Canada's Local Gardener Vol 5 Iss 1

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Contents volume 5

Canada’s local Gardener

ISSUE 1, 2024

On the cover: A view from a garden in Charlottetown. Photo by David Johnson.

18 Writers and gardeners, read this .......................... 4 Hellebores .............................................................. 6 BC greenhouse selling 48 hellebore varieties this year................................................... 8 A View of Shalimar Bagh, Srinagar, from the Polier Album.......................................... 9 Pollinator seeds...................................................... 10 Hemlock tree..........................................................12 Ponytail palm........................................................ 14 Home invaders..................................................... 16 Starting seeds........................................................ 18 Seeds that are hard to germinate........................22 Hardening off seedlings........................................ 24

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Growing microgreens............................................26 Canadian seed catalogues.................................... 30 Birds in winter........................................................34 Cultivating memories........................................... 36 Plants to go with paint colours of the year for 2024...................................................... 38 Beautiful Gardens: Garden in Charlottetown....................................40 The Abkhazi garden, Victoria............................46 Susan and Mark Featherstone, Bradford, Ontario............................................. 52 Shauna’s garden...................................................60

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2024 • 3

Writers and gardeners, read this

Follow us online www.localgardener.net Facebook: @CanadasLocalGardener X: @CanadaGardener Instagram: @local_gardener Pinterest: @LocalGardenerMag YouTube: @LocalGardenerLiving

Published by Pegasus Publications Inc. President Dorothy Dobbie dorothy@pegasuspublications.net Editor & Publisher Shauna Dobbie shauna@pegasuspublications.net Art Direction & Layout Karl Thomsen karl@pegasuspublications.net Contributors Eric Bloom, Dorothy Dobbie, Shauna Dobbie, David Johnson, Gary Lewis, Terra Nova Nurseries, Veseys Seeds.

Editorial Advisory Board Greg Auton, John Barrett, Todd Boland, Darryl Cheng, Ben Cullen, Mario Doiron, Michel Gauthier, Jan Pedersen, Stephanie Rose, Michael Rosen, Aldona Satterthwaite, and Trudy Watt.

H

ave you ever thought about writing for a magazine? We would love to hear from you.

Canada’s Local Gardener is looking for people to write articles for us, with no experience necessary. Are you knowledgeable about gardening? And willing to do research to back up your knowledge? (I have often assumed I knew something only to look it up and find multiple reliable sources to tell me something else. You really need to research what you know!)

We do have an editorial plan for future issues of Canada’s Local Gardener, with vegetables, flowers, houseplants and design aspects to cover. I would be happy to share that with those interested in writing for the magazine. We also have some space to fit in other stories that you may be itching to write.

If you can provide images taken by you or someone you know (we credit the writer and the photographer on our articles), that is excellent. If you have no photos but a great story? We’ll do that too.

We are also looking for garden profiles – those stories at the back of the magazine about a gardener’s own Eden that tell about the person and what they have done with their space. Those stories require images and agreement from the gardener.

In either case, images should be high-resolution digital; your smartphone is probably taking pictures at a high resolution if it was new in the last decade. If you are a techie or have a friend who can help you, the number we need for publication is 300 dpi; in a jpeg, the minimum size is about 1.4 MB. We don’t pay for images or articles, but you will receive a copy of the print magazine and a 1-year digital subscription. Plus, you will have our undying appreciation and the chance to have your work read by people across the country!

If you’re thinking about it, please contact me at shauna@pegasuspublications.net. Let’s talk!

Shauna Dobbie, Editor 4 • 2024

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2024 • 5

Hellebores Story by Eric Bloom, images courtesy of Veseys Seeds

‘Whirlwind Romance’.

‘New York Night’.

anada's diverse climate offers unique opportunities for gardeners to experiment with a wide range of plants. One such plant that thrives in Canada's varying conditions is the hellebore. Hellebores, also known as Lenten roses, are exceptionally hardy and can bring vibrant colour to your garden during the dreary winter months. In this article, we will explore the joy of growing hellebores in Canada, their varieties, planting and care tips, and the countless ways they can transform your garden into a winter wonderland.

Understanding hellebores Hellebores, belonging to the Helleborus genus, are a group of perennial plants that offer a delightful splash of colour during the late winter and early spring months when most other plants remain dormant. These evergreen beauties are particularly well-suited to Canada's challenging growing conditions, thanks to their cold hardiness.

One of the most popular species is Helleborus orientalis.

Its striking, cup-shaped blooms come in a wide range of colours, from shades of white and cream to pink, purple, and even dark maroon. Hellebores are known for their distinctive nodding flowers, which hang gracefully on sturdy stems, making them an excellent choice for gardeners seeking elegance and charm.

Protecting the plant Typically listed as hardy to zone 4, zone 3 gardeners – and possibly zone 2 – can plant these beauties with certain care taken over the winter months. Look for warmer microclimates in your yard, like the eastern side of a stone fence or the foundation of your house. Conditions next to stone tend to be warmer because the stone soaks up the heat and retains it.

Mulch the plant very well in the fall. Under a thick, warm

blanket of leaves and snow, it should live to bloom another spring.

Another option is to grow hellebores in containers and squirrel them away to a less frozen spot for the winter, like an unheated basement.

Planting Hellebores are relatively easy to grow through much of the country, given their adaptability to varying climate zones. Here's how you can get started with these delightful winter bloomers.

Choose the right location. Hellebores prefer dappled shade or filtered sunlight, making them an excellent choice for woodland gardens, under deciduous trees, or along the north side of buildings. Well-drained soil is essential, as these plants don't tolerate waterlogged roots.

Planting time. In Canada, fall is an ideal time to plant hellebores. They need time to establish their roots before winter sets in. Late September to early October is generally recommended.

Soil preparation. Hellebores thrive in fertile, humus-rich soil. Amend the soil with compost or well-rotted organic matter to improve drainage and nutrient content. A slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 6.0 to 7.0) is suitable.

Spacing. Space hellebores approximately 18 to 24 inches apart to allow for adequate airflow and prevent overcrowding.

Planting depth. Plant your hellebores at the same depth as they were in their nursery pots. Avoid burying the crown, as this can lead to rot.

Varieties of hellebores Canada's varying climate zones make it possible to grow a wide range of hellebore varieties. Some of the popular ones include:

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6 • 2024

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Helleborus orientalis. The classic Lenten rose, known for its elegant flowers in various colours. These are considered hardy to zone 5.

Helleborus niger. The Christmas rose, which blooms in late winter with pristine white flowers. They are hardy to zone 3 or 4.

Helleborus foetidus. The stinking hellebore, featuring distinct chartreuse flowers and finely cut foliage. These are hardy to about zone 5 or 6.

Helleborus argutifolius. The Corsican hellebore, known for its pale green to yellowish flowers. These are the least hardy of the bunch, typically pooping out in climates below zone 7.

Helleborus x hybridus. A hybrid species with a wide range of flower colours and patterns, perfect for creating a unique hellebore collection in your garden.

Most of the hellebores you find at the nursery are H. x hybridus. If you find one at the store that you love but it doesn’t list a zone, ask a knowledgeable person at the garden centre. Chances are it is safe in the area where the garden centre is located.

Caring for hellebores Hellebores are known for their low-maintenance nature, but a little care can go a long way in ensuring they thrive in your Canadian garden: Watering. Keep the soil consistently moist, especially during dry periods. Water deeply but avoid waterlogging, which can lead to root rot.

Mulching. Apply a layer of mulch in the fall to protect the plants from harsh winter conditions and maintain soil moisture.

Fertilizing. Hellebores are not heavy feeders, but an application of balanced fertilizer in early spring can promote healthy growth and flowering.

Deadheading. Remove spent flowers to encourage the development of new buds and prolong the blooming season.

Pruning. Hellebores generally require minimal pruning.

In late winter or early spring, you can remove any damaged or unsightly foliage to promote new growth.

Why grow hellebores in Canada?

1. Winter colour: Hellebores are a gift to Canadian gardeners, bringing a splash of colour when most plants are dormant. Their blooms start to emerge in late winter, creat-

H

ellebores are native to Europe and Asia. They have a long history of cultivation, with their usage dating back to ancient Greece and Rome.

In Greek mythology, it is believed that the hellebore plant was used to cure madness. It was thought to have purging properties that could expel evil spirits or diseases from the body.

Hellebores were a staple in medieval European herbal medicine.

However, they were considered highly toxic and were used cautiously. In small doses, they were believed

localgardener.net

‘Wedding Bells’.

ing a delightful surprise in the garden.

2. Cold hardiness: Hellebores are well-suited to warmer areas of the country through the winters, with the ability to withstand frost and snow, making them a reliable choice. In colder areas, consult “Protecting the plant” above.

3. Evergreen foliage: Hellebores' dark green, leathery leaves provide interest in the garden year-round. Their evergreen nature ensures your garden remains appealing even in the depths of winter. That matters in areas of the country where the snow comes and goes through the cold months.

4. Versatile landscaping: Hellebores can be planted in various garden settings, from woodland gardens and shade gardens to container plantings. They pair beautifully with other early spring bloomers like snowdrops and daffodils.

5. Low maintenance: These plants require minimal care once established, making them an excellent choice for busy gardeners.

6. Longevity: Hellebores can live for many years, often improving with age, making them a sustainable addition to your garden. h

A brief history to be used as a treatment for various ailments, including gout and paralysis. However, they are toxic to humans and animals. Ingesting any part of the plant can cause severe gastrointestinal distress. It’s essential to handle them with care.

Hellebores’ journey from a medicinal herb to a popular garden plant began in the mid-19th century.

Horticulturists and garden enthusiasts started cultivating and breeding hellebores for their ornamental value, resulting in the wide range of varieties we have today.

Hellebores are known for their Issue 1

longevity. Once established, they can live for many years, and some gardeners report that their hellebores improve with age, producing more abundant and vibrant blooms.

They are relatively resistant to deer and many common garden pests, making them a great choice for gardens where these issues are prevalent.

Many hellebore varieties self-seed, gradually naturalizing in the garden and creating attractive drifts of these beautiful plants over the years. Of course, this is more likely in zone 5 and above.

2024 • 7

BC greenhouse selling 48 hellebore varieties this year Story by Shauna Dobbie, images by Gary Lewis of Phoenix Perennials

‘Blue Diamond’.

P

hoenix Perennials is a nursery located in the heart of Vancouver. It specializes in finding unique varieties of plants, and they operate a mail order business, so everyone in Canada can shop there.

This year they are pre-selling 48 different varieties of hellebore.

“The hardiest of all hellebores is the Christmas rose, Helleborus niger,” owner Gary Lewis says. “It is usually listed as hardy to zone 4 but many northern Ontario and Prairie gardeners have overwintered it just fine in zone 3, as long as they have good snow cover.” The three best to try are ‘Jacob’, ‘Jesko’ and ‘Josef Lemper’.

Gary offers that Helleborus x hybridus, sometimes called the Lenten rose, are listed to zone 5, so almost as hardy, and it is possible to overwinter them in the lower zones as well.

“My former production manager now lives in Winnipeg and has successfully grown and bloomed members of the Winter Jewels series.

She mulches them deeply with fallen leaves or straw, puts an upsidedown Styrofoam cooler on top of them, and then, through the winter, shovels snow off her deck on top of them.”

There is another group of hybrid hellebores known as snow roses. It include ‘Frostkiss’ and ‘Ice n’ Roses’.

They are generally listed as hardy to zone 5 but they are quite new so have not been tested as much at the lower zones. Gary suspects that they might survive in zone 4, especially any with H. niger in their parentage. h 8 • 2024

Cut hellebores in an outdoor pond.

‘Picotee Pearl’ is considered hardy to zone 5.

‘Cherry Blossom’ is part of the Winter Jewels series.

Downward facing hellebores

T

he Lenten roses’ flowers often face downwards, which is an evolutionary trait to protect them from wind, snow and rain.

