YAM Magazine May/June 2025

ISSUE 96 MAY/JUN 2025

yammagazine.com

YYJ’S SIZZLING MUSIC SCENE

25

things we love best about our hometown

CITY ISSUE COOL STYLE

URBAN MYSTERIES

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Vancouver 604.632.3300

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BED: 4 | BATH: 7 | 7,927 SQ.FT.

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967 Osprey Drive, Duncan

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1935 Murray Road, Sooke

127 Heritage Creek Drive, Cowichan

9-4525 Wilkinson Road, Saanich

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0.46 ACRE LOT | WATERFRONT

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Sean Farrell

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The Wildman Group 250.893.9976

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25 THINGS

MAY/JUN

CONTENTS

CITY ISSUE

10 EDITOR’S LETTER 13 HERE + NOW

WE LOVE ABOUT VICTORIA

Farming in the heart of the city; all-Canadian long-weekend essentials for Victoria Day; great gardening gear; what you need to know about farmers’ markets; a premium natural skin-care line made right here in B.C.; a chef-approved addition to your pup’s diet.

Plus the YAM contest!

All the cute, quirky and beautiful things that make us happy to live in our Island paradise.

By YAM Staff

PAGE

32

18 IN PERSON

Ska Fest founder Dane Roberts brings the tunes to make people happy and get dancing.

By David Lennam

22 LIFE AT HOME

A romantic fairy-tale house mixes old, new and a young couple’s pretty pastel vision of the future.

By Nessa Pullman

46 STYLE WATCH

Bright colours and blossoming flowers add Italian flair to spring’s romantic fashion.

52 Push. Pull. Lift. Carry. Go! If you’re looking for a challenging new workout, versatile CrossFit may be just what you need.

By Joanne Sasvari

By Emily Bruser

On the Trail of a Boozy YYJ Mystery It’s one of the city’s most hotly debated topics: Who invented our signature cocktail, the Shaft?

By Linda Barnard

62

Better Brows If you want to look perfectly groomed, start with your eyebrows. Our primer will help.

By YAM Staff

8

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025

65 FOOD + DRINK

We take a deep dive into some of the greatest ingredients from the waters around Vancouver Island. Plus: Our guide to pairing wine with seafood, a taste of spring asparagus and what’s happening on the local dining scene.

52

56

Styled by Janine Metcalfe

76 DESTINATION

56

Planning to spend your travel dollars in Canada this year? Consider the European vibe and historic charms of Quebec City.

By Claudia Laroye

80 SCENE

At The Coda, Al Smith and Christina Morrison have built a venue for great live musical sound. Plus: Culture Calendar.

By David Lennam

82 PERSPECTIVE

Look closer at this splash of Victoria’s watery history.

By Joanne Sasvari

Boldly evolved.

Unmistakably Audi.

The All-New 2025 Audi A5 and Q5.

Step into the future of Audi and choose your adventure: the all-new sleek, athletic 2025 A5 sedan, where aggressive style meets dynamic performance, or the all-new Audi Q5 SUV, blending turbocharged power with electric excitement. Whether you crave the refined luxury of a sedan or the versatile thrill of an SUV, Audi has you covered. The choice is yours—drive the evolution.

2025 Audi A5 available from

2025 Audi Q5 available from

$61,095

$80,295

†

†

Audi Victoria | 250-590-5849 | audivictoria.com

Audi Nanaimo | 250-585-2834 | audinanaimo.com

Vehicle images for illustration purposes only. Retailers are free to set individual prices and charge administration fees, which may change the APR or the price of the vehicle. † Available at price based on the 2025 Audi Q5 TFSI-e SUV / 2025 Audi A5 Sedan with MSRP of $76,900 / $57,700 and includes freight & PDI ($3,395). Doc ($495), environmental levy ($100), tire levy ($33), registration, insurance and similar taxes levied on the manufacturer (if charged by the retailer) extra. Certain conditions apply. Offers expire December 31st, 2025 and are subject to availability and may be cancelled or changed without notice. See Audi Victoria for details. “Audi”, “Vorsprung durch Technik”, and the four rings emblem are registered trademarks of AUDI AG. ©2025 Audi Canada. To find out more about Audi, visit Audi Victoria. DL4991427 #31246 Audi Nanaimo DL4991424 #40379

EDITOR'S LETTER

A CITY OF MYRIAD PERSONALITIES (Left) Charlotte Paul, CIM, Associate Portfolio Manager, Assante Capital Management Ltd.

Your Financial Partner in Times of Change Shine Financial Group is a unique wealth management firm that specializes in working with women during and after times of transition, specifically divorce and widowhood.

A

s I’m writing this, I’m waiting for my best friend to come over from the mainland to spend the day hanging out with me. Her only instruction? “Just show me your favourite things.”

Oh, sure, but how do I choose? Where do I start?

The thing is that Greater Victoria isn’t just one city. It’s 13 municipalities and dozens of neighbourhoods, each with its own character and attractions. Victoria is a government town, a major tourist destination, a genteel small city with a British vibe, an artsy enclave, a thriving business community and an eco-conscious place, the first city in Canada to receive the Responsible Tourism Institute’s Biosphere certification.

It’s a bustling city that has everything you need in an urban centre. It’s also a place of stunning natural beauty, rich with parks, lakes, hiking trails and beaches, as well as some of the country’s most spectacular show gardens and a surprising bounty of family farms. It’s gracious old manors, grand modern architecture and cozy little vintage houses. It’s the aspirational wealth of Uplands and the tragic poverty of that heartbreaking stretch of Pandora.

It’s cozy pubs and glamorous waterfront restaurants, some of the country’s best cocktail bars and traditional afternoon tea rooms. But it’s also Canada’s oldest Chinatown, one of its best Indian restaurants and a buffet of exceptional flavours from Syria, the Philippines, Ghana and other far-flung corners of the world. And it’s a city that is almost nerdy about its bread, its pastries, its seafood and especially its coffee (always ethically sourced and locally roasted, of course).

It’s hippie sandals and high-end hiking boots, tweedy jackets and designer raincoats, oversized linen shirts and chunky fisherman knits. It’s little free libraries and stacks of books from the sales tables at Munro’s. It’s live music at The Coda and pro soccer at Starlight Stadium. It’s just spending time with the hummingbirds and bumblebees in your own backyard.

So tell me, with so much to choose from, which Victoria should I show my friend?

Joanne Sasvari, Editor-in-Chief

Charlotte Paul, CIM, Associate Portfolio Manager 250-590-0603 cpaul@assante.com shinefinancial.ca Assante Capital Management Ltd. is a member of the Canadian Investor Protection Fund and the Canadian Investment Regulatory Organization.

10

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025

NICKLAUS WALTER/STOCKSY

editor@yammagazine.com

“STYLE IS A WAY TO SAY WHO YOU ARE WITHOUT HAVING TO SPEAK.” — Rachel Zoe

Beautiful furniture Expert design advice Unparalleled customer service Quality Canadian & U.S. suppliers Locally owned & operated

564 Yates St • 250.386.7632 • luxevictoria.ca

LINEA

Pure Linen Jacquard from Italy Styled and sewn by St. Geneve in Vancouver Machine washable

PUBLISHERS Lise Gyorkos Georgina Camilleri EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Joanne Sasvari DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Jeffrey Bosdet LEAD GRAPHIC DESIGNER Janice Hildybrant ASSOCIATE GRAPHIC DESIGNER Kelly Hamilton ADVERTISING CONSULTANTS Deana Brown Jennifer Dean Van Tol Cynthia Hanischuk Brenda Knapik ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Rebecca Juetten MARKETING & EVENTS CO-ORDINATOR Lauren Ingle FASHION EDITOR Janine Metcalfe COPY EDITOR Lionel Wild CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Linda Barnard, Emily Bruser, David Lennam, Claudia Laroye, Nessa Pullman CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Mary McNeill Knowles, Michelle Proctor CONTRIBUTING AGENCIES Getty Images p. 15, 17, 55, 63, 64, 70, 71, 75, 76; Stocksy p. 10, 62, 63, 64, 65, 74

GENERAL INQUIRIES info@yammagazine.com LETTERS TO THE EDITOR editor@yammagazine.com SUBSCRIBE TO YAM subscriptions@yammagazine.com

WELL MADE, BEAUTIFUL, FUNCTIONAL

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107-2360 Beacon Avenue Sidney, BC | 250.656.0011

ADVERTISING INQUIRIES sales@yammagazine.com ONLINE yammagazine.com INSTAGRAM @yam_magazine FACEBOOK YAMmagazine

ON THE COVER Dane Roberts and the School of Ska, p. 18 Photo by Jeffrey Bosdet

Published by PAGE ONE PUBLISHING 580 Ardersier Road, Victoria, B.C. V8Z 1C7 T 250-595-7243 info@pageonepublishing.ca pageonepublishing.ca Printed in British Columbia by Mitchell Press.

Ideas and opinions expressed in this publication do not necessarily reflect the views of Page One Publishing Inc. or its affiliates; no official endorsement should be inferred. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement, and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not the publisher. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in all or part, in any form — printed or electronic — without the express permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for unsolicited manuscripts and photographs.

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ADVERTISE IN YAM MAGAZINE YAM is Victoria’s lifestyle magazine, connecting readers to the distinctive lifestyle and authentic luxury of the West Coast.

For advertising info, please call 250-595-7243 or email sales@yammagazine.com.

BC 12

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

HERE + NOW FARMING IN THE CITY It’s the first day of tomato week at The Victoria Edible Nursery at Mason Street Farm, and owner Jesse Brown has been busy restocking flats of Black Krim and Sungold starts.

His non-spray, non-GMO, no-till urban farm in North Park, just blocks from City Hall, is both an abundant oasis in the heart of the city and an important champion for the Island’s food security. It grows over 150 types of vegetables, edible perennials and herbs, to eat and to grow. (Its weekly salad greens subscription is a hot commodity.) On this late April day, both the bees and the customers are buzzing, while neat rows of seedlings bask in spring sunshine, a promise of delicious things to come. victoriaediblenursery.com

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 13

HERE + NOW

THE MAY LONG: CANADIANA EDITION If you ask us, summer can’t come soon enough.

Welcome its sunny days with this all-Canuck guide to lazy long-weekend essentials.

A Candy-Stripe Patio Umbrella

Rain or shine, you need a great patio umbrella, and Quebec-based Midtown Umbrellas delivers. They offer everything from bijoux beach umbrellas to modular pergolas.

The Wooden 2 tilt umbrella is a chicly versatile model that comes in three sizes and 31 colours, including this patriotic candy-apple red stripe. midtownumbrellas.ca

Those Patio Lanterns

If you’re looking for some patio lanterns to light up your life, check out the stylish ones by Ontario-based Hauser. We love this retro-looking portable lantern with its variabledimmer LED light and Bluetooth-operated speaker, perfect if you’re gonna be the first to dance. hauserstores.com

A Classy Glass

Sure, you can serve rosé all day in a disposable plastic cup, but wouldn’t it be so much nicer in this elegant stemless wine glass? Even better, it’s mouth-blown and handmoulded at the Dougherty Glassworks studio in Aldergrove. doughertyglassworks.com

A Terrific Throw

You likely already know and love Victoria’s Anián for its great shirts and other functional clothing. Now they’ve introduced the Palermo towel — a simple, elegant and versatile piece made from a soft, post-consumer recycled cotton blend. Use it as a throw, a wrap, a blanket or, yes, a towel all summer long. anianmfg.com

A Cooler Cooler

Whether you’re heading out on a picnic, bringing produce back from the farmers’ market or just serving drinks on the back deck, you need a good cooler. Calgary-based KAILANI makes premium-quality, insulated soft and hard coolers in a huge range of sizes and colours — we especially love this Canada-themed one. kailanioutdoors.com

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025

GROOVY GARDEN GEAR

When it comes to gardening, the difference between it being a satisfying pastime and a gruelling chore often comes down to your tools and accessories. These items will help.

MARKET TIME

Bring your cooler and get shopping for local farm produce, baked goods, crafts and more.

I

f you’ve been inspired by recent world events to get serious about supporting local, one of the best ways you can do that is by visiting a farmers’ market. The money you spend goes directly to the farmer or producer whose wares you’re buying, plus there’s often live music, kids and dogs running around, and friends old and new to catch up with. Here are some of our local favourites; for more info, visit bcfarmersmarkettrail.com.

A Really Great Hose If you are tired of hoses that crack, leak, kink, freeze or otherwise let you down, then you need Goodland’s small-batch, made-inCanada Everlasting Garden Hose.

It comes in three lengths (25, 50 or 100 feet), with brass fittings and gorgeous colours of patina green, silvered tan or warm grey. Each is printed with an inspiring inscription — and did we mention it has a lifetime warranty? hellogoodland.com

A Comfy Clog No one knows the pain of being on their feet all day like nurses do, and these classic medical clogs by Italian brand Calzuro offer comfort, style and a lightweight design that is both ergonomically designed and sterilizable, with a no-slip sole and massaging arch support. Plus they come in a rainbow of colours and sizes, making them the best way to step out in your garden. calzuro.ca

Super Secateurs Make pruning a pleasure with the Tobisho A-Type secateurs.

Hand-forged in Japan from highquality Aogami #2 Hitachi Blue Paper Steel and with meticulous attention to detail, these are sharp, comfortable, well-balanced and, basically, the ultimate in garden tools. Available from Gardener’s Kit. gardenerskit.com

A Handy Tote Haul all your tools and supplies in Lee Valley’s thick, tough, nylon garden tote bag. It has two big inner pockets and a row of plastic loops to corral things, as well as nine outer pockets and an elastic cord to keep everything under control.

Never lose your pricey secateurs in the weeds again. leevalley.com

SATURDAYS Moss Street Farmers’ Market, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Celebrating its 34th season this year, this is Victoria’s must-visit market for farmfresh local and organic produce, baked goods, handmade crafts and so much more. It is open year-round, but in May it moves outdoors and adds dozens of vendors to its lineup.

Duncan Farmers’ Market, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Take a road trip to the Cowichan Valley for this yearround outdoor market that sprawls through the streets of downtown. Then why not visit some of the valley’s wineries on the way home?

SUNDAYS Metchosin Farmers’ Market, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

A true country market surrounded by bucolic farmlands, everything here is homemade, handmade or homegrown. Open from Mother’s Day to the last Sunday of October.

WEEKDAYS

Salt Spring Saturday Market, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.-ish

Esquimalt Farmers Market, Thursdays, 4:30 to 7:30 p.m.

Make a day of it and catch the first ferry over to take in this bountiful market.

In addition to terrific local produce, you’ll find arts and crafts by internationally acclaimed artisans. Note that the island also has a food-only market on Tuesday afternoons.

This is the 11th year for this “food-first” market at Memorial Park, where you can pick up dinner from one of the hot-food vendors and enjoy live music while the kids run wild in the onsite playground.

Other Saturday markets: James Bay Community Market, Goldstream Farmers’ Market in Langford, Sooke Country Market, the North Saanich Market and the Peninsula Country Market at the Saanich Fairgrounds.

Other summertime sunset markets: Gorge Farmers’ Market, Mondays, June through September; Oaklands Sunset Market, Wednesdays in July and August; Oak Bay Night Market, Wednesdays, from June to September; Sidney Street Market, Thursdays, June through August.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 15

A COLLAGE, NOT A MIRAGE Could this be, at long last, the madein-B.C. skin-care solution that ticks all the boxes?

O

SEE US BEFORE YOU GO SHOP THE ISLAND’S LARGEST SELECTION OF HERSCHEL LUGGAGE, BAGS AND ACCESSORIES.

