ABOOK MAGAZINE Issue 15

The Lost Golden Age 失落的 黃金年代

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The Lost Golden Age

ABOOK 意團隊文化事業有限公司 104 台北市內湖區港墘路 221 巷 39-1 號 Tel : (02)2657-1666 Fax:(02)2657-1555 Email : hello@abook.cc Website : www.abook.cc

監製 Supervisor : 張艾嘉 執行 Executive : 林炳存 Joshua Lin

攝影總監 Photography Director : 林威呈 Wei Lin 攝影編輯 Photography Editors : 林特、張騰元、陳冠璋、 Linda Cooper

創意總監 Creative Director : 尹培袞 Sean Yin 發行人 Publisher : 賀錫敬 Leo Ho

造型總監 Styling Director : 林夢薇 Monfi Lin

總編輯 Editor in Chief : 林特

編輯策劃 : Executive Director : 趙欣、桑科

翻譯編輯 Translation Editor :

顧問團隊 : 陽帆、廖鎮漢、詹仁雄、林知佑、廖曉喬

姜怡凡 Annie Chiang、鄭昭新 Frank Cheng

色彩管理 : 王振昇 行政管理 : 張騰元

英國特駐 Overseas Editor : Linda Cooper 採訪編輯 Assistant Editor : 李佾樺 Tim Lee

視覺主編 Design Director : Alex Chang 視覺編輯 Visual Editor : 王培華 Hingis 、陳宛均 kye

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總務管理 : 李佾樺 執行公關 : 星予公關

C o n t e n t

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總編輯的話 / EDITOR’S NOTE

世界末日似乎是過了。 The end of the world did not occur.

p66-77 封面故事

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COVER STORY

魔幻自由 - 范曉萱 p06-09

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新銳特急

Mavis v.s. Mavis

ABOOK EXPRESS

PHOTOTAIPEI2012 p80-91 影像視界

/ ABOOK GAZE

縮時攝影雕塑光的軌跡 – 新媒體藝術家丁建中 p10-65 時尚攝影

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ABOOK FASHION

To shape the track of Light in Time Lapse – New Media Artist Din Chin-Chung

天涯歌女李香蘭 Singing til the END

「如果覺得難，就是不夠愛。」 時尚攝影師 蘇益良 專訪 ( 前編 )

LOST

“If you can’t overcome the obstacles then you don’t have the enough passion to it”

末日

Fashion Photographer SuYi Liang Interview (part one)

Decadent Doomsday

始動 UPRISING

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來稿登錄：失落的黃金年代 California Dreaming

READER’S CORNER :The Lost Golden Age

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The end of the world did not occur.

EDITOR‘S NOTE

BY LINTER

世

界

末

日

似

乎

是

過

了

。

世界末日的存在其實一點都不是該絕望的事情，反倒像 是一種希望，在無聊至極的生活裡找到一個目標，雖然 是個很毀滅的目標，就像一個自殺者著手準備執行的動 力一樣毀滅，卻也沒什麼不好。

從反核、地社，到旺中，年輕的一代似乎被社會用無以 名狀的方式摧殘著，海明威的良師益友、同時也是對美 國現代主義文學頗具影響力的葛楚．史坦（Gertrude Stein）有一次對著年輕的海明威說：「你們這一代上過 戰場的年輕人，全都是失落的一代，對什麽事都漠不關 心，成天醉生夢死。」

The existence of this day should never be seen as a desperate incident. It’s more like hopefulness

in a mundane and meaningless life. It may seem destructive. It may seem suicidal. However,

ironically speaking it’s like a means to an end. If destruction gives way to motivation and action, then perhaps it is not such a bad thing.

From the anti-nuclear protests, to the Live House 許多燦爛正在消失著，雖然我們沒有真正的戰爭使我們 成為那失落的，或垮掉的一代，然而從最近所謂文藝青 年們出動參與抗爭的事件來看，在社會上，在體制下， 我們或許是迷失的、是徬徨的，是逃避著的，也是戰鬥 著的。

underground-society incident, to the Want Want

China Times Group event, our young generation

has been enervated by society in an indescribable way. Gertrude Stein, an influential author in American literary modernism, once said to

his good friend Earnest Hemingway, “all you

young people who served in the war are a lost 我們想要緬懷過去的精彩，在我們未曾經歷過的美好裡 浮沈，找到那些復古的線索，然後像電影Midnight in Paris一樣，乘上一輛午夜的車，去參加一個已經逝去 的派對。

因為想要逃避現在，卻又不得不向前，我們只好背對著 前方繼續走著。

generation. You have no respect for anything.”

Many glorious things are vanishing nowadays.

Although there is no actual war in the current day to turn us into a lost generation, as Stein puts

it, the protests and demonstrations attended by a mass amount of our youth today may reveal the

ways in which we might be lost, frustrated, and confused, but nonetheless we keep on fighting.

Looking upon clues from ancient times, we are

all trying to re-live the past glory and start the

beautiful life we’ve always imagined; just like the

movie Midnight in Paris, depicting the protagonist taking a midnight train to attend a long gone party.

Time moves on, though we are in a dilemma as whether to move forward or to run away from reality, we’ve got to move on even if it means

turning our backs and walking backwards but forward.

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ABOOK EXPRESS

P H OTO T A I P E I Photography : Linter 林特

2 0 1 2 似乎在世界各地都一樣，入秋直到冬天的這段時間，總是會有最多的藝 術展覽，有可能是因為天氣，也有可能是因為心情，總之是該收起戶 外活動的季節。台灣的攝影相關展覽有越來越多的趨勢，而大型的活

spring up around the world. Perhaps it’s the weather or perhaps it’s the aura of the seasons that brings about artistic creation and events fitted for the indoor. “Photo Taipei 2012” was one of the bigger-scale events to be held in Taiwan recently, and it

動更是活絡，PHOTO TAIPEI即是這大型展覽活動之一，集合藝術與商業

was where artistic and commercial pieces were able to blend together to give artists

作品，讓藝術家與攝影喜好者零距離接觸交流，藝術攝影似乎可以變得

and audiences a platform to converge, whilst making artistic photography a seemingly

很生活。

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Every year during the fall and winter, there tends to be a variety of art exhibitions that

more natural part of everyday life.

