A Day in London Mag #1

Cool things to do in London . September 2015

The Thames national gallery shoreditch borough market gordon’s wine bar

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A day in London

Few Words ello. Come on. Let’s talk for a while. Let me introduce ourselves. You are a curious wanderlust searching some cool stuff about London. Probably.

And we are actually living in this unbelievable city.

Fact. Nice to meet you. What do you know about London? It is expensive? Yes, it is. It is cute? Oh yes.

And also tough? True. Too much rainy? Sure. London is one of the greatest cities of the world. A major financial capital. An arts hub.

A cultural melting pot. A Babel Tower. Fancy fashion trendy cool mega city of contrasts. Stone and bricks and marble and gorgeous parks and elegants palaces. A natural shelter for billionaires and royals. To live in this multiface city is to live diversity in pure state. So much to do. So much to see. So much to eat and drink.

So, let’s explore a little bit of London. Every month we are going to show some amazing spots and talk a little bit. In the first edition we talk about the importance of the River Thames. Then, we run the corridors of the National Gallery and the streets of Shoreditch.

We’ll make a pit stop to eat something in Borough Market and take a cup in Gordon’s Wine Bar. Enjoy it!

Contents A Walk

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Take a walk along the Thames River

Culture

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Get shocked at the National Gallery

Shop Shoreditch, the hotspot for quirk stuff

To Eat Choose your tidbit at Borough Market

To Drink Back in time at Gordon’s Wine Bar

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Photographs & graphic design Pablo de Mello

A day in London

THE THAMES I LIVE BY THE RIVER The longest river in England. A main gate for explorers and invasors.

A visceral trade and communication artery. Cornerstone of London’s foundation. Well, the relationship between the Londoner and the river is deep and intense. Join us in the exploration of its most important spots

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...England belong’s to me, a nation’s

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hink of London. The tradidion. The wealth. Its most important buildings.

Tower of London. Big Ben. Tower Bridge. Beneath all these remarkable

stands perhaps the most imporant feature of the city: its River Thames.

The experience of the river- the sound of the waves, the birds, the fish, boats and yes, even the annoying aeroplanes, made this an unique experience.

I love looking at the river from above, from the plane arriving into Heathrow, and feel good to see the majesty of its distinctive curvy shape. When one is on the riverboats, due to these curves, it is difficult to orient oneself. From certain points, what is on the left bank looks like it is on the right bank and vice versa.

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The Londoner’s spirit is totally defined by Thames’s waters

The particular experience of seeing the river from the London Eye gives yet an entirely different perspective- at different levels. Yet sadly, the city until now has looked away from its river rather than look at it. If one looks at other cities of the world where there is water such as the canals of Venice or Amsterdam or cities with rivers, such as Rome or Florence, the river front is alive and the city looks into it. Even bridges across the Thames are used in a functional sense, to get from one bank to the other, not to stroll across, not to rest, not to have fun- only to walk across. Also, it is almost as if the buildings have made it difficult to get to it. Yet the river created the city. Look at the plan of London through the ages. What is it that has remained constant throughout? The river Thames.

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s pride the dirty water on the rivers...

Statistically, the Thames does not feature in even the

near the sea and they could bridge the river Thames

top 50 of the worlds rivers. For example, the Nile is a

here as well as the rivers Fleet and Walbrook. They

spectacular 4160 miles long. But in terms of history,

built a fort near Cripplegate. By 140, London, circled

the river is one of the greatest in the world. The

by a wall, was the capital of Roman Britain. After the

Thames is also the tongue of London which brings

decline of Roman Britain, the town was menaced by

fresh air into the city. Fresh air from Southend travels

Franks, Picts, Scots and Saxons. When the Normans

in with the tides twice each day while the stale air is

invaded in 1066, they built the Tower where the

pulled out by the ebb of the water. As an ecological

Roman wall met the river so that they could defend

entity, the river was, in the past, a wilderness of

the city from the east. The City of London became

marshes and reed beds, harbouring vast populations of

a powerful centre for crafts with mediaeval Guilds

birds.

