Epicure Vietnam Issue 10

ISSUE 10 AUTUMN 2023 epicurevietnam.com

THE ESSENCE OF SOUTH AFRICAN BRAAI

A new gastronomic barbeque experience has immerged in Vietnam

THE ART OF SMOCKING MEATS

Bring out the juicy slabs of pork ribs, T-bone, brisket and even cauliflower

A TRAILBLAZER IN VIETNAM'S CRAFT BEER LANDSCAPE Deliver exceptional beer experiences for all craft beer enthusiasts

PUBLISHER 'S NOTE

Vietnam's Culinary Renaissance Michelin Stars, Summertime Feasts, and Epicurean Delights

V

ietnam is ablaze with culinary brilliance this summer as it proudly awards four Michelin stars in its inaugural Michelin Guide for the country. As the result of a remarkable transformation, Vietnam is now fast becoming a global gastronomic destination.

From the “street food turned fine dining” at Anan Saigon, to the innovative menu at Gia Restaurant, Vietnam's culinary scene is now captivating food enthusiasts everywhere. Summer festivities too are in full swing, with Singapore's Marina Bay Sands hosting the "Where Your Senses Feast" event, and Hoiana's exciting Summer Fun Campaign in Danang.

Allow us to invite on a culinary adventure, indulging in a tapestry of flavours and experiences. Our cover story, "The Art of Smoking Meats," takes a deep dive into the timeless technique of imparting meats with an irresistible smoky allure, tenderness and flavour perfection. Join us as we explore the rich history and modern interpretations of this culinary art form, teasing your taste buds along the way.

As we delve into gourmet knowledge, join us in celebrating Annam Gourmet's remarkable twenty-year journey, while raising awareness for community and environmental responsibility. Discover the new art of Chinese tea, and gain insights into the expertise of Italian chefs, who continuously push culinary boundaries with unrivalled passion.

To commemorate more chefs, we invite you to indulge in the essence of South African Braai, and explore the artistry behind culinary cuts. Delve into the techniques and inspirations of culinary maestros as they unveil their secrets and ignite your passion for exceptional cuisine.

Wherever you find yourself this summer, Epicure Vietnam's tenth edition accompanies you on a journey through the prestigious Champagne region. Explore renowned Maisons, where you can learn, relax, sip, and celebrate the golden beauty of summer while embracing the joy of living life to the fullest.

Jade Huynh Publisher

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" fine caviars, om the largest caviar producer in the world."

NOW AVAILABLE IN VIETNAM AT:

Seafood Shop & Restaurant www.lapoissonnerie.vn

SEAFOOD & OYSTER BAR

www.dukes-oysterbar.vn

VOLUME 10 | AUTHORS

AUTUMN 2023

THANH NIEN PUBLISHING HOUSE HO CHI MINH CITY BRANCH DIRECTOR & EDITOR IN CHIEF EDITOR

Floor 11th, Bao Tien Phong Building, D29 Pham Van Bach, Yen Hoa, Cau Giay, Hanoi 145 Pasteur Street, Vo Thi Sau Ward, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Le Thanh Ha Ta Quang Huy

MANAGING DIRECTOR & PUBLISHER

Jade Huynh

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER ACCOUNT MANAGER

Christian Baker Philippe Dejean Tuong Vi, Anh Tram

SENIOR EDITOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS ASSISTANT EDITORS DESIGNER ADVERTISING EDITORIAL CIRCULATION

Tracie May-Wagner Rainer Sigel, Robert Stedman, Priyanka Elhence, Nida Seah, Destin Tay, Astrid Young, June Lee, Gary Bovagne Thao Nguyen, My Hien, Tuan Phong Quoc Vuong Marketing@oriental-media.com Editorial@oriental-media.com Circulation@oriental-media.com

EDITOR WINE EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR DIGITAL WRITER FEATURES WRITER

Nida Seah June Lee Eve Tedja Victoria Lim Sharmaine Loh

SENIOR DESIGNERS

Shee Leng, Dewi M. Singgih

IT & DIGITAL MEDIA DIRECTOR DIGITAL MEDIA PRODUCER CONTRIBUTOR

Jun Evangelista Tu Jie Rui Priyanka Elhenc

REGIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR SENIOR BUSINESS DIRECTOR

Dewi Prasodjo Daniel Poon

MARKETING EXECUTIVE SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER

Sheila Devi Shauna Mun

MANAGING DIRECTOR

Dennis Pua

epicure vietnam is licensed by Media Group Pte Ltd registered in Singapore and produced 4 times a year by Oriental Media Company Ltd 19/24 Doan Thi Diem Street, Ward 1, Phu Nhuan District, HCMC, Vietnam T: +84 28 3844 1612 | E: editorial@oriental-media.com Printed by ITAXA Company 126 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Distributed by Phuong Nam Bookstores 940 Ba Thang Hai Street, Ward 15, District 11, HCMC | Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi Street, Ben Nghe, District 1, HCMC Our media channels

epicurevietnam epicureasia

ON THE COVER Concept Esther Lew Art direction & styling Nikki Ho Photos Jasper Yu Recipes Alasdair McKenna and Eddie Goh of Meatsmith Shot at Meatsmith Telok Ayer

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epicurevietnam epicureasia

epicurevietnam.com epicureasia.com

Copyright by the Publisher. Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the Publisher is strictly prohibited. Views and opinions expressed in epicure are not neccessarily those of the Publisher and the Editors. Although every reasonable care has been taken to ensure the accuracy and objectivity of the information provided in this publication, neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All prices are in Singapore dollars unless otherwise stated and exclude miscellaneous taxes.

Publishing License No. 948-2023/CXBIPH/155-19/TN. Publishing Decision: 221/QĐ-TN Date of License Issued: July 17th, 2023. ISBN Code: 978-604-9965-39-5.

Size 230 x 280mm. Publishing Quantity: 25,000 copies. Registered in July 2023

CONTE NTS

COVER STORY 22

The Art Of Smocking Meats

EPICURE NEWS 32

Dim Sum And Then Some Flavours Paying Homage To Japan

33

Cantonese Fine Dining With Finesse The Light Guiding To Heaven

34 An Authentic Taste Of Italy Spanish Tapas Muy Delicioso Playing With Fire 35

Where Indochine Era Meets Luxury A Serene Haven By East Sea

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CONTE NTS

GLOBETROTTING EPICURE 36

42

Singular Sensation 44

GOURMET INSIDER 40 BASILICO A Slice of Italy in Saigon

46 47 48 49 50

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PASTEUR STREET A Trailblazer in Vietnam's Craft Beer Landscape BISTRO SONG VIE The Ideal Venue Partner for Events and Marketing Campaigns MAD COW Maddie And The Gang TOMAHAWK Quality Cuts And More FIAMMA Sunday Reverie In Singapore NAE:UM Korean Heritage Flavors MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS Where Design Meets Exquisite Dining

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EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE 54 Embrace Unforgettable Experiences 58 A Riverside Boutique Hotel Which Defines Luxury Living 60 Indulge In A Multi-Sensory Dining Experience At Marina Bay Sands 64 Belle Canto 68 Christina O Meets James Bond 72 Unveiling The Splendor 74 Discovering the Charms of Champagne

GOURMET KNOWLEDGE Better With Age A Legacy Of Exceptional Flavors Be A Grill Master Mastering the Art of Wine & Steak Pairing Annam Gourmet's 20-Year Journey Raising Awareness For Community And Environmental Responsibility 98 The New Art Of Chinese Tea 78 84 88 90 96

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The Ultimate Dinner in Candle Light Celebrate your honeymoon, special occasion or love in general with your special one. Indulge the finest cuisine in the most romantic restaurant setting in Ubud, Bali.

www.aperitif.com @AperitifBali +62 361 908 777 res@aperitif.com

CONTE NTS

CHEF MASTERCLASS 100 The Essence Of South African Braai 104 A Cut Above 108 Italian Chefs' Obsession

EPICUREAN PROFILE 112 Setting A New Standard In Postpartum Care 116 At Bar With The Pianist 120 Cheers To That

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CONTE NTS

WINE KNOWLEDGE

CELLAR CHOICE

124 Harvesting Investments With Fine Wines And Champagne 126 The Best Wine You’ve Never Tasted 130 Create Remarkable Pairings Between Lemon And Krug Champagnes 132 The House Of Liquid Gold

142 Take A Trip Down The California Coast 143 The Cape Winelands Stalwarts

VINE EXPECTATIONS 136 She’s A Sharpshooter 138 Burgundy Will Break Your Heart 140 One Of The Legends Of Châteauneuf-Du-Pape

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BAR AT HOME 144 Free Flow

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RAISING THE BARS

SEEN & SAVOURED

146 Cocktails Above The Clouds Moody New Orleans Speakeasy Vibes 147 Rooftop City Views And Vibes Music Meets Magical Mixology 148 A Garden Filled with Funtastic Bespoke and Bewitching Beverages 149 Alchemy Invokes Cocktail Mastery Reflecting Old World Sophistication 150 Uncover A Botanic Wonderland

152 Vietnam's Gastronomic Odyssey Four Michelin Stars Illuminate the Culinary Sky

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156 Where To Find

Urban Luxury Resort | Championship Golf | Lifestyle Destination

CONCEPT Esther Lew ART DIRECTION & STYLING Nikki Ho PHOTOS Jasper Yu VIDEO Tu Jie Rui TEXT Victoria Lim RECIPES Alasdair McKenna and Eddie Goh of Meatsmith SHOT AT Meatsmith Telok Ayer CHACHA COAL BY Ngee Seng Hing TABLEWARE FROM Tangs

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C OV E R S T O R Y

THE ART OF SMOCKING MEATS

Bring out the juicy slabs of pork ribs, T-bone, brisket and even cauliflower!

There’s nothing like hearty portions and a feast of flavours from around the world to kick-start your grilling adventures.

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s d n E t n r u B i m a P14adasystr you will of brining? Trust Meatsmith and flavourful -juicy and be rewarded with a tender, oh-so pastrami.

Serves 6-8 Prep time 14 days of brining Cook time 4.5 hours of smoking + 12 minutes of grilling

Brine

• 4 beef cheeks

(each 180-200g) • 750g water • 1/4 cup sea salt • ⅛ cup msg • ½ cup sugar • 12.5g smashed garlic • 12.5g coriander powder • 12.5g clove • 5 cinnamon sticks • 11g mustard seeds • 2.5g dried chilli flakes • 5g black pepper • 250g ice

Pickling spice

• 20g black peppercorn • 20g of mustard seeds • 20g coriander seeds • 12g red chilli flakes • 8g ground nutmeg • 2 cinnamon sticks • 12 bay leaves • 14g ground allspice • 6g clove • 8g ground ginger

1. Brine beef cheeks for up to 14 days.

2. Remove and drain the beef cheeks.

3. In a bowl, mix the pickling spice together.

4. Liberally spice beef cheeks on all sides with pickling spice rub.

5. Place inside the smoker at 110-

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120°C with the cavity filled with smoke, water pan in place.

6. Smoke for 3-4 hours until meat is tender, remove and wrap in parchment paper, place back in smoker for 30 minutes.

7. Remove from smoker and allow to rest in a cool, ventilated area until ready to serve.

8. Once cooled, cut into thick chunks that you are able to work and grill with.

9. Bring your barbecue to medium, high heat. Grill and caramelise each side of your pastrami burnt ends to your desired liking. Approximately 3 minutes per side. Serve with your choice of sauerkraut or favourite pickle.

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a s a p u h it m ts a e M m “You can su erican smokehouse traditional Am international barbecue withontemporary flavours in a c by locals (our boys) setting. Made for the locals.”a -Alasdair McKenn

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Serves 3-4 Cook time 10 minutes • 1 kg T-bone

1. Have your barbecue lit and ready to go with a moderate to high fire.

2. Cook to your desired temperature

making sure you caramelise the fat.

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f e e B Brisket

w and slowd perature fotrbelom m te c ti en th au t os aintaine m e th e us To achievthe smoker cavity temperature m cooking, -120°C. between 110 Serves 8-10 Prep time 15 minutes Cook time 10 hours • U.S. Choice Grade Whole Brisket (4-5kgs) • 120g of salt • 150g fresh ground black pepper

1. Light your barbecue and bring

to 110-120°C. Note: We recommend placing a water pan inside the barbecue to create moisture.

2. Trim excess fat off brisket, leaving a nice even layer of fat over the top.

Clean any excess sinew from the bottom. Put trimmed fat to the side.

3. Place cleaned and ready brisket on a tray and salt and pepper the brisket generously covering all sides.

4. Place the brisket inside the smoker on rake, close the cavity for 8 hours

5. After 8 hours, check the internal

temperature of the brisket with your thermapen. Temperature should be around 70°C and the meat should be tender, if not leave brisket in cavity for longer and until temperature has risen and/or the meat is tender.

6. Once the brisket is 70CC and/or the meat is tender/relaxed, wrap in parchment paper and place back in the smoker for 2 hours. Note: Heat must be maintained between 110120°C. 7. Remove brisket from cavity, set aside until you are ready to serve.

8. Slice the brisket and serve to your desired portion side. epicurevietnam 27

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d e k o m S Cauliflower

h s i l e R o t a m o T & re, the smoked He ? ts ea m r fo Who said smoking is s. It is an umami g patron r is hit amon cauliflowedi bomb of In an spices.

Serves 2 Prep time 1.5 hours Cook time 20 minutes Smoked tomato

• 6 ripe tomatoes • salt, to taste • pepper, to taste • 2 cloves of garlic, slightly crushed • 200ml grape seed oil

1. Cut ripe tomatoes in half, season with salt and pepper. Place on rack.

2. Bring barbecue smoker to110125°C. 3. Make sure the cavity is filled with smoke and smouldering smokey wood.

4. Place tomatoes on a rack in the cavity. Smoke for 20 minutes.

5. At the same time when smoking tomatoes, add garlic to grape seed oil and place the infused oil.

6. After 20 minutes, remove and allow both oil and tomato to cool slightly.

7. Place tomatoes in the oil to preserve. Refrigerate and use when ready.

Coriander crema

• 250g yoghurt • 250g coriander, blanched • 1 large green chilli, grilled • 2.5g ginger • 2.5g fresh garlic • 25g Ruchi Chilli Pickle • 75g mayonnaise • salt to taste

1. Blend 125g of yoghurt with the

blanched coriander, grilled green chilli, ginger and fresh garlic.

2. Blend remaining yoghurt with Ruchi Chilli Pickle.

3. Mix the mayonnaise into the Ruchi Chilli Pickle mixture, then mix it with the rest of the yoghurt mixture. Salt as desire and taste.

Tomato relish

• 2 halves of smoked tomato (see smoked tomato recipe) • 10g cashew nuts • 5g shallots • 1.5 cloves of confit garlic (see smoked tomato recipe) • 20 grams coriander crema (see coriander creama recipe) • 8g Ruchi pickled tomato • salt, to taste

1. Grill and dry the tomatoes then chop it down to a paste.

2. Shallow fry cashew nuts until

golden brown, strain and reserve to cool.

3. Mince the shallots and confit garlic.

Roughly chop the cashews and mix in with the rest of the ingredients.

Season with salt to taste. Keep in a cool place.

Garlic paprika butter

• 250g unsalted butter, room temperature • 20g smoked sweet paprika • 1 tbsp turmeric • 15g Ruchi Tomato Garlic Pickle • 1 head of confit garlic (see smoked tomato recipe) • ½ lemon

1. Mix unsalted butter with all ingredients except for lemon.

2. Squeeze in lemon juice and season

with salt.

Cauliflower

• 1 cauliflower head • garlic paprika butter.

1. Trim cauliflower – keeping the

stems and some of the good green outer leaves on the head.

2. Bring a large pan of salted water to boil, blanch cauliflower for 3-4 minutes.

3. Remove from boiling water, place in ice bath to cool, drain once cool.

4. Rub blanched cauliflower with soften paprika butter.

5. Be generous, cover the entire surface.

6. Once your smoker is at 110-125°C and there is a cavity full of desired smoke, place cauliflower inside for 15 minutes.

Assembly 1. Bring your barbecue up to temperature and ready to go.

2. Grill cauliflower until desired colour, remove from heat.

3. Spread relish on bottom of plate,

adjust seasoning to your liking, place cauliflower on top of the relish and serve. epicurevietnam 29

e the sweet e and embrkiac uc sa ue ec rb ba l ua us e us later. th ng h Ditc u’ll be than char siew glaze. Trust us, yo

Serves 4 Prep time 45 minutes + overnight marination Cook time 10 minutes + 3 hours of smoking Char siew glaze

• 30g garlic, chopped • 100g fermented red beancurd • 500g sugar • 300g soy sauce • 440g oyster sauce • 100g glucose • 500g honey • 100g hua diao wine • 12g 5 spice powder • 70g black caramel • 20g msg • 5g salt • 3g white pepper

1. Using a Vitamix, Blend garlic and beancurd until its in a puree form.

2. In a large pot, add all ingredients

in and bring them to a boil - while stirring constantly to ensure sugar is well mixed.

3. Once boiling, drop heat to medium low to maintain a gentle simmer.

4. Stir every 10 minutes. The final consistency should be thick enough to cling onto back of spoon.

Char siew

• 500g sugar • 140g light soya sauce • 440g oyster sauce • 360g maltose • 500g of honey • 100g of hua diao wine • 100g of chopped garlic • 200g of fermented red beancurd • 20g of 5 spice powder • 40g of salt • 20g of msg • 2 pork ribs (Meatsmith recommends

Indiana Kitchen Pork Ribs from U.S.) 30 epicurevietnam

1. Mix all ingredients except pork ribs together in a pot, and bring to boil.

2. Cool marinade in chiller.

3. In the meantime, use a meat spike

to poke randomly on the meat side of pork ribs.

4. Once marinade is cooled, ensure pork ribs are well soaked in the marinade.

5. Marinate overnight.

6. Remove the ribs from the marinade.

7. Smoke ribs in your smoker at 120°C for 3 hours until ribs soften.

8. Cut ribs to desired portion size.

9. Glaze with smoked ribs with Char Siew glaze.

10. Place on open flame barbecue and caramelized both sides (roughly 2 mins per side).

11. Re-glaze the top side.

12. Remove from barbecue and serve. immediately.

t u n o c o C Pork Ribs

Perfumed with lemongrass and coconut, and flecked with curry leaves, what’s not to love about this rib?

Serves 4 Prep time 40 minutes Cook time 10 minutes + 3 hours of smoking

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w e i S r a h C Pork Ribs

COCONUT PORK RIBS

CHAR SIEW PORK RIBS

Dry coconut chutney

• 250g grated coconut • 125g shallots • 1 clove of garlic • 50g lemongrass • 25g ginger • 1 small handful of curry leaves,

chopped • 2 dried chillies, chopped • 15g cumin powder • 35g dark brown sugar • salt to taste

1. Roast grated coconut at 148°C for 25 minutes.

2. Blitz coconut with shallot, garlic, lemongrass and ginger.

3. Fry the coconut mixture on a slow flame with oil until golden brown.

4. Deep fry curry leaves and dried chillies.

5. In a bowl, mix all ingredients together, check seasoning and salt

Coconut pork ribs

• 2 pork ribs (Meatsmith recommends Indiana Kitchen Pork Ribs from U.S.) • 100ml coconut cream

1. Smoke ribs in your smoker at 120°C for 3 hours or until ribs are soften.

2. Cut ribs to desired portion size.

3. Place on open flame barbecue and

carmelise both sides (roughly 2 mins per side).

4. Liberally coat your ribs with coconut cream, add dry coconut chutney on top.

5. Graninated under griller of oven until golden brown.

epicurevietnam 31

EPICURE NEWS

DIM SUM AND THEN SOME Offering the signature flavours of Cantonese cuisine to Ho Chi Minh City’s District 1, Dragon Palace is a mecca for the beloved Chinese food staple that is Dim Sum. Dim Sum features an array of small, bite-sized dishes that are typically served in bamboo steamer baskets.

From savoury dumplings to sweet buns, it is a popular brunch or lunch option that is enjoyed by foodies all around the world, and Dragon Palace’s vast menu of quintessential dim sum plates are an absolute delight to savour. Some not to be missed classics include their juicy and steaming hot Xiao Long Bao, Baked Honey Barbeque Pork Buns, Premium Sharks’ Fin Cake and Steamed Chicken Feet with Black Bean Sauce. Soooo so tasty! But, Dragon Palace offers far more Cantonese deliciousness than just Dim Sum. For a larger group, indulge in a Whole Roasted Suckling Pig, or a Peking Duck, served with all the traditional trimmings. Their Premium Abalone plate is really special as is their flaming spicy hot Stir-Fried Crab in Singapore Spicy Sauce 2bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Da Kao Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Tel: +84 94 824 99 88

FLAVOURS PAYING HOMAGE TO JAPAN

If you’re looking for a unique dining experience, combining flavorful Japanese cuisine with the satisfaction of grilling your own food, then Genshi Yaki in Thao Dien, District 2 will fit the bill. With its emphasis on fresh ingredients, bold flavours, and an extensive menu of delicious traditional Japanese fare, Genshi Yaki is a must-try for any Japanese food lover. Give the Miso Garlic Butter Tsubugai snails a try, served out of the shells, and ready to savour. The Seared Kampachi with Tare Sauce is delicious, as are their cuts of Premium Japanese Wagyu Beef, full of fatty marbled goodness, grilled to preferred temperature and served with choice of dipping sauce. I’d also recommend their giant skewers of grilled head on prawns, or ordering a Mixed Seafood or Mixed Family Grill Combo box, chalk full of premier cuts. And don’t forget to wash it all down with some premium Sake, Sochu or Umeshu, because if you are craving an authentic taste of Japan, Genshi Yaki is a great choice to satisfy your hunger 59 Xuan Thuy Street, Thao Dien Ward, Thu Duc City, Ho Chi Minh City

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Tel: 1900 066 890

CANTONESE FINE DINING WITH FINESSE 2023 Michelin Guide selected Chinese fine dining restaurant Long Triều, located at the iconic Reverie Saigon Hotel in District 1, showcases the rich and complex tastes and textures of traditional Cantonese cuisine, executed with modern flair and complexity.

When asked which elements and flavours are essential to produce his food, Executive Chef Lau Yam Chuen said “There are a few staple mixed seasonings I use like Oyster Sauce, Soya Sauce and Huadiao Rice Wine, I pay close attention to the freshness and quality of the ingredients I work with, and the smell of my wok guides me.” For Dim Sum, try the Steamed Red Rice Rolls wrapped with Crispy Bean Curd and Shrimp, the fatty and tender HoneyGlazed Barbecued Pork and the Xiaolongbao, which without question is THE best I have tasted living in Vietnam. The DeepFried Prawn with Creamy Mango Sauce sounds a bit perplexing, but is absolutely delicious! As is the Hokkien Fried Rice with bits of shrimp, chicken and veggies and bathed in a flavourful brown gravy Level 4, 22-36 Nguyen Hue Boulevard & 57-69F Dong Khoi Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Tel: +84 28 3823 66 88

THE LIGHT GUIDING TO HEAVEN Only once, maybe twice in a lifetime, are you so profoundly moved by a gastronomic experience that it brings you to tears, and the purely sublime culinary “Sto:ry Menu # 0 Journey” at Ho Chi Minh City’s Nén Light Restaurant will invoke those purest of visceral emotions. Brainchild of Executive Chef and Owner Summer Le, her husband Leon, whose official title is “Experience Designer”, the dishes within their tasting menus, tells a beautiful tale, as if narrated within an immersive play, with food the company of actors, and the restaurant’s atmosphere, the theatre. The Chef team cultivates “Conscious Vietnamese Cuisine” (Ẩm Thực Nhìn), realised through discovery foraging trips through Central Coastal Vietnam, in hunt of rare and eccentric ingredients to play with like the prehistoric Giant Isopod found in Quang Ngai.

They incorporate “hyper-local” Vietnamese flavours, and the symbolism of Nén, being an indigenous and symbolic ingredient in Central Vietnam, to represent their profound respect for their heritage. Supported by an exquisite wine and sake pairing, as well as a "Conversation Pairing", they have crafted a multi-sensory dining experience, where every aspect is meticulously shaped to engage the senses, elevating fine dining in Vietnam straight up to Heaven 122/2 Tran Dinh Xu Street, Nguyen Cu Trinh Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City

Tel: +84 89 899 08 06

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AN AUTHENTIC TASTE OF ITALY Situated in the centre of Ho Chi Minh City’s District 3, Oliu Quán offers a genuine taste of Italy which will transport your taste buds to the rolling hills of Tuscany. With a menu crafted from the freshest local and seasonal ingredients, colourful cocktails offerings and a welcoming indoor and outdoor dining dècor, the restaurant is an ode to Italiana which will leave you feeling satiated and well satisfied. Don’t miss the rustic and delicious Salmon Bruschetta, smoked salmon atop brown bread, sour cream, avocado, caperberries, sprigs of dill and a lemon wedge for squeezing. The Lemon & Butter Glazed Cod with braised bacon, artichoke & cannellini beans, topped with a lobster cardinal sauce is outstanding, as is their Homemade Ricotta & Spinach Ravioli with figs, cherry tomatoes, tossed in a decadent blue cheese cream sauce and topped with grated parmesan and a sprinkle of sage. For a tasty libation, try the “Charmingly Freakish at Sicily” or “The Blue of Tuscany”, both juicy, fruity and refreshing 540/17 Cach Mang Thang 8 Street, Ward 11, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City

Tel: +84 86 543 04 31

SPANISH TAPAS MUY DELICIOSO If you’re craving a truly authentic taste of Spain in Saigon, look no further than the charming, six month old Spanish tapas restaurant Sabor Bar & Restaurant, as it transports diners to the colourful and artistic landscape of Barcelona. With the hypnotising sounds of Buddha Bar electronica over the speaker system, and a warm and homey atmosphere uniquely characteristic of classic Spanish eateries, the restaurant’s décor is rustic and inviting, with vibrant collages of broken mosaic tiles adorning the walls as artwork.

