Canada's Local Gardener Volume 2 Issue 2

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2021 • 1

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Contents volume 2

Canada’s local Gardener

24

36

ISSUE 2, 2020

74

Dear Gardeners...........................................................4

Beautiful Gardens of Canada..................................36

Letters to the editor.....................................................5

Light in the night garden.........................................54

Benches, chairs and eating spots in the garden......6

Fences........................................................................57

Straw bale gardening................................................9

Raised bed possibilities............................................60

Designing a bare lot.................................................12

Companion planting guide.....................................62

Can you have chickens?...........................................16

Gardening beside the sea.........................................66

Pathways in the garden...........................................20

Close to the kitchen...................................................70

Reliable, must-have perennial plants every

Landscaping 2020 with Covid-19.........................72

gardener should try ..............................................24

Seed catalogues—ready, set, dream!....................74

Hosta and other shade plants.................................34

How to get started...................................................78

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2021 • 3

Dear gardeners I

promise, the uplifting part of this message comes after the next paragraph.

This year of 2021 so far has not shown itself to be as much of a relief as everyone had been expecting. Ignoring events to the south, we’re coming to terms with how much longer we’ll be wearing masks and avoiding people we don’t live with. The good news of vaccines has been supplanted with the realization of just how long it will take the blessed stuff to get to everyone who wants to be immunized. Politicians and civil servants who opted to sneak away to foreign destinations over Christmas have been demoted and friends and family have come nearly to blows (no actual blows, though; social distancing) over the morality of visiting a dying loved one in a foreign country. Half of my Facebook feed is filled with vitriol.

But only half. Here is the uplifting part.

The other half of my newsfeed is filled with gardeners.

Gardeners wanting to know what the best cucumber to order is and sharing pictures of fresh snowfalls on seed heads. Maybe they participate in the arguments and ugliness—it doesn’t really matter. Because through it all, they see that someone new to houseplants has fine webs on his parlour palm and needs to know what to do about spider mites.

There have always been things that divide us. Right now, they are pretty harsh; as a society, we’ve fallen into factions that each of us believes to be crazy or sane. I don’t care which faction you are in; you think the other side is certifiably nuts.

But folks on either side can plant a seed. The lady so wrapped up in her political stance that you wonder if she sleeps at night can dream about a freshly unfurled rose that is still perfect, without bug bites. She can plan for cut and come again salads. She can be every bit as excited as you are to see a seed catalogue in the mail.

The good news is that people are gardening again. The rain and the sun and the insects don’t give a hoot how you voted, they’ll come to your yard just the same.

••••• This is the annual edition we traditionally call Beautiful Gardens, and usually it is all garden profiles. Owing to COVID-19, we couldn’t go out and photograph gardens this year, so we decided to make this special edition all about different ways to build the garden of your dreams.

From seating to paths and raised beds to chickens, there is plenty here to get your creative juices flowing.

Please write and tell me what you think. I will read all your messages and I’ll print my favourites in a future issue of Canada’s Local Gardener.

Happy reading!

Shauna Dobbie Editor shauna@pegasuspublications.net 4 • 2021

Canada’s

Local Gardener Follow us online at: localgardener.net Instagram:@local_gardener Published by Pegasus Publications Inc. President/Publisher Dorothy Dobbie dorothy@pegasuspublications.net Design Cottonwood Publishing Services Editor Shauna Dobbie shauna@pegasuspublications.net Art Direction & Layout Karl Thomsen karl@pegasuspublications.net General Manager Ian Leatt ian.leatt@pegasuspublications.net Contributors Dorothy Dobbie, Shauna Dobbie, Keith Lemkey, Dan Rubin.

Editorial Advisory Board Greg Auton, John Barrett, Todd Boland, Darryl Cheng, Ben Cullen, Mario Doiron, Michel Gauthier, Larry Hodgson, Jan Pedersen, Stephanie Rose, Michael Rosen and Aldona Satterthwaite.

Advertising Sales 1.888.680.2008 Subscriptions Write, email or call Canada’s Local Gardener, 138 Swan Lake Bay, Winnipeg, MB R3T 4T8 Phone (204) 940-2700 Fax (204) 940-2727 Toll Free 1 (888) 680-2008 subscribe@localgardener.net One year (four issues): $35.85 Two years (eight issues): $71.70 Three years (twelve issues): $107.55 Single copy: $10.95; Beautiful Gardens: $14.95 150 years of Gardening in Canada copy: $12.95 Plus applicable taxes.

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Canada’s Local Gardener is published four times annually by Pegasus Publications Inc. It is regularly available to purchase at newsstands and retail locations throughout Canada or by subscription. Visa, MasterCard and American Express accepted. Publisher buys all editorial rights and reserves the right to republish any material purchased. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited without permission in writing from the publisher.

Copyright Pegasus Publications Inc.

Issue 2

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Letters to the editor I picked up a copy of the magazine, Ontario Gardener Volume 20, Issue 2 2019 last week and was somewhat astonished at the article I read on page 15, in regard to “What’s eating my roses”.

Japanese beetles: “Milky spore is not harmful to humans, animals, birds or other insects or plants. It is not approved for sale in Canada so you may have to order it from Amazon where it will be shipped to Canada”.

Maybe there is a reason why it is not approved for sale?

Basically, the author is advocating breaking the law. Pesticides are no longer allowed to be used on lawns in Ontario, but if I wrote an article advocating crossing into the USA to purchase these chemicals it would be an irresponsible act on my part. I know people do this, but they are not approved for sale in Ontario.

I’ve been gardening for over 40 years and have a Diploma in Horticulture and would never tell anyone to just ignore our Canadian laws and smuggle in bulbs or garden chemicals or anything else for that matter. For a magazine to suggest this is quite surprising.

There are many ways to deal with Japanese beetles, one very simple method is to just knock them into a bucket of soapy water, or grow plants they don’t like, eliminate the monoculture of a lawn etc.

Judith Renaud Thank you, Judith, for your comments. We are not suggesting anyone break the law. Indeed, neem oil is in the same classification, but while the raw product is not available to sell in Canada without a license, it is not illegal to purchase it. The issue is that this bacterium is not necessarily effective for use in our soil temperatures, something I should have researched more carefully, and it ONLY works against the Japanese beetle larvae.

Thank you for bringing this to my attention.

Dorothy

F

•••

irst, may I say how much I enjoy your magazine. It’s one of the few I go through from front to back as soon as I get it. Thank you

localgardener.net

Crab Tree artwork by Linda Crabtree (above and right).

very much for the effort that goes into it. I put together a 32-page newsletter 6 times a year for 18 years, so I have some inkling of what it’s like to get a newsletter or magazine out to the public on a regular basis.

I wanted to ask if you would be interested in a story about my garden and how I manage, not being able to walk and losing the use of my hands.

It’s tricky. I have to rely on other people, but I do have a vision for it and it is coming along quite well.

Seven nicely weathered half wine barrels are my places to putter because they are at the height of my electric scooter. My husband, Ron, set them all up for me about six years ago and I have enjoyed gardening in them ever since. However, we live on a fairly large corner lot and since having five very tall Scotch pines cut down, I have been in-filling the space that they took up. I’ve also taken a junky corner of the lot to a very pleasant looking scooter-accessible space. And, we also have a very private fence-in backyard area that features a bubbling rock and adjustable slip-covered bed. It’s a wonderful place to read and nap during the summer.

I also paint the flowers and blossoms from my dogwoods and other shrubs along with the flowers of my generous neighbours. I turn my paintings into cards and send them out to my friends on their birthdays. At 78, the paintings give me something to take my mind off my pain and the garden is a pleasant recreational distraction as well. I am also a writer and photographer so I could probably come up with something next year or 2022 that you could use but I don’t know if you’re interested at all. I imagine a lot of your readers are older and some of them might have physical disabilities that they must consider while still gardening. My story might prompt a Issue 2

few more of them to come forward.

If I know there’s some interest, I can take photos that might work.

Linda D. Crabtree, St. Catharines, Ontario Watch for this story in a future issue of Canada’s Local Gardener! Two of the paintings Linda sent to us are shown above.

••• I am really loving the new issue! It's big and chock-full of information! I live in Alberta and my son and his family live in Nova Scotia and I have already shared some of the info on growing peppers because they are always trying to improve their crop there.

The only thing I feel bad about is that because of COVID-19 you don't get to travel to do your stories and all those amazing gardeners out there don't have the pleasure of meeting you.

I always look forward to the magazine every month but I will even more so now!

By the way, I did a double take when I saw the photo of my fairy garden.

Wendy Mallard, Stony Plain, Alberta It’s been a hard year, not meeting gardeners, for sure. Hope you like the picture of your shed on the cover of this issue! Y 2021 • 5

Imagine lunch in a forest clearing...

Benches, chairs and eating spots in the garden A

Relax and recline.

6 • 2021

fter all the work is done, the weeds are pulled, the mulch is down and the plants are growing without your help, it is time to relax in your favourite chair or bench or lounge. Garden seating is one of the special joys in the life: a place to sit and dream, and to contemplate the wonders you have wrought. Or to have a meal with family and friends.

Benches and chairs don’t have to be rigid and formal. They can be fun, comfy, or purely ornamental.

Gardeners are highly creative and use all sorts of found materials to fashion unique seating opportunities.

In locating seating, remember to: Issue 2

1. Think about the sun and when it reaches your seating area. You don’t want to be sitting down to dinner beneath the blazing afternoon sun, but you may want its warmth in the morning with your coffee.

2. Place your seating oriented to the view. After all, that is what it is all about.

3. Make some of your seating social in groupings for more than one.

4. Add a small table or stand to place a drink or set down a book.

5. Amuse yourself. Place your seating for one where you can watch the birds at your feeder or at a birdhouse. Y localgardener.net

An outdoor living room.

The glowing hakonechloa grass adds light to the seating area.

A lovely place for dinner, complete with an umbrella for shade, if needed.

A floriferous spot in a field of green. localgardener.net

A great spot to hang a birdhouse.

A cool, shady spot for the end of a busy day.

Issue 2

2021 • 7

A metal bench that is surprisingly comfortable.

A bench made of polished wood from a tree root.

The chairs don’t have to be fancy when the view is lovely.

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8 • 2021

Issue 2

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Straw bale gardening Story by Shauna Dobbie, photos by Joel Karsten

I

Kale and lettuce growing in straw. The marigolds are for companion planting. localgardener.net

Issue 2

f you have difficult to work soil and you want to start a vegetable garden in the spring, this is one solution. You line up bales of straw on any kind of ground, including concrete. You “condition” the straw, to get it to break down a bit. Then you plant your vegetables into the straw.

Take note that straw is not hay. Hay is made of grass and contains seeds.

Straw is the stalk of grass after the grain has been harvested; it doesn’t (generally) contain seeds. You need straw and not hay for this kind of gardening.

The process takes quite a bit more water and added nutrients than gardening in soil, but you can get started on it without much backbreaking labour. On the other end of the growing season, you have a lot of spent straw, which is good for mulching your in-ground gardens or composting, but probably not for another year of straw bale gardening.

You need to start with fresh straw every year, though you might be able to get two years out of your bales.

Conditioning the straw In the spring, place your bales where they will get plenty of sun.

Don’t assume that since you can move them when they are dry that you’ll be able to move them again; a typical straw bale is about 40 gallons, or 45 pounds dry. Once it’s saturated with water, it’ll weigh up to 300 pounds.

If the bales will be on soil or grass, you may want to put plastic or something beneath them. It’s hard to imagine weeds growing through 18 inches of packed straw, but a plastic barrier will prevent water from being sucked up by the ground below. Position the bales with the cut sides up.

Week 1: Soak the bales every day with water. On days 2, 4 and 6, sprinkle 3 cups of blood meal on each bale.

Week 2: On days 1, 2 and 3, sprinkle 1 ½ cups of blood meal per bale and water deeply. Water deeply for the next 3 days.

You can use any high-nitrogen fertilizer for this purpose but avoid any with pre-emergent herbicides and any that are slow-release.

2021 • 9

Cabbages and carrots.

Planting the bales You’ll know the bales are conditioned if you put your hand on one and it feels about body temperature.

If the bales are hot, they on their way; wait until they cool down to body temperature. If they’re cold, they haven’t started to condition yet. It could be that the surrounding temperatures haven’t been high enough and you’ll need to wait until it gets a little warmer.

Many people find it easier to put in bedding plants than to direct-seed. To plant bedding plants, put a divot into the soil about the size of the seedling pot. Place the seedling and tamp it in with more potting or garden soil. If you want to direct-seed, put a couple of inches of soil on top of the bales to plant the seeds into.

Growing the garden Continue to fertilize at a heavy rate; liquid fertilizer, like liquid kelp, every couple of weeks should do it. And continue to keep the water flowing.

This is like a hybrid between hydroponic and regular gardening. Many gardeners use drip irrigation for their straw bales. Y

Planting a starter plant.

Good for: • Growing vegetables on a paved area • Renters • Gardening on sand or heavy clay • Gardening on contaminated soil • Avoiding soil-borne diseases

You can’t see the straw by midsummer! The structures are for beans and other vining vegetables.

10 • 2021

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Not good for: • Rooftops; the wet bales may be too heavy • Perennials • Corn, which is too tall localgardener.net

Where it all started and where it’s going

A

pparently, straw-bale gardening goes back to ancient times; more recently, it has been discovered, used and codified by Joel Karsten, who started about 30 years ago. Karsten has a Bachelor of Science in Horticulture from the University of Minnesota.