Beacon Avenue, Sidney 250-655-7732 16

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025

lga Roberts likes to talk about the “importance of self-nurturing,” and emphasizes: “Skin care should be part of a whole wellness plan.” Also part of that plan?

Collage Beauty, the new made-in-B.C. luxury botanical skin-care line she co-founded with her business partner Marlene Schluter.

“There are not a lot of luxury brands in Canada that are botanical and clean,” Roberts points out. “A lot of times people feel like they are giving something up when they go natural, and we want to change that.”

Officially launched in December, the first three products in the Collage range comprise Canvas (a serum), Composition (moisturizer) and Gesso (balm), with more products to come. The products are formulated in Kelowna, with team members located in Squamish, Victoria, Vancouver and, in Roberts’s case, the Cowichan Valley.

They are water-based, infused with natural botanicals and made with powerful active ingredients such as hydrating hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, which, similarly to Vitamin C, enhances your skin’s lipid barrier but is less light-sensitive. The products are designed to be easy to use, with or without other products, for all skin types and all genders, and are packaged in elegant glass jars. “Accessible luxury,” Roberts calls them, noting that “bundle pricing” makes them more affordable. “They are sustainable, clean, simple, inclusive.”

Both Roberts and Schluter brought their own experiences to the creation of these products — Roberts’s former career as a flight attendant in the drying airplane environment was a “huge, huge inspiration” for the need for a truly moisturizing product, and Schluter as a cancer survivor was highly attuned to the needs of sensitive skin.

“This is really about slow wellness,” Roberts adds. “I really wanted to create something beautiful for my customer.” collagebeauty.com

Andrew Maxwell

Say Ciao to Gourmet Chow When two local chefs decide to turn their culinary skills to dog food, it can only mean good news for your pup.

Peter Zambri and D’Arcy Ladret first met at Sooke Harbour House, where Zambri was chef (he’s now proprietor of Zambri’s restaurant) and Ladret was a teenage dishwasher (he’s now a food technologist with over 25 years of experience in developing consumer packaged goods). Over the years, they’ve become close friends. They are also dog owners, who were dismayed by the lax regulations and poor ingredients that go into most pet food.

So they cooked up something special called BellaChow Pet Nutrition.

The first product they’ve released is the Superfood Gravy For Dogs, a super-premium dog-food supplement formulated with all-natural ingredients (savoury bone broth, nutrient-rich liver, Arctic krill and essential fruits, vegetables and mushrooms) and enriched with probiotics.

Designed to be a nourishing and flavourful daily addition to your dog’s regular diet, it’s available as a one-time purchase or by subscription at bellachow.ca.

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Contest Alert!

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• Two adult admissions to the Royal BC Museum • T wo adult admissions to an IMAX® Victoria documentary film

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This exciting gift has a value of $175. To enter the contest, visit yammagazine.com or scan the QR code. The contest closes June 20.

Good luck!

E.&O.E.: Sotheby’s International Realty Canada is Independently Owned And Operated.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 17

IN PERSON

School of Ska

Dane Roberts loves making people happy. That’s just what his festival does.

By David Lennam | Photo by Jeffrey Bosdet

D

ane Roberts is the Victoria poster boy for ska and reggae — and has been since he started putting on shows while he was still at Mount Doug High.

As artistic and executive director of the five-day Victoria Ska and Reggae Festival, the ageless 48-year-old is like one of those guys at a carnival keeping a dozen plates spinning. None of them ever smash because Roberts visualizes every detail before a ticket is even sold.

“I think it’s kind of fun because you’re always planning in your head,” he says. “If you do this, then this will lead to that and you know what the show might look like and feel like at the site. I know in my head what that will be like.”

PARTIES IN THE PARK Roberts was, quite literally, schooled in ska, but not as a musician.

He produced the inaugural Victoria Ska Festival in 2000 to fulfil a work-term requirement leading to his bachelor of arts degree in education.

“My work-term adviser said, ‘You can do this festival as part of your work term, but if the festival tanks you will not get credit for the work term.’ The work terms were pass or fail so there was a lot on the line with producing that festival, both financially and academically.”

That first fest was a single day of music in Market Square. Free shows all day. Ticketed concerts at night. And, given what was on the line for Roberts, Pressure Cooker was the fittingly named headliner.

The homegrown ska-punk band had broken up and were no longer playing, but Roberts, a veteran of those memorable all-ages shows in the ’90s, knew they were a band so beloved in this town he had to reunite them.

Somehow, he managed to negotiate them down from the $10,000 fee they were seeking (easily half the entire festival budget) to a deli tray. But it was a really good deli tray.

“It was amazing and what the start of the festival needed,” recalls Roberts.

Since then, Victoria Ska and Reggae Festival has grown into the longest-running festival of its kind in North America. It’s a long way from that 14-year-old organizing giant parties in the park, then dozens of gigs through his Enigmatica Entertainment.

This year’s festival, which runs June 18 to 22, could be the biggest yet.

Roberts is expecting 16,000 attendees with early ticket sellouts now the norm.

The playlist of artists has always been about sharing genres — ska and reggae with punk, hip-hop and anything else that gets you moving. This year it’s hip-hop icons The Pharcyde, fabled punk outfit Propagandhi and Jakobs Castle (formed by the son of Sublime’s legendary frontman Bradley Nowell). More than two dozen acts lend support for shows at

Ship Point, the Victoria Curling Club and Wicket Hall.

“I just love people,” he says. “I like making people happy, seeing the joy on their faces. It makes me happy to see other people happy and see them succeed.”

GOOD DANCE VIBES With his roaring laugh and that rolling billboard of a Ska Fest van, Roberts is unmissable and irreplaceable as orchestrator of the local scene. But there were times when the running-a-festival business proved precarious. And years when it almost sank.

“In the early days, it was such a hustle. I remember I’d say, ‘Oh, Ska Fest is coming up, I’d better make sure I have a full-time job.’ Back in the day when we’d talk about ‘break even’ that meant barely any money to pay us. We’d just cover expenses,” Roberts says.

Persistence and passion have kept Ska Fest a summer mainstay for 26 years.

“We always try to make sure we work within our means. And I think the reason the festival succeeds is because of the love everyone has for each other. It’s not about money because, if it were, then we would’ve been done in two seconds.”

As host of CFUV Radio’s Caribbeanflavoured Pepperpot show for two decades, Roberts weaned his festival audience, introducing them each week to the diversity of reggae and the full spectrum of ska — from its Jamaican roots to two-tone, thirdwave and every musical spin-off imaginable.

Regulars might call the festival our annual love-in with a dance-if-ya-wanna vibe.

Roberts says it’s an excuse for a lot of people who haven’t seen each other to get together.

“You want bands that excite people to come, but it’s not the be-all and end-all of this event. People just like to come. And, you know, it’s a family vibe, but it’s not like the type of thing where there’s mascots scaring everyone and super-lame music, totally dry, know what I mean? It’s where everyone can have a good time. It does have a bit of an edge, but it’s not a bad one.”

He talks about good vibes and good energy and how the music instills the audience with a cherished unity.

“The sound of reggae and ska and rocksteady and this kind of music attract this certain vibe of person, and because of that, when you just put that out there it attracts a positive energy. Put that together and it creates an audience that is just so much love all in one place.”

That, he says, is why artists like performing here. Not being paid a fortune, not arena-sized crowds. “When they get down to Ship Point and they feel the energy of the audience and the organizers, it’s something you can’t copy,” Roberts says. “They know the passion is there for the festival and once they feel it they’re like, ‘Oh, I know why people like this.’ ”

“We always try to make sure we work within our means.

And I think the reason the festival succeeds is because of the love everyone has for each other.”

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A SKA/REGGAE PRIMER

Dane Roberts offers five albums that are a good intro to his festival and its music. “[They’re] albums people should listen to that I like, not necessarily my favourites,” he says.

THE SKATALITES Greetings from Skamania Style: Classic/traditional ska

THE SPECIALS The Best of The Specials 2008 Style: Two-tone ska

ROCKSTEADY The Roots of Reggae Style: Rocksteady

BARRINGTON LEVY Here I Come Style: Reggae/dancehall

Beautiful classic jazzy ska music with Cuban music influences. A good listen to get an idea of how ska first sounded when the genre was born.

Roberts: “We call The Skatalites’ style of ska first wave or traditional ska. Some of my favourite songs off that album are ‘Trip to Mars’ and their cover of ‘I Wish You Love.’

There are a lot of bands today that play in this style [such as] Western Standard Time Ska Orchestra.”

A great example of a “two-tone ska” band with Black and white members; their musical style blends British pop/rock and Jamaican ska/reggae Roberts: “This album has all of people’s favourites all in one album. In 2008 we had Neville Staple & his Band, who was in The Specials until around 2008 when we brought him. In 2014 we brought Lynval Golding from The Specials, who played with The Aggrolites at Ship Point.”

Compilation album featuring some of the world’s greatest rocksteady artists including Leroy Sibbles of The Heptones, Ken Boothe and Stranger Cole, who have all graced the stages of Ska Fest.

Roberts: “Rocksteady was the genre developed in Jamaica that came after ska, but before reggae.

Rocksteady was more influenced by American soul and R&B.”

Barrington Levy is a living legend and one of Jamaica’s greatest singers. He played the Victoria Ska and Reggae Festival in 2007 and 2014.

Roberts: “We also had him do a club show in 2011. The first track of this album called ‘Here I Come’ is one of the most sampled reggae songs, especially with drum ‘n’ bass heads. He has a distinctive singing style and often sings ‘Shidily Shidily Whoa Seen!’ “

J. COLE Forest Hills Drive Style: Hip-hop

This conscious rapper talks about real topics that affect a lot of people. It’s uplifting music for when you may not be feeling at your optimum. (Conscious rap is a sub-genre of hiphop that focuses on social issues and challenges the status quo.)

Roberts: “I discovered this artist from a Vancouver Island men’s soccer team I was refereeing that was playing it in their pregame warm-up.”

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LIFE AT HOME

A FAIRY-TALE ROMANCE A 1920s home is updated to be functional today while preserving all its century-old charm and character.

By Nessa Pullman | Photos by Mary McNeill Knowles

M

ost modern house renovations focus on updating the outdated, but for this 1920s heritage home, the goal was to do the exact opposite. A young couple, looking for a home to start a family in, stumbled upon this charming character house that was reminiscent of the fairy tales they read as children.

The house’s original quirks and characteristics gave it an instant feeling of home, but a few adjustments would be needed to make this a suitable place to raise a family.

So the couple brought in Kyla Bidgood, creative director at interior design firm Bidgood, to elevate the space while preserving this enchanting residence.

“By looking at it, you could tell this was a home with many years of love and care,” says Bidgood.

“We wanted to take that ethos and push it forward.”

Even though some structural adjustments would be needed, the team at Bidgood was careful not to take away from the home’s original charm.

“I like to think of renovations as conversations between past and present — you can introduce fresh ideas and modern function, but the soul of the home is still there, anchoring everything,” says Bidgood.

SWEET AND NOSTALGIC Walking through the space, it was evident that the previous homeowner wanted to preserve the home’s timecapsule esthetic, where frilly curtains and floral prints decorated every inch. “It was really sweet and nostalgic, but felt too stuffy and cramped,” says Bidgood.

When the team was conceptualizing the new design to give it a fresh look, she turned to the new homeowners as inspiration. “They are such kind and cheerful people that bring a sense of warmth with them,” says Bidgood.

“The bones of the home matched their personalities to a T — like the coziness you feel when you read fairy tales.” To tie in this concept, Bidgood decided on a two-toned pastel colour theme in yellow and blue, which flows through the main areas of the house. Adding this colour theme to the new design created a playful and youthful element that coincided with the more traditional aspects of the house.

With a design concept on board, it was time to look at the more structural adjustments needed.

The most obvious one was the kitchen.

With its traditional small footprint and dysfunctional layout, it would need to be expanded to fit the needs of a growing family. To do this, Bidgood removed the existing door that led to the outdoors and bumped the wall back a few feet to allow for more space.

 The focus during this renovation was to build on from the home’s original design.

Bidgood kept the original red oak flooring and traditional casement windows, giving the foundation of the house a classic look to expand upon.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 23

“Though an enlargement was needed, we didn’t want it to feel disproportionate to the rest of the rooms in the house,” says Bidgood.

With more space to work with, Bidgood repositioned the appliances to be more accessible and added a large kitchen island for prep work. The new millwork was designed with a traditional English countryside feel — including Shaker cabinets, rounded cupboards and ceramic knobs. To balance these traditional elements, Bidgood opted for a Vancouver Island marble to be used on the countertops and backsplash, which adds a fresh look to the nostalgic space.

“It was important that the new kitchen felt like it belonged … like it had always been there,” she says.

Positioned off the kitchen was a dining nook that served as an informal eating area, which Bidgood decided to keep original, barring a fresh coat of paint and updated hardware to coincide with the new kitchen millwork. “We discovered an old, fold-down ironing board between the two rooms, which we kept,” says Bidgood. “It’s these little features that make up the unique charisma of this home.”

Left: In the dining nook, the original built-in cabinetry inspired the design of the new millwork, including the subtle curved detail of the undercabinet, which Bidgood recreated in both storage cabinets in the new kitchen. Below: The kitchen’s design was created around the vintage-inspired Lacanche range that the homeowner found in the early stages of the project. Bidgood designed a traditional overhanging hood fan to complement the character of the range.

“I like to think of renovations as conversations between past and present — you can introduce fresh ideas and modern function, but the soul of the home is still there, anchoring everything.”

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Bidgood added a slat feature to the cabinet door fronts, an homage to the ventilation systems for stored food that were typical to the era when the home was built. Other delicate details with vintage flair include the brass pull handles from Rejuvenation and wood peg hooks from Lee Valley.

A well-used countryside kitchen was the concept behind the redesign, so Bidgood chose a deep castiron sink from Kohler and a traditional bridge faucet from deVOL to create the look. Both the faucet and pull handles are unlacquered brass that will develop a patina over time, adding to the lived-in feel of this home.

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“The architecture had so much charm and whimsy that it was fun to design within that framework.”

CHARM AND WHIMSY In the formal dining room, only a few surface-level updates were needed, such as a new gas insert in the fireplace and modified light fixtures. Bidgood chose a vintage-inspired wallpaper to decorate the walls and painted the coved ceiling with a pop of blue to accentuate the architectural details. “The architecture had so much charm and whimsy that it was fun to design within that framework,” says Bidgood.

“It gave us permission to lean into playful details and embrace a bit of nostalgia.”

Cosmetic updates were the main focus in the dining room, where Bidgood opted for a checkered tile by Fireclay on the hearth to match the blue-painted ceiling in Benjamin Moore’s “Watercolour.” New skirted shades by Alice Palmer & Co. were added to the original base of the dining-room pendant. The English-inspired sprig-patterned wallpaper is colourway C, by Adelphi Paper Hangings.

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The custom-made bathroom vanity uses the same Vancouver Island white marble and embossed petal ceramic knobs by Lee Valley as the kitchen.

The claw-foot tub, wall-mounted faucet, inset medicine cabinet and sink skirt all add charming details reminiscent of the English countryside.

“... we were always looking for small ways to add traditional touches through thoughtful design elements.”

