Epicure Vietnam Issue 02

DECEMBER 2020 epicurevietnam.com

THE REVERIE SAIGON

A wish list favorite

JACK LEE

BLACK VINEGAR

Return of a star

Charmingly Cantonese

A

S parkles

CHRISTMAS THAT

PUBLISHER 'S NOTE

Challenging Celebrations

T

his past year was certainly like nothing we ever saw before, at least in our lifetime. The only thing left for us to do now is to say goodbye and good riddance, while hoping for better times ahead.

In Vietnam, we were more lucky than many other countries, where the lock-downs and social distancing disrupted life and business, but especially the hospitality and travel industries.

To help mitigate the impact on all of us, Vietnam's leading restaurants, hotels and resorts are offering a veritable buffet of attractive festive packages. Staycations, culinary experiences, discounts, and promotions, all aim at attracting local residents to get a feel and taste of luxury – and at affordable prices.

The legendary The Reverie Saigon, for example, embraces the festive season with staycation offers, luxury experiences and rare delights. Enjoy six-star accommodations, festive afternoon teas, a personalised Christmas tree, special night time treats from Santa, and free use of the spa facilities at The Reverie Saigon, for a perfect ending to a difficult year.

Or experience a close Christmas encounter with Santa, and a “Magic At The Park” show at Park Hyatt Saigon, definitely something not to miss. The show charms visitors with child-like dreams, a funfair, and delightful food choices, brought to you by world-renowned magician Stefan Leyshon. Experience his magic this holiday with your loved ones, during a joyful weekend afternoon filled with magnificent treats. No doubt, it’s one of the best ways to celebrate the most magical time of the year.

Let’s together celebrate this festive season and the coming year with as much cheer and enjoyment of life as we can. Let your culinary celebration begin now, and indulge yourself and your family by feasting on traditional roast turkey, authentic French oysters, tantalizing roasts, hearty premium cuts and a bevy of festive goodies.

Count-down this year with Epicure Vietnam to forget, with a smile and hope for a better year ahead for all of us.

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year 2021 Jade Huynh Publisher

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VOLUME 02 / AUTHORS

THANH NIEN PUBLISHING HOUSE HO CHI MINH CITY BRANCH

64 Ba Trieu Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam 145 Pasteur Street, Ward 6, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

DIRECTOR & EDITOR IN CHIEF

Le Thanh Ha

PUBLISHER

Jade Huynh

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR

Leon Shears

EDITOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS ASSISTANT EDITORS

Ta Quang Huy Charlotte Blair, Rebecca Brunton, Rainer Sigel Thao Nguyen, My Hien

DESIGNER ADVERTISING EDITORIAL CIRCULATION

Quoc Vuong Marketing@oriental-media.com Editorial@oriental-media.com Circulation@oriental-media.com

MANAGING EDITOR

Esther Faith Lew

WINE EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR DIGITAL WRITER FEATURES WRITER

June Lee Eve Tedja Victoria Lim Destin Tay

SENIOR DESIGNER IT & DIGITAL MEDIA DIRECTOR DIGITAL MEDIA PRODUCER CONTRIBUTORS REGIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR SENIOR BUSINESS MANAGER ADMIN & MARKETING EXECUTIVE MARKETING EXECUTIVE MANAGING DIRECTOR

Shee Leng Jun Evangelista Tu Jie Rui Priyanka Elhence, Jessica Chan, June Lee, Low Shi Ping Dewi Prasodjo Jack Ang Sheila Devi Shauna Mun Dennis Pua

epicure VIETNAM is licensed by Magazines Integrated Private Limited registered in Singapore and produced 4 times a year by: Oriental Media & Event Services Co., Ltd 19/24 Doan Thi Diem Street, Ward 1, Phu Nhuan District, HCMC, Vietnam T: +84 28 3844 1612 | E: editorial@oriental-media.com Printed by Itaxa Company 126 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Distributed by Truong Phat 179 Ly Chinh Thang, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

epicure is available in print, digitally through Apple iTunes and Google Play, and on epicureasia.com facebook.com/epicureasia

ON THE COVER Noel silver snow flake and Noel clear annual ornament, Baccarat Photo Edmond Ho Concept Adeline Wong Art direction and styling Yong Woei Na Recipe by Michael Gremer of The Fullerton Hotel Singapore Shot at The Fullerton Hotel Singapore

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Copyright by the Publisher. Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the Publisher is strictly prohibited. Views and opinions expressed in epicure are not neccessarily those of the Publisher and the Editors. Although every reasonable care has been taken to ensure the accuracy and objectivity of the information provided in this publication, neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All prices are in Singapore dollars unless otherwise stated and exclude miscellaneous taxes.

Publishing License No. 212-2020/CXBIPH/29-02/TN. Publishing Decision: 532/QĐ-TN Date of License Issued: December 16th, 2020. ISBN Code: 978-604-978-955-7.

Size 230 x 280mm. Publishing Quantity: 25,000 copies. Registered in December, 2020

AT RAFFLES HOTEL SINGAPORE

STAY . DINE . SHOP . REJUVENATE rafflescelebrations.com.sg #rafflescelebrations

RAFFLES HOTEL SINGAPORE 1 BEACH ROAD, SINGAPORE 189673 +65 6337 1886

CONTE NTS

EPICURE NEWS 20

21

22

23

GLOBETROTTING EPICURE

A household name 28 The Capitol Kempinski Hotel Reimagining street food The St Regis Singapore Small plates, big flavors 29 Get festive with the New Gemma West meets East Long Beach opens in Robertson Quay As pretty as a picture 30 Fairmont Singapore Small yet mighty

& Swissôtel The Stamford For every mood and occasion Goodwood Park Hotel Food for the soul 31 The Trans Resort Bali Transport to the tropics Grand Hyatt Bali The art of “nhau” 24 Making no misteaks Tickle your tastebuds 25 Saigon’s Garden of Eden A Mediterranean affair Bite-sized stories 26 Fusion Resort, Quang Binh

Azerai villas, your private home in the Mekong Escape the ordinary to extraordinary 27 Dance away at Café Cardinal

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CONTE NTS

GOURMET INSIDER 32 The Reverie Saigon

A wish list favorite 36 R&J Italian Lounge & Restaurant

A culinary journey across Italy 38 Anh Tukk

A breath of fresh air for

Saigon’s Thai cuisine scene 40 Black Vinegar

Charmingly Cantonese 42 Nineteen

The intersection of nations 44 Propaganda

A dish of happiness 45 Bistro Song Vie

Bespoke business meetings

and beautiful banquets 46 Louisiane Brewhouse Hoptimistic 47 Cali Banh Mi Burger Lucas Diner

Back to the future

EPICURE SEASONS 48 Stay, savour, and share

the festive spirit

at the Caravelle Saigon December highlights

at the Park Hyatt Saigon 49 Art de Noel 2020

with Sofitel Plaza Saigon Festive Galore 2020

at Six Senses Ninh Van Bay 50 Feast like a French

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CONTE NTS

GOURMET KNOWLEDGE 54 56 58 64 75 76

United Steaks of America Let's beef it up Whey to go Dough it like a pro Make brewtiful latte art What's new brewing in Singapore's coffee scene

GOURMET TRAVELLER 78 Mountain magic

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80 The communal spirit 82 Curiouser and curiouser

CHEF TRAVELOGUE 86 On the edge. Around the world

CONTE NTS

CHEF MASTERCLASS 90 Return of a star 94 Pay attention to the lunar cycle 98 A fine balance 102 Eating together is about

more than just food

WINE KNOWLEDGE 106 Mapping out wine sustainability 110 On the Austrian wine trail

VINE EXPECTATIONS 114 Labels come to life 116 The consious winemaker 120 The accidental winemaker

CELLAR CHOICE 122 Worthy year-end sips to ring in 2021 123 Three fine white wines

made by female winemakers

SECRET RECIPES 124 Have a sparkly Christmas

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CONTE NTS

RAISING THE BAR

AT HOME WITH

136 Drinking & healing cures all Japanese flavour meets Vietnamese asthetic It’s time for a cocktail at 2 Lam Son 137 Escape the city

Feeling spritzy 138 The best-kept secret

Rum away together

Creative names, curated cocktails 139 Back to the roaring ‘20s

Comfort and cocktails

A culinary rendezvous 140 Where your perfect cocktail awaits you

A haven for all gin enthusiasts

An evening of intrigue and murder

142 Cooking with love

TIPPLE TIPS 141 Seedlip cocktail

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SEEN & SAVOURED 150 Union des Grands Crus de

Bordeaux 2017 Vintage Wine Tasting

at the Park Hyatt Saigon 154 Feasting with fame 156 WHERE TO FIND

EPICURE NEWS

A HOUSEHOLD NAME Quince’s dynamic menu and unwavering commitment to quality cuisine earn the restaurant its stardom in Saigon’s dining scene.

Located in a French colonial-style building in an unassuming part of town, the restaurant’s traditional architecture, comforting yet sophisticated interior and giant wood-fired oven, create a warm and vibrant ambience.

The self-categorized casual fine-dining restaurant has striking flavor at its heart while the ever-changing menu promises the use of seasonal produce while keeping things exciting for Quince patrons. Past favorites have included BBQ toothfish with braised capsicum, leek and saffron compote, Jerusalem artichoke and alba truffle risotto, smoked kingfish ceviche and veal sweetbread schnitzel. This modern European restaurant delivers time and time again and is a must-visit for all lovers of great food. 37bis Ky Con Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Tel: +84 28 3821 8661

REIMAGINING STREET FOOD Ănăn, meaning “eat eat”, is located in a humble and bustling food market from which it sources many of its fresh ingredients. The restaurant’s location in the heart of one of Saigon’s most dynamic markets acts as an ongoing source of culinary inspiration and is the perfect symbol to highlight how Vietnam’s vibrant food culture is at the heart of Ănăn. Specializing in street foodinspired plates which are elevated to breathtaking levels through the use of French culinary techniques, Ănăn showcases their talent through a selection of tasting menus. The Chef’s tasting menu prides itself as being a “homage to Vietnam” by serving delights like caviar congee and one bite Pho while the “Beef 7 Ways” tasting menu and the “Vegetarian Tasting Menu” respectively feature Wagyu, buffalo flank and brisket. Diners can also indulge on classic Da Lat style pizza with a truffle mushroom topping and wok-fried pumpkin bánh xèo tacos if seeking to sample firm favorites of Vietnamese street food.89 Ton That Dam Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 904 792 920

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SMALL PLATES, BIG FLAVORS Enjoy a menu of elevated small-plates and a mesmerizingly romantic dining ambience at Octo Tapas. At this tapas bar, each small-plate is its own masterpiece and the “We Pick, You Eat” option allows diners to put their wholehearted trust into Chef Albert Suarez, something nobody ever regrets. Creativity, masterful use of flavor and the perfection of varied cooking techniques are behind the genius menu at Octo Tapas. “The Para Picar” menu includes marinated white Spanish anchovies and an Iberico secreto “katsu” sandwich while the “From the Sea” menu comprises of an impressive collection of fish-based plates such as tuna tartare, Jonah crab and squid ink black rice. The produce forming all dishes is sourced locally and seafood options rely on a daily catch from Phu Quoc while vegetable dishes utilize crops grown in the highlands of Da Lat. The plates may be small but they promise to deliver.

Promising the perfect accompaniment to each and every palate, the impressive wine menu features an assortment of red and white varieties alongside sparkling house sangrias. For those seeking a creative cocktail, the head bartender promises unique specials, such as “The Big Daddy” which blends aged rum, Martini Rosso, bitters, orange peel and smoking cinnamon sticks. 75 Ho Tung Mau Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 933 002 895

WEST MEETS EAST With innovative fusion menus, a farm-to-table-approach and breathtakingly elegant restaurant interiors, Pizza 4P’s fulfil their mission of “Delivering Wow, Sharing Happiness.”

The Japanese flavors detected in a menu inspired by comforting Italian favorites is testament to Pizza 4P’s innovation. Miso, teriyaki, soy and ginger are reoccurring aromas and stand to offer an exciting twist on Italian cuisine while breathing new life into age-old Italian classics.What’s more, the restaurant’s farm-to-table approach means that diner’s know exactly where their food is sourced. With farmers in Da Lat sending their harvest directly to the Pizza 4P’s restaurants, exciting dishes like the Da Lat “shiitake” mushrooms with Parma ham and cacao nibs are lovingly created. For the cheese-lovers, the restaurant’s in-house cheese studio in the small town of Don Duong is behind the camembert truffles, Caprese salad, and of course, the signature thin-crust, wood-fired burrata pizza. Pizza 4P’s will always have a place in Vietnam’s ever-growing food scene. Ground Floor, Ruby Home 1, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh Street, Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3622 0500

AS PRETTY AS A PICTURE The Monkey Gallery showcases the Art of Dining by offering an exciting range of both sweet and savory dishes that are as aesthetically pleasing as they are delectable.

Underpinning both the menu and the contemporary dining space is the ethos that the subtle details are what make for a fulfilling gastronomic experience. The carefully selected tableware, cutlery and interior design mean that although there are no paintings on the wall, guests are immersed into a chic, gallery-like space.

Firm favorites of the savory menu include the Iberico suckling pig with green pea and teriyaki, baby lamb with eggplant and black garlic and Patagonian toothfish with cassava and soy butter. Of the desserts, The Monkey Gallery’s signature deconstructed tiramisu is a must-have. Its creative blend of rich mascarpone cheese, aromatic coffee cream and sweet sponge cake promise to delight diners’ taste buds and satisfy the sweet-toothed among us.

Every dish is a work of art. 3rd Floor, 91 Mac Thi Buoi Street., District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 793 991 992

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SMALL YET MIGHTY

FOR EVERY MOOD AND OCCASION Sleek, elegant and refined, Esta Eatery is a restaurant which strikes a harmonious balance of comfort and fine dining. The rich and sophisticated interior showcases a deep yet warm colour scheme with marble floors, stunning chandeliers and brown leather, providing the perfect environment for a menu as equally lavish.

Esta Eatery’s three dining times: Pre-Theatre, Dinner and Esta by Night spans from late afternoon to the early hours of the morning, meaning that each slot perfectly complements different moods and occasions. Pre-theatre diners can enjoy a lighter menu with carefully considered wine pairings, Dinner guests can experience the full dining experience with the Chef’s Menu 8 courses and for late-night revellers, Esta Eatery by Night offers flaming-hot kushiyaki, fresh side plates and curated cocktails.

With a menu that is constantly evolving, Esta Eatery’s chefs honour Asian tastes in a contemporary way. Behind each plate is the presence of a flame grill which gives the dishes deep and fiery flavours. Unmissable options include the whole rainbow trout with burnt orange beurre noisette, smoked eel pate, braised scallop in a shiitake truffle soy and the smoked chocolate mousse with drunken cherries. 27 Tran Quy Khoach Street, Tan Dinh Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 7108 3782

One of Saigon’s more intimate eateries, KIBA’s small plates and cozy venue proves that bigger does not always mean better. The Spanish fusion restaurant takes its inspiration from the delicacy and fragrance that underpins Asian cuisine, masterfully coining flavours from two different regions to deliver exceptional tapas. KIBA’s very own garden, located on the top level, produces organic greens such as cilantro, mustard leaves and basil, meaning all dishes are garnished with local produce.

The tapas menu features catch of the day ceviche with smoked avocado, pomelo and sweet tomatoes with a soy glaze as well as squid and chicken croqueta balls, smoked duck, sous vide razor clam and smoked sardine with pork skin, salmorejo and pickled beetroot. The bigger plates maintain the delicacy of the tapas menu and include Presa Iberica with corn puree, pickled red radish and lime nuoc cham as well as the beef rendang which features tender rib, roasted cashews and coconut rice. 31 Pho Duc Chinh Street, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3807 2893

FOOD FOR THE SOUL The fiery passion that is quintessential to Latin American culture is no stranger to Sol Kitchen. With rattan furnishing, a white and terracotta colour scheme and an abundance of cacti, Sol Kitchen is a taste of South America in the heart of Saigon.

The Latin American inspired menu boasts vibrant, fresh and sensationally spiced cuisine.

With mushroom quesadilla’s and truffle aioli, Wagyu beef empanadas and Wagyu beef chilli con carne to start, classic Latino dishes are elevated by luxury ingredients. For mains, diners can enjoy the likes of tartar of cobia, swordfish Carpaccio and Baja fish if seeking a citrusy and fragrant taste while those wanting heartier plates can opt for Argentinian style beef short ribs or Iberico pork ribs. Guests can also satisfy their sweet tooth with a decadent desserts menu that features churros with almond crumble and indulgent chocolate fudge.

The cocktail menu continues to pay homage to the Latin American inspiration behind the menu and offers an exquisite range of curated cocktails using lime, rum and jalapenos. Found on this menu is the mezcal sour, sangria and, of course, Sol Kitchen’s perfected margarita. 115 Ly Tu Trong, Ben Thanh Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 799 991 811

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TRANSPORT TO THE TROPICS Transporting guests to a tropical heaven, The Brix Eatery Saigon is a new arrival in Saigon’s dining scene that promises to impress.

The open-air restaurant boasts an abundance of luscious greenery and has a sparkling and inviting pool at its centre, making The Brix Eatery Saigon a perfect haven for enjoying creative cocktails, fine wine and Al Fresco dining.

The A La Carte menu has modern Asian food at its core that is presented with the same level of finesse as the restaurant’s interior.

To start, guests can either enjoy a seasonal grilled vegetable salad, tomato Caprese, shrimp tataki or a vibrant lobster salad. The main course promises to satiate and acclaimed options include the panseared French duck breast with burnt leek, duck Parmentier, potato gratin, lemon jam garlic confit and the pan-seared black cod with Swiss chard, fennel confit and shrimp dumplings. The Light Bites menu includes fresh oysters, deep-fried soft-shell crab and “tay bac” grilled pork belly and perfectly showcase the mastery behind The Brix Eatery Saigon’s cuisine. What’s more, the extensive red, white and sparkling wine menu, as well as the curated cocktails list, means that The Brix Eatery Saigon offers a beverage for every mood, hour and occasion. 26 Tran Ngoc Dien Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 907 851 010

THE ART OF “NHAU” LAAIRAI’s intimate and inviting atmosphere perfectly encapsulates Vietnamese “Nhau” culture, encouraging heartfelt conversations and the enjoyment of good food through its sophisticated yet cozy atmosphere and talented chefs. Celebrating the traditions of Vietnamese cuisine whilst reflecting Saigon’s penchant for the contemporary, LAAIRAI is the perfect venue for friends, couples and families alike.

The innovative menu boasts flavour and artistry, using local ingredients sourced from various Vietnamese regions while drawing on a blend of cooking techniques such as steaming, fermentation, grilling and stir-frying. The signature dishes include medium rare beef with Ponzu sauce, lemongrass chicken with "Chẩm Chéo" Northern Hill Tribe sauce and crunchy soft-shelled crab salad.

The sumptuous skewers range include quail egg wrapped bacon and king oyster mushroom while the unmissable noodle option is the stir-fried cha soba with prawn and garlic butter clam. Finally, a restaurant that pays homage to Vietnamese cuisine would not be complete without the beloved edition of com (rice) dishes and the range includes street style salmon fried rice and rice with fried chicken and green pepper sauce. 100 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Tel: +84 931 537 368

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MAKING NO MISTEAKS With their prudent use of only the finest beef, a team of artisanal steak chefs and the embodiment of the Japanese concept of “Omotenashi”, IL CORDA stands tall as one of Saigon’s most notable steakhouses. Using a range of Japanese A5 grade Wagyu beef, Australian Tajima Wagyu, and Australian grain-fed beef, guests are promised food of an unbeatable quality. The artisanal steak chef’s mastery of the charcoal-grilling technique means that steak at IL CORDA boasts the sought-after charcoal aroma without compromising the meat’s succulence. At the heart of IL CORDA is “AKON-YOSAI”, meaning Asian spirit, Western style. The menu exhibits this fusion through its careful blend of Japanese spirit with Western cuisine while crafting Asian spices and aromas into appetisers, soups and side dishes and boasting a drinks menu that features Asian classics like Sake, Jinro and Shochu. 11 Le Thanh Ton Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3823 4929

TICKLE YOUR TASTEBUDS In Chinese culture, the term of endearment, “Bao Bei”, is used between family members and lovers. The concept behind this Chinese restaurant is therefore one of love and comfort and Bao Bei pays homage to its name through its warm and playful interior and carefully curated menu that caters for all tastes. The menu a La Carte features a wide assortment of dumplings ranging from humble yet delicious pork fillings to black truffle oil and venison. Bao Bei also offers a variety of steamed and fried dishes as well as goose delicacies and premium classics like braised abalone. Amongst the vegetarian specials is stir-fried eggplant, sautéed mock shrimps and the time-old favourite, vegetable fried rice. Diners can satisfy their sweet tooth with the likes of custard and lotus buns or herbal jelly while indulging in sweet milk-teas or invigorating detox health drinks. Level 2, Viettel Tower Building, 285 Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ward 12, District 10, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 901 363 388

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SAIGON’S GARDEN OF EDEN Recent years have seen Peach Garden flourish from a traditional Cantonese-style eatery into a luxury diner that has garnered great appreciation worldwide. In spite of such prominence, Peach Garden Vietnam remains a warm and welcoming restaurant found in the renowned Landmark 81. The chefs blend complimenting aromas and flavours with a mastery of skilful cooking techniques to create an exceptional menu. Although Peach Garden Vietnam has been adapted from its Singapore restaurants, the Saigon venue uses fresh local ingredients prepared by Vietnamese kitchen staff. The signature dishes include succulent roasted Peking duck, pan-fried sliced sea perch in a rich plum sauce and roasted BBQ pork with honey sauce crisp-fried. Peach Garden also offers a carefully curated assortment of set menus for guests wishing to sample the full-range of the restaurant’s delicacies. Lot L4-02, Vincom Center Landmark 81, Vinhomes Central Park, Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: +84 28 3639 9999

A MEDITERRANEAN AFFAIR The masterminds behind Jardin Des Sens are to thank for the Mediterranean Bistronomic Grocerant concept that is Mama Sens. Blending restaurant dining with a fine groceries shopping experience, the all-inone concept provides Saigoneers with the unique opportunity to shop and dine under one roof. The acclaimed Michelin Chefs at Mama Sens have curated a menu which features deli-like options of premium cold meat cuts, an assortment of cheeses, premium sandwiches and nourishing salads, making Mama Sens Saigon’s go-to spot for lunch. Exquisite mains showcase the Bistronomic Grocerant concept and features the like of octopus burger, crab and cram linguine and aioli fish of the day alongside a dessert menu including sweet classics such as tiramisu, crème brûlée and panna cotta. The restaurant features indoor dining in a casual, yet contemporary, setting as well as the option to dine Al fresco. The delicatessen concept is created by stocking a range of groceries that are prudently handpicked from both international and local suppliers where premium quality is always prioritised. 16 Thao Dien Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3824 2986

BITE-SIZED STORIES Famed as the city’s “sexy tapas bar”, Tomatito’s playful, yet sophisticated, ambience promises to stir the senses with small-plates made for sharing and a sultry atmosphere created by the interior’s black and red colour scheme. The impressive menu features all the usual tapas suspects, allowing tapas purists to savour traditional delights such as cold cut Premium Iberian ham, paella, croquettes and patatas bravas. Chef Willy’s casual interpretation of the prêt-àporter concept has resulted in an imaginative array of sharable bites including spicy clams with chorizo and Chef Julio’s secret sauce as well as chocolate brownie with caramelised truffle popcorn and mascarpone mousse. For the indecisive, Tomatito offers the “Selección del Chef Julio”, an ever-changing menu featuring the day’s sexiest tapas. Tomatito also features an impressive bar where guests can enjoy Aperitivo, Spanish inspired signature cocktails and wine by the glass or bottle. 1st Floor, 171 Calmette Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 6938 8864

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FUSION RESORT, QUANG BINH Fusion Resort opened their doors in Quang Binh in 2020, bringing to the region elegant, wellness-focused accommodation in the form of spacious villas with stunning ocean views. The new rooms offer private gardens and plunge pools and are ideal for young families, groups of friends and couples looking for a romantic getaway. Indulge in the complementary health activities such as yoga and meditation and treat yourself to the luxurious spa treatments available. Located next door to Ke Bang National Park and Son Doong Cave, Fusion should be on your list of destinations to visit in 2021. Vo Nguyen Giap Street, Bao Ninh Commune, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province, Vietnam. Tel: +84 913 29 58 57

AZERAI VILLAS, YOUR PRIVATE HOME IN THE MEKONG

ESCAPE THE ORDINARY TO EXTRAORDINARY Transport yourself to the island oasis of Nam Nghi Phu Quoc by Hyatt. This new resort is part of their Unbound Collection, the first to open their doors in Southeast Asia. Nam Nghi is set in the UNESCO World Heritage-designated Kien Giang Reserve and is surrounded by stunning tropical rain forests, wetlands, ocean views and more. Designed with sustainability in mind, you will marvel at the Vietnamese craftsmanship the Hyatt delivered to their luxurious villas. Partake in the countless spa offers and relax on the stunning beaches of Phu Quoc for an ultimate paradise escape. Hamlet 4, Cua Can Commune, Phu Quoc District, Kien Giang Province, Vietnam. Tel: +84 29 7389 1234

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The villas at Azerai Can Tho set a new standard in the Mekong Delta.

Using sustainably sourced materials, the villas are beautifullyappointed and spacious with contemporary features. The range of services offered in the villa include complimentary welcome drinks on arrival, daily turndown service with a gift placed thoughtfully on your pillow, a 45-min head or shoulder massage and a sunset or brunch cruise. Every request is tailored to your requirements.

Housekeeping services are offered on a 24/7 basis and can be requested multiple times a day, if needed. The villa can be turned into a venue for a private dinner or event at a moment's notice.

The villas are designed to make you feel at home when traveling to the Mekong Delta. We will even keep your preferred bottle of wine, favourite books or kids toys for your next stay and set the room up exactly the way you like it. Con Au Islet, Hung Phu Ward, Cai Rang District, Can Tho City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 292 3627 888

Dance away at Café Cardinal A fairytale-Esque escape, Thé Dansant is Café Cardinal’s latest venture that promises to leave you with a full heart. With live music, lots of dancing and delicate afternoon tea, Sundays at Café Cardinal transport guests to simpler, more romantic times.

F

irst launched in mid-October, Thé Dansant has been adding a wave of joy to visitors Sundays for a couple of months and promises to continue doing so. The beautiful harmony of live classic jazz, swing big band hits and vintage French chansons with Café Cardinal’s famous afternoon tea set has elevated Sunday afternoons in Saigon. Found on the afternoon tea set is a delectable selection of Vietnamese and European favorites, expertly crafted into delicate canapés along with imported Dammann Frères teas and optional champagne or sparkling wine. Such an elegant selection of food and beverages alike, when enjoyed in Café Cardinal’s sophisticated venue with the live musical band make Thé Dansant the perfect occasion to dance away every Sunday. The Reverie Saigon (Level 6), 22-36 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: +84 28 3823 6688

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GLOBETROTTING EPICURE

THE ST REGIS SINGAPORE

Festive dining with an Asian spin takes over the menu at 15 Stamford by Alvin Leung, with lunch options such as Wild Snapper in Kumquat Shoyu Dressing and Tajima Wagyu Beef Rump with Assam Sauce; while dinner goes classic with flavours such as Foie Gras with Raspberry Spiced Apple and Hokkaido Black Angus Beef Tenderloin with Black Truffle and Duck Fat Potato.

• From Dec 1 to 25: Festive Set Lunch at $58 (3-course), $68 (4-course); Festive Set Dinner at $158 (5-course). Christmas Day Buffet Lunch at $168; Festive Dinner Set at $158 (5-course).

• From Dec 31 to Jan 1: New Year's Eve Set Lunch at $58 (3-course), $68 (4-course); New Year's Eve Set Dinner at $158 (5-course).

Festive high tea can be enjoyed at The Lobby Lounge with handcrafted items for a 5-course menu with tea pairing at $68, available from Dec 1 to Jan 1.

The hotel's Festive Takeaways such as signature roast items and Christmas goodies and cakes are available by pre-orders online: shop-capitolkempinski.com. The Roasted Black Angus Beef Prime Rib with Horseradish, Mustard & Beef Jus as well as Baked Gammon Ham with Rum Honey Glaze, Apple Sauce & Pork Raisin Sauce are great choices, as is the signature Lady in Red Log Cake of Genoise Cake, Raspberry, Lychee & Rose.

Indulge in spectacular yuletide festive dining from the House of Astor (available for pre-order from festive-stregissingapore.oddle.me).

Highlights of the gourmet takeaway menu include Whole Roasted Turkey with Buttered Brussels Sprouts and Truffle Mashed Potato ($198), Marinated Salmon with Citrus Zest ($52), and Côte de Boeuf with Roasted Potatoes ($164+).

From 21-30 December, Executive Chef Thibault Chiumenti at Brasserie Les Saveurs serves up traditional Turkey Ballotine stuffed with Chestnuts ($46), served with Brussel sprouts, baby carrots, potato purée and turkey jus.

The Christmas Indulgence dinner spread includes Whole Roasted Turkey with Buttered Brussels Sprouts and Truffle Mashed Potato and Honey-glazed Gammon Ham, a bountiful Plateau de Fruits de Mer, French specialties, and a lavish roving dessert trolley. Christmas Eve ($328 with free flow Champagne, wines, beers & soft drinks).

• Christmas Day Champagne Brunch ($268 with free flow Champagne, wines, beers & soft drinks).

