QUICK TRIPS

STEVE RAWLS

EVA SIMPSON

From above: Fredericksburg’s wildflower season brings vibrant blooms including bluebonnets; savor charcuterie at La Bergerie; sample local wines at Narrow Path Winery.

JASON RISNER

QUICK TRIPS WILDFLOWERS and Wine

In FREDERICKSBURG, TEXAS, the hills are alive with vibrant flora and fantastic food and drink

By Angela Caraway-Carlton

In his song “People Up in Texas,” the late country music icon Waylon Jennings croons: “You don’t need no one to tell you when you cross that Texas line. The air starts smellin’ sweeter, and the water tastes like wine.”

Jennings could very well have been describing Fredericksburg, tucked in the Texas Hill Country about an hour’s drive northwest of San Antonio. In the spring, roadsides come alive with wildflowers, resulting in colorful waves that beckon locals and visitors alike to pull over and frolic through brilliant bluebonnets and fiery Indian paintbrushes.

These blossoms imbue the air with a distinct sweetness, but that’s not where the song’s similarities end. Dripping with Texas hospitality but entrenched in German heritage, the small town of Fredericksburg is full of big surprises. The area is dotted with wineries, restaurants, adorable inns, and a historic Main Street where chains are not allowed and antique stores thrive. Perfect for romantic getaways or vacays with friends, this under-theradar locale has it all. (visitfredericksburgtx.com)

WILD ABOUT WILDFLOWERS

For Texans, wildflower season is a rite of passage; locals will tell you it’s tradition to dress in your Sunday best and pose in front of the coveted bluebonnets. Depending on the weather, the flowers usually reach their peak by late March and make a swift exit in May. To peep the ultimate floral kaleidoscope, head to Wildseed Farms (wildseedfarms.com) to wander through 200 acres bursting with bluebonnets, bright red poppies, and more. The farm blooms with various flowers from March through October and also has butterfly gardens, a café, and a store where you can buy seedlings. If you miss the wildflowers, peaches are the top draw from mid-May until August, when stands peddle bushels and orchards offer pick-your-own opportunities.

IT’S ALWAYS WINE O’CLOCK

Wine flows like water in Fredericksburg, with around 50 wineries and tasting rooms sprinkled along Highway 290. While the region isn’t as wellestablished as Napa or Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Fredericksburg winemakers are cutting their teeth on grapes that thrive in the dry, hot climate, such as Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Viognier, and Mourvèdre—and the possibilities are constantly evolving.

“Every time we try to pin one down, we find three or four more [grapes] that do well here,” says Tyler Turbeville of family-owned Narrow Path Winery (narrowpathwinery.com). A seam of solid limestone runs through the middle of Narrow Path’s vineyard, so the vines struggle to break through, a stress Turbeville believes leads to something beautiful. “What happens, I think, is that you

end up getting stronger flavors from the fruit as they make more effort,” he says of their reds with cherry notes and tinges of white pepper.

One of the area’s first wineries, Becker Vineyards (beckervineyards.com), uses 100-percent Texas grapes. Stop by to sip an award-winning Viognier, romp through a lavender field, and watch a spectacular sunset. For a taste of the Pacific Northwest, head to Signor Vineyard (signorvineyards.com), which sources grapes from Oregon to craft velvety Pinot Noirs. Had enough wine? Beer lovers flock to Altstadt Brewery (altstadtbeer.com), known for its traditional German brewing practices.

FOOD COMA

Fredericksburg lends a German accent to Texan food with a number of authentic restaurants, like Der Lindenbaum (derlindenbaum. com), offering specialties such as schnitzel. Otto’s German Bistro (ottosfbg.com), owned by Evelyn and John Washburne, presents a creative spin on German fare as seen in plates like duck schnitzel with a blueberry demi-glace. A few doors down, the couple operates La Bergerie Wine Bar & Shop (labergeriemarket.com), where they layer charcuterie boards with housecured meats and Pinot Noir–soaked cheeses.

Should a carb craving hit, look for the line weaving around Emma + Ollie (emmaolliefbg. com). Go for breakfast to savor goodies including giant cinnamon rolls, bacon cheddar scones, and beignets dashed in powdered sugar.

Nestled in a cottage off Main Street, Fredericksburg Pie Company (fbgpie.com) makes all its pies from scratch daily. With mile-high banana cream or coconut meringue, pecan pies flavored with chocolate or bourbon, and several choices starring Fredericksburg’s famous peaches, it’s hard to go wrong.

Lastly, don’t miss Chocolat, where owner Lecia Duke has mastered a 200-year-old European process of creating delicate sugar casts and spiking the thin chocolate shells with fine spirits and vino from local wineries. A box of these is a great souvenir; once you bite into the chocolate and the alcohol explodes into your mouth, you’ll wish you’d bought more.

FAIRY-TALE DIGS

Fredericksburg boasts a variety of accommodations. To be close to the action on Main Street, stay at The Lodge Above Town Creek (thelodgeabovetowncreek.com). Of the 16 roomy suites, a handful covers two stories, with a bedroom upstairs and a living room and bathroom downstairs. A breakfast basket is delivered to your door each morning, and evenings are reserved for sitting by the fire or pool with a glass of Fredericksburg wine.

Another quaint option is the Fredericksburg Herb Farm (fredericksburgherbfarm.com), where sprawling grounds evoke storybook scenes. The 14 charming Sunday Haus Cottages mimic the design of Fredericksburg’s historic “Sunday Houses,” one-room buildings German settlers used on the weekends when they came into town for church services or social gatherings. In between sightseeing, retreat to your porch to relax in a rocking chair or treat yourself to some pampering at the on-site Nature’s Spa. In season, romp through the farm’s small field of bluebonnets—just don’t forget your cowboy boots. «

Clockwise from left: Fredericksburg Herb Farm and Nature’s Spa; cinnamon rolls at Emma + Ollie; divine creations at Chocolat; Peanut Butter Cup pie at Fredericksburg Pie Company.

EVA SIMPSON

EVA SIMPSON