Epicure Vietnam Issue 01

DECEMBER 2019 epicureasia.com

in the Basque Country CARAVELLE SAIGON The gift that keeps on giving

LE MERIDIEN SAIGON A contemporary city break in Saigon M ille-feuille of Char-grilled Vegetables with Aubergine in Herb Tomato Sauce

A CONSCIOUS FEAST

GIOVANNI PARRELLA Mission possible

PUBLISHER 'S NOTE

The Book of

P

Foodies

lease join us in welcoming this - the first ever - edition of Epicure Vietnam Magazine. Building on Vietnam's centuries of food and hospitality traditions, our country’s gourmet and entertainment scene is growing by leaps and bounds. Driven by both local and international culinary trends and influences, new hotels, resorts and restaurants appear on a daily basis.

With the aim of supporting and building on the trend, Epicure Vietnam showcases our country's hospitality, gourmet & dining scene. Our young, dynamic, and resilient population of around 100 million people are eager to experience the world's finer things in life.

And we are here to help.

Epicure Vietnam's first “Festive Season” edition features the many different ways to celebrate Christmas and New Year - from “Roast to Toast” to “East to West”, and from “Buche de Noel” to the famous “Yusheng Chinese Prosperity Toast”.

So together, let's make this Festive Season one to remember.

Whatever your preferences are for food, wine, cocktails or ambiance, allow Epicure Vietnam be your personal guide, whether you are a visitor looking for authentic Vietnamese cuisine, or a local searching for the perfect venue to celebrate with partners, clients, or friends.

Epicure Vietnam is crafted especially for you, to explore Vietnam and other cuisines, cultures and countries in a most delicious way.

Bon Appetit & Chúc Sức Khoẻ!

Jade Huynh Publisher

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Eventail

Capitol Piazza 15 Stamford Road #01-69/70/71 Singapore 178906 www.haviland.fr epicurevietnam 7

THANH NIEN PUBLISHING HOUSE HO CHI MINH CITY BRANCH DIRECTOR & EDITOR IN CHIEF

64 Ba Trieu Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam 145 Pasteur Street, Ward 6, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Nguyen Xuan Truong

PUBLISHER

Jade Huynh

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR

Leon Shears

EDITOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS ASSISTANT EDITORS

Ta Quang Huy Charlotte Blair, Brittany Varano, Thuy Nguyen, Sierra Stonebrook Yen Thanh, Thao Nguyen, Bich Thao, My Hien

DESIGNER PHOTOGRAPHER ADVERTISING EDITORIAL CIRCULATION SENIOR PUBLISHER

Quoc Vuong Mike Palumpo Marketing@oriental-media.com Editorial@oriental-media.com Circulation@oriental-media.com Cecilia Goh

MANAGING EDITOR

Adeline Wong

WINE EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR DIGITAL WRITER FEATURES WRITER

June Lee Eve Tedja Victoria Lim Destin Tay

SENIOR DESIGNER IT & DIGITAL MEDIA DIRECTOR DIGITAL MEDIA PRODUCER CONTRIBUTORS REGIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR SENIOR BUSINESS MANAGER ADMIN & MARKETING EXECUTIVE MARKETING EXECUTIVE MANAGING DIRECTOR

Darryl Pestana Jun Evangelista Tu Jie Rui Alicia Chow Kirwan, Andy Soon, Ching, Eddie Teo, Michelle Bay, Shamilee Vellu, Simon Lim Dewi Prasodjo Jack Ang Sheila Devi Shauna Mun Dennis Pua

epicure VIETNAM is licensed by Magazines Integrated Private Limited registered in Singapore and produced 4 times a year by: Oriental Media & Event Services Co., Ltd 19/24 Doan Thi Diem Street, Ward 1, Phu Nhuan District, HCMC, Vietnam T: +84 28 3844 1612 | E: editorial@oriental-media.com Printed by Itaxa Company 126 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Distributed by Truong Phat 179 Ly Chinh Thang, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

epicure is available in print, digitally through Apple iTunes and Google Play, and on epicureasia.com facebook.com/epicureasia

ON THE COVER Photos Ching Art direction and styling Alicia Chow Kirwan Recipe by Eric Neo and Ben Goh of Intercontinental Singapore Shot at Intercontinental Singapore

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Copyright by the Publisher. Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the Publisher is strictly prohibited. Views and opinions expressed in epicure are not neccessarily those of the Publisher and the Editors. Although every reasonable care has been taken to ensure the accuracy and objectivity of the information provided in this publication, neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All prices are in Singapore dollars unless otherwise stated and exclude miscellaneous taxes.

Publishing License No. 252-2019/CXBIPH/22-06/TN. Publishing Decision: 425/QĐ-TN Date of License Issued: April 23rd, 2019. ISBN Code: 978-604-975-648-1. Size 230 x 280mm Publishing Quantity: 25,000 copies. Registered in December, 2019

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CONTE NTS

EPICURE NEWS 20

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22

The art of contrasts Join the club Signature skewers Peace and quiet For your sake The lap of luxury Festive feasting

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23 A December to remember at Windsor Plaza Hotel 24 For the love of craft coffee 25 Brodard Restaurant – Tea House – Pastry

GLOBETROTTING EPICURE 26 A sugary epi-log-ue 30 I propose a roast

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epicurevietnam 11

CONTE NTS

55

GOURMET INSIDER 38

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Le Méridien Saigon A contemporary city break in Saigon Nineteen Restaurant Infinite indulgence Hoa Túc Restaurant An appetite for addiction

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Au Lac Do Brazil – The spirit of Brazil in Saigon Tandoor Restaurant Spicing it up in Saigon Bistro Song Vie – A culinary oasis at the Saigon River Louisiane Brewhouse – Where hops and dreams come true

EPICURE SEASONS 52 Fabulously festive 54 In time for the holidays 56 Toss to prosperity

Print ads for Epicure Dec 2019 - final.pdf 1 12/4/2019 1:33:48 PM

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CONTE NTS

64 GOURMET KNOWLEDGE

GOURMET TRAVELLER

58 64 72 78

80 Caravelle Saigon – The gift that keeps on giving 82 A dose of vitamin sea in secluded paradise 84 The return of the Grand Old Dame

Putting in the wo(r)k More than just a sip Southeast Asia’s bean-to-bar story A guide to Vietnamese coffee culture

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Print ads for Epicure Dec 2019 - final.pdf 1 12/4/2019 1:33:48 PM

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CONTE NTS

128 101 CHEF MASTERCLASS

CELLAR CHOICE

88 Mission possible 94 The art of Italian flair 98 A delight of France 101 Festive family feast 106 Lure of the island

126 Another tranche of

2008 vintage Champagne

that you can’t resist

SECRET RECIPES 128 A feel-good Christmas

WINE KNOWLEDGE 110 The next big thing in wine 117 The cult of cabernet

VINE EXPECTATIONS 120 My wine princess 122 The point of origin 124 Face to face with Gaia

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CONTE NTS

143

RAISING THE BAR 138 Drinking & Healing cures all

Japanese flavour meets Vietnamese asthetic It’s time for a cocktail at 2 Lam Son 139 Where elegance and sophistication converge Feeling spritzy 140 Back to the roaring ‘20s Comfort and cocktails

A culinary rendezvous

141 Where your perfect cocktail awaits you A haven for all gin enthusiasts An evening of intrigue and murder 142 Latitude with an attitude

TIPLE TIPS 143 Sea sparkle

AT HOME WITH 144 Eat, sing and be merry

SEEN & SAVOURED 150 A celebration of culinary genius 152 Conservative vs. Conservative 154 Fit for a King 156 WHERE TO FIND

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The South American Steakhouse Jungceylon Mall Patong

PHUKET’S FAVOURITE STEAKHOUSE AFFORDABLE WAGYU & BLACK ANGUS STEAKS SERVED DAILY FROM 12NOON TO 11PM AT JUNGCEYLON MALL IN PATONG

SPECIAL OFFER BRING IN AND SHOW THIS AD AT THE TIME OF ORDERING AND RECEIVE ONE FREE CLASSIC CHURRASCO MOJITO FOR EVERY WAGYU OR ANGUS STEAK ORDERED OFFER VALID UNTIL NOVEMBER 30, 2020

CHURRASCO PHUKET STEAKHOUSE Jungceylon Mall Patong, Phuket, Thailand www.churrascophuket.com reservations@churrascophuket.com epicurevietnam 19

EPICURE NEWS

The art of contrasts Underpinning both the food and ambience of Jardin Des Sens is delicacy and elegance. The menu takes inspiration from the Mediterranean influences of the South of France and masters the art of contrasts, serving a creative mix of modern and traditional cuisine, hot and cold dishes and sweet and bitter flavours.

The famed 5 course meal at Jardin Des Sens is aptly named Amouse-Bouche, literally meaning mouth amuser. Diners are offered three starters which beautifully compliment one another; burrata with crab and basil and tomato sorbet; duck foie gras terrine; and fresh asparagus in balsamic vinegar dressing. After the delights of the starters, diners can enjoy either red mullet or crispy suckling pig belly and either Bergamot Tartlet or the lighter – but equally delicious – mango and yogurt with candied ginger for dessert. 251 Dien Bien Phu Street (entry on Le Quy Don Street), District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3930 3394

Join the club Discerning patrons of Caravelle Hotel are invited to join the Caravelle Classique Club: an exclusive membership programme offering exceptional privileges. Members can share the myriad of benefits offered in dining, wellness and accommodation experiences with family, friends, colleagues or clients.

With cash certificates that can be used in two of Caravelle Hotel’s dining outlets, Reflections Restaurant and Nineteen Restaurant; a complimentary two-course lunch for two at the historic Saigon Saigon rooftop bar; a 10% reduction on beverages at all of the hotel’s outlets; a generous discount off the Caravelle Health membership; Suite room rewards; and two-for-one treatment at Kara Spa; Caravelle Classique Club is a membership programme that honours loyalty.

The exclusive membership, acquired via annual subscription, brings members a whole year of privileges and it is now available on mobile app.

If you are interested in joining the Caravelle Classique Club Programme and receiving these exceptional benefits, please call (84) 28 3825 6941 or email ccclub@ caravellehotel.com for enrollment assistance. 19-23 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

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Signature skewers Renkon is the answer for all those seeking a contemporary Izakaya dining experience in the heart of Saigon. Taking inspiration from Japanese neighbourhood restaurants that offer personal menus made especially for the community it serves, the Renkon team guides guests through their gastronomic-journey by carefully curating a menu for each and every table.

With an open kitchen specialising in “kushiyaki” – skewers grilled over binchotan charcoal – diners can observe the talented chef’s mastery of this cooking technique before enjoying sharable food that is charred to perfection. The signature skewers including king oyster mushroom, baby octopus and teriyaki chicken thigh, highlight the restaurant’s modernisation of the seemingly simple skewer and are varied enough to ensure that every diner’s tastes are catered for.

Favouring Japanese beverages, the drink’s list further propels diners into an authentic Japanese dining cuisine and guests can enjoy Sake and Shochu or cocktails inspired by Izakaya classics. 74/10A Hai Ba Trung Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3939 0011

Peace and quiet Deriving its name from the Vietnamese word “lặng yên”, meaning still and calm among chaos, Laang promises city dwellers the chance to reconnect and unwind meaningfully via healthy cuisine and a tranquil atmosphere. The restaurant’s serene location, when coined with its calming interior and nourishing menu, makes Laang a popular choice for those wanting to re-engage with their own self-awareness.

Laang’s head chef, the award winning Vo Quoc, has created an Asian inspired menu that is healthy and vegetarian-friendly while prioritising locally sourced, fresh ingredients. The restaurant boasts an impressive range of food from dawn to dusk as well as healthy juices, delicate teas and distinctive cocktails. Amongst Vo Quoc’s recommendations are the fried duck breast with ginger fish sauce, fried rice with pineapple and seafood and the BBQ pork with rice noodles, bean sprouts and spring rolls. 22 Dang Huu Pho Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Tel: +84 28 6650 4344

For your sake Using only the finest Wagyu beef imported from Japan and grilled at the centre of dining tables, Yazawa Saigon is a Japanese BBQ restaurant specializing in succulent and premium yakiniku. With a strong focus on luxury ingredients and the chef’s mastery of intricate preparation processes, diners can enjoy exceptionally tender and delicate beef that seems to melt in the mouth. For those feeling adventurous, Yazawa Saigon offers an exciting range of ways to enjoy Wagyu beef and alongside the flagship yakiniku, guests can savour Wagyu Toro Sushi and Garlic Japanese Wagyu rice.

The restaurant’s sleek interior and contemporarily understated architecture complements the elegance of the menu while the lavish ambience beckons diners to enjoy a drink with their meal. With a wide array of prudently selected wines available, as well as ten stocked Sake brands, guests can either relish a glass of red or white with flavour notes that compliments their food or embrace Japanese culture with the country’s national drink. 219 Dien Bien Phu Street, Ward 6, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 6275 4129

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The lap of luxury With an all-day luxury dining menu and breathtaking, panoramic views of the Saigon River, ROS promises unforgettable riverside wining and dining. The venue’s modern setting and chic interior compliments the elegant menu which masterfully blends quintessentially Asian cuisine with the subtle art of modern dining. Diners can enjoy traditional Asian dishes including bibimbap, udon and tempura which have been invigorated and modernised by world-class chefs while marveling at the city views.

The ‘Modern Drinks of Vietnam’ menu uses exciting ingredients such as lotus tea vodka, coconut cà phê, local brown rice wine and freeze dried durian yoghurt, making cocktails on the riverfront a truly memorable and unique affair and ROS a must-visit venue for foodies and cocktail enthusiasts alike. Bach Dang Harbour, 10B Ton Duc Thang Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 903 796 236

Festive feasting Celebrate the Christmas season with Press Club’s festive menu created by renowned Michelin chef, Alain Dutournier. Warm the senses with a glass of Champagne Taittinger Brut Reserve on arrival and a mise en bouche of black scallop, oyster and truffle to follow.

For the main course, enjoy either scallop ravioli with foie gras, steamed sole fillet with lobster mousse and cream oyster caviar sauce or roasted King French pigeon with royal foie gras, pumpkin flan, wild mushroom and star-anise infused porto sauce. For vegetarians, there is tartin goats cheese “crottin chavignon” with heart of lettuce and walnut dressing and for the sweet-toothed, a decadent hazelnut log cake with ice cream to finish.

The New Year’s Eve dinner promises to be a truly French affair with a mise en bouche of King crab and mango jelly followed by pan-fried foie gras, braised lentil truffles and crispy wild mushroom ravioli or cream oyster soup with caviar and garden leaves. For the main, enjoy steamed lobster with cream sea urchin, champagne sauce, salmon roes and asparagus or grilled Wagyu beef with mushrooms, foie gras and beef tail cromesquis perigourdine sauce.

With Brillat Savarin served alongside black truffle sweet and bitter shoots and a chocolate Valrhona cake with truffle ice cream for dessert, guests are ensured a meal of luxury from start to finish. 12 Ly Dao Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 904 067 686

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EPICURE NEWS

A December to remember at Windsor Plaza Hotel

As if a bountiful buffet wasn’t spirited enough, the Windsor also has on offer a festive dinner special at Ngan Dinh Restaurant. For the entire month of December, enjoy a gourmet and freshly prepared meal of a whole deepfried chicken stuffed with sticky rice priced at VND 588,000++. For a halfchicken, the price is VND 298,000+++. Bon appétit.

It’s the most wonderful time of the year, and the Windsor Plaza Hotel is ready for the holiday festivities! Celebrate in style with your friends and family this Christmas and New Years and indulge in an array of extravagant offerings.

I

n celebration of the upcoming holidays, the Windsor Plaza Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City has curated a variety of festive and joyous activities for you to enjoy with your loved ones. Stop into Café Central An Dong for a scrumptious dinner buffet, December 20-24 and again on December 31st and January 1st for the New Year, to enjoy international favourites such as freshly caught seafood, mouthwatering desserts and a free-flow of sparkling wine, German draught beer, soft drinks and more. As Christmas music softly plays and loving conversations fill the air, you’re guaranteed to have an enchanting holiday experience. And don’t forget the Christmas presents! (VND 1,088,000++)

The Windsor Plaza Hotel is also hosting a spectacular night of ringing in the New Year at their Top Of The Town Bar & Restaurant. From December 20-24, take in the sweeping city skyline views while dining on a gourmet six-course meal specially prepared for the holidays, only VND 688,000++ per person. On the night of New Year’s Eve, dine in for an evening to remember and receive a ticket to the New Year countdown celebration after your meal. Just VND 988,000++ per person. 18 An Duong Vuong Street, Ward 4, District 5, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3833 6688

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EPICURE NEWS

For the love of craft coffee Le Méridien Saigon’s master barista, Mr Duong Chau, shines a spotlight on all things coffee.

L

e Méridien Saigon may be known first and foremost as a contemporary design hotel situated in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, but at Latitude 10 the baristas are also pioneers in the world of craft coffee.

At Latitude 10, guests can either enjoy an authentic Vietnamese coffee experience or sample the unique flavours provided by beans from coffee regions around the world. The interactive menu offers the freedom to select from one of six brewing techniques and beans, meaning that at Latitude 10, the capacity for coffee creativity is endless.

While preserving the relationship between Illy coffee and Le Méridien Saigon, Latitude 10 has recently introduced the cà phê trứng, a favourite amongst locals because of its bitter flavour profile. Le Méridien Saigon continues to contribute to Saigon’s coffee culture by offering a unique version of the cà phê trứng that allows guests to sip a taste of tradition with modern modifications, such as the use of egg whites as opposed to yolks.

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At Latitude 10, guests can also enjoy their signature nonalcoholic cocktail, the mojito iced coffee, which features double espresso blended with mint leaves and fresh milk. For those wanting something stronger, an exquisite take on the time-old favourite espresso martini is available as well as the more innovative ‘espresso summer’ and the ‘coffee old fashioned.’

In Vietnam, coffee is not only a drink, but a way of life and at Latitude 10 guests are promised a unique coffee experience at one of Saigon’s most innovative coffee hubs. 3C Ton Duc Thang Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 6263 6688.

EPICURE NEWS

Brodard

Restaurant – Tea House – Pastry Situated in the heart of Saigon on Dong Khoi street is an authentic French restaurant that is dedicated to providing the finest culinary traditions.

I

nspired by the city’s rich French heritage, Brodard Restaurant – Tea House – Pastry allows guests to revel in the delights of France in the heart of Saigon. The elegant colonial-era façade of the building, when coupled with an interior that features marble tile, chandeliers and vaulted ceilings, promises an epicurean dining experience.

The menu is a classical affair of authentic French dishes including Bouillabaisse of slow-cooked seafood; lamb bourguignon with organic carrot and onion; lobster thermidor with organic greens; and poached eggs with foie-gras, asparagus and truffles.

The traditional brasserie on the first floor boasts an extensive list of French wines from renowned regions of the world, promising that diners can enjoy a glass that seamlessly complements the aromas and flavours on their plate. Guests can also relish signature cocktails like the lychee martini, berry mojito or ‘Saigon Lover’, which blends gin with local lemongrass and fresh lime juice.

The ground floor patisserie features home-made pastries and chocolates, Perfetto Caffe coffee, and an assortment of tea, including signature iced fusions like the ‘Longan Lemongrass.’

What’s more, the much-beloved Brodard Bakery, which has been producing high-quality baked goods in Vietnam since 1948, now offers a wide selection of speciality breads, pastries, as well as cookies and cakes. 131-133 Dong Khoi, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3820 2222

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GLOBETROTTING EPICURE

A sugary epi-log-ue Traditional chocolate yule logs are hard to beat when it comes to Christmas cakes, but these establishments are making a case with their innovative alternatives to the timeless classic.

Carlton Hotel Singapore's new Chocolate Pink Peppercorn Log Cake ($63) is not to be missed. Pineapple and mango are melded within layers of decadent chocolate, before the cake is finished with piquant pink peppercorn for an extra kick of flavour.

Health-conscious individuals can opt for the Black Forest Log Cake ($68); it is alcohol-free and contains 30 percent less sugar.

76 Bras Basah Road. Tel: 6349 1292 The Capitol Kempinski Hotel marks their Christmas debut in Singapore with delicious takeaways from their flagship restaurant, 15 Stamford by Alvin Leung. Try the Madagascar Vanilla Mousse Cake ($62). Sweet-tangy raspberry custard is nestled within the white log which is layered with mixed berry jelly and decorated with festive accoutrements. 15 Stamford Road.

Tel: 6368 8888

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InterContinental Singapore unveils several sweet treats. For log cakes ($78), go for the Letter to Santa for a berry-licious combination of strawberry cheese mousse, lingonberry confit, blueberry génoise and blackberry custard; or the classic White Christmas, filled with festive cinnamon apple compote and a cinnamon crémeux. Looking for an alternative to log cakes? The similarly festive Santa’s Carousel Fruit Cake ($88) is a worthy substitute. The intricate rendition of a Christmas classic features rum and brandy-infused candied fruits, and is accompanied by chocolate reindeer and Santa Claus. Level 1, 80 Middle Road. Tel: 6825 1132

Pan Pacific Singapore’s Pacific Marketplace is releasing three new flavours ($70). The Jivara Milk Chocolate Pear William and Caramel Nut Log Cake is a winning combination; the caramelised hazelnut outer coating is a strong base for the delicately sweet pear curd and cubes within. Alternatively, go for the decadent Mao Shan Wang Log Cake with Gula Melaka, or the tangy and refreshing Coconut Mango Calamansi Log Cake. Level 1, 7 Raffles Boulevard. Tel: 6826 8240

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Four Seasons Hotel Singapore debuts a new Coconut Mousse with Calypso Mango Yule Log ($88). The Australian varietal of mango boasts fibre-free flesh, and makes for a wonderfully smooth layer of mango to enhance the light coconut mousse. Lobby Level, 190 Orchard Boulevard. Tel: 6831 7253

Goodwood Park Hotel is sure to satisfy the inner child in you with their new pastel-coloured Christmas dessert takeaways. The Crystal Glacier Log Cake ($82) is a veritable pastel winter wonderland, adorned with chocolate shards and edible crystals. The base of milk chocolate hazelnut fudge is layered with apple mousse, lingonberries and mascarpone. For another fantasy delight, the Whimsical Fairy Cake ($65) boasts fairy and butterfly decorations, topped with a collection of lolly candy wands. Fans of the King of Fruit will be delighted to know that Goodwood Park’s signature Mao Shan Wang Log Cake ($78) has returned this festive season. Lobby Level, 22 Scotts Road. Tel: 6730 1867

We love Sofitel Singapore City Centre’s Paris-inspired log cakes. The Champs-Elysées ($72) mirrors the snow-covered street during Christmas time; blueberry compote, vanilla crème and coconut dacquoise are covered in a ivory chocolate and yuzu-infused mascarpone ‘snow’. The Avenue Montaigne ($72), pays tribute to the bustling fashion district of its namesake. 70 percent Valrhona Guanaja crème brûlée, citron confit and flourless sponge cake are stacked on a base of hazelnut feuilletine, and held together by a stylish ‘leather’ belt buckle.

Festive Booth, Level 5, 9 Wallich Street. Tel: 6428 5000

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The Shophouse at Shangri-La Hotel Singapore offers a slew of festive cakes and treats, including four different log cake flavours. These include the all-time favourite Grandma 66% Yule Log Cake ($72), a hearty Coffee and Baileys Log Cake ($72), and the refreshing Chestnut and Yuzu Log Cake ($75). Their newest creation? A Cocoa Bean Strawberry Log Cake ($75) of génoise sponge, strawberry juice, and strawberry crémeux, finished with a Christmas red glaze. For the ultimate ornament to your Christmas dessert table, there is the limited edition Christmas Signature Carousel Cake ($298). The intricately designed French spice cake, which mixes orange marmalade and jivara bavaroise, comes decked in handcrafted fondant and chocolate festive characters. Lobby Level, Tower Wing, 22 Orange Grove Road. Tel: 6213 4511

Conrad Centennial Singapore’s vibrantly coloured log cakes ($75) are great ways to cap off your Christmas dinner, especially the two non-chocolate flavours. Go local with the cloud-like Chendol Gula Melaka Yule Log; the coconut dacquoise based treat is filled with gula melaka mousse, chendol jelly and red beans. For a sleigh of a time, order the Briolette Pistachio with Lemon Mascarpone Yule Log. The Mediterranean-inspired cake consists of pistachio sponge, lemon mascarpone mousse and a deep purple glaze. Lobby Level, 2 Temasek Boulevard. Tel: 6432 7489 TWG Tea is also offering festive log cakes, alongside their loose leaf Magic Christmas Tea blend ($78/100g). The log cakes ($76) come in two versions: Vanilla Mousse and Chocolate Mousse. The former is imbued with tropical fruit confit, vanilla crémeux, white chocolate crisp and an almond streusel and sponge base; the latter has raspberry confit, hazelnut Chantilly, and almond hazelnut crisp instead. These cakes are best enjoyed as individual portions ($9.50) at all TWG Tea salons & boutiques, Each Vanilla slice is served with a scoop of Vanilla Bourbon Tea ice cream, and 1937 Black Tea Sorbet with the chocolate version.

Available at all TWG stores, or online at TWGTea.com.

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GLOBETROTTING EPICURE

I propose a roast Nothing quite completes a Christmas dinner like a plump turkey or gorgeously glazed ham.

Check out an array of magnificent roasts from Singapore’s best hotels and restaurants.

The signature Cajun Turkey ($138) from Carlton City Hotel Singapore makes its return this year. Along with the usual accompaniments of roasted potatoes, vegetables and chestnut-chicken mousseline stuffing, each order of the Cajun Turkey comes with a selection of four marmalades and four sauces. The classics like cranberry marmalade, giblet gravy and bread sauce are available, but those who prefer a more exciting flavour profile will love the spicy ‘mala’ chicken sauce, pineapple-wasabi marmalade and honey green mango marmalade.

Lobby Level, Christmas Shoppe, 1 Gopeng Street. Tel: 6632 8921 Sheraton Towers Singapore unveils a new oriental-inspired Honey Rock Hoisin Roasted Turkey ($198). The turkey is infused in homemade hoisin marinade for 48 hours before it's slow-roasted and served with sides like black sesame fried rice stuffing, sautéed Brussels sprouts and salted egg potato dumplings. Other options for your home party: Spiced Bourbon Orange-Glazed Gammon Ham ($268) and the Salmon and Mushroom Duxelle en Croute ($188).

Lobby Level, 39 Scotts Road. Tel: 6839 5636.