Their menu highlights the best of regional Spanish cuisine, with a wide range of tapas to choose from, perfect for sharing. From classics like Croquetas de Jamón, to more adventurous like Stuffed Squid and Venetian Sardines on Toast, there’s something to satisfy every taste and culinary preference. To complement the meal, consider indulging in a craft cocktail as their beverage offerings are really unique. The Rhubarb-Calamansi and/or JackfruitKaffir Lime Gina & Tonics are a must try, as is a refreshing glass of their classically prepared, yet not too sweet, Red Wine Sangria 114 Yersin Street, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: +84 77 973 01 12

PLAYING WITH FIRE

Situated at the Camellia Hotel in Hanoi, 2023 Michelin Selected Chapter Dining and Grill is redefining fine dining with a rustic approach to their food. Currently serving a tasting menu inspired by a wild produce foraging trip in the forest, and their meal preparation facilitated over a crackling campfire, the agrestic methodology, and the story they tell in the menu’s culinary flight, invokes a sense of childhood familiarity through scents and flavours only produced by charcoal, wood and fire. Staying strongly committed to the theme, food preparation for the summer menu curation obliged the chefs to find innovative ways to properly execute certain elements they wished to serve. Brioche. Duck pate. Fermented Chilli, without the availability of an oven, is improvised by layering cast iron pans, with hot charcoals arranged beneath and on top, to emulate the correct temperature and heat necessary to bake. Through ingenuity and resourcefulness, they are able to achieve their ambitious and inventive dishes, while dazzling their dining guests with an imaginative and singular culinary journey 12C Chan Cam Street, Hang Trong Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi

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Tel: +84 33 320 12 21

WHERE INDOCHINE ERA MEETS LUXURY The Anam Mui Ne, a new resort in Vietnam with design inspiration from the Indochine era, has become a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World (SLH), the most exclusive collection of independent luxury properties worldwide. To be accepted into the community of intimately characterful and luxurious spaces, hotels must undergo a rigorous vetting process and meet high standards of guest wellbeing and luxury. With 127 elegant rooms and suites, two restaurants and a bar, two swimming pools, a spa, a ballroom, conference rooms, and more, The Anam Mui Ne is redefining upscale experience benchmarks at Mui Ne. The resort pays homage to both colonialera and classic Vietnamese aesthetics, including encaustic mosaic tiles, Cham decorative vases and statues, teak furniture, and authentic thatched roofs. The eco-friendly resort implements measures to reduce its carbon footprint, including solar power and locally sourced ingredients, making it a sustainable destination for travelers 18 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: +84 252 628 48 68

A SERENE HAVEN BY EAST SEA

Azerai Ke Ga Bay, the new beachfront resort by Adrian Zecha in southeastern Vietnam, sits on one of the country’s most desirable perches overlooking the East Sea. The resort located 2.5 hours drive east of Ho Chi Minh City on a five-kilometer white sand beach has opened following the total refurbishment of Princess D’Annam Resort & Spa. The materials used in the new resort were all locally sourced in Vietnam and feature a notable increase in natural stone and timber, which makes for all sorts of visual warmth. The layout includes four public pools in different areas. Rooms— whether deluxe suites (65m2), pool suites (130m2) and signature Ke Gay Bay Pavilions (185m2) —are spacious compared to other resorts in the area. All guest suites feature sliding glass doors that allow sea breezes or views of the lush gardens, while encouraging natural ventilation Hon Lan, Tan Thanh Commune, Ham Thuan Nam District, Binh Thuan Province

Tel: +84 252 368 22 22

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GLOBETROTTING EPICURE

SINGULAR SENSATION

Our top tables for June shine the spotlight on Japanese ingredients, concepts, and techniques – from a restaurant hidden away in Sentosa to a new fine dining establishment that’s waiting to be discovered.

BY ANTON D. JAVIER

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HASHIDA SINGAPORE

A beautiful Spring fling awaits you at Hashida Singapore, where Chef Kenjiro Hashida presents the season’s best offerings sourced straight from Japan. These are then executed as fresh creations in an omakase menu that highlights Chef Hashida’s penchant for visual expression and the fine arts.

The seasonal meal starts with an artfully plated eight-item starter dish, comprised of ama ebi with caviar and tempura crumbs, yuba with dashi sauce, snow crab and pickled radish roll, unagi zushi rice mixed with sansho pepper and sudachi lime, as well as seasonal specialties like firefly squid, nano hana ( Japanese kalian), udo (mountain asparagus), and fuki (butterbur stalks). Following this is a smooth, umami-rich chawanmushi topped with either clam or uni and finished with lily root flower and mitsuba dashi, and Sakura Mochi filled with baked sea bream and shrimps served with shoyu dashi and pickled ume.

A flurry of sushi follows, showcasing Chef Hashida and team’s handiwork, which is comprised of the season’s best catch and creations unique to the restaurant.

Visit Hashida Singapore at 77 Amoy Street, Tel: 8129 5336

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MIYOSHI BY FAT COW

It’s a choose-your-own-dining-adventure concept at MIYOSHI

by Fat Cow, which recently opened at the Mess Hall in Sentosa.

At this destination dining establishment, slurp on ramen that feature luxurious broths, enjoy a live teppanyaki dinner, or opt for a multi-course omakase feast that uses fresh, seasonal produce.

To fully immerse in the MIYOSHI experience – where the menu is curated by Head Chef Shingo Iijima and Sous Chef Nigel Loh – go for the 11-course Teppan-Kaiseki dinner ($280++). Make yourself comfortable at the counter-side seats and marvel at the parade of expertly executed dishes, starting with an assortment of snacks like Fresh Spring Rolls and Wagyu Tartare, as well as small bites like Teppan-grilled Straw Smoked Hokkaido Scallops and Sea Urchin with Soba, Oba Leaf, and Nikumiso.

The indulgent mains that follow include live abalone steamed with kelp and finished with saikyo miso, Wagyu tenderloin with accompaniments like yuzu kosho, kizami wasabi, garlic chips, and seasonal vegetables, and a simple, but oh-so-flavorful garlic fried rice with miso soup and Japanese pickles on the side.

Visit MIYOSHI by Fat Cow at 2 Gunner Lane, #01-04/05/06, Mess Hall at Sentosa, Tel: 6019 0089

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CUISSON

For a fine dining experience that brings together the freshest Japanese produce with French cooking techniques, make a beeline for Cuisson, which is helmed by Chef Tan Wee Kiat.

Having worked under names like Daniel Boulud, Ivan Brehm, and Jonathan Koh, Chef Tan is now ready to strike out on his own and impress diners with his skillful handling of seafood.

As one experiences the multi-course tasting menus at Cuisson, you’ll notice Chef Tan’s respect for produce and artful compositions, starting with the White Asparagus Custard paired with a sweet and salty aged shoyu and Marukyo uni. The Ankimo Liver, with its inherent richness, is lightly cured and paired with pickled beets and kinkan confit for a hit of acidity and surrounded by crisp rice crackers for texture and a sculptural finish. The Hotaru Donabe, which currently features firefly squid, kombu, and Japanese chives is a moreish dish worth saving space for.

However, the ultimate showstopper at Cuisson is the Textures of Prawn, comprised of freshly made pasta infused with ground prawn shells, Sakura ebi, prawn roe, and a Carabinero prawn croquette coated with senbei rice crackers that lends it a toasted flavor and distinct crunch.

Visit Cuisson at 21 Tanjong Pagar Road, Tel: 8849 6799

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GOURMET INSIDER

BASILICO

A Slice of Italy in Saigon Thanks to Italy’s prestige in gastronomy, there are a plethora of restaurants in Saigon serving up its delicious regional cuisine nowadays. Whilst many eateries have come and gone, Basilico restaurant, at the InterContinental Saigon, has proudly stood as a premiere destination for Italian cuisine lovers in Ho Chi Minh City for more than a decade.

THE “TRATTORIA”

Launched in late 2011, Basilico first introduced Saigon foodies to the Italian concept of “Trattoria”. While some locals were already familiar with the term “Fine Dining”, as presented at various restaurants citywide, the principle of “Trattoria” was newly introduced to their diners as a fresh and homey approach to Italian food service. Characteristics like presenting comforting and homemade recipes, coupled with an array of colourful wine selections, plus offering a relaxed and unpretentious dining atmosphere, has since made “Trattoria” only second to “Pizzeria” (pizza house) in terms of its popularity in Saigon. Reflected through their congenial and approachable eatery, Basilico presents the very best Italian cuisine to their returning regulars and 1st time visitors, enjoyed throughout the day.

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PREPARED WITH VIETNAMESE SPIRIT

The most surprising fact about Basilico is that its Head Chef, Chef Binh, is a born Vietnamese, and not Italian as would be expected to lead the kitchen at such a renowned Italian eatery. He began his culinary career in 2002, and since 2006 has made mastering the art of Italian cuisine his life’s work and career passion. For the past 17 years, Chef Binh has successfully executed flavours which brilliantly reflect the zest of Italian classics, while simultaneously satisfying the discerning palates of his local Vietnamese customers through his wonderful food. It is common to find the term “authentic” when you look for good Italian restaurants online. But, as Chef Binh once stated “authenticity, like any luxury, loses its value once it is everywhere,” Basilico chose to honour Italian cuisine by “understanding its philosophy and making delectable treats out of it”.

Chef Binh, Head Chef at Basilico

CREATING MEMORABLE DINING EXPERIENCES

Between the broad selections available on the main menu, seasonal specials, and dishes developed specifically to pair with wine, Chef Binh has always tried to create eclectic menus for Basilico, reflecting the various wants and needs of their guests.

Keeping up with tradition, this July, Basilico introduced a new sharing menu, offering guests a generous plate in combination with another essential element of Italian cuisine, being wine.

Named Gusto Divino (meaning “divine taste”), this new sharing menu for 2 is recommended for any intimate occasion like a romantic date night, an anniversary celebration, or simply a casual dinner with a friend.

Other dining options include their new à-la-carte menu, launched earlier this year, and their unique concept of “Night Brunch”, served every second Friday night. From antipasti (starters) to pizza, pasta, risotto, main courses, and dolci (desserts), guests will find a wide range of iconic Italian classics available for lunch or dinner on their à-la-carte menu. And be sure to bring a healthy appetite to Basilico’s “Night Brunch”, as it offers a virtual cornucopia of delectable delights which will surely satisfy your cravings for incredible Italian food.

BASILICO RESTAURANT InterContinental Saigon, Corner Hai Ba Trung St. & Le Duan Blvd, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: 028 3520 9999 | E: dine@icsaigon.com

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GOURMET INSIDER

PASTEUR STREET

A Trailblazer in Vietnam's Craft Beer Landscape Pasteur Street Brewing Company, a trailblazer in the Vietnamese craft beer scene, has announced the opening of its newest taproom in Ho Chi Minh City. Situated near the iconic Ben Thanh Market, the Ly Tu Trong Taproom is the latest addition to the brand's expanding presence, furthering its mission to deliver exceptional beer experiences for all current and future craft beer enthusiasts in Vietnam.

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ince its inception in 2014, Pasteur Street Brewing Company has been a driving force in the craft beer revolution in Vietnam. By creatively blending Vietnamese ingredients with international craft beer styles and making them accessible through their taprooms and over 400 other outlets, the brand has consistently delighted beer enthusiasts with its diverse range of craft beers. The Ly Tu Trong Taproom joins a successful line-up of Pasteur Street Brewing Company taprooms, including the original in Ho Chi

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Minh City (2015), Hoan Kiem Taproom in Hanoi old town (2017), Thao Dien Taproom (2018), Le Thanh Ton Taproom (2019), Xuong Bia Taproom (2020), and Hoang Sa Taproom (2022).

Located at the vibrant corner of Ly Tu Trong and Thu Khoa Huan in District 1, the Ly Tu Trong Taproom offers a prime destination for craft beer enthusiasts and those seeking a remarkable social experience. The ground floor space boasts a stunning street view, perfect for people-watching and immersing oneself in the energetic city atmosphere.

With an impressive line-up of 16 taps, visitors can indulge in signature craft beers, such as Jasmine IPA and Cyclo Stout, accompanied by carefully crafted food pairings that capture the essence of Vietnamese flavors and traditions. The food menu showcases the best of Vietnamese and international cuisine, ensuring there is something for everyone. Patrons are also treated to a unique view of the brewing process right behind the bar, providing them with a deeper understanding of the craft beer-making process. Another standout feature of the taproom is the picture display that showcases the origins of some of the key Vietnamese ingredients used in their beer.

"We are thrilled to open our newest taproom in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City," said Mr Tom Duncan, Interim CEO/Director of Pasteur Street Brewing Company. "The Ly Tu Trong Taproom is a testament to our commitment to delivering exceptional beer experiences to our customers, and we can't wait to share our passion for craft beer with even more people in Vietnam."

PASTEUR STREET BREWING CO LY TU TRONG TAPROOM 110-112 Ly Tu Trong Street, Ben Thanh Ward, District 1, HCMC T +84 909 899 812 | E: Cheers @PasteurStreet.com W: www.PasteurStreet.com

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GOURMET INSIDER

BISTRO SONG VIE The Ideal Venue Partner for Events and Marketing Campaigns

When planning an event or marketing campaign, choosing the perfect venue to fully actualize the overall brand vision is crucial. The locale sets the stage for the entire experience, and can greatly impact its success. For those seeking a prime and utterly picturesque location, Bistro Song Vie proves an excellent choice. Combining natural beauty with luxury service, Bistro Song Vie offers a wide range of benefits which can elevate any event or marketing drive.

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or the achievement of charming, and highly visual marketing collateral, their lush gardens set on the riverbank offers beautifully scenic pictorial opportunities. The quaint backdrop provides the perfect stage for capturing enchanting visuals for promotional materials, social media campaigns and more, while the natural beauty of the surroundings can enhance the brand’s image, and evoke favorable feeling among consumers, making it an effective marketing tool for any company.

From simple birthday celebrations to gala dinners, a corporate roundtable conference or a product launch, the pleasing riverside venue provides a setting which immediately grabs the attendee’s attention, and produces a serene environment not easily found elsewhere in Ho Chi Minh City.

In addition, it provides a welcome break from the hustle and bustle of the inner city. Conference attendees may unwind and relax amidst nature, fostering an atmosphere conducive to networking and socializing. It also emits an ambience which can inspire creativity and fresh perspective, making it an ideal place for brainstorming sessions or team-building activities.

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When it comes to choosing a venue for an event or a stunning marketing campaign, Bistro Song Vie will prove to be an ideal partner. Their combination of natural beauty, versatile outdoor and indoor spaces and luxury service makes it the ideal choice for any gathering for attendees and marketers alike.

VILLA SONG SAIGON 197/2, Nguyen Van Huong Street, Thao Dien Ward, Thu Duc City, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: +84 28 3744 6090 | E: info@songvie.com M: +84 7 7244 6090 | W: www.songvie.com

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The content of this promotion campaign represents the views of the author only and is his/her sole responsibility. The European Commission and the European Research Executive Agency (REA) do not accept any responsibility for any use that may be made of the information it contains

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GOURMET INSIDER

MAD COW

Maddie And The Gang Nothing is better than savouring a serving of New York-style grill while basking in the city light view of Bandung from above. That is what Mad Cow Wine & Grill offers for those who desire to enjoy Paris van Java in a new light.

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andung has long been a popular destination for travellers because of its cooler temperature and proximity to Jakarta. Its array of food offerings has made it one of the most favourite destinations for foodies and it now includes Mad Cow Wine & Grill.

Located on the 17th floor of Pullman Bandung Grand Central, the steakhouse and bar boast a modish yet vintage feel through the furnishings. Deriving the inspiration from the 1920s era, Moulin Rouge, and Bandung Train Station, dining at Mad Cow Wine & Grill is like stepping back in time.

Adopting the open-kitchen concept helps the steakhouse to theatrically display how the meats are processed in the Josper oven, warranting a premium quality and smoky flavour, right from the kitchen to the table.

The ‘paddock-to-plate’ principle that the bistro follows allows the diners to taste a fresh and prime cut of meat in its excellent shape. Be it char-grilled, satay-styled, slow-cooked, or cooked in an open flame, the steak stays juicy, tender and rich.

The steakhouse also champions grain-fed beef, which enhances the meat’s flavour and texture.

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If you ask for the star of the menu, it would be the chef’s specials which include Maddie’s Surf & Turf with tenderloin, wagyu, bamboo lobster, and Maddie’s Beef Burger. The chef also incorporates local spices into its menu, boasting Betutu, Rendang, and Semur-style grilled meats.

Pair the dishes with wine, and you are invited to select from more than fifty labels of wine in the cellar. From red to white wine, whisk the night away with delicious sips. Additionally, a crafted tapas menu is available to ignite your taste buds before dinner, along with the aperitif of your choice.

Up the ante for a more intimate dining experience as the modishly designed restaurant is also prepared to house private dinners with your loved ones at its two Maddie’s Paddocks. Up to twenty persons will enjoy an uninterrupted moment in style while savouring the restaurant’s specials. Diners are encouraged to book in advance.

Visit Mad Cow Wine & Grill at Level 17, Pullman Tower Jl. Diponegoro no 27 Bandung, Indonesia

TOMAHAWK Quality Cuts And More

More than just offering fantastic wagyu steaks, Tomahawk Contemporary Steakhouse promises a unique and unforgettable dining experience.

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n Singapore, Tomahawk Contemporary Steakhouse is one of the best places to enjoy quality cuts and more.

Centrally located with branches at Raffles Place and Novena, Tomahawk prides itself with a wide selection of premium Australian wagyu beef.

At Tomahawk, wagyu steak, which is renowned the world over and highly sought-after for its tender, buttery texture, is the star of the show. Here, the steaks undergo meticulous preparation paired with intricate cooking techniques to bring out the best each cut has to offer.

What’s more, Tomahawk serves wet-cured steaks, where meat is brined in a marinade with salt and other aromatic ingredients. Through this process, what you get are juicy steaks with a greater, more pronounced flavor and better texture.

In addition to simply serving the steaks, Tomahawk takes it to the next level. Here, expect tableside carving and torching to enhance the experience, which adds excitement to the meal. Carving the steaks tableside helps preserve juices within the steak, while locking in flavour to the very last moment for optimum satisfaction. Meanwhile, torching the steaks tableside chars, toasts, and caramelizes the fats, which adds complexity and texture.

Tomahawk also prides itself with an extensive menu that goes beyond steaks (including pork chops, lamb shank, seafood dishes, and an assortment of sides), ensuring there is something for everyone. While essentially a Western restaurant, Tomahawk serves dishes that feature Asian ingredients, which include Lamb Empanada with Green Curry, Squid Ink Lobster Risotto with Japanese Scallops, Salmon Carbonara with Ikura, and Tiger Prawns with kombu, to name a few.

Finally, Tomahawk’s Novena branch extends a warm welcome to dog owners and their fur kids, making it the only dog-friendly steakhouse in Singapore.

Visit Tomahawk Contemporary Steakhouse at 6 Battery Road, #01-03, 049909 (Raffles branch) and at 273, #01-06 Thomson Road, Novena Gardens, 307644 (Novena branch).

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FIAMMA

Sunday Reverie In Singapore Beat the summer heat and head to Capella Singapore to indulge in cold champagne and delicious Italian fare at the recently-launched Sunday Champagne Brunch at Fiamma.

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iamma, which is presented by Michelin starred Chef Mauro Colagreco, is an authentic nod to the heritage and spirit of Italian family cooking and cuisine. At Fiamma, diners can experience la dolce vita, which is made even more memorable with familial Italian fare, hearty flavors, and a bountiful menu that draws on years of Chef Colagreco’s culinary experience, travels, and childhood memories.

On Sundays, from 12 to 3pm, Fiamma transforms into an Italian escape with its Sunday Champagne Brunch, alongside breezy weather, soothing green views, the seaside in the distance, and the occasional calls of Sentosa’s resident peacocks.

Accompanying the tipples is a brunch menu comprised of Fiamma’s signature bites and dishes, perfectly curated to satisfy cravings. The menu starts off with a series of small bites comprised of Cacio e Pepe arancini, Tramezzini with crab and caviar, a selection of cured meats like mortadella, prosciutto, and salami, oysters, as well as Fiamma’s signature Crudo where seabass, tuna, and amberjack sit atop a sweet and tangy ginger honey sauce and lemon vinaigrette.

These are followed by antipasti, which includes the must-try Polpette meatballs in a basil-ginger tomato sauce and half-charred lobster. Pasta and pizza is a must here, so look forward to options like Ziti Alla Genovese with veal ragout and pizza options that include Margherita, Diavola, and Tartufo.

Highlights straight from Fiamma’s grill include the Beef Tomahawk and Roasted Lamb Leg, in addition to pork ribs, chicken, and grilled vegetables. Sweeten the entire brunch experience with a delicious finish that include unlimited servings of sweet treats like ice cream, sorbets, and signature desserts, as well as a selection of Italy’s finest cheeses.

Visit Fiamma at 1 The Knolls, Singapore 098297 Tel: +65 6591 5046

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NAE:UM

Korean Heritage Flavors Korean barbecue has become synonymous with special occasions and weekend revelry. The meal’s convivial, DIY nature, paired with myriad ingredients waiting to be cooked, assembled, and enjoyed no doubt makes it an irresistible affair for most.

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or Chef Louis Han of one Michelin-starred NAE:UM, it’s a meal that conjures up memories of home; of summer barbecue gatherings in the front yard together with close family and friends. It’s a humble affair, yet one that’s worth celebrating in the restaurant’s latest menu – Episode 5: Front Yard Barbecue.

The menu, available in both Classic (six courses) and Signature (eight courses), features three cold dishes and three hot dishes, served in various placements to help counter the richness and strong flavors of barbecue food. The meal starts with three snacks, comprised of smoked green peas, marinated Striped Jack tartare, and ‘milssam’ or house-made Korean crepe with Bulgogi wagyu beef. Meanwhile, standout dishes include the beef barbecue featuring MS7 Wagyu Tenderloin, simply grilled with a galbi sauce and accompanied by pickled sweet potato leaf, grilled king oyster mushroom, shishito peppers, and a tart daikon salad. The ‘doeji-galbi bap’ or pork rib rice is a crowd pleaser where fork-tender meat is topped on a mix of barley, short grain white rice, and brown rice. It is then finished with colorful toppings comprised of edible flowers, carrot ribbons, pickled onions, and a final grating of aromatic black truffle. Accompanying it, as with any Korean dish, is a selection of pickles and house-made kimchi.

The Melon Lime Punch marks the end of the meal, which is made up of a sorbet with the cool and refreshing flavors of melon, lime, and mint. It is set atop an icy granita of soju and lemon juice and a dollop of vanilla yoghurt mousse. Finally, it is crowned with a crisp melon tuille and garnished with thinly sliced rock melons, honeydew balls, and aloe vera and roasted cashew nuts for added texture and crunch.

Visit NAE:UM at 161 Telok Ayer Street, Tel: 8830 5016

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GOURMET INSIDER

MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS Where Design Meets Exquisite Dining Discover the World's most enchanting Michelin-Starred Restaurants, where culinary mastery meets awe-inspiring interior design. Embark on a captivating journey as we unveil five extraordinary dining destinations where gastronomy and aesthetics intertwine in perfect harmony.

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ELEVEN MADISON PARK NEW YORK CITY, USA

Nestled in the vibrant heart of New York City, the legendary Eleven Madison Park stands as a temple of modern elegance. Led by Chef Daniel Humm, this three-Michelin-starred establishment astounds guests with its masterful precision and attention to detail. From the custom-made staff uniforms to the handblown water vases, no element is overlooked.

The interior design, reimagined in 2017 by architect Brad Cloepfil of Allied Works, seamlessly blends Art Deco influences with contemporary sophistication.

Opulent chandeliers illuminate the space, while plush furnishings envelop guests in an ambiance of refined luxury. Noteworthy artworks by esteemed artists such as Sol Lewitt, Daniel Turner, Olympia Scarry, and Rita Ackermann adorn the walls, further enhancing the dining experience.

IKOYI - LONDON, UK

London's Ikoyi, a two-Michelin-starred gem, celebrates the fusion of cultures and experiences. Chef Jeremy Chan and co-founder Iré Hassan-Odukale curate a culinary masterpiece that marries the finest organic produce from the British Isles with the vibrant spices of West Africa. Recently relocating to elegant new premises on the Strand, Ikoyi unveiled its visually stunning interiors designed by Danish architect David Thulstrup, renowned for his work on Noma's current location in Copenhagen. The space exudes a minimalist aesthetic enriched with lavish textures. Drawing inspiration from Ridley Scott's film sets, cathedral architecture, and Richard Serra's sculptures, Ikoyi manifests the founders' vision of global modernism. Each element within this captivating environment reflects a harmonious blend of cultures, inviting guests to embark on a sensory and culinary adventure. epicurevietnam 51

THE JANE - ANTWERP, BELGIUM

Immerse yourself in the unique charm of The Jane, an extraordinary two-Michelin-starred restaurant situated in Antwerp, Belgium. Helmed by Chef Nick Bril, this culinary haven takes diners on an adventurous journey through Latin American and Asian flavors. The former chapel housing The Jane still bears a crucifix on its facade, lending an air of reverence to the experience. Renowned designer Studio Piet Boon has transformed the interior into a dramatic and captivating space. Striking light fixtures, stained-glass windows, and a repurposed altar, now serving as a stage for the talented chefs, form a mesmerizing backdrop. Behind a glazed screen, guests witness the magic unfold, as the culinary artistry harmonizes with the aweinspiring design.

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ARBOR - HONG KONG

In the bustling financial district of Hong Kong, Arbor awaits with its innovative approach to modern European cuisine. Finnish chef Eric Räty leads this two-Michelin-starred restaurant, captivating diners with his refined techniques. The interior design, crafted by the renowned Yabu Pushelberg, offers a sensory journey through residential-inspired spaces. Amidst the frenetic energy of Hong Kong, Arbor serves as an oasis of calm, inviting guests to partake in an intimate dining experience. The interconnected rooms create a sequence of natural spaces, skillfully blending nature and art. Embarking on this design narrative, visitors are welcomed into the embrace of a loving couple's home, where feasting becomes a harmonious celebration of food and ambiance.

SEZANNE - TOKYO, JAPAN

Culinary superstar Daniel Calvert's journey through London, New York, Paris, Hong Kong, and Tokyo culminates in Sezanne, located in the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi. Situated in one of the most iconic cities in the world, this establishment showcases Calvert's culinary roots in a breathtaking setting. Acclaimed Hong Kong-based Andre Fu Studio artfully creates an intimate and deeply personalized ambiance, engaging both the palate and the gaze.

Drawing inspiration from the boutique nature of the 57-key property, the designer delivers an authentic, welcoming, and cozy space that perfectly complements the refined cuisine. At Sezanne, guests are treated not only to exceptional dishes but also to an immersive dining experience where design and gastronomy converge in harmony. In conclusion, these five Michelin-starred restaurants transport guests into a world where culinary mastery meets extraordinary design. With their breathtaking interiors, these establishments elevate the dining experience to new heights, captivating all the senses. Immerse yourself in the beauty of these culinary temples, where art, design, and gastronomy seamlessly intertwine to create unforgettable memories. epicurevietnam 53

EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

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Embrace

UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES As the summer season arrives, it's time to revel in moments of joy, reunited, and excitement. Hoiana Resort & Golf, Vietnam's Luxury Integrated Resort, invites you to partake in a series of exhilarating activities throughout the summer, ensuring memories that will last a lifetime for you and your loved ones.

