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MAY. 2015 ISSUE 24

g n i n e k a Aw


監製 Supervisor : 張艾嘉 營運長CEO : 林炳存 Joshua Lin 創意總監Creative Director : 尹培袞 Sean Yin 發行人Publisher : 林炳存 Joshua Lin 總編輯Editor in Chief : 林炳存 Joshua Lin 翻譯編輯Translation Editors : 姜怡帆 Annie Chiang 姜怡如 Connie Chiang 英國特駐Overseas Editor : Linda Cooper 採訪編輯Assistant Editor : ASH 視覺主編Design Director : Alex Chang 攝影總監Photography Director : 林炳存 Joshua Lin 攝影編輯Photography Editors : 張騰元、陳冠璋、ASH、Linda Cooper、 Alexander Supertramp 後製編修 : ASH 造型總監Styling Director : 林夢薇 Monfi Lin 編輯策劃Special Project Managers: 趙欣、桑科 顧問團隊Consultants : 陽帆、廖鎮漢、詹仁雄、林知佑、廖曉喬 色彩管理 : 王振昇 行政管理 : 張騰元 執行公關 : 星予公關

ABOOK 意團隊有限公司 104 台北市內湖區港墘路221巷39-1號 Tel : (02)2657-1666 Fax:(02)2657-1555 Email : annie@abook.cc Website : www.abook.cc


二十四節氣裡的每個節氣都充滿著畫面, 而驚蟄的蟄是藏的意思,驚則是指春雷 乍動,驚醒了蟄伏在土中冬眠的動物。 春天到了,春雷初響,大地萬物開始萌芽 生長。那些在嚴寒冬天躲進土壤內或在 石洞裡蟄伏起來的動物被春雷驚醒後, 也開始甦醒、活動,迎接春天的來臨。 音樂家林強的驚蟄、導演王全中電影的 驚蟄,對於你來說你人生的驚蟄是什麼? 是怎樣的故事?

Awakening

A solar term marks any of 24 points in traditional East Asian lunisolar calendars, which are meant to explain seasonal changes and weather fluctuations. In the 3rd term of the lunisolar calendar, there is an awakening of insects from hibernation. Spring is here, and life on earth once again begins to bloom. Those that went deep into the earth during Winter, awakens, and begins to move, to live.


In here, we have sunsh plants, vases, and lam as well as life’s infinit possibilities.


hine, mps, te 在這裡有陽光、有植物、有花器、有燈 有生活的種種可能 _ 甫工作室

我們喜歡以不同的材質做實驗,製造出自己喜歡的生 活器皿像是鐵的粗獷工業感、水泥樸實的安全感、玻 璃的生活感、壓克力的現代感、還有木頭的生命痕跡 感,喜歡各式各樣的材質、並試著將他們組合成生 活上的一部分,或許下次在使用他時也可以慢下來看 看,看看他的質感、看看他的痕跡、看看他的光影線 條、感受他的溫度,感受到福(FU)。

We like experimenting with different materials, to create different things you’d use in daily life. The industrial and ruggedness of metal, the safeness you feel with cement, the familiarity of glass, the modernity of acrylic, and the soulfulness you find in wood… by incorporating these different materials in to one’s surroundings, we hope that maybe one day people can slow down and see it’s story, it’s lines and textures, and feel it’s warmth.


介紹一下你自己

創立工作室會遇到的困難

我是陳錫甫,從事的是CF廣告美術,

理想和實現是有距離的,目前常遇到困

工作中會不斷地收集各種創新的事物,

難像是現在的加工廠很多都移往大陸,

也常常會接觸到各種不同的領域,從木

形成不少的斷層,該如何和加工廠洽談

工、鐵工、及各式各樣的加工廠,這些

製作打樣,然後不斷的修改最後製成成

都是很有趣也很實用的資源,再將這些

品,在其中取得信賴合作,這些都是平

資源結合想法做出理想中的物件,本身

時常遇到的問題,再加上現在原物料價

很喜歡各種材質所呈現出不同的質感,

錢的不便宜,如何在品質上的不妥協和

而質感在時間裡又慢慢堆疊不同的樣

價錢中取捨,很多都是需要不斷學習和

貌!嘗試著將各式的材質依照特性去製

成長的!

