Epicure Vietnam Issue 09

ISSUE 09 SUMMER 2023 epicurevietnam.com

THE SINGULAR WINES OF MONTALCINO

Discovering home of Tuscany’s most powerful red wine, Brunello di Montalcino

A FINE DINING CHEF GROUNDED IN SUSTAINABILITY Chef Si Toan of Sam Dining views the Culinary Arts as a fully sensory experience

SUBTLETY AMID THE FLOW OF COFFEE CULTURE Each coffee collection at Nespresso presents a unique story

PUBLISHER 'S NOTE

Presenting Vietnam To The Culinary World

T

he early April rains herald the arrival of the heat of the coming summer. Meanwhile, Vietnam continues its postpandemic recovery, with scores of new restaurants, bars and lounges appearing weekly. The buzz is still there, despite the predictions of an economic crisis on the horizon.

This is Vietnam and its drive and optimism at its best, propelled by the human desire to live, eat and spend happy times with friends. To make up for months of fear, isolation, social distancing, and facing an uncertain future.

The hallmark of all this is the sheer number of amazing festivals underway – on fashion, on culture – even on our beloved on “Banh Mi”, part of our culinary heritage and identity. Then there are the news of the Michelin Guide arriving in Vietnam, which has made Vietnamese chefs striving to do their very best to bring put Vietnam on the map of the world's best dining destinations. One example is Anan Saigon, with its Executive Chef & Owner Peter Cuong Franklin, honoured as part of Asia's 50 best restaurants.

The recent culinary event series “The Essential Elements”, held at The Reverie Saigon, offered a tribute to the four elements: Water, Earth, Air, and Fire. The participating top chefs in Vietnam - Paul Pettini from Café Cardinal, Francis Thuan from Esta Restaurant, Thao Na from Lavelle Restaurant, Summer Le from Nén Light, Matteo Fontana from Da Vittorio, and Marcello Geraldini, Executive Chef of The Reverie Saigon, made this an event to remember.

Equally lavish, Regent Phu Quoc celebrated its 1st Year Anniversary with a four-day series of Taste Studio events, in collaboration with Fashion Designer Devon Nguyen and renowned pearl brand in Phu Quoc, Ngoc Hien. An equally unforgettable experience, brought to life by the four talented chefs of the resort.

The coming months and days may still turn out to be difficult, but we at Epicure Vietnam will continue to bring you the latest on quality dining options in our country. Whatever life brings on tomorrow, we are here to support and honour the talented chefs who devoted themselves to elevate Vietnamese's cuisine on the culinary world stage.

Jade Huynh Publisher

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VOLUME 09 | AUTHORS

SUMMER 2023

THANH NIEN PUBLISHING HOUSE HO CHI MINH CITY BRANCH DIRECTOR & EDITOR IN CHIEF EDITOR

Floor 11th, Bao Tien Phong Building, D29 Pham Van Bach, Yen Hoa, Cau Giay, Hanoi 145 Pasteur Street, Vo Thi Sau Ward, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Le Thanh Ha Ta Quang Huy

MANAGING DIRECTOR & PUBLISHER

Jade Huynh

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER ACCOUNT MANAGER

Christian Baker Philippe Dejean Tuong Vi, Anh Tram

SENIOR EDITOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS ASSISTANT EDITORS DESIGNER ADVERTISING EDITORIAL CIRCULATION

Tracie May-Wagner Rainer Sigel, Eve Tedja, Priyanka Elhence, Kenneth Lee, Victoria Lim, Kenneth Lee, Nida Seah, Nimmi Malhotra, Katherine Arteche, Richard Hemming Thao Nguyen, My Hien, Tuan Phong Quoc Vuong Marketing@oriental-media.com Editorial@oriental-media.com Circulation@oriental-media.com

EDITOR WINE EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR DIGITAL WRITER FEATURES WRITER

Nida Seah June Lee Eve Tedja Victoria Lim Sharmaine Loh

SENIOR DESIGNERS

Shee Leng, Dewi M. Singgih

IT & DIGITAL MEDIA DIRECTOR DIGITAL MEDIA PRODUCER CONTRIBUTOR

Jun Evangelista Tu Jie Rui Priyanka Elhenc

REGIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR SENIOR BUSINESS DIRECTOR

Dewi Prasodjo Daniel Poon

MARKETING EXECUTIVE SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER

Sheila Devi Shauna Mun

MANAGING DIRECTOR

Dennis Pua

epicure vietnam is licensed by Media Group Pte Ltd registered in Singapore and produced 4 times a year by Oriental Media Company Ltd 19/24 Doan Thi Diem Street, Ward 1, Phu Nhuan District, HCMC, Vietnam T: +84 28 3844 1612 | E: editorial@oriental-media.com Printed by ITAXA Company 126 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Distributed by Phuong Nam Bookstores 940 Ba Thang Hai Street, Ward 15, District 11, HCMC | Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi Street, Ben Nghe, District 1, HCMC Our media channels

epicurevietnam epicureasia

ON THE COVER Concept Adeline Wong Art direction and styling Yong Woei Na Photos Edmond Ho Recipes Pang Kok Keong of Antoinette Shot at Antoinette

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epicurevietnam epicureasia

epicurevietnam.com epicureasia.com

Copyright by the Publisher. Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the Publisher is strictly prohibited. Views and opinions expressed in epicure are not neccessarily those of the Publisher and the Editors. Although every reasonable care has been taken to ensure the accuracy and objectivity of the information provided in this publication, neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All prices are in Singapore dollars unless otherwise stated and exclude miscellaneous taxes.

Publishing License No. 948-2023/CXBIPH/154-19/TN. Publishing Decision: 107/QĐ-TN Date of License Issued: April 24th, 2023. ISBN Code: 978-604-9965-38-8.

Size 230 x 280mm. Publishing Quantity: 25,000 copies. Registered in April 2023

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COVER STORY 22

In Chocolate Heaven

EPICURE NEWS 34 All-Day Dining With Fusion Flair Modernist Craft Sake Taproom 35

Omakase Meets Molecular Gastronomy Capsule Dining With Epicurean Excellence

36 An Authentic Taste Of Italy A New York State Of Mind 37

Adventurous To The World Of Asian Cuisine Modern Japanese Reflection Of Classics

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GLOBETROTTING EPICURE 38

Sweet Showstoppers

GOURMET INSIDER 44 Yu Chu A New Fire Lit in Stoves 46 Bistro Song Vie A Celebration Space with Unforgettable Views

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48 15 Stamford Tropical Sunday Champagne Brunch 49 Estate A Luxurious Seafood-Centric Buffet 50 Yue Bai Eat Your Chinese Way To Good Health 51 Born Memories In Soulful Dishes

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EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE 52 54 56 58 60

Peaceful Escape Within The City Center A 5-Star Urban Hotel Dining Destination Experience Luxury At Riverfront Boutique Hotel An Idyllic Coastal Retreat On Cam Ranh Bay Gaelic Charms

GOURMET KNOWLEDGE 64 66 69 70 74 80 82 84 86

Purity In Chocolate Asia’s Cacao Renaissance Don’t Sugarcoat It The Caffeine Trail The Great Presenters First Bottled In The 1800s, Now Sparkling In 2023 Subtlety Amid The Flow Of Coffee Culture Kitchen Magic Behind The Bamboo Curtain

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CHEF MASTERCLASS 90 A Fine Dining Chef Grounded In Sustainability 92 No Ordinary Sweet 96 Breaking The Pastry Mould 100 The Happy Baker 102 Ask a Chef

EPICUREAN PROFILE 104 From The Passion Of Ocean To The Seafood Business 108 The Chocolate Entrepreneur 110 Deck The Walls

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WINE KNOWLEDGE

CELLAR CHOICE

114 When Penfolds, Cloudstreet And Mirazur Come Together 116 Wine Lovers United 120 A View On Vinovations

138 Profound Reds 139 3 Woman-Made Fine White Wines 140 TIPPLE TIPS

VINE EXPECTATIONS

BAR AT HOME

122 The Summer Of English Sparkling Wines 128 The Singular Wines Of Montalcino 134 Nectar Empire

142 Native Garden

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CARNIVORE Unique South African Cuisine 215B1 Nguyen Van Huong Street, Thao Dien Ward, Thu Duc City, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam www.facebook.com/carnivorebbq

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RAISING THE BARS 144 Cool Minimalism Meets Warm Hospitality A Wee Dram Of Modern Luxury 145 Magnificent Vistas Invigorating The Mind Taking Life To New Heights 146 Let Your Emotions Flow Creating A Buzz In Hanoi 147 Dark And Mystical Works Of Magic A Night At The Theatre People Come And Go, Only Memories Stay

SEEN & SAVOURED 148 The Dialogue Between The Land, The Sea And Its People

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150 Experience The Essential Elements In A Never-Before-Seen Culinary Event 152 A Whimsical Gastronomic Journey Of World Cuisine To Phu Quoc 154 Le Du In Bangkok Claims No.1 Spot At Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 156 Where To Find

" fine caviars, om the largest caviar producer in the world."

NOW AVAILABLE IN VIETNAM AT:

Seafood Shop & Restaurant www.lapoissonnerie.vn

SEAFOOD & OYSTER BAR

www.dukes-oysterbar.vn

C OV E R S T O R Y

n e v a e H e t a l o c In Ch o

Granted, without seasoned skills and commercial baking equipment, home bakers will be hard-pressed to replicate the sculptured shapes of these chocolate creations.

Still, these six recipes fromAntoinette’s chefowner Pang Kok Keong will enable you to achieve the same f lavours.

2 22e2pei cpui c r euar se ivai .ectonm am

Ch ick en Or T h e Egg The age-old question “which came first, the chicken or the egg?” is the inspiration behind this chocolate egg creation.

It uses a classic flavour combination of chocolate (coral sponge cake) and raspberry (caviar).

Serves 10 Prep time 40 minutes + 3 hours freezing + 6 hours crystallisation Cook time 40 minutes chocolate coral sponge cake • 262g egg white • 28g egg yolk • 21g cocoa powder • 83g icing sugar • 14g corn oil • 42g cake flour » Mix all the ingredients together and pass the batter through a fine sieve strainer. » Fill a 500ml siphon bottle with the batter and charge with two N20 chargers. » In a microwavable container, pour the batter in and bake it in a microwave at high for 90 seconds. » Remove the container from microwave and cool the cake on a wire rack. Once cooled, freeze the cake until needed. raspberry gel • 112g raspberry purée • 175g sugar syrup • 25ml sherry vinegar • 2.25g agar agar powder • 0.75g xanthan gum » In a pot, bring the raspberry purée, sugar syrup, sherry vinegar to a boil.

» Add agar agar powder and xanthan gum.

Stir constantly to avoid lumps and bring the mixture to boil again. Then pour it on a tray to cool the mixture down. » Once cooled, cut it into small pieces and blend them in a food processor until a gellike consistency is achieved. Set aside in chiller until needed. raspberry caviar • 150ml olive oil • 15g gelatin sheet • 175g raspberry purée • 40g sugar • 38ml water • 38g sugar syrup » Place the olive oil in a container and freeze for 3 hours. » Soak the gelatin sheet in ice water until softened. » In a pot, bring all the ingredients expect gelatin sheet and olive oil to boil. » Add in gelatin sheets to the mixture and simmer for 5 minutes, then cool the raspberry mixture down to 30°C. Transfer the cooled mixture into a squeeze bottle. » Remove olive oil from the freezer and give it a good stir. » Using a dropper, drop the raspberry mixture into the cold olive oil to form raspberry caviar. » Using a sieve, remove raspberry caviar

from olive oil and rinse them under cold running water. Then keep chill until needed. chocolate cream • 6.5g gelatin sheet • 350ml milk • 350ml cream • 90g egg yolk • 33g sugar • 250g dark chocolate 66%, chopped » Soak the gelatin sheet in ice water until softened. » In a pot, bring milk and cream to a boil. » In a bowl, whisk egg yolk and sugar thoroughly, then fold in the sugar mixture to the cream mixture and cook at low heat until 85°C. » Strain the mixture over chopped chocolate and whisk thoroughly. Add the softened gelatin sheet to the chocolate mixture. » Transfer the chocolate cream into a container and crystallise for 6 hours. assembly » Pinch a piece of coral sponge to get an irregular and natural shape. » Pipe a small dollop of raspberry gel on it follow by the chocolate cream. » Spoon the raspberry caviar over generously. Garnish with sweet cresses.

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T h e Grey Escape Turn a classic chocolate hazelnut cake into a statement piece with the help of charcoal powder.

Serves 10 Prep time 40 minutes Cook time 40 minutes + 6 hours freezing + 3 hours chilling

» Spread the batter into a 9cm ring mould and bake at 190°C for 9 minutes. » Remove the cake from the oven and let it cool before slicing it into three layers.

chocolate cake • 135g icing sugar • 195g unsalted butter • 135g egg • 115g egg yolk • 195g 66% dark chocolate • 225g egg white • 68g sugar • 135g flour, sieved • 90g ground almond

dark chocolate ganache • 395g 66% dark chocolate • 78g trimoline (from Bake King) • 550ml cream

» With an electrical mixer, beat the icing sugar and unsalted butter until pale and light. » Add egg and egg yolk a little at a time and scrape the side of the bowl. » Melt the dark chocolate to 45°C and add into the mixture. » With an electrical mixer, whip the egg white to soft peaks, then add sugar and whip to medium peaks. » Fold the meringue into the batter gently. » Fold the flour and ground almond into the batter.

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» Chop the chocolate and place in a heat proof bowl, with the trimoline. » In a pot, bring the cream to a boil and pour over the chocolate and trimoline. » Stir to achieve a good mix. » Line the surface with a cling film to prevent ‘skin’ from forming. » Set aside at room temperature. caramelised hazelnut • 300g sugar • 250g hazelnut, roasted • 30g butter » In a pot, dry caramel the sugar. » Add in hazelnut, stir to combine well. » Add in butter, stir to combine well. » Pour the mixture onto a parchment paper to cool it down.

» Roughly chop the caramelised nuts and store them in an airtight container until needed. grey chocolate glaze • 275g white chocolate • 50ml vegetable oil • 1g charcoal powder • 80g almond nib, roasted » In a pot, melt the chocolate, then add in vegetable oil and charcoal powder » Remove the mixture from the pot and blend it with an immersion blender. » Add almond nib into the glaze and set aside until needed. assembly » Line a piece of chocolate cake in a 9cm ring mould, followed by chocolate ganache. » Sprinkle caramelised hazelnut and line another piece of chocolate cake. » Add another layer of chocolate ganache and the last piece of chocolate cake. » Freeze the cake for 6 hours. » Remove from mould and let it thaw in the chiller for 3 hours. » Dip the cake in the grey chocolate glaze.

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T h e Ch ocol ate Tree

For a fruitier flavour, try switching dark chocolate with tangy orange chocolate.

Serves 10 Prep time 40 minutes + 3 hours chilling Cook time 40 minutes chocolate flourless sponge • 160g egg yolk • 240g sugar • 200g egg white • 70g cocoa powder, sieved » With an electrical mixer, whisk egg yolk and 120g sugar until the mixture turns pale and fluffy. » In another electrical mixer, whisk egg white and 120g sugar to a medium peak meringue. » Fold the egg yolk mixture and meringue together and add cocoa powder. » Spread the batter on a baking tray lined with parchment paper to about 6mm and bake at 190°C for 9 minutes. light chocolate ganache • 200g 66% dark chocolate, chopped • 190g cream • 145g whipped cream

» Place the chopped chocolate in a heat proof bowl. » In a pot, bring cream to a boil and pour it over the chopped chocolate. » When the mixture reaches 40°C, add whipped cream and it fold into the chocolate mixture. » Set aside till needed.

• 80g sugar

» Mix all the ingredients together until a crumbly texture is achieved. » Bake at 160°C for 8 minutes. » Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack. Store the chocolate crumble in an airtight container.

assembly » Line a piece of chocolate flourless sponge and layer it with light chocolate ganache, followed by passionfruit cream, top with another layer of chocolate flourless sponge and light chocolate ganacge. » Chill the cake for 3 hours. Then sprinkle it with chocolate crumble and garnish with edible flowers.

• 132g passionfruit purée • 120g egg

• 130g butter

» Soak the gelatin sheet in ice water until softened » In a double boiler, cook the sugar, passionfruit purée and egg to 85°C. chocolate crumble » Remove the mixture from the double • 50g butter boiler and add in the softened gelatin sheet.

• 40g flour » Using an immersion blender, blend • 50g sugar • 50g ground almond butter and the passionfruit mixture together.

• 10g cocoa powder » Chill the passionfruit cream for 3 hours.

• 2g sea salt

passionfruit cream • 1.4g gelatin sheet

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Magic Mush room

Coffee and chocolate? That’s a marriage made in heaven and enjoyed on earth. Crush chocolate cookies to create edible soil for that wow factor.

Serves 10 Prep time 40 minutes + 12 hours soaking Cook time 40 minutes

expresso syrup • 20g sugar • 300ml expresso » Dissolve sugar in the expresso. Set aside.

cocoa sponge cake • 350g egg • 195g sugar • 45g corn flour, sieved • 85g flour, sieved • 40g cocoa powder, sieved » With an electrical mixer, whisk egg and sugar together, until it reaches the ribbon stage. » Mix corn flour, flour and cocoa powder together. » Fold the flour into the batter. » Spread the batter on a baking tray lined with parchment paper and bake at 190°C for 9 minutes.

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chopped chocolate and stir. » Strain the crushed coffee beans from cream and discard the crushed coffee beans. » Whip the coffee cream to soft peak and fold it into the chocolate mixture. » Set aside until needed.

milk chocolate mousse • 75g coffee beans, roasted assembly • 283ml cream » Slice the cocoa sponge cake into three • 275g milk chocolate, chopped • 58ml milk layers. Dip the cocoa sponge cake in espresso syrup. Set aside.

• 20g egg yolk » In a glass, fill it up with milk chocolate • 5g sugar mousse, followed by an expresso-soaked cocoa sponge cake, and repeat. » Using a rolling pin, crush the coffee » Chill for 3 hours before serving. beans and soak the crushed beans in 225ml cream for 12 hours. » In a pot, bring milk and 58ml cream to a boil. Then mix egg yolk and sugar into the mixture until it reaches 85°C. » Pour the egg yolk mixture over the

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Forb id d en Fruit

Here’s a reinterpretation of the Forbidden Fruit: rum, chocolate, flambé apple and vanilla cheese.

Serves 10 Prep time 40 minutes Cook time 40 minutes finger sponge cake • 160g egg yolk • 96g sugar • 280g egg white • 160g flour, sieved • 40g corn flour, sieved » With an electrical mixer, whisk the egg yolk and 16g sugar until pale and fluffy. » With another electrical mixer, whisk the egg white and 80g sugar until stiff. » Fold the above together and add flour and corn flour to the mix. » Spread the batter on a baking tray lined with parchment paper and bake at 190°C for 9 minutes. » Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack.

• 283g dark chocolate 64%, chopped

• 34g egg

• 461ml whipped cream

• 18g egg yolk • 48g sugar

» In a pot, bring milk and cream to a boil.

Then mix the yolk and sugar into the milk mixture and cook to 85°C. » Pour this mixture over the chopped chocolate and stir. » Whip the cream to soft peaks and fold it into the chocolate mixture. » Set aside until needed. flambé caramelised apple • 150g sugar • 30g butter • 1 vanilla pod • 1 green apple, diced • 45ml rum • 15ml lemon juice

» Mix both ingredients together. Set aside until needed.

» In a pot, melt the sugar and cook it to a deep golden colour. » Add butter and stir well. Then add vanilla pod and diced apple until the apples are tender. » Add rum and flambé the pot. » Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice. » Set aside until needed

dark chocolate mousse • 96ml milk • 96ml cream • 35g egg yolk • 18g sugar

vanilla cheese mousse • 3g gelatin sheet • 190g cream cheese • 1 vanilla pod, scraped • 80ml cream

rum syrup • 150g sugar syrup • 60ml dark rum

• 22ml milk

» Soak the gelatin sheet in ice water until softened. » With an electrical mixer, beat the cream cheese and vanilla seeds until soft and smooth, scraping the sides periodically. » Add cream and mix well. Remove from bowl and set aside » With another electrical mixer, whip the egg and egg yolk until the ribbon stage. » In a pot, heat the sugar to 121°C and pour the heated sugar into the egg mixture in a slow and steady stream. » When mixture reaches 35°C, add in the cream cheese mixture a little at a time. » In another pot, melt the gelatin sheet with milk and add it into the mixture. » Remove from bowl and chill the vanilla cheese mousse until needed. assembly » Slice the finger sponge cake into half. » In a glass, fill it with dark chocolate mousse, followed by a finger sponge cake (brushed generously with rum syrup), then caramelised apple. Pipe the cream cheese mousse, followed by another finger sponge cake (brushed generously with rum syrup).