Modern breeders have been working to make the sides of the petals we do see more attractive.

Gary Lewis from Phoenix Perennials doesn’t mind nodding hellebores, though. “I think there is something magical about a garden that makes you slow down and focus on its details. I have lots of Lenten roses in my garden and I love visitIssue 1

ing the flowers and bending over to lift up their little faces to see their beautiful forms.”

He recommends that you plant them at the top of a small slope or in large planter boxes if you want to see their faces better. You can also cut individual blooms and bring them inside. Float them in a bowl of water and they will last a good five days.

If you must have outward facing hellebores in your garden, look for Christmas roses and snow roses. localgardener.net

A View of Shalimar Bagh, Srinagar, from the Polier Album

A View of Shalimar Bagh, Srinagar, from the Polier Album, about 1780, by Hafiz Nurallah. Reproduced by permission of Phaidon. All rights reserved.

G

arden: Exploring the Horticultural World is a beautiful new book of older things published this year by Phaidon in the United Kingdom. The book tells the history of gardening through paintings, prints and photographs. Here is one of the entries.

One of the most famous of all the Mughal gardens of South Asia, Shalimar Bagh was created from about 1619 as part of the summer residence of Emperor Jahangir. An enclosed garden, it lies in a romantic setting close to the bank of Dal Lake near Srinagar in Kashmir, with formal flower beds, lawns and trees and narrow canals that channel spring water from the hills behind. Oddly, the lake does not feature in the painting, nor do the mountains that dominate the background of the real site, so it is possible localgardener.net

that the artist was inspired by the garden but created the work elsewhere.

The work of Mughal calligrapher Hafiz Nurallah, who served at the court of Asaf-ud-Daulah (Nawab of Awadh, 1775–97) in Lucknow, India, this beautifully framed illustration of Shalimar Issue 1

Bagh is from one of ten albums that belonged to Swiss engineer-architect Antoine Louis Henri Polier, a former officer of the British East India Company.

The Shalimar garden was later famously popularized in a love poem, Kashmiri Song by British poet Adela Florence Nicolson – beginning with the words ‘Pale hands I loved beside the Shalimar’ – which was published in 1901 under her pseudonym Laurence Hope and set to music by Amy WoodfordeFinden in 1902. Shalimar and the other Mughal gardens would have been peaceful, healthy places for relaxation and contemplation for the emperor and his court, a welcome retreat from the hot, dusty plains where they could admire the beauty of the surrounding natural landscape, as visitors still do to this day. h 2024 • 9

Marigolds.

T

‘Swizzle Scarlet and Yellow’ zinnias.

Pollinator seeds

hese annual pollinator-attracting flowers are easy to grow by directly sowing seeds in the garden. Throw a few seeds in around your veggie garden in the spring and watch the butterflies and bees all spring and summer long.

As with all seeds, it’s important to keep them watered until they sprout, and then deadhead regularly (once a week) to keep them blooming. Plant most of them about ¼-inch deep, except whether otherwise noted.

1. Marigold (Tagetes). Marigold seeds are relatively large and easy to handle. They germinate quickly and are quite hardy once established.

2. Zinnia. Zinnias are known for their ease of direct sowing. Their large seeds typically germinate

Common phlox.

10 • 2024

well, and they don't require a lot of special care.

3. Cosmos. Cosmos seeds are also easy to handle and tend to sprout easily when sown directly into the soil. They're quite adaptable and can tolerate different soil conditions.

4. Nasturtium (Tropaeolum). Nasturtium seeds are large and easy to sow. They often sprout readily and can thrive in various soil types. Plant these a little deeper, about ½ an inch.

5. Sunflower (Helianthus). Sunflower seeds are large and perfect for direct sowing. They germinate fairly quickly and can create impressive blooms. These need to be planted an inch deep.

6. Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima). Sweet alys-

Batchelor’s buttons.

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‘Double Click’ cosmos.

sum seeds are tiny but easy to scatter. They germinate well and quickly create low mounds of fragrant flowers. Just lay them on top of the soil and sprinkle about ¹∕8 of an inch of soil above them.

7. California poppy (Eschscholzia californica). California poppies are well-suited for direct sowing. Their seeds can germinate in cooler temperatures and they're quite adaptable. These little seeds don’t need to be planted very deep; ¹∕8-inch is deep enough.

8. Bachelor's button (Centaurea cyanus). Bachelor's buttons have larger seeds that are easy to sow directly.

They can tolerate a range of conditions and often selfsow.

9. Annual phlox (Phlox drummondii). Phlox seeds are easy to handle. They can germinate well when directly sown, creating colourful displays. Plant them about ¹∕8-inch deep. h

California poppies. localgardener.net

Nasturtiums.

Sunflowers.

Sweet alyssum.

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2024 • 11

Hemlock tree

Eastern hemlock.

W

hen people hear the word hemlock, they almost immediately think of poison, many associating the name with the drink that killed Socrates for what was deemed to be his corruption of youth by teaching them to question authority. This hemlock, Conium maculatum, is a plant that grows wild in wetlands across Canada in all provinces and it has nothing to do with the hemlock tree, except that its needles smell a bit like the leaves of the hemlock plant when both are crushed.

Far from being poisonous, the hemlock tree (Tsuga) has been used as a food source by First Nations: the inner bark was pounded into a kind of flour and used as a thickener, the gum was chewed, and the needles and small twigs have been used as a flavouring for chewing gum, soft drinks, ice cream and to make a delicious herbal tea which can be used also to relieve colds, coughs and fevers. High in vitamin C, hemlock tea is also said to help build immunity.

Hemlock is also prized for its tannins used to produce leather from hide.

There are two types of hemlock tree commonly found in Canada, the eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) and western hemlock (T. heterophylla). There is a third type, the mountain hemlock (T. mertensiana); it closely resembles western hemlock and grows at higher elevations in the mountains.

Eastern hemlock The eastern variety grows from the east coast of Canada to the Ontario-Minnesota border.

12 • 2024

Photo by Menchi.

Photo by Noah Poropat.

By Dorothy Dobbie

Western hemlock.

It has a pyramidal shape and is tolerant of sheering and shaping. The branches grow straight out from the trunk, drooping elegantly at the ends. Its shiny, flat needles with pale undersides fall in lacy sprays. The small cones are only ¾-inch long and remain soft and green until the seeds are ready for release in fall.

Eastern hemlock does well in part shade, growing to a height of 70 feet and width of 25 feet, preferring an acidic, well-drained soil of loam or sand. Its shallow roots make it sensitive to drought, so it is suggested that the home gardener protect the roots with a thick cover of mulch. It is hardy to zone 3.

Under the right conditions Tsuga can live a long time. The oldest specimen found so has lived to 1,500 years in Pennsylvania. It is slow growing and is considered a threatened species due to over harvesting and attacks from the wooly adelgid which feeds on the underside of needles and can kill the tree over time.

Western hemlock The western variety of hemlock, also known as Pacific hemlock, is common along the Pacific coast from Alaska to northern California and at elevations up to 1,500 feet.

It reaches 50 to 80 feet tall but can reach 200 feet and 25 to 40 feet wide. It generally lives up to 80 to 100 years, but some report that it can live much, much longer. The top of the tree is flexible, bending away from the wind. Like its eastern cousin, it doesn’t like drought, nor does it like prolonged heat, its shallow roots thriving in the cool, damp forests of Pacific Issue 1

localgardener.net

Photo by Rachel the cat.

Base of an eastern hemlock growing on rocks.

North America.

Western hemlock grows as the dominant species in its stands, alone or sheltered in the understory of Douglas fir, grand fir or western red cedar. It grows slowly in its youth but more rapidly as it matures.

Its needles are flat and similar to yew but be very careful because yew is poisonous except for the flesh of its red cones (but the seeds are poisonous). Hemlock needles are glossy, soft and dark green on the upperside but pale on the underside. They range from ½ to 1 inch long. Yew needles are very similar but look localgardener.net

Photo by Gmihail.

Photo by Gilles Ayotte.

Western hemlock growing on a stump.

Comparison of front and back of eastern hemlock needles.

for pointed tips on the needles while hemlock tips are blunt. Yew have rounded rather than oval cones.

Western hemlock has a narrow crown with feathery foliage on open, down sweeping branches. Under the right conditions and once established, it grows “like a weed” in sandy, loamy, or even clay soils. It is used as an ornamental in wet areas and along stream banks.

Some consider it to be one of the loveliest of evergreens. h Issue 1

2024 • 13

Ponytail palm

Photo by Tim Chapman, CEO of the International Peace Garden.

Story and photos by Dorothy Dobbie

Ponytail palm as a houseplant.

B

eaucarnea recurvata, the ponytail palm, is a wonderful plant for both the new indoor gardener and the hobbyist. It is easy to grow and can tolerate neglect but to bring it to bloom is a challenge that will be appreciated by any adventurous gardener.

Also known as the elephant foot tree or the bottle palm, it is neither a tree nor a palm, but rather an agave and a succulent that stores its water in the bulbous bottom-heavy stem known as the caudex. Out of this emerges a thick stem that will produce long strands of green that grow up then curve over like a girl’s ponytail, hence the name. Over time, or with help, the caudex will send up additional stems and in the wild this plant can grow 15 to 30 feet, a magnificent sight when in bloom with spires of creamy white (sometimes pink) showstopping flowers emerging from the centre of 14 • 2024

This one grows in the greenhouse at the International Peace Garden.

Stats

the stems above the palmy fronds.

For the novice, however, it is a forgiving plant that grows slowly and can withstand drought and even a lack of light although it thrives in sunlight or dappled shade if you give it a summer vacation outdoors.

In winter, water as little as once every two or three weeks and keep it pot bound to ensure that you don’t overwater it. Originating in the desserts of southeastern Mexico, it grows naturally in rocky, sandy, nutrient-deficient soil – although those coaxing it to bloom might give it a rich treat in the outdoors.

For the pot-bound plant, don’t fertilize more than once or twice a year.

How long can you keep it out on its holiday? It is hardy in the wild to -5 Celsius, but in the unpredictable Canadian climate, bring it in once the temperatures start to dip to 10 Celsius or so.

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Latin name: Beaucarnea recurvata, meaning “good harvest” and “curving” Native home: Mexico, particularly the state of Veracruz Native habitat: deciduous forest, in rocky, nutrient-poor soils, on cliffs and mountains Family: Asparagacaea, the asparagus family Height in the wild: 15 to 30 feet Height in your home: 6 or 7 feet Brown tips: a sign that you are overwatering or underwatering or the plant is getting too much sunlight Insects: scale, mealy bugs and spider mites; clean them off with water or kill bad infestations with a pyrethrin-based spray.

Photo by Kenraiz.

Ponytail palm will maintain its single stem for quite some time and that may be all you want to enjoy this odd plant, but to encourage additional stems on pot-grown plants, cut off the head and wait. Side stems should emerge after a couple of months if it is getting enough light.

You are taking a chance, though, because sometimes only one branch sprouts giving the plant a lopsided look. Try buying a baby plant and experiment with that.

Also, if your ponytail is happy, it may branch on its own, sending up new sprouts from the caudex as opposed to from the stem as happens when decapitating.

Remember, this is a succulent.

Do not overwater! When repotting, choose a new container that is one or two inches in diameter larger than the one you are replacing.

Propagation can be done from seeds but to collect your own seeds, that means flowering and all the expertise and luck required to get

Graceful blooms of a ponytail palm in the wild.

there. Some people are successful in harvesting a pup once it has developed roots. Just cut it off the mother plant with some sterilized sheers, treat the cut part with rooting compound then stick it in some potting soil generously amended

with perlite.

Remember, the biggest problem is with overwatering. Overwatering symptoms include brown tips and leaf drop. Underwatered plants can show limp leaves which eventually start to brown and curl. h

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2024 • 15

Home invaders

Photo by Ryan Hodnett.