作出喜歡的、簡約的家飾。

未來創作與目標 創立甫工作室的動機 對於未來的創作目標是希望能在以後的 一開始是因為平時就喜歡將東西拿起來

創作設計中,繼續突破許多的限制,繼

做觀察,而後拆解、將它組合、再作

續發展無限的可能性,做出讓人會在生

處理,然後有了或許這裏和這裡可以這

活裡使用會去看,可以感受到的生活器

樣,或許這裡簡單一點較好,或許這裡

皿。

該用這樣的材質,這些或許逐步發展出 創立一間工作室去將它付諸執行出來的

有什麼夢想嗎

動機。

夢想在未來的日子裡,能蓋一間理想中 的建築,最好是在某個懸崖邊,簡約的

平常在做些什麼事情

造型,搭配自己製作出喜歡的家飾,完 成一個屬於自己夢想中的空間。

在平常的生活裡,很喜歡逛一些材料或 者五金的店,在這裡常常會有莫名的開 心,然後會激發出無限的想法及創作的 可能性。

-end


Tell us about yourself? I am Chen Xi Fu and I am an Art Director and Production Designer for commercial films. In my work, I try to stay innovative, and draw resources and ideas from various industries, like carpentry, ironwork, and different processing factories. Personally, I really like using different materials and piling them together to create something unique. I take the key characteristics of a material and try turning it into simple furnishings or décor for the home.

Motivation behind starting Fu Home Design?

Did you face any obstacles when starting your own workshop? Dreams and reality are often quite different. Oftentimes I come across problems where processing factories have moved to China, and so the there’s a gap in the entire production chain. Being able to find the right factory to work with to come up with the best product, and developing a mutually trusting relationship, is quite difficult now. Plus, the prices for materials are no longer cheap; not compromising on the quality while keeping the pricing in mind is a constant learning experience.

Future Work And Goals? At first it was because I was interested in taking something and dissecting it, taking it apart and then putting it back together again. Along the process I’d ask myself how I could make it better, should I add things to it, or take things away from it. Fu Home Design spawned from this interest.

What do you do everyday? I like to browse different hardware stores because it makes me extremely happy just to be able to see and be inspired by different materials.

In the future I hope to be able to keep pushing boundaries and create infinite possibilities. I hope to make things that people will use and feel a connection to on a daily basis.

Do you have any dreams? My dream is to be able to build my own house, hopefully near a cliff. Simple architectural designs, combined with home furnishings that I’ve created myself. I hope to create a dream space that is truly my own. -end

FACEBOOK 甫工作室


I THOUGHT WE ARE THE SAME PHOTOGRAPHER & STYLING SHU-WEI HUANG 舒瑋 MAKE UP ARTIST / SNOWKEI LAN 雪姬 MODEL / VINCENT LITTLEHAT

/


動物保護議題在全世界越來越受到重視,然而 許多人們依然為了自我的利益及私心殺害動物 ,奪取牠們的皮毛、牙、角,甚至是棲地。許多 人們認為自己有權掌控其他生物的生死,但若沒 有慾望,人類與其他動物其實是相同的。 藉由拍攝這個專題,想表達對物種歧視(speciesism)的反思;相對於一些組織選擇使用叫血腥 且直接的手法來警惕人類,我選擇叫用冷靜的色 調及情緒來表現。這十張照片其實傳達著一種對 現實世界的無奈,因為雖然已有許多動物保護團 體成立,但是人對於物質欲望是無窮盡的,只要 有需求,便有供需,因此便導致對於動物的迫害 與殺戮永遠不會停止。 希望這組作品能讓大家思考動物保護議題,不要 讓自己無所謂的需求建立在動物的痛苦上。

Animal rights issues are getting more and more attention lately. But still, many people take away their fur, teeth, horns, or even habitats. Lots of people think they have the power to control other animals’ lives. But when you take away human desire, we are actually the same as other animals. Through photographing this project, I wanted to convey the idea of speciesism. Unlike some organisations that like using radical images, I chose to present the project with calm colour tones and mood. These photos are conveying unchangeable truths of the real world. Although there are many organisations which are founded for improving animal rights, the innate human desire to acquire and have “things” is endless. Lots of people still use animal products and thus the killing never ends. I hope this project can bring more attention to animal protection issues. People should stop feeding consumerism and stop fulfilling their own needs at the expense of animals.