and Livery companies. The river provided a means of The river provided a route for settlers and

transport for boats, almost 3500 annually, that carried

invaders. As a settlement, London barely existed

goods and people. London was the largest port in

before the arrival of the Romans. They found the

the country. In many respects, it resembled a seaside

location of London very convenient- they could be

town, spreading from Westminster to the Tower with

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WESTMINSTER ABBEY

WESTMINSTER PALACE

Westminster Abbey is the mainly Gothic

The Palace of Westminster is the meeting

abbey church in London and is located just

place of the House of Commons and

to the west of the Palace of Westminster.

the House of Lords, the two houses of

It is one of the most notable religious

the Parliament of the United Kingdom.

buildings in the United Kingdom and has

Commonly known as the Houses of

been the traditional place of coronation

Parliament after its occupants, the Palace

and burial site for English and, later,

lies on the northern bank of the River

British monarchs. Since 1560, however,

Thames. Its name, which derives from the

the building is no longer an abbey nor a

neighbouring Westminster Abbey, may

cathedral, having instead the status of a

refer to either of two structures: the Old

“Royal Peculiar” – a church responsible

Palace, a medieval building complex that was

directly to the Sovereign.

destroyed by fire in 1834, and its replacement, the New Palace that stands today.

THE LONDON EYE

BIG BEN

London Eye is centrally located in the

Big Ben is the nickname for the Great Bell

heart of the capital, gracefully rotating over

of the clock at the north end of the Palace

the River Thames opposite the Houses of

of Westminster and often extended to refer

Parliament and Big Ben. At 135 metres, it is

to the clock and the clock tower. The tower

the world’s tallest cantilevered observation

holds the second largest four-faced chiming

wheel; a feat of design and engineering,

clock in the world and was completed in

it has become the modern symbol

1858. The tower has become one of the

representing the capital and a global icon.

most prominent symbols of the United

The experience showcases breathtaking

Kingdom and is often in the establishing

360-degree views of the capital and its

shot of films set in London.

THE THAMES

famous landmarks and has been the number one visitor experience in the city for the past decade.

TATE MODERN

THE GLOBE

Tate Modern is Britain’s national gallery

The Globe Theatre was a theatre in

of international modern art and forms

London associated with William Shakespeare.

part of the Tate group. It is based in the

It was built in 1599 by Shakespeare’s playing

former Bankside Power Station. Tate holds

company, the Lord Chamberlain’s Men and

the national collection of British art from

was destroyed by fire on 1613. A second Globe

1900 to the present day and international

Theatre was built on the same site by June 1614

modern and contemporary art. Giants as

and closed in 1642. A modern reconstruction

Picasso, Rothko, Twomble, Mirò and

of the Globe, named “Shakespeare’s Globe”,

many others can be appreciated by the

opened in 1997 near from the site of the

crowd os tourists and art lovers.

original theatre.

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THE TOWER OF LONDON

CANARY WHARF

The ancient stones reverberate with dark

It is the new financial centre located in the

secrets, priceless jewels glint in fortified

East End of London. It is worth visiting this

vaults and pampered ravens strut the

outstanding example of regeneration which

grounds. The Tower of London, founded

provides a first class working, shopping and

by William the Conqueror in 1066-7, is

leisure environment. It is a showcase of

one of the world’s most famous fortresses,

many modern architectural styles set in the

and one of Britain’s most visited historic

old docklands environment. There are two

sites. Despite a grim reputation as a place of

large upmarket shopping malls providing

torture and death, there are so many more

a wide variety of goods, and there are

stories to be told about the Tower.

numerous bars and restaurants. The shops

This powerful and enduring symbol of the

and most bars and restaurants are open

Norman Conquest has been enjoyed as a

seven days a week until late evening.

royal palace.

TOWER BRIDGE

HAMES: A GUIDE FOR THE HOT SPOTS

One of the most recognizable bridges in the world, Tower Bridge was built 120 years ago in the Gothic Style to ease road traffic while maintaining river access to the busy Pool of London docks. Built with giant moveable roadways that lift up for passing ships, it is to this day considered an engineering marvel and beyond being one of London’s favourite icons, it is arguably one of the most famous and instantly recognisable structures in the entire world.

THE SHARD

BOROUGH MARKET The View from The Shard is the

Borough Market is a wholesale and

premium visitor attraction at the top of

retail food market in Southwark. It is one

Western Europe’s tallest building, and

of the largest and oldest food markets in

London’s newest landmark, The Shard.