Finishing up with a layer of dark chocolate mousse. » Chill for 3 hours before serving.

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Pop

This is for those who like their chocolate dark, strong and with a slight bitter edge.

Makes 30 pieces Prep time 40 minutes + 4 hours crystallisation Cook time 40 minutes + 24 hours chilling

» Pipe a 3cm ball onto a non-stick parchment paper and lightly tap the tray to remove the air bubbles from the macaron.

Bake at 160°C for 13 minutes. » Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack.

charcoal macaron • 46g charcoal powder dark chocolate ganache • 150g ground almond • 150g icing sugar • 275ml cream • 104g egg white • 197g dark chocolate 70%, chopped • 148g sugar • 60g butter • 36ml water » In a pot, bring cream to a boil. » Pour the cream over chopped chocolate » In a mixing bowl, mix charcoal powder, and stir. ground almond, icing sugar and 52g of » Using an immersion blender, blend in the egg white together, until a homogenous butter. almond paste is achieved. » Set aside for 4 hours to crystalise. » With an electrical mixer, whisk 52g of egg white until soft peaks. assembly » In a pot, heat sugar and water to 121°C, » Pipe a small dollop of chocolate ganache then pour the sugar mixture into the on one side of the macaron and sandwich whisked egg white in a thin and steady with the other size. stream. Then whip the meringue to 45°C. » Place macaron in the chiller for 24 hours » Fold the meringue into the almond before consumption. paste.

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Concept ADELINE WONG Art direction and styling YONG WOEI NA Photos EDMOND HO Videography TU JIE RUI Text VICTORIA LIM Recipes PANG KOK KEONG OF ANTOINETTE Shot at ANTOINETTE

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EPICURE NEWS CURATED BY TRACIE MAY-WAGNER

ALL-DAY DINING WITH FUSION FLAIR LUCA, a new addition to SOKOGROUP’s growing F&B portfolio, as well to the bustling Thảo Điền foodie scene, provides all-day dining options within a chic, modern and comfortable setting. When describing the inspiration behind his menu, Executive Chef An explained that it was a marriage between Vietnamese and European cuisine, showcasing both regional and western flavors and techniques harmoniously in fusion. Stand outs on the menu which beautifully reflect this concept include: Octopus Risotto, a pesto risotto topped with thinly sliced and succulent Japanese octopus, marinated Thai style, Dry Aged Duck Lotus Stem, a refreshing salad comprised of julienned lotus stem, carrot and cucumber, white onion, laksa leaf & mint, tossed in a fish-sauce dressing with paper thin spices of chili for heat, topped with slices of juicy dry-aged duck breast, and served with shrimp crackers, and Phở Bò LUCA, a traditional Vietnamese Phở with beef rib, oxtail, bone marrow roasted and served in the bone, and served with the customary herbs, sauces and lime for acid.

For a cocktail, try their Bitter, Sweet and Strong, perfectly coined and absolutely delightful 49 Xuan Thuy Street, Thao Dien Ward, Distric 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Tel: +84 90 470 68 80

MODERNIST CRAFT SAKE TAPROOM

Located in District 3 in HCMC, Mùa Craft Sake taproom and restaurant is the first small batch sake brewery to barrel, and serve on tap, fresh, unpasteurized and authentic Japanese craft sake in Vietnam. The taproom is a contemporary and casual place to enjoy delicious varieties of their namesake sake flavors, and inspired Izakaya style dishes, designed to be shared and enjoyed family style.

The taproom’s sake bar serves up the freshest seasonal sake on tap, along with cocktails and a variety of craft beers. Mùa Craft Sake F&B Director and Head Chef Tru Lang describes their food as a celebration of Vietnamese local and sustainable ingredients fused with modernist Japanese inspired cuisine. Having spent many years in Japan, he wanted to deliver elevated pub comfort food for guests to pair with their beautiful sake. Sake menu flavor standouts include their Classic, Passion Fruit Cubeb and Pineapple Chili, and to try all three, order a 3 glass Sake Flight. To eat, the Raw Tiger Prawn, Ground Cherry and Passion Fruit dish is outstanding, as are the Pork Tongue and Chicken and Trumpet Mushroom Skewers, and must try Bone Marrow and Đà Lạt Asparagus Beef Shumai 7 Le Ngo Cat Street, Vo Thi Sau Ward, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

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Tel: +84 86 901 07 39

OMAKASE MEETS MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY Opened in January 23 in Thảo Điền, NORIOBI is an utterly spectacular modern Japanese Omakase dining destination.

Executive Chef Nguyễn Hoài Tâm Huyền, Vietnamese born and trained under some of Japan’s most revered Master Chefs, imports all of his scrumptious products daily from Japan, including the rice he uses for Nigiri Sushi, Handrolls and as the base for his stunning rendition of Chirashi Don. Diners are offered the choice of three Omakase flights, with the option of a Sake pairing, and the menu constantly rotates and evolves as per the freshest seafood procured by Chef on the day. Guests may dine at NORIOBI several times within the same month, and taste different breeds of the finest fish and seafood with each and every visit. As we also eat with our eyes, each dish is so artfully presented, with Molecular Gastronomy techniques applied, exhibiting a theatrical and absolutely breathtaking display. Standout dishes include: 4 Types of Sashimi on a dry-ice smoking platter, Hay Smoke Katsuo Tataki within a smoke-filled glass dome, and Cloudy Unagi - Eel, Sansho, Sesame Seeds and Nori, covered by a puffy cloud of Soy Sauce Cotton Candy, and blowtorched to reveal its delicious bite 35 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Tel: +84 090 181 68 80

CAPSULE DINING WITH EPICUREAN EXCELLENCE Nous, in District 1 of Ho Chi Minh City, coins itself a “Capsule Restaurant" delivering a singular epicurean experience with carefully crafted dishes, and their unique and highly personalized approach to their food, and guest interaction. Cozy, intimate and with limited seats in a small dining space, their goal is to have each visitor feel as if they have been carefully knitted into their story, while bringing local farm-to-table ingredients to life in a unique and compelling way, and remaining true to the flavors and regions that they came from. Nous’ Chefs and Servers cook, and plate, elevated and visionary dishes directly in front of their guests, demonstrating the care, attention and creativity which is infused into each and every plate of food. Offering diners a rotating prix fixe, six-course menu, curated in celebration of the season’s available regional products, diners are sure to experience an exclusive culinary journey at Nous, like no other Room 1, 1st Floor, 42Bis Ly Tu Trong Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Tel: +84 90 965 40 96

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AN AUTHENTIC TASTE OF ITALY Located in Vietnam’s Capital Hà Nội, dragonCELLO offers its diners authentic Italian faire, and an ample selection of imported Italian wine, amid beautiful and panoramic views of West Lake. With a skilled staff of Italian-born Chefs manning the kitchen, dragonCELLO delivers a genuine taste of Italy, within an elegantly appointed ristorante. For an Antipasti, try Carpaccio Di Manzo Con Rucola, Carciofini Fritti E Parmigiano Reggiano - thinly sliced raw beef drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice topped with arugula, crispy deepfried artichoke and Parmigiano cheese, or Prosciutto Crudo Di San Daniele DOP plus a portion of Caciocavallo Stagionato Delle Puglie, a type of stretched-curd cheese made from cow's milk and produced in Italy’s Apulia region. For the Secondi, enjoy Ossobuco Con Risotto Allo Zafferano, veal shanks braised with vegetables, white wine and broth and served with saffron risotto, or their Pizza Mediterranea with tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, onion, sun-dried tomato, capers, olives and artichoke. To top off the meal with Dolce, savor their Tiramisu or Torta Barozzi, a rich flourless dark chocolate cake with almonds and peanuts. Fantastico 201 Ve Ho Street, Xuan La Ward, Tay Ho District, Hanoi, Vietnam

Tel: +84 35 578 50 46

A NEW YORK STATE OF MIND

If an authentic New York City circa Roaring 20’s culinary journey sounds desirable, be sure and pay a visit to the incomparable Hudson Rooms at Capella Hotel Hanoi.

The home of oysters, and caviar and lobster OH MY, this restaurant time-warps its diners back to the Golden Age of the Big Apple, embracing the vitality of the city, and its iconic landmarks Grand Central Terminal and Fulton Fish Market. Have a seat at the Oyster Bar and indulge in the freshest French, Irish and Canadian oysters, taste the world’s finest caviar including the highly coveted Golden Beluga, the rarest caviar in the world, and selections of house-cured fish including Coffee Cured Hand-Caught Patagonian Toothfish. In the Main Dining Room, Executive Chef Marcus Meeks presents a delectable menu of NYC themed dishes like Manhattan Clam Chowder with Smoked Bacon and Fingerling Potato, Ruben Sandwich with Turkey Pastrami, Choucrute, Gruyere, Pickles and Russian Dressing, piled high on crispy Sourdough bread, and The Fulton Waterfront, a spectacular seafood tower with Oysters, Mussels, Prawns, Lobster, Scallops, Tuna, Salmon and Snow Crab. And, for a tasty libation, ask Hudson Rooms’ GM William Bravada to whip up a classic Negroni, topped with a locomotive ice cube Capella Hanoi 11 Le Phung Hieu Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam

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Tel: +84 243 987 88 88

ADVENTUROUS TO THE WORLD OF ASIAN CUISINE If you are a fan of the informal dining atmosphere of traditional Japanese Izakaya, then Tora Tora Asian Eatery and Bar in Hà Nội is right up your alley. Offering a selection of small plated pub faire, and lots of grilled on a stick, it’s the perfect spot to meet up with friends, sip on some ice-cold draft beer and get your grub on. Served on wooden skewers, their Pork Belly with Wasabi, Chicken Meatballs with Teriyaki Sauce, Mushrooms in Chicken Skin and Beef with Mala Sauce are not to be missed. Or simply choose a Let’s Meat Up or Tora’s Choice platter with an assortment of grilled deliciousness on sticks. For Small Plates, Taiwanese Chicken Popcorn, Ankimo Fish Liver with Wasabi, Red Ginger and Tora’s Sauce and Tora’s Wagu Sando are fan favorites.

And for a heaftier portion, try a bowl of Pork Katsu Curry, Salmon Fried Rice with Shrimp Sauce or Tora Tora’s Wagu Donburi. To drink, go for a Sakura Bloom or a Passion Garden, both refreshing choices to pair with your meal 21 Hang Hom Street, Hang Gai Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam

Tel: +84 97 680 60 99

MODERN JAPANESE REFLECTION OF CLASSICS A Masu is the traditional Japanese square wooden cup used for drinking sake, and is a time honored symbol of the country’s luxuriant culture and historic traditions. Masu Japanese restaurant in Hà Nội is a love-letter to seafood, combining and celebrating the vibrant beauty of the two distinct cultures of Japan and Vietnam, while delivering imaginative and lucious food to their honored guests. Their elegant menu highlights modern Japanese cuisine, utilizing imaginative techniques to reinterpret classic Japanese dishes, and to introduce unique translations of signature ingredients. Menu examples include: Ozaki Wagu Tartare, Uni Chawanmushi, Buri Truffle Sashimi, Agedashi Tofu, Foie Gras Diakon and Fugo (Pufferfish) Sashimi - highly poisonous if not expertly prepared with exact slicing precision. For the true enthusiast, they also carry some of Japan’s most revered bottled sake including IWA 5 and Dassai Beyond, to pour into their namesake wooden cups 60 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Tran Hung Dao Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam

Tel: +84 85 622 93 39

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GLOBETROTTING EPICURE

SWEET SHOWSTOPPERS Find out where to get your daily dose of desserts in Jakarta and Bali.

BY EVE TEDJA

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Whether it’s a crystal-shaped wagashi in Bali or a tipsy afternoon tea treat in Jakarta, two of Indonesia’s gastronomic destinations have proved that there should always be room for dessert.

The sweet showstoppers are available throughout the day in different pâtisseries, boulangeries and viennoiseries in the city and the island.

JAKARTA 1. NAMELAKA True to its name which means “smooth and creamy” in Japanese, Namelaka has been garnering ardent followers due to its addictive choux creations. Founded by pastry chefs Ivan Setyawan and Yoan Tjahjadi, Namelaka started off in 2016 selling online pastry products made from fine-quality ingredients. Since then, they have opened two in-store shops in Central and North Jakarta, serving more than 15 flavours of choux, cakes and plated desserts.

Unique local flavours like Tape (fermented cassava) sit together with Honey Yuzu, Blue Cheese & Pear, and Snickers. Each choux is topped with craquelin, adding an extra texture to better enjoy the creamy puff.

Its latest must-try creation is Blossom Cake, made of Oolong tea, Bavarian cream, white peach cream, jelly, jam, and almond crunch. Open daily, 10am – 9pm.

Shophaus, Jl. Teuku Cik Ditiro No.36, Menteng. Tel: +62 813 2023 2025 2. CONSERVATORY Located on level 23 of Park Hyatt Jakarta, Conservatory offers four different experiences throughout the day. There’s the Library where one can retreat to or work amid a serene setting filled with objets d’art; the Living Room to socialise and view the city’s iconic landmarks; the open-air Veranda; and last but not least, the Patisserie.

The latter is the domain of pastry chef Ali Saleh, baker John Tobing and their talented team. A fabulous display of Peanut Caramel Tart, Pistachio Raspberry, Date Pecan Choux, and other dainty handcrafted sweets are served to satisfy the guests’ cravings. Combining a killer view of Jakarta’s skyline and impeccable service, it is not a surprise that the Conservatory’s Afternoon Tea is one of the de rigueur experiences in town. Open daily, 10am – 10pm. Jl. Kebon Sirih 17-19. Tel: +62 21 311 90333

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3. CRIO Created as a one-stop culinary destination for dining and drinking, Menteng’s new restaurant is powered and founded by Richie Pratadaja. After spending more than a decade working in the United States, he decided to come back home in 2019 and set up his own place. Since opening its doors last year, he has quickly been recognised as one of the most exciting chocolatiers in town.

Crio offers tapas-style dishes, solid cocktails as well as handcrafted chocolate bonbons, bars, petit gateau, and desserts. A theatrically huge window showcases the tempering process of the chocolate, tempting guests to taste his beautifully displayed creations. Glossy bonbons and bars like Cashew, Pecan Praline, Rum Raisins, and more can be purchased for takeaway. However, there is no better way to enjoy a special treat than to indulge in something like Xocolatl – dark chocolate mousse, cremeux, sponge, caramelised puffed rice, hazelnut praline – immediately, and preferably accompanied by a glass of cocktail and a live jazz band. Open daily, 7am – 10pm/2am on weekends. Jl. Teuku Cik Ditiro No.43. Tel: +62 812 1001 5969

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4. RAFFLES PATISSERIE Putra Anom has been quietly garnering followers because of his creative takes on cakes, special hampers and afternoon tea. As Raffles Jakarta’s pastry chef, he is responsible for creating beautifully handcrafted morsels for the hotel’s Raffles Patisserie, Arts Café by Raffles’ highly coveted Sunday brunches, and other special events.

His prowess in marrying French pastry techniques with Indonesian flavours and produce is evident in Raffles Jakarta’s signature Tipsy Tea with Moët & Chandon. With a glass of Champagne in hand, guests are invited to savour delicacies such as Jasmine Honey Choux, Apricot & Elderflower, Pistachio Rose Tart, Orange Blossom Chocolate, and Yuzu Lavender Sphere. Open daily, 8am – 9pm. Ciputra World, Jl. Prof. Dr. Satrio Kav.3- 5. Tel: +62 855 8155 888

BALI 1. POWDER ROOM Room 4 Dessert, the venerated dessert establishment in Ubud, has opened a new candy store next door. Guests are welcome to “grab and grow” their fresh and delicious sweet treats or take some time to sit down and slowly devour a cup of soft-serve ice cream (soursop yoghurt with palm sugar syrup and housemade 67 percent toblerone shard, anyone?). True to the ethos of R4D, everything is made from local ingredients, natural colourings and without preservatives. Find classic twists such as Botanical Bombolonis with delightful fillings like vanilla cream and mulberry with housemade ricotta and Garden Gummies made of rosella kombucha. Open Tuesday – Sunday, 11am – 9pm. Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud.

Tel: +62 812 2837 5032

2. KOHAKU Deriving its inspiration from a 200-year-old traditional Japanese confectionery, Kohaku handcrafts visually stunning and naturally made sweet gems from various dried fruits, herbs, spices, flowers, and teas. The name comes from the word kohakuto, a seaweedbased agar and sugar wagashi.

A collaboration between Daijiro Horikoshi, Heru Young and Francois Milcent, Kohaku offers a unique Zen-like experience in Canggu. Guests are invited to have a seat and taste the Butterfly Pea and Volcanic Sea Salt in the form of aquamarine gemstone crystal; a crunchy, amber-like Pistachio and Apricot or a tourmaline-shaped Black Sesame. Pair the gems with organic tea from Jatiluwih or bring them home as a souvenir in a box.

Open Tuesday – Sunday, 10am – 6pm. Jl. Pantai Berawa.

Tel: +62 813 3710 3936

3. BUTTERMAN

Less than two years after opening its first store in Canggu, this croissanterie has just expanded to Jakarta at the end of last year. The secret of their success? A stream of freshly baked viennoiserie, premium quality ingredients and consistently great products. Excellent flaky, buttery and layered croissants are the backbone of Butterman but there are other reasons why queues are formed every day in front of its small shop even before they open at 6.30am. The reasons are Chocolatine, Raspberry Pistachio Roll, and Eggy Tart – just a few of chef Stephane Simond’s creations. Open daily, 6.30am onwards. Jl. Pantai Berawa No. 10.

Tel: +62 811 396 00050

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4. KANVAZ PÂTISSERIE BY VINCENT NIGITA Located in front of Kanvaz Village Resort Seminyak, the sleek space houses a retail outlet and an outdoor patio. A striking blue monochrome colour runs through the interior, showcasing the colourful creations at the counter with great aplomb.

Guests are constantly dazzled by the array of pastries, croissants, macarons, and chocolate bonbons offered by Vincent Nigita, the pastry wizard and his team. Stop by for a mid-day treat in the form of Pistachio Paris-Brest or St. Honore – a chic assembly made of vanilla mascarpone chantilly, salted caramel, choux, dulcey, caramel mousse, and puff pastry. Open daily, 7am -10pm. Jl. Petitenget No. 188. Tel: +62 812 3707 4339

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5. POTTERY CAFE Situated on the ground floor of Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach, Pottery Cafe is a discreet, cosy place to relax, work or meet up with friends.

With mismatched chairs, cheerful yellow-dominated interior, and indoor and outdoor seating, enjoy the aroma of coffee wafting through the air and the gentle whirring of espresso machines. Make time to have their Sereni-Tea Afternoon Tea experience.

Served in a three-tiered wooden tower, find more than enough sweet and savoury delicacies for two persons. The Es Degan Macaron, Nastart, Pisang Ijo Mousse, and Kolak Pisang are twists to classic Indonesian sweets and desserts. Pair them with manual brew single origin coffee from Bali, Sulawesi or Aceh. Open daily, 7am – 7pm.

Jl. Camplung Tanduk No.10, Seminyak. Tel: +62 361 2099999

6. SUNDARA Refined cakes and desserts from Four Seasons Resorts Bali’s executive pastry chef David Peduzzi can be tasted at Sundara, Jimbaran’s beachfront culinary and lifestyle destination. The French chef unpacks a lot of experience and artistry into his creations from more than 17 years working in six Four Seasons properties in five countries.

Be it a leisurely poolside lunch or a romantic dinner date, taste his creations on the menu such as All About Mango – a homage to the quintessence tropical fruit. It is a delightfully refreshing dessert made of crunchy meringue, mango cream and sorbet, passion fruit sauce, and jeruk nipis marmalade. Alternatively, order a box of nine Sundara’s signature cakes to take home. Open daily, 11am – 1am. Jl. Bukit Permai, Jimbaran.

Tel: +62 361 708333

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GOURMET INSIDER

YU CHU

A New Fire Lit in Stoves Yu Chu (meaning “Imperial Kitchen” in Chinese) at InterContinental Saigon is regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in town, recently had the pleasure to welcome a new Chinese Head Chef, Chef Ooi Kar Kim, and along with him inspiring anticipation for its culinary scene.

A CHEF AND HIS PASSION

Born in Penang, Malaysia, into a family with a rich Chinese heritage and surrounded by the colourful cuisine culture of the country, the young Chef Kim started working in cooking-related jobs as early as fifteen years old. Since starting his professional career and for more than two decades, Chef Kim has always been on the journey to expand his cooking knowledge and skills. This culinary voyage sent Chef Kim to many countries and regions across Asia, from Japan to Taiwan, Hong Kong to Singapore, Dubai to Sri Lanka and then, to Vietnam.