PHOTO TAIPEI 2012已經是第四屆，這次整個展覽分成三個部份：藝廊、

名人公益攝影展、狂愛披頭四經典攝影展。幾個目前台灣非常知名的藝 廊如關想、頡學、新苑等等，都展出非常有趣的作品，來自日本的藝廊

Photo Taipei this year saw the entire exhibition separated into three main categories entitled: “Galleries”, “Arts Charity”, and “BEATLEMANIA X TAIWAN”. Many famous art galleries from around Taiwan, including Guan Xiang Art Gallery, Ku Gallery, and Galerie Grand Siècle have also contributed many unique and attractive works to the

B Gallery是潮牌BEAMS所主導，因此展出的作品也具高度流行實驗性，

show. B Gallery from Japan is lead by fashion label “Beams”, so many of their works

如名古根美津子的「無臉」計畫，試圖傳達自身的信念給觀者：自我是

featured showcase an experiment with fashion elements and pushes the boundaries

被創造出來的，而不是被找到的。挑戰人們對於「自我」先入為主的觀 念與既視印象。其他藝廊也看得到許多著名作品：荒木經惟、杜韻飛、 李小鏡等。

of eclectic trends. Mitsuko Nagone’s piece with a “new self, new to self” theme was also a centerpiece of the show. Her nonconventional idea of “self” is challenged into debate as she conveys the belief that individuals are creating themselves, rather than finding them. Other famous works that were exhibited include those of Araki Nobuyoshi, Yu Fei Tou, and Daniel Lee.

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而名人公益攝影展今年仍由黃子佼策展，以「暖」為主題，現場聚集了 八十多件名人作品，包含成龍、盧廣仲、張鈞甯等等，Abook Magazine 主腦攝影師林炳存的作品也在其中之一，其中值得一提的是，因為電視

nowned show host Mickey Huang. The theme for the celebrity photographers this year was “warmth” and more than 80 works created by celebrities such as Jackie Chan, Crowd Lu, Janine Chang and Joshua Lin (founder and director of Abook Magazine)

廣告成名的全聯先生，他原是廣告創意人，這次也運用PHOTO TAIPEI展

were exhibited. Also worth mentioning was Mr. PXmart (who gained fame through

場的飯店廁所，作了一「廁展人」的創作，在廁所的每個角落留下自己

various TV commercials for the supermarket chain), who also presented his works in

曾在這裡「生活」的拍立得自拍照，說是攝影作品更像是裝置作品，也 是令觀者發出會心一笑的有趣作品。

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The mastermind behind the “Arts Charity” category this year was once again re-

the exhibit. As a past advertising executive he decided to use hotel bathrooms as the background for a series of Polaroid pictures that he took. His works were creative, interesting, and full of humor.

作為整個PHOTO TAIPEI的主打，狂愛披頭四Beatlemania攝影展一點也沒 令人失望，這個展覽是慶祝披頭四樂團成立五十週年，從倫敦奧運開

Being the primary event in Photo Taipei this year, “BEATLEMANIA X TAIWAN” surely didn’t let anyone down. In celebration of The Beatles 50th anniversary, the exhibit in Taiwan is just one of many stops in it’s world tour which began at the London

幕期間開始世界巡迴。所有展出的作品，都是英國鏡報The Mirror的攝

Olympics. All of the photographs exhibited of The Beatles were taken by celebrity

影記者Richard Havers在隨著披頭四巡迴時所拍，並在當時未在任何媒體

photographer Richard Havers and Daily Mirror. Some of the photos were even exclu-

曝光過的珍貴影像，現場除了有許多披頭四唱片、海報、老唱機、樂器

sively taken for the exhibit. An array of Beatles’ records, posters, gramophones and

之外，主辦單位也安排了許多音樂表演，讓整個觀展氣氛濃郁了起來。

musical instruments were part of the décor and musical performances throughout the day brought a sense of comfort and completeness to the show.

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A B O O K FA S H I O N

天 涯 歌 女 李 Singing til the END

香 蘭

在每個時代裡，賣藝女人的命運總是特別微妙，或許哪天遇見個 貴客，又是真愛，就飛上枝頭當鳳凰，只是又有多少人能有這般 好運氣，只得待到風華老去，淪為天涯歌女，繼續唱著紅塵。

Photography : Kate Linter 林特 Styling : Monfi Lin Model : 劉欣愉 @ Lowen Studio

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Making of “Singing til the END”” Canon 5D Mark III 24-70mm F2.8 Hasselblad 503x 80mm F2.8

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A B O O K FA S H I O N

L O S T

舊地重遊，緬懷過去曾經的風光輝煌，任由青春隨意流逝 如果可以再來一次，應該要好好把握，應該要好好珍惜 可惜一切只是如果 陪伴自己的只剩下腦海中的過去與失落

Photography : Kuan Chang Chen Make-up & Hair : 劉俐妏 Model : Klaudia @Feliz Wardrobe : 溫慶珠 Isabella Wen, La Perla Accessory : The Accessory Shop Special Thanks to 好仕居精緻生活館 House Stager

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A B O O K FA S H I O N

Decadent Doomsday

末 日

就像望月峰太郎筆下的災難與人性，世界剩下殘存的兩人，一面 被黑暗與死亡所束縛，一面抱持著各自的希望繼續展開旅程，他 們或許對未來感到絕望了，也或許沒有，能確實把握並留下的， 大概只有回憶了。

Photography : Kate Linter 林特 STYLING : Monfi Lin Model : Diana @Feliz, Jude Chen Wardrobe : Fabric Location : Jackie Chan

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A B O O K FA S H I O N

UPRISING 始動

If you could flick a switch and open your t h i r d e y e , Yo u ’ d s e e t h a t

Photography : A YUAN CHANG Styling : MONFI LIN Models : Jill@Feliz

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Making of “Uprising” Sony A99 Sonnar 135mm F1.8

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A B O O K FA S H I O N

California Dreaming California in the 70's was a modern renaissance a time of wild personal freedom and exploration.

Music, art, and fashion defined the revolution. The

spread of peace and love resulted in new friendships and ideas. As the late Jim Morrison (of the Doors) said, "A friend is someone who lets you have total freedom to be yourself."