St. Regis Singapore introduces two truffle flavoured roasts to add to your Christmas feast: the Whole Roast Turkey infused with Truffle Oil ($248) and Roasted Lamb Leg with Truffle and Mustard ($188).

Both come with truffled mashed potatoes, buttered vegetables, and unique sauces. For more truffle goodness, order the Homemade Smoked Salmon with The St. Regis Tea Blend ($90). It’s paired with truffle brioche bread, asparagus, egg white and freshly shaved truffles. Brasserie Les Saveurs, Lobby Level, 29 Tanglin Road. Tel: 6505 6860

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Fudebar at Novotel Singapore on Stevens offers a Traditional Roast Turkey ($168) alongside their Satay Roast Turkey ($168). For the latter, the festive bird comes with a serving of Novotel’s homemade satay gravy. Vegetarians can also order Plant-Based Meatballs ($38) for a meat-free Christmas meal. #01-02, 28 Stevens Road. Tel: 6491 6193

J65 at Hotel Jen Tanglin offer three different turkeys ($118) this year: Traditional Roast Turkey, Roasted Truffle Flavoured Turkey and Asian Percik Style Turkey. For the full works, opt for the Super Loaded version ($198) of each turkey, which comes with an assortment of side dishes and condiments. For example, the Asian Percik Super Loaded Turkey is accompanied

by Prawn and Pickled Mango Salad, Chilli Crab Claws, Seasonal Vegetables, Braised Red Cabbage, and Chilled Mango Soup.

Level 1, 1A Cuscaden Road. Tel: 6831 4374 Crowne Plaza Changi Airport goes Thai with their new Tom Yum Roast Turkey ($168).

Marinated in a mixture of tom yum paste and mustard, the spicy-tangy bird is served with tart green papaya salad, tom yum sauce and an addictive house-made tamarind dip.

Another must-have roast is the hotel’s signature Barbecue Beef Short Ribs ($138); cooked sousvide for 24 hours, the forktender meat falls effortlessly off the bone, and is made complete with a robust barbecue glaze. Lobby Lounge, Lobby Level, 75 Airport Boulevard.

Tel: 6823 6537

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Tablescape Restaurant & Bar provides different options for those who are not big fans of turkey. The bone-in Prime Rib ($148/kg) is a lipsmacking centerpiece. You get a choice of three to seven bone roasts; the massive hunk of meat is perfumed with garlic and rosemary, and accompanied by truffled mashed potatoes, buttered vegetables and a fruity Merlot sauce. Seafood lovers can opt for the Oven Baked Line Caught Fish ($168). It is cooked Italian-style, and doused in a white wine sauce that has been stewed with capers, olives and cherry tomatoes. Level 3, Grand Park City Hall, 10 Coleman Street. Tel: 6432 5566

PARKROYAL on Pickering's new Asian-inspired turkeys are worth a go.

The Turkey Masak Merah ($128) takes inspiration from the Malay dish, and is smothered in a fiery hot tomato and chilli sauce. A non-spicy option is the Angelica Turkey ($128). The Chinese herb is combined with Worcestershire sauce in the marinade, to give off an earthy and savoury flavour. Lobby Level, 3 Upper Pickering Street. Tel: 6809 8899

Executive chef Chua Yew Hock of Holiday Inn Singapore Atrium has created a spicy turkey: the Roasted Mala Turkey ($128) ranks five on a 10-point heat level scale. Temper the heat with tangy pickled vegetables, cilantro sauce, and hearty garlic fried rice.

317 Outram Road. Tel: 9114 0279

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The Christmas offerings from Hotel Indigo Singapore Katong’s Baba Chews are locally-inspired treats. Their extensive local takeaways include the Hakka Salt Baked Chicken ($52), which is stuffed with a medley of vegetables and perfumed with Chinese wine. The Kopi-C Flavoured BBQ Pork Spareribs ($60) are glazed with a rich coffee sauce and served with rojak coleslaw and you tiao crisps. A returning favourite is the Beef Rendang ($123); this year, it’s made with hulking USDA prime beef shortribs, and owes its addictive flavour to spiced grated coconut and gula melaka. #01-01, Katong Square, 86 East Coast Road. Tel: 6723 2025 Expect a lineup of herby, spice-laden treats from Royal Plaza on Scotts, such as the Sambal Hijau Roast Turkey ($158). Slathered in a piquant green sambal, stuffed with spiced chicken, and served with a sambal hijau kicap sauce, the hearty feast is complemented by a generous portion of nasi goreng, serunding and sayur lodeh. Lobby Level, 25 Scotts Road. Tel: 6219 3780

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architecture. Then spend another two days in the mountain called Koyo-san.

You ascend by cable car and arrive at the top where there’s nothing but 117 temples and 250,000 graves. It’s a solemn, majestic and spooky place. Between super futuristic Naoshima and ancient Koyo-san, you’ve got two of the greatest landmarks in Japan.

10 mins with...

PICO IYER, novelist, travel writer, Raffles Hotel Singapore’s writer-in-residence, and author of This Could Be Home: Raffles Hotel and the City of Tomorrow You have lived in Nara for over 30 years.

Can you recommend some places to visit?

Get lost. Combine a mix of everything you want to see and things nobody will think to look at. Nara has a famous Buddha temple called Todai-ji, but around the corner are two little gardens that few people know about. Spend two days in Naoshima island, one of the most beautiful places I have seen on earth. It has a cool cutting-edge

What have you noticed about your stay at Raffles Hotel Singapore?

Every time a guest requests for room service here, he or she will receive a beautiful single flower. The staff greets you by name and knows your room number. Sometimes, I would strike up conversations with the staff on duty; they are so friendly they turn what would be a impersonal transaction like room service into something that is full of character, which is a Raffles signature touch that wouldn’t happen in a 500- or 1,000-room hotel. The other thing that strikes me are the flowers and the birds. You can’t hear the traffic outside but you can hear the birds chirping. The fact that one can still enjoy the big green space and a sense of calm in the busiest of cities is striking.

What do you think of modern Singapore and its future?

Singapore is a city of the future now more than ever. In the last 15 years, it has become a fashion-forward, cool, hip city that has surged into the future.

It accelerated past other cities in the world and they look to Singapore as offering a model for where they want to go. The design and architecture are beyond anything I have seen. Every new building is so sleek, every old one is so beautifully preserved. In that way, Crazy Rich Asians is a real expression for how Singapore has arrived. I would say Singapore is ahead of New York by 20 years in terms of fashion, coolness and forward thinking, and it has a more coherent vision - thanks to your initial leaders - than Shanghai and Tokyo can ever have. That is a great benefit in an age where cities are making themselves up as they go along.

What would be your last meal?

Strong English tea and Raffles Hotel Singapore’s vegetable samosas. I have been enjoying them every day. I’m simple like that.

. READING LIST .

J Eating triggers the imagination and powers of recall, creating a unique impression on our palates and minds.

Mouthfeel: How Texture Makes Taste by award-winning chef Klavs Styrbæk and Ole G. Mouritsen (professor of biophysics at the University of Southern Denmark and director of the Danish Center for Taste and president of the Danish Gastronomical Academy) investigate the multiple ways in which food texture influences taste. Find out how to make smarter food choices with healthier substitutes by mimicking the textural properties and physical notes of junk foods such as fries and chicken nuggets. A must-read for food science enthusiasts.

Published by Columbia University Press.

Available from bookdepository.com. $55.20

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J Whether it's hygge or the

fika, the Nordic countries know best when it comes to taking pleasure and living a simple, cosy life. Bakeland Nordic Treats Inspired by Nature is a neat compilation of 140 delicious and creative nature-inspired baking recipes.

With its stunning colour photographs, Bakeland is as much a treat for the eyes as it is for the taste buds. From chocolate sea shells to pinecone-shaped gingersnaps, experience a beautiful way to travel through nature in Scandinavia, season by season.

Published by Greystone Books.

Available from amazon.com. $32.35

39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: (+84) 28 39304839 / (+84) 28 39302468 E: tandoor@tandoorvietnam.com W: tandoorvietnam.com

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Mediterranean magic You are missing out if you have yet to visit BBR by Alain Ducasse, a modern Mediterranean grill concept by the highly decorated French chef located in the former Bar & Billiard Room of Raffles Singapore. Chef de cuisine Louis Pacquelin presides over the large open concept kitchen fitted with a woodfired rotisserie and a pizza oven, all which take up half the space in the middle of the restaurant. A circular brass centrepiece hangs above it, making for great Instagram shots. Guests sit ensconced in burnished orange couches as they scan through a succinct menu of classic dishes from France, Spain and Italy.

The kitchen doles out popular appetisers like Pulpo a la Gallega (tender grilled octopus in paprika and olive oil served with piquillo sauce) and Tortilla Espanola (potato & onion omelette) well, but our favourite is the Pissaladière, a Provençal tart with a pizza-like crust and filled with caramelised onions. The star of the menu is definitely the Cataplana de Marisco ($60), a hearty, savoury stew filled from Carabinero shrimp, fish and mussels and shellfish served in the Portuguese pot. End with Tiramisu; the mascarpone is whipped to perfection and steeped in Ducasse’s specialty coffee. Raffles Singapore, 1 Beach Road.

Tel: 6337 1886

9 years on When new diners open and close within nine months, Singapore favourite ‘funky Middle Eastern’ restaurant Artichoke still remains strong after nine years, thanks to madcap chef-owner Bjorn Shen’s whimsical spin on the cuisine. Family-style classics like the vegan-friendly Hummus & Iraqi Spiced Mushrooms ($14) continue to draw fans; whipped creamed tahini, lemon juice and garlic are blended with blanched chickpeas, cumin and Cobram Estate olive oil - the smooth, creamy goodness a match with abalone mushrooms from Kin Yan Agrotech seasoned in baharat. The Green Harissa Prawns, Split Cream, Charred Onions ($38) is another classic; prawns are cooked in a small skillet until the juice runs out before they are mixed with harissa and cream.

New highlights like Cauliflower Kushari ($24), Crab & Bacon Toast ($30), and Crispy Lamb Floss (28) are available on the weekend brunch à la carte menu, and the former stand outs.

Cauliflower is deep-fried till it shrivels to retain a bitter edge. Then basmatic rice, onions, lentils and puffed corn are added in for textural depth and tossed in shallot oil and seasoned in amba, a Middle Eastern pickled mango condiment. A ramen egg, marinated in liquid smoke, crowns the scrumptious salad.

Shen also plans to helm a new four-seater bar within the premise next year where he intends to create monthly changing themed menus. First up: an eight-course pizza dinner with a twist. 161 Middle Road. Tel: 6336 6949

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Pre-X'mas feast Marina Bay Sands' signature Epicurean Market marks its comeback from 13 to 15 December. The sixth edition boasts over 50 booths, including Marina Bay Sands' newest restaurants, culinary masterclasses and a festive market.

On 14 and 15 of December, guests can enjoy over 60 dishes at a fraction of their usual price from the booths helmed by Marina Bay Sands’ restaurants. They include Bread Street Kitchen’s Mini Beef Wellington, db Bistro & Oyster Bar’s Lobster Roll and Lobster Thermidor, Adrift’s Pork Katsu Sandwich, and Spago’s Laksa Snapper in a Coconut Bowl.

Twelve free masterclasses will also be conducted; watch Wolfgang Puck make the perfect risotto or listen intently to Tetsuya Wakuda’s lesson on the art of ikejime. Before you leave, pick up some festive takeaways and wines from the festive market, and consider the exclusive after-party at MARQUEE (limited to the first 500 ticket holders who sign up at the MARQUEE booth).

The two-day pass is available for $49, from marinabaysands. com/epicurean-market. Level 1, Exhibition Hall A-C, Sands Expo and Convention Centre, 10 Bayfront Avenue.

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GOURMET INSIDER

Le Méridien Saigon

A contemporary city break in Saigon Unlock the unique culture of Ho Chi Minh City at Vietnam’s first Le Méridien Saigon hotel.

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ituated along the banks of the Saigon River in district 1, Le Méridien Saigon’s central location allows guests to access the wonderful city with ease. Whether you are looking to explore the best restaurants, bars, cafes and tourist attractions or travel with promptitude to business meetings, Le Méridien Saigon’s prime location promises not to disappoint.

The hotel is home to four different restaurant establishments – Latitude 10, Bamboo Chic, Latest Recipe and Art Cacao – meaning that at Le Méridien Saigon, all tastes and moods are catered for.

Latitude 10 is a vibrant café by day where guests can enjoy a selection of craft coffee and tea while catching up with friends or hosting business meetings. By night, the space transforms into a chilled lounge, offering craft cocktails and beer alongside live music.

Bamboo Chic offers a modern take on Vietnamese cuisine with an emphasis on seafood dishes. The elegant and sensual atmosphere, when coupled with the breathtaking 180-degree view of the Saigon River and sparkling skyline, make the venue the perfect spot for special occasion meals and romantic dates.

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Latest Recipe offers all-day dining with an extensive menu boasting both local and international a-la-carte dishes, as well as interactive lunch and dinner buffets. The discovery brunch that takes place every Sunday explores a different cultural theme from around the world while offering guests free-flow Champagne, wine and bloody Mary cocktails.

Situated on the ground floor is Art Cacao. Here, guests can satisfy their sweet tooth with a sensational range of artisan chocolates. Designed especially for those in a hurry, the graband-go service features savoury sandwiches made in-house, ensuring that even the busiest guest has time to enjoy a meal.

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The chic and contemporary interior of the lobby at Le Méridien Saigon is more reminiscent of a hip new space in Brooklyn than Vietnam. The vibrant shades of burgundy, red orange and purple energise the area while the hanging ceiling installations procure an element of contemporary sleekness blended with eccentricity. This sophisticated interior allows Le Méridien Saigon to exhibit a boutique feel, in spite of its 300-some rooms and suites.

The large number of rooms provides guests with the freedom to choose either a city or river view room with both options with an ambient colour scheme of browns, golds and reds. For those wanting more space, Le Méridien Saigon’s suites are big enough to feel like a home away from home. Guests staying in the suites can enjoy

designated dining and kitchenette areas and a modern workspace alongside access to the Club Lounge where afternoon tea, cocktails, and hors d’oeuvres are served.

It can be hard to catch your breath in a city developing as rapidly as Saigon, making it all the more important to have an

oasis of relaxation when returning from a busy day exploring or working. The 26-metre infinity edge saltwater pool located on the 9th floor acts as the perfect retreat from the action of the city. The pool’s enticing open-air view presents Saigon in all of its bustling wonder without the noise or heat. Moreover, for those wanting to unwind in the gym, Le Méridien Saigon offers a 24/7 fitness centre which uses state-of-the-art machines with built-in entertainment systems. A day-pass is also available for locals living in the city who wish to use these facilities but do not need to stay in the hotel.

Situated behind the pool is the Explore Spa where guests can enjoy a range of specially formulated treatments which make use of both local ingredients and marine-based products. The signature massage offered is the Four-hand Choreography which sees two therapists work in harmonic synchronisation, promising an unforgettable and relaxing experience.

Enjoy all of these wonders and more while unlocking the unique culture of Ho Chi Minh City at the Vietnam’s first Le Méridien Saigon hotel. 3C Ton Duc Thang Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 6263 6688

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GOURMET INSIDER

Nineteen Restaurant

Infinite indulgence Voted as one of the best buffet restaurants in Asia, Nineteen is Saigon’s answer to those who want to indulge without limits.

Serving breakfast and lunch buffets and fresh seafood in the evenings, only the finest quality produce is used at this sophisticated five-star buffet dining experience.

every palette. The indulgent spread of artistically presented desserts ensures that every diner satisfies their sweet tooth while the Sunday brunch buffet, featuring live music, succulent roast meats, top quality seafood and amazing mojitos, is the perfect end to any week.

Free flow drink packages, which can be enjoyed independently or as an accompaniment to any of these buffets, is the cherry on top. Starting from fresh juice and creative mocktails to beer, wine and classic cocktails and finishing with the premium package which includes all drinks and the pillar of luxury, Champagne, Nineteen is the place to go for infinite indulgence. 19 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3823 4999

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he pièce de résistance of Nineteen is its unparalleled seafood. Prioritising locally sourced goods, the restaurant serves freshly caught seafood from Vietnam’s waters in the East Sea and off the tropical island of Phu Quoc. The wide variety of cooked to order, high-quality seafood, when coupled with the opportunity to consume the likes of lobster to your heart’s content, earn the restaurant its highly celebrated stardom.

The breakfast and lunch buffets are a fusion of Asian favourites, including sushi and pho, and Western cuisine, such as soup and pancakes, providing diners with a diverse range of flavours from around the world. With mouth-watering, top-range meats served at live carving stations, ribs, vegetables and salads all on offer, the extensive buffet selection promises exquisite food that caters for

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GOURMET INSIDER

Hoa Túc Restaurant An appetite for addiction

Once an opium refinery, now a contemporary Vietnamese restaurant, Hoa Túc has loyal guests and curious travellers addicted to its delectable dishes, discerning wine menu, innovative cocktails, mesmerising ambience and timeless atmosphere.

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uelling Hoa Túc’s conception was the owner’s desire to open a restaurant that showcases her favourite Vietnamese dishes - from street food to regional specialities. The owner and chef explored the very best of Vietnam’s vast culinary heritage and put their hearts into creating a selection of authentic – yet contemporary – Vietnamese plates that are both timeless and elegant in their presentation. Steering clear from the fusion flavours, Hoa Túc is unique because of its 100% Vietnamese menu that boasts innovation within familiarity.

Located down a beautiful courtyard in the heart of Saigon, Hoa Túc’s charming and serene ambience transports guests to a romantic European setting. With a front terrace featuring a roof resembling Paris subway entrances and showcasing the beauty of Art Nouveau architecture, lavish climbing plants and wrought iron furniture, the art of al fresco dining has truly been mastered. The inside’s calming purple colour scheme, elegant furnishings and melodic background lounge music reap equal levels of rustic charm and showcase the powers of dining. For those wanting a vibrant and lively atmosphere, visit the restaurant on a Friday night to enjoy live band performances.

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alongside the opportunity to customise the menus to the client's desire, creating a bespoke dining experience.

Hoa Túc offers flavours and aromas that are characteristic of Vietnamese cuisine and uses only a hand-picked selection of the finest local ingredients. Using coconut heart of palm instead of beansprout, and four mini crepes as opposed to one larger one, Hoa Túc’s modernised take on a national favourite, bánh xèo, caters for the contemporary diner’s penchant for delicacy. The menu also features the likes of cubed beef fillet, sea-bass and calamari, as well as a vibrant selection of vegetarian options. With natural ingredients like betel and lotus leaf used to adorn the plates, all dishes are as pleasing to the eye as for the stomach thanks to the skillful work of the artistic chef.

Hoa Túc’s four available spaces all exude their own unique atmospheres and serve to be the perfect venue for all occasions. The well lit inside area and side garden are suited for small groups and can be adapted to accommodate larger parties. The front terrace is a cosy spot to enjoy lunch or dinner and forgetting time over coffee or cocktails, while the spacious upstairs rooms are the ideal setting for private events, such as annual occasions or corporate celebrations. The team at Hoa Túc provide an exquisite range of set menus

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Promising a glass that compliments each and every palate, the beautiful selection of wines features reds and whites of both the classic and aromatic variety, a selection of rosés, exclusive sparkling varieties and handpicked champagnes. What’s more, Hoa Túc’s master bartender has curated a cocktail menu that, amongst the usual suspects – mojitos, whisky sours and margaritas – includes a range of innovative, signature beverages. With names as creative as their ingredients, guests can enjoy gin mixed with mirin, cinnamon, lime, Thai basil and yogurt with the “Saigon Lady” or Sagatiba Cachaca, mango tea and lemongrass when ordering the “Long Look Back”.

For the festive season, guests can feel the Christmas, New Year and Lunar New Year spirit with dishes redolent of festivity while still encompassing the restaurant’s contemporary Vietnamese cuisine.

A visit to Hoa Túc, then, is the perfect way to embrace the season of generosity and giving that echoes HTGroup’s slogan “From our heart to yours.”

74/7 Hai Ba Trung Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: +84 28 3825 1676

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GOURMET INSIDER

Au Lac Do Brazil

The spirit of Brazil in Saigon Experience premium quality meat professional meats, cutters, “Rodizio” style service, and authentic Brazilian flavours in an unforgettable way.

All Au Lac Do Brazil restaurants boast an “a la carte menu” as well as an “all you can eat buffet” and the weekly variation on the seasonal salads and hot dishes ensures our regular customers are constantly excited by our menu.

ALDB also offers an extensive drinks list including Brazil’s national cocktail, the famed Caipirinha, and an impressive range of earthy Chilean red wine to complement our grilled meats and Churrascaria cuts. 238 Pasteur, Ward 6, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3820 7157

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he notorious “Rodizio” style service at ALDB is known around the world and has become increasingly admired since our 2003 opening in Vietnam. This service style sees professionally trained meat cutters, “Passadores”, carve succulent slices of hot BBQ meat from sword like skewers at diner’s tables.

Better still, guests can tailor their Churrasco dinner to their personal tastes by choosing the exact area of meat they desire as well as the its size and thickness using specialised meat cutlery. Moreover, the Rodizio style service utilises dual-coloured chips to enable efficient, easy and unique communication between diners and staff. Diners are able to use the green side of the chip to indicate their desire for continued service from waiters and Passadores and the red side to signify either a break or the end of their Churrasco meal.

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GOURMET INSIDER

Tandoor Restaurant Spicing it up in Saigon

Using only the finest spices imported from India and chefs that have mastered the art of tandoor cooking, Tandoor serves Indian cuisine that has been rapturously received in Saigon for over two decades.

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andoor Restaurant focuses on the traditional tandoor style cuisine from the north of India to deliver vibrant and authentic cuisine. The highly accomplished Indian chefs have crafted a menu which promises only the best in tandoor cooking and puts emphasis on Halal dishes.

The delectably spiced meat and fish plates at Tandoor restaurant range from the tandoori chicken kebab, brinjal prawn curry to Goan fish curry. Amongst the restaurant’s vegetarianfriendly menu, guests can find dal palak (lentils prepared with fresh spinach and cumin seeds), baingan masala (spiced eggplant delicacy) and kadhai paneer (cottage cheese, onion and capsicum sautéed in dry spices).

Moreover, the dosa, originating from South India, blends ingredients and aromatic spices to make mouth-watering delights like the onion rava dosa (spicy semolina and onion pancake). Vegetarian or not, all spiced dishes at Tandoor restaurant can be enjoyed with one of the raitas – mixed, plain, cucumber, or pineapple – to provide a cooling taste that compliments the spicy flavours.

The quality of the food, the staff’s embodiment of warm Indian hospitality and the bright and airy atmosphere of the venue all harmoniously unite to make Tandoor Restaurant the most popular spot for Indian cuisine in Saigon. 39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. T: +84 28 3930 4839 - 3930 2468

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GOURMET INSIDER

Bistro Song Vie A culinary oasis at the Saigon River

A leafy oasis hidden away from the buzzing crowds of Ho Chi Minh City. Masterfully combining picturesque views with eminently delectable all day dining, guests can take solace in the wonder that is Bistro Song Vie.

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he sleepy palms, French colonial architecture and – above all else – tranquillity – are reminiscent of a time-passed, beckoning guests to bid farewell to the chaos of city life.

Saigon River’s serenity can be marvelled at by both outdoor and indoor diners and on weekends the awes of this view are amplified by the electricity of live jazz and baroque music.

Bistro Song Vie’s menu embraces seasonal and local produce while showcasing Vietnamese and Asian culinary favourites alongside delicious modern cuisine. The breakfast menu promises to awaken the senses through its masterful combination of nourishing, delectable and fresh dishes and guests can opt for international or local favourites, such as the eggs benedict or phở. All breakfasts can be enjoyed with either Italian or Vietnamese coffee, premium tea, juice or a fresh coconut from the onsite palms.

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The purity of flavour, elegant presentation and the influence of rich culinary traditions from around the world can be sensed in all lunch and dinner plates. Featured dishes are fit for even the most discerning epicure and include betel leaf chicken breast roulade, Kyushu style duo of pork, the trio of octopus legs and the incredibly fresh and vibrant tomato and mozzarella Dalat salad. All courses can be enjoyed with premium wine from renowned global regions while relishing Bistro Song Vie’s famed piece de resistance: the romantic and striking river view. 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3744 6090.

Website: www.songvie.com

GOURMET INSIDER

Louisiane Brewhouse

Where hops and dreams come true Located on the picturesque Nha Trang beachfront, Louisiane Brewhouse promises guests a unique and memorable experience. Whether you want to soak up the sun, enjoy live entertainment or marvel at the spectacular ocean views while relishing the diverse menu, Louisiane has you covered.

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ioneers in the craft-beer scene of Vietnam, the professionally trained brewers at Louisiane use speciality malts and hops imported from Australia and New Zealand in their brews. The venue showcases a diversity of ales and lagers from around the world including pilsner, witbier and the ‘Louisiane Passion’, a unique blend of witbier and passion fruit.

An assortment of seasonal beer is also available, and a favourite amongst guests is the ‘Louisiane Special’, a distinctive brew which celebrates the end of rainy season and is made in time for the Tet holiday.

Louisiane’s diverse and international menu promises to satisfy every diner by featuring traditional Asian food, Vietnamese delights, modern Western dishes, gourmet pizzas and authentic Japanese cuisine.

Signature dishes include bò lúc lắc, Australian beef tenderloin, maki rolls and black beer beef stew. Food can be enjoyed with a glass of wine, a refreshing soft-drink or of course a home-brewed beer that pairs perfectly with the flavours and aromas of your meal.

Also on offer at this unique beachfront venue, are a wide range of day and evening entertainment options. The brewery tour allows guests to learn about and experience first-handthe the art of brewing, while the live evening entertainment from performers, DJ’s and bands offers the perfect opportunity to relax and unwind by the picturesque pool.

Lot 29 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Vietnam. Tel: +84 258 3521948. Email: info.louisiane.vn. Web: louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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EPICURE SEASONS

Fabulously festive

Nothing spells an indulgent Christmas feast more than a bountiful table laden with turkey, traditional delicacies, caviar and premium oysters from Culina.

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hen it comes to providing scrumptious festive feasts, Culina has got the art down pat. The leading purveyor of specialist epicurean foods and beverages offers a bountiful spread of yuletide favourites at its gorgeously revamped outlet at the COMO Dempsey enclave. Come prepared with an ultimate food shopping list and start your browsing experience at the massive 15,000 sq ft space.

From now till 25 December, the colonial barracks will be transformed into a whimsical festive marketplace. Think dazzling fairy lights, a live pine tree, shelves filled with seasonal produce such as the Italian Christmas cake, panettones from Bonifanti and complimentary product tastings.