By Shauna Dobbie

Cluster fly.

A

harmful to humans or pets, they can be quite a nuisance. To get rid of them, you can use fly traps or seal up any gaps or cracks in your walls and windows to prevent them from entering.

Asian lady beetles. These little red beetles seem harmless but can become quite the annoyance when they invade your home. They don't pose a threat to humans or pets either, but when disturbed, they can emit a foul-smelling liquid that stains. They like to spend winters in warm places like our homes. To deter them, ensure your doors and windows are tightly sealed,

and consider using a vacuum cleaner to suck them up.

Silverfish. These tiny, silvery insects like to feast on paper and fabric, making them a real nuisance in the winter. While they aren't dangerous to humans or pets, they can damage your belongings. To get rid of silverfish, keep your home dry and well-ventilated, and use traps or insecticides if needed.

House spiders. Spiders tend to hang around all year, but they might become more noticeable in the winter as they seek out warmth. Most house spiders are harmless to humans and

Photo by Cole Shoemaker.

h, the Canadian winter, a season of cozy fires, snowball fights, and, unfortunately, unexpected houseguests in the form of insects and other creepy crawlers.

While winter might make you think that these little critters have all gone into hibernation, some of them still find their way indoors. Here are a few you might see in winter… or any time of year.

Cluster flies. These are like the uninvited party crashers of the insect world. Cluster flies sneak into your home seeking warmth and shelter from the cold. While they're not

Asian lady beetle.

16 • 2024

Silverfish.

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Photo by Fwaaldijk.

Ant.

of them outside? Look away. They congregate in areas before winter, but they’ll be gone in a couple of weeks.

Pantry moths. These moths are incredibly small and often go unnoticed until you discover them in your kitchen cabinets or pantry. They earn their name from their preference for starchy foods like flour, grains and cereal. Unfortunately, they are not your dinner guests, but rather unwelcome pests that can contaminate your food. They usually come into your home as eggs in food that you’ve bought. Throw out any food they are infesting and only purchase groceries from shops that have high turnover. h

Photo by Adrian Tync.

spot them scurrying across your floor.

The good news is that they are not harmful to humans or pets and are actually beneficial in that they prey on other household pests like ants, spiders, and roaches. If you want to get rid of them, seal entry points and keep your home as dry as possible.

Box elder bugs. These bugs are a common sight outside during the fall near box elder trees, also known as Manitoba maples, and can sometimes make their way indoors during the winter. They are not dangerous to humans or pets but can become a nuisance due to their sheer numbers.

Vacuum them up if they bother you indoors. If you don’t like the sight

Photo by Kelisi.

pets, and they can even help control other insect populations. If you'd rather not share your space with them, you can remove them using a glass and a piece of paper or use spider repellents. Stepping on them also works.

Ants. Ants are resourceful little creatures. They can still find their way into your kitchen, even during the cold season. Some types of ants, like the odorous house ant, might be attracted to your food. To keep them at bay, store food in airtight containers and maintain a clean kitchen. If they persist, bait traps can help.

House centipedes. House centipedes are those fast, leggy insects that can give you quite a startle when you

House centipede.

Box elder bugs, congregating outside. localgardener.net

Pantry moth.

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2024 • 17

Starting seeds

By Shauna Dobbie

One of the golden rules of growing your own seeds – always label your seedlings! It’s easy to lose track.

S

tarting seeds indoors is a great way to get a head start on your garden, especially in regions with shorter growing seasons. Here's a step-bystep guide on how to start seeds indoors.

You’ll need: Seeds. Choose high-quality seeds from a reputable source. Read the seed packet for specific instructions on planting depth, spacing, and timing.

Getting seeds from a reputable source is essential for successful gardening, as it ensures the quality, viability, and accuracy of the seeds you purchase. An unreputable source, on the other hand, can lead to various problems and disappointments. (See sidebar).

Containers. You can use anything that can hold a starting mix, but you’ll want something with drainage holes that fits into something to catch the water that comes through the drainage holes.

You can choose to grow in small pots, egg cartons, yogurt cups or seedling pots. You can also get seeds started in soil blocks you make with a gadget, in cups you mould out of newspaper (a different gadget), or in dried, coin-sized pellets made of peat or coir that expands into a pot-sized item surrounded in mesh that will (presumably) disappear in the garden.

Seeds grown in these smaller pots must be “potted 18 • 2024

Clean pots, ready to start seeding!

up” when they get bigger, so why not just start in bigger pots? Different people will give different reasons, but the one that makes the most sense to me is that you have more control over the exact amount of water your babies get while they’re tiny seeds. You Issue 1

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A small block of dried, compressed coir.

can also fit more small pots onto a warming mat if you need to use one. (Some plants, like tomatoes, peppers and melons, do better on a warming mat; others don’t.)

Starting mix. Don’t use garden soil for starting seeds indoors; it is too heavy. Of course, seeds start in garden soil if you plant them outside, but you need to keep your indoor seed starting efforts super clean and sterile. Otherwise, just when everything seems perfect, your seedlings will get damping off.

More about that later.

Use a bag of planting medium labelled for starting seeds. Some have added nutrients and wetting agents. The mixes are usually made from peat, coir, perlite and vermiculite and are usually said to be sterile. Some gardeners prefer to make their own seed starting mixes, often including compost – which is

The same block, a few minutes after adding water and breaking it up.

not sterile unless you cook it.

Light source. Seeds need adequate light to grow into healthy seedlings. You can use a sunny windowsill, but a grow light is often better for consistent and strong growth.

You don’t need expensive grow lights. You can use standard density LED strips. I use three strips over a 12-inch-wide shelf and have plenty of light provided I keep the lights a couple of inches above the plants.

LEDs are ideal for this because they don’t give off much heat, which could singe your plants owing to the proximity of the light. They are also cheap to run for 14 to 16 hours per day, which plants need.

On the other hand, if you aren’t willing to take chances, shell out the cash for LEDs specifically for growing plants. They will do the job.

Nice to haves. A watering can with a very gentle

How to clean seeding containers

Cleaning last year’s pots.

localgardener.net

1. Remove old soil. If the containers have been used before, start by removing any old soil and plant debris.

Use a brush or your hands to shake out loose material.

2. Soak the containers. Fill a sink or large basin with warm water and add a few drops of mild dishwashing soap. Submerge the containers in the soapy water. This will help loosen any remaining soil and organic matter.

3. Scrub and rinse. After soaking for 30 minutes to an hour, use a scrub brush or sponge to clean the containers thoroughly. Pay attention to crevices and corners where soil can be trapped. Rinse the containers with clean water to remove all soap residue.

4. Disinfection. If you want to ensure that your containers are sterile, you can disinfect them using either bleach (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) or hydrogen peroxide (1 to 1). Soak the containers for 10 to 15 minutes then rinse them with clean water.

5. Air dry. Allow the containers to air dry completely before using them for planting seeds. Ensure that they are thoroughly dry to prevent mold or fungal growth.

6. Storage. Once dry, store the cleaned containers in a clean, dry place until you are ready to use them. Cover them with a clean cloth or plastic wrap to prevent dust and debris from settling on them.

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2024 • 19

sprinkler head or a spray bottle will be good for watering without disturbing the seeds. Alternatively, you can water them by filling your drip container with water, leaving the seedling cells to soak up the water, then dumping out any water left over.

A clear plastic dome or plastic wrap over your starting tray can help keep the immediate environment nice and humid for your seeds to germinate.

A heat mat is good for seeds that prefer a higher temperature to germinate. You used to be able to put those seeds on top of the fridge or TV, but modern fridges don’t give off heat and modern TVs are too thin.

Step-by-step instructions 1. Choose the right time. Check the seed packet and a gardening calendar for your region to determine the best time to start your seeds indoors. This will depend on the last frost date in your area. Do this for the city or town you live in, not for your zone.

2. Prepare your containers. Clean your contain-

ers. Wash them in mild dish soap using a scrub brush. You may want to disinfect them with bleach or hydrogen peroxide, too.

3. Fill them with the seed starting mix. Tamp it down into each cell to get rid of any big air pockets.

Many gardeners like to pre-wet their starting mix and you should too if yours is difficult to wet. If you’re using pods, soak the pods.

4. Plant the seeds. Follow the instructions on the seed packet for planting depth. In general, make a small depression in the soil with your finger or a stick, place the seed inside, and then cover with soil.

Label each container with the type of seed and planting date. Some gardeners like to plant two or three seeds per cell; I just plant one, but I always use brand new seeds.

5. Watering. Water your seeds gently, either from the bottom (by placing the containers in a tray with water) or by misting the soil's surface. Be careful not to dislodge the seeds. The soil should be consistently moist but not waterlogged. If you pre-moistened

Perlite.

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es, you can make your own seed starting mix at home.

Homemade seed starting mix allows you to have control over the ingredients and can be a cost-effective and environmentally friendly option. Here’s how to make your own seed starting mix.

Ingredients: Peat is short for sphagnum peat moss, which is partially decayed organic matter found in bogs.

Some gardeners prefer to avoid it because it is a non-renewable resource. It is excellent for retaining water.

Coir is made from coconut husk fibres. It is renewable and it also has excellent water-holding properties.

Vermiculite is a lightweight, heat-expanded mineral that 20 • 2024

Peat moss.

Image by KENPEI.

Image by KENPEI.

Image by Ragesoss.

Make your own starting mix

Vermiculite.

improves soil aeration, water retention, and nutrient availability, promoting healthier plant growth.

Perlite is a volcanic glass that enhances soil drainage and aeration.

Compost, which is optional.

Seeds don’t need nutrients to sprout, but plants need them to grow.

Instructions 1. Measure out the desired quantities of peat moss or coconut coir, perlite, and vermiculite.

You can experiment with different ratios to achieve the desired texture and moisture retention for your seedlings. The internet offers a wide range of mixes, from one part of each up to 8 parts of peat moss or coir and one part each of perlite and vermiculite.

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2. In a large container or wheelbarrow, combine the peat moss or coconut coir, perlite and vermiculite. Use a trowel or your hands to mix the components thoroughly.

Break up any clumps to create a uniform mixture.

3. If you want to add compost for added nutrients, make sure it’s well-rotted and free from contaminants. You can typically add compost at a rate of 10 to 20 percent of the total mix. One person on the web uses half coir and half compost with some perlite and vermiculite thrown in.

4. Gradually add water to the mix while stirring. The goal is to moisten the mix without making it overly soggy. It should have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge. If any water drips from your mix, you’ve added too much. localgardener.net

What is a reputable seed source?

your mix, you won’t need to do this now.

6. Cover and (maybe) provide warmth. Place plastic domes or cover your containers with plastic wrap to create a mini-greenhouse effect. This helps retain moisture. Seeds generally germinate best at temperatures between 18 and 24 Celsius. Some seeds prefer it warmer and some prefer it cooler.

7. Provide light. As soon as your seeds germinate, remove the cover and place them under a grow light or on a sunny windowsill. Seedlings need 14 to 16 hours of light per day. Adjust the light's height to keep it 2 to 4 inches above the seedlings.

8. Thin and transplant. When your seedlings have grown a couple of inches tall and have developed true leaves (not just the initial seed leaves), thin them out if multiple seeds have germinated in one container. Do this by cutting the extra seedlings with a sharp pair of scissors. Don’t try to pull them out because you will disturb the roots of the plant you want to keep. Transplant the strongest seedlings into larger pots if you started them in tiny seedling pots.

If you started them in larger pots, let them grow until it’s time to transplant them into the garden.

You can tell whether they are happy in their pots by gently removing one and looking at the roots; if the roots are starting to wind around the limits of the pot, transplant.

9. Harden off. This is the hardest part of starting seeds indoors for me! Read the article on page 24 for more information about hardening off seeds. h

T

hey are well-established companies or organizations known for providing highquality seeds that are true to type (they produce plants that match the description on the seed packet). Veseys, West Coast and Florabunda are just three examples of reputable seed companies in Canada, and there are many, many more.