London. Stallholders come to trade at the

Designed by Master Architect Renzo

market from different parts of the UK and

Piano, the Shard redefines London’s

Europe. Amongst the produce on sale are

skyline and has become a dynamic symbol

fresh vegetables, cheese, meat, game and

of London. At a height of up to 800ft or

freshly baked bread and pastries. There is

244m, a spectacular views over London for

also a wide variety of street food on sale for

up to 40 miles. Twice as high as any other

lunchtime visitors. Market has become a

vantage point in the city.

fashionable place to buy food.

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the river being the means of communication, drainage and water supply.

Henry VIII was responsible for many changes to London including the addition of palaces and hunting grounds like Green Park, Hyde Park and St James’s Park. He was also responsible for the south of London becoming a cultural area. Except for Southwark, most of the land had remained unbuilt as it was marshy. So, all activities that were banned in the north were banished to the south of the river.

Cock fighting, bear baiting and all the theatresthe Rose 1587, the Swan and the Globe 1599- and public execution were the prime attractions at Southwark, providing diversions for Londoners. The

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What an unique experience see the sundown on a bridge

river again acted as a means of dividing the city, along political and social lines. But, by 1610, the water was no longer fit for drinking and the New River Company was established to supply clean water to the general population In the Stuart period, London’s only bridge was London Bridge and so it remained until 1738 when Westminster Bridge was built. Most jetties were on the north side, keeping power on the northern side. But despite its wealth, the north side was crowded, disease ridden and with open drains flowing into the river.

As usual, great tragedies -the Great Plague in 1665 and the Great fire in 1666 provided these architects with good work loads. Also, the westward

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he River Thames may take its name from the Sanskrit Tamas meaning “dark” as its waters are often dark and cloudy; another school of thought is that it is named after the Roman Tam meaning “wide” and Isis meaning water.

expansion of the city started as some of the earlier

landmark buildings along the

occupants of east London did not return after the

Thames including the Bankside

fire, preferring to settle in the leafier, open squares

and Battersea power stations,

in Kensington ands elsewhere. By the end of the

Waterloo Bridge and County

17th century, London had been transformed from

Hall. The Dome and now the

a timber-built mediaeval port into a classical city,

London Eye as well as the Tate

made of bricks and mortar. But for the poor of

Modern provide new focal

London, misery continued, especially with the

points on the Thames. The

water supply.

Docklands area, built in the

There are 33 bridges spanning the river,

19th century, has seen dramatic

the most recent, the Millennium bridge spanning

new buildings with the business

between the Tate Modern Gallery and St Pauls

complex of Canary Wharf.

having been inaugurated and then closed due to swaying. There are 8 tunnels under the river. The 20th century saw the building of many of the

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The Thames is 215 miles in length from source to sea?

The Thames flows through 16 cities and key towns?

The Thames is England’s longest river?

During World War II the protection of the Thames was critical to the defence of the Britain

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This impressive neoclassical buildin collections of Western European pai

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ith some 2300 European

and Covent Garden. And just in front of, stands the

paintings on display, this is

huge monument to one of the English, Lord Nelson.

one of the world’s richest

So, it is a massive overcrowded spot to explore but

art collections, with seminal

worth every minute spent there. Outside the museum,

paintings from every important epoch in the history

many street artists exhibit their works in a nicely rich

of art – from the mid-13th to the early 20th century,

atmosphere.

including works by Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Titian, Van Gogh and Renoir.

Definitely, one of the most remarkable

The Gallery started life in 1824 when the British Government purchased 38 pictures belonging to the banker John Julius Angerstein. As there was no

attractions of London, it will get your breath away

suitable space available to display the collection, the

while you walk through many rooms and galleries

pictures were put on display in Angerstein’s former

exhibiting the finest works.

home in Pall Mall. It was only in 1838 that the

The museum is placed in a central spot, close

collection moved to its current site. The neoclassical

to many important points of the city. In five minutes

building that now houses the museum was completed

walking, you get the Westminster, the Thames River

after a much-criticized design by English architect

and Leiscester Square. 10 minutes are Hyde Park

William Wilkins. It was built at the then still to be

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SHOCKING AT THE NATIONAL GALLERY

ng displays one of the world’s finest intings. developed Trafalgar Square, which had just been cleared.

Many visitors flock to the East Wing (1700–1900), where works by 18thcentury British artists such as Gainsborough, Constable and Turner, and seminal Impressionist and post-Impressionist masterpieces by Van Gogh, Renoir and Monet await.