Expect premium items (pre-order from Culina Market) like Traditional Roast Turkey ($115) with chestnut stuffing and gourmet sauce, Premium Gammon Ham (Boneless, $60), Roasted Black Pepper Baby Back Ribs ($55) and Roasted Mediterranean Beef Striploin ($98) paired with delectable red wine sauce. Take your festive feasting up a notch by getting Kaviari Caviar (from $62) and fresh oysters (unshucked, from $97/box of 24) including Fine de Claire Marennes No. 3, David Hervé’s Tara Oyster No. 3 and Perle Blanche Oyster No. 2 at the seafood section at a special Christmas rate. Then pop by the Grandiflora boutique,

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the brand’s first outpost in Singapore, and complete your table setting with stunning statement floral centrepieces (from $120, with two-day advance notice). Christmas is a great time to indulge and treat your guests to the best festive experience possible and Culina is the indispensable companion to meet all your home entertaining needs.

Fret not if you have run out of gift ideas; Culina has got you covered with a choice of seven different hampers (starting from $150 for The Festive Treats Christmas Hamper). The Magic of Christmas Hamper ($300) includes Castaing gourmet’s terrine set, an original spice honey cake from Maison Toussaint and a bottle of Champagne Taittinger Brut Réserve. Splash out on The Ultimate Christmas Hamper ($800) comprising premium goodies like Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé, kalamata olives from Kalios, plus a classic panettone from Pasticceria. Looking for something unique? Culina can personalise your hamper according to your requirements.

If you prefer to leave your Christmas feast in the hands of the experts, gather your loved ones and head to Culina Bistro for a Christmas Eve dinner or Christmas lunch and dinner ($128+/person including a glass of Champagne Taittinger Brut Réserve, minimum two persons). There will also be festive à la carte specials from 21 December to 5 January 2020.

That’s not all. In collaboration with Club21, from 12 to 15 December, visit their outlets (one store will be outfitted with an installation from Grandiflora) at Hilton Singapore Shopping Gallery and Four Seasons Hotel Singapore for your festive shopping, where Culina’s festive hampers are available.

Culina at COMO Dempsey Blk 15 Dempsey Road Singapore 249675 Website: www.culina.com.sg

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EPICURE SEASONS

In time for the holidays PARKROYAL on Kitchener Road is in the midst of a year-long transformation project, but with Christmas season right around the corner, you’ll still be able to enjoy the hotel’s festive offerings.

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s part of its dedication to improve the guest experience, PARKROYAL on Kitchener Road has been undergoing refurbishment since March this year. The Superior Rooms have been entirely refreshed and now sport soothing, natural colours. The tranquil oasis is bathed in natural light, thanks to the rooms’ large windows. Similarly, the swimming pool, gymnasium and exercise studio have been given a complete revamp to cater to guests’ well being.

Mark 12 December on your schedule, as that is when all-day dining restaurant Spice Brasserie completes its transformation.

The restaurant’s new look is inspired by the vibrant heritage of the Little India neighbourhood, with an evocative décor and matching ambience to boot. Their extensive à la carte and buffet offerings include a tempting selection of Asian street foods and modern interpretations of local classics.

The refurbished Spice Brasserie will be an ideal setting for a casual Yuletide gathering, where friends and family can enjoy the

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Festive Buffet ($52-62 for lunch, $52-88 for dinner; depending on date). Tuck into the Traditional Roast Turkey or grab a slice of Bonein Gammon Ham, finished with Spice Brasserie’s signature ginger and sarsi glaze. Christmas dinner isn’t complete without a yule log, and you won’t want to miss out on the White Chocolate and Cream Cheese Red Velvet Log Cake studded with brandied fruits and toasted nuts.

181 Kitchener Road.

Tel: 6428 3000 Email: enquiry.prskt@parkroyalhotels.com For 20% early bird discount, book with full payment by 18 December when dining between 20-30 December, and by 26 December when dining on 31 December and 1 January.

Spice Brasserie, Lobby Level.

Tel: 6428 3160 Email: spicebrasserie.prskt@parkroyalhotels.com

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EPICURE SEASONS

Li Bai Cantonese Restaurant

Toss to prosperity

The festive yu sheng gets an sumptuous upgrade.

For Japanese-style yu sheng, try Li Bai Cantonese Restaurant’s Salmon Roe and Hamachi Loh Hei Platter (from $98 for small; $178 for large). The ingredients are flown in from Japan and served with a colourful spread of pomelo, sweet potato and pickled ginger. Available for dine-in and takeaway. Sheraton Towers Singapore, 39 Scotts Road. Tel: 6839 5623 Ellenborough Market Café introduces the Prosperity Smoked Kurobuta Pork Yu Sheng ($88). The pork is fried to a crisp like bacon; the savoury strips are then mixed with tender slices of smoked salmon and a tart lemon and plum sauce. Available for takeaway. Swissôtel Merchant Court Singapore, 20 Merchant Road. Tel: 6239 1847/1848

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Ellenborough Market Café

Man Fu Yuan

Golden Peony

Get creative at Escape Restaurant & Lounge’s DIY Yu Sheng Station, which is one of the highlights of its Prosperity Feast buffet (available for lunch and dinner, from $68). The spread will also include Sautéed Roast Pork and Wealthy Poon Choi (dinner only) among other savouries. Lobby level, One Farrer Hotel, 1 Farrer Park Station Road. Tel: 6705 7828

Hai Tien Lo

Seafood lovers will rejoice at Man Fu Yuan’s 60-inch wide Prosperity Yu Sheng ($138, up to 10 guests). It’s teeming with plump scallops from Hokkaido, salmon slices and, for an extra crunch, crispy pork skin. Available for takeaway.

InterContinental Singapore, 80 Middle Road. Tel: 6825 1008 Newly appointed executive chef Ben Zeng of Hai Tien Lo has created a pigletstyle yu sheng platter in a choice of six flavours. The star is the Blossoming Treasures Yu Sheng, which brims with slices of abalone, suckling pig, black truffles as well as crab meat sticks (from $138). Available for dine-in and takeaway. Level 3, Pan Pacific Singapore, 7 Raffles Boulevard. Tel: 6826 8240 Min Jiang at One-North’s Fruitful Abundance Yu Sheng with Whole Abalone comes with a refreshing Raspberry and Sour Plum Sauce (from $118). Expect yuzu jelly ingots, a variety of tropical fruits and greens to go along with baby abalones and tobiko. Available for dine-in. 5 Rochester Park. Tel: 6774 0122

Jade’s Gold Rush Yu Sheng is one of the most extravagant renditions we have seen this year. On top of the lavish servings of abalone, lobster and salmon, it comes with bouncy blobs of champagne jellies. The latter complements the honey pineapple dressing.

It’s available as part of the Grand Fullerton Golden Feast ($238/person). The Fullerton Hotel Singapore, 1 Fullerton Square. Tel: 6877 8188 Golden Peony's Prosperity Treasure Set ($488), available as a takeaway, features a Fortune Salmon and Crispy White Bait Yu Sheng. The tangy starter is also available as part of their Lunar New Year menu ($118/person; $1,398 for 10 persons). Other yu sheng options include The Fortune Abalone and Salmon (from $98) and the luxurious Fu Lu Shou Tri-star of Lobster, Abalone, and Salmon (from $128). Level 3, Conrad Centennial Singapore, 2 Temasek Boulevard. Tel: 6432 7482

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Putting in the

wo(r)k

The vast world of Chinese cuisine can sometimes look like an intimidating art form. These six key techniques will help budding master chefs to build a strong foundation.

By Destin Tay

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Stir-frying This high-heat quick cooking method is popular for its simplicity. No matter which Chinese region you visit, you are bound to encounter at least one beloved stir-fried dish. Sichuanese Kung Pao Chicken, Cantonese-style fried rice and sweet and sour pork, Fujian’s oyster omelettes, and the ubiquitous tomato scrambled eggs... the list goes on.

Wok hei or ‘wok’s breath’ is the unmistakable slight char and smokiness that many say is a sign of a good stir-fry. Contrary to popular belief, it is not difficult to develop dishes with wok hei in a home kitchen, and you do not need a culinary master’s seasoned wok either.

Simply follow the rule of ‘hot wok, cold oil’ – dry-heat the wok to about 300-350°C, so as to ensure that when oil is added in, it instantly smokes up. That smoke is what imparts food with copius wok hei. Ensure that the sides of the wok are heated as well rather than just the base. The increased heated surface area allows for more development of char when stir-frying.

Another key concept to master is to understand the profile of the ingredients that you are frying. Master chef Chan Hwan Kee of Min Jiang at Goodwood Park Hotel says that water content of the ingredients is often overlooked. Water in food will be converted to steam when subject to high temperature, and this steam will impair the development of good char and caramelisation in stir-fried ingredients.

This problem is exacerbated when cooking a stir-fried dish that calls for some sauce; too much moisture will result in a sloppy mess.

Fry high-water content ingredients like cucumbers and tomatoes first, and based on the amount of water that is released, adjust the amount of liquid you add to the sauce. For thick gravies that go into hor fun, potato starch yields a clearer and smoother gravy, while corn starch produces a thicker consistency.

Steaming This technique produces gentle-tasting Chinese dishes with juicy soft textures. Steaming is considered to be the healthiest cooking method as it retains nutrients and preserves the natural flavours of food. This is best seen in classic dishes like whole steamed fish and smooth egg custard.

Without the steaming, technique, millions of diners would not be able to enjoy their mid-morning yum cha ritual, complete with carts filled to the brim with har gao, char siew baos and siew mai.

Even heat distribution determines whether dim sum items like steamed custard buns turn out fluffy or clumpy. Steam has to be well-circulated over the entire surface area of the food so be sure to space the ingredients evenly within the steamer to avoid mushy textures. Leaving the lid on prevents steam from escaping, while constantly reopening it causes dips in temperature.

However, that may make it hard to gauge if the food is cooked. For fish and meats, it’s easy to tell their doneness by sight. If the liquid that surrounds the fish or meat resembles clear soup rather than chalky water, it’s good to go, says Chinese chef Sebastian Goh of Yellow Pot, Six Senses Duxton.

Achieving smooth and velvety Chinese steamed eggs is a different feat altogether. It’s notoriously difficult to get the perfect custard, but there are ways to make things easier. Firstly, ensure that the water is not on a hard boil but a light simmer. Too high of a boil will result in a honeycomb like structure within the custard rather than a homogenous texture. Ideally, the surface of the egg should be completely smooth without any pockmarks.

This can be done by either cling wrapping the surface of the custard before steaming, or using a chopstick to open a small gap between the lid and pot.

The latter allows steam to escape, and prevents condensation from forming on the lid – which would drip down and cause indentations on the surface.

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B

Clockwise: Bittergourd, sweet potato, white turnip, Chinese pickles and cherry tomato from Grand Shanghai Restaurant

Pickling Pickling is one of the oldest Chinese cooking techniques, and these morsels of preserved fruits and vegetables remain mainstays of the Chinese gastronomy scene. They add depth of flavour and are used in a variety of settings, including dishes like Sichuan suan cai boiled fish, preserved vegetable and duck soup and as appetisers for a Chinese banquet. They are wonderful as accompaniments to plain porridge, helping to flavour the otherwise humble meal.

Chinese pickles are mainly split into two different styles: salt pickled and marinated pickles. The former uses mainly salt to preserve the pickles over a prolonged period of time, while the latter uses a mixture of vinegar, sugar and salt as a quick marinade. No matter which style of pickle you choose, always remember that excess moisture is the number one reason for failed pickles. Proper salting of the ingredients ensures that most of the water content is taken out, allowing for the marinade or pickling liquid to penetrate deeper into the pickles.

Those looking for a true Chinese pickling experience should purchase a traditional Chinese pickling crock. These glass or porcelain vessels can be easily found online or at Chinese hardware stores; the unique moat system ensures an air-tight water seal. This keeps oxygen out while allowing carbon dioxide, a by-product of natural fermentation, to escape. This style of pickling develops the most amount of flavour, thanks to the hard work of naturally occurring yeast and lactobacillus bacteria. Should you find the pickling liquid to be developing a white film on its surface, don’t throw it out just yet! This is not mold or a sign of contamination, but a SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast). It signifies that the fermentation process is healthy and maximum flavour is being produced.

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Double-boiling Nothing quite completes a hearty home-cooked Chinese meal like a big pot of double-boiled soup, a specialty of the Cantonese populace.

Despite the name, these soups are not boiled twice but are cooked in ceramic vessels that are heated via indirect heat. The vessel must be sealed properly, usually by parchment paper or plastic wrap before it’s closed by a cover to ensure minimal evaporation. This results in a tastier and more nourishing broth.

The key to Cantonese-style double boiled soups is the slow-fire method. The gentle heat does not overwork the ingredients, and nutrients are not denatured as a result. Use an initial high temperature boil to kick-start the process before turning it down low and cooking for a minimum of two to three hours. Using this technique, along with thorough rinsing of meat to remove scum and blood, will ensure your soup remains crystal clear.

The cornerstone of quality double-boiled soups is, of course, the ingredients. These range from meats and vegetables for a shorter cooking time, to premium ingredients like abalone and sea cucumber that require a longer boil. It’s all about the layering of flavours; consider what kind of flavour profile each ingredient brings to the table and use that as a guideline to craft the taste of the soup.

Start with the base: this often stems from the meat used, be it chicken, pork or duck; alternatively dried ingredients like conpoy and anchovies can also add a layer of umami. Fresh vegetables usually come next, from nutrient dense, peppery watercress, to the sweetness of wintermelon or carrots. Lastly, dried herbs and fruits can be used as the final layer of flavour. These include and are not limited to dried tangerine peels which add a distinct citrusy bitterness; hawthorn berries for tartness; wolfberries for sweetness; and dried angelica root for a bitter earthiness.

Elemen Classic’s Double-Boiled Cordyceps Flower with Peach Gum in Superior Stock

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Braising The Chinese method of braising shares many similar fundamentals to French braising: meat is cooked in a flavourful liquid over low temperature for a prolonged period of time, yielding fork-tender textures and a flavour-packed sauce. The delicate balance of meat to well-rendered fat makes this technique a favourite for meats like pork belly and duck, resulting in signature dishes like red braised pork and braised duck.

The difference, however, comes in how the flavour of the braise is developed. French braises are highly reliant on the creation of fond (brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan when searing meat), while the secret to Chinese braises comes from the usage of master stock. A good flavour base to start your master stock is with any leftover bones you can get your hands on – especially pork and chicken – along with pork fat and skin to add much needed collagen.

Another way that Chinese chefs develop flavour in braises is something that home cooks often miss. Once the stock is added to the meat, most tend to reduce the heat to a simmer immediately, for fear of burning the dish. Executive culinary director of mìmì at The Riverhouse, Daniel Koh, insists on leaving the braise on a high heat for a good five minutes before reducing the flame to a gentle simmer, as the heat helps to coax out more flavour from the meat.

Braised Pork Belly, Grand Shanghai Restaurant

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Min Jiang’s signature roasted Beijing duck

Roasting Crisp Peking duck and suckling pig, deeply caramelised char siew and juicy roast chickens are headliners of this style of cooking, and snaking queues in front of famous stores like Kay Lee Roast Meat in Singapore and Joy Hing’s Roasted Meat in Hong Kong are testament to their popularity. Unlike Western style roasts, the Chinese roasting technique deliberately reduces moisture content as much as possible in order to achieve crispier skin. The key step is to dry out the skin, which most do by leaving the meat unwrapped in the refrigerator (though some condensation may form), chef Jacky Tang of Grand Shanghai Restaurant recommends hanging the meat in an enclosed room with a constant, blowing fan.

Marinades are another way to add another dimension of flavour to your favourite roasts. While there are traditional recipes for char siew and roast pork, crafting your own flavour combinations can be part of the fun too. As a rule, find a balance between the sweet, salty and sour components. Acids such as pineapple or lemon juice act as a natural tenderiser and will not alter the flavour too much, unlike soda powder.

For pork belly roasts like char siew and siew yoke, a good meat to fat ratio is essential. Pork belly that’s too lean will result in a stringy texture, and too many layers of fat in the belly may result in a overly cloying roast. The perfect ratio? 70 percent lean to 30 percent fat. Roasting at a high temperature may be intimidating to beginner cooks, but modern ovens with acute temperature settings will help reduce the margin of error. A favourite of contemporary chefs is to cook char siew sous vide for around two hours before a quick trip to a searing hot oven to crisp up and caramelise the exterior.

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The Gu Zhu Zi Sun tea plant growing on the mountain slopes

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U Cacao pods growing well in a farm in Calinan, Davao, Philippines

p in the misty mountainous regions of China, deep in the natural forests, located at high altitudes of 1,000 meters or more above sea level, is where one will find some of the best and most exclusive wild tea plants. These precious plants are exposed to abundant sunlight, a sufficient amount of rain, and extreme temperature differences between day and night, which are deemed favourable, shares Annie Sun, group chief executive officer of Dynaforce International. Sun is also the founder of Hui Rui Tang – a nascent and bespoke tea boutique specialising in health enhancing teas from the wild forests and mountains of China.

Hong Spices farm at Sunrise.

Peppercorns vines shaded with coconut leafs on the left.

Mango orchards on the right.

More than

“Unlike plantation tea, wild tea does not depend on chemicals, pesticides or fertilisers.

They are deep-rooted plants and have the capability of absorbing more nutrients from the fertile forest soil, living in symbiotic harmony with adjacent wild plants, many of which have medicinal value. This diverse forest environment produces more complex aromas and flavours in wild tea,” says Sun. One such region is the Anhua County in central China where the world famous Dark Tea (a class of tea that has undergone microbial fermentation, from several months to many years) reigns. The fermentation of tea leaves alters their chemistry, affecting the smell of the tea and typically mellowing its taste, reducing astringency and bitterness while improving mouth feel and aftertaste. Besides aiding digestion and relieving fatigue, wild Anhui Dark Tea also contains vitamins, minerals and amino acids that contribute to improving overall wellness. Unlike green tea, which may lose its flavour within a year, fermented dark tea can retain its flavour for many years. This is the reason why fermented dark tea has long been used as a “currency” for barter trade in the Silk Route in the 19th century.

A sip of this prized Anhui Dark Tea will reveal a marvellously mellow and mildly smokey flavour that lingers on the palate. A second or third cup and the exquisite nuances unfurl, and you may experience a gentle warmth spreading through your body as the goodness of wild tea works its magic to soothe your soul.

just a sip What do wellness-focused consumers want in their cuppa? Xie Huiqun discovers rare mountain teas and brews made from cacao beans and pepper vines that will rejuvenate even the most jaded palates.

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Wild Green Tea from Gu Zhu Mountain - Gu Zhu Zi Sun (Purple Bamboo)

Wild Red Tea from Wu Yi Mountain Tong Mu Guan - Hong Xiu Tian Xiang

Wild Anhua Dark Tea shaped into cubes

Tea Pick for prying tea from compressed tea bricks.

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Green Tea from Suzhou Xi Shan - Bi Luo Chun

Wild Yan Cha (Cliff Tea) from Wu Yi Mountain Bai Ji Guan

PHOTOGRAPHY XIN, CALIBRE PICTURES ART DIRECTION DARRYL PESTANA

Annie Sun, group chief executive officer of Dynaforce International and founder of Hui Rui Tang

A Gift from mother nature “High altitude teas are typically more rich, smooth and fragrant, and you can brew them many more times before they lose their flavour, but they grow freely among all kinds of other vegetation and are also usually difficult to reach,” says Sun, who honed her appreciation of tea from her mother, a tea connoisseur. Sun tells us that wild tea farmers often need to hire tea pickers, who are paid by the weight of the tea picked each day. They have to go up into the mountains and deep into the forests to pick the tea each morning and return to the collection centre in the late afternoon.

“It is hard and, at times, dangerous work, so even with higher wages, the younger generations are not interested to take it on.

This leaves the older pickers (mainly in their 60s to 80s) to do this work. However, even with the high labour costs and limited supply, the wild teas produced and picked from the high-altitude locations are worth the added expense for the enjoyment and health of the tea connoisseur,” Sun adds.

“ It is hard and, at times, dangerous work, so even with higher wages, the younger generations are not interested to take it on.

This leaves the older pickers (mainly in their 60s to 80s) to do this work. However, even with the high labour costs and limited supply, the wild teas produced and picked from the high-altitude locations are worth the added expense for the enjoyment and health of the tea connoisseur.”

Sun, who is currently in the wellness business, feels that physical wellness is not just confined to proper exercise, relaxation and sleep.

One also needs proper nutrition, she expresses. She has embarked on this tea journey and business to create her own brand of wild tea (a retail outlet is also in the works) targeted initially at the spa industry and also tea lovers in general (with private tea sessions and events).

At present, there is still a lack of appreciation of the benefits of drinking high quality Chinese tea, especially wild tea. As such, Sun would like to work on “educating the market on the health benefits and the fine art of enjoying quality Chinese tea”. All her teas, which include a variety of red tea, cliff tea and more, will be from the wild, sourced from all over China, and supply will be seasonal and limited.

For more information on private tasting sessions, contact: Email: annie@dynaforceintl.com Tel: 6842 3166

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as chocolate as possible. Of course, it is not as chocolatey as cocoa, but it is all natural and sugarfree,” says Penafort.

The company started out as a specialist in manufacturing quality chocolates with a focus on travel retail and local consumers. Along the way, they learned about the hardships faced by Asian farmers and also about a more natural and sustainable way to make chocolate, which sparked a new direction for the company.

“A big part of our company’s philosophy now is education: telling the untold story of chocolate.

As such, we are looking at small batch production from each single origin plantation. Our general manager, Wilfred Ng, does most of the travelling out to remote farms in the region to source for cacao,” he shares.

As of today, they have partnered with farmers in Sungai Ruan (Malaysia), Vung Tau (Vietnam), Anaimalai Hills (India), Calinan (Philippines) and Lampang (Thailand), and they buy the cacao beans directly. Their single estate chocolates and cacao tea are all 100 percent natural, vegan, halal, glutenfree, dairy-free and nut-free. Penafort explains that going direct is more sustainable for farmers as they are able pay the farmers up to three times higher Jerome Penafort, director of business development for Benns Chocolate than market price by leaving the middle men out of the equation.

Pursuing their intent to study the antioxidant levels and health The sweet spot benefits of their cacao tea, Benns Chocolate has collaborated with Until some 200 years ago, cacao was consumed as a drink, UCSI University in Malaysia, and research has shown that both the says Jerome Penafort, director of business development for Vung Tau (Vietnam) and Sungai Ruan (Malaysia) origin cacao teas Benns Chocolate. have higher antioxidant levels than most regular teas, coffees and “When you are feeling stressed or sad, you feel good after fruits. The Vung Tau Cacao Tea from Vietnam, for example, has close eating chocolate as there are compounds in there that boost to three times the amount of antioxidants as apples and about 60 your levels of endorphins andserotonin. The same compounds are percent more antioxidants than strawberries. in our tea; it is a “feel-good” tea that can help you relax,” Penafort “When blending the cacao tea, we are mindful of three things: explains. flavour, antioxidant level, and aroma. The husk adds a lot of flavours For Benns Chocolate, cacao tea (not to be confused with cocoa) to the tea, and has malt properties that give the tea a nice body and is still a relatively new product; it was soft-launched at Food & Hotel aroma, while the nibs give us the antioxidants. It took us some time Asia in April 2018. Their cacao tea is made of raw cacao nibs and to find the balance, coming up with the right ratio of husk to nibs husk — cacao nibs are the inner fruit of the cacao bean, the key and to achieve the maximum antioxidant count,” says Penafort. raw ingredient used to make chocolate. When you brew it, you will see that it is slightly oily, but that is all natural. The cacao tea has a sweet perfume and a pleasant, mild taste of chocolate without For more information, visit www.bennschocolate.com the sugar.

The cacao tea is also available at Cedele outlets, Naiise, Teapasar, City of Tomorrow, and Bearded Bella.

“Drawing from this history, we wanted to create something that could retain all the superfood nutrients and still tastes as much

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“ When you are feeling stressed or sad, you feel good after eating chocolate as there are compounds in there that boost your levels of endorphins and serotonin. The same compounds are in our tea; it is a “feel-good” tea that can help you relax.”

Cacao nibs

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Large Lesong pestle and mortar

Dried peppercorns and pepper flowers

Fresh peppercorns

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“The idea of pepper tea occurred to us when a customer mentioned that peppers are widely used in Asia together with traditional herbal medicine (Chinese TCM and Ayurvedic medicine for example) as the oils from the pepper help with the absorption of nutrients from the herbs.”

Lai Poon Piau, founder of Hong Spices

Spice of life Love pungent peppery flavours? Then this naturally spicy tea could be just the drink for you.

“The idea of pepper tea occurred to us when a customer mentioned that peppers are widely used in Asia together with traditional herbal medicine (Chinese TCM and Ayurvedic medicine for example) as the oils from the pepper help with the absorption of nutrients from the herbs,” says Lai Poon Piau, founder of Hong Spices.

When Lai opened Hong Spice’s Kampot Pepper farm in 2013, it was with the primary aim to reestablish sustainable economic agriculture in the Kampot region through local employment, bioresearch, and environmental conservation efforts. Kampot and the surrounding area were awarded Protected Geographical Indication status in 2010, and this helped boost the growth of the local pepper industry.

When it comes to farming, Lai believes in an “organic approach employing bio-nutrients and micro-organism techniques to maintain soil health and provide effective pest control without the need for any harmful chemical pesticides”.

On his farm, Lau allows nature to take its course. Pepper vines need to be three years old before the peppercorns are harvested and

only the best berries are selected for use in the pepper tea. During harvest season (around June every year), the berries are allowed to fully develop on the vine so they have the fullest flavour. The berries are then harvested, sorted, processed and dried to create what is considered to be one of the best peppers in the world. As harvest is dictated by nature, supply can be limited.

To produce this deliciously spicy pepper tea, dried peppers are ground with other dried pepper aromatics (pepper spikes, pepper flowers, etc) from the vine. Some organic palm sugar is added to complement the pepper aroma. Add some hot water (not boiling hot) and the result is a an aromatic, pleasant tea that tastes sweetsour for a brief moment before the spiciness comes into play, tingling your taste buds and stimulating blood circulation.

Lai is currently looking for a suitable vendor to manufacture and pack the pepper tea into retail packs; the packing of tea into sachets is still, at the moment, done by hand.

