The Case for a Ligurian Getaway

From the lush and luxe shores of Portofino to the bustle of Genoa that has built up around marvels of art and architecture, there is so much to love about the Liguria region of Italy. After my experience there this past October, I’m here to tell you to add the Italian Riviera to your itinerary the next time you visit Italy.

I must admit, I feel a little shy about writing about Italy for Italian-Canadian readers. But from my outsider’s perspective it seems to often be overlooked for places like Rome, Tuscany, Venice, and so on. And thanks to the resounding success of the most recent season of The White Lotus, bookings for Sicily are going to be a hot commodity. If you want to travel a path that’s more under the radar (read: less crowded and touristy) in 2023, Liguria has so much to offer.

One of the first words that comes to mind when I think of Genoa is layers. With first settlements dating back to pre-Roman times in the 4th, or 5th century B.C., it is a city that has endured the rise and fall of numerous empires and political dynasties, even when that has meant rebuilding after destruction (both the Second Punic War and World War II were particularly unkind). Throughout it all, Genoa’s crucial position as a port on the Mediterranean has remained, and as such it has seen many seasons where it flourished.

These layers are most apparent when strolling Genoa’s streets - from winding mazes of medieval alleyways (or caruggi to the locals), to the grand Strade Nuove of the 16th century, many marvels of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture coexist. Bring your comfiest shoes - walking is a great way to see what is a relatively steep city at times. From those old alleyways, to the shops of Via XX Settembre or to the Porto Antico to take in the seaside and some modern developments, including the Aquarium of Genoa.

If you love historic art and architecture, Genoa is worth visitingespecially for the Palazzi dei Rolli, the gilded and magnificent palaces built by the wealthy merchant class of the late 16th and 17th centuries. There are 100 of these marvels in Genoa, and 42 of them have been designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

There is no better time to experience Genoa’s palazzi than to visit during the biannual Rolli Days, when these residences of the Genoese aristocracy between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries (many of them privately owned now) are open to visitors. It’s an incredible opportunity to discover the beauty and magnificence of this golden period in Genoa’s history, while enjoying all that the city currently has to offer.

Beyond Genoa, the Liguria region has so much to offer, so I encourage you to take a day (or three) to go a little further afield - just 35 kilometres - to Santa Margherita Ligure. Surrounded by green hills ripe with olive trees and vineyards and situated on the Gulf of Tigullio, it’s a beautiful, relaxed, seaside spot. The harbour is lined with a rainbow of historic pastel buildings and palm trees, serving up charm in abundance.

From there, the famous village of Portofino is either a short ferry ride or a longer walk, with both options being very scenic. I don’t think I’ve ever felt more glamorous than I did approaching the legendary port by boat, the soft breeze off the Ligurian Sea rippling through my hair, like so many icons of the past and present have done. It is quite the experience.

Wherever you are in Liguria, food is sure to be an exciting part of your journey. This region is of course home to pesto, which seems so

For more details:

Aquarium of Genoa https://www.acquariodigenova.it/en/

Palazzi dei Rolli https://www.visitgenoa.it/en/rolli

UNESCO World Heritage Sites https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1211/

Rolli Days https://www.visitgenoa.it/rollidays-online/

Liguria region https://lamialiguria.it/en/start-from-here/

Il Genovese https://www.ilgenovese.com/

Friggitoria San Giorgio https://sangiorgiofritto.eatbu.com/?lang=en

Manuelina Ristorante https://www.manuelinaristorante.it/ appropriate given the green hills that surround the region. I can promise that I have never quite had pesto as delicious as what was freshly made for me at Il Genovese in Genoa.

Wandering along the Porto Antico one afternoon, I was thrilled to stumble upon the tiny Friggitoria San Giorgio, serving up calamari fritti, panissa (chickpea fries) and other delicious things in paper cones. It was the perfect little lunch for strolling along by the water on a sunny afternoon, followed by a spritz at one of Genoa’s many inviting cafés.

A standout for me amongst Ligura’s culinary richness is Manuelina Ristorante in nearby Recco. It is well-known for good reason - especially for regional specialties focaccia di Recco with cheese and pansoti (pasta stuffed with ricotta and greens) with walnut sauce. Months after dining there, I’m still thinking of both of these dishes. If anyone is making them in Toronto, I would love to know. Or perhaps I just need to book a flight.

It’s tempting, isn’t it? Lounging seaside, sipping on a spritz or glass of wine, perhaps indulging in a plate of the most delicious pansoti. Or getting a peek inside the most gilded and exclusive palaces of Genoa’s Republican age. Dreamy, to be sure. All of these reasons, and more, to add Liguria to your itinerary the next time you visit Italy.

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