ら ら

花 開

PHOTOGRAPHER / JESSIE HO MAKEUP&STYLE / MONFI LIN HAIR / TING MODEL / 賴羽


ゆ っ く り と 魂 を 目 覚 め


緩 緩 甦 醒 的 靈 魂


ゆ っ く り 咲 く 春 の 花 の よ う に


當 春 雷 響 起

萬 物 皆 重 生 甦 醒

一 切 皆 甦 醒 放 下

放 下 過 去 種 種

一 切 皆 重 生

從 新 的 開 始

往 心 理 去

走 向 未 來


PHOTOGRAPHER / A YUAN CHAN HAIR / 可樂 / DEX / JOHN / 小毛 @ HOWMAI 好美 MAKEUP / 詹惟晴 STYLING / JOHN CHEN @ HOWMAI好美 MODEL / ZIN

ZOMBIE CULTURE_ LOVE & PEACE


the

WAR

HAIR BY 小毛@HOWMAI 好美


the

Brilliant

HAIR BY DEX@HOWMAI 好美


現 今 最 流 行 的   Z O M B I E   C U LT U R E 作品,散發毀滅衰敗後完美重生的 概念,但此創作不僅要走在潮流 尖端,還結合新思維,在衰敗中融 HIPPIES、DISCO、ROCK等閃亮、鮮 豔的多樣貌元素,激盪出新品種藝術風 格。將宛如烽火洗禮後衰敗殘破與璀璨 輝煌混搭,除有生生不息的重生概念, 還刻劃出光明與黑黯的強烈對比。


HAIR BY DEX@HOWMAI 好美


the

Decay


the

Beings


Zombie Culture is the fad nowadays. It possesses this concept of rebirth after destruction and decay. Our shoot this time incorporates this concept with hippy, disco, and rock elements so as to give it a new artistic style. It also depicts a distinct contrast between light and dark.

HAIR BY 可樂@HOWMAI 好美


STYLING & HAIR / JOHN CHEN @ HOWM


INTRODUCE & INTERVIEW

Zombie Culture _ Love and Peace

AI好美

美髮的目的在於除了裝飾與修飾容貌的效果 外,也具有展現個人品味和即增添臉部風采,也 順勢提高了文化水準及生活質感,這次和ABOOK 合作的 Zombie Culture _ Love and Peace 的拍攝 主題種點在於,舊元素新思維,除了重溫70年代的 HIPPIES、DISCO、ROCK不等風格,整體帶上鮮艷 的色彩、閃亮的元素之外也順勢重新發現東方藝術 『僵尸文化』。

Hairdressing aims to beautify one’s entire look, but it is also a way to showcase one’s personal style, and suggests high living and cultural standards. Our theme, “Zombie Culture-Love and Peace” focuses on vintage elements combined with innovative thinking. We bring back the hippies, disco, and rock elements of the 70s and combine it with vibrant colors in an attempt to rediscover oriental art.


COLA 可樂 _ C DEX _ D JOHN _ J XIAO MAO 小毛 _ M

HAIR / 小毛

介紹一下自己

HAIR / DEX

在時尚行業,學到最重要的

HAIR / 可樂

時尚文化的定義?

事情? C : 不管做每件事情,都是保持熱

C  :  無限的熱情及全新全變的想

C : 時尚這件事情很主流,流行的

情的態度 _ D : 思想深刻、熱情 _

法。 _ D : 熱情、耐心、堅持。

事物會一再翻新,重點是要有自

J : 入行23年,曾經合作過的藝人

_ 

J  :  流行一直再走,一直求新

己的特色 _ D : 可以了解時尚,但

有范曉萱、伍百、楊乃文,另外

求變,跟著他走或走在他前面。_

不必跟風,創造獨特的風格,就

還有和林炳存大師合作的「時尚

M  :  工作講求團隊合作,所以在

是時尚。 _ J : 一個生活態度! _

原住民」 _ M : 活在當下,多變。

人事方面的工作分配和溝通是目

M : 沒有特別的定義。

前學到重要的事情。

主業是做美髮的,如何涉略 到做造型部分?

東方文化與西方文化喜歡哪 欣賞的設計師或藝術家?他

個?為什麼?

的精神是什麼? C : 不局限於髮這件事,任何物品

C  :  東方文化,讓人有無限的想

都可創造髮型。 _ D : 他們都是

C  :  達利,藝術創作作品中都是

像空間。_

美的一部分,我喜歡美的一切。

超現實主義。 _ D : Shaun Mc-

之下,西方文化較大膽前衛,例

J : 從小就是被教導著要多看、

Grath,不盲目跟隨流行,為自

如:英國 _ J : 都喜歡,每個文

多學與閱讀國外時尚雜誌,除了

己創作 _ J : 我喜歡「洪通」,他

化都有每個文化他的獨特性和歷

了解整體的趨勢和走向,美髮只

是一位比村上隆藝術家還早期的

史,我喜歡把東西文化做一個混

是造型的其中一部分,造型就代

素人畫家,在他的創作裡可以發

合。 _ M : 東方文化和文字。

表妝、服、髮,所以作造型一定

現到用色大膽之外也非常有趣,

要先瞭解這季的服裝走向,才會

很可惜當時他的畫作沒有妥善的

有髮型跟彩妝的產生,所以要

被保存下來,在市面上也幾乎找

多看髮型以外的時尚雜誌是重要

不到他的東西,另外西方喜愛的

的! _ M : 一切歸於興趣,後來慢

藝術家就是「達利」、「畢卡

慢延伸到整體創作。

索」、 「andy Warhol」 _ M :

_

沒有特別的喜歡,但每個人對藝 術都有自己的想法與風格,我都 很欣賞。

-end

D  :  西方文化,相較


Briefly  introduce  yourselves?