Fahsion Film and Photography Directed : David Branson / Mikey Piliero Starring : Danielle Perry / Holly Parker Make up : Jess Berrios Hair : Natalie Garza Style : Remi Ishizuka

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COVER STORY

魔 幻 自 由

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Mavis v.s. Mavis

范 曉 萱

Photography : Joshua Lin Styling : Monfi Lin Wardrobe : TRAD Philosophy, Vivienne Westwood, MOSCHINO Interview : Kate Linter 林特 Backstage Photography : Kuan Chang Chen, Frank Cheng

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前一陣子看了電影「聽風者」，發現范曉萱的

The Mavis Fan that I remember in my mind was completely different than

表演和以前不一樣了，除了投入與認真，又多

the person I saw recently in the movie The Silent War. There was something

了 一 份 自 在 ， 就 像 這 天 她 走 進 ABOOK攝 影 棚

about the way she performed; her diligence and focus in her role was re-

工作，空氣彷彿變了，從化妝、拍攝到採訪，

flected in the naturalness she brought to her character. Mavis Fan as an

她都展現了一個專業表演者的高度專注與游刃

actor embodies an ease that is so rare in the industry. When she walked in

有餘，所有工作人員也像是被施了魔法般，一瞬

to our studio for the photo shoot, the entire room just lit up. From hair and

間被她的個性與魅力迷倒。

makeup, to the actual shoot, to our interview at the end, her professionalism, charm, and courteous demeanor seems to have cast a spell on all of us. It is like magic. It is why Mavis Fan is a star.

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最近在忙的事情是？ 最近在忙一些演出，還有之前幫媽媽出的專輯，然後拍了一個 MV、當了一下特別嘉賓、寫自己的歌、弄專輯的東西，明年春天 的時候會有一部電影要上，然後專輯還在體驗生活、收集靈感。

最近熱中的造型是？對這次封面造型的感覺是？ 最近都沒有熱衷什麼造型，而且工作的時候就會接觸很多造型，所 以生活中是越舒適越好，能穿睡衣就穿睡衣，越是最近越覺得衣服 只是人的一部分，整體來講，可能髮型和妝還有態度、調調來得更 重要，會穿的衣服都是自己很喜歡的，覺得就是be yourself ，不管 穿什麼，個人特質鮮明最重要。

這次封面造型有一種融合和自由的感覺，融合是因為自己的 性別卻穿著男性的西裝，或是頭和帽子之間的關係，覺得這是 很有想像空間的，是很自在自由的，帽子都有藏著一種神祕感，戴 著低低的就會讓人想像眼神。

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對於時常需要被拍照的你，覺得攝影師在什麼狀況下 會讓你覺得很自在地工作？ 以前比較在意攝影的狀況與環境，現在不管什麼情況下都可以讓自 己自在，一站在背景紙前或是一個場景的時候，自己會覺得這是一 個另外的世界，外面有沒有人，有沒有攝影機都沒有關係了，已經 進入了那個時空裡面。

大哥（林炳存）的拍攝方式就會讓人更快速的投入，因為他會給你 很強烈的鼓勵，有的時候拍攝就像是在做音樂一樣，他發出一個聲 音告訴你拍攝的節奏，會因為他的聲音而去回應變換動作，這樣比 較有互動和默契。有些攝影師拍攝的時候默默的，或是比較不知道 怎麼表達的時候，會比較不知道怎麼去拿捏，不知道他拍了沒有、 可不可以變換動作，會需要磨合一下。

自己平常滿容易進入到自己的世界，常作白日夢，心裡也常會有配 樂，像是這個場景適合怎麼樣的配樂，很習慣自己切換狀態，加上 作演員已經滿久，所以對表演也有相當的經驗了。

對於這一期Abook Magazine的主題有沒有什麼立即聯 想到的？ 立刻想到自己常有的一種感覺。 很多的經典一直在消失，但也因為這樣所以才能是經典，以前的人 美的話為什麼可以美成這樣、好聽的音樂儘管簡單卻很雋永。很多 很多的東西都在流失，那該怎麼辦，作為這一代、下一代、下下一 代的人，會不斷有一種複製或者循環，我們會很想追求某個年代曾

對攝影有沒有特別熱愛？平常有拍照的習慣嗎？ 目前持有的相機是？

經有的一種輝煌，然後融合現在進化成一種混搭的感覺，至於真正 屬於現在的代表是什麼，似乎也變得模糊了。

之前有買一些相機，目前使用的是Panasonic Lumix DMC-Gf1，但最 常使用的還是手機。有拍照習慣，但和熱愛的人比較起來並沒有那 麼熱愛，特別喜歡拍天空，喜歡拍雲。

你對於自己小時候的那個年代，有什麼特別印象深 刻，想要特別留下的回憶？ 想留下的回憶都留的很深。

對自拍的感覺是什麼？ 很難拍的很好看。 拍過幾張覺得技術真的不怎麼樣，所以就放棄了，除非要記錄造 型，或有特殊的目的，不然平常都沒有自拍的習慣。

小時候覺得四季特別分明，換季的時候，會聞到秋天的味道，感覺 得出秋天要來了，現在卻越來越模糊，越來越短，秋天大概一兩個 禮拜，冬天就到了，覺得沒有那麼滿足，也沒有那麼平衡。 小時候很單純，對外面的叫賣聲印象很深刻，還有午後的感覺，吃 零食、豆花加小粉圓。以前的雜貨店，雖然都賣很不健康的東西， 但是味道都讓人難忘。

世界末日過了，這個議題在你的生活裡曾經成為話題 嗎？你對這件事的感覺是？ 覺得這議題很有趣，也很幽默（笑） 我倒是不覺得緊張，況且每隔一段時間似乎都有這種相關的傳言， 我一直深信我們這一代似乎不會看到所謂的末日，另一個層面上， 末日的含意似乎是在警惕我們，在人的精神面，如果累積了太多的 負面能量，就算活著何嘗不是一種終結，過了末日我們應該要去 想，去回顧或是反省，未來的我們要怎麼活。

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What have you been busy with lately

How do you feel about taking photographs of yourself?

