Beyond Paris

With Paris less than five hours by train from any French destination you can think of, there is an endless number of small towns to discover. Immerse yourself in culture and history, see the chateaux that you learned about in your history class or the homes of the artists you learned about in art history. Visit the vineyard where your favorite French wine is created or the beaches where the soldiers arrived to on D-Day. The entire country has a story to tell; here are three of our favorite places to visit.

SAINT-ÉMILION

Surrounded by vineyards as far as the eye can see is the little medieval town of Saint-Émilion. Located just 35 minutes from Bordeaux by train, Saint-Émilion is a must visit. Upon arrival, the smell of wine penetrates the air. From the station, the town is a 20-minute walk—a steep one so bring comfortable shoes—through beautiful vineyards and past gorgeous chateaux, many of which you can stay in. The view from the Tour du Roy is worth the 118 steps up its narrow, dark staircase.

On every small street there is at least one wine shop that ships internationally and, of course, you can taste however many you like free of charge. These small wine stores or the vineyards themselves are the best places to do your wine shopping. Avoid tourist traps like the Maison du Vin where you will have to pay 15 euros for a wine tasting and will be persuaded to buy a bottle with it. There are many restaurants to accompany all the wine: one of the best options is Chai Pascal. The interior is cozy and the owner is a winemaker herself. The menu is full of classic French dishes and there is a different special each night.

AUCH

Auch, a tiny, quiet town along the charming Gers River, is just an hour and a half from Toulouse. The region used to be called Gascony before the French Revolution and Auch was its historical capital. The Tour d’Armagnac is an ancient prison that has a great view of the Gascon villages surrounding Auch, but it is only open to the public during the summer unless you make a special reservation. The main site of interest in this town is the Cathédrale Sainte-Marie, located on a large square in the middle of the city. A UNESCO World Heritage site, there are gorgeous stained-glass windows and a giant organ. For 2.5 euros, you can enter the central room with its stalls for all the saints and angels carved in wood. It is said that the people from here are able to live the longest.

The region is known for foie gras, so it is offered everywhere. The place to eat in Auch is the highly rated Hôtel de France. There are three set menu options as well as the option to order some items à la carte. The magret de canard was delicious, and if you like foie gras, definitely get the foie gras de canard.

TROYES

Visiting Troyes is like stepping back into the Middle Ages. Located in the Grand-Est region, the Seine actually runs through Troyes, but this town looks nothing like Paris. The houses are mostly timber framed and some look like they could lean over and fall at any moment. The vertical and diagonal wooden stripes with each house differing in color makes the city so charming, resembling a small gingerbread village. These houses were all built after a fire destroyed the city in 1524, leaving 7,500 people homeless. The rich were able to build back with stone and the poor had to continue to build in the timber frames fashion.

The biggest cathedral in the city is called Cathédrale Sainte Pierre et Sainte Paul de Troyes, more commonly referred to as the Cathédrale de Troyes. Although this is mainly a town to walk around and enjoy the ancient architecture, Troyes does have a few museums. Right next door to the Troyes Cathedral is the Musée Saint-Loup, filled with paintings, sculptures and antiquities from Greece and Egypt.

History is not all the town has to offer as Troyes is also the French capital for discount shopping and malls. There are multiple malls around Troyes boasting designer brands up to 70 percent off.

The square has more of the touristy restaurants, but if you walk 10 minutes from the pedestrian area there is an adorable restaurant hidden on a small street called La Mignardise. Although a little pricey, it has delicious seafood and meat options, a big cheese selection as well as some sweets. The restaurant recommends the andouilette because it is a specialty to Troyes, although it is not for the faint of heart, as it is made of pig intestines.

Written and Photographed by Eugene Stall