Wineries of veneto

WINERIES

OF

VENETO PABLO DE MELLO

VENETO, WHERE WINELOVERS FIND THEIR WAY!

WINERIES

OF

VENETO

photos and graphics Pablo de Mello 2014

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Wineries of Veneto

VENETO is a substantial and increasingly important wine region in the north-eastern corner of Italy. Administratively it forms part of the Triveneto zone, along with its smaller neighbors Trentino-Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. In terms of geography, culture and wine styles, it represents a transition between the alpine, Germano-Slavic end of Italy and the warmer, drier, more Roman lands to the south.

Veneto is slightly smaller than Italy’s other main wine-producing regions – Piedmont, Tuscany, Lombardy, Puglia and Sicily – yet it generates more wine than any of them. Although the southern regions Sicily and Puglia were for a long time Italy’s main wine producers, this balance began to shift north towards Veneto in the latter half of the 20th century. In the 1990s, southern Italian wine languished in an increasingly competitive and demanding world, while Veneto upped its game, gaining recognition with such wines as Valpolicella, Amarone, Soave and Prosecco.

With fruity red Valpolicella complementing its intense Amarone and sweet Recioto counterparts, Veneto is armed with a formidable portfolio of red wines to complement its refreshing whites such as Soave and sparkling Prosecco.

Although much of the new vineyard area which supported Veneto’s increased wine output was of questionable viticultural quality, today more than 25% of the region’s wine is made and sold under DOC/DOCG titles.

The Veneto region can be roughly split into three geographical areas, distinguished by their topography and geology. In the north-west the foothills of the Alps descend along the eastern edge of Lake Garda, their path mirrored

Introduction

7

{

VENETO IS AMONG THE FOREMOST WINE-PRODUCING REGIONS, BOTH FOR QUALITY AND QUANTITY. THE REGION COUNTS OVER 20 DOC

by the Adige river as it descends from the heights of Alto Adige. Here in the

and stylistically. Garganega and

cooler, alpine-influenced climate, fresh, crisp whites are made under the Bianco

Trebbiano are the key white-wine

di Custoza and Garda titles, while refreshing, unassuming Bardolino from the

grape varieties here, while Corvina,

shores of Lake Garda makes the case for Veneto’s lightest reds. Just east of the

Molinara and Rondinella are behind

lake and north of Verona is Valpolicella and its sub-region Valpantena: the fabled

the vast majority of reds.

‘Valley of Many Cellars’ produces half a million hectoliters of fruity red wine every vintage. In terms of production volume, Valpolicella is the only DOC to

and Padua, are the Colli Berici, Colli

rival Tuscany’s famous Chianti.

Euganei and Breganze. Although the

Immediately east of Valpolicella is Soave, home to the eponymous dry white

8

In central Veneto, around Vicenza

plains below these hills produce vast

wine which now ranks among Italy’s most famous products, and beyond that

quantities of wine, only the better-

Gambellara serves as an eastern extension of Soave, both geographically

quality wines from more elevated

Wineries of Veneto

Vineyard in Montecchio Maggiore, Colli Vicentini DOC zone

ZONES AND A VARIETY OF SUB-CATEGORIES, MANY OF ITS WINES, BOTH DRY AND SPUMANTI, ARE INTERNATIONALLY KNOWN AND APPRECIATED. areas have gained DOC status. International varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet

Whatever the future holds for

Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Nero and even Carmenere have proved

the region and its wine, the Vs of

successful here, as has northern Italy’s flagship white Pinot Grigio and Veneto’s

Veneto have made their mark on

own Tocai Friulano.

this era of wine history. The names

In the north-eastern corner of the region, on either side of the Piave river

}

Veneto, Verona, Vicenza, Valpolicella,

(which has its own Piave DOC covering the land between Conegliano and the

Valpantena and Valdobbiadene have

coast), sparkling Prosecco reigns supreme. Still wines are also made here (Lison,

emerged with vigor into the 21st

Lison-Pramaggiore, Montello e Colli Asolani and Colli di Conegliano), but the

century, and now even the historic

common factor which unites almost all viticultural zones in north-eastern

canal city of Venice has its own DOC.

Veneto is the Glera grape (typically known as Prosecco), and the foaming spumante and semi-sparkling frizzante wines it creates.

Introduction

9

ADRIATIC SEA

BREGANZE SOAVE VALPOLICELLA BARDOLINO

VIC

CUSTOZA VERONA

GAMBELLARA COLLI BERICI COLLI EUGANEI

P

BELLUNO VALDOBBIADENE

TREVISO

CENZA

PADOVA

VENICE

ROVIGO

WINE MAP

12

DOCG WINES

DOC WINES

- Amarone della Valpolicella - Bagnoli Friularo or Friularo di Bagnoli - Bardolino Superiore - Colli Asolani - Prosecco o Asolo - Prosecco -Colli di Conegliano - Colli Euganei Fior d’Arancio or Fior d’Arancio - Colli Euganei - Conegliano Valdobbiadene - Prosecco Conegliano - Prosecco or Valdobbiadene Prosecco - Lison - Montello rosso or Montello - Piave Malanotte or Malanotte del Piave - Recioto della Valpolicella - Recioto di Gambellara - Recioto di Soave - Soave Superiore

- Arcole - Bagnoli di Sopra or Bagnoli - Bardolino - Bianco di Custoza or Custoza - Breganze - Colli Berici - Colli Euganei - Corti Benedettine del Padovano - Gambellara - Garda - Lessini Durello or Durello Lessini - Lison - Pramaggiore - Lugana - Merlara - Montello - Colli Asolani - Monti Lessini - Piave

Wineries of Veneto

WINE LABELS

IGT WINES - Prosecco - Riviera del Brenta - San Martino della Battaglia - Soave - Valdadige - Valdadige Terradeiforti or Terradeiforti - Valpolicella - Valpolicella Ripasso - Venezia - Vicenza - Vigneti della Serenissima or Serenissima

- Alto Livenza - Colli Trevigiani - Conselvano - Delle Venezie - Marca Trevigiana - Vallagarina - Veneto - Veneto Orientale - Verona or Provincia di Verona o Veronese - Vigneti delle Dolomiti

Introduction

13

CONT

VALPOLICELLA

16

SOAVE

37

5

COLLI VI

TENTS

57

ICENTINI

89 BREGANZE

73 COLLI BERICI

V

alpolicella is the most

just style, however; in the past few decades

famous wine district in

Valpolicella has suffered from the same poor

north-eastern Italy’s

reputation as Beaujolais, the result of ever-

Veneto wine region. It’s

increasing yields and inconsistent quality.

not hard to understand

The Valpolicella production area

why, given the easy-drinking appeal of

ballooned in the late 1960s when it was

regular red Valpolicella, coupled with the

granted DOC status, resulting in a dramatic

prestige of its powerful and intensely

see-saw of quality and quantity which lasted

flavored counterpart Amarone della

for approximately 40 years. The prices

Valpolicella. The valley even produces white

fetched by Valpolicella wines reached their

wines – both dry and sweet – under the

nadir in the 1970s and 1980s, when the

various Soave titles.

low price paid per kilo of grapes led more

Everyday Valpolicella wine is a bright,

quality-focused producers, particularly

tangy, fruity red with aromas of blueberries

in the finer Valpolicella Classico and

and banana, and the distinctive ‘sour cherry’

Valpantena zones, to abandon their vines

note found in so many northern Italian

altogether. This increased the percentage

reds. It is as enjoyable at room temperature

of Valpolicella which came from the poorer

as it is slightly chilled, making it ideal as a

sites, and the downward spiral continued,

refreshing red for warm summer afternoons.

only to be halted by a sudden spike of

As a refreshing, medium-bodied wine it is

interest in Amarone della Valpolicella during

quite different from the district’s Ripasso,

the 1990s.