Ring in the New Year in style with Steamed Barramundi with Clam Velouté and Seared Hokkaido Scallop with Leek-Onion Compote and Baerii Caviar, finishing with classic French desserts of Crêpes Suzette and Charlotte Cake.

• New Year’s Eve ($268 with free flow Champagne, wines, beers & soft drinks) • New Year’s Day Champagne Brunch ($198 with free flow wines, beers & juices/$208 with free flow Champagne, wines, beers & soft drinks)

For reservations, call 6368 8888 or email: reservations.singapore@kempinski.com

For reservations, call 6506 6860, email bls@stregis.com brasserielessaveurs.com

THE CAPITOL KEMPINSKI HOTEL

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GET FESTIVE WITH THE NEW GEMMA The IlLido Group redefines upscale steakhouse dining with a trendy buzzy interpretation of a sophisticated Italian steakhouse with personalised Gueridon service.

Located in National Gallery, the 68-seater GEMMA is helmed

by Group Executive Chef Daniele Sperindio who hails from Tippling Club, Alinea, Fat Duck and Narisawa. He showcases innovative techniques that highlight the best of opulent ingredients such as A5 Miyazaki Wagyu Beef Sirloin from Japan; 20-day aged Foyle Striploin from Ireland and Te Mana Lamb Rack from New Zealand.

Tuscan-style Bistecca Fiorentina are seared in front of guests in the jewel of the kitchen – the Josper oven. From the 30-day aged Porterhouse to the 45-day aged bone-in ribeye Costata, each cut is exclusively sourced and dry-aged for GEMMA. Chef Daniele emphasises Mediterranean flavours in its steak menu with the lightness of vegetables, fish and seafood. An inhouse curing room also allows him to play with different textures and flavour profiles in the creative Tea-smoked Ora king Salmon; Sheep Panna Acida, Citrus; Drunken Striped Jack Tartare, Coriander Emulsion, Garlic Shoot; and 12-Spices Swordfish Belly, Charred Baby Leek, Eggplant Caponata.

Gemma also offers inventive cocktails and an extensive list of Italian and French wine, such as Barolo, Brunello, Super Tuscans and Burgundy, and also organic and biodynamic wines from old and new world regions.

National Gallery Singapore, #05-03, 1 St Andrews Road.

Tel: 8787 0977

LONG BEACH OPENS IN ROBERTSON QUAY Seafood lovers of the famed black pepper crab from Long Beach will now be able to indulge in the contemporary setting of the latest outlet in Robertson Quay. Long Beach takes its place along the Singapore River to satiate the appetites of families and corporate groups alike, with the added convenience of a de-shelling service for easy dining at any time.

Fans can expect to find a range of premium delicacies such as Live Alaskan King Crab, Southern Australian Lobster, Scottish Razor Clam, Dungeness Crab and more. Favourites such as the Original Black Pepper Crab, which is coated with its signature piquant black pepper sauce after being stir-fried, remain the highlight of any meal.

For variety, opt for the Sampling Menu, which presents a range of dishes in small portions so that diners do not miss out on its popular options, making it ideal for solo diners or couples. The tender Grilled Chicken Satay offers satisfying savoury bites accompanied by sweet and spicy peanut sauce topped with pineapple puree and crunchy cucumber and onion slices, while the BBQ Sotong with Spicy Sauce served in skewers and glazed with a sweet-spicy sauce is equally addictive, pairing well with sake or beer. Ending with the Chilli Crab and handmade fried buns, diners will be satisfied by this mini presentation of a seafood indulgence.

The Quayside, #01-14, 60 Robertson Quay. Tel: 6336 3636

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FAIRMONT SINGAPORE & SWISSÔTEL THE STAMFORD

GOODWOOD PARK HOTEL

Have a taste of Executive Chef Kirk Westaway’s reinterpretation of British cuisine at JAAN by Kirk Westaway. For two days only, he will be presenting a curated menu of fine seasonal ingredients. On Christmas Eve, diners will feast on the likes of Scottish Langoustine with Egg Yolk Ravioli, Creedy Carver Devonshire Duckling with Apple, Cranberry and Goose Sauce. New Year's Eve features Cornish Seabass with Caviar Sauce & Truffle Pudding, Blue Lobster with Pickled Pumpkin, and Wagyu Sirloin with Black Truffle Mushroom Tart.

• Christmas Eve dinner: $250 (premium wine pairing) to $388 (Krug Grand Cuvée).

• New Year's Eve dinner: $250 (premium wine pairing) to $488 (Krug Grand Cuvée).

SKAI’s panoramic views provide the ideal setting for the many festive brunch, lunch, high tea and dinner menus on offer.

• Festive Christmas Brunch: $218 per adult with free flow Taittinger Brut Reserve, SKAI cocktails, wines and beers. Festive Set Dinner from Dec 1 to 23, 26 to 30 at $128 (3-course) and $145 (4-course).

• Christmas Eve & Christmas Day Set Dinner: $208 (5-course) inclusive of a glass of Taittinger Brut Reserve.

• New Year's Eve Set Dinner: $168 (4-course) inclusive of a glass of Taittinger Brut Reserve.

The Deli’s new festive takeaway menu commemorates the iconic hotel’s 120 years with impressive savoury Asian interpretations of Christmas classics and gorgeous sweet creations (pre-order from goodwoodparkfestive.oddle.me). Highlights include the har cheong gai-inspired ‘Har Cheong’ Turkey and Vegetable Rice with Spicy Thai-style Dip and Scallion Sour Cream ($118/8pcs, serves 4). For sweets, the elegant, limited-edition Ivory Christmas Celebration Log Cake centrepiece ($108/1kg), features a Napoleon cake with roasted macadamia nuts and lemon crémeux in creamy Valrhona ivory chocolate mousse, embellished with gold flakes and chocolate pastillas snowflakes. Back by popular demand, order the slow-roasted Ibérico Pork Belly with Crackling, Pickled Cabbage, Apple Sauce and Pork Jus, accompanied with Potato Gratin ($368, serves 6-8 pax); Traditional Christmas Chocolate Log Cake ($68/1kg) is decked in dark chocolate ganache, mushroom-shaped meringues and redcurrants; and the classic Traditional Christmas Fruit Cake ($66/1.2kg; $36/500g) topped with icing and mini macarons for the larger size.

All healthcare personnel receive 20% on festive takeaways (except Combo Specials, Durian Log Cakes and Durian Ice Cream Tubs); and 10% of log cake sales will be donated to The Straits Times School Pocket Money Fund.

For reservations, call 6339 7777 email: reservations.singapore@fairmont.com

For reservations, call 6730 1867/68 email: festive@goodwoodparkhotel.com

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THE TRANS RESORT BALI In the spirit of supporting the local community, The Trans Resort Bali offers two wonderful feasts for this Christmas season. For a sparkling Christmas Eve, join the resort’s executive chef Amaury Belkhanfar on a special collaboration with KUDETA’s head chef, Jeremy Hunt. Taking place at Mejekawi Restaurant, KUDETA, enjoy an impeccable five-course French-inspired tasting menu priced at Rp850,000/person. On 25 December, celebrate with a lunch buffet at the resort’s The Restaurant. Show your support for Yayasan Santa Mariana orphanage while enjoying tasty bites, from Roasted Turkey to Balinese Crispy Duck. Rp400,000/person.

For reservations, call +62 361 8981234 email: reservation.bali@thetranshotel.com.

GRAND HYATT BALI Aside from the usual Christmas and New Year’s festive feasts, Grand Hyatt Bali has prepared a gamut of gourmet treats for your merrymaking at home. Order in advance at The Santa Shop and impress your guests with traditional favourites such as Roasted Whole Free-Range Chicken with Pistachio, Cranberries and Liver Stuffing (Rp300,000); Crispy Pork Belly “Porchetta” Stuffed with Mushrooms, Fennel, Sage and Rosemary (Rp600,000), and Honey Pumpkin, Pecan and Mascarpone Pie (Rp140,000). A 5kg Traditional Slow Roasted Turkey with gravy and house-made cranberry sauce (Rp1,900,000) is also available.

On 24 December, head to Garden Café for a Christmas Eve Carving Dinner (Rp450,000/person) where turkey, prime beef rib and duck are served tableside. Alternatively, Nampu is serving Seafood & Beef Christmas Eve Dinner, teppanyaki style (Rp785,000/person).

Feast on 25 December with Christmas Day’s Brunch on the Table (Rp475,000/person) at Salsa Verde. Enjoy all-you-can-eat tapas-style brunch where BBQ, carving stations, antipasti, pizza, and pasta passaround are served in steady stream.

For reservations, call +62 361 771234 email: balgh-customer_services@hyatt.com

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GOURMET INSIDER

The Reverie Saigon A wish list favorite

Embrace the festive season with a staycation at The Reverie Saigon by enjoying a host of on-site experiences and delights. With deluxe accommodation, festive afternoon tea, a personal Christmas tree, special night time treats from Santa and free use of the swimming pool, steam & sauna facilities, a staycation at The Reverie Saigon is surely the perfect end to the year.

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afé Cardinal’s seasonal program is sure to get guests feeling festive. The Holiday Afternoon Tea runs through to the New Year and features an impressive assortment of festive treats and seasonal teas redolent of the Christmas period. Every Sunday, Café Cardinal’s afternoon tea is elevated to the pinnacle of festive joy with a special tea dance which features live music, encouraging guests to tap their feet, sway their hips and laugh the day away.

Also at Café Cardinal for the month of December is the Recettes De Yule. This five-course set dinner is a classical French culinary affair where guests can indulge in sumptuous cuisine and perfectly paired wines. Langoustine, foie gras, Argentine prawn dumplings, free-range turkey and a classic Joyeux Noel gingerbread dessert beckons diners to forget their worries and welcome the New Year with a full belly and joyous heart.

Christmas Eve and Christmas day are sure to be memorable occasions at Café Cardinal. La Fete De Noel, running on December 24 and 25, will serve a delectable Christmas five-course feast.

Featuring turkey lobster, foie gras, Wagyu beef and a cheese and

Christmas sweets dessert buffet, this menu provides the perfect culinary experience. Moreover, the Christmas Brunch Buffet boasts seasonal favorites which can be made-to-order by the dedicated kitchen team. With an assortment of sweet delights and the option of free-flow sparkling wine, house wine, German draught beer or Champagne, this buffet promises the perfect start to Christmas day.

Even when Christmas has been and gone, Café Cardinal will still uphold the festive spirit with their Glamorous New Year’s Eve dinner. The five-course feast features sumptuous delights including duck magret, lobster, king crab wontons, beef fillet and a dessert buffet as well as the option of paired wines to complement different dishes. Enjoying this first-class cuisine with picturesque views of Nguyen Hue boulevard is the only way to welcome the New Year with loved ones.

As if this was not enough, the New Year’s Day Brunch at Café Cardinal ensures guests start their year as they mean to go on. With a delectable menu including made-to-order dishes and free-flowing wine, beer and Champagne this brunch is sure to fill guests with excitement for the year ahead.

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It would not be a stay at The Reverie Saigon without paying a visit to R&J Italian Lounge & Restaurant. Luckily, then, R&J has curated a sensational seasonal program for guests choosing to spend the festive season at Saigon’s best-loved hotel. Throughout the month of December, R&J brings guests La Magia Del Natale, an occasion whereby diners can enjoy a bountiful set-menu dinner of Japanese octopus, lobster risotto, Wagyu beef cheek and panettone dessert in The Reverie Saigon’s most romantic and intimate venue. With La Magia Del Natale not running on December 24 and 25, R&J will host the Buon Natale All’Italiana event. The five-course Christmas menu is both hearty and delicious with delights such as Alaskan king crab, foie gras, black cod, duck and traditional Christmas dessert. Finally, R&J offers the opportunity to say goodbye to the year with true Italian passion with their Felice Anno Nuovo on 31 December. The five-course menu with dishes such as poached veal, Baynes Sound oysters, Wagyu beef and a selection of desserts promises to be a night to remember.

The Christmas and New Year’s Eve Set Menu at The Royal Pavilion perfectly embodies the essence of Cantonese fine dining as well as unrivalled hospitality that is so often associated with Cantonese restaurants. The six-course set dinner guarantees to

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satisfy even the most discerning epicureans with delicacies such as baked crab shell stuffed with crab meat, braised abalone, steamed giant grouper fillets and a trio of bird’s nest delights. After enjoying a New Year’s Eve Menu at one of The Reverie Saigon’s restaurants, guests are able to visit the hotel’s flagship bar, The Long, and countdown to the New Year in a vivacious atmosphere.

The Reverie Saigon’s staycation program not only boasts excellent evening options, but daytime too. The Reverie Boutique is a cozy delicatessen with a relaxed café vibe and an assortment of artisanal treats. Fresh salads, sandwiches and simple pastas madeto-order as well as homemade macarons, cakes and cookies make this café a welcome addition to The Reverie Saigon. The selection of festive-themed cakes and pastries including gingerbread houses, traditional Yule log cakes and festive cookies promise a treat for each and every sweet-toothed guest.

No staycation is complete without a visit to the spa. Luckily, then, guests can get party-ready at The Spa with a package carefully designed to enhance their inner sparkle. With a 90-minute body massage, facial by ILA and illuminating Voya shower gel gift, this is a great gift for someone special this season. The festive-package also includes free use of both the gym and pool, meaning guests enjoying a staycation at The Reverie with all of the indulgent delights while feeling guilt-free!

This festive stay promises not to disappoint and is both the perfect end and best beginning to the year.

22-36 Nguyen Hue Boulevard & 57-69F Dong Khoi Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Tel: +84 28 3823 6688

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GOURMET INSIDER

R&J Italian Lounge & Restaurant A culinary journey across Italy

Found in the lavish grounds of The Reverie Saigon, it comes as no surprise that R&J Italian Lounge & Restaurant is the mastermind of Italian cuisine in Saigon.

The exquisite menu, intimate atmosphere and warm, dim lighting make this Italian restaurant the perfect place for cherished occasions.

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ne of the eateries of Saigon’s luxurious The Reverie Hotel, Romeo and Juliet – or R&J as it is lovingly called – is a contemporary Italian restaurant providing only the most memorable nights. The adorned baroque dining room sets a mood of decadence and luxury while the intricate design and furnishings create a romantic ambience. Italian mosaics and elaborate candelabras only add to the joy of R&J’s interior. With jazz humming in the background, diners’ senses are lovingly awakened before even the appetizers have reached the table. The option to feast in either the contemporary dining room or a beautifully appointed private space means R&J is a perfect refuge for all occasions.

The menu is a classical affair with a full range of delectable and authentic Italian cuisine. Chef de Cuisine, Enrico De Martino worked in countless Michelin-starred kitchens in his homeland, Italy, before sharing his passion and talent with Saigon and joining The Reverie Saigon. R&J’s menu takes diners on a culinary journey from northern to southern Italy by featuring regional favorites such as the seafood stew, osso buco.

The two menus creatively named “Romeo” and “Juliet” have been carefully curated to provide guests with a five-course meal which harmonizes savory, sweet, salty and creamy flavors to result in a heavenly gastronomic experience. When opting for the “Romeo” guests can enjoy Apulia burrata with basil crumble, Canadian oyster with salmon roe, paccheri pasta with Grandma’s meat ragout, snapper medallion and saffron sauce and a hazelnut chocolate truffle to finish. The “Juliet” commences with cured salmon and salsa Verde, followed by 65 C egg and cauliflower cream, Pollock fish tortelli, slow-cooked Australian beef and finally, Neopolitan rum babà with fruit and pastry cream. The wine pairing menu has been selected with judicious thought meaning a glass is available to complement each phase of the menu.

The delights of R&J continue to appear with the live seafood counter found on the Ground Floor level. Here, guests can enjoy an extensive selection of Champagne and fresh, premium quality fish, adding to the wondrous appeal of R&J. With such a devilishly moreish menu, beautifully designed dining rooms and an unrivalled ambience, it is no wonder, then, that R&J is one of Saigon’s prestigious District 1’s flagship restaurants.

The Reverie Saigon (level B1), 22-36 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Tel: +84 28 3823 6688

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GOURMET INSIDER

Anh Tukk

A breath of fresh air for Saigon’s Thai cuisine scene Since its opening in 2016 on Dong Khoi Street, Anh Tukk restaurant has been a breath of fresh air for Thai cuisine in Saigon.

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he restaurant’s masterful coupling of bold Thai flavors with the modern diner’s penchant for sophisticated presentation means that Anh Tukk honors the traditions of Thai cooking while promising an unforgettable contemporary dining experience. The support and influence of parent company and ambassadors of Asian food in Vietnam, HT House, can be detected in all of Anh Tukk’s accomplishments, from its creative menu to unsurpassable hospitality.

Designed by YC Interiors, Anh Tukk’s restaurant can be found at 74 Hai Ba Trung, a charming and rustic house belonging to the old French opium factory in Saigon. The elegant and cozy interior means that Anh Tukk is a haven from the hustle and bustle of the metropolis’ daily life, creating the perfect environment for guests to relish unforgettable moments of relaxation and indulgence. The four different serving spaces: glamorous dining halls, a relaxing wine area and a private dining room set in a charismatic wine cellar, make Anh Tukk the

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perfect place for any occasion. Whether having a quick lunch with a customer, a glass of wine with a friend or a romantic evening with a partner, Anh Tukk promises to indulge and satisfy diners while creating an unforgettable experience that embodies HT House’s slogan “from our heart to yours.”

Under the skilful hands and passionate heart of Thai chef, Saran Jittibooruan, at Anh Tukk each dish is upgraded to a work of art in both its taste and immaculate presentation. Chef Saran’s journey to Anh Tukk has been a labor of love and before joining HT House, Chef Saran has worked in acclaimed restaurants and hotels such as Grand Hyatt Bangkok, Siam @ Siam Design Hotel and La Vue. Upon moving to Vietnam, Chef Saran worked at Chen Sea Resort, Phu Quoc, before cooking alongside the widely celebrated Bobby Chin.

Like many great chefs, though, Saran’s passion was borne at home and it was his mother that taught him the fundamentals of Thai cooking and instilled within him a passion for exceptional food.

This passion is sure to be detected by every guest that visits Anh Tukk and is perhaps why the restaurant leaves a lasting impression in the heart of local and foreign diners alike. The carefully curated menu perfectly showcases the original taste of Thai dishes while illustrating innovation through crafty flavor combinations and meticulous presentation. From such a menu, guests can enjoy a fragrant papaya salad, crayfish ‘Tom Yum’, exotic crab curry, succulent grilled pork with tamarind sauce, exquisitely grilled snow fish and flying fish caviar, among many other delights. What’s more, the extensive drinks menu ranging from hand-picked wines from acclaimed regions around the world to a creative sour cocktail selection, promising a delightful beverage for every diner.

Staying true to the family spirit that is at the heart of HT House, Anh Tukk has curated programs for the festive season of Christmas and the coming New Year. With these programs, guests can enjoy menus that perfectly complement the festive spirit as well as reimagined dining spaces that promise an unrivalled venue for the end of year celebrations.

74/7 Hai Ba Trung Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: +84 28 3825 1676

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GOURMET INSIDER

Black Vinegar

Charmingly Cantonese Ho Chi Minh City welcomes a stylish new Chinese restaurant, Black Vinegar offers a stylish and contemporary dining experience with modern Cantonese seafood cuisine.

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n Friday 20 November, Chinese Restaurant Black Vinegar was pleased to welcome all VIP guests on the opening day, with the presence of fashion designer Thanh Truc Truong, model and actress Quynh Thu, member of Monstar band ST.319 Nicky Tran, Rapper Wowy, MC Thanh Bach and reporters attended and shared joy with Black Vinegar Restaurant and the Hotel’s Board of Directors.

Black Vinegar offers a stylish and contemporary dining experience with modern Cantonese seafood cuisine, Vietnamese regional specialties. A warm and sociable ambiance with multiple settings for drinks and dining. With private dining rooms, an exclusive

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Crudo bar, an intimate drinks bar and the chic dining ambience, Black Vinegar is the perfect venue for your every occasion.

Boasting thoughtfully reimagined Chinese culinary classics, Black Vinegar’s menu breathes new life into Chinese cuisine.

Featuring delicate dim sum of either the steamed or fried variety, the exceptional chefs have coined beautiful flavor combinations such as pan-fried pork with chive and beef tripe with chu hou sauce. The presentation of each and every dish – from the dim sum options to the “Hong Kong Style” steamed garoupa – is immaculate and each plate boasts culinary genius and artistic flair.

The assortments of handpicked wines from around the world, local and Chinese beers, curated cocktails, sake and Chinese spirits only add to Black Vinegar’s magnetic charm.

This Cantonese restaurant delivers in all areas and the sociable ambience, mouthwatering food and tempting drinks menu make Black Vinegar an unmissable option.

Black Vinegar is located New World Saigon Hotel, open from 6:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and from 11:30 a.m to 3 p.m on Sunday. Special: on Sundays Black Vinegar has an all you can eat (AYCE) DimSum menu. Black vinegar Reservations may be made by calling 0914 391 171 or by email trinh.nguyen@newworldhotels.com

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GOURMET INSIDER

Nineteen

The intersection of nations More than just a great place for a leisurely brunch, Nineteen transports diners around the world through the power of exceptional cuisine.

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ineteen’s talented chefs harmonize their culinary insights from different cooking backgrounds into striking dishes that please all tastes. With an ever-changing menu, Nineteen carefully prepares the dishes of each day – breakfast, lunch and dinner – to bring diners an expansive array of local and foreign cuisines.

Despite being in the center of Saigon, Nineteen’s seafood buffet is redolent of times spent on Vietnamese coastal regions. Being directly supplied by the paradisiacal Phu Quoc means diners are fortuned with an abundance of premium quality seafood. Moreover, the fine glasses of wine and Champagne perfectly complement fresh seafood and the delectable international dishes, making Nineteen restaurant the perfect venue to escape the city.

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The unrivalled Sunday brunch at Nineteen is the perfect start to each and every Sunday. With oysters, lobsters and grabs at diners’ fingertips alongside freshly carved succulent meats including lamb, ham and beef, the only challenge of Nineteen restaurant is choosing where to start! The delights of this Brunch are never-ending and also available is beautifully presented sashimi, decadent foie gras, imported cheese and cold cuts and much-loved Vietnamese noodle soups. For the sweet-toothed, the dessert table’s array of colorful delights such as pastries and chocolates ensures each brunch ends in sensory bliss.

Whatever the occasion, Nineteen is an unparalleled choice for diners wanting fresh and exquisite cuisine in a vibrant and welcoming atmosphere. Ground Floor, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1, Caravelle Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: +84 90 690 05 23

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GOURMET INSIDER

Propaganda

A dish of happiness Propaganda has Vietnamese values inspiring its menu with a fresh out of the ordinary approach to hospitality.

At this fun bistro, guests can enjoy quintessentially Vietnamese food with a smile thanks to the happiness and joy that accompanies each and every dish.

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orn from the founders’ desire to share their love for Vietnam and Vietnamese culture, Propaganda promises a dining experience like no other. With the five pillars of Vietnamese people at the core of all Propaganda does - Family, Food & Wealth, Health, Education and Labour – a visit to this Bistro is a voyage into the heart of Vietnam.

Propaganda reimagines home cooking and boasts a pure Vietnamese ingredients menu. Family favorites such as spring rolls, noodle salads and crunchy rice bowls are celebrated contenders of the judiciously thought out menu while the innovation lies in the impeccable presentation. With rolls cut into mouthsized bites, Propaganda accommodates modern day preferences for delicacy and aesthetically pleasing plates. Moreover, the desserts are a show-stopping

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blend of traditional meeting modern. The Marou dark chocolate fondue, home-made soursop and sugar can ice-cream and banana in sticky rice make Propaganda the perfect spot for the sweet-toothed diner.

If this was not enough to lure guests in, the thoughtful wine list composed by Vietnamese and French connoisseurs were curated while sampling the menu, meaning each dish can be perfectly complemented by a harmonizing glass. The Propaganda Wine and Food Discovery menus are the perfect choice for those wishing to sample and explore beautifully matched food and wine while embracing a joyful ambience. 21 Han Thuyen Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Tel: +84 28 3822 9048. Web: propagandabistros.com

Bistro Song Vie

Bespoke business meetings and beautiful banquets Situated alongside the picturesque Saigon River, Bistro Song Vie makes the perfect venue for corporate business meetings, festive revelries and wedding celebrations. With sleepy palms, Vietnamese and Asian culinary favourites and thoughtful wine pairings, Bistro Song Vie ensures each and every event is one to remember.

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uch loved in Saigon for its breath-taking setting, romantic ambience and exceptional menu, Bistro Song Vie is more than just a restaurant. The elegance of all three dining areas – the garden, indoor dining hall and parlour – mean Bistro Song Vie can perfectly accommodate the unique tastes and preferences of their every guest. The onsite boardroom, alongside a floor-to-ceiling wall room overlooking the scenic Saigon river reimagines business meetings, creating an unrivalled environment where exciting ideas, ventures and conversations can be explored and cherished. Available meeting facilities include an LCD projector and an audio system as well as the option for secretarial and translation services.

For those celebrating weddings, birthdays or the festive season, Bistro Song Vie’s vast seating and banquet options make it the perfect place for guests to come together and rejoice. The menus, which include an A La Carte Lunch and Dinner menu, have all been thoughtfully prepared to present guests with dishes that embody the elegance and refinery of Bistro Song Vie. With Vietnamese and Asian culinary favourites available as well as delectable Modern cuisine, diners at Bistro Song Vie are promised an unforgettable gastronomic experience. What’s more, the extensive yet judiciously selected wine and drinks menu mean each and every plate can be perfectly paired with a complementing beverage. 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Tel: +84 28 3744 6090. Web: songvie.com

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Louisiane Brewhouse Hoptimistic

Found on the white sandy beach of Nha Trang, Louisiane Brewhouse is a must-visit for beer enthusiasts and epicureans alike.

The unmissable signature dishes include the seafood platter, Australian beef tenderloin, maki rolls & sashimi and the much loved bo luc lac.

With picturesque seafront views, the option of seven different beers brewed on-site, live music and a sensational food menu, Louisiane Brewhouse is a venue providing unparalleled enjoyment, relaxation and escape. Lot 29 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Vietnam.

Tel: +84 258 3521948. Email: info.louisiane.vn. Web: louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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ince its conception in 2006 where Louisiane Brewhouse began by brewing local Pilsner and Dark Lager on-site, the list of brewed beers has expanded to include a selection of seasonal ales, Belgian Wit beer and a fresh and zesty passion fruit edition. The dedicated and talented brewing team work day in day out with imported malt and hops from Australia and New Zealand to produce unrivalled beer that can be enjoyed in a relaxing tropical setting.

The diverse international menu boasts a special collection of Western dishes such as succulent beef steaks, BBQ dishes and handcrafted pizza while the traditional Asian dishes incorporates authentic Japanese cuisine and celebrated Vietnamese options.

The live seafood menu is the pièce de résistance, cooking local and fresh seafood in an assortment of ways to satisfy the appetites of each and every guest.

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Cali Banh Mi Burger - Lucas Diner Back to the future

How to make a burger-joint a memorable and extraordinary experience? Premium quality beef, the infusion of Vietnamese flavors and a traditional jukebox. Cali Banh Mi Burger Lucas Diner is the authentic American diner that Saigon has been waiting for.

Firm favorites of the menu include: shaker beef served with lemon cilantro rice and the signature burger with crispy buttered potatoes and pickled vegetables. This burger-joint does not discriminate and has a mouth-watering vegetarian burger made from organic mushrooms that is both rich and delicate in flavor.

Succulent burgers, an in-house jukebox and an interior design scheme inspired by 60s California, make Cali Banh Mi Burger - Lucas Diner a must-visit for anyone wanting to enjoy blissful and bygone days. 31 Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ben Thanh Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Delivery: +84 962 860 963

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eminiscent of California in the 60s, Cali Banh Mi Burger Lucas Diner provides a unique and cozy atmosphere that distinguishes it from other eateries in Saigon. Cali Banh Mi Burger is a trip down memory lane and the red and white colour scheme and retro furnishings mean this restaurant encourages the fondest nostalgia. With the jukebox playing old-time favorites in the background, Cali Banh Mi Burger is the authentic American diner that Saigon has been waiting for.

Using an heirloom burger recipe from parent restaurant in Sunnyvale, California, the dedicated and talented chefs put their heart and soul into each dish to create traditional Californian burgers in the heart of Saigon. Coupling premium Australian beef with their perfected and bespoke seasoning perfectly enhances each burger’s flavor, promising a delectable and decadent culinary experience.

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EPICURE SEASONS

STAY, SAVOUR, AND SHARE THE FESTIVE SPIRIT AT THE CARAVELLE SAIGON 2020 was certainly a year of challenges and uncertainties, so what a better way to end it then by saying goodbye and wishing for a better 2021 with friends and family. An intimate staycation or a year-end gathering that includes a stroll down memory lane are best when your taste buds can enjoy a culinary journey with a great meal. When it comes to savouring a festive feast and experiencing a very Saigonese year’s end at Caravelle, our Festive Room package deals are the way to go.

Not only are they ideal for spending the night on Christmas Eve, but with the book and stay period lasting until the 28th of February 2021, the validity of our Festive Package extends comfortably into the Tet Holiday period – the most important holiday of the year.

The Festive Package is valued at only VND 2,850,000++ per room per night with late check-out (subject to availability) and includes a VND 350,000 F&B credit per stay for festive dining and facial therapies, and complimentary access to the hotel’s pool, gym, jacuzzi, steam room and sauna. Your stay includes all Signature Privileges if you book a Signature Room or any higher valued room. The price is subject to a 5% Service Charge and 10% VAT. For bookings, email rsvn@caravellehotel.com

DECEMBER HIGHLIGHTS AT THE PARK HYATT SAIGON Nothing ordinary ever happens during Christmas and New Years at The Park Hyatt Saigon.