Recently, I’ve been busy with some performances and my mother’s album; I also shot a music

I think it is very hard. I know a lot of people do it especially on their phones. I’ve tried before,

video and guest appeared in various projects. Next spring there’s a movie of mine coming

but personally I don’t think I’ve been able to get any good shots, so I gave up. Unless I want to

out and I’ve just been experiencing life in hopes of falling upon some inspiration for my new

document my makeup of the day or what I’m wearing, I rarely take pictures of myself.

album.

The end of the world has passed, so-to-say. Has this topic ever been part Any favorite style trends lately? How do you feel about the cover photo?

of your discussions with friends or family? What do you feel about a potential ‘end of the world’?

I don’t have any favorite styles or trends lately; when I’m working I usually have to experiment with various fashion styles and clothes, so when I’m not working I opt for anything that’s com-

I think it is an interesting topic and quite funny. I’m not worried about the end of the world at

fortable to wear. Comfort is key for me. If I could wear my pajamas all day, I would. Clothes to

all because every few years or so there seems to be a new rumor that sparks up about another

me have become sort of secondary to personal attitude. To me, being yourself and showing

‘end of the world’ coming. I believe the actual end of the world or end of Earth won’t happen in

who you are as a person is much more important than what you wear.

our time. On another level, I think the meaning behind the ‘end of the world’ actually acts as a kind of warning. It is our inner psyche, whether positive or negative, that decides how we see

For our cover shot, the style embodied gives me a sense of union and a sense of freedom. The

the end of the world to be. I think we shouldn’t dwell on a possible end but rather we should

union is portrayed in a gender swap with me as a woman portraying a more boyish character.

reflect and look back at our mistakes to see how we can better live our future.

Also a union is seen between my head and the hat.The hat to me brings about a mysteriousness; it covers most of my face and so the expression under the brim is left to the viewer’s

What’s your interpretation of the “Lost Golden Age”?

imagination. It was very liberating to say the least.

The lost golden age...it’s something I feel all the time. A lot of the classics, whether it be art

As you need to be photographed a lot, what kind of environment can

or whether it be music, the essence of it all is disappearing. I guess it’s also why it’s deemed a

make you feel more comfortable to work in?

“classic” in the first place but what can we do about it? This generation, the next generation, and the generation after that...have we become part of a cycle that reminisces the past and its

I used to care a lot about the environment of the shoot, but now I can actually feel comfort-

glory by adding classical elements to the modern day? How then can we tell the difference be-

able in almost any situation. Once I stand on set or in the studio, it’s as if I’ve stepped into

tween originality and a mimicking culture? Everything has become blurred it’s hard to explain

another dimension and I become immune to the outside world. It doesn’t even matter if there’s

what truly represents the modern era or current age.

a camera in front of me.

Do you have any specific impressions or memories about your childhood?

The way Joshua works can make people feel very confident and comfortable because he gives you a lot of feedback and compliments. His photo shoots are like making music. Joshua gives

The memories that I want to remember are all in my mind.

you a note to lead you in the right tempo; you naturally change poses according to his notes

I remember the weather and seasons were so distinct when I was a child. When autumn was

or voice. Some photographers are more quiet and don’t really know how to convey what they

about to come you could actually smell the scent of fall. Nowadays everything is blurred and

want to the model. The model then doesn’t really know what to do or when to change poses.

everything is shortened. Fall lasts for maybe 2 weeks and then winter arrives.There’s no satis-

With Joshua, I guess we just have a mutual understanding and we work really well together.

faction and no equilibrium. When I was a child I was very innocent. I remember the afternoon breeze, the corner store and all the unhealthy snacks and candies we’d buy; the tofu desserts

It’s quite easy for me to fall into my own world because I daydream quite often. In my head there’s this constant background music that changes as I move from place to place, so it’s relatively easy for me to get right into the shoot and start performing. I guess I’ve been an actress for quite some time now and my experiences do help.

Do you like photography? Do you take pictures yourself? What camera do you use now?

I bought a few cameras before and what I am using now is the Panasonic Lumix DMC-Gf1.

I use the camera on my phone most of the time though. I do like taking pictures but I can’t compare to those who have a true passion for photography. I guess I wouldn’t be considered an avid photographer. I do like photographing the sky and the clouds though.

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and the food vendors outside my home are all simple memories but ones that I’ll never forget.

75

Making of “Mavis v.s. Mavis�

Pentax 645 Leica S2 120mm F2.5 Broncolor Para 88

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77

TA I WA N TA L E N T S

縮時攝影雕塑光的軌跡– 新媒體藝術家丁建中 Time Lapse Photography and Light Trajectory – New Media Artist Din Chin-Chung

78

Photography : Kuan Chang Chen Text : Kate Linter 林特

新媒體藝術指的是利用現代科技創作的藝術形式，包含錄像藝術、互 動裝置、音像藝術等等，而丁建中的作品即是藉由機械、影像與聲 音，透過媒材間的重複運動，將一遍遍的動作，淡化、消融生活中習 以為常的事件，復刻成某種巨量深刻的閱讀經驗。憑著作品「空屋」 直接的感官衝擊，丁建中在2011台北藝術博覽會ART

TAIPEI新人特

區大放異彩，也令人好奇其作品背後的故事與過程。十一月在新苑藝 術的展覽集合了丁建中創作以來的所有作品及其過程，除了為作品的 執行過程加上圖示之外，也展示了他的工作台。

New media art is a genre that encompasses artworks created with new media technologies, including recording art, virtual art and interactive art. Using repetition and materials such as, machines, video and sound, Din attempts to ease the dull feeling of ordinary life by transforming his works into significant experiences for the senses. His work “Vacant Room” embodies a direct sensational impact for viewers, and gained him notoriety in the 2011 Taipei Art Exhibition for new artists. The exhibition took place in Galerie Grand Siècle in November and featured most of Din’s work and his artistic journey. His artistic blueprints and worktable were also displayed.

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作品「Ordinary Instruments」構想來自黑膠唱盤利用唱針讀取的類比聲響，裝置中透 過對木板紋理的反覆耗損，以換取聽覺、觸覺、視覺及摩擦下溫度的細微辨識，而長 時間執拗的動作，成為無止盡的時間風景。 The idea of Ordinary Instruments comes from the analog voice that read by stylus of LP records. This device underwent a series of repeatedly weariness onto wood in order to retrieve the subtle temperature differences from auditory, tactile and visual stimuli that become the endless landscape of time.