In the fashion industry, what’s the most important thing you’ve learned?

C : I do everything with an en-

What does fashion culture mean to you? C : Fashion is very main-

thusiastic attitude. _ D : Intuitive thought and passion. _ J : I’ve been in the industry for 23 years. I’ve worked with many artists such as Mavis Fan, Wubai, Faith Yang, and photographer Joshua Lin on his “Fashion Aborigines” exhibit. _ M : Live in the moment; everchanging.

C : Infinite passion for what I

do, and new and innovative ideas. _ D : Passion, patience, and perseverance. _ J : Fashion is always moving and changing, you either walk with it or walk infront of it. _ M : It’s a team effort, so communicating and working cohesively with people is what I’ve learned so far.

stream. What’s in fashion will always be changing. The importance is to have your own unique style. _ D : You can understand fashion, but not follow trends. Create your own unique style, tha’ts what’s fashion. _ J : It’s an attitude towards life! _ M : Doesn’t mean anything special to me.

Starting your career as a hairdresser, how did you get into fashion styling?

Favorite designer or artist? What’s the spirit behind their work?

Eastern and Western culture, which one do you like best? Why?

C : I don’t limit myself to hair-

C : Dali. He’s a surrealist. _ D

C  :  Eastern  culture.  Your

dressing, because anything can be used to create a hairstyle. _ D : It’s all a part of beauty, and I love anything beautiful. _ J : Ever since I was young I was taught to observe, and learn from different foreign magazines. Aside from being able to identify trends, I feel that hairstyles are only a part of the entire look. Style means everything, from your makeup, clothing, to your hair. So you must know the latest clothing trends in order to produce the best and complementing hair and makeup. Reading fashion magazines are important! _ M : It started off as an interest, and sort of just grew.

: Shaun McGrath. He doesn’t follow trends but rather is true to himself. _ J : I like the work of Hung Tung. He’s an early painter even before the time of Takashi Murakami. In his work you can find the bold use of colours, but it’s a shame that most of his works were not well preserved. It’s difficult to find his works on the market nowadays. I also like Dali, Picasso, and Andy Warhol. _ M : I don’t have a particular favourite, because I feel that people have their own ideas and personal style. I admire them all.

imagination can run wild. _ D : Western culture. It is comparatively more bold and forward thinking. Example: England. _ J : I like them both. Every culture has their own history and individuality. I like combining east and west. _ M : Eastern culture and writing. -end


THE FIRE OF SPRING

PHOTOGRAPHER / JESSIE HO HAIR & MAKEUP / MONFI LIN MODEL / LIZA, NASTIA SPECIAL THANKS / PASSHIOIN


Start. B

PHOTOGRAP HAIR / ODYE @ E L MAKEUP / STYLING / XI MODEL / NANA @ SPECIAL THANKS / TUANT


Begin.

PHER / KUAN LAN HAIR CONCEPT HUNGYI LU IWI. CHANG @ LO-WEN STUDIO TUAN團團 / DAPHNE達芙妮


INTRODUCE & INTERVIEW Start. Begin.

HAIR / ODYE MAKEUP / HUNGYI LU STYLING / XIWI CHANG

介紹一下自己

命的精髓在於設計靈感以及故事

能辦個有關於自己作品的展。

性,一直都希望能把這點傳達出

  _ M  :  不 停 的 創 作 、 不 停 的 創

H : 我叫翁與盛,來自澎湖,大

來,讓大家更能認識服裝裡面的

作!留下不同時期自己的作品!

約10年前開始來台北討生活。平

故事。

保持初衷! _ S: 希望我的設計

常生活喜歡音樂和電影。 _ M :

以及個人品牌在慢慢走向國際之

來自美麗海島澎湖就讀美術的彩

欣賞的設計師或藝術家?

時,還能依舊保持我一開始對服

妝師小美。 _ S: 我來自一個普

為什麼?