From the 24th, 25th, and 31st of December and the 1st of January the hotel will celebrate the holiday season with all-day festivities at all locations. From a traditional buffet for both lunch and dinner at both Opera and Square One Restaurant, to a special set dinner menu for intimate celebrations, we cover it all with food and beverage promotions running around the clock.

On New Year’s Eve, bid this year goodbye with a bang at our most anticipated party of the year – Disco Heaven @ 2 Lam Son. Enjoy the last night of 2020 amidst world-class performances by DJ Jessica and Duca Dan as the duo spin Disco and R&B, rocking the night away. For an open-air option, hop on over to After 5 and join the town for the countdown.

On December 24th, 25th and 31st 2020 and January 1st 2021, your staycation will be upgraded with a VND 6,000,000 credit per night to enjoy our grandest festivities and offers.

Room rates start at VND 10,000,000 per night for two guests.

The Italian Sunday Brunch at Opera includes a roasted turkey station and festive dessert buffet, alongside delicious seafood dishes, pasta and roasted meats. Starting at VND 1,800,000 per guest with just an additional VND 400,000 to upgrade to a package featuring free flow Prosecco, there’s something for everyone.

At Square One, the Vietnamese and French cuisine brunch offers 31 dishes, paired with exciting table service and surprising complimentary treats on site. VND 1,000,000 per guest will get you free flow food and drinks with beverage upgrade options available. All prices are subject to a 5% service charge and 10% VAT. For booking, contact: +84 9 6269 0471, or email: saigon.festive.desk@hyatt.com

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ART DE NOEL 2020 WITH SOFITEL PLAZA SAIGON The season of giving and sharing is upon us once again, and Sofitel Saigon Plaza will be bringing you their best holiday nibbles and tipples for Christmas & New Years.

For a Christmas inspired by the world of “Joie de Vivre”, Sofitel Plaza Saigon celebrates the cheerful enjoyment of life and exultation of the spirit. Let your whimsical culinary celebration begin with our timeless French elegance. Indulge in a buffet at Mezz Restaurant for either the Christmas Buffet, Christmas Day Brunch or New Years Buffet Dinner with a feast of traditional turkey, authentic French oysters, tantalizing roasts with hearty premium cuts and a bevy of traditional festive goodies – perfect for a classic and luxurious Christmas celebration priced at VND 1,890,000++ per person (food only) and VND 2,490,000++ per person including free flow Taittinger Champagne, house wine, soft drinks, juice and beer.

Count down in chic style at S Pool Bar & Dining located on the Rooftop with stunning city views. A great venue to be ushering in 2021, indulging in a perfect combination of an exhilarating DJ & live entertainment, a full drinks bar and a midnight toast to remember priced at VND 900,000 net per person including one welcome drink. For reservations please call +84 (28) 3824 1555 or email h2077-fb1@sofitel.com

FESTIVE GALORE 2020 AT SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY Celebrate the spirit of wonder and joy this festive season in an unrivaled hideaway setting with golden sand beaches, towering mountains and spectacular sunset views at Six Senses Ninh Van Bay. We have lined up a series of festive events for you, your loved ones and the whole family to enjoy, including family-friendly activities, spa and wellness programs, and delightful culinary experiences, all specially crafted to enchant the senses and allow you to reconnect with others and nature. Click here to download the festive program.

This perfect year-end retreat offer starts at VND 10,630,000 net per night in a onebedroom Hill Top Poolside Villa or Beachfront Pool Villa with daily breakfast, airport & speedboat transfers, complimentary adventure and wellness activities, access to the Kids’ club, the Grow With Six Senses program, and a 50% discount on individual spa treatments (excluding spa packages). Additionally, the resort also has a special offer for a minimum of two nights stay during the weekdays in December (Sunday to Thursday). Stay and receive a credit of VND 1,000,000 per night which can be used towards dining, spa treatments and activities (except blackout dates).

Sweet Sixteen offers a minimum of three nights stay with 16 complimentary daily activities such as cooking classes, beach picnics, high tea, foot massages, drinks adrift, fishing and much more (except blackout dates), or stay longer and enjoy additional free nights with our compliments – stay 5 nights and pay for only 4.

The offer is exclusively for the residents of Vietnam booking from November 16th to December 31st, 2020. Terms and conditions apply. For reservations: 0258 3524 268 or email reservations-ninhvan@sixsenses.com.

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EPICURE SEASONS

FEAST LIKE THE

French

Inspired by our entertaining recipes for a French-themed dinner party? We have rounded up three fine grocery stores that stock a lavish selection of the best French gourmet products to get you started on your menu planning.

By Priyanka Elhence | Photography by Chino

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Classic Fine Foods For cheese and sweet endings Classic Fine Foods’ newly launched Classic Deli, a one-stop shop for top-quality ingredients and produce, offers discerning consumers 400 products, with best-sellers such as Wagyu beef, burrata, lamb and plant-based meat. “There’s no need to go to France this year because of the great selection of French products available on Classic Deli. Be it fresh, chilled or something frozen, the choice is yours, from charcuterie, foie gras, salmon and caviar, finishing with a cheese platter and delectable pastries, you can easily put together a delicious meal from Classic Deli,” says Jose Luis Del Amo, The Tastelab Pastry Chef.

From left to right (First page) • Weiss Chocolate bar rouge baiser - $8.20/100g • Weiss Chocolate bar kacinkoa 85% - $8.20/100g • Weiss Chocolate bar kacinkoa 85% - $8.20/100g • Assortment “secret de l’ile de Groix” scallop and salmon rillettes / lobster oil - $43.60 • Boncolac apricot tart - $21 • Assortment “comptoir de l’ile de Groix” Fish soup / crab, sardine, mackerel rillettes - $58 • Maffren mini calissons noel - $23.40/110g • Bridor Petit Four Mixed Versailles (63pcs) - $84 (Second page) • Morbier AOP 200g/pc - $12 • Cantal affinage 6 MTHS AOP 200g/pc - $15 • Camembert cru de Normandie 270g/pc - $14 • Beaufort AOP 12-18 months 195g/pc - $20 • Raspberry Tart - $12 • Weiss nougatelles 18pc/190g - $25.60 • Maffren salted butter caramel in round wooden box - $9.90/80g • Sturia Caviar Vintage - $69/30g • Pannettone in box - $6

classicdeli.market/sg

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La Petite Boutique For appetisers, nibbles and wine Created by four French friends passionate about good products such as cheese, charcuterie, wines and so much more, La Petite Boutique recreates a typical French shopping experience in Singapore with great service, knowledgeable advice and a friendly experience.

Says Morgane Foucaud, founder/owner, “We opened La Petite Boutique in 2014, a time where people were seeking good and affordable cheeses and new foodie experiences. We source most of our products directly from France, and we also carry some Italian, Swiss, Spanish and British cheeses.”

La Petite Boutique works with smaller farms and producers to create its range of about 90 different type of cheeses. The same principal goes for their grocery products which are all regional items, made with premium ingredients without any palm oil, to enhance the taste and to guarantee an enjoyable experience for customers.

“Every year, La Petite Boutique selects the best quality products to create a memorable French Christmas with duck foie gras, New Zealand smoked salmon, French oysters, Alaskan lobsters, premium caviar, ready-to-roast turkey, artisanal cheeses, champagnes and delicious chocolates.

Complementing our range of products this year are gorgeous panettone and Christmas log cakes from local artisans,” says Foucaud.

From left to right: • Lhuillier Magnum - $129 • Grand Moment Sauternes - $55 • Chocolate to Break with sugar cane - $40/pc • Champagne Lhuillier Brut - $65 • Pouligny Saint Pierre – $24/pc • Champagne Duval Leroy Blanc de Blancs – $102 • Pouligny Saint Pierre – $24/pc • Whole duck liver Foie Gras from France - $79/pc • Truffle Brie 200g - $28.90/pc • Oysters Fine de Claires #3 – $65/24pcs • Pâté en croute – $7.80/100g • Artisan French Saucisson – $22.90 • Mini Saucisson stick & balls – $9.90/100g • NZ Smoked salmon 200g - $33/pkt

4 Kensington Park Road.

Tel: 6717 1849 petiteboutique-sg.com

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“La Petite Boutique works with smaller farms and producers to create its range of about 90 different types of cheeses.”

Morgane Foucaud, owner, La Petit

Ryan’s Grocery For healthy meats and mains This popular one-stop destination offers natural and organic carbon-neutral products without gluten, artificial additives and preservatives. Says Adam Speering, Ryan’s Grocery’s Butcher from Australia, “Australia is our go-to country for good quality, certified-free-range pork, organic grass-fed beef or lamb, along with its more stringent gluten-free certification requirement compared to other countries, so consumers have the peace of mind that a high level of food quality is assured for all our products. Strong building blocks are the key to a great product and as we import only the best meat, we are able to produce great quality in-house meat products like ham and sausages. Since opening five years ago, Ryan’s Grocery has developed a close relationship with the producers that we work with.

We do not sell anything that isn’t tested by us and our founders first. We strongly believe in the importance of using food for healing, and are aware of illnesses

resulting from the intake of processed foods. 90% of the products in Ryan’s Grocery are allergen-friendly, with a focus on sustainable, carbon-neutral certified products, non-GMO and fair-trade products, as well as those with animal welfare in mind. This is why Ryan’s is the best place to shop for your Christmas feasts.”

From left to right: • Sileni Grand Reserve Triangle Merlot 2018 - $58.00 • Ausbarrel Sticky Balsamic (Quince) - $23.90 • Ballymaloe Cranberry Sauce - $6.90 • Artigiani Del Tartufo Truffle Mustard (100g) - $18.90 • Borrowdale Pork Belly Rolled - $22.50/500g • Roaring Forties Lamb Easy Carve - $49.70/kg • Yarra Valley Roasted Capsicum Splash - $21.90 • WX Ribeye MB5+ - $45.15/300g • Organic Roast Turkey - $189/3kg • Organic Carbon Neutral OP Rib - $91/kg • Spanish Pork Chorizo - $3/100g • Irish Pork Sausage - $2.80/100g

1 Kim Seng Promenade, Great World City, #B1-144/145.

Tel: 6767 3393

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G O U R M E T K N OW L E D G E

United Steaks of America When it comes to a well-marbled steak, U.S. beef ticks all the right boxes.

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A

sk any top-notch steakhouse around the world what’s the secret to its success and one of the answers will always be this: premium U.S. beef.

It’s no secret that U.S. beef delivers flavour, tenderness and juiciness in a way that is arguably equalled by no other meat. The figures speak for themselves: 25.8 billion pounds of U.S. beef were produced in 2018 alone.

With over 80 purebreds (the three primary categories are Bos Indicus, Bos Taurus Continental, and Bos Taurus British a.k.a. Angus), cattle production takes place in all 50 states of America. Due to their massive pastures, the majority is bred in Texas, Nebraska, Iowa and Winconsin. Calves are raised on a cowcalf farms, where they are weaned at six months. They are then placed in feed yards for a minimum of 4 – 6 months and fed with high quality roughage and feed-grains mainly corn. The best cuts of beef sports a rich marbling of fat throughout, a purple-red hue and yields an enviably tender texture.

Only when the cattle are processed will the grading assessment be done by a United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) certified grader. Although the USDA divides beef into eight grades, only the top five ever make it on diners’ plates. The rest are known as processed and canned meats. The top three distinctions – Prime, Choice and Select, in descending order – are graded according to marbling. Only three percent of beef, taken from young, well-fed cattle, make this Prime grade annually.

Not only is U.S. beef scrumptious, it is a nutrient-dense meat that supplies a large share of essential nutrients. Studies have shown that beef contains nine times as much vitamin B-12, over twice as much iron and four times as much zinc as chicken. Plus, the majority of the iron in beef is known as heme iron and is five times more available to the body than iron found in other foods.

President and chief executive officer, Dan Halstrom, sums it up best. “U.S. beef provides a unique and highquality dining experience from a wide range of cuts. So it can be enjoyed in a variety of settings – from in-home preparation to family-style casual dining to very highend steakhouses. There’s something for everyone”.

For more information: U.S. Meat Export Federation Inc Singapore Rep. Office Web: usmef.org Facebook: USMEF ASEAN

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Let’s beef it up U.S beef elevates the taste of countless dishes from Roasted Tomahawk Steak in Xinjiang Style served with Green Papaya Salad to charcoal grilled Korean short ribs.

These six restaurants make the cut.

Satiate your meat cravings with two U.S. beef dishes from NUDE Grill. The Bone-in U.S. Angus Shortrib is slow-cooked for 26 hours, glazed with house-made sumac barbecue sauce before being grilled on a binchotan charcoal fire for a smoky aromatic finish. The Dry-aged Prime Rib is another indulgent option. The well-marbled, 45-day dry-aged Cote de Boeuf is accompanied with a 90-day aged black garlic sauce and crisp golden rosti with smoky bonito flakes. #01-22, Marina One East Tower, 5 Straits View. Tel: 6581 9306 You won’t regret sinking your teeth into Peach Blossoms’ Insta-worthy Roasted U.S. Tomahawk Steak in ‘Xinjiang’ Style. Marinated with herbs like cumin powder and Chinese pepper, the U.S. Tomahawk is then roasted at 52ºC for 45 minutes. The juicy and tender steak is served with executive chef Edward Chong’s green papaya salad, a family recipe. Tip: get your camera ready to capture some slicing action; the U.S. Tomahawk is carved tableside. Level 5, Marina Mandarin Singapore, 6 Raffles Boulevard. Tel: 6845 1118 Chef-owner of New Ubin Seafood, SM Pang’s love for beef led to the creation of the restaurant’s cult favourite - USDA Black Angus ‘Choice’ Rib-eye served with ‘Heart Attack’ Fried Rice. The 700g juicy rib-eye steak is sprinkled with its in-house secret recipe seasoning and then grilled till medium rare. It is then cut into cubes which is easy for sharing; served with caramelised onions, Idaho potato wedges and fried rice flavoured with its own beef drippings.

Newubinseafood.com. Tel: 9740 6870

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM NUDE Grill, Peach Blossoms, New Ubin Seafood

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CLOCKWISE Chung Gi Hwa Korean Restaurant, Green Door Kitchen, Eight Treasures

Since its grand opening in 1997, Chung Gi Hwa Korean Restaurant has now expanded to 16 outlets (and counting) in Indonesia. Known for their bul galbi (classic marinated short ribs), the wellmarbled U.S. short ribs are marinated with soy sauce and house-made spice and grilled over charcoal.

What’’s also popular: chadolbagi (thinly sliced beef brisket) and Chun Gi Wa Special Premium Ribeye. zomato.com/Jakarta/chung-gi-wa Located inside the bustling Mahaka Square Sport Mall, Green Door Kitchen is helmed by Juan Antono, a Le Cordon Bleu Texas alumnus. While Antono’s signature is the Texas-style charcoal grilled USDA Prime Tomahawk, the Bacon and Cheese Burger is not to be scoffed at. Think thick juicy USDA Prime beef patty with pork bacon, tomato, leafy greens and American cheddar, sandwiched between fluffy brioche buns. #B18-23, Mahaka Square Kelapa Gading, Jakarta 14240.

Tel: +62 21 2245 4231 A popular Chinese hot pot restaurant in Jakarta, Eight Treasures offers four different soup bases, from herbal chicken, cartilage (brewed for over 12 hours), Sichuan mala to chicken with African coconut soup. Swish premium ingredients such as the superior U.S. Angus Prime Short Ribs (with a perfect fat to meat ratio) in the soup to enhance the dining experience. No, 28-30, Level 4, South Gate, Plaza Indonesia, Jalan M.H. Thamrin. Tel: +62 811 9698 688

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G O U R M E T K N OW L E D G E

Gundaling Farmstead Berastagi

Whey to go

A

s a popular weekend destination, Berastagi offers a picturesque escape, just 66 kilometers south of Medan, the capital of North Sumatra. Located 1,300 metres above sea level, it is refreshingly chilly. Two volcanoes, Mount Sibayak and Mount Sinabung, which constitute Indonesia’s longest mountain range Bukit Barisan, loom over Berastagi. Its soil is rich, allowing farming and agriculture to flourish. Black and white Holstein Friesian cows graze on its green pastures, especially on the ground that belongs to Gundaling Farmstead Berastagi.

Founded in 2005, the farmstead started humbly with just 20 cows which were purposefully raised to yield fertiliser. Milk was just the secondary product. However, the cows proved to be more beneficial as milk producers and the farm decided to focus on producing high quality milk and yoghurt. “The turning point was in 2014. Fresh milk and yoghurt started to get more popular and suddenly there was a demand for both products. Our presence became known to the public and we received visitors from all over Indonesia who wanted to see our farm and buy fresh milk and yoghurt. We became a destination in Berastagi,” explains Andreas

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Kangga Lee, co-founder of Gundaling Farmstead Berastagi. Now, as the owner of 100 dairy cattle, (which are able to produce more than 2,000 litres of fresh milk daily) Lee provides employment for 60 staff.

In 2017 he decided to venture into cheesemaking.

After a course with Mazaraat Cheese, Lee started to produce a line of French and Italian cheese. At its dedicated ageing room, stacks of Provolone and Tomme wheels are maturing, while the curvaceous Caciocavallo hangs over them. He has created his own signature, the Tomme Andaliman, which infuses the semi-soft cheese with local’s tongue numbing, citrus-y pepper. “This year, we aim to expand our cheese production range, build a restaurant to showcase our farm-to-table products and hopefully, go regional since there is a huge demand in Southeast Asia for high quality artisanal cheese products,” says the Berastagi-native entrepreneur.

Lee is not alone in believing that there is a huge potential of high quality cheese products in Indonesia and Southeast Asia. Despite the fact that cheese is not a staple in Indonesian households, it has gained popularity among the country’s burgeoning middle class whose palates have become attuned to western cuisine. According

PHOTOS GUNDALING FARMSTEAD BERASTAGI, ROSALIE CHEESE AND MAZARAAT CHEESE

From Sumatra to Bali, Eve Tedja uncovers a thriving artisan cheesemaking scene in Indonesia and talks to chefs who champion locally made cheese at their restaurants.

Jamie Najmi and Nieta Pricillia showcase their Mazaraat Cheese's products

Each Gundaling Farmstead Berastagi cow can produce up to 20 litres of fresh milk a day.

Craftsmanship and unique flavour profiles are what make Rosalie Cheese's goat cheese products tick.

to Statista, a market data provider, Indonesia’s cheese market is expected to grow by 8.5 percent in the next three years. In a country with a population of 265 million people, Indonesians' buying power is not one to be taken lightly. At the moment, Bali absorbs most of the artisanal cheese products in Indonesia. However, demand for natural and unprocessed cheese is also coming from Jakarta’s gourmet and hospitality market.

The history of Indonesia’s cheesemaking can be traced back to its diverse indigenous food culture. According to Jamie Najmi of Mazaraat Cheese in Yogyakarta, the art of cheesemaking has been known in Sumatra and Sulawesi. “There’s Dadih, traditional soft cheese from buffalo milk in West Sumatra. In North Sumatra, we have Dali Ni Horbo, a clabbering ricotta-like cheese made with pineapple or papaya leaf juice. We even have our own halloumi, Dangke, from Enrekang, South Sulawesi,” says Najmi. This selftaught artisan cheesemaker grew up eating Dadih in his hometown, Padang and it sparked his interest to pursue cheesemaking in Canada and New Zealand. When he returned to Yogyakarta in 2015, he started Mazaraat Cheese with an intention to create cheese

from organically raised cows. He worked closely with an organic dairy cattle farm near Mount Merapi and receives a daily fresh milk supply of 300 litres. The limited quantity of milk prevents him to expand the production but allows him to pursue his passion in sharing, consulting and experimenting with cheese.

“By creating natural, unprocessed cheese from fresh milk, we empower local farmers and strengthen our food security. The definition of high quality cheese is the one that is made not more than 30 kilometres from its milk source and has never been frozen in its delivery. Indonesia still has a lot to catch up in regards to the quality of the milk and the process but we are getting there. With a dedication to quality, I dare say our locally produced cheese will be able to compete with imported products from Europe,” declares Najmi who produces halloumi, mozzarella, ghee and aged French cheeses such as Camembert, Tomme Merapi, blue cheese, and Brillat-Savarin.

As the awareness of prioritising locally made products increases, so too the demand for high quality natural cheese. At the moment, Indonesia already has more than 10 commercial cheesemakers.

Most of them are based in Java and Bali, with each artisan creating different styles of cheese. The market potential even brought foreign investors to build their cheesemaking enterprises, such as the case with Bali Alm and PT Gioia Cheese Indonesia. Trading also proves to be a lucrative venture, as proven by Rosalie Cheese who not only produces goat cheeses but curate local cheese products at its retail and online marketplace. Undoubtedly, this is only the exciting beginning of what is to come. Can we say cheese?

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Bali Alm's cheeses (clockwise from the top): Mountain Cheese, Fume Smoked Raclette, Ibores, Crottin de Chavignol, Rosemary Manchego, and St. Jeammie Vacherin-style cheese.

A lot has changed since Christoph Kaffanke started Bali Alm in 2012.

The Stuttgart-born ex-chef and engineer has expanded his cheese factory in Ungasan, and now produces 50 variants of French, Swiss and Italian cheeses on top of his bestselling fresh yoghurt, and has gone to two retail shops. At the moment, Bali Alm’s Raclette, Camembert or Tilsiter are supplied to several luxurious resorts in Bali and championed by the island’s top executive chefs.

One thing that doesn’t change over the years is Kaffanke’s insistence on the quality of his main ingredient: fresh milk. “We work with a dairy cattle farm in Malang, East Java. It is not possible to obtain a permit to open a dairy cattle farm with Holstein Friesian cows in Bali and we have no choice but to source our milk from Java. With the transportation risk, we also have no other option than having the milk pasteurised and homogenised in situ, prior to shipment in a refrigerator truck. That way, we minimise the risk of pathogen infection,” says Kaffanke who currently receives

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Bali Alm JJalan Bukit Bintang 18a, Ungasan, Kuta Selatan, Jimbaran, Bali Tel: +62 812 3790 3290 Web: bali-alm.com

PHOTOS IRA RODRIGUES

To brie or not to brie

three milk deliveries per week.

His culinary background plays a great deal in his cheese creation and nothing excites him more than creating customised yoghurt or cheese products like the goat cream cheese, which he exclusively produced for an ice cream shop in Seminyak.

Bali Alm supplies the island’s demand for locally produced natural artisan cheese. Lately, Kaffenke is drawn to the complexity of cheese ageing process. “I have a few wheels of German-style Mountain cheese that are aged for six months. As soon as the new factory construction is completed, I will make a 50 kilogram statement cheese wheel for the pleasure of it. That’s what I love about cheesemaking. Even after all these years, I can always find a new way to make cheese,” says Kaffanke cheerfully.

Grater plans ahead Ilios Maggi Andreadakis has it good. The ItalianGreek professional worked in the finance industry and spent his time jet-setting between Shanghai and Milan. However, his mother lives in Bali and he decided to move his family there while working remotely and taking care of the operations in Bangalore and Shanghai offices. Then, he came across an opportunity of investing in a cheese factory in Bali. “From my understanding and past experience in managing portfolios, food companies are not really affected by economic crisis. So, when I had the opportunity to invest in Gioia Cheese, I thought, why not?” says Andreadakis.

Although he had the factory machinery, he had no expertise in cheesemaking. Andreadakis took over the company in 2016 and picked up a course in cheesemaking with Carlo Piccoli in the respected Academia Internazionale Dell’Arte Casearia, San Pietro di Felleto, Italy. An awardwinning master cheese maker, Piccoli is the fourth-generation cheesemaker from Perenzin Gioia Cheese's products (clockwise from the top): Latteria, a cheesemaking company and institution Saporito, platter of Smoked Scamorza, Tomi Black and a big wheel of Scamorza; Burrata, Caciotta, established in 1898. Sourcing fresh milk from Mozzarella, Ricotta, and Bocconcini.

Malang and sea salt from Amed, Andreadakis managed to create a wide repertoire of flavours.

Fresh cheeses or pasta filata such as mozzarella, bocconcini, stracciatella, burrata and halloumi are produced daily in Gioia Cheese’s factory in North Kuta. In the ageing room sits plump yellow wheels of the aged varieties such as Asiatico (Gioia Cheese’s own Asiago), Scamorza, Saporito, Ricotta, and Andreadakis’s pride and joy - the Drunken Cheese or Ubriaco. Made from locally produced red wine, the cheese is ready to be savoured in one month's time.

“We have a lot of support from Bali-based chefs, restaurants and hotels. They are dedicated in sourcing locally made products and supporting local food producers. In turn, their efforts inspired me to keep growing Gioia Cheese. In a couple of months, I will open Kilometer Zero in Canggu. It is a shop dedicated to locally made products, be it cheese, ham or beauty products. It will be proof that with a little bit of passion and work, we can make anything here,” says Andreadakis.

“ We have a lot of support from Balibased chefs, restaurants and hotels.

They are dedicated in sourcing locally made products and supporting local food producers. In turn, their efforts inspired me to keep growing Gioia Cheese. In a couple of months, I will open Kilometer Zero in Canggu. It is a shop dedicated to locally made products, be it cheese, ham or beauty products. It will be proof that with a little bit of passion and work, we can make anything here.”

- Ilios Maggi Andreadakis

PT Gioia Cheese Indonesia Jalan Muding Batu Sangian XI, Kerobokan Kaya, Kuta Utara, Bali Tel: +62 361 9074041 Web: gioiacheese.com

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“ I have learned that it is not sustainable to just rely on one market and it is important to work as a collective with other local cheesemakers in Indonesia. In our website and Jakarta shop, we curate natural and locally made cheese from Malang, Yogyakarta, Boyolali, and Berastagi.”

It gets feta

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Milton and even Cheesy Goat Grissini to Denpasar, Bali. It is also more convenient because she relies on receiving goat milk delivery from Malang, East Java.

Stamping its own style to the products by adding coconut ash and black pepper, Rosalie Cheese is also developing a line of aged goat cheese for the connoisseurs. Linggih ingeniously embraces both local and Bali’s market which mostly rely on tourism through retail, wholesale and online marketplace.

“I have learned that it is not sustainable to just rely on one market and it is important to work as a collective with other local cheesemakers in Indonesia. On our website and in our Jakarta shop, we curate natural and locally made cheese from Malang, Yogyakarta, Boyolali, and Berastagi,” says Linggih who is currently in the midst of expanding her factory.

Rosalie Cheese Jl. Benda Raya No. 8B1, Kemang, Jakarta Tel: +62 21 7814801 / +62 813 864 31031 Web: rosaliecheese.co.id

PHOTOS IRA RODRIGUES

Goat cheese has a reputation of being pungent, but it boils down to how it is produced; goat cheese can be savoury, lightly sweet, nutty or mild. As Ayu Utami Linggih has learned over the years, goat cheese is still underrated but quietly garnering popularity as an alternative to cow milk cheese. It is suitable for those who are lactose intolerant and contains a good source of protein, healthy fats, vitamins, minerals and probiotics.

Growing up in a household that loves cheese, Linggih decided to pursue her passion to study food science in Brisbane.

“There, I learned the art of cheesemaking and decided that’s what I wanted to do. I went back to Indonesia to start my own cheesemaking business because I thought there’s a market demand and there’s an access to fresh milk,” says Linggih who started Rosalie Cheese in 2013. Naturally, nothing was easy. She had to customise most of the necessary equipment because cheesemaking equipment is alien to Indonesia and looked for a reliable goat farm, on top of producing, marketing and selling the products. Her biggest hurdle was to get the home industry license in Jakarta which was impossible. Luckily, Bali proves to be a safe haven and Linggih moved the production of her Chevre,

Rosalie Cheese's products (clockwise from the top): Cheesy Goat Grissini, Chevre, Black Pepper, Black & White, and Milton.

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G O U R M E T K N OW L E D G E

Dough it like a pro PHOTOGRAPHY EDDIE TEO STYLING DARRYL PESTANA

Dive deep into the world of breads with Destin Tay and Victoria Lim as they find out more about the art of baking and what makes a good loaf tick.

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Bread makes the world go round

From baguettes in France to pitas in Mediterranean countries, bread has been a staple food around the world for centuries. Breads are distinct in their ingredients - some are made with corn and others with wheat - as well as their shapes - bakers poke holes in Italian focaccia, giving it dimples, and French baguettes are often scored at an angle. Here’s what bread culture looks like in three countries.

Japan The first bread known to be made by a Japanese for Japanese was prepared by Egawa Hidetatsu in 1842. In charge of the Tokugawa Shogunate’s coastal defenses around Tokyo Bay, Hidetatsu baked hard bread as provisions for soldiers—and also constructed an early reverberatory furnace in Izunokuni, Shizuoka Prefecture, which is now a World Heritage Site.

Bread became more commonly eaten as Japan underwent rapid industrialisation during the Meiji Period (1868-1912), but it still didn’t catch on among the locals. However, in 1874, Yasubei Kimura created anpan, buns stuffed with red bean paste called an or anko which was well-received. The continual success of Kimura’s bakery, Kimuraya Sohonten — which still stands today — is due to anpan’s popularity. A boom in bread confections followed.

Since then, bread has increasingly been a part of the Japanese national diet, enjoying particular popularity in the Kansai area.

You can find at least one bread shop, or panya-san, in any big train station across the country, and you’ll even find them tucked into back alleys and the corners of sleepy towns.