「Vacant Room Series」與法國駐村期間拍攝的「Église Vide」，

“Vacant Room Series” and “Église Vide” feature a coldness and dark-

是將冷冽、懸浮的光圈雕塑，建置於漆黑幽暗的廢棄空間，高

ness within an abandoned space.

速拋擲下的凝視，透過數位電子訊號讀取場域中古老的記憶。

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Ordinary Instruments背後的概念是？ 是在說「重複性」的這件事。 從小家裡做的是醫療器材，所以常常接觸包裝的工廠生產線，生產線的每一個環節都在重複作一件事，不知不覺對重複的事件 開始起了興趣，後來上研究所時，馬達的迴圈作用也很吸引我。重複的動作處理上不像文學，沒有故事主軸或起承轉合，比較 像是空間建築的結構性，並且用時間與空間的狀態產生閱讀上的經驗，像佛經、電子音樂，都是以簡單的元素大量堆疊、大量 重複，雖然單一元素本身可能不具太大的意義，但經過堆疊之後就會呈現有趣的經驗狀態。

這件作品利用馬達結構去作繞圓的運動，圓的運動本身沒有開始或結束，是個不斷重複的線性，透過木板的紋理及其方向性， 機械經過順的與逆的紋理表面時，聲音會有不同的尖銳度，木板經過耗損也會與前一次的回圈產生不一樣的聲音，這聲音對我 來說就像是一個表演，他在第一天執行、和第一周，和第一個月， 的耗損程度都會不同，像是一個有聲命的狀態，漸漸衰敗。這個衰敗除了是聽覺上的，甚至視覺與觸覺上也是。

關於空屋系列Vacant Room Series？ 因為曾經想要作與建築有關的事，因此我對結構很感興趣，在空屋這系列的作品中，光與鏡頭的關係組成一個空間內的結構， 光的繞圓與結構空間的關係。如同衛星與行星的繞行關係，空屋（一）運用光與鏡頭的相對關係，進行縮時攝影，每移動一次 光源就要記下所有的角度位置，並作記號。空屋（二）則是在繞行角度上加上傾斜的概念，像是小時候繪圖用的萬花尺，繞圓 的中心會移動，結構的透視感就會有強烈變化，產生逼近與遠離的關係。空屋（三）glise Vide則是今年六月在法國駐村的作 品，更逼近空間的概念，選擇教堂作為主角是因為它包含了特殊符號在內，充滿了神祕且神聖的氣氛，也與未來感的未知感相 互扣合。

圍繞光，時間，空間的作品 小時候其實想要當建築師，因此產生許多結構的想法，將時間與空間結構化，就有點像建築師在測量空間一樣。作品像是在紀 錄著光的美一個瞬間，丁建中覺得要作光的雕塑，如果只是去造一個燈管，發光的圓圈，與紀錄光的美一個瞬間在空間中的位 置，然後堆疊起來形成的，是很不一樣的，

用攝影來創作的原因？ 許多人雕塑的時候都是用物質去雕塑，透過鏡頭去紀錄時間與空間來作雕塑，是一個很難掌控的狀態，但這個狀態又是一個很 現場表演的的狀態，另外自動測光使環境閃爍，也是一個在現場執行中無法預測的，像這樣的無法掌握，就是這種創作媒材的 表情。

執行過程中的趣事？ 在黑暗中工作有些可怕，每個環境都有不一樣的困難，尤其教堂在架設腳架的 時候，必須越過椅子，相較之下比較辛苦，而有些場地的廢棄物很多，讓畫面 產生晃動的感覺，這些許多的不完美或許才是作品的靈魂，因為這樣的類似光的軌跡的影像，其實也可用動畫製成，但就失去 了現場的感覺。失誤會變成有趣的驚喜。

發靈感的事物？ 極限音樂飛利浦葛拉絲，他用一個單音作一首音樂，非常單一，和一般流行or搖滾音樂不一樣，他沒有情緒也沒有起承轉合， 和我的作品有類似之處。

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The Concept Behind “Ordinary Instruments”

a show to me; the wood and its decay contain tactile, auditory, and visual stimulus.

The concept of this work is about “repetition”. Our family business is in making medical equipment, so I am quite familiar with the produc-

About the “Vacant Room Series”

tion line and the packing factory; every link or station on the pro-

I was once interested in architecture because I’m intrigued by struc-

duction line is doing the same thing repeatedly. I gradually gained

ture and form. In my “Vacant Room Series”, the relation of light and

interest in “repeated things”. During graduate school, the circula-

the lens, together forms the structure within a space, much like the

tory motion of electric motors also caught my attention. Repetition

relationship of the moons and planets in outer space. “Vacant Room

in movement is a lot different than literature. There’s no outline or

1” uses time-lapse photography and every movement of light and its

chronological order to the story. It’s more like architecture and time

angle is recorded. “Vacant Room 2” explores the use of angles and

and space is intertwined. Religious sutras and techno music are all

tilt, much like a kaleidoscope circulating with a center point, creating

built from simple elements and through repetition creates something

a near and yet far away illusion. “Vacant Room 3- Église Vide” was

that is much bigger as a whole than the parts alone.

completed during my residence program in France last June. The piece presents the concept of “space” much better. I chose the church as the

This piece is using the structure of electric motors to achieve a

main background because of its significance as a symbol of divinity

circular motion. There is no beginning or end in circular concepts; it’s

and mystery. It’s a perfect rendition of an unknown future.

a continuously repeated motion. Through the grain and the direction of the wood, the shrillness of the sound varies as the machine rotates

Working With Light, Time and Space

clockwise or counterclockwise; different sounds are also made as the wood becomes worn down during each rotation. The sound is like

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My fascination with architecture occupies my mind with many struc-

tural ideas. Giving structure to time and space is similar to an archi-

another sense perhaps it is these imperfections that gives the image

tect’s measure of space. My work is like capturing beautiful moments

a soul. Many light effects can be done by post-editing or by animation,

of light within a segment of time. I believe that once you layer these

however the essence of the photo seems to disappear with computer

segments, what you get can be uniquely different and captivating.

editing. Perhaps natural errors and unexpected elements can be a delightful surprise.

