Go Rail Summer 2018

2018 • VOL:08 ISSUE:02

THE SEASON HOTS UP! GA A SPECIAL STARRING

DUBLIN’S OLWEN CAREY, CARLA ROWE & MICHAEL DARRAGH MacAULEY AND KERRY’S DARRAN O’SULLIVAN

WE ARE THE CHAMPIONS

PLAYING TAG

TALK OF THE TOON

A celebration of Irish food

Jon Hamm on his comedy smash

The Breadwinner’s Nora Twomey

Show us

#HDYCYB

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Our city centre location, only a short stroll to the Abbey, Gate, Bord Gais theatre and 3 Arena. www.leboncrubeen.Ie 81 - 82 Talbot street, Dublin 2 | Tel: 01 704 0126 Email: info@leboncrubeen.ie

A beautiful Resort complete with an award Winning Spa & Championship Golf Course

Tel: 059 91 80100 • www.mountwolseley.ie

Quality accommodation at great rates, located on Talbot Street, in the heart of Dublin city.

Our lovely rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious welcoming touches.

Just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin.

Popular attractions Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are close by. www.celticlodge.ie 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 878 8810 Email: info@celticlodge.ie

Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic!

Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a traditional bar menu with the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness. www.thecelt.ie Tel: 01 878 8655 The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1

CONTENTS

2 01 8

Volume 08 // Issue 02

Dublin Ladies

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MIGUEL RUIZ

I N T E R V I E W O N PAG E

06 / Go For It

32 / Lost & Found

It's festival season - we detail the country's biggest musical extravaganzas.

Irish director Liam O Mochain explores how trains carry many stories in Lost & Found.

14 / Train News

34 / Food Champions

All the latest happenings in the world of the Irish Rail network.

The personalities who make Ireland a foodie haven.

18 / Battle for the All Ireland

43 / Go Eat

Dublin stars Carla Rowe and Olwen Carey talk about playing in front of record crowds, while in men's action Dublin's Michael Darragh MacAuley and Kerry's Darran O'Sullivan give their thoughts on the upcoming Super 8s.

XposĂŠ presenter Cassie Stokes chats to us over cocktails and dinner in Bonsai Dublin.

Supported By

46 / 15 Great Things to Eat

24 / Nora Twomey

Our resident foodie Stuart Clark gives us a rundown of the very best food Ireland has to offer.

The Oscar-nominated animator talks about her criticallyacclaimed release, The Breadwinner.

48 / Go Travel

26 / Jon Hamm

A look at Ottawa - home to more than Justin Trudeau's sock collection.

The Mad Men star on how his new movie Tag promotes the importance of play.

50 / Fashion

30 / Lock's Restaurant

Bardot necks may have been banned by Ascot, but they still look great.

The expertise of chef Chris Maguire has made this leafy Portobello spot a must-visit.

54 / Reviews The highlights of the album, book and movie worlds, including Gorillaz and Ash.

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Credits

Editor's Letter

2018

Volume 08 // Issue 02

MANAGING EDITOR

Máirin Sheehy

COMMISSIONING EDITOR

Roisin Dwyer

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Paul Nolan

CONTRIBUTORS

Stuart Clark Peter McNally Peter McGoran Anne Sexton Max Freebern Roe McDermott Stephen Keegan

DESIGN & PRODUCTION

Hot Press 100 Capel Street Dublin 1

DESIGN

Eimear O'Connor Lili Ferreira Karen Kelleher

ADVERTISING MANAGER

Tom Corcoran

GROUP ADVERTISING MANAGER

Catherine Madden

CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER COVER PHOTOGRAPHER

Miguel Ruiz www.gaapics.com

PUBLISHER

Niall Stokes

PRINTED BY

Boylan’s Print

GO RAIL IS PUBLISHED FOR IARNRÓD ÉIREANN BY:

Osnovina Ltd 100 Capel Street Dublin 1

Contact TELEPHONE FAX EMAIL

(01) 2411 500 (01) 2411 538 gorail@hotpress.ie

LETTERS

The Editor, Go Rail Magazine, 100 Capel Street Dublin 1

While every effort has been made to ensure the information in this magazine is correct, the publishers cannot accept any responsibilities for errors. The views contained in this magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily those of Iarnród Éireann.

All material © Osnovina 2018.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction of material without permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.

Good Day,

Sunshine!

No better place to be than on a lake in Cavan as the evening sun goes down...

The summer of 2018 will be long remembered for the wonderful, warm weather it has delivered. It has added a unique participatory atmosphere to the holiday season...

T

he sun has loved Ireland so far this summer. In fact, we haven’t seen anything like it since 1976, and – who knows? – 2018 might yet surpass even the famous heatwave of that fine summer.

There are downsides of course, with water rationing becoming a bigger issue by the week. And farmers are certainly suffering the effects of what they believe is too much sun – and too little rain.

But it has been a wonderful time in so many ways.

To see the females and males of the tribe strolling equally around in shorts and t-shirts, and generally putting on the seaside style, really is heart-warming.

People in Dublin are jumping on the train and heading to Howth, Portmarnock, Malahide, Clontarf, Sandymount, Blackrock and Killiney for a quick dip.

Meanwhile, the more adventurous travel from all over the country to enjoy the beaches at destinations around the coast like Wexford, Tramore, Youghal, Kilkee, Salthill, Westport and Strandhill.

The water is warmer than ever along the west coast in particular, to the extent that we can accurately say that it really is like swimming in the Mediterranean.

All of which adds to the atmosphere and the buzz, as

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Irish people and visitors to the country alike enjoy themselves in a celebratory, uninhibited way!

In general, the sun doesn’t stick around for long here, so when it does we revel in it. Which is why we love barbecues in the back garden. Walks up the mountains. Picnics in the park. Getting out on the water sailing or kayaking. The great outdoors become a far more attractive thought when you know that you can rely on the sun shining.

The idea of sitting outside a restaurant enjoying the wonderful Irish food – ideally locally produced and organic – takes on an even greater appeal. That Irish restaurants and cafes are now well capable of holding their own on the international stage is becoming increasingly clear. But to add to the hospitality mix here a Mediterranean sense of being able to relax in the evening sun, sipping a strategic glass of prosecco, or a home-produced Irish cider, is like the cream on the strawberries. It makes all the difference.

Truly, so far, 2018 has delivered a remarkable and hugely enjoyable summer of pleasure and enjoyment.

We want rain, of course. But at night, please. And let the lovely summer weather continue for as long as our luck holds...

Warm Welcomes, Welcomes, Super Super Service, Service, Great Great Memories Memories Warm Conveniently situated situated on on Washington Washington Street, Street, Conveniently Reardens is is the the cornerstone cornerstone of of Cork Cork nightlife nightlife Reardens generating more more social social activity activity in in one one night night generating than most most bars bars produce produce in in a a year. year. than

Sports Sports

With our our electric electric atmosphere, atmosphere, Reardens Reardens is is With the next next best best thing thing to to being being at at the the match. match. the Catch all all sports sports live live on on our our HDHQ HDHQ screen screen -Catch the best best quality quality you’ll you’ll find find in in Cork!

Cork! the

Reardens Bar, Bar, 26 26 Washington Washington Street, Street, Cork Cork Reardens

Live Music Music Live

Loved by by music music fanatics fanatics in in the the city, city, some some Loved of the the best best bands bands in in the the country country play play on on of our stage stage weekly weekly creating creating a a vibrant vibrant our ambiance to to spend spend an an evening. evening. ambiance

Late-Night Late-Night

Dance the the night night away away in in Reardens Reardens or or visit visit Dance one our our other other late-night late-night options options upstairs, upstairs, one including The The Secret Secret Garden Garden -including A fairy fairy tale tale for for grown grown ups. ups.

A

Tel: 021 021 4658100 4658100 Tel:

www.reardens.com www.reardens.com

Let us us entertain entertain you. you.

Let Look no no further further than than the the authentic authentic Irish Irish Look experience at at The The Oliver Oliver Plunkett.

Plunkett. experience

Dedicated Whiskey Whiskey Bar Bar Dedicated

Experience our our fantastic fantastic handpicked handpicked selection selection Experience of whiskeys whiskeys in in a a true true rustic rustic setting. setting. of Taste the the history history and and learn learn the the heritage heritage Taste from our our trained trained whiskey whiskey pro. pro. from

Traditional Irish Irish Music Music Traditional

Come experience experience the the amazing amazing “Ceol “Ceol agus agus Come Craic” 7 7 nights nights a a week week with with live live Traditional Traditional Craic” Irish music music & & Irish Irish dancing dancing performances. performances.

Irish

Authentic Irish Irish Cuisine Cuisine Authentic

Serving Traditional Traditional Irish Irish food food all all day, day, every every day. day.

Serving

The Oliver Oliver Plunkett, Plunkett, 116 116 Oliver Oliver Plunkett Plunkett Street, Street, Cork Cork The

Tel: 021 021 4222779 4222779 Tel:

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www.theoliverplunkett.com www.theoliverplunkett.com

GO FOR IT A R U N D O W N O F W H AT ' S H O T & H A P P E N I N G

by Colin Gannon MIGUEL RUIZ

CURRAGHMORE THE MERRIER This August Bank Holiday Weekend, All Together Now will host its debut festival. ATN is a festival which organisers say is “for like-minded people, music lovers, passionate performers, families, artists, musicians, creators, rebels, and refugees of a changing festival landscape.” The picturesque Curraghmore Estate in Waterford will host a wide

variety of music, spoken-word, comedy, theatre, art and workshops. Fleet Foxes, Roisin Murphy, Underworld, Thundercat and Chaka Khan are among the impressively eclectic line-up. This glorious setting is in close proximity to some of Ireland’s largest cities: just 50 minutes from Cork and 90 minutes from Dublin, with plenty of transport links.

Need to Know...

WHEN:

August 3–5 WHERE: Curraghmore Estate

For best value fares on all intercity services check out irishrail.ie

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F R IN G E B E N E F I TS JOSE MIGUEL JIMENEZ

Fringe is a multi-disciplinary festival focusing on innovative approaches to the arts, featuring both Irish and international creatives. The festival, which runs from September 8–23, is where artists challenge, subvert and invigorate their disciplines and practices. Fringe supports artistic innovation, ambition and excellence across a range of art forms. It also offers resources, space, time and professional development to the Irish independent arts sector.

Dublin Fringe Festival draws more than 30,000 spectators for 16 days and nights. It is also a platform for the best new, emerging Irish arts companies and a showcase for the finest international contemporary performing arts. Audiences can expect the festival to be a place of meaningful discovery and exciting, unforgettable cultural experiences.

After

Fable

Madhouse

MICHAEL COLLINS HOUSE CLOICH NA COILLTE No. 7 EMMET SQUARE, CLONAKILTY, CO. CORK, IRELAND.

Contact Details Tel: 023 8858676

CLAREMORRIS TOWN HALL

Opening Times

Summers Opening Times (May to September) Tues-Sat: 10am to 5pm Sunday: 12pm to 5pm (last admission 4pm)

Theatre & Concert Hall

Winter Opening Times Wed - Sat: 10am to 5pm (October to April)

Claremorris, Co Mayo.

5 minutes walk from Claremorris Train Station Interested in speaking with all touring acts.

Admission Prices Adult €5 Family €12 Senior Citizens €3 Students €3 Children (U14) €2

> Seating Capacity Studio – 100 > Main Hall Configurable 200 – 900 > Fully Licensed Bar. > Green Screen (8.83 mts wide x 4.3mts high.) > In-house Martin PA with Allen & Heath Digital Desk. > Theatre Lighting with multiple circuits.

Michael Collins House,

a new museum dedicated to Michael Collins and the history of Irish independence, suitable for all the family.

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Interactive and audio visual displays suitable for all ages

www.michaelcollinshouse.ie

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Tel +353 94 931 0999. www.townhall.ie

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I T COLM KELLY

St.Vincent

OUR FRIENDS ELECTRIC Kendrick Lamar, St Vincent, Massive Attack, N.E.R.D and King Krule are among the groundbreaking acts in the lineup for this year’s much anticipated Electric Picnic festival. The line-up for the three-day event, which takes place in its home of Stradbally, is one of its strongest yet. Kendrick Lamar will take to the main stage in the wake of the phenomenal success

of his most recent album DAMN., as well as the soundtrack for the superhero film Black Panther.

There are also a number of high-profile pop and rock performers, including Dua Lipa, St Vincent (above) and Sigrid – the teenage Norwegian whose star is rising. This will be a weekend of music, dance, food and camaraderie you'll not soon forget.

Need to Know...

WHERE: Stradbally, Co.Laois WHEN: August 31–September 2 Nearest Station Portlaoise

LONDON CALLING

Grilling In The Name Of

Irish soccer fans – particularly those with an affinity for London giants Arsenal or Chelsea – will be treated to an attractive pre-season friendly on August 1, at an expected full-house at the Aviva Stadium.

The International Champions Cup fixture will form part of Unai Emery’s first pre-season as Arsenal manager.

Liverpool play Napoli three days later at the same venue, the weekend before the start of the 2018/19 Premier League season, but this London derby is the most appealing of the first round of fixtures.

The match will mark the third-time that the International Champions Cup has come to Ireland and the second time to the Aviva Stadium.

Returning for its fifth year in Dublin, the Big Grill is Europe’s largest BBQ festival, taking place at Herbert Park from August 16–19. The festival celebrates the art of cooking with fire and smoke, bringing together chefs, cooks and pitmasters from Ireland, the UK and further afield.

20,000 visitors will smell, taste, discover and learn about all kinds of barbecuing, grilling, smoking, vegetables, meats, delicacies and drinks over the course of 4 days An unmissable event for all food lovers.

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Arts of the City The 41st installment of this highly-esteemed multidisciplinary festival covers a range of art forms, including theatre, dance, music, opera, street spectacle, visual arts, discussion and comedy. In 2017, over 200 events took place in 33 venues with an attendance of around 210,000.

The Guardian newspaper named it one of the Top Five Summer Festivals in Europe.

This year, from July 16–29, there will also be a First Thought Talks series, with interviews and discussions on the theme of Home, featuring artists and theatre makers from across the world. Gavin James, The Flaming Lips and Kodaline are some of the musical acts confirmed to play. The festival will also feature Madness, Walking On Cars and The Stunning across the two weeks at the famous Big Top. In terms of theatre performances, there will be six world premieres and five Irish premieres. These will include first-time showings of plays by Paul Muldoon, Sonya Kelly and Cristin Kehoe.

BRIT ME BABY Pop superstar Britney Spears is returning to Irish shores this year, bringing her Piece Of Me tour to Dublin’s 3Arena. Irish fans can get in on the act on August 20 when the tour pitches up at the North Wall.

The world-tour follows Britney’s record-breaking, four-year headlining residency at the Planet Hollywood Resort & Casino in Vegas, where a million tickets were sold for over 250 sell-out shows. To give you an idea of the magnitude of Britney's live appeal, her Vegas audiences have included Beyoncé, Jay Z, Lady Gaga, Anna Kendrick, Nick Jonas and Miley Cyrus.

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Le Galaxie

CORK THIS WAY Since the inaugural edition of the festival in 2006, Indiependence has grown into one of Ireland’s biggest and most beloved boutique events, drawing international acts like Basement Jaxx, Public Enemy, De La Soul and Editors to play alongside the best names in Irish music in the scenic foothills of the Galtee Mountains. UK indie legends Primal Scream will make a fantastic 2018 headliner for the August Bank Holiday Weekend (3–5) festival at the idyllic Deer Farm, Mitchelstown. They join a stellar line-up which already features Walking On Cars, Jake Bugg, Cast, Le Galaxie (above),

Face The Music

Sigala and a whole new cohort of stand-out Irish talent.

And So I Watch You From Afar will join many up-and-coming Irish artists, including LOAH, Ailbhe Reddy, Marc O’Reilly and Fontaines DC. This year, Indiependence has a new Urban Village stage, featuring some of the best up-and-coming Irish hip hop and urban artists: Mango X Mathman, Kojaque, Tebi Rex, Erica Cody, to name but a few.

As always, Indiependence offers a variety of comfortable sleeping options, complete with hot private showers, ‘posh toilets’, fresh water and sinks.

Ross O’Carroll Kelly creator Paul Howard brings an all-singing, alldancing puppet-based musical extravaganza to the Olympia Theatre this summer (July 5–August 12).