Amarone (‘big bitter’) and Recioto (‘little ear’) wines.

Stylistically speaking, Valpolicella might

The grapes used to make Valpolicella are Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Corvina is generally regarded as the finest of the

easily be viewed as the Italian answer to

three, and is certainly the most traditional.

Beaujolais. The comparison extends beyond

Rondinella proved popular in the 1960s and

VALPOLICELLA REGION ADIGE RIVER

FUMANE

MARANO VALGATARA GREZZANA QUINTO

ILLASI

NEGRAR

S. GIORGIO

S. FLORIANO

S. AMBROGIO

TREGNANO

CAZZANO COLOGNOLA

S. PIETRO

S. MARTINO PEDEMONTE

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Wineries of Veneto

VERONA

POIANO

and 1970s because of its generous yields, while pale, over-acidic, oxidation-prone Molinara has declined dramatically since its early surge. Corvina remains the grape of choice for higher-quality Valpolicella, and particularly Amarone della Valpolicella, Recioto della Valpolicella and Valpolicella Ripasso. On warmer, well-drained slopes, Corvina produces wines with more body than is traditionally expected of Valpolicella, which explains the huge quality differential between regular Valpolicella from the plains and Amarone from the hills of the traditional classico zone.

The Valpolicella viticultural area spans a considerable chunk of western Veneto, stretching north into the hills above Verona for approximately ten miles, and east to west for more than twice that distance, linking Soave with Bardolino. The finest terroir is to be found in the north of the classico zone, around the villages of Fumane, Marano and Negrar.

The hamlet of Gargagnago is also home to some of the region’s finest vines, although it is better known as the spiritual home of Garganega, the white grape behind the white wines of Soave and Gambellara.

The hills here rise more than 2000ft (610m) into the fresh sub-alpine air, creating a patchwork of aspects facing in every direction and making the most of the

*

northern Italian sunshine.

Because standard Valpolicella wines have traditionally tended towards the lighter end of the

VALPOLICELLA’S

spectrum, local winemakers have employed various

WINES ARE SOME

in their cuvees. The passito and ripasso methods

OF ITALY’S BEST KNOWN EXPORTS AND HAVE LONG BEEN ASSOCIATED WITH EMINENTLY DRINKABLE WINES

techniques to achieve greater depth and complexity have been so successful that both techniques now have dedicated DOC titles (DOCG in the case of the passito Amarone and Recioto wines). For a passito wine the grapes are dried out for weeks or even months prior to fermentation, during which time their natural sugars and flavors become sufficiently concentrated to produce deeper, more alcoholic wines. The ripasso method is to ‘re-pass’ (re-ferment) the passito grapes with standard Valpolicella wine, creating a deeper, more character-laden result. The style was given its own independent DOC title, Valpolicella Ripasso, in 2007.

Valpolicella

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CANT

MA

TINA

AZZI

I

lived in Florence for more than a year and made

Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella. These zones actually

some shy movements in the rich Tuscan wine

are counties placed in green valleys, and they are

world. There were some gorgeous trips to fine

situated between Garda Lake and Verona.

Cantinas as Frescobaldi and Verrazzano, placed

My first idea was to visit Cantina Bolla, one of my

in awesome castles in unforgetable zones. It was

favorite Italin wineries, but I realised that it is difficult

a first contact that touched me very deeply because of

to arrive without car. In my case, once I can’t drive

the passion and care with the wine industry is taken here

because my license is over, I should take a train to the

in Italy. I confess I felt in love almost immediately.

nearest train station and then go by bus or bike. After

Then, I moved to the north, to Vicenza, this lovely city inf the rich and gorgeous Veneto region. Slowly, I was

my eye: Cantina Negrar, in the county with the same

discovering all wine treasures they have around. And I

name, and part of the prestigious zone. Ok. The next

decided to explore them with more care and method.

step was to check the weather and plan it.

And then came the opportunity to visit Valpolicella

24

some research, I found a special winery that catched

Valpolicella’s name has unclear origins. It is said

zone. I had some difficult to find a Cantina to explore,

to be a latin name, Vallis-pollis-cellae, meaning ‘land

after all, there are more than 5 different regions that

of many cantinas’. Others says the name comes from

composes what became Valpolicella Classico: Fumane,

the latin word pullus and would be related to a place

Marano di Valpolicella, Negrar, San Pietro in Cariano and

with forests, with many plants. There is also policella

Wineries of Veneto

meaning many fruits. In any case, all of them shows us directly a region rich and fertile.

Valpolicella is being occupied since stone age because

For all this history, I thought a visit to the Cantina Negrar would be a rich experience. Well, unfortunatelly it was not like that. Only groups up to

its important connection from the Pianura, the Italian

10 people are allowed to visit all place. In my case, it

plain zone, to the Alps. In fact, there were found some

was only possible to make a degustation. For me it

traces of a Neanderthal man in a cave in Fumane. Later, it

would be fine. But when I just arrived, the reception

was inhabited by the Arusnati, an Etrusc people, and then

was rude and unpolite. My wife and I felt immediatly

by the Romans. There was always the presence of wine

discomfort and a lack of attention. So, we shot some

production in the zone due to its special terroir, a rich

pictures and left the place without taste nothing. The

blend of limestone and volcanic soil and also the mix of

day was beautiful and there is a cantina closed that I

warm and wet weather.

planned to visit. It is a beautiful place. All vineyards

This gifted combination of ground and weather gives

full. Well, as we arrived in Cantina Salgari, we were

advantages to the grape cultivation. And there are three

asked what we want. Hahahha. They were working in

special native fruits that makes all Valpolicella wines

the crop. Simple like that. There was no one to take

respected reputation: Corvina, up to 70% in Valpolicella

care of visitors at that moment. Strange and funny.

DOC blend, Rondinella and Molinara, both of them 15%

In this way, our wine trip suddenly was in risk.

of it.