Although he lives on a small lot now, he grew up on a farm, and he noticed how weeds love to grow around straw, and how straw broke down.

When he bought his first house, he didn’t have enough money to build raised beds out of wood, so he decided to experiment with straw bales. Lo and behold, it worked. Then he wrote the book on it.

By now, he’s written a few books on straw bale gardening. He also speaks on the topic, not only to garden groups around Minnesota and surrounding states, he’s taken his ideas to Cambodia.

Cambodia has particular problems with growing food because every year it has a flood season followed by a drought season. The flood season is not just wet, it’s drenched. And the drought season has extended periods of 38-degree plus weather.

Working with the Korean Trade Partners and other non-government organizations, Karsten is part of a team that has figured out a solution. A typical farmer has 2.5 acres of land. On that land, they use a backhoe to dig an enormous hole, 20 feet deep and 40 by 40 feet in area. The heavy clay that is excavated gets piled to one side and packed down.

Bales made of rice straw go on top of the berm and are planted there. They are not flooded out because the water drains down into the hole. The water that collects in the hole, too, stays around for use during the drought that follows the flood.

Alternatively, rafts can be constructed from bamboo, sturdy enough to hold bales for planting. The rafts float above the water in the rainy season. localgardener.net

Preparing the rafts for floating gardens in Cambodia.

Floating gardens in Cambodia.

Straw bale hydroponics.

Issue 2

2021 • 11

Designing a bare lot

By Dorothy Dobbie

New homes are usually sold with a bare minimum of landscaping, but this give you the chance to start from scratch. Imagine the possibilities!

What to consider So, you have just purchased that brand-new forever home in a new neighbourhood where your kids can grow up and you can grow old with your mate. But the yard is a barren wasteland! Where do you start? What do you do? Here’s a bit of a map to help you avoid mistakes you will regret a few years down the road.

Environment Start by assessing the space and its exposure to the elements, traffic and neighbours.

What direction is the sun going to shine from in the morning and afternoon? This will help decide where to locate a patio or a deck, preferably where it will receive morning sunshine and evening shade, sheltered from the heat of the blazing sun at the end of the day. Patios and decks do not have to be built against the foundation in the back yard. A floating deck or a patio can be located anywhere.

Consideration of the sun’s movements will dictate what to plant and where. Wind exposure will also impact what is planted. Some evergreens such as cedars are sensitive to winter drying and may not do well in a space where there is a lot of sun and wind. North facing areas near house foundations may receive very little light.

This could be the place for a Zen-inspired garden with a gravel base and some ornaments.

What about the neighbourhood? Are the lots well12 • 2021

treed or are immaculate lawns the choice of the majority?

Neighbours might not appreciate a large maple shedding its leaves in fall. Large deciduous or fruit-dropping trees planted against a fence will affect the family next door. If they have many trees, they probably won’t care, but take this into consideration when choosing.

Traffic will also dictate some decisions. In the coldest parts of Canada where salt and sand are deployed to keep the streets snow or ice free, plant salt-tolerant woody plants near the street. Spreaders put down extra product on curves. Corner lots will doubtless attract kids who cut across corners, too. A flower bed or some shrubs in that space can obstruct that traffic.

Lawns and gardens Is the lot sodded? If not, spend a little extra to lay down a good foot of topsoil before adding the grass.

Generally, the trucking fee makes up most of the cost so buying 10 yards at one time instead of five will not add significantly to the price.

Soil will contain some unwanted weeds. Most provinces have banned the chemical bombing that used to sterilize the soil, which wasn’t good for growth anyway because it killed all the microscopic partners plants need to access minerals. Dead soil will not have weeds. Weedy soil will be healthy soil. Be patient and pull weeds that emerge.

If you live in an area with a clay mix or if the land you Issue 2

localgardener.net

Cedars provide privacy, act as a wind block and are a haven for birds.

A smaller tree such as this Amur maple can still provide plenty of shade under its spreading branches.

Evergreens provide shelter and protect at the sides of the house.

An opposing view on tree size

By Shauna Dobbie

localgardener.net

Y

ou hear all the time that you shouldn’t put a big tree on a small lot.

I’ve lived in Downtown(ish) Toronto for over 20 years and I have this to say: pfft. If it weren’t for big trees on small lots this city would have even less than its current 31-percent tree canopy coverage.

There are certainly times when I see some pretty big trees squished up against

a house, or a monstrosity blocking sight of the door from 15 feet away at the street. I would recommend against some tree placement on small city lots, and against certain tree varieties; I have yet to see a weeping willow happily thriving on a 14-foot wide property.

But the magnificent chestnuts and maples that were saplings when houses were Issue 2

first built in the early 1900s?

Bring ‘em on. They are what make a residential street a neighbourhood. They offer relief from the searing sun and provide the perfect dark foil for frosty snowfalls.

So, if you’re moving into a home on a small lot of 20 feet or less frontage, I say go ahead with a tree that will grow big.

It may convince your neighbours to do the same.

2021 • 13

A small floating patio at the front of the house.

Dealing with an old, weedy lawn. The homeowner added more topsoil, aided by a commercial seeding system such as Grotrax, a blanket embedded with seed.

C

What to look for in good soil

heck the soil before buying. It doesn’t have to be black to be good, but it should have the following qualities.

1. Check the reputation of the purveyor and don’t go for the cheapest soil you can buy.

2. A squeezed handful and should hold its shape for a bit before crumbling. This will general indicate that the soil contains enough organics to retain moisture and provide food for microscopic entities that help break down minerals for plant use.

3. Good soil will also have a gritty feel between your thumb and forefinger. The sandy grit contains the minerals plants need. It will also allow water to percolate through the soil.

14 • 2021

Don't forget circles when planning your design.

are adding the topsoil to is compacted, but sure to dig some of the new soil into the base to make it easier for plant roots to penetrate and get at underlying minerals.

If it’s sandy, order a coarser soil with plenty of compost.

Be aware that new home builders are not generous with topsoil, often laying down a scant four to six inches. Lawns will be lusher and easier to care for if there is a good foundation of soil well-furnished with organic matter. Flower beds should be topped up with additional topsoil.

Be aware, also, that soil will settle as much as 30 percent over a few months. Take this into account when deciding to build that raised vegetable bed. Best to put the soil down in fall and let it rest over winter.

Consider slope and drainage of the yard. Where are the high spots? Where are the low ones? High areas will be dry areas. Low areas may be soggy. Both will affect planting plans.

Some small city lots have done away with grass all together in front yards, opting for gravel, hoping for low maintenance. Disappointment can follow when the yard fills up with fallen leaves and other detritus so that over the years, the once pristine stone or gravel becomes a garden for weeds. Consider also that stone heats up and reflects sunlight back into the air around the home.

Grass and other groundcovers, on the other hand, require watering in dry years, but expire the moisture, cooling their surroundings. The good news is that raking leaves is no longer the trend. Instead, run the mower over the leaves to break them up. The tiny animals under the surface will gobble the remains in no time and nourish the garden while doing it.

Trees and shrubs Woody plants, trees and shrubs, are the bones of the garden or yard. They impact sun and wind exposure, and well-placed trees can save the homeowner as much as 20 percent in heating and cooling costs. Think again about the sun and wind direction when considering where to plant trees and what trees to plant.

Size, shape, density are all considerations. Choosing a tree too big for a lot is a common mistake. While height can be an issue, conflicting with overhead wires or streetlights, shape and spread is often overlooked.

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localgardener.net

Establish spaces in the yard.

Barberry.

A small floating deck to provide a garden view.

Trees can be columnar, pyramidal, global and compact, or they can be open and spreading. A spreading shape on a small city lot may be a bad idea, even if the mature tree height is limited. On the other hand, a columnar cedar or apple will look inappropriate if planted singly on a big lot. Columnar trees need a backdrop or to be planted in threes or fives, perhaps to mark a boundary.

Foliage density, such as that provided by evergreens, will block wind. Spreading trees provide dappled shade, even if the tree is not large.

Shrubs should be carefully chosen with the same thoughts in mind. While many shrubs have dwarf varieties, the word “dwarf” can be misleading. Ask for exact mature dimensions. If planning a hedge, be sure the shrubs chosen can be cut back severely when they become overgrown. Some varieties may not survive this kind of pruning.

How is the view?

Think about viewing points when laying out the garden plan. What can be seen from the kitchen window? localgardener.net

No grass in this front yard; these gardeners put down bark mulch instead.

How accessible is the vegetable and herb garden to the kitchen? Do you want bird song and dappled shade to cut the sun’s glare on your bedroom window? Once again, what is the sun access like?

Most vegetables like to be in the sun, so don’t plan to put a big shade tree near this plot. How much shadow will a detached garage or a high fence cast on the vegetable garden and for how long? Sun loving plants need six to eight hours of sunlight a day. While there are some root vegetables that can do with a bit less, the best vegetable gardens will take full advantage of a sunny spot.

Shady areas are important too, places to escape from the heat of the day, where muted greens and blues ease the eyes and big-leafed hosta can thrive. Plan these spaces. Perhaps a small patio with a side table and a couple of arm chairs. Make this a deliberate part of the garden scheme and place it where it can be seen from an activity-intensive part of the home.

The view is the part of the garden you can enjoy all year long. Y Issue 2

2021 • 15

Can you have chickens?

Story by Shauna Dobbie

Most hens will lay eggs in nesting boxes.

L

ast year, thousands of Canadians turned their attention inward, considering their own ability to sustain themselves through gardening. Keeping chickens cannot be far behind.

There was a bit of a movement to get cities across Canada to allow chickens in back yards about 10 years ago. A couple ended up doing so. Today you can keep chickens (with various rules) in Vancouver, Victoria, Edmonton, and parts of Montreal and Toronto.

You can have them in Kingston and Kitchener, Ontario; Cornerbrook, Newfoundland; Whitehorse, Yukon; and Wolfville, Nova Scotia.

Arguments against backyard chickens are many. One is noise, though that is easily dispatched by allowing only hens and not roosters. Hens are, simply put, not noisy. I’m not aware of an urban municipality that allows roosters.

Another argument is the smell of chickens and the vermin that are 16 • 2021

attracted to it. The smell, it is true, can only be dealt with by keeping a chicken coop clean. The critters are attracted to chicken feed, so it can’t be left out overnight; you can either feed them only as much as they want or need, or you can use a metal feeder designed for chickens. (The hopper opens when a chicken stands next to it and closes when the chicken leaves.

Apparently, rats can’t get into it.)

An additional apprehension comes from folks concerned about animal welfare. There are worries that city slickers will get a few hens then tire of looking after them. And it will happen; just as there are lousy dog and cat owners, there will be lousy chicken owners. There are lousy parents, for goodness sake! You can’t punish everybody for the mistakes of a few scofflaws.

If you’re in a place—urban, suburban or rural—that allows keeping chickens, here’s a few things to inspire you to take the plunge.

Issue 2

Get the girls Do you need a rooster? Probably not. Hens will lay eggs whether there’s a rooster involved or not.

If you’d like to increase your flock without buying them, you’ll need a rooster, but be forewarned: they are aggressive. It’s that aggressive tendency that makes them of some value, though. They do protect the henhouse from invaders.

If you are in a city, you won’t be able to keep any roosters because they crow. If you’re in the country, prepare for some cock-a-doodling early in the morning.

These are social animals, so get at least three hens.

Get a hen house You’ll need a house for your chickens. The coop needs a few things: ventilation, areas for nesting and areas for perching, and access to the outdoors.

Ventilation is very important and you may need more than you think. localgardener.net

Chickens roosting on a fence.

Chickens produce a lot of ammonia and moisture. Factor in more ventilation than you think you’ll need, and keep the draft off your chickens. Heat is less of a problem. Cold-hardy chickens can survive down to -40 Celsius.

Nesting boxes aren’t strictly necessary; in fact, you’ll have to train your chickens to use them. But you can give shy chickens a private place to lay eggs and give yourself a place to collect the eggs. Be warned, though, that even well-trained chickens will lay in odd places from time to time.

Perching areas are necessary because chickens don’t like to sleep on the ground in their own poop and where mice can nibble their toes. The ideal perch is a two-by-four piece of untreated wood, placed with the wider side up. Chickens sleep with their feet flat, not gripping something.

Rhode Island reds are fairly cold hardy. localgardener.net

Food Chicken food is a matter selecting a feed from the farm store according to the age of the chickens, your sensibilities and your pocketbook. Add in some chicken scratch and table scraps for variety. Don’t worry; your chickens won’t overeat.

Make sure one of the table scraps you give them is crushed eggshells.

They need the calcium. Alternatively, you can buy crushed oyster shell. But if you try to imagine chickens in the wild, there would be a lot of empty eggshells just sitting around after chicks hatch; the adults may as well eat them.

You should also provide grit to have the healthiest chickens. This is something you can either buy or you can just provide it; a bag of builder’s sand does the trick.

Provide grit and shells in separate bowls, apart from the feed, so your chickens can sample as they need.

Water Water is easy in the summertime, but quite a matter for worry in the winter. Your hens can’t make use of snow or frozen water. The easiest thing to do is get an electric chicken waterer, which will keep the stuff liquid.

Chickens outside Chickens are happiest when they can explore. Left to scratch in your yard through the non-freezing parts of the year, they will eat bugs and slugs and grit. In the winter, if you can provide some snow-free areas outside, some chickens will go for it and others will stay inside the coop. Some chickens will even venture into the snow.