Resources Builder: Ingrained Woodworking Interior designer: Bidgood Engineer: Skyline Engineering Plumber: Can-Do Plumbing

Some more substantial changes were needed for the main bathroom, where they gutted the space to add a full bath and shower. Traditional elements such as a claw-foot bathtub and a chair rail tile moulding were incorporated to keep the endearing feel of the home. “During the redesign, we were always looking for small ways to add traditional touches through thoughtful design elements,” says Bidgood.

Looking back on the earlier stages of this project, Bidgood says: “We wanted to create the home of their dreams within this storybooklike house. But in reality, this home ended up becoming the physical extension of this family’s kindhearted nature.” Though some adjustments were made, this home continues to pay homage to the traditional craftsmanship that has lasted over a century.

Now, a young family will raise their children in a home that has raised many before them, as they continue to create everlasting memories fit for a fairy tale.

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25

things

By YAM Staff Illustrations by Janice Hildybrant

we love about Victoria

HERE’S WHAT MAKES US GLAD TO LIVE HERE RIGHT NOW.

Let’s be honest. We have so many people from around the world singing Greater Victoria’s praises that we’re almost a little embarrassed to add to the chorus.

Among other accolades, Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards has named Victoria the world’s best small city and its friendliest one, too.

Good Housekeeping’s Family Travel Awards called Victoria its Must See City, USA Today listed us in its top 10 Coolcation Destinations and, according to the Global Destination Sustainability Index, Victoria is also North America’s most sustainable destination.

Not bad, right? But what all those visitors see is the picture-postcard city, with its beautiful gardens, charming architecture and excellent weather (most of the time, anyway).

And while we love all that stuff, too, we also appreciate the sometimes ordinary, sometimes quirky features of a place where we actually live.

Here are the 25 things we’re loving the most about our city right now.

Our otter friends

Every city has its urban wildlife — Toronto its thuggish trash pandas, New York its pizza-stealing rats, Vancouver its knife-wielding crows — but Victoria is uniquely blessed with peacocks, bunnies, the occasional cougar and deer, so many deer, the bane of every gardener’s existence.

But our favourite furry friend? The river otter, as fierce as it is adorable.

If you’re lucky, you can see a romp of otters holding hands in the Inner Harbour or hanging around most of the city beaches.

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Our mellow mascot Since he emerged from the underwater depths six years ago, Pacific FC’s mascot Stewie the Starfish has become a friendly and very, very purple presence at Starlight Stadium. The littles — of whom there are many at each Canadian Premier League soccer game — love him, and now they can even join his club. Stewie’s Kids Club was launched last December to give kids aged three to 12 an affordable way to enjoy the games while instilling in them a love of footie and the local team. Go, Tridents!

Our big love for bees

Victoria is all abuzz about our pollinator pals, especially the busy bees that produce honey in beehives everywhere from neighbourhood backyards to the Fairmont Empress and the family-friendly Country Bee Farm. To encourage bees to stick around, this city has become a paradise of pollinator gardens, ranging from the 10 planted by local Butterfly Rangers to the massive 1,100-square-metre one planted in 2022 at the Victoria International Airport, a joint effort led by FED Urban Agriculture. Now that’s sweet.

Our groovy garlic guy

If you think garlic is just that bland stuff from the supermarket, Derek Powell would like to have a word. He’s been producing garlic for the last decade or so under the name West Coast Garlic, and now grows up to 170 different strains on the Saanich Peninsula. They range from sweet, mild, softneck varieties to the spicy, complex, hardneck Porcelain, Music or Red Russian. Powell is happy to tell you which is better for pesto, salad or roasting alongside your leg of lamb. Just ask him at his regular stall at the Moss Street or Esquimalt Market.

Pro tip: Pick up a jar of his bespoke garlic powder while you’re there. Chef’s kiss.

Our steamy situation

We simply cannot get enough of saunas in this town, whether it’s the HAVN floating sauna in the harbour, Ritual Nordic Spa right downtown, the cozy Wildwood Saunas at Bilston Creek Farm or the one that’s probably over there in your neighbour’s backyard.

Now there’s a new one steaming up the place: This spring, Oak Bay Beach Hotel is opening a sumptuous sauna with a glass roof that offers beautiful starlight views.

Our gooiest grilled cheese

We love a good toasted sandwich, especially when it’s luscious with melty cheese, so we are always ready for a trip out to Sidney and The Farmer’s Daughter. This heavenly cheese shop/wine-and-cheese bar serves up four different grilled cheese sandwiches, including the gloriously gooey triple-cheese melt with herb butter and honey drizzle. Best enjoyed with a wine flight like the Great Gatsby lineup of sparkling wines.

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Our time warp

Not just a jump to the left and a step to the right, there is, apparently, an actual time warp in Greater Victoria. Multiple sources report experiencing a sort of vortex on Shelbourne Street near Hillside Mall (according to rumour, it’s most likely around Pearl Street). Drivers heading along Shelbourne have suddenly found themselves on an unpaved country road surrounded by farm fields as they might have done a century or more ago — then just as suddenly found themselves back on the modern, paved, city street. Mind you, it apparently only happens between 2 and 3 a.m. on Sunday mornings in October when the driver is the lone occupant in the vehicle, so …

Our artful past and present

The streets of Victoria are a gallery of Coast Salish public art that’s free for everyone to enjoy. All around the Inner Harbour and throughout downtown you will find works by both established and rising Indigenous artists. Some, like Thunderbird House, are hard to miss; others, like Brianna Bear’s lamppost hummingbirds, need a keen eye to spot. Among the artworks of note: Chris (IceBear) Johnson’s “Four Winds” sculpture of Mother Earth on Mermaid Wharf; the “Two Brothers” Spirit Poles in Centennial Square, by Lekwungen master carver Clarence (Butch) Dick and his son, Clarence Dick Jr.; “Woven Together,” a colourful installation on the exterior of the Johnson Street “Woven Together” parkade, by Musqueam artists Susan Point and her son Thomas Cannell; the etched-glass Inner Harbour marina gates by John and Lajah Warren; the powerful and moving mural of sisiyutł, the Two-Headed Sea Serpent, by Kwakwaka’wakw and Nuuchah-nulth artist Alex Taylor-McCallum for the Cool-Aid Society on Pandora Street.

Our perfect puzzles

During the pandemic, when we were all spending far too much time doomscrolling, Tinka Robev and Andrew Azzopardi distracted themselves by making beautiful, heirloomquality jigsaw puzzles that also showcased Canadian artists. Among them is artist Sharon Lam’s whimsical depiction of Victoria itself, with more than 20 pieces representing classic landmarks including a Victoria Harbour Ferry, totem pole, peacock, orca and juggler. Now what they called Puzzle Lab has become so successful, it recently opened a new gallery and store on Government Street.

Our love of words

We love the printed word in Victoria, as evidenced by our terrific local bookstores (including Munro’s, Russell Books, Bolen’s and Tanner’s in Sidney), our more than 850 little free libraries and the growing Victoria Festival of Authors in October. This is also a great city for writers, including novelists Esi Edugyan, Jean Paetkau, Robert Wiersema, Tara Moss and Kit Pearson, playwright Mark Leiren-Young and poet Steven Price, among many others.

Our floral bouquet

From its grand public gardens to its hanging baskets, its springtime cherry blossoms and the hellebores that bloom in the depth of winter, Victoria is a bower of blossoms for much of the year. This March the annual Greater Victoria Flower Count celebrated its 50th birthday and tallied up an impressive 44 billion blossoms, most of them (30,328,028,034, to be exact) in the City of Victoria itself. But perhaps our favourite fleurs are the ones we find at the honour farmstands, the lilacs in spring, dahlias in fall, which are all ours for a handful of spare change.

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Our cool sounds

Live music may have hit a sour note in other towns, but not here in Greater Victoria. From our pubs to The Coda, a new live-music venue upstairs from Hermann’s Jazz Club, there’s always someone cool playing something hot.

And then there are the music fests that have us grooving all summer long. Among this year’s highlights: an extended Symphony Splash! in the Inner Harbour, kicking off the Victoria Symphony’s 85th season, the brandnew Victoria Folk Music Festival on July 5 and Rifflandia, one of Western Canada’s longest-running large-scale music and arts festivals, which brings its epically eclectic lineup of names big and small, local and international, back to Victoria in September.

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Canada’s first chocolatier, Charles (Candy) Rogers, began making his confections in 1885 in the back of his Victoria grocery store. That Rogers’ Chocolates is still selling its creams and squares 140 years later would be enough chocolatey goodness for most towns.

But we also have The Chocolate Project, where David Mincey curates and sells chocolate from more than 60 bean-tobar artists from around the world, plus Sirene Chocolate from local bean-to-bar specialist Taylor Kennedy, as well as chocolatiers RockCoast Confections, Roxy’s Chocolate, Chocolat & Co., Terrible Truffles and Uncouth Chocolate.

Our little community parks

Wherever you are in Greater Victoria, you are never far from a public green space. There are 48 regional, provincial and federal parks from Sooke to Sidney, while the City of Victoria alone has more than 138 parks and open spaces. The most famous is the vast and amenity-rich Beacon Hill Park, but we especially love the dozens of small, quirky community parks tucked into odd little spaces, such as the Begbie Green triangle between Shelbourne, Begbie and Pembroke streets, the very urban Bay and Government Parkette or the tiny Adanac Green strip. Our favourite, though, might just be Summit Park just off Finlayson near Cook, where you will find a traditional Garry oak ecosystem, the rare yellow montane violet and, come May, thousands of camas flowers in bloom.

Our call for bubbles

We almost don’t want to share this exciting news because we want to keep it all to ourselves, but there is a place in town where you can press a button and someone will bring you a glass or, if you prefer, a bottle of Champagne. That place is the new Rabbit Rabbit wine bar on Herald Street, where two tables feature the Champagne buttons.

The bubbles, by the way, pair beautifully with chef Billy Nguyen’s proper English chips.

Our pinball wizardry

Buzzes, bells, lights a-flashing — wizards can play the silver ball and enjoy a terrific slice of pie at one of Canada’s largest pinball arcades, courtesy of the folks at Quazar’s Arcade. At Pinhalla Pinball Pizzeria, 33 machines await wizard-wannabes, along with thick, chewy, irresistible Sicilian-meets-NewYork-style pizza and specialty cocktails like the Pinhalla Shaft.

Our historic temple

The Tam Kung Temple, perched on the top floor of a building in Chinatown, is the oldest Chinese temple in Canada. It was originally built in 1876 as a shrine for a wooden statue of the sea deity Tam Kung, which was brought to Victoria by a Hakka prospector during the 1860s gold rush. In 1912, the wooden structure that housed it on Fisgard Street was replaced by the current four-storey brick building designed by architect Wilfrid Lord Watkins Hargreaves. In February, the temple was named a National Historic Site, joining Victoria’s Chinatown and the Chinese Cemetery at Harling Point. For a large-scale, 24/7 view of the cultural artifacts within the temple, check out the very cool mural on the side of the building.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 37

Our best comeback (now serving brunch)

The Bengal is back! Long one of the city’s favourite watering holes, this graceful and airy lounge at the Fairmont Empress shuttered when the property was renovated in 2017 and Q Bar opened in its stead. This spring, The Bengal returns, this time as a breakfast restaurant. We’ll still miss that curry buffet, but if new executive chef Isabel Chung is overseeing the breakfast bennies, we’re happy to join the lineup.

Our perky parking app Our waterfront walks

With its inlets, islets, watersheds, beaches, bays and the extensive Gorge Waterway, Greater Victoria has an astounding 3,460 kilometres of shoreline, about the same distance as the crow flies from Vancouver to Toronto. Much of this diverse landscape is walkable, along paths, trails, boardwalks and breakwaters. For an easy stroll with spectacular water views, check out the Dallas Road Waterfront Trail, Westsong Walkway, Victoria Inner Harbour Trail or Ogden Point Breakwater.

We know, we know: Getting around this place isn’t always easy, and neither is finding parking.

But you have to admit that the ParkVictoria app makes it a whole lot simpler and is also a little bit adorable with that cute “beep-beep” letting you know that time is up. Plus it will politely only charge you for the time you actually parked in a spot and allow you to extend your stay by a few minutes if you’re running late. Consider it the antidote to road rage.

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Visit a living museum in Canada’s oldest Chinatown.

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Our feisty first lady of art

If it wasn’t true, you couldn’t make up a story like Emily Carr’s. Born in 1871 to a prosperous Victoria merchant family, she became, over her life, a painter, explorer, teacher, animal lover, writer and boarding-house landlady.

She showed her art alongside the Group of Seven, who called her “one of us,” hung out with the modernists in Paris, was at home among the towering totems of Haida Gwaii and won the Governor General’s Literary Award for her first book, Klee Wyck. She died in 1945, represented Canada posthumously in its first participation at the Venice Biennale and is memorialized along with her dog Billie and monkey Woo in an Inner Harbour statue called Our Emily.

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VICTORIA’S LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 39

Our loveliest loo

There are many reasons to fall for Janevca Kitchen, the new restaurant at the painstakingly renovated Rosemead House in Esquimalt.

There’s the vintage furniture, the spreading tree in the dining room and chef Andrea Alridge’s exceptional wood-fired cooking. And then there are the absolutely stunning restrooms.

Downstairs, in a pretty tiled space, you’ll find mahogany-lidded toilets painted with flowers.

But the real showstopper is the floor-to-ceiling art piece of a Renaissance gentlewoman with LED strip lighting by Grifflyn Electric spelling out a quote from Shakespeare’s Henry VIII: “O beauty till now I never knew thee.”

Our glamorous grocery

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If you consider grocery shopping a chore, you clearly have not been picking up your pasta and produce at The Market Garden in Vic West. It’s quite possibly Canada’s most romantic grocery store. In an ambience all decked out with art, antiques, chandeliers and a baby grand piano, you can find beautiful arrangements of gourmet chocolate, olive oil, pasta, tinned fish, spices, cheese, fancy fruit and other delicacies, including a cellar of non-alcoholic products. The best day to visit?

Christmas Day, when it becomes a deliciously chic and festive party.

Our dance moves

You’d think that having a fleet of pickle boats that performs a daily water ballet would be enough for one small city. But no.

Victoria jetés well above the crowd thanks to Dance Victoria, a non-profit charitable organization that both brings the world’s best dancers to town and develops new ones right here.

Among other things, it commissions brand-new works, leads the 10-day Dance Days festival in late January and awards Canada’s largest annual prize for emerging and independent dance artists. With support like this, it’s little wonder that Victoria is hometown to renowned hoofers like the famous choreographer Crystal Pite.

Our coffee connoisseurship

To the rest of the world, Victoria may be known for afternoon tea, but locals know that what we really crave is a cuppa joe — preferably locally roasted from ethically sourced beans and carefully brewed by one of our great independent coffee shops. For a small city, Victoria is extraordinarily well caffeinated with an abundance of roasters, including: FIX!, Bows, Black Bear, Mile Zero, Discovery, Caffe Fantastico, 2% Jazz, Esquimalt Roasting Company, Level Ground and the OG, the cozy, cash-only, family-owned Yoka’s, which has been roasting beans in North Park since 1983.

BUSINESS PROFILE

CADBORO BAY OPTOMETRY Next-level eye care

A Dr. Samantha Bourdeau

t Cadboro Bay Optometry, optometrists Dr. Samantha Bourdeau and Dr. Kelsey Ford provide exceptional eye care with a personal touch. Located in the heart of Cadboro Bay, our clinic offers comprehensive eye exams, personalized vision solutions and a wide selection of high-quality eyewear.

Dr. Bourdeau and Dr. Ford are dedicated to helping you maintain optimal eye health with the latest in diagnostic technology and treatment options. Whether you need routine eye care, specialized dry eye treatment or stylish glasses, trust our experienced team to deliver professional, compassionate care for you and your family. Visit us today!