The musical stars Johnny Ward, Roseanna Purcell and Michele McGrath. Copper Face Jacks: The Musical is a celebration of the nightclub that started out as something of a Culchie Embassy in Dublin, but has since been embraced by its home city. It’s a love story set on the eve of a Dublin-Kerry All-Ireland Final, when a sweet Kerry girl – who has moved to the big smoke for her dream job in the VHI – ends up falling for a Dublin team member. Regardless of your county colours, you’ll always be welcome in the club that has become synonymous with a good time, and this show is a celebration of connectivity.

Jumping For Joy

THE KEENAN EDGE

Now in its 145th year, the world-renowned Dublin Horse Show takes place again this August 8–12 at the RDS. As usual, there will be an array of national and international show-jumping competitions and world class equestrian entertainment, shopping, food and music. There are over 130 classes at the show and they can be categorised into showing classes, performance classes and showjumping classes. The show, which attracts over 100,000 visitors each year, is the highlight of the equestrian calendar in Ireland. It remains a huge cultural event, with over 1,500 horses and ponies expected across 132 classes and competitors from all over Ireland, UK and Europe.

Following on from his massively impressive performance at Forbidden Fruit, along with a string of other Dublin shows, Dundalk native David Keenan returns to play at Monroe's, Galway on July 22. His live shows have been described as visceral, spiritual, and communal events, where Keenan moves from a ‘one man and his guitar’ monologue to fronting a band with serious intent. The talented, fast-rising singersongwriter plays Galway in what is anticipated to be a special night of music in a perfectly intimate setting.

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AMAZING GRACE

Trinity College throws open its gates to the public for the Summer Series, a week of concerts hosted in College Park this July. First up is the ever fashionable disco maven, Grace Jones, whose recent visits to The Olympia Theatre have garnered much praise among fans and critics alike. Jones remains an icon and has had an expansive and continuously fruitful career as a singer, songwriter, actress and supermodel. This first show promises to be a theatrical and unique experience that cannot be missed.

CARR of the year

Need to Know...

WHERE: Trinity College, Dublin

One of the most popular figures of the past 20 years in British comedy, stand-up and TV host Jimmy Carr will return to Galway for a rescheduled show at Leisureland on September 5. Carr has been a regular on the stand-up scene and TV panel shows for a decade and a half. During that time, he has performed nine sell-out tours, playing nearly 2,000 shows to over two million people across four continents.

He’s previously won the British Comedy Award for ‘Best Live Stand-Up Tour’ and been nominated for the Perrier Award. Carr’s decision to go provincial makes sense, given that both of his parents – Patrick and Nora – are from Limerick. Don’t miss one of the comedy highlights of the year.

WHEN: July 23 NEAREST STATION: Heuston / Connolly

HAVING

A LAUGH

TOURS DE FORCE This year, Ireland’s premier comedy festival is shaping up to be the most exciting yet, with over 120 acclaimed performers from Ireland and across the globe - Tommy Tiernan, Blindboy Boatclub and Saturday Night Live’s Michael Che are among the star turns. Dublin’s beautiful Iveagh Gardens host

Marking the 20th anniversary of the GAA museum, former GAA icons will descend upon Croke Park for a special tour series between June 9 and September 1, where they will reflect on the defining moments of their careers in the magisterial surrounds of Croke Park. Fans will be offered the chance to relive memorable moments in Croke Park’s history, experiencing the highs and lows from the players’ perspectives.

Hill 16 hero Barney Rock, former Tyrone midfielder Sean Cavanagh, and Kilkenny’s Jackie Tyrell are among those presiding over the tours, perfect for all the hurling and football aficionados out there. All tours include a trip to the GAA Museum, which is home to many exclusive exhibits, including the official GAA Hall of Fame.

the event, which will take place across five fully-seated venues over four fun-packed days from July 26–29. The line-up once again boasts a wide-ranging mix of Irish comedy’s biggest names, including Jason Byrne, Deirdre O’Kane, David O’Doherty, Neil Delamare, Aisling Bea and many, many more.

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FLEADH POWER The first Fleadh attracted only a few hundred hardened patrons – a small but enthusiastic crowd. Within five years, however, this annual gathering had grown to a great National Festival attended by thousands of traditional musicians, singers and dancers from all parts of Ireland and from overseas. Over the course of the festival, Dundalk's historic streets will provide a great venue for this memorable and enjoyable experience. Upwards of 400,000 visitors expected to descend on the area this August.

Need to Know...

WHERE: Drogheda WHEN: August 12–19 Nearest Station Drogheda MacBride

The Film of KELLS Guth Gafa, Ireland’s largest independent documentary film festival, returns on July 20–22 to the magnificent and tranquil grounds of the 18th century Headfort House, a hidden gem close to the historic village of Kells, Co. Meath. The festival focuses on showcasing the latest award-winning international and Irish documentary films on thought-provoking subjects, and promotes the art of great storytelling, through film, to

The Big Match

rural Irish communities. The documentaries arouse debate and discussion, and Guth Gafa’s trademark of having all filmmakers in attendance to present and discuss their work with the audiences, makes the festival a great experience for any film lover. With family screenings and workshops running in parallel to screenings, the 12th Guth Gafa promises to be another unique occasion in the Irish film calender.

Europe’s biggest singles festival takes place again between August 31 and September 30, in the small village of Lisdoonvarna on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. The month-long Irish festival, renowned for its array of country music icons, attracts people from all over the world; whether they’re looking for love, some fun or just a bit of craic. There’s music and dancing in every bar from 11am in the morning to the early hours of the night and those looking for love can meet Ireland’s only traditional matchmaker, Willie Daly, in his office in the Matchmaker Bar. The festival is now in its 160th year and, in the age of Tinder, remains a unique and unmissable opportunity to matchmake or simply have fun the oldfashioned way.

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF ICC

Bowled

Over

After the landmark news that Cricket Ireland has been included on the International Cricket Council’s (ICC) Future Tours Programme for the first time - guaranteeing them a stacked calendar against the world’s top sides - a limited-overs series against Afghanistan is confirmed for August 20–31. Ireland played their first Test against Pakistan in Malahide in May and, following Cricket Ireland’s ascension to full membership status of the ICC last June, there has been notable progression in the sport on Irish shores. Three T20s and three one-day matches will take place later this year against Afghanistan, who also received Test status last year.

Bready Cricket Club in Derry will host the T20s, and, with cricket seeing a welcome spike in popularity, it promises to be a captivating series.

One of Cork’s Best Visitor Attractions Open Seven Days a Week

RAISING THE TONES Legendary Irish folk icons, The Wolfe Tones, are performing as part of Gleneagle Summer Cabaret this August 5. Due to popular demand, the group are headed to the INEC Killarney for what promises to be a memorable show. Their ‘Greatest Hits Performance’ will see the group raise the roof with the songs and ballads that have made them such perennial favourites. From ‘My Heart Is In Ireland’ to ‘The Streets of New York’ this is a show not to be missed by all fans of Irish folk and traditional ballad music.

Sundays Well, Convent Avenue, Cork City Phone: (021) 4305022 Email: info@corkcitygaol.com Web: www.corkcitygaol.com

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T R A I N news Book your Papal Visit travel today Advance bookings essential for Papal trains

Connolly Station Piano

IARNRÓD ÉIREANN LAUNCHES PERMANENT PIANO AT CONNOLLY STATION Pope Francis will visit Knock and Dublin The World Meeting of Families in August will culminate in Pope Francis attending the Festival of Families in Croke Park on Saturday 25th August, and visiting Knock Shrine and officiating Mass to over 500,000 people at Phoenix Park on Sunday 26th August.

Iarnród Éireann will be providing additional services and capacity for customers travelling to these events, with a particular focus on the Phoenix Park event on Sunday 26th August. Customers are advised that advance booking for Intercity services is absolutely essential, and tickets for trains from around the network will not be available for sale on the day. Customers must book in advance at www.irishrail.ie and 018366222, including holders of existing tickets and Free Travel Pass holders.

Extra services will also operate for DART and Commuter customers, and season tickets, Leap Cards, and the Papal Travel Card are all valid for travel, as will DART and Commuter tickets in the Short Hop Zone purchased on the day.

Remember: - Book your ticket for the Papal events - Plan your travel - Prepare for your journey - all access points to/from the Phoenix Park will involve long walks.

In addition, limited services are available from Westport, Ballina and Athlone to/from Claremorris for the visit to Knock Shrine, with a bus transfer operating from Claremorris to Knock. Rail travel must be booked in advance.

Full details on rail services are available at www.irishrail. ie and you must book Intercity travel in advance.

Full details of the Papal visit are available at www.gov.ie/ popeinireland

In June, the latest permanent public piano at our stations was unveiled at Dublin’s Connolly Station.

The Connolly piano is the third public piano to be installed at Iarnród Éireann Stations. The piano at Pearse was installed last September and the piano at Heuston was installed last March, both have brought delight to those waiting at the stations.

Artist Holly Pereira has illustrated the piano. She wanted to tell a story of the many thousands of people that pass through Connolly and the story of the building itself.

She has also recently visited Mexico and Poland and was inspired by their folk art and took influence from what she saw on her travels.

Speaking at the installation John Murphy, Piano Tuning & Repair said: “The Connolly piano is the third public piano that I have worked with Iarnród Éireann on and I am thrilled that so many people are getting to play the piano in a public place and provide entertainment to the many thousands of passengers that pass through the stations every day” Station Manager, Connolly Eddie Halpin said: “Myself and my team here in Connolly are so looking forward to hearing lots of musicians give us a tune here at the station and I’m sure it will contribute greatly to the atmosphere for everyone who passes through”

HEATWAVE: Stay Cool!

Our Summer has begun with the most wonderful heatwave, and customers are taking the opportunity to hit the coast and see the sights!

Let’s hope it continues, and whether you’re a daily commuter at peak or travelling with us for a special trip, remember to take steps to make sure your journey is comfortable during warm weather.

- Stay hydrated: make sure you have water with you at all times - Avoid unnecessary travel if unwell - Ask for assistance or, if on a busy peak service, ask for a seat if you

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become unwell while travelling - Wear comfortable clothing - Remember your hat and sunscreen if you are enjoying the sun on the platform, or sitting in direct sunlight on the train Iarnród Éireann has also put in place a series of hot weather protocols to ensure services operate without disruption. Fleet maintenance will focus on cooling systems on board, and on ensuring air-conditioning is operating well on equipped fleets, with fleets being monitored remotely and in maintenance centres.

REDISCOVER THE JOY OF THE TRAIN Have you seen our new ad, bringing back memories of the joy of the train?

There are so many opportunities to make those memories a reality again this summer, with great fares available, including for families!

If you are looking to travel short distance for day trips or to events around Dublin, our DART and Commuter services are the perfect way to get around. The DART line runs along the coast of the Irish Sea from Malahide or Howth in North County Dublin southwards as far as Greystones, Co Wicklow. This line offers stunning scenic views while you travel quickly from town to town.

The Commuter services extend further, continuing out to the surrounding counties of Dublin, such as Louth, Meath, Longford, Kildare and Wicklow Iarnród Éireann make it easy for you to travel around Ireland.

Our rail network connects you between Dublin and Cork, Limerick, Galway, Kerry, Mayo, Sligo, Waterford and Wexford and many more counties around Ireland. With Translink, we connect you to Belfast. Buy a Trekker Pass or ‘Explorer Travel Ticket’ and explore our beautiful country at your leisure. Our fantastic web fares also offers heavily discounted rail tickets making it even cheaper for you to see all our beautiful country has to offer!

From the mountains and lakes of Killarney in Co. Kerry to the rugged coastline of Galway bay. Visit the Titanic’s last port of call at Cobh, Co. Cork or stroll through the historic Marble city, Kilkenny. Discover Wexford and Waterford to see what the SouthEast of the Island have to offer.

As well as endless natural beauty, Ireland also has thrilling festivals and events going on all year round. Plenty of these events are accessible by train, and the summer GAA and Concert season wouldn’t be the same without the train journey.

Full details of fares and timetables are available at www.irishrail.ie .

Ambitious Enterprise: Cross-Border Rail Strategic Development Plan Launched Iarnród Éireann and Translink have launched an ambitious new strategic development plan for the Cross-border Enterprise Rail Service between Belfast and Dublin. Called ‘Better Connecting Dublin and Belfast’, the strategy sets out a road map of how both companies jointly plan to further enhance the service on this important north/south rail corridor.

The plan envisages a three staged approach: - the introduction of new fleet to allow for an hourly frequency between the two cities which they believe can be achieved within 5 years - Within the same time period and with additional investment in infrastructure and line improvements, it sets out the ambition to reduce the average journey time to less than two hours - From there, the longer-term aspiration would be to introduce electrification on the line and new rolling stock which would achieve further frequency improvements and a journey time of potentially 90mins or less. It is believed this could be achieved in 10+ years.

Frank Allen, Chairman of Iarnród Éireann Irish Rail said; “This is a strategy founded in partnership.

The partnership between both railways, within which generations have worked together

from platform to boardroom to build the joint service we offer our customers today.

Our joint strategy builds upon that legacy to continue to enhance the role we can play for the customers and communities we serve.

“The partnership with our stakeholders in business, tourism, central and local government and other major sectors is reflected in this strategy also. Our stakeholders have engaged with us aswe have developed this strategy, and we value their continued partnership as we seek to support each other in what our rail service achieve for our economy and society in the years ahead.

“The next steps are to secure funding to take this project forward and Translink and Iarnród Éireann are keen that approval is granted to start procurement of a new Enterprise fleet and to fund a project to undertake a detailed Technical and Feasibility study to further assess the journey time improvement options”, he concluded.

Speaking about the strategy, Chairman of

15

Translink, Frank Hewitt said; “Developing the Cross-Border Enterprise Rail Service will be essential to further strengthening economic links and is key to building competitiveness and increasing close communication links between our two capital cities. The plan launched today aligns with both Programmes for Government to support the growth of public transport while also delivering social and environmental benefits by decongesting roads, promoting all-Ireland Tourism and reducing carbon emissions.

“Last year we carried almost 1million passenger journeys on Enterprise and we believe more andmore people want to use public transport as a way to enjoy high quality, affordable travel experiences. We are committed to building on this success and want to make it even better in order to further increase modal shift toward sustainable transport.”

T R A I N news Commissioner Phil Hogan calls for additional funding for ports to improve Brexit connectivity

Rosslare Europort set to be hugely strategic in post-Brexit world EU Commissioner for Agriculture and Rural Development, Phil Hogan has said that the Ports of Ireland should get additional funding for infrastructure improvements to allow greater connectivity for business after Brexit.

Speaking at a “Keeping Trade Flowing” a special conference on Brexit and International Connectivity organised by the Irish Road Haulage Association and Rosslare Europort in June, Commissioner Hogan said that Brexit will happen, the model of Brexit being the only question.

The Commissioner challenged Irish state agencies and business to be prepared for all Brexit possibilities. He called for a doubling of capacity at Rosslare and for all ports to examine capacity.

He said the forthcoming round of EU Regional policies 2021-2027 represented an opportunity for funding for which Ireland must be ready.

The objective of the conference was to examine ways in which the Road Haulage industry in Ireland and Rosslare Europort and other ports within the south-east region can benefit from Ireland’s strategic location, given the potential changes in distribution patterns for international freight in the context of Brexit.

Commissioner Hogan Was joined

by Former MEP and Minister of State, Avril Doyle. Madeline Quirke of Wexford Chamber of Commerce and Economist, Jim Power spoke about

positive impact that Brexit may have on the Wexford economy, given the even greater strategic importance of Rosslare Europort in the context of Brexit.

Verona Murphy, President of the Irish Road Hauliers Association speaking at the event said: As the Europort in Rosslare represents the shortest sea route for goods and passengers to continental Europe, the Port is ideally positioned to expand and grow in a post Brexit scenario. The Port can be a catalyst for investment within the region and offers real potential as a base for increased commercial and employment generating activities. In particular there is major potential for Rosslare to become a significant port for the transportation of agriculture and food products and as such it should receive the necessary designations and inspection facilities to enable this to take place.

This would be of huge benefit to Rosslare, Wexford and the South East generally” Jim Meade, CEO of Iarnród Éireann, which owns and operates Rosslare Europort, said: As a key valuable strategic asset to the South East Region, Rosslare Europort can play a vital role post Brexit in supporting both the freight and tourism markets for the region and the island of Ireland.

Delegates at the conference included leaders from the haulage, freight and transport industry as well as representatives from the business and tourism community.

16

New platform planned for Limerick Junction to improve rail journey times for Cork, Limerick and Kerry services Iarnród Éireann has received planning permission application for a new platform at Limerick Junction Station, which will deliver improved journey times for services travelling and connecting through the Co Tipperary station.