"I am glad that even though my career decisions kept me only around Asia, they pushed me to many countries with distinctive culinary cultures and, what I love the most, ingredients to cook with." Chef Kim shared.

Coming to InterContinental Saigon, Chef Kim still enjoys his routine of exploring the local markets to put them into his delectable crafts. His amicable connection with his new team at Yu Chu, on the other hand, allows Chef Kim to settle in easily and start cooking up sensational dishes.

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FRESH OFF THE KITCHEN

Since his joining in February, Chef Kim and his team have come around to update many well-established recipes on the menu and more importantly, bring in new tastes. Officially available starting April 14th, the new à-la-carte menu overhauled many well-established recipes and added in over 90 new dishes. The new menu reflects the insights of Chef Kim, most noticeable in the presentation of the foods, and the utilisation of eclectic ingredients.

Among the dishes, you can find some of the Chinese most famous names like Laziji (Chongqing spicy chicken) or the "Wallvaulting Buddha", famed for its superior combination of seafood and the tale of its name. Some of Yu Chu's most recognisable dishes are still around for long-time fans to enjoy, including the Duck meat, foie gras and truffle dumpling, or the artistic "Black Swan" fried taro with barbecued pork. Our guest-loved Peking Duck remains and with elevated methods to cook the meat part, such as Stewing in Chinese wine and tomatoes, bean curd broth, or Wok-frying with spicy black beans.

The most exciting new additions are Chef Kim's signatures, with delicacies ranging from appetisers, artisanal dim sum to the most lavish main courses and charming desserts.

Some of the best dishes that you should try include the Golden prawns with fruity mayonnaise, which perfectly harmonises the texture of prawns with the silky sauce and diced pieces of fresh fruit. The Five Blessing hot & cold appetisers combination makes sure everyone at the table starts the meal with their favourite flavours. The Chef's Soup of the Day brings a delightful surprise every day whilst the Chilly vinaigrette lobster or Double-cooked beef short ribs is always a superb choice for the main course.

Regardless of how one will savour the new menu, Chef Kim hopes the new menu can accompany both old and new guests of Yu Chu on a more exciting culinary journey with Chinese cuisine. And we can look forward to more appetising works of Chef Kim in the future.

YU CHU RESTAURANT 1st Floor, InterContinental Saigon Hotel M: 028 3520 9999 E: dine@icsaigon.com W: www.icsaigon.com/yuchu

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GOURMET INSIDER

BISTRO SONG VIE

A Celebration Space with Unforgettable Views There is nothing quite like enjoying a wonderful meal alongside a picturesque landscape, and Villa Song Saigon’s Bistro Song Vie provides exactly that.

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ituated along the river in Thao Dien D2, the restaurant caters to a wide variety of clients, from couples seeking an intimate and romantic dinner for two, groups of friends and family commemorating a special occasion like a birthday or wedding, and companies presenting largescale corporate events. No matter how big or small the occasion, this scenic riverside dining destination is a perfect venue for any social gathering.

For weddings, couples may choose to exchange their vows against the serene backdrop of boats slowly drifting by, and then proceed with their reception, nestled within Villa Song’s lush garden grounds. For corporate functions, private parties and other occasions, Bistro Song Vie offers ample event spaces, for up to 300 guests, both indoors and out. The restaurant’s well appointed interior features floor to ceiling glass doors and walls, with panoramic riverviews, and an ambiance second to none.

Regarding the cuisine, Bistro Song Vie offers a diverse menu of traditional Vietnamese, Asian and International fare, prepared by use of only the freshest local ingredients. Paired with selections of wine and craft cocktails, a satisfying gastronomic experience is promised for all attending event guests.

With great food, stunning views and a lovely atmosphere, Bistro Song Vie is a perfect choice for those seeking a memorable celebration venue.

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BISTRO SONG VIE 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong Street, Thao Dien Ward Thu Duc City, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: +84 28 3744 6090 l Email: info@villasongsaigon.com M: +84 77244 6090 l Website: villasong.com

GOURMET INSIDER

15 STAMFORD

Tropical Sunday Champagne Brunch Here’s an exciting reason to drag yourself out of the house on a Sunday: 15 Stamford by Alvin Leung at The Capitol Kempinski Hotel Singapore recently launched the new Tropical Sunday Champagne Brunch. The luxurious affair brings together a wide variety of live food stations, thematic cocktails and Telmont champagne, as well as live musical entertainment.

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eafood lovers won’t be disappointed with the selection here, with an abundance of shellfish and crustaceans ranging from baby lobsters and tiger prawns to blue mussels, clams, and seasonal oysters. Freshly sliced sashimi and sushi are also available to whet the appetite of Japanese food fanatics. The verdant salad stations and charcuterie corner will soon beckon you to indulge in fresh vegetables, jamón, an assortment of cheeses, and smoked fish.

Singaporean and Indian favorites are part of the buffet as well, while fried rice, pastas, and various noodle dishes are sure to satisfy your carb cravings. Make a beeline for the Grill Carving and Roast sections, boasting a succulent selection comprised of Wagyu Beef Hanging Tender, Pork Belly Char Siew, Angus Beef Ribeye, and Pasture-fed Lamb Leg. End on a sweet note and partake in the treats in the Dessert station, with favorites like ice cream, chocolate fondue, cookies, cakes, donuts, and more. P

Visit 15 Stamford by Alvin Leung at The Capitol Kempinski Hotel Singapore, 15 Stamford Road, Tel: 6715 6871

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ESTATE

A Luxurious Seafood-Centric Buffet Hilton Singapore Orchard’s all-day buffet restaurant, Estate, has relaunched the popular Lobster, Crab and Seafood Buffet, which was first introduced in August 2022. Today, the seafood extravaganza returns once a week for dinner on Thursdays to the delight of both hotel guests and Singapore’s hardcore seafood lovers.

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tarting at $158++/adult, the extravaganza starts at the Raw & Seafood Kitchen station, featuring cold seafood like Maine lobsters, snow crab, crayfish, tiger prawns, mussels, clams, and scallops. Crowd favorites like freshly shucked seasonal oysters and an assortment of sashimi are also available. Moving on to hot dishes, make a beeline for personal favorites like the Lobster Thermidor, Soft-shell Crab Burger, and Lobster Tagliatelle. For flavors closer to home, Chili and Black Pepper Crabs, White Crab Bee Hoon, Mala Yabbies, and Crispy Cheung Fan with Soft-shell Crab await.

To complete the experience, $208++/adult gets you free flow drinks, inclusive of red and white wine, beer, and soft drinks. For the ultimate indulgence, $238++/person will include free flow champagne, red and white wine, beer, and soft drinks.

Visit Estate at Hilton Singapore Orchard, Level 5, Tel: 6831 6270

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YUE BAI

Eat Your Chinese Way to Good Health Modern Chinese restaurant Yue Bai, which is located on Duxton Road, puts simplicity, elegance, and fine Chinese flavors front and center.

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he restaurant’s interiors, reminiscent of a traditional teahouse, is also more than just a space for eating – it’s a celebration of Chinese art, literature, philosophy, and the personal ethos of co-owner and chef Lee Hongwei.

At Yue Bai, ‘shí liáo’ (or dietary therapy) is the pillar of Chef Hongwei’s culinary approach, where food is used to counteract or prevent disease, while enhancing wellbeing. The menu, then, presents balanced dishes and familiar flavors, with the aim of delivering holistic wellness for mind and body. Highlights of the a la carte menu include the Crispy Burdock, a root vegetable that helps lower blood sugar, finished with Sesame and Spice Powder.

Other must-order starters include the Australian Lamb Jelly, Black Bean, Passionfruit-infused Pumpkin, and the Deep-fried Organic Purple Rice Cake, XO Sauce, Rice Puff, and Spring Onions.

Soothing and nourishing double- boiled soups are expertly executed here, such as the Double-boiled Silkie Chicken Soup, Jasmine Flower, Dried Longan, and Wolfberries, where the gentle, savory essence of chicken is complemented by the heady aroma of Jasmine flowers. Meat and seafood offerings are also done well at Yue Bai, with personal favorites being the Crisp-fried Pork Cartilage finished with a piquant mandarin peel sauce and served atop a crispy ring made from tofu and millet.

Visit Yue Bai at 33 Duxton Road. Tel: 9721 8055

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BORN

Memories in Soulful Dishes We won’t fault you for not immediately knowing who Chef Zor Tan is. But after dining at Born, his fine dining restaurant opened in partnership with 1855 F&B, you’ll know exactly what he’s all about – finesse, nostalgia, and translating memories into soulful dishes and generously sharing it with the world.

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meal at Born is more than a journey. It’s a fun, exciting, and immersive experience that starts with eight impeccably executed snacks that call to mind cai fan favorites from his parents’ stall. Meanwhile, the dishes that follow represent important moments from his personal history, starting with the Buri, Galangal, and Daikon – an homage to his culinary journey that started at a Japanese restaurant.

The Chicken Liver, Smoked Oil, and Forest Mushroom is a rich, creamy dish bursting with earthiness from Morel mushrooms, and at the same time, a tribute to his mentor, Chef Andre Chiang, known for his foie gras parfait.

Another impeccable dish inspired by an important milestone is the Fish Maw, Chinese Cabbage, and Smoked Eel – a collagenrich dish dedicated to Chef Tan’s wife when she gave birth to their first child.

Visit Born at 1 Neil Road, Tel: 9270 8718

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EPICUREAN LIFEST YLE

Peaceful Escape within

THE CITY CENTER

Craving a mini escape from the mundane everyday but remain within the city’s center? Then, look no further than Sedona Suites Ho Chi Minh City.

Housed within the city’s premiere shopping and lifestyle destination Saigon Centre, this 5-star luxury serviced apartment is the ultimate choice for a chic Staycation in the heart of Saigon’s District 1.

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edona, a brand name synonymous with warm Asian hospitality, has set a benchmark for modern accommodations. With 195 perfectly appointed stateof-the-art studios and suites to choose from, all with breathtaking panoramic views of the city, it is the ultimate destination to escape, unwind, and relax.

Sedona Suites promises sublime luxury accommodations, amenities, and service, second to none. The hotel caters to discerning guests with various suite types and studio configurations, providing for different needs and length of stay for business and leisure travellers. Studio rooms and onebedroom suites are well suited for singles and couples on shortterm stay, while the two and three-bedroom and one-bedroom suites offer ample space and comfort for couples and families

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requiring a longer residency. Guest amenities include everything a discerning guest would expect: housekeeping service, highspeed wifi connectivity, separate air-conditioning system control, in-room entertainment system via IPTV with Bose sound bar, mini bar fridge and microwave, in-room safe, coffee and tea making facilities, 24-hour reception and security, laundry and dry-cleaning services, room service, airport transfers and more.

Guests may take a dip in their swimming pool, or all-day-dining at Sky28 restaurant, serving up delicious Asian favourites and International culinary delights. California Centuryon Fitness Centre beckons the work-out buff, while Saigon Centre provides the ultimate designer shopping experience with numerous levels of curated boutiques, and the world famous Takashimaya department store, all within the same complex.

Sky28 restaurant, on the 28th floor, delivers its dining guests captivating views of the city, and a bounty of delicious Vietnamese, Asian, and International options for Breakfast, Lunch, Afternoon-Tea, and Dinner. In the morning, guests may indulge in the abundant buffet, or simply order off the a-la-carte menu. Lunch provides a 2 or 3 course Business Set Menu with choice of 6 mains, and vegetarian options available upon request.

For Afternoon Tea, they offer Classic and Premium selections for 2 pax of savoury and sweet treats, inclusive of a multitude of tea varieties, and two glasses of bubbles with the Premium service.

At Dinner, guests may enjoy a generous set menu of either Asian or Western dishes, perfectly prepared, and at a very reasonable price point. While lounging by the pool, catching up on a good book, guests may nosh on a variety of delicious dishes, delivered and served with a smile by Sedona’s hospitable staff, without needing to move an inch from their reclined lounge chairs.

With Location, Location, Location as key, the Sedona Suites Saigon is just a stone's throw from some of the city’s top tourist attractions. Visit the iconic Notre Dame Cathedral, the nearby Ben Thanh Market for trinkets and souvenirs, the picturesque French Colonial Opera House, Reunification Palace, home to past South Vietnamese presidents prior to the Vietnam War of 1975, and the War Museum, housing predominantly American exhibits such as US armoured vehicles, artillery pieces, bombs, and infantry weapons used during the Vietnam War. Whether it be a short staycation or a longer-term stay, Sedona Suites Ho Chi Minh City is the ultimate choice for its prime location, friendly service, luxury accommodations and romantic dining options.

SEDONA SUITES HO CHI MINH CITY 67 Le Loi Boulevard, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam www.sedonavietnam.com

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EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

A 5-STAR URBAN HOTEL Dining Destination

New World Saigon stands proudly as a leading MICE and leisure hotel, smack in the heart of the city’s bustling and vibrant District 1. It offers 533 newly renovated guest rooms and suites, state-of-the-art facilities, and premiere dining options for local Vietnamese and tourists alike.

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ust a few short steps from Ben Thanh Metro Station, guests may choose to experience the utmost “New World” flavors at Parkview Café, an International eatery featuring a vast seafood buffet, Black Vinegar, a highly acclaimed modern Cantonese restaurant, and Whisper Bar & Lounge, a fun filled late-night cocktail and dining club. Whether it’s for a business rendezvous or leisurely get together, New World Saigon is an ideal spot for all occasions, where chic lodgings and a wonderful culinary journey await.

One of the dining options at the New World Saigon Hotel, Parkview Café, presents unique offerings like a Brunch Seafood Buffet each weekend, for diners who enjoy an abundance of only the freshest seafood. In the afternoons and evenings, ample 5 4 epicurevietnam

selections of Vietnamese, Asian and International cuisine are available for their diners' delight. And, it also presents a lavish 5-star setting for client gatherings and business meetings, both large and small.

Just up the escalator, on the first floor of the New World Saigon Hotel, sits Black Vinegar Restaurant, exhibiting an airy, elegant and colorful interior, with its modernist design reflected in their inventive Cantonese food. From Buffet to Dim Sum to À la carte, the wide variety of menu options will suit every diners’ palate. With a range of inventive lunch packages and cuisine sets available, guests may experience sublime flavor, thanks to the expert skill of their team of chefs, specifically Cantonese Chef Sam Liang.

At the cozy and elegant Whisper Patisserie, a selection of freshly baked pastries, teas, and coffees wait, and at Whisper Bar & Lounge, beer, wine and hand-crafted cocktails are offered. An ideal location for business meetings and social gatherings with friends, delicate meals and snacks are served throughout the day and evening, plus their substantial gin and whiskey collection can not be missed for an after-five indulgence.

Visitors may choose from a number of offerings, beginning with a highly appointed room, chock full of luxe amenities, for as little as VND 3,910,000; their valued customers consistently find the New World Saigon Hotel's spaces to be their home away from home. Their talented chefs' delectable fare is available for the mere price of VND 490,000 to start, including a Lunch Set Menu, Weekend All-You-Can-Eat, and much more. Additionally, they offer weekend Seafood Buffet Parties, with a range of available promotional discounts. For those who enjoy Spanish style Tapas, take advantage of the new Tapas menu, paired with a selection of fine wines, while relaxing to live music, and a lovely ambiance at Whisper Bar & Lounge.

New World Saigon Hotel is also an excellent choice for private meetings, encouraging a sense of balance between work and leisure. The hotel’s attentive staff will undoubtedly present their clients with a memorable and first rate experience.

Whether it be for a relaxing stay, delicious dining, a funfilled night out, or business meeting, New World Hotel Saigon is a fantastic choice for a comfortable, tranquil and quality respite in Ho Chi Minh City.

NEW WORLD SAIGON HOTEL 76 Le Lai Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam saigon.newworldhotels.com l newworldhotels.com T: +84 28 3822 8888

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EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

Experience Luxury at

RIVERFRONT BOUTIQUE HOTEL Villa Song Saigon in Thao Dien, District 2 offers a rejuvenating escape from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City life. Offering 23 well-appointed rooms and suites, each space is unique in size, decor and layout, it promises maximum style and comfort amid breath-taking views of the Saigon River.

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eaturing several luxury amenities, guests may choose to take a refreshing dip in Villa’s outdoor salt water swimming pool, partake in a vigorous workout in their gym, or simply lounge outdoors, watching the boats go by, while sipping on Happy Hour sunset cocktails.

Bistro Song Vie, their onsite riverfront restaurant, offers delicious Breakfast, Brunch, Lunch and Dinner options, skillfully prepared by their expert chefs, using only the freshest locally sourced ingredients.

Looking to take a tour of the region? The Concierge Desk can arrange a plethora of interesting experiences to enjoy, like “Saigon After Dark Tour”, “Cu Chi Tunnel Tour”, “Saigon Craft Beer Tour” and more. If you simply wish to visit the city center, Villa Song Saigon offers a complimentary hotel shuttle boat service, upon request. It takes a mere 10 to 15 minutes from the Villa’s private pier to Bach Dang Quay, located within walking distance of the most popular coffee shops, bars, eateries, and attractions in the city.

Whether you’re looking for a mini Staycation, or a longer holiday with loved ones, Villa Song is the perfect choice for your next vacation stay.

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VILLA SONG SAIGON 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong Street, Thao Dien Ward Thu Duc City, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam T: +84 28 3744 6090 l Email: info@villasongsaigon.com M: +84 77244 6090 l Website: villasong.com

EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

AN IDYLLIC COASTAL RETREAT on Cam Ranh Bay

The Wyndham Garden Cam Ranh, under Wyndham Hotels & Resorts, blends the highest international hospitality standards with a local Vietnamese identity, unique to the region.

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ituated along the crystal clear, jade green Cam Ranh bay, amid the golden sunshine of the Khánh Hòa Province of Central Vietnam, the Wyndham Garden Cam Ranh is a modern resort featuring 171 Villas, equipped with private pools and modern kitchens, full spa facilities, a gym, a library, a Kid's Club, an outdoor playground and cinema, amongst its guest amenities. Located a mere 2km from Cam Ranh International Terminal, Wyndham Garden Cam Ranh reveals its own unique imprint of Vietnamese flavor, aiming to be an ideal resort for both international and Vietnamese multigenerational families’ enjoyment.

The resort facilities have been methodically designed to meet the entire family’s needs. The library, with a wide variety of books and games, is a place where all may gather to enjoy quality time. The Kid’s Club was thoughtfully conceived to provide hours

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of entertainment, through the teaching of artistic and engaging skills. Drawing, animal-balloon making, kite making, craft paper class and sand picture design are just a few of its offerings, and all under the watchful eye of the resort’s Nanny, so Mom and Dad are granted the precious time to relax and unwind. In the evenings, the outdoor cinema becomes a comfortable lounging space where the whole gang may gather and enjoy yummy snacks and a family-friendly films.

From morning to evening, the culinary offerings at Wyndham Garden Cam Ranh are outstanding. As breakfast is the most important meal of the day, Garden Restaurant serves a bountiful and satisfying buffet of Asian and European dishes, served within a modern-meets-rustic space, as well as à la carte options of local specialties for lunch and dinner. Breeze Restaurant provides a wide selection of Asian, Vietnamese and Western-style seafood, poultry, meat and vegetarian dishes, which will please a refined palate.

And, as Cam Ranh Bay is endowed with a long, pristine and stunning coastline, supplying an abundance of fresh-caught seafood, guests may enjoy a local fisherman’s daily fare within the comfort and privacy of their villa with BBQ in Villa package, for a minimum of 4 guests. Or coming to Breeze Restaurant with ocean view to enjoy a romantic candle-lit dinner for

two, featuring a specially curated menu of European dishes, thoughtfully prepared and served by dedicated chefs.

The gastronomic experience at Wyndham Garden Cam Ranh can be made even more fulfilling through the attendance of a cooking class in Breeze Bar. Guided by Chef, diners are taught how to make delicious and traditional Vietnamese dishes like spring rolls, pancakes, pho, and braised fish, using simple and easy-to-remember recipes…

In Wyndham Garden Cam Ranh, the connection between the design of the modern and spacious villas, and the surrounding green space infused with the beauty of the sea and sky, creates a truly harmonized and tranquil atmosphere within the resort’s ecosystem. The clean fresh air, ocean breeze, and breathtaking natural scenery seems to ease the typical hot and humid weather of the Central Vietnamese province. If you are looking to escape the hustle and bustle of the city this summer, plan a trip to Cam Ranh and be sure to visit Wyndham Garden Cam Ranh. It’s a convenient, serene and idyllic destination for families and couples alike.