裝的熱情以及創造力,因為看了 太多的設計師為了「活著」這件

通家庭,從小因為媽媽代理童裝 工作的緣故,開啟我對服裝有很

H : 攝影師 Sarah Moon,喜歡

事而漸漸妥協於商業化,這是我

大的興趣,另外在我小的時候,

她用那種陰鬱的方式去表達照片

最不願發生的。

父母覺得我對藝術這方面有很大

故事的感覺。 _ M : 沒有特別欣

的天份,所以從國小開始就往美

賞的藝術家或設計師,因為每為

設計師相關連結

術這方面一直發展直到高中,之

創作者都有自己獨特的魅力及風

H : http://odye38.wix.com/

後大學決定考服裝設計就一直到

格,只要是創作者藝術家都是值

odye#!home/mainPage

現在。

得敬佩的! _ S: Yohji Yamamoto

S: https://www.facebook.

和中國設計師「無用」,這兩位

com/XIWIStyle

在自己的專業領域裡重要

服裝設計師最令我欣賞的特點是

XIWI

事情是?

他們在創作服裝的初衷都是為了 表達布料以及結構的生命性,他

H : 美感、靈感、想像力,覺得

們更希望不單單只是為了跟著流

日常生活中任何細節的感受都

行而設計,我喜歡有生命、有溫

重要。 _ M : 細緻針對不同五官

度的布料以及概念!

調整及敏感色彩學的搭配,與不 同團隊創造藝術。 _ S: 精神跟意

未來的計劃與期許?

義,希望服裝不單單只是表象看 到的樣子,實際背後給予服裝生

H  :  想 累 積 多 點 作 品 , 看 能 不

-end


STYLE / XIWI CHANG

Introduce yourself? H : My name is Odye Wang, I

moved to Taipei from Penghu 10 years ago. _ M : I’m Xiao Mei. I come from the beautiful island of Penghu. I used to study Art. _ S : I come from a regular family. My mother used to be the distributor for a children’s clothing brand, and so that sparked my interest in fashion. When I was young, my parents thought I had a gift in the arts and so I pursued that all throughout high-school, and decided to major in fashion design in university.

In your profession, what do you see as the most important thing? H : An eye for beauty, inspi-

ration, and creativity. The details of everyday life and how you perceive it is very important. _ M : The attention to detail, sensitivity, and the five senses. How you play with and match colors is also important. Working with

MAKEUP / HUNGYI LU

different people and creating different artworks as a team is also crucial. _ S : The spirit and significance behind the clothing. I hope that the clothes aren’t just what you see on the outside, but rather should carry with it a deeper meaning or story. I hope to express these inspirations in my clothing and allow for people to see the story behind the clothes.

Your favorite designer or artist? Why? H : I like how photographer

Sarah Moon uses very dark and gloomy effects to express a story. _ M : I don’t have a favorite artist or designer because I feel like every creative person has their own unique style and charm about them. All artists are worthy of admiration! _ S : My favorite designers are Yohji Yamamoto and Chinese designer Wuyong. These two designers both started designing with the

HAIR / ODYE

aspiration to express the life behind the design and fabric. They don’t just follow trends, but rather, their work embodies a concept and soul.

Future plans and goals? H : I hope to build on my port-

folio and hopefully hold my own exhibit one day. _ M : Keep on creating. Stay true to my beliefs and to have different works in different points of my life. _ S : I hope that my designs and my brand can gain international attention but to also maintain my love and passion for fashion. I’ve seen many designers sort of commercialize because of the need to stay alive. I hope that doesn’t happen to me. -end


PHOTOGRAPHY : ASH MAKE UP : EDDI SHI HAIR : ROY CHANG MODEL : RIEMAH HUANG @ STORM MODEL CLOTHING DESIGN : KA LI

S E C T O R M U TAT I O N


果嶺般的現實生活透過各種形式的自我壓抑、矛盾, 併發重組後再次構築自我。 The realities of life and the various realms of selfoppression and conflict, followed by the complicated reconstruction of one’s self.


PHOTOGRAPHER / ALEXANDER SUPERTRAMP STYLING & MAKEUP / HALU HUANG HAIR / ODYE @ E LAN HAIR CONCEPT MODEL / RUBY SHIAO@LO WEN STUDIO SPECIAL THANKS / YAN YAN / DAPHNE達芙妮

花 開 得 漂 亮 . 蝴 蝶 自 然 來


蟄 伏 於 盛 夏 , 藏 華 於 當 春


不想成為複製品

只想成為音樂家

PHOTOGRAPHER / JOSHUA LIN HAIR & MAKEUP / MONFI LIN


發掘自己淺在另一面的音樂 靈魂,不怕麻煩,聆聽自己 的聲音、細心守護自己真實 感受與主觀思維


在音樂創作上覺得自己是完美

裡,這樣一來我覺得我會對得起自

主義著嗎

己,也用全心全力去創作出自己要的 音樂水準。

一直覺得音樂沒有對或錯,所以沒有 完美或不完美,音樂的流行一直都在

在你的人生裡,最想挑戰什麼

改變,能寫出自己對世界的感受跟

事情?