For more information, visit www.hongspices.com Hong Spices products and Lesong mini Wooden Pestle are also available at www.handpicked.sg

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Southeast Asia’s

bean-to-bar story In recent years, the artisanal chocolate movement has gained momentum in countries like Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore and Vietnam. Xie Huiqun delves into the intriguing world of chocolate making that’s closer to home.

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Collection of “local” flavours from Chocolate Concierge, such as kuih salat.

F

or many makers of small-batch, handcrafted chocolate, it is often love at first bite. Five years ago, Jay Chua was gifted with a Madagascar single origin craft chocolate bar for Christmas and it blew him away. It was full of raspberry and almond flavour, but there were only two ingredients on the list - cacao and sugar.

“It was then that we realised the taste of chocolates could be so flat with commercial bars yet so flavourful with craft chocolates.

Since then, we started to experiment with cacao, and making small batches,” says Chua, who is now the chief chocolate maker at Fossa, Singapore's first and award-winning artisanal bean-to-bar craft chocolate outfit.

Philo Chua, founder and owner of Theo & Philo Artisan Chocolates in The Philippines, discovered single origin chocolates while he was working in the States and was intrigued by how it could highlight the cacao taste of a specific region or country, much like wines.

"There was no single origin chocolate highlighting the cacao beans from the Philippines. Having grown up in the country, I knew we have cacao, but it's not normally turned into high quality chocolate bars – it is usually exported as a raw material or turned into a native hot chocolate. I made a snap decision to return home and explore this untapped potential,” he says. Theo & Philo Artisan Chocolates started operations in 2010 and has gone on to become a multi-award winning brand, most recently clinching silver, among other awards, for their Milk Chocolate Adobo at the UK’s Academy of Chocolate Awards 2018.

Ong Ning-Geng moved to Kuala Lumpur from Chicago in 2010 looking for adventure, which he found in the form of chocolate. Chocolate fascinates him on many facets (fermentation, gastronomy, farming, genetics, sensory science, design, physics, and nature, just to name a few), and he founded Chocolate Concierge in 2015.

“Looking back, I was rather naive and optimistic -- knowing that Malaysia grows cocoa and seeing a regional demand for chocolate, I thought I could connect the dots and make it at source.

My first challenge was to find cocoa beans that had the flavour potential to put something new amidst the well-established brands.

This meant that the cocoa had to go through each process with the conscious drive for flavour. That was difficult to achieve without direct control at the farm level,” reveals Ong. To get around that problem, he bought a farm to grow his own cacao beans.

At Krakakoa, producing chocolate is a way to drive the change that they want to see: provide jobs and contribute to economic development. They source only from smallholder farmers and maintain production in Indonesia.

Its mission, according to Sabrina Mustopo, chief executive officer of the Indonesian chocolate brand, is to change the way food production systems impact people and the planet, starting with cocoa. The company provides training and higher prices (up to three times of market price) to empower farmers and provide incentives for sustainably managed plantations and the production of high quality cocoa beans.

As for Vietnamese chocolate brand Stone Hill, products director Loc Pham tells of an arduous journey that led to the brand’s founding. Cacao was first brought to Vietnam by French colonials in the 1890s. When Vietnam gained independence, USSR became the main buyer of Vietnamese goods, and when the USSR collapsed in 1990s, many of Vietnam's industries fell with it. The cacao industry of Vietnam collapsed. Most cacao farmers cut down their cacao trees and replaced it with other industrial crops, such as coffee, rubber, tea, or fruit trees.

Some time between 1997 and 1998, Pham’s father Dr. Pham Hong Duc Phuoc led a programme (set up by the World Cocoa Foundation and Nong Lam University - University of Agriculture and Forestry) to “observe adaptability and productivity of cacao variety in Vietnam”. The selected varieties will then be released to Vietnamese farmers to be grown. The program would also train and educate the farmers in the ways of growing and pre-processing cacao beans to be sold as a commodity. After many years of research, soil rehabilitation work and forest restoration efforts, Dr. Phuoc managed to produce really high-quality cacao beans at his farm, along with other local farmers, but alas, there was no market for premium quality cacao beans.

“Our beans along with the farmers' were sold into the mass market to be mixed with beans of various quality. Our effort and story lost in the mix. Seeing this situation, I felt a sense of frustration and entered the business in 2013,” explains Pham, “To remind us of the difficulties we faced and a tribute to the harsh and rocky terrain of the farm, I called it Stone Hill Farm and launched it in 2014. The goal is to develop and expand as many high quality uses for cacao as possible, utilising all parts of the cacao tree.”

“ Having grown up in the country, I knew we have cacao, but it's not normally turned into high quality chocolate bars – it is usually exported as a raw material or turned into a native hot chocolate.”

- Philo Chua

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70% dark chocolate bar of Pahang origin (Temuan tribesmen village) by Chocolate Concierge

Pistachio Rose Cranberry Dark Milk Chocolate by Fossa

Arenga Classics bars by Krakakoa

A burgeoning market Pham tells us that chocolate appreciation in Vietnam is rising, albeit still at a slow pace. It is after all “not part of Vietnam's traditional food so it is still a new delicacy, to be enjoyed on rare occasions.

Hopefully, that is to change in the coming years”.

“There's been an influx of many bean-to-bar chocolate makers; many of these are also coming from cacao producing countries, which was very rare in the past,” says Chua. He attributed this trend to “accessibility of information and people being more educated about the stuff they consume and where it comes from”.

“In our particular case, demand for artisan chocolates has also risen locally due to also the pride that people feel for having a premium chocolate product made out of local cacao that is on par with the world's standards--which is especially true for chocolates, a product that has traditionally been associated with North America or Europe,” he emphasises.

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Ong reckons that “we are at the pivotal point where there is enough momentum behind artisanal and craft chocolate to tip it into the general awareness of chocolate lovers”.

“There has been an increased awareness for craft, speciality, single origin, bean to bar, direct trade chocolate. In part thanks to the general heightened awareness for other artisan products like coffee, cheese, wine, and whisky,” he says.

“There was no market for craft chocolate in Singapore when we first started out,” says Yilina Leong, business director of Fossa, which was launched in 2017.

“The chocolate that we make is labour intensive and require high quality ingredients that are sometimes difficult and expensive to source. In a market flooded with cheap mass-produced chocolate that people are used to, it is an uphill task to change consumers' and retailers’ mindsets that good chocolate should be priced reasonably higher. We have not fully overcome this challenge yet, but we’re doing our best to make even better chocolates in the hopes that there will be more ‘ah-ha!ʼ (this chocolate is so good, I know why it’s more expensive) moments for people,” Leong says.

Mustopo echoes similar sentiments. “The artisanal or craft chocolate market in Indonesia is growing. We are seeing a lot more chocolate makers, and there is a growing awareness among

SAVOUR EVERY NIBBLE » CHOCOLATE CONCIERGE Hand-crafted bars of single origin are the draw here, especially the Temuan Bean To Bar Pahang Origin Dark and the Temuan Bean To Bar Pahang Origin Dark with Cocoa Nibs.

They have also been experimenting with prolonged fermentation for their cocoa which is “a gateway to unlock some unexpected and unusual flavours”. Chocolate Concierge’s limited edition chocolates are reserved by chefs at Dewakan in Kuala Lumpur and Nouri in Singapore for their dessert creations. They also have a retail counter in Bangsar Shopping Centre, KL. www.chocconcierge.com

65% Dark Chocolate with Green Mangoes with Salt by Theo & Philo Artisanal Chocolates

Stone Hill Chocolate Bars

consumers about the difference between artisanal chocolate and mass-produced chocolate. However, the industry is still in its infancy and most of the general public still do not understand what fine flavour chocolate is, and what artisanal chocolate is, particularly here in Asia compared to say, the USA,” she says.

The prominent type of chocolate made is still bulkto-bar and the world's bestsellers are still sugary milk chocolate, laments Pham.

“The most notable difference in mass consumer chocolate is the pursuit of certifications (Organic, Fair Trade, etc.). That in itself brings a lot of pros and cons.

However, on the top end, the bean-to-bar movement is on the rise and rising fast. For chocolate enthusiasts, a lot more knowledge transference and product education have taken place. This evokes curiosity to bring chocolate back to the way it truly tastes, without alterations or modifications,” he says. Even more interesting, he points out, is the gradual development of the tree-to-bar movement.

“If bean-to-bar is the one percent of the chocolate world, tree-to-bar is the one percent of the one percent if not less. This takes the form of either cacao farmers learning how to make chocolate or chocolate makers themselves establishing their own farms. This allows for experimentation with cultivation, fermentation and so much more, which can lead to wildly interesting results. We will have to see how this plays out down the line,” he says.

» FOSSA Their quirky shrimp and bonito chocolate was inspired by a trip to Japan where these ingredients are so common – a nutty cacao proved the perfect vehicle. Currently, they have an Artisan Chocolate range boasting unique flavours such as Lychee Rose, Pistachio Cranberry Rose, Chilli Peanut Praline, and Sea Salt which is very popular among our consumers. In the 2018 International Chocolate Awards (APAC), their La-EsperanzaRehoboth Coffee Chocolate and Salted Egg Cereal chocolate won them the Silver and Bronze awards respectively. Fossa chocolate can be found at cafes such as Old Hen Coffee Bar and Plain Vanilla Bakery at Yong Siak in Singapore. Fossa chocolates are also available in the States, Canada, Hong Kong, Australia and the Maldives. www.fossachocolate.com » KRAKAKOA Their signature chocolate includes the Single Origin Sumatra bar, which has a very distinctive stone fruit and berry flavour, and their Single Origin Sulawesi bar, which is very earthy, with notes of hops and tea. The Sea Salt & Pepper bar is also really popular, and it has a unique mix of salty, spicy and sweet flavours. In Singapore, Krakakoa chocolate can be found in RedMart and WHSmith in Changi Airport. The bars are stocked in premium supermarkets in Jakarta and Bali, Duty Free stores in Jakarta, Bali and Surabaya, GoFood in Jakarta and online store at www.krakakoa.com/store. » STONE HILL CHOCOLATE Popular bars include their 84% bar, which has notes of smokiness along with dry wood, earthy, mushroom and dark brown fruit notes; their 72% bar that has a balanced sweetness that is easy on the palate with red fruit notes, mid-brown cacao tones, prolonged nutty base, and light yellow fruit finish; and their 66% bar with pronounced floral notes, bright green, and yellow fruit notes with a rolling sweetness. Selected stone Hill Chocolate Bars are available at both SPRMRKT at Cluny Court and SPRMRKT at STPI. www.stonehill.vn » THEO & PHILO Besides the award-winning Milk Chocolate Adobo at Theo & Philo, other bestsellers include their 70% Dark Chocolate made from the finest of Davao's cacao beans, 65% Dark Chocolate with Green Mango & Salt, and the spirited 65% Dark Chocolate with Labuyo (bird’s eye chilli). www.theoandphilo.com

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Beautiful cacao pods, to be used for chocolates by Chocolate Concierge.

Beyond the bonbon These prized, perfectly formed squares and bars may not look it, but the time and toil taken to produce them is nothing short of mindboggling.

“Chocolate is a finicky product to make due to its load of techniques and yearly changes in nature. Things can change a lot during the process, and adjustments must be made to ensure the final product comes out right. There's no real way to learn except through trial and error,” Chua expresses.

Chocolates at Theo & Philo are made with a combination of traditional and modern processes: an old-school melangeur using only natural ingredients and a modern tempering machine for higher consistency. Their cacao beans come mainly from the Davao area and are chosen based on their flavours – it has to be wellfermented, with complex flavours, no off-flavours and defect-free.

Chua adds that they are also working with Gawad Kalinga, a nonprofit organization in the Philippines, to make a better life for the cacao farmers. Pham, who trained at Ghent University in Belgium, uses an environmentally-friendly permaculture model, which aims

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to give back to the land it takes from. They have also developed a cacao fermentation process that is unique for the cacao beans on their farm, designed to bring out the optimal flavors based on the time of year, weather condition, and state of the crops.

"Juice, pressed from cacao pods, will be fermented into Cocoa Cider while the beans are fermented based on our tailored recipe.

The beans are then slow-dried to preserve flavour while removing excess acidity. This takes a delicate balance and careful observation,” Pham says.

The dried beans are stored in their warehouse to age for at least another two months for the flavours to develop completely before being processed. After a quality check by hand for defects, beans are roasted, broken into small bits and separated from the shell.

This results in cacao nibs, which are then milled with cane sugar in a stone grinder over the course of many days into a fine chocolate mass, which is tempered, molded and packaged into bars and ready to be consumed. Pham explains that their chocolate carries the signature profile of Vietnamese cacao, which has pronounced nutty and fruity base flavours.

Cacao Trees from Malabog, Davao. Theo & Philo only uses cacao from the Philippines.

Fossa at work with luscious chocolate

Mustopo, who also trained at Ghent University, shares the same sentiments. Chocolate making is complicated because there are so many different variables that have impact on the final product, she says. Factors such as varietal, terroir, fermentation and drying, roasting profile – they all have an impact on the flavour of the final product.

Mustopo explains, “Unlike other chocolate makers, we not only purchase the beans but also train the farmers to develop the right fermentation and drying process to create beans with the unique flavour profile we want.”

A farmer drying cacao beans as part of Krakakoa's 10-step farmer-to-bar process.

Krakakoa requires their farmers to adhere to sustainability practices and have zero tolerance for deforestation or encroachment of farmland into protected or conservation areas. The farmers would have also received training on organic farm management techniques to help ensure quality.

Fossa starts by sourcing for cacao beans that have great flavour potential and are ethically produced. They pay a premium to obtain the top five percent of the world’s cacao crops from farmers and distributors who care about quality and craftsmanship. “After roasting, we break the beans and remove the husk in a process called winnowing. The nibs are then collected and grounded in a melangeur with sugar (depending on recipe), smoothening the texture and refining the flavour of the chocolate. Finally, we temper and mould the chocolate into bars. Entire process takes about seven days per batch,” says Jay Chua, “Curating cacao with diverse flavours allows for a versatile canvas to complement other ingredients.

We strive for harmony in flavours - unexpected ingredients can make delicious chocolate with the right combination of cacao”.

Having experienced the unique cocoa flavors from each growing region and estate, Ong is deeply committed to Malaysian cacao, making dark chocolate from only single origin beans of cacao, sugar and cocoa butter. The beans come from either what he grows, other partner growers or the Orang Asli (indigenous people of Peninsula Malaysia). The key is to unlock the distinctive flavours of each origin in the final chocolate.

“Our joy is to share and make each of these origins' flavours and stories accessible,” Ong maintains, “Chocolate is first grown before being made. This means that it is dynamic, and this is what is exhilarating for makers. Each harvest is unique, and we celebrate it by bringing out its best. If we can do that, then we've done it justice.”

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G O U R M E T K N OW L E D G E

A guide to Vietnamese coffee culture With each Vietnamese region having its own distinctive way of brewing, serving and enjoying coffee, it is no surprise that coffee culture has become an indispensable part of both Vietnamese history and every day life.

By Thuy Nguyen

The arrival of coffee in Vietnam The first coffee trees followed the French to Vietnam in the 19th century. The main coffee beans at the time were Robusta, which boast a strong and bitter flavour and have undoubtedly influenced the way coffee is enjoyed in Vietnam today.

Coffee began as a luxury drink, enjoyed only by French nobility and the highly-educated. After 1975, coffee farms appeared at a fast rate in the Central Highlands, and coffee became an increasingly popular beverage. From the ‘90s until present day, Vietnam has been the second-largest exporter of this commodity, closely following Brazil.

The coffee trio Hanoi locals will proudly introduce you to egg coffee and recommend that you pay a visit to Giang Coffee Shop to experience this decadent delight authentically.

Legend has it that a well-known chef at the Metropole hotel created egg coffee in an attempt to combat milk scarcity. In the 1940s, the shortage of produce was at a critical high, and it was

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too costly to make a cappucino in the traditional Italian-style. After extensively experimenting, the innovative chef found that egg coffee was a sweet and delicious alternative to the costly cappucino.

To make egg coffee, raw yolk, sugar and milk are vigorously whisked and served atop black coffee. While the drink is still hot, you are advised to softly stir the topping into the coffee to produce a blended taste that is fluffy, tender and bitter.

“In Vietnam, coffee is considered a cultural legacy and the image of a Vietnamese person relaxing with a coffee has been and always will be, a symbol of Vietnam.

With each cup holding an individual story and representing the diverse regions and cultures of the country, coffee in Vietnam is a true art of cuisine.”

Although Hue and central Vietnam do not have an ‘iconic’ coffee beverage of their own, their coffee culture is similar to the temperament of the people: sophisticated, dense and slow.

Coffee shops in Hue and central Vietnam are a relaxing affair and are often located in quiet and peaceful neighbourhoods. Coffee in these regions is usually served in small cups, and the blend itself is denser than the blends found in Hanoi and Saigon.

Locals often visit these casual and relaxing street shops accompanied by a

close companion, and together, with a dripping filter coffee in hand, they unwind and watch the world go by.

After enjoying egg coffee in Hanoi, explore the sweet coffee of Saigon with a “bac siu”. Derived from the Chinese word for “white coffee”, bac siu is a blend of hot milk with a dash of coffee. Its conception, just like that of egg coffee, arose from a scarcity of milk. Condensed milk was used as an alternative and the creative Saigonese not liking the odour of condensed milk and water, added coffee to disguise the smell, creating an iconic beverage in the process.

In Saigon, coffee is considered a “refreshing drink”, and it is often served in a high glass with an abundance of ice.

Locals from Hanoi and Hue may be shocked by the sweetness when first experiencing Saigonese coffee as they are used to a much stronger and deeper taste.

What’s more, those living in the municipality of Saigon tend to enjoy their coffee in accordance with the fast-paced nature of the city, whereas locals of Hanoi and Hue enjoy their caffeine at a more leisurely pace.

In Vietnam, coffee is considered a cultural legacy and the image of a Vietnamese person relaxing with a coffee has been and always will be, a symbol of Vietnam. With each cup holding an individual story and representing the diverse regions and cultures of the country, coffee in Vietnam is a true art of cuisine.

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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Caravelle Saigon

The gift that keeps on giving The Caravelle is celebrating 60 years of opening its doors to Saigon locals, loyal businesspersons and lavish travellers. In its 6-decade history, guests, staff and residents alike have witnessed the hotel evolve remarkably while never neglecting to honour the city’s rich past.

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ith news correspondents utilising the panoramic views to update the world on the war’s daily happenings and curious spectators using the space as both a refuge and opportunity to observe the ground-level horrors, Saigon Saigon, the hotel’s rooftop bar, was a hub of communication during the Vietnam war. Today the sepia photographs, retro interior and mesmerising city views honour this rich history while live bands and impressive cocktail menus-reflect Saigon’s metamorphosis into a cosmopolitan and thriving city.

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After a brief stint of government led ownership under the name of ‘Doc Lap’, Caravelle Hotel returned to its original name and underwent an immense expansion project in the late ‘90’s which saw the establishment become the 335 room, five-star hotel we see today. The seamless work of architects and designers ensured that the new Caravelle was a perfect blend of modernity and antiquity, allowing the space to reflect the changing landscape of Saigon while maintaining the charm which secured its initial success.

Shortly after the epic building works were completed, the hotel revisited the city’s compelling past when acting as a stand-in for The Continental in Phillip Noyce’s film adaptation of The Quiet American.

This opportunity saw the hotel host Oscar nominees such as Michael Caine in presidential suites and means that today, some 40 years after the war, the Caravelle continues to contribute to the narrative of Vietnam.

2019 marks the completion of the hotel’s latest revamp which has seen it completely renovate and modernise all of its guest rooms and suites while implementing innovative techniques to reduce plastic consumption and carbon emissions. Moreover, the addition of an Aperol Spritz bar is further testament to the hotel’s unique blend of modernity and the past as recent years have seen the Italian aperitif rise back to its former stardom.

Guests today can enjoy these modernisations while at one of the many on-site food outlets which accommodate penchants for both traditional and contemporary dining. Whether enjoying seafood buffets at Nineteen Restaurant; delectable small plates at Tapas Kitchen; fine-dining at Reflections; or high-tea at Café l’Opera; the living history of Caravelle Saigon– carried by the interior, views of Saigon landscapes and the longstanding staff – ensures a memorable experience.

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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

A dose of vitamin sea in secluded paradise Escape to paradise at the InterContinental Danang and enjoy a much needed break from the stresses of daily life. Soak up the beautiful Vietnamese sunshine at the beach and indulge in all things luxurious at Sun Peninsula Resort.

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xperience paradise at the InterContinental Sun Peninsula Resort located in DaNang. This award-winning, five-star resort is surrounded by a private beach, stunning rainforest, and jungle cliffs, set within a secluded bay on the East Sea. Designed by world-renowned architect Bill Bensley, the decor has elements of traditional Vietnamese design with a modern and contemporary twist. Taking inspiration from the elements such as heaven, sky, earth and sea, every inch of the space exudes a natural sophistication and beauty.

Home to 201 luxury rooms, suites, penthouses and villas, most rooms boast splendid panoramic views of the ocean and lush rolling mountainside. Every room has a spa-like bathtub, rain shower, flatscreen TV and minibar as well as a classic black and white interior.

The resort is located in close proximity to Hoi An and Hue, allowing visitors a chance to enjoy some of the best destinations in Vietnam.

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On-site, indulge in their yoga, tai chi and Vietnamese cooking classes or get pampered at their Harnn Heritage Spa complete with spa lagoon, private treatment rooms, and eight treatment offerings. The resort is also home to Cure Studio, a manicure and pedicure salon that offers foot therapies and nail treatments curated by Bastian Gonzalez, celebrity recommended podiatrist and pedicurist. For those seeking adventure, their Soar Gym and Watersports Centre provides equipment for kayaking, snorkelling, windsurfing and more.

Savour some of the most magnificent gourmet cuisines at any one of Sun Peninsula’s luxury dining experiences. Chef Pierre Gagnaire, a three-starred Michelin Chef, presides over the La Maison 1888, the resort’s signature restaurant that offers an unforgettable night of culinary magic. Relax at Barefoot, the stylish beachfront restaurant with fresh seafood dishes and seaside views. Or enjoy artisanal Vietnamese dishes and Mediterranian specialities at Citron, an establishment that offers elevated seating 100 meters above the sea.

Experience the magic at Intercontinental DaNang.

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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

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The return of the Grand Old Dame After an extensive two-year facelift, Raffles Singapore has reopened its doors once again.

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here are few hotels in the world whose names have become virtually synonymous with the cities in which they are located – and none more so than the Raffles Hotel in Singapore,” said Christian Westbeld, General Manager, Raffles Singapore on the re-opening of the iconic 132-year-old hotel, after a two-year careful and sensitive three-phased restoration.

The massive restoration project led by interior designer Alexandra Champalimaud and supported by global architecture and design firm Aedas, refreshes the interiors to bring about new suite categories, while adding a compelling mix of lifestyle experiences and dining concepts for tourists and locals alike to experience the flavours of Singapore.

The reopening comes just in time as Singapore celebrates its bicentennial, the 200th year since its modern founding in 1819 by Sir Stamford Raffles, after whom the hotel is named. Raffles Singapore’s 19th century colonial-style architecture has been perfectly preserved both inside and out. Framed by polished teak verandahs and white marble colonnades, the hotel’s suites surround lush tropical gardens.

New suites The revitalised Raffles Singapore offers nine distinct suite categories: State Room Suites, Courtyard Suites, Palm Court Suites, Personality Suites, Residence Suites, Promenade Suites, Studio Suites, Grand Hotel Suites and Presidential Suites. The Residence, Promenade and Studio Suites are the three latest additions to the hotel’s existing line-up, increasing the total suite count from 103 to 115.

The five Residence Suites located in the Raffles Arcade feature either one or two bedrooms and enjoy private access. Built to be a home away from home, each intimate suite comes with a living and dining area, pantry, office space, powder room and bedroom.

For a tribute to the late 1800s, the two Promenade Suites in the front-most corner of the building would be a nostalgic reminder of when the hotel faced Singapore’s beachfront. The suites have been named after two prominent female figures – Lady Mountbatten, the Countess of Burma, and Lady Sophia, the wife of Sir Stamford Raffles.

As for the Studio Suites, the six simple abodes have high ceilings and a verandah that offers views of the tranquil Palm Garden.

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All guests now have their own Raffles Butler, which replaces the need for front desk and check-in services at the lobby. These 24-hour service butlers are available to guests to cater to all needs during their stay, from in-suite registration, booking transport around the city and aiding in packing extra purchases on departure.

The Raffles experience With a 132-year heritage, the Raffles Singapore has a wealth of history and stories to be told. “Raffles Singapore is one of the few remaining great 19th century hotels in the world, and its restoration has been carefully designed to preserve its unique historic charm, while creating extraordinary experiences for our esteemed guests,” shared Westbeld.

For guests and visitors, this means being able to indulge in history at the Raffles Hotel. Returning guests, for example, will notice that the lobby’s front desk has made way for the Writers Bar, which pays tribute to the many famous authors who have stayed at the hotel throughout the years, and serves craft cocktails, champagne, spirits, wines and more.

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LIVING, BREATHING, WALKING HISTORY How does the Grand Old Dame fit in with the rest of Singapore’s history? Leslie Danker, the hotel’s longest-serving employee knows.

Danker is known as the ‘walking encyclopaedia’ of Raffles Singapore. He’s been with the hotel for 47 years, serving as maintenance supervisor, guest relations manager and now as resident historian.

Danker continues to research on the hotel’s history and holds history tours for guests.

Read more of his stories in Memoirs of a Raffles Original and in the 12-story anthology, The Raffles Stories.

Not all of history has been erased of course. Long Bar makes its long-awaited return to continue its proud tradition as the home of the Singapore Sling, the national cocktail that was first concocted here in 1915. Learn more about the gin-based cocktail, and even how to make it at the Singapore Sling masterclass taught by expert bartenders. The Tiffin Room, which has been part of the hotel’s history since 1892, will also continue to serve up delectable North Indian cuisine in its traditional tiffin boxes.

Take home a piece of Raffles history too at the new Raffles Boutique. The gift shop sells souvenirs of all sorts, from gourmet products like Raffles blended teas and specially commissioned leather goods, to exclusive Singapore Sling commemorative glasses and much more for every friend and family in your life.

First opened in 1887 and declared a National Monument a century later in 1987 by the Singapore Government, Raffles Singapore has through the years, gained both local and international recognition as an oasis for the well-travelled. It is a national treasure among Singaporeans who deeply vale its historical significance and unique heritage.