Check out our guide on page 26.

Gardeners have reported getting all kinds of surprises when ordering seeds from companies outside of Canada and the USA. This is not an area to pinch pennies; order your seeds from your fellow countrymen and get what you’ve paid for.

The biggest seed companies will have a good number of varieties; you will be able to choose from ‘Mountain Red’, ‘Premio’ and ‘Big Beef Plus’ tomatoes among others, instead of just “slicing tomatoes” and “stewing tomatoes”. But don’t knock the smaller seed companies where you can often find uncommon varieties, like ‘Ananas Noire’, a huge heirloom tomato with green, purple and yellow flesh.

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2024 • 21

Seeds that are hard to germinate

By Shauna Dobbie

It’s not your imagination – some seeds are trickier to start than others – like the passionflower (requires light) and milkweed (requires stratification).

I

f you have no problem growing tomatoes and zinnias from seed, but celery and passionflower vine make you tear your hair out, I feel your pain. Some plants are just more difficult to start than others. If you can figure out what a particular seed needs, you’re halfway to succeeding.

Assuming you are using good-quality seeds that are new, there are six common reasons that seeds won’t get going. They are listed in the chart on the facing page Hard: hard seed coat. Some seeds have a very hard outer seed coat that prevents water and air from penetrating. This makes it challenging for the embryo inside to begin growing. Scarification, which involves breaking or weakening the seed coat, can often help with germination.

Strat: require stratification. Some seeds need to go through a cold period before germination. This is often the case with plants native to Canada.

Light: require light. A few seeds need light to 22 • 2024

germinate and won’t start to grow if they’re covered in soil. Others grow better without soil cover but will germinate in darkness.

Heat: require heat. Some – but not all! – require heat to germinate. This is the case with tomatoes, peppers and eggplants, but it is a well-known proclivity, so seed-starting gardeners have heat mats.

Slow: slow germination rate. Some seeds germinate just fine, given enough time. Keep them watered and wait.

Low: low germination rate. Some seeds naturally have a low germination rate, meaning that only a small percentage of them will sprout under ideal conditions.

This is often seen in wild species as a survival strategy.

Some seeds are difficult to germinate for more than one reason. Listed on the following page are several seeds that won’t easily germinate and the reason or reasons from above. If you have trouble starting common seeds that are not on the list, look them up on the Internet – and tell us what you found out! h Issue 1

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Hard

Strat

Light

Heat

Slow

Low

Ornamentals Begonia Bleeding heart Columbine Delphinium Echinacea Eryngium Hellebore Lavender Lily of the valley Lupine Artichoke seeds are slow to germinate.

Morning glory Milkweed Nasturtium Oriental poppy Pansy Passionflower Penstemon Peony Rose Scabiosa Snapdragon Sweet pea Trillium Yarrow

Echinacea seeds require stratification to germinate.

Edibles Artichoke Carrot Celery Cucumber Dill Eggplant Melon Okra Parsley Parsnip Pepper Squash Strawberry Tomato localgardener.net

Snapdragon seeds need light to germinate.

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2024 • 23

Hardening off seedlings H

ardening off seedlings is an important process in gardening and horticulture, especially when you're growing plants from seeds or starting seedlings indoors. It helps young plants transition from the controlled environment of your home or greenhouse to the harsher conditions of the outdoors. Hardening off is crucial because it helps seedlings become more resilient and adapt to fluctuations in temperature, humidity, wind, and sunlight.

Timing. Start hardening off your seedlings about a week or two before you plan to transplant them into your garden. The exact timing depends on the plant species and your local climate.

Choose the right time of day.

Begin by exposing your seedlings to outdoor conditions during the milder parts of the day, usually in the morning or early evening.

Move slowly. Take your babies outside for just an hour or two of outdoor exposure on the first day.

Place your seedlings in a sheltered, shaded area to protect them from direct sunlight, wind, and temperature extremes, or choose an overcast day with no wind. Gradually increase the amount of time your seedlings spend outdoors over the course of seven to 10 days. You can increase the exposure by an hour or two each day.

Monitor conditions. Pay attention to weather forecasts, especially nighttime temperatures. If frost is expected, bring your seedlings inside or provide protection.

Provide protection from elements. On windy days, make sure your seedlings are sheltered from strong winds. If the sunlight is intense, gradually introduce them to more sunlight but continue to provide some shade initially.

Water. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Outdoor conditions may dry out the soil faster, so monitor the moisture levels closely.

Observe. Watch for any signs of stress in your seedlings, such as wilting or yellowing leaves. If you notice these signs, give them more or less

24 • 2024

Tomato seedling, ready for hardening off.

A sheltered location like a porch is ideal for starting the hardening off process.

light exposure or water or time to acclimatize.

Variations for different plants Easy seeds. Some plants are more resilient and easier to harden off. These include sturdy vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and squash. They can tolerate a wider range of conditions, making the hardening off process more forgiving.

Plants that take longer. Some seedlings are more sensitive and may require extra care during the hardening off process. These include delicate herbs, flowers, and certain leafy greens like lettuce. It's crucial to be patient and extend the hardening off period for such plants.

Cold-season versus warm-season Issue 1

plants. Cold-hardy plants like broccoli, kale, and spinach can be exposed to cooler outdoor temperatures earlier in the spring. Warm-season plants like cucumbers and melons should be hardened off closer to the last expected frost date in your area.

Tender annuals and perennials. Tender annuals and perennials, particularly those that are native to tropical or subtropical regions, may need extended hardening off periods, as they are not well-suited to sudden changes in temperature or sunlight.

Gradually increase their outdoor exposure over 2-3 weeks.

Remember that the key to successful hardening off is a gradual transition.

This process helps prevent transplant localgardener.net

Not giving your plants a chance to acclimatize could permanently damage them.

Keep your seedlings well watered; they will dry out more quickly outside.

shock and ensures that your seedlings are prepared to thrive in their new outdoor environment. Each type of plant may require a slightly different approach, so it's essential to research the specific needs of the plants you're growing and tailor your hardening off process accordingly.

How do you know when to start?

Determining the right time to start hardening off your seedlings based on your local climate is a crucial step in the gardening process. Here are some ways to figure that out.

First, you need to know your last frost date. It is the most important piece of information you need. Just

type “average last frost date for [your city]” into Google or Bing. Then count back from your average last frost date to determine when to start your seeds and when to harden off seedlings.

Typically, you should begin the hardening off process 1-2 weeks before this date.

Ask your gardening friends and neighbours for their advice. Local gardeners and gardening clubs in your area can provide valuable insights based on their experiences. They may have specific advice or insights on the local climate that can guide your timing.

You absolutely must consider the

weather and what is forecast. It doesn’t matter if there hasn’t been frost on your hardening off date in 100 years; what matters is if there is going to be frost now. If you see that a cold spell or frost is expected even after your planned hardening off date, you may need to delay the process or provide extra protection to your seedlings on those days.

Keep in mind that gardening involves some uncertainty, and weather can be unpredictable. Be prepared to adjust your hardening off schedule based on the actual weather conditions. It's better to be cautious and protect your seedlings from unexpected cold snaps. h

The science of hardening off Thicker cell walls. When seedlings are exposed to outdoor conditions, they encounter variations in temperature, wind, and humidity. To cope with these changes, plants often develop thicker cell walls. This is a structural adaptation that provides the plant cells with more rigidity and helps protect them from environmental stressors.

Wax production. Many plants respond to outdoor conditions by increasing the production of a waxy cuticle on their leaves. This cuticle serves as a natural barrier, reducing water loss through transpiration and helping the plant conserve moisture in drier, windier outdoor environments.

UV protection. Outdoor exposure can lead to increased UV radiation, which can be damaging to plant tissues. In response, plants may produce compounds like anthocyalocalgardener.net

nins and flavonoids that act as natural sunscreens. These compounds provide protection against excessive UV light, reducing the risk of sunburn and cell damage.

Stronger root development.

When plants are hardened off, they often develop stronger and more extensive root systems. This is because they need to access more nutrients and water from the soil to support their growth and adapt to changing environmental conditions. Strong root systems are essential for plant health, as they provide stability and access to essential resources.

Resistance to pests and diseases.

Healthy, well-acclimated plants are better equipped to withstand disease and pest pressures. The adaptations developed during the hardening-off process, such as thicker cell walls and protective compounds, can make it Issue 1

more challenging for pests to damage the plants. Additionally, stronger root systems can help plants better absorb nutrients and fend off diseases.

Improved photosynthesis. The gradual exposure to natural sunlight during the hardening-off process allows plants to adapt to different light conditions. This often results in more efficient photosynthesis. As plants become acclimated to outdoor light, they can capture and convert solar energy more effectively, leading to healthier growth and higher yields.

Reduced transplant shock. The hardening-off process minimizes the stress and shock that plants experience when they are moved from controlled indoor environments to the outdoors.

By allowing plants to adjust gradually, the risk of transplant shock is significantly reduced, and this leads to healthier, more resilient plants.

2024 • 25

Growing microgreens Story and photos by Shauna Dobbie

26 • 2023

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Y

ou know that feeling of pride and wonder you get when you see the miracle of your freshly sprouted seeds reaching up from the soil? They are so perfect, these tiny plants! If only they would stay that way.

You can get that feeling all the time by growing microgreens indoors.

Microgreens are plants you harvest and eat when they get their first true set of leaves. At this point, plants are tender and sweet – or piquant or citrusy; microgreens usually have the taste of their adult counterparts but in a fresher form. You may have tried them at a high-end restaurant, or you may have shooed them to the side of your plate, thinking they were only for garnish. Of course, you may have been eating them for years already!

What you can grow Any veggie plant with edible leaves you can grow as a microgreen. This includes all of the culinary herbs: basil, cilantro, parsley, chives, chervil and so forth. It also includes lettuce, kale, spinach and arugula. There are other vegetables with edible foliage you may not have thought of, like peas, beets, sunflowers, mustard, cucumbers, melons and broccoli.

And there are cereal seeds you can grow, including corn, wheat, barley, oats and rice.

Plants with inedible leaves you must not try include: tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and potatoes.

Any plant you are thinking of trying, look online first. But be careful; if you look for “rhubarb microgreens”, you will see there is a variety of kale called ‘Rhubarb’.

Kale ‘Rhubarb’ is good for growing microgreens, but the rhubarb plant (Rheum) is not.

Organic seeds When ordering seeds to grow for microgreens, you must ensure that they are not treated with anything like fungicides before they get to you. I have no problem choosing standard seeds or pelleted seeds for my garden, but for microgreens, you need organic seeds; the tiny plants you eat are not so far from the seed stage as to be rid of anything they’ve been treated with.

If you search for “microgreen seeds Canada” you will come up with a variety of mail-order places across the country that package seeds specifically for this purpose. You can localgardener.net

use any organic seeds, but you’ll need more of them for microgreens than you would for mature plants.

Chances are that seeds packaged for microgreens will be cheaper on a per-seed basis.

Speed and difficulty Some microgreens grow faster than others. If you want a quick harvest, opt for varieties that have a shorter time to maturity. Radishes, for example, are known for their rapid growth and can be ready in as little as seven to 10 days. Celery, on the other hand, has fantastic microgreens but it’s a long haul to grow it to an acceptable size.

Flavour Microgreens come in various flavours, textures, and colours.

Choose varieties that you enjoy and that suit your culinary preferences.

Popular options include arugula, basil, broccoli, radish, mustard greens, kale, chard, cilantro, and sunflower.

They can have intense flavour, so choose what you love to eat in the adult form. Arugula is peppery, radish is spicy, peas are sweet and crunchy.

Growing kits make growing microgreens easy.

Nutritional value Microgreens are packed with nutrients. According to scientific studies (Yadav et al. 2019; Xiao et al. 2012) microgreens may contain more minerals and vitamins by weight than their grown-up counterparts. If you are looking to boost a particular nutrient in your diet, do a little research into what microgreens contain it.