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s the summer season arrives, it's time to revel in moments of joy, reunited, and excitement. Hoiana Resort & Golf, Vietnam's Luxury Integrated Resort, invites you to partake in a series of exhilarating activities throughout the summer, ensuring memories that will last a lifetime for you and your loved ones.

Nestled along a pristine 4km coastline, with convenient access to the enchanting UNESCO World Heritage town of Hoi An, Hoiana offers an array of memorable experiences suitable for visitors of all ages.

Indulge in the sublime beauty of the golden coast, where thrilling adventures like kayaking and boogie surfing await. Alternatively, find solace under a white umbrella as you marvel at the vastness of the ocean. Unwind at one of the resort's four expansive swimming pools, where you can sip a refreshing cocktail or capture awe-inspiring selfies at the Edge infinity pool.

This breathtaking oasis provides panoramic views of Cham Island, evoking a sense of wonder while you relish a glass of champagne and savor succulent oysters at The Cove. epicurevietnam 55

As the sun sets, immerse yourself in the vibrant atmosphere of the Beach Club. Here, a tantalizing menu, poolside cocktails, and lively DJ music set the stage for an unforgettable night filled with sensational experiences.

Food enthusiasts will be delighted by the delectable offerings at Hoiana. With a multitude of restaurants, bars, and cafes within the resort, there is something to satisfy every palate.

Indulge in the freshest seafood at Seafood Mania, where the ocean's treasures are transformed into culinary masterpieces.

Explore Hoi An Food Street, a haven of local delicacies that will tantalize your taste buds. Don't miss the opportunity to savor the perfectly cooked beef at Beef Emporium, a gastronomic delight that will leave you yearning for more.

Immerse yourself in captivating moments at the Hoiana Summer Fun concerts featuring renowned Korean K-Pop bands and international pop stars from Hong Kong. Their soul-stirring melodies and captivating performances contribute to the serene ambiance, offering a respite for all visitors.

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For golf enthusiasts, whether seasoned players or newcomers, the resort offers an associated golf course and award-winning instructors. With breathtaking views of the coastline, this is an opportunity to indulge in a remarkable golfing experience.

Families with children will discover a haven of amusement and adventure at the Kids Club. Engaging and supervised activities allow children to explore, play, and form lasting friendships in a secure environment, granting parents the freedom to unwind and relax.

For those seeking a deeper understanding of local culture, the resort's travel services can assist you in embarking on enriching journeys. Immerse yourself in the vibrant tapestry of Hoi An Ancient Town, with its illuminated lantern-lit streets, captivating temples, and picturesque riverbanks. Cruise along the waterways

in a coconut boat or delve into the art of rum-making by visiting skilled artisans. Additionally, indulge in the tasting of exquisite handcrafted wines, further enhancing your cultural exploration.

With four distinct hotel brands housed within the integrated Hoiana Resort & Golf, each exuding unique characteristics, charm, and exceptional service, a wide range of accommodations cater to every taste. Combined with the exclusive Hoiana Summer Fun program, extraordinary adventures and indelible memories eagerly await your arrival.

HOIANA RESORT & GOLF Duy Xuyen District, Quang Nam Province, Vietnam T: +84 235 858 8888 | E: enquiry@hoiana.com

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EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

A Riverside Boutique Hotel which

DEFINES LUXURY LIVING Nestled along the banks of Saigon River, Villa Song Saigon has recently been honored with the prestigious Luxury Lifestyle Award, cementing its reputation in Ho Chi Minh City as a beacon of opulence, relaxation and unrivaled service.

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e are pleased to announce, that in accordance with the results of our research and selections, Villa Song Saigon has been named the winner of the Luxury Lifestyle Awards, in the category of Best Luxury Boutique Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Your impeccable reputation and professional performance has been recognized and acknowledged” said Alexander Chetchikov of the Organizing Committee of Luxury Lifestyle Awards in his congratulatory letter to Villa Song Saigon.

The awards ceremony was held in recognition of excellence in Hospitality, across the range of trade sectors, appreciating properties which follow and adhere to only the highest worldwide industry standards.

Villa Song Saigon has an unrivaled location by the river, as well as a grand and sophisticated architectural design. Not one of the 23 guest rooms are the same and each section of the hotel has been thoughtfully designed to present a vision of grandeur and elegance. The building’s layout seamlessly blends old-world charm with comfortable facilities and amenities, invoking a feeling of luxury and refinement for their honored guests.

The convenient in house speedboat shuttle service to District 1 also attracts business travelers to stay in more tranquil locale than that of the inner metropolis. The boat rides from Villa 58 epicurevietnam

Song Saigon to Saigon’s central district take a mere 5 minutes to complete, and is a scenic respite from the city’s inevitable rush hour traffic jams.

“The unrivaled location, elegant design, unparalleled team works and their luxury experience, are the main qualities which earned Villa Song Saigon the deserved accolades as winner of the coveted Luxury Lifestyle Award.” Arief Gunawan – General Director of Villa Song Saigon added.

VILLA SONG SAIGON 197/2, Nguyen Van Huong Street, Thao Dien Ward, Thu Duc City, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: +84 28 3744 6090 | E: info@villasong.com M: +84 7 9244 6090 | W: www.villasong.com

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EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

INDULGE IN A MULTI-SENSORY

DINING EXPERIENCE at Marina Bay Sands

Marina Bay Sands Singapore, the city’s most prestigious hotel and luxury shopping destination, presented their illustrious Food & Wine Festival to fans of the culinary arts, from the 15th to the 28th of May. The event’s theme “Where Your Senses Feast '' perfectly coined the myriad of exclusively curated, and sold-out epicurean events featuring Michelin-starred Chef sit-down dinners, theatrical gastronomic showcases, experimental dining experiences and craft cocktail Mixology demonstrations.

Marina Bay Sands Hotel's Exterior View

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Chef Luke Mangan from the Great Chef Showcase Dinner and dish: Seared & Poached 9+ Wagyu Beef Fillet, Red Wines Braised Onions, Mushroom, Figsand Asparagus

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he Great Chef Showcase by Luke Mangan, offered on the 17th and 18th, was a spectacle of technology meet gastronomy, presented amid an immersive multimedia pop-up dome tent. With music, dance, acrobatics, LED screen visuals and laser lights as the dinner’s atmosphere, the meal consisted of a four-course flight, with splendid wine pairings. Standouts of the magnificent presentation included a refreshing Hiramasa Kingfish Sashimi, drizzled with Sesame and Dashi Dressing, served with Compressed Nashi Pear and Shiso and a pairing of Trimbach, Riesling, 2020, Alsace, France, and a mouth-watering Seared and Poached 9+ Wagyu Beef Fillet, Red Wine Braised Onions, Mushroom, Fig and Asparagus, presented with Miles From Nowhere Best Blocks, Shiraz, 2020 to perfectly complement the dish.

On the 19th and 20th, Michelin-starred, and globally acclaimed Master Chefs Stefan Stiller of Taian Table, Shanghai, Tetsuya Wakuda of Waku Ghin, Singapore, and Greg Bess of CUT, Singapore, dazzled diners with their “Six Star Dinner”, presenting a culinary masterpiece of taste, texture, plating design, and gastronomic innovation. Although each dish furnished was an individual gastronomic triumph, spotlights included the trio of Canapés - Tartlet with Foie Gras Mousse, Smoked Eel, Green Apple and Ginger, by Chef Stefan Stiller, Hokkaido Scallops with Fresh Nori, Sea Urchin and Osciétra Caviar, by Chef Tetsuya

Wakuda, and Stone Axe Wagyu Tartare with Hollandaise Sauce and Beef Tendon, by Chef Greg Bess, paired with Krug Grande Cuvée, NV, France. Chef Wakuda’s tender, and positively delectable, Abalone Salad with White Asparagus, Black Bean and Orange Sauce was served with a chilled glass of Masuizumi for WAKUDA, and Chef Greg Bess’ velvety, cut-with-a-fork Stone Axe Full Blood Wagyu Filet Mignon with Wasabi Pea Purée, Caramelised Red Onion and Yuzu Kosho was coupled with Wolfgang Puck, Schrader-Beckstoffer-Georges III Vineyard, 2010 from America’s supreme wine making region of Napa Valley, California.

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Left to right: Actor Bosco Wong, Chef Stefan Stiller, Chef Tetsuya Wakuda and Chef Greg BessIhicae

Six Star Dinner's Canapes: Tartlet with Foie Gras Mousse, Smoked Eel, Green Apple and Ginger | Hokkaido Scallops with Fresh Nori, Sea Urchin and Osciétra Caviar | Stone Axe Wagyu Tartare with Hollandaise Sauce and Beef Tendon

At lunchtime, on the 21st, celebrated Chef Thitid Tassanakjohn, better known as Chef Ton, delivered four-course “A Culinary Symphony by Chef Ton”, with modern Thai cuisine offerings like Amadai, Sticky Rice and Curry of Mulberry Leaves and Japanese Wagyu, Northern Pepper and Khao Soi Curry. On the 23rd and 24th, Marquee Nightclub bestowed upon their guests a spirited collab “Marquee Experimental Dining” experience, by two celebrated chefs from Southeast Asia - Manila' Jordy Navarra of Toyo Eatery and Singapore's Johanne Siy of Lolla.

For festival goers unable to snag a “golden ticket” to one of the exclusive dining experiences, several of Marina Bay Sands’ restaurants offered limited-edition specials to meld with the “Where the Senses Feast" motif. Fine dining establishment Mott 32, contributed with an offering of their Signature Apple Wood Roasted 42 Days Peking Duck, artfully sliced tableside by Senior Sous Chef Don Chan, and served with a bottle of Krug Champagne. Renku Bar & Lounge offered patrons an Artisanal Journey with a special selection of organic and biodynamic wines, European cheeses, and freshly baked breads, and Wakuda Restaurant & Bar presented a flight of Yamazaki 12 Single Malt, Hakushu 12 Single Malt, and Nikka 12 Blended whiskeys.

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Marina Bay Sands is also home to a diverse range of festivals that must be experienced when visiting Singapore. These events offer unparalleled cultural experiences that are bound to create unforgettable memories. Don't miss out on the chance to immerse yourself in Singapore's vibrant festival scene at Marina Bay Sands.

Marina Bay Sands is considered one of the most quintessential hotel destinations on the planet, and their beautifully appointed rooms and suites, impeccable service, attention to sustainability, art collection, and sublime guest amenities are unmatched. The resort, designed by architect Moshe Safdie, was initially inspired by a deck of cards, and the most prominent feature of his modernist design is the three hotel towers, linked by an extended lobby at the base, and a 57-storey high roof line, exhibiting the world’s largest rooftop infinity pool. With waterfront views of iconic landmarks like Gardens By The Bay on one side, and the unobstructed city skyline on the other, although pool access is reserved for hotel guests only, hotel visitors may still experience MBS’ spectacular views at one of their three divine dining and cocktail destinations - Spago Dining Room by Wolfgang Puck,

Six Star Dinner's dish: Abalone Salad with White Asparagus and Black Bean and Orange Sauce

Lavo Italian Restaurant & Rooftop Bar and CÉ LA VI Restaurant.

Modelled after top-tier breakfast buffets, breakfast at Spago by Wolfgang Puck cannot be missed as it offers a literal cornucopia of delicious Western and Eastern options to choose from, suiting even the most discerning palate.

If a bit of retail therapy is required, a visit to The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands is a must. Nearly every coveted luxury brand including Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Gucci, Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Hermès, Bvlgari and Dior is represented, and the mall is home to the largest collection of luxury duplexes in Singapore today, satiating every luxury shopper’s greatest fantasy. Be sure to step into legacy fine jewellery designer Buccellati, to view astonishing pieces of wearable art. For the finest fragrances, each bottle of scent at AMAFFI Perfume House is housed in a hand-crafted, and intricately detailed keepsake box which you will undoubtedly display amongst your finest keepsakes. Lastly, if a pick-me-up is needed, a cup of takeaway coffee from Bacha Coffee, served in a beautiful Bacha Coffee tray, with a dollop of

Spago Bar & Lounge

vanilla bean chantilly cream, and rock sugar stick for sweetening, or a sit down for a pot or cuppa at exquisite tea house TWG Tea will do the trick.

For a near endless variety of supreme dining options, the foremost shopping for luxe designer goods, guest amenities and services second to none, and the most epic views of the city, plan a stay at Marina Bay Sands Singapore where luxury, comfort and premiere hospitality knows no bounds.

TWG Tea

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G O U R M E T K N OWLE DG E

ANNAM GOURMET'S 20-YEAR JOURNEY Raising Awareness for Community and Environmental Responsibility

With a range of initiatives aimed at giving back to society and minimizing their environmental footprint, Annam Gourmet is setting an exemplary standard for corporate sharing responsibility (CSR) in the industry, as well as being a proud member of Packaging Recycling Organization (PRO Vietnam). This article explores the various ways in which Annam Gourmet is making a positive impact on both the community and the environment for 20 years.

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nnam Gourmet exemplifies its commitment to supporting local communities, particularly those in need, through various initiatives. One of their notable partnerships is with Poussières De Vie, a non-profit organization focused on helping street children in Vietnam through training and career guidance programs.

Annam Gourmet provides financial support and collaborates with Poussières De Vie on different projects. One such notable project involves customers' efforts to return their paper shopping bags to reuse and for each paper bag returned, Annam Gourmet would donate 2,000 VND to Poussières De Vie. So far, customers have greatly supported this effort and returned 11,668 paper bags to raise funds. Furthermore, Annam Gourmet also recruits employees from the program.

To further support charitable causes, Annam Gourmet developed an in-app donation system within their mobile application. This feature allows customers to contribute directly to organizations such as Saigon Children, The Heart Institute

by Alain Carpentier foundation, and Poussières De Vie. By

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integrating this donation system, Annam Gourmet encourages their customers to actively participate in making a positive impact on the lives of those in need.

Besides efforts to give back to the community, Annam Gourmet is committed to minimizing its environmental impact and promoting sustainable practices throughout its operations.

The company prioritizes the use of environmentally friendly packaging materials and actively seeks alternatives to single-use plastics. They encourage customers to bring their own reusable bags offering incentives for doing so, in the Bring Your Own campaign. The campaign has successfully garnered support from their customers resulting in impressive outcomes: 96,154 reusable bags distributed to customers, 1,897,139 paper bags used for groceries and ultimately reduce the use of 8,936,619 plastic bags in the process.

In addition to reducing waste, Annam Gourmet actively engages in recycling and waste management practices. As a member of PRO Vietnam, Annam Gourmet and the organization have launched, and will launch many plastic packaging recycling projects, with the goal of reducing plastic waste and turning the waste into more valuable items. They have implemented a bottle recycling program in their loyalty app, encouraging customers to bring back used glass bottles to redeem points on the app, resulting in 14,910 empty glass bottles collected and recycled.

Annam Gourmet goes beyond their own operations to address larger environmental issues. They participate in treeplanting initiatives to combat deforestation and collaborate with environmental organizations to support conservation projects.

By integrating sustainable practices into their supply chain and advocating for environmental stewardship, Annam Gourmet aims to create a greener future.

Through their various initiatives, Annam Gourmet demonstrates a genuine concern for the community and the environment. By supporting local communities, engaging in environmental conservation efforts, and involving their employees, Annam Gourmet goes above and beyond in fulfilling their corporate social responsibility.

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EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

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Belle

CANTO

Rosewood Hong Kong and The St Regis Hong Kong add a sense of place to stays in the city through stylish design and delicious cuisine.

BY GRACE MA PHOTOS COURTESY OF ROSEWOOD HONG KONG AND THE ST REGIS HONG KONG

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ith all pandemic restrictions dropped and borders opened, Hong Kong, the city of ever-lit neon lights, delectable dim sum and better-than-ever fine dining is back in business. For stylish stays with a sense of place, the Rosewood Hong Kong and The St. Regis Hong Kong are the epitomes of home, storied by tales of resilience through protest and pandemic.

The 413-key Rosewood Hong Kong, located in the vibrant Victoria Dockside cultural district, is steeped in artistic vibes yet firmly planted in heritage. It is owned by the illustrious Cheng family, whose late patriarch Cheng Yu-tung made his fortune mostly through jewellery and real estate businesses. epicurevietnam 65

The city’s colourful mien is locally captured in framed prints and paintings alongside art pieces by international artists, creating the feel of a private home gallery as one walks through the hotel corridors. Snuggle down at night in the spacious, cosy guestrooms, the best of which are the suites overlooking Victoria Harbour. All 91 suites are serviced by a butler.

Rosewood’s eight bars and restaurants are a reflection of the city’s dedication to feed people well, coupled with stunning floor-to-ceiling harbour views in every space. Among its gems are one-Michelin starred Indian restaurant Chaat, which serves street food fit for royalty with flavours authentic to the last fiery dollop of pork cheek vindaloo, and Cantonese restaurant The Legacy House, which serves flawlessly executed Cantonese dim sum, roast meats, and rice and noodle dishes. Cocktail bar Darkside, ranked 49 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, may be a nod to Kowloon’s historical moniker but its daily live jazz performances, well-balanced tipples, and an extensive library of premium rum, whisky and calvados will lighten up any night out.

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DISCREET LUXURY

The beauty of the 129-room St Regis Hong Kong is its discreet presence in Wan Chai among mom-and-pop eateries and shops, high-rise office buildings and a growing presence of fine-dining restaurants. Hong Kong architect and interior designer André Fu has thoughtfully blended the original St Regis New York’s stately residential atmosphere with nostalgic vestiges of Hong Kong’s history, creating a contemporary residential haven.

In the rooms, art tomes and pieces on open shelves and deep soaking tubs in marble-clad bathrooms with bronze accents evoke a sense of home with floor-to-ceiling windows offering glittering city and harbour views. Butler service is just a WhatsApp message away and the staff are always happy to share their favourite foodie haunts and shops in the neighbourhood.

Two Michelin-starred L’Envol offers top-notch French cuisine served as tasting menus, including the caviar-themed Prestige. The flavours and plating are refined, the service is stellar, and every meal ends with the ultimate happiness expressed in a trolley of mignardises. One Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant Rùn is equally adept at the classics as it is with special items such as dishes made with Ping Yuen chicken, which is raised without hormone, steroids or antibiotic injections in the city’s northern New Territories. The St. Regis Bar’s signature Bloody Mary is expressed as a “Canto Mary” with a secret recipe of local spices, tangerine peel, and locally produced soy sauce while afternoon tea in the main dining area, The Drawing Room, is served on a trolley in the traditional way. epicurevietnam 67

EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

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Christina O Meets

JAMES BOND The place to be is on a deck chair aboard the new ‘yacht liner’ – heady drink in hand, sun overhead, and a pair of trained hands melting away shoulder tensions.

BY ROBERT STEDMAN PHOTOS COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS YACHTS

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ired of voyaging aboard those gigantic, soulless massmarket cruise ships with their small cabins, crowds and countless passengers? Well, Tillberg Design of Sweden (TDoS) has come up with a rather unique answer to make cruising more intimate and much more comfortable.

The company has now designed the world’s first 207-meter ‘yacht liner’, which means it’s actually a small, private luxury cruse ship. The Four Seasons Limited, a famous brand that runs 127 luxury hotels and resorts all over the planet, commissioned the ultramodern and well-appointed boat. Four Seasons expects to take delivery of their liner in 2025. Incidentally, the owner of Four Seasons is none other than Microsoft’s Bill Gates.

TDoS is responsible for the luxury yacht liner’s exterior and master planning. The superyacht/liner is 207 metres long and 27 metres wide and will have 14 decks and 95 suites.

The largest accommodation, the Funnel Suite, will offer a mind-boggling 892sqm (9,600sqft) of living space distributed over four levels. The suite will also be accessible directly, discretely and privately, from a tender platform at water level.

Naturally, the Four Seasons superyacht will also feature a number of swanky restaurants, lounges, bars, spas and other highly exclusive amenities.

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TDoS also designed all the guest suite accommodations besides the Funnel Suite, and a few of the iconic shared guest areas onboard.

“This project confirms a new and strong trend in modern ocean-going craft—luxury yacht liners,” says TDoS Partner and Executive Director Fredrik Johansson. “They are a new breed of very exclusive vessels that combine the scale of small and intimate cruise ships with superyacht amenities, splendour and a high level of sophistication.

“Our new project started with a very clear and unique vision from our client. The brief was condensed into a single line: Imagine that Christina O (the legendary yacht built for Greek tycoon Aristotle Onassis) meets James Bond….”

The harmonious lines and proportions of the Christina O, which also featured a very generous and beautifully furnished aft pool deck, inspired designers to add a 20-metre-long pool with a surrounding deck in the very aft of the 14-deck new liner.

When covered, the pool will double up as a stage for catwalks, events and live musical entertainment.

Their large and iconic funnels mostly shape the silhouette of Christina O, and the new Four Seasons yacht. The Four Seasons liner, however, will be designed and equipped to minimise emissions, so don’t expect its iconic funnel to belch out too much smoke.

Yet another spectacular design feature onboard is the portto-starboard ‘transversal marina’. Its terraced design also allows guests to enjoy the sea first hand, with immediate access to water activities, and ‘sea limousine’ transfers to shore.

The vessel’s 95 spacious accommodations will feature adjustable, adaptable floor plans to create villa-like residences.

Each suite will offer floor-to-ceiling windows providing unobstructed natural light and access to expansive terrace decks.

As of press time the boat has not be given a name or the price Four Seasons will be charging for this ultimate ocean-going luxury experience. One thing is for certain: It will be very, very expensive. epicurevietnam 7 1

EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

Unveiling

THE SPLENDOR

Experience the breathtaking transformation of a 19 th-century coaching inn in Champillon. The Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa is a stunning architectural masterpiece that blends tradition with contemporary allure. With a Michelinstarred restaurant and a serene spa offering unmatched views of the Champagne vineyards, it's an irresistible destination for discerning travelers.

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tepping into this exclusive resort, one is immediately greeted by the grandeur of its Michelin-starred restaurant, a culinary sanctuary revered by epicureans worldwide. But there's more—the hotel's latest addition, a sleek and stylish spa, commands unspoiled views of the picturesque Champagne vineyards, seamlessly blending the worlds of indulgence and natural beauty.

Renowned architect Giovanni Pace, celebrated for his work with Moët & Chandon, undertook the task of reimagining the 17th-century property to create a harmonious fusion of tradition and modernity. Every element, meticulously curated to cater to the needs of contemporary travelers, was

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designed to harmonize with the surrounding landscape. The elegant rooms and suites, dressed by the hotelier's own gifted interior designers, reflect the innate beauty of the natural world, adorning their walls with captivating natural accents and adorning spaces with fresh flowers that breathe life into every corner.

Within the walls of Le Royal restaurant, portraits of the significant women in Napoleon's life encircle diners, while dinner plates bear tender expressions from his love letters.

The patinated gold ceiling and the centerpiece chandelier, adorned with 36 delicately crafted blown-glass orbs, evoke the effervescence of Champagne itself.

At Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, sustainability is woven into the fabric of its design philosophy. Wooden key cards replace plastic, and plastic water bottles have been banished, replaced by elegant glass vessels in the rooms and Tetrapak water bottles in the spa.

A symphony of culinary delights awaits within the Michelinstarred Le Royal restaurant. Led by the visionary Chef Maxime Férique, the kitchen orchestrates a symphony of flavors, featuring a five-course tasting menu that transcends the ordinary. Each exquisitely presented dish showcases the finest ingredients and local produce, including fragrant herbs plucked from the hotel's gardens and delectable honey harvested from the hives nestled within the grounds. The service, executed with a choreography that appears effortless, leaves guests mesmerized by its precision and attention to detail.

At Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, wellness becomes an art form. Within the sprawling spa, guests discover a sanctuary of tranquility, housing an indoor swimming pool, nine luxurious treatment rooms, a sauna, a steam room, and Jacuzzis. A state-of-the-art yoga studio and fitness room stand ready to accommodate those seeking balance and rejuvenation. The outdoor pool, heated for year-round use, invites guests to surrender to bliss as they gaze upon the verdant vineyards that stretch to the horizon.

Exploring the Champagne houses of the region can be a daunting task. However, the Champagne Chauffeur package, an exclusive offering at Royal Champagne, grants you insider access to a custom itinerary of appointments with prestigious houses, accompanied by a dedicated driver. Indulge in an exquisite dinner at Le Royal and delight in a private tasting experience led by the esteemed Chef Sommelier Philippe Marques.

For those seeking the pinnacle of luxury, the Josephine Suite beckons. Spanning an impressive 110 square meters, this haven of refinement features a separate living room, a spacious dressing room, and a lavish bathroom adorned with exquisite locally sourced travertine.

Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa is an extraordinary destination where every moment unfolds with grace and elegance. Embrace the allure of this enchanting retreat and immerse yourself in the timeless splendor of Champagne, where a symphony of flavors, breathtaking landscapes, and world-class hospitality await your arrival. epicurevietnam 73

EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

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Discovering

THE CHARMS OF CHAMPAGNE There has never been a better time to visit Champagne. The region's hotels, restaurants, and visitor experiences have finally caught up to the reputation of the wines themselves. Whether you're exploring Reims or Épernay, which are easily accessible as day trips from Paris by train, or venturing into the charming villages to escape the tour groups, Champagne offers a wealth of delights to discover.

TOP TIPS FOR VISITING CHAMPAGNE PRODUCERS

Plan Ahead: To make the most of your visit, it's recommended to book in advance, preferably at least two weeks ahead. Additionally, make sure to notify the producers if you're running late. Keep in mind that the roads can be slow during the summer months when tractors are out.

Respect Lunch Closures: Lunch breaks are sacred in Champagne, even for car hire companies in Reims and Épernay. It's important to plan your schedule accordingly. Also, be aware of public holidays when planning your visit.

Consider Timing: Smaller producers may be more reluctant to receive visitors during peak vineyard work periods, such as late June, July, and harvest time. Furthermore, many larger houses effectively shut down in August. Plan your visit accordingly to avoid disappointment.

Do Your Research: Before visiting a Champagne house, take the time to research and learn about their history and offerings. Keep in mind that many smaller producers do not have dedicated staff for greeting guests and giving tours, so they graciously take time out of their busy schedules to share their work. While some smaller growers may not be able to sell you wine due to fully allocated stocks, Reims and Épernay boast excellent bottle shops where you might find their wines. Despite this, fees for visits are generally reasonable compared to other wine regions.

TOP CHAMPAGNE HOUSES TO VISIT Ruinart, Reims

Descend into the centuries-old chalk mine caverns at Ruinart, located in Reims.

These Gallo-Roman crayères are a must-see attraction. Ruinart, one of the oldest houses in the region, offers a truly atmospheric visit with its beautifully maintained house and garden. Their carefully curated tours conclude with tastings of their supremely elegant Chardonnay-focused cuvées.