As for having chickens in your

The Australorp chicken does well in Canada.

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Photo by Putneypics.

Photo by Jessica Reeder.

Chicken coops don’t need to be large.

This moveable chicken tractor keeps the birds safe while giving them a new space day to day.

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garden, their time will probably need to be limited. They will eat any seeds you put in and will gobble up the leaves of some plants.

Chickens need change to keep their minds occupied, as well. You can’t just have a 4-by-10 fenced area and expect your hens to behave. Some people have “chicken tractors”, which are moveable enclosures.

Eggs At their prime, hens will lay about two eggs every three days. But their prime doesn’t last for more than a year or two, they don’t start laying until they’re about six months old, and production can slow down or stop in the winter. It is possible to trick hens into laying in the winter with artificial light, but those tricks are better left to the battery hens.

In a hen’s third year, she will lay around 80 percent of the eggs she laid in her second year, and production will fall off by about 10 percent per year after that. Some hens will lay more eggs, some fewer.

They usually live around five to seven years, but some will live longer.

If she continues to live, a hen will pretty much stop laying eggs. (The oldest hen on record was Muffy, who lived to 22, by the way.) Y localgardener.net

Photo by Tim Evanson.

This coop has a chicken run attached.

T

Chickens eat rocks?

hat’s right. Chickens don’t chew their food, they swallow it whole.

It gets ground up in the gizzard. The gizzard needs bits of rock to do it.

Some free-range chickens will find plenty of these little stones, or grit, while scratching about in the dirt. If that’s the case, you don’t need to give them any more. If your chickens can’t find enough, though, they can end up with a blockage somewhere in the alimentary track. It’s best to give them some sand or crushed oyster shells to sample from when they need it.

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2021 • 19

Pathways in the garden

By Dorothy Dobbie

Crushed stone leads you through and around these gardens.

A

These decorative pavers get you to the hammock with clean feet.

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garden without a pathway is like a boy without a spine.

Pathways help define the garden, creating drama and structure. They lead the viewer from one focal point to another. Pathways allow the gardener to help focus attention on highlights in the garden or to lead to a quiet seating place or other special feature.

From a practical standpoint, garden pathways can allow access to plants for the purposes of pruning or watering or weeding, particularly important in the large vegetable garden.

Pathways can be made from all sort of materials, from expensive and beautifully wrought decorative hard features such as brick or carefully laid mosaic stone, to something as simple as grass, gravel or mulch. A pathway planted with creeping thyme makes a fragrant walk.

When designing a pathway, think of the personality of the garden, and its size. A wide straight path might do in a large garden, but a smaller space will gain from a much narrower and curving layout. The materials used should also reflect that personality. A natural shade garden will be complemented by moss-covered steppingstones or some other casual material. A formal garden will want the

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Flagstones can be placed close together or further apart, with steppable plants growing through.

The brick border is carried through and the pathways are made of grass.

Bark mulch through a mixed perennial border recedes when you aren’t looking directly at it.

Crushed stone leads you through and around these gardens.

Careful edging keeps this grass path looking crisp and tidy.

Pathways can be simple steppingstones that reflect the environment.

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Creeping thyme, in this case beside the paved area, where it can be tromped on to lend the air a delicious scent.

Interlocking pavers, well laid, lead between the front yard and the back. Notice how the plants sprawl over the edges.

Red mulch kept in place with dark four-by-fours is ornamental and practical.

Wooden decking makes a nice warm walkway.

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A neatly place walk is formal to fit into a tidy garden.

dignity of brick or more structured paving stones. Such a pathway may also be lined on each side to emphasize the formality.

Remember, too, to consider the environmental conditions surrounding the pathway. If it is naturally shady and wet, you will want to avoid slippery materials as the base.

A hot, sunny space may benefit from the cooling impact of groundcovers planted between steppingstones: thyme, for example, thrives in heat.

Think about what to plant along the pathway. Big plants such as hydrangea or sprawling roses, should be set well back from the walk so they have room to reach out without obstructing passing foot traffic. Structured plants such as rounded dwarf cedars can be planted on the margins to define the path. A creeping plant that will spill over the edges of the walkway will soften the severity of a more linear walk.

Try to create a destination for the pathway. This can be defined by adding an arbour with some seating or a fountain at the end.

Many homeowners will find the first place they need to develop that pathway is from the front yard to the back leading between houses. These spaces are generally straight and narrow leaving little scope for curving or much else. Sometimes this space is dark and shaded. If this is the case, a path leading though pea gravel is often the best option. It can still become a beautiful feature by adding some statuary and potted shade annuals. If wide enough, this can even become a sanctuary at the end of a hot day if you add a bench or some other seating.

Pathways create order and purpose in a garden. Plan carefully. Y Issue 2

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Looking to grow your gardening skills?

Canada’s Local Gardener magazine puts what you need to know right at your fingertips!

Download Canada’s Local Gardener app on your mobile device and discover other digital editions of the Gardener! localgardener.net

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For more details go to localgardener.net • Connect with us

2021 • 23

Reliable, must-have perennial plants every gardener should try I

Hydrangea.

Peony.

24 • 2021

By Dorothy Dobbie

t is a challenge to choose plants for a new garden.

They are all so enticing, and each of us has our own vision of beauty and wonder. But some plants are more reliable than others are and really do a solid, dependable job in any garden.

While new gardeners are often thrilled by the big, blowsy blossoms of more tender plants, the long-time gardener will appreciate these but understand that they are often ephemeral, need fussing and many are fair weather friends. Literally.

Instead, experienced gardeners choose the hardy imports and native plants as the real workhorses of a perennial garden. Many of the natives are very showy.

Then there are the exotics, those plants that have adapted well to our climate including shrubby plants such as hydrangeas, peonies and roses, and true herbaceous flowers including delphiniums and phlox. All these plants have been bred to be extremely hardy in Canada.

The hardy imports Hydrangeas. Hydrangeas will take partial shade, getting by, if planted with a southern exposure, on as little as three hours of sun a day. The heritage varieties, Hydrangea arborescens and H. paniculata, both bigleafed hydrangeas that need medium to moist soil, are hardy to Zone 3. They are tremendous performers in the right spot. Especially lovely is H. arborescens ‘Annabelle’, a plant that has been gracing Canadian gardens for decades. She produces big white puffballs from June or July to August and up to early September depending on where you live. The flowers are beautiful cut for a bowl or dried for winter enjoyment.

Today, there are cultivars that cover the rainbow of colours in the whites, pinks and even and blue, but these are fussier and may pose a challenge for a new gardener.

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Single peonies.

‘Never Alone’ rose.

Rose 'Morden Sunrise'.

Peonies (Paeonia). Think of the beautiful peony; surely few things more lovely exist. The cultivars from Japan, the Itoh peonies, which are a cross breed between traditional herbaceous peonies and tree peonies, come in stunning, almost fluorescent, colours. No spring garden should be without peonies which also provide nice shrubby backdrops post bloom and that add substance to the garden. If you hate the petal drop after a heavy rain, try some of the exquisite single-bloom varieties.

Peonies can live up to 80 years and even beyond if their roots are divided every so often.

Roses (Rosa). Many of the first Europeans to inhabit Canada were the British and the French, who both love roses and have spent a couple of hundred years figuring out what works in our climate. Some of the very best roses come from two of the country’s harshest climates: Manitoba and Ottawa. Using root stock from the wild localgardener.net

Blue delphinium.

rose that grows naturally on this continent has made all sorts of cultivars possible.

From a heritage and hardiness perspective, rely on the three series of bush roses bred in Canada. The Parkland series was bred in Morden, Manitoba, and the Explorers series and the Artists series come from Ottawa and the Agricultural Canada people. Take a look at the small patio rose, ‘Never Alone’. It is a single-petalled pink, merging to white in the centre. It never stops blooming, nor does the pink multi-petalled Explorer ‘Lambert Closse’. It blooms from spring through to October.

Wonderful varieties are emerging all the time and, while they aren’t the tea roses of England, they range from lovely singles to multi-petalled floribundas that would satisfy any yen for big blooms.

These roses are easy-care plants that don’t require complicated pruning or special protection, but they do like plenty of air. Every garden should have some. They come in all sort of heights and spreads, from creeping carpet roses to bush roses that can vary from three to six feet, to climbers. Many will re-bloom in fall. They need full sun to partial shade, requiring four to six hours of sun a day.

Delphiniums. Tall and statuesque, delphiniums cause a stir wherever they bloom. They steal the show in any garden. The Pacific Giants are particularly magnificent and can reach six feet or more in brilliant colour ranging from white to shades of blue and purple to mauve. They might require staking.

They have a small little annual cousin, the larkspur, which is a delightful companion and very easy to grow from a few seeds.

Delphs are rather short-lived perennials but they generously self-sow and will appear to stay around for a long time as they regenerate from seed. They don’t add bone to the garden as do peonies and rose, but they may rebloom in fall if you cut them back early. Full sun, although they will do well in part afternoon shade. Rich, moist soil.

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Larkspur.

Phlox.

Rudbeckia.

Filipendula.

Phlox. Nothing is more rewarding than phlox in a Canadian garden because they come into their own just when it seems that the garden is done for the summer.

The early varieties start putting on a show in late July and one or another of them keeps on blooming right through to September and beyond.

This is a very reliable perennial, easy to grow and needing little care. ‘David’ is one of the very best. It is pure white and is just three feet in height and spread.

It keeps its place with dignity and does not sprawl although clumps will get incrementally larger. There are also pinks, purples, red and bi-colour varieties.

Daylilies (Hemerocallis). Now that the red lily leaf beetle has all but spoiled the joy of growing lilies in many Canadian gardens, daylilies have become more important as the go-to flower in the midsummer garden. Their strappy leaves provide some eye relief all year round and when they send up their showy scapes 26 • 2021

Phlox 'David'.

Veronica spicata.

of dazzling blooms, the world stops to have a second look. There are even rebloomers, not just in yellow as in the tried and true ‘Stella d’Oro’, but now in purples and pinks.

These lovely flowers can do well in both sun and part shade and also provide the garden with bones, their leaves almost as attractive as the flowers, adding texture to the border in the non-blooming stages.

The natives The truly healthy Canadian garden will have a substantial number of native flowers, both for beauty and to satisfy the local pollinators. There are so many wonderful choices, but we will start with a group of must-haves for new gardeners to build on.

Bee balm or bergamot (Monarda). The lovely native bee balm is an irresistible pollinator and bird attractor. It smells wonderful. It usually can escape its tidy clumps as it has a rhizomatous root system. It blooms Issue 2

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Bee balm.

Daylily 'Blue Eyes'.

Veronica teucrium 'Royal Blue'.

in pink, red or purple. Anywhere from 24 to 36 inches tall (sometimes a little taller if really happy), it blooms in mid summer.

Yellow coneflower or brown-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia). No fall garden is complete without the yellow-ray blooms of this cheery prairie plant. A short-lived perennial, there are also biennial and annual varieties that will self-sow quite willingly. That is one of the charming things about the natives; they like to plant themselves in the fall to spring back to life the coming year.

Rudbeckia hirta ‘Moreno’ has wide swathes of red blending to yellow surrounding dark brown centres. Some have green centres as in R. ‘Lorraine Sunshine’ and ‘Irish Eyes`. There are also double varieties. Clumps are generally 18 inches to 2 feet wide.

Meadowsweet (Filipendula). Filipendula rubra, also known as queen of the prairie, is a very rewarding native variety. Very tall, sometime reaching seven to localgardener.net

Culver's root (Veronicastrum virginicum).

eight feet in midsummer, queen of the prairie sends up glorious plumes of pink resembling candyfloss. It likes rich humus soil and will grow in part shade and sun. It spreads graciously over many years. Put this plant at the back of the garden to provide a stunning backdrop for big-leafed hostas.

Speedwell (Veronicastrum and Veronica). There are many veronicas, but a nice planting companion for the giant filipendula is Veronicastrum virginicum, commonly called Culver’s root. ‘Diane’ is a statuesque white variety that bees and butterflies cannot resist.

If you like blue, then you will love Veronica teucrium ‘Royal Blue’. A low-growing plant at perhaps 20 inches, it blooms for many weeks, leaving a nice well-behaved clump behind when the blooms are spent.

Finally, best known perhaps is Veronica spicata, also called spike veronica, with its spikes of blue of purple.

This is another long lasting staple in the garden.

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Joe Pye weed.

Echinacea 'Green Envy'.

‘Karl Foerster’ sets the stage.

Joe Pye weed (Eupatorium). A hero in any garden but much taken for granted in Canada is Joe Pye weed.

I have seen Joe Pye taking pride of place in a many an English garden. There are now many cultivars, and they are all wonderful. This is another butterfly and bee magnet. Joe Pye blooms in late summer and likes a dampish location. The flowers are umbels of pink, red or white.

Purple coneflower (Echinacea). Coneflower has been bred in so many permutations now that it is hard to remember the original stately flower with its purplish rays surrounding a mounded centre. Now the hybrids come in every colour of the rainbow from white to orange to red and yellow and with many different-shaped blooms. But the simple old wildflower graces the garden with dignity and a long-lasting display in late summer.

Blanketflower (Gaillardia). Gaillardia is another of 28 • 2021

Echinacea purpurea.