How to do it You can grow microgreens in

Scan me Check out this website to find out the nutritional value of microgreens https://marketgnomes.com/pages/microgreensnutritional-information

seed-starting mix or on fibre pads made of hemp, coir or any number of things. Seed-starting mix is reusable and doesn’t require added nutri-

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2024 • 27

ents. Fibre mats, on the other hand, are not reusable, but they keep dirt out of your microgreens. They are also light and not messy. Nonetheless, we’ll use seed-starting mix in our example.

Choose a container the size you want. There are many for sale

specifically for the purpose of growing microgreens, but you can grow them in anything you want. It is helpful to have two containers: one with holes in the bottom that fits inside another so you can water from the bottom.

Fill your container with about 1

After a few days, harvest and enjoy!

28 • 2024

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to 2 inches of seeding mix. Wet the mix; some of them are difficult to water the first time. Get the mix moist throughout but not dripping.

Some seeds can be soaked before planting, including sunflower, wheat and peas. It’s easier to plant smaller seeds if you don’t soak them first.

Scatter seeds over the mix. You’ll want to place seeds densely, far more than you would for growing mature plants. For most seeds, cover with a thin layer of seeding mix and spray gently with water.

Put them next to a south-facing window or under grow lights. You can cover them with a dome to keep the planting medium moist until they sprout if you like. Most seeds will germinate within about five days. You should take the dome off and make sure they have plenty of light once you can see some green poking up.

Keep your tiny garden watered (moist but not waterlogged) while you watch the seedlings grow to a couple of inches high, with one to two sets of true leaves. They should reach this point in a week or two, depending on the variety.

To harvest, cut them with a sharp pair of scissors right before you need them. Most microgreens don’t store well, so it’s better to keep them growing until you’re ready to eat them.

Once everything in a tray is harvested, you can stir up the seeding mix with the roots and use it again once or twice. If it starts to grow mold or your seeds don’t grow with the same speed and vigour, dump the mix into the compost or onto your garden and use fresh seed-starting mix. h

localgardener.net

It’s as easy as 1-2-3!

S

prouts are slightly different from microgreens. You can think of edible plants on a continuum: seed, sprout, microgreen, mature green. The sprout is the newly germinated seed.

You can grow microgreen seeds as sprouts and vice versa. All you need is a sprouting jar or a clean jar and bit of screen you can fasten onto it with an elastic band as a lid.

Use filtered water or tap water that has been sitting for a day to allow chlorine to dissipate.

1. Rinse. Measure the desired amount of seeds (usually about 1 to 2 tablespoons) and rinse them thoroughly in a fine-mesh sieve under running water.

2. Soak. Place the rinsed seeds in your sprouting container and

Keep in touch with Canada’s Local Gardener online!

Growing sprouts cover them with water. Allow them to soak for the recommended time (usually 8 to 12 hours or overnight).

Soaking softens the seed coat and kick-starts germination.

3. Drain. After soaking, drain the water from the seeds. Use a finemesh sieve or the drainage system built into your sprouting container.

Ensure all excess water is removed.

4. Rinse and drain. Rinse the seeds thoroughly with fresh water.

Swirl them around in the container to ensure even distribution of water.

Drain again, ensuring no standing water is left.

5. Begin sprouting. Place the container in a location with indirect light or on a countertop out of direct sunlight. Different seeds have different ideal temperatures, but

generally, room temperature is suitable for most sprouts.

6. Rinse and drain daily. Twice a day (or as needed), rinse the sprouts thoroughly with fresh water and drain them. This helps prevent mold or bacterial growth and keeps the sprouts fresh.

7. Harvest. Depending on the type of sprouts, they will be ready to harvest in two to 10 days. Harvest when the sprouts have reached the desired length and have just begun to develop their first set of true leaves. Typically, sprouts are 1 to 3 inches long.

8. Storage. Once harvested, store the sprouts in the refrigerator in a clean, airtight container or plastic bag. Use them within a few days for the best taste and freshness.

A Collection of Culinary Memories, a new cookbook from our resident foodie Ian Leatt featuring 196 pages of nostalgia-fueled recipes is coming soon!

Pre-order a tasty copy for yourself at a special reduced price of only

$25.00

for a limited time only!

Plus taxes and shipping.

Call us at 204-940-2700 to reserve your copy! www.localgardener.net Facebook: @CanadasLocalGardener Instagram: @local_gardener X: @CanadaGardener

localgardener.net

Sponsors: Veseys Seeds Ltd.

For every copy sold through Veseys, Pegasus and Veseys will donate one dollar to the Food Banks Canada organization.

Issue 1

2024 • 29

Canadian seed catalogues

W

It’s time to order your seeds for 2024!

Krestova Winnow Seed Company winnowseedco.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

e believe that this list is up to date as we go to press. We aim to include every seed order business in Canada. If we have missed any, or if any are no longer in business, please let us know. Email shauna@pegasuspublications.net

Metchosin Metchosin Farm Seeds metchosinfarm.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

•••

Black Creek Good Earth Farms goodearthfarms.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Pale lavender grey bush bean is very rare and available at Moonglow Gardens.

Mission Ferncliff Gardens ferncliffgardens.com Dahlias! Dahlias! Celebrating their 104th year providing Canadian gardeners with premium Dahlias! Located in Mission, BC, Ferncliff Gardens’ catalogue is a wonder to behold.

If you are a serious collector of dahlias, this is the place to go. If you are new to dahlias, consider one of their special collections; you’ll be hooked!

Dahlias

Columbia Valley Tatiana’s Tomatobase tatianastomatobase.com Tomatoes

Kamloops SSOL Gardens ssolgardens.com Vegetables

Pemberton Across the Creek Organics acrossthecreekorganics.ca Seed potatoes

Comox Valley Ravensong Seeds and Herbals ravensongherbals.com Artisanal herbs, flowers and leafy greens

Kamloops Laughing Swan Farm laughingswanfarm.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Powell River Eternal Seed eternalseed.com Heirloom vegetables, herbs and flowers

Creston Garden Girl Seed gardengirlseeds.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Kelowna Sunshine Farm sunshinefarm.net This is a farm that offers vocational development opportunities to adults in the Community Living sector. They sell several certified organic seed varieties online.

Vegetables, herbs, flowers and grains

Protection Island Small Island Seed Company smallislandseedco.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers

British Columbia Aldergrove BC Eco Seed Co-op bcecoseedcoop.com Vegetables, ornamentals, herbs and grains

Delta West Coast Seeds westcoastseeds.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Fanny Bay Twining Vine Garden twiningvinegarden.com Vegetables, herbs, flowers, trees and shrubs

Saanichton Saanich Organics saanichorganics.com Seeds of the Revolution is a trusted source for high-quality, open-pollinated seeds. Their organic seed is grown with care on small west coast farms and shipped all across Canada.

This company strives to strengthen local seed systems through education and collaboration with fellow growers. Their online catalogue offers familiar favourites and hard-to-find varieties to satisfy everyone from balcony gardeners to commercial farmers.

Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Gabriola Sweet Rock Farm sweetrockfarm.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Salt Spring Island Eagleridge Seeds eagleridgeseeds.com Heirloom vegetables, herbs and flowers

Errington Seedsaving seedsaving.ca Vegetables

30 • 2024

Roots of skirret, which are edible and available at Small Island Seeds.

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localgardener.net

Salt Spring Island Salt Spring Seeds saltspringseeds.com This company has been around for over 30 years. They sell heirloom and organic seeds, all produced on and around Salt Spring Island.

Their focus is on sustainability and becoming self-reliant.

Vegetables, herbs, flowers and grains Salmon Arm Choked Up chokedup.ca Jerusalem artichoke bulbs

Manitoba Brandon Lindenberg Seeds lindenbergseeds.ca This is one company that still does things the old fashioned way: print off the order form from their website and you can fax it to them.

Since 1935, the philosophy has been to supply quality seed at a fair price.

‘Reif Red Heart’ tomato, shaped like a heart, is available at Heritage Harvest Seed.

Sardis BC’s Wild Heritage Plants bcwildheritage.com BC native shrubs, ferns and herbs

Lethbridge Wild Rose Heritage Seed wildroseheritageseed.com Heirloom vegetables, herbs and flowers

Sooke Full Circle Seeds fullcircleseeds.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Red Deer County Eagle Creek Seed Potatoes seedpotatoes.ca Seed potatoes

Vancouver Island Bumble Seeds bumbleseeds.com Vegetables, flowers, fruits, herbs and succulents

Sturgeon County Moonglow Gardens growersblend.ca Vegetables and flowers

Vernon Manhattan Farms manhattanfarms.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Turner Valley CoCreative Seeds cocreativeseeds.com Vegetables and flowers

Victoria Brother Nature Heirloom Seeds brothernature.ca Heirloom vegetables, herbs and flowers

Wembley Bright Bush Farm brightbushfarm.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Victoria Rebecca’s Garden rebeccasgarden.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Alberta

Saskatchewan Parkside Mumm’s Sprouting Seeds sprouting.com Seeds for sprouts

Cherhill A’Bunadh Seeds abunadhseeds.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Saskatoon Early’s Farm and Garden Centre earlysgarden.com Early’s has been serving Saskatchewan growers with quality products and expert advice for over 115 years. Early’s has one of the largest garden seed selections available all year long! Perfect for spring prep, or winter indoor gardening too! While placing your seed order on their website, you can check out their other gardening supplies, as well as lawn, yard care, pet and livestock items as well!

Two retail locations open year-round Vegetables, herbs, flowers, grass

Leslieville Beautiful Blooms beautifulblooms.ab.ca Vegetables, herbs, flowers and native plants

Wroxton No Coast Seeds nocoastseeds.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Airdrie Casey’s Heirloom Tomatoes caseysheirloomtomatoes.ca Tomatoes Calgary Circle Farms Heirloom Seeds circlefarms.ca Vegetables, herbs, flowers and grasses

localgardener.net

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Vegetables, herbs and flowers Brandon Oak Summit Nursery oaksummitnursery.ca Flowers, herbs and trees

Fisher Heritage Harvest Seed heritageharvestseed.com Heirloom vegetables, flowers, herbs and grains Headingley T&T Seeds ttseeds.com Vegetables, herbs, flowers, trees and shrubs Lorette Tiny Monster tinymonstergarden.com Vegetables Winnipeg Sage Garden Greenhouses sagegarden.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Ontario Blyth The Secret Garden thesecretgardenonline.org Here at The Secret Garden, we specialize in beautiful flowers. We offer a special curated line of flower seeds available for order in our online shop which are shipped across Canada.

All of our product is grown right here on our farm, offering you a slice of beauty from our enchanting world!

Flowers Bruce Peninsula Franken Farm frankenfarm.ca Vegetables and flowers Caledonia Matchbox Garden Seed Company matchboxgarden.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers Cookstown Stems Flower Farm stemsflowerfarm.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers 2024 • 31

Thunder Bay Superior Seed Producers superiorseedproducers.wordpress.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Eastern Ontario Norton Naturals nortonnaturals.com Wild edible plants

Toronto Berton Seeds Company Ltd bertonseeds.ca Italian vegetables, herbs and flowers

Fergus Seeds of Imbolc seedsofimbolc.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers Foxboro Terra Edibles terraedibles.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers Goodwood Richters Herbs richters.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers Gore Bay Three Forks Farms threeforksfarms.com Vegetables and flowers Guelph Saturday Seed Company saturdayseedco.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers Keene Florabunda Seeds florabundaseeds.com Since 1999 Florabunda Seeds has specialized in Non GMO, Non Hybrid, Untreated, Interesting & Unusual, Heirloom Flower, Vegetables & Herb seeds. Free catalogue upon request.