However, we decided to walk a while. Those cantinas

Valpolicella

25

are in front of the movemented road. There were many tractors pulling carts full of grapes. We walk for a while

We immediately started to explore the area taking

and took a street where there was a charming oratory

photos when came Antonio, tall and very gentle,

between two cipresses. Few meters ahead, a beautiful

giving us the welcome. After all, we finally found our

church made our mind and we forgot the recent insucess.

place. So, we talked a while about the winery, the

There was a map indicating places and cantinas and we

grapes and the crop, the weather and came to taste

chosen to make a visit to one of them.

their products.

Strangely, things started to get better. As we were

Inside the shop, there were available Valpolicella,

walking, beautiful landscapes were coming to be shown.

Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone and

Many vineyards all around. A lovely old church just over

Recioto. It is an old room, fully decorated with

there with some marry decoration.

production wine related things and old bottles, the

And, crazy like this, we finally arrived to the Cantina

first ones made by his father. An amazing poster

Mazzi. It is a small winery in San Peretto fraction, a zone

designed by Manara, worldwide Italian cartoonist,

of the Negrar territory. It is led by the third generation of

famous for his trace and sexy stories, gave the final

the Mazzi family who started in 1960 by Signore Roberto

charming highlight. We took one poster, of course!

and now runned buy his sons, Antonio and Roberto.

The place is a lovely property almost hidden in the

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which was the storical purpose of the factory.

The experience was like climbing a mountain.

As we tasted the different wines, we could feel the

vineyards that houses a charming building where the

power of the Corvina and Rondinela grapes. The care

shop, the cellar, the restaurant and the bed and breakfast

of the drying and ageeing process. The velvet body

works; the winery and all its vats and a historic mill,

filling our mouths. And the conversation was very

Wineries of Veneto

pleasant either. Amarone completed the sequence with its complex and exquisite power. We ended it with the sweet Recioto, an Amarone wine with more sugar. Fantastic!

The next step was to visit the cellar. It is very particular, very charming, very well done in a traditional way. It was all we wanted to see. That

A FAMILIAR COMPANY RUNNING IN THE VERY HEART OF VALPOLICELLA

characteristc smell of umidity. Cold. Many old bottles in a rough place made by stone and bricks. And then coming all oak barrells. Amazing.

It s a prize to those who admires care and work, art and passion. Many photos later, we visited the inox vats and the producing zone. Its small size could keep its charm. Then we took some bottles, pay and left the place very satisfyed.

Minutes later, we took the bus back to Verona to have a lunch in the famous Antica Bottega del Vino restaurant, another fantastic experience.

Valpolicella

27

THE SHOP

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Wineries of Veneto

THE WINES

Valpolicella Classico

Valpolicella

Valpolicella Classico

Amarone della

Recioto della

Classico

Classico Superiore

Superiore “Poiega”

Valpolicella “Punta

Valpolicella “Le

Blend of Corvina,

“Sanperetto” 2012

Blend of Corvina,

di Villa”

Calcarole”

Rondinella and Molinara

Blend of Corvina,

Rondinella and Molinara

Blend of Corvina,

Blend of Corvina,

grapes.

Rondinella and Molinara

grapes crushed in

Rondinella and Molinara

Rondinella and Molinara

Of intense ruby red

grapes.

November.

grapes. The colour is

grapes. Of intense ruby

colour with fruity aromas

Ruby red in colour with

Of intense ruby red

deep ruby red with

red colour, with aromas

of cherry and ripe

aromas of cherry, violet

colour with aromas of

aromas of jam, dried

of red berry fruit jam

plum. The flavour is full,

and pepper. The taste is

cherry and ripe plum.

flowers, tobacco and

and spices. The taste is

balanced and persis tent

round, slightly tart with

The flavour is full,

chocolate which add to

round, warm and inviting,

with slightly bitter.

slightly bitter after taste.

balanced and persistent.

the velvety taste.

very persistent finish

13% Alcohol content.

13% Alcohol content.

14% Alcohol content.

15,5% Alcohol content.

with typical slightly bitter

Valpolicella

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THE CELLAR

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Wineries of Veneto

“ �

Mazzi has been producing wine in the Valpolicella region For 100 years, a family business that seems to get better with every passing generation their Valpolicellas are among the most respected of all.

T

he winery produces about a hundred thousand

bottles each year, ten of them of the precious Amarone, using stainless inox vats for fermentation and French oak barrels for ageing. The passito and passionamento processes are accurately used to get the perfect wine.

Valpolicella

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THE PRODUCTION

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Wineries of Veneto

THE OLD MILL

Valpolicella

33

CANTINA MAZZI SocietĂ Agricola Roberto Mazzi e Figli Via Crosetta, 8 - San Peretto 37024 Negrar (VR) Telephone +39 045 7502072 www. robertomazzi.it info@robertomazzi.it

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THERE ARE RECORDS PROVING THAT THE VINE WAS GROWN IN THE AREA SINCE ROMAN TIME. SOAVE WAS A QUITE IMPORTANT ROMAN VILLAGE ALONG THE VIA POSTUMIA, ONE OF THE MAIN ROMAN ROADS IN NORTHERN ITALY

S

oave is arguably the most famous white-wine DOC in Italy. Granted in 1968, the DOC title covers wines made from Garganega grapes grown on

the hillsides east of Verona, in the Veneto wine region of north-eastern Italy. A dry, crisp, fruity white wine, Soave’s naturally refreshing appeal led it to phenomenal popularity in the second half of the 20th century.

Ask any wine drinker to name a well-known Italian wine, and their answer will almost certainly be either Pinot Grigio or Soave.

Names such as Gavi, Orvieto and Frascati might also figure on the list, but the sheer volume of Soave which has made its way out of Veneto in recent decades has drowned out the competition. The fact that Pinot Grigio figures alongside Soave as one of the most famous Italian wines is a sign of the times. It is a sign of the power shift from Old World to New World, a change in focus from village to vine, terroir to varietal. For now, though, the DOC system survives, and is adapting year by year to the demands of the variety-led modern wine consumer.

As with Chianti, whose wine might be viewed as Soave’s red equivalent, the quantity of Soave wine produced every vintage is much more consistent than its quality. The natural temptation to drive for higher yields (and thus higher turnover) has led many Soave producers to favor volume over value, to the eventual detriment of the Soave brand. The consequences of this have taken many years to filter through, but the negative effects

SAN GIOVANNI ILLARIONE

SOAVE REGION

MONTECCHIA DI CROSARA

SOAVE SOAVE CLASSICO

MEZZANE CAZZANO RONCÀ ILLASI

MONTEFORTE LAVAGNO CALDIERO

SOAVE COLOGNOLA

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Wineries of Veneto

THE CHARACTERISTIC VOLCANIC SOIL OF THESE AREAS IS AN IMPORTANT ELEMENT IN THE CREATION OF A TYPICAL WELL BALANCED MINERAL PALATE.

are now being felt, and change is needed. In the hands of a quality-conscious producer Garganega can make classic white wines, both complex and satisfying; now that Trebbiano Toscano and Pinot Bianco have been removed from the official Soave blend, the variety’s natural potential can shine through. Garganega grapes must now constitute at least 70% of any modern Soave wine, accompanied by a maximum of 30% Chardonnay and Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio).