Viburnum.

our natives that has been twisted into many shapes and sizes, but the original is quite stunning with its red and yellow petals surrounding a nectar-rich centre. It is easy to grow from seed and will bloom for long weeks throughout summer. It is perfect for that hot dry place in the garden. It grows as both an annual and as a perennial.

‘Karl Foerster’ grasses (Calmagrostis x acutiflora).

If there is a stalwart in the garden, ‘Karl Foerster’ is it. A North American native, this upright plant is statuesque and beautiful in all seasons, bright green in summer, developing its feather reed tops as the season progresses and fading to a creamy gold in fall. It stays aloft all winter. ‘Karl Foerster’ is a clumping grass, staying staunchly in its structured space. It is ideal for a dry, sunny yard, perhaps planted among river stone in disciplined rows. It grows three to four feet tall and the clumps have a spread of 18 to 24 inches.

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Echinacea simulata.

Lilac.

Gaillardia cultivar.

Lilac hedge.

The Woody Bones Recommending shrubs across the country can be tricky as southern Ontario and the Coastal regions support far more variety than the Zone 3 regions that span most of Canada, but the tried and true shrubs that can form the bones of a new garden even in the higher-Zone regions.

Viburnum. This group of shrubs will grow anywhere from Zone 2 and up and its variations are stunning. It can be a small compact dwarf shrub at 1 to 2 feet tall and wide to a 20-foot tree. It often, but not always, features maple-leaf shaped, corrugated leaves. It is very hardy and reliable, happy to grow in sun or part shade, depending on the variety. Some feature lovely leaves, some brilliant berries as in ‘Blueberry Muffin’ and others, such as the snowball viburnum, have big hydrangea-type blossoms. Nannyberry is a viburnum as is the highbush cranberry. localgardener.net

Lilac (Syringa). We all think we know lilacs, that familiar bringer of spring joy, but much has happened over the past number of years. There are many varieties of this beautiful shrub, some of them re-blooming, some with picotee flowers that have a white rim around the edges of each tiny blossom and others that will stay small and compact.

They range in colour from pink to purple to white, with many shades in between. Some are more fragrant and some have tubular-shaped blossoms instead of the tight flowers of the traditional lilac. It pays to check your preferences carefully and know what to ask for when purchasing. Check also for scent.

Heritage types can live for 200 years. They can grow pretty much anywhere in the more populated areas of Canada.

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2021 • 29

Barberry Sunjoy 'Mini Maroon'.

Pulmonaria.

as a spreader of rust disease that affected wheat crops. It re-emerged a few years ago with that negative characteristic bred out and it has proven to be a real winner for its plethora of sizes, shapes and amazing leaf colour. Barberry also has sharp thorns. Some bear red berries, although they do not have showy flowers. It is available in sizes from very small dwarf, to medium mounded to large spreading varieties. Colours range from glowing lime green to reds to burgundies and even orange. Some leaf colour changes with moving light. This is an excellent choice to add texture and all season colour to the perennials bed.

Spirea. Hardy and healthy, spirea puts on a show in springtime, producing umbels of pink or sprays of white, depending on the variety. Goldflame spirea is a mounded, medium height and spread shrub that can form the bones of a perennial bed. The leaves are yellow-green and they put out small pink flowers. Some varieties, such as Spirea japonica ‘Froebelii’, have showier pink umbels over clear green leaves. The bridal wreath spireas are spreading in 30 • 2021

Bridalwreath spirea.

Pulmonaria, milky and spotted.

form and have sprays of white blossoms.

Dogwood (Cornus). Dogwood trees are common in some parts of the country, but perhaps not as well know is the dogwood shrub.

Dogwood shrubs are reliable in most of Canada. The dwarf shrub, Cornus sericea ‘Farrow’ has dark red twigs that make a great show against a winter landscape. It maxes out at four to five feet wide and tall. Tolerant of half shade, the foliage is dark green in summer and turns red in fall. C. sericea ‘Bud’s Yellow’ is larger, six to eight feet, and it sports bright yellow twigs.

There are several other varieties worth looking at. The variegated C. alba ‘Cream Cracker’ is four to five feet.

Its leaves are green with golden margins on new foliage, fading to cream as the season progressions. C. alba ‘Jefreb’ is small, at three to four feet, and has coral red bark and crisp green summer leaves that run red in fall.

C. alba ‘Ivory Halo’ displays white margined green leaves and reached four to five feet in height.

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‘Goldmound’ spirea.

Creeping thyme.

‘Silver variegated’ dogwood.

Groundcovers Groundcovers are plants that grow low and spread to cover a wide patch of bare ground. The thing that makes them groundcovers—their ability to spread—also makes them difficult if the wrong choice is made or if they are too happy.

Fortunately, there are a number of well-behaved plants that can take up the groundcover challenge without becoming rampant. There are also some that should be avoided unless you really know what you are doing.

One more word of caution: groundcovers can take some time to establish so don’t get fooled by that recently planted goutweed that seems to be quite docile—in a couple of years, it will spring to life and overpower everything in its path!

Lungwort (Pulmonaria). This plant used as a specimen or in masses as a groundcover is a winner in a shady spot or in sunshine. The common spotted variety lights up the shade and, in springtime, it blooms early with localgardener.net

Ajuga flowers.

Woolly thyme.

pretty pink or blue or white flowers. When blooming is over the flower stems die back; pull them to keep the clumps looking tidy. It grows six to eight inches in height with big, broad, fuzzy leaves.

Thyme (Thymus). Thyme is a good groundcover. It is fragrant and it is easy to keep under control. Creeping thyme is covered in little mauve flowers. It is less than three inches high. Bees love it when in bloom and it is a great herb for flavouring. It prefers it dry, gritty soil, doing well as a filler between pavers or stepping stones, and it enjoys full sun, but woolly thyme will grow in partial shade. There are many varieties.

Bugleweed (Ajuga). This ground hugger has shiny evergreen leaves that can be green or chocolate brown.

It is a member of the mint family so you know it will spread but Zone-3 gardeners may find it easier to keep under control. It is mat forming and sends up little spires of purple, sometimes white, flowers. It typically prefers shade so is a little less rampant in sun.

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Creeping phlox.

Pink creeping phlox flowers.

Bishop's goutweed.

Creeping phlox (Phlox subulata and P. stolonifera).

One of the prettiest groundcovers is creeping phlox, also known as moss phlox. Growing just four to six inches tall, it is a mass of pink, red, white, blue or mauve flowers in spring. Full sun is best for this lovely and it prefers well drained soil. Forms a mat.

Lamb’s ears (Stachys). Kids will love the soft strokeable lamb’s ear. Their tiny pink, white or mauve flowers appear in summer. For the best groundcover, look for the dwarf varieties growing about four inches tall. Silvery gray, it makes a nice contrast with greener plants. Lamb’s ear is happy even in part shade.

Groundcovers and others to avoid While no plant is evil, some can be more determined than others, and much depends on the zone you live in. What might be manageable in Zone 3 32 • 2021

Lamium galeobdolon.

could be a nightmare in a warmer zone. Be sure to consult with the local garden centre before making a final choice.

Among the biggest offenders even in cooler zones is bishop’s goutweed (Aegopodium podagraria), that lovely variegated green and white plant that has lovely lace flowers, but which will overtake most competitors. Some lamium, Lamium galeobdolon is the worst, can also be a vicious spreader. Both these plant are taller than the ground hugging types or ground covers.

Not a groundcover technically is creeping bellflower. Very persistent, it will be your friend or enemy for life, whether you like it or not!

Striped ribbon grass is a menace, very hard to control. And while we all love the smell of lily of the valley, and she will grow in shade, she travels as fast Issue 2

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Lamb's ear.

Englemann ivy.

Lamb's ear in blossom.

Lonicera ‘Dropmore Scarlet’.

as she can toward to the sunny place where you don’t necessarily want her.

These plants grow either “stoloniferously”, meaning that the plant roots travel via over ground stems that send down roots when they touch the earth at stem junctures (such as strawberries) or rhizomatically, travelling with the aid of under the surface roots that send up new plants from root junctions.

Vines Gardeners often dream of lovely vines draping over fences or arbours or along trellises.

Englemann ivy (Parthenocissus quinquefolia var. englemannii). When looking for the big-leafed vine that often covers fences, garden centres often sell Virginia creeper without telling the buyer that is just what this vine does: it creeps and can be tough to deal with and it can become invasive. At best, it localgardener.net

Clematis ‘Jackmanii’.

needs support and help to climb a vertical structure.

The plant to buy is Englemann ivy, a variation of Virginia creeper, which has clinging feet and doesn’t need any special help to climb a wall. It turns a deep rich red in fall.

Honeysuckle vine (Lonicera) ‘Dropmore Scarlet’.

If you love hummingbirds then this honeysuckle vine is a sure magnet for these tiny birds. It does need a trellis to support its twining stems, but its pretty reddish-pink flowers make the trouble worth it.

Clematis ‘Jackmanii’. The easiest and most reliable big flowered clematis is the purple ‘Jackmanii’.

It likes morning sun and cool roots, something you can accomplish by planting something to add shade at the lower level just in front of the vine or add two or three inches of mulch at the base of the plant. It too is a twiner so will need a trellis to climb on. Y Issue 2

2021 • 33

Hosta and other shade plants

A shady corner filled with hostas, with ligularia behind and geranium in front.

W

hat to plant in the shady spot in the garden is a time-honoured question.

But the answers are not as straightforward and direct as you might think, because shade is not an absolute.

There is dappled shade and part shade and deep shade and many variations in between. Deep shade is the most difficult and very little will grow where no light gets in. If you think about it, this just makes sense if you know that plants require light as the essential building block of life. Deep shade would be that place between houses where the sun never shines. You might get some moss to grow there.

What many people call deep shade is probably more dappled shade,

34 • 2021

under trees where light does filter through in a diminished way. Just as in the forest, where plants grow under trees in the densest areas, many plants are born to thrive here.

This would include some, but not all, hostas, brunnera, pulmonaria (lungwort), goatsbeard, ligularia, astilbe, bergenia and heuchera (coral bells) to name a few. These are some of the mainstays of the shade garden. Many of the groundcovers are shade plants: the lamium, lily-ofthe-valley, mints, Canadian ginger, wood violets, ferns and so on.

But before rushing out to buy these plants, there are a few more questions to answer: is the shady site dry or wet? Is the soil rich with organic matter or sandy? Does the sun ever get around to shining in the Issue 2

spot for a few hours and if so, how many hours?

See? Shade gardens are not that simple. Having said that, they are deliciously cool and restful and well worth the effort to learn what does work. Dry shade is the most difficult, but many hostas are fine in dry shade as are heuchera, ajuga, cushion spurge, pulmonaria, astilbe and lamium.

Needing plenty of moisture is ligularia, Canadian ginger, wood violets, some ferns, lady’s mantle, some hostas, meconopsis (Himalayan blue poppy) and foxgloves.

This is not an exhaustive list. It is simply intended to give the novice gardener some starter ideas and these are all easy to grow and care for plants. Y localgardener.net

Lamium ‘Pink Pewter’.

Bunnera variegata.

Astilbe.

Ligularia ‘The Rocket’ with sedum. localgardener.net

Ligularia ‘Desdomona’.

Goatsbeard.

Heucheras.

Lily of the valley.

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Beautiful Gardens of Canada 36 • 2021

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Shelley and Gord Toews

S

Coaldale, Alberta

helley has been gardening since she was a little girl, about 45 years.

When she was young, she pulled weeds, some of them as big as her.

She’s lived in Coaldale for three years.

“What I love about gardening is the joy it brings and how it can relax you just to get out in the yard and dig in the dirt.

And you see all the results from your hard work. All the colours and sweet scents of the flowers.”

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2021 • 37

Michael Ball

Brandon, Manitoba

M

ichael has been gardening since he was a child, growing tomatoes and flowers.

He’s been in his current home since 2012.

“I love gardening because I love producing some food. Fresh vegetables are the best and healthy. I use the product to make chili sauce and other foods. I like to watch the plants grow and being out in the sun on a hot summer’s day. I really love the brilliant colours of the flowers.”

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Ron and Marlene Klassen Outlook, Saskatchewan

M

arlene has been gardening since she was a child, helping her mother on the farm in the 1960s, then in her own garden in 1973. From 2004 to 2019, they owned 40 acres in Pike Lake, Saskatchewan, where daughter Melanie Dyck helped grow perennials, fruit, trees and shrubs; they also had a pond. From there, the three moved to their current location.

“My love of gardening has provided mental respite from work demands over the years, the opportunity to be physically active and enjoy being outdoors in all seasons and the joy of celebrating nature through bountiful harvests, beautiful flowers and so many other gardening wonders that I’m truly grateful for.”

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Madeline and Andy Sherren

M

Edmonton

adeline took up gardening when they moved into their home 13 years ago. She and Andy have 11-year-old twins, Nina and Rio. “I love providing my family with nourishing healing food and herbs.

I'm currently enrolled at Wild Rose College to become a certified herbalist, and I'm passionate about growing my own food and herbs.”

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Beverly and Curtis Penner

Glenora, Manitoba

B

everly grew up on a farm, watching her mother nurture the garden. When she and Curtis got married in 1981, she started her own garden on a rural lot. Then in 1987, she took over her mother-in-law’s vegetable and flower gardens, the fourth generation of Penners on the farm. They celebrated 100 years in 2017, and at that time passed the farm to the fifth generation, their daughter and her husband.

Beverly and Curtis moved to Rock Lake, Manitoba. The terrain is rocky with rolling hills, quite different from the flat prairie of the farm.