THE KEYS TO THE GHOSTS OF RAFFLES’ PAST Raffles Singapore has had a number of famous personalities as guests over the years, and some of them can be found on the new embossed leather-bound keycards used for check-ins.

Elizabeth Taylor The Cleopatra actress was a guest in the mid-1950s and had a dress designed for her by resident dressmaker, Doris Geddes.

Rudyard Kipling The Jungle Book author visited the Raffles Singapore in 1889 and is said to have feasted on ‘turtle steaks’ then.

Pablo Neruda The Chilean Nobel Prize-winning poet and diplomat was the first to romanticise the idea of enjoying a gin & tonic on the verandah of the Raffles Suite.

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CHEF MASTERCLASS

Mission possible “Health & happiness for our guests: it’s our mission”. Giovanni Parrella’s deep-rooted passion for cooking, dedication to hard work and wealth of experience have earned the Napoli-born chef not only his executive role but also the title as one of the most talented Italian chefs in Saigon.

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ith his cooking career beginning at the tender age of 13, Giovanni’s journey to Executive Chef of The Reverie Saigon has been one of hard work, dedication and devotion. His commitment to food has seen him work all over the world from family-style eateries to Michelin rated restaurants.

Before taking on the mammoth – yet incredibly rewarding – role of Executive Chef at one of the city’s most luxurious 5-star hotels, Giovanni worked in Istanbul, Mumbai and Beijing, exposing himself to some of the world’s most exciting cuisines.

Giovanni’s embodiment of Italian warmth and passion can be sensed in his approach to hospitality and at The Reverie Saigon guests always come first, whatever the cost. Caring deeply about the health and happiness of his customers, Giovanni’s food uses only the finest ingredients sourced from local markets, imported from Europe or grown in The Reverie Saigon’s District 7 farm.

Behind this great chef is a loving and supportive family, a team with a shared vision and the motto “never give up.”

Before talking about The Reverie Saigon Restaurants, I would like to learn more about you. How did your interest in cooking begin?

I was born and raised in a traditional family in Napoli, South Italy.

I used to wake up to the smell of coffee and slowly simmering Neapolitan ragù prepared by my mother with love. That is where I started to become passionate about cooking.

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What about your training and professional background before becoming Executive Chef of The Reverie Saigon?

I started my schooling in 1991, and I was very, very young, not even 13, and I passed the first year of culinary college with the highest awards. Before that, I was not so good in school, which explains how when you do something you love, you excel.

The culinary school I attended was in Cicciano, Napoli and I studied there for three years before completing my master’s degree.

The morning was for studying, and the afternoon was for practicing.

The school was only open in the winter time, and so from June to September we would leave the region and work on resort sites and do real work in the kitchen. During my first year, I was just 13 years old, working in a very famous 5-star hotel in Santa Maria Di Castellabate, Salerno. This is where I started.

Through the years, I have worked for many family-style restaurants, and a range of Michelin rated restaurants and hotels worldwide. At the age of 23, I left home and started my journey in England, where I stayed for one year before returning home to learn English and work in a Michelin restaurant for two years. Through the years, I worked in different parts of Italy, from North to South.

The big change in my career happened when I left the country and began working in Istanbul. It was the end of September 2001, and I told my family that I would be back in five days, but I returned after two years, and while I was there, I opened a brand new restaurant concept.

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After three years in Istanbul, I began my journey with Hyatt Hotels, and from Istanbul, I moved to Mumbai, India where I was to stay for three years before moving to Beijing, China in 2008. When in Beijing, I was assigned to one of the biggest Hyatt properties in the world. This was a wonderful challenge for me. I was there for five years, and during that time, I supported many Hyatt openings all over the region.

After five years of working in Beijing, my friend asked me to help with his project in Saigon. Initially, I was not interested, but after being in the same place, city and hotel for five years, I was happy to experience something new. When I came over to look at the project in Saigon, immediately my mouth was watering, and I realised what a fantastic project this was.

Does Vietnamese cuisine influence your cooking, and if so, how?

We do have Vietnamese and Asian corners in our menus, not in the Romeo and Juliet, but in Café Cardinal and The Long @ Times Square.

We offer Vietnamese specialities and a selection of Vietnamese comfort food, but we try to make it as grandma would make it.

What is your favourite Vietnamese dish?

Pho, it was the first dish that I tried, and I fell in love with it.

What does sustainability and healthy eating mean to you?

A lot of restaurants here make the national dish, Pho, with MSG but we never use this as it is against our policy and my own culinary view. We make the broth as grandma used to make the broth.

We care about the health of our guests, and all of the produce we use is organic. The only thing that is non-organic is our hydroponic ingredients which we grow at our own beautiful farm in D7. This farm helps us use ingredients that are not available in Vietnam, such as friarielli broccoli which features on one of the pizzas at The Long @ Times Square and a dish in Romeo and Juliet. I wanted to try and see if we could grow it in Vietnam, so I brought some seeds over from Napoli, and now it is a product that nobody has but us. We also grow our own basil, arugula, chioggia, zucchinis and many other vegetables and fruits.

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As the Executive Chef of the most famous Hotel in Vietnam, what challenges do you face?

I had an event for 290 people, and at 4 pm, I got a call, and they said: “We have a situation; you have 100 more guests attending.” It was a 7-course gala dinner menu, so this is where you have to prove yourself and say “yes, no problem.” Business is business, we made it happen. I always have something; I study the situation and make our guests our first priority, at any cost. We don’t care about how much things cost. We have to make guests happy; it’s our mission.

Chefs have to find the solution, and you have to be a big brother, papa and master, you have to be everything for your team.

Your team is very fragile, especially here as The Reverie Saigon’s reputation means that people have a choice; if you come from here, it is easy to find another job, but I don’t think there are many hotels that compare…

What kind of experiences can your guests live in Romeo & Juliet, Café Cardinal and The Long @ Times Square?

The Long @ Times Square is located on the ground floor and at over 50m, it is very famous for being the longest bar in the city. It features live music and open-air dining and is known for serving authentic, European comfort foods. One of the signature dishes is the pizza, and since I am from Napoli, there is a lot of love involved in this dish. A lot of our ingredients – flour, mozzarella, extra virgin olive oil, cold cuts, burrata, San Marzano tomatoes – are imported fresh from Europe to offer a unique dining experience. The menu also offers 32 different

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flavours of gelato, which are homemade on a daily basis. Being Italian, gelato is something close to our hearts, and so we are very particular about it. We also offer a large and extensive cocktail and mocktail selection, as well as a big range of wines and spirits.

After the opening of The Long @ Times Square, we opened Romeo and Juliet, and from the name, you can expect a romantic experience. We decided to make it the hotel’s speciality Italian restaurant where guests can enjoy Italian cuisine, which is very regional and traditional. We try to not only offer food, but also an experience, and therefore the presentation and service are very important. At Romeo and Juliet, we have a restaurant manager to ensure that the right pairing of wine is made with the food and all service is very personalised. As per The Long @ Times Square, we also import a lot of special ingredients, and if you were to come right now, you would have beautiful Alba white truffles from Italy.

Café Cardinal is our all-day-dining restaurant, but in the evening it turns into an authentic French fine dining venue. The breakfast there is very special, and we offer 12 different freshly squeezed juices from organically grown fruits, homemade yoghurts , a range of honey, imported milk and a selection of cold cuts. Our French pastry chef prepares over 12 different types of pastries, including classics like the croissant and pain au chocolat. We even offer a glass of champagne for breakfast, and our signature dish is the posh steak with truffle, white asparagus and foie gras. We try to stay away from foie gras as much as we can, but in such an environment, it is still the king of food.

What has been the key to your success?

Hard work, dedication, love and passion. I never think of leaving this world; it has never even come into my mind.

My wife and children also make my job easier because they are very supportive. Some chefs say that it is “the family or the job” but I am the lucky one because I have both.

What advice would you give to young chefs?

Work in a hotel environment with a lot of pressure. Learn as much as you can but remember that the heart must be involved in what you are doing. Knowledge is power and our motto is “never give up.”

But cooking is not for everyone; in fact, 70% give up. My class where I started had 35 of us, but now only three of us are chefs.

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CHEF MASTERCLASS

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The art of Italian flair With nearly three decades of experience under his belt, an exceptional eye for detail and a passion for cooking that runs through his blood, the role of Executive Chef of Le Méridien Saigon could be fulfilled by no one better than Simone Murru.

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rowing up with a family of passionate cooks and a hunger to travel, it seems only natural that Simone Murru pursued a career as a chef.

Murru’s longstanding dedication to the culinary arts has seen him work all over the world and embark on a myriad of gastronomic adventures in Europe, the Middle East and Asia. Murru’s worldly experience has equipped him with more than just culinary wisdom and his years of working as a chef has highlighted the importance of adopting a people-centred approach.

The richness of Murru’s experience, when coupled with his harmonious management style, allow the accomplished chef to deliver consistently exceptional dishes and remain calm and composed while managing all of Le Méridien Saigon’s dining outlets.

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Simone, what made you become a chef?

When I was young, my uncle travelled to America, seeking out the “American Dream.”

He soon became a chef for the Italian Embassy in Washington, and since my family ethos is that you must eat well to live well, he became a kind of legend to us. Years afterwards, my elder brother pursued that same path, and after finishing hotel school, he began to work as a chef all over the world. Since I also grew up with two amazing cooks at home, my parents, the decision to pursue a career as a chef was quite a natural one.

How has working as a chef allowed you to see the world?

Immediately after finishing my studies at a renowned culinary school in Turin, I worked in restaurants and hotels in Italy. My first experience abroad was in Dresden, Germany, and for two years I worked in a fine-dining restaurant called La Villa.

After my stint in Germany, I returned to Italy where I worked for a Michelin star hotel, Antica Zecca. It is here that I worked for the longest period of my career and over the course of ten years, I rose from chef de partie to executive.

Working for an international culinary school as a chef instructor also gave me the priceless experience to learn and travel in Asian countries such as Japan, China and Korea.

Five years ago, I decided to pursue new challenges by working for Marriott Hotels and I had the position of Cluster Executive Sous Chef in two hotels in Kuwait City: The Luxury Collection and Four Points. I was in Kuwait for four years before embarking on my latest professional venture in Vietnam at Le Méridien Saigon.

Is there a dish served at Le Méridien Saigon menu that you particularly love?

I love the special dishes that we serve during the sunday brunch. We renew these dishes continuously, but at the moment, my favourite is the smoked flower crab and sea bass carpaccio with lime avocado purée and fresh Vietnamese herbs.

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What kind of experiences can guests expect at Latest Recipe, Bamboo Chic, Latitude 10 and Art Cacao?

In all of the hotel’s outlets, guests are promised modern interior, calm ambience and friendly hospitality while enjoying local and fresh ingredients.

The Latest Recipe offers international cuisine with a heavy focus on local seafood, especially during the dinner buffet.

Bamboo Chic serves a variety of traditional Vietnamese cuisine that adopts a contemporary culinary approach.

Latitude 10 is both a modern venue that offers different themed events, such as ‘Brews + Bites’, as well as a space for guests to simply enjoy craft coffee or bespoke cocktails.

Finally, at Art Cacao, we serve our pastry chef’s specialities, such as the original croissants in the morning and the éclair selection in the evening.

What is the most rewarding aspect of being Executive Chef at Le Méridien Saigon?

Managing a team of chefs with different characteristics to create a final product that satisfies both the guests and yourself.

And what is the main challenge that you face?

Finding the perfect team members and chefs who are both motivated and passionate to succeed in this extremely competitive market.

Who have been the biggest influences in your career thus far?

I have been in this field for more than twenty years, and all of the people whom I have worked with and met have influenced me in unique ways.

How does Vietnamese cuisine influence your cooking?

To me, the simplicity and freshness of Vietnamese cuisine is incredibly inspiring.

Do you have a favourite local dish?

Pho, definitely! I have tried many different kinds of Pho since arriving in Vietnam but, I always opt for the classic and simple variety: beef, flat rice vermicelli with an abundance of fresh local herbs.

How do you view sustainability and healthy eating?

We all eat, we have to just to survive, but in today’s complicated society, this simple part of living has too, become complicated. To me, things such as sustainability, healthy eating, zero km projects and slow food are all examples of our efforts to live harmoniously. Human beings need to – and love to – live in harmony.

What advice would you give to your younger self?

Work hard to achieve your goals and always respect those whom you work with.

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CHEF MASTERCLASS

A delight of France

Beneath Anne-Sophie Pic’s elegant demeanour lies a steely resolve which has earned her the distinction as the fourth female chef to have been awarded three Michelin stars.

By Victoria Lim 9 8 epicurevietnam

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espite having only five hours of sleep, not a single strand of hair was out of place when we met Anne-Sophie Pic, the much lauded female French chef, who was in town in June to launch La Dame De Pic, Raffles Singapore.

The 50-year-old was up all morning replying emails and keeping in touch with her culinary teams from around the world.

With 10 restaurants and seven Michelin stars under her belt, that’s a lot of work cut out for Pic; it’s a responsibility she takes in her stride since she took over the family’s restaurant business in Valence, France, in 1997. Pic now runs the restaurants with her husband, David Sinapian, as part of the Groupe Pic enterprise.

After her father Jacques Pic’s sudden passing in 1992, Anne-Sophie Pic took Araguani Chocolate over Maison Pic and lost their third Michelin star in 1995. It was only in 2007 that Pic reclaimed their three-star rating and she has been an upward trajectory since. She went on to receive the Eckart Witzigmann Award for excellent culinary art in 2019, then in 14 July 2011, she was named a Chevalier (Knight) of the French Legion of Honour.

You helm Maison Pic, Andre and La Dame de Pic. How do you ensure that the menus are distinctive of each brand’s concept?

With La Dame de Pic, the concept is a bit more casual compared to Maison Pic. Every outlet has to be reflective of its country culture.

In London, you will find hints of the city in the dishes, and I want a Singapore touch for La Dame de Pic too. To ensure that the menus are distinctive, all my executive and/or sous chefs will travel to Valence for a week of training. In that one week, we would work together to create new dishes for each restaurant. This annual training is very important to me as I get to check in with the chefs and troubleshoot the issues they have in their restaurant. It’s usually held in between the seasons, so my chefs can plan the menu for the following season.

What was the inspiration behind using matcha in your signature Berlingots?

The matcha berlingot was made specially for Singapore. I paired it with an aromatic green zebra tomato consommé infused with herb of grace (also known as chou cao, which I discovered during my

runs to Chinatown Market) and marigold, which enhances the berlingots’ French cheese fondue filling.

I want to build a unique identity for my Singapore restaurant, so I will be taking some time during my next trip here to discover the local food scene with my Singaporean colleagues.

There has been much emphasis on chefs’ mental health in recent years. As a female chef-owner, how do you foster a nurturing culture and yet demand excellence in the kitchen?

It’s always about balance. Even though I’ve worked with a lot of men in the kitchen, it is still a struggle for me to find that balance.

I’ve seen some guys behaving like wolves in my kitchen and I had to ask them to leave.

I have a chef’s table in Valence and sometimes I get questions from diners asking why the restaurant is so quiet, and it tickles me. These guests were expecting a lot shouting but this is not how I work. That’s why before service starts, I would give a lot of instructions to my chefs - I have to be precise. On top of that, I explain how I work so that they can understand my thought process.

As an owner, it does not feel good when you cannot give your staff the best and push them to their fullest potential. It’s unfair for them.

As part of a historic family of chefs, are you training your 13-yearold son Nathan to take over?

Nathan is very young, so it’s a bit difficult to say that he is going to be a chef. I think he has a good sense of taste, so I’m training his palate. But, for now, he prefers dessert. Every week, he will head over to the kitchen to look for my pastry chef.

What’s on your pipeline for next year and beyond?

The Groupe Pic is always busy with projects. If we don’t have any, that spells trouble. For now, I will be concentrating on La Dame de Pic, Raffles Singapore. I have some ideas for three new cookbooks, as well as events for the Anne-Sophie Pic foundation. The foundation is very close to my heart (I started it when I became a mum). I see the struggles that these disadvantaged kids and their families go through and it breaks my heart. We organise dinner events three or four times a year, where the children and their families can enjoy food created by award-winning chefs.

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Vianney Massot Restaurant's signature Le Macaroni, a dish fit for an elegant Christmas feast.

A contemporary re-imagination of Massot's mother's Yule Log: La Pomme de Pin

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CHEF MASTERCLASS

Festive family feast Christmas at Vianney Massot's and Lisa Revilla's is a huge affair. Here, they pay tribute to the traditional dishes lovingly prepared by their grand-mères and nanay.

By Destin Tay and Victoria Lim

C

hristmas is a big deal in France.

Come December, every state in the country starts to get dressed in their festive best, from the rustic Christmas markets and décor of Normandy to the glitz and glamour of Paris. Similarly, homes will follow suit; advent wreaths are hung and Nativity scenes are set up on windowsills. It all culminates on Christmas Eve, when the most important tradition of France takes place. Before midnight mass, families must gather for le Réveillon de Noël.

The Réveillon dinner is where the French truly go all out. Premium ingredients and the finest wines are brought out, and Réveillon dinners can last up to six hours. (Staying at the table for long hours is part of the French tradition.) It is a time of merriment and wonder, especially for children, when greeted with a massive table filled to the brim with the grandest festive dishes.

It’s how Vianney Massot remembers his Christmases at home. The 27-year-old, who helms one Michelin-starred Vianney Massot Restaurant, remembers the atmosphere and air of excitement at his family table. He has fond memories of his grandmother and mother toiling away in the kitchen to prepare mouthwatering signatures for Réveillon.

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“My grandmother does it in a very traditional way, serving it with foie gras and roasted chestnuts.

The smell is simply intoxicating; it really gets me in a festive mood” Vianney Massot's La Pintade is inspired by the traditional festive roasts his grandmother would make as a centerpiece to a Christmas feast.

The menu for Réveillon changes from region to region, but a mainstay will always be a gorgeous golden brown roasted bird.

It doesn’t have to be turkey; the entire range of French poultry is used, from chicken to quail to pheasant to goose. However, Massot remembers his grandmother’s La Pintade (guinea fowl) the best. “My grandmother does it in a very traditional way, serving it with foie gras and roasted chestnuts. The smell is simply intoxicating; it really gets me in a festive mood,” shares Massot.

His mother would always prepare the Bûche de Noël (yule log).

The Christmas must-have sports cherry, chocolate and almond mousse, which are classic flavours for a yule log. At Vianney

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Massot Restaurant, the Bûche de Noël is reinterpreted into a modern, contemporary form: La Pomme de Pin. Almond mousse is carefully piped to resemble a pinecone, before the cake is finished with ‘snow’ and edible soil.

What will Massot bring to his family’s table, now that he’s a celebrated chef? “My trademark Le Macaroni. Everything about it just matches what Réveillon is about,” he says. And he’s not wrong; the foie gras filling hidden within the macaroni and copious amount of black truffle is in line with the lavishness of ingredients used during Réveillon. Pair the dish with a rich port and Armagnac sauce and you’ve got a sumptuous Christmas feast.

Chicken Galantina, a must-have from Lisa Revilla's grandmother.

Inspired by her trip to Italy, the Porchetta Lechon is Revilla's take on the classic dish.

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D

o not be confused when you hear the jingling of bells, the soulful voice of Michael Bublé, and spot adorable Christmas decorations at every street corner of Philippines during September. The country is known for organising the longest Christmas fiestas - yuletide parties begin four months early.

And just like her country’s love for the holidays, Lisa Revilla, executive chef of The Dempsey Cookhouse & Bar, and her family are also massive fans of Christmas. “A typical Revilla festive feast is a gathering of over 100 people, including my extended family. Held in one of the function rooms of our ancestral home-turned-hotel, the dinner includes a large spread of festive dishes served buffet style with carving stations. We will also fire up the barbecue to grill chunks of meat,” shares Revilla.

A staple on the table is the Chicken Galantina, a must-have for Revilla’s lola (grandma). This fowl dish is only served during Christmas, and is traditionally made from deboned chicken stuffed

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with farce meat like minced pork, ham, olives, sweet pickles and red bell peppers. Every household has a different interpretation of their Chicken Galantina. “Lola doesn’t have a recipe for this – she relies on muscle memory. The Revilla version features pork, cheddar cheese, olives and ham stuffing, and the stuffed chicken is then roasted instead of steamed, for added flavour,” says Revilla. Unlike her lola, Revilla’s mum go-to dish is the Ensaymadas, a classic Spanish pastry with layers of butter and sprinkled with queso de bola cheese.

As for Revilla, she has added an Italian twist to the classic Lechon. “For the Porchetta Lechon, I use traditional seasonings – a mixture of salt, black pepper, red chillies, garlic, lemongrass, scallions and cider vinegar – but I prepare it the Italian way. And when I cook it, instead of cider vinegar, I use coconut vinegar made by my uncle – it’s aged coconut sap freshly harvested from the tree,” she shares. And this is what the Christmas at Revilla is: traditional, familiar with a touch of modernity.

“A typical Revilla festive feast is a gathering of over 100 people, including my extended family. Held in one of the function rooms of our ancestral home­turned-hotel, the dinner includes a large spread of festive dishes served buffet style with carving stations. We will also fire up the barbecue to grill chunks of meat.”

Ditch the log cake; this is Lisa Revilla's mama's favourite Christmas treat, Ensaymada.

PHOTOGRAPHY EDDIE TEO STYLING DARRYL PESTANA

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CHEF MASTERCLASS

Ceviche Classico at PICA

Penelope Williams

Maurizio Bombini

Nasi Campur a la Bali Asli

Parmigiano Ravioli a la MAURI

Lure of the island Eve Tedja talks to three chefs and restaurant owners who found their way to Bali and decided to make it their home.

W

hat is it about Bali that attracts international chefs from far and wide to set up their own restaurants on what is fondly dubbed as the Island of the Gods? It’s hard to think of another near-perfect destination that boasts friendly people, sun-kissed beaches, incredible surfing opportunities, and of course, an abundance of fresh and exotic produce all year round.

Bali’s dining landscape has evolved significantly over the last decade to embrace various types of cuisine. Be it rustic

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Indonesian fare, Italian cuisine, a healthy spa menu or cutting-edge cocktails, Bali is in a class of its own when it comes to culinary excellence.

As these three chefs can testify, their arduous journeys in climbing the culinary ladder involve training under seasoned chefs, working gruelling hours, and living in several different countries.

These experiences have all paved the way for their new chapters in Bali. Read on for their stories.

PHOTOS BALI ASLI, MAURI AND PICA SOUTH AMERICAN KITCHEN

Cristina Encina

The view of Mount Agung from Bali Asli

Mixing all the spices and ingredients to make Balinese lawar

Sinking her roots in Karangasem Mount Agung is an inseparable part of Bali Asli. It looms majestically amongst the green rice field and forest surrounding the compound. Since opening its carved wooden doors almost eight years ago, the restaurant-cum-cooking school is constantly proving what others say is impossible – that Bali Asli can thrive in an off-the-beaten-path location, far from major tourist spots. It’s all thanks to owner Penelope Williams.

English by birth but raised in Australia, Williams knew nothing about Bali when she moved to the island as Alila Manggis’s executive chef in 2007. By then, she had worked for Gordon Ramsay, tenured at London’s The Savoy and completed stints at Sydney’s Restaurant 41, The Bather’s Pavilion and Danks Street Depot. The long hours of kitchen work started to wear her out, “I felt the need to reassess where I am going in my career. Chefs tend to drift from one place to the other. As you get older, you can’t keep doing that. You need to settle down, put your roots down and get established,” says Williams on her life changing decision to move to Bali.

“Bali was completely different than any place I have encountered before. I fell in love with amazing ingredients like torch ginger flower and fern tips, trying to figure out the different ways I could use them for our menu. I had to relearn how to manage my staff. I discovered that I wouldn’t get anything done if I yelled at them. They will just look at you like you are crazy and walk away,” says Williams, who considers her staff as cultural advisors and as part of her Balinese family.

Her deep love for Balinese cuisine propelled her to start Bali Asli. All of her 12 staffs are locals from Karangasem. Cooking classes and cheerful megibung lunches are conducted for international foodies at its open wooden deck. Williams can often be found leading a curious group of tourists to the traditional wet market, night street food jaunts, rice fields, or riding vintage Vespa on the street of Amlapura.

“I never do anything in the conventional way and here, as a foreign woman, I find the doors are always open. People accept me as I am and are generally quite understanding of my crazy EnglishIndonesian-Balinese pidgin language,” says Williams with a laugh.

She has also found love. Williams recently married her significant other in the fashion of Eat, Pray, Love, right under the watchful gaze of the volcano.

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Fresh seafood delivery at PICA

Poached Sardines, Tomato Seeds, Garlic Confit at PICA

A passion for Peruvian cuisine When Cristian Encina opened PICA South American Kitchen in Ubud four years ago, ceviche and empanada had just started to enter the public’s culinary consciousness in Bali. Yet, Encina trusted his instinct, and together with his wife Monica Fernandez, decided to invest in a small shop on Jalan Dewi Sita. “I have been working all my life in the kitchen, but I rarely cooked Peruvian or Chilean food. So, I went back home, ate a lot of ceviche, trained my palate, and relearned everything that I thought I knew about the

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food that I grew up with,” says Encina. It didn’t take long for the Santiago native to get reacquainted with his heritage. He found out that Chile and Bali have one thing in common: fresh seafood.

The rest is all about seasoning, as he cheerfully pointed out.

Of course, the difference between the two culinary cultures is not as straightforward as Encina claims, but, he is fortunate to have grown up in a food-oriented family. “In Santiago, we rarely ate out. My father is a terrific chef who even opened his restaurant for three years despite his day job as an engineer. My favourite dish growing up is Machas a la Parmesana, which is baked clams with Parmesan cheese,” says Encina. Eventually, he enrolled in a cooking school and worked in Spain, Brazil and New Zealand, learning everything from English to kitchen organisation.

Chef Jacob Brown of The Larder influenced him a great deal.

“He called his restaurant a cafe when it is nothing but a cafe. It was intimate, friendly and the food was amazing. It still is,” says Encina. That influence is mirrored at PICA and its neighbouring taqueria, Cantina where Encina makes some of the best tacos in Ubud.

As his business grew to include 17 staff, so did his family – Encina and Fernandez recently welcomed a baby boy. Their elder daughter is almost the same age as PICA. The family is deeply rooted in their home in Tampaksiring, a quiet town just outside Ubud. “Looking back, everything I know now in work and life, I learned in the kitchen. It is my classroom. Every country and every kitchen that I have been, taught me different ideas, techniques, and skills. PICA is all about flavour. We focus on the taste of the dish, as opposed to focusing on how it looks and adding ingredient that doesn’t contribute to the flavour apart from making it look social media friendly,” states Encina.