Creating With Photography Things that Trigger Inspiration?

Traditional sculptures use solid and tangible materials, however the difficult part is, using the camera lens to capture time and space and

Minimalist music composer Philip Glass once used a single note to

create a sculpture through a photo. Combating difficulties can be a

compose a piece of music. The music is extremely simple and different

perfect arena for creativity. Automated measurements of light in vari-

than pop or rock music; there is no musical transition and no emo-

ous environments are also unpredicted factors that can create excit-

tional ups and downs in his music. It’s very similar to my work.

ing and innovative expressions and pieces.

Interesting Moments?

Working in the dark is scary sometimes; there are different obstacles in every environment. At the church we had to setup the tripod whilst avoiding church benches. In other environments there are a lot of junk or abandoned things that add imperfections to the shot, however in

83

TA I WA N TA L E N T S

「如果覺得難，就是不夠愛。」 時尚攝影師 蘇益良 專訪 (前編) “If you can’t overcome obstacles then you don’t have enough passion.” – Fashion Photographer Su Yi Liang Interview (part one)

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攝影棚剛搬到內湖，和Abook是走路十分鐘的 鄰居，蘇益良新的工作室裡塞滿了陽光，白牆 與簡單的格局，刻意讓擺設簡單，風格與印象 中總是穿著一身黑的蘇益良不大一樣。以前的 工作室很暗，因為眼睛怕光，常皺眉頭，「暗 對我來說是一種安全感，很舒服，像冬天包在 棉被裡的感覺。」

Su Yi Liang just moved his studio to Neihu, ten minutes away from Abook Studio. The white walls and simple structures of his new space make it bright, yet warm and inviting. Su insists on a simple décor which is contrastingly different than his usual self (he usually dresses in mysterious black attire). His former studio lacked sunshine because he’s sensitive to light. Su says, “darkness to me is safe and comfortable, much like sleeping under my blanket on a cold winter night”

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如何會從事攝影？

更好就好，專心一點在自己的工作上，留意現在的趨勢，在這個行業很多人都 是可敬的對手，但不要用仇恨的方式去相處，要更加油，每個人自有自己的山

小時候鄰居開設沖洗店，父親一直很認真拿著相機拍照並且拿去沖洗，當時我高中輕

頭。在看別人的作品時，會想知道為什麼他要做這樣的東西。國外攝影師我喜歡

狂愛玩，沒有考大學，考前出了車禍，過著撐拐杖找計程車司機賭撞球的生活，鄰居

Guy Bourdin和Helmut Newton，在他們的畫面裡面可以看到奇特的幻想，以及一

便詢問是否有興趣到暗房學習，那時對人生並沒有規劃，所以順著就走上了這條路。

點點反諷用詼諧幽默的方式表達冷眼旁觀這個世界的態度。平常我不太看別人的 作品，是因為容易被影響，所以比較多看以前的作品。

十八歲時，看了某篇報導，覺得當攝影師好像很厲害，生活美好、美女如雲，所以就 透過親戚跟攝影師蔡榮豐學習，當時在工作室裡，看著剛辦完攝影展的大型作品，因

夢想與現實該如何平衡？

為好奇心的驅使，想要知道這些奇妙的作品到底是怎麼拍的。之後慢慢進入這個行 業，一直不斷發現其中的樂趣，越作越喜歡，後來自己接一些案子，有錢什麼都拍。

攝影師的堅持和妥協是要可以轉彎與改變的，因為這是一個商業工作。 當然商業或非商業一定都會有所堅持，但是堅持的點不應該是完全固定不動的，面對

到二十五歲時，自我審視了一下，想想未來，並試著從事其他行業，但尋找不到

人的社會，作品必須要被欣賞或是購買，很多時候要懂得轉彎與改變，不懂改變是一

其他更有趣的事情可以滿足自己的生活，於是下定決心要繼續從事攝影工作。

件很危險的事情。不景氣對這幾年台灣的攝影工作環境有一些影響，中國影像的崛

後來進雜誌作in-house，先是是egg雜誌、儂儂，然後是美麗佳人，後來開始自由接

起，台灣經濟的衰退，再加上臺灣一直對影像都不重視，在台灣從事影像工作本來就

案，然後進了Man’s Uno雜誌，然後就是現在。

是一件辛苦的事情，這幾年有慢慢好一點。

人生的價值在於花多少而則不在賺多少，曾經付出多少花多少才是人生的價值。

從事攝影多年，最難忘的是？ 對雜誌的想法是？ 從二十二歲開始拍照到現在，其實每一次的拍攝都可以在裡面學到東西，不一定是拍 照，對人處世也是。

與雜誌合作，要拍攝出自己想要的東西，並突破一般的幻想，就會需要空間，

特別難忘的，是大人物慈善攝影展時拍小燕姊，覺得她任何一個動作一個眼神，都在

而這空間該是自己協調爭取來的，不能滿足於作一樣的東西，如果遇到不喜歡的東

表達她所經歷的東西，有一種奇妙的感動與力量。

西，就要想辦法解決。而雜誌本身要有自己的個性、宗旨和原則，負起領導與教育的 責任，不應該只是市場取向，拍得整本像百貨公司型錄一樣，雖然現實上很難，但雜

年輕時帶著作品去范可欽的公司面試，當時創意總監說：「等你有真的攝影作品再來

誌不應該因為不景氣而傾向迎合客戶，還是要保有自己的品味與風格才好。台灣曾經

找我，這是造型作品。」也是令人很印象深刻的一段。

是兩岸三地視覺流行影像方面最優秀的，但現在卻漸漸被趕過了，滿足市場並不是全 部。

拍攝過程中最享受的是？ 我 自 己 最 喜 歡 的 雜 誌 是 日 本 講 談 社 出 的 Huge，每期都訂，他是非常高端流行的 拍攝中一連串的整個流程，其實每一部份我都很喜歡，不一定會最開心，但每個