Address: 4 Rue des Crayères, 51100 Reims, France. Phone: +33 3 26 77 51 52

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GH Mumm, Reims

For a more accessible introduction to Champagne in Reims, visit Mumm's historic house. Take their popular tour of extensive cellars and explore some of their quirkier projects, such as the first bottle of Champagne in space. To ensure a taste of their fine and elegant RSRV range, showcasing wines from grand cru villages and lengthy lees ageing, it's recommended to book the Grand Cru Experience.

During the summer months, Mumm also offers unique experiences on weekends, including thought-provoking sensory tastings and Champagne and cheese pairings. Address: 34 Rue du Champ de Mars, 51100 Reims, France. Email: guides@mumm.com

Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, Cuis

Visiting independent growers is an essential part of any Champagne itinerary. At Gimonnet, one of the larger growers in the region, you can explore the northern Côte des Blancs, home to some of Champagne's greatest Chardonnay. Their impeccably crisp, pure wines provide a vivid picture of the chalky slopes between Cuis and Oger. It's best to book your visit in advance, as Gimonnet has published opening hours. After your visit, venture into the Côte des Blancs and experience warm welcomes from producers such as Champagnes Lancelot-Pienne, Diebolt-Vallois, Delamotte, Franck Bonville, Doyard, and Larmandier-Bernier. Address: 1 Rue de la République, 51530 Cuis, France. Phone: +33 3 26 59 78 70

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Moussé Fils, Cuisles

Heading west from Épernay, the Marne Valley offers some of Champagne's most charming landscapes. In Cuisles, Cedric Moussé's family domaine offers impeccable vineyard work and an off-grid, sustainable winery full of unique innovations. Explore the gently folding hills and woodland, which replace the uniform carpets of vineyards found in other areas. You might even have the opportunity to meet Moussé's chickens or the flock of vineyard sheep. Address: 3 Rue de Jonquery, 51700 Cuisles, France. Phone: +33 3 26 58 10 80. Email: 100ans@champagnemousse.fr

Drappier, Urville

Don't miss the Côte des Bar region, located 90 minutes south of Reims, often overlooked by visitors. Drappier, a family-run Champagne house, is a key player in the south. They produce naturally expressive, gastronomic Champagnes that champion Pinot Noir on the Kimmeridgian limestone, also found in Chablis. The region offers stunning medieval towns like Troyes and nearby Chardonnay village Montgueux, as well as rolling landscapes that are more naturalistic than the north. Address: Rue des Vignes, 10200 Urville, France. Phone: +33 (0)3 25 27 40 15. Email: info@champagne-drappier.com

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G O U R M E T K N OWLE DG E

BETTER WITH AGE

Fermentation, perhaps the oldest biotech process, has been around for millennia, giving longer shelf life to fresh produce and preventing foods from spoiling.

But it is only now that we are learning to appreciate the health benefits that come with fermented foods.

BY PRIYANKA ELHENCE

“F

ermentation is the future of cooking,” declares chef-patron René Redzepi of three-Michelinstarred Noma and four-time winner of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants award in his cookbook The Noma Guide to Fermentation. Here, Redzepi and co-author David Zilber (Noma’s fermentation lab head) spotlight Nomainspired ferments such as koji, misos and black fruits versus better known ferments like sauerkraut. Redzepi has long been heralded for his foraging and fermenting techniques, and even has his own fermentation lab for the restaurant. He likens the process to Lego where the more ferments you have, the more flavours you can build, which makes cooking much easier.

FERMENTED FOODS ARE HEALTHY

So when an award-winning chef like Redzepi believes in fermentation to the extent that it is the restaurant’s main pillar (there isn’t a single menu or dish at Noma that isn’t fermented in some way), we can’t help but want to deep-dive into it. We already know that our digestive tract is home to approximately 100 trillion bacteria and other microorganisms, which is why gut health is central to our overall well-being (see our feature on gut health in our Feb/Mar 22 issue).

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Prism by Luzerne

KOKS from the Faroe Islands practises traditional techniques such as ræst, a form of wind-powered dryageing that combines fermentation and ageing

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Hokkaido Scallop, Milk-braised Parsnip, Purple Garlic Soup from Tippling Club

A CHEF’S PLAYGROUND

An assortment of dishes from The Butcher’s Wife

That’s where fermented foods come in – research has shown they have excellent health benefits, thanks to the presence of gut-friendly bacteria called probiotics. These good, live microbes thrive in fermented products such as yogurt, kimchi, pickles, sauerkraut and fermented soybeans (think natto, tempeh and miso). Unfortunately, our diets have changed dramatically in modern times due to the increased amount of processed foods we consume, and because (ironically) of the “clean” produce grocery stores carry which have less bacteria on it. This drastically reduces the number of microbes people would be exposed to naturally through dirt and other contaminants.

In addition, our increased use of antibiotics kill off beneficial organisms along with the bad ones, thus negatively altering the gut microbiome.

Research increasingly shows that a diverse and healthy intestinal microbiome (the gut’s microbial community) is critical to good health. Fermented foods can bolster the gut microbiome, creating a healthier mix of microbes in the digestive tract, boosting our immune system and purportedly strengthening the walls of the intestines to keep them from leaking (a condition known as “leaky gut syndrome”).

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But not all fermented foods are created equal, and it’s because of the difference in live microbes present in each food. For instance, kefir, yoghurt and cheese are all dairy products produced by fermentation, but yoghurt has far more live bacteria than cheese, and kefir tops that of even yoghurt.

Still, fermentation is a valued technique that people should continue to explore. Tippling Club’s head chef Ayo Adeyemi explains, “Fermentation is an ancient preservation technique that has been used over thousands of years in nearly all cultures and cuisines around the world. It has contributed to so many staple ingredients that are used in everyday cooking in today’s society, including soy sauce, miso and sourdough. Besides its vast nutritional benefits, fermentation is a great way to keep foods from spoiling, allowing chefs to have an innovative and experimental platform on how to use foods that would have been disregarded otherwise. People don’t realise that fermentation is used in so many food commodities such as coffee, cheese and chocolate production, and that it can easily be done at home.”

Ancient indeed! At Tiong Bahru Bakery, chef de cuisine Paul Albert uses a 160-year old sourdough starter for his large variety of sourdough breads and pizzas. Over at The Butcher’s Wife, head chef Mariana Campos reveals she is obsessed with fermentation because of the way it magically transforms an ingredient into something totally different. “Not only is it an effective form of food preservation, fermented foods boost the good bacteria in your stomach, promote good gut health, improve digestion and immunity while resulting in many amazing and interesting arrays of flavours and texture,” she says.

A CONTINUOUS SUPPLY OF FOOD

In colder northern climates, fermenting food has allowed people to have vegetables and fibre throughout the long winter months when they otherwise wouldn’t be available. For instance, while fresh cabbage has a very short shelf life, fermented sauerkraut or kimchi last for months. So it’s not hard to understand Redzepi’s obsession with fermentation, given Denmark’s long winters. Furthermore, fermentation can make food more nutritious and ups the vitamin B12 levels in fermented vegetables, which is normally not present in plant foods.

Fermented meat perhaps? Raw fermented lamb atop crispy fried reindeer lichen, with a mushroom and pickled berry emulsion is just one of the signature dishes at two Michelin-starred KOKS in the Faroe Islands, helmed by executive chef Poul Andrias Ziska.

Like Redzepi, Ziska is another great believer in fermentation. He is famous for serving new Nordic cuisine using the finest sustainably sourced Faroese produce, created through the ancient practices of drying, salting, smoking, and above all, fermenting.

Their uniqueness, says Ziska, comes from these traditional techniques which are very important to their identity.

Central to the Faroese fermentation is the practice of ræst, a form of wind-powered dry-aging, akin to a combination of fermentation and ageing. Some of the restaurant’s signatures include fermented ocean perch with fermented lamb intestines and cheese, and cod filet with fermented cabbage and caviar. To ferment the meat, joints of freshly butchered lamb are hung in a hjallur or wooden shed, chinked with drafty gaps to allow the islands’ incessant winds to blow through it, culminating in a much sought-after layer of green mould on the meat that comes with time and wind.

Meanwhile, chef-owner Drew Nocente o ​ f Salted & Hung uses fermentation in a couple of ways to make fish garum, kombucha and pickles since it is a great method to extract unique flavours for his dishes.

It is also one of the avenues in which the restaurant achieves its zero waste philosophy by maximising an ingredient’s potential. “Most people think that fermentation is a lot more complicated than it really is. It’s a fun activity which can be done at home and perhaps as a family bonding experience. Start the basics with just a few staple ingredients such as salt, vinegar, whey and spices. Almost all vegetables can be fermented,” says Nocente.

The”sourdough hotel” at Tiong Bahru Bakery

People don’t realise that fermentation is used in so many food commodities such as coffee, cheese and chocolate production, and that it can easily be done at home.

AYO ADEYEMI, HEAD CHEF, TIPPLING CLUB

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Turbot Bone, Turbot Bushi, and Fish Garum from Salted & Hung

CREATIVE FERMENTING

To tackle the lack of Singapore’s seasonality, Adeyemi uses lactofermentation (fermentation that occurs with the lactobacillus bacteria) with seasonal fruits and vegetables such as red cherries, Mirabelle plums and cordyceps in his menu at Tippling Club.

“We frequently use a fermented rice bran paste that’s commonly used in Japan for pickling vegetables. The practice of using large cedar tubs filled with this paste or sake lees (a byproduct of the sake brewing process) with vegetables buried inside is common practice in Japanese homes for adding flavour to vegetables and giving them a pickle-like sensation – perfect for soup and rice accompaniments.”

For their vegetarian Carrot Tartare Tartlet snack option, instead of using wagyu, Adeyemi buries the Normandy carrots in fermented rice bran paste for five days to ferment, as part of an elaborate process to mimic the meaty texture of wagyu. “The resulting flavour profile has a meaty texture, but with a pleasant salty acidity and slight sharpness,” he says.

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He also uses the umami-boosting shio koji (a Japanese marinade made by fermenting koji grains) as a way for marinating meats, particularly the Australian Black (Angus) Onyx Striploin.

“Marinating the whole cut with shio koji for 24 hours gives it similar properties to dry ageing, where the enzymes from the koji convert the meat protein to amino acids while maturing the flavour and texture of the beef.” As the starch from the koji has been converted to sugars during fermentation, the resulting natural sugars add sweet, caramelised notes to the roasted beef. “Our signature Purple Garlic Soup is also seasoned only with shio koji paste for a richer depth in flavour which cannot be achieved with salt,” he adds.

At Tiong Bahru Bakery, Albert explains that fermentation is an on-going process – it is “alive” – so results can vary each time.

He adds, “I am especially fascinated by the process of sourdough fermentation. It is amazing how basic ingredients such as flour, water and natural yeast work together to grow and produce something that is not only delicious, but also amazing for gut

health. The artisanal craft of ancient sourdough making is one of the oldest and most natural methods of bread making that doesn’t rely on any man-made chemicals.”

“Sourdough breads are more digestible as the fermentation process leads to an increase in pre- and probiotics, resulting in better gut health. Mass-produced breads can contain a number of chemicals, preservatives and bleaching agents, with one dimensional flavours. Sourdough breads have a lower glycemic index compared to other breads, and helps with gluten digestion.“ Campos at The Butcher’s Wife similarly applies fermentation in a large number of ways because such foods are able to inject interesting textures and flavours. “When people think of fermented foods, they think about pickles, especially as a garnish or palate cleanser,” she says. “On our menu, we offer a wide array of vegetable pickles such as white kimchi, pickled root vegetables, cucumbers, chayote and chilies while applying fermentation techniques to lesser known ingredients too.” She

DID YOU KNOW Food stored in pickle jars in supermarkets are often pickled in vinegar, but without the use of any natural fermentation process and live organisms.

Look for the words “naturally fermented” on the label to ensure the bottle contains probiotics.

Bubbles in the pickling liquid are also a sure sign of live organisms inside the jar.

ferments her own goat’s cheese; chickpeas for chickpea toast; cultured cashew creams; fermented black beans for falafels; and incorporates miso in desserts. She is already famous for her house-made kombucha.

“Fermentation is also the perfect way to reduce food waste as we can use off-cuts and trimmings, and prolong the lifespan of each ingredient,” she adds.

Sourdough loaves ready for the oven at Tiong Bahru Bakery

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A LEGACY of EXCEPTIONAL FLAVORS From their meticulously crafted charcuteries to their unwavering commitment to tradition, LC Salaisons' embodies a legacy of exceptional flavors. Discover their artisanal range and embark on a gastronomic journey like no other.

EXPERIENCE THE ESSENCE OF CULINARY EXCELLENCE

LC Salaisons' factory, a three-generation family business, is situated in Roiffieux, Ardèche, which is a mountainous region.

In 1947, the Chaillot brothers, who had been involved in the pig trading family business for many years, established Léon Chaillot, the most renowned cured meat factory in the province.

Their secret lies in meticulously selecting only the finest cuts of fresh French pork meat and allowing it to mature for an extensive period. With an impressive production capacity of 7500 square meters, LC Salaisons annually produces approximately 1200 tons of charcuterie.

Rather than adopting an overly industrial approach to charcuterie products, the company prioritizes preserving the authenticity of a centuries-old heritage. To achieve this, they specialize in developing saucissons that undergo a slow maturation process in dryers. These saucissons acquire a distinctive flavor infused with forest mushrooms, thanks to the natural flora present within the drying environment. The uniqueness of their recipes stems from their use of exclusively natural casings, fresh meat, a prescribed resting period before stuffing to enhance salt penetration, and a meticulous slow drying process accompanied by regular quality checks. epicurevietnam 85

A GASTRONOMIC JOURNEY

Furthermore, the company holds ISO 22000 certification, an internationally recognized food safety management system.

This certification aims to standardize global requirements for food safety management within organizations operating in the food chain. ISO 22000 is particularly suited for organizations seeking a comprehensive and cohesive food safety management system. It mandates compliance with all relevant statutory and regulatory food safety obligations through the implementation of a robust food safety management system.

Due to their unwavering commitment to perpetuating traditional, deliberate, and controlled production methods, LC Salaisons has been honored with the title of 'PRODUCTEUR ARTISAN DE QUALITÉ' by the culinary college of France.

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LC Salaisons' delightful range of products offers three distinct recipes: "IGP Ardèche," "Montagne," and "Bio".

The PGI Ardèche saucissons embody the essence of French excellence. They are meticulously crafted from pigs that are exclusively born, raised, and expertly prepared in France, following a traditional Ardèche recipe. These products carry the prestigious VPF certification (Viande Porcine Française - French Pork Meat), which ensures adherence to rigorous standards overseen by an independent authority. Indulge in their unmistakable flavor, delicately spiced with hints of garlic and pepper, and savor a bite of the culinary heritage of Ardèche.

On the other hand, Montagne saucissons epitomize the harmonious blend of nature and craftsmanship. These saucissons are carefully crafted using pork sourced from freerange pigs that roam the picturesque mountainous regions of France. Raised on small family farms and nourished with cereals for at least 75% of their feed, these pigs thrive amidst their natural surroundings. From the rearing of the pigs to the processing at our renowned Léon Chaillot factory, every step of the production takes place in the serene mountain areas.

The result is a milder taste, delicately balanced in its saltiness, accompanied by a tender and intricate meaty flavor unique to fresh, free-range pork.

Embracing its commitment to organic farming, LC Salaisons' proudly present Bio range. These saucissons are exclusively crafted from meticulously selected French ingredients and encased in natural casings. They undergo rigorous scrutiny from an independent body, ensuring compliance with the strict regulations of "Organic Agriculture" as dictated by European standards. Experience the purity and goodness of their organic offerings, which serve as a testament to our unwavering dedication to quality.

Each recipe, whether it's IGP Ardèche, Montagne, or Bio, is available in three distinctive shapes: the Short Saucisson (saucisson sec), the Curved Saucisson (saucisse sèche courbe), and the Long Saucisson (Le Barou). These variations provide a range of options to suit every taste and occasion.

For their Food Service Range, the brand offers two exceptional recipes: IGP Ardèche and Montagne. These products are crafted with care and aged to perfection, utilizing natural pork casings and the finest fresh French pork meat. The outcome is an unparalleled culinary experience that delights even the most discerning palates.

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BE A GRILL MASTER

Charcoal grilling doesn’t have to be difficult as long as you have the right techniques, tools and a little patience. Here are some tips and tricks for the perfect barbecue.

BY NIDA SEAH

Korean-style beef ribsover charcoal

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ith the rainy season behind us, it’s time to get fired up and enjoy a good cookout. In Singapore, a barbecue often involves boisterous gatherings with family and friends, all huddled together around the pit, first trying to light the charcoal, fanning the flames, arguing who should do the cooking, then getting covered in smoke and grease.

And that’s even before the meat has touched the grill. The end result, however, is often worth the sweat and heat, because the smoky and succulent flavours of charcoal-grilled foods are 8 8 epicurevietnam

hard to beat. Founder and grill master of Fyregrill (Singapore’s only integrated multi-brand barbecue retail store and academy), Desmond Tan, explains why: “As the meat cooks, the drippings which contain fats, sugars and proteins vaporise upon hitting the hot charcoal and rise back up to envelop and coat the meat.

Furthermore, charcoal burns at a very high temperature and can sear meat very quickly, creating a delicious and attractive crusty, caramelised exterior.” Here, he shares his expertise and dishes out several tips on how to grill your food using charcoal for the perfect barbecue.

Founder of Fyregrill, Desmond Tan

TAN’S TOP 3 BARBECUE TIPS 1. Always burn off and clean your cooking grates thoroughly before the start of each grilling session.

Nobody wants a taste of last week’s burnt gunk.

2. Season your meat and vegetables with an adequate but not excessive amount of salt. Feel free to use seasoning rubs but allow the natural flavour of your meat (especially if they are premium) to shine through.

3. Always ensure that your cooking surface is adequately hot before placing any meat on it to get a proper sear.

NOT ALL CHARCOAL ARE EQUAL

Charcoal, in its simplest form, is made by burning wood in a low oxygen environment. It burns hotter, cleaner, and more evenly compared to wood. There is lump charcoal made from carbonised solid wood pieces; binchotan (often used in Japanese cooking) which burns at higher temperatures and is practically odourless; and briquettes that are made from compressed charcoal, sawdust or other combustible biomass material and shaped into uniformed pieces. Tan encourages users to try various types of charcoal and see what suits them, but advises to avoid those that are “instant” or have any kind of accelerant added to them as they might impart an unpleasant chemical aroma to your food.

ELEVATE YOUR COOKING

There are several ways to level up the flavours. According to Tan, adding a rotisserie or wok allows one to employ a wider range of techniques to cook more varied dishes such as porchetta, roast or stir-fry rather than simply slapping meat on a grill. “It always impresses people when someone cooks something unexpected on a barbeque such as smoked chicken curry, claypot rice, biryani or a dessert like a pie or tart,” he says. “Use fresh herbs, pickled vegetables or grilled fruits as an accompaniment to add sweetness or acidity to enhance your dishes or to refresh one’s palate.”

Consider using wood planks such as cedar or maple to cook more delicate types of meat such as fish. “Not only do they add to the flavour but help maintain the delicate texture of the fish,” he adds.

Smoking and “low and slow” techniques will also allow you to cook meat (preferably with more fat and connective tissues) over a longer period of time. A charcoal grill is able to achieve lower temperatures as compared to a gas grill for “low and slow” cooking by using the appropriate amount of charcoal to create heat zones.

Oklahoma Joe’s Blackjack Kettle Charcoal Grill

GET THE RIGHT TOOLS

No-brainers include heat-proof gloves, tongs and spatula.

Another key tool is a basting brush to brush on your favourite sauce. Tan also suggests a thermometer to accurately measure the doneness of meat. epicurevietnam 89

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MASTERING THE ART of WINE & STEAK PAIRING Pairing wine with steak is an essential part of your wine journey. With a wide variety of cuts and preparation methods for steak, you can discover a few go-to dry red wines or delve deep into pairing nuances.

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veryone has their preferred cut of steak, and we have the perfect wine pairings to accompany them. So, tuck your napkin into your collar, grab your knife, and let's explore the best wines to pair with steak. The rule of thumb when pairing steak is to choose dry red wines. Leaner cuts of meat pair well with lighter wines, while richer, fattier cuts require high tannin wines that can cut through the fat. However, the more tailored your pairing is to the specific cut of steak, the deeper and more sophisticated your dining experience becomes. Let's explore the classic cuts and their respective wine pairings. Pro Tip: For leaner meats, aim for a rarer cook to keep them tender.

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Sirloin One of the most common steak cuts, sirloin is fairly lean with light fat marbling and is often cut with a strip of fat along the edge. Sirloin can be prepared on the grill, in the oven, or in a pan, but it truly shines on the grill.

WINES TO PICK French Syrah: Pairs well with butter sauces. Check out regions in the Northern Rhône like SaintJoseph or Crozes-Hermitage for better value, and Cornas or Côte-Rôtie for serious quality.

Spanish Tempranillo: Try an aged Rioja Reserva.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo: Look for this Italian mainstay from Colline Teramane for higher quality.

Why they work: Sirloin is a versatile cut that can be seasoned or sauced in various ways. We've chosen flexible wines that can complement any direction you take with your dish. However, pay attention to how your seasoning changes the flavor profile and choose your wine accordingly.

Ribeye & Bone-In One of the richest and tastiest cuts of steak, ribeye has lots of marbling and is naturally tender. It does well on the dry heat of a hot grill. The bone-in version follows the same pairing rules but can be trickier to cook evenly due to the attached rib bone.

WINES TO PICK Cabernet Sauvignon: Pairs well with a rosemary pan cook.

Sonoma or Napa Valley Zinfandel: Ideal for grilling ribeye.

Amarone della Valpolicella OR Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso: Rich and smoky with cherry-driven fruit.

Why they work: The higher fat content of ribeye results in a buttery, fatty flavor that requires either high tannins to cut through the fat or stronger fruit flavors for contrast.

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Porterhouse & T-Bone While Porterhouse and T-Bone are slightly different cuts, they both feature a tender filet side and a firmer, flavorful strip side. They can be cooked in a pan, but grilling is typically easier for even cooking.

WINES TO PICK Nebbiolo OR Barolo: Stylish, aromatic reds with grippy tannins from Northern Italy.

Definitely the high-roller option.

Aglianico: A rich red from Italy's south with super meaty flavors. When paired with a meaty steak, this wine delivers pure fruit!

Xinomavro: ("Ksee-no-mah-vroh") A very flavorful, red-fruit-driven aromatic Greek red.

Look for wines from Naoussa and Amyndeon.

Why they work: Both Porterhouse and T-Bone are tender but fairly lean cuts. Aromatic and flavorful red wines will complement the combination of filet and strip in these cuts.

Filet Mignon The Cadillac of steak cuts, filet mignon is incredibly lean, tender, and flavorful. It is often served with sauces but is also excellent with a simple seasoning of salt and pepper. Panseared and butter-basted preparations are particularly delightful.

WINES TO PICK Merlot OR a Merlot-based red blend: Try one from Bordeaux or Washington State.

Touriga Nacional: Coming from Portugal, this deep, dark, fruity red offers subtle floral notes of violet. A great choice for steak au poivre.

Mencía: ("Men-thee-yah") An elegant option from the northern parts of Spain with tart red berry notes and minerality.

Why they work: Filet mignon has subtle flavors, and all of these wines stay in their lane, delivering complementary flavors that enhance the cut without overpowering it.

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Strip A popular choice for value and flavor, the strip steak goes by many names such as New York Strip, shell steak, or Kansas City strip. Some variations have bone-in, but overall, you're getting a short loin cut. The strip has more connective tissue, but it is still tasty and tender when cooked properly. Sear it in a cast-iron pan, season with salt, baste with butter, and let it rest a little longer.

WINES TO PICK Blaufränkisch: This Austrian and German red is known for black cherry notes, good acidity, and a sweet smoky finish.

The GSM Blend: A blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, mostly known from France's Rhône Valley, including the famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape sub-region.

South African "Bordeaux" style blend: South Africa's 500 million-year-old terroir gives Merlot-Cabernet blends a distinctive dusty quality with refined tannins. They are fruit-forward and earthy at the same time.

Why they work: Strip steak is flavorful and has a thicker grain, making it suitable for various cooking methods. It requires a wine that can complement its flavor and cut through the fat. Our wine choices have strong fruit flavors along with acidity and tannins to get the job done.

Rump Rump comes from a harder working muscle, making it firm but highly flavorful. It can benefit from marinating, but keep in mind that it may affect your wine selection.

WINES TO PICK Mourvèdre (aka Monastrell): Look for wines from Bandol, France, or Spain. This peppery wine pairs well with meaty flavors.

Chilean Carménère: A classic choice for steak frites or a steak topped with chimichurri sauce.

Italian Dolcetto: A deep, dark berry-flavored wine with soft acidity and high tannins. A great choice if you've marinated your rump steaks.

Why they work: Rump is prepared in various ways to overcome its firm texture, so we've selected wines that can support your chosen cooking method. Consider your sauces when pairing wine and plan the rest of the meal accordingly.

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Flank & Skirt While not identical, both flank and skirt steak can be cooked using similar techniques. They marinate well, making them ideal for fajitas. However, if you prefer a purely steak experience, they can be seasoned with salt and pepper and grilled.

WINES TO PICK Sangiovese: Try Chianti Classico, Vino Noblie de Montepulciano, or Montefalco Rosso. The acidity and red fruit flavors cut through the chewiness.

Cabernet Franc: For a sweet-fruit-smoky style, look to the United States and Argentina. For an herbaceous Cabernet Franc, head to France's Chinon region if you're serving alongside greens.

Garnacha: Another Spanish red that offers red berry fruit flavors and zestiness that easily slices through chewy steaks.

Why they work: It's important not to overcook flank and skirt steaks; otherwise, they become tough. However, even when perfectly cooked, these cuts are tougher. Our wine selections aim to complement the flavorful yet chewy beef, turning it from a chore into a savory experience.

Brisket While not a traditional steak cut, brisket is still worthy of consideration when it comes to pairings. This cut excels when cooked low and slow, especially on a smoker. If you don't have a smoker, consider getting one and live a little! Your wine selection will be influenced by the type of fuel used in the smoker. We recommend wood chips, and hickory is a popular choice for brisket.

WINES TO PICK Sagrantino: A rare red from Italy's Umbria region.

These wines are near-opaque with bold black fruit and mouth-coating tannins. Sagrantino will elevate your brisket experience.

Petite Sirah: A great smoky and rich option from the United States with big tannins that cut through the meaty richness of brisket and barbecue.

Australian Shiraz: A smoother option with slightly less tannin that brings smokiness and notes of blueberry and blackberry.