Yakisoba pan: it’s literally just yakisoba (fried soba) stuffed in a bun, Yakisoba isn’t the first kind of unlikely ingredient paired with bread, and it certainly won’t be the last. You can also find menchi katsu pan (minced meat cutlet bread) and korokke pan (croquette bread), not to mention the classic katsu sando (cutlet sandwich).

Add Japanese curry, which is sweeter and milder than the Indian or Nepalese varieties, and you have a fried curry bun, thus creating a new taste sensation and earning a place in Japan’s bread pantheon.

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Baguette

Bolillo

France Breads are such an important part of the French culture that during the French Revolution, the average Frenchman was reported to have eaten three pounds of bread a day. If bread supplies ran short, or the quality was bad, riots resulted. To avoid the possibility of another revolution, the state has since ensured that modern Parisians have no lack of a fresh baguette; city bakers now have strictly regulated summer holidays and are forbidden to leave the capital en masse.

Baguette: A long thin, white loaf with a golden crust. It is raised with commerical yeast and has large holes and an open crumb. This light style of bread is best eaten the day it is bought. Ficelle: Using the same ingredients and methods as the baguette, Ficelle is even thinner and sometimes shorter. Pain de campagne: Translating as “country bread”, this is a large round or rectangular bread usually made with a mixture of white flour and wholemeal or rye flour. It can be made with natural leavening or commerical yeast. Pain au levain: Made with natural leavening, this is rustic and flavoursome sourdough. Fougasse: Typically associated with Provence, this flatbread is France’s version of the focaccia. The dough is often slashed so it looks like an ear of wheat, and is usually dotted with ingredients such as olives or cheese. Pain aux noix: Studded with one of France’s favourite ingredients - walnuts - this bread is delicious with cheese.

Mexico When 16th century Spanish conquistadors brought wheat to the New World during their conquest of the Aztec empire, it was to create the sacramental bread necessary for Holy Communion.

Both Iberians and indigenous people found the taste of the grains initially disagreeable until bakers began improving their techniques and enhancing breads with native ingredients like maiz (corn), piloncillo (unrefined brown sugar), and chocolate. During the

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nineteenth century, French nationals began immigrating to Mexico, bringing with them more European baking techniques and recipes.

The union of all these cultures resulted in baked goods that have become a huge part of Mexican tradition and everyday life.

By the 19th century, hundreds of pastelerías (pastry shops) and panaderías (bakeries) had opened across Mexico. Today, street vendors can still be seen selling bread from baskets and off bikes, and panaderías buzz with regulars purchasing savoury rolls and pan dulce (sweet yeasted breads) which come in countless shapes, sizes and flavours. Historically, these breads are dipped into coffee or drinking chocolate and enjoyed as breakfast or a late afternoon meal called merienda; the latter is sometimes enjoyed in lieu of a larger dinner.

For everyday eating, the following three types of rolls are the ones you’ll find throughout Mexico. Bolillo: an eight-inch, white roll is crusty on the outside and boasts soft insides. It’s split and topped with refried beans, melted cheese, and salsa to make molletes, and it’s often used to make tortas or sandwiches. For sauces such as mole poblano which requires a thickener, stale bread is often called for in the recipe, and bolillos have a neutral flavour that makes them ideal for this purpose. “You can soak a bolillo in an atole or fill it with a hot tamale. It doesn’t need to be grilled because it’s crispy when it comes out of the oven,” says Tamara Chavez Lopez, head chef of TONO Cevicheria. Cemita: A specialty of Puebla now found across Mexico, this five-inch, round, egg-washed bread topped with sesame seeds is similar to brioche, only drier. In most parts of the country it is just another bread, but in the city of its origin the fluffy roll is beloved as the foundation for the cemita poblana, a sandwich of meat and cheese topped with avocado, onions, chipotles en escabeche, and the pungent herb called papalo. Telera: Popular in Mexico City, the crust of this ridged, seven-inch roll is softer than that of bolillos, but inside it’s firm and dense. A sturdy vessel, it’s the bread of choice for making tortas.

Freshthe from oven

PHOTOGRAPHY EDDIE TEO STYLING DARRYL PESTANA

Say hello to gorgeous looking breads with baker-owner of Nick Vina Artisan Bakery, Nick Chua’s tips on shaping, braiding and rolling dough.

Rolling a French baguette Working with one piece at a time, flatten the dough slightly then fold it nearly (but not quite) in half, sealing the edges with the heel of your hand. Turn the dough around, and repeat: fold, then flatten.

Repeat this whole process until the dough has elongated. With the seam side down, cup your fingers and gently roll the dough into a 16-inch log. Your goal is to achieve a 15-inch baguette, so 16 inches allows for the slight shrinkage once you’re done rolling. Taper each end of the log slightly to create the baguette’s typical “pointy” end.

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Shaping a boule It’s important to prevent your hands from sticking excessively to the dough as you’re shaping. This can incorporate unwanted raw flour into the dough. If your hands do begin to stick, slide them along the bench (work surface) to gather a dusting of flour.

Just as the amount of flour on your hands is important, so too is the flour on the bench. The key to shaping a boule, using each of the following methods, is to rely on the bench to slightly tug on the dough as you drag it across. If you use too much flour the dough will slide too easily, and will not be able to develop sufficient tension.

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Braiding a challah Roll each piece into a long rope, about 20 inches. If the dough starts to shrink back as you roll, cover it and let it rest again for about 10 minutes, then resume rolling. The short rest gives the gluten a chance to relax. Pinch together the ends of the strands so that all six strands are joined at one end. Mentally number the positions of these strands 1 to 6, going left to right. The outermost strand on the left is #1; the outermost strand on the right is #6.

While the individual strands will move, this numbering of positions will remain the same: from left to right, the order of the strands is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

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Tip Change your scoring blade often!

A sharp razor glides through properly fermented dough in a swift, satisfying cut.

Scoring As a general rule, it’s best to have a speedy, sure hand when scoring. Hold the blade lightly between your fingers but in a firmly locked hand, and move with a single, smooth cutting motion. If the blade drags against the dough, don’t fret.

Continue with the cut and things will typically smooth out in the bake. If the blade drags excessively, this can be a sign that the dough has most likely been proofed for too long and has started to lose structural integrity. Proof the dough for less time, or at a lower temperature, next time.

Warm dough can be slightly more challenging to score than cold dough proofed in the fridge. The latter has a tight, firm surface that holds its shape as the sharp blade cuts through.

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to the Risechallenge

ou tasted a slice of amazing sourdough from a renowned bakery. You even bought their cookbook. You tried following all the steps. And yet, somehow your efforts fall flat. Don’t toss the dough out yet. Here’s how to troubleshoot and improve your skills to perfect your next batch.

and stretch it with your fingers to form a square. If it doesn’t break, it’s done. Careful not to overwork your dough either; the network will be too strong and will result in a dense, tough crumb.

Proofing

Unlike cooking, where ingredients can sometimes be measured by the naked eye, baking is an exact science. Each component comes together in specific ways, so it’s crucial to measure everything by the exact weight.

Measuring spoons and cups differ depending on the country. For instance, in the U.K., a cup of water is 250ml, while a U.S. cup of water is 240ml. It may seem miniscule, but with enough margin of error from all the ingredients, the ratio of the dough will be off the mark. Check which exact measurements your recipes call for, or better yet, measure everything in grams.

Without this important step, we would all be eating pitas and flatbreads. As the yeast feeds on the starch in the dough, carbon dioxide is produced, which results in the dough expanding as air bubbles form. Gluten is important as well; the strands maintain a network over the bubbles, resulting in an airy and light crumb.

Proofing can be tricky in Singapore, as our ambient temperature can be too high. The most ideal temperature range would be 24 to 26°C; too low and the process may take too long, too high and the dough may become too sour or even be unable to hold its structure. If your dough is rising too fast based on what the recipe states, don’t be afraid to pop it in the fridge for a few minutes to get the temperature just right.

Gluten Structure

Oven Spring

With the advent of fad diets and rise of food intolerance, gluten is often painted as the bad protein that must be avoided at all costs. When it comes to breadmaking, however, it’s your best friend. The main protein in wheat flour blends with water to create gluten strands, which unravels to form a strong network when kneading – think of gluten as the equivalent of scaffolding in a building.

When using a stand mixer, never set the speed on high. Sure, your ingredients get mixed into the dough faster, but a high speed tends to rip the gluten strands apart, preventing the network from developing. To test if enough gluten has developed, do the windowpane test. Grab a small ball of dough

A crucial yet often overlooked part of the baking process, oven spring occurs within the first 10 minutes of being in the oven. The yeast lets out one last hurrah before it dies, resulting in one final rising within the bread. Even if the dough looks doubled and nicely risen, a lack of a good oven spring can still result in a flat final product.

For the best results, steam is essential. As a better conductor of heat than dough, it creates a more consistent result by ensuring the centre of the dough is sufficiently heated for maximum oven spring. Use a Dutch oven for your bread (it helps to trap natural steam created during baking), or throw a couple of ice cubes in a tray on the bottommost rack.

Measurements

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Building blocks PHOTOGRAPHY EDDIE TEO STYLING DARRYL PESTANA

The best food is often produced by using the best ingredients.

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Beurre d’Isigny This Charentes-Poitou protected designation of origin (PDO) butter is famous for its striking buttercup hue, thanks to high levels of betacarotenoids. It boasts a naturally smooth texture and superior melting texture.

Available at Huber’s Butchery, Redmart and honestbee.

Lescure Hailing from the same PDO as Beurre d’Isigny, the region’s ideal climate makes it one of the top producers of grains in France.

Better fed cows result in a butter with a richer mouth feel and 82% butterfat. Available at Little Farms and Bakerz@work Academy.

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Unbleached Flour The denser structure of naturally bleached flour helps in maintaining the integrity of artisanal breads. Additionally, less processing equates to higher nutritional content and lower trace chemicals. Available at Cold Storage, Phoon Huat and Redmart.

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Echiré Long upheld as the butter of choice for French pâtissiers, the Deux-Sevres PDO product contains 84% butterfat and has a distinct hazelnut taste.

Its higher plasticity makes it ideal for laminated dough.

Available at Huber’s Butchery, Isetan, Redmart and Delicia.

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T65 Flour The higher protein content (the 65 represents mineral content) makes this the perfect flour for baguettes and artisanal breads. They stand up better during the fermentation process, and leads to bread with an open crumb and crisp crust. Available at Bakerz@work Academy and Creative Culinaire.

Organic Wholegrain Rustic loaves are made better using wholegrains, adding nutritional content and can be mixed with other grain types, such as spelt, amaranth or millet, for more complex flavours.

Available at Cold Storage, Phoon Huat and Redmart.

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Mother

dough’s best

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n the world of breadmaking, you’ve probably heard of the term mother yeast or preferment. The famed Boudin in San Francisco prides itself in using the same mother dough for over 150 years. Pre-ferments form the base of flavour for most artisanal breads, but it boils down to one simple component – the yeast.

Creating your own mother yeast isn’t rocket science. As a living organism, the only thing you need to do to keep mother yeast alive is to periodically feed it with flour and water.

The longer this process goes on and the yeast is properly maintained, the better the flavour gets developed. While all pre-ferments are essentially the same, they do have variations and are used for different kinds of breads.

Biga Roughly two parts flour to one part water, this Italian style of pre-ferment is perfect for imparting a light, open texture in bread.

Ciabatta is the best example of what this preferment does, adding a complex, nutty flavour.

Levain The base of all sourdoughs; these pre-ferments are often kept alive over extensive periods of time, providing the highest level of fermentation and development of flavour. Due to the long process, these starters are often affected by their surroundings, and no two levains will ever have the exact flavour profiles.

Poolish

Rye and wheat sourdough starter

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A wetter variation featuring equal parts water and flour, poolish or pouliche helps in the extensibility of the dough – which makes it well-suited for its use in baguettes and batards.

It further helps by breaking down proteins in the dough, allowing for more Maillard reactions and crust browning.

A baker’s A best friend

PHOTOGRAPHY EDDIE TEO

Fluctuating temperatures and unpredictable hot spots can make ovens a beast to tame.

The V-ZUG Combair SLP, however, listens to you.

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trip to the oven is usually the final step before one is rewarded with a freshly baked treat. More often than not, home ovens usually have a factor of uncertainty with them; cold and hot spots, temperature consistency and the like. The ovens from Swiss luxury appliance brand, V-ZUG, go the other way, bringing a whole suite of functions to ensure all your baked goods come out perfect and golden brown.

We went down to V-ZUG’s ZUGORAMA at Scotts Square to put the Swiss ovens to the test, and we were duly impressed. Right off the bat, the functions were extensive, with everything from in-built recipe guides and varying heating modes. Two functions of the V-ZUG Combair SLP clearly stood out – the proofing and BakeOmatic.

Both features remove the guesswork from baking; the proofing function helps to maintain the optimum temperature for yeast activity, regardless of our mercurial weather; the BakeOmatic is a baking function which measures the weight of the dough in the oven, and automatically sets the time and temperature to achieve a uniform colour, decided by the user.

The end result of beautifully browned crusts and pillowy insides speaks for itself. Knowing that future loaves will keep this consistency, thanks to V-ZUG’s myriad features, will definitely give bakers continued confidence to bust out freshly baked loaves.

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r Butteup me 1

2 A flavour bomb, Le Binchotan’s Matcha-Seaweed butter is a combination of refined aroma and flavour from the matcha powder, and the umami from the seaweed. The secret lies in the seaweed (salted kombu, wakame and nori). The result?

A savoury hint hits the palate before ending off with a lingering hint of bitterness. 115 Amoy Street. Tel: 6224 1045

A firm beliver of the waste not, want not philosophy, Nouri uses its leftover basil, from its oil making process, to churn out a beautiful greenhued basil butter. Light on the palate, the Basil Butter is perfect with any sourdough.

72 Amoy Street. Tel: 6221 4148

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Plain ol’ salted French butter is always good, but there’s always room to savour these scrumptious flavours.

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PHOTOGRAPHY EDDIE TEO STYLING DARRYL PESTANA

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4 Inspired by the beer from their own brewery. LeVeL33’s Roasted Yeast butter yields a rich fragrant and nutty flavour. Wonder how they got the buttery feel? They use European butter, made from pure fresh cream, which contains 82% of butterfat. #33-01, 8 Marina Boulevard.

Tel: 6834 3133

One of our favourite butter of the lot, the Smoked Beef Fat butter from Maggie Joan’s is sinful and luxurious. The fat trimmings of O’Connor beef are first rendered then smoked in INKA charcoal oven with hickory wood chips before whipping in artisanal French butter. It is then finished with a sprinkle of salt and fresh thyme. 110 Amoy Street.

Tel: 6221 5564

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G O U R M E T K N OW L E D G E

Make brewtiful latte art

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ove over hearts, swans and leaves. It’s time for a new generation of latte art to embellish your cuppa. Feast your eyes on these adorable creations – from poppy rainbow latte art to 3D animals. Dazzling Cafe’s creation of the rainbow latte art is a vanilla latte made with condensed milk. A splash of hazelnut syrup makes it look like a rainbow. Chockfull of Beans, an unassuming café along Changi Village Road, creates the cutest 3D latte art works.

From bulging Snorlaxes lounging on your ice to dainty Hello Kitties peeking out of your mug, the matchless creations produced from the hands of the baristas spells kawaii to the max. The Japanese and Korean influenced Brew Maison is a family-style café replete with pastel hues and tasteful white furniture. Their latte art creations, which range from amiable lambs to blissful bunnies, will add a touch of whimsy to your Taro Latte or Black Sesame Latte.

IT’S NOT TOO LATTE TO LEARN » BETTER BARISTA COFFEE ACADEMY An educational social enterprise that offers, internallycertified barista training classes. You can expect to learn the 101s of coffee plus practical skills like how to draw the perfect latte art. Starts from $360/person for a six-hour course.

Tel: 6383 5030

» PAPA PALHETA For those with a foundation in proper espresso extraction and milk texturing, the course conducted by this independent coffee boutique will arm you will the skills you need to craft a spectacular latte art. Starts from $136 for a two-hour course.

Tel: 6299 4321

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What's brewing in Singapore’s coffee scene

Get on the express(o) bandwagon as we check out the latest latte art trend and the single origin coffees to drink now.

By Victoria Lim

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• Common Man Coffee Roasters Acacia Hills Estate is located in Ngorongoro, one of three main coffee regions of Northern Tanzania.

Ngorongoro is a unique coffee growing landscape with varying altitude, from as low as 1,000 to 2,000 metres above sea level and up. The farm itself is the highest altitude farm in the region and they have planted the Geisha and Pacamara varieties at the very top at 1, 900 metres, while the lower altitudes are dedicated to Bourbon and Kent varieties. The flavour notes: butterscotch and blood orange.

• Cowpresso Coffee The soils of Mount Elgon in the Bugisu sub-region in Eastern Uganda are enriched with heavy rainfall, which makes this lot rich in resources with room for growth. The coffee flavour exudes fruitiness, oranges, sweet grapes with hint of woodsiness and a balanced citrus acidity.

Country: Uganda Producer: The Captian’s Coffee Altitude: 1,400 - 2,200m Varietal: Robusta

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ingle origin coffee is the kind of buzz-phrase that will make java snobs’ ears perk up, and with good reason. It refers to coffee that comes from a specific region, whether it’s a collective of farms, a particular farm or even a single field. We spoke to some of the city best java joints to find out where they source their single origin coffee beans.

• Hook Coffee Honduras coffee is known for its strong and robust profile as proven by the beans grown on this small farm in Finca La Florida. You get an aromatic dark Italian roast with hints of burnt caramel and sweet dates for a satisfyingly bittersweet finish.

Country: Honduras Producer: Rufino Dominguez López Altitude: 1,600m Varietal: Catuai

• The Tiny Roasters This Bourbon cultivar bean is grown on the Los Pirineos farm. The cold climate and fertile growing conditions in this areamake uo for the medium altitudes. The cold nights slow the maturation and leads to a fragrant flavour profile. The beans are dried carefully on raised beds for about 20 days, to achieve notes of tropical fruit, organic apple cider and plums.

Country: El Salvador Producer: Gilberto Baraona Altitude: 1,450m Varietal: Bourbon

Country: Tanzania Producer: Acacia Hills Altitude: 1,600 – 1,900m Varietal: Bourbon

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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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MOUNTAIN MAGIC Conserved national parks and ocean vistas envelop Banyan Tree Krabi in its secluded environs, offering exclusive accessibility for luxury seekers.

By Esther Faith Lew

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his 4ha property is surrounded by national parks on three sides, with lush towering mountains to the north and east, while the seaside view to the west commands a vista of jutting limestone peaks rising up from the ocean. Located at Tubhkaek Beach, some 20km from the well-visited Ao Nang and Railey beaches, the 72-key resort offers tranquil luxury in the midst of a natural environ that is said to resemble a slithering dragon, or naga, with its undulating mountain range. Banyan Tree Krabi has adopted the naga as its symbol and it inspires the design elements of the resort from the wavy serpentine patterns in the villas to the flow of spaces.

In building the property, Architrave ensured that the environment’s natural ecosystem was preserved and that sustainable and locally sourced materials were used to help the communities. “The design inspiration is also drawn from Thai architectural style. Local materials include the Thai clay-tile roofs and most interior decorations include the use of local rocks. We hired local communities to build the hotel and incorporate brick walls, concrete and clay-tiles, which are low-maintenance yet sustainable materials,” elaborates Dharmali Kusumadi, Senior Vice President, Projects & Business Development and Managing Director of Architrave for Banyan Tree Holdings.

He added that highlights of green features include natural preservation of existing aged-old trees, a natural stream, and existing rock features. Also, the lush forest-surrounded design

setting at Saffron restaurant; scenic sea views at the Beach Bar which features ambient lights and elegant wood features; and a tranquil Spa Rainforest that looks out to a garden with preserved greenery of trees and the natural stream.

Water is one of the recurring themes at the resort, providing a calming lullaby with the gentle gurgle of waterfalls and fountains.

When guests walk through the Buddhist temple-like entrance, they will be greeted by a sublime waterfall cascading through a circular sinkhole into the running stream below, set against the backdrop of the emerald sea and karsts. Beneath the sinkhole in the open-air lobby is a serene spot known provisionally as “The Grotto” where the stream is flanked by greenery and flora as it trickles over rock gardens into small ponds.

One of the dining highlights is Saffron restaurant, accessible via cable car where guests will enjoy a grand view of the beach and the karst marine park from the top of a hill. It promises to provide magical Instagram moments with its hanging “Bird’s Nests”, private tables perched among the treetops.

The resort offers six categories: Deluxe Pool Suite; Premium Ocean Pool Suite; Family Ocean Pool Suite: 10 Beachfront Villas; two Family Beachfront Villas; and one Presidential Villa, which has no less than seven bedrooms and covers 1,240 sqm, including multiple verandas and balconies, as well as three pools.

Banyan Tree Krabi is due to open in the fourth quarter of 2020.

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THE COMMUNAL SPIRIT Andaz Bali invites guests for an experiential stay in a village where nature and tradition provide a thoughtful landscape for contemplation.

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sprawling Balinese village beckons in the heart of Sanur, resplendent with landscaped gardens and the lush tree canopies of the jungle providing shade along the winding pathways that connect each separate courtyard, pavilion and villa.

The new Andaz Bali reflects the atmosphere and spirit of a Sanurian kampung, a holistic design that harmonises architectural finesse with nature.

“Like in many of the Balinese villages, Andaz is organised around a village square concept. The village square is where most of the resort activities and events will happen and it is surrounded by the lobby, all-day dining restaurant, bar, meeting rooms and even guest rooms above some of these buildings. Guests arriving at the lobby are greeted by a sunken lawn and a bale kul kul (drum pavilion), where local musicians will play traditional music at different times of the day,” says Martin Palleros, founder of Tierra Design.

To facilitate the flow of outdoor activities, the pool area is structured to allow for panoramic views of the sea, areas for socialising and intimate gatherings, with nearby amenities such as a beachside restaurant, an ocean bar, beach pavilions, decked platforms and a beach volleyball section to create nooks of activity within the expansive space.

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The landscaping and setting of Andaz were critical factors in creating the desired village experience for guests, and Tierra Design worked around the existing trees on the grounds to enhance the feeling of natural surrounds. Water elements are also featured throughout the village in various forms; cascading, pooled, rippled or reflective, while water gardens, private pools and spas create a thematic flow that links to the pools and the Sanur sea.

Guests will be led along stone and screening walls, pathways and buildings referencing traditional Balinese elements that go through varied landscapes such as courtyards, water gardens, pavilions, pools and gardens to individually crafted ‘garden squares’ each reflecting a different aspect of the Balinese landscape to engage their senses.

A careful juxtaposition of materials have been used in the development to create a sense of harmony between architecture and nature and to reflect the local culture. “The materials used were sourced from Indonesia;

for example, the red brick from Bali as well as a lot of the stone sculptures. I personally picked the statues from around the island and some are commissioned to Ubud artist Wayan Witana,” says Palleros.

“The guest buildings have been developed to reflect variations in accommodation requirements and amenities and to provide the project with a variety of scales. This comprises three-level guest wings and two-level guest buildings as well as presidential, beach and garden villas. All the buildings draw from the rich tradition of the Indonesian vernacular and include a modern sensibility,” shares Palleros.

He elaborated that the guest wings provide an impressive backdrop of bamboo-filtered screens upon entering the hotel, whilst providing guests with sea and garden views from their rooms. The guest buildings with groupings of guest rooms have been sited around courtyards and gardens, reflecting a village-scale set within individual garden settings. The villas, on the other hand, are sited as a precinct to create a more private and residential atmosphere within the hotel development.

The 149-key resort includes 18 garden villas and four beach villas, with a beachfront restaurant providing nightlife entertainment for guests. Located within the village square is a variety of dining options; Asian cuisine at Wok Wok, international dishes at Blue Oven, steak and grills at Fire Fox and desserts at Deli & Bakery.

Andaz Bali is due to open early 2021.

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The Cabinet of Curiosities features an oddball mix of knickknacks, which includes Bowie-printed dinner plates, old medical prescriptions and film cameras.

CURIOUSER AND CURIOUSER The building where Ovolo Inchcolm now stands used to be the symbol of Queensland’s foray into specialist medicine. Formerly the doctor’s surgery of Dr. John Thomson, it now offers a whimsical blend of antiquity and modernity in Brisbane.

By Jessica Chan

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tanding before the staid façade of Ovolo Inchcolm, you’d hardly expect the beguiling interiors of floral murals, bold artworks and Art Deco-inspired terrazzo that’ll make the eccentric Alice (of Lewis Carroll’s famed novel) feel right at home.

Ironically, its peculiar history as a medical practice for surgeon and founder of Australia’s St John Ambulance, Dr. John Thomson, in the twenties, not to mention its location in Wickham Terrace, Brisbane’s perennial precinct for private medical specialists since the interwar period, was what inspired this study in contrasts.

Hassell Studio’s design lead Shelley Gabriel, Ovolo Hotels’ art curator Lisa Fehily and stylist Anna Roberts formed the dream team that undertook the massive refurbishment of the 50-room boutique

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The interiors plays on the concept of new versus old by juxtaposing contemporary furnishings against the building’s original silky panels.

hotel in a short span of nine months (six for concept design, and three for construction). “Given the interesting backstory, it was imperative that we brought the property to life in a way that played on its existing charm and heritage,” explained Gabriel.

The trio was also mindful not to alter the Hong Kong-based group’s signature of effortless living in the many lavish furnishings and modern accoutrements, include Alexa (Amazon’s voiceactivated virtual assistant), throughout the hotel. “We’ve gone above and beyond to ensure that every detail caters to the guests’ experience,” enthuses Girish Jhunjhnuwala, chief executive officer of Ovolo Hotels. And, if their other award-winning properties down south – Ovolo 1888 Darling Harbour and Ovolo Laneways – have proven anything, it’d be that they’ve gotten the killer design combination of new versus old down pat.

While the restaurant, Salon de Co, follows a similar design, it emulates the convival vibes of a Parisian salon.

Famed set decorator Kerrie Brown was commissioned to design the many floral murals, upholsteries and staff uniforms to complete the Ovolo Inchcolm’s otherworldly concept.

The rooms employ a lighter ambience while still interplaying new and old elements to intrigue guests.

Through the looking glass What sets the otherworldly tone of the hotel is none other than how the seemingly incongruous elements come together to great results.

The numerous murals, upholsteries as well as staff uniforms are created in close collaboration with Academy Award-nominated set decorator Kerrie Brown. Most prominent is the moody amalgamation of rich florals in her You Crack Me Up design on the ground floor. It perfectly complements what is, perhaps, the most outré element of the property, Roberts’ oddball mix of knick-knacks she had christened “The Cabinet of Curiosities”. Located in the foyer, it’s primed to give guests an inkling of the playful approach Ovolo Inchcolm has taken to celebrate the site’s heritage. Bowieprinted dinner plates, felt Lamingtons, aluminium flower sculptures and, even old medical prescriptions from local physicians populate it. Gabriel has also left many of the building’s existing components

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Each room is unique, from its furnishings to the contemporary artworks specially curated by Ovolo Hotels’ art curator, Lisa Fehily.

Artists featured include Jose Romussi (pictured here).

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Towering shelves of oddities, such as books, sculptures and a singular bowling pin, can be found in Salon de Co.

behind. The silky panels aside, nothing celebrates its history more than the original Otis Elevator that sits in the heart of the hotel. Shipped in from New York back in 1928, it’s been restored with a new motor for another generation of use.

Yet, the rooms stand distinct with a lighter ambience, dressed in white walls and sporting a cleaner, contemporary look. High-tech additions, including electric blinds, in-room iPad and Alexa that’s ever ready to play guests’ favourite tunes on demand (and more), join Fehily’s curated range of exuberant, avant-garde artworks. Think modern artists, such as Jose Romussi, Mr. Brainwash and Neon Pear, plus photographybased oeuvres from Enrique Rottenberg. “The artworks, both experimental and aspirational, exude a freedom of expression and artistic passion. There are pieces that tell it exactly how it is and those from which guests will take away their own meaning,” says Fehily.

One subtle detail links the rooms to the public spaces; the aforementioned interplay between new and old. Roberts’ expert use of bespoke furnishing in bold colours may downplay the Georgian elements but does not take away from it. Instead, it’s the lush colour scheme that intrinsically draws guests back to the darker mood downstairs, which celebrates the building’s style, albeit with an Ovolo touch. Likewise, the unique floor plan of each room quietly hints at their former function in the surgeon’s practice. Room 103 was the waiting and examination room, while its split-level loft was actually an extension during its first renovation (date unknown). The latter, surprisingly, played into the team’s cards, and offers floor-to-ceiling views of Brisbane’s skyline.

Its restaurant, Salon de Co, is no different. Defined similarly by dark walls, parquetry floors and towering shelves teeming with books and oddities, it emulates a Parisian salon that’ll make even Gertrude Stein proud. The accompanying bar is brimming with artisan spirits and wines for cocktails that are inspired by the social and artistic cultures from the twenties, thirties and forties. The dishes, however, are modern Australian, courtesy of chef Andy Ashby (who trained under Peter Gilmore and Nelly Robinson). You’ve got Maremma free-range duck with fennel jam, Coffin Bay oysters topped with pomelo and yuzu, plus wattleseed (edible seeds from Australian acacia) in a chocolate lamington for dessert.

Calling Ovolo Inchcolm intriguing is an understatement.

It beckons travellers to seek respite and, at the same time, guide them on a different sort of adventure in the city. No longer is it an otherwise forgotten relic of Brisbane’s history, but an enthralling destination putting Wickham Terrace on any frequent flyer’s agenda.

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C H E F T R AV E L O G U E

ON THE EDGE. AROUND THE WORLD

Nick Liberato travels across vast continents to help struggling restaurateurs in the Netflix series Restaurants on the Edge.

