ANCIENT KINGDOM

The Lost City Of Angkor Is A Riveting Journey Through Time

BY PAUL RUBIO

If you’ve explored the ruins of Pompeii, Petra, the Acropolis, Giza, Tikal, or Machu Picchu and feel like you’ve seen the best archaeology has to offer, think again. Like a fictional “Choose Your Own Adventure” book, Cambodia’s ancient city of Angkor plays out one thrilling chapter after another as you navigate across 154 square miles of skyscraping jungle in search of hundreds of Hindu and Buddhist monuments. Unlike Angkor’s veneered peers, a web of dense undergrowth still envelops and buries much of the city, leading to got-to-see-it-tobelieve-it stone-hewn temples constructed between the ninth and fifteenth centuries, now capped by mammoth tree roots and plant-clad walls waiting to be unearthed.

With the Khmer Rouge a distant memory, the complete de- mining around Angkor and the proximate town of Siem Reap, and a grand return to travel, the world’s largest pre-industrial city is currently having a moment as a top bucket-list destination. Angkor Wat, the iconic spired temple complex that stands as the foremost example of Khmer architecture, is the initial anchor for any visit. The edifices—strewn with religious allegories and visual narratives—wow and enchant, revealing their most photogenic sides during sunrise and sunset hours (from the east and west entrances, respectively) and anytime from above (helicopters and hot-air balloons offer spectacular bird’s-eye views). But this sacred expanse is just the beginning of greater exploration through culture, religion, architecture, and history over hundreds of years. All that’s required is a strong sense of adventure, a tuk-tuk (an electric, threewheeled carriage), and a daring driver.

One potential starting point is visiting the Khmer Empire, first with Angkor Wat and then scaling the rocky remains of the Buddhist monument Bayon, marveling at the deities carved into its 54 pillars. Examine the inscribed inner and outer walls depicting daily life and the colorful history of the kingdom.

Next, strike a pose for the ultimate Cambodia Insta-shot, shadowed by the overgrown tree roots strangling the ruins of Ta Prohm temple. Immortalized in the 2001 hit film Lara Croft: Tomb Raider , stunning Ta Prohm evokes the inner archaeologist in all of us. But for some alone time within

Angkor, ask your tuk-tuk driver to show you the less frequented sites too. One such highlight is the tenthcentury Banteay Srei temple (also known as “Citadel of the Women”), constructed principally of red sandstone and dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva.

With a strong emphasis on active pursuits, a luxe hotel is an idyllic base for recharging in style and resting your feet (even massaging them). Enter Anantara Angkor Resort Siem Reap (anantara.com) , which provides just the right amount of frills for unapologetic relaxation between adrenaline-inducing excitement. Fashioned after a grand Khmer villa, the 39-key boutique hotel centers on a serene courtyard and a saltwater pool. Most treatments at the signature Anantara spa are rooted in local customs and the healing power of the lotus. One not to miss is the traditional Khmer massage (think: a smoother iteration of an oil-free Thai stretching massage) followed by a lotus-filled bath.

The property also promises more in-depth discoveries of Cambodia, including bicycle tours through the countryside and cooking classes with a resident chef,

Coastal Kiss

It’s not just inland, ruin-dotted Cambodia that entices. The world’s most heavenly accommodation—the overwater bungalow—maintains a secret address off coastal Cambodia, and only the lucky few have experienced it.

In the Koh Rong archipelago, a duo of islands some 15 miles south of the mainland known as Song Saa private island resort (songsaa-privateisland.com) mingles Bora Bora design, Cambodian sensibility, and a holistic conservation mantra. The resort’s 24 thatched-roof villas—nestled overwater, on the beach, or in the jungle—are exquisite expressions of upcycled eco-chic, inclusive of artwork recreated from discarded oil drums and fishing boat hulls, tables and chairs crafted from driftwood and tree trunks, and double-story, hand-carved wooden doors. More overt pops of glamour also exist: mini bars fashioned after Louis Vuitton trunks, glass-bottom floors (in floating units), and seductive outdoor shower areas among them. Perfect the art of doing nothing, feet in the sand or cozy in your private swimming pool, overlooking the cerulean waters and lush terrain. Request a packed lunch—with bubbles—and head out by kayak in search of a deserted cove for a romantic afternoon. Hike the nature trails of Koh Bong island (connected to Song Saa by footbridge), keeping the zoom lens close in the event resident oriental pied hornbills appear. Or, dive one of six surrounding sites to encounter rainbows of tropical fish aplenty (note that peak clarity occurs from April to May and October to November). beginning with a trip to the local market and then preparing classic recipes in the hotel’s cooking studio. Anantara Angkor Resort also happens to be a seven-minute drive from the city’s night market, where the pulse of modern-day Cambodia is palpable. Here, you’ll gorge on cheap but delicious street eats, make new random friends, bargain for souvenirs, and squirm during a painfully pleasurable fish pedicure (yes, the one where the fish eat your dead skin, leaving your feet shining like mother-of-pearl).

Also consider diving into Song Saa’s development projects, which home in on the humanitarian side of conservation. On Koh Rong proper, experience daily life in the coastal Cambodian village of Prek Svay by visiting a school, touring one of several community efforts supported by the Song Saa Foundation (the waste management project is a popular one), or just hanging with the locals for a day of cross-cultural fun.

A few days into your Cambodia exploration, while revisiting Angkor Wat at sunset, seeking out quieter nooks of the ancient city, or even passing stalls at the night market, you’ll subconsciously start looking for secret passageways, hidden doors, snake-guarded treasure chests, and small clues to understanding the enigmas of Angkor. You’ll expect Indiana Jones or Lara Croft to pop around the corner and lead you into your next chapter. It is then—when reality and make-believe blur—that you’ve experienced the magic of Angkor. «

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