Why they work: Most preparations of brisket result in a smoky flavor, and these wines complement and enhance that characteristic.

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THE NEW ART of CHINESE TEA

Elevate your afternoon indulgence to a different level with Tian Fu Tea Room’s elegant presentation of its new tea menu.

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p on the 60th storey of TOP of UOB Plaza lies a bestkept secret that should be shared – Tian Fu Tea Room adjacent to Si Chuan Dou Hua Restaurant. The intimate teahouse (there is also an outlet at PARKROYAL on Beach Road) offers an alternative to the slew of Western high tea salons in the market and stands out for its premium range of Chinese teas. Over 30 varieties of green, red, yellow, white and flower teas are offered here, and are served in their own unique teapot and cups – not one set will be repeated. Plus, a resident tea specialist is on hand to provide tea knowledge and tasting notes.

Tea aficionados will appreciate its Imperial High Tea, available daily from 2.30pm to 6pm. The food menu changes on a monthly basis, so that guests can savour different afternoon delights. Enjoy seven types of morsels, made freshly in the kitchen of Si Chuan Dou Hua Restaurant.

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Kick-start the experience with a cup of Long Jing, an unfermented green tea that helps to revive the palate. The refined tannins cuts through the richness of the pork and crab pastries.

Diners can also expect Instagram-worthy seasonal dishes, such as the highly addictive deep-fried sweet potato slices topped with marinated minced meat, as well as deep-fried Iberico ham served with egg white and peas whose well-rounded flavours are a testament to the kitchen team’s skills.

If you are a fan of oolong tea, opt for the half-fermented and more intense Feng Huan Dan Cong, which also helps to cleanse your palate. It’s a good match with spicy dishes (on the ever-changing menu) such as minced meat dumplings in a piquant Sichuan spice and dried chilli dressing, as well as hearty knife-shredded noodles with minced meat drenched in a tasty superior stock.

Sweet treats are best paired with the Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong red tea. The fermented tea is caffeine-free, so you won’t have a problem going to sleep at night. End the experience with Si Chuan Dou Hua Restaurant’s signature beancurd dessert – soothing, silky and livened up with wolfberries.

Looking for an uninterrupted tête-à-tête session with your girlfriends? The tea expert will place a kettle of hot water at your table, so you will be able to top up your tea to your own liking.

The Imperial High Tea food menu at TOP of UOB Plaza is crafted by the outlet’s new executive chef Chan Shun Wong, who started out as a wok cook in his hometown of Hong Kong in 2002 before relocating to Singapore in 2011. Chan was the executive Chinese chef of Peach Blossom and Xin Cuisine before he joined Si Chuan Dou Hua Restaurant this year.

“A typical Chinese high tea always features dim sum, and I want to break that mould, to show that there are other ways to enjoy high tea. This led to the new Imperial High Tea menu. The dishes are my inspirations from my travels and everyday life as well as the people around me. For example, the idea of the deep-fried sweet potato chips topped with Sakura prawns was inspired by my colleague’s trip to Japan,” shares Chan.

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THE ESSENCE of SOUTH AFRICAN BRAAI Set within a grand and immaculately restored residential villa, smack in the centre of the vibrant and highly trendy culinary hub of Thao Dien Ward, Thu Duc City, Ho Chi Minh City, a new gastronomic barbeque experience has immerged in Vietnam, in the form of an African safari themed restaurant aptly named Carnivore.

BY TRACIE MAY-WAGNER

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ntroducing the bold, savoury, and singular flavours of South Africa, through their most coveted eating and drinking tradition of Braai, or South African barbeque, at the helm of Carnivore sits Executive Chef Floris Mostert, who for the past 9 years has dedicated his life’s work to perfecting the dishes offered and celebrated at a South African Braai, a culinary hybrid of 11 tribal influences. A Braai is not simply a style of food preparation. It is a lifestyle, a time- honoured tradition and cultural celebration, bringing together friends, family, neighbours, and strangers to eat, drink, laugh, dance and share stories as a community, with grilled rotisserie meats and beloved regional signature dishes at its core.

We had the chance to sit with Chef Floris and discuss South African Braai, his homeland’s revered cuisine, the new restaurant concept, and how it feels to be the first to introduce his country’s traditional cuisine to Vietnam in a 5-star restaurant.

Please describe South African cuisine as a whole.

What makes it unique and special? How many regional variations are there of this type of cuisine?

South African cuisine is influenced by mostly 11 cultures and ethnic groups, including French, Malaysian, Dutch, German, Indian, Chinese, British, Zulu, Xhosa, Sotho, and Afrikaans, which is my heritage. The specific qualities expressed in our food differs from city to city, and district to district, and each region's unique flavour profiles are determined by the usage of the specific spices incorporated within each dish. The core ingredients in a recipe may be similar, if not exactly the same, but the spices used to flavour it makes the taste unique to that particular region, depending on its territorial ethnic influence.

According to you, what's the difference between traditional South African cuisine and a modern take on the classics?

Well, traditional South African cuisine is a very homey and comforting food. It is prepared and consumed at all times, but mostly on weekends in a casual vibe, and the feast can last from late morning straight through to late night. We serve roasted meats and fresh and roasted vegetables, being traditional signature dishes such as boerewors (farmers sausage), bobotie casserole (a baked beef stew), biltong (air-dried beef) and chakalaka (a vegetable relish.) Very little green vegetables are incorporated into our diet, although that is changing as people are eating more healthy foods nowadays. What South African chefs have done is to take all those homey and familiar flavours and fuse them into creations with a modern twist on the original recipes. There's a big trend in South Africa for adapting all our traditional foods and ethnic variations, into contemporary cuisine. epicurevietnam 101

Carnivore’s restaurant concept seems reminiscent of an AYCE (All You Can Eat) Brazilian churrasco? Was that the main inspiration, and is grilled meat on skewers, sliced table side, common in South African food?

So, the meat preparation and grilling techniques are like that of Brazilian churrasco, but ours is uniquely South African as our focus is the presentation of Braai, which translates in my native tongue to barbeque. We implemented the look and feel of Brazilian churrasco in the meat presentation on long metal sword skewers, and the slicing of meat tableside by our passadors, as it projects an elegant and unique dining service. However, all the meat and speciality dishes are prepared in strictly South African style, with all dishes honouring the flavours and traditions of our country. 30 years ago, a restaurant named Carnivore opened in South Africa. The concept was to serve Braai dishes in churrasco and Rodizio style, and it was incredibly successful as South Africans are amongst the top three red meat consumers in the world. The founder of that restaurant was a German South African, who had been to Southern Brazil, seen and experienced what's called a churrasco dining experience and the Rodizio style of serving, and it inspired him to fuse this style of meat preparation and serving with our traditional Braai cuisine.

His concept was enormously successful. Carnivore Vietnam’s founder, not related to Carnivore South Africa, realised that it had the potential to do incredibly well in Vietnam. So, here we are today, 30 years later, and Carnivore Vietnam is born.

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Why Vietnam, and Ho Chi Minh City specifically, as opposed to Hanoi let’s say? What inspired you to relocate here and spearhead this project?

Our founder, a South African, has spent the past 22 years living in Saigon. He considers it his home, and with Vietnam so greatly praised across the globe as of recent for its phenomenal food, he decided it would be a great time to introduce and contribute our country’s flavours to Vietnam’s thriving culinary scene. When I was head-hunted to relocate to Saigon, develop the menu, and run the kitchen, I jumped on the opportunity. Although there are several South Africans producing traditional dishes in Vietnam,

they are mostly for take-away, delivery or online purchasing, but not served in a 5-star restaurant. So how often does one get the chance to be the very first to introduce a new type of food to a country in a 5-star restaurant within a grand and immaculately restored residential villa, smack in the centre of the vibrant and highly trendy culinary hub of Thao Dien? It’s pretty awesome!

As a chef, how important is local product sourcing to you? Do you prefer a farm to table approach for your cuisine? Working with imported ingredients? Or both?

So unfortunately, all the food that we need to prepare South African dishes cannot be sourced locally, not just flavour wise, but also quality wise. Farm to table is very, very important. So, we do have contracts with local farmers in Da Lat who supply all our fresh veggies. Our meat is either imported from Australia or New Zealand. So, the meat and some specific South African elements such as Nando’s sauces, maize porridge and spices which are specific to my home country, we must import. The rest are all sourced from local suppliers.

I hear you will be serving, and retailing high end South African wines as well at Carnivore?

Yes, unfortunately most of the South African wines currently imported to Vietnam are not the best South African wines. South African red wines in particular are globally very popular, but are sold at an extremely high price points, because the shipping and freight costs, plus import taxes and duties, are very high for wine coming from South Africa. South Africa is halfway around the world from here, as opposed to Australia, which is only a few days sailing away and enjoys highly preferential import duties due a Free Trade Agreement with Vietnam, so you see a lot of top-

end Australian wines readily available for purchase in Vietnam at affordable price points. As our restaurant is essentially a fine dining establishment, but with a refined yet relaxed African safari atmosphere, we realised the essential importance of pairing topend South African wines with our cuisine to match our restaurant's brand ethos and DNA. So, we are working with local importers and relevant government agencies to facilitate the import of fine South African wines at affordable prices to offer our diners, and then retailing those top-end South African wines that our guests have enjoyed during their dining experience.

If there is one quintessential ingredient which is always in your kitchen, and you could not produce your food without, what is it and why?

Oh… That’s easy… Salt, salt, salt, salt, salt, salt, and SALT!! Pink Himalayan salt is my preference, and I could not produce my speciality dishes without salt. There's nothing worse to me than under seasoned food. Salt is the most important spice in any pantry. You cannot have a kitchen and produce flavourful food without it. Seriously…

CARNIVORE 215B1 Nguyen Van Huong Street, Thao Dien Ward, Thu Duc City, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Website: www.carnivore.com.vn

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CUT ABOVE

New York City’s K-Town is bustling with traditional Korean barbecues, but executive chef David Shim goes against the grain with one-Michelinstarred Korean Steakhouse COTE.

BY DESTIN TAY

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hile David Shim might have started out heading soccer balls (he initially pursued a career as a professional soccer player in Brazil), he now heads the kitchen at COTE, surrounded by dry-aged meats and Shinpo grills. After a chance visit to the Culinary Institute of America – where observing students practicing knife cuts spoke to his competitive spirit – he enrolled and subsequently graduated in 2008, and continued his career with stints at Gramercy Tavern, L’atelier de Joël Robuchon, Veritas and Kristabelli.

The menu at COTE is equally inspired by Shim’s childhood of growing up in Seoul and his time in the New York City restaurant scene. Bolstered by owner Simon Kim’s vision, the Korean steakhouse posits itself not as a fusion establishment, but a marriage of two distinct, yet similar cultures. And while Korean barbecue and a classic American steakhouse are not synonymous, it is a formula that works – COTE received its Michelin star four months after opening in 2017, and have retained it ever since.

How did you and Kim meet?

I was introduced via a mutual friend, and Kim wanted me to lead his new passion project for a Korean steakhouse. He went through his entire master plan with me, a complete stranger, which did make me wary that he was some elaborate scam artist.

I rejected him twice as I was already a chef de cuisine at M. Wells Steakhouse, but he persisted. I saw how unwavering his vision was and realised he was legit, and I’ve never looked back since.

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PHOTOS GARY HE

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The Butcher’s Feast

How do you define a Korean steakhouse?

In New York, a city of diverse food cultures and top of the line restaurants, steak is king. We wanted to challenge that formula; while you will find many classic steakhouse appetisers like shrimp cocktails and wedge salad on our menu, we also use popular Korean steak cuts and serve our meats with kimchi and banchan. We wanted this to be a comfortable way to introduce Korean flavours to American diners. As such, our Butcher’s Feast tasting menu is our bestseller. Diners can enjoy the best of both worlds, sampling USDA prime hangar steaks, 45-day-aged ribeye, American Wagyu flatiron and a traditional shortrib Galbi.

Dry-aged beef is your calling card. What started this signature?

We noticed that a lot of steakhouses were using dry-aged beef from the butchers, and we wanted to stand out from the rest. We built our own dry-aging room and kick started the bacterial environment with bits of pre-dry-aged beef, and do it rather simply. But having our own dry-aging room allows us to experiment; we actually have a more than 110-day-aged option on the menu. The steak gets really gnarly and shrivelled, but it produces this deep and rich nuttiness, almost like an aged cheese. It’s one of our more popular cuts.

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Cote’s dry-aging room

What’s the secret behind the COTE ‘Secret’ Steak?

It’s actually a cut of American Wagyu chuck flap, a piece of boneless shortrib from the first three rib bones. Its Korean name is cotesal or flower steak due to the marbling, and it just made sense with the restaurant name. It has a beautiful natural flavour that shines when prepared on our Shinpo grills. The ceramic charcoal emits radiant heat with neutral smoke. There’s no flare ups or smell, which allows us to cook thicker cuts of beef without charring or burning the surface.

Violet Beauregarde: Tequila, Salers, blueberry and lime

What is it about barbecue that makes it so ubiquitous to food cultures?

Why do you think COTE’s concept has been so successful?

To me, fire is energy. It’s got this almost primal nature that ignites something primitive in all of us, cooking as our ancestors did. I think barbecue brings out memories for many of us; for me it’s roasting marshmallows by the fire, or the first time I smelt beef cooking over open flames. It also helps that it’s a very communal affair where people gather around to cook from the same grill and share their meats with everyone, creating an inviting vibe that will leave people happy. Our motto is ‘meat + fire + booze = smile’, and we intend to recreate that feeling for all of our guests.

Working in New York you get to learn many different cuisines, ingredients and techniques, and you start to see similarities within cuisines and culture, much like how barbecue is such a popular cooking technique. The fundamentals stay largely the same, like the preservation of vegetables and the aging of beef.

Once you get that, you can apply that to your cooking and take it anywhere you want. New York really allows you to do that. We are opening up shop in Miami next, and we think our motto will be a hit there too.

Dol-Sot Bibimbop

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CHEF MASTERCLASS

ITALIAN CHEFS' OBSESSION

When it comes to Italian chefs, their unwavering admiration for their mothers’ cooking is a topic that always takes center stage. In our quest to uncover the secret behind this uncommon obsession, we had the pleasure of meeting two culinary maestros: Marco Violano, the executive chef of Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta, and Lorenzo Sollecito, the executive pastry chef, at Alto Restaurant situated on the 20th floor of Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta. Our conversation revealed that Italian mothers are not just providers of nourishment for their children; they also instill the values of exceptional service, heartfelt hospitality, and the most crucial ingredient of all: cooking with love.

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What is the reason for Italian chefs’ obsession with their mother’s cooking?

Lorenzo: In Italy, we often refer it as “mammone,” which means they are deeply attached to their mothers. Spending time at home and sharing food is incredibly important to us. Naturally, in our families, it is usually the mother who takes care of these aspects. The dishes we bring from Italy or our childhood hold a special place in our hearts when everything is beautiful. For many chefs, their mother is the first real chef they learn from.

Mothers teach something that few chefs do, which is to cook with love. When you cook with love for your family, the results are even better.

Marco: It is true that Italians are considered “mammone” and are deeply attached to their mothers. In most cases, the mother is primarily a housewife. Even if she works, the responsibility of taking care of the house falls on her. In our generation, fathers rarely took part in housework. The male figure was not involved in cooking. This pattern is similar in many cultures, such as Chinese and Indonesian. Coming together at the table is one of the most important moments of the day, and food plays a significant role.

Did All Italians expect the mother to be a great cook?

Marco: If the food was not good or if my mother didn’t cook a satisfying meal, it would upset the entire family, especially my father. In my case, my father had high standards, and my mother wasn’t initially a good cook. However, my grandmother was an excellent cook! Over time, my mother had no other choice but

to improve. She started putting effort into cooking, whereas previously, she had helped out at my grandmother’s shop.

Eventually, my mother became one of the best chefs, at least in my eyes. My grandmother, from my mother’s side, was like a mentor. She didn’t want to lose face, if people are saying, “you didn’t teach your daughter how to cook!”

One of the things I learned most from her was making pasta.

In Italy, pasta is as essential as rice in other cultures. In the past, there were no pasta machines, so my mother would make it by hand. Can you imagine how big her arms are (laugh)? So, as a child, you’re scared and had to behave, or else you might get a hefty slap! epicurevietnam 109

How about your mother’s cooking, Lorenzo?

Lorenzo: For me, Strudel, definitely Apple Strudel holds a special place. Coming from North Italy (Trentino), we have a strong influence from German and Austrian food culture. So, I would say that Apple Strudel was one of the top dishes my mother used to make. Additionally, since her family were farmers, whenever they had apples that couldn’t be sold, they would bring them home.

The dishes at Alto definitely don’t seem like mom’s cooking. How do you capture the spirit of your mother’s cooking at Alto?

Marco: Well, I don’t think we replicate our mother’s dishes exactly at Alto. What we do take from our mother’s cooking is mainly the flavours and ingredient selection. We are very particular about these aspects, especially Lorenzo, who is extremely picky about both the products and the kitchen side.

Lorenzo: Yes, very picky! (laughs) Marco: Extremely picky! But we translate these elements into a modern context, especially nowadays, where visual presentation is also crucial. However, whenever we taste the food, it should remind us of the meals we had at home. That’s the essence we aim for—flavour, taste, and consistency that takes us back to our childhood when Mama was cooking.

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Lorenzo: For me, pastry has to be slightly more elaborate.

However, one thing I don’t do is Strudel because it would be quite disappointing for me, especially when compared to my mother’s, or my grandmother’s. What we bring here is primarily the love for the product and the love for pleasing our customers. Just like a mother who cooks for her husband and kids, we care for the customers. The mother is always the last one to eat, observing if everyone enjoyed their meal, even if she doesn’t talk. After many years, I understood, she was making sure everyone had something good. In a family situation or in our case, with our customers, there are expectations. If something is missing from the food, the mother knows, and likewise, we strive to meet our customers’ expectations.

We work a lot on telling a story because when you come to Alto, you expect something visually appealing. Italian pastries, not to say they are not pretty, are often simple and have a homely comfort food feel. What we do is bring out the history, story, and culture of Italian food. Italians excel at showcasing the history of our food culture. So, when I present a dessert, I think about how I can explain it to someone who may have grown up in Jakarta, for example. What is the story behind it? How was it consumed 60, 70, or even 100 years ago? That’s what I usually do when presenting a dessert.

Please suggest some menus in Alto that truly captivate this “mom’s cooking” spirit!

Marco: Since day one I joined Four Seasons Jakarta, one menu item that has remained a staple and truly captures the “mom’s cooking” spirit is the Bruschettona (larger-sized Bruschetta).

It’s a signature dish known worldwide! Additionally, our pasta selection deserves a highlight. As a pasta lover myself, I prefer it over main courses. I simply adore pasta, and you could serve me a thousand kilos of it! That’s why we take pride in our pasta.

All of our pasta, except for spaghetti which needs to be dry, is homemade. From tagliatelle and tagliolini to spaghetti alla chitarra and ravioli, they are all made in-house. We don’t source them from elsewhere, which sets us apart from other Italian restaurants. I highly recommend you try our Ravioli Al Tartufo!

Lorenzo: If I were to visit Alto, being an apple enthusiast myself, I would undoubtedly order the Angelina dessert, which is named after my grandmother. It’s a simple yet exquisite dish, somewhat similar to strudel but with its unique twist. We slowly cook the apples with raisins, cinnamon, vanilla, spices, and prepare a delectable custard. Topped with a delightful crumble, the dessert is then baked to perfection. It’s a comforting and classic dish that brings back fond memories. To complement it, we serve a side of ice cream, making it a timeless and delightful combination.

I wanted to bring a menu item that closely resembles the dishes I grew up enjoying at home. I didn’t want to challenge my mother’s expertise, as she would surely outshine me and dampen my confidence. Instead, I sought to offer something that reflects the traditional flavours and brings back childhood memories, all presented in a comforting and nostalgic plate, for example, our Modern Bicerin: slow-baked chocolate pudding, spice-infused rum, caramelized hazelnuts, cocoa sponge, double milk gelato, espresso, chocolate sauce epicurevietnam 111

Kevin Kwee

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EPICUREAN PROFILE

SETTING A NEW STANDARD IN POSTPARTUM CARE Kevin Kwee, co-founder of the prestigious Kai Suites, shares his vision for Singapore’s first confinement luxury hotel delivering a one-stop, holistic, specialised pre- and postpartum care programme.

BY PRIYANKA ELHENCE

Premium Suite

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t Kai Suites, Singapore’s first luxury hotel concept exclusive to mothers and their newborn, sensitivity, empathy and grace are the customer service cornerstones of the tranquil, relaxing environment set in a contemporary, Japanese-inspired interior. Occupying two floors are 18 elegantly appointed and fully-equipped private Deluxe Suites (from 23 sqm) and Premium Suites (from 32sqm), accessible only to staying guests and registered visitors, to ensure full privacy and comfort for the new mum, as rest and relaxation while bonding with baby are top priority.

“We’re taking a step back and going back to the fundamentals.

Although it is a luxury product, Kai Suites is about creating a great experience and delivering a great value proposition for the client. We’re focusing on what is most important to the new mother and evolving a product around her needs. It’s not rocket science. It’s the small things that make a difference and it’s all those small things put together that make a huge difference. I am blessed to have an amazing team of passionate individuals that come to work every day, to create those little magical moments that matter. Despite so many moving parts, everything and everyone at Kai Suites is interlinked,” says Kevin Kwee, co-founder of Kai Suites.

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FOUNDING PRINCIPLES

RANGE OF SERVICES

Kai embraces omotenashi, the Japanese concept of genuine, wholehearted hospitality, paying attention to the smallest of details and anticipating every need of the new mum to deliver an unforgettable experience. The mission of this luxury confinement hotel is educating, encouraging, motivating and empowering mothers in their journey of motherhood. In Japanese culture, ‘Kai’ symbolises the restoration and recovery that mothers need most after giving birth; while in Chinese culture it represents triumph, as child birthing is one of the most victorious moments in a lifetime.

“We have six pillars or six main core components - the product; customer experience; the value proposition for our customer; and the three stakeholders: the client, the investors, and the team that makes it all happen. This is definitely not a one-man show.

Our business is driven by a core team of highly motivated, likeminded individuals. We’re focused on the product, the customer and the value creation, a common goal which allows us a very consistent approach,” says Kwee.

Kai Suites’ services encompass the full spectrum of maternity care ranging from prenatal and postnatal education, to mother and baby care after birth, postnatal nourishment and nutrition, and body rejuvenation, by combining Asian cultural practices and traditions with modern science from the west. Kai Suites’ support system of specialists includes qualified and experienced nurses, a culinary team specialising in maternity cuisine, visiting TCM practitioners, and spa and aesthetics therapists at its new Spa & Aesthetics Centre, complete with state-of-the-art equipment that provides treatment for a comprehensive spectrum of postpartum issues.

An introductory rate of $25,000 for a 28-day programme in a Deluxe Suite includes accommodation for mother and spouse with full amenities, 24-hour care by experienced maternity nurses for mother and infant, as well as three nourishing Kai Cuisine meals and three snacks per day for the mother, including postpartum beverages. Mothers can also choose the Kai Suites Combo Experience, where after a minimum 14-day stay at Kai Suites, a visiting nurse comes home to care for mother and baby, along with

A Kai Cuisine set meal customised for week 4 nourishment

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Kai Cuisine meals for the mother for another fortnight. “We’re here to add value. This is not a holiday. It’s a vital opportunity to recover.

We want our mothers to rest and bond with their baby in the most comfortable way possible,” shares Kwee.

KAI CUISINE Kai Suite’s signature confinement Kai Cuisine restores the body and fortifies the spirit by combining TCM principles of healing, detoxification, restoration and nourishment; and postpartum dietary science with gastronomy, to ensure a full recovery. The talented in-house team of chefs use recipes sourced from dietary specialists through the generations, employing both Asian and Western cooking techniques. Menus are planned according to the mother’s childbirth method, the different phases and rate of postpartum recovery, the required amount of nutrition, as well as cultural background and preferences to give a sense of familiarity to these comfort dishes, and are adjusted after each weekly TCM consultation according to the mother’s rate of recovery and body condition.

Nursery

With Kai Cuisine being as pure, artisanal and wholesome as possible, there is no use of any added MSG or artificial additives, while natural sugars and umami are extolled from the ingredients themselves. The best, natural herbs are used, such as black dates instead of the usual red variety, and sulphur-free ‘dang gui’ or angelica root. Much care is also given to minimalise or completely avoid the use of ingredients that may eventually cause gas or colic in the baby.

Additionally, most of the stocks, sauces, seasonings, and condiments are made in-house in small batches from scratch, including wheat noodles, infused oils and syrups, oyster sauce, tomato sauce, Hakka yellow wine, red lees paste, chicken essence, kaya and fruit jams. In addition, stringent efforts are made to avoid the use of aluminium foil and cookware, as well as plastic containers and similar items that may pose harmful health effects.

ADDING VALUE Kai Cuisine is also available as food delivery (from $3,500 for a 28-day programme). “Currently we have about 10-15 food delivery orders on a daily basis. Some are for clients who have already checked out and want to continue the nourishment at home; some are for people who have undergone surgery; and some are just for people who want to eat something healthier for dinner every day.

That doesn’t mean that we are becoming a food delivery company.

Rather, we will do as much as we can because of our core value of helping people and providing value to our clients.”

Kwee goes on to say that the difference between Kai Suites and the multitude of other regional postpartum centres comes down to Singapore’s high quality standards, stringent laws and regulations. “Take our location for instance. This three-storied building was originally occupied by the Singapore Family Planning and Population Board, so it’s apt that this heritage building is Kai Suites today.”

“Typical five-star hotels have a service-to-guest ratio of 0.8 to 1.2 per client. We have two people per client, and when we are fully booked, that goes up to approximately 3.2,” says Kwee. “Most of the news on a confinement forum is often bad news. But it needn’t be anymore. Our strategy is to set the gold standard for our services, impart knowledge with local Singaporeans and to get local talent to do the job,” he says. “Another of our USPs is our 15-key mindset, our attention to detail, and our proactiveness in creating genuine support groups and communities, especially for first-time parents.

Mums have their own bonding session, and for fathers, we organise small things such as little surprise breakfasts to chat over a nice meal. These are not big things, nor are they expensive. But these small touches go an extremely long way. This is where I get the most valuable feedback from; this is where I get my inspiration,” says Kwee.

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EPICUREAN PROFILE

AT BAR WITH

THE PIANIST

The Piano Man makes his return to his first love – jazz and music – following an illustrious career in property.

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he crowd is loud tonight but once the opening strains of ‘Tenderly’, a popular jazz standard, begins playing, conversations hush into whispers then into complete silence as Japanese jazz pianist Aya Sekine’s fingers dance across ivory keys. Needless to say, the crowd is in complete awe at the performance before them.