“We had to adapt as we learned to adjust and correct washouts due to excess rains on slopes, how to keep deer, groundhogs and squirrels away and try to get grass to grow on shale and in the shade of many oak trees instead of rich black earth in the sunshine,” Beverly explains.

“I have always loved gardening because of the peacefulness that I feel while working outside. Whether it was the many, many hours spent mowing our large farmyard or now puttering on our lake front property, I find it both relaxing and rewarding.” localgardener.net

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Jeff and Sarah Bergeron Winnipeg

J

eff has been gardening for most of his 30 or so years. It was mostly container gardening as an adult, but this past year, he and Sarah and their kids Emily (age 9), Juliette (age 4) and William (age 3) rented a big 18-by-40-foot garden plot.

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“Gardening for me is a very calming and therapeutic experience. I enjoy the magic of planting a seed and seeing if become a full mature plant that can provide food for my family and me. It’s also a great experience for the kids to get out to the garden and learn about hard work and where our food comes from.”

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Lois Maclennan

L

Winnipeg

ois is a retired speech and language pathologist who is a certified Master Gardener. She volunteered when the Oakview Place Long Term Home sought help for their gardens, which were weedy with brambles and overgrown bushes. “With the help of seven other master gardeners, staff, residents and community volunteers and high school students we have restored both the front and back green spaces during the past three summers,” she says.

This summer was challenging with COVID-19 regulations; the gardeners were

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allowed to do their work for two hours, once per week. Like us all, they managed, and the residents had beautiful gardens to be in when their families visited at a safe distance, outside the fence.

“Gardening gives me a sense of serenity and invigorates me in other areas of my life.

Time slips by without awareness and allows one the opportunity to reflect and experience peace and happiness.”

2021 • 43

Twyla and Luke Bartel

Rosenort, Manitoba

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T

wyla began gardening 23 years ago when she and Luke got married and bought their fiveacre farmyard. “The farm had a beautiful perennial garden which won my heart, but I was young, newly married, beginning a teaching career and we landed up re-landscaping the yard meaning many of the perennials did not survive. The first decade was a big learning curve as I tried to learn the art of gardening and it was filled with more failures than

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successes, especially with four little ones underfoot,” she says.

With the kids—Jennessa, Jayden, Kara and Collin—grown older, she’s been able to put more time into the garden, turning it into an oasis for the family to enjoy.

“I find being in the outdoors, surrounded by the beauty of flowers, to be very therapeutic. I also love color, art and design, with flowers being my favorite medium to create with!”

localgardener.net

Joan and Paul Moore Niagara Falls, Ontario

A

side from working in her parents’ vegetable garden, Joan really got going on gardening in 2005 in her own yard. She and Paul built a log house in 1989 and had a few shrubs, trees, goutweed and ivy at the time.

Her efforts have been recognized.

After winning two gold prizes from the City of Niagara Falls for the street view of her yard, last summer, she won the Award of Excellence.

“Gardening is my down time with my thoughts. I also love colours and the new growth; I look for new buds or blooms coming and walk around the yard daily. Love seeing the birds at the feeder and hummingbirds in the yard.

Even cutting the grass is preferred over cooking! Come winter, my houseplants come indoors and this also feeds my appetite for nature.” localgardener.net

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Tammie-Lee and Doug Rogowski Stonewall, Manitoba

T

ammie-Lee and Doug bought their acreage with over 100 oak trees and just one peony along the side of the bush in 1996. Other than that, it was a blank canvas. That is when she started to garden. Today, she and Doug live there with their daughter Caitlin and a number of pets; their son Michael has moved out.

“I am a creative person and I am a palliative care nurse; gardening feeds my soul. I have a need to see life in bloom to know I’ve created something beautiful. Gardening gives me a deep appreciation of the changing seasons, much like our own existence.”

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Nicole Deibert

N

Edmonton

icole comes from a long line of gardeners, including her grandfather, mother and two aunts. She has been gardening in earnest since 2010, when she moved into her current house.

Just this fall she planted 80 bulbs, including allium, hyacinths and daffodils. She’s looking forward to spring.

“I love playing with leaf and flower textures and colours in my front yard.

It’s so neat to see what you can accomplish with the available plants in your area. In my back yard, I grow my vegetable garden and fruit trees.”

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Lydia Skourides Péquegnat and Pete Péquegnat Toronto

L

ydia started gardening seven years ago, when she married and moved in with husband Pete. They called their yard The Secret Garden because Pete had neglected it for the first five years he lived there, claiming to have a black thumb. When Lydia arrived, she started to tame the impenetrable garden. In non-pandemic times, it makes a lovely waiting area for students and parents who come to her home for music lessons.

Lydia was itinerant for much of her life before marriage, going to school in Brandon, Manitoba and pursuing an opera career in Germany. “I have been in this house for 7 years. It's the longest I have ever lived in one place, so I really wanted to take the time to create a beautiful home,” she says. The couple live there with their young son, Xavier, and their two ginger cats.

“What I love about gardening is how therapeutic and creative it is.

One of my other hobbies is sculpture with polymer clay. It tends to be very detailed and nit-picky; gardening allows me to create with a really big medium while having the sun on my back. The result is so satisfying: a little oasis in the middle of a busy city.”

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Carol and Wayne Pate Carstairs, Alberta

C

arol started gardening when she was 10, helping her grandparents transplant seedlings in their greenhouse.

It became a passion in her 20s to have colour and greenery wherever she lives, and it continues to this day. She and Wayne have lived in Carstairs for 10 years.

“Gardening gives us a sense of being one with nature. Growing your own food is very rewarding, and having flowers, trees and shrubs to view daily gives us a sense of accomplishment, plus provides a private oasis for rest and relaxation. As well, it exposes the world of birds and insects in more detail because of their relationship to the plants we provide for them. It is a great stress reliever to work in the dirt!”

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Shane and Todd

S

Cooks Creek, Manitoba

hane has lived on their hobby farm for 15 years. He made three raised beds in 2019 and added to them in 2020.

“Nothings more calming then coming home from a busy day and

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stopping to look at your garden on the way into your house. The enjoyment of watching it grow until the harvest, when you get to enjoy healthy tasty food that you yourself made happen!

It is rewarding, for sure.”

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Jennifer Grad Toronto

J

ennifer does some gardening, but the garden at her home was done when she and her dog, Cassidy, moved there seven years ago. She keeps it up with the help of a professional gardener.

“What I love about gardening is planting something small and then watching it grow and bloom over the years.”

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Jean and Kirk Rutherford Midland, Ontario

Rewards

J

Photos by Darrell Richards

ean styles herself as The Garden Jeanie and her husband as Captain Kirk. As a child, she loved to play in the dirt of the family’s vegetable garden, which she continues to do now, after 43 years in their current home.

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localgardener.net 09/12/2020 4:32:50 PM

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Light in the night garden

By Shauna Dobbie

Light on house and trees.

Y

You can put candle lanterns on a shepherd’s hook to lift the light.

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our garden is another place after the sun goes down. No more bees buzzing or butterflies flitting or children laughing.

After dark is time for moths and fireflies and secrets softly told. The night garden is a magical place, and with a little lighting, it can be bewitching.

Power First off, let’s look at what you don’t need: a whole lotta power.

LEDs are enough to light your yard and they will keep your electricity bill down. Use them.

Non-electric Fire, the original illuminator. A fire pit, if your municipality allows it, creates instant ambiance. Tiki torches give a festive glow. And candles create romance and subdued light. Put them inside of lanterns so the wind can’t blow them out.

DIY String lights can go just about anywhere in your yard and add Issue 2

radiance. Tack them to the top of an arbour or along your fence. Hang them in trees. String them overhead.

There are the little fairy lights, which are great for tiny pricks of illumination among the foliage.

There are bigger-bulbed festoon lights, which make a statement on their own; you can use them to define a space by outlining it.

What about glow stones? These luminescent pebbles aren’t for everyone, but they’ll give an eerie brilliance if massed together.

Solar lights are plug and play without the plug. They come in all shapes and sizes now. Look online for fantastic forms.

Call an electrician Get someone who knows what they’re doing to install lights that you’ll control with a switch.

In this category, you can mix and match fixtures designed to light trees, your house, fence, walklocalgardener.net

Notice the festoon lights in the pergola and decorative fixtures lighting the garden.

By lighting the water feature and the trees, this scene from the Montreal Botanical Garden looks like it’s glowing from within. And by not lighting the water, you get a mirror image of the scene below.

What to do when solar lights don’t work 1. Check to see if there’s an on-off switch. Turn it on.

2. Check if there’s a plastic pull-tab to prevent the battery from being engaged. Pull it out and throw it away.

3. Is it dark out? Most won’t work when it’s light out.

4. Make sure the solar panel is clean and that nothing is between the panel and the sun during the day.

5. Refresh the battery. If everything else is in order, your battery may be worn out. Open the battery case and replace. localgardener.net

For about $10 in string lights, this eating area was raised from ordinary to celebratory.

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way and stairs. You can also have an expert hardwire lamps to light a patio dining table or conversation area. A chandelier above an outdoor table? Why not! There are some made for outdoors now. Y

Two reasons to light up your garden

From under this bandshell, the world beyond would fade to blackness. It would feel like being in space.

The carriage of flowers glows in the dark with a gentle splash of light on it.

To see Up to 80 percent of your impressions come to you through sight, and sight is nothing without light. You need to consider what the lights will do where you put them. If they’re for a task, such as barbecuing, you will need enough light to distinguish colour, to tell if meat is cooked. If they’re for an area for quiet conversation, a candle might be enough, whereas in an area for a gathering, you’d need more generalized light, coming from multiple sources.

For ambiance How much of the world around you do you see at any given time?

To get to your front door, it’s helpful to see the walk and nice to see the flowers along the walk or the bare and stately limbs of a tree or trees in winter. For a meal on the patio, you’ll need to see each other’s faces and the food you’re eating, but not necessarily in stark daylight terms. A little mystery afforded by some lower lighting can make the mood of the gathering more dynamic.

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Discover the gold standard in home improvement television with Emmywinner This Old House and its spin-off, Ask This Old House, airing back-to-back Thursdays at 7pm.

56 • 2021

To place a classified ad in Canada’s Local Gardener, call 1-888-680-2008 or email info@localgardener.net for rates and information.

Cable Channel 3

Get social with Canada’s Local Gardener

prairiepublic.org www.localgardener.net Issue 2

localgardener.net

Fences

By Shauna Dobbie

The white picket fence with bright flowers in front of it makes you dream of an ideal home.

E

very fence tells a story. Whether or not that story is one you want to tell depends on your design.

You may inherit a fence when you move into a home or you may choose one for cost more than beauty; whatever reason exists behind the design of your fence, there are ways to make it say what you want about your property.

There are four purposes for a fence: to keep things in, to keep them out, to delineate a space, and for other aesthetic reasons.

There are many styles to consider when choosing a

Solid white fence offers ultimate privacy and a nice backdrop for the flowers in the garden. localgardener.net

fence. Do you want absolute privacy from prying eyes, or no privacy or something in between? Do you want to look rustic or grand? Do you want to make a statement or fit in with your neighbours?

Once you’ve answered these questions, you’ll have to review your responses through the lens of practicality: how much it will cost. This could be the deciding factor between whether you get a wooden fence or a stone wall. If your dreams and your pocketbook have little in common, don’t despair; you can always plant along the fence line to make it look fantastic. Y

Wide boards, painted windows and stained glass for a homemade look.

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This one is made a little special by alternating tall fat boards by shorter and thinner boards.

Chain link brought up a notch by wooden structural borders. The chain link does the job of letting sun in while keeping animals out.

The lattice at the top of this fence is a half see-through division between the solid wood below and the absence of it above.

This variation of the typical suburban fence, with boards staggered on both sides, is often known as the good neighbour fence.

The gardener wanted a different look for this area so she covered the wooden fence with a bamboo screen.

Bamboo or twig fences are a temporary measure to keep people from going beyond an area.

The scalloped top offers panache to this white picket fence.

Page wire screens a split rail fence to keep out smaller animals like chickens and rabbits.

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Chain link as an animal barrier almost disappears, especially when you grow plants in front of it.

This black aluminum fence gives a modern look of iron.

A split rail fence gives definition in this garden.

Green chain link really blends in with all the greenery behind it.

These gardeners had a lot of old stone from a barn to deal with, so they built a wall.

A looped wire fence will keep shorter critters out of the potager.

Wrought iron or aluminum in the front, white rails and doors and lattice in the back.

Here’s a gate made of wheels, painted black to match.

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Raised bed possibilities R

aised beds add another dimension to the garden literally, going from ground level to higher ground. Aside from the aesthetic pleasure this provides, it gives the gardener’s knees some ease, possibly getting you up off the ground for weeding. And it enables beds to dry out and warm up faster in the springtime, which means you can plant earlier.

A raised bed can also give you an area with different soil, such as a lower pH to grow acid-loving plants like blueberries and azaleas in, or a higher pH to grow tomatillos and artichokes. (Of course, this depends on your soil’s natural pH, which is different across the country. Test it with a kit from the garden centre.)

And it can give you an area to garden in if you live on rock or sand, or if your garden is on a terrace, balcony or roof. (If it’s a terrace, balcony or roof, please consult an engineer for how much weight the structure can take; gardening gets heavy.)