102-2580 Penrhyn Street | cadborobayoptometry.ca | 250-360-2229

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 41

BUSINESS PROFILE

PHILLIPS BREWING & MALTING CO. Locally craft-brewed and 100% Canadian-owned

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hillips Brewing & Malting Co. has become a staple in Victoria’s local beverage scene, offering a wide array of craft options that celebrate both quality and community.

Whether you’re a craft beer enthusiast, in search of non-alcoholic options or craving a refreshing craft soda or mocktail, Phillips has something for everyone.Their lineup includes beloved beers like Blue Buck, Tilt Lager, a variety of Dinosours, IPAs (like their new Gorilla Mode brand) and more alongside their innovative IOTA non-alcoholic beers. Phillips Soda Works offers flavours like Spitfire Ginger Ale and Intergalactic Root Beer. For those seeking spirits, Phillips’ Sanctuary Whisky and Stump Gin, produced under Fermentorium Distilling, deliver a uniquely local twist on classic favourites.

This summer, Phillips is bringing back the Phillips Backyard Music Festival, a highlight of Victoria’s event calendar. Scheduled for two thrilling weekends, this annual Festival combines live music with a vibrant community

atmosphere. Hosted at the Brewery’s location on 2010 Government Street, the Festival kicks off with Tilt Weekend (July 4 to 6), featuring acts like Cold War Kids, Unknown Mortal Orchestra and G-Eazy. Reverb Weekend (August 8 to 10) will follow with headliners such as The Roots, Phantogram and Peach Pit. With food trucks, craft beers and a lively setting, it’s the perfect way to enjoy Victoria’s summer while supporting local talent.

As Phillips celebrates its 24th anniversary, it remains committed to craftsmanship, environmental sustainability and fostering a strong sense of community. Their dedication to producing locally crafted, Canadian-made beverages shines through in every product they offer, whether it’s a refreshing beer, a spirited cocktail (or cheeky mocktail) or a hand-crafted soda. Phillips continues to innovate with new seasonal offerings, including Dinosour Berry Lemonade, Solaris Raspberry Wheat Ale and Phillips Playlist Party Pack. These fresh brews are designed to be shared and enjoyed in the spirit of summer fun.

For a taste of Victoria’s finest and to be a part of their upcoming events, visit Phillips Brewing & Malting Co. at their Tasting Room and Beer Shop located at 2010 Government Street, Victoria. Learn more about the brewery and their seasonal releases at www.phillipsbeer.com or follow them on Instagram @phillipsbeer.

Don’t miss out on the Phillips Backyard Music Festival — get your tickets at www.phillipsbackyard.com and follow @phillips.backyard on Instagram.

Phillips Brewing & Malting Co. — crafting community, quality and unforgettable experiences.

2010 Government Street phillipsbeer.com

BUSINESS PROFILE

VARIETY – THE CHILDREN’S CHARITY OF BC Essential support transforms lives for kids with disabilities

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hirteen-year-old Coltrane is bursting with ideas, songs and trivia. His mom, Jen, describes him as “super-duper-ultra-mega rare”— a one-of-akind gem. But as a toddler, Coltrane struggled to be understood. He had so much to say but wasn’t able to express it. “It was heartbreaking,” Jen remembers. “I felt I was failing him as a parent because I couldn’t translate his sounds into words.”

After doctor visits and assessments, Coltrane was diagnosed with autism and apraxia of speech before he was four years old. However, Jen’s own health issues made working difficult. And when Coltrane started school, his government funding for therapy decreased.

“In times like these, people turn to their families and communities for support,” says Jen. Friends recommended she apply to Variety – The Children’s Charity of BC for funding to cover Coltrane’s speech therapy.

Helping families access the vital care For nearly 60 years, Variety has supported kids across British Columbia with disabilities and complex health needs. Especially as economic uncertainty increases, the cost of care is out of reach for many families; public health waitlists can stretch for years. Variety BC fills that gap, providing access to life-changing support — right when it’s needed.

With Variety BC’s help, Coltrane receives ongoing speech therapy, which has made a world of difference.

“Within the first couple of years, his vocabulary expanded exponentially,” says Jen. Since then, she and her two sons have made their home in Comox, where Coltrane has developed a strong relationship with his speech pathologist.

Variety BC’s impact reaches beyond speech therapy.

They fund private autism and psychoeducational assessments so kids don’t have to wait years for a diagnosis.

Their tutoring and tuition bursaries provide access to specialized education suited to each child’s learning style.

Variety also funds essential medical equipment, such as manual and power wheelchairs, adaptive tricycles, hearing aids, standing walkers and van conversions.

In 2024 alone, Variety BC raised over $11.3 million, supporting more than 15,000 children across B.C. with over 8,300 individual grants. All this is possible through a community of individual change-makers, and their legacy has a ripple effect.

Getting the right support, especially at a young age, doesn’t just help today. It is instrumental in building independence, health and wellbeing as children grow up. Today, Coltrane continues to work on social communication with his speech pathologist — skills that are helping him succeed in school and build friendships.

Variety BC helps families afford speech therapy and other life-changing support. Davyd, who has cerebral palsy, received a grant for adaptive seating.

info@variety.bc.ca | @varietybc | variety.bc.ca

BUSINESS PROFILE

CHEF ISABEL CHUNG Fairmont Empress introduces its first female executive chef

Isabel Chung, executive chef, Fairmont Empress

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t’s a new era of culinary eminence at Fairmont Empress under the leadership of executive chef Isabel Chung. The iconic hotel is proud to have her lead the next culinary chapter set to transform the hotel’s dining experiences. With a career as vibrant as her dishes, Chef Chung is ready to leave her mark on Canada’s Castle on the Coast — and the city’s flourishing food scene.

Born and raised in Calgary, Chef Chung’s culinary journey began at Delta Bow Valley. Her journey with Fairmont took flight in Bermuda, where she fell in love with the brand.

She has since worked across various Fairmont properties, including Whistler, Seattle and Hawaii. She now returns to Canada, bringing with her a dedication to sustainability and mentorship.

Chef Chung’s philosophy is simple yet profound: let the natural ingredients of the Pacific Northwest speak for themselves. “Local, local, local,” she emphasizes, celebrating the region’s seafood, produce and growing cider industry — and reflecting her deep respect for mother nature’s offerings.

“Vancouver Island is graced with delicious bounty, both on land and in its surrounding waters,” she says. “From the halibut to the local blueberries grown here, I’m always thrilled to highlight hyperlocal ingredients on our menus and partner with local producers and gatherers.” Chef Chung’s harmonious relationship with nature and passion for Accor’s pollinator program has made her a well-recognized and knowledgeable sustainability champion.

As a trailblazer in a traditionally male-dominated industry, she is also passionate about paving the way for future female leaders. Her involvement with Les Dames d’Escoffier underscores her commitment to mentorship and providing opportunities for those entering the field. At Fairmont Empress, Chef Chung is revitalizing the culinary apprenticeship program to develop the next generation of chefs.

“Learning is a lifelong journey,” she asserts. “Everyone has something to teach us, and growth stops when we think we have nothing left to learn.”

Victoria’s culinary scene is evolving and Chef Chung is eager to contribute. With renovations underway to The Bengal for a newly reimagined experience and new spring menus launching at Q at the Empress, she is keen to make Fairmont Empress a culinary hotspot.

Under Chef Chung’s helm, Fairmont Empress is not just preserving its storied past but also embracing a future brimming with innovation and inclusivity — and her vision promises to deliver a sustainable and deliciously tasteful legacy.

721 Government Street | 250-384-8111 fairmont.com/empress-victoria

BUSINESS PROFILE

ROB CAMPBELL

Dr. Brad Nelson, director, Deeley Research Centre

BC CANCER FOUNDATION Expanding access to groundbreaking cancer therapies in B.C.

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n the heart of Victoria, Dr. Brad Nelson and his team at BC Cancer – Victoria’s Deeley Research Centre (DRC) are changing the way cancer is treated, one breakthrough at a time. As the director of the DRC, Dr. Nelson has been at the forefront of immunotherapy research for over two decades, helping pave the way for life-saving treatments that could transform cancer care for generations to come.

Now, thanks to an ambitious $6.8 million BC Cancer Foundation fundraising campaign, his team is poised to take cancer research to the next level, giving new hope to patients facing the disease.

A major focus of this effort is expanding the use of CAR T-cell therapy, a revolutionary treatment that engineers a patient’s own immune cells to recognize and attack cancer.

This approach is already changing outcomes for patients with certain blood cancers, and Dr. Nelson’s team is working to refine and expand its effectiveness.

With this campaign, the team is launching

a new clinical trial to enhance CAR T-cell therapy for blood cancers, increasing its efficacy and making it accessible to more patients. At the same time, they are pushing the boundaries of immunotherapy by expanding research into some of the most difficult-to-treat cancers, including pancreatic and ovarian cancer.

Dr. Nelson and his colleagues’ work is a testament to what can be achieved when science, innovation and community come together. Established in 2003 through 100% donor funding, the DRC has become a worldclass hub for immunotherapy research.

“I’m continually inspired by how our community rallies to support the DRC’s research,” says William Litchfield, Executive Director – Vancouver Island, BC Cancer Foundation. “Their generosity isn’t just advancing science — it’s giving hope to patients who might not otherwise have options. That’s something we can all be proud of.”

However, to fully realize the potential of immunotherapy, additional funding is

needed. The $6.8 million campaign will support vital clinical trials, expand the reach of CAR T-cell therapy and accelerate the pace of research — ultimately transforming cancer care in B.C. and beyond.

Dr. Nelson and his team have already made extraordinary progress, but their work is far from finished. With continued philanthropic support, they will take the next critical steps in making immunotherapy a standard treatment for more types of cancer, helping to save and improve lives.

To learn more or donate, visit bccancerfoundation.com/vancouver-island or contact William Litchfield at 250-667-8690 or william.litchfield@bccancer.bc.ca

STYLE WATCH Fashion Stylist: Janine Metcalfe Photographer: Michelle Proctor

Primavera Italy might be a world away, but we can still enjoy the essence of la dolce vita with colour, romantic silhouettes and floral prints among spring’s prettiest blooms.

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Bellissima

This page: Soft pink cardigan by Des Petits Hauts, available at Bagheera Boutique. Floral pantaloons by April Cornell, available at Muffet & Louisa. Black ballet flats by Wonders, available at Waterlily Shoes.

Left: Wide poplin shirt and blue skirt, both by Lauren Vidal, and Lake Como Island Capri accordion hat, all available at Adventure Clothing.

Fiori

This page: Pink floral linen maxi-dress by Linen Luv, available at Butik Naturals.

Left: Blue floral blouse by Mos Mosh and long floral Rosetta skirt by Rails, both available at Moden Boutique. Silk scarf by Christine Lingerie, available at christinelingerie.com

Romantica

Verde

This page: Nanena dress with flared skirt and floral print by Part Two, available at Bagheera Boutique. Black ballet flats

by Wonders, available at Waterlily Shoes.

Left: Green silk Marli floral dress

by Heartloom, available at Amelia Lee Boutique.

Head scarf by Mona Sultan, available at monasultan.com.

Yellow ballet flats by Bueno, available at Waterlily Shoes.

Model: Tara Lyons/Lizbell Agency Hair and makeup: Anya Ellis/Lizbell Agency Thank you to Twyla’s Flower Farm and Floristry.

Grazioso

PUSH. PULL. LIFT. CARRY. GO! WHY CROSSFIT IS THE FITS-ONE, FITS-ALL WORKOUT REGIMEN YOU MIGHT BE LOOKING FOR.

By Emily Bruser

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o many, the mention of CrossFit conjures up notions of ultra-buff bros grunting while lifting Olympic-sized weights above their heads. But peel back the layers, and you just might discover that this workout consisting of “constantly varied, highintensity, functional movements” is surprisingly versatile and the ticket to building strength while achieving a new frontier of full-body fitness.

IN THE ZONE The concept of CrossFit has been around since the 1970s, but was officially incorporated as a company in 2000, with the first CrossFit gym opening in 2001 in Santa Cruz, California. Today there are over 10,000 locations in 155 countries worldwide. A handful of them are here in Victoria, including CrossFit Vic City, CrossFit Taranis Athletics and CrossFit Zone, which was the first to open, in 2008, and is co-owned by Dan Schafer and Alex Mueller.

Schafer remembers discovering CrossFit in its early days and asking, “Who knew you could run AND lift at the same time or that you could train complex movements instead of individual muscles? And why didn’t anyone tell me that it yields better results?”

What makes CrossFit so appealing to many is the way it focuses on movements that mimic real-life activities, such as squats, deadlifts, push-ups and pullups, and combines functional exercises like weightlifting, gymnastics and calisthenics. It also offers lots of variety; workouts are led by certified coaches and designed to be different every day, so participants are constantly challenged and avoid plateaus.

Most boxes (as CrossFit Gyms are called) offer a series of on-ramp classes where new members can learn how to safely perform the manoeuvres, as well as become familiar with the vocabulary and plethora of acronyms that come with the territory.

Boxes usually offer a handful of group classes a day and each one begins with the instructor gathering the group and breaking the ice with the question of the day. “It’s a good way to get folks chatting and being social to start the day,” Schafer says. “Sometimes it’ll be to get to know folks, so things like ‘What’s your favourite hiking spot?’

This week, we went a bit off the rails. It started by thinking about basketball: Magic Johnson and Larry Bird. We landed on: ‘Would you rather have a magic bird or be able to do bird magic?’ It broke people’s brains.”

Next, Schafer walks the group through the workout of the day (WOD), which is written on a whiteboard as a point of reference. “The job of a CrossFit coach is the facilitation of a training program with personal interventions for the participant. We aim to increase folks’ understanding of what they’re doing alongside their quality of movement,” Schafer says.

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

“WHO KNEW YOU COULD RUN AND LIFT AT THE SAME TIME ... ?”

At Victoria’s CrossFit Zone, athletes get a full-body workout on the rowing machines. In the background, the workout of the day is posted on a whiteboard for inspiration.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 53

FIT FOR ANYTHING As for Guthrie, despite being active his whole life, at 67, he has had two heart attacks. But not long into his CrossFit journey, Guthrie told his coach: “I feel I have a shot at the CrossFit Games.”

Every year since 2011, CrossFit enthusiasts of all levels have been invited to compete in a three-week global competition called the CrossFit Open. Participants complete the

CROSSFIT.COM

Participants of all fitness levels train for the three-week-long international competition called the CrossFit Open, whose winners then compete in the CrossFit Games.

workouts from the comfort of their CrossFit affiliates, submitting their scores on the CrossFit Games website. Hundreds of thousands of people participate in the Open annually, competing against their respective age categories. The best athletes progress to the semifinals and then the cream of the crop moves on to the annual CrossFit Games to compete for the title of “Fittest on Earth.”

Since 2019, Guthrie has improved his ranking

CROSSFIT.COM

Many of the WODs comprise exercises you are likely already familiar with, such as burpees, squats, box jumps, pull-ups, wall ball and barbell deadlifts, and can be as short as 15 minutes.

The idea is that these workouts should be accessible to everyone, and the membership at CrossFit Zone certainly reflects that — it runs the gamut from competitive athletes to weekend warriors to those working to relinquish their walkers. The youngest members are teenagers; the oldest member is a remarkable 95 years of age.