WYNDHAM GARDEN CAM RANH Website: www.wyndhamgardencamranh.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/WGCRVN Hotline: 0258 3996888

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EPICUREAN LIFESTYLE

Owners Iwan and Manuela Wirth fell in love with the quaint charms of an old Victorian Inn and transformed it into a luxurious boutique hotel.

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Gaelic

CHARMS

Boasting intricate craftsmanship using the finest local materials. The Fife Arms brings understated grandeur to Scotland’s hotel scene.

BY VICTORIA LIM

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or many years, The Fife Arms was a down-at-heel Victorian coaching hotel in Braemar catering to budgetconscious travellers. Although the property has a rich history, it is named after the Duke of Fife, who married the granddaughter of Queen Victoria - it was large, draughty and forgettable.

Still, Braemar has played host for the past 186 years to the Braemar Gathering, a Highland Games spectacular that the Queen attends from her nearby perch at Balmoral. Its history was precisely what drew Iwan and Manuela Wirth, the Swiss power couple behind renowned gallery Hauser & Wirth, to this humble inn. The duo bought the property in December 2014, closed it for four years of renovation, and finally reopened it in January.

From the outside, The Fife Arms still looks like something out of a Wes Anderson movie with its white and red gabled roof and gilded signage. Inside, it couldn’t be more different and shows off the creative vision of interior designer Russell Sage.

Ninety rooms have been reduced to 46. A spa has been added alongside a library, playroom, garden and village bar, but that’s only part of the story.

ARTISTS’ IMPRESSIONS

Art is very much part of the hotel’s DNA; more than 14,000 works of art, antiques, and objects have been integrated into the rooms, corridors and corners. You can spot a Louise Bourgeois spider in the hotel courtyard and Victorian taxidermy exhibits, original drawings and installations on the walls by artists-inresidence Gideon Summerfield and Alec Finlay. There is also an original Picasso and a Lucian Freud on the walls, plus a psychedelic hand-painted ceiling by Zhang Enli in the hotel’s drawing room, which is inspired by topographic maps and the marbling patterns found within local quartz specimens.

A hauntingly beautiful oil piece by Lucian Freud

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A psychedlic handpainted ceiling by renowned artist, Zhang Enli

The Indian Suite features interesting details like a mini gong and Indian miniatures.

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“We invited several artists for residences in Braemar and each responded with very different works. Alec Finlay created ‘gathering’ which tells the story of place names, some of which had been long forgotten. James Prosek created The Fife Arms’ own coat of arms, which includes the Flying Stag, the hotel’s public bar. Within the bar, Characters of Braemar hang - a series of portraits of some of the village’s residents who were drawn by Gideon Summerfield, a graduate of the Royal Drawing School,” shares Iwan.

Hard to get pieces are also on display. The Front Hall has a portrait by Freud, a chandelier commissioned by Richard Jackson, a piano that was a collaboration between Mark Bradford and Steinway, and a spectacular 19th century fireplace that is hand-carved with scenes from Robbie Burns’ works. A watercolour painting hangs inside the hotel’s entrance - a stag’s head painted by Her Majesty Queen Victoria of a stag that was shot by her Highlands Servant, John Brown. “It’s one of the few works by Queen Victoria outside the royal collection,” says Manuela. One was fashioned in longstanding Scottish tradition from hundreds of antlers ethically sourced by Gareth Guy of The Horn Shop in Braemar. Another was created by Los Angelesbased American artist Richard Jackson, who interpreted this Scottish decorative classic by using cast glass antlers lit from within. Both are displayed at The Flying Stag.

STORIES ABOUND

Each of the 46 rooms and suites is dedicated to Braemar’s visitors, including monarchs and writers (Lord Byron, Robert Louis Stevenson). Flying Stag, a jewel-box cocktail bar, is named after couturier Elsa Schiaparelli.

“All stories have been meticulously researched with the help of local historians and they are then retold using different design elements. For example, Robert Louis Stevenson, who began to write Treasure Island while on holiday in Braemar, stayed in a house a stone’s throw from the hotel; poet Lord Byron (1788-1824), who as a child lived for a while at a farm just east of Ballater with his Scottish mother, Catherine Gordon of Gight. The stay had a profound effect and local landmarks feature in his works, such as Dark Lochnagar written in 1807; and Frances Farquharson, (1903-1991), the editor of American Vogue. And even the smallest touches have a story. The room keys are attached to a brass cast of a native freshwater mussel. These mussels are endangered

in Scotland and we support a charity, Pearls in Peril, who are working to reintroduce them,” says Iwan.

The suites, in particular, perfectly showcase The Fife Arms’ rich history and culture, The opulent Indian Suite, which is inspired by Abdul Karim, the confidant of Queen Victoria, is fitted with local timber and constructed using traditional joinery methods. The table was hewn from a single piece of oak by a hand blade, which took seven weeks to make. The Queen’s Suite is embellished with stuccowork and the bathroom is surrounded with blue and white Azulejo-tiled murals from 1901; the King’s Suite has a spectacular wooden coffered ceiling; and the Arch Suite still retains an 18th century fireplace.

“The Fife Arms combines our love for Scotland and the country’s traditional crafts with our years of working with some of the world’s leading contemporary artists. With Braemar being very much our happy place, we hope that people will share in the magic of this historic village,” shares Manuela.

The Prince Albert Suite includes Scottish touches like a tartan linen, and figurines that once belonged to Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha.

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PURITY IN CHOCOLATE

Cacao Barry, a global chocolate brand by Barry Callebaut, introduces WholeFruit chocolate that is made from 100 percent pure cacaofruit.

The E-Snack

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ood chocolate anchors a dish with well-balanced bittersweet flavours along with an irresistible aroma that wafts across the dining room. But great chocolate, well, great chocolate transforms – rich, fruity and utterly complex with a robust body that can only be described as pure ecstasy for the palate and the nose.

But great chocolate doesn’t come easy. Some, made from cacao beans of inferior provenance – and therefore quality – require the crutch of additives like emulsifiers and sweeteners to pass muster; others fail to hold up when examined under an ethical lens, leaving a sour taste in the mouth that can’t be washed away.

Enter WholeFruit chocolate, the latest product by Cacao Barry (a leading Gourmet brand by Barry Callebaut) that is aimed primarily for discerning artisans looking to solve both pain points. For one, it is made entirely from pure cacaofruit – “no refined sugars, no vanilla, no lecithin”, the brand declares – resulting in dark chocolate that contains around 40 percent less sugar than its consumed contemporaries. Both the beans and fresh pulp are used to craft the chocolate, resulting in a unique zesty and fruity flavour profile. It is perfectly suited for pastry and confectionery applications, so watch this space in the coming months for exciting creations by top chefs as they discover the possibilities of WholeFruit chocolate.

SUSTAINABLE AND INNOVATIVE

Furthermore, the product tackles another issue – chocolate’s bittersweet relationship with the environment. Forests in cacaoproducing countries have been cut down in swathes to make way for cacao plants. The world’s largest exporter of cacao, the Ivory Coast, has reportedly lost four-fifths of its forests in the last half-century.

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Cacao Barry ambassador chef Frank Haasnoot working with Evocao

LIMITLESS PLAYGROUND FOR CHEFS WholeFruit EvocaoTM chocolate is markedly bright and citrusy with accents of tropical fruits like mango, lemon, mandarin and passion fruit. It makes an excellent companion for a tangy passion fruit or orange financier, as a rich glaze or dipping cream. It would work just as beautifully taking centre stage in a decadent, fudgy brownie; or as the lynchpin of a chocolate tart, counterpointed with citrus or berries.

Up to 70 per cent of the actual cacaofruit is usually discarded as well, since it is only the valuable beans that are processed into chocolate. Here, Cacao Barry partners up with another of the Swiss house’s sub-brands, Cabosse Naturals, to upcycle a portion of the pulp and peel into usable foodstuff. Apart from lessening waste, this provides an alternative income stream for the 450 smallholder Ecuadorian farmers that supply the cacao that goes into WholeFruit chocolate.

There’s another boon that results from this close working relationship – end-to-end, there’s less than a five-hour gap between harvesting and processing cacaofruits, meaning fresher produce and stronger flavours that make it to the final product.

EvocaoTM, a dark couverture chocolate in the WholeFruit range, has already been launched in countries like France, Italy, the United States and Japan. An expression of Dominican Republic and Ecuador cacaofruits, it is now available in Singapore. WholeFruit EvocaoTM chocolate recently won the 2022 World Food Innovation for Best Artisan Product, and is the first-ever chocolate to be Upcycled Certified by the Upcycled Food Association. Excellent news if you’re in need of great chocolate for your next gateau.

For more information, visit www.cacao-barry.com.

Cacao beans and pulp are used to create WholeFruit chocolate

Guava-Pink GrapefruitAngostura Bitters Tartlet

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ASIA’S CACAO RENAISSANCE Dedicated smallholder farmers and ardent craft chocolatiers are giving Asian cacao beans – a crop once held in low regard – their well-deserved time in the sun.

BY KENNETH LEE

Chocolate Dome

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lmost all good things in the world require time and effort, and chocolate – bittersweet, complex, velvety, fudgy chocolate – is no exception. The confection is the result of weeks of labour and expertise exercised over manifold steps, creating a sweet adored for centuries from its inimitable and utterly humble base ingredient, the cacao bean.

Its irreplaceability, much like a grape in a highly regarded wine, lies in the bean’s provenance and terroir. Most people agree that the best cacao beans come from South America, where the cacao tree is native to; as well as West Africa – the Ivory Coast, Ghana, and the like – the other global hub of cacao production post-colonisation era.

But it might surprise you to know that cacao trees aren’t only found in Peru and Brazil – they can also be grown in places like Pahang, Malaysia, and Ba Ria in Southeast Vietnam.

Likewise, the beans harvested from these trees can be turned into chocolate, if given the proper attention. Unfortunately, the general perception of Asian cacao has been poor. It is seen as a low-value commodity – and treated as such, often being handled and fermented haphazardly, leading to less-than-ideal flavours and off-odours.

Jerome Penafort

Mr. Bucket Chocolaterie Dempsey Factory

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Maple Apple Tart

Tasting Set

TIMES ARE A-CHANGIN’

Things have changed in recent years, with farmers and distributors trying to improve their storage and processing practices. Jerome Penafort, founder and CEO of homegrown chocolate brand Mr. Bucket (which recently opened a chocolate factory and lifestyle space in Dempsey Hill), swears by Asian cacao even though he is aware of the challenges. Unlike Europe, he says, cacao is not a traditional crop grown in Asia. It’s why many companies do not invest as much to farm quality cacao.

Still, he wants people to know that Asia can produce exceptional cacao. He says “All of our chocolates are made using cacao sourced only within Asia. We work directly with the cacao farms. This ensures that we are able to maintain the quality of the cacao while building an honest relationship with every farmer.” He and his chocolatiers take the beans from specific origins – whether it’s a family-owned cacao plantation in Pahang, or a collection of smallholder farmers in the Philippines – and put them through a “vigorous R&D process”, before creating a chocolate that best showcases the beans’ flavour notes.

Penafort hopes Mr. Bucket Chocolaterie will be a platform for more consumers to be exposed to Asian cacao farms and farmers. “Our goal is to continue leading the way for Asian chocolate, combining education and experience to foster everyday conversations that revolve around the exciting world of chocolate, and cultivate a deeper appreciation for cacao grown in Asia,” he says.

A selection of chocolate drinks at Mr. Bucket Chocolaterie Dempsey Factory

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SWEET DREAMS ARE MADE OF THESE According to Penafort, bean-to-bar chocolates do not have a “standard” taste. Each chocolate differs as its unique characteristics are dependent on where and how the beans are grown. Here, he shares where Mr. Bucket Chocolaterie sources its Asian cacao from.

Malaysia “We work with farmers Ong Chong Lim who manages Triang Bera Estate in Pahang, a 78-hectare family-owned cacao plantation, and 31-year-old Simon Ting who took over his father’s 8-hectare plot of land in Panchor.

Ting also plants coconut trees within the land, resulting in sweet notes of honey and cereal that you might taste in products such as our 66% Dark Chocolate Bars.”

The Philippines “Cacao beans are sourced directly from the northwest Calinan district of Davao City. We work with Michael Tan who buys wet cacao beans from smallholder farmers. These are fermented and sundried in small batches to ensure good quality and great flavour notes.”

India “We collaborate with Harish Manoj Kumar who hails from a 12-yearold cacao plantation located at the foothills of Anaimalai Hills in Pollachi, Tamil Nadu. His cacao beans are primarily Criollo and Amelonado mixed, grown and intercropped with coconut and nutmeg.”

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DON’T SUGARCOAT IT

Have your cake and eat it too, with healthy sugar alternatives and sweeteners explained.

BY PRIYANKAELHENCE

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ranulated sugar is the standard ingredient for most baking recipes, but as people become increasingly mindful of their personal health, there is a growing demand for a variety of natural sweeteners and sugar alternatives.

Like sugar, sweeteners provide that sweet, comforting and addictive taste, but what sets them apart is that they don’t increase blood sugar levels after being consumed. But most of the sweeteners comprise non-nutritious “weird” complex chemicals that could potentially disrupt your metabolism, elevate blood sugar and disrupt the body’s ability to properly metabolise glucose, so perhaps they aren’t the best solution you were looking for anyway.

With so much focus on provenance of ingredients, quality and indeed their method of production, most people naturally want to eat as healthy as possible, without compromising on taste or texture. So what’s the next best thing to use instead of sugar and chemically produced sugar alternatives? The healthiest alternative to sugar is whole fruits, followed by (non-

sugar added) dried fruits, as they contain added nutrients and fibre. For instance, applesauce and mashed bananas are the perfect healthy sweetener substitutes for baked goods, adding moisture to the bake, while reducing the amount of fat needed.

Other natural sweeteners are nutritive (which do contain calories), such as non-refined sugar sources like honey, maple syrup, and coconut sugar. Coconut sugar is derived from the sap of flower buds of the coconut palm tree; maple syrup is made from the boiled sap of sugar maple trees; while dates add fibre and vitamins. Likewise, honey, though sweeter than sugar, is often heralded as the golden nectar loaded with healthpromoting enzymes, minerals, antioxidants and prebiotics.

Choose raw honey over processed, as the high heat used during the processing can destroy many of the beneficial compounds.

Can’t believe it’s that simple? Follow the Cookbook Critic recipes on page 75 for Perfect Scones using dried Zante currants for the sweet notes, and for Rosemary-Lemon Shortbread using only freeze-dried sweet corn and date sugar. And I’m not even sugarcoating it. epicurevietnam 69

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National Museum of Ethiopia

THE CAFFEINE TRAIL Beautiful cafés are a dime a dozen, but it’s the coffee shops which take their java seriously that make all the difference.

How far would you travel for the perfect cup of joe?

BY PRIYANKA ELHENCE

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Tomoca Roastery in Bole Medhanealem

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veryone has an opinion of where to get their hands on the best cup of coffee, including me. Growing up in Kenya, I was very proud of the abundant, high quality (tea and) coffee plantations and AA coffee that Kenya was famous for its. Little did I appreciate at the time that neighbouring Ethiopia was also just as famous for its prized black gold beverage, if not more. Further outbound, London has evolved from its reputation of being just a tea-centric city to one that also offers quality coffee. And with Melbourne’s serious coffee craft being part of the city’s culture, popping into off-theradar cafés while travelling to one of Australia’s most popular cities is a must.

ETHIOPIA – BIRTHPLACE OF ARABICA

There is no disputing the fact that coffee was born in Ethiopia; coffee beans were accidentally discovered in the wild in 850 AD by an Ethiopian goat herder. Although a little off the beaten track for most travellers, Ethiopia is currently the world’s fifth largest coffee producing nation in the world, and the largest in Africa. The country’s coffee or kaffa culture and tradition is so strong, that all important family and business events are opened with a revered coffee ceremony to symbolise a strong social connection, respect and love.

Ethiopia’s pulsating capital, Addis Ababa or ‘Addis’, is a city that brings together the country’s famed handicrafts, gabis (hand-woven blankets) and bespangled materials. Addis Ababa’s largest market, Merkato is a must-do. The vibrant bazaar stocks everything from souvenirs and clothes, to fresh produce, incense and spices.

Music is an important part of Ethiopian culture, and central Piassa is brimming with traditional azmari bet (house of local singers and dancers), where you can enjoy traditional live music and join in the cultural iskista dance of the Amhara people.

Unwind at Fendika Azmari Bet with a glass of tej, Ethiopian mead or honey wine. For dinner, the Habesha 2000 Restaurant offers the best kitfo, a spicy version of steak tartare (lauded by Ethiopian supermodels for its nutritional powers), and injera, a staple spongy sourdough-risen flatbread made from teff. The restaurant also puts on traditional dances for diners to enjoy while eating.

Addis is packed with cafés and traditional coffee stalls, selling jebena buna (5Br/S$0.25), the robust local version of espresso, brewed in a traditional jebena clay pot over charcoal braziers. The locals usually add a little sugar (but never milk) to a small glass of jebena buna, while a tikur macchiato is a strong, albeit milky macchiato that is very different from its Italian counterpart. Also worth trying is the local spris, a half-tea-halfcoffee drink.

For the best coffee in Addis Ababa, head to Tomoca (TO. MO.CA), a family-owned café chain (and one of the city’s first) coffee roasting company established in 1953. Each of the chain’s six outlets has a different concept. After the frenetic Mercato, relax at the original Tomoca’s Coffee or the contemporary Office Bar Shop, both of which are located in the Piassa. The first Ethiopian Hotel built by Emperor Menelik II is within walking distance, as are historical landmarks, including local, Greek and Armenian Orthodox churches. History records show that the first humans came through Ethiopia from the Great Rift Valley, epicurevietnam 7 1

so visit the nearby National Museum of Ethiopia to see Lucy, the oldest and most complete hominid skeleton ever discovered.

The Ethnological Museum in the Addis Ababa University offers a fuller picture of Ethiopia’s cultural and social history complete with ancient artefacts.

For a touch of art, the elegant grass house Tomoca Galleria in Sarbet houses a chic modern art gallery. Culture buffs can visit the largest Orthodox Church in the Bole neighbourhood for a mix of ancient and modern architectural splendour before popping into the cosy Tomoca Roastery in Bole Medhanealem, which is decorated with antique coffee machinery and paraphernalia.

Finally, Tomoca Sefer is the best place to experience the Ethiopian urban lifestyle; the café is embellished with the same materials that the locals use to build their homes.

Abacus Bar & Kitchen

MELBOURNE – HOME OF THE THIRD WAVE COFFEE CULTURE

Climpson & Sons Café

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Closer to home, Melbourne is well-known for its coffee obsession and being a serious hotspot for artisanal brews. With its proximity to several coffee-growing areas, the focus Down Under centres on expert roasters and processing techniques.

The city is particularly known for its specialty quirky cafés, most with on-site roasters. Trade the popular beachside St Kilda for the Chapel Street precinct towards Yarra Valley, a longstanding shopping hotspot. Upscale South Yarra is one of seven sections in the area, lined with exclusive boutiques, hip local designers, international brands, and top-notch bars and restaurants. A hidden gem, Abacus Bar & Kitchen, is a popular inner city sanctuary famous for the striking ficus tree sitting in the centre of the café, and serving its own coffee label, Martyr.

Climbing plants fill the industrious-styled dining room walls and high ceiling, complementing the interior of concrete, timber and marble.

Away from the city, the forgotten warehouse suburb of Cremorne is a burgeoning arts, culture and food hub, a far cry from the dull industrial area it once used to be. Housing ad agencies, trendy offices and architecture firms, Cremorne is a hipster locale for skilled creatives and artists, with retro signage and street art celebrating the area’s history, and controversial murals mocking celebrities. While taking it all in, refuel at the Sloane Ranger Café, which is inspired by the picturesque, Georgian-terraced fashionable community of Chelsea. The café interiors are perfectly fitting of the surrounding industrial vibe, with polished concrete floors and walls, high ceilings and bifold windows and exposed pipes. Olive green and grey curtains create a soft and elegant balance. Beans from Dukes Coffee Roasters fill the matte black Arduino coffee grinders; a must-try is the sobering double espresso Black Tonic, served on the rocks with tonic water and lime.

LONDON – CAFÉS WITH ON-SITE ROASTERS

Europe’s most vibrant third wave coffee culture can surprisingly be found in London, which enjoys an increasing appreciation for artisanal and craft coffee. The city plays host to the annual

Coffee Festival and UK Coffee Week. Broadway Market in Hackney is arguably the capital’s hippest market, a popular weekend destination for an eclectic mix of merchandise, fresh produce, vintage clothes, street food and coffee shops, providing a unique kaleidoscope of tastes and sights. Watch the world go by at Climpson & Sons Café, as the flagship cafe of the namesake artisan coffee roaster offers a curated coffee menu that showcases the beans that are roasted in-house (the site is literally down the road at Climpson’s Arch).