Whether you’re handy with a hammer, strong for moving rocks, or looking for something premade, here are some solutions to inspire you. Y

You can buy metal corners at hardware stores.

These gardeners built a series of raised beds in a corner of their yard for ease of tending vegetables.

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This Danish garden is all raised beds. The rocks help keep the borders separate from the grass paths.

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Form and function in this multi-layered bed.

A tractor tire gives just enough room for a few flowers, and it protects the pump in the middle.

A galvanized tub. localgardener.net

This raised bed is against a fence. It adds dimension to the yard.

Getting creative at a garden centre with a pallet board. These pieces of culvert are perfect for raised beds.

Raised bed along the back of the yard, walled in with wood.

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Basil.

Asparagus.

Beans.

Companion planting guide I

n the vegetable garden, some plants are like good neighbours, trading recipes and tools, and others just don’t work together.

This is the idea behind companion planting, a now-traditional way of deciding which veggies go together and which should be kept apart.

Although there are a few relationships where one vegetable actu-

Corn.

62 • 2021

ally benefits the growth of another, such as with legumes (beans and peas) fixing nitrogen in the soil for carrots and corn, most companion planting is based on the following: attracting beneficial insects to the garden or discouraging harmful insects.

In addition, there are several flowers that attract harmful insects

that would otherwise go to your vegetables. Some of these flowers are calendula, French marigold, nasturtium, chrysanthemum, sweet alyssum and zinnia.

When you’re planning your plots for spring, here’s a handy chart to have nearby. Do your best to keep bad neighbours apart and good neighbours closer together. Y

Vegetable

Good neighbours

Bad neighbours

Asparagus

Basil, cilantro, lettuce, oregano, pepper, sage, thyme, tomato

Garlic, onion, potato

Basil

Asparagus, kale, oregano, pepper, tomato

Bean

Beet, broccoli, cabbage, carrot, cauliflower, celery, corn, cucumber, eggplant, lettuce, pea, potato, pumpkin, radish, strawberry, sweet potato, Swiss chard, tomato, zucchini

Sage

Cucumber, fennel, garlic, leek, onion, pepper

Cucumber.

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Broccoli.

Dill. localgardener.net

Carrot.

Cauliflower.

Beet

Bean, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, corn, garlic, kale, leek, lettuce, mint, onion, radish, sage, sweet potato, tomato

Broccoli

Bean, beet, celery, dill, onion, rosemary, spinach, Swiss chard, thyme

Cabbage, lettuce, oregano, strawberry, tomato

Cabbage

Bean, beet, celery, cucumber, dill, lettuce, mint, onion, potato, sage, spinach, Swiss chard, thyme

Broccoli, cauliflower, eggplant, radish, strawberry, tomato

Carrot

Bean, lettuce, onion, pea, radish, rosemary, sage

Dill, parsley

Cauliflower

Bean, beet, oregano, spinach, Swiss chard, thyme

Cabbage, radish, pea, potato, strawberry, tomato

Celery

Bean, broccoli, cabbage, cucumber, kale, onion, spinach, Swiss chard, tomato

Parsnip, potato

Cilantro

Asparagus, pepper

Corn

Bean, beet, cucumber, lettuce, pea, potato, pumpkin

Tomato

Cucumber

Bean, cabbage, celery, corn, garlic, kale, lettuce, pea, radish, tomato

Bean, potato

Dill

Broccoli, cabbage, sweet potato, zucchini

Carrot, tomato,

Eggplant

Bean, lettuce, pepper, potato, spinach

Cabbage, fennel

Eggplant.

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Lettuce.

Garlic.

Onions.

Bean, eggplant, pepper, strawberry, tomato, zucchini

Fennel

Pumpkin.

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Garlic

Beet, cucumber, kale, lettuce, strawberry, tomato, zucchini

Asparagus, bean, pea, pepper

Kale

Basil, beet, celery, cucumber, dill, garlic, lettuce, mint, onion, radish, rosemary, sage, spinach, thyme

Pepper, tomato

Leek

Beet, spinach

Bean, pea

Lettuce

Asparagus, bean, beet, cabbage, carrot, corn, cucumber, eggplant, kale, onion, pea, potato, radish, spinach, strawberry, tomato

Broccoli, parsley

Mint

Beet, cabbage, kale, tomato, turnip, zucchini

Onion

Beet, broccoli, cabbage, carrot, celery, kale, lettuce, pepper, potato, spinach, strawberry, tomato

Asparagus, beans, pea

Oregano

Asparagus, basil, cauliflower, sweet potato, zucchini

Broccoli

Parsley

Pepper, tomato

Carrot, lettuce

Parsnip

Sweet potato

Celery, spinach, Swiss chard

Pea

Bean, carrot, corn, cucumber, kale, lettuce, potato, radish, spinach, strawberry, turnip, zucchini

Cauliflower, garlic, leek, onion

Pepper

Asparagus, basil, carrot, cilantro, eggplant, onion, parsley, spinach, tomato

Bean, fennel, garlic

Rosemary.

Radishes.

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Parsley.

Sage. localgardener.net

Peas.

Peppers

Potato

Bean, cabbage, corn, eggplant, kale, lettuce, onion, pea, sweet potato

Asparagus, cauliflower, celery, cucumber, pumpkin, spinach, tomato, zucchini

Pumpkin

Bean, corn, spinach

Potato, sweet potato, zucchini

Radish

Bean, beet, carrot, cucumber, kale, lettuce, pea, spinach, tomato

Cabbage, cauliflower

Rosemary

Broccoli, carrot, kale, zucchini

Sage

Asparagus, beet, cabbage, carrot, kale

Basil

Spinach

Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, eggplant, kale, leek, lettuce, onion, pea, pepper, pumpkin, radish, strawberry, Swiss chard, tomato, turnip

Parsnip, potato

Strawberry

Bean, garlic, lettuce, onion, pea, spinach, thyme

Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, fennel, Swiss chard, turnip

Sweet potato

Bean, beet, dill, oregano, parsnip, potato, thyme

Pumpkin

Swiss chard

Bean, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, spinach, thyme, turnip

Parsnip, strawberry, tomato

Thyme

Asparagus, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, strawberry, sweet potato, Swiss chard, tomato, turnip

Tomato

Asparagus, basil, bean, beet, celery, cucumber, garlic, lettuce, mint, onion, oregano, parsley, pepper, radish, spinach, thyme

Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, corn, dill, fennel, kale, potato, Swiss chard, turnip

Turnip

Mint, pea, spinach, Swiss chard, thyme

Strawberry, tomato

Zucchini

Bean, dill, garlic, mint, oregano, pea, rosemary

Fennel, potato, pumpkin

Strawberries.

Tomato.

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Gardening beside the sea Lessons from an East Coast seedsman Story and photos by Dan Rubin

It’s a beautiful location, looking out on the Atlantic Ocean just north of Newfoundland's capital of St. John's. It's looking out onto Iceberg Alley!

Dan Rubin in his garden.

W

hen we moved to Newfoundland from the Gulf Islands of British Columbia almost 20 years ago, it was something of a shock for this long-time gardener. Coming from Canada’s banana belt, we were used to sheltered, warm weather on the east side of Vancouver Island, so arriving here in Newfoundland presented a series of lessons in weather, soil and growing conditions, after we

66 • 2021

The backyard garden.

purchased a waterfront home in a little town north of St. John’s.

Living here on this rocky island in the North Atlantic, the real factors are long winters and strong winds.

The winters stretch out into April and May and we get blasted with winds that work their way up to 60 miles per hour and more. For us, this has become normal, but it also means there are tricks to gardenIssue 2

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The vegetable beds, reaching toward the sea.

ing beside the sea at the edge of a wild northern ocean. The following bits of advice will apply across the country, but particularly to those of us living here in the Atlantic Provinces where seaside gardening is commonplace along our crenelated coastlines.

The real secrets for gardening here can be summed up in three words: sun, seed and soil.

While some may think that salt blown in from waves breaking on the shore has a negative impact, in actual fact that salt spray carries traces of micronutrients that have helped gardeners grow verdant, healthy vegetable crops for centuries.

Healthy soil is alive with micro-organisms, worms, arachnids, insects and fungi that give the soil its life. Living soil is aerated and enriched by all these living things. They break down nutrients derived from rotting vegetation and dead life forms, to create smaller, soluble (and therefore accessible) food for plants. The latest movement in gardening and food production is toward no-till, NOT digging, to make sure that this complex web of life is not disturbed and to keep weed seeds (waiting for the light) from germinating.

Let’s take a closer look at the foods plants need.

The three primary nutrients, labelled on your bag of chemical fertilizer, are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N, P, K). Each of these plays a key role in plant growth, supporting healthy roots, stems, leaves and fruit, to produce food for us humans. But what localgardener.net

some do not realize is that there are a range of metallic elements that are also needed, in smaller amounts.

These “micronutrients” included copper, magnesium, selenium, iron and manganese. So where do you find those? More than anywhere else, they come from the sea.

We have found it is best to not rely on chemical fertilizers, but to turn to the natural, organic amendments that are all around us and may also be free for the taking. In our gardens, maple leaves, compost, manure and seaweed provide these key inputs, and we layer them on top of our beds as mulch, where they rot down to feed and enrich the soil. Maple leaves in particular are a rich source for all the wonderful food that the roots of the maple trees have gathered through the warm weather. At the university botanical garden here in St. John’s they call maple leaves “black gold” which they harvest, shred and compost to create their famous dark, rich soil. And of course, we harvest seaweed from the shore. As the local livyers say, “You feed your garden, then your garden feeds you.” (“Livyer” is Newfoundland jargon for a person who belongs to a place.)

With well-endowed, rich organic soil in place, the next challenge is, what to grow? This is not a simple question, because we live in a cold northern climate with a short, intense growing season and changeable, uncertain weather. For us, it is essential to identify the right varieties, plants well adapted to local conditions.

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2021 • 67

Stargazer lilies.

Echinacea and a bumble bee.

Dan has managed to grow artichokes.

68 • 2021

When we discovered unique types of onions, kale and other crops well-suited to local conditions, we began to propagate and share our seeds, which led us to establish a regional seed company specializing in plants adapted to maritime conditions. After 15 years of operation, Perfectly Perennial Herbs and Seeds continues to specialize in local “land races,” true breeding perennials and self-seeding annuals well suited to our cold climate.

Where do you find seeds for the plants that do well by the sea? The answer is to turn to smaller regional seed houses that share that passion. In addition to the limited varieties we propagate ourselves, we turn to other local companies like Vesey’s on PEI, Hope Seeds and Annapolis Seeds in Nova Scotia, and a bit further afield, High Mowing Seeds, a remarkable Vermont company with a 20-year commitment to organic growing. You will find all of these online.

But even better, as a Canadian gardener, you should join Seeds of Diversity, Canada’s heritage seed network. Type in www.seeds.ca and you will find a list of almost 100 seed companies operating in Canada, including many small operations like our own. Even better, you should become a member, because that will give you access to an annual list of more than 4000 varieties propagated by fellow growers and gardeners across this country, But the most important lesson of seaside gardening beside the wild Atlantic is that we needed to find or build shelter from wind and cold. Essentially, we have learned to create micro-environments that protect our plants and crops to allow them to reach their full potential.

Raised beds are one cheap, effective way to do this.

We build ours out of untreated fir or spruce boards, 2-by-10s that we cut and assemble with 3-1/2-inch deck screws to create boxes 7 feet long and three feet wide. We find that if we build these any wider than 40 inches it is too hard to work in them. We fill these boxes with rich organic matter, starting with a triple mix from a local supplier made up of composted fish, plant waste, peat and soil. And there you are, ready to plant.

Over the years, we have learned to add a second box of the same size on top to create a wind barrier, and in winter and the shoulder seasons of spring and fall, we cover these upper boxes with lids made from recycled shower doors, or plastic stapled to a hinged frame constructed out of two-by-threes. This type of protection is simple and easy to build, with the additional money saving possibility of using recycled wood, glass and plastic to create growing space sheltered from wind and cold.

Here, on our small, municipal waterfront lot, we currently have 25 raised beds and have planted 27 fruit trees and bushes, each one carefully located in the wind shelter of a building or a tree or fencing. In this way, we can harvest a range of salad greens, squash, onions, garlic, cabbage and potatoes. But we also have had success with cherries, plums and apples and have moved on to peaches, grapes and kiwis. We have grown corn and artichokes and built a mini greenhouse over one raised bed that we call our “tomato

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A bean trellis, built and ready for beans.

The hothouse is mostly for tomatoes.

The grape arbour is a verdant place to lounge away an afternoon.

A garden with an ocean view.

house,” for those heat loving fruits.

If we have learned anything since becoming seaside gardeners on the East Coast of Canada, it is that gardening is a journey, a series of experiments, with lessons to learn and always something new to try.

Season by season and year by year, as we continue localgardener.net

to expand what we grow we have come to realize that, thanks to the available seaweed and maple leaves and great neighbours, there is no better place to be a gardener than right here, beside the sea! Y Dan Rubin is an author, musician, educator and owner of Perfectly Perennial Herbs and Seeds.

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2021 • 69

Close to the kitchen

By Shauna Dobbie

W

hen I move to a home with more land (where I can keep chickens and grow apple trees!), I will keep a little kitchen garden right outside the back door for things I need frequently through the summer. The raspberry bushes, asparagus and cauliflower will be further away, in the business part of the garden, not too far from the compost heap. Close to the kitchen, I will have the things I’ll want to step out and grab as I’m making dinner.