Vegetables, flowers, grasses Kingston Heritage Seed and Produce heritageseedandproduce.com Vegetables Kitchener OSC oscseeds.com Vegetables, herbs, flowers, turf and trees Lynden Agro Haitai agrohaitai.com Asian vegetables Mildmay Carrick Seeds carrickseeds.ca Vegetables and grains

32 • 2024

Photo by Linda Whalen.

Dundas William Dam Seeds damseeds.com Vegetables, herbs, flowers, vines and grasses

Livingston daisies, available at The Seed Company.

Mildmay Garden Alchemy Seeds gardenalchemyseeds.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers Mount Forest Hawthorn Farm Organic Seeds hawthornfarm.ca vegetables, herbs, flowers, grains and grasses Nipissing Piebird Farm Sanctuary store.piebird.org Vegetables Oro-Medonte Bass Lake Farms basslakefarms.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Toronto Pepper Merchant peppermerchant.net Hot peppers Verona Bear Root Gardens bearrootgardens.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers Warkworth Urban Harvest uharvest.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers Whitefish Northern Wildflowers northernwildflowers.ca Wildflowers Wolfe Island Kitchen Table Seed House kitchentableseedhouse.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Quebec

Ottawa Gaia Organic Seeds gaiaorganics.ca Vegetables, herbs, flowers and grains

Beaumont Les Semences du Batteux lessemencesdubatteux.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Ottawa Greta’s Organic Gardens www.seeds-organic.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Boileau La Ferme de l’Aube lafermedelaube.com Vegetables, fruits, herbs and flowers

Peterborough Urban Tomato urbantomato.ca Vegetables and flowers

Les Cedres La Ferme Cooperative Tourne-Sol fermetournesol.qc.ca Vegetables, herbs, flowers and grains

Port Hope Natural Seed Bank seed-bank.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Farrellton Northern Seeds northernseeds.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

South Gillies Root Cellar Gardens rootcellargardens.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Granby Zombie Seedz zombieseedz.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Thorold Stokes Seeds stokeseeds.com/ca/ An American company owned by a Canadian and operated out of Buffalo and New Jersey.

Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Joliette Natural Seeds naturalseedscanada.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers

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localgardener.net

Kamouraska La Société des Plantes lasocietedesplantes.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Saint-Damien Les Jardins de l’Ecoumène ecoumene.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Laval WH Perron whperron.com/en Formerly Dominion Seeds.

Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Saint-Didace Semences du Grand-Portage semencesduportage.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Longueuil Les Semences la Campagnarde lacampagnarde.ca Vegetables, herbs, flowers, trees and shrubs Montreal Akène culture forestière akene.ca Herbs, flowers and medicinals Montreal Hortinova Seeds hortinova.ca Vegetables Montreal Mount Royal Seeds mountroyalseeds.com Trees and shrubs Montreal Terre Promise terrepromise.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers Repentigny Solana Seeds solanaseeds.netfirms.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers Rimouski Le Jardin de Julie jardindejulie.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers Sainte-Agathe-de-Lotbinère Jardin des Vie-la-joie vielajoie.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers St-Appollinaire Le Potager Ornemental de Catherine potagerornemental.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers Sainte-Claire Croisee des Cultures croiseedescultures.com Vegetable and flowers Saint-Cuthbert Semences Nouveau Paysan nouveaupaysan.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers localgardener.net

Sherbrooke Jardins de la Gaillarde jardinsdelagaillarde.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers Stanbridge East Le Noyau Semences lenoyau.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers

PEI York Veseys Seeds veseys.com Founded in 1939, Vesey’ Seeds Ltd. is Canada’s largest, family-owned, mail order gardening company. Specialists in vegetable, herb, organic and flower seed, Vesey’s also offers Canada’s widest range of both spring and fall planting bulbs and perennials. In addition to seed and plant material the company has an extensive line of gardening tools that range from greenhouses to planting accessories. Now celebrating 85 years of serving Canada’s home and market gardeners, all catalogues are free and may be requested on line or by calling 1-800363-7333. As their guarantee states “If you are not completely satisfied with your order upon delivery, Vesey’s will replace or refund with no questions asked”.

Vegetables, herbs and flowers

New Brunswick Harvey Atlantic Pepper Seeds pepperseeds.ca Peppers Roachville Rainbow Seeds rainbowseeds.ca Vegetables and flowers

St. John’s The Seed Company by EW Gaze theseedcompany.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

Nova Scotia Annapolis Royal Hope Seeds and Perennials hopeseed.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers Blockhouse Seed to seed seedtoseed.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers Bridgewater Incredible Seed Company incredibleseeds.ca Vegetables, herbs, flowers, trees and shrubs Halifax Halifax Seed Company halifaxseed.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers Jeddore Sow Local Seeds sowlocalseeds.ca Heirloom vegetables, herbs and flowers Laconia Yonder Hill Farm yonderhillfarm.ca Vegetables, herbs, flowers and grains Moshers Corner Revival Seeds revivalseeds.ca Vegetables, flowers and herbs Nictaux Annapolis Seeds annapolisseeds.com Vegetables, grains, herbs and flowers Upper Stewiacke Cochrane Family Seeds cochranefamilyfarm.com Vegetables, herbs and flowers Windsor Howard Dill Enterprises howarddill.com Pumpkins, gourds, squash; home of the ‘Dill’s Atlantic Giant’ pumpkin

Weldon Mapple Farm mapplefarm.com Vegetables

Newfoundland and Labrador St. John’s Perfectly Perennial perfectlyperennial.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

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Wallace Bay La Finquita lafinquita.ca Vegetables, herbs and flowers

2024 • 33

Birds in winter

By Dorothy Dobbie

O

ne way to stay in touch with nature throughout the winter is to feed the birds.

And if you are worried when you see a lonely robin, don’t be. Some birds that normally migrate choose to stay put from time to time. Among these are robins but also crows and some goldfinches.

Our winter back yards can be filled with feathered friends such as cardinals, blue jays, wrens, cedar waxwings, downy woodpeckers, and chickadees. Depending on your location, you may also see some house finches, purple finches, evening grosbeaks, common redpolls, pine siskins and dark-eyed juncos. How can you attract them to your yard and add life and entertainment while making their existence easier?

Keeping warm Birds are pretty good at protecting themselves from the weather. Have you ever wondered how they keep their legs and feet warm? The answer is, they don’t. Their legs and feet have very little fluid in them to freeze, as they consist mostly of bones and tendons with few nerves. As a fail-safe from cold feet discomfort, they have a very clever heat exchange and circulation system. What little blood does flow to the feet and becomes cold, is warmed upon entering the body by proximity to warm blood flowing from the body down to the feet.

That way, the bird doesn’t get chilled from cold feet blood flowing directly into the body. Additional strategies include their ability to cover their feet and legs with their bodies or stand on one leg at a time and curl the other one up where it is warm.

How do they keep their bodies warm?

Their well-groomed feathers are nestled in down that traps pockets of insulating air. Late summer and fall gorging adds layers of fat. Birds also shiver to keep warm and cuddle up in roosts to share body heat. Still, having a high metabolic rate, they must also replace the fat they burn every day.

At night, some birds allow their temperatures to drop, and others look for a place to huddle together or find shelter in a hollow tree or under 34 • 2024

Northern cardinal.

Blue jay.

Cedar waxwing.

shrubs, in evergreens and even in hollowed out snow.

A garden that has dense shrubbery or plenty of cedar or other thick evergreens will provide shelter. Some people put up roosting boxes.

Food is the important thing.

Consider the black-capped chickadees, a tiny bird weighing less than half an ounce. They maintain a body temperature of 100 Fahrenheit even when the temperatures are below freezing. To do this, they must eat 35 percent of their weight every day.

Interestingly, the brains of chickadees get 30 percent larger (suggesting they get smarter) when it gets cold so that they can remember where they have stored their food, which could include caches of hibernating grubs.

The fattier the food the better.

Black oil sunflower seeds, preferably deshelled, are a good option for most winter birds. Every bird, even finches that normally flock to the nyjer feeder, seem to prefer the black oil sunflower seeds.

Nuts are favoured by some and,

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Purple finch.

if feeding peanuts, deshelled, roasted and definitely unsalted are best, although some birders advise against feeding peanuts.

Suet is a good source of energy.

Suet is the hard white fat on the hearts, kidneys and loins of cattle, sheep, and other animals. You can probably get some from your butcher. Common fat breaks down too fast to do the bird much good.

Cracked corn attracts jays and others. I have seen red-winged blackbirds, who normally nest in the countryside, come to town to visit my feeder for a cracked corn treat. Sparrows also enjoy it, as do squirrels.

All birds have a varied diet, even those that are primarily seed eaters need variety in their diet. Dried mealworms provide protein that most birds appreciate.

Rice is another inexpensive alternative that some birds enjoy as part of a varied diet. Brown rice is nutritious, and they love wild rice (a grass seed),

Male red-winged blackbird. localgardener.net

Black-capped chickadee.

although it can be expensive. Barley, cooked or raw, is another delicious addition to the feeder. You can mix both these ingredients with commercial bird food. Oats and quinoa are additional alternatives.

You can offer fruit: grapes, sliced oranges, apples and even bananas can be a real treat. You can also serve dried fruits such as raisins or cranberries but soak them in water first to soften them.

What not to feed Stay away from those commercial mixes with all sorts of tiny seed balls in them. Most of it is garbage.

Don’t offer bread, which can affect the bird’s digestive system. Potato chips are taboo for salt and other reasons.

Lard-based products, such as bacon fat, are not good ideas. Bacon in particular contains salt and other additives that should be avoided.

Jays may steal pet food, but it has little useable nutrition for them.

Just as with humans, all animals will eat things that are not too good for them, but just because they like something doesn’t mean they should be eating it.

Feeding habits When feeding birds, remember what their feeding habits are. Chickadees are ground feeders, so put their food on a platform.

Another rule of thumb is to consider the size of the bird. Will the feeder you are using accommodate a larger bird such as a cardinal or a blue jay?

Bird feeders that have a sheltering cover or roof can keep snow out of the food. Clean the feeders from time to time.

What about water?

Most birds can find water on their own, but they do enjoy a heated birdbath. And yes, they do bathe in winter. Heated birdbaths are available in bird stores. You might want to add some rocks or other features to the bath as a perch. h

Downy woodpecker.

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2024 • 35

Cultivating memories How and why to keep a garden journal

By Shauna Dobbie

Cultivate memories and get creative with a garden journal while keeping track of those things you need to remember.

I

n the ever-changing canvas of your garden, a garden journal serves as the brush that captures the strokes of nature, growth, and the passage of time. Whether you are a seasoned horticulturist or a budding enthusiast, maintaining a garden journal can be a transformative experience that not only deepens your connection with your green space but also provides a valuable resource for future endeavours.

A garden journal serves as a personal narrative, weaving together the threads of your gardening journey.

It creates a tangible connection with your green space, allowing you to reflect on experiences, triumphs, and hurdles, fostering a profound relationship with your plants.

Beyond personal enrichment, a garden journal acts as an evolving textbook for horticultural learning.

Documenting your gardening practices and their outcomes provides a valuable repository of knowledge. Analyzing successes and setbacks becomes a roadmap for refining skills, making informed decisions, and continuously improving as a gardener.

The journal becomes a time-traveling guide for seasonal planning.

By revisiting past entries, you can 36 • 2024

Scan me Check out this video to find out how to create a bullet journal tracker for the vegetable garden. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTpl57vQOUU

anticipate challenges, plan for specific blooming periods, and ensure a harmonious display of colour and life in your garden throughout the seasons.

In moments of unexpected issues, such as pest infestations or diseases, the garden journal transforms into a

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personalized troubleshooting manual.

The lessons learned from past experiences equip you with the knowledge needed to address challenges promptly and effectively.

What could go into a garden journal Plant profiles. Begin by creating profiles for each of your plants. You can include details such as the plant's scientific and common names, date and place of purchase, date of planting, and specific care requirements.