That would be John Guthrie’s dad. Guthrie himself joined CrossFit seven years ago after he heard about it from a friend in his master’s biking group. When doctors at the Royal Jubilee Hospital memory clinic encouraged him to help his father, who has Alzheimer’s disease, stay active, Guthrie decided to introduce him to CrossFit, too. Now he brings him to the Zone once a week for a guided workout, and describes his father’s joy as contagious.

from 343rd to the 30th fittest in the world in his category (men 65 and older) and hopes to attend the 2025 Games this August in Albany, New York.

Schafer explains that at Guthrie’s level at the Games, “There’s some grey hair, but it’s on folks with abs who have the ability to walk on their hands or put 200 pounds over their head.

Victoria is a sneaky little hotbed of fitness and there’s been a lot of representation at the Games over the years.”

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“THE BENEFITS OF CROSSFIT TRAINING COME FROM THE STACKING UP OF WEEKS AND MONTHS CONSISTENTLY...”

Whether or not participants plan to compete, CrossFit can help them stay fit longer, age better and navigate everyday activities more easily.

“You can have a fit, healthy and vibrant life if you commit to it,” says Sheila Beauchemin, who discovered CrossFit a decade ago, when she was 50. She’d been coming off 20 years of parenting and deprioritizing her own fitness, struggling with chronic back pain and barely able to walk for even 20 minutes.

Today, she credits CrossFit for helping her get into the best shape of her life. She is especially attracted to the way she feels it targets the whole picture. “It is a holistic experience; there is the physical aspect of it, but then there are also the changes that you start to make in your habits and nutrition as well as the community you discover and become a part of,” she says.

She wishes she had committed to CrossFit sooner and is inspired by the moms who come with their babies and squeeze in a class. And Beauchemin put CrossFit’s motto of “train for the unexpected” to the test recently when she and her husband were travelling in Greece and she tripped and fell while on a remote hike. “I came down with full force on my hands and have no doubt I would have broken my wrists if not for my CrossFit training.”

GAME CHANGER When I began CrossFit, I remember feeling like I was starting over every time I showed up to a class. For months, there seemed to be one thing in every workout that I didn’t understand, whether it was the difference between a hang snatch and a power snatch or the proper form for a Turkish Get-Up or what the heck AMRAP stands for. (For the record: As Many Reps/Rounds As Possible.)

But one thing I did notice was that the more I showed up, the better I felt. I also noticed a shift in my mindset as I began to see exercise as a means to get stronger and feel better rather than looking at it as a way to lose weight or burn calories.

This didn’t happen overnight, but as Schafer says, “We try to explain that a low trajectory at a target far away is best for your results. The benefits of CrossFit training come from the stacking up of weeks and months consistently, not a few days.”

Schafer describes an average day at CrossFit: “You walk in the door and hear your name yelled across the gym by your coach or your friends. Then you find a few minutes to catch up, talk about how the weekend went, how the kids are doing, etc. Finally, you get a good workout, where you move the needle forward in some way and learn something.”

Add to that an enthusiastic greeting from Max the resident puppy and you’re only one workout away from a fresh start.

GEAR TO GET YOU GOING Considering CrossFit? This is some of the gear you may find yourself using as you get into shape.

Kettlebells

These weights resemble a cannonball with a handle and are used for a wide range of exercises ranging from powerful swings to snatches, cleans, jerks, Turkish get-ups, farmer’s carries and more.

Stationary Bike

For improving cardiovascular fitness and building leg strength.

Dumbbells

These versatile, strengthbuilding tools can duplicate most barbell or weight-room machine exercises, but also offer a wide range of single-arm, rehabspecific and explosive movements in virtually any size of space. They’re accessible to anyone, too, ranging in weight from one to 125 pounds.

Indoor Rowing Machine

A rower can provide an exceptional full-body workout, making it ideal for the home gym, affiliates and commercial gyms alike.

Medicine Ball

If you haven’t seen one of these weighted balls since ducking dodgeballs in high school, you might be surprised to learn how handy they are for building strength and co-ordination.

Speed Ropes

Not the heavy, plastic skipping ropes from your childhood, these are light, flexible, technically advanced ropes designed for a high-speed way to skip into cardiovascular health, boost co-ordination and burn calories.

Training Sled

These are designed to be loaded up with weights (kettlebells, dumbbells, weight plates, sandbags) then pushed or pulled for a full-body workout that builds power, speed and endurance.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 55

ON THE TRAIL OF A BOOZY YYJ MYSTERY Can you dig it? We’re talkin’ about the Shaft.

By Linda Barnard

When you order a cocktail, you’re probably not checking its bartender Mark Smith. But was there proof? Where was he birth certificate. But bloodlines matter when it comes to the now? And how did his drink get to Victoria?

Shaft.

BORN IN CALGARY …

Victoria and Calgary have been duking it out for more A chance meeting with Shayne Perrin, co-owner of than 25 years over which city launched the legendary quickbarbershop-bar Cannibale in Calgary, led to former sipping coffee drink with a boozy kick. bartender J.J. Ryan. He confirmed that Smith invented and With cocktail history, there’s a good chance chroniclers named the Shaft in the spring of 1996 at Cilantro Restaurant. have hazy recollections. Dates, names and places can get He knows because he was there. murky.

So was fellow bartender Christian Kittleson. That’s your Getting to the heart of the Shaft story took time, barstool Victoria connection. Kittleson sent a new version of the interviews and following twisting tips and leads in Victoria, Shaft into Victoria’s cocktail world a couple of years later, along with a sip-and-sleuth trip to Calgary. where it has dominated drink lists ever since.

There were practical lessons, including a Shaft speedThrough them, I learned that Smith — sipping contest with Shaft who was born in America — now lives on Ambassador and co-owner Cliff the Big Island of Hawaii, where he owns Harvey at The Living Room and runs a small artisanal ice cream Restaurant on Calgary’s 17th shop.

Avenue entertainment and eatery But back in the day, Smith was strip. The Living Room is Canada’s Calgary’s favourite cocktail slinger, a top seller of key Shaft ingredient personable guy with quick wit and a love Kahlúa, selling up to 18,000 Shafts of pop culture. a year from a special corner of the “It’s been a muddled sort of history,” bar. Drinkers drop in, knock the Smith admits when I track him down by custom glass against the counter, phone. sip the Shaft fast enough to nearly Smith, who embodies a Hawaiian collapse the straw and toddle off, hang-loose vibe, called the ongoing rejuvenated.

Calgary-Victoria Shaft origin debate One name kept popping up as Barkeeps J.J. Ryan (left) and Mark Smith in 1990s “hilarious.”

Calgary, where cocktail history was created. the creator of the Shaft: Calgary

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JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

Credit Christian Kittleson for bringing the Shaft from Calgary to Victoria, then giving it a boozy twist that launched countless creative interpretations. Here he takes a break from mergers and acquisitions to enjoy a Shaft at Q Bar.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 57

METRO-GOLDWYN-MAYER

SMITH NAMED THE DRINK FOR THE TITULAR TALL, COOL, BLACK PRIVATE EYE JOHN SHAFT, PLAYED

BY RICHARD ROUNDTREE IN THE 1971 FILM SHAFT.

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025

Smith came up with a drink to be downed in a hurry to revive flagging patrons and weary bartenders. He worked on ideas for his “grown-up iced coffee” in various 17th Avenue Calgary bars and restaurants in the mid-’90s and settled on this recipe: chilled long espresso, Kahlúa and one ounce of skim milk served in a tall glass packed with ice.

He named it for the titular tall, cool, Black private eye John Shaft, played by Richard Roundtree in the 1971 film Shaft.

But Shaft fans here insist the drink is Victoria’s own, invented at Hugo’s, a muchmissed Courtney Street bar and brewpub that catered to a hospitality-industry crowd.

And that’s true, too, in a way.

If Smith is the Shaft Daddy, Victoria’s Kittleson is the one who introduced it here, adding a vodka kick.

Now a mergers-and-acquisitions executive with Deloitte Canada, Kittleson was Smith’s coworker at more than one Calgary bar, as well as his roommate and best friend. He collaborated on the early recipes for what became the Shaft.

“Mark had dabbled with R&D previously, but it became a thing between ’95 and ’97 because we were actively drinking [Shafts] during the Atlanta Olympics in ’96,” Kittleson recalls.

Kittleson was the first person, aside from Smith, to drink a Shaft. He dropped into Cilantro between bar shifts one afternoon.

Smith put the glass in front of him and introduced the Shaft.

Fellow bartender J.J. Ryan walked in.

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At the Fairmont Empress, the Q Bar’s luxe version of the Shaft is topped with coconut milk foam and gold flakes.

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

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“You gotta taste this,” Kittleson said. Ryan took a sip. “What is that? It’s f---ing amazing!”

The drink marketed itself, Ryan says. “Anything Mark put his name to was going to be cool in Calgary.”

… PERFECTED IN VICTORIA In 1998, Kittleson moved to Victoria to do his undergrad degree at the University of Victoria.

He worked as a bartender at Hugo’s, where his boss was Dave Kindrat, now the co-owner of 5th Street Bar & Grill on Hillside Avenue and Fiamo Italian Kitchen on Yates Street.

In late 1999, Kindrat asked Hugo’s bar staff to come up with some new cocktail ideas.

“I said, ‘I’ve only created one drink in my life’ and I explained what the Shaft was,” says Kittleson.

His Shaft veered from Smith’s recipe by adding vodka to the mix. He served it in a short cocktail glass with a straw, telling patrons to drink it fast.

“People were ordering these things like crazy,” Kittleson recalls. “It wasn’t a cocktail anymore.

It was a two-ounce shooter you drank in five seconds. The following built and built. And the rest is history.”

“The story frickin’ matters,” says Ryan, who is still in the Shaft business. He created and began selling a premium ready-to-drink canned Shaft called SHFT Coffee in 2022. Smith, who calls it a “great and a true expression” of his drink, is an investor in the company. So is Kittleson.

Ryan has made it his mission to see the true history of the Shaft told. The SHFT Coffee can credits both Smith and Kittleson as the Shaft’s creators.

That birth was also the start of an ongoing squabble, one that Victoria cocktail historian and celebrated bartender Shawn Soole, formerly of Clive’s Classic Lounge, settles thus: “It was created in Calgary, but it is Victoria’s cocktail.”

Soole, who is now managing Vancouver’s

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At Moon Under Water, owner and brewmaster Clay Potter serves flights of Shafts on the patio and even sells a house-made Moon The Shaft Liqueur.

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Bagheera and Laowai speakeasies, invented two drinks that honour the Shaft, each with a twist. The Samuel L. Jackson is named for the star of the 2000 and 2019 Shaft remakes.

The John Travolta, made with Silk Road chai-infused amaro and Forty Creek Original Cream Liquor, salutes Jackson’s Pulp Fiction co-star.

“There’s no disputing Victoria took the Shaft and ran with it,” says Ryan. “It’s everywhere and creative bartenders have come up with a variety of recipes.”

He’s right.

VARIATIONS ON A THEME Maeve Fogarty of the Fairmont Empress says they’ve perfected the Shaft at the Q Bar. The $19 drink is made with H.C. Valentine Coffee Company cold brew, Absolut vodka, Kahlúa and either Baileys Original Irish

Cream or Baileys Almande, topped with coconut milk foam and gold flakes.

At The Drake Eatery, Ben Isaacs uses cold Vietnamese coffee in the Viet Iced Coffee Shaft, mixed with Kamora coffee liqueur, vodka and vegan cream made with coconut milk and oak milk.

Boom + Batten serves a Matcha Shaft made with Duncan’s Stillhead Distillery Wild Blackberry Vodka, lavender simple syrup and matcha from Westholme Tea Company.

Can’t decide? Try a Shaft flight at Moon Under Water Brewery and Moon Distilling Co., where owner and brewmaster Clay Potter uses the house-made Moon Espresso Vodka in some Shafts with flavours ranging from caramel chai to raspberry chocolate in others.

Different flavours are also part of Shaft flights at Spinnakers. The OG brewpub on the harbour, which opened 41 years ago, now

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At Boom + Batten, the Shaft tilts toward tea with matcha from the Cowichan Valley’s Westholme Tea Company.

makes its own spirits, too. A classic happy hour Shaft costs just $7.

They even get fancy in Calgary. The Get Shafted at Proof YYC mixes cold brew with Evan Williams Bottled in Bond Bourbon, Pedro Ximénez sherry and Amaro Averna, topped with thick pistachio cream.

As for Smith, he remains a purist.

“It’s terrible now, the last few times I was in Calgary,” he says. “Some [Shafts] with chocolate milk, some with Galliano, root beer. The combinations in some of them are much worse.”

Today, Kittleson occasionally orders a Shaft in Victoria. People are gobsmacked when his friends say this is the guy behind the famous drink, a key player in the long tale of how a Calgary cocktail made its way over the Rockies to reign in Victoria.

“It’s quite a study in cultural dynamics,” he says.

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 61

BETTER

BROWS BORIS JOVANIVIC/STOCKSY

Our eyebrows frame our face and communicate our emotions.

But they need a little help to look their best. Our grooming guide will help with that.

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By YAM Staff

I

STUDIO FIRMA/STOCKSY

t’s easy to ignore your eyebrows — after all, they’re just sitting there on your forehead, often hidden under your fringe. But your brows matter, and so does keeping them well groomed.

Eyebrows aren’t just for raising at a questionable joke or for furrowing when you don’t understand the latest turn in the global economy. They actually have an important purpose.

Eyebrows protect your eyes from sweat, debris and light, and play a crucial role in nonverbal communication. Consider Roger Moore, an actor with a fairly limited range but great charisma: “My acting range has always been something between the two extremes of ‘raises left eyebrow’ and ‘raises right eyebrow,’ ” he once said. That eloquently raised brow led to a starring role in seven James Bond films.

Eyebrows also have a powerful impact on the way we look. Compare pictures of a young George Clooney, with those furry caterpillars above his eyes, and the more groomed look he sported on NBC TV’s ER, and you’ll see what we mean.

The right eyebrow shape and colour can frame your face and flatter your eyes; the wrong one can make you appear aged, tired or even angry. But there is no universally “correct” eyebrow look. Rather, it all depends on the shape of your face and eyes, as well as current trends. Not all of us could pull off the thick, dark, bold eyebrows of a Cara Delevingne or Lily Collins.

Well-groomed brows can make you look younger, in part by making your eyes look bigger, but also because as we age our brows fade and the hairs grow long and wiry. Well-groomed brows also make you look more refined and pulled together. Plus they can be used to balance what might be seen as flaws — an asymmetrical face or one that’s too round or too long, for instance, or eyes that are too small or too far apart — and to convey a whole encyclopedia of emotions.

Most of us aren’t born with perfect brows. We have to work at them. Here’s what you need to keep yours in good nick.

EV ERYDAY CARE

Clean your brows to remove any impurities that may collect under them. A quick sweep with micellar water or a special brow cleanser will do the trick; just avoid anything that might irritate your eyes. If your brows are looking thin and patchy, you could also try a nourishing brow serum to regrow the hairs. And you’ll want to keep the skin hydrated with a moisturizer and protected from the sun with sunscreen.