Greens for salads will definitely be there. Arugula and spinach and all the lettuces I can manage. These are known as “cut and come again” greens. What you do is cut the outer leaves only, while the plant is growing. The “growing tip” is in the centre, where the new leaves are emerging; cut that and you won’t get any more plant. You can plant greens seeds all spring and again in the fall. These are cool-weather crops; the maximum temperature for lettuce to be happy is 24 Celsius, so I won’t even try in July

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and August here in Southern Ontario.

In areas where you don’t get such hot summers you can try, though.

There will be tomatoes, which can be picked ripe if they get that far without splitting or being nibbled by bugs, birds or squirrels. I’ll pick most when they’re half pink (for red varieties) and ripen them in the house, though. Turns out they ripen with full flavour and nutrition once they reach this point, known as the breaker stage. Picked tomatoes are best kept in a non-sunny spot at room temperature. Keeping them on the windowsill can lead to sun scald.

And cucumbers; they’ll produce for about six weeks, but only if you stay on top of picking the ones that are ready. I can start the season with ‘Green Light’ cucumbers, an AllAmericas Selection winner for 2020, which is mature just 42 days from germination. ‘Aladdin’ takes 65 days, so they’ll be ready when ‘Green Light’ starts to wane.

We’re partial to strawberries in Issue 2

salad, so I’ll have to have some in my kitchen garden. Choosing varieties will be a little tricky with strawberries. There are “everbearing”, which are different from “day-neutral”. The traditional strawberry bears fruit in June or July, depending on where you live. Everbearing gives fruit in the early summer and again late in the summer. Day-neutral flowers and fruits all summer long and into fall, but sometimes day-neutral are called everbearing because, well, they are ever bearing fruit. ‘Albion’ and ‘Seascape’ are a couple of good dayneutral varieties.

Neither my husband nor I are crazy about radishes, but by the time we get our house-with-land, perhaps we can have company for dinner again, so maybe I’ll put in a few. They can go from seed to harvest in just three weeks, but you can’t grow them in the heat of summer. Which is why I’ll interplant carrots along with the radishes. Carrots take time to germinate, so it makes sense to plant them localgardener.net

with an early-harvest vegetable. This is an idea I see all the time in vegetable articles.

I’ll plant a handful of seed potatoes in the kitchen garden for some newpotato goodness. It doesn’t matter what kind I plant because they’re all yummy when harvested early. Potatoes to store I can grow further from the house.

I’ll plant peas because they fix nitrogen in the soil and because they’re delicious in the shell or out, depending on the variety. Also, because you can eat the tendrils and shoots like salad greens. You can pinch off the tops of the plants early (and eat them) in their growth to make them bushier; this will slow down the development of the peas, but it will make more grow.

Plus, I can plant twice as many peas as I intend to grow then cull half of them (more pea greens to eat!) when they’re young, thinning them out to give them space. This is another plant limited to early summer, but I may try to grow more in the fall.

Herbs are on my plant list for the kitchen garden. Mint in a pot will fill any shady spots. I’m not crazy enough to plant it directly in the garden after hearing from so many people saying it’s invasive. I’ve planted it in the city before, but my garden has been reworked so frequently mint has never gotten too out of hand here. I’ll have spearmint, of course, but I’ll finally

localgardener.net

try some of the others, like chocolate mint—which smells like chocolate!— and variegated pineapple mint. I don’t use much mint in cooking, but it is wonderful to rub and smell.

Basil will figure large. The compact basil I’ve been growing here (‘Spicy Globe’ or ‘Fino Verde’) has been fine, but I want the standard, old-fashioned sweet basil or even lettuce leaf basil. This is a herb I do use quite a bit. Whole leaves with fresh tomatoes and bocconcini cheese, or cut chiffonade-style and scattered into pasta with lemon, olive oil and parmesan.

Just thinking about it makes me long for summer. It will need to have any

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flower buds pinched out to keep its flavour, but that won’t be a problem.

Also, unlike with the salad greens, you use the new leaves rather than the older ones on the outside of the plant.

Chives is another herb that will grow in my kitchen garden. They are so easy to grow; you just put them in and you’re done. They come back each spring, whether they’ve been trampled or used. They benefit from dividing every few years into clumps with about ten bulbs each. I’ll replant some of these clumps near tomatoes and carrots to repel aphids and Japanese beetles. And maybe I’ll give some to my new neighbours! Y

2021 • 71

This landscape leaves plenty of room for greenery among the stones.

Multiple levels leads to a walkout basement.

Landscaping 2020 with Covid-19

By Keith Lemkey

T

o say that 2020 has been a different year, would have to be an understatement. At the outset of the Covid-19 pandemic, the future of anything green looked pretty dismal, with little promise for the 2020 season, with greenhouses and nurseries taking the brunt of it. But within a few short months, a resolve had been brought forward that demonstrated we (anything green) were an “essential service”. This was great news for everyone in the green industry . . . or was it?

It soon became obvious, no one was going anywhere for holidays in the near future, so many homeowners decided to invest into some form of home renovation. Soon back yard renovations topped the to-do lists of many homeowners. Whether that improvement was renovating a dilapidated old deck or rebuilding a falling down fence, adding a new patio, investing into a new lifestyle like adding a pool, maybe a new outdoor kitchen, barbeque area, cabanas

Bocce ball, anyone?

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A putting green and fire pit fit nicely into this back yard.

became a big item, artificial putting greens, bocce ball courts, water features, fire pit areas, lighting, sound systems, the list was quite endless.

Many moved to adding edibles to their landscapes. Whether it was with fruits and berries or vegetables, raised square-foot boxes were popping up in every sunny spot available, with the hope and interest of this year’s harvest. A great teaching opportunity to introduce children to the experience and rewards of “grow your own”.

The result of all these new gardeners was that demand soon exceeded supply. Anything edible was pretty much consumed by the end of June.

If you thought finding toilet paper was difficult, try finding a plum or apple tree, and if you were looking for a specific variety, good luck.

Demands for almost anything outside became the new shortage: plants, decking and fencing materials, paving stone, irrigation parts, barbeques, bicycles, anything for the outside was added to the almost endless list of items that become difficult, if not almost impossible to find when you wanted it. The impact of all these shortages hit both the DIY homeowners and contractors alike, there was no discrimination of who couldn’t get what they wanted, when they wanted it. For contractors, some manufacturers were projecting 8- to 10-week lead times; imagine how hard it is to estimate the materials you’ll need 8 to 10 weeks from now, when you can’t tell what the weather localgardener.net

will bring tomorrow with any certainty.

As a result, many contractors fell further and further behind as the season progressed, leaving a lot of work to be carried to 2021. My prediction for 2021, if you’re planning on making any kind of changes to your home or yard in 2021, I’d encourage you to start booking sooner than later.

Some contractors are already booking into June . . . June 2022. A good prob-

lem to have for contractors, but still a problem.

Stay well, stay healthy, wash your hands frequently, wear a mask, and practice social distancing when asked to. Wishing everyone a safe and healthy 2021. Y Keith Lemkey is owner of Lemkey Landscape Design, award winning landscape designer and contractor. Chosen one of the top four landscape designers in Canada

Swimming pool backed by a border of grasses and shrubs.

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2021 • 73

Seed catalogues— ready, set, dream!

All the seed catalogues in Canada that we could find.

A’Bunadh Seeds abunadhseeds.com This little seed grower from Cherhill, Alberta, produces over 150 types of tomato seeds on her farm, as well as all the other vegetables, and a few. She specializes in Zone 2b growing.

AgroHaitai Ltd. agrohaitai.com Lynden, Ontario company specializing in Asian vegetable seeds. They sell edible loofa, hairy gourd, stem mustard and others.

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Annapolis Seeds annapolisseeds.com Started by a high-school student, this Nova Scotia company now offers over 500 vegetables, herbs, flowers and grains, many of them uncommon.

Atlantic Pepper Seeds pepperseeds.ca If you grow peppers this is a seed house you need to look at. Family owned and operated out of New Brunswick since 2001, they started with chilis and have grown from there to over 800 varieties per year.

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BC’s Wild Heritage Plants bcwildheritage.com All plants are native to BC; no cultivars and few traditional vegetables.

Good place to look if you want a native plant, but it must be native to BC. Plant list includes edibles like wild strawberry and huckleberry.

Berton Seeds Company Ltd bertonseeds.ca An Italian seed company in Canada.

Over 150 varieties of vegetables, flowers and herbs, all imported from Italy.

They do bird products, too. localgardener.net

Bird and Bee birdandbee.ca Mostly vegetable seeds collected from their farm near Ottawa.

Brother Nature brothernature.ca Brothernature Organic Seeds carries a healthy & highly diverse selection of sought after, unique and standard varieties of Certified Organic Annual, Perennial, Herb & Vegetable Seeds. Germination Tested. Free Shipping on orders over $30.00.

Casey’s Heirloom Tomatoes caseysheirloomtomatoes.ca Casey started growing a few tomatoes when he was teaching in Japan several years ago. His hobby became a bit of an obsession, and now he grows tomatoes (and a few peppers) in his back yard in Airdrie; he saves seeds and sells them online. That’s it.

Cochrane Family Seeds www.cochranefamilyfarm.com Operated by the Cochrane Family Farm in Upper Stewiacke, Nova Scotia. They have a selection of vegetables, herbs and a few flowers.

Eagleridge Seeds eagleridgeseeds.com They sell rare and endangered heirloom seeds. If you’ve never heard of earth chestnuts, well, you can get them here.

this is a small operation offering many unusual varieties. Very responsive to customer needs.

Ferncliff Gardens www.ferncliffgardens.com DAHLIAS ! DAHLIAS! Celebrating their 101st year providing Canadian gardeners with premium Dahlias! Located in Mission BC, Ferncliff Garden’s catalogue is a wonder to behold. If you are a serious collector of dahlias, this is the place to go. If you are new to dahlias, consider one of their special collections; you’ll be hooked!

Florabunda Seeds florabundaseeds.com Since 1999 Florabunda Seeds has specialized in Non GMO, Non Hybrid, Untreated, Interesting & Unusual, Heirloom Flower, Vegetables & Herb seeds. Free catalogue upon request.

Full Circle Seeds fullcircleseeds.com All organic, all grown at ALM Farm in Sooke, BC, which is on the southern tip of Vancouver Island.

Greta’s Organic Gardens seeds-organic.com Interesting looking and tasty heirloom vegetables, all organic, located in Ottawa. They sell some flower seeds, too.

Early’s Farm and Garden Centre earlysgarden.com Early’s has been serving Saskatchewan growers with quality products and expert advice for over 110 years. Early’s has one of the largest garden seed selections available all year long! Perfect for spring prep, or winter indoor gardening too!

While placing your seed order on their website, you can check out their other gardening supplies, as well as lawn, yard care, pet and livestock items as well!

Halifax Seed Company halifaxseed.ca Canada’s oldest family owned and operated seed company established in 1866. Halifax Seed offers quality seeds and gardening supplies. Vegetable, flower and herb seed, all GMO-free and untreated along with organic options too. Operating 2 retail garden centres in Halifax, Nova Scotia & Saint John, New Brunswick. Catalogue available via mail or check out their website and easily order online - ships Canada wide.

Eternal Seed eternalseed.ca Growing organically for 15 years,

Harmonic Herbs harmonicherbs.com Located in Central Alberta, this

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company specializes in fast-growing seeds on a smaller scale. They offer mail order and sell their seeds (Norseeds) in a handful of stores in Calgary, Edmonton and Grand Prairie.

Hawthorn Farm Organic Seeds hawthornfarm.ca Growers of organic heirloom and organic farm selected seeds. Openpollinated, Non-GMO seeds for the home and market gardener across Canada. Certified organic

by Pro-Cert.

Heritage Harvest Seed heritageharvestseed.com This Fisher Branch, Manitoba company has some of the most unique vegetables imaginable. If you’ve never seen reisetomate tomatoes, look it up.

Heritage Seeds heritageseedandproduce.com A modest selection of true heritage varieties located in Kingston, Ontario.

Hope Seeds and Perennials hopeseed.com Annapolis Royal, Nova Scotia seedproducer. About 75 percent of their seeds come from their own production and their grower network.

Howard Dill Enterprises howarddill.com The home of Dill’s Atlantic Giant pumpkins. If you want pumpkins, squash or gourds, definitely take a look.

Incredible Seed Company incredibleseeds.ca A young family on the South Shore of Nova Scotia. In addition to the usual flowers, herbs and veggies, they offer tree and shrub seeds.

Kitchen Table Seed House kitchentableseedhouse.ca Certified organic vegetable, flower and herb seed specializing in regionally adapted, flavourful heirlooms and new varieties with exceptional culinary possibilities.

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La ferme cooperative Tourne-Sol fermetournesol.qc.ca Certified organic seed company in Les Cedres, Quebec. They grow 70% of their seeds and another 10% are grown by local farmers. Have you ever seen black popcorn? They have it.

Metchosin Farm Seeds metchosinfarm.ca Organic seeds from the southern tip of Vancouver Island. This company will send you potato seed, which is different from seed potatoes, so you can grow brand new varieties of spuds!

La Finquita lafinquita.ca Looking for seeds for pigweed or chickweed or dandelion? They are available here. Cold-hardy greens, medicinals, wild edibles and a few more common varieties.

Mount Royal Seeds mountroyalseeds.com Mostly trees and shrubs, most of them native. They sell to bonsai enthusiasts, too.