Indeed, dining at PICA is to experience South American cuisine at its best. From a refreshing Tiradito Peruvian Sashimi to a hearty Cau Cau de Pescado, Encina dedicates his time to ensure that each dish on the menu is rightly seasoned. “A Balinese told me that PICA - which was named after a sweet lemon from Chile – apparently means a blessing from the gods in Balinese. I’d like to think it is a coincidence, but we are here in Bali, so who knew?” says Encina.

The Smoke Garden, Bombini’s creation at Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve

MAURI’s cocktail snack, the Orange Campari

Italian cooking with a touch of French perfection There was a lot of buzz surrounding MAURI when it opened its doors in Seminyak last November. One of the reasons is the chef behind the Italian restaurant. With two stints as chef de cuisine at Bvlgari Resort Bali and an executive chef at Mandapa, A RitzCarlton Reserve, Maurizio Bombini is no stranger to Bali.

“I grew up in my parents’ restaurant in Puglia. When the other kids played with their toys, I played with cutlery,” he says. At some point in his life, he was a professional cyclist, but when he decided to become a chef, Monte Carlo became his first destination. For the next eight years, he learned all he could about French cuisine.

“French cuisine sets the standard in terms of technique, unlike Italian cuisine, which is still behind in that regard. I often say that the way I cook is to mix Italian emotions with French techniques,” says Bombini.

He met his wife, Stephanie, in Monte Carlo and together they moved to China. There, he got an offer from Bvlgari Resort Bali who was looking for an Italian chef to lead its restaurant, one that came right after he booked a honeymoon trip to Bali at the same resort. The island charmed the couple right away and Bombini spent the next four years leading Il Ristorante to popular acclaim.

“We love Bali for its cosmopolitan quality. We like to think that we fit in with Bali quite well,” says Bombini whose days are now filled with running MAURI which is still, in his words, far from perfect. With white walls, wooden accents and cosy seating, Bombini intends to establish MAURI as a dining destination for contemporary Italian cuisine that goes beyond pasta and pizza.

Together with his team, Bombini is taking the best from Italian cuisine and elevating it with French savoir faire, which is evident by his take on dishes like Parmigiano Ravioli with onion consommé.

“I’ve never thought about opening my own restaurant in Bali, but I was up for another challenge and was almost sure that I had to leave the island to find a job. Then, MAURI came to be. My wife and I always joke that whenever we plan something, it never happens.

So, now we have stopped planning and are enjoying where we are at the moment,” says Bombini.

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W I N E K N OW L E D G E

Let us take you on an adventure into lands unknown with fresh grapes to quench your thirst with. We explore new and newly delineated wine growing regions that are charting their own styles and winning over fans.

By June Lee

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Nyetimber

Sauvignon Blanc grape

O

nce upon a time, vinophiles were characteristically divided into Old World and New World wine drinkers. Strictly geographic, these distinctions referred to the traditional winegrowing areas in Europe and everywhere else, respectively.

Today, style is the most common denominator in deciding what you want to drink – whether an ‘Old World’ style Pinot Noir with lighter body, herb and mineral nuances, or a ‘New World’ style Pinot Noir with fruity, full-bodied extraction, for example. But these are not necessarily made in their traditional territories anymore, and the new generation of wine drinkers is increasingly looking around for novel experiences.

Dr. Jackie Ang, founder of Cherwell Wine & Spirits consultancy and a Stage 2 Master of Wine candidate, explains why his fellow millennials might be more willing to look beyond the beaten track.

He says, “New, up and coming regions often have unique local grape varieties, different from the norm with flavours not found in international varieties. And there is also the ability to explore the terroirs not seen in classic regions – for instance, extreme viticulture in Salta or Patagonia, or volcanic soils in Etna and Basilicata.” Ang also points out that younger drinkers may find better value in these wines, as lesser commercial demand means they generally don’t yet command the higher prices of established grapes or regions.

As a wine educator, he is also encouraged by the increasing levels of knowledge and curiosity displayed by new wine drinkers.

This is echoed in the way winemakers are seeking out new regions, driven sometimes by lower cost but mainly by global warming. Ang sees that even the largest companies, such as LVMH in Yunnan or De Martino in Chilean Patagonia, are moving into fresh regions – an investment that will take several decades to establish results.

He expounds, “Many winemakers want to find new, cooler spots to plant existing varieties for making quality wine. This is especially true in the New World, where the notion of terroir is not as deepseated and winegrowers are much more willing to experiment with new regions. In Sussex, climate change means grapes ripen every year now, producing lively wines with sharp acidity, making for a very refreshing style. In Styria, top quality Sauvignon Blanc is made in a style closer to the Loire than Marlborough, but will it be competitive in Singapore where large amounts of Marlborough wines are available at accessible prices?”

It’s clear that novelty value alone won’t bring a wine region to prominence; there’s a large range of factors from accessibility and drinkability to buzz and even celebrity appeal. We scour the world for five regions you should know now, and which bottles to stock your wine cabinets with to stay ahead of the trends.

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Klapotetz, the traditional wooden bird-scarer in Styria

Steiermark (Styria), Austria

Walter Skoff vineyards

When you think Austrian white, you’d likely think of the country’s superlative Grüner Veltliner or Riesling. Yet down south, where the rolling hills of Austria meet Slovenia, a Sauvignon Blanc revolution has been underway for a couple of decades. At the Concours Mondial Du Sauvignon, an international competition based on Sauvignon Blanc, Steiermark bottlings have often grabbed the spotlight away from more famous regions such as the Loire Valley or Marlborough. Among them is Walter Skoff, who received the highest award, the Denis Dubourdieu Trophy for his Kranachberg Sauvignon Blanc 2015.

The grape was originally introduced to the region in the 19th century by archduke Erzherzog Johann as MuskatSylvaner, which was confusing as it was neither Muscat nor Sylvaner. Between 1999 and 2015, plantings of Sauvignon tripled, thanks to its quality and ageing potential in the Steiermark. As of 2018, a new era was ushered in as all three of Steiermark’s wine growing regions have been designated DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllus, or protected Austrian declaration of origin): Vulkanland Steiermark DAC, Südsteiermark DAC and Weststeiermark DAC. From this year, you’ll see wines from these regions arranged on three levels: Gebietswein (regional wine), Ortswein (local or ‘villages’ wine) and Riedenwein (single-vineyard wine).

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FAST FACTS Climate Mild Mediterranean Soils Volcanic soils, Central Eastern Alps Known for Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling, Morillon (Chardonnay)

Gross Jakobi Sauvignon Blanc 2017 Grape: Sauvignon Blanc $43 from leopold.sg

Beronia

Rueda, Spain Belondrade y Lurton

A two-hour drive from Madrid reveals a landscape more akin to a desert than a thriving viticultural region, but you know you’re in Rueda when patchworks of green vines dot the otherwise sunbaked ruta del vino (wine route). Wine production dates back centuries, but its modern history is much younger – it was the first approved Designation of Origin (D.O) in Castilla y León in 1980, and its claim to fame is the ancient varietal of Verdejo. Wines labelled Rueda must comprise 50% Verdejo, while Rueda Verdejo must contain minimum 85% Verdejo.

Of the 70 old and new wineries operating today, Beronia Wines is an expansion from Rioja where they first started. After a yearlong search for terroir in the mid 2010s, they established two plantations, El Torrejón and La Perdiz, to create a unique coupage of wine from two harvests. By combining an earlier harvest showing more herbaceous aromas together with a later harvest that offers up ripe stone fruit, the blend reflect the myriad traits of Verdejo.

The move paid off when Beronia Rueda 2016 was awarded both Gold Medal at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles and the 2016 Vintage Bacchus award. Verdejo is Spain’s top-selling white wine for a reason; it is excellent with food, with structure that rivals Chardonnay, while its freshness makes for a favoured thirst-quencher, with as much aromatics as a Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Gris.

FAST FACTS Climate: Continental Soils: High plateau, poor stony soils Known for: Verdejo

Beronia Rueda Verdejo 2018 Grape: Verdejo $39 from Iconic Wines Singapore

Belondrade y Lurton 2017 Grape: Verdejo $90 from ewineasia.com

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Provenance

FAST FACTS

Lethbridge

Geelong, Australia Just a one-hour drive from Melbourne is the fiercely independent and family oriented wine region of Geelong, divided into three diverse sub-regions – the Surf Coast, the Moorabool Valley and the Bellarine Peninsula. Wine was produced by Swiss vignerons in the 1840s, making it a centre of wine production in Australia until an outbreak of phylloxera louse in 1875 decimated the local industry for the next 100 years.

It was only in the 1960s that entrepreneurs began to explore winemaking in Geelong again, and this time, they have become known for their world class Pinot Noir, Shiraz and Chardonnay, similar in profile to neighbouring Mornington Peninsula. Unlike the tonier Mornington, however, Geelong is entirely family owned, comprising 60 wineries, 150 vineyards and 40 cellar doors. Oakdene Winery’s Upside-Down House, Provenance Wines’ beautifully restored paper mill factory cellar door and Yes said the Seal wines located at the Flying Brick Cider House are just some of the destinations worth spending the day at, unless you prefer to taste through the region under one roof at the 2019 Geelong Wine Show in October.

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Climate: Cool climate between maritime and Continental Soils: Clay based Known for: Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Chardonnay

Lethbridge Pinot Noir 2016 Grape: Pinot Noir $66 from 1855 The Bottle Shop

Provenance Pinot Noir Regional Series Geelong 2015 Grape: Pinot Noir $62 from Tiger Wines

Nyetimber

FAST FACTS Climate: Maritime Soils: Chalk and other diverse soils Known for: Sparkling wine in Method Champenois style Ambriel

Nyetimber

Sussex, England If your only reference to this region is the current Duke and Duchess of Sussex (also known as Harry and Meghan), then consider this your insider tip of the year: Sussex is home to sparkling wines that aim to topple Champagne as the bubble du jour.

Up until a decade ago, winemaking in England could be a precarious endeavour, as its terroir – just a couple of latitudes north of Champagne – was on the colder side, making it difficult for grapes to ripen. For sparkling winemakers, the decision to plant Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in the late 1980s and early 1990s seemed like folly – but it paid off as global warming has enabled warmer Septembers to harvest these grapes at optimal ripeness, while some parts of Champagne are now ripening too quickly. Sussex has one of the largest clusters of vineyards in the U.K., with over 700 hectares and thirty wine producers. Since 2015, efforts have been underway to apply for the EU’s Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, which guarantees authenticity and origin of products.

Ambriel Blanc de Blancs Brut Traditional Method 2010 Grape: Chardonnay $82 from Corney & Barrow

Nyetimber Rose Multi-Vintage Grape: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier $118 from Analogue Wine Merchant

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FAST FACTS Climate: Continental, driest part of Switzerland Soils: Limestone, granite, schist, loess Known for: Indigenous varieties like Chasselas, Petite Arvine, Amigne, Humagne Rouge (Cornalin)

Provins Eclat 2015 Grape: Petite Arvine, Heïda $98 from Wine Concierge

Just 2% of Swiss wines leave the country, and more than half of its production come from the Valais region. Most of its vineyards line the banks of the river Rhone, enclosed on both sides by steep mountains dotted with ski resorts – in fact, some of the highest vineyards in Europe are here at 1,000 metres above sea level.

As it’s not part of the European Union, Switzerland isn’t answerable to European wine law and has its own wine appellation contrôlée system. This can lead to some notoriety, such as in 2017 when the Valais cantonal government decided to allow Valais winemakers to mix up to 10% of other Swiss AOC wines due to frost damage. In fact, according to Jancis Robinson, Swiss winemakers were allowed to blend imported wines with their own up till 2006 when the practice was banned. For new drinkers of Swiss wines, perhaps the more immediate challenge is getting to know the almost 70 native varieties of grapes, most which you won’t taste elsewhere. Gouais Blanc (Gwäss), saved from extinction is said to be one of the parents of Chardonnay, Riesling, Gamay Noir, Colombard and Furmint, certainly earning its ‘Casanova’ reputation.

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Constellation Pfund 2015 Grape : Cabernet Sauvignon $90 from Wine Universe

PHOTOS KENNY KHAW

Valais, Switzerland

W I N E K N OW L E D G E

Often called the king of grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for some of the most expensive bottles in the world. While Bordeaux is the cradle of Cabernet, we give you a primer on why it excels in these other regions.

By June Lee

{ Almaviva 2016 } From Puente Alto, this celebrated collaboration between Concha y Toro and Baron Philippe de Rothschild never lets you down. The 2016 has a vivid freshness and focused tannins, comprising 66% Cabernet Sauvignon with just 13.9% alcohol. $240 from 1855 The Bottle Shop

{ Montes Alpha Special Cuvee Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 }

Central Region, Chile Chile is Cabernet country, with the grape occupying the majority of its plantings. With a wine industry that took root long before phylloxera struck Europe and was then never affected, Chile’s vineyards are free from the disease and not replanted with American rootstock like many of Europe’s vines. Notes Jancis Robinson, “Chilean Cabernet, most of it still ungrafted, has a particularly direct, fruity flavour, and can be enjoyed when only a year or two old. Some wines have a vague whiff of milk chocolate about them, followed up by something ever so slightly salty on the palate.”

Quality producers pursue a mid to long ageing style that’s as engaging as examples from the Old World with all the energy of the New World.

Montes hails from Colchagua Valley, where long maturation periods imbue the Cabernet with notes of crème de cassis and tobacco leaf. Expect a voluminous and structured fruitiness from this 85% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. $52 from crystalwines.com

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Napa Valley, U.S.A

{ Orin Swift Palermo 2015 } “Power and dignity” is David Phinney’s ode to full-bodied Cabernet sourced across Napa Valley’s microclimates, graced with an image of the Palermo catacombs. Look for ripe cassis, herbal underbrush and welldeveloped tannins in this. $109 from 1855 The Bottle Shop

Fine Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in much of California, not just Napa Valley, but it is Napa that takes the lion’s share of marketing and prestige. Famously, Napa Valley’s terroir includes morning fog and cloud cover that brings more favourable ripening conditions.

High diurnal shifts between day and night also help to maintain acidity, while the generally poor soils encourage vines to work harder to ripen grapes. Some areas also enjoy volcanic soils that add to the ‘dusty’ characteristic of its wines. Napa Valley’s modern era was established roughly 50-plus years ago, and was solidified when Californian wines trumped French First Growths in the famous Judgement of Paris, 1976, organised by wine merchant Steven Spurrier.

Cabernet Sauvignon • originates from Bordeaux, where it was born from its parents Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc • is the most widely planted red wine grape in the world, thanks to its hardiness and adaptability

{ Far Niente Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 } A perfect representation of Oakville, Far Niente’s 97% Cabernet Sauvignon is poised with classic charm and commanding elegance. A solid core of dark plum with precise licorice guiding the palate is underpinned by cigar box notes and plush tannins. $318 from certaincellars.com

• shares similar characteristics with Carménère and the red Txakoli wines of Basque • is one of the most tannic red grapes with thick skin; it develops phenolics that help the wine to age well • contains a distinguishing compound called methoxypyrazine, which usually gives it a subtle black pepper or vegetallike bell pepper note • stands well on its own or in a Bordeauxstyle (claret) blend with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec

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Tuscany, Italy 1971 heralded the commercial release of Italy’s first ‘super Tuscan’, Sassicaia, as well as the production of Tignanello, both using Bordeaux varietals that were not allowed in Chianti at the time. The DOC rules mandated the inclusion of white wine and limited the percentage of Sangiovese, resulting in a watered down wine. The resulting revolution in the 1970s would go on to produce some of Italy’s most renowned names, as well as establish some of the bold blends using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot alongside Sangiovese. Wine Spectator deems the 2015 and 2016 vintages “worth particular attention—they may be the most scintillating back-to-back vintages from Tuscany in the past three decades.”

{ Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 } One of the finest vintages in recent years, with concentration and velvety texture yielding generous blueberry and red currant flavours with subtle oak from two years in French oak barriques. This 91% Cabernet Sauvignon will cellar well for 25 years. $171 from Hai Choo Wines & Spirits

{ Solaia 2015 } Antinori’s historic Solaia was first produced in 1978, a counterpart to Tignanello with which it shares the same estate. Powerful ripe fruit in this harmonious vintage shows sensations of chocolate, licorice and mint, integrated into supple tannins and a long finish. $498 from Vintage Fine Wines

Margaret River, Australia While Shiraz dominates as Australia’s most favoured grape to plant, Cabernet Sauvignon is Margaret River’s calling card. Its wine industry, established in 1967, is often cited as ‘Australia’ answer to Bordeaux’, thanks to a maritime, Mediterranean climate that is similar to Bordeaux in a dry season. As Virginia Wilcock from Vasse Felix explains, “We’re not under pressure to harvest our grapes early because of rain, disease and rot; all the things that winemakers are under pressure to harvest for.” While styles can vary tremendously from producer to producer, what remains constant is the fruit quality. “There was a clarity and delicacy to their red fruit flavours and an elegance in their structure which immediately set them apart,” said James Halliday, on the 2018 vintage.

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V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

My wine princess Vicki Zhao excels as an actress and director, but how does she fare as a winemaker after buying four Bordeaux châteaux? June Lee gets face time with the Chinese celebrity at the official launch of Château Monlot in Singapore.

B

ordeaux has always attracted investors, from royalty to businessmen to celebrities. That Chinese wine lovers are now counted among them isn’t news anymore, but back in 2011 when bonafide film star Vicki Zhao Wei made her first winery purchase, tongues wagged and pundits fretted. Decanter reported that she may have paid between €4 and €5 million for the midrange, attractive St. Emillon Grand Cru château with eight hectares of vineyards.

In winemaking, changes take a long time to implement, and eight years of diligent improvements have passed by at Château Monlot. It’s also taken a while for her wines to reach Singapore.

Zhao has chosen Grand Cru, a wine concierge and bar in The Fullerton Hotel Singapore as her exclusive retailer, thanks to a series of coincidences that took place after she cast Singaporean actor Li Nanxing in her latest web drama, Everyone Wants To Meet You. Li enjoyed Château Monlot so much while drinking with Zhao in China that he encouraged her to make it available in Singapore.

In Mandarin, Zhao quips, “Singapore has lots of the best things in the world including red wines. So I feel that it should also have our wines.”

A flavour profiler While Zhao name-drops her love of Petrus, Pavie and Ausone, her savvy business instincts brought her to Château Monlot, a fiveminute drive away from Petrus. Merlot was and continues to be her favourite grape for its powerful taste profile, though she concedes that there are increasing fans of Burgundy in China. “Every winery is different and offer their own wines that are unique in terms of characteristics and flavours,” she explains. “I am a huge fan of red wines, and at that point I was searching for a winery that best suits

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my palate.” Her sincerity won over retired Petrus winemaker JeanClaude Berrouet, who now consults for various wineries including Monlot. At the day-to-day helm is head winemaker Jean de Cournuaud, whose family has been making wine since 1769, before the French Revolution.

Along with the estate, Zhao bought over the 2008 and 2009 bottled stock and the 2010 and 2011 vintages which were still in barrels at the time. She invested in soil reports, new equipment and other machinery in order to push the quality of the grapes. “Even though we are not the best winery yet, we already have what a ‘best winery’ should have, probably one of the best around,” she says of her modern equipment.

Since her first 2012 vintage, which was a good drinking year, it was 2017 that rates as the most challenging. Frost and other adverse weather conditions combined to decimate many vineyards, and the estate lost at least 35% of its usual harvest. In spite of that, careful tending of the remaining grapes ensured that critic ratings have been favourable, with 90+ from James Suckling, and Jane Anson reporting that, “There is a lovely spicy side to Monlot, a freshness to the fruit without feeling underripe.”

In no hurry Unlike some other Chinese investors, Zhao has not changed the name of the 400-year-old estate or immediately increased its output. “Nature has to take its course,” she shares. “We have already spent 10 years to build our vineyards, and it will take maybe 20 more years to reach

CHÂTEAU MONLOT 2012 Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Franc Taste: Aged in French oak for 14 to 18 months, the top wine comes from 40-year-old vines grown on ideal sandy, claylimestone soil for its intricate spice notes and velvety tannins. Subtle spices, herbs and leafy notes pull together a balanced and attractive St. Emillon style. $198

MONLOT NO.3 BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR 2016 Grapes: 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec Taste: This range was created with a numbering system to represent each appellation, with a fresh, easy drinking style to attract casual drinkers to Bordeaux. Soft ripe tannins combined with red berries and chocolate notes make it a balanced sip. $75 Available from Grand Cru, The Fullerton Hotel Singapore

its prime. A grand cuvée is not something that can be rushed. I’m just happy to see that year by year, there are tangible results, that the ratings are growing better, and that we are proud to serve the wine to others as it tastes good. Not just because I’m Vicki Zhao!”

If Zhao sounds relaxed and laidback, she credits it to her relationship with the estate that sits in Saint-Hippolyte, a picturesque village of about 150 residents within the UNESCO World Heritage Site of St. Emillon. She visits about two to three times a year with her family, taking the chance to absorb the environment and history while also doing important tasks like tasting the blends.

“This is not a holiday villa,” she jokes. “I felt that Monlot’s potential was there when I bought it. Not every vineyard and winery can create the best red wine. For example, if a basketball player does not have enough height, it will be very hard for them to excel. Same goes for the winery, I felt that it had the potential.

That’s why we have been putting in so much time, effort and money into supporting the winery, to ensure that we can continually increase the quality of wines produced. It’s not going to happen in a couple years.”

This year, Zhao made the news again for buying her fourth estate, 12 hectares of organically certified Château La Croix de la Roche in AOC Fronsac and Bordeaux. She bought it as she rarely comes across organic wines in Bordeaux, and it also complements its red wine production with white wine and sparkling bottles. “I’m more interested in cultivating healthier options now,” she says.

But that’s where she’ll stop for the meantime – no “wine empire” or anything like that, she deadpans. “Whether it’s acting, directing or wine, I have to be passionate about it. I won’t go to Italy, Spain, New Zealand or Australia looking for estates. In the end, I will always go back to choosing what I like, and am confident to recommend to people.”

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V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

The point of origin

Tenuta di Arceno stands on the footprints of the Etruscan civilisation, while making strides mapping Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc into the future.

Winemaker Lawrence Cronin gives us a glimpse of this Tuscan idyll.

By June Lee

T

he beauty of Tuscany is well documented, from its warm Mediterranean lifestyle to the dreamy landscapes of rolling hills and ancient cypress trees.

Tenuta di Arceno, located in the southernmost corner of Chianti Classico between the cities of Siena and Florence, also lies in the fork of two rivers, Ambra and Ombrone, which made it the ancient nexus of the mighty Etruscan civilisation. When Jess Jackson from California’s Jackson Family Wines and longtime master vigneron Pierre Seillan first visited in 1994, they embraced not just the vineyards but also the history of the region, naming it Arceno after the Etruscan word archè, “point of origin”.

More excitingly for Singaporean vinophiles, the wines made by Tenuta di Arceno are now available locally, with brand ambassador

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Pierre-Marie Pattieu recently leading a masterclass on both the Sangiovese range as well as its Bordeaux-styled Super Tuscan Arcanum range. To understand how significant these wines are, it's worth noting that Pierre Seillan has received 100-point scores from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate not once but 13 times, and many of those were for his Californian Le Désir Cabernet Franc at Vérité winery (also under the Jackson Family Wines umbrella). To find out how Cabernet Franc is shaping up to be the superstar of the Arcanum range, we got in touch with Teunta di Arceno’s resident winemaker, Lawrence Cronin.

When California meets Chianti In 2002, New York transplant Lawrence Cronin – who got his professional start at Edmeades Winery in Anderson Valley – joined Tenuta di Arceno. Calling Mendocino and Castlenuovo Berardenga (where he now lives) his most favourite cities, it’s easy to see the Mediterranean connection between the two regions. Home is currently an old Tuscan house from the 1500s, where he plays football with his son in the bran. The winery is a 7km motorcycle ride away.

“The best wines are made in the vineyard and a winemaker only needs to guide it safely to the bottle,” says Cronin of his

minimal intervention style. Calling Pierre Seillan the “Obi-Wan Kenobi” of the wine business, Cronin explains that Seillan is a master at blending.

“I try to watch, learn, and remember his approach to making each blend.

Tannin management is critical, especially the 15 to 25 days on the skins during fermentation, and Pierre has his secret method. With over 50 years of experience in winemaking, he is one of the few people that is an expert in all aspects.”

Cronin is equally full of praise of vineyard manager Michele Pezzicolo, likening their team as yin and yang.

“He is the expert in the timing of the vineyard operations. Weather and nature rule his life and he needs to adapt to all the elements and make the best decisions for 110 hectares of grapes. He is more connected to the soil and land of Arceno than any living person.”

To sum up his influence, he says, “You can't make a great wine from bad grapes, but you can make a bad wine from good grapes.”

Frequent stints overseas have helped Cronin get a good grip on diverse grapes, from Sauvignon Blanc at Cloudy Bay and Semillon at Cape Mentelle, to Carménère in Chile and, of course, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Zinfandel and Petit Sirah in Anderson Valley. He credits his love for winemaking to his days in Anderson Valley with 1-ton hand punch down bins of grapes. “It’s beautiful simplicity – punching down on a dark moonlit road behind the winery, bats flying over your head, pushing the cap down with your own muscle, smelling and seeing the fresh juice flow over the skins. It’s wine being made by your own hands.”

TENUTA DI ARCENO CHIANTI CLASSICO RESERVA 2016 Grapes: 100% Sangiovese Taste: Well-balanced, expressive Sangiovese that epitomises the terroir. A fruitful vintage produced deep colour, velvety tannins and ripe plum, cherry and licorice flavours with herbaceous hints. Aged for 24 months and ready for drinking and paired with pasta pomodoro, recommends Cronin. $67

From dream to reality The Arcanum, a Bordeaux-style blend, began in 2002 as a predominantly Cabernet Franc blend. In 2016, the first 100% Cabernet Franc Arcanum was achieved, followed by 2017, in what Cronin describes as a dream come to reality. “They will both express the years in which they were born; a bit more earth tones in 2016 and a bit more fruit tones in the 2017,” he describes.

“When we started we had 1.1 hectares of Cab Franc, and today over 17. With over a dozen blocks at Arceno we can build the architecture of the blend that really expresses the soil and land of Arceno. You can change clones and rootstocks, but in the end the soil is king and decides what the wine will be. I feel we are blending the different soils of our estate and expressing it through the beauty of the Cab Franc.” Some years are tougher than others, with very warm weather in 2017, and cold in 2014.