Improved journey times of up to five minutes for Dublin to Cork/Kerry services, and of up to 11 minutes for Limerick to Cork/Dublin services due to improved connections will be delivered.

The new 240 metre platform for southbound services will remove the constraints and speed restrictions associated with the current single platform which caters for all Dublin to Cork/ Kerry services in both directions. A new footbridge with high capacity lifts will be included, to cater for customers transferring to the new platform, and will be designed to the most up-to-date standards of accessibility.

The project represents an estimated Ð3.5 million investment in the station, and is expected to be completed by mid-2019. The works will be planned to take place with minimal impact on existing services.

This represents the latest phase in journey time improvement works, with ongoing track bed improvement works on the main Dublin/Cork line having seen improvement of 3 to 10 minutes to Dublin/Cork services, and 2 to 11 minutes to Dublin/Limerick services delivered in December 2017.

Current typical journey times between Dublin and Cork are 2 hours 25 minutes to 2 hours 30 minutes, with a best time of 2 hours 15 minutes.

Dublin/Limerick services are typically 2 hours 5 minutes. The National Development Plan 201827, announced by the Government earlier this year, commits to examining opportunities for further journey time improvements on major Intercity lines, including between Dublin and Cork, Limerick, Galway and Belfast.

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D Barry Spellman (Calor), Danny Cahill (Customer), Shane Smyth (Worcester Bosch), Mary Cahill (Customer), Mícheál Hackett (O’Neill’s Plumbing & Heating).

anny Cahill, from Co. Kildare, has recently become the first home owner to move to Calor BioLPG, Ireland’s first and only renewable LPG solution. O’Neill Plumbing and Heating helped to facilitate this little piece of history, by installing a Worcester Bosch boiler for Danny, Ireland’s first domestic Calor BioLPG customer.

Since Calor launched BioLPG in April, there has been significant interest from homeowners and businesses around Ireland who want to play their part in positively impacting our environment. Calor BioLPG is certified at EU level, as offering up to 90% lower emissions compared to fossil fuels. BioLPG is virtually identical to the Calor LPG products that customers across the country use to power their homes and businesses every day. Because BioLPG is virtually the same as conventional LPG, it works seamlessly with existing gas appliances and equipment. This means that customers can make the move to using renewable energy without any hassle or major expenditure. Existing LPG boilers, dryers and other machinery will operate just as they always have, but will now be even better for the environment.

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23

Fields of

Gold

18

Dublin GAA

Dublin GAA is on the crest of a wave, and the all-conquering ladies’ football team are a major part of that success. Two of their stars, Carla Rowe and Olwen Carey, talk about playing before record crowds and their hopes for this season. Interview Paul Nolan Portrait Miguel Ruiz

T

he past decade has been a golden age for Dublin GAA, and ladies footballers Carla Rowe and Olwen Carey have been right at the forefront of this sporting revolution. The men’s team have accumulated a frightening number of league, Leinster and All Ireland titles, and of late, the ladies team have begun to enjoy a similar level of domination.

Following on from the electrifying men’s All Ireland final between Dublin and Mayo last year, there was a massive surge of interest in the ladies final a short time after, which threw up the same pairing.

In what was their first title win since 2010, Dublin triumphed on a scoreline of 4-11 to 0-11, before a crowd of 46,000 – the biggest attendance for a ladies sporting event anywhere in the world in 2017.

They followed it up by capturing the league title this spring – the first time it had ever been won by Dublin – again seeing off Mayo in the decider.

“It’s amazing,” enthuses Carla – a dynamic halfforward on the Dublin team – reflecting on that record final attendance. “There is now a base of young girls from different clubs who follow us everywhere with their parents. They go to all the games, which is really nice to see. At the league

“There’s nothing better than a big championship game in Croke Park.”

LIVE PHOTOGRAPHY: GAAPICS.COM

final this year, there was a massive crowd again.”

“Especially after that match, I felt like there was a lot more people in Parnell Park,” adds Olwen, the team’s midfield star. “There was a huge Dublin support, which is great for us.”

“It just shows where the game is going,” notes Carla.

“For the league final last year, we definitely wouldn’t have had that much support. Then when you see the crowd at the All Ireland final, and again for the league final, it’s obviously growing all the time.”

It all ties in with the unprecendented vibrancy of Gaelic games in the capital, with the ladies team now seeking two-ina-row as the men’s team bid to win Sam Maguire for the fourth consecutive time. First playing together at U16 level before progressing up the ranks in tandem, Rowe and Carey have had a unique insight into this remarkable era.

Do they feel Dublin GAA is now very much on the crest of a wave?

19

“Yeah, absolutely,” nods Carla. “Even when I started playing – my club is Clann Mhuire – I was on mixed teams. I don’t think that’s happening anymore; they’re now able to divide it so that girls have the 10 or 12 players they need at underage. That’s really good, it gives you an idea of the volume of players coming through from nursery level.”

“You don’t really notice it when you’re playing,” considers Olwen, who plays with the Thomas Davis club in Tallaght. “But then you start to see more people coming to the games. Definitely, there’s a lot more people playing underage sport than when we were younger. There would have been only a couple of people in your class. But with the amount of interest at the moment, it just shows the work that’s being done at club as well as county level. People are volunteering their time and we’re really reaping the benefits right now.”

With the Dublin ladies’ victory over Mayo in last year’s All Ireland, they managed to break Cork’s stranglehold on the championship, which has been one of the most extraordinary stories in 21st century Irish sport. From 2005-16, the Rebelettes claimed an astonishing 11 out of 12 titles, with the sole break in the run being Dublin’s 2010 victory over Tyrone – the county’s rst ever ladies’ championship.

But with their back-to-back All-Ireland and league wins, the Dubs will no doubt be looking to build a dynasty of their own.

“That would be great,” acknowledges Carla. “I have thought about it, but you can’t get too far ahead of yourself.

You always have to focus on the next game – it’s the only way to do it. There are brilliant teams out there, just as good as us. We’ve had many finals where we didn’t perform and if we had, we would have won. On the day of a final, it’s always up for grabs.”

“Ladies sport has grown so much, especially football,” says Olwen, “and there are a lot counties who are constantly pushing each other.

So we know it’s going to be tough to get back to a final, let alone win it.”

As well as the unprecedented attendance for the Dublin-Mayo final last year, there have been numerous other factors that have given the ladies game a boost, including a series of innovative promotional ads by sponsors Lidl; last year’s acclaimed Blues Sisters documentary on Dublin; and Mayo star Cora Staunton’s stint playing Australian rules with Greater Western Sydney earlier this year.

“Lidl have been a massive part of it,” says Carla. “The sport was growing before that, but they’ve given it another huge boost. It’s the best marketing the game has had.”

Drawn and

Quartered 20

MICHAEL DARRAGH MacAULEY

The GAA football championship has caught fire with the kickoff of the inaugural Super 8s. Dublin’s star midfielder Michael Darragh MacAuley talks about the team’s 2018 ambitions, and his encounter with indie heroes The xx, while Kerry forward Darran O’Sullivan chats about their rivalry with Dublin and how the county’s new influx of young guns will help them reach the semi-finals.

Interviews Paul Nolan Portraits Conor Heavey

T

hirty-three teams, whittled down to eight - the first ever Super 8. The round-robin replacement for the All-Ireland quarter finals purports to give the public more games that matter between the very best.

The game’s aristocrats Dublin and Kerry strolled to qualification, winning their provinces handily.

They’ve been drawn in opposite groups, so any meeting between the two can only happen from the semi-final on.

Dublin’s star midfielder Michael Darragh MacAuley says the new format and the prospect of their group with Donegal, Tyrone and Roscommon hasn’t affected Dublin’s approach.

“Jim handles all that – whatever gets reformatted goes through him. We just push ourselves like lunatics and see what happens! But no, it doesn’t affect our focus or anything. I don’t even fully understand it, to be honest. I don’t get bogged down in this kind of thing. I believe there’s a Super 8s going on – I genuinely couldn’t tell you too much about it.”

Having reclaimed the National League title in the spring and dished out a 18 point hammering to Laois in the Leinster final, Jim Gavin’s charges are in excellent shape going into Super 8s, and the bookies’ favourites to once again claim Sam Maguire.

“It’s good that we have a medal in our back pockets after the league, but with the way this team has been going over the last while, people will only remember what happens in September. That’s the facts of it and hopefully we’ll be there to compete.”

“It doesn’t matter what your name is or what awards you have, it doesn’t mean you’ll be in the starting 15 – it doesn’t even mean you’ll be in the squad” Dublin’s dramatic one-point victory over Mayo last September in one of the all-time greatest football finals secured the three-in-a-row, making them the first team to achieve that remarkable feat since Mick O’Dwyer’s great Kerry team in the ’80s. However, with MacAuley absent for the campaign through injury, he admits he didn’t get fully swept up in the euphoria.

“It was tough because of the year I had, coming back from injury,” he reflects. “I wasn’t involved as much I’d like to have been. Obviously, it was euphoric for Dublin, but personally, I still have a whole lot to prove. It’s all to play for this year. I have zero excuses this season – I feel good, the body’s good, so come what may this summer.”

MacAuley – who was Footballer of the Year during

21

Dublin’s All Ireland winning 2013 season – and Brian Fenton established themselves as the top midfield pairing in the country with some sensational performances in the spring, but such is Dublin’s strength in depth currently, the squad are acutely aware of the necessity of maintaining peak performance.

“I know people keep talking about competition on the team, but it is mental,” points out Michael Darragh. “It doesn’t matter what your name is or what awards you have, it doesn’t mean you’ll be in the starting 15 – it doesn’t even mean you’ll be in the squad these days. That’s how crazy the competition is. We’re all pushing each other and seeing where that ends up.”

It’s not just in-squad competition that encourages MacAuley.

He plays a message from his phone: “Michael Darragh – wicked. This is Oliver from The xx and I want to wish you the best of luck on Sunday. I hope you kill it.”

A friend of the footballer’s was interviewing the musician and duly prevailed on him to provide MacAuley with a few words of encouragement. A man who knows his music. MacAuley will draw on them as the championship comes to a head.

DARRAN O’SULLIVAN

Kerrythrough Us

I

n Kerry, the big talking point is the introduction of a raft of young stars from the county’s recent minor teams, who won a remarkable four-in-a-row of All Irelands from 2014-17. Stylish playmaker Sean O’Shea and extravagantly talented corner forward David Clifford have shone.

One of the remaining veterans, dynamic half-forward Darran O’Sullivan, who captained Kerry to the All Ireland in 2009, can’t wait to get stuck into Super 8s action, acknowledging that the new recruits in the Kerry squad make these exciting times for the county.

“In a lot of the bigger counties, you get these periods of transition,” notes O’Sullivan. “We’re lucky enough that at the moment, it’s looking very exciting. David and Seanie are really exciting prospects. There is that youthful exuberance in the set-up; they’ve won All Irelands at underage and they don’t have any fear. I’m hoping that the winning experiences they’ve had coming up through the ranks will help them.”

A combination of Clifford, Paul Geaney and former footballer of the year James O’Donoghue gives Kerry a sensational full forward line. Further back, with O’Shea pulling the strings and taking dead-ball responsiblities at 11 alongside older players like O’Sullivan and star midfielder David Moran, Kerry’s front eight is shaping up very nicely

“David and Seanie are really exciting prospects.

They’ve won All Irelands at underage and they don’t have any fear.”

22

- as hauls of 0-32 and 3-18 in the Munster Championships attest to.

“On paper, things look very good, although it doesn’t always work out that way,” cautions O’Sullivan. “You don’t know how things will pan out with injuries, form, suspensions and so on. But the more fellas we have chomping at the bit, looking after the body and feeling good, the better it’s going to be for Kerry.”

Surveying the football landscape, there’s no doubt that Jim Gavin’s Dublin cast a very large shadow. Notably, Kerry’s league final win last year is one of just two big games the Dubs have lost in Gavin’s five-year tenure.

“There’s no denying it, they’re a step or two ahead of most teams at the moment,” Darran acknowledges. “Fair play to Dublin – they’ve kicked it on and maintained their hunger, which is a massive achievement itself. Dublin go and attack the game, play to their strengths and don’t worry too much about the opposition. It’s up to everyone else to concentrate on their own strong points and hopefully on the day, they can push them.”

In the noughties, O’Sullivan’s Kerry team had some mighty tussles with Mickey Harte’s Tyrone, who won three All-Irelands between 2003 and 2008. Where does the current Dublin team rank in terms of the best sides he’s played against?

“They’re definitely the best team I’ve played against,” he replies. “Dublin have done something Tyrone didn’t do, and that’s win it again the following year.”

Calor BioLPG

Makes History

D Barry Spellman (Calor), Danny Cahill (Customer), Shane Smyth (Worcester Bosch), Mary Cahill (Customer), Mícheál Hackett (O’Neill’s Plumbing & Heating).

anny Cahill, from Co. Kildare, has recently become the first home owner to move to Calor BioLPG, Ireland’s first and only renewable LPG solution. O’Neill Plumbing and Heating helped to facilitate this little piece of history, by installing a Worcester Bosch boiler for Danny, Ireland’s first domestic Calor BioLPG customer.

Since Calor launched BioLPG in April, there has been significant interest from homeowners and businesses around Ireland who want to play their part in positively impacting our environment. Calor BioLPG is certified at EU level, as offering up to 90% lower emissions compared to fossil fuels. BioLPG is virtually identical to the Calor LPG products that customers across the country use to power their homes and businesses every day. Because BioLPG is virtually the same as conventional LPG, it works seamlessly with existing gas appliances and equipment. This means that customers can make the move to using renewable energy without any hassle or major expenditure. Existing LPG boilers, dryers and other machinery will operate just as they always have, but will now be even better for the environment.

Commenting on the installation, Mark O’Neill of O’Neill Plumbing and Heating; “The launch of BioLPG gives all of us, as energy users, another reason to seriously consider the switch to a cleaner heating system and make a contribution to safeguarding our environment.”

TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT SWITCHING YOUR HOME TO BIOLPG, PLEASE CONTACT CALOR ON:

T: (ROI) 1850 812 450 or (NI) 028 9045 5588 W: http://www.calorgas.ie/biolpg/

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Award winning cocktails Kids eat for free on weekends (up until 6pm) +353 1 6794057 reservations@thunderroadcafe.com Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2

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23

Animation

Once Again 24

Nora Twomey

As one of the creative voices behind Oscar-nominated Kilkenny animation studio Cartoon Saloon, Nora Twomey has been at the forefront of a moviemaking revolution in Ireland. With the release of her Afghanistan-set new movie The Breadwinner she explains why cartoons aren’t just for kids and talks about the fight to bring gender equality to the industry

N

ora Twomey can now call herself an Oscars regular. The animator, director and co-founder of Cartoon Saloon has now been to the Academy Awards on three occasions, with The Secret Of Kells, Song Of The Sea and now her stunning feature, The Breadwinner, which tells the story of Parvana, an 11-year old girl in Afghanistan who must disguise herself as a boy to help her family. Nominated for Best Animated Film at this year’s Academy Awards, the film is rightfully scooping up praise left, right and centre for its incredible artistry and emotional tale of resilience.

Was making an animated film about Afghanistan a hard sell considering we more commonly associate animation with cheerful kids’ films?

“Animation is a medium, it’s not a genre,” says Twomey. “But we treat it like a genre. We believe that, with animation, you need to be able to plonk a three year-old in front of it while you go off and do the ironing. It’s capable of doing so much more, and it can activate people’s empathy in a way live action sometimes has trouble doing.

Because when you simplify a character down to just a few lines, it makes the character more universal. So watching a young girl like Parvana go through some of the things she does in the film, in live action that would be utterly heartbreaking, maybe too much. But through animation, it’s filtered through the artists’ hand, through brushstrokes and the animators’ pencils. In a way, it sugars the pill because you can explore deep issues with artistry and beauty and skill. Animation has been branded a babysitter. It is an artform.”

Apart from the hard sell of convincing adults to attend an animated feature, The Breadwinner also presented Twomey with another challenge. While Song Of The Sea and The Secret Of Kells were based in Ireland and used traditional Irish art to craft its style, The Breadwinner – based on the book by Deborah Ellis – is set in Afghanistan, a country with a complex history of culture, conflict and religion. Twomey knew the only way to approach it was to listen to the voices of others.

“I knew we needed to include the voices of as many Afghan people as possible,” says the director, “so that even if all of the specifics of each of their stories weren’t included, the tone and feel of the film would be one where you understood we were depicting a complex, rich, deep heritage, and the story of a people who have been through decades of conflict. When you go into a film like The Breadwinner like I did, you need to go in without an ego, knowing you know nothing. Because then you have the opportunity to listen and learn.”