By Esther Faith Lew

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ick Liberato’s affinity with food began in his childhood days while growing up with his family in South Philadelphia.

From working at local food stands in the Italian Market to starting his own catering business and having celebrities as clients, Liberato’s culinary journey has been nurtured by healthy doses of passion and determination that saw him developing the skills and experience needed in the restaurant business.

From front of house and the kitchen to back-end responsibilities, Liberato is a restaurateur who walks the talk in every sense of the word. His first restaurant acquisition was The Venice Whaler in California, where he demonstrated sharp business acumen in turning it into a venue that generates multimillion dollars in sales.

This was followed by The Pier House where he led the charge as executive chef, serving up a seafood-inspired menu prepared with a modern twist.

His street creds are due largely to Michelin-starred chef and restaurateur David Myers who taught him the ropes. Today, Liberato dances across the many tightropes of the restaurant business and travels the world wearing the hats of chef, cocktail mixologist, restaurateur and producer in his recent stint in Restaurants on the Edge.

Liberato shares his thoughts and experiences with epicure:

Nick Liberato with Karin Bohn and Dennis Prescott in Slovenia.

Tell us about your top 3 most memorable travel experiences.

Traveling to Italy in 2012 for four months to live in each region and cooking my way through the entire country! I enjoyed wild boar hunts, wine making, truffle hunting and eating at the best palaces in Italy.

In 2019, I travelled to Slovenia for one of the episodes on Restaurants on the Edge. Although this country was never a place I thought I would go to, it turned out to be one of the most amazing countries to travel through. I drove all throughout the country going to vineyards, locals homes, mountains, beaches and the city of Ljubljana. The food and culture were not to be forgotten, but the most memorable part of the experience was the people.

One place I have been going to for years is the Osa Peninsula in the very southern part of Costa Rica. It’s like the garden of Eden of Central America. The jungles fall over black sand beaches that are lined with blue water and perfect waves. The ocean is plentiful with fish and the jungle has an abundance of fruit growing wild everywhere. This was one of my happy places for sure.

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Machu Picchu in Peru, a land of cultural intrigue and exotic produce.

MY FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS CANDRES CARNE DE RES IN BOGOTÁ, COLOMBIA

It’s one of the most memorable experiences you’ll ever have in a restaurant. It’s a non-stop show and dining party experience all rolled into one.

Between the mojitos, fried baby potatoes and chicharrons, you will be destined to go back!

Memorable food, culture and people in Ljubljana, Slovenia.

“My travel experiences around the world have made a tremendous impact on my chef life, taking inspiration, passion and techniques to a new level to further my career and mind.”

THE PIER HOUSE IN VENICE, CALIFORNIA

It has a west coast spin on east coast seafood, beautiful design that gives an old-school feel with a modern spin. I usually go for the lobster roll, clam chowder and a cold glass of white wine.

Perfect place to chill on the beach in Los Angeles.

CRAB’S CLAW IN LAVALLETTE, NEW JERSEY

I’ve been going to this place since I was a kid.

I’ve always loved the food, drinks and live music. It’s a cool family spot with some great seafood. Atmosphere is mellow, nothing over the top at all.

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Italy, the roots of Nick Liberato’s culinary heritage.

Black sand beaches and lush jungles of Osa Peninsula in Costa Rica.

MY MOST MEMORABLE DISHES Homemade raviolis

because they remind me of the lady that taught me how to cook, my grandmother Josephine Liberato. She spent so much time explaining dishes to me, but what amazed me most was how happy she made everyone else.

Twice-baked potato

PHOTOS NICK LIBERATO, MARBLEMEDIA INC. AND AMBER GARCEAU FROM COMPASS COLLECTIVE

Nick Liberato is a worldrenowned restaurateur and executive producer on Restaurants on the Edge, now in its second season on Netflix.

Together with his team Chef Dennis The Prescott, and interior designer Karin Bohn, they travel around the world to transform restaurants and the owners’ mindsets on what it takes to have a successful business.

How have your travel experiences influenced your culinary mindset and techniques?

My travel experiences around the world have made a tremendous impact on my chef life, taking inspiration, passion and techniques to a new level to further my career and mind.

In Italy, I was able to get back to my Italian roots and apply that rustic style to my cooking. Working with what I have and utilising every part of the animal and vegetable changed my way of thinking.

Sicily, which I consider a complete other country, blew me away on a whole other level. Their love for the sea and how that comes through with every dish they make made a huge impact on me.

Cooking in Colombia (South America) opened my mind to fire and the amazing flavour it brings to everything. They cook food in the coals, on the coals and hanging by wire high above the coals.

I also loved how they served a whole pig which is called Lechon and

was something I made thousands of in my early chef days in the mid ’90s. I swore to myself I would never make another but just recently cooked it for my kids and they loved it. I appreciate it now because I’ve come so far in my career since then.

Blue claw crabs with spaghetti is something I would have every August in New Jersey with my family at my beach house. We would catch the crabs, make the pasta and eat it together as a family.

Some of the best times of my life with my family. Now I’m recreating that for my kids and wife.

stuffed with rice and vegetables. This culture has always inspired me every time I return to the country.

One of the most inspiring culinary countries for me has always been Mexico. I’ve been travelling and cooking down there for 20 years.

The colours are always something that I feel really radiated the pulse of what Mexico is about. The vibrant tropical colours and specifically the deep reds really inspired me in plating dishes. The music also brings a lot of good times to the kitchen as well! I need music to cook; it’s a big part of my life and how I work in the kitchen.

Which are the up and coming culinary destinations to look out for and why?

I have had my eye on Peru for a while. Their produce is next level as they have so many different varieties of vegetables. Between the environment with beach and mountain locations, it offers many possibilities for a culinary experience.

Truffle hunting in Italy.

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CHEF MASTERCLASS

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RETURN OF A STAR As a war immigrant growing up in the US, Chef Jack Lee’s childhood was a far cry from the life of glamour he lives today. His tenacity, hunger and drive saw him rise to stardom– from working in Chinese restaurants when a student to cooking for the Oscars – Chef Jack Lee’s journey is one of fortune and misfortune, adventure and adversity but most importantly, passion.

What are the three main reasons you became a chef?

My early childhood was spent in the kitchen with my mom, making bowls of Vietnamese noodles and spreading thick paté on baguettes. Going to the US by boat took that away from me, so being a chef brought back happy memories. I had a lot of false starts in my career, but I kept returning to cooking as the kitchen was my happy place. As a US immigrant, life was rough. I was hooked on a TV show called Three’s Company because it was like a fantasy world.

The show’s protagonist, Jack, was tall, white, slapstick-funny and a chef. I learned English watching that show and I named and styled myself after Jack Tripper.

Have you ever regretted becoming a chef?

Never; it has allowed me to be creative, meet amazing people, explore myself and the cooking traditions of my birth and adopted countries. I wouldn’t exchange my job for the world. The only thing I could say to aspiring chefs is that the long hours in the kitchen are tough. There is a common saying that most chefs in America know: we come for the long hours and stay for the low pay!

Now that you are based in Vietnam, what has life been like? What motivates you?

I’m so grateful to be back in Vietnam. It has allowed me to grow as a chef and public figure. Vietnam helped me rediscover my passion for cooking after having lost my sense of taste following surgery. O have discovered national fruits that I forgot existed- jackfruit, dragon fruit, soursop, mangosteen, papaya. These flavors rekindled my energy.

How did your traumatic post-war experiences shape your career?

I was born to a Chinese family in Saigon but after the tanks came, things were different. There were war remnants everywhere: a friend of mine found an unexploded grenade and I saw what happened when he pulled the pin. One day my Mom tells me we’re going on a joy ride… next thing I know I’m on a beach with all siblings getting on a fishing boat in the middle of the night. Only

three of us made it, my aunt, younger brother and me. I nearly drowned before spending 3 days with 83 people cooking in the sun on a tiny deck; the stench was incredible. A Norwegian freighter carried us to Singapore where we sat in a refugee camp for America.

All I wanted, though, was to be home cooking with my mum. My life in the US was overshadowed by my childhood trauma and the tough existence we had as war immigrants. Cooking connected me to my past and my work ethic was unrivalled due to the heavy responsibility to support family back in Vietnam.

Did you attend culinary school or come up “the hard way”?

I first worked in Chinese restaurants as a young kitchen hand yet my school grades suffered. My family wanted me to go to medical school but I wanted to cook. However, it was years before I decided to pursue my passion enough to get a kitchen job. I walked into the best kitchen in the world – the Hotel Bel-Air and wandered in to apply for a job in my cheap suit and clip-on tie. They pretty much threw me out but I’d seen paradise and was obsessed with it. I spent my savings on an elite cooking school and my mentor got me an internship at the Bel-Air. They weren’t exactly happy to see me after stalking their staff but they were obliged to take me on.

What did you like best about your career path?

Food is a vehicle for creativity and expression. I love working with colors and fresh ingredients, I always find that inspiring. It’s exciting to be participate in cooking trends. Finally, it has also allowed me to meet interesting celebrities and inspire young kids who want to cook.

Where did you get your practical kitchen training? From whom do you think you learned the most?

Mainly on the job at the Hotel Bel-Air. My mentor was Humberto Contreras, the genius executive sous-chef. He was a Mexican immigrant, hardly the right face for the most luxurious kitchen in America, but he mastered their cuisine. It took me a long time to earn his respect, but when I got it, he taught me more than anyone else.

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Your career saw you cook for many celebrities – tell us more about this please?

After my time at Hotel Bel-Air, I grew my own business catering for elite clientele. I cooked for the Oscars, parties for Oprah and Clint Eastwood. I did catering for Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie; I cooked for Jackie Chan, Chow Yun-Fat, Quincy Jones, Jacqueline Bisset, Randy Jackson and a lot more I signed to never to disclose.

Who is a more clientele, celebrities or “regular” guests?

The more famous people are, the more critical. Part of the reason is that they have to watch what they eat. Celebrities, actresses, they’re always worrying about their weight and body shape. Or they may want to be seen as animal friendly. It’s not like the 60s or 70s when it was all meat & potatoes—nowadays the celebs are into the trends: Paleo, Keto, no sugar. It’s harder for chefs to survive in that world.

Tell us about a particularly challenging celebrity situation you had, and how you handled it?

I had a business called Chinoise Catering. We were often contracted by wealthy clientele which occasionally meant working on jobs that required absolute discretion. One client put a paper bag over my head so I couldn’t see where we were going. We drove for miles and when I got there I realised it was an event for the mob; big shot gangsters were meeting and they had very strict requirements and high expectations. I was extremely nervous, but somehow managed to meet their needs, all the while watched closely by big goons

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with guns. They tried to pay me in cocaine! I was so nervous I could barely speak, but I communicated that I wanted cash and so they laughed and threw me a roll of bills. That was one of the best paying gigs I ever had.

What are the main benefits of your vivacious sense of humour?

I see life in a fun way. Even when cooking under pressure, it has to be fun. As a chef facing the public and his diners, you need an attitude that can break the ice so as a chef, I’m always friendly.

Is there a chef you admire the most? Who and why?

Anthony Bourdain is one of my greatest inspirations and someone I dreamed of meeting. It was to my great shock to hear of his passing.

Anthony Bourdain brought culture and cuisine together and did a great service for the promotion of the Vietnamese culinary spectrum to international audiences. I’ll never forget seeing him dine on street Vietnamese noodles and beer with Obama, showing the world how food can unite us all. I am truly heartbroken to have lost the chance to shake the hand of one of my greatest heroes.

How many different types of cuisine are in your repertoire?

At the Hotel Bel-Air I had countless opportunities to cook with visiting chefs from all over the world, meaning I learnt the tricks of the trade for many cuisines. But my core styles are always Californian French and Vietnamese French. They’re my heritage, they bring together all my experiences in life.

What is your personal favourite style to cook, and why?

My formal studies were in Californian French, and that remains my favorite style to cook. I find it tastier and lighter than the classical French style.

What is your favourite wine, and why?

My favorite wine is Cabernet Sauvignon, it is full bodied and goes with everything. People are generally attracted to red wine, especially people from Chinese backgrounds as red represents luck, it has a kind of fascinating appeal.

What wine and food pairing trends have you noticed lately?

People traditionally pair white wine with fish, but now it’s getting popular to take fish with a pinot noir.

Wine with cheese – white or red?

It depends on the cheese and mood. Generally, we go for whites with lighter cheeses and reds with harder, more substantial cheese.

What are the three most interesting current culinary trends you see? Do you think the current vegan and vegetarian trends are hype or substance, and why?

I’m interested in Sous Vide which is very slow to cook but you can cook in advance and heat it up, which is a popular method.

Molecular is an interesting new trend from Europe, fascinating and beautiful. Vegan is all about the Millennial and Gen Z fascination with health. It’s good to see how young people are influencing the world of cuisine, their energy results in new cuisines emerging.

That’s why we have all these new cuisines emerging, it’s thanks to their energy.

Farm-to-table versus using only the best ingredients from wherever?

Both have advantages. F2T allows you to be sure you’re eating organic, healthy produce. It has a convenience factor; whatever you grow, you can use. It also supports local economy.

Who should have the last word in menu development and design?

I might be biased if I say the chef! Creatively, the chef’s contribution is important regarding each dish’s structure yet you have to consider the owner’s budget. If the chef works well with the management, it’s a win-win situation.

What are the three best ways to handle the often tense relationship between kitchen and service?

Communication. Both sides really need to understand what the other is doing and offer support; back supports front, front supports back.

When are you happiest at work?

I’m just happiest when people love my food. Seeing people appreciate my hard work is always a buzz. I put a lot of thought and sacrifice into what I do, so it feels great when my presentation is appreciated.

What is your favorite cuisine to eat?

My favorite food to have with family is simple home cooking. I’ve seen so many restaurants already, so I really feel most relaxed to have soul food, friendly family treats. Vietnam has a lot of this, the can chua, the lau, even the Chinese dimsum.

If you would not have become a chef, what other career would you have wanted most?

I’ve had lots of side careers, from doing pharmaceuticals to underwear distribution! I looked into studying medicine and I do have an underlying desire to be an architect. Somehow, cooking has always called me back.

What are your next projects, beyond the TV career?

I’ve been developing products to sell on the American market under my Mr. Ready brand but am more interested in starting a charity foundation, a culinary school for poorer kids wanting to develop skills for a career in cheffing. It’s a way to give back what Vietnam, the US and life has given to me.

Thank you for a nice conversation.

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CHEF MASTERCLASS

PAY ATTENTION TO THE LUNAR CYCLE Chef Mauro Colagreco of three-Michelin-starred Mirazur shares his vision for following the cyclical changes of the moon and why biodynamic farming matters.

By Esther Faith Lew

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF MIRAZUR/ MATTEOCARASSALE

he few months of lock-down in France have been sobering, but for Chef Mauro Colagreco, it has allowed him to seek refuge in the comfort of his garden and to ponder the future of Mirazur in Menton, France. Mother Earth inevitably provided the answers. At a time when mankind and its workings of trade and industry have come to either a halt or a major slow-down, the cycles of nature continue unfettered in its life-giving mission.

“The confinement period was a very shocking experience, especially in the change of pace. I was in the garden a lot as it’s just beside my house, and spending so much time working with the gardeners allowed me to really feel the energy coming from the garden and to appreciate the difference in growing produce with permaculture and biodynamic techniques. I felt the strong desire to synergise the energies of the land, its resources and the people who work on it,” shares Chef Mauro. He felt so strongly about his new direction that he consulted John Connolly, a director at NASA who was instrumental in providing feedback that shaped the creation of his new lunar-inspired dishes.

Often referred to as a gardener more than a chef, Chef Mauro’s strong resonance with Mother Earth has inspired him to create a Lunar Menu that will allow diners to eat “high-vibration” foods that are full of life-force energy; raw and organic foods such as fruit, nuts, vegetables and herbs that will provide the right kind of nutrients for holistic healthy living. With the current pandemic evoking worries over livestock and commercial agriculture, it is certainly a timely introduction to epicureans.

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Why is it important to follow the lunar cycle and biodynamic farming principles?

In ancient cultures, farmers referred to calendars in which they followed the rhythm of the stars to cultivate crops. Today’s biodynamic calendar also takes into account the beneficial cosmic stimuli that act directly on the development of roots, leaves, flowers and fruit. When we harvest crops according to this cosmic rhythm, we are able to extract the best flavour and quality of the produce, and therefore its highest nutritional value.

This calendar represents four “formative forces” attributed to the different parts of the plant: earth for the roots, water for the leaves, air for the flowers, and fire for the fruits. They vary every day according to the position of the moon and it determines the moments when the energy will be most favourable and concentrated in each part of the plant. In this next stage of Mirazur’s direction, we will follow this continuous movement of nature and its cosmic influences. My menus will be streamlined according to four categories: Root Mirazur Universe, Leaf Mirazur Universe, Flower Mirazur Universe, and Fruit Mirazur Universe.

This dining experience will depend on the lunar cycle on each particular day.

“I think the most important part of our work happens with the earth. Our skills as chefs are secondary to the quality of the food we use. A cook is first and foremost a food handler, and the preparation of a dish is the last part of a much larger process that has to do with the origin of that food; how it was treated; how it came to us.

This process happens outside of the kitchen; it happens on the land, in the gardens, in the seas, on the farms. We chefs should spend much more time outside our kitchens, going to find the origin of the produce we use. I like to think of myself as a gardener who likes to wear a chef’s jacket,” says Chef Mauro.

His humble demeanour belies an impressive list of achievements that have earned him a plethora of awards and three Michelin stars for Mirazur, including last year’s No. 1 spot in World’s Best 50 Restaurants. But he is not one to rest on his laurels, and as a result of his contemplative moments in the garden, he has set off a chain reaction of changes in his newly inspired Lunar Menu, which highlights different dishes every few days – even the decoration of the table setting changes according to the various themes under this menu.

His philosophy says it all: “A free kitchen which seeks to excite; to transmit a way of being in everyday life that is as close as possible to a state of discovery of the beauty that surrounds us. A cuisine that seeks to sublimate the simple to allow each ingredient to express itself with its own essence and uniqueness in the dish.”

We find out more.

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What kinds of dishes can diners expect from your new Lunar Menu?

My new menu revolves around four types of offerings: Root, Leaf, Flower and Fruit – and the dishes under these categories change regularly according to the cycle of the moon. The guiding concept for each of the variations of the lunar menu is an inspiring element and a leitmotif of the menu. Additionally, we continue to work with the wonderful produce of our region that comes from the Mediterranean Sea and the Maritime Alps. I like to work with colours and with contrasting textures and flavours; and this dialogue appears in every dish on the menu.

For example, in the Leaf menu, I have a Lamb Mille-feuille that showcases layers of leaves to offer different textures and flavours, whether it’s raw or fried; each bite is a different sensation altogether, the crispiness juxtaposed with the tender slow-cooked lamb dressed in lamb jus.

In the Flower menu, we have an Artichoke Tart with Capers, which we plate with caper flower petals on top of the tart; it’s so beautiful to look at, and it’s tasty as well with very bright refreshing flavours. There is also the Fish Lotus, which is prepared like a sashimi and dressed with red, green and purple radish, and citrus jelly in the shape of a lotus flower.

I have a favourite dessert on the menu called Naranjo en Flor, which was inspired by my Argentinian roots; it’s the name of a tango dance. Just like the dance, this dish is intense in its explosion of flavours and textures. It is soft yet crunchy, with sweet and tangy flavours of lemon and orange, balanced by the earthy and floral presence of saffron. One of the most significant dishes is the Dark Side of the Moon, which was inspired by NASA. It’s a fish served with black garlic and liquorice, and it’s completely black; but in the flavour you will get a very distinctively bold, umami taste that makes it impactful.

What does experiential dining mean for you and what is the most important thing you want your diners to remember?

I would like to be able to pass on to you my reflections on the power and beauty that resides in nature, and above all, the idea that although our culture has evolved and has disconnected from it, we are still part of nature. We experience the same influences and cycles that plants and animals experience; it’s just that we have not been trained to perceive them. Resuming this dialogue within ourselves and in the places we inhabit will be the only way to ensure the continuity of life on earth. It’s as simple as that. The possibility of continuing to enjoy the beauty of the world depends on it.

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CHEF MASTERCLASS

A FINE BALANCE

Le Du’s Thitid Tassanakajohn shares with Eve Tedja about his commitment to work with local food producers and his latest Thai kaiseki venture.

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PHOTOS LE DU AND NUSARA

espite its French-sounding name, the name Le Du is taken from ‘reu du’ or season in Thai language. The powerhouse behind its success is none other than Thitid Tassanakajohn or Chef Ton, as he is widely known in Thailand.

After ditching a short-lived career in banking, he endeavoured to pursue his true passion: cooking. Ton enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America in New York and working at top Michelin-starred restaurants, Eleven Madison Park, The Modern and Jean Georges. Then, he packed his knives, moved back home and opened Le Du in 2013. Inspired by the philosophy that “good food comes from good local ingredients”, Ton worked closely with local farmers, fishermen and food producers to reboot and elevate Thai cuisine. His persistence paid off when Le Du received its first one-Michelin-star accolade in 2019 and managed to retain its star in 2020. Tucked away in a quiet soi in Silom, Bangkok, the intimate restaurant is currently ranked at number 8 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant 2020 list.

Through brazen dishes such as Ant Larvae, served with slow-cooked pumpkin in soy & garlic broth and puree of roast chilli, pumpkin and Thai basil sauce, Ton showcased the prized, seasonal ingredient in an exquisite presentation. True to its name, the tasting menu at Le Du is seasonal and ever changing, always pushing the boundary between the familiar and the progressive, while catapulting Ton forward as the torchbearer of Thai cuisine.

The entrepreneurial 35-year-old chef didn’t stop at Le Du. His most recent venture is Nusara. It opened in June, offering haute cuisine Thai kaiseki experience. With just 10 seats, Ton wants Nusara to embody the warm, genial spirit of Thai hospitality. “It is named after my late grandmother, as a tribute to her legacy. At Nusara, we want to create an experience that makes each guest feel special and feel at home,” says Ton.

Nusara’s Sago with Young Coconut Juice and Shaved Raw Chestnut

Why did you decide to open the more casual restaurants and bars after Le Du? What is the DNA of your establishments?

I want to showcase the breadth of Thai cuisine, in different spectrums and accessibility. While Le Du is my interpretation of progressive Thai cuisine, deeply rooted and yet influenced by different modern techniques, Baan offers simple homecooked meals based on my family recipe. As a natural wine bar, Mayrai offers comfort food, simple pad thai and khao soi in a casual ambience. Located in the same building as Mayrai, Nusara is about elevating traditional Thai cuisine to a refined, intimate kaiseki experience. All of the ingredients are organic and locally sourced.

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Ant larvae, slow-cooked pumpkin in soy and garlic broth, puree of roast chili and pumpkin, Thai basil sauce from Le Du

You are a Certified Sommelier. How does it help you in creating a wine pairing menu?

I have that in mind when I create a dish but it is not the only consideration. The most important thing is how to balance its flavour and texture. I love wine and that’s the reason why I decided to learn more about it from the Court of Master Sommelier when I was in New York. Some Thai dishes are spicy and very difficult to pair with wines. Often, it needs some rebalancing. I find Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and some Champagne goes well with our tasting menu.

Le Du’s Red Snapper, Mangosteen and Lemon

With such a different approach to dining in the four restaurants and one bar, how do you define your cooking philosophy?

Every dish is Thai at its heart. The technique is probably French or the presentation may be influenced by Japanese cuisine but the taste is always Thai. I grew up eating meals from two exceptional cooks, my grandmother and mother. Thai cuisine is what I know, but along the way, I learned about the importance of working with seasons to get the freshest produce and to coax its best quality through different techniques and to present it in a way that transcends its preconceived notions. I find pleasure in exploring the boundary of underrated Thai ingredients, things that people consider common or take for granted.

In one of the kaiseki menu at Nusara, we have the Giant Sea Catfish’s roe-marinated in fish sauce and sour mango. It is inspired by the usage of ikura or salmon roe in a Japanese dish. I want to show that in Thailand, we have similar praise-worthy ingredients.

Another example is sago from Phattalung Province, served with young coconut juice and shaved raw chestnut, in the similar fashion of how the Italians use its truffle.

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Tell us about your local producers.

For the longest time, Thai ingredients have been underappreciated in its own country. Imported products are considered more superior and luxurious than local ones. But this is slowly changing. Initially, I had to look for these small-scale producers and try to convince them to grow specific plants organically. Monoculture farming was and is still a big issue. It took extra effort to get them to change their perception that quality is better than quantity and that organic produce is definitely more valuable.

Currently, we work with three vegetable farms and butcheries in Nakhon Pathom and Ratchaburi. They are situated just outside Bangkok, to make sure that our produce is always fresh. For seafood, we try to work closely with 10 to 15 small-scale fisheries from the East and South of Thailand. I can proudly say that 100 percent of the food in all of our restaurants is sourced within the country.

What would you like to see more of in Thailand’s dining scene?

We’ve seen Thailand’s dining scene flourishing in the past seven years. I want to see more chefs taking Thai cuisine in different directions, and elevating it into an exceptional fine dining experience in their own individual styles. There is no point in doing it the same way as we do here at Le Du. I want to see different interpretations and I believe there is still more room to grow.

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EATING TOGETHER IS ABOUT MORE THAN JUST FOOD

Mr Danh founded Laang after the success of the Quan Bui restaurants in Saigon. Laang is Saigon’s dining sanctuary and is widely-celebrated for its tranquility and innovative Vietnamese menu. Now, Mr Danh is determined that Laang and all it embodies is the perfect concept to promote the excellence of Vietnamese cuisine to a global audience.

What inspired you to build Laang as a quiet green oasis in the heart of Saigon?

After being successful our Quan Bui restaurants, I was wondering how we can elevate the food experience in Vietnam. We wanted to create a new concept, which keeps the tradition of Vietnamese cuisines, but opens the horizon of our guests, that Vietnam has many flavors and ideas to offer. Our garden oasis definitely helps us, to create a cozy and calm atmosphere for our restaurant, and it provides our guest a unique place in Saigon.

Why did you choose Indochine style that is reminiscent of the golden age of old Saigon for Laang restaurant?

The history of Indochine is still in the minds of most of us, and will remain for the next generations as well. With our Villa building, we wanted to keep some of the charm from this area, but not forgetting our roots and the long way it took Vietnam to be what it is today.

Is there any similarity between Quan Bui and Laang?

In all restaurants of Quan Bui Group, we are aiming to have a great and hospitable service for all our guests. We also have small similarities to our dishes, but at Laang, we are still aiming to go the little extra mile for our guests and bring Vietnamese service to the next level.

As we know, Laang focuses on middle-class customers, including foreigners. How do the chefs at Laang make pure Vietnamese cuisine that appeals to this audience?

As mentioned before, we are adding a little modern Asian twist to most of our dishes. Some foreigners are prejudice to Vietnamese

cuisine, as they might have had other experiences. We are confident of changing this perspective, after they have had visited Laang.

Our dishes are made from local; fresh ingredients, and we are not overpowering with herbs and sauces.

Laang’s goal is to serve diners not only delicious dishes but also to promote healthy dining. How are the ingredients selected and quality controlled by Laang?

Most of our ingredients are delivered daily, and our well-trained kitchen and service team makes a quality on every delivery. We are lucky enough, to have great suppliers as partners. It took us some years to find the ones, which we can also identify with our own quality standards, but now this definitely one of our strengths, that we get supplied by the right companies.

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Can you share more about the opportunity to meet and cooperate with the two chefs, Minh Hai and Trong Huan?

I knew them before started Laang, and one day I asked them come over for food tasting turned out great it was what I expected.

How did you, as a restaurateur, respond to the huge impact Covid-19 had on the catering world?

We never stop to improve and being innovative. We took the months of COVID; to expand our service portfolio to catering as well, and had already a few great events. Currently, we are working on a few more options to elevate this experience as well. For 2021, we have already a few surprises prepared. Stay tuned.

What have you learnt from the tough year that is 2020?

This year eating together is about more than the food. It’s about spending together, connecting, and building stronger relationships.

This year it’s all about keeping healthy so we can do all other plans next year.

The menus at Laang are regularly updated. What are the criteria for a dish to be included in Laang’s menu?

We want to keep the tradition up, while being innovative and present something to our guests, they might never had or expected in a Vietnamese restaurant.

As an enthusiast of Vietnamese cuisine do you have a region whose cuisine you like best?

I love food and eating out all the time, I would say Northern cuisine is my most favourite.

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As a businessman who is passionate about cuisine, could you share your ideal menu for different occasions?

We changing menus every three months and some of them get to go on the recommendations some have to go. Adding new items is also a great way to add diversity without getting rid of what’s working, we’re perceived as fresh and innovative, while potentially attracting a new crowd. “Same old - same old” is nice, but eventually even the most faithful recurring customers will want to try something new.

What are the future plans for Laang?

We are currently working on an extension plan for this brand. We believe this concept has a great potential all over Vietnam and even other countries Word Wide. In the last years, Vietnamese cuisine has gotten imore and more global recognition, and we believe with Laang, we have the right concept to bring our cuisine to the people.

Thank you for today’s conversation.

50 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province, Vietnam +84 252 3847 700 | bientroi@sunsearesort-muine.com

sunsearesort-muine.com

WI N E K N OWLE DG E

Mapping out wine sustainability

2

016 was the watershed year that some Burgundy producers lost their entire crop to hail and frost. Across the Chablis region, which was particularly hard hit, it’s estimated only about half of the usual harvest made it to bottle. This was followed by equally devasting frosts in 2017.