男性生活雜誌，營造出讓人嚮往的生活，內容無論是版型、閱讀線，都明確流暢

細節都可能會獲得一些經驗，尤其是遇到困難阻礙、與工作夥伴意見相左時，

一致，主題性明顯，是一本很理想的流行雜誌。

更能學到更多。

給年輕攝影師或是熱愛攝影的朋友的建議或一句話 拍攝中互動的小技巧？ 我覺得一個人必須要認清自己，好好思考自己要的到底是什麼，很多人說攝影要 身為攝影師，要很會觀察。

靠天份，但很多後天的事情也是可以被調整的，吃這行飯並不是只有會拍照就可

拍攝中感覺被攝者累了，可以用檢查螢幕的「假動作」讓他在原地休息，同時繼續偷

以了，許多時候溝通技巧與解決危機的方式來的更重要。對這個行業的熱愛有

偷觀察他在休息時的神態，就能發現被攝者不同的一面；面對動作僵硬或是緊張的對

多少，會決定你在這個行業能做出多少成績，如果對自己擁有的長處認識足夠，

象，可以設計一連串的動作，比如說連續走動跑步，或是轉圈，藉此把身體放鬆，同

對攝影的熱愛有多少，足夠的熱愛就會在遇見困難時想辦法，去努力動腦筋，

時建立他的信心。拍照是一種信任，透過鏡頭可以感覺到被攝者有沒有自信，沒有安

如果覺得很難，就表示不夠愛，夠愛的話，什麼都不難。

全感時會非常明顯。

國內有無欣賞的攝影師？ 現在面對多許多後生晚輩的競爭，去想是沒有用的，只能想自己，把自己做到

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（後編待續）

PHOTOGRAPHY : 蘇益良 MACK UP : 念慈李專業噴槍彩妝 HAIR : Flux Pro Team 服裝: Joyce TEXT : Linter

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Why photography?

One of the more unforgettable experiences for me lately was during the shoot of Chang Hsiao Yen for the “Celebrity Photo Exhibition”. I found a magical strength in her every move and

There was a photo lab in the neighborhood when I was young and my father went there fre-

gesture, which is so profoundly formed by her life experiences and years in the industry.

quently to develop the photos he took. During my rebellious years in high school I’d spend all my time playing pool and hanging out. I didn’t apply for college because of a car accident I was

When I was young, I took my work to Fan Ke Chin’s company; the creative director back then

in at the time. I really had no life direction at all. Fortunately, my neighbor asked me whether

said to me something that I would never forget. He said to me, “come back when you have a

or not I’d like to apprentice with him in his lab. I said yes.

real piece of work. What you have here is merely great makeup and fashion styling.”

When I was eighteen I read an article that really opened my eyes. It made a photographer’s

What’s most enjoyable about taking photos?

life seem so interesting, with all the pretty girls and luxury around. Therefore, my relatives introduced me to photographer Cai Rong Feng and I started an internship with him. Seeing

I find delight in every part of photography. Some shoots may not be fun but you can always

all the blown up photos in the studio really motivated me. I wanted to know how those photos

take away something or gain some sort of experience, especially when you are met with an

were taken and my interest just exploded. As I slowly delved into the industry, my love for

obstacle and your colleagues come to help out. During those times you learn the most.

photography grew. I became a freelancer and took any cases that came to me.

Tips for interaction during photoshoots?

When I was twenty-five I actually tried various other jobs, but really couldn’t find anything that interested me as much as photography did. It was then I made up my mind to make a career

As a photographer, your observation skills are crucial. For example, when you notice the mod-

out of it. I started off working in-house for “egg Magazine”, “Bella Magazine”, and “Marie

els are getting tired, you can let them take a rest and then observe them from afar. You can

Claire”. Then I went back to freelancing again until I took a job with “Men’s Uno”. Years have

usually see another side to them that can be later translated into the photo. When faced with

passed since then and here I am now with my own studio.

models that are more nervous or physically rigid, you can get them to move, to run, or to turn in circles. It builds their confidence and relaxes the body. Photography is an act of mutual

Any unforgettable experiences in your career?

trust; confidence shines through the camera but so does insecurities.

I started taking pictures when I was twenty-two and even now I learn something new from

Any photographers you admire?

each shoot. It may not be technical things I learn, but rather humanistic experiences and human relationships in general.

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There’s a lot of competition between photographers now, however it’s useless to think too

much about it. I believe we should just focus on ourselves and try to do the best we can.

art, and visual creation. Now we’re falling behind. Satisfying market needs isn’t everything.

There’s no need to be hostile or hateful towards your rivals. When I look at other photographers’ work, all I want to know is the motivation behind their piece. Outside of Taiwan, my

My favorite magazine is one I subscribe to called “Huge” (published by Kodansha in Japan).

favorite photographers are Guy Bourdin and Helmut Newton; I am able to discover bizarre

This is a men’s magazine featuring high-fashion topics. The magazine is able to present an

fantasies in their photos and the aloof attitude they demonstrate to the world using sarcasm

attractive and interesting lifestyle to its readers; the content is also clear and easy to read. It’s

and humor. It’s very interesting.

a great fashion-trends magazine.

How can one find balance between dream and reality?

Any advise for young photographers or those who love photography?

A photographer’s persistence and compromise needs to be flexible because commercial pho-

I believe people should get to know themselves and think clearly about what they want in life.

tography is a business. Of-course every photographer has things they are persistent about,

Many people think that you are either a born-with-it photographer or you are not, but actu-

whether it be during commercial or non-commercial shoots, but being too insistent on some-

ally the efforts you make in life are crucial as well. It’s not enough to just merely know how to

thing and not listening to opinions can be a very dangerous thing. The economic downfall has

press the shutter. Communication skills and problem-solving abilities are also important. Your

had an effect on Taiwan’s photography industry. With the rise of the Chinese economy, it has

passion for this business is what determines your success. If you know yourself well enough

been hard for photographers in Taiwan. It’s getting slightly better though in recent years.

and have enough passion for it all, then you will be successful.

Life value lies with how much you’ve spent, not how much you’ve earned.

To be continued

What’s your take on the magazine publishing industry?