Thanks to climate change, hail has become more of a problem, from an occurrence maybe every three years, to annually.

While the property consists of over 1,000 hectares, just 110 of those are planted to vines, with the terrain climbing from 300500 metres above sea level. When the Jackson family replanted the vineyards, they developed new maps of the soil, topography and climate details, eventually creating 63 individual micro-crus.

“Some micro-crus perform better in warm years, some better in the cool years,” Cronin elaborates. “It is all about coaxing the best out of each block in each individual year. Every area has something unique. The area in front of San Gusme where we have some great Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc never disappoints, but the whole is better than the parts.”

It may sound simplistic but the Holy Grail of many wines is to have perfect elegance with underlying power. Cronin sums it up, “I have found this balance in great Barolo, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and now we are in search of the perfect Cabernet Franc.”

ARCANUM VALADORNA 2013 Grapes: 74% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Petit Verdot Taste: A concentrated potpourri of currants, cherry, and chocolate notes permeates the nose and palate, superbly supported by a rounded and elegant texture. From the estate’s coolest and most complex Merlot blocks, this is an approachable vintage but can be kept away for many more years. $156

ARCANUM TOSCANA 2013 Grapes: 73% Cabernet Franc, 17% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon Taste: An icon wine built to last, the Arcanum is seductive and floral underpinned by multi-layered spice and espresso notes with a soft, green pepper spiciness.

Velvety tannins and high acidity render it easy to drink now, but easily cellar another 15 years. $443 (magnum) Available from ewineasia.com

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V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

Face to face with Gaia

As charismatic and relentless as her father Angelo, fifth-generation Gaia Gaja of Gaja Wines is taking aim from Langhe to Sicily, placing ‘a volcano on a volcano’. By June Lee

A

ngelo Gaja was a driving force in Italian wines, helping to raise its overall status in the 1960s from cheap and cheerful to respected powerhouse. He presciently innovated earlier than his peers in Piemonte, introducing French-style barriques, tannin management, lower yields, and sheer marketing chutzpah as he expanded Gaja Wines to its current four estates around Italy. Although the 79-year-old patriarch did not accompany his eldest daughter Gaia Gaja on this particular trip to Singapore, the presence of ‘the King of Nebbiolo’ and the weight of his five decades of achievements are much felt.

A family raised on wine In a family where alternating generations named their sons either Angelo or Giovanni, the Gajas were good at hospitality.

The original Giovanni owned a trattoria in the 1800s, and his son Angelo founded the winery in 1859 to supply wine alongside the food. The next Giovanni, Gaia’s grandfather, conceived the striking

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red and black GAJA lettering on the bottle in 1937, while current scion Angelo innovated, expanded to Bolgheri and Tuscany, and opened new markets globally. All three of Angelo and wife Lucia’s children are now working together at the winery – Gaia, Rossana and Giovanni.

There was a time during her teens when Gaia felt constricted by tiny Barbaresco, a town of 600-odd inhabitants. Today, her father quips that she lives closer to the winery than he does. She studied business administration at the University of Pavia, graduating in 2003 before working for one year in San Francisco where she first tasted dim sum and enjoyed a cosmopolitan lifestyle. But the hills called her back. “It’s not about the job or work,” she describes in her perfect English. “Langhe is beautiful, it’s who I am. When you talk about wine, you talk about the region – its culture, expression, taste, style and idea. Barbaresco the wine is not the louder one that catches your attention right away; it’s almost like flowing, aromatic, tasty water!”

CA’ MARCANDA VISTA MARE 2016 Grapes: 60% Vermentino, 40% Viognier Taste: The blend is Gaja’s ode to Toscana, using varieties fermented separately and with a different composition each year. The 2016 brings concentration, and is floral and fleshy with a white stone fruit freshness. The structure lends it well to white meat dishes and can be enjoyed young. $82

GAJA SITO MORESCO 2016 Grapes: 35% Nebbiolo, 25% Merlot, 25% Barbera, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon Taste: Fine tannins and a pure, joyful fruit profile mark this wine as approachable, even as it reveals subtle depths of Mediterranean herbs and a saline, smoky finish. The site’s four varieties are fermented and macerated separately, then blended and aged in oak for 12 months. Decant for enjoyment with meat pasta or mild game. $92

Working with Angelo for the past 15 years has brought their two minds together on how to approach pressing problems, such as climate change. An early attempt by Gaia to turn to biodynamics was vetoed by Angelo in favour of a learning approach, one which Gaia currently admits is the better path for them. In the spirit and respect of biodynamic principles, the vineyard is teeming with life, from their own composting that nourishes the soil, to ‘insect hotels’ and cypress trees that bring back bird life. The aim is not just vine health but overall organism health as an indicator of healthy grapes, with collaborators ranging from botanists and apiarists to students from the University of Bologna who are fighting diseases.

“I am the same age now as my father was when he planted Cabernet Sauvignon in Langhe (1978) and Chardonnay in Treiso (1979),” reflects Gaia, who turned 40 this year. In both instances, he scandalised his neighbours but produced superb wines that soon had others following in his steps. The Gajas believe that Italy’s next

GAJA BARBARESCO 2014 Grapes: 100% Nebbiolo Taste: Despite the wet vintage, Gaja’s Barbaresco from 14 different parcels is an opus of perfumed red fruit, hints of pepper and mint, and fresh acidity. Silky tannins and a balsamic finish complete the perfect balance. One to keep for 20 years; decant if drinking earlier. $265 Available from Pinnacle Wine & Spirits

successes will be in white wine, which led them to establish a joint venture with Alberto Geraci in Mount Etna, Sicily a couple years ago, to make Carricante but also now, a promising foray into reds with the indigenous Nerello Mascalese.

Wines from Nerello Mascalese was in the past considered too light for Italian tastes but has shown its elegance and complexity in recent years with modern winemakers. Grapes are inching higher up the slope, anything from 800-1,200 metres above sea level, making it one of the highest elevations in Italy and also where cooler temperatures will soften the impact of global warming for many years yet. Gaia is two years into the branding of the new vineyard, which she reveals is likely to be called Idda, for “she” – the active volcano of Mount Etna herself. By the time Gaia shares that the local Sicilian folk quip about Gaja being the “new volcano on the volcano,” it seems certain to me that it’s the new face of the brand that they’re referring to.

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CELLAR CHOICE

Another tranche of 2008 vintage Champagne that you can’t resist.

Cristal 2008 The long-awaited Cristal vintage 2008 is here, having been held back two years longer than previous vintages due to its slower evolution. This bottle’s blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay has a dosage of 8g/l, the lowest for Cristal since it was first introduced in 1876 (originally for the Tsar of Russia). The cuvée comes from grapes that enjoy longer hangtime for more fruit maturity, imbuing layers of pear, brioche, toasted almond and kumquat, with loads of acidity that will balance out as it ages. It’s a stellar vintage, similar to the 1988 and 1996, which will hold for a couple decades. $380 from Grand Vin

HIGHLIGHTS • Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Louis Roederer’s chef de cave, has spent 30 years with the firm, and calls the 2008 the “Cristal of Cristals”.

• The vintage has received three 100-pointer scores from Alberto Lupetti (Champagne critic), Wine Enthusiast and James Suckling.

• The next Cristal will be 2012 and is the first which will be 100% fully biodynamic (the 2008 was about 40% from biodynamic vineyards).

BILLECART-SALMON VINTAGE 2008 “Intense and seductive” is Billecart-Salmon’s chief winemaker Florent Nys’ verdict on the 2008 vintage, which he dosed at just 4g/l. The assemblage of mainly Grand Cru 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay was vinified in steel tanks and aged on lees for nine to 10 years, befitting its vintage power and finesse. It’s ready to leap out with aromas of citrus, brioche and Mirabelle plums, while the palate registers the firm structure and notes of elegant white fruit and Breton biscuits. Scallop carpaccio and fine fish are a classic match for this bottle, which can easily keep at least 10 years. $140.10 from Angra Wine & Spirit DEVAUX & M. CHAPOUTIER STÉNOPÉ 2008 This is the first vintage of M. Chapoutier’s first Champagne, made in collaboration with Côte des Bar-based Champagne Devaux. Named for the pinhole camera in French, the wine is produced in every year to capture the “image of the vintage” as opposed to the norm in declaring vintages. No blend or technical information is offered, though ample toasted notes attest to its ageing in oak barrels from the Champagne region.

Its palate comprises citrus, bergamot and praline notes, with a creamy texture and lingering complex finish. The small 3,400 bottle release for the 2008 debut makes this a collectible. $240 from Galiena

The Champagne Dame Kyla Kirkpatrick marks her foray into Asia with the Singapore chapter of Emperor Champagne, a members-only subscription service and events club limited to 250 insiders. Similar to the model of Emperor Champagne in Australia that she founded in 2017, there are tiers of annual membership, ranging from one bottle of wine a month ($128), two bottles ($238) and by-invite only Champagne Collector ($888), with three bottles that include one rare prestige cuvée. Exclusive events are scheduled every six weeks, and bottles are delivered in luxurious Emperor-branded packaging. For those who aren’t sure how to source their own bubbly, this is an attractive avenue for indulgence. emperorchampagne.asia

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Wreath, O’hara Weddings; Damasse blue dessert plate, Haviland; CAFU tealight holder, gold plated, Georg Jensen; Boule de Noël 2019 étoiles Etoile Métal Argenté, Christofle; Seasonal Table Tree Gold in small, medium, large, Georg Jensen

SECRET RECIPES

A FEEL-GOOD CHRISTMAS

Take it from InterContinental Singapore on how to entertain like a pro with a conscious touch this festive season. Whether it's using sustainable or locally sourced ingredients, there are ways to reduce your carbon footprint even during the holidays.

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Mille Feuille of Char-grilled Vegetables with Aubergine in Herb Tomato Sauce Skip the speciality stores and pop by the local wet markets. You will discover quality vegetables, including the ones needed for this ratatouille recipe.

alternating patterns (for example, green

Serves 10

zucchini, aubergine, yellow zucchini) on top

Prep time 15 minutes

of the sauce. Start from the outer edge to

Cook time 20 minutes

the middle of the pan.

» Arrange the sliced grilled vegetables in

» Garnish with chopped parsley and semi-

char-grilled vegetables

dried tomatoes.

• 500g green zucchini • 500g yellow zucchini • 300g aubergine • 100g Provençale paste (available from Amazon.com) • 100ml olive oil • a dash of salt and pepper

Slow-cooked Salmon Fillet with Traditional Condiments This traditional salmon dish (page 64) from Finland is Instagram-worthy and easy to recreate. Opt for a sustainable source; salmon from Salmonfarm, one of the pioneers of Finland sustainable fish farming, was chosen for this recipe.

» Slice the green and yellow zucchini and

Serves 10

aubergine.

Prep time 30 minutes

» Marinade the sliced vegetables with Provençale

Cook time 1 hour

paste, olive oil, salt and pepper. » Heat up the grill and grill the marinated sliced

• 1.5kg salmon fillet

vegetables. Set aside for assembly.

• 5g sea salt • 5g white pepper powder

herb tomato sauce

• 50g fresh dill

• 1kg tomatoes, chopped

• 10 hard boiled eggs

• 100g white onions, chopped

• 2 white onions, diced

• 50g garlic, chopped

• 5 roma tomatoes, diced

• 50g tomato paste

• 120g chives, diced

• 1 bay leaf

• 300g sour cream

• 2 sprigs of fresh oregano

• edible flowers, to garnish

• 2 sprigs of fresh thyme

• chives, to garnish

• 20g fresh basil leaves • 3 tbsp salt

» Preheat oven to 85ºC.

• 1 tbsp sugar

» Season the salmon fillet with sea salt,

white pepper powder and dill. Let it rest for » In a blender, blend all ingredients together until

20 minutes before baking the salmon fillet

a smooth consistency is achieved.

for an hour.

assembly

and dice them. Set aside.

• 100g parsley, chopped

» On a silver platter, place the baked Finnish

• 100g semi-dried tomatoes

salmon fillet on it and arrange the egg yolks,

» Separate the egg yolks and egg whites,

egg whites, roma tomatoes and chives » In a pan, pour the herb tomato sauce. Smooth

the surface of the sauce with a spatula.

according to the picture (page 64). » Then garnish it with edible flowers and

chives. Serve it with a bowl of sour cream.

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Slow-cooked salmon fillet with traditional condiments

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Plant-dyed Ribbons, Eirene Artisan; Mosaique au 24 gold desser plate, dinner plate and presentation plate, Hermès; Grand Attelage Dinner Fork, Hermès; Cheese/Jam Dish Silver Plated Albi, Christofle; Blue Graphik Flutes, Christofle; Floral styling, O’hara Weddings; Grand Attelage Dinner Dessert Spoon, Hermès; Grand Attelage Dinner Spoon, Hermès; Grand Attelage Dinner Knife, Hermès; Rectangular Tray with Silver Plated Malmaison, Christofle; Bernadotte small bowl, Georg Jensen; Silver Plated Albi Bread basket, Christofle; Rectangular Butter Dish Silver Plated Albi, Christofle

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Floral styling, O’hara Weddings; Mobile Heart Palladium Ice Blue, Georg Jensen; Gift Set Ball Ball Palladium Ice Blue, Georg Jensen; Malmaison Candelabra 2 Lights Silver Plated, Christofle, Seasonal Table Tree Gold in small, medium, large, Georg Jensen; Bleus D’Ailleurs Dessert Plate, Hermès; HTS STAINLESS Knife and Fork, Hermès; CAFU tealight holder, gold plated, Georg Jensen; Lisemore Martini Set, Waterford; INDULGENCE Grand Champagne Cooler, Georg Jensen

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Roasted Leg of Gammon Ham with Honey Pineapple & Maple Glaze Not all pigs are created equal. Choose certified organic, free-range and rare-breed pork like the black British Berkshire.

For a preservative-free dish, opt for nitrate-free ham.

Serves 10

assembly

Prep time 15 minutes + 12 hours of brining

• 6kg premium leg of ham, brined

Cook time 2 hours

• honey glaze • 100g woodchips

brined leg of ham

• 100g hay

• 1.5 litres cold water

• grilled pineapples

• 1/3 cup of salt • 1/2 cup of sugar

» Place leg ham on a baking tray and lightly

• 6kg premium leg of ham

glaze the ham. » Preheat oven to 120ºC and roast the ham for

» In a large pot, mix all ingredients together.

1 hour 30 minutes. Every 30 minutes, baste the

Then submerge the leg of ham in the pot for

ham with honey glaze.

12 hours in the fridge.

» Using aluminium foil, fold it into a pouch to

hold woodchips and hay. Light the woodchips honey glaze

and hay on fire and place it in the oven with the

• 250g brown sugar

cooked ham. Lower the temperature to 65ºC

• 300ml maple syrup

and smoke it for 30 minutes.

• 150ml honey

» Set aside the leg of ham for 30 minutes before

• 50ml olive oil

serving it with pineapple chutney and grilled pineapples.

» In a sauce pot, melt the brown sugar slowly and

stirring constantly until it turns to caramel. Then stir in maple syrup, honey and olive oil until a thick glaze consistency is achieved.

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Hibiscus Oval Platter, Wedgwood; Lismore Balloon Wine, Waterford; Mixology Argon Blue Tumbler, Waterford; Damasse blue presentation plate, Haviland; Guilloche Or Gold Underplate Porcelain, Christofle; Jardin D’Eden Dinner fork and knife Silver Plated Gold accent, Christofle; FUSION 3 piece Ring, 18kt white gold, Blue Sapphire, Georg Jensen; VIVIANNA – 34 Mm, Quartz, Pavé Set Diamond Dial, Diamond Bezel, Georg Jensen; Savannah Ring 628 Silver Blue Topaz, George Jensen; Mini Wreath, O’hara Weddings; Anemone Cocktail Server 2 parts Silver Plated, Christofle; Jardin D’Eden Salt and Pepper Shakers on Tay Silver Plated, Christofle; Jardin D’Eden Votive Tealight (Clear crystal lampshade) Stainless Steel, Christofle

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Roasted Australian Beef Rump Beef up your Christmas menu with the hulking Roasted Australian Beef Rump.

Executive chef Eric Neo recommends the rump – despite its status as a secondary cut – for its intense flavour and texture.

Serves 10

roasted Australian beef rump

Prep time 10 minutes

• 5kg Australian beef rump, trimmed

+ 6 hours of marination

• chef’s special blend

Cook time 1 hour 20 minutes

• 2 onions, chopped • 2 celery, chopped

chef’s special blend

• 2 carrots, chopped

• 50g paprika powder

• 30g garlic, finely chopped

• 10g chilli powder

• 30g shallots, blended

• 100g salt

• 80g Dijon mustard

• 20g sugar

• 100ml olive oil

• 10g black pepper, crushed

• 2 sprigs of fresh thyme

• 20g dried mixed herbs (oregano, thyme, rosemary)

» On a large tray, marinade the Australian

• 30g chicken powder

beef rump with chef’s special blend. Pop the

• 20g garlic powder

tray in the refrigerator and allow it to chill for

• 5g nutmeg powder

6 hours.

• 10g aniseed powder

» On a baking tray, lay onions, celery and

carrots before placing the beef rump on top. » In a mixing bowl, mix all

» Bake it for 60 minutes at 140ºC. Then turn

the ingredients together. Set

up the temperature to 170ºC and bake for

aside.

another 20 minutes. » Once done, allow the beef rump to rest for

30 minutes.

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Porcelain Christmas Tree Decoration, Wedgwood; Christmas Present Gift, Wedgwood; Damasse Gold Presentation Plate, Haviland; Hibiscus Plate, Wedgwood

Concept Adeline Wong Art direction and styling Alicia Chow Kirwan Photos Ching Video Tu Jie Rui Text Victoria Lim Recipes Eric Neo and Ben Goh of InterContinental Singapore Shot at InterContinental Singapore

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Cassis Chestnut Christmas ball Award-winning pastry chef Ben Goh took inspiration from Singapore’s roasted chestnut (gao lak) and gave them a luxe festive makeover, transforming them into these adorable chocolate ornament balls.

Serves 1 Prep time 1 hour

» Then cool the mixture down to 35ºC.

Cook time 30 minutes

In a blender, blend butter and the cooled mixture together.

chestnut sponge • 450g chestnut paste

cassis confit

• 150g butter

• 424g cassis purée

• 228g egg

• 70g glucose

• 60g yolk

• 127g sugar

• 81g cake flour

• 8g pectin

• 9g baking powder

• 42.5g lemon juice

» In a pan, heat the chestnut paste until it

» In a pot, heat cassis purée to 45ºC.

turns soft.

» Add in glucose, sugar and pectin, then

» In a bowl, mix the softened chestnut paste

boil it for 20 seconds before adding in

and butter together until it becomes fluffy.

lemon juice.

» Then slowly add in the egg and yolk. » Mix the egg mixture together with cake

assembly

flour and baking powder.

• chocolate dome shell (available from

» Then pop the cake batter inside the oven

Red Mart)

at 180ºC for 10 minutes. » Pipe the crémeux into a chocolate dome

cassis crémeux

shell.

• 45g sugar

» Place the sponge on the crémeux.

• 7g pectin

» Pipe the confit onto the sponge until it is

• 3g ice cream stabiliser

filled to the brim

• 300g cassis purée

» Using a palette knife, even the surface of

• 45g egg yolk

the confit and chocolate shell, scraping off

• 75g butter, softened

any excess.

» Mix sugar, pectin and ice cream stabiliser

chocolate dome shell and place it onto the

together.

filled shell such that it forms a sphere.

» In a pot, heat purée and egg yolks to

» Using a chocolate freeze spray, spray cold

45ºC.

air along the seam of the two domes so that

» Then incorporate the dry mixture to the

the chocolate sets.

» Slightly melt the flat surface of another

heated purée and cook everything to 85ºC.

Check out epicure on YouTube for a behindthe-scenes look at what went on during this month’s cover shoot.

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RAISING THE BAR

Drinking & Healing cures all Located in a historic French colonial house in Ho Chi Minh City, Drinking & Healing provides patrons a reprieve from the busy city behind their exposed brick walls. Dim lighting, as well as glass and metal accents, create a relaxing ambience of luxury.

Whether you’ve had a rough day at work or are just in need of a little fun, the bar’s “healers” are experts at mixing crowdpleasing craft cocktails and lifting your mood.

With an unlimited supply of quality spirits, you can ask for any classic cocktail from their carefully curated menu or let the mixologists behind the bar get creative and mix a unique beverage that’s perfectly suited to your tastes. For those in need of something more substantial, the burger at Drinking & Healing is often raved about and pairs nicely with their quality drink menu. L2, 25 Ho Tung Mau Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 934 110 110

Japanese flavour meets Vietnamese asthetic

It’s time for a cocktail at 2 Lam Son The stunningly decorated bar 2 Lam Son calls the lobby level of the Park Hyatt home. Their bright, contemporary decor is stylishly crafted with upscale, polished timber, stunning glass light fixtures and intricate brass accents. Guests come for the atmosphere of elegance but stay for the premium assortment of wines, cocktails, local and imported beers and more.

Their happy hour runs daily from 5 pm - 8 pm and provides guests 50% off of their drink bill, not including bottles. They often host live performances and designer DJs to elevate guests’ spirits and match the bright, vibrant energy in the room. For those feeling peckish, they also serve a bar and snack menu of delicious dishes. 2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3824 1234

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Sake Central Saigon is one of the greatest celebrations of Japanese culture in Ho Chi Minh City. Not only do they share with their patrons a fine selection of some of the world’s best sakes from both large and small breweries in Japan, but they serve them with grace and elegance. Take part in their intimate tastings or admire the stunning Japanese ceramics, sakes and other goods for sale.

Not only is Sake Central Saigon a great place for date nights, but also private events. If desired, the entire bar can be booked out for parties and transformed into an intimate izakaya experience where they serve upscale Japanese dishes and spirits. Inside, their bright and beautiful long seating is perfect for an elegant gathering to appreciate the beauty of Japanese culture through food and beverages. 59 Dong Du Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3939 0022

Where elegance and sophistication converge An award-winning master of culinary arts, Qui Lounge provides guests with an elegant and contemporary dining experience. Bask in the warm tones of their modern wood furnishings and soak in the charm of the lounge. Treat yourself to their Asian-inspired small dishes that are meant to be shared. They are perfect for an intimate night with friends and loved ones or even as a pre-night out snack.

Quench your thirst with any one of their premium classic cocktails, world-class wines, upscale sakes or Japanese whiskies. As you sip and nibble on your trendy and gourmet libations, DJs perform every night to create a dynamic experience that impresses and delights everyone inside. 22 Le Thanh Ton Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 3828 8828

Feeling spritzy Caravelle Hotel’s latest endeavor has seen them partner with the Campo Group to introduce the newest addition to their premier dining and wining outlets: the Aperol Spritz Bar. Tucked to the side of the Dong Khoi entrance, the small – yet mighty – bar provides a dynamic and lively atmosphere and the chance to enjoy a unique menu of cocktails and apertivo. As the name suggests, the invigorating and effervescent Aperol Spritz, a classic Italian apéritif combining Aperol, Prosecco and soda, is undoubtedly the star of the show and makes for the perfect pre-dinner drink.

Open until late, Caravelle Hotel’s Aperol Spritz Bar is the place to be for those seeking to awaken the senses with a round of aperitif while admiring iconic Saigon views. For more information, please call (84) 906 900 523 or email: culinary@caravellehotel.com

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Back to the roaring ‘20s Kumquat Tree is an authentic speakeasy bar located in the vibrant district of Hoan Kiem. To enter, you must have the special passcode to get through their eye-catching red wooden door. As you step into this aesthetically pleasing updated traditional shophouse, take in the east-meets-west influences that make Kumquat Tree distinctively unique. With exposed brick and beautiful hardwood flooring that covers both levels, groups enjoy great conversation while sipping expertly curated cocktails.

Local mixologists at Kumquat Tree have devised an exquisite list of ten signature cocktails using premium alcohol. They also offer choice wines and other spirits for guests. Take part in their nightly after work special when cocktails and drinks are mixed for only VND 95,000. Stop by on Fridays or Saturdays to enjoy a lively evening of dancing while guest DJs spin the best genres of music. 1 Nguyen Khac Can Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 98 268 53 35

Comfort and cocktails

A culinary rendezvous

Newly renovated into the stylish space that it is today, Angelina in the Metropole Hotel of Hanoi serves not only a fabulous set of cocktails and whisky but also a modern menu of international recipes. Great care goes into the creation of their gourmet comfort dishes, and only the freshest seasonal fruits and vegetables are used. One of their most famous menu items is their 12-hour Wagyu beef short ribs served with truffle mash and a red wine reduction.

Angelina also specialises in rare and vintage whiskies and skillfully prepares delicious cocktails every evening. Enjoy their popular angel-in-a-box cocktail that combines a ten-year whisky from Talisker with applewood smoke, Oloroso sherry and shiitake tincture. Take the night off with one of their whisky creations or classic cocktails in their beautiful modern and contemporary twolevel bar and restaurant. 15 Ngo Quyen Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 24 3826 6919

Located in the Somerset Westpoint Tay Ho Luxury Apartments, MAD Society is an upscale modern Asian dining experience. Their vintageinspired decor is very pleasing on the eyes, while their culinary options are a delight to your taste buds. The cuisine is a fusion of Asian flavours and features international spices such as Vietnamese fermented fish sauce and Korean kimchi. They serve a delectable assortment of Asian style tapas that pair excellently with their wine selection.

Wet your whistle with any one of their heavenly cocktails mixed with only the finest spirits. Or indulge in their collection of vintage whiskies which is one of the largest in all of Hanoi, with over 200 varieties. Enjoy their happy hour offered daily and get 50% off glass drinks between 5 and 8 pm. Fridays come alive at MAD Society with live jazz performances and free cocktails for the ladies from 8-10pm.

4F Somerset West Point, No.2 Tay Ho, Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 24 7109 9298

140 epicurevietnam

Where your perfect cocktail awaits you

A haven for all gin enthusiasts Tucked away in Hanoi’s vibrant Old Quarter, is the art deco-inspired MAD Botanist Gin Bar. Inside, dark timber wall panels, polished wood floors and gleaming brass fixtures exude a luxe sophistication. The walls are lined with some of the finest gins from around the world as well as other spirits used in their creative cocktail offerings. Once inside, you immediately feel like you’ve stepped back in time to the speakeasy era.

From the bar, enjoy stunning rooftop views of Hanoi’s famous old cathedral right across the street.