Although Soave is widely thought of as a still wine, there is also a foaming Soave Spumante version. The area also produces sweet wines under the Recioto di Soave DOCG. These are based on the same uvaggio (grape makeup) as standard, still, dry Soave, and the delimited production areas are also roughly the same.

The official catchment area for Soave wine production covers the communes of Monteforte d’Alpone, San Martino Buon Albergo, Mezzane di Sotto, Ronca, Montecchia di Crosara, San Giovanni Ilarione, San Bonifacio, Cazzano di Tramigna, Colognola ai Colli, Caldiero, Illasi, Lavagno and Soave itself. The production area was significantly expanded when the Soave DOC laws were drawn up, and it now covers about three times its former area.

Wines from the original, ‘classic’ Soave vineyard area are distinguished by the title Soave Classico. Wines labeled as Soave Colli Scaligeri are from hillside vineyards whose terroir is considered superior but which lie outside the official Soave Classico zone.

In order to address the falling quality of Soave wines, and to provide distinction between the quality levels, the Soave Superiore DOCG was drafted in October 2001 and put into effect as of the 2002 vintage. See Soave Superiore for details.

Soave

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CANT

MONTE

TINA

TONDO

T

here are some notorious wineries as Cantina del Soave and Monte Tondo. I

I jumped off the train and quickly arrived at the

thought with myself that I should come

center of San Bonifacio, a charming industrial city

back to fix that mistake. And visit another

near to Soave and Verona. Soon, I took the way to

place, La Cantina di Monforte d’Alpone, a

Soave and in few moments could smell that particular

small city very close to Soave that produces DOCs and

parfum of moist all around. Imediatelly, remembered

some DOCG as Valpolicella and Amarone. The reason

about a cantina in the way, Cantina dei Colli Berici

was that I tasted their fine Amarone and wanted to know

San Bonifacio. I tryed to visit them but it was at the

them better. The last step would be a magnificent villa

lunch time and everything was closed except the

in the top of a hill, La Favorita, that caught my attention

grapes discharge operations.

while I was coming to Vicenza by train in a previous moment.

The idea was to arrive in San Bonifacio by train and

Ok. Took my way back, passing through some beautiful spots as the old Villanova church. I read it was built over a pagan oak tree where druids made

then make all connections by bike finishing in Montebello,

their ceremonies before the Romans. Near, there is a

20 km from Vicenza.

huge abandoned factory, all bricked, really amazing.

So, the day was pretty beautiful and the sun still warm although blowed some cold wind announcing the winter coming. I was excited with the idea to drink and cycle in

44

that amazing zone.

Wineries of Veneto

Few meters ahead, we can see the firsts sights of the Soave hills.

Beautiful landscape. I took a road that crossed the

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THREE GENERATIONS HAVE HANDED DOWN THE PRECIOUS ART OF WINE-MAKING BORN FROM A LOVE FOR THEIR LAND AND THEIR ROOTS TOGETHER WITH THE KNOWLEDGE THROUGH HARD WORK AND DETERMINATION

busy A4 highway, connecting Milan to Venice, and in few

join a group of visitors that was arriving. We started

moments I arrived at the Monte Tondo winery.

with a light Soave Classico. Very good.

It is a big and charming yellow building surrounded by vineyards in the feet of the hills. Very suggestive location.

Monte Tondo is a respected winery that produces

Then, came some Casette Foscarin, another Soave and remarkably floreal. Next, their fine Amarone, very complex with a good finish. We also tasted the

many different wines, since basic Soave white wines

sweet Nettare di Bacco, an amazing Recioto, and

to Valpolicella’s Recioto, and also olive oil, honey and

finish it with another special Recioto, aged in the

grappa. They also run a bread and breakfast business

barrell with a particolary charater.

there.

In the main acess of the pavillion, an all brick space,

We started very well the journey. It was an interesting sequence of fine wines, each one keeping

there are some old wine prodution tools as mills, wood

high the reputation of the winery. The visit started

barrells and an ox car. Very interesting and pitoresque.

few later. Mrs. Marta was talking about the winey.

We enter the cantina by the shop, a large clean room

She is the second generation of the Magnabosco

with many stands disposing their products. Closed, there

family that started the production in the middle of

is the dinning room, where the tasting takes place and

the XX century. The company owns vineyards in

also the subterranean cellar.

Monte Tondo and Monte Foscarini hills, in Soave

Quickly, came Mrs. Marta to give me the welcome and talk about their history. I would make a tasting and then

and also in the Valpolicella zone. Nowadays, they produces about 200 thousand bottles every year.

Soave

45

THE SHOP

{

MONTE TONDO WINERY IS PASSIONATE THAT THEIR SOAVE SHOULD BE 100% GARGANEGA, AND WITH EXCEPTION TO CASETTE FOSCRIN ALL THEIR SOAVES ARE.

The, we arrived in the discharge area. Mrs. Marta

biggers for the Soave Classico. Curiously, there were

show us interesting aspects of the production cycle, from

some cups containing the different ground of their

its beginning until the aging. In that moment, there was

vineyards, some calcareous and volcanic earth from

none tractor bringing the grapes althoug there were

the Soave area and also from Valpolicella.

some everywhere.

She explained that they are allowed to take

Everything is very organized and clean. Then, we

their Corvina, Corvinona and Rondinella grapes to

arrived to the fermentation area where many high inox

be dryed there in Soave in order to produce their

steel vats keeps all wines. Unfortunatelly, we could not

Valpolicela different wines.

see the apassimento process because they were fixing a

The visit finished for me at that moment. It was

problem in that sector. I confess I was very curious to see

tme to say goodbye to Monte Tondo winery and take

their grapes. Ok.

the way to a quick visit to the city of Soave to take

Then, we visit the bottling sector and also the special

46

}

some pictures in a diferent angle. The panorama with

cellar, a very large space downstairs housing many

the road, the vineyards and the castle over the hill

French barrells. The smallers for Amarone and the

under that afternoon sun light is unforgetable.

Wineries of Veneto

THE WINES

M

onte Tondo are

vineyard is on ‘Monte Tondo Hill’

proud to produce

which is shown on the label.

bottle which adds a lovely richness.

Foscarin Slavinus is the only wine

wines from any

Monte Tondo produce a second

of their 25ha of

wine from the Soave DOC Classico

denominazione Soave Superiore

vines planted all

denominazione, however Casette

DOCG Classico. 100% Garganega

over Soave in the various zones of

Foscarin contains 10% Trebbiano di

this is a late harvest wine, end of

Soave.