To do what you want to do and to photograph in the way you like requires independency from magazine companies; this independency you must fight for and sometimes compromise. If you are met with something you don’t like, you have to find ways to solve the problem. The magazine itself needs to have it’s own style, theme, and principle. It must be a leader and encompass educational elements and social responsibility. Magazines shouldn’t just be about satisfying the client or merely following market trends. Taiwan used to be the hub for fashion,

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ABOOK GAZE

古 城 的 美 好 現 在

PhotographY : Kate Linter 林特

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來稿登錄

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Photography / 陳有德 Model / 彭思奇 / 陳泰樺

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Photographe : Kelly Jill http://www.kellyjill.com/ Creative Direction : Angela Chen / Alex Liu Make Up Artist : Tommy Chiang http://www.tommyartist.com/ Hair Stylist : Eros Liu Designers : Jamie Yu / Tracey Wong / Sherry Guo Models : Kirsten / Samira / Kayla @Lizbel Agency

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PhotographY : Jess Rigley Make Up : Cymone Young Hair : Vimal Chavda Models : Dasha / Danni

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2012黛安芬觸動創意設計大賽 台灣冠軍作品

TRIUMPH INSPIRATION AWARD

2012全球最有創意內衣! 英國二度得冠

2012黛安芬觸動創意設計大賽 國際冠軍作品

2012黛安芬觸動創意設計大賽 國際季軍作品

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2012黛安芬觸動創意設計大賽 愛爾蘭冠軍作品

2012黛安芬觸動創意設計大賽 國際亞軍作品

2012黛安芬觸動創意設計大賽 奧地利冠軍作品

2012黛安芬觸動創意設計大賽 瑞典冠軍作品

2012年全球前三大最有創意內衣於黛安芬觸動創意設計大賽

2012年黛安芬國際(Triumph International)以「Dragons & Butterflies」

(Triumph Inspiration Award)上海國際決賽誕生了!

為年度競賽主題。上海國際決賽晚會由知名MTV台主持VJ陳正飛 (Andy Chen)及美麗的朱珠(Zhu Zhu)聯手主持開啟這場龍與蝶東西交流

來自英國的Sian Whitefoot以作品Ecliptic Renewal，10月19日晚在

的盛會。 大會邀請Vogue 義大利總編 Franca Sozzani,英國時尚設計師

上海擊敗來自其他30位國家選手，奪得2012Triumph Inspiration Award

Matthew

(黛安芬觸動創意設計大賽；以下簡稱TIA)國際決賽冠軍；亞軍則由來自

、新生代知名時裝設計師王汁(Uma Wang)、國際知名攝影師夏永康

意大利的Alla Polozenko以名為Dragon & Butterfly Infinity作品獲得；

(Wing Shya)、及國際知名模陳碧舸(Bonnie Chen) 擔任2012國際決賽

季軍是由來自匈牙利的Luca Beke以名為Reborn Warrior作品奪得。

評審。

2012 TIA競賽主題為「Dragons & Butterflies」；冠軍作品Ecliptic

黛安芬觸動創意設計大賽(Triumph Inspiration Award)創始於2008年，

Renewal的設計靈感來自於蝴蝶第一個蛻變週期，設計者在微距攝影時拍

是全球最具規模、獎勵服裝設計學子的年度重要國際大型設計競賽。

到了蝴蝶卵透亮球體被白色絲縈厚厚包裹著的畫面。它啟發了作者將此

為這項國際性常態年度大型設計競賽盛事，自2008年第一屆競賽開始，

結構帶到創作設計，作品運用了鮮亮且引人注目的綠色，白色蕾絲花邊

黛安芬國際即透過www.triumph-inspiration-award.com官網平台，

和串珠代表了蝴蝶優雅的特質。

完整分享活動現況給全球網友。

Williamson、華人世界知名女歌手兼演員莫文蔚(Karen

Mok)

2012黛安芬觸動創意設計大賽(Triumph Inspiration Award)2011全球 超過2500位來自31國頂尖設計學院的設計新秀參與角逐國際冠軍寶座。 今年台灣冠軍由台南應用科技大學服飾設計管理系的黃郁惠同學獲得， 黃同學以「龍蝶嬉戲 The Elegant Dragon Flirts with Sexy Butterflies」 為名的作品代表台灣參加上海決賽。雖然黃同學沒有晉入前三名，但黃 同學開朗活潑的個性，一到上海馬上就與多位各國選手打成一片，獲得 不少友誼。黃同學說 : 參加國際決賽是擴大視野一次很好的觀摩機會。 從初賽起學校系主任林主任、及台灣黛安芬的設計師及工作人員都不斷 幫我打氣，給我很多的經驗指導。代表台灣參賽本身就是一項殊榮， 再到上海認識來自其它國家的設計師更是一次非常難得的經驗，我很 珍惜也很感謝黛安芬舉辦這項大型的競賽。 未來我更要加強自己的語文 能力及設計專業與視野，持續朝設計師之路邁進。

全球冠軍除了可獲得由黛安芬國際設計團隊專案製作作品於2013年限量 發行全球外，更可獲得高達15000歐元的獎學金鼓勵。亞軍與季軍則將 分別獲得10000及5000歐元獎學金。

四位在國際展露頭角的華人評審 莫文蔚/Bonnie Chen/夏永康/Uma Wang

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由攝影師及導演林炳存發起，以時尚攝影出發，提供與時尚及攝影，藝術等 相關情報資訊，以及各類影像作品的交流平台。旗下有 ABOOK 和 OOOMag 兩本電子雜誌。 Abook Studio 提供平面、動態的影像服務。 ｜平面攝影｜平面影像設計｜平面製作物規劃｜造型設計｜藝人經紀｜ 活動宣傳｜前製編劇發想｜ MV 廣告拍攝｜音樂製作｜動態剪接｜後期製作｜ www.ABOOK.cc was founded by renowned fashion photographer and director Joshua Lin. Created as a platform for fashion, photography, art, and cultural news, ABOOK also publishes its own E-magazines ABOOK and OOOMag. ABOOK Studio is a vertically integrated media production house with complete services in print and video production.

We provide services in: A&R Consulting | Creative Concept and Scriptwriting | Video Production: MV & CF | PostProduction Editing | Print Photography | Fashion Styling | Graphics & Print Design | Artist & Model Management | Music Composing & Licensing | Events Marketing

WWW.ABOOK.CC

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