For everything from fashionable street art to the latest street food, get off the beaten track and head to Dalston in East London. Nationally regarded as one of the most creative areas in the capital, Dalston is where new food trends and innovative social enterprises meet markets and street art.

Take in the buzz of the area at Allpress Espresso Roastery & Café, and watch the coffee craft process in action. The modest espresso specialist handles everything from loading the green bean silos to hand packing their blends. Every stage of the roasting process is on show, including solar panels that power the famous Allpress’ Hot Air Roaster coffee machines that the chain is known for.

Allpress Espresso Roastery & Café

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THE GREAT PRESENTERS

How you serve your food is very much part of the overall dining experience. These Singapore tableware brands and retailers offer artisanal plates, bowls and other vessels that will add a touch of glamour to your dining setup and elevate your meals.

BY NIDA SEAH Prism by Luzerne

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LUZERNE

Luzerne designs and creates bespoke fine china for many of the world’s highly regarded brands in the food, hospitality, retail and airline industries. This homegrown brand has come a long way, starting as a pottery trading company in 1947 before evolving into the global ceramic tableware powerhouse it is today. It recently celebrated its 75th anniversary with the opening of The Luzerne, Singapore – its flagship gallery and retail outlet along Bendemeer Road. It features three elevated experiential aspects of the brand: The Gallery (for hotel and restaurant clients), The Shop (its first retail outlet in Singapore housing over 3,000 unique pieces of Luzerne ceramics from 40 collections), and The Residence (its corporate office). luzerne.com

Evergreen

Pearl

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Plates from Miyake Ceramics

Bowls from Miyake Ceramics

Sabiya Hiwa plate

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Yoshida pottery

ARTIFACTT

Artifactt is the newest tableware retailer to hit our shores with the aim to “connect artisanal makers and creators with collectors and homeowners”.

Founded by Chris Lee and Annie Li in 2021, the shop at Palais Renaissance offers award-winning brands sourced from a growing network of artists and craftspeople. From sculptural keepsakes to functional statement pieces, customers will find tableware and drinkware from across Japan and Europe such as Serax (a Belgium tableware and furniture label) and Utsuwa to Design (by Japanese pottery artist Yuta Miyazaki). The founders only work with artists that prize attention to detail, and respect age-old techniques and traditions. In the pipeline are collaborations with local artists and Singaporean designers to showcase their creations. www.artifactt.com

Miyake Ceramics

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KRA SANCTUARY

Talay dinner plate; Lanna free-form soup bowl, salad dressing server, and soup spoon; and Bangkok (brushed gold) chopsticks

Sii Chompuu dinner plate, and Bangkok (brushed gold) cutlery set

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Luxury tableware can be found at Kra Sanctuary, a name derived from the Isthmus of Kra, the narrowest stretch of land along the coast of Southern Thailand. Its curated range of dining and serving essentials – sourced from familyrun artisanal crafters in Thailand – are a nod to time-tested traditions, local artisans, and the environment. Due to the shaping and firing process, each piece is one-of-a-kind, perfectly imperfect with natural curves and irregularities.

Dinnerware collections such as Andaman and Talay, for instance, exude a rustic charm with their organically shaped and understated pieces to reflect an unhurried island life. Kra Sanctuary also carries a range of silverware, cutlery, teapots and vases, in addition to its handmade, small-batch ceramics. They are available online and in selected retail stores. krasanctuary.com

Charcoal Grill free-form pasta bowl

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FIRST BOTTLED IN THE 1800S, NOW SPARKLING IN 2023 evian, the quintessential name in bottled water, recently introduced their latest addition to their historic beverage brand portfolio - evian Sparkling a crisp, refreshing, and effervescent beverage to tickle the palate.

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rafted by its 15-year natural filtration journey, deep in the heart of the French Alps, evian sparkling denotes the brand’s ethos of healthy hydration. The process begins with snow and rain, infiltrating the grounds of their impluvium, before slowly travelling through layers of ancient glacial rock where the water becomes naturally filtered and enriched with essential electrolytes and minerals.

Launched in 2022, and now available in multi-global markets, evian Sparkling aims to awaken the senses through a unique and refreshing sparkling sensation, a result which is dazzling, bubbly and pleasingly light upon its taste.

Shweta Harit, VP of Marketing at evian, states: “evian Sparkling represents new possibilities for the brand, as we reimagine our uniquely sourced water into an exciting new product. evian Sparkling stands out for its true purity* and freshness– elevating your experiences and keeping you hydrated. This new product contains the perfect level of sparkles with its fine bubbles creating a subtle taste and gentle intensity.

Available for the first time in recyclable glass bottles, this latest innovation demonstrates our longstanding pioneering spirit that runs through everything we do at evian.”

The release of evian Sparkling follows the launch of its ‘Drink True’ global campaign, celebrating authenticity and honesty, reflecting the purity of the uniquely sourced evian mineral water. evian has always been committed to preserving nature, not only by protecting its water source, but by continually investing in innovation. evian®, a Danone brand, embraces the company’s One Planet. One Health vision - the health of people and the health of the planet are interconnected, and therefore need to be protected and nourished. evian is also committed to making all of its plastic bottles from 100% recycled plastic by 2025, adopting a ‘circular approach’ to plastic usage, where plastic is kept within the economy, and out of nature. With input from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, evian developed a roadmap for the company to move away from a linear model to a circular one.

This means that all their bottles will be produced from recycled plastic, eliminating the need for, or use of, virgin plastics. This approach will enable plastic to evolve from potential waste, to a valuable commodity and resource. evian plans to achieve this through pioneering partnerships in the redesign of its packaging, the acceleration of recycling initiatives and the removal of plastic pollution from nature.

Annam Professional is proud to be the exclusive supplier of Evian (Danone) in Vietnam.

Hotline: 1900 272 773 Email: foodservice@annam-professional.com

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SUBTLETY AMID THE FLOW OF COFFEE CULTURE

Each coffee collection at Nespresso presents a unique story, inspiration and flavour… and all reflect a rich coffee culture.

THE PERFECT CUP OF COFFEE

Nespresso offers a wide range of coffee capsules, brewing machines and accessories for the true "coffee connoisseur” to enjoy quickly, and in great style, from the comfort of home.

With more than 30 varieties of Nespresso's coffee capsules to choose from, their carefully crafted blends are inspired by various countries across the globe. Italy, among them, is renowned for its vibrant coffee culture, and has had the most significant influence on Nespresso crafted coffee blends. The term Ispirazione Italiana coffee, characterised by "Italian inspiration", was coined by Nespresso.

ITALIAN MEETS VIETNAMESE COFFEE CULTURE

In the 1990s, Italian-style coffee was introduced to Vietnam, and Espresso style drinks gradually became harmonised with Vietnamese cà phê.

Italian coffee generates flavour profiles comparable to the preferred Vietnamese: Bold and Bitter. This taste similarity is most likely the reason that Italian blends were so well received by the Vietnamese people. And, as a result, a series of Italianstyle cafes were established across the country.

ITALY, VIETNAM AND THE CONNECTION NAMED ISPIRAZIONE ITALIANA

By introducing the Italian - infused coffee to Vietnam with the range of I spirazion Italiana, Nespresso has become a significant bridge between the two distinctive coffee cultures.

Ispirazione Italiana is a product line characterised by "Italian inspiration", from the way it is roasted and prepared, to the way it is savoured. The tastes reflect a modern picture of several of the most beautiful, iconic, and historical cities across Italy, like Rome, Naples... Ispirazione Italiana is the most popular, and sought after Nespresso Vietnam line due to its bold and robust flavour profiles.

If you are a fan of traditional coffee, infused with bold and bitter coffee drops, then choose Napoli, Kazaar, Ristretto or Arpeggio coffee. When combined with milk, they transform into a smooth, creamy and sought-after addition to a morning routine.

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If your preference is a milder coffee, bursting with aromatics, then Roma, Venezia or Livanto are the right choices. Their luscious notes will provoke a sense of calm and serenity for a tranquil moment of relaxation.

MILAN, THE INSPIRATION FOR A SPECIAL TYPE OF ITALIAN COFFEE

This year, Nespresso collaborated with Chiara Ferragni, the famed Italian influencer and fashionista, and launched a limited edition of an Espresso coffee capsule named Milano Intenso, a classic combination of roasted cereal and cocoa notes, married with hints of fruit and spices. Tasting this deliciously complex blend immediately transports you to the chic streets of Milan.

From Italian coffee to Vietnamese coffee, from Ispirazione Italiana to Milano Intenso, this extraordinary flavour journey connects coffee and culture lovers in perfect harmony.

Experience Nespresso's authentic Italian-style coffees, and you will taste, smell and appreciate the wonders of Italy.

Scan here to find your nearest Nespresso Boutiques

Hotline: 1800 234 506 Email: contact@nespresso.vn Web: www.nespresso.vn

G O U R M E T K N OWLE DG E

KITCHEN MAGIC

For most, the kitchen is the heart of the home where quality time is spent creating memorable dishes for family and friends. Naturally, for the space to function efficiently, quality fixtures are a necessity.

E

nter Aster Cucine – an all-in-one, tailor-made kitchen brand that strives to deliver high-quality collections for homes, as well as multi-unit property projects. Aster Cucine boasts a multi-faceted approach that allows for the incorporation of exceptional designs – inspired by aesthetic visions derived from Italy – into the kitchen space. What’s more, the brand’s kitchen system solutions offer various styles ranging from traditional to contemporary and modern, which is suited to most of today’s homes. The brand was initiated by MARQ HQO’s team, led by renowned industry leader Sharon Wu, Executive Director at Marquis HQO Pte Ltd. She boasts over two decades worth of experience in the luxury and contract furniture sectors, fulfilling design projects around the world.

FORM & FUNCTION

For superbly crafted kitchen systems, Aster Cucine’s brings together a scientific approach with an artistic eye for results that look and feel beautiful, all while boasting efficiency. What’s more, the team behind Aster Cucine goes beyond architectural rationalism and personal mood to deliver kitchen collections that 8 4 epicurevietnam

stand for impeccable statements, depicting unapologetic beauty behind core concepts. Collections such as PURE GLAM, with its untainted simplicity, CONTEMPORA’s contextual brilliance, FACTORY and its multi-disciplinary approach, and ATELIER with its wide, holistic range, go above and beyond in delivering consistency and uniqueness. The result: Fascinating spaces and broadly dynamic kitchen designs that satisfy every mood.

ZOOMING IN ON VERSATILITY

Whether it’s for personal residences or larger developments, the importance of quality kitchen systems is an important element to the overall construction of any project. Aster Cucine can adopt versatile solutions for the mission at hand. Firstly, it considers the uniqueness of residential construction, as well as the production and logistics experience that serve larger projects. With the competence and experience that Aster Project Department possesses, they can deliver a precise kitchen system that is able to match desired outcomes on various levels.

IT’S PERSONAL

Zooming in on personal residences, Aster Cucine aims for peak kitchen system placement through techniques and functional perfection, contributing to the creation of each collection for every individual project. The brand’s Italian heritage plays an important role in the quality of each collection’s designs, drawing from a rich history of experience as testament to the ability of being able to work with different materials and forms. Additionally, the Aster Cucine brand stands firmly with the current standards of sustainability. Designing, creating, and distributing goods with an ethical and environmentally conscious approach is a core priority and an important decision that the brand chooses to follow in its manufacturing choices.

Overall, Aster Cucine aims to push the standards of modern kitchen systems to the next level by being at the forefront of design, aesthetics, and ultimately, functionality.

For more information, visit marqhqo.com/astercucinesingapore

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G O U R M E T K N OWLE DG E

BEHIND THE BAMBOO CURTAIN A staple ingredient in Japanese cuisine, bamboo is commonly used in spring dishes and made into cutlery and tableware. Peter Weld travels to Kyoto and discovers how the plant is harvested and used.

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B

amboo grows all around the world, in more than 1,000 varieties, from Russia’s Sakhalin island to southern Argentina. Fast-growing and tough, it has been used for millennia by people everywhere, both as a building material and for a wide range of tools and implements, but probably nobody has developed as many uses for it—and as deep an affection for it—as the Japanese have. And nowhere is the devotion to Japanese bamboo stronger than in Kyoto.

The city of Kyoto was the home of the emperor for over 1,000 years, from the late 8th century to the mid-19th, and a visitor to the city’s innumerable historical sites still sees plenty of bamboo.

In Zen gardens it drips water into stone basins. It forms the ribs of the paper umbrellas and fans carried through the streets by kimono-clad women. At tea ceremonies it’s used for whisks and scoops. It’s woven into intricate baskets.

In the Sagano area, in the northwest of the city, the groves from which the bamboo is harvested have themselves turned into one of the leading attractions. On any day of the year, the lanes that bisect these groves are full of tourists, foreigners and Japanese alike, posing for selfies and babbling in dozens of languages.

A newly married couple posing in front of a bamboo grove.

Paper umbrellas (with bamboo ribs) dry in the sun.

A WOVEN CRAFT

Fortunately, there are still places where bamboo can be appreciated in peace. One of them is Rakusai Bamboo Park, south of Sagano, straddling the border between Kyoto and the adjacent city of Mukō. The visitor centre here has samples of bamboo that you’re unlikely to see anywhere else, including flat and square bamboo (made by placing moulds above the shoots as they first emerge from the ground; as they grow taller, they take the shapes of these moulds). There’s tortoiseshell bamboo, sesame bamboo, tiger bamboo, and more.

But it’s not just a museum of cut, preserved samples; outside the visitor centre, you can see most of these varieties growing on the park’s grounds. Underground there are barriers to keep the root systems of the different species from intermingling, so you can walk down quiet stone paths with one kind of bamboo growing on your left and an entirely different kind on your right.

Not widely known among foreign visitors, the park is nonetheless famous enough among locals that on weekends you can almost count on seeing couples there in their ceremonial finery— kimono for the women with hakama for the men—posing for wedding photos amidst the bamboo. It’s a lovely sight, and the couples are usually very happy if a tourist asks to photograph them as well.

Rakusai Bamboo Park sits on a long ridge, and as in Sagano, it has a few narrow roads, suitable for both driving—but carefully!— and strolling. Peek behind the fences which line these roads and you’ll see that the groves are immaculately tended. To get high quality bamboo, you can’t just drive out into the countryside, find a grove, and start cutting; you need to maintain your grove with the utmost care, keeping the trunks separated by a reasonable distance and weeding out other plant species that might crop up.

There’s a lot of physical labour involved—much more than you would imagine when you look at a delicate bamboo tea scoop or a pair of chopsticks. epicurevietnam 87

BEAUTIFUL VESSELS

Tea scoops and chopsticks are just two of the products created by the artisans of Takano Chikkō (www.takano-bamboo.jp/english), a company in the city adjoining Mukō to the south, Nagaokakyō.

Takano Chikkō is located in an industrial area, sandwiched between an elevated expressway and the Shinkansen tracks.

From the outside you wouldn’t be able to guess what kind of company it is—that is, until you spot one of its workers doing aburatori, the procedure that removes an outer layer of oil from the raw bamboo, and another sawing four-metre segments into more manageable lengths.

Inside there’s an intriguing mix of old and new: high-tech machines with digital control panels in one room, cutting slices so thin that the company’s employees have their business cards printed on bamboo, not paper. In another room a worker applies lacquer to spoons using the same tools and techniques that have been around for centuries.

Several of the company’s 26 employees are graduates of Kyoto College of Traditional Arts, and they work with the keen focus and incredible attention to detail that is the hallmark of Japanese craftsmen. Tōko Ebina is one of them. In a small, climate-controlled room, she holds a piece of sesame bamboo in her left hand, centimetres from her face, and uses lacquer to paint an intricate design onto it with her right hand. Before the lacquer can dry, she quickly sprinkles powdered gold onto it to create a relief, an art form known as maki-e which dates back a thousand years to the Heian Era.

A check on newly made tea scoops to see if they are properly balanced

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Takano Chikkō’s products cover a vast spectrum, from bookmarks to train stations. (In 2004, the company was responsible for redesigning the interior of Keifuku Arashiyama Station in western Kyoto, a project that required roughly 3,000 pieces of bamboo.) Simpler items can be purchased at various locations around the city, including the visitor centre at Rakusai Bamboo Park, but to see some of their finest products, head for Takamura (www.takano-bamboo.kyoto/takamura), a shop in Kyoto’s upscale Gion district. Even if you don’t practice tea ceremony or flower-arranging, you’re likely to be sorely tempted by the beautiful cups, tea containers, and vases for sale there.

Turning bamboo on a lathe

Toko Ebina does maki-e.

Clockwise: Takenoko in various forms: as soup, served with grilled or sashimi

SAVOUR THE ART FORM

A short drive west of Takano Chikkō’s headquarters, right next to the historic Shintō shrine known as Nagaoka Tenmangū, stands Kinsuitei, a restaurant founded in 1881. It’s an elegant establishment whose customers include celebrities and statesmen, and the cuisine that it serves is refined all year round, but from the end of March to the end of May, it specialises in takenoko, or bamboo shoots.

Hisashi Ikeda, the restaurant’s senior managing director, demonstrates how to hunt takenoko: donning gloves and picking up a special, wooden-handled, long-bladed tool, a horiguwa, he heads out through Kinsuitei’s Japanese-style gardens to a nearby bamboo grove and starts carefully scanning the ground.

He’s looking for the fine cracks in the dirt which indicate that a bamboo shoot is pushing up from below.

Soon he’s brushing away the topmost layer of dirt to reveal the tip of a medium-sized shoot. (The biggest ones can weigh as much as four kilograms.) There’s no time to lose; in another day or two, it will already have sprouted above ground, still edible but not good enough for as classy a restaurant as Kinsuitei. With a skill born of years of practice, he inserts the tip of the horiguwa in just the right spot and then starts walking in circles around the shoot, very slowly and gently prying it out of the ground.

Ikeda has takenoko in his genes, for Kinsuitei’s founder was his great-great grandfather, Rinkichi, and he has always known that some day he would become the fifth-generation president of the family business. (The current president, Takashi Ikeda, is his father.) From the grove he leads his visitors back to the restaurant’s kitchen to watch as the evening’s dinner is prepared.

The shoot he has just dug up can’t be served yet; bamboo shoots contain egumi, which has to be boiled out of them for about two hours. “It’s not a poison, as some people think,” says Ikeda, “but it certainly doesn’t taste good.” His visitors watch as one of the chefs expertly prepares different shoots. On a busy day, the restaurant goes through some 150 large shoots and perhaps 300 smaller ones, all dug up in Nagaokakyō and Kyoto.

“Large takenoko are better suited to some dishes and smaller ones to others,” he explains. “For example, sashimi is best made with smaller shoots, but big ones are better for jikitake, which is our signature dish.” Soon his visitors are seated in one of the restaurant’s 20 little tatami-floored, thatch-roofed gazebos, each one perched on pilings at the edge of a carp-filled pond. They watch appreciatively as a set meal called Takenoko Zukushi is served. It arrives course after course—sushi, grilled bamboo, steamed bamboo, tempura, soup, and more—and takenoko plays either a starring role or a supporting role in nearly every one of them. Because this is Japan, the appearance of each dish is considered almost as important as its taste, and neither disappoints; it’s like being served a dozen little works of delectable art. It’s a great end to a fascinating day, a glimpse at a side of Kyoto that few foreign visitors take the time to see—a peek behind the bamboo curtain. epicurevietnam 89

CHEF MASTERCLASS

A FINE DINING CHEF GROUNDED IN SUSTAINABILITY

Chef Si Toan of Sam Dining views the Culinary Arts as a fully sensory experience. Inspired by the beauty of Đà Lạt, and its bounty of sustainable and locally sourced ingredients, his restaurant offers an unparalleled fine dining experience to its patrons. Chef Toan’s passion for developing innovative flavours, led to the establishment of Sam Dining's Cookbook Tasting Menu, a singular dining experience that encourages guests to read the cookbook, while simultaneously tasting its dishes. We had a chance to speak with Chef Si Toan about his culinary journey and truly inspired food.

Can you please share a bit about your studying at one of the best Culinary Arts Institutes? What role did it play in your career in Vietnam?

In 2009, when I first stepped onto campus, and into my classroom kitchen, I was completely floored by how high-tech and well appointed it was. There were tools, appliances and ingredients I had never seen, no less worked with before. Imagine what that must have felt like to an inexperienced 19 year old Vietnamese kid… It was hypnotic…pure magic. The school provided me with such an incredible platform for the honing of my craft, and that knowledge, plus vigorous training, was the foundation for the Chef I am today.

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Diners in Đà Lạt expect a regional culinary experience, different from a big city like Sài Gòn. How does Sam Dining meet their needs?