Soave. When Monte Tondo inherited

October early November. Left to 30%

this vineyard the previous producer

fermentation in steel tanks the wine is

produced in 5ha of Soave DOC. 100%

had planted Trebbiano di Soave vines

then moved to oak barrels for 25 days

Garganega the Mito is an extremely

throughout the Garganega vines.

before it is moved back to tanks for

fresh wine with an intense nose of

Marta and her family kept the vines

the remainder of the year and aged in

peach and a wonderful acidity. A

to keep the history of the vineyard

bottle for 6 months before going to

perfect everyday wine!

intact. This vineyard also has small

market. This is a truly fantastic wine

Soave Classico is produced in a

houses throughout which the farmers

with an unbelievable richness, a palate

smaller denominazione within Soave,

have used for centuries to allow them

full of peach it is certainly a wine that

Soave DOC Classico. Again 100%

to harvest right up to darkness and

wouldn’t disappoint any wine lover.

Garganega this wine has hints of

avoid walking back to the village. This

almond on the palate, still maintaining

is the first wine that Monte Tondo age

Grigio which has all characteristics of

that wonderful freshness. The

before selling; 6 months minimum in

Pinot Grigio but in a Soave style.

Soave Mito is their entry level wine

Monte Tondo produce within the

Monte Tondo also produces a Pinot

Soave

47

THE MUSEUM

48

Wineries of Veneto

Soave

49

THE PRODUCTION

50

Wineries of Veneto

Soave

51

THE CELLAR

52

Wineries of Veneto

THE RESTAURANT

Soave

53

CANTINA MONTE TONDO Azienda Agricola Monte Tondo Via San Lorenzo, 89 37038 Soave (VR) Telephone +39 045 7680347 www.montetondo.it info@montetondo.it

V

icenza is a DOC of the Veneto wine region of north-eastern Italy.

Its name is that of Veneto’s fourth-largest

municipality and also of the eponymous province of which it is the administrative center. Geographically, it is the central V of the ‘three Vs’ which are collectively responsible for the vast majority of Veneto’s wine: Verona (by far the most significant of the three), Vicenza and Venezia.

The Vicenza DOC title, granted in 2000, covers almost the entire Vicenza province, including the land already covered by the Gambellara and Monti Lessini DOCs in the west and the Colli Berici, which occupy the southern fifth of the province (the hilly area immediately south of Vicenza town). Vicenza lies at the foot of the Colli Berici hills, whose northernmost point, Monte Berico, overlooks the town’s streets and houses.

The Basilica di Santa Maria di Monte Berico stands atop the hill, constructed around the year 1430 following two separate sightings of the Virgin Mary, who ordered the church’s construction.

The Bacchiglione river flows north-south through Vicenza, en route from the Alps to the Adriatic. The river’s water quality has recently fallen to dangerously low levels.

VICENZA DOC REGION

VICENZA

SOVIZZO CREAZZO

ALTAVILLA MONTECCHIO MAGGIORE

BACCHIGLIONE RIVER

The volumes of animal fertilizer washing into the river from its extensive watershed have caused the river to become highly contaminated. Although the province’s finer vineyard sites are located higher up on the slopes, there are a number of vineyards, notably around the southern side of Vicenza town, sufficiently close to the river to warrant attention.

The Vicenza wine portfolio holds few surprises for wine students. Its red and white (rosso and bianco) blends are a pre-requisite for modern Italian DOCs, and are based on Merlot and Garganega respectively. The varietals produced under the title are made from the usual suspects, and draw on both international and lesserknown local varieties. The reds are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Carmenere (these three may also be combined to produce the ‘varietal’ wine named ‘Vicenza Cabernet’), Merlot, Pinot Nero and the local favorite Raboso; the whites are Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Moscato, Riesling and two northern Italian specialties, Garganega and Manzoni Bianco. Interestingly, the Moscato may be made from Moscato Bianco and/or Moscato Giallo, and the Riesling can be either true German Riesling (known here as Riesling Renano) or Riesling Italico (Welschriesling).

CANT

COLLI VI

TINA

ICENTINI

*

A WINERYI N THE HEART OF AN AREA RENOWNED FOR ITS ANCIENT QUALIFIED VINE-GROWING TRADITION

C

antina Colli Vicentini is placed in

very particular. I started the tour in the shop. It is a

Montecchio Maggiore, a comune of the

huge warehouse with many boxes in the middle and

Vicenza’s Province, 11 kilometers far

some tables and shelves around. In a table, there

from Vicenza and very close to the road

are some bottle of different wines that you can

that leaves to Verona. It is a big cantina, a

experiment.

company that begun as a society of local grape producers and became an industry catalyzing the production into

clients can fill their bottles or carboy. It was funny

DOC products as Colli, Vicenza, Gambelara and Lessini

when came many clients pushing carts with bottles

wines.

up, chosen the desired wine and served themselves.

The visitor will find a big structure close to the Romeo castle – we can observe it behind – where the shop and offices comes first and the production local placed in the bottom.

Once we arrive is possible to get the intense smell of grape and its subproducts, something sweet, fruity and

64

Back, there were many self-service pumps where

Wineries of Veneto

Then, they weigthed the bottle and pay to the employee. Simple like that.

I waited all clients gone to ask the serious employee if I could help in the harvest. Well, he said it is being done by the local producers and they hardly pick outsider. Then, just left me to ask if could

visit the production area and take some some pictures.

pumped to be crushed, fermented, pressed, filtered

Hehehe!

and put in the barrels to age, well, the traditional

Ok, it was possible. And was very cool. I didn’t visited

method. It was nice to observe that almost sacred

all area because I was little bit embarassed to ask! But

moment once what I had view was those cool big

I could witness some downloads of grape. Comes the

wooden barrels with all wine. A lot information

tractor pushing a load car full of fresh Pinot Grigio grape

to reflex about the changing of the production

and it opens the lateral door from where comes all fruits.

technology and how important it is to the people who

First, the liquid and then the grapes. They were smaller

lives in these zones.

and almost all in a pale tone.

There were a lot of insects as spiders, flys and bees.

After this short moment, I returned to the shop, bought some bottles of Merlot and left the place

The workers were very kind. Well, actually they found

with my many ideas! It was a very nice visit although

my presence curiouns and funny, after all, who would be

I didn’t find that atmosphere I was expecting. Missed

interested to be there in a day like that just to watch that

the personal approach to the place that we find in

simple process? Yeah, makes sense!

smaller cantinas. That’s ok.

Once the grapes are unload to the big tub, they are

Colli Vicentini

65

THE SHOP

66

Wineries of Veneto

THE WINES

Merlot Vicenza D.O.C.