經驗對我來說已經很滿足也很完美, 但我還是認為有很多學習與進步的

挑戰每一天可以做一個比昨天更好的

空間。

女生、女朋友、女兒!

覺得世界上最屌的事情是什麼

台灣與國外做音樂最大的差別

世界最屌的事可能是特技跳傘

台灣做音樂的方式比較直接也比較

(sky  diving),覺得可以從天空看到世

方便,而且也沒有那麼多規矩,覺得

界的美很酷,也覺得會去嘗試的人也

台灣是一個很能接受藝術跟新的創意

很酷、很勇敢,但自己還是會覺得怕

的地方,可惜的是很多人都會害怕,

怕的所以還沒試過,看看以後會不會

國外比較多規矩但很多人很勇於創

有機會!

新,不管有沒有人會接受。

維持一定的音樂水準,什麼事

接下來的計劃

情是最重要的? 今年五月幫金銀帝國拍一個作品大 在去年的時候我突然有一天醒過來

概5月會出來,接下來計劃預計6,7月

跟自己說,我現在開始要做自己喜歡

要出單曲跟專輯,如果有機會的話,

的音樂,以前會很在乎別人怎麼想,

也希望嘗試一些戲劇演出。

因為每個人都有他們自己喜歡聽的

-end

音樂,但我沒有辦法滿足每一個人的 需求,因為這樣所以一定會寫不出 好歌,到最後東西也不會屬於你自己 的,就只因為為了滿足別人而搞糟自 己的作品,所以現在不管怎麼樣,誰 跟我說任何的想法,我都會聆聽,但 到最後的決定還是掌握在我自己的手


Are you a perfectionist when it comes to making your own music? I’ve always believed there’s no right or wrong in music, and there’s no perfect or imperfect. Popular music is always changing, and for me it’s already very fulfilling to be able to write about my experiences and emotions about the world through music. I still think there’s a lot of room for me to grow and improve.

What’s the coolest thing in the world? The coolest thing would have to be skydiving. To be able to see the world from up above the skies, is so cool, and people who are brave enough to do it is super cool too. For me I’m still a bit afraid of doing it, but maybe in the future I’ll find the courage to.

What’s the most important strategy behind continuously putting out great music? On a random day last year, I suddenly woke up and said to myself, from now on I’m going to be making music that is true to me, no matter what other people may think. Because everyone has their own favorite genre or style of music, there’s no way I can satisfy everyone’s preferences. If I tried , there’s no way I’d be able to write a great song, and at the end I wouldn’t even be able to call it my own. So now, no matter what other people say, I’ll listen, but I need to have

that final decision in my own hands because it’s the only way I can live with myself. I give it my all, and try my best to create music that is at a certain level that I want.

In your daily life, what do you challenge yourself with? I challenge myself everyday, to be a better woman, a better girlfriend, and a better daughter!

What’s the biggest difference between making music in Taiwan and overseas? Making music in Taiwan is more direct and more convenient. There aren’t as many rules. I think Taiwan is very accepting of art and new creative ideas, but unfortunately oftentimes people are afraid to try it. Overseas, there are a lot of rules and procedures but people are more willing to innovate, no matter if anyone will accept it or not.

What’s next for you? This May I’m doing a project with Imperial Taels, and in June or July I’ll be releasing my new single and album. If the opportunity comes, I’d like to try out some acting as well.

-end


THE NEW SEED OF CO

概 念 時 尚


N CEPTUAL FASHION

尚 新 種 子


概 念 時 尚

是一種把經驗與概念表達在服裝設計上 的 創 作 形 式, 這 些 服 裝 已 經 超 脫 了 原 本 以 實 用、 美 觀 為 起 點 的 意 義, 在 設 計 上 投 入 更 多 原 創 的 概 念, 成 為 藝 術 創 作 的 一 環,Hussein Chalayan、Alexander McQueen 和 Gareth Pugh 等設計師都是這 種 類 型 的 創 作 者, 在 台 灣 也 逐 漸 興 起 這 樣以概念為創作原點的服裝設計。


CONCEPTUAL FASHION

is when experiences and the interpretation of new ideas become the main purpose during fashion design. Clothes become more than just being practical and pretty, they become pieces of artwork filled with origi nality.