But the joy and beauty of The Breadwinner is that it is so accessible and empathetic.

“When I read Deborah Ellis’ book, I found things to connect with in that character in a really strong way,” says Twomey.

“And even though I didn’t know about what it would be like to grow up in that environment, I understood her. And that is the power of story, that no matter where it’s set, we’ll follow a child

25

“We were depicting a complex, rich, deep heritage, and the story of a people who have been through decades of conflict.” who has courage and flaws and love. Anyone can understand that.”

The story centres on the struggle of a girl whose rights and autonomy are denied because of her gender – a subject that feels incredibly prescient. Twomey was at the Golden Globes and Oscars this year and so has been surrounded by discourse around gender equality in film – but is the animation industry any better in terms of equality and representation?

“It depends on where you are,” muses the director. “When I started out in college, I was one of four girls in a room of 30 students. But if I go in to a college now, it’s 50-50.

Encouragement is needed for women at every stage of the industry, to make sure that they stay and particularly that they strive for the next level, that they seek out the recognition of their work. I would, on a production, find problems and try solve all of those problems myself, instead of saying ‘No, I’m not doing that, I’m going to become a supervisor.’

“Women need to be encouraged not to take on more work, and they often need to be told ‘Your responsibility now is to move up a level, train someone else into your position there, and keep moving. Keep ascending.’ That’s the kind of balance we need, it’s not just about entry level numbers, it’s about position and power.”

Like many women, Twomey is somewhat exhausted by having to constantly fight for the rights of women – and like many women, she also knows these conversations are necessary.

“On the one hand, I’m sick to the teeth of answering questions about being a woman in the industry. I know I have to have these conversations, so that my nieces never have to, so that the next generation can enter the film industry and never feel that they’re being held back because of their gender.”

A Hamm For All

Seasons

He found fame as Mad Men’s tortured Don Draper.

But now Jon Hamm is dipping a toe in comedy with new movie Tag. He explains why he wants to tickle audiences’ funnybones.

26

JON HAMM

F

or many people, summer brings memories of youth. In one of the summer’s biggest comedies, Tag, old schoolfriends are taking nostalgia a bit too far. Based on a true story, Tag stars Jon Hamm, Jeremy Renner, Jake Johnson, Hannibal Burress and Ed Helms as five highly competitive friends who spend a month a year playing the same no-holds-barred game of tag they’ve been at since the first grade. They risk their necks, their jobs and their relationships to take each other down, with the battle cry “You’re It!” This year, the game coincides with the wedding of their only undefeated player, which should finally make him an easy target.

But he knows they’re coming - and he’s ready.

Meeting star Jon Hamm in a bar in Atlanta, Georgia during the filming of Tag, the 47 year-old actor is having a blast improvising with Ed Helms and Hannibal Burress. Watching him in his element, it would be easy to forget how long Hamm struggled to get his big break.

Through the ’90s, Hamm scraped by on blink-and-you’llmiss-him appearances on shows like Gilmore Girls, Ally McBeal, Providence, and Related, before getting his first film roles in

“Comedy is so subjective and different people find different things funny, depending on your history, your culture, so many different things ” Space Cowboys and Kissing Jessica Stein, an indie comedy written by his then-partner Jennifer Westfeldt. But in 2007, that all changed when he took the role as mysterious advertising executive Don Draper on the highly acclaimed drama Mad Men, a role he played for eight years.

Don Draper shot him to the A-list. He suddenly had his pick of roles – but he always gravitated towards comedy, in films like Bridesmaids and Wet Hot American Summer: First Day Of Camp.

“Comedy is so subjective and different people find different things funny, depending on your history, your culture, so many different things - that’s why they famously say that comedy never travels,” Hamm muses. “The interesting thing about this film and what we tried to hit home with it is that even though we’re making a very adult, R-rated comedy, it’s really about a fairly universal, silly game that children play. A game that this group of friends has continued to play well into their adulthood. If we do it right, and the movie comes out with as much heart as we intend it to have, it will not only make people laugh at the ridiculous and hilarious situations our characters find themselves in, but it’ll also make people think about the idea of sharing a friendship and history with a group of people since childhood. I think there’s something to be said to that, infusing nostalgia into what is a very broad comedy.”

Hamm has previously confessed to a competitive streak, and admits he used to walk on the set on Mad Men thinking “I’m going to be the best person on this show”. Surrounded by comedy heavy-hitters, does he still have that swagger?

“I’m less confident about this world – I’m not unconfident, but I pretty much have that streak about everything I do,” he admits.

“I want to try my hardest and do my best – I can’t say I succeed one hundred percent of the time, but I do always bring that in the morning when I wake up. I say ‘Okay, let’s do this the best we can’ – and I hope that everyone else is on the same page.

Everyone is trying to compete in one way, but also to collude –

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Media

207

BUSINESS

La ‘Bello

Vita

Serenely located alongside Portobello’s swans, chef Chris Maguire has made Lock’s restaurant one of the best-run places in town.

Interview Jason O’Toole Photography Miguel Ruiz

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hile the fine food and great service are the driving force at the legendary Portobello restaurant Lock’s, it also benefits from being in a lovely, picture postcard location, overlooking what is a really tranquil stretch of the Grand Canal. Swans gather nearby, drifting past Locks, between Harold’s Cross Bridge and Portobello.

“It’s serene,” Chef Chris Maguire smiles “It’s gorgeous – rain or shine. It’s a really picturesque setting. At the same time, we’re just outside the city centre. When people walk to Locks, they realise it’s just there on the canal.”

Maguire took over the reins at Locks a few short months ago, when it was already established as one of the city’s chic-est destinations, winning the Best Private Dining and Club Restaurant award at the Irish Restaurant Awards 2018. But Chris has been cooking up such a storm that there’s a fresh sense of excitement about the place.

Talented chefs may often be egotistical, but Chris – who was raised in Canada, before returning here first 12 years ago at the age of 19 – isn’t inclined to blow his own trumpet. He insists that the key to Lock’s success is straightforward: it’s all about good quality fare, using superb ingredients – and having the staff to deliver that in real style to customers.

It’s something he picked up from his Dublin schooling. “I love Dublin. I did my apprenticeship here,” he says, adding that he’ll be forever grateful for being giving the opportunity to start out at the Michelin-star restaurant, Chapter One. “It was brilliant. I was only 19 when I was there. It was definitely a turning point for me.

It opened my eyes to what can be done. The restaurant itself is a brilliant machine. To do it to that standard and be that busy is an amazing achievement.

“I wouldn’t have this opportunity if I had not taken that opportunity,” he adds. “The truth is that I don’t feel like I’m bringing my talent to the city – I learnt virtually everything I know here. I went to London and had experience; I went to Canada and had experience. But I just love Dublin.

It’s the place I always wanted to be.”

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BUSINESS

LOCK’S RESTAURANT

Locking Them In Chris isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel at Lock’s. “We’re a neighbourhood restaurant. The focus is on changing menus as often as we can and keeping locals interested – but also on aiming to attract people from other walks of life to come into the restaurant, to try out the food. And to do that, you want to make really nice food that people want to eat.”

Small plates at the start include sourdough bread with – a fantastic touch – smoked trout and dillisk butter. The asparagus starter is served with cured egg, lardo and black garlic – another gorgeous, winning flourish. And the main course cod comes with smoked bacon, baby gem lettuce and (another inspired twist) buttermilk. It is these smart and original culinary combinations which make the food really special.

“We’re never going to be The Greenhouse or Chapter One,” he jokes. “But we do want people to leave the restaurant thinking, ‘Wow! I had a really fantastic time at Locks. I got my money’s worth and I was well looked after’.”

Being well looked after is hugely important. Theres’s a crew of talented front-of-house people, as well as kitchen staff, from all over the world working in Lock’s, with General Manager Andressa Coutinho and restaurant manager Kristina Gvazdaityte among those to the fore. Their friendly touch and fine attention to detail are vital to bowling over first-time visitors. Chris loves “making regulars out of people who have just been here once” In his downtime, Chris likes to pop into The Fourth Corner pub, on the corner of Kevin Street and Patrick Street.

“When I finish on a Saturday night, the last thing I want to do is be in a room full of people,” he grins. “A quiet pub would be more interesting for me. I’d much prefer a pint on a Wednesday afternoon, on my day off, than on a Saturday night after work.”

Chris also likes to spend his downtime skating – and naturally enough, going out for a meal. But he insists on switching off when he breaks bread in a different establishment.

Dublin Worldwide “I try not to go to fancy restaurants,” he says. “I just want to go somewhere casual and have a nice meal and not be noticed.”

Food-wise, there is much more of a multi-cultural thing going on in Dublin now – are there any ethnic restaurants that stand out?

“I think that’s propbably always been there,” he suggests. “You think of Parnell Street – the Asian restaurants there. And Capel Street – the Korean restaurants. People are just a little bit more aware of it. In the last 10 years, people have taken a lot more interest in food. Everybody has an interest in food now.”

He names Yamamori (on George’s Street and Lwr. Ormond Quay).

Aoki Sushi Noodle Bar in Dublin 2, Zakura in Wexford Street and Musashi’s on Capel Street as favourites.

“Yamamori do a great job,” he says. “The food is great value, but really consistent. And they’re open all the time, which is a great thing.”

For Chris, Dublin stands head and shoulders above bigger cities because there’s a real “sense of community” in the capital.

“It’s a city but it’s really a small town,” he says. “When you’re walking around the city centre in Dublin, you’re going to run into somebody. Also, people promote each other here. In London, it feels like there’s a massive competition, where everyone’s against each other. But here if you know somebody has tables, you’re not going to ‘not send’ people there so that they don’t have the business. Everyone helps each other out. Even with regard to chefs, if a restaurant’s short of staff and you know somebody who’s looking for a job, you’re going to send them there.”

Chris loves the fact that living in the city, close to his work, means that he is never stuck in traffic.

“That’s part of the allure,” he points out. “In London, you’re always on a train or a bus – everything is an hour away. Whereas in Dublin, everywhere is a five-minute walk.”

He likes the multi-cultural vibe in Locks itself.

“Yeah, there’s very few Irish people working here. It’s the make up of Dublin now – it’s a multicultural city.”

Locks Restaurant, 1 Windsor Terrace, Dublin 8. Tel: (01) 416 3655. locksrestaurant.ie / enquiries@locksrestaurant.ie

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Liam Carney and (inset) Liam O Mochain

He’s Found What

He’s Looking For The thrills and spills of rail-travel are celebrated in a new movie from Liam O Mochain.

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hile travelling on the train, have you ever wondered about the lives of your fellow passengers? Or the people who work at train stations? Well, Lost & Found is the film for you!

Written, directed by and starring Liam O Mochain, Lost & Found is a feature film with seven interconnected stories, set in and around a lost and found office of an Irish train station. Much of it was filmed at stations in Co. Laois, Dublin and on an actual trains travelling across Ireland, and many of the stories were inspired by true events. United by characters who weave in and out of each others’ lives in unexpected ways, the film is about what we have lost and what we have found – and these aren’t always physical things.

If you are familiar with Oscar-nominated film Boyhood, then you’ll know that the Richard Linklater film was filmed over 12 years, with shooting happening over a few days every summer. O Mochain took a similar approach.

“Boyhood took 12 years, we filmed over five years but then with post-production it’s taken us seven years in total to bring it out.

So it’s been a long, long time! It was filmed over a five year period from 2011 to 2016.”

This approach came about due to several reasons, explains O Mochain.

“I had made a film previously called WC which was set in one location – the toilets of a late-night jazz bar – and it took such a long time to make that I was burned out by the time we even got to releasing it. You’re just tired of the thing! I stayed with it,

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Liam O Mochain

“Having a collection of little stories means there’s something for everyone – if you don’t like one story, you can move on to the next one, like singles on an album.” released it, it was in cinemas in Ireland and the UK and across the world. When I finished I made a short film that was set in one location, as a kind of breather. But making the short, I thought it was a really interesting idea to come together with a crew for a few days to work on something – but repeatedly. Because making the short, I realised people are really willing and able to give you their time and energy and enthusiasm for a few days that they may not be able to do a longer project because of other commitments.

So I decided to try take on that idea for my next project, where you shoot different segments that are like independent short films that can stand alone – but then they come together.

It’s also an insurance policy in a way, in case the crew didn’t come back, in case we couldn’t fund the other pieces, in case the stories didn’t come together – at least then I’d have a couple of short films!”

Luckily for O Mochain, the actors and crew loved the idea of getting back together every year, which was over the same Bank Holiday weekend every summer, from 2011 to 2016. (And amazingly, none of the actors appear to age. There are some good skincare routines happening here!)

For O Mochain, finding inspiration for the stories was the easy part – he had already amassed a wealth of tales on his travels through Ireland and beyond. O Mochain plays Daniel in the film, the new train station employee who mans the Lost and Found counter. In one of the vignettes, a baby is found on the platform – and handed into the hapless Daniel.

“That’s based on a story of a guy who is picking up kids from a preschool, and there was a child left alone on the bus,” O Mochain explains. “He didn’t know where to bring the child, so brought him to a homeless shelter – as you do! It was just the idea that someone would find a child somewhere and not know where to go or what to do, and what’s the weirdest, strangest place you could bring them – the lost and found office, of course!”

Another one of O Mochain’s adventures on an Irish train added fuel to this idea.

“I was on a train from Dublin to Maynooth and there was a woman sitting opposite us with a pram,” he recalls. “She said ‘I really need to go to the toilet, would you guys watch the baby, I want to go now because I’m getting off at the next stop.’ So we said yes, but when we reached Maynooth, she was still in the toilet.

So we thought we’d help her and lifted the pram out and brought it down to the platform – but of course that just looked like we were stealing the child! She thankfully came out and said thanks so it was fine, but the idea that someone would leave a child with someone else just seemed really interesting and good for a story!”

Other chapters in Lost & Found revolve around a man who begs for money outside the train station, and his surprising backstory; a nervous man planning a very romantic trip for his girlfriend, that all goes a bit wrong; and an adventure to search for a family heirloom that may or may not exist. The stories are sweet and funny and occasionally heartbreaking – with Daniel weaving in and out of most of them.

O Mochain enjoyed double-billing as the lead actor and director.

“All the stories are linked through the idea of something lost or something found, whether physical or metaphysical,” explains O

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Fionnula Flaherty and Lynette Callaghan Mochain. So I wanted one person to connect the stories so you got a sense of familiarity and felt like the stories were connected.”

The ensemble cast includes Aoibhín Garrihy (The Fall; Fair City; Dancing with the Stars), Liam Carney (Red Rock; Outlander), Norma Sheahan (Can’t Cope, Won’t Cope; Moone Boy), Sean Flanagan (Foil Arms & Hog), Anthony Morris (Games of Thrones), Seamus Hughes (Jimmy’s Hall; Klondike), Barbara Adair (Derry Girls), Brendan Conroy (Vikings), Tom O Suilleabhain (Maze), Olga Wehrly (The Clinic), Diarmuid Noyes (Borgia), Liam O Mochain (WC), Lynette Callaghan (Cold Feet), Daniel Costelloe (Albert Nobbs) and Donncha Crowley (Fr Ted).

O Mochain is delighted with the incredible cast, who came back every year to share their talents.

“We got such a great mixture of people, and just like the stories are a balancing act of happiness and sadness, humour and tragedy, I wanted the film to feel balanced in a realistic way,” O Mochain says. “I wasn’t specifically aiming for a quota of age or gender or anything, but I wanted it to feel like a slice of life with people of different ages, and I think that makes for an interesting fusion on and offscreen.”

The film has been receiving rave reviews both at home and abroad. It was an audience favourite at the Galway Film Fleadh, won Best Foreign Film at the Arizona International Film Festival and has been picked up by Film 4 in the U.K. O Mochain believes its appeal lies in the various stories and the relatable experiences and emotions he captures onscreen.

“I think it’ll bring back memories of great stories, like finding crutches or wedding dresses or weird stuff on trains or buses, or meeting interesting characters,” he says. “I’ve already had so many people online telling me about the stuff that turns up in the different Lost and Found offices. Normally it’s books and phones and hates, but I did talk to people in Irish Rail and they’ve found stuff like crutches and wheelchairs, which just makes you think ‘How did the person get off without this??’”

The structure also makes it impossible to resist, as the different chapters allow you to find your favourite moments, characters and stories – so there’s literally something for everyone.