Lindenberg Seeds lindenbergseeds.ca This is one company who still do things the old fashioned way. You can order their print catalogue of new and unusual varieties along with old favorites on their website.

This Manitoba company started in 1935 with the philosophy that supplying quality seed at a fair price was the best value. They purchase their seeds from reliable growers and test and retest them to keep quality high.

Manhattan Farms manhattanfarms.ca Billing itself as “seeds for city farmers”, this Vernon, BC company is a good starting point for new gardeners or gifts for wannabe gardeners. And the packets are beautiful watercolour illustrations.

Mapple Farm mapplefarm.com “A modest source of seed and plant stock, grown well off the beaten track.” This Weldon, New Brunswick company sells mostly tomatoes and squash with a few other things thrown in. And they sell sweet potato slips!

Matchbox Garden Seed Company matchboxgarden.ca Started in Toronto, now operating from a farm in Caledonia, Ontario, Matchbox is run by a trained chef.

Owner Hanna Jacops produces and sells a wide variety of certified organic, vegetable, herb and flower seeds.

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Naramata Seed Company naramataseedco.ca Okanagan Valley seed company. Good selection of veggies and a few flowers.

Norton Naturals nortonnaturals.com Small selection of native perennial vegetables. Jerusalem artichokes and ramps as well as hog peanuts and camassia quamash. Good place to visit if you’re starting a food forest.

OSC oscseeds.com Ontario Seed Company is over 125 years old. They sell seed for everything from your home vegetable garden to major construction projects.

Perfectly Perennial perfectlyperennial.ca Perfectly Perennial, located in Pouch Cove NL, is a social enterprise company that grows and distributes locally adapted seeds for vegetables, herbs and flowers, as well as offering garden workshops and design services; Perfectly Perennial is supporting several initiatives to help expand local food security.

Prairie Garden Seeds www.prairiegardenseeds.ca Most of the seeds they offer are grown at the family farm near Cochin, Saskatchewan. They have a brand new website you can order from, though it is still possible to print the form and order by mail with a cheque.

They offer a wide variety of cultivars from many different vegetable, grain and seed crops, and flowers. They have one of the largest cereal grains and broad beans of any seed catalogue.

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Rainbow Seeds rainbowseeds.ca Family owned and operated farm near Fundy Park in New Brunswick.

They offer a selection of vegetable and flower seeds.

Ravensong ravensongseeds.com Artisan seed company in the Comox Valley on Vancouver Island, BC. They’re conscientious about growing and selecting seeds for sale. Wide variety of herbs, including uncommon plants like salal and poke root.

Renee’s Garden reneesgarden.com The company with the really pretty, artist-rendered seed packets. Easy to order, but do so in advance because it takes a couple of weeks to get to us in Canada.

Richters Herbs richters.com If there’s a kind of herb you’re looking for and Richters doesn’t have it, you must have dreamed it. Located in Goodwood, Ontario, north of Toronto.

Sage Gardens sagegarden.ca A strong selection of vegetable varieties from this Manitoba company, as well as flowers and herbs.

Salt Spring Seeds saltspringseeds.com One of the oldest Salt Spring Island seed growers, this company has been around for over 30 years. The focus is on sustainability and becoming selfreliant.

Seeds for Food seedsforfood.net Homestead-based enterprise in the Eastern Townships of Quebec. They offer a selection of seeds all from their own gardens.

Seeds of Imbolc seedsofimbolc.ca This Fergus, Ontario company grows all seeds organically on the premises and offers 31 varieties of heirloom tomatoes as well as many heirloom vegetables and flowers.

localgardener.net

Silver Creek Nursery silvercreeknursery.ca This company sells trees, not seeds, but they do ship across Canada (except BC and NL, owing to CFIA regulations) from their Wellesley, Ontario nursery. They sell fruit trees and berry bushes.

Soggy Creek Seed Co. seeds.soggycreek.com This is a homestay and vegan sanctuary for goats, ducks and turkeys in Nipissing Valley, Ontario. They offer a few varieties of seeds in funky packets.

Solana Seeds solanaseeds.netfirms.com More than 200 varieties of tomatoes are available from this Quebec company. Check out their “other” section for a variety of edibles you may never have heard of.

Stems Flower Farms edgebrookfarm.ca “Located just outside Cookstown, Ontario (formerly as Edgebrook Farm) this company has more than doubled its vegetable seed offering over last year and continues to offer a huge number of flower seeds, in support of its cut flower business. They have 22 varieties of calendula!”

Stokes Seeds stokeseeds.com/ca Proudly Canadian since 1981, Stokes Seeds is a leading supplier of the highest quality of seeds with delivery across the country. Offering one of the largest selections of vegetable, perennial, annual and herb seeds, all quality tested to thrive in Canadian gardens. Visit their website to order online or request a catalogue or to find all your seed growing and gardening accessories! Showcasing many new variety introductions and special collections, you won’t want to miss checking out stokeseeds.com.

Sunshine Farm sunshinefarm.net Sunshine Farm is both a seed company and a centre for vocational development for adults in the Community Living Sector. localgardener.net

The farm provides a mixed setting for hands-on experience with a multitude of activities. They focus on respecting the rights of the individual and building self respect.

Their seeds are certified organic in BC, PACS 16-504.

T&T Seeds ttseeds.com T&T of Headingley, Manitoba, has been open since 1946 and is a good, reliable place to order seeds and plants from. They operate a full garden centre, so you can get planting supplies and household things like cherry pitters and hand soaps.

Tatiana’s Tomatobase tatianastomatobase.com “One of the largest privately owned and privately funded seed banks in North America.” They have over 4000 varieties of seed, mostly tomatoes. Located in Columbia Valley, BC. Terra Edibles terraedibles.ca Tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes!

Separated by colour on the website.

‘Banana Legs’, ‘Osu Blue’ and ‘Emerald Green’, to name but a few; photos and descriptions help in your online shopping experience.

Located in Foxboro, ON, Terra Edibles has been serving customers since 1993. They also offer many choices of other vegetables (especially beans), and herbs and flowers.

Veseys Seeds veseys.com For 80 years this company has operated out of a farm on PEI. They have a wide selection of a wide variety of seeds plus bulbs, starter plants and gardening products. Plus they have a guarantee that says, if you aren’t satisfied, they’ll replace the product they sent you.

West Coast Seeds westcoastseeds.com West Coast gets seeds from a variety of farms and ships them out. The company is certified organic, but not all of their farms are; it costs too much for some folks. You can get a wide variety of seeds from these guys.

WH Perron www.dominion-seed-house.com/en/ Formerly Dominion Seeds. WH Perron sells seeds for every kind of plant imaginable.

Wild Rose Heritage Seed wildroseheritageseed.com Lethbridge company offering heirloom varieties of vegetables and herbs.

William Dam Seeds damseeds.com Since the 1950s this company has operated out of Ancaster, Ontario. They were the first registered seed company in Canada to feature a line of certified organically grown seeds in 2000.

Today they offer a few selections of all the vegetable, herbs, flowers, climbers, grasses and a few bulbs besides.

The Seed Company theseedcompany.ca Located in downtown St. John’s, Newfoundland, this company started in 1925. Now operated by the greatgrandson of the founder, they sell a variety of seed.

Zappa Seeds zappaseeds.com A Waterloo and Brampton, Ontario, family-owned company offering a wide variety of vegetable seeds for all types of cuisines. Looking for bitter cucumber?

This is the place.

Urban Harvest uharvest.ca/shop Toronto company providing organic and heirloom seeds chosen for urban gardeners.

•••

Urban Tomato urbantomato.ca Tomato and other seeds offered by a Peterborough urban farmer.

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We believe this list is up to date as we go to press. We aim to include every English-speaking seed order business in Canada that delivers across the country. If we have missed any, or if any are no longer in business, please let us know.

Email shauna@pegasuspublications. net. Y 2021 • 77

How to get started

A

re you starting your very first garden? Congratulations!

There are several little details to take you from the idea to your first year of blooms or food. Here is a primer that will get you through with most plants. This guide will be printed at the back of every issue of Canada’s Local Gardener.

May you have a long future as a gardener, during which you add techniques from others and elements you discover that work for you.

Happy gardening!

How to start a garden 1. Make it smaller than you think you’ll need.

2. Mow the area, then lay down 7 to 10 sheets of newspaper over the grass or weeds.

3. Water the newspaper.

4. Pile on four to six inches of triple mix soil 5. If you want, pile on four inches of cedar mulch.

6. Plant bedding plants.

Containers 1. Outdoor containers should be larger; smaller ones will dry out too quickly.

2. Hanging containers will dry out faster than those on the ground.

3. Drainage is important. If there are no holes in the container and you can’t put holes in it, put plants in a 78 • 2021

plastic liner pot and into the container.

4. Use potting soil for containers, not triple mix.

5. Feed container plants something like liquid kelp or Miracle Gro. They’re different from in-ground plants.

Bedding plants 1. Water bedding plants the day before you plant them.

2. Dig a hole a little bigger than the pot the plant is in.

3. Remove the bedding plant from the pot. Squish the pot to get it out.

4. Gently spread out the root ball on the plant, put it into the hole and backfill around the root ball with soil.

5. Fibre pots: remove the plant and compost the pot.

6. Cell packs: if a plant comes in four or six attached plastic containers, they are four or six small plants, not one big one.

7. When you are done planting in a bed, water it well.

Fall bulbs 1. Fall bulbs bloom in spring. They include tulips, crocuses and daffodils.

You can plant them until the ground is frozen.

2. Plant bulbs in a hole that is three times the depth of the bulb. If a bulb is one inch high, plant it three inches deep. If it’s three inches high, plant it nine inches deep.

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3. You can plant each bulb in one hole or plant more bulbs in a wider hole. Leave one to two bulb-widths between them.

4. If you have chipmunks or other animals that will disturb bulbs, put chicken wire over the bulbs before filling in the hole with soil.

Direct-sowing seeds 1. Prepare an existing bed by removing weeds and mixing in compost or topping with triple mix.

2. Either follow the directions on the seed packets, ask the person you got the seeds from, or follow the suggestions below.

3. Some seeds need light to germinate: ageratum, balloon flower, browallia, columbine, gaillardia, geranium, impatiens, lettuce, lobelia, nicotiana, osteospermum, petunias, poppies, savory, snapdragons.

4. Other seeds should be covered lightly with soil: alyssum, aster, balsam, beans, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celosia, corn, cosmos, cucumbers, dianthus, eggplant, marigold, melons, morning glory, nasturtium, peas, pepper, radish, spinach, squash, tomato, zinnia.

5. Plant seeds about as far apart as you imagine the grown plant will need. Or plant them less far apart then thin them when they are too close together. Thin seedlings by snipping them off so you don’t disturb the roots of neighbouring plants.

6. Water new seeds with the mister on your hose nozzle so they don’t wash localgardener.net

away, but water them thoroughly.

7. Keep seedlings in a damp bed until they are one to two inches high.

Weeding 1. Weed the day after it rains or the day after you water. It is easier to pull weeds from damp soil than from dry soil.

2. Hoe tiny weedlings in the spring.

3. If you don’t know what it is, wait until you do know before pulling it.

4. If you can’t pull a weed out, cut it off at ground level. Do this as often as needed, which could be daily. Eventually it should die from lack of sunlight.

5. Mulching can control weeds and make weeding easier.

Watering 1. Always water new plants gently but well.

2. Water more deeply and less often.

3. Water the soil, not the plant, but don’t worry about plants getting wet.

4. Watering in the morning is best, but time of day doesn’t matter that much.

5. Outdoor pots need water frequently, possibly every day.

Pests 1. Don’t treat for pests unless they are truly decimating your garden.

2. Many insects are beneficial to the garden. Several non-beneficial insects will attract beneficial insects to your garden.

3. Funguses and insect-eating plants will usually go away if treated with neem oil.

4. Aphids can be kept under control by spraying them off with water. It won’t kill them, but it will slow them down.

Sun 1. Six or more hours per day of localgardener.net

Scan me Explore Canada’s plant hardiness site. http://www.planthardiness.gc.ca/

direct sun qualifies as full sun.

2. Three to six hours qualifies as part sun.

3. Less than three hours qualifies as shade.

4. Dappled shade can be any of these, depending on how dappled the shade is and for how much of the day.

5. Full sun is necessary for most vegetables. Part sun is acceptable for leafy vegetables.

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6. Pay attention to the tags on plants at the nursery. You can experiment with plants outside the recommended sun requirements, but be prepared for whatever the result is.

Zones 1. Hardiness Zone is a number given to your geographical area to indicate whether a plant will survive the winter. You can find the hardiness Zone for your area online at planthardiness.gc.ca. Or you can ask at your local garden centre what Zone you are in.

2. Zones don’t matter for annuals.

For perennials, they will give you an idea of what survives. For trees and shrubs, they are pretty accurate.

3. Canadian hardiness Zones and USDA hardiness Zones are different. A rule of thumb is to subtract one from the USDA Zone to get the Canadian Zone.

4. There are microclimates in every yard. Proximity to the house or a fence or position on a hill will change the climate.

5. Your local garden centre will not sell you plants that won’t thrive in your area. Or, if they do, they will issue a warning.

Fall clean-up 1. Rake leaves off lawns and into flower beds.

2. Remove very diseased plants.

Throw them out.

3. Everything else can be left for birds, insects and other animals.

Much of it will compost in the garden over the winter. Y

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OASIS

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