Hussein Chalayan, Alexander

McQueen, and Gareth Pugh are all de signers within this genre and more and more designers in Taiwan are following suit in taking fashion to an other level of creativity.


一切都說了,一切都做了

WHAT’S SAID IS SAID, WHAT’S DONE IS DONE 受到社會塑形造的形體,矛盾、掙扎, 只為突破牽制而確保自我意識蔓延。

OUR SENSE OF SELF IS SHAPED SO MUCH BY SOCIETY; IT’S A CONTRADICTION, IT’S A STRUGGLE TO BREAKTHROUGH AND MAINTAIN OUR INDIVIDUALITY.

PHOTOGRAPHY : ASH MAKE UP & HAIR : EDDI SHI MODEL : TOBY HUANG & DAISY WANG @LOWEN STUDIO CLOTHING DESIGN : 周芸廷


是什麼樣的靈感或理念,趨

對於自製布料與後加工的同

使你對「第二性」做了系列

時,是否有遇到難以掌控的

服裝?

問題?

因為自己的父親是大男人主義

我的確使用了許多方法處理

者,所以我從小就對性別的議題

收邊上的困難與不按牌理的版

特別敏感,有時候想要隱形起來

型,譬如為了創造出特殊手感的

讓外界無法直視,沒有所謂的性

布料,將無法送機器做燙櫬處理

別器官就無法辨識出性別,用

的布料,熬夜用熨斗燙了整個晚

這樣的方式確保自己不會被既定

上,但隔天送去工廠加工摺子卻遇

的刻版思想侵犯。再者是西蒙波

到厚度上的困難,為了讓布料變

娃的《第二性》給了我很大的影

薄只好把昨晚熬夜的成果,哭著

響,他將我內心不知如何表達的

當場撕掉。

流動意念轉換成實體文字,讓我 對長久以來的性別掙扎有了另個

六套服裝中,他們是否又有

出口。

各自要傳達的意念?

在這一連串的設計發想裡,

我不喜歡給自己的作品明確定

是如何選擇布料與印花加以

義,因為不同的內外環境所接收

運用?

到的訊息都不同,但這些服裝就 是順著各種故事自然而然發生

布料的選擇是從思考服裝本身的

的,每個人都可以替他們說故

性別開始,也許服裝有著自己的

事,屬於自己的故事。

性別而他們的性別也是矛盾的, 因此運用硬挺材質模仿針織紋理 結合柔和的網眼布料表達性別矛 盾的一面。印花則是經由各種扭 曲壓縮後塑造出的社會化女性器 官轉變而來。

-end


What inspired you to create your collection titled “The Second Sex”?

In your design concepts, how do you choose which fabrics or prints to use?

First of all, my dad was very much a chauvinist, and so I was very sensitive to gender issues ever since a young age. Sometimes I wished I would become invisible so that the world would stop staring at me straight in the eye. I thought that if there were no sexual organs, then you wouldn’t be able to judge which gender one portrayed. It was a way for me to protect myself from being violated by gender stereotypes. I was also very much influenced by Simone de Beauvoir’s book “The Second Sex”. The book put into words what I could not express and it gave me an avenue to explore my inner gender struggles.

My fabric selection comes from thinking about what gender the clothing itself entails. Maybe the gender is blurred or contradicting, and so I’d use thicker or very structured fabric, combined with mesh to express the duality. Floral prints to me, on the other hand, are socially given, twisted and compressed symbolisms of the female gender.

When working with your own self made fabrics, any problems or uncontrollable scenarios? I’ve spent a lot of time discovering different seam finishes especially on unique or abstract patterns. I once spent all night ironing pieces of fabric together in order to create something

special to the touch, but when I sent it to be pleated the next day, they couldn’t work with it because of the thickness of the fabric. I had to rip it all apart on the spot. It was definitely depressing.

The 6 looks in your collection, do they have different messages you wish to convey? I don’t like to give obvious definitions to my work because different inner and outer environments influence different people, and thus the messages they receive are different. These pieces are just natural parts of any story, and anyone can give them definition and a story true to themselves. -end


第一性被爸爸粗暴地領走,媽媽只好委屈 地做第二性,那服裝的第一性和第二性又 該如何區分?是否第二性永遠在父權社會 下只能委曲地做第二性?服裝的抽皺暗示 女性生殖器官的形象,兩性的器官被藏在 大大小小的印花當中。若運動的網眼布是 第一性,柔軟的針織布是第二性他們有沒 有什麼新的可能?我以硬挺的材質模仿針 織紋理的效果製造陰陽調和,呈現一系列 叛逆的服裝性別想像。


Father barbarously took the first sex, so Mother had to accept being the second sex. How is this gender-order portrayed in clothing? Is the second sex always going to fall inferior to the first in our patriarchal society? The pleats in clothing perhaps suggest the female sex organ, and gender parts are quietly hidden in various floral and pattern designs. If sporty mesh fabrics represent the first sex, and soft knitted fabrics represent the second, are there any new possibilities to be created with the two? I use heavy and rigid textiles to imitate knitted fabric effects, to create this cohesion of Ying and Yang, and a rebellious collection that explores the imagination of clothing gender.


