive.

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Moss, lichens and epiphytic ferns grow along the limb of an old tree in Kenrokuen, adding layers of texture that show just how long the garden has been tended.

An arched bridge spans the calm winter water, framed by snow-covered banks and young pines protected with their delicate yukitsuri supports.

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Heavy horizontal limbs of Kenrokuen’s Karasaki winter supports, combining yukitsuri ropes to preserve this centuries-old tree. localgardener.net

Midori Waterfall flows over moss-covered rocks in Kenrokuen, watched over by a tall pagoda-style stone lantern softened by winter snow.

Pine are held aloft by a forest of above with wooden crutches below

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A teahouse sits quietly on the edge of Kasumigaike Pond in Kenrokuen, its wooden structure reflected in the winter water.

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Clear winter water winds through moss-covered stones and bare trees in a quiet corner of Kenrokuen, where the garden’s paths and plantings reveal their structure under the snow.

The Flying Geese Bridge is a line of flat stepping stones arranged like geese in flight, revealed clearly under winter snow.

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the dusting. Winter exposes the gardeners’ hands in every branch, making the space feel both serene and intensely intentional.

Kenrokuen is built around six classical ideals.

Spaciousness describes broad views created through long sightlines and borrowed scenery. Seclusion comes from sheltered corners that offer calm. Craftsmanship appears in the bridges, lanterns, shaped trees and water features. Antiquity shows in old trees, weathered stone and traditional structures. Water courses through the garden in ponds, streams and falls. Panoramas come from changes in height that reveal shifting vistas.

I can claim some of these in my own yard. Spaciousness seems unlikely on a city lot, yet planting has made the space feel larger. Furniture in a room does the same. Borrowed scenery is harder. The boulevard trees help, but the brutalist apartment buildings beyond them stubbornly show up in every photograph.

Seclusion is easier. The front lawn remains open, but behind shrubs I have pockets where I can work unseen. An iron chair tucked in on this side of the dogwoods might become a hidden resting spot.

When we lived in Japan, a tiny temple garden near our apartment achieved this same sense of retreat by spiralling a path up a small rise. I used to sit there writing letters home.

Craftsmanship is something I want to commit to.

I’ve added an arbour and a few obelisks, but shaping trees is rare in most of Canada. In British Columbia, with its wealth of broadleaf evergreens, people often limb up shrubs to reveal the structure and bark. Done well, it’s beautiful.

Antiquity in my yard comes only from the house, built in 1905 – hardly antique. Rocks would carry this idea, but the boulders I want come at a steep price.

Unless Lotto 649 steps up, they will remain on the wish list.

Water features can be any size and are within reach.

A small container pond, a bamboo spout over a stone or even a birdbath would bring movement and sound. I simply need to begin.

Changes in topography, for panoramas, are not easy on the prairies and can look out of place. I get height from plants; you cannot gaze out at the panoramas from atop them, but they are what I have. I’m trying clematis on the arbour, though it may never climb far after a Winnipeg winter. Virginia creeper would do the job but I don’t love it. A grapevine might be the better choice.

In time, I hope to weave more quiet corners into the garden. Even without Japanese pines or elaborate slopes, my aim is to translate these principles. A garden shaped for winter, with strong bones and places to pause, can be inspired by a place half a world away. O

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