“It’s both an urban and rural film about Ireland,” asserts O Mochain. “It’s like a short story collection, but visual, about characters that I think will feel relatable and recognisable. And I think having a collection of little stories means there’s something for everyone – if you don’t like one story, you can move on to the next one, like singles on an album.”

Lost & Found is in cinemas now

THE IRISH FOOD REVOLUTION

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The Irish Food Revolution

We Are

The Champions The past few years has seen a massive explosion in Irish artisan food and drink.

In some cases what’s ending up on our plates and in our glasses is brand new, in others it’s a revival of centuries’ old traditions. By way of celebration, we talk to some of the key figures in the Irish food revolution, examine the role its played in our tourism success stories - and ask “what’s next?”

Report: Stuart Clark

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o shots have been fired, but make no mistake; Ireland is in the grips of a food and drink revolution that has permeated every parish, and changed the way we eat both at home and when we go out to the veritable United Nations of dining establishments that we now have to choose from.

Driving the revolution is our produce, which whether Connemara Hill Lamb, Carlingford Lough Mussels, Wexford Farmhouse Camembert, Achill Island Sea Salt, Dungarvan Red Ale, Cork Single Spot Still Whiskey, Wild Wicklow Garlic or Armagh Cider Apples, ranks alongside the finest in the world.

Of course, it wasn’t always this way. Up until the 1980s when cheese counters made their appearance here, those in need of a frommage fix were often limited to Calvita, Dairylea, Kilmeaden and a form of ‘parmesan’ that smelt like old rugby socks, and came in a sawn-off toilet roll painted red.

Many of our more, ahem, mature readers will also recall the choice of wine in even upmarket restaurants being a stark “Blue or Black?” Great if you were a Blue Nun or Black Tower afficianado, but not so good if your vin de choice was a cheeky Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

There were, however, some important voices in the wilderness.

“Myrtle Allen was talking about how wonderful our produce was and cooking up a storm in her West Cork kitchen back in the 1950s,” Rachel Allen says of her pioneering in-law who sadly passed away in June. “What I realised when I went to Ballymaloe first, as a student, is that Darina’s passion for food filtered down from her mother who is 93 today and still going strong!”

Asked to list her other foodie heroes, Rachel lets out a long sigh and then says, “Oh, there are so many! I’ve huge respect for those

people who get up at six in the morning all-year round to man a market stall. Three of my favourites are Mahon Point Farmers Market, which takes place on Thursday and the Middleton Farmers Market and the Limerick Milk Market, which are both on Saturday.

As a city, Limerick gets a lots of undeserved negative coverage in the media, but they adore their food there and really get behind their local producers.”

Clodagh McKenna’s first best-seller was 2006’s The Irish Farmers’ Market Cookbook, a celebration of the country’s artisan food producers that took her from Mizen Head to Malin Head.

“My perfect Sunday off in Dublin is piecing together brunch at the Dún Laoghaire Market in the People’s Park, and then going to Dalkey for a pint in Finnegan’s where Bono had lunch with Michelle Obama and the kids, and from there on to the Guinea Pig, which is a brilliant fish restaurant,” she tells us. “In addition to Dún Laoghaire I adore Temple Bar Market on Saturday. In Cork, you’ve got Mahon Point and the Middleton Market on Thursday and Saturday respectively, and also on Saturday there’s the Galway Market outside Sheridan’s Cheesemongers on The Square. That’d be my weekly top 5.”

Now that we have all this wonderful food and drink it’s only right that we should shout about it – which is where Fáilte Ireland comes in.

Along with their other work promoting tourism around the country, they’ve been responsible for developing the Wild Atlantic Way, Ireland’s Ancient East, Dublin and recently launched Ireland’s Hidden Heartland’s, all ‘experience brands’ that have gripped the imagination of not only overseas visitors, but also Irish people who previously mightn’t have been fully aware of what these areas have to offer. Needless to say, food is at the heart of all of these hugely successful initiatives.

“On the Wild Atlantic Way, the food and drink scene is very much terroir-based,” reflects Sinéad Hennessy from their Food Tourism team. “We’re looking at visitor experiences that are totally

“Produce, place and people. We’re truly spoilt in all three areas, and it’s getting more exciting by the day.”

Clockwise from left: Rachel Allen.

Sinéad Hennessy, Clodagh McKenna, Ireland’s Ancient East & Donal Skehan.

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THE IRISH FOOD REVOLUTION

Food Champion

GABRIE L F LAHE RT Y ARAN ISLAND FOOD TOURS

I’m born and bred in the Aran islands. I spent 20 years as a deep-sea fisherman. I spent 15 years in the North Sea around Norway and Denmark and the Faroe Islands and Iceland. The last trip I did on the big boat was off the coast of Chile. So I’ve lived a very varied lifestyle.

I make Aran islands goats cheese. We opened a new Économusée down the farm this summer, one of just six in Ireland. It relays the story of what we do so visitors can read about it for free.

We have a little farm shop selling local products and Wild Atlantic Way stuff like jams, honeys, goats cheese and cow cheese from a friend of mine who makes it in Mayo. I was one of 16 Food Champions picked out of 400, which is an enormous honour. I was eyes and ears on the ground for Failte Ireland to see what’s making the tourist tick.

I do food and bus tours on the island. I started out as a tour operator with a pony and a trap when I was 12. I got a loan off my mum and I paid it off the first year. I used to give her 90% and keep 10% of my earnings. After I paid it off we split it 50/50. There was always a lot of tourists coming to the island. I’m a people person, I like talking to and meeting new people.

I actually had a woman on the bus with me from the States who’d been on a tour with me when I had a pony and trap 31 years ago. We have a group from Kentucky that come every year. The first time it was for just a day, the second for three days. They’re coming again for three nights this year. When dealing with tourists it’s very important to paint a picture for them. I don’t want to just run them through the tour. I’d rather they want to come back next year. There’s an Irish-language college on the island here so I also bring the students to and from it as well.

I packed in fishing when we got the goats about nine years ago. My morning starts at 6am for milking and I don’t finish until about 11pm. My wife did a soap course last year. Our intention in the future is to make ice cream. We’ll expand our product range and hopefully the business. We’re growing it slowly. In the beginning I wanted our products in every shop in the country. Not any more. I’d rather people come out, do a tour and visit the shop and try different things. Not only will they get a feel for the place – they’ll go home with a taste of it, too.

A selection of Ireland’s artisan tipples

shaped by the sea, and developing a strong seafood influence on that side of the country, such as Taste The Atlantic, a seafood trail which presents our world class mussels, oysters and smoked salmon and abalone as well as the people and places that make it. Visitors should be able to taste the scenery – which is sheep on the hills and fish in the sea – as they stop off along the route.

“In Ireland’s Ancient East, the food and drink story is very much about tradition and

The health of the Irish drinks industry was evident during the spring as the brewing, distilling and cider-making clans gathered at the Conference Centre Dublin, for the 2018 Alltech Craft Brews & Food Fair. Established names like Wicklow Wolf, Galway Hooker, 12 Acres and Rye River rubbed kegs with such brew kids on the block as Larkin’s and Ballykilcavan, who are only just up and running.

The craft beer way has been cleared for them by the likes of Seamus O’Hara who quit the sciences/healthcare industry to set up the Carlow Brewing Company.

“It was challenging when we started in the 1990s because, apart from the occasional import, people here weren’t used to new

“We’ve noticed a sharp increase in producers looking to diversify into tourism.” the likes of your ancient grains for distilling and brewing. It’s the bounty of Ireland; that geographical area has the most food production. The soil quality is exceptional, so the root vegetables are really good, as is the grass-fed beef. Dublin is about this emerging food and drink scene. You’ve excellent bars and restaurants popping up, including unusual concepts like Eatyard. It’s become a food capital on a par with anywhere in Europe.

“Whether you’re visiting for a weekend or a fortnight, there are enough breweries, distilleries, shops and places to eat to plan your holiday around.”

Asked to sum up what’s central to the Irish food and drink experience, Sinéad shoots back: “Produce, place and people. We’re truly spoilt in all three areas, and it’s getting more exciting by the day.”

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beers or ones that had a pronounced hop flavour,” he reflects. “They’d be a Guinness drinker or a Heineken drinker. Fast-forward to now and you’ve over a hundred breweries on the island and countless beer styles. Craft is still only 3.5% of the total Irish beer market compared to over 20% in the States, but the industry has really matured. One of our newest markets is Croatia. It’s a tough old slog because you’re competing against some excellent local beers, but the Irish brand is very strong internationally.”

Meanwhile, what’s striking about the modern Irish spirits industry is its diversity.

On the one hand you’ve boutique operations like County Waterford’s Anchor Spirits, who’ve gradually built their operation – the makers of Thin Gin recently unleashed a punky new upstart, Spike Island Spiced Rum – and on the other you’ve Diageo

NICK BRADSHAW

Food Champion

MA R K M U R P H Y, LITTLE CHEESE SHOP

Bernard Walsh has been at the forefront of the Irish whiskey revolution €25 million-plus on a new distillery at St. James’ Gate, which should be on stream by early 2019.

With Teeling Whiskey and the Pearse Lyons Distillery already up and running in Dublin 8, and the €15m Liberties Distillery making its bow on Mill Street later in the spring, the capital is looking more and more attractive as a whiskey tourism destination.

Reflecting on the fast-moving nature of the industry, Walsh Whiskey’s Bernard Walsh, says: “Six years ago there were only three fully operational distilleries in Ireland; now we have over 20. We’re the fastest growing whiskey producer in the world, and have been given our own geographical indication, like Champagne and Cognac, in order to protect it and the strict quality guidelines that make Irish whiskey so special and unique.”

Based in Carlow, Bernard’s Walsh Whiskey operation now exports its premium, triple-distilled Writers Tears and The Irishman brands to 40 countries worldwide. The dawn of a new year has found them distilling the world’s first ever Organic Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey, which will be released in 2023 at the earliest. An important part of Walsh’s business is the welcoming of visitors to their distillery at Royal Oak in Carlow where the giant stills, which weigh five tonnes apiece, are the stars of the show. They’re not alone in honing their visitor experience.

“We’ve noticed a sharp increase in producers looking to diversify into tourism,” Fáilte Ireland’s Sinéad Hennessy resumes. “Someone who’s blazed a bit of a trail in that department is Siobhán Ní Ghairbhith from St. Tola Cheese who’s been welcoming people to her beautiful farm in the Burren for a number of years. You get to meet the goats and see the cheese being made; it’s a fantastic day out. All of our artisan producers have a unique story to tell.”

When I tell Sinéad that the new man in the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Andy McFadden, has St. Tola’s Goats Cheese on the Glovers Alley menu, she notes that, “Andy is part of this new wave of incredible chefs who are re-imagining Irish food in

brilliant new ways. I was at Adare Manor yesterday, where they’ve really given creative licence to their young chef, Michael Tweedie. People like him and Andy are following in the tradition of Ross Lewis in Chapter One and JP McMahon in Aniar, who have been innovating for years.”

With the likes of Sea Bass with Dublin Bay Prawn, Thai Spices & Lime on the Adare Manor Tasting Menu, we’ll be heading down soon to Limerick, where a pint of Treaty City Brewing’s Harris Pale Ale will also be had.

“I think it’s brilliant that somebody can go to, in this case, Limerick, ask ‘Are there any local beers, whiskies or cheeses?’ and be told, ‘We have these really lovely ones for you to try,’” Sinéad adds. “This sense of, and pride in, place is key to developing food tourism.”

Let us not forget the part the multiples are playing in the Irish food revolution with Tesco, Dunne’s, Aldi and Lidl noticeably upping their Irish food offerings over the past 12 months.

SuperValu have gone the extra yard by linking up with Bord Bia and the Local Enterprise Office Network to create the Food Academy mentoring programme. Among the 300-plus homegrown producers of varying sizes on SuperValu shelves at the moment are Scotts Irish Cider, who’ve benefited greatly from the in-store tasting sessions they’ve done.

“Whenever you do a tasting you’re guaranteed to have somebody say, ‘All ciders are the same, aren’t they?’ and then go, ‘Wow, that’s different!’ when we give them some of ours to try,” Jonathan Scott told us after a recent visit to a SuperValu store in Kells. “It’d be the same if they’d only tried the one type of bread or chocolate bar. Once you give people a sample and tell them a bit about it, they realise that every cider has its own unique characteristics.”

Scott is also a big fan of the local food festivals that have been popping up around the country like mushrooms (the folk from Ballyhoura grow some of our favourite Irish ones!).

“Taste of Cavan is one of the biggest and best

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I took the Little Cheese Shop over in the last three months. It had been there for eight years, under the ownership of Maja Binder. Maja came to the Dingle Peninsula in 1997, having trained as a cheesemaker in the Black Forest in her native Germany. She used to produce her cheese for the store.

Since I’ve taken over, I’ve focused on all of the incredible Irish cheeses that we have – 80 or 90% of my stock is Irish.

It’s a unique shop. It highlights the incredible produce from not just the Dingle Peninsula, but from all over Ireland. Every town should have a cheese shop. That way there’s access to quality farmhouse and artisan cheese; that’s what The Little Cheese Shop does really well.

For that reason, it’s attractive to both visitors and locals. There’s a broad range of people that come in.

Whether it’s from the United States, Canada, France or Switzerland, they’re starting to recognise a lot of the Irish cheeses. They have international appeal.

It’s a specialist shop. While you can get cheese almost anywhere, we’re responsible for providing customers with the best cheese that we can find. Where other shops sell loads of produce, I just sell cheese and the accompaniments. This means I spend more time with the cheese, sourcing the best around.

It’s The Little Cheese Shop, so we have no plans to expand. I want to continue showcasing local and regional cheesemakers. Cheese is very seasonal: some of the ones I have this month I might not have next month. I’m hoping to have picnic baskets and hampers very soon. I’m also going to start specialising in wedding cheesecakes and wine, too, so that you can take the wine along with your cheese.

THE IRISH FOOD REVOLUTION

Food Champion

TO M FLAV IN THE STRAND HOTEL, LIMERICK

The Strand used to be a Jury’s Inn back in the day. About 20 years ago, the hotel was bought, knocked to the ground and rebuilt as the Hilton.

That’s when I started. I’ve been here 11 years now. We have over 50 local suppliers on our menu with whom we deal directly. If we support the local economy, they will in turn support us. We’ve applied for planning permission for another 20 bedrooms. Each will have a balcony.

So it will be something nice to offer to Limerick.

We have a super team of 26 chefs. Everybody works really hard. We bounce ideas off each other and encourage each other to do better.

I grew up on a farm in west Limerick. I was always interested in food. I didn’t go to college, I just taught myself. I left home when I was 18 and travelled to the Philippines, London and all around Australia, I worked in so many different five-star hotels and restaurants. I realised that the produce in Ireland was far better than what I was working with abroad. It made me appreciate what we have. That’s why I stayed here.

In the Limerick Food Group, there’s people from all walks of life; Olivia O’Sullivan writes for the Limerick Post, David Fitzgerald is the manager of the Milk Market, Pete Pickett is a chef in The Good Room in Adare, Stephen Cunneen owns Treaty City Brewery, we have two girls that are running Wellnice Pops, we have Theresa Storey who makes jams and chutneys, Eithne Gavigan who is a lecturer in Limerick Institute of Technology. We have an idea and no matter how mad it might sound, we just seem to pull it off. We did a Pig Parade last year in Limerick City, parading a big pig down the streets.

Our next big event is The Pigtown Food Series in September. Éigse Michael Hartnett is a poetry festival in Limerick. They’re going to get involved in Pigtown this year, maybe get some pig-style poetry. It pulls different demographics together that mightn’t normally mix.

Being selected Food Champion for Fáilte Ireland has been fantastic. It puts me in touch with like-minded people from all over Ireland.

There’s Niall Sabongi in Dublin, Olivia Duff in Boyne Valley, Mark Murphy in Kerry. All these people would be similar to me and involved in organisations trying to do the best for raising the profile of Irish food.

Top Tipp: Roz Purcell

events we attend,” he resumes. “There were 40,000 people there last year, all of whom 31 were majorly into supporting their local producers.”

Taste Of Cavan returns this year on August 10 & 11 with its biggest line-up yet.

Also taking place in August are the Big Grill Festival in Dublin’s Herbert Park (16-19); Taste Of Kildare (19); Dalkey Lobster Festival (2426); A Taste Of Donegal (24-26); and the Irish

kitchen thinking, ‘What the hell are we were doing?’ It’s live, so if you spill hot oil over yourself they can’t edit out your screams!