One of my diners once told me that my food is down to earth… unpretentious, but delicious. I strongly believe in sustainable cuisine, and we cook our hearts out, utilising the simplest and purest ingredients to the most complicated and luxurious. We treat them all with the highest respect, and try to produce as little waste as possible. Our focus with Sam DIning is a farm to table approach, and our new tasting menu reflects that ethos.

We have only applied 1 imported ingredient to this menu, and the rest are all locally sourced. The great benefit of having a restaurant in Đà Lạt is that it is the best place in the country for the sourcing of farm-fresh, local ingredients. However, I am very happy to share that my team and I will soon travel to Ho Chi Minh City, and present my Cookbook Tasting Menu, as a dining pop-up, at Le Méridien Saigon’s BARSON. I’m really excited to have Saigonese foodies experience it!

What makes you most proud about Sam Dining's Cookbook Tasting Menu?

If there is one single dish from our tasting menu that I’m the most proud of, it’s our artichoke dish. We use the whole vegetable, including the stems, with absolutely no waste. I am committed to being environmentally respectful and sustainable at my restaurant, as well as supporting local business. It’s very important to me. I really hope that farmers understand the incredibly significant roles they play in our food and daily lives, and how much respect that we, as chefs, have for them.

If food is an art, how would you define your artistic personality?

Art is created by the use of our 5 senses. As chefs, we listen for the sound of hot oil sizzling in a pan, we smell the air to make sure that nothing we have prepared is burnt, we use our eyes to construct beautiful plating, we touch our proteins, vegetables, and fruit as we slice them, and taste our food to be sure it is properly seasoned. There is no other job I can think of which requires the use of all 5 senses at once; it’s unique to the art of food preparation, and something I greatly appreciate for my craft.

SAM DINING BL10 KQH Yersin, District 9, Dalat City, Lam Dong Province Hotline: 0827536822 | Email: info@samdining.com Web: https://samdining.com

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE WESTIN RESORT NUSA DUA, BALI

Jason Licker

CHEF MASTERCLASS

NO ORDINARY SWEET Jason Licker, executive pastry chef at The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali shares his experience on self-publishing an award-winning cookbook and his latest Asian-accented pastry creations.

BY EVE TEDJA

W

ith a career that spans more than twenty years and across continents, Jason Licker currently calls Bali home. His recent appointment as the executive pastry chef of The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali coincidentally happened when the island is gearing up to host the world’s leaders at the 2022 G20 Bali summit in November.

The New York-native hits the ground running, so to speak, overseeing the beachfront resort’s pastry and dessert offerings in all of its dining venues as well as the banquet.

“Pastry-making is something that I am deeply connected with – it just clicked right from the start. It is intense and demands long hours but I love the challenge of being able to utilise the palate beyond just sweetness,” says the chef. His fascination with Asian flavours could be traced back to his globally influenced upbringing in New York. However, it was at Nobu Miami in 2000 did he discover ways to use Japanese ingredients in pastry, be it miso or matcha.

He continued his exploration in combining sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and umami to create his own style of Asian-accented pastry in Shanghai, Macau, Hong Kong, Bangkok, and Singapore’s renowned hotels and restaurants.

Eventually, his signature palate-challenging creations were compiled in an immaculately designed, self-published cookbook, Lickerland: Asian-Accented Desserts by Jason Licker.

It was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2017 and crowned second in the Asian Cookbook in the World category at The World Gourmand Cookbook Awards 2018.

His second self-published cookbook, Baking with Licker: Home Baking with Asian Accents was a 2021 IACP Cookbook Award Finalist and the winner of the Best Asian Cookbook in the World at the 2021 World Gourmand Cookbook Awards.

Balinese Coffee and Passion Fruit Choux

What fuelled your fascination with Asian ingredients?

Growing up in America as a fat kid, I was traumatised with sugar. So, when I create something, I like complex flavours. I like to cut the sweet with the sour, enhance it with salt or add a slightly bitter taste. My travels in Asia also exposed me to a myriad of ingredients. Thailand influenced me a lot with their excellent fruit produce. Vietnam’s coffee and usage of spices like cinnamon, as well as their way of adding beans or corn into their desserts were also another influence. I’ve been coming to Indonesia over the years and its usage of palm sugar in the desserts inspired me. epicurevietnam 93

Lobby Bar & Lounge at The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali

Why did you decide to self-publish your first cookbook, Lickerland: Asian-Accented Desserts by Jason Licker?

Tell us about the second book, Baking with Licker: Home Baking with Asian Accents.

I had a deal to create a restaurant that didn’t go as planned. So I pivoted and used the fund to write a cookbook about Asianaccented pastry. It wasn’t a straightforward process. I worked with a good friend of mine, photographer and designer Jason Michael Lang, from the beginning. However, I stupidly didn’t hire an editor from the get-go. I learned the hard way that self-publishing involves a lot more than just writing and taking pictures.

The whole process, from ideation to holding the printed book in my hand, took about one year. At the end of 2016, I celebrated its publication with a few friends in Bangkok. One of them badgered me to submit it to the James Beard Foundation Awards. So I did. I sent the hardcopy through a courier and still thought that there was no chance a self-published book would make it, and forgot all about it until a few months later when there was an email from the James Beard Foundation Awards about an online nomination announcement event.

I was in Bratislava when the announcement was made.

The internet wasn’t good and I went to a bar, got connected to the WiFi, and as soon as I went online, my phone erupted.

Lickerland: Asian-Accented Desserts by Jason Licker was nominated. Looking back, it played a pivotal role in my career.

The book allowed me to travel and worked as a freelance pastry consultant.

The second book is the opposite of the first one. I learned how to do it by making all the mistakes the first time so the second book was much smoother. It took nine months to produce and I wanted it to be different. While the first book leans more toward fine dining, the second is made for home bakers who wish to combine and explore new ingredients. There are classic recipes with twists of Asian influences like Yuzu and Lemon Meringue Pie, Chai Tea Flan, Miso Blondies, and many more.

I started the book in 2019 with a photoshoot done in Bangkok.

Then, the pandemic happened. I was in Hawaii at the time, so the production process was done in three countries. The graphic designer was in Bangkok, the editor was in Hong Kong and I was in Hawaii. It came out during the pandemic, where the world was a different place and we all had different needs.

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What are the current trends in pastry?

During the pandemic, we witnessed the explosion of bake shops worldwide. In times of peril, it is only natural that we go back to the basics: the food that gives us comfort such as freshly baked warm breads, cakes and cookies.

However, I think we will see a growing demand for healthier pastry such as gluten-free and reduced-sugar options. CBDinfused desserts will also get more popular, where it is allowed.

The Chocolate Bar

What can we expect when we visit The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali to taste your creations?

True to Westin’s Eat Well philosophy, I try to create nourishing and balanced sweet treats with the bounty from local ingredients and artisanal products. We’ve started to introduce gluten-free and vegan cakes in our offerings; believe it or not, our Vegan Coconut Cake with Raspberry and Seasonal Fruits is one of the favourites!

At The Lobby Bar & Lounge, guests can find several new signature desserts such as Balinese Coffee and Passion Fruit Choux, Mango and Guava Mousse; Calamansi, Strawberry and Meringue Tart, as well as Matcha and White Chocolate Cake. The list will evolve. I want to make desserts that people crave.

I am currently working with the team to revamp the menus.

There will be a modern take on Italian desserts at Prego, something more adventurous than just a classic Tiramisu.

At Hamabe Japanese Restaurant, guests will find distinctive Japanese-accented desserts.

Jason Licker’s pastry creations for the resort

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CHEF MASTERCLASS

Maira Yeo

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BREAKING THE PASTRY MOULD Innovative desserts with Asian touches, cross-cultural flavours and a passion for savoury ingredients make Maira Yeo Asia’s best pastry chef.

BY PRIYANKA ELHENCE

C

hilli and coriander in a signature dessert with no traditionally sweet ingredients? It’s not a combination that usually comes to mind, but usual flavours and delivering the expected are not the reasons why homegrown talent Maira Yeo was crowned Asia’s Best Pastry Chef 2022 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Yeo’s signature (and hugely famous) dessert at Michelinstarred Cloudstreet is nothing short of unusual, eclectic yet extremely well balanced and eye-catching. She transforms the humble celtuce (also known as Chinese lettuce) into a celtuceyuzu sorbet with confit celtuce cubes, garnished with green chilli and coriander cress cream, finished tableside with lettuce juice and homemade vanilla oil.

“Ingredients can shine when you apply different techniques.

It would be strange if the desserts were to take a very safe and typical approach,” says the 30-year-old pastry chef.

Yeo has only been at Cloudstreet for about a year and a half (and counting) yet she has revolutionised the dessert creations at the restaurant, highlighting savoury notes while simultaneously capitalising on the natural sweetness of fruits and vegetables.

Her most recent invention takes the form of a delicate quenelle featuring soursop sorbet dusted with kaffir lime leaf powder, juniper berries and jambu. Innovative to say the least.

The kitchen has been Yeo’s domain since the young age of six, when she began helping out in her Cantonese-Teochew family’s mixed-rice hawker stall, and quickly progressed to being her mother’s sous chef for elaborate Chinese New Year feasts. But it was only at the age of 14 that the world of pastry caught her attention. Add her overseas professional stints to the picture, and her resume is impressive.

Soursop Sorbet, Juniper Berries, Jambu, Kaffir Lime

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Cross-cultural flavours take centre stage in Yeo’s desserts

Chef Sun Kim of Meta (ranked No.20 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022) was the first person to hire Yeo as a pastry chef. After spending four years under his tutelage, Yeo relocated to New York City to train at two-Michelin-starred Aska, before moving to Montreal to work with lauded pastry chef Patrice Demers. Yeo then intended to join the prestigious Maaemo in Oslo, but her plans were cut short due to Covid-19. She returned home in 2020.

Undeterred, Yeo continued to bake through the pandemic.

She started the bake sale project “Covid Bakes Lah” where 80 percent of profits went to two charities to support migrant workers and provide aid for the homeless in Singapore.

Her “CCB” (crackly chocolate brownie) cookies, fig and pomegranate hand pies, and rhubarb buckwheat financiers were a hit.

Then a short-term collaboration between Yeo and Cloudstreet chef-owner Rishi Naleendra to support the pastry kitchen in mid-2020 turned out to be the perfect full-time solution, with Yeo opening the restaurant’s second floor dessert space. We speak to her about her recent win, cooking style, and why she believes all ingredients, including savoury ones, have a place in all desserts.

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What ignited your passion for pastry?

I decided to pursue pastry as a career due to a Korean drama that I watched when I was 14 years old, but it was the nature of the job that made me determined to pursue this line. I really enjoy how it never stops being challenging and how rewarding it is.

How did your pastry training overseas contributed to earning Asia’s Best Pastry Chef title?

Being overseas has definitely opened my eyes to many things – not just in terms of ingredients, but also on kitchen structure, organisation and other details. While I believe that my overseas stints and training might have played a part in me receiving the award, I think the biggest attribute would still be chef Rishi and the Cloudstreet team. The immense amount of support that I receive from them is what I believe that helped me to stand out.

What were the challenges you faced in your journey as a pastry chef?

When I initially realised there was no end to improving oneself, it felt a little demoralising and daunting. However, I managed to overcome it by realising there was no end to growing and that became exciting to me.

What do you consider to be the most important when it comes to making the perfect pastry?

I don’t think there is a fixed definition of a “perfect pastry”. To me, a perfect pastry only exists in that fleeting moment when you eat a pastry that fits the mood that you are in. For example, when you want to have something comforting, you are more likely to find a chocolate cake perfect, as compared to having fruit tart, even if both are done really well.

What inspires your cooking style of adding savoury ingredients to your pastries?

Yes, I would consider my cooking style to lean on the “savoury” side. But more so, I feel that my cooking style is more “open minded” and “free”. It just came naturally along my culinary journey. The chefs I’ve trained under shaped my way of thinking, to think that all ingredients, in a way, are equal. Just because a certain ingredient is considered to be “savoury” doesn’t mean it can’t be used in a dessert and vice versa. Just like any other chef, I just want guests to enjoy a plate of good food.

Celtuce, Yuzu, Green Chilli and Yoghurt

Celeriac, Guava, Rose, Capers

Is there any particular creation you’re extremely proud of and why?

I’m proud of our current main dessert – Celeriac, Guava, Rose, Capers. Fresh locally grown roses by urban farmer Eng Ting Ting are sealed with champagne vinegar and aged in-house for a month before being used to pickle guava. Slices of pickled guava are then laid out in a pattern as a homage to the weaving history in Sri Lanka. It is served with celeriac ice cream, salt baked celeriac, fried capers and vanilla rose custard.

It is a dessert that is quite close to my heart for multiple reasons. Not just because of how it tastes, but I am glad that the idea to incorporate Sri Lanka’s weaving culture into the dish with pickled guava worked out. We are so lucky that Ting Ting grows such an amazing quality of local roses. Without these to begin with, this dessert might not have been able to see the light of day.

Another memorable moment was when French artist @ entree_plat_dessin was inspired to do a painting of the dessert.

He knew that the layer of pickled guava – without us revealing it to him – was meant to be like a piece of cloth. That painting is now with us in Cloudstreet, thanks to chef Rishi. epicurevietnam 99

CHEF MASTERCLASS

THE HAPPY BAKER Executive pastry chef Richard Long at The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore tells us how he and his team balance consistency and innovation in everything they do.

BY KENNETH LEE

Executive pastry chef Richard Long

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he first order of business for Richard Long when he gets to work? “Responding to work emails,” says the executive pastry chef at The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore. An occupational hazard that comes with the job that’s a tad ironic, since the 54-year-old chef snagged a gig as an apprentice at a local bakery precisely because he didn’t “like the idea of a desk-bound job” after finishing secondary school.

“It was during this time that I discovered my passion for baking and pastry making and decided to continue to hone my skills to be a pastry chef,” Long adds. And hone he did – across a career spanning five countries and 30 years, the last 20 of which were spent with The Ritz-Carlton.

Dealing with emails therefore is an unavoidable occupational hazard that comes with the territory. There are perks too – Long’s day starts at 7.30am, rather than the crack of dawn (or even earlier), as he’s checking on the items served during breakfast service at Colony and Colony Bakery rather than preparing them. There’s a further check on the bakes before lunch, at around 10.30am.

After all, customers at hotel bakeries demand unerring consistency. There’s no leeway for error, and production quantities are on an entirely different scale. Long tells us that his team is capable of producing up to “a hundred different types of breads and cakes in a day”.

These must be made perfectly every time – hence the twicedaily checks. After that though, the chef turns his attention to renewal of the roster, dedicating the rest of his day to ideation, experimentation and recipe development for new pastries.

“It is crucial to truly enjoy what you do, because passion can impact the quality and outcome of your bakes,” says the chef, who’s been head honcho here since 2020, on how he and his team continue to provide excellent grub, day by day. That, and

Baking with heart

BAKING TIPS BY CHEF LONG 1. The baking process is important. You may have the best recipes but if it is not done right (such as getting the right temperature and bake time), you won’t get a quality product.

2. A baking stone is best for baking bread because it heats evenly from the bottom and gives more volume to the loaf.

3. If you are making European-style breads such as sourdoughs and baguettes, you need steam as this makes them crusty, shiny and more presentable. Some ovens have a steam function but if yours does not have one, spray some water onto the loaf or into the oven when baking. It makes a difference.

Strawberry Vanilla Yogurt Cake and Upper Crusts in assorted flavours

“a positive attitude”. “Most importantly, it’s the process and your heart. If you are happy, the end product is good,” he adds simply. “Don’t bake if you are in a bad mood. Happy bakers make happy food.”

Balance is at the centre of the chef’s bakes – some of his personal favourites include the Hazelnut Praline Cake, which sees the nutty overtones of praline cream and caramelised hazelnuts counterpointed by yuzu cremeux; and the Salted Coconut Gela Melaka Cake, where the locavore flavours are brought into stark relief with a healthy hit of salt.

That said, Long isn’t afraid to admit that he isn’t done growing as a chef. “Learning is a lifelong process,” he tells us. “And only through the desire to learn new techniques and explore new ideas will we be able to improve ourselves and create more unique bakes for our guests.”

And if that growth means sitting through some emails every morning, so be it.

Cinnamon Brioche

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CHEF MASTERCLASS

ASK A CHEF

The experts from Humble Bakery – known for their artisanal scones and burnt cheesecakes – are here to help solve your kitchen woes.

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When baking burnt cheesecake, how do you make sure that the cake is not overburnt?

YAO ZHONG This would have to depend on your oven heat. Check the cheesecake surface for browning halfway through the baking time. As it starts to get darker, check the browning every two minutes (or even one minute if it starts to get burnt). Take out from the oven when the surface is burnt to your liking.

I made a chocolate pound cake. The recipe uses buttermilk, butter, sugar and cocoa powder/self-raising flour. I’m not sure if it’s because I split the recipe into two cake moulds instead of one but I followed the recipe to the T, yet it came out more crumbly and drier than usual. Any tips for a better moist cake?

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ver wondered why your cakes and bakes don’t turn out the way you want to? Homegrown brand Humble Bakery is here to help. Run by founders Tan Zhuo Guan, Glenn Lai and their new baker-partner Xieng Hui, the bakery is at the top of its game with its artisanal scones, burnt cheesecakes, brownies and cookies. Its products have been so popular that it has expanded from an online bakery to a cafe at One Raffles Place. It has also upped the ante by introducing more specialty bakes such as loaf cakes and choux puffs. Read on as the experts share their top tips for the best bakes and cakes.

@3HAPPY_C Majority of pound cake recipes call for eggs, and this is a very important ingredient as it acts as a binder. It holds ingredients together and makes cakes less crumbly. I would recommend using a pound cake recipe that uses eggs. Keep an eye closely on the baking time to ensure the cake is not overbaked. After baking the cake, let it rest for five to 10 minutes to let it firm up, then remove it from the mould. Cover the cake with a cake dome/lid to create a moist environment. This will help to retain moisture in the cake as it cools. Remove the lid when the cake is lukewarm and let it cool completely. Alternatively, you can also brush the cake with milk or sugar syrup (plain or flavoured) when it is still hot and cooling down.

Is there a difference between adding wet ingredients into dry vs adding dry ingredients into wet one?

AXIAL FANG It really depends on what you are making and the results you are trying to achieve! For instance, if you are making a butter cake, you will have to cream the butter with sugar first in order to create air cells for the cake to rise, followed by flour towards the end as you want less gluten to develop resulting in a more tender cake. If you are making bread, you would want to put liquids in first followed by dry as the other way round will result in dry flour being stuck to the side of the bowl.

When folding/whisking a mixture, is it necessary to do so in one direction only? @SIG_ICE It is not necessary to whisk in one direction as air can be incorporated either way through whisking. For folding, it is in one direction most of the time as long as dry ingredients are incorporated. It is also smoother based on whichever hand you are using. epicurevietnam 103

EPICUREAN PROFILE

FROM THE PASSION OF OCEAN TO THE SEAFOOD BUSINESS Hervé Blanes is not simply a seafood purveyor, he is a genuine seafood lover. Born and raised in Marseille, and now residing in Ho Chi Minh City, he’s the CEO of Nine Indochinese Dragons Co Ltd, the leading premium seafood supplier in Vietnam, as well as the owner of both La Poissonnerie and Duke&Oyster Bar in District 2. Having grown up on the beach, his passion for the ocean and commitment to all things seafood is unparalleled. We had the chance to chat with Monsieur Blanes about his business practices, and his devotion to the industry in Vietnam.

Would you please share the highlights of your seafood export industry journey in Vietnam, from 2013 to now?

Towards the end of 2012, my primary client base was in France and Spain. However, as the European economy grew worse and worse with each passing year, I found that I was selling fewer containers to this particular customer pool, as they were sourcing less expensive products, supplied by countries like India, for instance. Vietnam mainly exports seafood to Japan, Korea, Taiwan and America, as customers in those particular countries are willing to pay a premium for the highest quality seafood. However, once the pandemic hit, and there were serious associated supply chain issues, along with a severely spiked increase in ocean freight costs, I unfortunately lost my last remaining European customers. So, I restructured my business model to focus on the domestic market, and it’s honestly been more interesting, with a really promising and sustainable future.

As a seafood exporter, who has worked in multiple markets, what do you think about the quality of seafood in Vietnam? What are the advantages and disadvantages?

In my opinion, Vietnam produces the best quality seafood in all of Asia, and the majority of people working in the industry are incredibly forthright and reliable. Developing long standing relationships with Vietnamese suppliers is really seamless, as compared to other Asian territories.