LAURENCE & CHICO Laurence 和 Chico 都

於 Parsons  The

New  School,紐約帕森斯藝術與設計學院。Laurence 讀 的 是 Fashion  Marketing, 服 裝 市 場 管 理,Chico 讀 的 是 Fashion  Design, 服 裝 設 計。Laurence 平 時 也 兼 職 做 時 裝 博 主。Chico 之 前 有 著 9 年 的 視 覺 設 計 工 作, 並 幫 助 眾 多 國 際 一 線 品 牌 做 櫥 窗 設 計 以 及 陳 列。Chico 曾 獲 得 CCTV  6 創 意 星 空 全 國 總 冠 軍。2015 年 Laurence 和 Chico 一 起 創 造 了 品 牌 Laurence & Chico。 Laurence & Chico 所有的設計靈感都來源與 Laurence 的小畫。Laurence 用這種特殊的方式紀錄著生活中的 人與事。而在 Laurence 的小畫中只會出現 Laurence 和 Chico 兩個人物,而身邊的朋友與親人則用和他 們性格長相相符的動物或植物來代替。在 Laurence 的 小 畫 中 充 滿 了 各 種 調 性 的 幽 默 與 豐 富 的 色 彩, 這 給 了 Chico 非 常 充 足 的 靈 感,Chico 重 新 整 合 了 Laurence 的小畫,利用 Laurence 小畫中所表達的故 事與人物組合成不同的系列,而在系列裡 Laurence 的小畫則延伸出不同色調印花與結構拼接,而這些 則 豐 富 了 Laurence & Chico 的 貨 品 組 織。Laurence 用 他 的 小 畫 紀 錄 著 Laurence 和 Chico 的 生 活。 而 Laurence & Chico 則 演 繹 著 Laurence 和 Chico 的人生。 -end


Laurence and Chico was established in January 2015 by Laurence Li and Chico Wang. Laurence and Chico both attended Parsons The New School. Laurence majored in Fashion Marketing and Chico majored in Fashion Design. Laurence is a part-time fashion blogger. Chico has had a career in Visual Design for nine years. He has worked with some of the top luxury brands (including Mcqueen, Givenchy and Miu Miu) and luxury boutiques (Lane Crawford) in the world. Laurence and Chico’s entire brand inspiration comes from Laurence’s illustrations. Laurence uses this unique method to record their daily lives. In Laurence’s illustrations, only Laurence and Chico are drawn as two human characters. Laurence and Chico’s friends and family are all characterized as some sort of animal, plant, fruit or vegetable figure. Laurence’s illustrations are filled with an unique sense of humor and many colors. This inspires Chico to use elements from Laurence’s illustrations to create interesting, humorous and fun prints and silhouettes for Laurence and Chico’s merchandise. -end

FACEBOOK laurenceandc

INSTAGRAM laurenceandchico


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From  R


Readers


:: Submissions PHOTOGRAPHER: SHU-WEI HUANG (舒瑋) MAKE UP ARTIST: SNOWKEI LAN (雪姬) MODEL: DANIELLE YEN(顏卉婕)

Pack

日常生活中總是有太多的過度包裝,浪費了許 多資源,甚至造成污染。一開始為了保護產品 所製造出來的東西反而破壞了大自然,造成更 無法彌補的傷害。

In our daily life we are bombarded with excessive packaging. It’s a waste of resources and even causes pollution. What is meant to protect the product, has instead, destroyed Mother Nature, and caused irreversible damage.


ABOOK Magazine 24 ::


:: Submissions PHOTOGRAPHER / HEDI WANG PHOTO RETOUCHER / ROSE JIANG FASHION DESIGNER / PHOEBE HUANG MAKEUP ARTIST / PHOEBE HUANG ASSISTANT / BLUE CHEN MODEL / MANDA CHUANG / BETTY WANG

驚 蟄​​

新春甫驚蟄,草木猶未知。 春來莫嫌早,春去恐莫追。


ABOOK Magazine 24 ::

THE AWAKENING OF INSECTS

Early springtime is coming, but the grass seems unknowing. The spring seems to come too early, and the springtime will leave in a hurry.


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