Don’t overlook the astonishing floor mosaics in the main vestibule inside the entrance to the National Gallery.

The modern Sainsbury Wing on the gallery’s western side houses paintings from 1250 to 1500. Here you will find largely religious paintings commissioned for private

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One of the world’s richest art collections, with seminal paintings from every important epoch in the history of art

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devotion (eg the Wilton Diptych ) as well more unusual masterpieces such as Botticelli’s Venus & Mars and Van Eyck’s Arnolfini Portrait . Leonardo Da Vinci’s Virgin of the Rocks , in room 57, is a stunning masterpiece.

Works from the High Renaissance (1500–1600) embellish the West Wing where Michelangelo, Titian, Raphael, Correggio, El Greco and Bronzino hold court; Rubens, Rembrandt and Caravaggio grace the North Wing (1600–1700). Notable are two self-portraits of Rembrandt (age 34 and 63) and the beautiful Rokeby Venus by Velázquez.

Adjacent to the National Gallery is the National Portrait Gallery, which presents paintings portraying prominent English persons such as Sir Christopher Wren and Churchill. It is the most important museum of its kind.

Defintely, an unforgetable experience and fundamental to everyone.

The National Gallery Address: Trafalgar Square Site: www.nationalgallery.org.uk Open 361 days a year free of charge Tube station: Charing Cross

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ake your time contemplating paintings by French Impressionists such as Monet or Seurat

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SHOREDITCHIN An unmissable jaunt through London’s best gallery – the streets

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triangle of influences have made

fashionistas from Hackney and Shoreditch make

Shoreditch into one of London’s

their own clothes with fabrics from sari shops,

most distinctive and unusual areas.

and traditional cockney butchers share space with

To the East, Bangla-town and

exclusive delicatessens.

Brick Lane – London’s celebrated curry mile –

Some say Shoreditch has had its day, that

are a riot of smells and colours from the Indian

London’s trendy brigade have moved on. If you go

sub-continent. In the West, the looming towers of

to Brick Lane Market, though, it doesn’t look that

Liverpool Street and the City represent the world’s

way. The weird and wonderfully dressed hordes

most concentrated area of money-making talent,

keep coming to the rough triangle made up by

where a number of sophisticated business hotels

Old Street, Great Eastern Street and Shoreditch

have sprung up. And right in the middle of it all is

High Street, packing into ramshackle bars and

Spitalfields market, a citadel of the working classes

independent shops. Despite the spread of affluence,

and home of the cockney music hall tradition. The

much of the area maintains its original gritty,

result is an area where trendy bars sit next to cut-

urban edge; many of the walls and shop fronts are

price Bangladeshi restaurants, where artists and

plastered with graffiti.

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Shoreditch has recently become

personality Boy George opening a

one of London’s trendiest districts,

fashion boutique, B-Rude, in The

together with its neighbour Hoxton.

Clerk’s House, a notable building in

A new wave of young professionals

the High Street. Entertainment has

has moved into Shoreditch, sending

long been a speciality of Shoreditch,

property prices sky-rocketing in

the location, in the 1500s, of

what was once a working-class

England’s first theatre, and then a

stronghold between Old Street

Shakespearian playhouse. These are

and Bethnal Green. The boom

marked by plaques in Curtain Road

was kick-started by Damien Hirst,

and Hewitt Street respectively. Later

Tracey Emin and the other Young

it became a centre for Victorian

British Artists who moved here

music hall. Shoreditch was once

in the early Nineties, followed by

famed for its textile and furniture

scores of creative bohemians. Today,

industries, the latter revisited

Shoreditch is jam-packed with lofts,

through exhibits in the local Geffrye

galleries, chic bars and restaurants,

Museum.

coffee shops and clubs, with pop

The “MustDo” walk in London

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Though Brick Lane Market is an entity (and attraction) in itself, the banner has grown to encompass a motley array of markets in and around the East End hotspot. Brick Lane Market proper is where to head for tools, household goods and bargain fruit and veg sold by the bowl. Vendors without a proper stall often line Brick Lane, their wares (dodgy old videos, broken dolls, CD players) set up on blankets. Bric-abrac traders morph into indie clothes and accessories designers as you hit Backyard Market, housed in a warehouse building opposite Dray Walk.