This is Maduro, a jazz bar in Dempsey Hill. While other jazz bars are lounges for people to have a drink and meet up with friends while jazz plays in the background, Maduro is different. It is jazz first, then bar second. “Music takes precedence here,” says Peter Ng, the owner of Maduro, the one who brought his vision of a good ol’ jazz bar to life, and then man I have the honour of meeting tonight.

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If the name Peter Ng rings a bell, it should. You might know Peter from when he was a pianist in the 1970s and 1980s, playing at the glamorous Tiara Supper Club in Shangri-La Hotel and the Westin’s Palm Grill, alongside jazz songbirds Frances Yip and Anita Sarawak. Or, you might know him as Peter the realtor, who made a name for himself first selling shophouses all over Singapore, then properties all over the world.

To many, Peter is a whiz in music and real estate, and few can see the connection between both. But Peter thinks otherwise.

“There is a lot of learning to do on the job for both, but you make observations and then you get there.” With jazz music, he recollects how, as his career as a pianist started, there were no schools teaching jazz improvisations, which in itself is quite an impossible subject to teach. “You have to be familiar with your jazz standards first. Once you’re familiar with them, then you listen and learn to experiment while you’re on stage.”

It was the same for when he decided to move into real estate.

Peter made the switch, as he needed a job that was a little more stable. He found a niche in selling shophouses, which formed the nucleus for the properties he was selling. Thereafter, through studying and being familiar with the real estate market and the cycles it went through, he decided to move to London, as the opportunities there were better.

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I tell Peter that it seems like with real estate and jazz, he has a gift of intuition. Peter takes it one step further and says it is like watching jazz performers improvise on stage. Good ones look and sound like they have rehearsed their playing countless of times but very few actually do so. Instead, looks and subtle signals are shared among the players, each one giving cues as to when they would take centre stage, or when others should back off so someone else can have a turn.

Just like how he improvised with jazz standards, he learned to home in on potential in properties. “Creativity comes into play [for both], but it definitely helped in my real estate business,” he says. Peter then shares of how when it came to Hong Kong’s JIA, which he helped to broker the sale of, he was asked what to do with the property. At first, he had suggested turning it into serviced apartments, then he saw that an opportunity for the building to be a boutique hotel could be bigger. He knew Philippe Starck and roped him in to design the hotel. “Flexibility and being open to what can be done, such as with changing the function of the building, is what made me different from the others.”

It is this flexibility that led him to start Maduro. He was given the opportunity to take over this Dempsey Hill residence in 2019. Inspired by the private clubs associated with the luxury lifestyle he lives in London, he wanted to do the same for this space in Singapore. The meeting space evolved into a lounge to include drinks. His instincts as a musician kicked in, and he thought that adding an element of a listening lounge would be more suitable instead.

A Kai Cuisine set meal customised for week 4 nourishment

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Interestingly, he didn’t want Maduro to be a jazz bar at first, but a jam session changed all that. The local jazz bar scene was dwindling, and many musicians could not find a place to play jazz.

But on that one faithful night, jazz musicians turned up in droves, having heard about the jam session through word of mouth. In attendance were big names in jazz, like Jacintha Abisheganaden, Jeremy Monteiro and Joanna Dong.

That night was a turning point for Maduro, although Peter did have some doubts. “The jam session was excellent for the musicians but then I had to ask, ‘what would our audience want’?

Not many people fully understand jazz, but when we add a singer, it gives the performance different dynamics that people can relate to. We made sure to get good artistes to come and then very quickly, we started to get known internationally among jazz players and jazz listeners.”

In the few months since Maduro’s opening, the jazz bar has seen all sorts of musicians walk through its doors and play sets. From internationally renowned musicians, to students of jazz taking the stage for the first time to improvise, Maduro has become a haven for them. “Jazz musicians are always looking for a place to play after their gig. I have had many of them thank me for opening up Maduro. I am just glad I have been able to give them this space.”

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EPICUREAN PROFILE

CHEERS TO THAT

The World’s 50 Best Bars will be revealed in Singapore on 17 October 2023. As excitement builds towards the big event, we catch up with Mark Sansom, Content Director for 50 Best Bars, and discover why Asia is the next cocktail hotspot.

BY ASTRID YOUNG

Can you tell us about your role as Content Director for 50 Best Bars entails?

I’ve been with the 50 Best team since 2019. As Content Director, I am responsible for all content output from The World’s 50 Best Bars and The World’s 50 Best Hotels brands, which includes the websites and the lists we produce.

What’s more, I put together the team of Academy Chairs who select our voters and am the point of liaison for bartenders and hoteliers all over the world.

Since this is the awards’ first foray outside of Europe, can you tell us why it’s traveling to Asia and specifically, why Singapore? Also – why now?

The World’s 50 Best Bars was founded in 2009 and up until last year, it had been held in London. In 2022, we decided to take the show on the road and held the event in Barcelona, Spain, in order to shine the spotlight on another awesome cocktail city.

In the last decade, the reputation of the cocktail scene in Asia has grown exponentially, with eight bars placed on the 1-50 list and 14 on the 51-100 list in 2022. The continent continues to amaze us with its diversity and dynamism in churning out noteworthy, world-class bars. We believe this is just the beginning of what we will see from the bar industry and are super excited to place a spotlight on what this region has to offer.

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As for Singapore, it is well-recognized as a leading force and epicenter for the cocktail industry in Asia. The city showed us great hospitality in the consecutive years when Asia’s 50 Best Bars awards (2018 to 2019) was hosted there. So when it came to selecting a location for The World’s 50 Best Bars awards’ first foray into Asia, it was a very natural and unanimous choice for our team.

What has caught your attention about Asia’s cocktail scene in the past few years? What do you think the future has in store for the region, particularly in the evolution of cocktails and the industry?

The trajectory of the cocktail scene in Asia has caught not just mine, but the world’s attention.

In the last decade, the number and quality of cocktail bars that have been introduced to the scene is astounding, and this is despite the pandemic slowdown. Ten years ago, the bar scene in Asia was mainly led by bar experts who have travelled across the globe to explore new opportunities in Asia.

Today, we are seeing a new generation of homegrown bar talents come into their own, and they are now taking the lead in pushing the industry forward. This is just the beginning of a new era for Asia, and I am so excited to see what next stage of growth is for the region.

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Asia has such a unique drinking heritage with so many different styles of spirits finding their genesis here. We are only just scratching the surface of what a cocktail destination Asia has, and will, become.

What do you think the arrival of the awards ceremony will do for the region’s cocktail industry?

One of 50 Best’s primary goals has always been to place the spotlight on deserving and emerging regions of gastronomy and fine drinking, and leading consumers to discover the best (and sometimes underrated) food and drink destinations around the world.

We believe the arrival of The World’s 50 Best Bars awards ceremony on 17 October in Singapore will not just propel the region’s cocktail scene forward, the buzz around the awards will also translate into excitement for global imbibers, placing Asia as a must-visit hotspot for cocktail exploration.

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Can you tell us more about the recently added Bareksten Best Bar Design award? In your opinion, how design impact the overall drinking experience?

The Bareksten Best Bar Design Award is a brand-new award that celebrates the very best in bar design. The award is judged by an esteemed panel of six hospitality design experts, and bars from anywhere in the world can submit their venues for consideration. Each entry will be judged on six key pillars: Innovation, aesthetics, accessibility, ergonomics, ecological compatibility, and emotional quotient.

Design is such an important part of the overall drinking experience. We all drink with our eyes first, so how a bar looks usually sets the tone from the moment a guest steps in. Beyond what we can see, there are also many design intricacies that may not be noticeable to the untrained eye. However, these intricacies are carefully considered to marry form and functionality for the

best bar experience, ensuring both the comfort of the guests and the ease of hospitality.

With the Bareksten Best Bar Design Award, we also want to go deeper than a bar’s look and feel. The criteria sets out principles of accessibility, ergonomics, and considerate design for all guests.

We will also look at how the bar interacts with its environment and how sustainably its materials are applied.

What do you look for in a drink and what is your go-to cocktail?

I think that for a drink to be considered ‘good’, it has to use very high-quality ice. The ice used is probably the most important thing about a drink to me, particularly at the 50 Best level. As for my go-to cocktail, it’s either a Martini or a Negroni, depending on the mood I’m in. I’ll look for how considerately the drink has been made, which you can absolutely taste from the first sip.

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W I N E K N OW L E D G E

HARVESTING INVESTMENTS WITH FINE WINES AND CHAMPAGNE More are turning to fine wines and champagnes as a low-risk, low-volatility investment portfolio.

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ine investment made big news last year, when the performance of Burgundy wines grew by more than 30 percent, outperforming even blue chip stocks. Here in Southeast Asia, investors are waking up to the potential of fine wine. Perhaps no better indication of wine’s investment potential in Singapore is the opening of UK-based wine investment firm, Cult Wines last year.

Here’s a question though: How safe is it to invest in wine?

“Very safe,”says Sam Mudie, General Manager, Cult Wines.

“Wine is a good investment. People normally look at ROI when investing. Fine wine has a demonstrable ratio of plus and minus 10 per annum. You can generally see a compound annual growth of between 9 to 14, 15 percent,” he says.

Mudie says there’s low risk in investing in the wine market.

“There is low volatility, low standard deviation. It offers reasonable return, long term stability, and tax efficiency (something that’s not quite relevant in Singapore). To be able to invest in something that is free from income tax, free from capital gains tax, it’s generally a very good market to be involved in.”

Let’s also not discount the fact that it’s something that people will have fun doing, he says. “So if you tick all the investment boxes, and have a more holistic lifestyle side to the investment as well, then it’s a bonus unique to passion items such as wine or cars.”

And contrary to what many people think, you don’t even need to know anything about wine to make a good investment in it. It’s practically a case of, “I need your name and money and we take care of the rest,” says Ivy Lim, investment manager, Cult Wines, half-jokingly.

Though maybe not. “It’s true to a certain extent,” says Mudie. “We are a wine advisor. We are set up to cater to absolute newcomers. All we really need to do is understand what they need: objectives, time frame, risk profile, budget – then we can take over completely from there. We look after the full logistics of it.

“If someone approaches us, with zero investment knowledge and wine knowledge, they can have just as successful an investment as someone who comes to us with a lot of knowledge of wine. We remain in control of our client’s portfolio and steer them in the right direction.”

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INITIAL INVESTMENT

How much investment would be agood start? Surprisingly, not much.“We are talking minimum of £25,000 but realistically, to get a good perspective, it would be £50,000 to £100,000,” says Mudie.

Experts say that there are several ways to invest in wine.

One option is to buy and resell individual bottles or cases of particular vintages. Another option is to buy shares in a fund of wine investments. As Mudie says, the type of portfolio you might form would be based on your budget, investment commitment and your appetite for risk.

Firms like Cult Wines can help manage your portfolio for you.

The firm will practically do the investing for you. The firm will buy, hold, or sell your assets after one to three years. And it’s not like your money would be tied into it permanently. There’s an option to liquidate your portfolio in six to eight weeks should you need the money urgently.

What’s great about wine investment firms like Cult Wines is that they’ll examine your portfolio on a daily basis to take advantage of sudden shifts in the market.

WHAT TO INVEST IN

It seems intuitive that red wines, like Bordeaux and Burgundy, will make good investments, because they age well and so there’s not much fluctuation in the market. Top of the line of course would be first- growth wines – the premier crus. This will include Haut-Brion, Lafite-Rothschild, Latour, Margaux and Mouton Rothschild. These chateaux may have secondary labels that would not be as valuable but could prove to be profitable as well. epicurevietnam 125

W I N E K N OW L E D G E

THE BEST WINE YOU’VE NEVER TASTED

What’s old is new again. Epicure Vietnam gets up close with the renaissance taking place in Garnacha’s original homeland of Northern Spain and neighbouring Roussillon, where the grape reaches its highest potential.

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he highest point of my Garnacha/Grenache trip, literally, is about 900m above sea level, where it’s not the altitude that takes my breath away but the sight of majestic bush vines on sandy, stony soils. Naturally surrounded by juniper trees, holm oaks, pines and other native vegetation, are squat, thick-stumped Garnacha vines planted in 1913, now part of the 3.25 hectare La Centenera plot that makes a wine called Las Luces from Las Moradas de San Martín.

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The late autumn day is fiercely sunny and wind-whipped at the same time, but head winemaker Isabel Galindo is completely in her element as she points out how these vines are pruned and maintained, a labour of passion when its yield is so low that most winemakers would prefer to rip them out and plant highyielding new vines. A tasting of Las Luces shortly after cements my impression of this sophisticated, mineral rich wine, delivering power yet alluring black cherry and balsamic notes on the palate.

ROOTED IN GENEROSITY

Once one of the most prolific reds in Spain and the world, Garnacha is said to have originated in Spain’s northeast, an area now known as Aragón. Its ability to produce juicy fruity wine with moderate tannins and in high yield made it popular for affordable, everyday wine, and versatile for blending with other wines. It is also drought and disease resistant, an important factor in poor rainfall areas.

Known as Grenache Noir in France, it is best known in the Rhône Valley where it tames the more tannic, spicy Syrah, and similarly in South Australia where old vines can still be found and often paired with Shiraz. Yet, lesser known but equally prime vines in the Roussillon are one of the region’s best kept secrets. Garnacha’s ubiquity caused it to be uprooted in Spain as part of an effort to reduce Europe’s wine surplus, starting in the 1990s. However, renewed interest in making higher quality wine from older vines started in Priorat, and now throughout important European Union (EU) Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) regions such as DO Carinena, DO Campo de Borja and DO Calatayud.

The ‘trendiest’ area appears to be in the Sierra de Gredos mountain region, west of Madrid, where I visited Las Moradas de San Martín (DO Vinos de Madrid) and the character of “new Gredos” was born – elegant, balanced wines that are fine and delicate in the style of Burgundy. Winemaker Galindo is convinced that her wines’ stability is due to the synergy of low yield, sandy soil and high natural acidity acting as natural preservatives – thereby reducing the need to add sulphites. Like many other top producers, they are using only hand harvest, no chemicals or additives, spontaneous yeast and a variety of French and Hungarian oak to coax out Garnacha’s more hidden characters.

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ON THE OTHER SIDE

In the beautiful region of Roussillon north of the national border from Spin, Grenache covers about 30% of the wine acreage and is found in variations including Noir, Gris and Blanc. The winegrowing area is bounded on three sides by mountain ranges, creating an amphitheatre that opens to the Mediterranean Sea. Vin Doux Naturels (VDN) or fortified sweet wine dominates, making up 80% of the national production hence you’ll find 5 PDOs and different varietals including Grenache, Macabeu, Malvoisie du Roussillon and Muscats. In the 9 PDOs for dry wine, red varieties are favoured – the Carignan equally as important as Grenache, alongside Cinsault and Mouvèdre.

It’s easy to see the Spanish influence in this region, which didn’t become part of France until the 17th century. There is a cosy community of 25 cooperative cellars and 380 private/family winemakers spread out across a pastiche of micro-terroirs. It’s worth noting that Domaine du Clos de Fées paved the way in 1998 for a modern, enigmatic cult wine, when sommelier-journalist turned winemaker Hervé Bizeul audaciously defined the style that would command prices formerly unheard of in this region.

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WINERY HIGHLIGHTS

Some, like Mas Amiel and Maison Cazes, are storied houses with memorable offerings for tourism. 200-year-old Mas Amiel, one of the most famous producers in Maury, offers picnics, sunset aperitifs, and sweet wine tastings with cheese or chocolate, but the real stars are its fortified oxidised wines that are first aged for in 1,000 glass demijohns, dramatically arrayed outside the winery. Subsequently the wines go into 350-hectolitre oak casks for 20, 30 and 40 years that get progressively more complex with bitter almond and spice notes. (Distributed by Vintage Club in Singapore) At Maison Cazes, an excellent restaurant, La Table d’Aimé, threatens to overshadow the small glimpse of oak barrels cellared onsite. Established in 1895 and in the hands of the 4th generation Emmanuel Cazes today, the 220-hectare domaine was one of the first in the region to be organic and biodynamic certified. Their dry reds like Le Credo (Grenache dominant) and Alter (Syrah dominant) are fresh and well-balanced, while the precious VDN are aged in very old barrels that Emmanuel describes as “completely confit by the wine” over the years, giving a signature elegance. A new project, the 90-hectare Les Clos de Pauliles receives more sea and mineral influences and will be worth tracking in following years.

Chateau de L’Ou is a well-kept secret no longer, thanks to its uncompromising pursuit of quality. Séverine and Philippe Bourrier farm their estate organically, with the word l’ou being Catalan for egg after the egg-shaped well on the property. While Syrah is a bigger project for them, their Grenache Rhapsody is made in an integrated vinification, in the same virgin 500L barrel from start to finish, including 5 week maceration with manual punchdown, then emptied and pressed before the cooper comes onsite to seal the barrels. (Distributed by Terroir Wines in Singapore).

A surprise awaits at the outstanding boutique Domaine Gardiés in the village of Vingrau, at the foothills of the Pyrenees.

Jean Gardiés took over family vines in the 1990s and has been winning rave reviews for his structured, precise winemaking with a lingering impression of the terroir: black schists from Espira Agly and clay-limestone from Vingrau. The Clos des Vignes Rouge is 70% Grenache-Carignan from their oldest 100-year-old vines, and is traditionally macerated in concrete tanks before ageing 12 months in 600L barrels. Jean’s meticulousness extends to premium handmade glassware for the tasting.

Grenache/Garnacha’s old vine revival has prompted its rising star status overseas, which is helping it shed its former value wine reputation while catapulting into a category of sophisticated wines worth seeking out. What’s old can indeed be new again. epicurevietnam 129

W I N E K N OW L E D G E

CREATE REMARKABLE PAIRINGS BETWEEN LEMON AND KRUG CHAMPAGNES Each year the House of Krug invites Krug Ambassade chefs to tap into their creative talents around a single ingredient. After selecting the lemon for 2023, Krug invited 12 chefs and Krug Cellar Master Julie Cavil on an inspiring culinary journey in Brazil. In this country that produces over 200 varieties of lemons, the chefs unleashed their imaginations to propose dishes that pair perfectly with a glass of Krug Grande Cuvée 117ème Édition or Krug Rosé 27ème Édition.

F

or three days, the culinary artists immersed themselves in the myriad incarnations of lemon in every shape, savor and color. The scent of the trees, the smell of the leaves and the different tastes of the zests all offered sources of inspiration for chefs from 11 different countries. Jacob de Neergaard, Stefan Fäth, Pierre Chomet, Paolo Lavezzini, Vicky Cheng, Kenta Kayama, Kihak Lim, Kenjiro Hashida, Nina Compton, Rafa Zafra, Justin Cogley and Theo Clench compared their gustatory memories and forged new bonds thanks to fresh experiences.

Brazilian researchers at the Sao Paulo Citrus Center shared their own experiences with lemon preservation. Just as Krug vineyard plots are considered individual ingredients, different lemon varieties are all distinctive. Meyer lemon, Cravo lemon, Sicilian lemon, Tahiti lime, Harvey lemon, Eureka lemon, Buddha’s hand and other varieties all offer new sensorial discoveries. Cellar Master Julie Cavil and the chefs also accompanied the local producers. Whether a single ingredient is a wine from a unique vineyard plot in Champagne or a lemon from São Paulo, the House of Krug and the Chefs share a profound respect for terroirs, as well as the women and men who cultivate them. Mouthwatering and acidic, nutritious and surprisingly complex, lemon is a key component of almost every fundamental recipe.

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After this three-day adventure, Julie Cavil and the chefs had gained an even deeper appreciation of their Single Ingredient as the chefs created delectably unexpected recipes to complement the flavors and aromas of Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème Édition or Krug Rosé 27ème Édition. The zingy character and electric energy of the lemon bring tension and balance to a Krug pairing.

In addition to this Brazilian journey, Krug also invited its global community of 112 Krug Ambassade chefs from 25 countries to share their creativity around the fruit, resulting in the publication of a collection of original recipes that celebrate lemon. Entitled ‘The Zest is Yet to Come’, the cookbook reveals the remarkable possibilities of unbridled creativity.

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W I N E K N OW L E D G E

THE HOUSE OF LIQUID GOLD

In the Sauternes region south of Bordeaux, the Lalique Hotel & Restaurant has opened its doors at Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey – the world’s first luxury hotel located within a first-growth terroir.

I

t’s the colour of liquid gold and made from Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes. Sauternes is the most challenging, costly and labour-intensive wine in all of Bordeaux to produce.

As the grapes used for sweet white Bordeaux wine must be attacked by botrytis cinerea, better known as noble rot (the area’s micro-climate being conducive for the fungus to develop), the vines can take weeks to pick since the pickers sometimes need to pluck the berries one at a time. The yields of the Sauternes region are extremely low, making for its rarity, as the winemakers there have focused on wine quality, whilst others concentrated on volume.

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Although the Sauternes appellation is the smallest of Bordeaux, it boasts 12 first growths (Premiers Grands Crus Classés) — the greatest concentration of first growths — compared to just five among the Médoc’s red wines, according to the 1855 Bordeaux Classification ranking wines based on their commercial value and quality. Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey was included in this list.

Thomas Jefferson, the third U.S. president, who visited Bordeaux in the 18th century, was a fan. King Alfonso XII of Spain, who had declared Lafaurie-Peyraguey to be his favorite wine, bought a barrel of the 1858 first growth for 6,000 gold francs.

In the 19th century, Sauternes was incredibly popular and prestigious, but since then, it has fallen out of favor. The oldfashioned belief that this high-sugar, liquor-like wine is for senior citizens to enjoy with foie gras at Christmastime is one that Sauternes now wishes to dispel.

Mr. Silvio Denz, a Swiss businessman in the perfume and wine trades, is keen to restore and rejuvenate the image of this luxury product among today’s wine drinkers, his objective being to continue the work begun in 1618 and to honor the vision of Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey’s successive owners spanning four centuries so that this French art de vivre will shine once again.

He has been actively calling for more facilities to entice tourists to the Sauternes area.

After acquiring French brand Lalique in 2008 and Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey in 2014, he opened the estate to the public for the first time last year on the occasion of its 400th anniversary, together with the new Lalique Hotel & Restaurant to attract wine tourists in search of a luxury Bordeaux experience. A peaceful, discreet retreat set on high ground in the tranquil village of Bommes amidst the vineyards of Sauternes, it is the first time an 1855 first-growth terroir has housed a luxury hotel.

Within months of opening, it was accredited as a member of the Relais & Châteaux collection, granted a five-star rating and one Michelin star for its restaurant.

Today, it is the sole luxury hotel in the South Gironde department, and the first and only Michelin-starred restaurant in the Sauternes region. It is also the third Lalique hotel in France, following Villa René Lalique that opened in 2015 and Château Hochberg in 2016, both located in Alsace.

Since 2014, upon Mr. Denz’s initiative, the château has produced two dry white wines for those with less sweet tastes: Le Grand Blanc Sec de Lafaurie-Peyraguey and Le Lys de LafauriePeyraguey. Annual production has decreased because Mr. Denz wanted to use only the most qualitative parcels, and remains stable at 40,000 bottles.

Mr. David Bolzan, Managing Director of Vignobles Silvio Denz, says, “This is what we strive to create at Lafaurie-Peyraguey: a lifestyle product in a unique setting. It started with the engraved wine bottle (featuring the Woman and Grapes motif created by René Lalique in 1928). Lafaurie-Peyraguey will be the first brand to modernize this great wine to make you want to consume it.”

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Lady Tina Green and Pietro Mingarelli were commissioned to design the Lalique Hotel & Restaurant, offering three guest suites and 10 rooms, some structured with exposed wooden beams. The designers behind the Lalique Maison collection of furniture and accessories were inspired by the beauty of the location.

Every element speaks of a synergy between wine and crystal. Upon entry, one is struck by a large crystal panel depicting birds amidst the grapevines, while in the cosy lounge, the eye is immediately drawn to the bar filled with decanters created by Lalique in partnership with spirits companies such as The Macallan (whisky), Hardy (cognac), Beluga (vodka) and Patrón (tequila).

The first suite features a Lalique Champs-Elysées chandelier depicting the leaves of plane trees lining the world’s most beautiful avenue suspended from a high ceiling; the second in the medieval tower offers guests a reading room; and the third is a duplex with views of the ancient gatehouse and its 13thcentury foundation walls.

“René Lalique was born in the Champagne region and came from wine culture, so he was very familiar with this world,” Mr. Bolzan explains. “He was known as a creator and was passionate about three things: women, fauna and flora. During his art deco period, especially in the late 1920s, he was inspired by the area and many of his best-known designs feature grapes.”

Showcasing René Lalique’s passion for vines, grapes and wine, Lalique crystal plaques bearing grape cluster designs are set into bed frames, chests of drawers, bedside tables, bookshelves, fireplaces, mirrors and sofas. They are even embroidered onto bath towels and engraved on tap handles.

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The green and deep red tones of the furniture and fabrics recall the colors of the vineyards and wines. Windows frame the surrounding countryside, making for extraordinary views.

There’s also a library housing a large selection of Lalique vases and panther sculptures and books on the pairing of French savoir-faire and savoir-vivre: the history of Sauternes and Bordeaux wines, the vineyards, René Lalique and his works.

“Each piece of furniture has been made bespoke and with color inspiration taken from the surrounding vineyards — earthy tones combined with red and gold — lit up with crystal and an unwavering attention to detail and a sensitivity to the original building,” notes Mr. Bolzan. “Original features such as beams, shutters and individual nooks in the rooms have been enhanced and retained to give a timeless elegance.”

A chapel lies at the heart of the estate, as Baron Nicolas Pierre de Pichard, who owned the château from 1746 to 1794, had a reproduction of the 1491 baptistery from his baptismal church in Bordeaux built there. It now features historic and contemporary Lalique pieces, paying homage to René Lalique’s ecclesiastical works, and can be used for private or religious ceremonies such as weddings and baptisms. Above a red-and-black marble altar designed by Mingarelli are stained-glass windows decorated with the image of blackbirds and grapes and the crystal Eternal Belief cross by Damien Hirst inlaid with colored pills.

The 40-seat restaurant features a contemporary, light-filled extension with floor-to-ceiling glass windows — perfect for watching the sunset over the vineyards — built by renowned Swiss architect Mario Botta, who ensured it remained true to the spirit of the historic building. The ceiling is adorned with 120 Champs-Elysées leaves in shiny gold crystal echoing the color of Sauternes wines, and on the table are Christofle napkin rings encrusted with grape-patterned crystal, Fürstenberg porcelain plates, Hirondelles crystal knife-holders in the shape of a swallow and bespoke wine bottles engraved with the Woman and Grapes design laid out as welcome plates.