Their gin tasting menu offers gin enthusiasts the opportunity to sample up to eight different types of gin that are paired with exquisite garnishes and Thomas Henry tonic. Their stylish menu provides guests with detailed information as to the origins and types of gin in a demonstration of their expertise. While gin is their speciality, their creative cocktail menu of other spirits, wine and beer is also something to marvel at. 45 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 24 2246 4123

Gallery Bespoke Cocktail Bar is a classic and upscale purveyor of craft cocktails.

Creativity is greatly valued in this industrial-style venue, and you feel it from the retro leather seating to the art gallery covering much of the exposed brick walls.

The timber flooring and leather armchairs are the definition of sophistication as well as the expertly curated wall of spirits that are lit by beautiful light fixtures.

Stop in to enjoy their comprehensive menu of aperitifs. They serve their own unique signature cocktails and categorize them by taste profile, making it easy to find the drink you crave. Enjoy creations that espouse flavours such as spice, herbal, floral, sour and sweet. They also serve modern classics and add a contemporary spin on beloved recipes. If you’re feeling more lively, enjoy one of their bespoke bottles of spirits like gin, rum, whiskey or vodka and the bartenders will happily whip up a delicious personalized cocktail for you. 95 Phung Hung, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 94 111 14 20

An evening of intrigue and murder Jigger Cocktail & Wine Bar boasts high-quality cocktails that only use the best fresh and local ingredients. The mixologists at Jigger take great care to produce classics with a special twist that please the palettes of their guests. All of their cocktails follow a theme of “murder mystery” with 20 unique recipes named after various characters in their imaginative murder narrative. If that wasn’t enough creativity in a drink menu, their specials are served with an eye-catching delivery.

Guests enjoy their creative cocktails in a beautiful industrial space. The exposed brick, black and white wall hangings and eye-catching bottle display truly embody the era of speakeasies. Not only are they renowned for their intriguing cocktails, but they also host a vibrant music scene and where various live music and DJ perform an array of different genres.

Enjoy hip-hop, r&b, house music and more. 59 Nam Ngu Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel: +84 94 888 84 20

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RAISING THE BAR

Latitude with an attitude Get into the mood at Latitude 10, a cafe by day moonlighting as a creative cocktail bar by night.

T

rendy, cozy, intimate, and chill; these words describe Le Méridien Saigon’s cafe lounge and bar, Latitude 10, to a T. Connected to a sweeping lobby and designed with large open spaces and shades of vibrant burgundy, red, and orange, this eclectic space undergoes a transformation each day when the sun begins to dip below the Saigon River.

By day, the space buzzes with energy as businessmen meet over a cup of crafted coffee, freelancers work on their latest creations, and hotel guests plan their daily activities. Anyone can take advantage of the “Work at Latitude 10” package running from 9-5 which includes free-flow tea and coffee along with a gourmet healthy lunch, all for VND 350,000 (USD 15).

As the light begins to fade through the floor to ceiling windows, the paneled menus behind the bar silently flip from a background of white to black as the evening’s latest concoctions come out to play and the live band strums its first chords. Happy hour runs from 5-8 pm offering an all-you-can-drink deal on red, white, and sparkling wines, as well as margaritas, martinis, and craft beer, all in a seductive evening glow of dimmed lights and sultry music.

In addition, Latitude 10’s craft cocktail series takes mixology to a whole new level by creating classic cocktails such as the Manhattan and Old Fashioned and then aging them inside oak barrels. The Ca Phe Negroni in particular, a modern take on a traditional favourite, is a huge crowd pleaser. 3C Ton Duc Thang Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: +84 28 6263 6688.

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TIPLE TIPS

Martina Breznanova, bar manager of The Gibson in London, brings her mesmerising martinis to Nutmeg & Clove.

Here is one to jumpstart your happy hour. balsamic caviar

SEA SPARKLE • 40ml KI NO BI Gin • 7.5ml shiso leaf sake • 12.5ml dry vermouth • 4 dashes of absinthe • 10ml salted mineral water infusion • 3 tbsp pickled green and 2 tbsp pink peppercorns • 6 pickled caper berry leaves • 2 tbsp algae garnish • sea sponge macerated in dry vermouth • balsamic caviar shiso leaf sake • Infuse 5 leaves into one 720ml bottle.

shiso leaf sake

shiso leaves

pink peppercorn

PHOTOGRAPHY EDDIE TEO STYLING DARRYL PESTANA ON LOCATION NUTMEG & CLOVE

» Place all liquid ingredients into a Soda Stream bottle, then add the infusion ingredients. » Charge the bottle with 3-4 pieces of dry ice pellets to add carbonation. The idea is to create a dry/slightly salty style of martini with very gentle bubbles. These bubbles are to uplift the flavour of cocktail and also to make it feel lighter in alcohol. » Serve in a coupette glass. Garnish with sea sponge and balsamic ‘caviar’. For an alternative to balsamic caviar, use tapioca pearls infused in balsamic vinegar.

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AT H O M E W I T H

Eat, sing and be merry A meal prepared by architect Warren Liu in his home involves good food, much cheer and opera music as dessert. By Low Shi Ping

G

Designed for gastronomy The four-storey terrace house the Lius live in is clearly set up for entertaining. As an architect and head of his own practice A D Lab, Warren personally saw that its design would be conducive for mealtime gatherings.

The main door is on the second floor, accessible via a flight of stairs in the front garden, opening directly into the living room. A balcony flanks it, fitted with artificial grass and outdoor furniture, making it the perfect space for a pre-dinner apéritif.

14 4 epicurevietnam

In the middle of the house is an internal courtyard with a planter box built into a pond, from which a ficus tree grows. A money plant hangs down from the bannister on the third floor, giving the home a leafy, green heart.

On the first floor is the dining room and kitchen, seamlessly connected by a sizeable island that doubles as a food preparation station and table that sits nine. Consideration is even given to friends with children – the little ones have their own seating area recessed into the ground by the courtyard, overlooking the pond and decorated with colourful cushions.

PHOTOGRAPHY MUNSTER

uests who are invited to a meal at Warren Liu’s home know that they are in for a treat. Warren, the head of the household, is the chef; his wife Marlene and daughter Shan serve the food. Blessed with an operatic voice, Shan usually sings for guests at the end of the meal. If they are lucky, Marlene, from whom she inherited this gift, joins her.

The private performance is like a rich dessert at the end of a wonderful repast. It’s no wonder that their guests (typically relatives of Marlene’s from Canada, where she is from, and friends) eagerly anticipate their warm hospitality.

“I opted for an open concept because the plot is small, just under 1,400 sq ft. Yet, because we want to identify the spaces within the continuum, and keep it spacious, we used colours to subdivide the sections of the house,” Warren explains.

The living room has hues of orange splashed over low-slung lounge-like sofas. The dining room is accented by turquoise chairs, an in-between colour of the ficus leaves and the blue of the dipping pool at the back of the house. The kitchen runs the length of the space, done up primarily in black to make it invisible and render the final effect less busy.

Oriental inspiration Dressed in a black Chinese-style long shirt or changshan, Warren is in the kitchen hard at work preparing the meal. In fact, this sight was only seen in the last five years, after he and his family of four moved into their current place, as his previous homes were not conducive for cooking.

“I find it relaxing because you need to focus entirely on the food and you get immediate enjoyment when you eat it. I like to share this, so I entertain. It is also a way for me to escape from work.”

The theme for the dinner is Shanghai chic, and he has prepared a menu featuring dishes from China, inspired by a house party he attended recently in Sri Lanka, which served wantons.

The dinner kicks off with a spicy cucumber salad from the north, followed by a nourishing winter melon pork bone soup. There is also a Shandong chicken served with a black vinegar dressing, and of course, wantons in spicy sauce.

White ceramic plates with blue floral prints are placed on the table, a gift from his sister who lives in Beijing. The centrepiece is an elegant floral arrangement from Charlotte Puxley Flowers, made up of hydrangeas and delphiniums.

As the seven guests gather around, Warren takes up position in between the island and kitchen where, like a true home-chef who loves to entertain, he cooks and chats with his friends at the same time.

“A Chinese menu is the most difficult to make. It takes a full day of preparation, as opposed to a Western menu, which can be done in half the time. There are a lot of ingredients that go into every dish. If I don’t practice often enough, I have to refer to the recipe,” he laughs, as he peers at a tablet positioned among the plates and bowls that displays the step-by-step instructions.

After spending three hours preparing the feast, Warren finally sinks onto a barstool and helps himself to a bowl of Sticky Spare Ribs and Noodles. Shan steps into the limelight her father has vacated and treats the party to a rendition of Mon Coeur S’ouvre A Ta Voix, a French aria from the opera Samson and Delilah. Her rich voice fills every corner of the dining room, the experience like sinking your teeth in a slice of dark chocolate fudge cheesecake.

Everyone is spellbound.

As the last notes fade into the night, there is a second of stunned silence before the room bursts into applause. Warren looks on proudly, beaming at his daughter before he quips, “That should aid digestion.”

epicurevietnam 145

SPICY CUCUMBER SALAD

» After cooling the oil for 15 minutes, mix it

with the rest of the spices using a blender or

Serves 8

whisk.

Prep time 20 minutes Cooking time 2 hours

salad • 2 whole cucumbers

spicy chilli oil

• 6 tbsp of light soy sauce

• 2 cinnamon barks

• 4 tbsp of dark vinegar

• 2 star anise

• 1 tsp of sugar

• 2 pcs of ginger

• 8 cloves of minced garlic

• 6 cloves of garlic smashed

• 4 tbsp chilli oil

• 2 cups of vegetable oil • 4 tbsp chilli flakes

» To prepare the cucumber salad, slice the

• 2 tsp five-spice powder

cucumbers and remove seeds. Cut them into

• 2 tsp of salt

2-inch sticks and smash them with the flat face

• 3 bay leaves

of a cleaver knife. This will allow the dressing

• 2 tsp Sichuan peppercorn

to soak into the cucumber. » Prepare the dressing by mixing the rest of

» Prepare the spicy chilli oil by cooking the

the ingredients with the chilli oil.

spices, ginger and garlic in vegetable oil in low

» Pour the dressing and mix it well with the

heat until brown.

cucumber slices. Marinate for at least 1 hour

» Strain the oil and set aside.

before serving.

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Spicy cucumber salad

» Boil the water in large pot. Rinse pork bones

and drop them in boiling water. Boil for 10 minutes. Turn off heat, remove bones to plate and strain stock a few times until clear. Put bones, ginger and stock back in pot and boil another 20 minutes. » Meanwhile, slice off the rind of the winter melon, remove center pulp and seeds and slice into ½ inch thick slices. Rinse dried shrimps.

Wash straw mushrooms and slice into 1/8 inch thick slices. » Skim any foam off the top of the soup. Add

melons, mushrooms and dried shrimps to soup. When soup boils, turn heat to medium low and cook covered for 1 hour. » When time is up, add salt to taste, if

necessary.

» Mix the all ingredients for the wantons,

except for the diced prawns, using a blender or food processor. » Mix the prawns into the blended minced

meat. » Wrap the wantons with Shanghainese

wanton skin. spicy sauce • 1 tsp sugar • 8 cloves minced garlic • 3 bird’s eye chilli

WANTONS IN SPICY SAUCE WINTER MELON PORK BONE SOUP Serves 8

• 6 tbsp light soy sauce

Serves 8

• 6 stalks of spring onion, chopped

Prep time 20 minutes

• 4 tbsp chilli oil

Cooking time 1 hour

Prep time 20 minutes Cooking time 2 hours

• 4 tbsp black vinegar

» Prepare the spicy sauce by mixing the spices

wanton

and ingredients with the chilli oil.

• 600g of minced pork • 14 cups water

• 2 eggs

cooking the wanton

• 4–5 big pork bones

• 2 tbsp light soy sauce

» Add 2 tbsp sesame seed oil to a pot of water.

• 3 half-inch thick knobs of ginger

• 4 tsp corn flour

» Heat water till boiling.

• 1½ inch thick round slices of winter melon

• 2 tbsp chicken stock powder

» Cook till wantons are floating in boiling

• 15 dried shrimps

• 400g diced prawns

water.

• 10 straw mushrooms

• 7 stalks of diced spring onions

» Strain the wantons and serve with the spicy

• salt to taste

• dash pepper

sauce.

epicurevietnam 147

SHANDONG CHICKEN (Twice-cooked chicken with black vinegar dressing) Serves 8 Prep time 20 minutes Cooking time 1 hour • 3 onions, quartered • 2 carrots, cut up • 10 whole black peppercorns • 8 chicken Maryland pieces • vegetable oil for deep-frying • 6 spring onions thickly sliced black vinegar dressing • 6 tbsp black vinegar • 8 tbsp vegetable oil • 2 tbsp soy sauce • 2 small chillies, chopped • 4 tbsp coriander leaves, chopped » Fill saucepan with 2 spring onions, carrots

and peppercorns. Pour in enough water to cover the chicken by 2.5cm and bring slowly to boil. » Once boiling, reduce the heat and simmer

for about 6 minutes. Remove from the stove and set aside to cool completely in the liquid The chicken will continue to cook during this time. » To make the black vinegar dressing, whisk

together the vinegar, oil, soy sauce, chilli and coriander leaves. » Half-fill a heavy-base pan or wok with oil

and heat to 190°C, or until a cube of bread dropped into the oil browns in 10 seconds.

Cook the chicken pieces, skin-down first for 5 minutes or until golden and crisp. Turn and fry the other side for another 5 minutes. » Drain well and chop into bite-sized pieces. » Pour dressing and garnish with remaining

chopped spring onions

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Shandong Chicken

Sticky spare ribs and noodles

• 60ml double cream • 5 leaves gelatine • 125g potato starch or corn flour

STICKY SPARE RIBS AND NOODLES

» Fry the vegetables: Peel and finely dice the

• 100ml water

onions. Peel and mince the garlic and ginger.

• 3 tbsp desiccated coconut

Add the onions, garlic and ginger to the pan

Serves 8

with the remaining vegetable oil. Fry gently

1 » Cook raspberries, 450ml water and caster

Prep time 20 minutes

for 10 minutes, until they are all soft. Add the

sugar in a small sauce pan and bring it to a

Cooking time 2 hours

five-spice powder and pepper, fry for a minute

boil. Keep whisking while cooking to help the

then add the tomato purée, honey, black bean

sugar and raspberries dissolve.

• 2 rack of pork ribs, cut into individual ribs

sauce and mushrooms (if you’re using them).

2 » Soften gelatine in cold water. Add coconut

• 2 tbsp vegetable oil

» Cook the pork ribs: Fry for another few

milk and double cream into Step 1 and bring it

• 2 onions

minutes then pour in the chicken stock,

to a boil again. Turn off the fire and leave it for

• 4 cloves garlic

pineapple juice and soy sauce. Put the ribs

10 minutes.

• 1 knob of ginger, minced

back into the pan and put a lid on it. Put the

3 » Add gelatine to Step 2 and keep whisking

• 2 tbsp five-spice powder

pan in the oven and bake for 2 hours.

to help it mix evenly.

• 2 tbsp black pepper

» Finish and serve: Finish the sauce with the

4 » Mix potato starch and 100ml water evenly

• 2 tbsp tomato purée

juiced lime and stir through the chopped

and add to Step 3.

• 2 tbsp honey

coriander. Toss the sauce with the noodles

5 » Line a sheet of parchment paper in a

• 100g black bean sauce

and serve.

baking tray. Pour Step 4 mixture in and leave it

• 20g dried shiitake mushrooms (optional)

in a fridge till it forms.

• 500ml chicken stock • 1 litre fresh pineapple juice • 4 tbsp soy sauce

6 » Slice the snowflake cakes and coat with

RASPBERRY SNOWFLAKE CAKE

desiccated coconut before serving.

• 2 limes • 4 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped

Serves 8

• 400g cooked egg noodles

Prep time 20 minutes

Raspberry snowflake cake

Cooking time 1 hour » Preheat the oven to 170°C. » Fry the pork ribs: Heat half of the vegetable

• 55g raspberries

oil in a large saucepan and add the ribs. Fry

• 250ml coconut milk

over a high heat to brown all over then take

• 450ml water

them out of the pan and set aside.

• 200g caster sugar

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S E E N & S AVO U R E D

A celebration of culinary genius An event hosted by Park Hyatt every year, Passion Week brings together some of the world’s best creatives and master chefs to share their craft with the world. Dive in and learn a new skill during one of their artistic master classes or sit back and enjoy the culinary expertise of Michelin Star Chefs at the dinner table.

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ast year’s highly successful Passion Week event hosted

by Park Hyatt Ho Chi Minh, returned to the city October 23rd - 26th as one of the most anticipated events of the year. As part of Park Hyatt’s Masters of Food & Wine series held in locations all over the world, the second annual Passion Week brought world-renowned artists and Michelin Star Chefs to the beautiful city of Saigon.

The week was filled with unique and exciting master classes where participants worked closely with experts in their given field to learn valuable skills and experience a rare peek into the world of artistic mastery. Master classes included topics such as; photography hosted by Hoi An’s beloved photographer Rehahan, wine by Aurore Devillard of Domaines Devillard in Burgundy, as well as mixology by celebrity mixologist Shingo Gokan of Tokyo. The other classes included topics covering Vintage Watches, Art Collecting, Floral Design, and more.

Not only were there master classes sharing various artistries, but famous Michelin Star Chefs attended and catered four exclusive lunches and four gala wine dinners throughout the week in a celebration of gastronomy and culinary art. This year’s chefs included a visit by Jun Lee, the owner of SOIGNÉ in Seoul, South Korea, which has held one Michelin Star since 2016. His cuisine infuses the best of French, Italian and American techniques into traditional Korean dishes. Chef Jacob Jan was also in attendance, the owner of De Leest in Vaassen, Netherlands, which boasts an impressive three stars. His cosmopolitan and creative dishes have long been recognized as some of the best in the world. One-star Chef Ryohei Kawasaki of Noborimachi Saryo in Japan and two-starred Chef Gaetano Trovato of Arnolfo Restaurant in Tuscany were also in attendance, sharing their gourmet cuisine with event-goers.

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S E E N & S AVO U R E D

Conservative vs.

Conservative World Week of Italian Cuisine in Saigon.

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ontamination and evolution, but keeping the high expectations for authentic Italian food. This is the formula Federico Pinzi, Italian chef and entrepreneur in Saigon, is adopting to bring Italian cuisine closer to the Vietnamese palate. With a background in chemistry and a huge experience in different countries (Russia, Belarus, Philippines, Australia, Singapore, Vietnam), Federico is the co-founder of Pasta Fresca, an Italian food chain specialized in pasta, with three locations in Saigon.

November 20th 2019, in the opening event of the World Week of Italian Cuisine in Saigon & South-Vietnam, titled “Conservative vs. Conservative. How an Italian restaurateur is approaching the Vietnamese taste for food”, Federico ran a dynamic conversation, moderated by the Consul General of Italy Dante Brandi, with Vietnamese food bloggers, influencers and media representatives, on how two gastronomic cultures like the Vietnamese and the Italian, both with strong traditions and distinct tastes, could approach, find intersections and finally like each other.

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S E E N & S AVO U R E D

Fit for a King Widely held as “the King’s Wine” in the Court of Versailles, the world renowned Château Lafite-Rothschild brought its nobility to Vietnam in November to fuel an unforgettable Wine Dinner event.

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he 1st and 2nd of November saw Red Apron Fine Wines & Spirits, Vietnam’s exclusive supplier of Chateau Lafite Rothschild, organise an unparalleled Wine Dinner experience with Mr Jean-Sébastien Philippe of Château Lafite Rothschild at The Reverie Saigon and Press Club Hanoi.

With just 25 guests all imbued with the deepest passion and admiration for the eight century heritage of the wine estate, the showcased vintages of Château Lafite Rothschild from the years 1998-2013 and the 2001 and 2006 vintages of Chateau Duhart Milon were treasured, savoured and enjoyed by all.

Pairing this emblematic wine selection with complementary and exquisite cuisine, the Reverie Saigon and Press Club Hanoi served an impressive assortment of hearty – yet elegant – dishes including partridge, veal, Rossini style poultry pie, brie cheese and tartufo.

The harmonious union of one of the world’s most soughtafter wine estates, The Reverie Saigon, Press Club Hanoi and Red Apron Fine Wines & Spirits, makes this Wine Dinner one of Vietnam’s most prestigious events.

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WHERE TO FIND

• • • • • • • •

Le Meridien Saigon

HOTEL Ho Chi Minh • An Lam Saigon River • Caravelle • Chloe Gallery • Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon • Hotel Des Arts • Hotel Nikko Saigon • Intercontinental Asiana Saigon • Lotte Legend • Le Meridien Saigon • Mai House Saigon • Mia Saigon • New World Hotel • Norfolk Mansion • Novotel Saigon Centre • Oakwood Residence Saigon • Park Hyatt Saigon • Pullman Hotel • Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon • Rex Hotel • Saigon Prince Hotel • Sedona Suites • Sofitel Saigon Plaza • Sheraton Saigon Hotel • Sherwood Residence • Somerset Vista Hochiminh City • The Reverie Saigon • The Myst Dong Khoi • Villa Song Saigon • Windsor Plaza Hotel Con Dao • Poulo Condo • Sixsense Con Dao Nha Trang • An Lam Retreats Ninh Van Bay • Intercontinental Nha Trang • Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa • Sixsense Ninh Van Bay • The Anam Da Nang • Fusion Maia Danang • Furama Resort & Spa • Hyatt Regency Danang Resort And Spa • Intercontinental Da Nang

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Hoi An • Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai Hue • Alba Wellness Resort • Banyan Tree Lang Co Ha Noi • Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake • Intercontinental Hanoi Landmark72 • JW Marriott Hotel Hanoi • Sheraton Hanoi Hotel • Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi Phu Quoc • Fusion Resort Phuquoc • Hyatt Regency Nam Nghi Phu Quoc Island • Intercontinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort • JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa RESTAURANT Ho Chi Minh • An Vien Restaurant • Anh Tukk Modern Thai Cuisine • Argentinian Steakhouse El Gaucho • Au Lac Do Brazil Restaurant • Boomarang Bistro Saigon • L’usine Cafe & Restaurant • La Villa French Restaurant • Hoa Túc Restaurant • Moo Beefsteak • Opus Sai Gon • Pendolasco Restaurant • Uraetei Yakiniku Restaurant • Refinery Bar & Restaurant • San Fu Lou • Tandoor Vietnam • The Log Restaurant • Thai Cong Restaurant • Villa Royale Downtown Antiques & Tea Room • 3G Trois Gourmands Da Nang • Bushido Restaurant • Bistecca Restaurant Danang • Don Cipriani’s • El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse • Hai Cang Da Nang Restaurant

Mr. Anh Restaurant Nen Restaurant Olivia’s Prime Steakhouse Pizza 4p’s Hoang Van Thu Retro Kitchen and Bar The Rachel Restaurant The Temptation Restaurant Tra House & Bistro

Ha Noi • Bow Thai • Cloud Nine Restaurant • EMM’s French Bistro • Essence Restaurant • French Grill • Hanoi Garden Restaurant • Hanoi Ocean House • Hanoi Serene Cuisine Restaurant • La Fiorentina - Italian Restaurant • La Badiane • La Verticale • Madame Hien • Maison Vie Restaurant - Fine French Cuisine • Kimono Japanese Restaurant • Opera Garden Restaurant • T.U.N.G Dining • Red Bean Restaurant • Teddy’s American Grill House • Tunglok Heen AIRPORT Ho Chi Minh Tan Son Nhat International Airport International Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Rose Lounge • Lotus Lounge 2 • Orchid Lounge • Le Saigonnais Lounge Domestis Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Le Saigonnais Lounge Da Lat Lien Khuong International Airport • Lien Khuong Airport Nha Trang Cam Ranh International Airport International Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Sun Coast Lounge Domestis Terminal • The Champ Lounge Ha Noi Noi Bai International Airport International Terminal • Song Hong Business Lounge Domestis Terminal • Song Hong Premium Lounge

WHERE TO BUY Ho Chi Minh • Phuong Nam Vincom Dong Khoi • Phuong Nam Saigon Centre • Phuong Nam An Phu Supermarket • Phuong Nam Estella Place • Phuong Nam Parkson Hung Vuong • Phuong Nam Vivo City • Phuong Nam Crescent Mall • Phuong Nam Vincom Le Van Viet • Phuong Nam Book City Garden Mall • Phuong Nam Book City Van Hanh Mall • Ca Chep Bookstore 211-213 Vo Van Tan, District 3 Ha Noi • Phuong Nam Garden Mall • Phuong Nam Lotte Center • Phuong Nam Mega Mall Royal City • Phuong Nam Vincom Ba Trieu • Phuong Nam Vincom Nguyen Chi Thanh Binh Duong • Phuong Nam Aeon Mall Binh Duong Dong Nai • Phuong Nam Vincom Bien Hoa • Phuong Nam 113-115 Dong Khoi Street, Tam Hiep Ward Da Lat • Phuong Nam Vincom Bao Loc • Phuong Nam Lien Khuong Airport • Phuong Nam 279 Phan Dinh Phung Street Nha Trang • Phuong Nam 17 Thai Nguyen Street, Phuoc Tan Ward Da Nang • Phuong Nam 153 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Phuoc Ninh Ward, Hai Chau District • Phuong Nam Vincom Da Nang • Phuong Nam Danang Airport Can Tho • Phuong Nam 06 Hoa Binh Street, An Cu Ward, Ninh Kieu District

Roasted Australian Beef Rump

Caravelle Saigon

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IF LUXURY IS YOUR LIFE, WE SPEAK YOUR LANGUAGE

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E P I C U R E L OV E S

The Pavilions Himalayas Lake View Granted, The Pavilions Himalayas Lake View is not in the most accessible location. To reach the eight-villa property, which faces Phewa Lake and Annapurna, one must take a paddle boat ride or a three-hour trek from its sister property, The Pavilions Himalayas (Jeep Safari transfers are available).

It’s well-worth the journey though. The property redefines the concept of glamping with three capacious tented villa categories (the Royal Lake Villas being the largest at 82 sq m). Each villa is equipped with modern accoutrements, such as fully retractable glass doors and al fresco rain showers, that are aimed at bringing guests closer to the beauty unique to the region. Dine at the in-house restaurant, which uses produce from its organic farm Nepalese cuisine or enjoy a barbecue by the lake. The spa combines traditional Ayurvedic remedies using foraged mountain botanicals to rejuvenate weary souls, perfect after a guided walk with a local naturalist. Room rates from US$200 (S$273). Ward No. 25, Chisapani, Pokhara 33700, Nepal.

Tel: +977 6169 4379

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