Tai Rosso Colli Berici D.O.C. 2010

Cabernet Vicenza D.O.C. 2010

Braio Rosso Venezie IGT

Vinification in red. The

Merlot Vicenza D.O.C. 2010

Wine obtained from

Wine obtained from

Vinification and

grapes are destemmed

Merlot grapes

Tai rosso authocthon

Cabernet grapes

refinement:The grapes

and pressed.

Vineyards:

grapes

grown in hilly vineyards

are carefully hand-

Fermentation with

Wine obtained from

grown on Colli Berici

in the province of

picked up and withered

maceration of the grape

Merlot grapes grown

(Berici hills), an area of

Vicenza. 12% Alcohol

in the Fruttaio for two

skins in steel autoclaves

in hilly vineyards in the

volcanic

Colour: intense ruby red

months. The vinification

under controlled

Province of Vicenza

origin and an ancient

Bouquet: typical and

is carried out through

temperature at 24째-

12% Alcohol Colour:

wine-making tradition

intense with hints of

a prolonged skin

26째C. Refinement in

bright ruby red

12% Alcohol

spices. Taste: full bodied

contact at a controlled

steel and wood.

Bouquet: intense and

Colour: light ruby red.

and velvety, properly

temperature. At the end

Colour: bright ruby

elegant with scents of

Bouquet: distinctive

tannic. It is pairs well

of the fermentation the

red. Bouquet: intense

berries Taste: velvety,

and pleasant with a

with roasted red meat,

wine is poured into oak

and elegant aroma with

round and full-bodied

reminding of cherry

game and mature

barrels and casks where

scents of berries. Taste:

with hints of green

Taste: dry, full and well-

cheese. Characteristics:

it waits for one year by

harmonious, round and

pepper.

balanced with pleasant

with a light reminding of

achieving smoothness

notes of red fruits.

cocoa.

and unique notes.

full-bodied flavours with hints of pepper.

14% Alcohol.

Colli Vicentini

67

THE PRODUCTION

68

Wineries of Veneto

Colli Vicentini

69

CANTINA COLLI VICENTINI SocietĂ Cooperativa Agricola Viale Europa, 151 Montecchio Maggiore (Vicenza) Telephone +39 0444 491360 www.cantinacollivicentini.it info@cantinacollivicentini.it

*

THE ALMOST MYTHICAL ORIGINS OF THESE ANCIENT HILLS WERE CREATED

BY THE WARM WATERS, NOW FOUND IN THE TROPICS, AND THE VOLCANIC ACTIVITY THAT FORMED THE LANDSCAPE WE ADMIRE TODAY. TOGETHER WITH THE TEMPERATE SEA CLIMATE AND THE PROTECTION OF THE MOUNTAINS, THE RESULT IS A VISUALLY STUNNING PANORAMA

C

olli Berici is a DOC of the

name are split evenly between red and

Veneto wine region in north-

white. The former category includes

eastern Italy. The title covers

Pinot Nero, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon,

a wide range of wine styles

Cabernet Franc, Cabernet (a combination

including red, white and rose

of the two), Carmenere and Tai Rosso.

(rosso, bianco and rosato) wines, a foaming

Their white equivalents are Chardonnay,

Colli Berici Spumante and a portfolio of

Garganega, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon, Tai and

varietal wines which reaches comfortably

Professor Luigi Manzoni’s Riesling–Pinot

into double figures.

Bianco hybrid Manzoni Bianco. For any of

The Colli Berici are a group of hills

these wines to bear the name of its variety,

(colli) which rise up from the alluvial plains

it must be made from at least 85% of the

just south of Vicenza, at the very heart of

stated grape.

Veneto. The name is taken from the hills’

Colli Berici Spumante is a metodo classico

most notable look-out, Monte Berico,

wine (made in the methode traditionelle),

which enjoys an impressive panoramic view

and comes in bianco and rosato forms.

over Vicenza city. The geological make-

Chardonnay must make up at least half of

up of the hills suggests they are part of an

these wines, with varying proportions of

ancient seabed, due to the prevalence of

Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero depending on

marine fossils (including corals, algae and

the desired color and flavor profile.

urchins) mixed with sand and mud as old as

Colli Berici Bianco comes not only in a

several million years. It also creates a terroir

still, dry form, but also in lightly sparkling

unlike almost any other in Veneto, whose

frizzante, foaming spumante and sweet,

topography is largely flat, and in which the

dried-grape passito forms. It is made from

only other hills are part of the lower Alps.

a minimum 50% base of Garganega, with

The Colli Berici cover roughly 64 square

the remaining proportion taken up with

miles (165 square km) of central Veneto.

any white grapes permitted under the

The most favored vineyard sites are on

DOC’s laws. Its Colli Berici Rosso equivalent

south-facing slopes with a high proportion

has Merlot at its core (also at a minimum

of gravels and marine deposits. This

of 50%), and comes in a youthful, early-

combination of a sunny, warm aspect and

drinking novello form and a pre-aged riserva

free-draining, mineral-rich soils is ideal for

form which must acquire an extra 2% final

creating full phenolic ripeness and mineral

alcohol and may only be released for sale

complexity in the Colli Berici wines. In

two years after harvest. The same riserva

fact, the Colli Berici DOC laws take care

conditions apply to each of the red varietals

to exclude land on the flood plains or at

made under this DOC.

the bottom of the valleys, and also land

The final wine style in this exhaustive

with peaty, sandy soils. The Colli Berici

portfolio is Colli Berici Barbarano, a title

mesoclimate is measurably milder than that

reserved for red wines (both still and

on the lower-lying land below; in fact it is so

spumante) from vineyards in the communes

mild that olive trees, more often associated

of Longare, Castegnero, Villaga, Mossano,

with warmer central and southern Italy,

Nanto and the Barbarano (Barbarano

flourish in the area.

Vicentino in full) cited in the title.

Varietals made under the Colli Berici

COLLI BERICI REGION VICENZA

BACCHIGLIONE RIVER

ARCUGNANO LONGARE BRENDOLA

MONTEBELLO

COSTOZZA

ZOVENCEDO

LUMIGNANO GRANCONA

CASTEGNERO BARBARANO

SAREGO

VILLAGA LONIGO

ALONTE

SOSSANO ORGIANO

*

THE D.O.C. WINE FROM THE BERICI HILLS CAN SATISFY EVEN THE MOST DEMANDING PALATE, PARTICULARLY IF ONE IS LOOKING FOR A COMBINATION OF BEAUTY AND ART FROM THE PALLADIO AND THE PRECIOUSNESS AND TASTE OF THE LOCAL CUISINE.

CANT

MUR

TINA

RARO

V

isit a winery of the Colli Berici would be my next target. But which one,

I live. It is about 12 km away. So, I decided with my

exactly? So, I found out Cantina

wife to make ‘una bella gita’, I mean, a beautiful trip

Muraro, a charming familiar winery

by bicycle. For our surprise, there is a fine bike lane

placed in Longare, a county of the

all the way, making it easy and delightful.