Here, French chef Jérôme Schilling — former executive chef of the two-Michelin-starred Villa René Lalique restaurant — leads a brigade of 10, including pastry chef Stéphane Corolleur.

The gastronomic experience is not just about pairing Sauternes

wines with the dishes, but incorporating the winemaking process into the cuisine. Take for example Schilling’s foie gras marinated in squid ink and poached in Sauternes at 72 degrees Celsius, served in a delicate clay shell printed with René Lalique motifs — a technique taken from the Lalique factory in Alsace — or turbot steamed between two barrel staves that spent months being used to mature Sauternes.

Visitors may visit the four underground cellars, home to a remarkable ensemble of 350,000 bottles, as well as the vat house and wine boutique with daily tours and tastings. A vertical selection of Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey’s top wine from 1985 to 2015 that has never left the estate is available, as well as wines from Mr. Denz’s other vineyards.

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V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

SHE’S A SHARPSHOOTER Former national shooter-turned-winemaker, Mathilde Chapoutier takes aim at modern millennials, food-friendly wines, and more.

BY JUNE LEE

T

he holdings of M. Chapoutier is so vast it would take a book or more to cover all of its activities. Much ink has been spilled on the formidable Michel Chapoutier, who took over the domaine in 1990 by buying out his siblingsʼ share of the business. Michel, then 26, went on to achieve far greater success for the business than the family had before. His moniker these days? King of the Rhone, and The Man with the Most Parker 100-points in the World.

His daughter Mathilde – who is coincidentally 26 turning 27 this year – is in Singapore to do a whirlwind publicity tour. The petite and reserved brunette is rapidly catching up to her destiny as the eight generation of the family to lead the firm. Her mother Corinne and brother Maxime are also variously involved in the company.

AN ADVENTUROUS STREAK Though she grew up in Ardeche among the vineyards, always helping out with pruning, harvesting and tasting, Mathilde initially had no intention of joining the company. She was a prodigious shooter, starting out at age 10 at the gun shooting range and spending years pursuing medals for the French national team.

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Her independent streak led her to pursue her degree and learn Mandarin in Beijing, which is where her father cannily nudged her in the door – he offered her the role as the brand’s China/ Asia ambassador. It suited her perfectly as she could run things autonomously, away from parental supervision.

Surprised that she enjoyed her stint, she joined the company full-time in 2015 as business development director, in charge of the group’s subsidiaries and overseeing expansion. “We have been buying a beautiful organic vineyard in Ribera Del Duero (Dominio Del Soto), a very nice property in Provence (Château des Ferrages) and also an old family house in Beaujolais (Maison Trenel). We’re looking at converting these estates to organic/biodynamics and making sure they produce the best wines possible. It’s always a fantastic adventure to work on new terroirs, new grapes, for me and for all our teams,” she explains. Combining these different responsibilities, she also assumed the role of sales director in 2017. “I’m the first woman to head the family business, but Maison Chapoutier employs almost as many women as men. In the top management, it’s mainly women. That happened pretty naturally and no one seems to complain so it must be working efficiently,” she grins.

IN RHONE M. CHAPOUTIER SAINT PERAY LA MUSE DE RW SPARKLING 2012 Grapes: 100% Marsanne Taste: A fine bubbly made from Marsanne, with 3 years bottle ageing for its notes of hazelnuts, honeysuckle and acacia honey. RW is an homage to composer Richard Wagner, and this rare Marsanne sparkling does sing with a freshness and acidic tension. $71

M. CHAPOUTIER CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE LA BERNADINE ROUGE 2015 Grapes: 60% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% other varieties Taste: For lovers of the appellation, this spicy licorice and bold cherry CDP is a hallmark. Fermentation at high temperature extracts the deep colour and tannin structure, though its balance means the 14.5% ABV feels smooth and approachable. $91

M. CHAPOUTIER ERMITAGE LE PAVILLON ROUGE 2012 Grapes: 100% Syrah Taste: Low yielding 100-yearold vines from this fabled single vineyard produces an impeccable 100-pointer stunner. Tar and smoke on the nose, with concentrated red fruit with lingering cocoa and licorice. Age as long as 60 to 80 years, though its finesse is approachable now. $700 Available from Culina (culina.com.sg)

Across their 344 hectares cultivated organically, of which 315 are biodynamic, the wines are allowed to faithfully represent the terroir, even if that means the flavours vary from year to year.

“We believe a good wine is made in the vineyard, not the cellar,” Mathilde explains. In terms of house style, they pay attention to the time of picking, to ensure the right level of ripeness, which is typically complemented by using a lower ratio of new oak. Another tack is looking at less obvious grapes, such as her personal favourites Marsanne and Grenache. In terms of wine, she sees that young drinkers are drinking less but demanding more quality, with an emphasis on enjoying wine with food - a bistronomic approach.

“My typical day would consist of arriving early at the office, going through all the emails from my teams and then meeting with both the production and sales team to ensure all goes smoothly.

I’m between the head office and the winery while also welcoming clients to our home of Tain l’Hermitage,” she rattles off.

Does she ever feel overwhelmed sometimes, with a team of 90+ staff under her? Mathilde pauses to consider before confidently shooting back, “I was born to pressure. I just deal with it.”

IN AUSTRALIA rouge red

MATHILDA VIOGNIER MARSANNE

DOMAINE TOURNON – M. CHAPOUTIER PYRENEES-VICTORIA LANDSBOROUGH GRENACHE 2015 Grape variety Le cépage Grenache.

Grenache.

Le terroir Grapes: GrenacheTerroir A mixture of clay, siltstone, quartz and shale.

Le sol est composé d’un mélange d’un sol vierge rouge, de schiste, de quartz et d’argile.

Taste: In the Victorian Harvest Les vendanges Handpicked in late March, at optimal ripeness, Récolte manuelle à la fin du mois de mars.

Pyrenees, Grenache’s potential relies on careful vineyard Le potentiel du grenache repose surthis une gestion full-bodied management and meticulous flavour assessment raisonnée du vignoble et une évolution suivie at the time of harvest. de la dégustation des baies au moment de la récolte. fresh, Grenache stays thanks Vinification La vinification The fruit was destemmed and transferred into éraflées sont transférées et conservées toLesau fraisgrappes its restrained winemaking a stainless steel tank where it was kept cool dans des cuves inox jusqu’à ce que until fermentation started naturally. A 4-5 week la fermentation commence naturellement. maceration allowed for maximum colour La macération d’une durée de 4 à 5 semaines style.

Cool fermentation and the tannins to soften. permet d’extraire davantage de couleur et d’assouplir les tanins. with ageing in concrete Maturing L’élevage The wine was aged in concrete tanks for 12 months.

Le vin est élevé pendant 12 mois en cuves béton. tanks Tasting wine’s La dégustation bring out the Colour: bright ruby red.

Robe : rouge rubis brillant. bright ruby hue and summer Nose: raspberries, blackberries, strawberries Nez : framboises, mûres, fraises et épices. and spice.

Bouche : notes éclatantes de fruits d’été avec Palate: bright summer with a white pepper en finale une touche de poivre blanc et character. d’épices, strawberry Afruitslight and spice finish, complemented by fine tannins. complétée par des tanins fins.

A full bodied wine with a long finish.

Un vin corsé avec une finale toute en longueur. hint of white pepper adds Recommended food pairing: Avec ce vin nous avons aimé : leg of lamb, game terrines, mushrooms. gigot d’agneau, terrines de gibier, champignons. complexity.

Serving temperature: 15-16°C. Température de dégustation : 15-16$58 °C. La garde : plus de 5 ans.

V I CTO RI A

PYRENEES

AUSTRALIA

V I CTO R I A

Heathcote

PYRENEES

MELBOURNE

AUSTRALIA

V ICTOR IA

LABELLISATION BIO DU MILLÉSIME 2018. ORGANICALLY CERTIFICATION IN PROGRESS ON VINTAGE 2018.

Robe : rubis profond.

Nez : groseille, cuir, petits fruits rouges écrasés avec une touche de caramel au beurre, d’encens et de curry.

Bouche : un vin puissant et chaleureux s’exprimant tout en délicatesse grâce à une structure tannique d’une grande finesse. Des saveurs intenses de fruits mûrs et d’épices alliées à une belle acidité – un trait d’union entre richesse et puissance pour refléter parfaitement le terroir d’Heathcote.

Avec ce vin nous avons aimé : accompagne à merveille la viande d’agneau et le bœuf.

Température de dégustation : 15-16 °C. Conseil du sommelier : nous vous conseillons d’ouvrir une heure avant le service.

La garde : plus de 10 ans.

Colour: deep ruby colour.

Nose: redcurrant, leather, red crushed berries with a hint of toffee, incense and curry.

Palate: this is a powerful and generous wine expressing itself with delicacy thanks to a very delicate tannic structure. Intense flavors of ripe fruits and spices combined to a fine acidity – a balance richness and strength reflecting perfectly the terroir of Heathcote.

Recommended food pairing: a perfect accompaniment to Lamb and Beef.

Serving temperature: 15-16°C Sommelier’s recommendation: we recommend opening the bottle one hour before serving.

Ageing potential: more than 10 years.

Distributed by Galiena (galiena.sg)

Ageing potential: more than 5 years.

Heathcote

MELBOURNE

V ICTOR IA

ginette. 150218

VI CTORI A

LADY’S LANE SHIRAZ

V I CTO R I A

Heathcote

MELBOURNE

ginette. MAH0B - 150218

PYRENEES

Sélection Parcellaire– M. DOMAINE TOURNON CHAPOUTIER LADY’S LANE HEATHCOTE SHIRAZ 2015 Grapes: Shiraz HEATHCOTE-VICTORIA Taste: The domaine is named after invariety Hermitage, Le cépage a commune Grape Shiraz.

Shiraz. soLeSol terroir naturally Shiraz Terroir(Syrah) is key. vierge rouge de l’ère du Cambrien.

Red soil from the Cambrian Period.

Les vendanges Harvest The grapes are grown on rare Les vendanges sont manuelles à maturité The crop is manually harvested at maturity, avoiding en évitant la surmaturation.

Cambrian soils in over-maturation. the Pyrenees, La vinification Vinification Les raisins sont éraflés à 100 %. La fermentation The grapes are 100% destemmed. Fermentation Victoria, ageing se déroule en cuves béton. Lawith macération est longue takes place inin concreteFrench tanks. Maturation times (de 4 à 6 semaines) et l’extraction se fait en douceur are long (from 4 to 6 weeks) and a gentle extraction grâce aux remontages permettant ainsi d’obtenirsilky is performed by pumping-over. It aims at obtaining oak.

The very tannins des tanins fins et délicats. fine and delicate tannins.

L’élevage Maturing support expanding Élevage 100 % en fûts de chêne français avec faible Ageing flavours 100% in French oak barrels withof low ripe proportion de fûts neufs (20 %) pendant une durée proportion of new oak (20%) for 14 months. de 14 mois. raspberries and spices. $79 La dégustation Tasting

LANDSBOROUGH GRENACHE

DOMAINE TOURNON – M. CHAPOUTIER VICTORIA MATHILDA VIOGNIER MARSANNE 2015 Grape varieties Les cépages Viognier and Marsanne.

Viognier et Marsanne.

Le terroir Grapes: Viognier, Terroir Marsanne Podzolic layer coming from red ferruginous clays Podzols issus d’argiles ferrugineuses rouges on shales. sur schistes.

Taste: In Australia, Michel Harvest Les vendanges Grapes are harvested at maturity, avoiding Les vendanges sont manuelles à maturité, Chapoutier new maturation. tout en évitant la surmaturation. found over Vinification La vinification Grapes are destemmed the gently press, Les raisins sont égrappés et délicatement pressés, opportunities to blaze a andtrail cold sedimentation for 48 hours. puis débourbage à froid pendant 48 heures.

La fermentation alcoolique se fait en cuves inox.

Alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tank. with Rhone varietals.

With L’élevage Maturing Le vin est élevé sur lies pendant 5 mois en cuves wine is entirely aged in stainless steel tank dual meaning, theTheon Mathilda inox. lees for 5 months.

La dégustation Tasting Robe : or pâle. pays homage range togold colour. both Colour: pale Nez : nez fruité montrant une belle fraîcheur Nose: fresh crisp and fruity with stone sur des arômes de pêches et d’abricots. the iconic Aussie slang fruit in abundance. as Bouche : attaque souple et ample.

Palate: supple and fresh attack,with great Le palais montre une belle minéralité qui s’équilibre minerality and fruit weight. well as Mathilde.

This white parfaitement avec lesto arômes fruités.

Recommended food pairing: Avec ce vin nous avons aimé : sea bream. blend is crisp and grillServing supple, with dorade à la plancha. temperature: 10-12°C. Température de dégustation : 10-12 °C. Ageing potential: 2-3 years. ample and stone La garde : de 2 à minerality 3 ans. fruit flavours. $45

AUSTRALIA

rouge red

LABELLISATION BIO DU MILLÉSIME 2018. ORGANICALLY CERTIFICATION IN PROGRESS ON VINTAGE 2018.

epicurevietnam 137 ginette. LDN0R - 150218

blanc white

V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

BURGUNDY WILL BREAK YOUR HEART

While consumers grapple with sky-high prices for their favourite wines, producers like François Carillon has also had to make tough decisions.

But there’s a happy ending here,

BY JUNE LEE

F

rançois Carillon’s wines are in Singapore, but the winemaker has been delayed by a cancelled connecting flight. Nicolas Deneux, area director of wine at Rosewood Hong Kong, is quickly despatched to Singapore to cover the first tasting event. The reason, as I find out, is that he has spent most of 2017 to 2018 working in François’ vineyard and cellar, yielding an intimate insight into a historic parcel of Burgundy.

“François is like a gardener, he watches and understands nature very deeply,” Nicolas shares.

OLD AND NEW AT ONCE

François Carillon is the 16th generation of the Carillon family that was established in Puligny-Montrachet. Their archives record a Jehan Carillon in 1520, while 1632 mentions a Carillon viticulturist. The family cellars still occupy the same site, between the church and old nobles’ dwellings in the village, and the motif on Louis Carillon’s label shows a grape harvesting 138 epicurevietnam

knife, a reproduction of a carving above the door frame. François and his older brother Jacques grew up making wine with their father. It was Louis who abandoned the family's polyculture and lifestock breeding in the 1960s to concentrate mainly on fine quality Chardonnay, and who established the Louis Carillon label. Through his wife Colette, the family also acquired some plots of Chassagne-Montrachet. François, who had wanted to be an archeological diver a la Indiana Jones, wasn’t quite given a choice on his path in life – his father steered both sons to take over the domaine, François with his acumen in the vineyard and Jacques with his steadfast hand in the cellar.

A source of François’ pride is his decision to work the estate with no pesticides since 1992. That makes the label an early pioneer together with the renowned Domaine Leflaive. “Before vinification, you must know the vines first,” asserts François, who admits he’s more attracted to the viticulture than vinification.

“A chef can’t cook without good ingredients,” he likens.

FORGING HIS OWN PATH

Having inherited the estate, the two brothers proved to have different ideas in wine, and amicably divided the holdings in 2009. Domaine François Carillon was established in 2010, and François now owns and manages 16 hectares in PulignyMontrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Saunt-Aubin, with about 17 appellations depending on the harvests. “I’ve been called a traditionalist,” François tells me, “but my style is simply a quest for finesse and elegance.” Woody wines are a product of the 1990s, of Parkerisation, he hints, and he wants to move away from that.

His protocol for fine, elegant wines involve cool winemaking, pressing and cooling grapes to 8-10°C, with little clarification and not too much new oak. He gets his aromatics from keeping the wine on lees in tanks, and typically finishes up the Grand Crus in March/April. This is difficult in hot years like 2015 where he persevered to make wine with good minerality. “It was hard to work the soil, which was so dry and solid,” he recalls. His 2015 wines were almost a whole 1% higher in alcohol percentage. This wasn’t as bad as the 2012 vintage, when he was hit with hail in three consecutive months. For his Premier Cru Folatières, he only managed enough volume to make three out of the usual 12 barrels. Or in 2014, when hail and frost combined to lay waste to his favourite vineyard, 1er Cru Les Combettes – he lost the entire crop.

DIVING INTO THE FUTURE

François likes to be challenged. The 51-year-old enjoys sports, especially skiing, diving and parasailing – that is, being close to nature. Winemaking has been a happy compromise to enjoy this relationship with nature while still carrying on the family tradition, something he takes very seriously with now 35 harvests under his belt.

DOMAINE FRANÇOIS CARILLON BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY 2015 Grapes: 100% Chardonnay Taste: From two parcels in Puligny-Montrachet and one in Meursault, this crunchy and bright entry-level Burgundy is an introduction to the house style. Just 10% new oak as befits François’ philosophy, letting the crisp lime, peach and apple notes express. $48

“Burgundy is changing, there’s a risk of losing its soul,” he concedes, citing the loss of savoir-faire as small growers increasingly sell their parcels to larger companies. The character of Burgundy has always been its respect of nature and the heart of the peasant – used here not pejoratively but to capture the culture of families with deep roots there. He is visibly proud that his two older children, Matisse, 23, and Paul, 19, are both training to join the wine business, while the twins, 13, are still in school but are learning to drive tractors and plow as he once did in his teens. “Wine translates the terroir,” he summarises. “Every day brings a challenge, but you must push yourself to the maximum, to always make the best you can.”

DOMAINE FRANÇOIS CARILLON CHASSAGNEMONTRACHET CLOS SAINTJEAN 1ER CRU 2015 Grapes: 100% Chardonnay Taste: A fine showing of François’ Grand Cru in Chassagne-Montrachet, the limestone-based white brings a strong minerality and tension that differs from the Pulignys.

Just 15% new oak accentuates a floral lift and builds in flavour towards the end. Decant if drinking now, ideal with roast white meat or grilled fish. $138

DOMAINE FRANÇOIS CARILLON PULIGNYMONTRACHET LES COMBETTES 1ER CRU 2015 Grapes: 100% Chardonnay Taste: Planted in 1992, the vines usually ripen early on the rich and stony subsoil.

Combette’s sexy, opulent character is evident, finessed with complex tangerine and smoky notes, though still very youthful now. François’ favourite cuvée calls for patient cellaring, up to 20 years. $285

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V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

ONE OF THE LEGENDS of CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE When one savors a red wine from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, one inevitably expects to experience the this concentration, gorged with sunshine inherited from the clay soils that channel water, and rich in rolled pebbles that store the sun’s heat during the day to rediffuse it throughout the night. But when one tastes a wine from Henri Bonneau, one is completely overwhelmed and bewitched by this timeless nectar, leaving one’s taste buds as sole judge.

BY GARY BOVAGNE

I

n order to try to explain this intensity of emotion, we must first of all talk about the great gentleman who unfortunately left us on March 2016, Henri Bonneau. He was a true wine lover, of incredible bonhomie, a playful man, a genius wine- maker with a magical palate far from all speculation and modern winemaking techniques. He embodied the 12th eponymous generation to work the 6 hectares of old vines of the Domaine planted mainly with Grenache (75 %), Mourvèdre (10 %), Cinsault (10 %) and Counoise (5 %), on soils of large pebbles (called rolled pebbles) mainly on the Crau plateau, which many consider to be one of the finest terroirs of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Produced from old, low-yield vines (10 to 15 hl per hectare), the grapes would be harvested at high maturity and then put into long fermentation in concrete vats on indigenous yeasts, without temperature control and without sulphur. One of the particularities of Henri Bonneau’s wines also lies in the long ageing process of between 5 and 10 years in old Burgundy barrels – themselves 10 to 20 years old, with the aim of never « toasting » the aromatic structure of the wine but making it racier, deeper, and to heighten both its finesse and its complexity.

Every day, Henri Bonneau would invariably descend to his 17th century cellar and perform the same rituals: tasting all his barrels to determine whether the wine was ready or whether it still needed to wait. There are no plot-based cuvées at GAEC Henri Bonneau, it is the palate of this amazing vigneron that did the work and

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he who, depending on the typology of the vintage and the nature of his wines, decided to produce — or not — the 3 different cuvées: the classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Marie- Beurrier cuvée and the most powerful cuvée, La Réserve des Célestins. Henri Bonneau’s wines are of exceptional depth and rare complexity, offering concentrations of ripe fruit and satiny tannins like no other. These rare and singular wines will wait in your cellar to take you on a journey through time when you taste them.

The different vintages produced at GAEC Henri Bonneau are produced in very limited quantities and are therefore particularly difficult to find. The wines of the great Henri Bonneau have all become precious and ardently coveted gems.

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CELLAR CHOICE

TAKE A TRIP DOWN THE CALIFORNIA COAST

Beyond cabernet sauvignons, the sunny state produces some exciting pinot noirs and cool climate whites. These three wines are a small sampler of what California has to offer.

Walter Hansel Pinot Noir – South Slope 2018 As you travel north of San Francisco, you find yourself in the cooler wine-growing regions dotted along the Sonoma Coast. Walter Hansel is located here, on the southern tip of the Russian River Valley, a region known for pinot noir and chardonnay grapes. The winery is run by Steve Hansel, Walter’s son, who believes in minimalistic viticulture and frames his wines in Burgundy fashion. Made from 100% Dijon clones, this pinot noir is marked by cherry fruit and spices, and a lovely balance of fruit and refreshing acidity. $ 118, Pinnacle Wine and Spirits

QUINTESSA ILLUMINATION SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018 Sauvignon blanc is the rising star of the Napa Valley, and Quintessa’s Illumination presents a delightful expression – a classic sauvignon blanc and semillion blend. The property lies in the fabled Rutherford region in Napa Valley and boasts of volcanic soils that add vibrancy to its wines.

Rebekah Wineburg believes that varietal is transparent to the Napa Valley terroir and expresses its best features.

Aged in French oak barrel, the wine is aromatic and textural. It shows ripe citrus, stone fruit like apricot and possesses a delightful minerality. $88, Wine Clique

2018 Chateau Montelena, Chardonnay Known for its 1976 victory at Judgement of Paris, the feted competition between French and California wines, Chateau Montelena Chardonnay retains its special touch. While the winery sits at the north end of Napa Valley, which gets quite warm, the fruit is sourced from a cooler site in Oak Knoll. Aged 10 months in French oak, the 2018 shows ripe fruits like melon, peach and apricot, and a supple body with touches of vanilla and spice in the finish. $128, Ponti Wine Cellars

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THE CAPE WINELANDS STALWARTS Amongst the myriad wines of South Africa, a few names have stood the test of time. These are the iconic producers crafting poised, age-worthy wines.

Palladius 2019

KLEIN CONSTANTIA VIN DE CONSTANCE 2018

From influential winemaker Eben Sadie comes the Palladius, a veritable expression of Swartland, comprising 11 different grapes from 17 sites. In his pursuit of freshness, Sadie dropped new oak in favour of concrete eggs and clay amphorae; and opted for Mediterranean varieties like Colombard, Palomino, Verdelho, and Rhone whites to complement the core of chenin blanc.

The 2019 vintage presents a complex floral, citrus, honey, nectarines and pear on the nose, which replicates on the palate with an alluring phenolic bitterness on the finish. To pair, think seafood, white meats, and fresh pasta dishes. $158, Ampelia Fine Wines

This sweet nectar is the stuff of legends. With 337 years of winemaking history, it counts Napolean and Jane Austen as its fans and continues to impress vintage after vintage.

Winemaker Matthew Day aims to make a “sweet wine that doesn’t taste sweet”. This vintage is intensely floral, with signature notes of white flowers, marmalade, beeswax, pickled ginger and apricots, and a poetic balance of sugar and acid in its intensity of flavour and delicate mouthfeel. Drink chilled, preferably with a platter of cheese. $126, Wine Clique

GLENELLY LADY MAY 2015 Lady May is a taste of Bordeaux in South Africa and has the credits to prove it. May-Eliane de Lencquesaing established the estate after she sold Bordeaux’s second growth estate, Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit Verdot, the wine is seamless with black and blue fruits, a medium body, and a mineral finish. An age-worthy wine and a great accompaniment to red meats. $115, Wine Clique

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B A R AT H O M E

Celery The low-alcohol drink is perfect for a holistic autumn.

INGREDIENTS 5ml

Mussalano Bianco Vermouth 15ml Suze gentian liqueur* 2 dashes celery bitters 15ml fresh celery juice 20ml fresh lemon juice 10ml simple syrup (1:1

water and sugar ratio) 30ml soda water 30ml tonic water Celery curls or lemon wheel for garnish Collins/highball glass

METHOD Add all ingredients to a Collins or highball glass.

Fill the glass with ice.

Stir with a spoon till combined and chilled.

Serve with garnish and enjoy.

“The bitterness of the celery and dryness offered by the tonic in the cocktail provide a very vegetal feel. The vermouth, simple syrup and lemon juice help brightens up the drink.”

RICKY PAIVA

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF FLOW BAR

*Can be found in specialty spirit stores or substitute with Salers or Chartreuse gentiane.

FREE FLOW

Bar veteran Ricky Paiva finds a new home at Flow Bar on Duxton Hill where he mixes drinks sans pretension.

A

t Flow Bar, we highly recommend starting with the Celery (featured on the opposite page), followed by She So Shiso. Be deliberately slow as you sip them. Take your time and parse through the layers of flavours – sweet, savoury and saline.

“I love shiso,” shares Ricky Paiva, the bar-guru-veteran leading Flow Bar. “To me, it’s the tonka bean of the earth. You get that slight mentha note from peppermint, a rounded sweetness from hibiscus, and this beautiful green cora-filled notes. So many flavours that come off from that one leaf.”

You’ve probably spotted the leaf served in sushi and sashimi plates, and while it is often used in cocktails, seldom is it paired with melon, tempering the fruit’s sweetness with its minty, herbaceous and spicy notes.

Ricky Paiva

Paiva’s experienced hand comes into play as he marries each ingredient to seamlessly create ripples of flavours in the She So Shiso cocktail, from the Botanist gin to the honey and shisoflavoured sugar syrup and shiso bitters. For garnish, he uses a compressed melon ball soaked in saline-umami juices.

A native Californian, Paiva has called Singapore home since 2014 when he was invited to launch Manhattan Bar. Everyone knows him, either for his master craftsmanship, his disarming hospitability, or the trademark pencil-tipped moustache (which has since been trimmed off to a more traditional length). He is celebrating the first anniversary of Flow Bar, launched in collaboration with one-Michelin-starred Restaurant JAG led by chef-owner Jeremy Gillon.

“All my cocktails are like music that have already been written, and it is up to the artist to give it a new sound,” Paiva says, going over the 19-cocktail harmony he has created for Flow Bar. “Every cocktail we create has a ‘backbone’, an old classic cocktail, and we are only modernising it at Flow Bar.” The bar favourite Expresso Martini is a synthesis of Paiva’s life experiences. “Growing up, my mother will always make dulce de leche desserts or add dulce de leche into the coffee.” He tried to do a similar espresso martini-style cocktail at Manhattan.