CREATE A BEAUTIFUL SHAPE Whether your brows are too thick, too thin, too hairy, too patchy, too asymmetrical or just have hairs in places you’d rather they didn’t, you probably need to shape them at least a little bit. You can do it yourself or you may find it easier to pay someone to do it for you at a local brow and lash bar. These are the most common methods for doing so. >> Pluck: Invest in a good pair of tweezers and pluck the hairs out one by one. It’s a good idea to create some sort of stencil or outline for what you’re trying to achieve; the biggest danger here is overplucking, which can lead to thin, unbalanced and/or patchy brows that take ages to grow back — or never do. If you choose to pluck, follow the natural line of your eyebrows, pluck hairs out one at a time in the direction of growth and grab them as close to the roots as possible. If you have any really long, straggly hairs, you can also trim them with small scissors. >> Thread: This method of hair removal originated in India and Iran, but has caught on here in the

STRAIGHT CURVED SOFT ARCH HIGH ARCH When shaping your brows, it’s best to follow the line of their natural growth, and it’s important to note that there is no one “ideal” brow shape. As seen here, brows can be straight, curved or arched in a myriad of different ways.

west for its speed and effectiveness.

A technician twists a thin cotton or polyester thread and rolls it over unwanted hair, plucking it out at the follicle. The result is amazing and natural, but the process can be quite painful. It’s not something you can likely do yourself. >> Wax: Warm, melted wax is spread over the hair you want to remove, then a disposable strip is pressed over the wax and quickly pulled off in the opposite direction of hair growth. This can be very

painful, but the advantage is that it’s over quickly. The other downside is that your skin can become irritated and look unnaturally bald and shiny.

It’s best to have a pro do this. >> Sugar: Sugaring is both similar to waxing and different. A sugarbased paste is applied to the hair, which is then removed with a disposable strip, but this time pulled in short bursts in the direction the hair grows. That makes it gentler and less likely to cause irritation. >> Shave: Those who have very

bushy brows or low tolerance for pain may opt to shave their brows instead. Known as facial, brow, precision or dermaplaning razors, these fine tools are widely available. You can also find handy little battery-operated razors like the Finishing Touch Flawless Facial Hair Remover, which is even easier to use. Just keep in mind that shaving your eyebrows does have its drawbacks, including faster regrowth, the potential for unsightly nicks and the unwelcome appearance of stubble. >> Laminate: This popular grooming technique involves straightening and lifting the hairs using a chemical solution that makes the hairs softer and more flexible. That in turn allows them to fill any gaps, for a more defined, even fluffy, look. Lamination lasts up to six weeks, is non-invasive and not permanent. You’ll need a special product to keep your brows maintained, but otherwise this is a high-impact result that’s almost effortless.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 63

It’s not just how your eyebrows are shaped that has an impact; it’s also their colour. Just think of the drama that Audrey Hepburn or Elizabeth Taylor’s brows had. Colour is especially important if you are very fair or if your brows are growing grey; very pale brows can make you look tired and older than you are, or even a bit spooky, as we saw with 2023’s bleached-eyebrow trend. Here’s how to add colour gracefully.

STUDIO FIRMA/STOCKSY

 ADD DEFINING COLOUR

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>> Pencil: Eyebrow pencils are an easyto-use way of adding definitive temporary colour to your brows. Be sure to blend the colour with an eyebrow brush. Just note that the colour can wear off during the day, especially in hot, humid weather. >> Powder: Eyebrow powder creates a gentler, fluffier look than pencils, but can fade quickly, especially for those who have oily skin. >> Gel: Eyebrow gel can add volume and colour; most importantly, it sets your brows in place and keeps unruly hairs in line. >> Tint: If you’d rather not apply colour every day or worry about it rubbing off on your pillow or disappearing just before your big presentation, you can always have your brows dyed. This is ideal for athletes, travellers on vacation or anyone with pale brows, especially because it covers even the smallest hairs and provides definition even when you’re not wearing makeup. You can, technically, dye your own brows, but we always recommend having a professional do it to avoid damaging your eyes or creating an unsightly mishap. It is, for instance, crucial to choose the right colour, and you won’t know you got it wrong until it’s too late. Note that eyebrow tint typically lasts four to six weeks and gradually fades away. >> Microblade: Microblading is a semipermanent makeup technique that uses a manual, handheld tool with tiny needles to apply pigment into the upper layers of skin, creating the appearance of natural-looking eyebrow hairs. Unlike traditional tattooing, which is permanent and turns a funny sort of blue over time, these pigments just naturally fade away over a few years.

It is not the end of the world if you choose not to groom your brows, but a little maintenance can make a huge difference in how you look and feel and convey your emotions. After all, as the actor Jack Black once said, “You must never underestimate the power of the eyebrow.”

Food+Drink 66 THE DISH

What’s cooking on Victoria’s dining scene, from awardwinning cocktail bars to exciting new restaurant moves.

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Sea Food. Eat. Repeat.

A celebration of our favourite foods from Island waters.

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What Wine With What Fish?

Our handy guide to pairing seafood and wine.

RECIPES

70 Classic Crab Boil 70 Linguine alle Vongole 73 Shrimp or Prawn Roll

IN SEASON Awesome Asparagus

TRINETTE REED/STOCKSY

If you ask us, the best sign that summer is just around the corner is when the first local asparagus arrives at the market, usually in early May. Suddenly, all our favourite spring dishes are on the table, from pasta primavera to salads, soups, stir-fries and so much more. We love these herbaceous spears whether they are thick or thin, quickly poached or grilled over charcoal, served au naturel or drenched in luscious hollandaise, even pickled and ready for our brunch Caesars. What we don’t love so much is growing them ourselves — they are slightly finicky, and even more so if you are trying to grow white asparagus, which is buried away from the daylight that turns it green through photosynthesis. Luckily, we have great local farmers who’ll do it for us so all we need to do is enjoy its bright, summery flavour.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 65

Food+Drink

THE DISH

What’s Cooking Around Victoria We’re celebrating our booziest winners, spiciest new restaurants and all the things that make our city delicious.

JUNO KI M

We could not be more thrilled to hear that one of our favourite barkeeps, Kate Chernoff, formerly of The Courtney Room and Humboldt Bar, has just been named Diageo World Class Canada Bartender of the Year 2025.

Chernoff, who recently moved to Vancouver’s Keefer Bar, now goes on to compete in the World Class global final this September in Toronto. The winner of that prestigious competition is justly considered the best bartender in the world — notably, Canada has won the global title four times since we began competing in 2013. Follow @worldclass on social media.

In exciting recognition for Victoria’s stellar bar scene, Humboldt Bar has popped up at No. 69 on the latest North America’s 50 Best Bars list. (The top 50 hadn’t been announced by press time; find them at theworlds50best.com/bars/ northamerica.) The Humboldt Bar also shone at the illustrious Tales of the Cocktail Foundation’s Spirit Awards, placing in the top 10 for Best International Bar Team – Canada and Best International Cocktail Bar – Canada. Also recognized were Citrus & Cane in the top 10 for Best International Cocktail Bar – Canada and Clive’s Classic Lounge for Best International Hotel Bar – Canada.

Judging by the winners at the recent 2025 World Whiskies Awards, our Island whiskies are the dram others dream of.

Merridale Cidery & Distillery’s Whisky Jacks won gold for Best Canadian Small Batch Single Malt at the prestigious awards.

Merridale won for the first whisky

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ever crafted at the Cowichan distillery, which was made from organic B.C. malted barley, distilled in 2007, aged for over 15 years and named for the two “Jacks,” the fathers of owner Janet Docherty and her co-founder Rick Pipes. “This release is deeply sentimental for us at Merridale,” says Docherty. “To now see it recognized on the global Kate Chernoff stage is incredibly meaningful.”

Meanwhile,

Macaloney’s Distillery won four World Whiskies gold medals, for an astounding total haul of 17 gold medals since 2020, placing it among the world’s top four most awarded distilleries. It won: Best Canadian Pot Still Whisky (Peated Kildara); Best Canadian Small Batch Single Malt (Peat Project Sugar Kelp Peat, Red Wine Barrique); Best Canadian Single Cask Single Malt (Peat Project, Washington Peat, ex-Bourbon Cask); and Category Best Single Malt Gold (Peat Project, Islay Peat, ex-Bourbon Cask). worldwhiskiesawards.com Victorians are also enjoying an elevated wine experience these days, as recognized by the prestigious Wine Program Excellence Awards at the Vancouver International Wine Festival. For the second year in a row, wine director Colin Davidson and the team at The Courtney Room won platinum for their exceptionally well-produced wine list. They were also joined by three other Victoria restaurants: Marilena Cafe & Wine Bar, which took home gold; and Boom + Batten and Fathom, which both won bronze. Note that next year’s festival, the 47th annual, will be held March 7 to 15, with France as the theme region. vanwinefest.ca

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

AWARDS

Cafe Malabar chef and co-owner Kiran Kolathodan adds the finishing touches to one of the fragrantly spiced Keralan dishes served up by the restaurant in its new location at 407 Swift Street.

PARTNERSHIPS We love seeing local partnerships, especially when they add deliciousness to the city.

Among those that have recently tempted our palates: Chef Israel Alvarez Molina and the team at MAiiZ Nixtamal worked with

Île Sauvage Brewing to create a Mexican lager that they’ll be

serving alongside their famous tacos now that they finally have a liquor licence. And Roast, which is losing its home in the Victoria Public Market, is teaming up with Phillips Brewery to launch a popup at its tasting room this summer.

Starting May 12, the collaboration will pair Phillips’s craft beer with Roast’s signature roasted meats, sandwiches, sides and seasonal

Sidney BC 2493 B Beacon Av. 250-655-0372 specials. The pop-up will run through September, and maybe beyond.

OPENINGS AND BIG MOVES Probably the biggest restaurant news of the last couple of months has been the opening of Cafe Malabar in its new location at 407 Swift Street, in the former Tug Eatery space. Chef-owners Kiran Kolathodan and Karma Tenpa had to move from their Victoria Public Market location after the commissary kitchen they used abruptly shut down. Now they are in a bigger space, where they offer table service as well as cocktails, wine and beer to go alongside their exceptional Keralan cuisine. They have a spectacular waterfront patio, too, and promise a special patio program of snacks and bevvies to enjoy all summer long. Meanwhile, head down there to enjoy their warm hospitality and gorgeously spiced dishes. cafemalabar.ca Wait a minute — maybe this is the biggest restaurant news of the season. After a year that saw a few hiccups at Brasserie L’Ecole, the beloved French restaurant is back and on solid ground. It has new owners who have an inspiring track record in Victoria dining: Sam Harris and Vincent Vanderheide, co-owners of Cafe Brio. After a speedy refresh, they’ve quickly reopened their doors, offering the same great food, service and ambience we already love — but now with the option of booking reservations by telephone or OpenTable.

Finally! We couldn’t be happier. lecole.ca

At Sidney’s new Scoop and Waffle, a perfect pairing — double-decker Belgian waffles and cookies ’n’ cream ice cream — for the warm days ahead.

While we were sad to see Little Jumbo close last fall, we’re excited to see what’s moved into its space at 506 Fort Street. Cera Korean Tapas has reopened here with a new concept focused on tapas, share plates and all the fun of Korean drinking culture. Think: light bites like spicy cucumber in sesame chili dressing or inventive creations like kimchi ragu fries, as well as several variations on Korean fried chicken and other classics. Plus you’ll find great cocktails, beer, wine and a selection of the Korean spirit called soju. Seems downtown has a tasty new hangout! ceratapas.com

Now that the warm weather is here, we’re happy to see a cool new sweet spot in downtown Sidney.

Scoop and Waffle, located on Beacon Avenue, is a dessert café that offers 28 rotating flavours of ice cream as well as mini donuts, custom cakes, milkshakes, sundaes, warm Belgian waffles loaded with toppings and waffle pops, mini Belgian waffles served on a stick. For those who want to indulge, but not too much, there are vegan sorbets and gluten-free waffles and cones.

For the latest news, follow them on Instagram @scoopandwafflebc.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 67

Food+Drink

By Joanne Sasvari

SEA FOOD. EAT. REPEAT.

JOANNE SASVARI

A love letter to Vancouver Island’s bounty of crabs, clams, oysters, fin fish and spot prawns.

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S

o there we were, on a beautiful June evening on Mount Washington, absolutely stuffing our faces with oysters and clams and Dungeness crab. The Whiskeydicks were rockin’. World Champion Shucker Paddy was doing his thing, his oyster knife a blur. The bar was running out of rosé.

There was dancing, so much dancing.

It’s safe to say that last year’s BC Seafood Festival was an epic party.

But it was also a whole lot more than that.

It was education and thoughtful discussions about sustainability and harvesting practices.

It was oyster-shucking competitions and chef demonstrations. Most of all, it was a reminder of just how much incredible seafood there is around Vancouver Island.

Sometimes it’s easy to take it for granted.

To think, “Oh no, not salmon again,” and to complain about the price of delicacies like halibut or spot prawns or oysters.

Well, not any more. At least, not as far as I am concerned. Chatting with the chefs and producers on that mountain has inspired me to fall in love with local seafood all over again.

These are the ingredients I’m most smitten with.

GEODUCK We might as well start with the most, um, eye-catching of the local seafood options, the geoduck.

“It is what we like to call presentationally challenged,” says chef Deseree (Dez) Lo, who’s best known as one of the finalists on Season 10 of Top Chef Canada. She laughs a little, then gets serious and adds, “These are also called the king of clams, and in Chinese culture these are very special. They are a way to celebrate for us.”

For any strangers to this giant and somewhat phallic clam, the name is pronounced “gooey-duck” and it’s the world’s largest burrowing clam, found along this coast from Alaska to Baja. It usually weighs between 0.5 and 1.5 kilograms, with a shell that can be more than 20 centimetres long and a siphon that can extend as much as a metre.

In B.C., geoduck is a fairly new commercial fishery, with only 55 licence holders in the province, represented by the Underwater Harvesters Association. In fact, for many years geoduck was incredibly cheap, like lobster was once upon a time on the East Coast. It was such a bargain that BC Ferries used it in their clam chowder. Now it’s an expensive delicacy (about $35 a pound retail), highly prized by Japanese sushi chefs for sashimi (look for

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YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 69

“mirugai” on the menu) and Chinese chefs for any number of elevated dishes.

Today, most geoducks are shipped to Asia.

If you do get your hands on one, note that it takes a little finesse to prepare.

The siphon is covered in a tough skin that must be removed. To do so, dip the siphon into boiling salt water for no more than 60 seconds; the skin will turn white and detach itself. After that, all you need to do is slice the flesh very thin and enjoy its fresh, almost crunchy texture. “You want to consume this as raw as possible, almost sashimi style, to taste the natural sweetness,” Lo says.

The belly meat, meanwhile, is ideal in chowder, fritters, clam strips or stir fries.

To prep it, remove the shell, slice down the middle of the belly and rinse it out well with salt water before following the instructions in your recipe.

Also good to know: Geoduck is available year round (if it’s available at all), its only natural predator is the sea otter and one giant clam takes 10 years to reach maturity and can live for 180 years. As Lo says, drily, “It’s a grower, not a shower.”

FIN FISH The most famous fin fish from these waters is, of course, salmon, both the five indigenous wild species (chinook, coho, chum, pink and sockeye) as well as the farmed Atlantic salmon that is our most lucrative seafood product by far, especially for export.

According to the Ministry of Agriculture and Food’s Sector Snapshot, in 2023 B.C. exported some $390 million worth of farmed Atlantic salmon, four times the value of the next commodity, shrimps and prawns.

Salmon is closely intertwined with Indigenous cultures and local economies.

It’s both an everyday staple and a fine-dining delicacy, the dish we serve to visitors to say, “Welcome, this is who we are.”

But there’s also halibut, a delicate and flaky white fish that we enjoy panfried with butter and lemon. It has become something of a luxury food that retails for $28 to $53 a pound. It is easy but tricky to cook — just a few seconds too long in the pan and it can quickly become dry and disappointing.