The propensity for disaster was huge, but we muddled our way through and the next day had strangers coming up to us and saying, ‘You were great last night on the telly!’ which was a massive buzz. For us, it’s 100% about promoting quality Irish ingredients and products.”

“Our food culture is something people here should really cherish.”

Game & Country Fair, which is taking place at Shane’s Castle in Antrim (25-26).

A great place to catch up with Ireland’s increasingly diverse range of chefs is TV3’s The Six O’Clock Show, which has recently had Kwanghi Chan, Derry Clarke, Yvonne Connolly, Aisling Larkin, Sophie Morris, Kevin Dundon, The Happy Pear twins and Patrick Hanlon and Russell Alford, AKA the GastroGays, rustling up tasty fast-eats in its kitchen.

“We started off doing a food and travel blog as a hobby and bit by bit it’s turned into a full-time profession,” Russell enthuses.

“The Six O’Clock Show asking us on was a huge shock. Suddenly we were in a TV

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Asked for their current must-tries, Patrick shoots back, “How long have you got?

Russell’s a Clonakilty man, but I adore the Inch House Black Pudding – it’s so smooth.

Cheese-wise, Cashel Blue or Crozier Blue, preferably cut fresh from the wheel rather than pre-packed. The 15 Fields Cheddar made by Knockanore and aged by Sheridan’s is amazing, as is Durrus and the Toonsbridge Mozzarella – they basically assembled their own Italian buffalo herd so they could take on the Neapolitans! We’ve 30 or 40 gins at home at the moment, but our absolute favourite is Bertha’s Revenge from County Cork.”

Using whey alcohol from local dairy farmers

Food Champion

C HR ISTO P HER MO L LOY T H E L E M O N T R E E R E S TA U R A N T, L E T T E R K E N N Y, C O . D O N E G A L

Kwanghi Chan in the TV3 kitchen

– hence the name! – this small batch gin has made its way into many a hipster cocktail, but, in Go Rail’s book, is best sampled neat. The only rule when it comes to Irish gin is that there are no rules – as part of their ‘Ginteresting’ series, Glendalough have thrown locally harvested beech leaves into the copper pot while Drumshanbo Gunpowder Gin follows an old monastic recipe that calls for the adding of tealeaves.

Like the GastroGays, Roz Purcell started out with a food blog, naturalbornfeeder. com, which has lead to her penning a bestseller of the same name, and developing healthy food options for Greens & Co. “Our food culture is something people here should really cherish,” she asserts before picking out some of her personal favourites.

“McCarthy’s pub in my hometown of Clonmel is great,” Roz resumes. “They do really good pub grub. I love Caviston’s out in Glasthule. Fallon & Byrne in the centre of town is also really good. They’re probably my top two food shops. In terms of markets, I love the People’s Market in Dún Laoghaire.

They have lots of fruit, vegetables, natural yoghurt, different types of spice mixes – and you can get fish there. There’s also a really good farmers market in Clonmel where I pick up all my eggs, fish and breads.”

Supplying us with another shopping list is

Donal Skehan, the former boy-bander who’s become a TV regular at home and abroad and made it into supermarkets with his Skoff range of meat pies – having sampled ‘em all, we reckon the Prime Beef & Stout one is best. But, then again, we do love the Hearty Pulled Pork and Tender Chicken & Ham ones!

“Burren Smokehouse is fantastic – I love the hot smoked salmon, it’s one of my addictions,” Donal enthuses. “Knockdrinna Farmhouse Cheese I absolutely love, and Young Buck in the north do a stunning blue cheese. Highbank Orchards do an amazing apple syrup, which is great on pancakes, and Cockagee from the Cider Mill in Slane is a fantastic alternative to champagne and cava.”

Rachel Allen is eager to add another name to the Irish Cheese Roll of Honour.

“I’m totally in awe of Giana Ferguson, the wonderful lady in the most south-westerly tip of Ireland who’s behind Gubbeen Cheese,” she proffers. “Her drive and passion are inspirational. She has a book, Gubbeen: The Story Of A Working Farm And Its Foods, that you absolutely have to read.”

There’s more food for thought in this We Are The Champions! special as we bring you 15 Great Irish Things To Eat and wise fishy words from seafood evangelist and Food Champion Niall Sabongi…

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The Lemon Tree started back in 1999 and it’s near enough a family run business. I started working there as a kitchen porter at the age of 14 and became one of the partners about five years ago.

Since then, I’ve done everything I can to promote not just the unique qualities of the restaurant, but also the uniqueness of Donegal and the producers that we work with. I’d be out at local markets, out doing food demonstrations, going the length and breadth of the country every free day that I have to visit local producers and promote them if they’re doing good things. We’d also help put together the Letterkenny Street Food Festival at the end of July to showcase all that we have here in Donegal. Failte, I think, took note of that and took note of the fact that I was championing the restaurant and the county at the same time.

For example, we were one of the first restaurants to be using the likes of Haven Smokehouse turfsmoked salmon and we’ve tried to help them grow. We use mussels from Mulroy Bay, potatoes from a local man named Derek McClure. We got Ballyholey Farm on board with us a few years ago and now every January we’ll sit down with them and they’ll ask us what we want them to grow – that’s a local relationship that you just can’t buy anywhere else. It also means we can be as transparent as possible with our customers, so that people who eat at the restaurant know where the food is coming from.

We use everyday food that customers like, but make it as high-quality as possible. At the moment we have 23 Donegal producers throughout the menu. Every dish would have a Donegal element in it, and that’s important for us. We feel like, yes, we have the scenery here in this county, but we want to match that with the food. We want it so that people can go away saying: “We had a lovely time visiting the beaches, but we also had a lovely meal in this great place in Letterkenny.”

In terms of our menu, I’d recommend our Pressed Chicken Leg Terrine for a starter. For the main then, we do a fantastic Beef Check with Monkfish and Potato Terrine. For desert we change it quite frequently, but it’s worth trying the Ballyholey Carrot Cake. Then we have the mussels, which are so good that we normally just serve them on their own with an Irish cider and local leeks.

Niall Sabongi Falling in Love with Seafood

It is one of Ireland’s great natural resources. And yet, for a long time, we had lost our connection with the marvellous variety and wonderful culinary potential of seafood. All that is changing, as fish features more prominently on menus in great restaurants, and fish-only places spring up across the country.

Seafood evangelist and Food Champion NIALL SABONGI gives us the inside story on a burgeoning love affair…

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Photography: Miguel Ruiz

istorically Irish people ate a lot of seafood. But, for all sorts of reasons, that connection to the sea, and the wonderful riches it has to offer, faded away here.

We lost a huge amount of our knowledge about the sea, and about fish, after the famine, which had such a devastating effect on Irish people and their relationship with food. As a result, the range of fish you could buy here in the Sixties and the Seventies was very limited, with whiting

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and smoked cod and imported tinned salmon dominating.

I was born and raised in Dublin, in the restaurant industry. I’ve been a chef all my life so I was much more aware of food than most kids. But I worked abroad when I was younger, and so when I came back to Ireland 18 years ago, I was really peeved that I wasn’t able to get the seafood I was used to cooking on my travels all around the world.

Fresh Appetite It’s crazy when you think about it. When we go to Spain or Portugal, we’re all over sardines, sea bass, prawns and so on – so it’s mad that when we come home these options are either not available, or when they are it’s a big deal, too expensive and often just a bit stuffy.

Because I always loved fish, and wanted to

“Part of my mission is to take the ‘posh’ out of it for people who are into more casual dining.” cook really good fish, I started to source it myself. Bit by bit, what started as something I’d do for my own restaurants grew – and so, about five years ago, I decided to go completely self-sufficient. I started a company called Sustainable Seafood Ireland. The whole purpose was to get as close to the original source as I could. I want to be sure that I can stand over the quality of my seafood, knowing it’s sustainable and coming off really good boats.

As a result, all the cool cats in town, who are passionate about their food buy off us: I’m thinking about really great restaurants like Bastible, Clanbrassil House, Fish Shop, Airfield House, Glovers Alley, and so on. I don’t want to try to give a complete list, but the way in which this business has grown confirms that Ireland really is developing a fresh appetite for quality fish.

That’s something I am really thrilled about.

Casual Dining In terms of my own restaurants, I have three offerings at the moment. What we’re trying to do in all three is to bring a taste of the sea to the city.

There’s Klaw in Temple Bar. That’s been going for about three years. It fits about 12 people and has this immersive, informal crab shack vibe, where you’re literally in the middle of it all.

Then I have Klaw PoKé on Capel Street. Poké is a Hawaiian sashimi rice dish made with raw fish, and it’s super healthy. It’s recently become this huge international food trend, but I didn’t adapt it because I thought it was trendy. I just saw that it was a great vehicle to get more and more people eating seafood in a creative and innovative way.

Lastly, we have Klaw The Seafood Café which is my take on a more traditional approach to seafood. You’ve got fish and chips, po’ boys from Louisiana, lobsters, and whole grilled fish. It’s inspired by our Atlantic cousins and has Portuguese and Spanish mediterranean influences. They’re very different offerings – but all based around a super casual and relaxed vibe.

One of the issues we have to deal with – and that we are dealing with – is that seafood in Ireland had become this really posh affair. Oysters are such a great food, but they were always seen as the preserve of people with lots of money. So where seafood was available in restaurants, it usually came with crisp white linen tablecloths and massive wine lists. That’s great in its own way, of course, but part of my mission is to take the ‘posh’ out of it for people who are into more casual dining.

We want our customers to rock into our restaurant at happy hour, have a 1 oyster, and maybe a beer.

Sea in the City With that in mind, we teamed up with two guys based out in Finglas, called Hopfully Brewing, who helped us come up with our own signature beer. In so many ways, what we are doing is on the same wavelength as the guys who are behind the craft beer revolution – which is a philosophy based on using great Irish ingredients to produce wonderful local culinary

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THE IRISH FOOD REVOLUTION

Food Champion

C L A IR E DA LTO N, D U N G A R VA N B R E W I N G C O M PA N Y

experiences. And it is also about opening people up to new tastes and new food experiences.

Alongside the traditional staples, there will always be some unusual fish on our menu. It’s all about learning more and tasting more. It pushes everything on and it means that we aren’t eating the same three or four fish all the time.

In addition to the three restaurants, I have an idea that’s been brewing for a while called the Urban Monger, where I want to bring a fishmonger’s shop back into the city – but flip it on its head and make it a lot more immersive. I’m imagining the kind of

place you’d see on the continent, where you can walk in and grab live prawns and talk to the fishmonger in a really comfortable environment and they’ll even cook it on the spot.

We are an island nation. There is great fish available to us, if we know how and where to source it. Irish food has come on in the most extraordinary way over the past couple of decades – and that is a huge part of what makes this country a wonderful place to live in, and to visit.

Fish is becoming an ever more important part of that story. Long may it continue.

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The business launched in April 2010. We had been planning it for about 10 years. The four of us who started it – myself, my husband Tom, my brother Cormac and his wife Jen – are still here. Cormac was the home-brewer: the germ of the idea came from him.

When we started, the craft beer industry was new here. There were seven microbreweries in Ireland, The current figure is in the nineties.

Our first few years were about education.

Educating people to the idea of trying an alternative beer – to the various kinds of beer styles available. I trained as a beer sommelier. I got that qualification in the UK in 2014.

What makes us original is that we were the first brewery of our kind doing everything on-site: from grain-to-bottle. That would have differentiated us initially. Another thing we use is a bottle-conditioning process, quite a traditional method in which the beer undergoes a second fermentation process in the bottle. As a result, it is naturally carbonated.

It’s always just been ourselves, which we’re really proud of. We’ve been quite progressive in having events and working with other businesses. We’ve always been aligned with the independent, artisan food scene in Ireland.

The fact that they’ve brought a brewery into the Food Champions network is a clear acknowledgement that we are now looking at indigenous, artisan drinks products along with food, which is great.

We’ve campaigned with other microbreweries for the progression of the Craft Drinks Bill. As it stands, we can’t sell the product by the bottle or by the crate, aside from wholesale. We offer brewery tours. But allowing some sales would massively increase what we can do, justify wages and, hopefully, increase employment. It might also help tourism in some of the smaller regions where breweries are based.

In terms of beers, we’re working on a collaboration that we’re hoping to release shortly enough. It’s a “Greenway” beer. The Waterford cycling and walkway trail has been a massive success. One of the instigators of the Greenway is working with us on developing a beer to pay homage. It’s very exciting.

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CELEBRITY TABLE

Cassie's

Come Home

Over gourmet bites and first-class Japanese-inspired cocktails in Bonsai Bar, Cassie Stokes talks to Go Rail about being a TV presenter on both sides of the Atlantic, rubbing shoulders with Tom Hanks, her perfect day in Dublin, and why good service will win her over in any restaurant.

Interview: Peter McGoran Photography: Miguel Ruiz

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ituated just below Taste and above The Rustic Stone, in the heart of Dublin's bustling city centre, is Dylan McGrath's exciting Japanese-inspired food and drinks experience Bonsai Bar. Combining bespoke cocktails with the kind of bar bites that wouldn’t look out of place in a Michelinstar restaurant, it’s a stylish new addition to the evening-time socialising scene with endless combinations to explore.

Bonsai is also brilliantly committed to its Japanese theme, with an attention to detail that is second-to-none. Their ‘Oyuki cocktail’ (Beefeater gin infused with wild hibiscus & rose stirred with hibiscus syrup topped with prosecco), is inspired by a famous portrait of a geisha who died young, and comes complete with a blurred, ghostly image of the haunting geisha, which gradually becomes visible when you raise the cocktail glass to your lips.

Needless to say, Xposé presenter Cassie Stokes and I are beaming when we arrive at Bonsai (although I discover throughout our

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chat that this seems to be Cassie’s natural state). There’s a moment of uncertainty as we pore over both the bar bites and cocktail menus and we deliberate over what to get, (or what not to get - because we’re both decided foodies and we both mean business); thankfully though, the Bonsai staff are at hand to guide our suggestions, suggesting which cocktails and bites will pair, and even giving us the history of the cocktails – justifying every combination choice. This kind of quality service has already won Cassie over,

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There's a tsunami of perfectly crafted Japanese-inspired cocktails and delicious bar bites at Dylan McGrath's Bonsai

who stands by the rule that, when it comes to dining experiences, “All it takes is one person to make me come back time and time again.”

“I also like going places where the people are really friendly,” she says. “Where they look after you, remember you if you’ve been there before, and pay attention to you. That’s really important to me. It’s less about the food to be honest. I love good food, but for me, it’s so much about how you’re treated.”

Having built up an impressively diverse CV for herself, Cassie is also firmly of the belief that everybody should work in the hospitality industry at one stage to see how difficult it is from the other side.

“When I was working in Toronto, I started off in the hospitality industry and got to experience it at its best and worst, so I think I’ve found a new appreciation for that industry and for the experience of dining. I’m not a food snob, but I love going to places where the workers are friendly and go out their way for you.”

Cassie started her career at TV3, before taking a break to work in Canada (where she was born). While there, she ended up working as a co-host on Entertainment Tonight Canada.

Apparently, she’s always had a calling for TV. “I think so!” She laughs. “It kind of kept working out that way. Any time I went to do something else, I kept going back that way. I mean I’m always pushing the boundaries and trying out new things, but I do always gravitate towards TV. And I’m not complaining, it’s a lot of fun.”

As a committed foodie, Cassie is certainly not complaining when her work gives her the opportunity to explore places like Bonsai. This sets us up nicely for the first round of bar bites.

First up, Nashi Pear features pears pressed in ponzu and honey with avocado puree, umeboshi, radish and sesame; Akame Tuna has sliced yellow fin tuna on a kimchi croquette with burnt cabbage and cured egg yolk; and

“I love good food, but for me, it’s so much about how you’re treated.” the Salmon Sashimi is on nori tempura with bonito, avocado puree and radish. Cocktailwise, we enjoy Momotaro, with Absolut pear vodka with pear purée, freshly squeezed lemon, homemade wasabi syrup, finished with a splash of soda water, peach bitters and grapefruit oils; my personal favourite, the Three Beauties, with Glenfiddich 12, kummell, oleo-saccharum, fresh lime, lychee purée & egg white; and Cassie’s personal favourite, Oda, a Mezcalbased cocktail with freshly squeezed lime juice, summer berry conserve, agave, a touch of pimento liqueur & big peat scotch. With locations like this, it’s enough to make Cassie

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happy that she made her triumphant return to Dublin…

“If someone had said to me three years ago that I’d be living in Dublin, I would’ve told them there was no chance,” she says. “Because at that time, I wasn’t ready to be back. I went to London briefly because I wanted to be closer to home, then I got offered this job and it gave me an excuse to go home. Now though, I’m definitely not opposed to living here. So for the foreseeable future, I’ll be in Dublin I think.”