The raging Northern California wildfires of 2017 were the costliest on record, and spread dangerously close to wellestablished wineries in Napa and Sonoma. Frey Vineyards, for example, saw their winery’s tasting room, bottling facility, offices and 14 of the property’s residences reduced to ashes.

Wineries across the world are feeling the effects of climate change and its direct or indirect impact. Some have made

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extreme steps to continue making wine into the future, such as Piemonte-based Angelo Gaja’s venture into cool climate Sicilian wines, or Pommery Champagne’s venture into making U.K. sparkling wine. There’s also the eyebrow-raising vote by winemakers in Bordeaux in July to allow seven new varieties in the region: Alvarinho, Petit Manseng and Liliorila for whites and Marselan, Touriga Nacional, Castets and Arinarnoa for reds. These seven grapes were most likely chosen for their ability to cope with warmer weather conditions as well as natural resistance to certain diseases.

It’s a brave new wine world, and these three regions are applying best practices to soothe over Mother Nature’s wrath.

PHOTOS FELTON ROAD/ ANDREA JOHNSON

A world without wine might be a possibility if hail, frost, flood, drought, pests and other environmental disasters continue to exert pressure on traditional winegrowing areas. So what can winemakers do?

By June Lee

Felton Road Felton Road

New Zealand At Felton Road, sustainability has been built into its philosophy since its inception in 1995. “Every opportunity is carefully monitored to ensure that we are being as sustainable as possible, so that we can maintain our land, support it, and help it to persevere,” notes their environmental manifesto. The estate is both organic and biodynamic, with a balanced ecosystem that includes African Boer goats and Highland cattle that graze on bushes and grass respectively, and chickens and falcons.

Waste matter, water management and energy efficiency are the main markers for every winery, and Felton Road goes the extra mile on every count. Coarse solids, such as lees solids, seeds, skins and stems go into compost, while land is also set aside for growing peastraw and other crops for compost material. Waste water discharge is used to grow the grass used to feed the animals, while liquid lees – normally discarded into the environment – is distilled into brandy. Organically farmed vineyards use less water, maintains and improves soil structure and fertility. No synthetic chemicals are used to reduce the stress on the environment as well.

Blair Walter, the winemaker since the beginning, also updates that the winery has installed 32kw of solar PV panels, bringing the winery to neutral electricity over the year. On global warming,

he notes, “It is too early to say but in spring and early summer of 2017/18 we experienced the warmest October, November, December and January on record.

We normally experience quite variable conditions so it is hard to say, but the last eight years have been warmer than the previous 12. The warmer vintages are good for reliable harvests (warmer and stable weather over flowering and fruit set) but can affect the style of the wine negatively – we generally make more exciting wines in the cooler years. However, 12 to 20 years ago, we had some vintages that were too cold so a little warming has conversely been somewhat welcomed. I believe as a small Island land mass that our warming has not been as significant as a continental landmass.”

Fans of Felton Road wines, which are distributed by Monopole in Singapore, may notice a difference in the bottles used by them.

Walter elaborates, “A carbon audit of our vineyard and winery identified that the glass bottle is responsible for over 50 percent of carbon costs. We use a 417g bottle that is significantly lighter than standard Burgundy style bottles.” Heavyweight bottles used to portray a premium image can weight up to 800g or even 1kg.

Yet, even the strongest need to be vigilant. Walter has been replanting clones of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on some parcels since 2008, using a clone of Pinot Noir (Abel) that ripens at least a week later, maintaining brighter acidity and fresher flavour at the same ripeness and potential alcohol levels. He continues, “A new vineyard that we planted in 2012 is planted to 50 percent of this clone, with a further two clones to trial whether they will behave similarly.

With Chardonnay we are selecting mostly the Mendoza clone which maintains a higher acidity, again maintaining a freshness and balance to the wines, should we face warmer vintages.”

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France As one of the most badly battered Old World regions, French winemakers have been waging a costly war against the elements.

As spotted in Decanter’s website, Amandine Marchive, co-owner of Domaines des Malandes in Chablis said, “The sky goes yelloworange. When you see this colour, you know it will hail. Within five minutes hail had completely destroyed the whole 5ha. This was in June, but the day after it looked like February – no leaves, no grapes, nothing – just the wood remained.”

Reaching out to her through her importer in Singapore, Wea Wines, Marchive was facing a much better harvest this year than Domaines des Malandes

in that fateful 2016 vintage. She affirms, “Hail is now happening every year, from May to September, everywhere in France, with different intensity. The big step taken by the Bourgogne and Beaujolais Chambers of Agriculture since 2018 is firing silver iodide by cannon into the clouds. (But) it is not 100% efficient, as in 2018 my brother Richard lost 80% of his production because of hail storms in Beaujolais.”

Marchive has taken to installing frost covers in April and May on 2 hectares of her third-generation family vineyards, as she tries to decrease the use of polluting candles. “Frost is happening less frequently than in the 1990s, but the buds come out too early and they are very sensitive to frost – for instance, February this year was very warm, almost 20°C!” Sonoma County Winegrowers

U.S.

B good Some wineries are playing their part to combat climate change, not just because the future of wine depends on it, but to be part of a global movement of businesses that do good.

B Corporations (bcorporation. net), for instance, are certified businesses that meet the highest standards of doing good – using profits and growth for

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positive impact for employees, communities and the environment.

Of the several dozen wineries that have voluntarily joined B Corps, Symington Family Estates – owners of Graham’s, Dow’s, Quinta do Vesuvio, and many more – is the most recent in July 2019. As part of their disclosure report, they explain how they handle issues such biodiversity impact and as a company selling alcohol.

In 2014, Sonoma County Winegrowers announced that they would become the United States’ first 100% certified sustainable wine region by 2019. With over 95% certified to date, this means that the Sonoma County bottle that you’re drinking was produced by a company that made conscious decisions to follow best practices to care for their land, the people who work there and to make responsible decisions in their business.

This ties in with the county’s profile – more than 85 percent of Sonoma County’s vineyards are family owned and operated, and it is estimated that 80 percent of the county’s vineyards are less than 100 acres and 40 percent are less than 20 acres. In addition, the Sonoma County Grape Growers Foundation was established with a long-term focus to improve the lives of agricultural workers. They created a recovery fund for workers and their families who were displaced by the floods this year, Sustainability, eco-awareness and corporate social responsibility aren’t just buzzwords anymore – they are increasingly what customers demand and care about. With more wineries stepping up to the plate, it is easier to vote with your dollars by supporting brands that go the extra mile.

WI N E K N OWLE DG E

AUSTRIAN

ON THE

WINE TRAIL

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While in search of vineyard interfaces in the heart of Europe, June Lee discovers the classic grapes and food that define Austria’s borders.

GETTING THERE Major airlines fly from Singapore to Vienna via connecting airports, including Thai Airways, Turkish Airlines, British Airways and Finnair.

The Eisenberg viewing platform

From Vienna to Südsteiermark The easiest way to get around the sparse countryside is to drive, taking approximately three hours from Vienna to your destination in Südsteiermark. The OBB Railjet train from Vienna to Graz takes around two and a half hours, and you’ll need to arrange onward transport to the winegrowing regions.

The view from Tement Winery

From Vienna to Burgenland/Lake Neusiedl It is possible to do day tours of Burgenland from Vienna by car, which is approximately an hour’s drive away.

I

t has been 100 years since World War 1 ended in 1919, and along with that the collapse of the AustroHungarian empire. I’m listening to a somewhat dry historical lecture at a picnic bench named Grenztisch – which literally means ‘table at the border’, built with one half in Austria, and the other half in Slovenia.

There’s nothing dry about my options though, choosing between an Austrian Muskateller or Slovenian Welschriesling as my wine group takes in the stunning but once savage hills and valleys of both countries laid at our feet.

Tales of eight borders Small but mighty Austria sits literally at the heart of Europe, sharing borders with Germany, Italy, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary and Slovenia. My route skirts the latter four of those countries, to understand how the continuing post-war (re)assignment of these borders had inflicted traumatic effects on the people and produce of those lands.

South Tyrol, for instance, despite its mainly German-speaking population, was ceded to Italy and

is today Alto Adige. In Styria, where we blithely sipped wine at Grenztisch, 30,000 hectares of vineyards were ceded to the new Kingdom of Serbs, Croatians and Slovenes, which eventually gave rise to “dual owners” who could process imported grapes in Austria and label them Styrian. Only after the raising of the Iron Curtain in 1989, could Austria and its neighbours normalise relations and formally establish “crossborder” or joint project vineyards which were the result of the historical turmoil.

That brings us back to the wine in my hand, the sprightly Gamser Welschriesling 2018 (www.gamser.at) made by Anna Gamser’s family from grapes grown on both sides of the border.

For 50 such families who were separated by border demarcations, who collectively own around 40 hectares, they can now use the Historischer Doppelbesitz labelling system to denote their unique viticultural circumstances.

But what is wine without its food to match? Over the course of my visit to three different regions, I begin to understand even more of the country – through the dining table.

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AUSTRIAN WINE TERMS

A wine dinner at Sattlerhof

DAC: Abbreviation for Districtus Austriae Controllatus, which is a special region-typical quality wine. Similar to wines of origin in other countries.

Gemischter Satz: A white field blend that comes mixed from the vineyard, rather than blended in the winery.

Big Heurigen Party at Fuhrgassl-Huber, Vienna Buschenschank lunch at Dreisiebner Stammhaus

Heurigen: Traditional Viennese wine taverns where growers serve food with their wine.

Ried: Starting in 2016, single vineyard wines are officially labelled as Ried followed by the vineyard’s name.

Spätlese: Late harvest sweet wine Weingut: Means estate or winemaker, usually denoting a wine grown and made onsite.

The whites of Südsteiermark Surprisingly, Sauvignon Blanc is the breakout star of southern Styria, where it thrives on fossil limestone soil alongside varieties like Morillon (Chardonnay), Muskateller, Riesling and Weissburgunder.

At Dreisiebner Stammhaus (Sulztal an der Weinstrasse 35, A-8461 Sulztal an der Weinstrasse. www.dreisiebner.com) where we pull up for lunch, a summer squall dampens our clothes but not our appetite. The spread is rustic but lipsmacking: a buschenschank lunch with mostly homemade delicacies of curd and vegetable spread, liver pâté, boiled and cured pork and beef ham, sausages, Almenland cheeses and homey breads.

Over lunch, we absorbed with interest the new Südsteiermark DAC system which started from 2018. Wines from this vintage onwards may be labelled as Gebietsein (regional wine), Ortswein (local or ‘village’ wine) and Riedenwein (single vineyard wine) in order to distinguish quality levels. The estate we’re at, Weingut Dreisiebner Stammhaus, comprises 17 hectares in the single vineyard sites of Hochsulz and Zoppelberg, now in the hands of the fourth generation.

Their unoaked Sauvignon Blanc Hochsulz won the championship title in its category at the Concours Mondial du Sauvignon.

For more unbeatable views of Slovenia and the southern part of East Styria, make a stop at Tement Winery (Zieregg 13, A-8461 Berghausen. www.tement.at) where its mountain plateau location overlooks its famous Zieregg ried. If a tasting of the plush and precise 2007 namesake Zieregg inspires you to stay, they have six modern winemaker apartments located at the highest point of the estate as well as a vinothek for regional dishes.

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Marinated char paired with Sauvignon Kapellenweigarten 2017 from Weingut Sattlerhof

Last but not least, Sattlerhof (Geniesserhotel Sattlerhof, Sernau 2a, A-8462 Gamlitz. www.sattlerhof.at) might perk up the urban palate more used to white tablecloth than check-covered picnic benches.

While Willi Satttler and his family farm the 35-hectare organic estate, which specialises in Sauvignon Blanc, Hannes Sattler has been running the restaurant and tavern for 25 years. The restaurant cuisine is refined; think delicate horseradish soup with an earthy black ravioli pudding, perfectly matched to a Weissburgunder with its floral, spicy notes. A Kranachberg roe venison for mains was the ideal foil for a vivacious 2013 Niederösterreich Reserve Pinot Noir from Brundlmayer.

The reds of Burgenland Barbed wire, minefields and guard towers were in place between the Austria-Hungary border until as recently as 2007, when all border controls were finally demolished. At Eisenberg, an observation deck commemorates the war-torn past as it offers bucolic views of placid

vineyards criss-crossing both countries. It gets more confusing as you find out Burgenland used to be part of Hungary until 1920, while Sopron – just across the current border – voted in a local plebiscite to be returned to Hungary in 1921.

Blaufränkisch and Kékfrankos are two sides of the same grapes, grown in Austria and Hungary respectively. Similar to the Südsteiermark, families in Eisenberg farmed land on both sides of the border, where the terroir is iron-rich and covered in slate. You won’t want to miss Weingut Schützenhof (Winzerstrasse 41, 7474 Deutsch Schutzen. www.schuetzenhof.cc), one of the architects of the new Eisenberg style, allowing Blaufränkisch’s florals, spices and bright acidity to shine rather than hide under showy new oak.

Starting from 2009, qualifying wines from Eisenberg can be labelled Eisenberg DAC or Eisenberg DAC Reserve.

You’ll want to savour these wines with cuisine that’s seamlessly Hungarian and Austrian – beef tartare, ragout of game with spatzle noodles, Hungarian trifle and apple strudel. Look further afield to Mittelbirgenland DAC for Blaufränkisch that’s more earthy and warm, thanks to the loamy soils that imbue a spiced and black forest berry character to the wines. A good start is at first-generation Rotweingut Prickler (Bachgasse 4, A-7361 Lutzmannsburg. www.prickler.at) where their top-end is a Blaufränkisch Reserve, though you’ll also find Zweigelt, Merlot and Pinot Noir grapes.

Vienna’s name – Wien – refers to wine, no surprise as it is the only city in the world to have a significant area dedicated to vineyards.

At least 30 percent of these are devoted to Gemischter Satz, a specialty white field blend comprising grape varieties that have been planted together.

At maximum 12.5% ABV, these wines are meant to be fresh and fruity, preferably drunk young. Check out Fuhrgassl-Huber (Neustift am Walde 68, Vienna. www.fuhrgassl-huber.at) in the 16th district, where third generation Thomas Huber has 14 hectares of Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC overlooking the spacious heurigen and its gardens. Expect to dine on classic dishes, such as pork escalope, fried chicken in breadcrumbs, meatballs, and strudels filled with vegetables, spinach and goat cheese – all which need the juicy acidity, structure and roundedness of a fine quality Gemischter Satz.

The luscious sweets of Lake Neusiedl

The writer was a guest of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board.

Smack in the middle of Burgenland’s red wine country is the Seewinkel subregion, where Lake Neusiedl is a bona fide tourist attraction. Enthusiasts of another kind flock here for the UNESCO nature reserve and park that spans Austria and Hungary – bikers, canoeists, photographers and hikers in full strength alongside us thirsty wine seekers. The lake’s special humidity makes possible the ‘good’ bortrytis rot along its eastern side, allowing houses like Tschida and Velich to make world renowned sweet wines (in the same style as Sauternes and Tokaj) from Welschriesling, Traminer, Chardonnay and even Zweigelt.

We find our way to the modern tasting rooms of Weinlaubenhof Kracher (apetlonerstrasse 37, A-7142 Ilmitz. www.kracher.at), where it’s possible to find back vintages of some of their famed Trockenbeerenauslesen (TBAs, or medium to full bodied sweet wines). Tasting the wines alongside gourmet treats from the same area reinforces the old adage that what grows together tastes good together. A melt-in-the-mouth chicken

liver parfait, made by Hink Pasteten for Kracher, finds the perfect pairing with a young fruity Spätlese, while the blue cheese from Styria, Schärdinger Affineur Kracher, was created specifically with Kracher’s Beerenauslese Cuvee in mind. Chocolate and Ilmitz cake, a local cream layered speciality, were also natural matches, bearing in mind not to let the sweetness of the chosen dessert wine overwhelm the sweetness of the dessert.

The blends of Vienna

Noble sweet wines of Lake Neusiedl

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V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

Labels come to life

With an eye for storytelling, Casa Rojo’s founders have blazed a trail for a new style of winemaking in Spain.

By June Lee

I

t’s not often that wine labels look like movie posters, but on top of that, José Luis Gomez looks like he stepped right out of his MachoMan bottle. Which is indeed accurate, as the label was based on a caricature of Gomez by Spanish artist Eduardo del Fraile, a good friend. Gomez, 44, and his wife Laura Muñoz, 37, are an attractive winemaking couple. They are unabashedly plugged into social media and millennial drinking culture and share many of the same values and interests of that generation. As Gomez articulates, “The future is here, so you have to adapt or die. The new generation of wine drinkers is interested in holistic quality, not just the product.

They want to know the approach all the way to the moment of consumption.” He chuckles as he checks my Instagram photos, reminding me to tag Casa Rojo in order to reach their avid followers.

Born in wine Muñoz was born into a winemaking family, waking up to the smells of fermentation and watching her father stomp grapes

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while Gomez got started in the wine business at 18 years old.

They met in Japan on separate business missions, and had an immediate connection over drinks at a Roppongi bar. If the movie Lost in Translation comes to mind, that’s a resemblance that has occurred to Muñoz as well.

Married in 2008, they started Casa Rojo in 2010 with the ambition of elaborating the best wines across different regions across Spain and native grapes to faithfully represent the terroir of each. It resembles a négociant business, which, while well-established in France, is relatively rare in Spain. Today, they handle nine different projects across Spain – MachoMan (Monastrell) from D.O. Jumilla, El Gordo del Circo from D.O. Rueda, The Orange Republic (Godello) from D.O Valdeorras, La Marimorena (Albariño) from D.O. Rias Baixas, Ladrón (Mencia) from D.O. Bierzo, Alexander vs The Ham Factory (Tinta Fina) from D.O. Ribera del Duero, Maquinón (Garnacha Negra) from Priorat, The Invisible Man (Tempranillo) from D.O Rioja, and Molto Negre (Trepat) a D.O. Cava from Villafranca del Penedés.

If the list reads like a Spanish guide to grapes and regions, that is no coincidence. Says Gomez, “Wines have to tell you a story. As enologists, we have to respect what those grapes want to tell you, what they smell like, what they taste like. Respecting and interpreting the terroir is the base of a great wine.” Like many

MOLTO NEGRE Grapes: 100% Trepat Taste: Made in traditional method, this extra brut Cava has just 3.5g/litre of sugar, accentuating its bright Trepat fruit and crisp acidity. Only the first press juice is used, giving the wine its aromatic bloom and fresh nose. This ‘black sheep’ of sparkling Cava pairs well with pizza, pasta and poolside parties. $60

winemkers, Gomez looks up to the legendary Dane, Peter Sisseck whose philosophy and Dominio de Pingus Ribera del Duero wines propelled Spanish wines to the world’s attention.

Like Sisseck, Gomez pays attention to the native materials.

“Grapes are life forms that have been adapting to their surroundings for centuries. My vision is that we have to work those grapes, make wines with those grapes that have adapted to that area for many centuries,” he says. Every year, they strive to make the wines better – whether through pruning innovation for higher concentration, low and very controlled fermentation temperatures, low maceration, or choosing extraordinarily mild oak for their French barriques. The quest never ends to find the best grapes, the best winemakers, and people with local knowledge.

The best part of working together, the couple agrees, is that learning goes at double the speed. They are as likely to be pairing MachoMan with arroz con conejo y caracoles (traditional paella with rabbits and snails) as they are dreaming up the next label for Minami, a small production of Monastrell slated for release this year with just 8,000 bottles. Though more blockbuster grapes such as Tempranillo in Rioja sell better, they feel strongly for Monastrell (a.ka. Mouvedre or Mataro) and its potential. As Gomez sums up, “We will continue to make and push what we are and believe.”

ALEXANDER VS THE HAM FACTORY 2015 Grapes: Tinta Fina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot Taste: From the Ribero del Duero comes an iconic collaboration with the Miguel Sanz family, specialist in Bordeaux and Tempranillo varieties. Small yields and higher concentration allow the grapes to express intensity of black fruit compote, with notes of mocha and vanilla. $98

MACHOMAN 2016 Grapes: 100% Monastrell Taste: A passion project to revive Monastrell from the D.O. Jumilla, this signature bottle is aged in new French oak as well as 800-litre Roman clay amphoras. The terroir imbues the dark wine with ample red plum and cherry flavours, tinged with thyme and balsamic, making it ideal with Mediterranean dishes. $69 Available from Enoteca (enoteca.com.sg)

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The conscious winemaker

A personal conviction to tread lightly on the earth drives Johannes Gebeshuber from Weingut Gebeshuber's mission to restore the glorious quality of Zierflander and Rotgipfler from Gumpoldskirchen, Austria.

By June Lee

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PHOTOS STEVE HAIDER AND EILAND WIEN

V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

F

or biodynamic wines, we have Austrian metaphysical theorist Rudolf Steiner to thank, who devised the Demeter biodynamic concept according to his doctrine of ‘anthroposophy’ in the 1920s. The holistic concept of biodynamic farming focuses on the farm and soils as living, self-sustaining organisms to be cultivated naturally without any need for synthetic intervention.

On my seminal visit to Vienna for the 20th anniversary of wine fair VieVinum in 2018, I found that Austrian winemakers young and old were resonating with the century-old writings of Steiner with good reason – they are truly attached to their pristine lands and the traditional, closed loop method of farming which continues to make so much sense today.

One of these meetings happened almost by chance while I was on an excursion to the village of Gumpoldskirchen for a vertical tasting of Zierflander, an autochthonous grape that once brought fame to the region but was now reduced to just 77 hectares under vine in all of Austria. The trip from Vienna to the Thermenregion led me to the quietly charismatic founder and winemaker Johannes Gebeshuber.

Disciplined disciple A few months after, I meet Johannes in Singapore, where he’s supporting the annual Austrian Wine Festival organised by Leopold’s bar and vinothek. Celebrating his 50th birthday, Johannes easily looks 10 years younger, thanks to his athletic background and vegetarian diet for the past 30 years.

A persistent stomach problem at 20 led him to quit eating meat and stop smoking, while he turned his interest to Chinese philosophy and other teachings.

Johannes spent the first part of his career in marketing, which opened his eyes to Burgundian wines. A few “trials and errors” as well as courses in winemaking later, Weingut Gebeshuber was born in 1998. Initially, he adopted a ‘cautious’ approach, observing and experimenting with organic methods that became formalised in 2006, and then fully biodynamic certified in 2017. There are about 60 biodynamic wine estates practicing Demeter in Austria, joining 221 member producers that also include beekeepers, brewers, fisheries and gardeners.

“I believe there’s a certain positive energy transferred from human to plant and back,” Johannes elaborates, noting that the effects are visible in the abundance of insects, hares and falcons that are attracted to his vineyards. What convinced him to farm biodynamically is the closed cycle of land cultivation that resembles the natural circulatory system, rather than the more ethereal ‘vibrations’ or new age practices associated with it. He does concede, however, that there are certain rhythms to wine where it can taste full-bodied one day and leaner the next, that are perhaps attributable to natural phases. In biodynamic practices, moon cycles are thought to be influential; for instance the period before a full moon increases the moisture in soil, making it ideal for planting seeds.

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“Vineyards don’t have to look like clean alleys,” he shares. “They should look natural, with grasses that go their own way. Organic berries are smaller and the skin is thicker, which help to reduce mold infection. Furthermore, the aroma is in the skin of the grape, so we preserve those in our wines by not using filtration. We also stopped irrigation, which then pressures the plant to go deeper into the soil to get water.”

The path less trodden Johannes first produced all the expected grape varieties from his winery, a total of 25 that included Austrian staples Gruner Veltliner and Zweigelt. However, it was just too much to handle, and in 2004, he made the bold and less commercially driven decision to focus precisely on white Zierfandler and Rotgipfer, and red Sankt Laurent and Pinot Noir.

In 2010, he took the further step to adopt a monovarietal single-vineyard concept of Zierfandler, Rotgipfer, Sankt Laurent and Pinot Noir, making them 80 percent of all his vineyard holdings, while the remainder comprises Gemischter Satz, the traditional Austrian field blend. While still dealing with just four grapes, this means having to track and manage 42 distinct parcels spread out over 25 hectares, some on highly prized fossil limestone soils that contribute to the grapes’ renowned minerality. The oldest vines are 80, while the youngest are at least 18 years old. Incidentally, his two sons have grown together with the winery, being 20 and 18 respectively.

However, by far the hardest decision that kept him up at nights was whether to switch to screw cap closure in 2004. He didn’t dare initially to go all the way, so he split his production 50-50 between cork and screw cap. Local customers loved it and he became the second producer in Austria in 2005 to convert fully to screw cap. The decision however caused consternation on the export market – which didn’t embrace the idea until a good six years later when it had then become an industry norm in Austria.

GEBESHUBER VOM MUSCHELKALK PINOT NOIR 2016 Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir Taste: A zesty Austrian Pinot Noir, this bright number sees spontaneous fermentation in open wooden tubs, mashed by hand and stored for 10 months in a 500-litre barrel.

Expect a soft entry of dark berries, with balance, ample minerality, spices on the palate and a long finish. $42

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From past to future The tasting of Zierfandler that spanned nine vintages between 1948 and 1988 was made possible because of Johannes’ lease and subsequent purchase of the historical house and cellars of the cooperative winery of Gumpoldskirchen. While the cooperative has moved out, their archival store of liquid gold from 1945 continues to reside in the cellar alongside the Gebeshuber production facilities, and which was generously poured for us. We learnt that the style of wine after World War II was in the Auslese, or sweeter, style – Johannes attributes it to the people’s taste for something decadent after the privations of wartime.

What was surprising was the style of Gebeshuber wines shown from 2004 to the present day. It was important to Johannes to restore Zierfandler and Rotgipfer, the two endemic grapes of the Thermenregion, to sommeliers’ menus in the country. He laments, “Looking at wine lists, I saw all the other winegrowing regions there – almost exclusively, Wachau, Burgenland and Südsteiermark.

You could only find Zierfandler and Rotgipfer at the heurigen (wine taverns) back then.” The two grapes were often blended together, known as Gumpoldskirchner, and their popularity dates back to the Habsburg dynasty. The former is high in acidity and rich in extract, while the latter is juicier and fruitier with gentler acidity, and need the right handling in order to bring out their full potential and ageability. He strives for purity and precision, taming tannins and not fermenting on skins, to achieve this style.

Having invested heavily into Gebeshuber over the past 20 years, whether through expansion or buying the production facility, Johannes is consistently tweaking and critically developing the resources and grapes under his care. His goal is as much personal as it is a professional mission for the region. A sparkling Zierfandler Sekt is next, as are a few other village bottlings. Before we part, I ask him how he derives his decisions – whether from the analytical or emotional side of his brain. His answer is swift and clear: “100 percent emotional.”

GEBESHUBER LAGE MODLER ZIERFLANDER 2015 Grapes: 100% Zierflander Taste: At 14.5%, this is a big white, but its power is well-sheathed in buttery, warm notes of mango and pear, with hints of pineapple sweetness. High levels of acidity along with elegant structure and potential to age make this one for the cellar. Drink with seared seafood or roasted veal. $83

GEBESHUBER LAGE LAIM ROTGIPFLER 2015 Grapes: 100% Rotgipfler Taste: Rotgipfler’s aromatic profile really stands out here, with expressive white fruit and white florals on the nose. There’s a medley of lychee and coconut notes, with a delicate honeyed tone that belies its supple savoury character. A big wine at 14.5% that will mature gracefully over as many as 30 years. $83 Gebeshuber wines are available from leopold.sg

39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: (+84) 28 39304839 / (+84) 28 39302468 E: tandoor@tandoorvietnam.com W: tandoorvietnam.com

V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

The accidental winemaker Akiko Freeman from Freeman Winery wowed everyone with her discerning palate, which is how she found herself making Burgundian-style Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in California.

By June Lee

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rowing up in Japan, Akiko Freeman can’t remember when she first became her father’s “drinking buddy”, but as her sibling didn’t drink the task fell onto her. He had spent time in England where he fell in love with wines, and in particular Burgundy. Akiko modestly recounts that she became adept at identifying flavours in wine, and developed a keen sense of nosing and tasting.

Serendipity in a storm Arriving in New York in 1985 to start university, Akiko made a cultural faux pas at her first party – she was “dressed to kill” in a formal Chanel dress and heels for a basement keg party. Ken, who was supposed to be sailing to the Caribbean post-college, had been forced ashore by Hurricane Gloria and was invited to the same party. He couldn’t help but notice the striking Japanese newcomer, and they bonded over their mutual passion for wine. That date is commemorated on the keystone at Freeman Winery, and Gloria is the name of their estate vineyard.

The winery was set up in 2001 after the Freemans had moved back to the States from Singapore and decided to pursue a vision of winemaking that they cherished – cold climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, in a sophisticated, balanced and elegant style. Having looked at over 300 vineyard sites, they decided on the Russian River AVA, working with esteemed growers like Keefer and Heintz.

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Ken interjects, “We had to kiss a lot of frogs before we found the right partners.” Their first eight-acre Gloria Estate Vineyard was established in 2006, planted with six blocks of Pinot Noir clones Swan, Pommard, 115, Martini and Calera; followed by the 14-acre Yu-Ki Estate Vineyard in 2007 in Sonoma Coast.

Looking for umami Freeman Winery’s first winemaker Ed Kurtzman is a renowned Pinot Noir specialist, and helped the couple to establish the early picked, Burgundian style that they were looking for. Akiko started out assisting Ed but soon discovered she enjoyed making the wines – and also living in Sonoma. Ed also gauged that Akiko had a flair for the industry, and nudged her over the years towards taking over. After eight years of commuting between San Francisco and the winery, the Freemans built their own home adjacent to the winery in 2009, just before Akiko took over the winemaking reins completely in 2010.

