Dirt Biking through Burma, Part Two-Johan de Villers

Now that you have the preliminary pre-travel general, health and travel documentation squared away, it’s time to focus on what you’ll need on the road. (Fall 2021 Issue Part 1)

Navigation, weather and accommodation

It is vital to remember that good English maps for Myanmar are virtually impossible to get ahold of. This is even more true if you plan to visit the more remote mountainous areas to the west of the country. In addition to that, there does not exist any English road signs or markings, as everything is only in Burmese. Considering that the country is more than 260,000 square miles (or 676,000 square kilometers), our original expedition plans included hiring a seasoned local Burmese that would provide translation and navigation assistance with the numerous tribes we were going to encounter. This individual was unfortunately missing in action when we arrived in Mandalay and left us in a precarious position at the start of our trip.

We therefore decided to purchase a data sim and for the entire expedition relied on Google Maps via our mobile phones strapped to our Honda 250 motorcycles. Even in the thickest jungle we had unbelievably strong 4G reception via cell phone towers. It does help to carry a spare power bank as electricity/charging is not always guaranteed on arrival at your chosen destination.

In terms of safe accommodation, we did some intensive research for clean and safe bed and breakfasts that had previous travel recommendations. It would be useful to study a map of Myanmar beforehand to familiarize yourself with the general topography of the country. The country is divided in 14 provinces which consists of seven states and seven regions.

The terrain, weather conditions and fauna/flora differ greatly between the areas. Bear in mind that Myanmar has a monsoon climate with three main seasons. The hottest period is between February and May, when there is little or no rain and temperatures can rise above 40°C (104°F). The rainy season is generally from May to October. The period during October to February provides better dry and cooler weather which is what we would recommend for travel. Plan your trip accordingly.

With regards to the types of roads that you will experience in Myanmar, a proficient skill level of riding is required should you choose to do it via dirt bike. Originally, we would have preferred machines in the 690 to 800 cc range, but it is virtually impossible to rent off-road motorcycles of this capacity in Myanmar, never mind true adventure bikes. Nearly 95 percent of all twowheelers are cheap 125cc Chinese

Dirt-biking through Burma, Part Two

scooters. Our normal KTM 1290/GS 1250 machines would have coped, but for some of the single-track mountain ruts they would have proved challenging to ride with.

With this backdrop, what could possibly go wrong? We therefore promptly contacted a Russian motorcycle dealer that arranged for us two Honda 250 CRF dirt bikes on arrival in Mandalay after an exhausting international flight via Thailand from Johannesburg.

With the benefit of hindsight, not having a guide turned out to add to the mystery of exploration in Myanmar. We were humbled with the hospitality of the mountain tribes in Mindat, deep in the western jungles, even without the benefit of being able to translate their language. Every time Kim took off her full-face motorcycle helmet, the villagers would come streaming out of their bamboo huts as it was the first time that they have seen a blonde westerner in their life!

Motorcycle spares and maintenance

On any expedition, especially on dirt or adventure bikes, weight is of paramount importance. The lighter you can travel, the better! Having said that, when you end up on something as small as a 250cc machine, you must plan even more stringently on what to take on a three-week journey. If we were traveling on GS 1250s, we could easily have 100 pounds of gear with us, but on the little Hondas we had to make do with less than 40 pounds of total gear.

We knew that the machines were relatively new beforehand when we rented them and that they just had a major service as well. So, we decided to keep tools down to a minimum in the event of a breakdown. We ensured beforehand that the dirt bikes were equipped with 30/70 on-road/ off-road tires which turned out to be a good balance in terms of the terrain encountered.

Owing to the large number of scooters that the Myanmar people use for daily transport, it is relatively easy to find a repair shop of some kind, even in the remotest of villages. Your biggest risk would really be to either have a flat tire or to run out of fuel. Plan your refueling stops carefully as you have a limited range on a small off-road bike and the country has very big distances to cover in some cases. In addition to that, be careful of contaminated fuel.

We carried a small tire repair kit just in case, but for the rest of the time, a leatherman, duct tape and cable/zip ties should be enough. Interestingly enough, it was impossible to get ahold of chain spray at any point in time. Ask any repair shop for some old engine oil and apply with an old toothbrush. Works like a charm!

Trip Highlights

One of the highlights of the trip was our arrival at one of Asia’s great inland lakes, Lake Inle in Shan state. The local fishermen on the lake practice a distinctive rowing style which involves wrapping one leg around the oar whilst balancing on the other leg on the stern of their small boats. As much of the lake is covered by water plants and reeds, this unique style affords them the ability to see above the vegetation whilst rowing. It’s well worth planning your trip to spend at least two or three days around this lake.

Another highlight was the golden temples of Bagan that easily rivals the magnificent pagodas of Angor Wat in Cambodia and should be a bucket list entry for any adventure biker! The hundreds of temples that are located across the plains of Bagan are the most inspiring testament to the religious devoutness of Myanmar’s people – and rulers – over the centuries. These Burmese temples are rated as some of the richest archaeological sites in Asia. If you have the spare funds available, park your bike here and rent an early morning hot air balloon for a sight of a lifetime!

Whilst you enjoy riding the twisty mountain roads in Myanmar, do not forget to sample the exotic food and bear in mind that fuel will be at least 50 percent cheaper than in South Africa. Data costs for mobile phones are at least 70 percent cheaper and Myanmar’s local coffee (Genius) and whisky (Grand Royal) is exquisite and cost a fraction of what we pay locally.

Our expedition finally ended after traveling more than 1,600 miles in 21 days without a single breakdown on the

two trusty Honda CRF 250s. Would we do it again? Hell yes, Myanmar is biking paradise!

A final note to fellow riders.

Myanmar’s scenery rates an easy 4/5. You will experience some of the most majestic rain forests on the planet, curvy mountain roads and beautiful freshwater lakes.

For those history buffs amongst you, give it at least a rating of 4/5 as well. Burma has a rich, if somewhat brutal, history but has amazing pagodas and temples to rival the best in Asia.

On a cautionary note, bear in mind that traffic is insane in the city areas. The rural traffic does not adhere to rules of the road. Road conditions are generally single lane, single track and in the rural areas completely dirt and mud. Be Alert. ALL THE TIME. Massive trucks tend to come down the many mountain passes at blinding speed and will consume both sides of the road, without any yellow lanes for you or your bike to pass safely. Hence the need for intercom systems between the riders as well.

Safe riding!

Johan de Villiers

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Our Itinerary for riders adventurous enough to follow!

Google Maps link of adventure bike road trip: https://bit.ly/3sOpRNH

Destination, State /Territory & Attraction

Thiri Thit Sar Hotel,

Mandalay

Shwenandaw Monastery and Royal Palace, Se Naing Guest House

Mindat, Chin State

Nat Ma Taung National Park,Mindat Trek & Park,Floral Breeze Hotel

Kanpetlet, Chin State

Mt.Victoria

Sky Palace Hotel

Bagan, Mandalay

Mya Zedi Stone, Irrawady, Kyaukgu Umin,Pine Breeze Hotel

Kalaw, Shan State

Myoma Monastery, Green Hill Elephants,Famous Hotel Loikaw

Kayah State

Shwe Kyaung, Kyat Cave, Nan Kool Hill, Lawpita View Point, Inle Resort

Shan State

Inle Lake, Floating Gardens, Shwe Gu Guest House, Taw Kyal Waterfall, Kandawgyi Hill Resort

Pyin Oo Lwin, Mandalay

National Villages & Kandawgyi Garden, Thiri Thit Sar Hotel

Mandalay

Lions of Stone, Santa Muni Pagoda

ETS Services Consulting

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