Vietnamese very quickly understood the importance of producing high-quality, and ASC, Global Gap, Naturland, etc. certified products, which created their ability to sell seafood at higher prices, while simultaneously avoiding competition with other Asian countries’ exports. High volume, with marginal quality, at the cheapest possible price are their competitors’ business models, even to the extreme dismay of the buyers who,

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as a result, are constantly seeking alternate supply options. Most Vietnamese exporters focus on quality and customer satisfaction, in order to build long-term and fruitful businesses with their customers. For me, that’s the best strategy… I respect that kind of business.

How are sustainablity practices in Vietnam’s seafood industry implemented?

Well, as they don’t want to destroy their businesses, are thinking long term, and in working with the aforementioned organisations to achieve their certifications, they had no choice but to seriously commit to perfect hygiene, planet care, and the sustainability of their seafood resources in Vietnam.

What does seafood mean to you in the global culinary culture?

I’m a seafood lover. I’ve worked in this industry for 40 years, it’s my life’s work and passion. The business is truly amazing, improving and changing every single day, and there is not a solitary second of it which I find boring.

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In Asia, people eat and appreciate seafood more than in other countries across the globe, where consumer taste tends to prefer meat and poultry. Seafood is a very healthy choice, and as people today are more health-conscious, they are consuming more seafood.

What kind of seafood do you like the most in Vietnam?

By what standard of practice do you manage your seafood products?

I personally love shrimp, fish, and octopus. In Vietnam, I have discovered several new species of seafood which are unavailable in Europe. Freshness is key to this business. I oversee purchasing, ensuring that we procure only the best products, and I manage the logistics side as well. Even if you buy the best products, but transportation takes too long and/or the cold chain is broken, the quality of the products are seriously affected, and the result will be sub-par. Of course, the prices will be a bit higher, but in Vietnam, we have the benefit of domestic air cargo being significantly cheaper than in Europe, for instance, so we are able to sell top-quality seafood here at reasonable prices.

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La Poissonnerie and Duke’s Oyster Bar was inspired by your love of seafood?

Yes of course! At our shops and restaurants, we sell carefully selected products, always the freshest, at fair prices. We process all our smoked fish in-house, and prepare our ready made meals by way of the same philosophy - quality first, at reasonable price points.

I’m a big fan of Mediterranean cuisine. I’m French, born in Marseille, my father’s family is Spanish, and my mother’s family is Italian, so I want our customers to discover this beautiful cuisine at our restaurants. I love Vietnamese food, another reason why I live here, and I wish for Vietnamese locals to appreciate Mediterranean cuisine as much as I do theirs. If I succeed in this mission, I’ll be incredibly happy!

My goal is to share my passion for seafood with as many people as I possibly can.

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Premium chocolates for Valentine’s Day

THE CHOCOLATE ENTREPRENEUR

Meet Singapore food entrepreneur Anjali Gupta of Anjalichocolat.

From handcrafted sustainable indulgences to hands-on workshops, she shares how she has grown her business into the premium chocolate brand it is known today.

Anjali Gupta

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tarting your own business may be daunting, but when you have the passion, skills, support of loved ones, and of course, a great product, it can be a successful and fulfilling venture. Just ask Anjali Gupta who founded Anjalichocolat when she was 50, an age where many would start planning their retirement.

The former banker, who often moved around the world with her family before settling in Singapore, decided it was time she “grabbed destiny with my own two hands” and pursue her passion for chocolate. Numerous culinary courses and professional programmes later, her namesake brand was born.

A ONE-STOP DESTINATION

A small stall at PasarBella (a gourmet farmer’s market) in 2014 served as the starting point before she moved the business to the tranquil Loewen by Dempsey Hill. The current location serves as a production facility and workshop venue – “a onestop destination for corporate gifting and team-building experiences”. In 2018, they shifted their retail operations to Tanglin Mall. In addition, they operate an online store, and are listed on several online platforms such as Lazada, Amazon, and Fairprice Marketplace.

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HEART OF SUCCESS

Anjali describes her chocolates as an “affordable luxury” and reveals that her favourite food is, well, chocolate. When she first set up her business in Singapore, there were not many artisan chocolatiers who made and sold chocolates using fresh, natural ingredients. One could not easily get a box of chocolates which did not contain preservatives such as potassium sorbate which are often used to obtain a longer shelf life.

Her vision was, and still is, to provide freshly made chocolates, using fine ingredients with no artificial flavours or preservatives.

In addition, she strives to be a brand with a heart. As the owner of a chocolate business, she is painfully aware of the “bitter side of chocolate” : sustainability and other problems faced by cocoa farmers. She is grateful for the sustainable practices followed by her couverture suppliers. She keeps in touch with them, and is well-informed of the programmes undertaken by them to address the issues.

“When I started out, I personally interacted with a large number of my customers. Now that the business has grown, most clients I speak to are corporate customers looking to place larger orders, or are interested in customisation. All our customers, big and small, want the brand to be a mirror, meaning they want to be reflected in the brand. They demand that we source our ingredients sustainably.”

Every season, new packaging and new recipes keep customers happy and interested in Anjalichocolat products. But there are also customers who want to give a tried-and-tested luxury gift: classic flavours with no food colouring. Chinese New Year saw koi fish and rabbit chocolates, Mandarin oranges truffles and passionfruit caramel gold ingots. This Valentine’s Day, look forward to strawberry, raspberry and passionfruit hearts,

Chocolate workshop

while chocolate bunnies, hens and eggs will feature widely for Easter. The brand’s signature collection, From Singapore Lah, showcases unique bold flavours and ingredients such as Teh Tarik, Kaya Toast, Chinese 5 Spice, and Gula Melaka.

THE ANJALICHOCOLAT EXPERIENCE

For a more personal experience, there are the chocolate-making workshops conducted at the chocolate studio at Loewen by Dempsey Hill. Set up in 2015, it is a place where the young and old can get their hands dirty and create their own chocolate.

“People love coming for our workshops, and we used to be really busy,” she says.

While the Covid-19 outbreak made it difficult for her to continue the workshops, the chocolate retail business grew exponentially. The second half of 2022 saw a resurgence in demand for workshops, particularly from corporate clients looking to organise corporate team building events. In order to accommodate the increased demand for chocolates and workshops, the brand has taken on additional space at the Dempsey Hill location.

The newly expanded space can accommodate as many as 30 participants comfortably. Workshops such as chocolate truffle-making sessions will be ramped up even more in 2023.

(We suggest booking early for the popular Easter egg decorating workshops as they make a comeback this year.)

Gupta has plans to expand the retail side of the business but don’t expect 20 or 30 stores in the next few years. She wants Anjalichocolat to remain a craft chocolate brand and may add another outlet while maintaining her robust online presence and corporate clients. Ultimately she values the connection with her customers. “I love coming up with different flavours. I love the interaction I have with the individual customer who’s interested in what I do. That’s what keeps me going.”

Anjalichocolat is at #02-153 Tanglin Mall (retail), and 73 Loewen Road (workshop). www.anjalichocolat.com

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EPICUREAN PROFILE

DECK THE WALLS More than just a backdrop, wall murals bring out the concept of a restaurant & bar and adds character to the space. Eve Tedja talks to an interior designer, an illustrator and a surface designer about the role of mural art in commercial design.

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PHOTOS DOMISILIUM STUDIO, ATELIER SENI, FOLIE KITCHEN & PÂTISSERIE, SUGARSAND, AND MONEZ

A melange of colour at texture at SugarSand

Mural artwork for Up in Smoke restaurant, Jakarta.

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Interior & surface designer, Atelier Seni @ineskatamso

orn in Yogyakarta, the Indonesian-French artist earned her Master of Arts and Design degree in Antibes and attended a fashion and fabric design school in Marseille. Apart from designing, Katamso is also known as a painter. At the moment, she is simultaneously collaborating with a fashion brand, creating artworks for several luxury hotels and a commissioned artwork for a boat.

You started off as a muralist but grew to become an interior and surface designer. How did the transition come to be?

It was a natural move. Being an interior designer allow me to really connect the interior with the artwork. Both become one to create a unique space. I got my first opportunity to create a mural for a concept store. After a few commissions, I decided to quit my day job to become a muralist. A year later, I founded Atelier Seni. As a surface designer, I have more to offer a client. Now, we do murals, installations, prints for fabric and upholstery, and many more.

Is there a mural project that most define the design of Ines Katamso?

I would say that there’s a little Ines Katamso in all of our projects!

I am fond of contrasts in many ways, be it through textures, finishing or composition. I love combining geometric shapes with organic lines or adding shiny gold leaves on a matte, rustic wall. I find it interesting to play with two and three-dimensional elements, creating depths and rhythm along the way, as I did for SugarSand beach club in Bali.

Will murals continue to be a big part of the contemporary interior design landscape?

Definitely. I think murals will evolve into something more interesting and playful, with more emphasis on volume and texture. It will evolve from its current two-dimensional aspect to be more immersive and interactive.

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Mika Yakitori Bar, Bali

Tropical-inspired mural at Folie Kitchen & Pâtisserie, Bali

illustrator @monez_

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da Bagus Ratu Antoni Putra, or Monez as he is known, is a natural born artist. He has been sketching since he was five and has a Master of Art from The Indonesian Institute of the Arts, Bali. Monez’s portfolio spans from merchandise, children’s books, and artwork for app developers, and murals. His murals now adorn the walls of restaurants and hotels in Bali, such as Folie Kitchen & Pâtisserie, Mika Yakitori Bar and Anja Jimbaran.

Monez works independently and constantly explores the boundary of illustrative application in different mediums and formats.

Tell us about your artistic background. Have you always been creating murals?

I’ve been working as an illustrator since 2006. The beauty of illustration is its versatility when it comes to the application.

Creating murals started off as a request by some clients in 2016.

I was reluctant at first because I am not a muralist. I know how to draw or paint, but the technicalities of painting a mural is not my expertise. Fortunately, I found a solid team of talented muralists who could translate my illustration perfectly onto the wall, and we did our first project for Grand Mirage Resort & Thalasso Bali.

What’s your creative process in creating a mural for a client?

I work closely with the client and sometimes with the interior designer. Most of the time, the client approaches me because they like my style and they trust me to come up with an original

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Anja Jimbaran, Bali

artwork to suit their concept and space. It is an honour that I don’t take lightly because a mural is permanent and it is always made in a large scale, and affects the whole design and ambience.

I will visit the venues several times to get a better spatial idea, create a rough digital sketch, get approval from the client before I start on the colouring stage. After the final approval, I will then brief my team with the details and start the work.

What are you working on at the moment?

My greatest joy is to collaborate with another artist, or clients who come to me with a strong concept. It is more fun and challenging.

I am creating the second series of exclusive merchandise for the newly opened Starbucks Reserve Dewata, working on an illustration for a book, and a mural each for a Balinese and a Chinese restaurant.

Wall murals have been a trend in restaurant design in the last few years. How do you see it developing?

It will grow continuously. Business owners, especially in the F&B industry, are aware of the importance of good design. Murals enrich the design and create a strong identity that will leave a lasting impression on guests. It is one way to stand out from the competition, apart from many other aspects of F&B business.

I will call a mural project successful when it manages to convey the story or the venue concept and complement its interior design.

ARTOTEL Yogyakarta’s folklore-inspired mural art

Gormeteria was recently awarded Kohler Bold Design Award 2018 in the Leisure category.

Cheerful mural art at Rooms Inc. boutique hotel in Semarang

F

Principal of interior design, Domisilium Studio @salaysius

rom Indonesia’s top technology startup’s headquarters to Jakarta’s first design-orientated boutique hotel, Domisilium Studio has put a distinctive stamp on the country’s industrial design sphere. Its hands-on approach, great attention to detail and bespoke design can be seen in properties, such as Kosenda Hotel, ARTOTEL Yogyakarta, Tijili as well as restaurants like Picknick and Gormeteria.

Together with her co-partner, Hamphrey Tedja, Alaysius is able to tap on her experiences from working at Thom Filicia, Inc, New York and Simeone Deary Design Group, Chicago to head her Jakarta-based studio.

What was your first project involving a mural?

It was with Kosenda Hotel, Jakarta, one of our first major hotel projects since we founded Domisilium Studio in 2009, and the city’s first design-focused hotels. It was a game-changer, in terms of aesthetic and concept, on what a boutique hotel can offer for its guests. We told the story of Jakarta’s vibrant street food scene through the mural at its restaurant, Waha Kitchen.

How do you define the purpose of wall murals in a design?

A mural’s purpose is to tell the story, to make a statement. It is an investment for branding and marketing. Due to my marketing background, I am always aware of this particular aspect when I work with a client and designing a space. It is important to treat it carefully by picking the right artist and create a mural that is contextual to the concept.

How do you pick the artist in your projects?

My first criterion is that the artist must know how to respond to the space and the concept. It’s collaboration after all, not an ego trip. Secondly, I have to know the artist’s style and skill. For Gormeteria, a cafeteria in Bandung, I worked with a fantastic realist artist who responded to the limitation of the four-walled space by creating a mural of a forest. Together, we turned the otherwise dark and ordinary space into a relaxed living space.

Which comes first: the mural or the design?

The concept of the business comes first. It is terribly wrong when a mural is created as an afterthought when the design is done. It is part of the whole concept, as we did in ARTOTEL Yogyakarta.

The concept of the hotel is to embody the harmony of modernity and locality through folklore. We worked with seven artists who had the freedom to respond to the space. My guideline to them was that all hard surfaces were theirs to explore; just do not touch the carpet!

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W I N E K N OW L E D G E

WHEN PENFOLDS, CLOUDSTREET AND MIRAZUR COME TOGETHER A year after Mirazur’s pop-up in Singapore, Penfolds partnered with the lauded French restaurant to bring diners a taste of three continents.

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t started with Penfolds’ Beyond the Flavours culinary exchange programme that celebrates the spirit of innovation for which Penfolds is renowned. Penfolds’ first collaboration is with chef Mauro Colegraco, exploring shared values of determination and courage.

Cloudstreet’s head chef Mark Tai, who is also Singapore’s First Michelin Guide Young Chef awardee, was handpicked by Colegraco to visit his estate in Menton, France, to learn and be inspired by his sourcing and culinary philosophies.

“From the colours in Colagreco’s garden, the weather, the dishes that I savoured, and ingredients that I saw in their local market – these were some of the many things which I drew inspiration from for the menu that I developed,” says Tai. The collaboration resulted in a seven-course exclusive dinner paired with Penfolds’ exquisite wines, all delivered at Michelin-starred Cloudstreet. The languorous affair starts with a delectable set of amuse-bouche, including A4 Hokkaido Beef Tartare with Tororo kombu, and Blue Bobster served with camomile jelly and delicate bergamot meringue. The six bites are paired with Penfolds x Thienot Champagne Brut Rosé NV, now available in Singapore. Those who equate Penfolds with red wine are in for a surprise. Brand ambassador Samuel Stephens’s choices of two distinctively different Chardonnays elevate the plates. The first, a reductive Penfolds Reserve Bin A Chardonnay 2019, accented with rich stone fruit notes, works exceptionally well with the watermelon gazpacho and pickled vegetables topped with crispy jamon. The Penfolds Cellar Reserve Chardonnay 2018 complements and lifts the oyster, served with translucent compressed pear cubes and fermented pear juice. Among others, look out for the Penfolds FWT585 Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot 2019 from the French collection and the Grandfather 20YO Tawny Port.

Serendipitously, the best menu pairing is when the classics come together: Tochigi A4 Wagyu Beef and Grange 2017. Tan introduces an 18-year-old soy sauce reduction, accorded with the dried leaves, blackberry compote, and five-spice notes of the Grange. The exclusive Private Dining Seven-Course Chef’s Table Tasting Menu is priced from $598++ per person. Bookings require a minimum of seven days advanced notice for a table of six persons.

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W I N E K N OW L E D G E

WINE LOVERS UNITED

Grant Ashton, Founder and CEO of 67 Pall Mall, shares his visions for a global wine club where one can find kindred spirits wherever they go.

BY KATHERINE ARTECHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHINO SARDEA

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BUILDING 67 PALL MALL

In fact, Ashton never meant to start a wine club. He was just trying to solve his wine collecting problem — he had way too many of them. “It got to a point where the entire collection became big, bulky, and heavy,” he said. “It costs even more money to put them all in storage. So, my friends and I had the idea to open a restaurant with a wine bar so that we can sell some wine. We found a lovely old building – guess what, on 67 Pall Mall – but because it was a designated street for clubs, we didn’t have the permission to open a restaurant. To get around that, we developed the idea into a private wine club instead.”

So what’s the Pall Mall person like? “It's simply people who love wine,” said Ashton. “Yes, the crazy rich buy lots of nice wine, but at the same time, who doesn’t want to be a fundamentalist?

We don’t want to be terribly judgmental. However, if someone were to say, ‘I don't like wine, I just want to be a member’ then well, no, because that’s not what we’re about.” Ashton promises that there are no other prerequisites. The membership runs on a first-come, first-serve system, although Pall Mall isn’t taking any more members at the moment, while the Singapore club has an extensive waitlist.

“W

hat will people want to drink tonight?”

Grant Ashton, Founder and CEO of 67 Pall Mall, asked out loud. Within these four walls of paneled wood and wallpaper, it’s the million-dollar question every night at the exclusive wine club.

Taking residence at the Shaw Centre penthouse, 67 Pall Mall is the first in Asia, whose Singapore spot trumped the dynamic wine-loving country of Hong Kong. Ashton explained that it was simply the easy logistical processes to set up businesses in Singapore. “Singapore won on its own merits for being an easier place to open a private member's club devoted to wine,” he said.

He added that he sees a lot of the growth in Asia, prompting him to move to Singapore permanently by March next year. “Last year, I spent a lot of time in India and Tokyo. Four weeks ago, I was in Melbourne. Three weeks ago, I was in Sydney. Two weeks ago, I was in Hong Kong. Last week, I was in Shanghai.” His recent travels were not a simple case of fulfilling a wanderlust, but an aggressive expansion strategy. epicurevietnam 117

THE TRUTH IN WINE

Formerly the ballroom of the residence of Tan Sri Dr Runme Shaw, the main room, measuring 15,000 sq ft, preserves the floor-to-ceiling glass windows, providing a panoramic view of the Orchard Road shopping district. Lunchtime is among the club’s busiest times, and the scene gathers members who either come by for a quick work lunch or to while away the afternoon.

“Everyone's on a different part of their wine journey,” reveals Ashton. “From Master of Wines and sommeliers, to the very curious, we’ve got every single kind right here.” Pall Mall’s standout feature is the central towering wine library, which contributes to the club’s total selection of over 5,000 labels. “It’s not about laying down wine that would still drink well in 10 or 20 years time,” said Ashton, on 67 Pall Mall’s wine curation. “Some of the old-school wine clubs in the UK would buy 25 different versions of a wine, accumulating yearly vintages to make sure it’s what they’d still want to drink in 20 years. We don’t worry about that. I work on the basis that it's got to be perfect for you tonight.

And that could be a $20 bottle of Riesling, or a $20,000 bottle of a rare red. We buy wines worth tens of thousands of dollars a day.”

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Ashton points out the UK and Switzerland are two wine regions that are often overlooked, the first for its delicious English sparkling wines, and the latter as a wine region to visit. “The mountainous regions in Switzerland are really cool, considering how the other regions are affected by global warming. Especially in the Rhône Valley, the steep valley provides incredible height to plant grapes. Switzerland has very good wine that most people haven’t tried yet.”

If there’s anything Pall Mall has taught him, Ashton is humbled to stand corrected on the wine club idea. "When we first started, we thought there might only be 300 to 400 people in London that might care about this. Now we’re open in four cities and counting.

We realized that people really do want a wine community.

“We do Pall Mall a little bit differently in other cities, for example in Verbier that has a boot room for your skis, and the option of a beer after skiing at the end of the day. 67 Pall Mall may be in different places now, but it’s the same club. So, you pay your fees in Singapore and you can go and visit the club in Melbourne or Sydney, and even in Hong Kong, Shanghai, or Mumbai next time. It’s only fair, right?”

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W I N E K N OW L E D G E

A VIEW ON VINOVATIONS

Put romanticism aside and technology has its place alongside experienced hands

BY RICHARD HEMMING

C

orkscrews have been in existence for almost 400 years, and for a long time that was the wine world’s most notable invention. Wine might have a reputation for being somewhat old-fashioned, but the last few decades have witnessed breakthroughs that have revolutionised how wine is made, consumed and discussed.

Today, wine is less about men with red trousers (and even redder faces) gloating about ancient vintages, and more about a younger generation equipped with open minds and all the latest technology.

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A VINE ROMANCE?

Picture a vigneron, with hands as gnarled as the ancient vines she works with, slowly moving among the rows as the sun beats down from a clear blue sky. Now picture robotic pruners, heat-mapping drones and underground moisture sensors – all connected to smartphone apps that you can control from the palm of your not-so-gnarled hand.

These days, the second scenario is increasingly commonplace.