Province of Vicenza in the southeast of the Colli Berici.

Cycling in Italy is very funny and pleasant. There

It is a group of mountains that emerges in the Pianura

are many amazing routes to explore in all country.

Padana (the plain zone of the North of Italy) south

Here in Veneto, most of the territory is plain so it is

of Vicenza and northewst of Padova. It is a volcanic

easy to come and go to most of the cities. And there

formation that once was at the bottom of the sea

is a fantastic tradition of cycling. Everywhere you go

explaining the huge amount of fossils everywhere.

you can see people cycling, as sport or just going to

The limestone and other geological elements as water

work. It is quite safe. Drivers respect the bikers even

in the zone permits the millenary grape cultivation.

when you have to cycle in the side of the road. That’s

Today, the most popular varieties are the native Tai

why there are so many good bike brands here as

Rosso, Cabernet, Pinot and Merlot. The tradition and

Piranello or Willier. And, of course, that explains the

reputation of good production allowed the creation of

tradition of the Giro d’Italia, the most important bike

Vicenza DOC standard in 2000 and also the respected

competition together with Tour de France.

Colli Berici DOC.

80

Well, the cantina is not far from Vicenza, where

Wineries of Veneto

We took our bikes and quickly got the way to

*

“OUR LOCAL PRODUCTS WILL STARRING” S. MURARO

Longare passing by beautiful spots along the River

we were attended by Mr. Muraro, the son of the

Bacchiglione as the worldwide famous La Rotonda,

founder, and after gently words, he showed a little of

or Villa Capri, a fabulous palace designed by the

their place. The winery produces about 50 thousand

Renaissance architect Palladio. Few minutes later, we

bottles a year of different types of wine as Pinots

crossed the A4 highway that connects Milano to Venice.

Bianco and Grigio; Garganega and Chadornnay;

It was a beautiful evening. The day was quite clear and

Syrah, Barbera, Merlot, Cabernet and the Vicentine

the temperature very pleasant. Our way crossed many

native grape Tai Rosso. There are also some frizzanti

corn, grape and soy fields. Most of them already cropped.

wines as Prosecco and Moscato.

The amazing colors turning all to yellow and orange tones.

About half hour later, we finally arrived to the Winery

The winery is a very simple place, a full white stone pavillion, probably Pietra di Vicenza, a calcareous stone very used by Palladio in his projects.

Muraro, in Costazza zone of Longare. It is closed to the

There are many stainless inox vats each one full of

road and there are some vinyards around. This small

a different product. The crusher is placed inside the

company produces wines since the end of the 30’s in a

pavillion as well as the cellar. It is a very pitoresque

familiar ambient.

place without any glamour of the wine industry that

We arrived at the afternoon and there were some work going on. Some clients buying here, an employee discharging pounds of tai grape from a vat there and

we sometimes cross by.

We took some pictures around and took the way to Lumignano, another small city close to the rocks.

Colli Berici

81

THE PRODUCTION

82

Wineries of Veneto

Colli Berici

83

THE WINES

Vigna del Mago

Pinot Grigio

Cabernet

Wines aged in small

Wine made from white

Important wine of ruby

oak barrels. Made from

vinification of grapes of

red color with violet

Cabernet Sauvignon

the same name.

hues. The characteristic

and Franc in equal

Straw yellow with

herbaceous aroma,

proportion, as a young

greenish ashes.

with hints of fruits

looks red ruby.

Delicate, fruity

of raspberry and

To the scents of vanilla

reminiscent of ripe pear.

blueberry detect the

and wood are added

The taste is full and

strong character.

those of underbrush,

harmonious indicates

The flavor is dry, robust,

musk and wild plums.

it in good company of

tannic, it goes well with

The taste is full, vinous

appetizers, light pasta

tasty meat, poultry,

long.

dishes, preparation of

game and aged cheeses.

fish, especially those salted or in foil.

CANTINA MURARO Az. Vit. Muraro Severino di Muraro Via Ponte di Costozza, 117 36023 Longare (VI) Telephone +39 0444 555137 www.cantinamuraro.it murarovini@libero.it

B

reganze is an ancient viticultural center in the Vicenza province of Veneto, north-eastern Italy. The area’s Breganze DOC,

awarded in 1969, covers red (rosso) and white (bianco) wines, and the well-respected Torcolato.

The Breganze growing area is located in Veneto’s viticultural no-man’s land.

It is entirely distinct, stylistically and geographically, from every other Veneto DOC. Breganze town itself lies precisely 33 miles from Treviso to the east and Verona to the west, almost as if to reinforce its distinction from the Prosecco and Valpolicella/Soave zones respectively.

A wide range of varietal wines are made under the Breganze DOC title, from a combination of local and international grape varieties. The reds are Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir), Marzemino, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Each of these comes in a higherquality riserva form, for which the wine must come from vineyards managed to lower yield tolerances and be aged for at least two years before commercial release.

The white Breganze varietals are Vespaiolo, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and Tocai (now named Tai to avoid confusion with the famous sweet wines of Tokaj).

Standard Breganze Rosso is made from a base of Merlot (at least 50%), while its bianco counterpart is based on Tai (also a required minimum of 50%). These are typically produced in light, dry styles, not so much out of choice but because the climate in this part of Italy is particularly cool and the growing season correspondingly short.

BREGANZE REGION

CALZANO

BASSANO DEL GRAPPA

CALVENE LUGO ZUGLIANO

SALCEDO

FARA BREGANZE

THIENE

MAROSTICA

SARCEDO MONTECCHIO

BRENTA RIVER SANDRIGO ASTICO RIVER

*

GRAPE VINES HAVE BEEN GROWING IN THE BREGANZE AREA SINCE PRE-HISTORY AND REFERENCES TO GROWING VINES ARE PRESENT IN TRADE CONTRACTS DATING BACK TO THE PERIOD BETWEEN 1300 AND 1600, AND EVIDENCE SUGGESTS THAT BREGANZE HAS BEEN RENOWNED FOR ITS QUALITY WINES SINCE THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. THE AREA OF PROVENANCE OBTAINED THE D.O.C. DESIGNATION IN 1969.

CANT

MACU

TINA

ULAN

C

antina Maculan was the next target in

that is near – it takes 30 minutes by train till Thiene

my explorations around Vicenza. This is

and then more 45 pleasant minutes by bike to arrive

a cool medium cantina that have been

there.

producing fine wines in Breganze, a lovely place in Veneto, neaar to Vicenza, in the

feet of the Italian Pre Alpine Mountains.

My first opportunity to drink something made by

mostly corn and grape, with the Astico River to separate Thiene to Breganze and the mountains behind completing the scene. There are some

them was at the early 2014, a fine and dry Vespaiolo

gorgeous villas designed by the famous Renaissance

white wine, when I confirmed their good reputation as

architect Palladio around as Villa Godi, reforcing the

local producers of a respectful wine.

pitoresque atmosphere.