Cassie got the call-up to audition for TV3’s Xposé in 2016. She’s found herself work as both a presenter and a producer for the show, which was a dream come true.

“I love the buzz of not knowing where my week’s going to take me. You get to meet some amazing people – and I’m more than happy to spend my life talking to people.

There’s real freedom to be creative and come up with ideas too. I’m not just a presenter, I’m a producer as well, so if I have an idea and I wanted to see it through, I could do that. If it was a huge corporation I might not have that freedom, but with TV3 I do. It’s nice to be able to have ideas, work with them, and run with them yourself.”

Aside from being able to pursue her own ideas, the job has also allowed Cassie to cosy up to some of Hollywood’s elite. She bonded strongly with Jake Gyllenhaal over their mutual love for tattoos, but Tom Hanks takes the mantle for her favourite ever celebrity interview.

“Coolest person in the world!” she insists. “I

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Bonsai's talented chefs and mixologists come up with stunning presentation; Cassie enjoying the salmon sashimi

was at a red carpet event in London, for his film A Hologram For The King, and he must’ve been in a great mood, because when I asked him ‘Here c’mere Tom, tell me your Ireland story,’ he gave me everything. He started chatting about this Irish guy who told him to go into acting, did this great impression of him and everything, and it was the most brilliant thing to hear.”

Aside from taking Xposé to new and exciting places, Cassie has also been there to chart TV3’s remarkable progress as a TV channel. She was excited when they announced their recent merger with Virgin Media.

“Considering TV3 only started about 20 years ago, it’s progressed so much and has given RTÉ a run for its money. I think that’s a huge testament to the people who have worked there. I worked there when I was young, and I’ve been there for about 12 years, so to see the developments is amazing. It’s moving forward.

It’s always moving forward. They’ve got a new channel for sports. They’ve always got amazing shows, and – not forgetting – they’ve got Ireland’s Got Talent. Who could want more?

Cassie’s career so far has been an example of going out on her own and establishing her own success, but she’s the first to assert that behind every great woman…is six or seven others.

“In terms of people who’ve really inspired me and been there for me, Cheryl Hickey on Entertainment Tonight in Canada was huge. She worked her way up from being a camerawoman to one of the biggest presenters in the country

and that’s hugely inspiring. Glenda Gilson as well, I have to say, has had my back since I started. We started talking on my second week in TV3 and she’s really been there for me ever since. She’s one of the soundest people in the whole world. It’s funny because one of the first questions people always ask me is ‘Is Glenda Gilson nice in real life?’ And I can reply 100% that she is one of the nicest people I have the

“People-watching is one of my favourite things to do in Dublin” pleasure of knowing. If you know her – you’re a very lucky person. Then apart from that, my mum, my granny, all the women in my family.

They’re all inspirations, they all taught me how to be strong. Some I admire for their business sense and for what they’ve done with their careers, some I just admire for showing me how to enjoy life.”

As we talk, more bar bites and cocktails arrive, each one as deliciously unique as it is perfectly Instagrammable (Cassie’s story attests to this fact). By the time our plates are finished, we’re plotting which ones to try when we next return.

Cassie’s already tipped it as a new favourite

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spot in the city. But how would she spend her perfect day in Dublin?

“For starters, sitting and people watching outside Grogan’s,” she says. “People-watching is one of my favourite things to do in Dublin.

Then probably Grogan’s to Hogan’s. Then when the sun’s shining in, Berlin on Dame Street is a great place to be. They play a lot of chilled, melodic house music, which I love, it’s difficult to beat. Then sometimes I’d go to the Bernard Shaw for a pizza, or Fade Street Social. There are so many great pockets of Dublin to visit when the sun is shining.”

Who could argue with that? And with Bonsai Bar, we’ve both discovered a new, exquisite food and drinks experience to add to the list.

Bonsai Bar 17 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 526 7701 Thebonsaibar.com

The Damage Bonsai’s Japanese-inspired cocktails are priced between €11-€17 Bonsai’s light bites are priced between €4.50-€9.

Great Irish Things to Eat

Go Rail’s resident foodie, Stuart Clark, brings you the ultimate list of homegrown scoffables!

Rebel Chili Barrel Aged Hot Sauce Aged for 62 days in barrels that previously contained fine Irish whiskey, this take no prisoners condiment has won its fiery Cork creator, Paul Moore, a mantelpiece full of awards. rebelchilli.com

Mideast Mezze Za’atar Flatbreads

Chia Bia Seeds & Bars

Made with much love in Waterford by Dviv Nusery and Nicola Crowley, these Israeli snacks are especially delicious when smothered in hummus and drizzled with tahini and fresh lemon. mideastmezze.com

Founded in 2009 and based in Tramore, Co. Waterford, Chia Bia was the first company to bring chia seeds to Europe. Founder Barrie discovered the power of chia seeds when he suffered a back injury while on holiday in America. The seeds were recommended to him as they were known for their anti-inflammatory properties and Barrie experienced first-hand the health benefits of chia. From there Chia Bia was born and the product range is now available in all leading retailers nationwide.

This tiny seed is high is Omega 3, Fibre and Protein and can make a big impact on your health! chiabia.com

Keogh’s Crisps The Keogh family believe that good things come from Mother Nature and that’s why they’ve been working the land growing delicious potatoes in North Co. Dublin for over 200 years.

They hand cook Ireland’s finest crisps in small batches on their farm, using flavours carefully selected from the finest artisan Irish food producers.

From Crop to Crisp, grown and cooked with love in Ireland. keoghs.ie

Flavour Safari Spicy Olive & Tomato Sauce One of the stars of last year’s Savour Kilkenny foodfest, Michael Onalimi’s Nigerian-inspired creations will perk even the most jaded of tastebuds up. flavoursafari.com

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Le Skinny Chef Wild Garlic Pesto While the Sun-Dried Red Tomato and Fresh Basil varieties are also seriously yum, this is the pick of the spreadable cheese pestos created by Aymar Gourdet, a Frenchman happily exiled in Portlaoise. leskinnychef.com

Cully & Sully 12-Hour Beef & Vegetable Knockdrinna Goat’s Brie How you enjoy this must-try from Helen Finnegan and the Knockdrinna Farmhouse Cheese Co. is up to you, but we love it melted with ham and tomato in a toastie. knockdrina.com

Scratch My Pork Salt + Vinegar We’re not condoning the “Oooooo, matron!” brand name but, boy, do these artisan scratchings from down Cork way hit the pub snack spot! New Zealander Matt Brownie is the man to thank/blame. thenononsensefoodco.com

Ireland’s Queen of Nutrition, Roz Purcell, has given this new, healthy option from the master Cork soupmakers an enthusiastic ‘thumbs up’, and we’re not going to disagree with her! cullyandsully.com

Chan Chan Hong Kong Black Garlic street sauce Missing the tastes of his native Hong Kong, Donegal resident Kwanghi Chan – you’ve probably seen him cooking up a storm on TV3’s The Six O’Clock Show – created this magical condiment, which is as fab in Irish Stews as it is in Asian stir-fries. chanchan.ie

Glorious Sushi Smoked Salmon Paté Having wowed us with his supermarket range of handmade Irish sushi, Waterford resident Tetyana Zhemerdyey scores another bullseye with this full flavoured sandwich filler.

Derry Clarke Apple & Honey White Pudding With apologies to Clonakilty, Kelly’s, Loughnane’s, FX Buckley and Inch House, all of whom we love dearly, this is the pud we reach for when making the breakfast of champions. It’s also damn good crumbled into stews. lecrivain.com

Popsy Daisy Whisky Salted Caramel A generous glug of Teeling’s goes into this seriously addictive gourmet ‘corn, which once popped can definitely not be stopped! popsydaisy.ie

Barry Johns Chocolate & Honeycomb Sausages No, that’s not a misprint! The Crowe family from Cavan town have made foodie headlines all over the world with this unorthodox, but delicious take on the traditional Irish banger. @barryjohnsbutchers

The Happy Pear Chili No Carne The pick of a very fine bunch of ready meals – the Veggie Korma and Chickpea Curry have cost our local Indian takeaway a small fortune – from Greystones’ virtuous Flynn twins. thehappypear.ie

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DESTINATION

Oh,Canada! r, inset: Fairmont

ks of the Ottawa Rive

Top: The verdant ban Château Laurier

Whether it’s a wilderness walk under a canopy of sugar maples or a historical tour of decadent buildings, Ottawa is sure to impress any sight seeker. By Max Freebern

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ttawa lies along the beautiful banks of the Ottawa River, in the east portion of South Ontario, and is the charming capital city of Canada. The city is well-known for its collection of cultural institutions, national museums and stunning urban architecture.

This Canadian jewel offers much more than maple syrup and Mounties. The city serves as both a cultural and political hub for all of Canada, with trains to other happening cities like Montreal and Toronto. Whether you wish

to explore the historical city sights or find a trek through dense forests, Ottawa serves as a one-stop shop for all Ontario has to offer. The primary languages in Ottawa are English and French. The best time to go is in early autumn, when the weather is mild (13-20 degrees), waves of tourists and school children have subsided and flights are at their lowest.

Sadly, a cross-continental crusade takes a good deal of time and money: both of which will be spent on this excursion. The Ottawa Macdonald-Cartier International Airport is a short 20 minute drive from downtown Ottawa.

The airport boasts its reputation for providing a safe, clean and modern travel experience for those passing through its small terminal.

Sadly, there are no direct flights available from anywhere in Ireland, and the only one-stop flights leave Dublin, Cork, Shannon. Depending on your comfort in the confines of an airplane, travel time varies from 12 to 24 hours. As the saying goes: time is money and an one-stop flight will cost you the double price of a twostop trip. The cheapest flights are offered by Westjet and United Airlines.

If you want to keep close to the action downtown, the Brookstreet Hotel (525 Legget Dr, Kanata, ON K2K 2W2, Canada+1 613271-1800) is a reasonably priced, four-star accommodation. The hotel features an 18 hole golf course, an indoor and outdoor pool and live jazz music all week. They offer a fair selection of modernly furnished rooms, but the real beauty comes from the gorgeous

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views of Ottawa West and the lush Gatineau Valley. Downtown Ottawa offers the widest selection of shopping and exploration making it an excellent location for your stay.

For the thrifty travelers with an adventurous side, the Ottawa Jail Hostel (75 Nicholas St, Ottawa, ON K1N 7B9, Canada +1 613-2352595) is just a short walk from Parliament Hill and the surrounding attractions. Easily considered the most welcoming jail in Ottawa, this hostel provides renovated historic prison cells for a fraction of price of a hotel.

Additionally it offers a bar, backyard patio, a grim tour of the death-row inmates’ floor and complimentary breakfast (much tastier than the meals of the previous tenants).

Ottawa is a fairly tight-knit city, making its streets relatively easy to navigate. While there are a number of buses and taxis available for weary travelers, one could easily keep their cash and walk to their destinations. Avoid renting a car as the narrow one way streets of the bustling downtown area can be difficult to maneuver.

Most importantly, you’ll need to know where to find good drinks. After all, the stress of travel can take a toll. Craft beer lovers will enjoy the blossoming community of local breweries and delicious drafts emerging throughout the city. Brew Donkey Tours offer tasting trips to numerous breweries throughout the city and a light meal to keep you conscious. The Château Lafayette (Château Lafayette, 42 York Street, Ottawa, ON, Canada, +1 613 241 4747), nicknamed

DESTINATION

“Ottawa is renowned for its French cuisine, making it the most popular location for food lovers in Ontario.”

The Laff, is the oldest tavern in Ottawa, predating the establishment of the city itself. Historical antiques decorate the walls, depicting the city’s vibrant history. Its relaxed atmosphere is perfect to enjoy a nice meal with a pint and some live entertainment. Be wary, you recently-turned-legal drinkers, Ottawa’s drinking age is 19, so you may be resigned to the cafes.

Looking for sustenance? Ottawa is renowned for its French cuisine, making it the most popular location for food lovers in Ontario. Restaurants work with over 1,300 food producers within the city limits to provide as much locally sourced food as possible. In the historic Sandy Hill neighborhood of downtown Ottawa, Signatures (453 Laurier Ave E, Ottawa, ON K1N 6R4, Canada +1 613-236-2499) restaurant shares the campus of the famous Le Cordon Bleu Ottawa Culinary Arts Institute, making it the ideal French cuisine destination.

The elegant mansion is adorned with crystal chandeliers and spiral staircases which add to the restaurant’s ambience.

Making a reservation is highly recommended. However if French food isn’t your favorite you can find a mix of Italian, Chinese and seafood meals with a slew of casual dining options as well.

Among the numerous sights of the city, a few come to mind immediately. Sitting atop a wreath of trees is Parliament Hill, home to the Parliament of Canada. It is easily one of the most breathtaking sights in Ottawa and a must-see destination for visitors. Resembling a monstrous gothic castle, the building shimmers with golden light against the river at night. Daily free walking tours feature an unparalleled view from the Peace Tower, numerous statues of famous Canadians and luscious gardens that scatter the parliament grounds. If you’re lucky enough to be there on July 1, you can share in a large Canada Day celebration which often takes place on-site.

If you peer from the top of the Peace Tower, you may be able to distinguish your next venture: the Ottawa Art Gallery.

This art gallery hosts over 1,020 pieces of Canadian artwork in an effort to support the local art community. Admission is always free so make sure to enjoy the large indoor galleries and two outdoor rooftop galleries that provide another gorgeous vantage point.

Bored of the history lessons yet? Cool off with an urban rafting tour that will surely delight tourists of all ages. As you float along the river you will be treated to frequent historical facts, cliff jumping and some lazy body surfing in the calmer rapids. The excursion departs from Britannia Beach and washes you ashore the pier in downtown Ottawa roughly three hours later.

Venturing past the city limits, Camp Fortune offers a wonderful way to explore the splendor of the vast Canadian wilderness. I’d recommend the Explorer Park which features the longest ziplines of the aerial adventures. Creep across zigzag bridges, crawl through barrels and climb ladders up towering trees that test your balance and bravery. The park also features the longest skiing season in the region with plenty of slopes and parks for all skill levels in the winter.

From top: Notre-Dame Cathedral, Maman by Louise Bourgeois at Ottawa Art Gallery, Parliament Hill

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FASHION

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FASHION 1 2

Some

Neck!

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It may have fallen foul of the authorities at Royal Ascot – but we’re in love with the summer-friendly Bardot neckline.

By Roe McDermott

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ver in the UK, posh fashionistas are up in arms at new rules created by Royal Ascot. Though they added jumpsuits to their list of acceptable attire last year, the authorities have caused controversy in 2018 by banning a classic neckline.

Bardot necks – originally named after actress Brigitte Bardot, who popularised the off-shoulder look in Cannes circa 1953 – have been removed from the event’s annual Style Guide, as the Royal Ascot fashion police have declared the neckline “a fashion grey-area”. While they may feel unsure, we’re certain: the Bardot trend is still going strong. In fact, it’s now all the more desirable for its new anti-establishment edge. Indeed, we’re going to embrace our inner rebels and – in addition to Bardot styles – go big on all unique necklines and off-the-shoulder looks.

Chloe’s latest collection featured high-necked dresses with intricate slits and cut-outs around the shoulder, while Dior went for a more bohemian look, combining ruffled Bardot necklines with delicate, multi-coloured floral patterns, perfect for summer.

Prada has been embracing the sleeveless, pussybow neckline, often pairing sheer, bow-bedazzled blouses under dramatic, galaxy-inspired suits. Louis Vuitton also embraced dramatic bow blouses, with puffed sleeves for a style we can only describe as pirate-chic. Mario Dice’s latest collection was more casual, featuring ever-so-fresh white jumpsuits with elaborate, colour-blocked necklines with interweaving straps and off-the-shoulder sleeves.

Ever chic, Carolina Herrera went for clean and classic one-shoulder gowns and tops with floral detailing.

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1. Michelle Keegan Printed Peplum Dress ¤110, Littlewoods 2. Michelle Keegan Bardot Blazer Dress ¤90, Littlewoods 3. V by Very - Bardot Scuba Bodycon Dress ¤48, Littlewoods 4. Michelle Keegan Cotton Poplin Bow Front Bardot Blouse ¤45, Littlewoods 5. Bardot print top, Coming soon to Lipsy

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FASHION

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FASHION 6

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“To add some edge, layer a sheer long-sleeved top underneath for a softer take on fishnet sleeves.”