That’s why we love sablefish so much. It is also a flaky white fish with a luxurious price (though not quite as spendy as halibut), but has a rich, buttery flavour and texture. In fact, one of its nicknames is butterfish. (The other is black cod, although it’s not actually a member of the cod family.)

Because sablefish is so rich, it’s much less finicky to cook and can benefit from salty or acidic flavourings, especially ginger and soy sauce. Try it poached, pan-fried, grilled or smoked.

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Linguine alle Vongole

Linguine alle Vongole

Classic Crab Boil

This classic northern Italian dish is quick and easy enough to serve on a weeknight.

Here on Vancouver Island, Dungeness crab is in season all year round, and nothing beats a crab boil, especially on a summer’s day. This classic recipe is similar to what’s served from New England to New Orleans to this coast.

Note that you will need a pot large enough to submerge four whole crabs for this recipe.

Serves 4 • About 2 tsp salt • 1 pkg (500 g) dried linguine, preferably bronze-die cut (al bronzo) • 4 to 6 Tbsp unsalted butter, divided • 1 large shallot, peeled and chopped fine • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped fine • ½ tsp red pepper flakes (or to taste) • ½ cup white wine • 2 lbs live clams • Juice of 1 lemon • ¼ cup finely chopped fresh parsley (or more, if you like) Prep all your ingredients before you start, because once you start cooking, everything goes very fast.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the salt and then the linguine. Cook according to package instructions until al dente.

While the pasta is cooking, heat 2 Tbsp butter in a large, lidded skillet over medium high, then add the shallots, garlic and red pepper flakes and cook until soft. Stir in the wine and cook for about a minute, then add the clams and cover with the lid.

When the pasta is ready, strain it, reserving a cup of pasta water, and set aside.

The clams should all be open by now. Discard any that aren’t, then add another 2 Tbsp butter to the clams and their liquor, and then the lemon juice. If you like, add even more butter — it will make the sauce richer and glossier.

Toss the clams (still in their shells) and their sauce with the pasta; if it’s looking a little dry, stir in some of the pasta water. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.

Serves 4 • 8 to 12 small red potatoes • 2 onions, quartered • ¼ cup seafood seasoning (such as Old Bay), or to taste • Optional: 2 Tbsp Cajun seasoning • 4 to 8 links of smoked sausage, preferably andouille, sliced into 1-inch pieces • 2 ears fresh corn, cut cross-wise into thirds • 4 whole live Dungeness crabs Fill a large pot with enough water to generously cover all four crabs, then place over high heat.

Add the potatoes, onions and seasonings and bring to a boil. Cook for about 15 minutes, then add the sausage and corn.

Cook for another 15 minutes, then add the whole crabs and put the lid on the pot.

Continue cooking for another 10 minutes.

Strain all the ingredients out of the pot, divide equally between bowls and serve with crusty bread and, if you like, drawn butter.

To make drawn butter: Melt ½ cup or 1 cup of butter in a small pan over low heat. Skim any solids or foam that rises to the top; try not to let them brown. Pour butter into ramekins or small bowls to use tableside, leaving behind any milk solids that have settled to the bottom of the pan.

SHELLFISH Oysters, clams, mussels and scallops are ideal for aquaculture because they require few inputs aside from the seed and, as filter feeders, actually clean the water rather than add any pollutants to it. Shellfish farming isn’t new — Indigenous peoples on this coast have used clam gardens and oyster reefs for thousands of years — and it’s an industry with lots of potential, especially for the Comox Valley, which already produces more than half of B.C.’s shellfish and the most oysters in Canada.

But things have been challenging these last few years, largely because of climate change. In 2014, increased ocean acidity blamed on warmer water caused a massive die-off of some 10 million scallops near Qualicum Beach, killing the nascent scallop aquaculture business. Today all scallops in B.C. are wild harvested — and there are only four scallop licences.

Then, during the 2021 heat dome, air temperatures as high as 50°C killed an estimated one billion marine animals, many of them mussels, clams and oysters. Add to that the ongoing staffing shortages at processing plants and you can see why B.C. oysters are now regularly $4 or more apiece at your favourite oyster bar.

That said, few things are as delicious as a freshly shucked oyster, all tender and briny with that fresh minerality and the mintycucumber flavour you sometimes get in this region. It is also “the simplest form of gaining nutrition: Just open and eat,” says Patrick McMurray, a.k.a. Shucker Paddy, the 2002 World Champion oyster shucker and Guinness World Record holder (39 oysters in one minute, 1,114 oysters per hour).

The first time I met Shucker Paddy, he was shucking oysters on an oyster boat floating off Prince Edward Island; the last time I saw him he was pouring shots of Unruly Gin into oyster shells. This time, he was making oysters Rockefeller.

This classic dish of baked oysters topped with spinach and cheese originated in the 19th century at a famous New Orleans restaurant called Antoine’s. It’s still a “super secret family recipe,” McMurray says. “I heard that the original version has arugula or watercress.”

The version we make has spinach, fennel and a melty Parmesan aioli, with just a touch of char from the grill. And, yes, we did feel as rich as Rockefellers eating it.

All scallops in B.C. are wild harvested — and there are only four scallop licences.

Oysters Rockefeller is a classic and crowd-pleasing way to serve local bivalves.

To make it, top shucked oysters with a mixture of spinach and cheese, then bake.

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• Sustainably Sourced – Ethical fishing methods protect our oceans for future generations.

• Proudly Canadian – Caught by our B.C. fleet, supporting local fishers and coastal industries.

Taste the finest — straight from the sea to you!

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 71

SPOT PRAWNS

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Finally, there is the spot prawn, the largest and most luxurious of the shrimp that can be found in B.C. waters. Spot prawn season arrives each year in May and lasts only a few short weeks, making this a good time to brush up on your prawn know-how.

This is not a species that lends itself to aquaculture. Instead, B.C.’s 245 spot prawn fishing licence holders go out in boats to drop lines of traps to catch these very, very expensive little crustaceans in the wild.

Last year, live spot prawns were retailing for $27 to $42 per pound. That’s a lot of money.

But as chef Julian Bond points out: “When you have a beautiful, beautiful product like this or a geoduck, we need to celebrate it like a truffle.”

Bond and chef Robert Clark, one of the cofounders of Ocean Wise, were leading a master class they called “Prawn to be Wild” at the festival. At the time both were working with Organic Ocean, a seafood company founded by fishermen; just a few months earlier I’d gone out with Clark on one of Organic Ocean’s boats to harvest spot prawns in a top secret location.

Spot prawns are recognizable by the white spots on their heads, but what makes them truly remarkable is that they are hermaphrodites, born as males and transitioning to female halfway through their lives. They spawn in winter, which is why the fishery is in spring, are highly sustainable and, unlike farmed tiger prawns, purge themselves when they are harvested, so there’s no need to devein them (that is, remove their gross little intestines).

“Compared to farmed tiger prawns, these ones are as pure as the driven snow,” Clark says.

The other thing that’s remarkable is that while spot prawns are one of B.C.’s most popular seafood exports, it’s only recently that they have been made available to local consumers. “It wasn’t until the Chefs’ Table Society and Organic Ocean went out and purchased a spot prawn licence that we could sell spot prawns to the local community,” Clark says.

The best way to enjoy spot prawns is to buy them live and barely cook them. Bond and Clark point out, though, that frozen-at-sea spot prawn tails are easier to use and almost as delicious as fresh. If you are going to pick up some live prawns this season, Clark has some advice. “Fresh prawns are best eaten right away, not peel and eat later. In a shallow dish, pour boiling water over the prawns for 30 seconds and then enjoy,” he says.

And if you are still struggling with the price of our truffles from the sea, Clark adds: “Spot prawns are not just the best-tasting prawns on the market, they are the most sustainable. It’s something that we can be proud of.”

Shrimp or Prawn Roll Both simple and decadent, nothing shows off really great prawns like this recipe.

Serves 8 • 1 lb peeled, cooked spot prawn tails (see note) or other shrimp • ½ cup mayonnaise or as needed • 8 unsliced brioche-style hot dog buns • Room temperature butter, as needed In a bowl, mix together the prawns or shrimp with just enough mayo to bind them. If you really want, you could add a few drops of hot sauce, lemon juice or a pinch of salt and pepper, but the simplicity of this dish is what makes it so good. Keep chilled until ready to use.

Line a sheet pan with parchment and turn on your oven’s broiler. Slice the buns lengthwise down the top (not from the side like a normal hot dog), then trim the crusts on the sides just enough to expose the crumb. Butter the cut sides and lay the buns on one side (with a buttered side facing up) on the parchment.

Pop the buns under the broiler until toasty and golden — this will take only a few seconds, so don’t take your eyes off them. Remove from the oven, flip the buns and toast the other side.

Remove from the oven and fill each bun with the shrimp/mayo mix. Make it easier for both yourself and your guests by wrapping the buttery rolls in pieces of parchment paper.

Note: If you are using spot prawns, you will want to cook them just before serving. Here’s how.

It’s easiest to use frozen, shell-on spot prawn tails for this, rather than live prawns. Thaw the tub of prawns overnight, drain off the water and place the prawns in a heatproof baking dish.

Fill a separate large bowl with cold water and ice cubes and set aside.

Bring a pot or kettle of water to a boil, pour it over the prawns for no more than 30 seconds, then use a spider or skimmer to transfer them immediately to the ice bath.

When they are cool enough to handle, peel them and they’re ready to use.

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ABOUT THE FEST The BC Seafood Festival has been held in one form or another in the Comox Valley since 2006, starting as a single-event dinner hosted by the BC Shellfish Growers Association. Over the years it expanded into a two-day event at Filberg Park in Comox, then grew to three days and moved to Mount Washington.

Throughout, its mission has remained the same: bringing together producers, chefs and consumers to celebrate B.C. seafood through chef-led lunches and dinners, master classes, chef demos, parties and friendly competitions.

Details for the 2025 festival are still being finalized; visit bcseafoodfestival.com for the latest info.

ON NOW SEE FULL SCHEDULE AND GET TICKETS

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 73

Food+Drink

By Joanne Sasvari

WHAT WINE WITH WHAT FISH?

From oysters to octopus, here’s how to choose the best pairing for your seafood feast.

W

hen it comes to pairing food and wine, it’s a truism that what grows together, goes together. So it should come as no surprise that Island wines — from our sparkling Charme de L’île to crisp coastal whites to berrybright Pinot Noirs — tend to go nicely with the bounty of seafood that comes from the waters that surround us.

Choosing local is a good start, but there’s more to wine-and-seafood pairing than that. There are two main things to keep in mind. One is the type of seafood you’re trying to match; the other is how it is prepared. But there are also other nuances to consider before you uncork that bottle of vino.

First of all, it’s true that white wine generally pairs better with fish, but in certain instances rosés and some reds are a better choice. Just

keep in mind that reds can overwhelm delicate flavours and the tannins in many red wines can interact with fish oils (or spices) and leave a metallic aftertaste. In general, it’s best to choose softer, lighter, fruitier reds like Gamay (Beaujolais), Grenache (Rhône) and Sangiovese (Chianti) and avoid big, bold ones like Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux blends, Syrah and Nebbiolo (found in Barolo and Barbaresco).

Secondly, consider the type of seafood you’re pairing. A light, delicate type of seafood, such as flaky white fish like sole or ling cod, cries out for a light, delicate sort of wine. A richer, denser, more intensely flavoured seafood, like salmon, swordfish or mackerel, pairs better with fullerbodied wines, even red ones.

Just as important, and maybe even more so, is how the seafood is prepared.

Is it steamed, grilled or battered and deep-fried? Served in a soup or stew or tossed with pasta? Is it flavoured with a simple squeeze of lemon or lavished with a buttery cream sauce, topped with a tangy tomato salsa or drizzled with fragrant Thai curry? The wine you choose should complement the flavours and textures of any sauces or other accompaniments, taking special care with spices and acidity.

Here on Vancouver Island, seafood is a quintessential part of our culture and an essential part of our communal table, but it can also be a pricey luxury food. It only makes sense to make the most of it, to highlight its subtle yet sumptuous character. Choosing the right wine will do just that.

SEAFOOD PAIRING GUIDE Here are some of our favourite seafood dishes, and the best style of wine to go with them.

• Freshly shucked oysters and other raw seafood: Crisp, lean, high-acid whites, ideally with some minerality, including sparkling wines as well as Muscadet, Albariño, Sancerre or Chablis.

• Simple pan-fried white fish and most cooked shellfish (scallops, clams, mussels, oysters, dishes such as linguine alle vongole): Dry, crisp, even austere white wines such as Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Italian Vermentino. Albariño and Verdelho, zesty whites from Spain and Portugal, are another good choice with shellfish of all sorts.

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• Thai seafood curries and other Asian flavours: The complex blend of sweet, salty, hot and sour that is the signature of these dishes needs a wine that is equally complex, with a rich texture, slight sweetness, perfumed nose and, typically, tropical fruit flavours.

Consider Riesling or Gewürztraminer, especially one with a bit of residual sugar, or some Rhône white blends.

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• Fish and chips, tempura shrimp: Bubbles! Whether Champagne, Prosecco, Cava or the Island’s own Charme de L’île, the crisp flavour and effervescence of sparkling wines cuts though the fat and weight of the fried batter.

• Seafood chowder, lobster, crab cakes, anything in a rich, buttery, creamy sauce: These rich, full-bodied seafoods demand a richer, fuller-bodied white wine.

Consider Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Viognier or a Rhône white blend.

• Lox (salt-cured salmon), smoked salmon, salmon candy: Look for a juicy, fruity wine that balances the salt and/or smoke, with enough acid to cut through the fat and enough weight to stand up to all that flavour. Consider a richer Riesling, rosé or lightly chilled Gamay.

• Shrimp, poached, grilled or cooked a la plancha with garlic: A bone-dry, slightly salty fino sherry is an excellent choice, and even better if you also serve potato chips, green olives and Spanish-style almonds.

For shrimp and other chilled seafood served cocktail-style with Marie Rose sauce or remoulade (spiced mayonnaise), a light-bodied rosé is a great choice.

• Bouillabaise, cioppino: These sunsoaked, boldly flavoured fish stews are ideal with bright, fresh, lightly fruity Provence-style rosé wines.

• Grilled salmon, tuna steak, octopus or anything in tomato sauce, other meaty seafoods: Rosé is a safe choice; light, low-tannin, fruit-forward reds might be an even better one. Consider Pinot Noir, Gamay, Grenache and Sangiovese (the main red grape in Chianti wines).

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If in doubt: No matter the type of seafood or the crowd you’re serving it to, sparkling wine is almost always a good (and delicious) choice.

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DESTINATION

MICHAEL LAMBERTY / DESTINATION QUÉBEC CITÉ

HOT TIMES IN QUEBEC CITY

Planning to travel in Canada this year? Summer in the capital of La Belle Province celebrates the essence of joie de vivre.

By Claudia Laroye

Petit Champlain district

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P

Fairmont Le Château Frontenac

edalling my rented e-bike along Quebec City’s scenic Port area, I press the brakes to a sharp standstill at the sight of a large, Olympic-sized swimming pool arranged in the St. Lawrence River.

My eyes are not playing tricks on me. I’ve arrived at the L’Oasis du Port de Quebec. Sadly, without a bathing suit. The gleaming water of this free, public aquatic facility in the Louise Basin at the Port of Quebec looks positively delicious on this hot July day.

This happy, accidental discovery is one of many I’m to encounter on this summer city sojourn in La Belle Province.