“The drink never took off. Singapore consumers weren’t ready to have such a different type of espresso martini.”

As he revisited the drink at Flow Bar, he unintentionally added a touch of caramelisation on top for the photoshoot. “The photographer happened to capture the smoke coming off the glass, and it was so beautiful. It led to us wanting to serve it in this manner, at the tableside of our guests.”

The nosh is sourced from Restaurant JAG and selected by Paiva.

“Each plate will reflect my Californian vibe – fresh, light, seasonal with Jeremy’s French refinement.” Expect celeriac hummus dressed in linseed and sunflower seeds, a platter of Savoie cheese and cold cuts or the JAG signature Croque Monsieur.

I ask him if he can define Ricky’s touch. He obliges, “Perhaps ‘Ricky’s touch’ is the knowledge of the foundation of original classic cocktails but with a small twist to reach that magical balance. It may sound simple, but years of experience and a developed palate are required.”

Flow Bar is at 76A Duxton Road, Singapore 089535 Tel: 8028 5865

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RAISING THE BARS

COCKTAILS ABOVE THE CLOUDS What better way to enjoy a craft cocktail than at a Skybar, set high on the 75th and 76th floors of the iconic Landmark 81 building, with epic panoramic views of Ho Chi Minh. Blank Lounge offers a wide variety of artisanal cocktails, masterfully prepared by their team of highly creative mixologists, striving to produce a unique and memorable experience for each and every guest. For the teetotaler, they also offer a carefully curated selection of fresh-pressed juice mocktails, coffees and teas to pair with their edibles of small plates, canapé platters, and wide selection of pastries and simply scrumptious desserts. Although the views from every table are sensational, try nabbing a coveted seat on their small outdoor patio, set on a platform, jutting out from the building into the endless skyline. It is one of the most picturesque sunsets over the city you will ever see Landmark 81, Floor 75th - 76th, 208 Nguyen Huu Canh Street, Ward 22, Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City

Tel: +84 90 367 29 44

MOODY NEW ORLEANS SPEAKEASY VIBES

When you step inside the large black opaque glass doors of Lost Birds Bar in Thao Dien, a newish addition to Saigon’s vibrant Mixology scene, you feel immediately transported to a late 19th century New Orleans speakeasy, within a chapter of an Anne Rice novel, where the Vampire Lestat is lurking in a dark corner of the room, with his piercing eyes upon you, seducing you into submission. Sexy and serene, moody yet approachable, it invokes a sense of calm the moment you are immersed within the space. Not to mention, the craft cocktails are simply sublime, and their Spotify channel is vibey on point! With focus on the use of regional, sustainable and seasonal products, and smaller batch craft liquor brands, their master mixologists curated a menu for every taste preference. For bold and liquor forward, try the Stormy Sea - ginger butter fat-washed Johnny Walker Black, coconut fat-washed Johnny Walker Black, smokey caramel, Padan distillate and bitters. For something fruity, Bihn Thuan Dragon - Skyy vodka, red dragon fruit, Vietnamese basil, peach puree, bitters and lime. Or, for the gin lover, Young Days - anise and cinnamon infused Tanqueray, lychee juice, sour mix & egg whites. Just delicious! 24A Xuan Thuy Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City

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Tel: +84 70 460 13 50

ROOFTOP CITY VIEWS AND VIBES For great views, great tunes, and even better vibes, be sure to stop

by Banana Mama in D1, HCMC for a fabulous night out on the town, guaranteed. Just a few steps from swarming Bui Vien Street, it's a trendy rooftop bar where hipsters and party people flock to watch the scarlet sunset descend upon the city, sip cocktails and dance the night away to the beats of popular local and international DJ’s.

Need a snack to keep the buzz at bay? Dig into their crunchy Macand-Cheese Balls, filled with melted Emmental cheese, ham and mushrooms and served with truffle aioli for dipping, Baked French Camembert, presented with roasted cashews, honey, sprigs of rosemary and crusty bread, and for those in the know, their “Buy 1 Drink, get 1 Burger” special every Wednesday night is on point! For a yummy libation on a hot summer night, try an Aperol’ Slush - a refreshing frozen twist on the classic, order a jug of fruity and juicy Mama Punch, or enjoy a Gin & Tonic DIY, where you choose your poison with coordinating garnishes, and tonic of choice, et voilà! A personalized G&T awaits! 102 ABC, Cong Quynh Street, Pham Ngu Lao Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Tel: +84 90 183 76 41

MUSIC MEETS MAGICAL MIXOLOGY Step into this music-themed cocktail bar and let the rhythm of the drinks and atmosphere transport you to a world of melodic delight. Located in Hanoi, The Blacksheep - Cocktail Theatre’s drink menu is a symphony of creative concoctions, each inspired by a record album compilation or childhood mixed tape, blending harmonious flavours and innovative mixology.

With live music performances, DJs and a soothing chill vibe, this bar is a haven for Hanoi hipsters seeking a multisensory experience combining the art of mixology with the magic of music. From the Volume 1: Classic & Modern menu, try a “Horn of the Bulls”, “Bear with Me Honey” or “Corpse Reviver #2. From Volume 2: The Remixes, A “Mai Death Tai” or “Miniart” will set you straight, or for the hardcore, Punk Rock mosh pit, order 20, 40, or 100 shots of choice and, as they say in Wayne’s World...

“Party on Garth!” 28 Tong Duy Tan Street, Hang Bong Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi

Tel: +84 81 420 28 28

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A GARDEN FILLED WITH FUNTASTIC Nestled behind a flower shop in the centre of Hà Nội , the garden themed bar Funtasia Cocktail & Wine Bar is an inviting and relaxing oasis for true mixology seekers. With a menu featuring unique and inventive crafted drinks, made with fresh herbs and botanicals, and zero waste of ingredients, each sip is like a leisurely and peaceful stroll through a lush green garden. The cosy and inviting atmosphere, the picturesque green wall of plants art instillation, dimmed lights, and soft atmospheric music wafting throughout makes it the perfect spot for a romantic date or a “Funtastic” night out with friends. Inspired by the lifecycle of greenery, their “Circle of Tree” Menu of Signature Cocktails reflects the never ending circle of life, and the everlasting bounty provided to us by Mother Earth. Try a “Bear Fruit” with Roku Gin, Midori, Elderflower Liqueur, Pineapple Juice, Egg Whites, Basil and Orange Blossom Water Spray, or “I Am The Root”, a delicious concoction of Pineapple Rum, Talisker, Soursop Cordial, Falenum, Angos Bitters, Light Cream & Lime Juice… not your garden variety 4 Tong Dan Street, Trang Tien Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: +84 98 827 59 95

BESPOKE AND BEWITCHING BEVERAGES Bespoke Mixology is a hot trend in the cocktail industry at the moment that involves creating unique and personalised drinks for each individual guest. It allows for a more interactive experience for the customer, as well as showcases the bartender’s creativity and skills. At Hanoi’s Gallery Bespoke Cocktail Bar, guests can decide on the alcohol base of choice, preferred flavour profiles and notes, and their skilled team of Master Mixologists will custom build the concoction to perfection. Try one of their housemade Gallery Distillery liquors like Blackcurrant Tea Gin Tanqueray London Dry Gin, re-distilled with Blackcurrant and Green Tea, and served with Carbonated Orange Cordial & Raspberry. Or one of their inventive modern signature twists on the classics like the Hanoi Colada - Roasted Honey Potato Rum, Coconut Liqueur, Coconut Cream, Pandom Syrup & Pineapple Juice. And for a taste of gastropub goodness, Salted Egg Potato Fries, a Mango and Prosciutto Wrap or a classic grilled Rib Eye Steak with Chimichurri Sauce will fit the bill 95 Phung Hung Street, Hang Bo Ward Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi

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Tel: +84 94 111 14 20

ALCHEMY INVOKES COCKTAIL MASTERY Alchemy, the ancient practice of transmuting base metals into gold, has long been associated with magic and mystery. But did you know that alchemy also played a significant role in the development of Mixology? By experimenting with herbs, spices, and other ingredients, alchemists paved the way for modern bartenders to create complex and innovative cocktails, and Hà Nội based The Alchemist has embraced this antiquated practice through their inventive menu of supreme alcohol based, and mocktail concoctions. Try the “Panarus”, on their Signature Cocktail list, with Blanco Tequila Fat Washed Coconut Oil, Pineapple Ginger Soda, Oregano + Thyme Cordial and Aztec Chocolate Bitters. For a Modern Classic, “White Negroni” with Tanqueray London Dry, Suze & Lillet Blanc. Or a super boozy “Oyster Shot” with Vodka, Gin, Rum, a Shucked Oyster, Lemon, Homemade Cocktail Sauce.

To complement your beverage, snack on one of their creative Canapés like Salted Salmon, Fried Shrimp Puff & Green Mustard or a larger portioned Sautéed Lobster with Garlic Butter & Cheese.

The perfect pairings for perfected beverages 25 Bat Su Street, Hang Bo Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi

Tel: +84 96 871 34 42

REFLECTING OLD WORLD SOPHISTICATION The Haflington cocktail bar in Hà Nội transports guests to a bygone era with its old-world aesthetic and vintage charm. The meticulously crafted drinks, developed by “The Butlers” and served in elegant glassware, pay homage to the golden age of cocktail culture. Reflecting a museum with its décor of antiquities, vaulted glass panelled ceiling, and stunning model of a giant prehistoric Mosasaurus dinosaur affixed grandly above the bar, the ambiance is warm and inviting, with plush seating and dim lighting, presenting an intimate and sophisticated atmosphere which will leave you feeling transported to the past. Try the “Green Fairy”, with Bacardi 8, Midori, Pineapple Juice, Lime Juice, Champagne & Absinthe. “Song of the Birds”, Rye Whiskey, Sweet Vermouth, Orange Juice, Lemon Juice, Grenadine Syrup and Peychaud Bitters. Or, for a taste of the classics, a vintage version of a Mint Julep with Bourbon Whiskey, Mint Leaves & Brown Sugar or a “Ping Pong” with SipSmith Sloe Gin, Sweet Vermouth, Dry Vermouth, Cynar & Orange Bitters. Chic sophistication and refinement at its best 94 Hang Ma Street, Hang Bo Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi

Tel: +84 87 949 90 94

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RAISING THE BARS

UNCOVER A BOTANIC WONDERLAND

Inspired by the dazzling cocktail capitals of the world and their iconic botanic gardens, One-Ninety Bar at Four Seasons Hotel Singapore Head Bartender Sophia Kang and Beverage Manager Gabriel Carlos roll out a new cocktail menu this spring, inviting guests to sip on 12 creative concoctions that tell the story of culture, unique botanicals, famous landmarks and the iconic bar scenes in Singapore, London and New York.

SINGAPORE BOTANIC Rose of Sharon - Brass Lion Dry Gin, Muyu Vetiver Gris, Cointreau, Hibiscus, Pineapple, Yuzu, Grenadine - Inspired by the engravings of South Korea and Singapore’s national flowers seen on the “Conversation” plaque in the Singapore Botanic Gardens, this concoction marries the flavours from both cultures harmoniously, and is Head Bartender Sophia Kang’s tribute to the iconic Singapore Sling.

Zingiber - Vida Mezcal, Ancho Reyes Verde, Ginger, Turmeric, Lime, Fever-Tree Grapefruit Soda - A Paloma variation with a subtle smokiness of mezcal. Bright and refreshing, look forward to citrus notes with every sip, topped with a Peychaud’s bitterssoaked candied ginger for a piquant-flowery sharpness. A tribute

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to the iconic ingredient in Asian kitchens and the Ginger Garden in Singapore.

Kampung Kueh - El Dorado 12 Years, Bitter Truth Golden Falernum, Coconut, Pandan, Jackfruit, Cream, Egg White - An aromatic dessert cocktail that embodies the popular local treat, all in one glass. A toast to the kampung (village) spirit and food culture, significant in Singapore’s treasured heritage.

Bandstand - Michter’s Single Barrel Rye, Mancino Rosso Vermouth, Mr. Black Coffee Amaro, Amaro Lucano - Likened to a classic Manhattan, this creation is a sight to behold with its deliciously dark body and stunning hand-cut ice that represents the iconic landmark that used to be at the highest point of the Tanglin Core site.

ROYAL BOTANIC Miss North - Flor de Caña 12 Years, Woodford Reserve Bourbon, Mancino Rosso Vermouth, Cointreau, Lily of the Field, Beetroot Cordial - Inspired by prolific English Victorian Biologist Marianne North, this sour fizz cocktail is a pretty sight that packs a punch.

Kitchen Garden - Nuet Dry Aquavit, Tomato, Mushroom, Celery, Citrus - Rimmed with a house-made tomato powder around the glass, experience vegetal-heavy notes paired beautifully with complementary nuances of grapefruit peel and blackcurrant leaves from the Nuet Dry Aquavit.

Arethusa - London No. 3 Dry Gin, Haku Vodka, Mancino Secco Vermouth, Empirical The Plum, The Japanese Shiso Bitters - This Martini variant celebrates the drinking culture of the classic Martini in the UK cocktail scene. Served with a side of Japanese Ume plums and pickles for the perfect pairing.

The Hive - Stranger and Sons Gin, Campari, Lavender Honey, Lemon, Grapefruit, Orange Marmalade, Egg White - An aromatic sour with light refreshing notes. An ode to the striking installation of the same name in the heart of a wildflower meadow in Kew Gardens.

Lightscape - Ocho Blanco Tequila, Mancino Bianco Vermouth, Wild Raspberry Eau de Vie, Fernet Hunter - A white Negroni that celebrates Brooklyn Botanic Gardens transforming into a winter luminary garden. As mesmerizing a scene as the flavours this cocktail carries.

Palm House - Arc Botanical Gin, Aperol, Amaro Lucano, Cocchi Rosa, Lemon, Champagne, Egg White - Inspired by the well-known wedding venue in Brooklyn Botanic Gardens, this drink is reminiscent of a wedding bouquet, with the flavours encapsulating the bitter-sweet romance of marriage.

BROOKLYN BOTANIC

ZERO-PROOF COCKTAILS

Dumbo - Monkey Shoulder Triple Malt, House-made Peated Port Syrup, Scrappy’s Chocolate Bitters, Regan’s Orange Bitters - Modelled after a classic Old Fashioned, beautifully smoked. A tribute to the trendy cobblestone streets and Brooklyn warehouse buildings, which includes a former tobacco factory.

Bloom - Jura 12 Years, Cherry, Hojicha, Spices, Thai Basil, Whey - Known to have the second largest cherry blossom collection, and one of the most diverse ones outside of Japan, this concoction uses Japanese-inspired ingredients such as sour cherries and green tea.

A delicious rendition of a Milk Punch, with hints of star anise spice.

In addition to the boozy selection, the new menu also features a collection of non-alcoholic drinks that are crafted for a refreshing experience where flavour reigns supreme, allowing guests to discover a world of well-balanced drinks, without the buzz.

“We have seen a trend with zero proof cocktails over recent years. More guests are seeking non-alcoholic options that are just as delicious and sophisticated. It’s also been a fun challenge for us as bartenders to experiment with new ingredients and techniques to create these drinks that are not only refreshing but also visually stunning,” Beverage Manager Gabriel Carlos shares.

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S E E N & S AVO U R E D

VIETNAM'S GASTRONOMIC ODYSSEY Four MICHELIN Stars Illuminate the Culinary Sky Vietnam's culinary landscape is on fire as 103 restaurants across the country achieve the prestigious recognition of the MICHELIN Guide. In a dazzling ceremony, four exceptional establishments, including Gia, Hibana by Koki, Tam Vi, and Anan Saigon, bask in the limelight as they are awarded the highly coveted MICHELIN Stars. This culinary triumph not only showcases the remarkable talent of Vietnamese chefs but also propels the nation's cuisine to new heights of global admiration.

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Hibana by Koki

Ănăn Saigon

Gia

T

he MICHELIN Star, an emblem of excellence in the culinary world, is bestowed upon establishments that offer exceptional cooking quality and deliver unparalleled dining experiences. Gia, led by chef Sam Tran, is a Vietnamese contemporary restaurant in Hanoi.

Its ever-evolving menu, inspired by Vietnam's rich culinary heritage and changing seasons, has earned it this well-deserved recognition. Additionally, chef Sam Tran himself was honored with the prestigious MICHELIN Young Chef Award, a testament to his exceptional talent and promising future.

Hibana by Koki, located in Hanoi, takes guests on a theatrical gastronomic journey within the captivating ambiance of Capella Hotel's basement. Chef Hiroshi Yamaguchi impresses diners with his masterful teppanyaki dishes, intricately prepared with a symphony of complex flavors.

Tam Vi, also situated in Hanoi, offers a nostalgic experience in a vintage tea house that embodies the essence of Northern Vietnamese culture. Its collection of traditional furniture and handwritten calligraphies creates an ambiance that takes guests back in time. Tam Vi serves authentic Northern Vietnamese dishes, complemented by a selection of culinary delights from the Central and Southern regions.

Tầm Vị

Anan Saigon, located in Ho Chi Minh City, is a Vietnamese contemporary restaurant led by Vietnamese-American chef Peter Cuong Franklin. With innovative culinary techniques applied to traditional street food recipes, Anan Saigon tantalizes taste buds with a fusion of enticing flavors. Notably, the restaurant was named Vietnam's best restaurant in 2021 and secured the 39th spot on the prestigious "Asia's 50 Best Restaurants" list by theworlds50best.com.

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The MICHELIN Guide also recognized 29 establishments with the Bib Gourmand distinction, which honors exceptional valuefor-money dining experiences. Among these establishments, over half of them are renowned for serving Vietnamese cuisine or street food, showcasing the deep-rooted popularity of Vietnam's vibrant street food culture.

In addition to these remarkable achievements, a total of 70 other distinguished eateries, including La Badiane, Truffle, T.U.N.G Dining, The Monkey Gallery Dining, Akira Back, Octo, and Quan An Ngon, have been selected for the MICHELIN Guide Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City 2023. These establishments represent a diverse range of culinary styles, including French, European, Japanese, Italian, Spanish, Latin American, and Mediterranean cuisines, offering an enticing blend of gastronomic experiences for both locals and international visitors.

13 BIB GOURMAND ESTABLISHMENTS IN HANOI 1. 1946 Cua Bac 2. Bun Cha Ta (Nguyen Huu Huan Street) 3. Chả Cá Thăng Long 4. Chào Bạn 5. Don Duck Old Quarter 6. Habakuk 7. Phở 10 Lý Quốc Sư 8. Phở Bò Ấu Triệu 9. Phở Gà Nguyệt 10. Phở Gia Truyền 11. The East 12. Tuyết Bún Chả 34 13. Xới Cơm

16 BIB GOURMAND ESTABLISHMENTS IN HO CHI MINH CITY 1. Bếp Mẹ ỉn (Le Thanh Ton) 2. Chay Garden 3. Cơm Tấm Ba Ghiền 4. Cuc Gach Quan 5. Dim Tu Tac (Dong Du) 6. Hum Garden 7. Phở Chào 8. Phở Hoà Pasteur 9. Phở Hoàng 10. Phở Hương Bình 11. Phở Lệ (District 5) 12. Phở Miến Gà Kỳ Đồng 13. Phở Minh 14. Phở Phượng 15. Xôi Bát 16. Hồng Phát

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Beyond recognizing outstanding restaurants, the MICHELIN Guide also aims to spotlight talented individuals who contribute to enhancing the overall dining experience. Chef Sam Tran's MICHELIN Young Chef Award, Nguyen Thi Nu's MICHELIN Service Award from Vietnam House in Ho Chi Minh City, and Yu Yamamoto's MICHELIN Sommelier Award from Lua in Ho Chi Minh City are all testimonies to their expertise and dedication.

Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the MICHELIN Guide, expressed immense pride in presenting Vietnam's first restaurant selection. He acknowledged the remarkable diversity and differences between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, and eagerly anticipates the guide's continued exploration of Vietnam's gastronomic landscape in the years to come.

With the prestigious MICHELIN Star gracing Vietnam's culinary establishments, the country's dining scene has undeniably earned its place among the world's gastronomic destinations. This recognition not only honors the exceptional talents of Vietnamese chefs but also celebrates Vietnam's rich culinary heritage, attracting food enthusiasts from around the globe to embark on an unforgettable culinary journey through its vibrant cities.

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WHERE TO FIND

Hoiana Resort & Golf

• Mr. Anh Restaurant • Nen Restaurant • Olivia’s Prime Steakhouse • Pizza 4p’s Hoang Van Thu • Retro Kitchen and Bar • The Rachel Restaurant • The Temptation Restaurant • Tra House & Bistro

HOTEL Ho Chi Minh • An Lam Saigon River • Caravelle • Chloe Gallery • Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon • Hotel Des Arts • Hotel Nikko Saigon • Intercontinental Asiana Saigon • Lotte Legend • Le Meridien Saigon • Mai House Saigon • Mia Saigon • New World Hotel • Norfolk Mansion • Novotel Saigon Centre • Oakwood Residence Saigon • Park Hyatt Saigon • Pullman Hotel • Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon • Rex Hotel • Saigon Prince Hotel • Sedona Suites • Sofitel Saigon Plaza • Sheraton Saigon Hotel • Sherwood Residence • Somerset Vista Hochiminh City • The Reverie Saigon • The Myst Dong Khoi • Villa Song Saigon • Windsor Plaza Hotel Con Dao • Poulo Condo • Sixsense Con Dao Nha Trang • An Lam Retreats Ninh Van Bay • Intercontinental Nha Trang • Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa • Sixsense Ninh Van Bay • The Anam Da Nang • Fusion Maia Danang • Furama Resort & Spa • Hyatt Regency Danang Resort And Spa • Intercontinental Da Nang

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Hoi An • Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai Hue • Alba Wellness Resort • Banyan Tree Lang Co Ha Noi • Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake • Intercontinental Hanoi Landmark72 • JW Marriott Hotel Hanoi • Sheraton Hanoi Hotel • Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi Phu Quoc • Fusion Resort Phuquoc • Hyatt Regency Nam Nghi Phu Quoc Island • Intercontinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort • JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa RESTAURANT Ho Chi Minh • An Vien Restaurant • Anh Tukk Modern Thai Cuisine • Argentinian Steakhouse El Gaucho • Au Lac Do Brazil Restaurant • Boomarang Bistro Saigon • L’usine Cafe & Restaurant • La Villa French Restaurant • Hoa Túc Restaurant • Moo Beefsteak • Opus Sai Gon • Pendolasco Restaurant • Uraetei Yakiniku Restaurant • Refinery Bar & Restaurant • San Fu Lou • Tandoor Vietnam • The Log Restaurant • Thai Cong Restaurant • Villa Royale Downtown Antiques & Tea Room • 3G Trois Gourmands Da Nang • Bushido Restaurant • Bistecca Restaurant Danang • Don Cipriani’s • El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse • Hai Cang Da Nang Restaurant

Ha Noi • Bow Thai • Cloud Nine Restaurant • EMM’s French Bistro • Essence Restaurant • French Grill • Hanoi Garden Restaurant • Hanoi Ocean House • Hanoi Serene Cuisine Restaurant • La Fiorentina - Italian Restaurant • La Badiane • La Verticale • Madame Hien • Maison Vie Restaurant - Fine French Cuisine • Kimono Japanese Restaurant • Opera Garden Restaurant • T.U.N.G Dining • Red Bean Restaurant • Teddy’s American Grill House • Tunglok Heen AIRPORT Ho Chi Minh Tan Son Nhat International Airport International Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Rose Lounge • Lotus Lounge 2 • Orchid Lounge • Le Saigonnais Lounge Domestis Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Le Saigonnais Lounge Da Lat Lien Khuong International Airport • Lien Khuong Airport Nha Trang Cam Ranh International Airport International Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Sun Coast Lounge Domestis Terminal • The Champ Lounge Ha Noi Noi Bai International Airport International Terminal • Song Hong Business Lounge Domestis Terminal • Song Hong Premium Lounge

WHERE TO BUY Ho Chi Minh • Phuong Nam Vincom Dong Khoi • Phuong Nam Saigon Centre • Phuong Nam An Phu Supermarket • Phuong Nam Estella Place • Phuong Nam Parkson Hung Vuong • Phuong Nam Vivo City • Phuong Nam Crescent Mall • Phuong Nam Vincom Le Van Viet • Phuong Nam Book City Garden Mall • Phuong Nam Book City Van Hanh Mall • Ca Chep Bookstore 211-213 Vo Van Tan, District 3 Ha Noi • Phuong Nam Garden Mall • Phuong Nam Lotte Center • Phuong Nam Mega Mall Royal City • Phuong Nam Vincom Ba Trieu • Phuong Nam Vincom Nguyen Chi Thanh Binh Duong • Phuong Nam Aeon Mall Binh Duong Dong Nai • Phuong Nam Vincom Bien Hoa • Phuong Nam 113-115 Dong Khoi Street, Tam Hiep Ward Da Lat • Phuong Nam Vincom Bao Loc • Phuong Nam Lien Khuong Airport • Phuong Nam 279 Phan Dinh Phung Street Nha Trang • Phuong Nam 17 Thai Nguyen Street, Phuoc Tan Ward Da Nang • Phuong Nam 153 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Phuoc Ninh Ward, Hai Chau District • Phuong Nam Vincom Da Nang • Phuong Nam Danang Airport Can Tho • Phuong Nam 06 Hoa Binh Street, An Cu Ward, Ninh Kieu District

Pasteur Street Craft Beer

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E P I C U R E L OV E S

DOLCE&GABBANA X BIALETTI

Following the release of the Moka Express Carretto Siciliano, Bialetti and Dolce&Gabbana continue their collaboration with the introduction of a new and exclusive ground coffee blend for Moka: Perfetto Moka Irresistibile, a refined blend of flavours and creativity Made in Italy. Perfetto Moka Irresistibile is a tribute to Italian coffee tradition, its rituality and the values of conviviality that it represents in the world, enhanced by the unique creativity of Dolce&Gabbana. In addition, this blend is distinguished by the grinding and roasting of the coffee beans, which have been carefully studied

by Bialetti to enhance the taste of coffee prepared with the Moka.

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AN ASIAN SUSTAINABLE COFFEE INITIATIVE From the highlands of Da Lat and Dak Lak in Vietnam, Boncafé presents Rainforest Reserve – an exquisite Asian coffee blend using the finest beans from Rainforest Alliance Certified™ farms in Vietnam. The farmers are trained in methods that help safeguard the health of the land and benefit farm communities, and can boost yields at the same time.

By enjoying Rainforest Reserve coffee, you are helping to ensure the long term well-being of the farm communities, forests and wildlife on which we all depend.

For more information, please contact us at salesenquiry@boncafe.com.

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