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Choose your dirbi oldest and charm

BOROUGH

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it in the London’s ming food market

MARKET

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The market specialises in high-en there are also plenty of takeaway unreasonable number of cake sta

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nd fresh products; stalls and an alls!

London’s best, and best-known, food market is chock-a-block with takeaway choices, should all that prime produce make you hungry on the hoof.

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he food hound’s favourite market is also London’s oldest, dating back to the 13th century. It’s the busiest too, occupying a sprawling site near London Bridge. Gourmet goodies run the gamut,

from fresh loaves and rare-breed meats, via fish, game, fruit and veg, to cakes and all manner of preserves, oils and teas; head out hungry to take advantage of the numerous free samples. A rail viaduct, vigorously campaigned against, is now in place, which means restored historic features have been returned and works disruption should now be at an end. As if to celebrate, a new Market hall, facing onto Borough High Street, has been opened: it acts as a kind of greenhouse for growing plants (including hops), as well as hosting workshops, tastings and foodie demonstrations. You can also nip in with your snack if the weather’s poor. Borough Market’s gourmet food market consists of up to 70 stalls and stands. Producers from all over the country bring a range of fresh produce to the market, including fish, meats, vegetables, ciders, cheeses, breads, coffees, cakes and patisseries. Other stalls specialise in produce imported from abroad.

Open: 10am-5pm Wed & Thu, to 6pm Fri, 8am-5pm Sat Address: Southwark Street, Bankside, London Tube Station: London Bridge

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Hot Stuff Hobbs

Their hot meat baguettes in with stuffing and apple sau stuffing and cranberry sauc pickle and mustard.

Hot Stuff Bianca e Mora Specialising in charcuterie, Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan) and Pecorino cheese, Bianca e Mora source their products from a collection of small farms in northern Italy. All the products on the stall are organic enjoy Italian DOP status

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nclude roast loin of pork uce, turkey breast with ce and salt beef with dill

Hot Stuff Elsey and Bent Years of experience in sourcing, buying and selling the very best fruit, vegetables and salads, combined with a traditional sense of quality and value mean customers are sure to find the best of the season at this stall.

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GORDON’S WINE An institution in London’s drinking circles has an atmosphere from time gone

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ordon’s is the home to a regular,

glasses of vino. Having chosen your tipple from

thriving crowd of drinkers of all

the award-winning wine list, head right to the

ages and all walks of life, united

back and find the low-ceilinged arches, under

in their love of this unique venue

which tables and chairs huddle together, bathed in

and of good wine. Buried deep and dark beneath the streets with only a small doorway and a subtle

gentle candlelight.

You’ll probably have to wait a while for a

sign indicating its presence, Gordon’s Wine Bar

table, but there’s no great hardship in propping

is one of central London’s best hidden gems. The

yourself up in a corner and waiting for one to

subterranean setting is accessed by a steep, wood-

become available or, alternatively, asking to

panelled staircase which leads into a rickety old

share the corner of someone else’s. There’s also

room plastered with centuries old newspapers

a stretch of outdoor seating with brollies and

cuttings and dusty wine bottles.

heaters provided. Gordon’s wine list includes a

Once you’ve made the somewhat perilous

wide-ranging collection from the New and Old

descent, be prepared for a crowded crawl to the

World, to suit any palate. The friendly Gallic bar

bar through throngs of office workers supping on

staff know their stuff, so don’t be afraid to ask.

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Still family run, signs of the bar’s can be found everywhere, from the cellar to the aged wodden walls covered in memorabilia and old newspaper cutings

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Sturdy tumblers of port or sherry served straight from casks

Gordon’s. Enjoy, but remember you’ll have to climb back up

behind the bar are an unusual but welcome detail as is the

those steep stairs on your way out.

delicious, home-cooked food available (try a plate of pongy cheese, some pate or a hearty ploughman’s). The oldest wine bar in London, this friendly, family-run establishment has

Address: 47 Villiers Street, Covent Garden

resolutely resisted change and its merit is demonstrated by

Telephone: 020 7930 1408

its immense popularity. There’s certainly not enough room

Site: www.gordonswinebar.com

to swing a cat here, and probably not even enough to open

Open:Mon to Sat 11am-11pm, Sun 12pm-10pm

a newspaper, but this is all part and parcel of drinking at

Tube station: Embankment