I was planning my next wine trip and considered to

96

This is a beautiful landscape, with a lot of crops,

I jumped in Thiene, another charming city around,

visit Valpollicella. But the wheather was completely

and crossed it quickly till get a road that took me

mad during that summer. We are not able to plan safely

to the Astico River, one of the many rivers formed

and all we can do is enjoy the moment. So, the day was

by the melted snow from the Alps. I had to stop the

pretty fine and I considered to make a visit to Breganze

journey to feel the temperature of the water: it was

Wineries of Veneto

*

THREE GENERATIONS HAVE HANDED DOWN THE PRECIOUS ART OF WINE-MAKING BORN FROM A LOVE FOR THEIR LAND AND THEIR ROOTS TOGETHER WITH THE KNOWLEDGE THROUGH HARD WORK AND DETERMINATION

just perfect to a dive! Unfortunatelly, I had no underwear

Today, it offers more than 15 different types of wine

to do that! Maybe next time! The day was beautiful but

as reds, whites and sweets with a very respectful

suddenly came many darks clouds promising heavy rain.

reputation.

It made me move.

The first part of the crop, the vendemmia, is nearly

About 15 minutes later, I arrived to the entrance of

over, she explained. The white grapes and the pinots

the city. There is a big cantina in the beginning of the city

have been collected these last weeks and next comes

close to the center, Beato Bartolomeo, that I couldn’t visit

the red grapes. So, there were some tractors pulled

this time, and then the charming square with some art

with their cars full of grapes – ok, that moment, all

noveau houses, some caffes and a beautiful neoclassic

grapes were already taken and processed!

church with its tall steeple. I still had time to walk around.

Next, we entered the Cantina Maculan, a beautiful

Cantina Maculan nowadays produces about 200 thousand bottles, making it a medium cantina. It is

building in the corner just close to the main square,

a reflex of the new approach of the next generation

where the very kind Mrs. Luisa took us for a walk around

of the family, who passed some time in France and

the place. The winery is runned by the third generation of

US observing the modern producing methods. They

the Maculan family, who started to produce in the 30’s.

thought a new way, reducing the quantity in order to Breganze

97

*

BREGANZE DOC, THIS IS ONE OF ITALY’S UNSUNG DOC HEROES, LARGELY DUE TO THE EXCELLENCE OF MACULAN.

improve the quality of the product. The first thing they

flavours and bouquets of the product and can easily

did was to buy land to develop their own plants. Today,

been cleaned. We also visited the bootling sector,

the family owns abous 80 hectares between Thiene and

very interesting. Then, the storage and, finally, the

Bassano del Grappa. They still takes grapes from local

aging cellar, very charming and traditional. Many

producers to complement the crop. Most of the sells,

oak French barrels storage with fine wine waiting to

about 60%, is still made to the Italian market but they are

be sorved. Amazing! The cellar also keeps some old

working hard to increase the foreign sell to new clients as

producing tools and artistic decoratd barrels.

Russia, China and USA. Most of the vineyards are placed in the mountains,

tasting moment. And Luisa was very kind serving

where the terrain is compound mostly by volcanic

their best, a very fine Fratta 2009, a red velvet wine,

ground, giving the grapes a special character. It is the

intense floral and tasteful one. I choose some bottles

same kind of terrain of the mountains that comes

to take away as a 2011 Palazzotto, that we’ll talk later

from Garda Lake, passing by Bardolino, Valpolicella

and also a Rosato.

and Soave zones. The grape types most produced by

Yes, it was a special visit. We could feel one more

Cantina Maculan are Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot, Tai and

time the intense care with the wine production is

Chadornnay.

taken here in Veneto. Care, love and state of art, all

The visit took all production system, beginning with the collect of the grapes, the crushing, blending and aging. There are many big steel vats, that keeps al the

98

Before we left, there was the final prize. The

Wineries of Veneto

about wine.

THE WINES

Salgarone 2012

Bidibi 2013

Brentino 2012

Dindarello 2013

Fratta 2010

Merlot 100%

60% Tai and 40%

55% Merlot and

100% Moscato

a blend of Cabernet

Fermentation in

Sauvignon

45% Cabernet

Aging in bottle for three

sauvignon and Merlot

stainless steel tanks

Aging in stainless steel

Aging half of the wine

months. On the nose,

grown in very best, low-

Aging for three months

tanks for six months

for one year in stainless

intensely aromatic

yielding vineyards

on the yeast in stainless

Color a straw-yellow

steel tanks and half in

notes so true to the

Aging for one year

steel with malolactic

On the nose, intensely

French oak barriques,

variety: grapes, honey

in new French oak

fermentation

aromatic with

1/3 new oak. Color a

and orange blossoms

barriques. In the mouth

Color aintense ruby red

refreshing notes of ripe

deep ruby-red. On the

In the mouth, sweet on

a balanced expression

On the nose, intense,

tropical fruit, citrus and

nose, seductive aromas

the palaet, balanced and

of fine-grained tannins,

young, a light

fresh cut grass

of blackberries and

fullbodied, yet

and full-bodied,

herbaceous hint and a

In the mouth, dry and

dark cherries, along

simultaneously fresh

flavourful elegance.

nice blackberry note

well-rounded on the

with hints of cedars

and lively,

On the nose, the wine

In the mouth, rich,

palate with vibrant

and forest from the one

with a long and

carries intense aromas

meduim body, brilliant

acidity and pleasantly

year of aging in French

persistent finish.

of red berrei, bilberries

acidity, red fruits notes,

persistent finish.

barriques. In the mouth

and raspberries, along

the wine is dry and

with spicy notes of

full-bodied with its firm

cocoa and coffee.

well balanced.

tannic backbone.

Breganze

99

THE PRODUCTION

100

Wineries of Veneto

Instead of being made using “international” grape varieties (such as the now ubiquitous Pinot Grigio) and made with an eye to quality (rather than quantity), previous tastings of the Maculan

>>

family’s wines have revealed wines of character and accomplishment, rather than uniformity and dreariness! The indigenous grape variety behind this wine is Vespaiolo. Named after the wasps (“vespa”) that the grapes typically attract towards the end of the summer, Vespaiolo is probably better known as grape variety that is used in making sweet dessert wines (rather than dry whites such as this example), although if the grapes are harvested early enough to limit sugar levels, interesting dry styles of wine can be produced.

Breganze

101

THE CELLAR

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Wineries of Veneto

Breganze

103

CANTINA MACULAN Maculan srl Via Castelletto, 3 36042 Breganze (VI) Telephone +39 0445 873733 www.maculan.net info@maculan.net

No trip to Italy would be complete without an opportunity to visit some wineries and taste their best wines. Italy produces some of the very finest wines in the world and Veneto is the place where they took their drink to a very state of art.

EVIVA!