“In making wine, you have to stick with your gut feeling,” explains Akiko, who despite her small stature is hands on with the whole tiring, physical process. “I really enjoy the punchdown,” she adds, describing the laborious task of breaking up the layer of seed, stem and skin that forms on the surface of fermenting red wine, and using a tool to continually submerge the solids to extract tannins, colour and flavour into the wine. She is meticulous and exacting

GLORIA ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2016 Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir Taste: Attention to detail is shown in this bottling, with grapes handpicked block by block due to the site aspect and five varieties of Pinot Noir clones planted in 2008. This was a more restrained vintage, showing cherry and bramble on the nose and firm tannins that will carry this wine through to 2026. $155 RYO-FU CHARDONNAY 2016 Grapes: 100% Chardonnay Taste: Made in a Chablis style, Ryo-fu (meaning ‘cool wind’) is cooled by breezes from the Pacific Ocean.

Its combination of estate fruit imbues a balance of acidity, subtle stone fruit aromas and lemon-cream character, even in a warmer vintage as this. Ready to drink now, there is just a hint of oak from 15-month sur lie ageing in mostly used French oak. $110 AKIKO’S CUVÉE PINOT NOIR 2016 Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir Taste: Akiko’s je ne sais quoi imbues this top blend with an alluring harmony. There’s bright fruit showing toast, herbs and cranberries, yet with a delicacy and silky mouthfeel that belies its length and full bodied structure. A note of umami and stewed fruit lingers on the palate. Best to cellar till 2027 or longer. $180 Available from Giron Wines

in the barrel room, matching each plot of clones to a designated barrel depending on its character, looking for toasted hazelnut or extra tight grains for example. During harvest, you’ll find her with mouthfuls of grapes as she walks the fields, looking for maturity of flavour, even as she decides when to pick to avoid bitter green flavour but with the right level of ripeness.

In a tradition started in 2002, Ed, Akiko and Ken have a ‘friendly competition’ to bottle their preferred blend. The 2002 was based on the vintage of 22 Sonoma Coast barrels, so each of them chose about seven barrels to create their Pinot Noir expression. Akiko won, and thus the Akiko’s Cuvée Pinot Noir was born. She’s won every year since, 15 years running, with her uncanny palate

pinpointing an elusive layering of flavours and umami. As Ken says with a touch of pride, “Akiko’s selection hits every taste bud, it’s a party in the mouth.”

Critics and fans agree, and the winery’s total production of 6,000 cases is snapped up very quickly via mailing list. While Akiko was content to make just one white wine, Ryo-fu, demand was so high for their style of lightly oaked and elegant Chardonnay, that Ken has finally convinced her to make another, Hawk Hill Chardonnay which will be available from the 2017 vintage. “For Chardonnay, the barrel can add elegance, but like makeup, you just need a little,” Akiko describes. Her keen sensibilities and informed palate have yet to be proven wrong.

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CELLAR CHOICE

Worthy year-end sips to ring in 2021 Krug Clos du Mesnil 2006 From a small walled plot in the village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger comes the ponderous, yet lithe 2006 vintage. As with all Clos du Mesnil, the highest expression of Chardonnay from the house, the initial impression is tightly wound, though it soon unfurls delicate white fruits on the nose, and incredibly concentrated layers of brioche and lemon pith, with a hint of sweetness and spice. It is a “virtuoso soloist” in Krug’s description, exuding needlepoint fine bubbles, needing time and attention as it languidly reveals its potential. Drink with a suitable classical music pairing as suggested by the Krug app, with fish or shellfish.

Price on application from shop. themoomba.com and Ambassade outlets: JAAN by Kirk Westaway, Zén, Hashida Sushi

2006 VINTAGE HIGHLIGHTS • Considered a warm year, though there was extreme rainfall as well.

• Grapes can be compared to 2002 and 1989, both generous years.

• Chardonnay displayed ample aromas and classic structure.

FIRST DROP WINES COLD SWEAT SYRAH 2014 Syrah is typically known as Shiraz in Australia – unless it is made in a Rhone-like style, such as this. 100% Syrah from the Craneford vineyard in Eden Valley spent 12 days on skins and thereafter 16 months in new French oak.

A cool vintage sees finer flavours, from the tomato leaf aromas to dark cherry, fine graphite and slight pepperiness in the finish. The eye-catching copper structure label will tarnish in unique ways, making every bottle a canvas for art. Drink now or cellar another 8 years. $126 from maltwineasia.com

BODEGA GARZÓN BALASTO 2017 Tannat originated from southwest France, but has famously found a new home as the ‘national grape’ of Uruguay. At Garzon, one of the newer and most ambitious wineries, their Balasto icon wine takes its name from the ideal granitic soils that imbue energy and complexity to its 50% Tannat, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and 5% Marselan blend. Juicy red and black fruit, silky tannins and hints of wild flowers make this easy to drink now, with a Christmas roast beef. $119 from 1855thebottleshop.com

Singapore’s Best Sommelier in French Wines 2020 is Celine Jung from Park90. The 11th edition of the competition took place on 16 Nov at Origin Bar, where Jung beat out fellow finalists Lucas Liu (also Park90), Alvin Neo (Mott 32), and last year’s champion Daisuke Shibuya (Sun In Moon Japanese Dining). She proceeds in an online match to the Asia finals on 15 Dec alongside champions from Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan, Vietnam, Thailand, South Korea and China for the regional title. Catch it at www.facebook.com/bestsommelierinfrenchwines.

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Three fine white wines made by female winemakers.

LAWSON’S BLIND RIVER TEKAU SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 Lawson’s Dry Hills was started in 1992. It now produces wines in Wairau, Waihopai, Omaka and Awatere Valleys – the latter is where the Blind River Tekau fruit comes from. Wild vineyard yeast starts the fermentation naturally, imbuing a rich, juicy mouthfeel to the wine. This vegan choice is immediately appealing, with its citrus, passion fruit and a touch of oak giving some weight. Try it with risotto, goat’s cheese and fish or chicken. Prolific assistant winemaker Rebecca Wiffin also makes wine with Blind River and The Sisters labels. $63 from crystalwines.com

Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs 2013 Winemaker Cherie Spriggs has released the ninth edition of Nyetimber’s Blanc de Blanc, a milestone wine when it was launched with the 1992 vintage. The estate is the first to plant Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier for English sparkling wine, a category that has since won acclaim globally. The 2013 is slightly reserved, showing a persistent, tight beading with a lively citrus, pear and green apple core and medium toastiness.

Full malolactic fermentation and five years on lees bring a creamy, buttery mouthfeel, finishing with crisp, white peach fruitiness. $138 from analoguewinemerchant.com

2013 VINTAGE • Though cool through to June, a moderately warm and fine summer allowed grapes to ripen gradually and with reasonable yields.

• This followed a cool 2012 when Nyetimber elected not to make any wine at all that vintage due to the poor maturity of grapes. Yields across many British vineyards were down as much as 75%.

• This marked the first year that grapes from Nyetimber’s Hampshire chalk vineyards were used, in addition to the original West Sussex green sand soils.

J.B. BECKER WALLUFER WALKENBERG RIESLING SPÄTLESE TROCKEN 2011 Hans-Josef and Maria Becker are the brothersister duo who took over the family estate in 1971 and continue to make a singular statement on Rheingau wines that defy the typical style. They were one of the first to change to glass Vinolok closures in 2003, which suit their long-lived styles of dry Riesling. Using wild yeast and a quick, warm fermentation, the wines are savoury, layered and complex, and need some air to fully breathe. The Spätlese Trocken has some residual sweetness, but its main character is lean, oxidative on the nose with hazelnuts and wet stones, and ethereal on the palate, giving a bitter orange pith and apricot finish. Price on enquiry from Ares Konsultant, older vintages available.

FULL OF LIFE.

Spa Esprit’s newest concept is also its most ‘supernatural’.

Drunken Farmer is a pop-up natural wine bar which is based at Tiong Bahru Bakery Safari till end June, before travelling to other after-dark locations around town. Operations and wine manager Philippe Chin has selected 90 labels to showcase natural wines which are ‘clean’ and made responsibly, encompassing white, orange, red and Pet Nats from around the world. We spied Christoph Hoch’s Hollenburger Riesling ($14/glass, $70/bottle) and Domaines des Ronces’ Trousseau from Jura ($105/bottle). 130E Minden Road. Keep track of its location on Instagram: @drunkenfarmer_sg

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From top: Blancpain Villeret Quanti; Perpetuel 8 Jours Vera Wang Wedgwood Lace Gold dinner plate; Damsse Or underplate, Daum; Mirella gold cutlery set; Georg Jensen large Cafu gold plated candle holder; Maison Curio table runner; Baccarat Harcourt 1841 Rhine wine glass.

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Have a

hristmas SPARKLY

What better way to usher in the festive season than going all out with these extravagant, indulgent and decadent dishes. Trust us, your guests will swoon with appreciation.

From top: Vera Wang Wedgwood Lace Gold small plate, Wedgwood; Baccarat Noel red crystal tree;.

Chopard High Jewellery Ring in White Gold with Pink Sapphires and Diamond; Chopard High Jewellery Ring in White Gold with Yellow Diamond; Chopard L’Heure du Diamond Quartz Watch in Rose Gold with Rubies and Diamonds; Daum Souffle D’or dinner plate, underplate and dessert plate; All floral arrangements, desserts and cocktails from The Fullerton Hotel Singapore.

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URBOT CONFIT AND SMOKED WITH WHITE TRUFFLE NANTAIS SAUCE

Swap your usual Christmas fowl for turbot.

The mild flavoured fish soaks up the creamy, buttery notes of the white truffle nantais sauce beautifully.

Serves 4 Prep time 1 hour Cook time 20 minutes white truffle nantais sauce 100ml Chardonnay 20ml Champagne vinegar 20g shallots, diced 100ml cream 100g butter, chilled and cubed 30g white truffle paste (available from Amazon.com) » In a small heavy saucepan, simmer wine, vinegar and shallots over moderate heat until liquid is reduced to about one third of the volume. » Add cream and simmer the mixture until slightly thickened. Gradually add butter a few cubes at a time. » Strain the sauce through a fine sieve into another saucepan, before adding the white truffle paste.

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turbot 500ml olive oil 4 sprigs of fresh thyme a pinch of salt 2 cloves of garlic, sliced 4 turbot, skin and bones removed 20ml extra virgin olive oil fleur de sel, to taste

» Blanch the baby carrots, Romanesco florets and beetroot separately in salted boiling water until tender and cooked. » Sauté shallots in butter until translucent.

Then add carrots and Romanesco florets.

Sauté for for 1 minute, then set aside.

Repeat step with beetroot separately and season with salt to taste. Set aside.

» On a pan, heat the olive oil to 65°C. Add fresh sprigs of thyme and sliced garlic. » Lightly season the turbot with fine salt and gently slide into the olive oil. Poach the turbot at 65°C for 15 minutes. » Remove the turbot from the pan and pat the fillet with paper towel to drain off the excess oil. Set the fish aside to rest for 1 minute before drizzling it with extra virgin olive oil and fleur de sel.

assembly 8 caper berries 30g cherry tomatoes 12 edible flowers 12 fennel blossoms 40 alder wood chips

vegetable garnish 80g baby carrots, peeled and trimmed 140g Romanesco florets, trimmed 120g beetroot, peeled and sliced in half 20g shallots 30g butter salt, to taste

» Assemble according to photo on page 90 or as desired. » Just before serving, place the alder wood chips into the camber of the smoking gun.

Ignite and cover the whole dish with a cloche. Place the hose of the smoke gun under the cloche and smoke the dish for 30 seconds. Serve immediately.

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OKKAIDO SEA SCALLOPS AND BLUE LOBSTER OCEAN CARPACCIO, CAVIAR WITH CITRUS AND EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL PEARLS

The sweet, delicate flavours of Hokkaido sea scallop and blue lobster are accented with lemon juice to imbue the dish with a citrussy note. Add extra virgin olive oil pearls for a peppery-floral hint, and Beluga caviar for a briny depth.

Serves 4 Prep time 3 hours Cook time 15 minutes 320g Hokkaido scallops 400g Blue lobster tail and claw meat 50ml lemon juice 100g Beluga caviar (available from Culina) 60g extra virgin olive oil pearls 60g shallots pearls 5g fresh dill 4 Marigold flowers 3g gold and silver flakes

» Place Hokkaido scallops, lobster meat and lemon juice in a zip-lock bag. Chill in the fridge for 3 hours. » Remove the scallops and lobster, and patdry gently on a clean food grade cloth. (Do not rinse or wash with water.) » Slice the scallops and lobster thinly and place an equal amount of scallops and lobster on four plates using a round ring mould. » Garnish with Beluga caviar, extra virgin olive oil pearls, shallots pearls, dill and marigold flower. » Sprinkle with gold and silver flakes just before serving.

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Baccarat Noel red crystal tree; Baccarat Harcourt 1841 Rhine wine glass; Vera Wang Wedgwood Lace Gold sugar box; Daum Souffle D’or version gris dinner plate and underplate; Robinsons Adelia gold and black cutlery set.

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ESTIVE SPICE SOUS VIDE DUCK BREAST WITH ULTRACRISPY SKIN AND CASSIS JUS

The Barbary duck is thin-skinned, low in fat and has deep red, mildly gamey meat.

Coupled with aromatics of orange zest, crushed fennel seeds, cloves, thyme and ginger, it is a dish that will have your guests clamouring for more.

Serves 4 Prep time 1.5 hours Cook time 40 minutes butternut squash purée 250g butternut squash, skinned and diced 30ml olive oil 25g orange blossom honey (available from iherb.com) 30g butter 2g orange skin, grated a pinch of ground cinnamon salt and pepper, to taste » In a bowl, combine butternut squash, olive oil and honey. Toss well. » Bake the tossed butternut squash in a preheated oven at 180°C for 30 minutes. » Place baked butternut in a food processor and blend until smooth. » Gradually add butter, grated orange skin, salt, pepper and cinnamon. Set aside. duck cassis jus 30g shallots, diced 100ml port wine 100ml red wine 600ml duck stock 50g black currants 50ml crème de cassis salt, to taste » In a medium saucepan, add shallots, port wine and bring them to a boil. Then reduce

the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. » Add red wine and continue to simmer until you achieve a glaze consistency. » Add duck stock and black currants. Cook for 30 minutes. » Strain the sauce mixture through a fine sieve in a smaller saucepan. Over low heat, simmer the sauce until a jus-like consistency is reached. Add cassis and cook until the jus reduction sticks to the back of the spoon. duck 2 Barbary duck breast, 220g each a pinch of salt and pepper 20g orange zest 10 fennel seeds, crushed 8 cloves 6 sprigs of fresh thyme 20g ginger, sliced » Score the fat of the duck breasts in a crosshatch pattern. Place the duck breasts on a hot metal skillet and sear for two minutes on each side. » Season the seared duck breasts with salt and pepper, and place it in a zip-lock bag. Add orange zest, fennel seeds, cloves, thyme, and ginger to the bag. » Place the zip-lock bag in a preheated water bath and sous-vide at 56°C for 1.5 hours. » Place the duck breats on a hot iron pan and sear for 30 seconds on each side.

poached pear 250ml white wine 2 cloves 4 baby pears » In a small pot, pour the white wine and bring it to a simmer. Add the cloves and the pears in and cook it until the pear turns tender. Strain the pear. Set aside. assembly 120g Romanesco broccoli, trimmed into florets 15g shallots, diced 2 large banana shallots, lightly roasted 20g crème fraîche 15g Amaranth flower (available from farmdelight.com.sg) » Blanch Romanesco broccoli in salted boiling water until tender and cooked.

Sauté shallots in a small pan until translucent. Add Romanesco broccoli and sauté for another minute. » Place one slice of the duck breast on each plate. Arrange one half of the roasted banana shallots cup next to the duck and pour equal amounts of duck cassis jus into the banana shallot. Add sautéed Romanesco broccoli, poached pear and butternut squash purée to the plate and dots of crème fraîche. » Garnish the duck breasts with fresh thyme and amaranth flower.

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Jasper Conran Platinum stripe plate; Vera Wang Wedgwood Lace Gold coffee cup & saucer; Baccarat Noel gold crystal tree; Robinsons Georg Jensen Cafu gold vase.

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ERUVIAN WHITE ASPARAGUS, FLOWER GARDEN SALAD, SEVILLE ORANGE GEL AND TRUFFLE CRÈME FRAÎCHE

The white asparagus has a bitter-nutty-earthy profile that makes it a chef’s favourite. Here, it’s wonderfully paired with citrusy orange gel and truffle-scented crème fraîche.

Serves 4 Prep time 1.5 hours Cook time 20 minutes asparagus 8 Peruvian white asparagus, peeled 1 litre water 5g sea salt 50ml lemon juice 40g butter » Snap the ends off the asparagus at their natural break and trim all asparagus to the same length. » Place water, sea salt, lemon juice and butter in a shallow saucepan and bring to a simmer, then add the asparagus. Allow it to simmer over low heat for about 20 minutes until tender, then transfer asparagus onto a tray lined with food grade paper towel to drain the excess water. Set aside and keep warm.

Seville orange gel 250ml Seville orange juice 20g sugar 3g agar powder

» Place orange juice in a small saucepot and bring to a boil, then reduce heat. » Add sugar and agar powder, and simmer for 3 minutes until the mixture thickens.

Pour the mixture into a shallow tray, cool and store for 1 hour in the chiller until the mixture has set. » Cut the set gel into smaller pieces and blend until smooth. Transfer the gel into a squeeze bottle and set aside. truffle crème fraîche 120g crème fraîche 5ml truffle oil salt, to taste » In a small bowl, whisk crème fraîche until smooth, then fold in the truffle oil. Season with salt. tomato confit 150ml olive oil 4 baby tomatoes » Pour olive oil in a small pot and let it simmer. Add the tomatoes and sauté for 30 seconds. » Make a very thin slice on the skin of the tomato and peel the upper portion upwards. Set aside.

assembly 15ml olive oil 4 large morel mushrooms, trimmed 12 shiso cress 12 sprigs of fresh dill marigold and edible flowers » Heat olive oil in small sauté pan, add fresh morel mushrooms and sauté for 1 minute over medium high heat. » Place 3 medium size dots of orange gel towards right side of the plate and 3 of crème fraîche towards the left side of the plate, leaving the center of the plate empty. » Using a teaspoon, place the spoon in the center of the dots and pull the spoon towards you in a slightly curved angle, creating a teardrop design. Repeat with the remaining three plates. » Place two pieces of the warm poached white asparagus in the centre of each plate and garnish the asparagus with equal amounts of shiso cress, dill and edible flowers. Place the sautéed morel and vine-ripened tomato confit on each end opposite side of the asparagus and serve.

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IRAMISU WITH SPECULOOS BISCUIT CRUMBLE

Creamy rich mascarpone mousse, bitter-sweet almond, fragrant coffee, aromatic spices and a crunchy Speculoos biscuit crumble, what not to love about this dessert?

Serves 1 Prep time 2 hours Cook time 1 hour

coffee syrup 150ml espresso 30g sugar

mascarpone mousse 260g sugar 180ml water 140g egg yolks 500g mascarpone cheese 8 gelatine sheets 500ml whipped cream

» Mix all the ingredients together.

» Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan over a low heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. » In a mixing bowl whisk the egg yolks until creamy. Then gradually add the hot sugar syrup into the yolks and beat on full speed, for 5 minutes until the egg yolk foam is firm. » Add mascarpone cheese to the egg yolk mixture and combine well. » Soak the gelatine sheets in cold water until soft, remove from water and drain » Warm 50ml of cream in small sauce pan.

Add the soft gelatine sheets until dissolved. » Whip the remaining 450ml cream until stiff. » Add the whipped cream and soft gelatine to the mixture.

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ladyfinger sponge 280g egg white 230g sugar 180g egg yolk a pinch of salt 230g flour » Place egg white and sugar in mixing bowl of an electric mixer and whisk until medium peak. Add egg yolks and combine well. Then fold in salt and flour. » Pour the lady finger sponge mixture on baking tray bake at 190°C for 10 minutes. » Once done, cool the sponge cake. With an 8 cm and 11 cm diameter stainless cutter, cut the baked sponge in to round disks and set aside. speculoos spice biscuit crumble 150g butter 180g brown sugar 45g white sugar 30g eggs 15ml milk 300g flour 8g speculoos spice a pinch of salt 8g baking powder

» In a mixing bowl, whisk the butter until creamy. Add 150g of brown sugar and white sugar, and continue to whisk for 4 minutes. » Then add eggs and milk to the mix.

After mixing for 30 seconds, combine flour, speculoos spice, salt, baking powder and 30g of brown sugar. Mix for another minute. » Remove dough from the mixing bowl, wrap it with cling film and store it in chiller for an hour. » Roll out the dough to 5mm in thickness and bake at 180°C for 15 minutes. » After removing the cookies from the oven, allow it to cool before placing it in a food processor. Blend the cookies until crumbly. assembly » Dip the ladyfingers sponge in the espresso mixture until soaked but not soggy. » Transfer the mascarpone mousse into a piping bag. » Place 35g of speculoos crumbs on the bottom of each of the four glass globs and lay one small soaked sponge circle each on top of the speculoos mixture. Then pipe a layer of mascarpone mousse on top of the ladyfingers. » Add another layer of large sized ladyfingers and mascarpone mousse. Dust the last layer of the tiramisu with icing sugar or sugar pearls.

Noel silver snow flake and Noel clear annual ornament, Baccarat.

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Concept ADELINE WONG Art direction and styling YONG WOEI NA Photos EDMOND HO Videography by TU JIE RUI Text VICTORIA LIM Recipes MICHAEL GREMER OF THE FULLERTON HOTEL SINGAPORE Shot at THE FULLERTON HOTEL SINGAPORE

Cake stand and Baroque white Moka teapot; Wedgwood Jasper Conran Platinum stripe plate.

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S

AFFRON WHITE POACHED PEARS WITH STAR ANISE AND CARAMEL SUGAR SPUN

Feast your eyes on these colourful poached pears and the accompanying beautiful caramel sugar spun masterpiece.

Serves 4 Prep time 20 minutes Cook time 35 minutes

» Combine white wine, lemon skin, vanilla bean, sugar, star anise, saffron, and salt in a medium saucepan over medium heat.

Continue to stir until the sugar dissolves. » Add pears to the mixture, then cover pan with a lid until the pears are tender but not too soft. » Remove pears from the mixture and set them aside to cool. » In the same pan, increase heat and boil the poaching liquid until it is thick and syrupy. Set aside.

» Place baking paper on the work table. Lightly oil the handles of two wooden spoons, then place the wooden spoons on the baking paper 20cm apart from each other. » Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan over very low heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. » Once the sugar has dissolved, stop stirring the mix, and cooking it until it’s golden in colour or it reaches 155°C on the sugar thermometer. » Allow the sugar mixture to cool slightly before dipping two forks into it. Join the forks together, back to back. In quick succession run the sugar mixture back and forth over the wooden spoon’s handles, allowing the threads to fall over the handle.

The quicker the motion, the thinner the strands will be. The syrup will fall over the handle, right down on the nonstick paper. » Using your hands, gently gather up the spun sugar strands and shape around each pear.

caramel spun sugar 125g caster sugar 30ml water

assembly » Assemble according to photo or as desired.

saffron white poached pears 750ml white wine 30g lemon skin 1 vanilla bean, halved 150g sugar 4 star anise ½tsp saffron threads a pinch of salt 4 Bosc pears, peeled

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RAISING THE BAR

DRINKING & HEALING CURES ALL Located in a historic French colonial house in Ho Chi Minh City, Drinking & Healing provides patrons a reprieve from the busy city behind their exposed brick walls. Dim lighting, as well as glass and metal accents, create a relaxing ambience of luxury.

Whether you’ve had a rough day at work or are just in need of a little fun, the bar’s “healers” are experts at mixing crowdpleasing craft cocktails and lifting your mood.

With an unlimited supply of quality spirits, you can ask for any classic cocktail from their carefully curated menu or let the mixologists behind the bar get creative and mix a unique beverage that’s perfectly suited to your tastes. For those in need of something more substantial, the burger at Drinking & Healing is often raved about and pairs nicely with their quality drink menu. L2, 25 Ho Tung Mau Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 934 110 110

JAPANESE FLAVOUR MEETS VIETNAMESE ASTHETIC

IT’S TIME FOR A COCKTAIL AT 2 LAM SON The stunningly decorated bar 2 Lam Son calls the lobby level of the Park Hyatt home. Their bright, contemporary decor is stylishly crafted with upscale, polished timber, stunning glass light fixtures and intricate brass accents. Guests come for the atmosphere of elegance but stay for the premium assortment of wines, cocktails, local and imported beers and more.

Their happy hour runs daily from 5 pm - 8 pm and provides guests 50% off of their drink bill, not including bottles. They often host live performances and designer DJs to elevate guests’ spirits and match the bright, vibrant energy in the room. For those feeling peckish, they also serve a bar and snack menu of delicious dishes. 2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3824 1234

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Sake Central Saigon is one of the greatest celebrations of Japanese culture in Ho Chi Minh City. Not only do they share with their patrons a fine selection of some of the world’s best sakes from both large and small breweries in Japan, but they serve them with grace and elegance. Take part in their intimate tastings or admire the stunning Japanese ceramics, sakes and other goods for sale.

Not only is Sake Central Saigon a great place for date nights, but also private events. If desired, the entire bar can be booked out for parties and transformed into an intimate izakaya experience where they serve upscale Japanese dishes and spirits. Inside, their bright and beautiful long seating is perfect for an elegant gathering to appreciate the beauty of Japanese culture through food and beverages. 59 Dong Du Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3939 0022

ESCAPE THE CITY Designed by the forward-thinking The Lab Saigon, Madam Kew is a cocktail bar that packs a punch. The inspiration behind the bar’s name – a spy who arrived on Vietnamese shores from Shanghai – means the venue showcases an abundance of delicate Chinoiserie pieces, adding to the bar’s allure and charm. The intimate atmosphere, neon yet warm under lights and statement furnishings make Madam Kew the perfect venue for enjoying regular live music and DJs. The crafted cocktail menu offers bespoke cocktails like the “Stay in Bangkok” which utilise fresh and fragrant ingredients and are beautifully presented. Be sure to enjoy a welldeserves drink while escaping the city with this new gem. 37bis Ky Con Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3821 8661

FEELING SPRITZY Caravelle Hotel’s latest endeavor has seen them partner with the Campo Group to introduce the newest addition to their premier dining and wining outlets: the Aperol Spritz Bar. Tucked to the side of the Dong Khoi entrance, the small – yet mighty – bar provides a dynamic and lively atmosphere and the chance to enjoy a unique menu of cocktails and apertivo. As the name suggests, the invigorating and effervescent Aperol Spritz, a classic Italian apéritif combining Aperol, Prosecco and soda, is undoubtedly the star of the show and makes for the perfect pre-dinner drink.

Open until late, Caravelle Hotel’s Aperol Spritz Bar is the place to be for those seeking to awaken the senses with a round of aperitif while admiring iconic Saigon views. For more information, please call (84) 906 900 523 or email: culinary@caravellehotel.com

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THE BEST-KEPT SECRET

RUM AWAY TOGETHER Saigon’s first bar dedicated to the West Indies spirit, Rum, FAVELA promises a vibrant and spirited ambience which pays homage to three pillars of favela life: family, hustle and rum. The bar’s warm and rustic interior makes for the perfect venue for a bar specialising in such a warming spirit while the dim lighting creates a cozy and inviting atmosphere where one can easily forget about life outside of FAVELA’s four walls.

The menu boasts an impressively lengthy assortment of handpicked rums from around the world and with over thirty different rums to sample, FAVELA is surely a bar which will have patrons of rum returning again and again. Whether you feel like enjoying rum from Puerto Rico, Nicaragua, Guatemala or staying local with home-brewed Vietnamese rum, FAVELA has you covered.

What’s more, the rum-based Signature Cocktails such as the “You Can’t Escape Favela” featuring rum, whisky islay mist peated, early grey tea and cordial perfectly encapsulate the creative spirit that underpins Favela. 1st Floor 25 Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Tel: +84 764 461 816

Hidden, bespoke and brilliant, Blanche Saigon is a true speakeasy whereby guests must exercise their skills of deduction to find this wonder. Located above a Ministop and accessed via an unassuming elevator, the journey to arriving at Blanche Bar + Dessert only adds to its unique charm. One in the venue, guests are sure to be impressed by the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Mac Thi Buoi as well as the bar team’s unrivalled service and the captivating test-kitchen style counter.

The extensive drinks menu playfully blends sweet and savoury to create mesmerising beverages that showcase the mixologists’ mastery. The cocktails’ names are as creative as their flavours and the ‘Slave to Nicotine’ fuses whisky with sous vide pandan, fermented apricot, absinthe and Angostura bitters. With its contemporary style, decadent desserts and forwardthinking cocktail menu, it comes as no surprise that Blanche is a firm favourite of cocktail connoisseurs.

Floor 6th, 16 Mac Thi Buoi Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 6266 3535

CREATIVE NAMES, CURATED COCKTAILS Rabbit Hole identifies itself as an avant-garde classic cocktail bar and its radical menu and uniquely experimental interior mean it lives up to this identity. The bar radiates unrivalled levels of sophistication and features elegant lighting, avant-garde artwork and a beautiful grand piano, making it the perfect venue when it opens its doors to live bands.