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his season, there are plenty of ways to wear interesting necklines. Make your workwear more interesting with coldshoulder trenches and tuxedo jackets, which will give you structure and effortless chicness while also being impossibly on-trend. Cold-shoulder pussy-bow blouses are also perfect for injecting some interest in your everyday workwear, and can be layered under jackets if you want more coverage during the day.

For more casual wear, re-watch Flashdance and embrace slouchy jumpers that fall off your shoulders – a look that can easily be dressed up with some metallic or patterned trousers and high heels. Bardot tops can also be layered over t-shirts for a classic ’90s look, while oneshoulder tops look chic and glamourous on their own, and add some asymmetrical interest when worn under jackets. Gathered Bardot tops and off-the-shoulder tops scream boho chic when paired with maxi skirts, but also look fresh and feminine when paired with jeans. To add some edge, layer a sheer long-sleeved top underneath for a softer take on fishnet sleeves.

Strappy details and off-centre ruffles are also huge this season, adding some uniqueness to flowy spring ensembles. Ruffled details or puffed sleeves, especially when just on one shoulder, add interest to classic cocktail dresses and cami tops while still being ready to wear and easily incorporated into your wardrobe.

Royal Ascot can keep their rules. We’ll keep our rebellious necklines – and look damn good doing it.

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6. V By Very Choker One Shoulder Top ¤38, Littlewoods 7. Bardot Ruffle Sleeve Crop Top ¤45.00, Littlewoods 8. Michelle Keegan Striped Exaggerated Sleeve Dress ¤110, Littlewoods 9. Michelle Keegan Printed Tiered Halter Blouse ¤52, Littlewoods 10. White Colour Block Off The Shoulder Shirt, Coming soon to Pretty Little Thing

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GO

REVIEW Albums. Movies. Books

FLORENCE AND THE MACHINE

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GOLISTEN.

GOWATCH.

GOREAD.

On our desks and in our ears are the latest releases from indie megastars Florence and the Machine, Downpatrick’s finest Ash and Damon Albarn’s legendary cartoon troupe, Gorillaz

Fed up of endless scrolling? We pick out the best streaming options for comfortable couch consumption this summer, including girl-power Ghostbusters and moody teen drama The Perks Of Being A Wallflower

In our suitcases for poolside reading this summer include Rebecca O’Connor’s smalltown drama He Is Mine and I Have No Other, and Lawrence Wright’s examination of his home state, God Save Texas

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LISTEN

GOLISTEN. T H E

A U D A C I T Y

O F

H O P E

The Machine takes a detour as Florence’s return eschews the megahits

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irst up in the newly-released roundup is Florence and the Machine’s High As Hope. Blessed with a miraculous voice and a mesmerizing stage presence, this Machine has been unstoppable since she burst onto the scene in 2008 and her widescreen, stadium-rattling music has spawned a sub genre of its very own.

With all that in mind, High as Hope comes as somewhat of a surprise. Described as “less Florence-y” by the songsmith herself, this album is Florence’s most grounded work to date and is a stripped back (by her standards!), wistful and world weary affair.

For much of the record Florence climbs inside a confessional booth and opens up about her drug abuse (‘South London Forever’), an eating disorder she had in her teens (‘Hunger’) and her constant worry of disappointing her mother (‘Grace’), making for an illuminating listen.

Still, it’s hard to escape the feeling that if there was less soul baring and more stadium-sized bangers then High As Hope would be a better record. That’s not to say it’s a bad album, it’s just that the intimate, clutter free arrangements and gloom tinged lyrics can get a little claustrophobic at times (‘Sky Full Of Song’). The nostalgic, “back in my day….” vibe throughout also feels a little odd, considering she’s still only 31 years of age.

When she gets the formula right though, the Londoner does land some knock-out blows. Slow burning opener ‘June’ sees that spectacular voice which made her a household name soar, while ‘Big God’ is almost Bad

Seeds-esque in its composition and features some wonderfully weird vocal rumblings and strong brass. Frustrating and fantastic in equal measure, High As Hope marks an interesting detour for Florence + The Machine, but we reckon her record label will be hoping she gets this current sound out of her system and goes back to the big booming ways of old ASAP. Next up we go to Downpatrick act Ash for their seventh album release in a quarter century career. With Ash being one of the most reliable bands around for producing pleasant and hooky, if unchallenging, pop punk, Islands ticks all the required boxes.

Opening ‘True Story’, a song pretty much definitive of the ensuing album’s style, is a straightforward three chord singalong summer breeze of a track. Self-produced by frontman Tim Wheeler, the engineering of the album is predominantly modelled on previous format: chugging guitar, driving basslines, steady rhythms, and infectious melodies. Occasional diversions from formula appear midway in the form of ‘Confessions in the Pool’, with its sparkly, polyphonic synthesiser flourishes and Rick McMurray’s disco beat, but fear not, as nary a few bars go by before the power chords return.

‘All That I have Left’ slows the tempo slightly for some further catchy keyboard cruising.

Wheeler whips out his sweetest croons on ballad ‘Don’t Need Your Love’, which is a breezy, romantic, 60s-sounding number despite a lyric that would seem to the contrary. Single ‘Buzzkill’ is typical of the album’s format, although laced

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with somewhat more profanity than the rest.

There isn’t much in the way of darker musical moods with the exception of ‘It’s a Trap’, which is a brief dalliance with variation of tone. Final song ‘Incoming Waves’ is a melancholic number where a slow start erupts into an explosive second half that breeds hope.

For better or worse, Ash still sound like Ash on Islands, and that will keep a lot of people happy.

Last but by no means least comes the latest Gorillaz offering, the Now Now. No sooner had Gorillaz returned with last year’s excellent Humanz, than Damon Albarn was commencing work on its follow-up.

Completed in a shorter time-frame than most Gorillaz records, the album doesn’t feature the usual sprawling cast of collaborators, with Albarn handling the vocals on the majority of the tracks. Nonetheless, there are two fine contributions from George Benson on ‘Humility’ and Snoop Dogg and Jamie Principle on ‘Hollywood’; the former is an infectious slice of sunny pop, while the latter is brilliantly moody electro-funk effort.

Elsewhere, there are seductive hip hop grooves courtesy of ‘Kansas’ and ‘Sorcererz’, while ‘Idaho’ and ‘Souk Eye’ are vintage slices of dream pop. ‘Tranz’ and ‘Lake Zurich’ give us synthesised notes, the latter being lyric-less with a brief and undistracting voice-over midway through the track. Albarn gives us moody, Bowiesque vocals over dreamy bursts of electro pop on ‘Magic City’.

Now on the go for 20 years, Gorillaz remain one of the most cutting edge pop acts around.

WATCH

GOWATCH. B A C K

O F

T H E

N E T !

Don’t fancy any of the new cinema releases or just like watching films from the comfort of your own home, PJs on & fridge full of snacks within walking distance? Don’t blame you.

Luckily, there’s a great range of comedies, coming-of-age films and quirky dramedies ready to keep you entertained online.

and heartwrenchingly relatable, it’s one for parents and teens to watch together, and understand each other better.

THE PERKS OF BEING A WALLFLOWER School is hard for many teenagers struggling to figure out who they are, but Charlie (Logan Lerman) has it tougher than most. Aside from the usual unspoken divisions between the various cliques that roam the halls, Charlie has to do it all without his best friend, who committed suicide without leaving a note. This has contributed to some bona fide and serious mental health The Perks Of Being A Wallflower issues that he is still working through, but THE EDGE OF SEVENTEEN he enters his new school with a slight bit of Hailee Steinfeld stars in this perceptive, witty and optimism. His English teacher (Paul Rudd) is original examination of teen angst and low selfencouraging his love of writing and books, and esteem. Steinfeld gives a piercingly intelligent Charlie comes into the orbit of two seniors who and winning performance as Nadine, who just take him under their wing, the lovely Sam (Emma never feels like she fits – a fact exacerbated by Watson) and eccentric, bighearted Patrick (Ezra the effortless cool of her older brother (Blake Miller.) “Welcome to the island of misfit toys,” Jenner.) When her best friend and brother start Sam says to Charlie, and the description is dating, she feels even more isolated – and in accurate, as each character has their own unique that isolation, she taps into the pain of losing struggles and challenges to overcome – but at her father a few years previously. Nadine, even least they have each other to lean on. A really through her struggles, is whipsmart and funny, beautiful, intelligent coming-of-age story that and her banter-filled relationship with her respects the complexity of teenagers’ lives, it’s a wisecracking and secretly wise English teacher really remarkable, warm and thought-provoking (Woody Harrelson) is evocative of Good Will film, with truly fantastic performances from the Hunting meets Mean Girls. There’s angst and young leads. embarrassment and plenty of laughs as Nadine MAGGIE’S PLAN stumbles through going to parties, going on Director Rebecca Miller specializes in unique dates and dealing with her high-strung mother. and offbeat romantic dramas that manage to But writer-director Kelly Fremon Craig taps feel both playful yet lived-in and emotionally into something deeper than this traditional embodied. Starring Greta Gerwig – now the teen movie fare too; the line between teenage poster child for quirky, lost millennial types self-criticism and deep depression, and how - as Maggie, a woman who is both charming tricky it is for young people to express the and controlling, Miller’s comedy of manners difference – and be believed. Funny, moving

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and errors sees Maggie become determined to have a child - but she doesn’t feel ready to have a committed relationship. Her narcissism is profound and unapologetic; “I just want to live in a bubble,” she muses. But her bubble soon becomes a rainbow constellation as it collides with that of genetically desirable hipster Guy (Travis Fimmel), unhappily married fictoanthropologist John (Ethan Hawke) and his wife Georgette - a Danish whirlwind of chilly, erudite rage and condescension, played with spiky yet vulnerable perfection by Julianne Moore. Miller’s strength lies in using themes of control, desire and error to demonstrate how even modest lives can become labyrinthine. The ways by which she utilises her verbal and visual wit are as unexpected as the outcome of all the characters’ plans and manipulations, and she upends the reverence with which they approach culture as a commodity, knowing that it can be playful, powerful and profound all at once.

GHOSTBUSTERS As soon as Paul Feig announced his plan to direct an all-female reimagining of Ghostbusters, the world as we know it ended. At least, that’s what enraged fanboys across the world implied by their unparalleled rage that the beloved 1984 comedy was to be remade. Due to the furore - including unfairly having the most down-voted trailer in Youtube history Feig’s Ghostbusters would have to be perfect to prove the haters wrong. It’s not, but it’s still a damn entertaining romp with originality, selfawareness and zingers to spare. SNL veterans and comic geniuses Melissa McCarthy, Kristen Wiig, Leslie Jones and the consistently scenestealing but slightly underused Kate McKinnon star as the eponymous paranormal experts, amateurs and exorcists, tasked with saving the world from a spectral invasion – despite a city full of people doubting their abilities. The actresses each prove hilarious in their own right and enjoy an irresistibly chemistry as they struggle to master their ghostbusting technology.

The ghosts have an old-school Halloweenish charm, and McKinnon gets to be delightfully weird as well as landing the best moment of the film, kicking ass just as Ray Parker’s classic theme song blasts. This isn’t the only throwback, as cameos galore prove that the original actors are in full support of the franchise’s resurrection.

READ

GOREAD. L E T T E R S

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I N T E N T

The debut novels from two of Ireland’s finest emerging writers – Helen Cullen and Rebecca O’Connor – are your essential summer reads, while Lawrence Wright’s non-fiction book is a thought-provoking glimpse at global politics in turmoil.

Helen Cullen

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irst up on our summertime reading list, Helen Cullen’s debut novel The Lost Letters of William Woolf tells the story of ‘Dead Letters Detective’ William Woolf, a middle-aged Royal Mail employee who sifts through undeliverable post in East London. William unearths a series of letters from a young Irish woman – addressed simply to ‘My Great Love’. The discovery sends him on a mission to find this potential soulmate, while also forcing him to confront the truth about his unfulfilled dreams and stagnating marriage.

Stated like that, the premise of the story might seem a little quaint. However, Lost Letters quickly develops into a moving story that deals expertly with themes of miscommunication, words unspoken and the other rocks on which long-term relationships can so often founder, if not recognised and addressed. It all makes for a hugely rewarding and bracing finale. Put this on your summer reading list. The Lost Letters of William Woolf is a very fine debut indeed.

Sticking with the trend of female Irish

Lawrence Wright novelists and their magnificent debuts, He Is Mine And I Have No Other, Rebecca O’Connor’s first novel, is claustrophobic – in all the right ways. Set in the 1990s in a small Irish town, the novel centres on 15-year old Lani Devine. Lani has fallen irrevocably in love with Leon Brady, a teenage boy who visits the graveyard next to her house almost daily.

Leon has a tragic past, as does the town.

The local orphanage burned down, resulting in the deaths of 35 young girls. O’Connor has very skilfully captured the dense mental landscape of female adolescence, as well as the narrow confines of small-town thinking.

Ostensibly a coming-of-age novel, He Is Mine… is also an exploration of the myriad different ways Irish girls and women have been made to suffer at the hands of individuals and institutions.

Written with verve and flair, the novel is impressively atmospheric and provides some real character insights.

This is a beautiful, heartbreaking and assured debut.

Finally, another note entirely, to Lawrence

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Wright’s God Save Texas. Best known for his masterpiece The Looming Tower – which explored the US security services’ failure to stop 9/11 and the history of Al Qaeda – in his latest book, New Yorker writer Lawrence Wright turns his attention to the complexities of his home state.

Though acknowledging Texas’ multiculturalism and the vibrant arts scene in city’s like Austin, he doesn’t pull any punches in criticising the poisonous influence the state’s conservative movement has had on national political discourse. Furthermore, the climate change deniers in their ranks have possibly left Texas wide open to a catastrophic weather event, which had an ominous glimpse of last summer due to torrential rainfall.

Wright does point out that there is hope for the progressive agenda in that, were the State to turn Democratic (requiring a mere 10% turnaround from the 2016 election), the party would have a lock on the Presidency for the foreseeable future – one of many fascinating points in this brilliantly insightful read.

GOWIN. GO RAIL COMPETITION

WIN A GREAT MEAL FOR TWO AT SALAMANCA TREAT YOURSELF AND YOUR LOVED ONE TO A TRULY DELICIOUS MEAL

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ALAMANCA was founded in 2002 as one of Dublin’s first Tapas bars, and still remains top of the list for Spanish Tapas dishes in the city. Their quality Tapas and good Spanish wines are carefully chosen with the aim to whisk you from the mundane to the Mediterranean in a prime city centre location.

Having won best Mediterranean establishment 2016 and 2017 at Food Awards Ireland, Best Tapas Restaurant for Good Eating Guide 2018 and Best Tapas Bar & Restaurant 2018 at Irish Enterprise awards by EU magazine, Salamanca has gone from strength to strength and this year celebrates 15 years as one of the top Tapas bars in Ireland. The large dining room consisting of French-style chairs, red velvet couches in the back, and cream leather Spanish-style chairs – along with a mix of flamenco and salsa tunes – combine to create a “Taste of Spain” in Dublin.

Sumptuous dishes such as wild boar chorizo and secreto from Spain ensure Salamanca stays well ahead of the competition.

Salamanca, 1 Andrew Street, Dublin 2. (01) 677 4799

To enter, simply email your answers gorail@hotpress.ie. Please include your full contact details, and be sure to let us know on which train route, or at which station, you picked up your copy of Go Rail.

THE QUESTIONS: 1. Who is the Caped Crusader’s enemy in The Lego Batman Movie?

- Lex Luthor - The Joker - Magneto

2. Una Healy was a member of which girl group?

3. Connacht won which rugby competition in 2016?

- Girls Aloud - Sugababes - The Saturdays

- Guinness PRO12 - Champions Cup - Six Nations

Terms & Conditions: The prizes are valid until the 23rd of December 2018, subject to availability and not applicable to bank holidays, July or August. No cash alternatives will be offered. Entrants must be aged 18+. Go Rail may contact competition entrants with details of future special offers. Your details won’t be passed on to any third party. Please specify in your email if you would like to opt out of this.

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We are a nation of storytellers and our cultural heritage is a deep well of inspiration. This National Heritage Week, uncover the drama of the Irish landscape, the narratives of our national monuments and the traditions of your own place.

Heritage Week 2018 is a highlight of the European Year of Cultural Heritage, so get involved, share a story and explore the heritage links with our European neighbours.

1850 200 878

www.heritageweek.ie

European Heritage Days JournĂŠes europĂŠennes du patrimoine

National Tourism Development Authority