This section acts as a comprehensive reference, allowing you to track the progress and individual needs of each green inhabitant.

Weather observations. Documenting weather patterns is crucial for understanding your garden's microclimate. Record temperature fluctuations, rainfall, and any extreme weather events. This information helps you anticipate seasonal changes and adapt your gardening practices accordingly.

Garden layouts. Sketch or map out your garden space. Note the location of each plant, including its proximity to others. Over time, this visual representation becomes a valuable tool for planning future plantings, considering sunlight exposure, and addressing localgardener.net

Many gardeners keep journals, for a wide range of reasons.

potential issues like overcrowding.

Pest and disease records. Keep track of any pests or diseases that affect your garden. Note the date of discovery, the affected plants, and the measures taken to address the issue.

This section becomes a reference guide for identifying recurring problems and implementing preventative measures.

Blooming and harvesting times.

Celebrate the beauty of your garden by recording the dates when each plant blooms. Additionally, note the timing of harvests for fruits, vegetables, and herbs. You can also keep a record of the date each plant stops producing flowers or fruits. This information aids in planning for the next growing season and maximizing your garden's productivity. For ornamental gardens, it helps you decide where to move plants to make the most of their colour and bloom.

Notes on growth. Write down important details here that don’t fit anywhere else. You can put in notes about how tall plants got, how fast or slowly they grew and any perennials that need to be divided.

Plans for the future. Take the time to reflect at the end of the gardening season on what you’d like to do next year or further down the road.

Are there beds you hope to add or structures you want to put up? Then make sure you look at this section in the future to follow through on your dreams.

In the realm of gardening, a journal is more than just a record; it is a living testament to the ebb and flow of nature. Whether you're a novice or a seasoned gardener, the act of journaling transforms your garden from a mere collection of plants into localgardener.net

a dynamic, evolving masterpiece. So, grab a notebook, a pen, and let the pages of your garden journal blossom with the stories of growth, resilience, and the beauty of the natural world.

Purpose-made journals There are several gardening journals on the market, and they have some great features.

They tend to come with predefined sections, providing a structured format for essential information like plant profiles, weather observations and garden layouts. This can help you stay organized and ensure that you cover all the important aspects of your garden.

Some garden journals have questions to help guide you in writing about specific aspects of your garden.

This can be really helpful for new gardeners or those looking to deepen their understanding of their plants and gardening practices. It may hinder you, though, if you resent rules!

A purpose-made garden journal might include tips and advice on gardening techniques, plant care and

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seasonal considerations. You may have to adjust your activities for your local climate, though, so be mindful of that.

Some – but by no means all – garden journals have been designed to be taken outdoors and will withstand exposure to soil and water. Others were meant to be used after your gardening day is done, while you sit inside at your desk. There are good points to either, but you need to know yourself.

Whether you jot things down in a scribbler or plot things out with different coloured pens, a garden journal elevates your gardening experience from the mundane to the extraordinary. It is a living testament to the ebb and flow of nature, offering a space for introspection, growth, and the celebration of the beauty that unfolds within your cultivated sanctuary. So, with a notebook in hand, embark on this journey of documenting the stories of growth, resilience, and the captivating beauty of the natural world in your garden. h

2024 • 37

Plants to go with paint colours of the year for 2024 Story and images courtesy of Terra Nova Nurseries

‘Peach Pearls’ sedum is the perfect match for Glidden’s Limitless.

T

erra Nova Nurseries, a global leader in plant breeding, has announced a list of 25 companion plants corresponding with several popular colours of the year announced for 2024.

The company’s selection of best-ofbreeding varieties showcases a range of hues and tones that effortlessly complement the vibrancy and tranquility of the trending colours for the upcoming year.

Terra Nova’s breeding and marketing teams created their “Terra Nova Colours of the Year” plant list to correspond with five of the most popular colour predictors in North America, comprising top paint brands that conduct colour studies or focus groups each year. These included HGTV Home by Sherwin Williams’ Persimmon, C2’s Thermal, Behr’s Cracked Pepper, Glidden’s Limitless and Dutch Boy’s Ironside.

The plant varieties were selected for one or more of the following colour traits: flower colour, foliage colour, colours accented in leaf textures, and overall hues and tones.

“The colours announced for 2024 showcase the balance of moody and uplifting colour trends we’ve seen since the pandemic,” says Chuck 38 • 2024

‘Supreme Cantaloupe’ echinacea pairs well with Sherwin Williams’ Persimmon.

‘Hollywood’ heuchera pairs well with Dutch Boy’s Ironside.

Pavlich, director of new product development with Terra Nova Nurseries. “The colour-coordinated plant list embraces these corresponding and contrasting tones to provide further opportunities for applying and enjoying them in landscape, garden and patio settings.”

HGTV Home by Sherwin Williams’ Persimmon exudes energetic, lively and rejuvenating feelings with its red-orange colour and pastel-like undertones. Persimmon’s terracotta and peach hues Issue 1

'Nova Fuego' Aphelandra brings to mind Dutch Boy's Ironside colour of the year.

pair well with Terra Nova’s heuchera ‘Northern Exposure Amber’, which displays the same earthy, yet cheerful tones in the variety’s textural foliage.

Other companion plants for Persimmon include heucherella ‘Buttered Rum’, heuchera ‘Paprika’, echinacea ‘Supreme Canteloupe’, geum ‘Tempo Orange’, heuchera ‘Creme Brule’, begonia ‘Cocoa Enchanted Sunrise’ and heuchera ‘Changeling’. localgardener.net

‘Black Forest Cake’ goes with Cracked Pepper by Behr.

C2’s Thermal is a pale yet punchy baby blue, reminiscent of the vast sky. This water- and air-inspired shade evokes the same restoring and calming feelings as Lithodora ‘Crystal Blue’ and brunnera ‘Alexandria’, both boasting bright, baby blue flowers. Sedum ‘Marina’ and pulmonaria ‘Moonshine’ also serve as strong companion plants to C2 with their serene blue hues.

Cracked Pepper by Behr is best described as a moody, sophisticated soft black. Similar deep charcoal hues are showcased in actaea ‘Black Negligee’, heuchera ‘Little Cuties Coco’, heuchera ‘Black Forest Cake’, heuchera ‘Grande Black’ and heuchera ‘Black Beauty’. Each of these varieties delivers the same rich, relaxing and ebony tones as Cracked Pepper.

The fresh and warm hues of Glidden’s Limitless allow this honeybeige colour to be extremely versatile.

Echinacea ‘Cara Mia Sands’ by Terra Nova is a suitable companion plant with its cheery yet soothing neutral tones. Other colour-corresponding plants that made the Limitless list include echinacea ‘Aloha’, sedum ‘Peach Pearls’ and heuchera ‘Champagne’.

Dutch Boy’s Ironside is a lovely dark and ink-like shade of black with green, earthy undertones that deliver a one-of-a-kind tonal quality. The deep olive colour pairs well with begonia ‘Silver Lace’, evoking a mysterious, yet sophisticated aura.

The elegance and boldness of Ironside are also seen in the company’s heuchera ‘Little Cuties Shimmer’, aphelandra ‘Nova Fuego’ and heuchera ‘Hollywood’. h localgardener.net

‘Cocoa Enchanted Sunrise’ begonia pairs well with Sherwin Williams’ Persimmon.

‘Alexandria’ brunnera flowers are reminiscent of C2’s icy Thermal.

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2024 • 39

I

Beautiful Gardens Garden in Charlottetown Story by Dorothy Dobbie, photos by David Johnson

40 • 2024

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f you live in Charlottetown you may have noticed this house before. Flowers almost spill onto the sidewalk in front, elbowing for their inches of space. It’s the kind of spot that a gardening magazine cannot just pass by!

We knocked on the door. The gardener was away, but his very shy partner let us into the garden to take some pictures. The postage-stamp sized front yard is filled to the breaking point with a thriving golden chain tree, now past bloom; oh, to have seen it at its annual peak! Rose bushes bloom merrily in front of it and spent alliums poke their green-and-gold heads up here and there around it all.

There is a lamppost next to the front walk, all but swallowed by localgardener.net

Lilies, petunias, pansies and some tropicals kept in place by rabbit fences.

Plants grow gloriously thick in this garden. localgardener.net

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In the back yard, a greenhouse.

clematis and a climbing hydrangea, and down in front are containers full of petunias and pansies basking in the sun. To one side of the yard there are some pots of lilies, kept in the yard by a short rabbit fence. They are just about to bloom, a couple already out; in another week, they’ll put on a real show. Behind the lilies is another rabbit fence holding in potted sedums and cannas and more lilies. A fiery begonia punctuates, hanging from a post along with pots of petunias. Two tall yucca palms are spending the season outside here, towering over it all. The whole scene speaks of an abundance of bloom and life.

Picking our way around to the back, stepping over and around nursery pots with tags, we find the back yard shaded by trees, but no fewer plants because of it. There are pockets of sunlight around that some plants exploit. This shows the hand of a gardener who has lived here a long time and watched, knowing what works where and what needs more.

It’s not easy to find these places in a treed area and it takes time and patience.

Everything is pressed into acting as plant support.

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There are arbors and trellises covered in vines. A glossy green vine – flowering ivy or euonymus?

– in full bloom has taken over one arbor, others feature younger clematis climbing up. There are statues of goddesses and young girls holding water urns. Hanging planters are hooked onto anything that will take them: birdbaths, garden supports, tree branches. And over there in this green world, there is a greenhouse full of more plants. This gardener must never rest!

Heading back to the front, we pass an ancient wooden window box, once painted blue but now peeling. Moss is thick on the edges and plants are starting to grow out of the moss.

I’m not sure if there are seedlings or weedlings in it, but the sight, dappled in sunlight, is so rustic and beautiful that tears come to my eyes.

There are flashes of brilliance everywhere. Plants bought and not planted? They find a way to live in their nursery pots. Tendrils curl around the picks that hold ID signs. If I leave pots unplanted in my yard, they end up full of decomposition, but here, localgardener.net

Lilies trumpet out below clematis.

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Feverfew and an as-yet-unplanted fern.

Multiple kinds of allium scramble up arbors.

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A birdbath becomes support for a hanging plant.

the plants seem to know they are in the presence of kindness. They thrive.

I see countless gardens in my role, and I am awed by many. This one appealed to my sense of romance, but to more than that. The gardener has so many ideas and so many inspirations that he cannot finish them all, and the garden works itself out because… really, the garden doesn’t care what we think it should look like.

It will look how it wants to, taking in plants and making them grow the way it sees fit. And in doing so, the garden looks just how it should. Just as it does. h

This old planter painted beautifully with moss. localgardener.net

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Beautiful Gardens The Abkhazi Garden Victoria

Story and images by Dorothy Dobbie

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he Abkhazi Garden in Victoria has a romantic history. It was created by Georgian Prince Nicholas Abkhazi and his Shanghaiborn English bride, Marjorie (Peggy) Pemberton Carter, who became Princess Abkhazi upon her marriage to Nicholas in 1946.

They met in Paris in 1922, when Peggy was studying piano. They became friends and stayed in touch for years. Both had a miserable wartime experience. Nicholas, who had escaped the Russian revolution with his mother, joined the French Army only to be captured and put in a German prison.

Peggy was back in Shanghai and spent two years in a Japanese internment camp. In late 1945, right after her release, Peggy went to visit friends in Victoria. While there, she bought a one-acre, rocky bit of property for $1,850 and began to build a house on it. Earlier in the year, she had received a letter from Nicholas through the Red Cross, asking her to meet him in New York. She decided to take up the offer and in 1946, they were reunited and fell in love. She was 44. He was 47. They returned to Victoria and married. For the next 40 years, they “lived happily ever after – and built a garden,” said Peggy who passed away in 1994 at the age of 92. He passed in 1987.