The cocktails are all exceptionally presented and boast magically unique names that reflect the quirky nature and fun-spirit of Rabbit Hole. With “The Diplomat”, guests can enjoy a citrusy kick thanks to the combination of orange bitters with Rosso vermouth, dry vermouth and maraschino liquor. Cocktails like the “Zaza” and the “Rusty Nail” harmoniously couple just two ingredients, respectively gin with dubonnet and whisky with Drambuie, yet still promise heaven in a glass. 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street, Ben Nge Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3823 4896

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BACK TO THE ROARING ‘20S Kumquat Tree is an authentic speakeasy bar located in the vibrant district of Hoan Kiem. To enter, you must have the special passcode to get through their eye-catching red wooden door. As you step into this aesthetically pleasing updated traditional shophouse, take in the east-meets-west influences that make Kumquat Tree distinctively unique. With exposed brick and beautiful hardwood flooring that covers both levels, groups enjoy great conversation while sipping expertly curated cocktails.

Local mixologists at Kumquat Tree have devised an exquisite list of ten signature cocktails using premium alcohol. They also offer choice wines and other spirits for guests. Take part in their nightly after work special when cocktails and drinks are mixed for only VND 95,000. Stop by on Fridays or Saturdays to enjoy a lively evening of dancing while guest DJs spin the best genres of music. 1 Nguyen Khac Can Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 98 268 53 35

COMFORT AND COCKTAILS

A CULINARY RENDEZVOUS

Newly renovated into the stylish space that it is today, Angelina in the Metropole Hotel of Hanoi serves not only a fabulous set of cocktails and whisky but also a modern menu of international recipes. Great care goes into the creation of their gourmet comfort dishes, and only the freshest seasonal fruits and vegetables are used. One of their most famous menu items is their 12-hour Wagyu beef short ribs served with truffle mash and a red wine reduction.

Angelina also specialises in rare and vintage whiskies and skillfully prepares delicious cocktails every evening. Enjoy their popular angel-in-a-box cocktail that combines a ten-year whisky from Talisker with applewood smoke, Oloroso sherry and shiitake tincture. Take the night off with one of their whisky creations or classic cocktails in their beautiful modern and contemporary twolevel bar and restaurant. 15 Ngo Quyen Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 24 3826 6919

Located in the Somerset Westpoint Tay Ho Luxury Apartments, MAD Society is an upscale modern Asian dining experience. Their vintageinspired decor is very pleasing on the eyes, while their culinary options are a delight to your taste buds. The cuisine is a fusion of Asian flavours and features international spices such as Vietnamese fermented fish sauce and Korean kimchi. They serve a delectable assortment of Asian style tapas that pair excellently with their wine selection.

Wet your whistle with any one of their heavenly cocktails mixed with only the finest spirits. Or indulge in their collection of vintage whiskies which is one of the largest in all of Hanoi, with over 200 varieties. Enjoy their happy hour offered daily and get 50% off glass drinks between 5 and 8 pm. Fridays come alive at MAD Society with live jazz performances and free cocktails for the ladies from 8-10pm.

4F Somerset West Point, No.2 Tay Ho, Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 24 7109 9298

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WHERE YOUR PERFECT COCKTAIL AWAITS YOU

A HAVEN FOR ALL GIN ENTHUSIASTS Tucked away in Hanoi’s vibrant Old Quarter, is the art deco-inspired MAD Botanist Gin Bar. Inside, dark timber wall panels, polished wood floors and gleaming brass fixtures exude a luxe sophistication. The walls are lined with some of the finest gins from around the world as well as other spirits used in their creative cocktail offerings. Once inside, you immediately feel like you’ve stepped back in time to the speakeasy era.

From the bar, enjoy stunning rooftop views of Hanoi’s famous old cathedral right across the street.

Their gin tasting menu offers gin enthusiasts the opportunity to sample up to eight different types of gin that are paired with exquisite garnishes and Thomas Henry tonic. Their stylish menu provides guests with detailed information as to the origins and types of gin in a demonstration of their expertise. While gin is their speciality, their creative cocktail menu of other spirits, wine and beer is also something to marvel at. 45 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 24 2246 4123

Gallery Bespoke Cocktail Bar is a classic and upscale purveyor of craft cocktails.

Creativity is greatly valued in this industrial-style venue, and you feel it from the retro leather seating to the art gallery covering much of the exposed brick walls.

The timber flooring and leather armchairs are the definition of sophistication as well as the expertly curated wall of spirits that are lit by beautiful light fixtures.

Stop in to enjoy their comprehensive menu of aperitifs. They serve their own unique signature cocktails and categorize them by taste profile, making it easy to find the drink you crave. Enjoy creations that espouse flavours such as spice, herbal, floral, sour and sweet. They also serve modern classics and add a contemporary spin on beloved recipes. If you’re feeling more lively, enjoy one of their bespoke bottles of spirits like gin, rum, whiskey or vodka and the bartenders will happily whip up a delicious personalized cocktail for you. 95 Phung Hung, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 94 111 14 20

AN EVENING OF INTRIGUE AND MURDER Jigger Cocktail & Wine Bar boasts high-quality cocktails that only use the best fresh and local ingredients. The mixologists at Jigger take great care to produce classics with a special twist that please the palettes of their guests. All of their cocktails follow a theme of “murder mystery” with 20 unique recipes named after various characters in their imaginative murder narrative. If that wasn’t enough creativity in a drink menu, their specials are served with an eye-catching delivery.

Guests enjoy their creative cocktails in a beautiful industrial space. The exposed brick, black and white wall hangings and eye-catching bottle display truly embody the era of speakeasies. Not only are they renowned for their intriguing cocktails, but they also host a vibrant music scene and where various live music and DJ perform an array of different genres.

Enjoy hip-hop, r&b, house music and more. 59 Nam Ngu Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 94 888 84 20

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TIPPLE TIPS

Jump-start 2021 on a lighter note. Quench your thirst with a Seedlip cocktail that relies on layers of flavour rather than alcohol for a sophisticated sip. Head to Wild Honey Mandarin Gallery for your Seedlip fix.

Raspberry and thyme shrub • • • • •

250g raspberries 8 thyme sprigs 6 kaffir lime leaves 250g caster sugar 125ml apple cider vinegar • 125ml verjuice » Combine all

ingredients in a Mason jar and muddle to release flavours. » Screw on the lid, give a shake, and leave overnight. Strain through a fine strainer the next day.

Little Red Dot

Know your botanicals

• 50ml Seedlip Spice 94 • 40ml cold chamomile tea • 25ml thyme and raspberry shrub • 10ml cherry cordial belimbing flowers, for garnish

Alcohol-free Seedlip ‘spirits’ contain all the flavour but no ABV, thanks to a secret distillation technique.

Its heavier variant, Spice 94, brings out notes from warming Allspice berry and cardamom, with oak and grapefruit peel for a pleasant tannic and bitter finish.

» Add crushed ice to a

mixing glass, and add all ingredients except garnish.

Stir then strain into a vintage cocktail glass, topped with fresh crushed ice and garnished with flowers.

thyme sprigs

apple cider vinegar

kaffir lime leaves

raspberries

cherry cordial

PHOTOGRAPHY EDDIE TEO STYLING DARRYL PESTANA RECIPE MICHAEL HAN, PLAN B ASIA

earl grey tea

belimbing flowers epicurevietnam 141

AT H O M E W I T H

Cooking with love

I

t is said that a couple that eats together, stays together. For Cintia Tavella and her husband Gilberto Gaeta, they have taken this one step further – by also cooking together. Nowhere is their passion for the culinary arts more obvious than in their penthouse in Whampoa. Step through the main door and the kitchen is just inside the entrance.

“We enjoy cooking and entertaining, which is why we made the kitchen the centre of our home,” says 39-year-old Tavella, the senior director of Strategic Growth Initiatives at Expedia Group.

A space to entertain Renovated in 2017 and designed with the help of interiors firm Space Matters, the duplex apartment was conceptualised to enable the couple to host home parties almost every weekend. While the simmering, boiling and baking takes place in where the actual kitchen is originally located, the areas flanking it are dedicated to food preparation and presentation.

There is a dry kitchen on one side and on the other, a custom-built, exposed pantry filled with bottles of wine, cans

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of produce from Italy, where Gaeta hails from, and all the necessary accoutrements to serve drinks of every kind. An island sits in the middle of this, specially installed with wheels so it can be rolled around when necessary. It doubles up as an informal dining table to have a casual family meal at, or to enjoy pre-dinner snacks.

When guests come over, the main entertaining is held on the second floor. There, a wraparound terrace dominates, featuring an outdoor sofa set in one section, and an eight-seater dining set in the another.

The entire home is done in an industrial-chic-meets-rustic style, as evident in the light fittings, wall tiles that look like bricks (chosen for the sense of warmth they evoke), concrete screed flooring and rebars in place of a staircase banister.

Friends from around the world Tavella, who was born in Argentina, shares that they usually have their buddies or colleagues over for a meal, “Gil and I love to cook so we ask our friends to be our guinea pigs.”

PHOTOGRAPHY MUNSTER

Devoted to gastronomy and entertaining, husband-and-wife pair Gilberto Gaeta and Cintia Tavella are living proof that strong relationships are cultivated in the kitchen.

By Low Shi Ping

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Once every few months, she and Gaeta, 40, who works as a director of marketing solutions at Google, also host an INSEAD Random Dinner. This is a dinner party held by an alumni of the business school, where other fellow alumni are invited to partake in. Food aside, it is an opportunity to get to know others from the 3,200-strong INSEAD community. These could be complete strangers or acquaintances.

Naturally, both Tavella and Gaeta are alumni – they met there in 2007 while studying their MBA – and readily give back to their alma mater. She is also the president of the INSEAD Alumni Association of Singapore.

This evening, they are hosting another Random Dinner with four other guests in attendance. “We try to keep the total number to six because we want to have only one conversation at the table.

There is more intimacy this way,” Tavella shares.

The cuisine served is what she calls “Italo-Argentine”, a fusion of food from their birth countries, which they take joy in showcasing.

On the menu is a Mediterranean cold cuts platter, made up of cured meats and cheese the couple brought back from a recent trip to

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Italy – something they are fond of doing. There is also a cannelloni pasta, veal ribs and strawberry tiramisu.

Many of the recipes of the food they serve are adapted from both their parents who love to cook. Gaeta shares that the pasta recipe is his father’s. “I called him a few days ago to confirm the steps of the recipe and to get his secret tips. My father hung up, had a fight with my mother about the right answer, then called me back a few hours later to tell me what to do,” he laughs.

Tavella chimes in, “It’s funny because our parents cook separately, but Gil and I prefer to do it together.” In fact, it is so second nature to them that a few nights ago before this dinner, they found themselves once again in the kitchen preparing the strawberry tiramisu side by side. Gaeta had just returned home from a business trip to the Philippines and despite the late hour, gamely joined Tavella in the kitchen to create the dessert.

“It was only after we were done that I realised it was Valentine’s Day,” muses Tavella. “We didn’t celebrate it but instead, spent it making tiramisu together into the night – in a way, that is a celebration of who we are.”

Baked veal ribs with asparagus and cream of pumpkin

BAKED VEAL RIBS WITH ASPARAGUS AND CREAM OF PUMPKIN Serves 6 Prep time 40 minutes Cook time 25 minutes veal ribs • 2.5kg roast veal prime rib with bone seasoning mixture • 1 tbsp onion powder • 2 tbsp ground black pepper • 1 tbsp salt • 5 garlic cloves, peeled and cut in half • 4 tbsp finely ground thyme • 60ml Dijon mustard cream of pumpkin • ¼ pumpkin • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (Spanish, Italian or Greek brands are the best) • 1½ tsp fine Kosher salt • 1½ tsp white pepper • ½ tsp nutmeg • 2 tbsp cooking cream

» Bake for 25 minutes or the duration needed

» Once oven is heated, place the asparagus on

to obtain an internal temperature of about

a piece of baking paper in the oven.

asparagus

60°C for medium-rare doneness or 65°C for

» Cook for 7 to 10 minutes until soft and crispy.

• 18 asparagus

medium-well doneness.

• 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

» Remove the meat from the oven and stand

Presentation

• 1 tsp Kosher salt

for 15 minutes before slicing.

» Use a tablespoon to spread the pumpkin

• 1 tsp black pepper

cream on the side of the plate to form a For the cream of pumpkin

half-moon shape.

For the veal ribs

» Boil the pumpkin for 10 minutes until soft.

» Add the veal ribs on the opposite side

» Position the oven rack in the middle level

» Drain the water and put in a blender with all

» Place two to three asparagus at the centre

and preheat the oven to 180°C.

the other ingredients.

of the plate, between the veal ribs and the

» Combine all the dry ingredients with

» Blend till it reaches a creamy consistency,

pumpkin cream.

Dijon mustard in a bowl.

taste and add more salt and pepper as

» Pour a tablespoon of jus from the baking

» Cut 10 slits into the veal meat and stuff

preferred.

pan on top of the veal ribs, and another tablespoon of jus on the asparagus.

garlic cloves into the slits. » Rub the meat thoroughly with all the

For the asparagus

ingredients of the seasoning mixture.

» Heat oven to 200°C

» Place the meat on the baking sheet,

» Season the asparagus with salt, pepper and

fat side up.

olive oil.

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CANNELLONI FILLED WITH RICOTTA AND SPINACH

Cannelloni filled with ricotta and spinach

Serves 6 Prep time 1 hour Cooking time 25 minutes pasta • 200g 00 flour • 2 medium sized eggs filling • 450g spinach • 1 garlic clove • 300g ricotta cheese • 15g extra virgin olive oil • 2 medium sized eggs

béchamel and tomato sauce

• 100g grated Parmesan cheese

• 100ml olive oil

• 1 pinch oregano

• 2 tsp salt

• 1 pinch nutmeg powder

• 2 garlic cloves

• 1 litre of milk

• 1 tsp black pepper

• 3-4 tsp salt

• 400g tomato sauce

• 100g butter

• 1 pinch nutmeg

• 3 tsp black pepper

• 2 tsp salt

• 100g 00 flour

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» Once rested, divide dough into two equal

completely. Add flour and stir quickly. After 2-3

parts. With a pasta machine set to level 8, roll

minutes, remove from heat and pour hot milk.

out dough to obtain a sheet about 2mm thick.

Stir constantly and season béchamel by adding

In the absence of a pasta machine, roll by

a pinch of salt, pepper and grated nutmeg.

hand using a lightly floured rolling pin. Obtain

» Continue to cook over a moderate flame for

rectangles 9cm by 14cm, or any shape, but

5-6 minutes, until desired density is obtained.

take into account the width of the pan.

» Mix béchamel and tomato sauce in a glass

» Scald pasta one at a time for about 1 minute

bowl and cover with contact film.

in boiling, slightly salted water.

» Set aside 50-75ml of béchamel to be used

» Drain and transfer them on a tray covered

for the final presentation.

with a kitchen cloth. Spread the various rectangles perfectly without overlapping them.

Preparing the cannelloni » Take baking pan and spread two generous

For the filling

tablespoons of sauce (béchamel mixed with

» Pour olive oil into a pan, add garlic, let it

tomato sauce) at the bottom.

brown then remove it.

» Take each pasta layer and place about 100g

» Pour spinach (well-washed and drained), salt

of stuffing with the sac à poche in the centre.

and cook. Cover for about 5 minutes until they

Roll the pasta to form cylinders and place

are wilted. Let them cool.

them in the baking pan.

» Chop coarsely with a knife. Pour into a large

» Once cannelloni are aligned in pan, pour

bowl, add ricotta cheese, stir with a fork and

the rest of the sauce on top. As a final, purely

add eggs. Add salt, pepper and nutmeg and

cosmetic touch, spread two tablespoons of

mix everything. Add grated cheese and mix.

béchamel (not mixed with tomato) on top

For the pasta

» Transfer the mixture into a sac à poche and

of the sauce, in order to obtain a contrast

» Pour 150g of flour into a bowl. Add slightly

store in the refrigerator.

of white (the bechamel sauce) and red (the bechamel mixed with tomato sauce).

beaten eggs and knead with hands until the ingredients are mixed.

For the béchamel and tomato sauce

» Sprinkle some Parmesan cheese on top.

» Transfer dough onto a pastry board and

» Heat olive oil in a saucepan over low heat

» Pre-heat the oven at 180°C, bake the

knead it again. Add remaining 50g of flour

and add garlic. Fry briefly and add tomato

cannelloni for 20 minutes, then activate the

gradually until dough becomes smooth, and

sauce.

grill mode and keep in the oven for about 5

homogeneous.

» Simmer 10–15 minutes. Add salt and oregano.

minutes to obtain a golden crust at the top.

» Wrap it with food foil and rest for 1 hour in a

» Heat milk separately.

» Serve 2 cannelloni per person while

cool and dry place to retain elasticity.

» In another pan, pour butter and let it melt

still warm.

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Asparagus-Bacon Rolls

ASPARAGUS-BACON ROLLS

SMOKED SALMONMOZZARELLA-TOMATO STICKS

Serves 6 Prep time 10-15 minutes

Serves 6 Prep time 10 minutes

• 2 boxes of thin Thai asparagus • A pack of bacon or pancetta if you like it

• 1 pack of mini mozzarella balls (from a brand

more greasy (at least 6 slices)

like Galbani)

• 3 tsp salt

• 250g of smoked salmon

• 1 tsp black pepper

• 12 sweet cherry tomatoes

• 3 tbsp olive oil

• 12 fresh basil leaves

• decorative toothpicks

• 2 tbsp of olive oil • a dash of salt

» Heat the oven to 180°C. Put the asparagus

• decorative toothpicks

seasoned with salt, pepper and olive oil on baking paper to grill in the oven for 10 minutes

» Cut the mini mozzarella balls, smoked salmon

or until crunchy.

and cherry tomatoes into slices and place each in

» Separately, heat up a grilling pan and put

separate bowls.

some olive oil on it. Once it is hot, add slices

» Assemble every stick by starting with a

of bacon and flip them until they are grilled on

mozzarella ball, followed by two slices of smoked

both sides.

salmon and then a cherry tomato.

» Once the asparagus and bacon are ready, roll

» Make at least 12 sticks and arrange in a

each asparagus with a slice of bacon and tie it

serving tray.

with a toothpick.

» Cut the basil in small pieces (or use a blender if

» Sprinkle a dash of pepper on top before

preferred). Add the olive oil and salt. Mix well with

serving.

a spoon and sprinkle on top of the sticks to give a fresh, herbal flavour.

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Smoked Salmon-MozzarellaTomato Sticks

Strawberry Tiramisu

STRAWBERRY TIRAMISU Serves 6 Prep time 30 minutes + min 4 hours setting in the fridge • 250g strawberries • 1 tbsp sugar • 120g ladyfinger (“Savoiardi”) biscuits • ½ cup of rum or Cointreau for a more citrusy flavour For the cream • 4 fresh eggs • 500g mascarpone cheese • 120g fine white sugar » Wash the strawberries and cut 200g of them

into small pieces. » Place the cut strawberries in small pot with

½ cup of water and start cooking over a slow

» Add the mascarpone cheese (without any

» Soak the ladyfinger biscuits in the

fire for about 7 minutes until they become

residual milk from the container) and mix until

strawberry juice and line them in a single layer

glossy.

you get a homogeneous cream.

in the bottom of a baking dish.

» Add rum and stir for another minute.

» In another bowl, whip the egg whites until

» Spread a layer of mascarpone mixture,

» Blend the strawberries with their

they become firm and snow-like.

leveling it well. Repeat layering once or twice,

juice until you obtain a homogeneous,

» Add them to the cream in the first bowl one

depending on the depth of the baking dish.

semi-dense mixture.

spoon at the time.

» Leave in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours.

» Separate the egg whites from the yolks,

» Fold gently, always in the same direction

» Before serving, cover with a layer of

then put the yolks in a bowl and beat

(do not whisk or stir, or the cream will be

crumbled ladyfinger biscuits and decorate the

with sugar.

too liquid).

surface with strawberries.

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S E E N & S AVO U R E D

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux 2017 Vintage Wine Tasting at the Park Hyatt Saigon At the Park Hyatt Saigon on November 27th, Red Apron Fine Wines & Spirits together with Celliers d’Asie were the sole retail partners who hosted the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux 2017 Vintage Wine Tasting event. With 450 guests including wine enthusiasts, media personnel, and influencers such as designer Li Lam, and musician Duc Tri, this is the second time Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Tasting (UGCB) has been held in Vietnam by Red Apron since the first event in 2011.

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his exclusive wine tasting event brought in the most remarkable tasting of the year with 62 red wines, 8 white wines, and 3 sweet wines from 2017 vintages. The brands came from 62 Chateaux from Bordeaux such as Château Carbonnieux, Château Canon, Château Giscours, Château Beychevelle, Château Valandraud, and Château Clinet.

The event also included 32 experienced sommeliers from Red Apron, Celliers d’Asie, and Saigon Sommeliers Association who hold prestigious certifications such as WSET and Certified Sommelier.

The Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux was started by a small group of estate owners during a trip to Japan in the early 1970s with the aim of developing promotional initiatives around the world. It was soon followed by a number of other fine-wine producers who wanted to extend their reputations beyond their own borders. Over the years, the Union increased the number to 131 top estates from the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations.

Annually, the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux organizes 80 tasting events around the world, which include 15 different country visits per year: Europe (Germany, UK, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Netherlands, Russia), North America (US and Canada) and Asia (China, Japan, South Korea, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore and Vietnam). During the Asian 2020 Tour, 65 cities were visited within Japan, China, Taiwan, Korea, Hongkong and Vietnam.

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S E E N & S AVO U R E D

Feasting with fame From the 23th to the 29th of November the Italian Cuisine Week celebrated all around the globe. In Vietnam, the rich calendar of related events stretched from the 12th November to the 13th December!

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he Italian Cuisine Week in the World is an initiative involving the whole network of 296 diplomatic and consular missions and Italian Cultural Institutes to promote the Italian culinary culture, which is at the core of the Mediterranean diet and so central to the Italian identity and lifestyle. Over a thousand events will be organized around the world during this week, to promote the Italian cuisine and its regional varieties.

Over 10 events were in calendar for this edition, organized in cooperation with many local partners in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang and Nha Trang.

They included masterclasses with Italian chefs and sommeliers, food and wine tastings and pairings, cultural events and exhibitions, cooking classes, Italian products fair in deli stores, thematic lunches and dinners with Vietnamese celebrities and Italian protagonists of the culinary scene in Vietnam.

Last but not least, dozens of Italian restaurants all over Vietnam, from Hanoi to HCMC, from Da Nang to Nha Trang, from Vung Tau to Da Lat, presented for the occasion authentic and original Italian specialties and menus, at an affordable price, to be made available to customers from 12th to 29th November 2020.

The ambition was to raise attention on the Italian cuisine and products, their connection with conviviality, hospitality, lifestyle and healthiness, but also on the enrichment driven by exchanges between Italian and Vietnamese culinary traditions.

The activities were also a way to pay homage to the entrepreneurs and the workers of the Italian restaurants, a sector that strongly contributes to our economy and gave prestige to the Country and was greatly suffering the consequences of the pandemic.

As in previous editions, the Italian Cuisine Weeks events would be showcasing the best of Italian food and wine culture to Vietnam, through the excellence of Italian products, which were guaranteed by a verified production chain and protected by an effective geographical indications system.

The whole Sistema Italia in Vietnam (Embassy in Hanoi, Consulate General in HCMC, Italian Trade Agency and ICHAM - Italian Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam) was committed to promote the World Week of Italian Cuisine, as a consistent and effective initiative to consolidate the bilateral relations with Vietnam.

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WHERE TO FIND

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Black Vinegar

HOTEL Ho Chi Minh • An Lam Saigon River • Caravelle • Chloe Gallery • Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon • Hotel Des Arts • Hotel Nikko Saigon • Intercontinental Asiana Saigon • Lotte Legend • Le Meridien Saigon • Mai House Saigon • Mia Saigon • New World Hotel • Norfolk Mansion • Novotel Saigon Centre • Oakwood Residence Saigon • Park Hyatt Saigon • Pullman Hotel • Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon • Rex Hotel • Saigon Prince Hotel • Sedona Suites • Sofitel Saigon Plaza • Sheraton Saigon Hotel • Sherwood Residence • Somerset Vista Hochiminh City • The Reverie Saigon • The Myst Dong Khoi • Villa Song Saigon • Windsor Plaza Hotel Con Dao • Poulo Condo • Sixsense Con Dao Nha Trang • An Lam Retreats Ninh Van Bay • Intercontinental Nha Trang • Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa • Sixsense Ninh Van Bay • The Anam Da Nang • Fusion Maia Danang • Furama Resort & Spa • Hyatt Regency Danang Resort And Spa • Intercontinental Da Nang

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Hoi An • Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai Hue • Alba Wellness Resort • Banyan Tree Lang Co Ha Noi • Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake • Intercontinental Hanoi Landmark72 • JW Marriott Hotel Hanoi • Sheraton Hanoi Hotel • Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi Phu Quoc • Fusion Resort Phuquoc • Hyatt Regency Nam Nghi Phu Quoc Island • Intercontinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort • JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa RESTAURANT Ho Chi Minh • An Vien Restaurant • Anh Tukk Modern Thai Cuisine • Argentinian Steakhouse El Gaucho • Au Lac Do Brazil Restaurant • Boomarang Bistro Saigon • L’usine Cafe & Restaurant • La Villa French Restaurant • Hoa Túc Restaurant • Moo Beefsteak • Opus Sai Gon • Pendolasco Restaurant • Uraetei Yakiniku Restaurant • Refinery Bar & Restaurant • San Fu Lou • Tandoor Vietnam • The Log Restaurant • Thai Cong Restaurant • Villa Royale Downtown Antiques & Tea Room • 3G Trois Gourmands Da Nang • Bushido Restaurant • Bistecca Restaurant Danang • Don Cipriani’s • El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse • Hai Cang Da Nang Restaurant

Mr. Anh Restaurant Nen Restaurant Olivia’s Prime Steakhouse Pizza 4p’s Hoang Van Thu Retro Kitchen and Bar The Rachel Restaurant The Temptation Restaurant Tra House & Bistro

Ha Noi • Bow Thai • Cloud Nine Restaurant • EMM’s French Bistro • Essence Restaurant • French Grill • Hanoi Garden Restaurant • Hanoi Ocean House • Hanoi Serene Cuisine Restaurant • La Fiorentina - Italian Restaurant • La Badiane • La Verticale • Madame Hien • Maison Vie Restaurant - Fine French Cuisine • Kimono Japanese Restaurant • Opera Garden Restaurant • T.U.N.G Dining • Red Bean Restaurant • Teddy’s American Grill House • Tunglok Heen AIRPORT Ho Chi Minh Tan Son Nhat International Airport International Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Rose Lounge • Lotus Lounge 2 • Orchid Lounge • Le Saigonnais Lounge Domestis Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Le Saigonnais Lounge Da Lat Lien Khuong International Airport • Lien Khuong Airport Nha Trang Cam Ranh International Airport International Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Sun Coast Lounge Domestis Terminal • The Champ Lounge Ha Noi Noi Bai International Airport International Terminal • Song Hong Business Lounge Domestis Terminal • Song Hong Premium Lounge

WHERE TO BUY Ho Chi Minh • Phuong Nam Vincom Dong Khoi • Phuong Nam Saigon Centre • Phuong Nam An Phu Supermarket • Phuong Nam Estella Place • Phuong Nam Parkson Hung Vuong • Phuong Nam Vivo City • Phuong Nam Crescent Mall • Phuong Nam Vincom Le Van Viet • Phuong Nam Book City Garden Mall • Phuong Nam Book City Van Hanh Mall • Ca Chep Bookstore 211-213 Vo Van Tan, District 3 Ha Noi • Phuong Nam Garden Mall • Phuong Nam Lotte Center • Phuong Nam Mega Mall Royal City • Phuong Nam Vincom Ba Trieu • Phuong Nam Vincom Nguyen Chi Thanh Binh Duong • Phuong Nam Aeon Mall Binh Duong Dong Nai • Phuong Nam Vincom Bien Hoa • Phuong Nam 113-115 Dong Khoi Street, Tam Hiep Ward Da Lat • Phuong Nam Vincom Bao Loc • Phuong Nam Lien Khuong Airport • Phuong Nam 279 Phan Dinh Phung Street Nha Trang • Phuong Nam 17 Thai Nguyen Street, Phuoc Tan Ward Da Nang • Phuong Nam 153 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Phuoc Ninh Ward, Hai Chau District • Phuong Nam Vincom Da Nang • Phuong Nam Danang Airport Can Tho • Phuong Nam 06 Hoa Binh Street, An Cu Ward, Ninh Kieu District

Peruvian White Asparagus, Flower Garden Salad, Seville Orange Gel and Truffle Crème Fraîche

R&J Italian Lounge & Restaurant

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IF LUXURY IS YOUR LIFE, WE SPEAK YOUR LANGUAGE

E P I C U R E L OV E S

Passifolia Dedicating a new, ornate tableware collection inspired by botany is artist and ornamentalist Nathalie Rolland-Huckel with Passifolia for French fashion house Hermès. If the name rings a bell, it is probably because the range pays homage to the passion flower, Passiflora, which is a genus of around 550 species of flowering plants. The luxury maison’s fine china exudes the delicacy and authenticity of foliage as well as flora, as veins of the anthurium are etched across a plate and teacups are enveloped in a palm leaf. Brew a fresh cuppa in the Teapot ($1,000), then stow your table condiments in the Sugar bowl ($600). Or, tuck into your favourite breakfast meal using the Cereal Bowl ($260) and more. The vibrant Passifolia tableware collection is a feast for the eyes that will surely make your dishes look even more delicious. The Passifolia tableware collection is available at Hermès stores in Singapore.

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