For some, the cosmopolitan urban lights of Montreal may eclipse Quebec City. But in quintessential je ne sais quoi style, the provincial capital just shrugs its elegant Gallic shoulders and keeps busy doing what it does best, welcoming the curious and gastronomically inclined to discover what they’ve been missing.

It turns out, it’s a lot.

IT’S ABOUT TIME

DESTINATION QUÉBEC CITÉ

History is inescapable in Quebec, and it isn’t just the provincial licence plate that remembers.

Wandering around this walled, fortified city, founded in 1608 by French explorer and soldier Samuel de Champlain, is like taking a fascinating journey through time.

The Place Royale district square, where de Champlain reportedly founded the city, was rebuilt and renovated in the early 2000s, including the oldest rock church in North America, the 17thcentury Église Notre-Dames-des-Victoires.

The summer breeze in the adjacent Petit

L’Oasis du Port de Quebec

Champlain district, the oldest commercial street in North America, is sweet with the smell of old stone, freshly brewed coffee and tempting pastries. The narrow cobblestone streets are framed by quaint stone buildings, some dating back to the early 17th century.

Petit Champlain’s Old Town Cooperative ensures the commercial spaces are leased to local artists and independent merchants — no chain stores allowed.

It’s an ideal spot to find authentic arts and crafts made by local Québécois and First Nations artists. In summer, the streets are festooned in colourful umbrellas and, during my visit, giant Mr. Pink (Monsieur Rose) figures peeking from building rooftops and windows. The rosy rogues are part of Le Mignonisme, a temporary public artwork installed by French artist Philippe Katerine.

From here, the most photographed hotel in the world, the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac photo-bombs selfies from its hilltop perch. A swift, scenic ride up the funicular in Old Quebec to Dufferin Terrace affords commanding views of the historic hotel, the St. Lawrence River and the impressive Citadelle of Quebec, an active fort and museum.

By the time I stop for a baguette and refreshing lemonade at the Station de la Plage — a riverside sandy beach and pool

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 77

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area overlooking the St. Lawrence — I’ve only done a quarter of Quebec City’s 100 kilometres of cycling trails.

I could spend my entire trip pedalling and wandering the city’s narrow streets, but between arts, culture, gastronomic and wellness experiences, my to-do list is running long.

Over the next few days, I take the waters at Strøm Nordic Spa. The blissful thermotherapy experience at the popular facility adjacent to the St. Lawrence is an oasis of infinity whirlpools, lazy rivers, saunas, cold plunges and relaxation areas.

I pass an afternoon at the museum, wandering the airy white halls and large collection of Riopelle works in the Musée national des beauxarts du Quebec. I ride a cable car and cross the bridge over thundering Montmorency Falls, appreciating its cooling mist in the July heat.

Opting to leave the city walls for a guided field trip with Conciergerie du Terroir, our group heads 30 minutes east towards the Île d’Orléans, an Eden-like landscape of rolling green hills and strawberry fields in the middle of the St. Lawrence River.

Among the island’s lush farmland, chocolate shops and six charming villages, I fall under the spell of a twinkled-eyed sorcerer at the Maison de Thé. Owner Vincent Paris, a bearded, self-described mischievous “farm wizard,” is a successful businessman and founder of Tigidouland.

“Tigidou” is a familiar Québécois expression meaning “it’s all good” and, as a master jam maker for the past decade, Paris Maison de Thé

Île d’Orléans vineyard tour

has been utilizing all the good produce the island has to offer in his delicious concoctions of blueberry-lemon, apple-maple-cream and strawberry-basil jams and syrups.

The House of Tea, located in a charming wooden barn in his “sorcerer’s garden,” opened in June 2024, offering daily high-tea service with tisanes, fresh fruit and baked treats from his fields and farms, all served in a slow-food style befitting the island’s laid-back spirit and summer warmth.

FATHOMVICTORIA.COM

STAR-POWERED DINING Rumour has it that the Michelin Guide’s next stop this year will be in the province of Quebec. The guide’s apportioning of stars has already transformed the Toronto and Vancouver dining scenes, but Quebec City restaurants have been producing Michelin-level dining experiences for quite some time.

At Le Clan, I enjoy a six-course tasting menu of exquisite hyper-local dishes from land and sea prepared by Chef Stephane Modat. The restaurant’s logo of a rabbit morphing into a deer, pheasant and fish alludes as much to Quebec’s hunting and fishing heritage as to the cuisine served by Le Clan’s professional and courteous staff.

Executive chef Sabrina Lemay helms Bistro L’Orygine, owned by the same restaurant group that operates the Relais and Châteaux Tanière3 Experience in the stone building’s dining room cellar. Lemay’s creative, organic-vegetable-forward and vegan dishes exude an elevated simplicity and delectable freshness.

With suitable, selective French wine pairings with every dish, I can imagine myself in Lyon or Nice. But I’m happily ensconced in Quebec City, paying the pleasingly small bill with Canadian dollars instead of costly euros.

How good is that? Travelling to New France in Old Quebec is surely this year’s song of summer.

RESTAURANT • TERRACE • LOUNGE

IF YOU GO ...

Note that there are no direct flights from Victoria to Quebec City, but both Air Canada and WestJet will get you there with connections. Alternatively, you could fly into Toronto or Montreal and enjoy a more scenic journey to the provincial capital by Via Rail.

For more information bonjourquebec.com or quebec-cite.com

Global Threads: The Art and Fashion of Indian Chintz is produced and circulated by ROM (Royal Ontario Museum), Toronto, Canada.

YAM MAGAZINE MAY/JUN 2025 79

SCENE

THE CODA: A SOUND INVESTMENT

Christina Morrison and Al Smith have remade a storied venue with what they say is the best sound system in town.

It’s all about the music at this new/old live entertainment venue.

By David Lennam | Photo by Jeffrey Bosdet

Y

ou won’t believe your ears. Or your ears might not believe they’re in the old Hermann’s Upstairs/Drawing Room/Red Jacket/Yuk-Yuk’s/ Touch, et al.

The longtime View Street nightclub has been given a huge upgrade by its current operators. Al Smith and Christina Morrison have transformed the storied space into two live-music venues with a sound system they say is the best in town. And, in time, will be even better.

“For us, sound was the No. 1 priority,” says Smith. “If we were going to spend money on the place, that’s where we wanted to spend it.”

A prestigious L.A. sound engineering company used 3D modelling and computer analysis to sonically investigate how best to wire the room.

Gear was purchased and installed. The room was mapped again and fully equalized.

“They called me in there after it was done and had me listen to it. I just about cried,” recalls Smith.

“Just about,” adds Morrison. “And you got tears.”

“I got teary, yeah.”

Smith says The Coda is all about having bands connect with their fans in the best possible way and even though the sound is killer, he plans to keep building it into something world class.

“Live music is all about a shared experience for us. A bad sound system gets in the way.”

The Coda, named for the musical term noting the concluding passage of a piece, boasts a bar stage for 126 and a main stage with a huge dance floor that can accommodate 246.

The couple — both with a solid background in music, performance and the arts — signed a five-year lease on the second floor of the building that the City of Victoria purchased a year ago. He’s a serial entrepreneur; she runs an internationally touring salsa dance troupe and gigs around town as a baritone saxophonist.

“We didn’t do this because we think we’re gonna make money. We did this because we love live music and we cherish it,” says Smith.

In a town where it’s a struggle for musicians to find a place to present their work, Morrison is excited about creating the sort of community that live music fosters.

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“ We want bands to feel like stars.

We want them to feel like Grammy winners when they play here.”

“Going to see live music brings people from all different backgrounds together to enjoy a shared experience. Not a lot of things that do that … if you lose that, I don’t know where else you’re going to find it.”

Banking on the conviction that a city without live music is a dead one, that live entertainment builds culture and that treating bands and customers like VIPs results in sold-out shows, Smith and Morrison are ready to risk it in a business that can be unforgiving.

“We want bands to feel like stars,” says Smith.

“We want them to feel like Grammy winners when they play here. And we want to build up the value of musicians and make Victoria THE place people want to play on the West Coast.”

Local musicians Adrian Chamberlain and Pablo Cardenas both played The Coda on

its opening weekend and both came away impressed by the space and its new hosts.

“Christina and Al are really great people,” says Chamberlain. “Helpful. Enthusiastic.

Genuinely into the music. You can tell they really want to make a contribution to the musical community.”

Cardenas agrees. “Al and Christina were constantly checking on everything and taking care of every detail, and the staff is very friendly which really makes a difference … it’s an amazing start.”

Days before opening, Morrison was tickled by a conversation she overheard in a restaurant.

“Somebody said, ‘Oh, have you seen that new club across the street? It looks like it’s not from Victoria.’ ” Nor does it sound like it’s from Victoria.

CULTURE CALENDAR Music and more to help you slide right into summer.

May 1 to 4, various locations The city’s top design fair returns with serious talent from near and far, dozens of events (many of them free) and a brand-new hub located at The Rotunda, 1515 Douglas Street. designvictoria.ca

Legally Blonde: The Musical May 2 to 11, McPherson Playhouse

Oh my god, you guys! The musical adaptation of the 2001 smash hit movie Legally Blonde brings Elle Woods and her sunny savvy to town. Dress code: pink. rmts.bc.ca

Jessi Cruickshank: Now That’s What I Call Live Tour May 3, Royal Theatre

Called “the funniest woman on TV, period,” this Vancouver native got her start in an improv troupe alongside Seth Rogen and Nathan Fielder, then went on to host MTV’s hit The Hills: Live After Show with Dan Levy, Canada’s Smartest Person on CBC and Etalk on CTV. Her podcast Phone A Friend is currently the No. 1 comedy podcast. She’s funny. rmts.bc.ca

Champions of Magic: Chasing the Unbelievable May 7 to 9, Royal Theatre

Prepare to be dazzled, mystified and thrilled.

Following a decade touring the world as one of the most successful magic shows in history, the Champions return with an all-new, highenergy show of grand scale, mind-bending illusions and their signature humour. rmts.bc.ca

Cirque du Soleil: Crystal

May 8 to 18, Save-On-Foods Memorial Centre They’ve tackled water and fire while air is their natural medium, so it was only a matter of time before these amazing acrobats took to ice. In Cirque du Soleil’s 42nd creation, worldclass ice skaters and acrobats challenge the laws of gravity on a frozen playground. sofmc.com

Professor Alice Roberts: From Cell to Civilization

Midsummer Night’s Dream and New Works

Canada Day Celebrations: July 1

May 16 to 17, Royal Theatre

Ballet Victoria presents this witty and wonderful tour de force of fairies, humour and poetry. Perfect for the whole family. rmts.bc.ca

Mahesh Kale Live May 22, McPherson Playhouse

India’s National Award-winning vocalist has firmly established himself as the face of Indian classical music of the new generation, and brings his thrilling and inspiring show to an all-new audience. rmts.bc.ca

LINDSEY BLANE

Design Victoria

Barnyard Wine Fair

May 24, Save-On-Foods Memorial Centre Savour the natural, biodynamic and organic wines and ciders available in British Columbia at this wine festival celebrating the growers, makers and importers of unusual varieties, ancient winemaking techniques and thoughtful farming practices. barnyardevents.ca

The Sound of Music

May 29 to June 1, Mary Winspear Centre The hills are alive … with this beloved classic musical following the trials of the young postulant Fraulein Maria as she becomes governess to Captain Von Trapp’s seven children.

“Seven!” You probably know how this works out, but the songs are unforgettable and the optimism in the face of dark times never gets old. marywinspear.ca

TEDxVictoria: Ripples

June 10, McPherson Playhouse Returning after last year’s successful soldout show, TEDxVictoria offers another day of inspiration and insight, this time focused on the profound impact of small decisions, and featuring speakers who challenge perspectives, inspire change and ignite waves of transformation, both locally and globally. rmts.bc.ca

May 12, Royal Theatre

The Debaters

The acclaimed author, anthropologist and broadcaster — familiar from presenting over 100 shows on BBC and Channel 4 — hosts a state-of-the-art multimedia experience that will follow humankind’s journey from the first spark of life 3.8 billion years ago to the rise of early civilizations across the globe. rmts.bc.ca

Now in its 19th season on CBC Radio One, The Debaters is where comics go toe-to-toe in a battle of laughs and logic, hosted by Steve Patterson, two-time winner of Canada’s Best Male Stand-Up. Part stand-up, part quiz show, part comedy competition — all fun. rmts.bc.ca

June 17, McPherson Playhouse

TD Victoria International JazzFest ’25 June 20 to 29, various locations

Big names, rising stars, free shows in public parks — there truly is something for everyone. Just a few acts that caught our eye: the high-energy Canadian jazz-funk band Shuffle Demons, June 27 at The Coda, and New Orleans’ Grammy-nominated supergroup The Rumble, featuring Big Chief Joseph Boudreaux Jr., June 29 at Bullen Park. jazzvictoria.ca

BC Crabfest

June 29, Ship Point Nothing says summer like a crab boil by the water, especially when you can enjoy live music and family fun to go with. Head on down to this allday event, enjoy freshly caught Dungeness crab and celebrate the fishers who keep us well fed. bccrabco.ca/crabfest

Canada Day Celebrations

July 1, Inner Harbour, Gorge Road West We’re all feeling a little extra proud to be Canadian these days, so you can expect some extra-patriotic celebrations this Canada Day. All the traditional festivities are expected to return to the grounds of the British Columbia Parliament Buildings, plus the Gorge Canada Day Picnic will feature food trucks, a market, art works, live entertainment, canoe rides and so much more. canadadayvictoria.ca, gorgecanadaday.ca

Victoria Folk Music Festival July 5, Royal Athletic Park

New Festival Alert!

Organizers say this inaugural one-day event is the first step toward building a nationally recognized folk festival on the Island.

It features top names in a variety of folk traditions and styles, including Frazey Ford, Joel Plaskett, Harry Manx and Daniel Lapp’s BC Fiddle Orchestra.

Plus there will be artisan vendors, a music industry expo, a kids zone and loads of food and drink options. vicfolkfest.com

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PERSPECTIVE

By Joanne Sasvari

JEFFREY BOSDET/YAM MAGAZINE

Well, Well, Well

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You probably don’t think about your tap water all that much. After all, it’s always there when you need it, so why would you? But it’s worth taking a moment to consider how our water gets to us.

It starts as rainwater that’s captured in a reservoir in the Sooke Hills, then filtered through a well-protected watershed and fed by gravity to the city.

But it wasn’t always that way. When European settlers arrived in the 19th century, they relied on natural springs that flow under what are now paved city streets. Up on Fernwood’s Spring Ridge, they built wells that provided water to the growing community. Then, in 1866, when the Hudson’s Bay Company transferred ownership of Vancouver Island to the Crown, it dedicated its well on Spring Ridge to the people of Victoria, ensuring the city a free supply of fresh, public water — forever.

Or maybe not. Only a few years later, Victoria was drawing its water from Elk Lake and by 1915 was relying on the Sooke Lake Reservoir.

The Fernwood wells fell into disuse and, eventually, were lost to time.

Then, in 1979, a man named Bill Goers moved to town and was intrigued to learn that his Fernwood neighbourhood had once provided water for the whole city. Over the decades since, the Fernwood Community Well project has dug up the well’s history, found its spring and installed a pump.

Today Goers is the keeper of the pump — or at least its story. He encourages readers to visit the well site at the northwest corner of William Stevenson Park (just look for the plaque). Those who want to learn more can meet with community volunteers at 9 a.m. on the third Saturday of every month.

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