The garden, often referred to as “the garden that love built”, was created in an unpretentious Victoria neighbourhood. A casual passerby would not know it was there but for a modest sign on the gate. Streetside, there is an unremarkable expanse of trees behind

A weeping form evergreen.

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Edging in on a tamer part of the garden.

From outside the fence, the garden looks like any old yard. localgardener.net

Lichens, moss and alpine plants.

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A Spanish fir rests on a rock in a lazy position.

Pathway through the garden.

At the edge of the pond near the tea room.

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a latticed fence. Inside the fence, a teahouse, the Abkhazi’s former home, sits high on the rocky rise, surrounded by a nice display of flowering shrubs.

Old-fashioned flowers, foxgloves, betony, snapdragons and bluebells – the kind of flowers you would find in an English country garden – grow along a fence on one side. A planting of evening scented stock occupies a shady spot as you go deeper into the property. None of this reveals the magic you are about to discover.

The house was built on top of a huge glacial rock and the garden flows around this.

The walk begins in deep shade. The upper story is created by mature Garry oaks. This wonderful species of white oak is native to the Pacific Coast growing 60 feet tall with a girth at can reach 40 inches. As the tree matures, branches become twisted bringing structural interest to the garden in winter. Garry oak groves were nurtured by the local Indigenous population who cleared the understory to grow camas bulbs in their shade. (Camas bulbs were an important food source for the Salish and other coastal native groups. When steamed or cooked in a pit for several days, one third of the weight of the bulb would be broken down into sugar fructose and used in all sorts of ways.)

But that was not on the minds of Peggy and Nicholas when they began to garden. What they did know was that these wonderful trees would provide the bones of the garden to build upon and they planted many.

The oaks shelter the large variety of the rhododendrons Peggy loved. They have grown very large over the years and put on a beautiful six-month display of colour. Under the rhodos they planted spring bulbs and flowers, among them canna, cyclamen, lilies, trillium, Jack in the pulpit, primula, camas and native bleeding hearts to mention just a few.

Just as beautiful and just as important are the non-flowering plants, the ferns, the hosta, the gunnera, the amazing umbrella leaf (Diphylleia cymosa) and hundreds of other shade-loving leafy plants. The rocks play host to a number of lichen and alpine flowers.

The woody collection is not all Japanese maples, rhododendrons and Garry oaks. There is an amazing collection of conifers, and shrubs planted for colour, texture and form so that the eye is never bored no matter what the season.

Gradually, gently, you leave the shade

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Impatiens omeiana.

Sea holly shining next to a slab of rock.

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A pond near the house (above) with waterlilies (below).

behind and come upon an intimate clearing set with benches so you can gaze in comfort at an exotic selection of plants on the margins. As the path leads further into the garden it passes the bottom edge of a rocky outcrop where a Spanish fir rests on the rock in a lazy position. The sun comes out on a long lawn that Peggy called the Yangtze River for the way it winds around the rock to the summerhouse at the end. Carefully pruned azaleas line the lawn. Several specially planted oaks provide dappled shade. Behind the teahouse near at the bottom of the rock are the are three ponds occupying natural indentations in the rock.

The effect of sun and shade playing on the lawn and pathway is beautiful.

Climbing up the rock reveals many wonderful views of the gardens and beyond. Abkhazi Garden is a favourite venue for weddings and garden parties or just an afternoon stroll with tea at the end.

Thanks to the Land Conservancy of British Columbia, the garden survived an attempt to bulldoze and develop the property. The garden is membership based and governed by a volunteer advisory board of directors who oversee the work in the garden and help raise funds. The entrance fee is only $10. h

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The trees create dappled light.

Rhododendron near the end of its blooming cycle.

Wildly curled tree forms. localgardener.net

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The front yard, with pockets of hostas and sedums.

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Beautiful Gardens Susan and Mark Featherstone Bradford, Ontario

Story by Shauna Dobbie, photos by David Johnson

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usan and Mark spent 18 years at their home in Bradford where they transformed a blank canvas into an inspiration for their neighbours; we visited them in Bradford at the height of the pandemic. Now settled in Strathroy, the couple talked about their experiences, challenges and plans for their new gardening adventure. localgardener.net

Mark and Susan Featherstone.

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The gazebo and the stone gully.

A tidy hosta bed.

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Weeping mulberry.

Birdhouse for our feathered friends of faith.

From transforming a grassy hill into a captivating landscape to combating wildlife intrusions, Susan and Mark revealed the secrets behind their remarkable garden.

The Bradford property measured 70 by 120 feet. At the back of the yard was a hill. “We redid the backyard. When we moved in, there was nothing back there but grass. We pulled the hill forward and planted it all into gardens. We put a Zen stream bed where the swale is. It really set it apart and our neighbours loved what we did so much,” said Susan. The neighbours were so enamored with their design that they replicated it in their own yards.

Surprisingly, neither Susan nor See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil. localgardener.net

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Every plant has its space, separated and set off by dark mulch.

Mark had much of a gardening background from childhood. While Mark admitted to being a "cutting grass kid," Susan had some experience helping her mom in vegetable gardens on the family farm. Over the years and 16 different residences before getting to the Bradford home, they honed their gardening skills, making mistakes and learning valuable lessons.

One challenge they faced in Bradford was dealing with wildlife, including rabbits that were fond of feasting on their flowers. Susan and Mark shared their creative solution of using raised beds with galvanized metal plates, keeping both rabbits and mice at bay. They emphasized the initial investment's long-term payoff, providing an abundant and pest-free harvest.

Hens and chicks becoming roosters.

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Spirea.

Yellow-flowering sedum and bladder campion. localgardener.net

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No more music from this instrument!

Pink and orange together create surprise.

The Featherstones spent most of their summers in the gazebo, and a good deal of spring and fall.

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The couple reminisced about their three-season gazebo, a haven that allowed them to escape mosquitoes and enjoy the outdoors from early spring to late fall. Despite missing the Bradford setup, they acknowledged that their current yard might not accommodate a similar structure. However, they remain open to ideas for creating a cozy outdoor space.

Now in Strathroy, the couple plan to embrace a more manageable gardening approach. With retirement on the horizon, they aim to create raised beds for vegetables and focus on a variety of hostas and shrubs. Their goal is not only to enjoy the beauty of their garden but also to grow their own vegetables, given the rising costs of produce post-pandemic. localgardener.net

A big purple clematis looks stately behind the black fence.

Looking into the soul of this hosta.

Having retired in 2020, they shared their current dilemma of finding purpose in retirement.

With resumes being dusted off, they contemplate part-time opportunities that align with their interests, such as working at a golf course or a flower shop. Their transition from full-time jobs to retirement reflects a desire for balance and fulfillment.

Susan and Mark's gardening journey is a testament to the transformative power of passion and dedication. From creating a stunning landscape in Bradford to adapting their gardening style in Strathroy, the couple continues to evolve.

As they navigate retirement, their commitment to a manageable yet thriving garden stands as an inspiration for fellow gardening enthusiasts. h localgardener.net

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Shauna’s garden Story and photos by Shauna Dobbie

The eastern front yard.

W

ith snow on the ground now it is time to reflect on what to do next year. The back yard has the vegetable garden put in with a few permanent fixtures, including rhubarb, two haskaps, asparagus and many strawberries. Adding a couple of tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, carrots and squash doesn’t feel as daunting as it did at this time last year.

This spring I need to concern myself with the front yard, which has barely been touched by me.

The house faces north on a double lot. This means that I have different kinds of light to concern myself with. There is not much light at the eastern side, where the house is, while on the western side it is quite sunny.

There was a big old oak in the eastern neighbours’ yard that they cut down just before the snow flew (the dear old thing was hollow inside); that shouldn’t affect the light level much, but it will have a big effect on moisture available for plants at ground level.

Along the very front of the east side are a few scrag-

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gly shrubs. I think they are aronia, though they did not produce very many berries owing to their lack of light.

These poor guys have met with every danger that has walked down our street in the last few years, making it even harder for them to thrive in their dark, dry corner.

I think they should be replaced by something, maybe some kind of currant native to Canada. I don’t know how many berries they would get or if they would be bushy and healthy looking here any more than the aronias, though; maybe if I provide more water.

The lawn on the shady side struggles too. I’m thinking of removing it and putting in a beautiful shade garden.

Centering on a giant ‘Blue Angel’ hosta, surrounded by sedges. A pathway through it – maybe a spiral? The area is about 20 by 20 feet, is it big enough for a spiral?

Bleeding hearts, astilbes and heucheras. Some ligularia in the centre. I can steal some ferns from next to the house, where they grow quite thickly.

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Western front yard.

garden in it. It would have been lovely in its heyday and isn’t too shabby now, provided it’s weeded. There are some red-twig dogwoods next to the street. They’re quite healthy; the only problem with them is… I’m not crazy about them. I think I should leave them and learn to like them. I’d really like to put in some pink snowberry (Symphorocarpos) here, though. Maybe I can do both.

Behind the dogwoods (looking at the house from the street) is a thickly mulched garden with small spireas

A row of lilacs that don’t bloom. localgardener.net

The sunny side of the garden, not so sunny in the late afternoon in the winter.

and ninebarks on one side and a bed filled with one kind of bearded iris that is absolutely overgrown. I’ll probably keep about a quarter of them.

This gardened area was maintained for some time through the addition of an almost impermeable weed barrier covered by a couple of inches of mulch. I discovered it when planting bulbs in the fall. If you are unaware, let me tell you about the problem with weed barrier.

My poor old cherry tree.

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Two composters are too evident.

An old stump of a tree that was much too close to the house.

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The broken aronia shrubs near the front of the property.

It’s great under paving or decks. In a garden, though, leaves and dead plant material that naturally fall to the ground compost over the weed barrier, creating soil.

That soil grows weeds. The weeds may never get their roots through the barrier, but they die and, if left in place, create more soil. Weeds also poke up around the holes that were cut for plants to go in. You can pull the weeds, of course, but there are other problems. The barriers are supposed to let water in, but they inhibit it. And they prevent the exchange of gases between the soil and the air, which is necessary for healthy soil.

They can also make the area too warm for the myriad creatures that live underground and keep your soil healthy.

The weed barrier must come out.

Next to the fence, behind this sunny garden, there are two composters, which are great if not too attractive. Quite a few weeds have grown around them, particularly cleavers. Cleavers are dastardly buggers; they seem tame enough when in bloom with little white flowers, but when they go to seed watch out.

Every tiny flower becomes a tiny Velcro fruit that will stick to your pants, your shirt, your gloves, and sometimes even your skin. Getting them off is very difficult. I’ve thrown away gardening gloves that have come into contact with these burs.

Putting a perennial garden into a sunny area is something I’ve done before and there is space to grow anything I want. The problem here? Too much choice!

My current dream is to put in huge swaths of plants – Russian sage, coneflowers, grasses, milkweed – in the style of Piet Oudolf and the Lurie Garden in Chicago’s Millenium Park.

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Photo by Senor Codo.

Lurie Garden in Millenium Park.

There are also a few trees in the front yard. On the eastern side, there is a hedge of lilacs between the neighbours and us. They didn’t bloom last year and I should have cut them back to encourage it. This year I will.

There is a linden of some height that has been the victim of a sapsucker, according to the pockmarked bark. The sapsucker damage is all healed over and the tree shows no other signs of damage; my husband likes it, so I guess it can stay. And there are two buckeyes.

One of them, you can see in the pictures, has a bunch of white lights and decorations on it right now. I’d like

to have one or both of them removed.

I want to put in a new cherry tree further from the house. (I suspect this one grew from a seed left behind, given its position and the many, many little cherry trees that grew in my yard this spring.) I’d also like to get two apples, though maybe those should be espaliered on the other side of the fence, in the vegetable garden.

I have so many ideas for the front yard and I’m not sure how to get any of them done, balancing it with publishing this magazine and another. Nonetheless, it’s good to be busy! h

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