EMBER INDIAN KITCHEN

It has been five years since Amin and Farida Sunderji opened their well-loved Ember Indian Kitchen in Steveston’s scenic London Landing neighbourhood. Food, conversation, and laughter have always been integral to Amin and Farida; therefore, the opportunity to own and operate a restaurant seemed like a natural fit. They returned from early retirement in 2017 to offer their home community of Steveston a firstclass Indian dining experience.

The couple met and married in Uganda, their country of origin. In 1972 Ugandan dictator Idi Amin banished Asians who held British passports from the country, giving families only 90 days to leave. “It was a very traumatic time,” says Amin. He was relieved that Canada warmly welcomed Ugandan refugees.

Their daughter Saleema Sunderji is very proud to be a first-generation Canadian. She mentions, “We brought Ugandan cuisine to Steveston.” The Sunderjis previously owned a furniture store for over 35 years. They designed the elegant restaurant with the assistance of Saleema, who has followed in her parents' footsteps; she and here husband own Yaletown Interiors.

The bright space features high ceilings adorned with black and white chandeliers and pendant lights, which creates an exotic ambience. Beams made from reclaimed wood suspend light fixtures. Two magnificent oversized black and white prints are well-chosen representations of the two continents that come together in Ember’s cuisine. One photo captures a felucca boat on the Nile River, while the other showcases a gorgeous peacock, an Indian symbol of grace, joy, beauty, and love.

Situated close to the boardwalk overlooking Shady Island and the Fraser River, you may spot eagles and herons as you dine.

The restaurant seats 60 guests indoors and 35 on the patio, which was recently enclosed with a roof and plexiglass half walls; this creates an airy aesthetic while offering an outdoor dining experience. Amin says an outdoor heating system is next on their wish list and hopes to have it in place this year.

Ember is a lovely space to host events such as anniversaries, birthdays, and other celebrations. They will happily create set menus for parties. “We will plan a quality event while considering a group’s budget,” remarks Amin.

Saleema mentions, “Ember’s staff have ridden side by side with my parents and are an important part of the restaurant’s success.”

The business name salutes the popular African Indian method of grilling over charcoal embers. Ember’s specialty is African Indian food, spotlighting regional dishes from northern and southern Indian cuisine. Grilled meats take centre stage alongside extremely popular dishes such as butter chicken.

Patrons explore African Indian food through appetizers and entrees such as the signature coconut chicken curry, lamb vindaloo, masala halibut, prawn biryani, chicken tikka and channa masala. Both naan and roti are made on-site in the restaurant’s gas-burning tandoor. Amin says, “Tandoori dishes have become very popular in the last six months.”

New protein dishes are now offered, including rock cod biryani and lamb tikka. Saleema says, “Increasingly, people are looking for healthy menu options.” Gluten-free and vegetarian selections are also featured on the menu.

Ember is a destination that attracts many diners, including families with young children. Amin comments, “Kids love Indian cuisine. They are adventurous eaters.”

Farida works magic in the kitchen while Amin makes personal connections by circulating to diners’ tables. In addition, he oversees front-ofhouse operations, ordering and staffing.

During the pandemic, Amin created a large menu and posted it outdoors. It was a marketing tool that attracted attention. The menu also evolved during this time to focus on increased takeout orders.

When restaurants were mandated to close, some of Ember’s loyal customers ordered from them as often as two to three times a week to help support their favourite restaurant. Amin says, “We are extremely grateful to all our customers for their steadfast support during COVID-19. When businesses reopened, many customers made a point of coming to Ember as their first choice.”

Metro Vancouver Dine Out takes place each January. During this time, they often introduce new items to the menu. This event, along with Open Table, exposes the business to many new diners who come from across the Lower Mainland.

Some tourists visit Steveston specifically to dine at Ember. Amin says, “It is common for American tourists to google ‘Indian food’ and detour to Ember on their way to the border.”

“After celebrating our fifth anniversary this past September, I can certainly say it’s been a labour of love for my wife and me for many reasons. We enjoy feeding people and appreciate the continuous support from the Steveston community. Our goals have superseded just serving the community; we are so grateful to have built lifetime friendships at Ember,” says Amin.

Story by Sarah Gordon, February 2023