Wine lovers might prefer to think of vineyards in a romanticised way, but improvements in viticultural technology have been

POUR SHOW

crucial to the ever-increasing quality of our favourite drink.

Growers can now map their vineyards in minuscule detail and make planting decisions accordingly, optimise the health of their grapes using scanners that analyse sap flow and nitrogen levels, and even scare off pesky birds using lasers instead of netting.

Most recently, vineyard technology has been focusing more on sustainability. For example, irrigation systems that maximise water efficiency and recycling crop sprayers that minimise wastage. However, for some producers, traditional techniques such as horse-drawn ploughing and good old human instinct are far superior, and in many places you can find a combination of technology both old and new.

What’s certain is that the choices available in the vineyard have been fundamental in giving us the range and quality of grapes being grown today.

WINERY 2.0

It’s the same story in the winery. While old oak barrels and mechanical presses still have a role to play, many of the world’s most prestigious producers employ tech to improve the winemaking process. Many of them prefer to keep this behind closed doors, but the ingenious machinery being used is something to be celebrated rather than concealed.

Temperature control and stainless steel tanks are probably the most significant improvements in winemaking over the last 50 years. They are now ubiquitous, allowing producers to avoid the oxidised, flat wines that were routine in the past. From crushing to bottling, the wine industry depends on technology to bring drinkers the best possible quality – in some places, wineries look more like Mission Control than farm buildings.

Take the optical sorter, for example. This device consists of a conveyer belt that passes grapes beneath a series of cameras.

By setting the relevant parameters, winemakers can select the preferred colour, size and density of the berries. Any that don’t make the grade are summarily ejected by a row of air-jet nozzles, leaving only the most pristine grapes to be turned into wine.

Finally, we come to the most important part of wine: enjoying a glass or two. From a wine lover’s perspective, this is where the latest technology is most visible, and it has had a significant impact on how we choose and serve wine.

There are hundreds of wine apps available, but one of them reigns supreme: Vivino. From humble beginnings, this labelscanning app has now amassed well over one billion scanned labels, giving it the most comprehensive database of wine in existence. User-generated reviews assign an aggregated score out of five to each wine, giving users an indication of quality before they buy – which can also be done through the app, of course. Last year, their sales jumped to S$355 million.

Once the bottle is in your hand, we come to perhaps the most important recent breakthrough in wine consumption: Coravin. It was created by an American surgeon who realised that a medical-grade needle could pierce through a cork to extract wine, and the cork would then completely reseal after the needle was removed. By using inert gas to displace the wine, what remains in the bottle can be preserved in perfect condition.

This ingenious device has made it possible to serve any wine without committing to the whole bottle – which is how 67 Pall Mall, the new Member’s club for wine lovers in Singapore is able to serve more than 800 wines by the glass.

DRINKING TO THE FUTURE

Your corkscrew might not be obsolete just yet, but technology is having a revolutionary effect on wine. While not everyone might appreciate every innovation, there’s no question that technology has given us a wider choice of better wine around the world, while still honouring wine’s fundamental purpose: to express a specific time and place in delicious liquid form.

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V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

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THE SUMMER of ENGLISH SPARKLING WINES Largely consumed domestically, English sparkling wines are increasingly available in Singapore and pouring at a restaurant near you. We explore the rise of this new wine region.

BY NIMMI MALHOTRA

I

t took a fair bit of convincing and the “best of British luck” for Vinodhan Veloo, ex-sommelier at Odette, to place an English sparkling wine on the hallowed Champagne trolley of the three-Michelin-starred French restaurant.

As Vinodhan (now of Cloudstreet) remembers, “Being a French restaurant, there was a little bit of a pushback.” But his belief in the quality and potential of Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs 2010 won some sceptics over, with his British boss helping him tip the scales. It was the only non-Champagne wine to have ever made it to the trolley.

HILLS OF CHALK

Gusbourne Estate

Long a nation of wine drinkers, England turned to sparkling winemaking 30 years ago. A climate change-enabled warmer growing season, running from April through October, made English viticulture possible. Viticulture is a fast-growing sector with 3500 hectares of vineyards stretching mainly over the South East counties of Kent, Surrey, East and West Sussex and more cropping up at a steady pace. Chalk is the preferred soil, though not all vineyards are planted on it; limestone, greensand, and clay soil also abound. The grapes of Champagne – pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay – thrive on south-facing British slopes of low elevation sites, which maximise exposure to the sun and optimise ripening. Emulating the best practices from across the channel, English winemakers use the traditional method (used in Champagne) to craft their wines. epicurevietnam 123

Charlie Holland, CEO and head winemaker of Gusbourne

The nascent viticultural region is at roughly the same latitude and boasts chalk fields like those found in Champagne, but there are vital differences. The first is the length of the growing season. “Even though the growing season is slightly cooler than Champagne, it’s longer, about two to two and a half weeks longer. It allows us to develop a little bit more complexity in the flavour profile,” Simon Roberts, director of winemaking at Ridgeview winery, explains. Ridgeview owns 5.8ha of vines in East Sussex and sources fruit from about a dozen long-term contracts with growers.

Charlie Holland, head winemaker and CEO at Gusbourne, a 230ha winery spread over Appledore, Kent and Sussex, highlights the wider planting density as another differentiating factor.

The vines are planted at 1.5 to 2m apart, much wider than other premium wine regions, and canopies kept 2m tall to allow more sunlight to hit the bunches.

The key viticultural challenge for English vineyards is yield variation. The marginal climate and unpredictable weather results in highly varying crop sizes - from 6hl/ha to 46hl/ha, as was the case in 2018, the bumper year. An abundant vintage, although welcomed, poses its challenges. Even a bigger winery like Ridgeview, projected to produce 500,000 bottles this year, had to rent additional tanks to keep up with the produce in 2018.

“We had to stop the grape harvest for three days so the winery could catch up,” he says.

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Gusbourne Brut Reserve 2015

MARKING THEIR OWN

Stylistically, English bubbles sport a marked acidity, a signature of English grapes. The elevated acidity, in most vintages, is balanced by the physiological ripeness gained from the long growing season. “We tend to have more of this kind of orchard fruit and zippy freshness than you would find in Champagne,” says Laura Rhys, global ambassador for Gusbourne.

Stainless steel tanks are the preferred winemaking equipment with judicious use of oak. As Holland explains, “English wine is like a donut. It starts with a great attack and a lovely length, but the wines can be a bit thin in the middle and leaves a hole in the mid-palate. We use oak to plump it up and give a bit of weight in the middle of the palate. Old oak is good at doing that; it adds texture components without adding any oaky flavours. We use 2 to 3% new oak, which adds a bit of spice.”

Reserve wines, usually comprising 10 to 30% of the final blend, are used to bring consistency and to add further complexity. In the early days, however, most producers had no such reserves.

They started with vintage wines instead – blanc de blancs, blanc de noir and rosé being the main styles. In time, they built up reserves, and non-vintage styles emerged. Now, producers are finding single vineyard sites worth celebrating and boldly

Simon Roberts, director of winemaking at Ridgeview

Stephen Skelton MW

experimenting with new techniques. For example, Nyetimber’s recently launched Cuvee Chérie, a Chardonnay based demi-sec wine with 38g/l residual sugar; Ridgeview’s Oak Reserve NV, an oak-fermented sparkling chardonnay introduced in 2017; and Gusbourne’s late disgorged blanc de blancs (usually produced in cooler vintages like 2007).

Ridgeview Estate

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COMING OF AGE

The production of British fizz crossed the 10 million bottle milestone in 2018 and is tipped to grow to 40 million by 2040. It might be a drop in the ocean compared to Champagne’s annual production of 302 million bottles; however, at industry awards, the wines have dazzled many with their astounding performance.

Nyetimber was the first to win awards in the 1990s. Others followed suit. In 2010, Ridgeview took the trophy in the best sparkling wine category at Decanter World Wine Awards. Roberts recalls the change that came with it. “In 2010, the English wine industry was tiny. Most people in England hadn’t heard of wine being produced in England, let alone internationally. And because of that award, the whole world became interested.” He adds, “I think that week was a critical turning point.” Their export inquiries grew. “We were exporting to Norway at that point.

By the end of the week, we picked up another three markets.”

English wines are currently exported to over 25 countries.

British producers have since picked up many coveted international awards; had their wines poured at state banquets at Buckingham Palace sealing England’s place in the sparkling wine sphere. As if the region needed more affirmation, Grandes Marques houses of Champagne, namely Taittinger (under the name Domaine Evremond) and Pommery have each established an outpost and will soon be producing English wines.

Nyetimber Estate

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Viticultural consultant and regional chair of Decanter World Wine Awards UK, Stephen Skelton MW, has been involved with English winemaking since the beginning. He says that with low PH levels and high acidity, the wines are built for ageing.

As producers introduce more cuvées with higher prices, the question of price comes to fore. Skelton strongly believes that the price of English sparkling wines is a direct reflection of the quality of the wine. But then, there’s also positioning. “Why pitch it halfway between Prosecco and Champagne. Is it half as much better than Prosecco and not as good as Champagne?” Simon Roberts draws the cost of winemaking into the discussion. “We are still a young industry, and we don’t have the infrastructure that allows countries like France, Italy, Spain to have that reduction in production costs.”

ON OUR SHORES

Although a small market, Singapore brings in the key players of England – Nyetimber, Gusbourne, Ridgeview, Wiston Estate, Balfour Hush Heath – with notable Singapore restaurants adding them to their wine lists.

Nyetimber is the leading exporter to Asia. Murray Lang, export manager for Asia Pacific says, “First and foremost, I’m flying the flag for Nyetimber. But I suppose, because there are

Nyetimber, a key player in the Asian market

so few English sparkling wines and English wines available in Asia, I indirectly fly the flag for the whole category at the same time as well.”

While current restrictions prevent him from travelling overseas, he has pitched said flag firmly in Hong Kong (where he is based), Singapore and Japan. “Singapore and Hong Kong are very much showcase markets for Asia. Having your brand well established in these two markets can put you on a pretty good footing in terms of building awareness for other countries.”

Traditionally, Singapore is a Champagne-centric market.

“Sommeliers are spoilt for choice for Champagnes, as are consumers,” says Lang. He recognises the importance of sommelier recommendations and conducts industry tastings across Asia. “Singapore and Hong Kong sommeliers are extremely well respected, so consumers will go with their recommendations.”

GUSBOURNE BLANC DE BLANCS 2016 Grapes: Chardonnay Taste: Based in Appledore, Kent, the historic estate craft only vintage wines with 100% Estate grown grapes. Lively ripe citrus fruit, nectarines, and white summer flowers. The palate brings forth the lemon, stone fruit, a hint of toast and hazelnuts, and the acidity rounds off with the low dosage. Aged for 42 months, the finish is long and juicy. $114

Export manager Murray Lang

His efforts are bolstered by The British Beverage Company in Singapore, owned by husband-and-wife team Mike and Winnie Parsons, who champion the English wine industry by exclusively importing “Made in England” wines from producers like Ridgeview and Wiston Estate. Winnie Parsons says, “A lot of times, wine drinkers and even sommeliers are open to trying new things. And I think that’s a great start”. The Parsons are educating their clients and converting restaurants, like Irish fine-dining establishment Cure, one case at a time.

Building awareness seems to be the way forward, both domestically and internationally, as many consumers remain unaware of England’s winemaking prowess. Although English wine is still a novelty for some, it may not remain so for long. As Murray says, “When you put a glass of the product into someone’s hand and you have them taste it, the immediate realisation is – this is really good.”

RIDGEVIEW BLANC DE BLANCS 2015 Grapes: Chardonnay Taste: Ridgeview is led by the second generation of the Roberts family. Tropical notes of pineapple and lychee waft through on the nose. An elegant and delicate mousse fills the palate with bright lemon zest notes. It lingers with bright acidity and saline minerality. $140

NYETIMBER CLASSIC CUVEE MULTI-VINTAGE Grapes: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay Taste: The first Estate to ever produce sparkling wine in England. Pale gold with fine bubbles, with apples, brioche, and spice, this is the flagship cuvée with 20-35% reserve wines. Aged over three years on lees, the mousse is elegant, and the finish carries the freshness through. $98

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V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

THE SINGULAR WINES OF MONTALCINO In this edition, we explore Montalcino, home of Tuscany’s most powerful red wine, Brunello di Montalcino, and the region’s top three producers.

BY NIMMI MALHOTRA

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Sangiovese grapes

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t’s easy to fall in love with Montalcino. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is a fortressed Tuscan village two hours from Florence. Stone-cast medieval walls dating to the 13th century surround the hilltop town, dripping in bucolic charm. The meandering cobblestone streets, bell towers, and sun-soaked piazzas soak and glisten in the Tuscan sunlight. The village is lined with artisanal shops, rustic Italian restaurants, and enotecas or wine shops stacked with the two wines that define the region – Brunello di Montalcino and the younger version, Rosso di Montalcino.

You will find a slew of vantage points to take in the views of the tiled ochre roofs, undulating lands, and verdant lines of vines. Brunello and Rosso’s vineyards surround the town in every direction.

THE WINES

The hilltop Montacino town in Tuscany

Brunello di Montalcino is Italy’s celebrated long-lived red wine, an exalted expression of the sangiovese grape. This version differs from the one found in, say, Chianti or Montepulciano.

Sangiovese’s genetic mutation or clone found in Montalcino – sangiovese grossoo has a smaller berry, a brownish hue (brunello means “the brown one”), and is akin to pinot noir in that it vividly expresses site differences. The wines are decidedly more concentrated, fuller-bodied, and capable of long ageing.

By law, Brunello wine must be a pure expression of sangiovese grosso – a distinction afforded to only Montalcino in Tuscany, where most wines are blends – and released to market after four years of ageing. In the case of riserva, it is five years of which two must be in oak.

The decommissioned grapes, or younger plantings, make Rosso di Montalcino a more approachable red, which ages for a year and is primed for everyday drinking. It ensures the 250 producers in the region have good cash flow while the elder sibling, Brunello, takes half a decade to hit the shelves.

The region is home to 250 wineries, deeply dedicated to their craft and mostly small-scale and family run. Together they tend to 3,500 hectares of vineyard, surrounded by 31,000 hectares of forest lands. epicurevietnam 129

The barrel room at Casanova di Neri

BIONDI SANTI

Wine pilgrims pay homage to Biondi Santi, the iconic estate where Clementi Santi created the single-varietal Brunello style in 1880. Later generations of the Biondi Santi family helped codify the rules for Brunello Consorzio in 1960 when the region was awarded a DOC status (and later, the DOCG status, the highest endowment in Italy) and launched the wine style for many to follow.

More so, the choice of ageing in large Slovenian casks instead of French barrique is credited to Biondi Santi as well, a practice still preferred by traditional producers.

Of the three wines produced – Biondi Santi Riserva is the highest expression, made in exceptional years. Brunello di Montalcino Annata is made from a selection of vineyards.

The estate owns various plots around Montalcino, a common practice adopted across the region. Broadly, sites located in the north of Montalcino village are cooler, and those in the south are warmer. But that is a sweeping generalisation. With a patchwork of ancient soils ranging from galestro to clay, sites show their personality irrespective of their positioning on the map.

Being hilly, Montalcino vineyards are located 500m to 950m above sea level, benefiting from wide diurnal temperature ranges which add acidity to the wines. More so, vintners consider the aspect of the vineyard. Exposure to sun, soils, and gradient of slope aid in crafting a slew of expressions of the one grape – sangiovese.

Fiesole vineyard in northeast Montalcino produces “white label” Casanova di Neri

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Vineyards of Il Marroneto

IL MARRONETO

Alessandro Mori, the owner and winemaker of Il Marroneto, has 49 vintages under his belt and is a traditionalist. He says, “Marroneto is my life, and sangiovese is the colour used to paint my life” The 6.5-hectare estate is named after a nearby 13th-century building used to grind chestnuts into flour. It is located on the northern side of Montalcino, elevated at 500m above sea level.

Mori learned his craft from two teachers – Mario Cortevesio and Giulio Gambelli – whom he credits for his wine style. His wine today, he says, reflects the lessons they imparted to him in the first year. The single vineyard expression, Madonna Delle Grazie, is celebrated as one of the best in the region.

Mori emphasises the importance of the “hand of man” in winemaking, In the vineyards, he practices organic viticulture, and the cellar is where he expresses his art.

“They call me a wine artist – a man that expresses himself with wines. I can only do this because I work with sangiovese.”

Sangiovese, he says, shows a man’s personality, not just the personality of the land.

His son, Iacopo, has joined the business, and Mori is passing on the knowledge “slowly, slowly” to the next generation.

Alessandro Mori has 49 vintages of Il Marroneto under his belt

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Alessandro Mori with his son, Iacopo Mori

Sangiovese harvest at Il Marroneto

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CASANOVA DI NERI

“Montalcino is a magical place for sangiovese,” says Giacomo Neri, winemaker at Casanova di Neri.

“We have vineyards in different locations of Montalcino, in the northeast and southeast,” he elaborates. But unlike other producers, Casanova di Neri wines are mainly crafted as single single-site expression. Among these, the highest status belongs to Cerretalto, and the most popular block is Tenuta Nuova, producing 65,000 bottles.

The latest acquisition is the seven-hectare Tocci vineyard, already planted with 45-year-old vines. The resulting first vintage, Giovanni Neri 2018, has just been released in January 2023.

Over time, he elaborates that wine styles have remained the same, but they have more depth as the vineyards are older. “The name is Tenuta Nuova (new estate), but the plants are old. The wines are more persistent and more complex. Last night, I drank Tenuta Nuova 1998, and it’s still vibrant.”

Vineyards producing Brunello di Montalcino are situated at high altitude

Casanova di Neri is amongst the top producers of Brunello.

Of the special touch, Neri says, “75 percent of it is the terroir, and 25 percent is our patience, our experience, our work.”

In Asia, the wines are just as famous as Bordeaux, says Master of Wine Richard Hemming. “Brunello has similar popularity to classic Bordeaux reds such as St-Émilion – and it is stylistically similar too. For wine lovers that prefer a robust, powerful red, Brunello is well-known as a good option. In Singapore, lighter reds such as pinot noir have become more popular recently, but there are certainly plenty of drinkers still opting for fuller styles.”

Among other producers, Soldera, Il Poggiolo, Col d’Orcia, Castel Giocondo, Le Chiuse, Conti Costanti, and Valdicava are highly rated.

As the rules state, the 2018 vintage will be released worldwide this January. Notably, the 2016 vintage received excellent reviews, as has 2015. Other vintage for collectors includes 2001, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2010, and 2012.

Harvest time

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V I N E E X P E C TAT I O N S

NECTAR EMPIRE

Michael Halstrick, CEO of Bodega Norton, talks about the Swarovski family-owned Argentinian winery and its plans to expand into the South East Asia market.

BY KATHERINE ARTECHE

Michael Halstrick, a member of the Swarovski family and CEO of Bodega Norton.

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The Bodega Norton winery in the Mendoza area of Argentina.

A

mong the most esteemed wineries in Argentina is Bodega Norton, a now family-owned winery in the Mendoza area. It was founded in 1895 by English engineer Sir Edmund James Palmer Norton, which was thereafter acquired by Austrian businessman Gernot Langes-Swarovski, who also once helmed the renowned crystal empire, Swarovski. The winery is now run by Michael Halstrick, a member of the Swarovski family, who was appointed CEO in 2021. As I welcomed him to commemorate his first visit in Singapore, he tugs at his suit halfway through our conversation.

“I don’t enjoy wearing these things,” he said matter-of-factly.

He explained to me how he prefers wearing something casual at wine presentations because of its stereotypical affluence.

But his presence in Singapore calls for occasion: In partnership with Bottles & Bottles, Bodega Norton makes its debut in the Singapore market, with further plans to expand in the South East Asia region.

While he doesn’t carry the Swarovski name, the only affiliation one would be able to make upon meeting Halstrick is the black Swarovski watch on his left wrist that’s designed with a faceted dome and two slim baton hands to tell the time.

“It’s obviously different,” said Halstrick, when I asked him about the similarities in brand philosophies between Swarovski and Norton. “I can only speak for the wine business, but whatever we do as a family, we have a saying that in order to produce quality, you have to surround yourself with it.” Halstrick further harped on a good point, with it being that Norton is an easy brand to pronounce. It’s a detail that’s commonly overlooked, yet important to the average consumer, because having a name that’s easy to remember builds on customer loyalty. “You can pronounce it in every country in the world, which is not what every brand can say,” explained Halstrick. “There are some labels that people have to get used to, only to still make a mistake because they may not speak the language.”

Bodega Norton has an extensive range, comprising great entry-level white wines up to the Altura collection that champions the use of Malbec grapes, an Argentinian grape native, resulting in a wine that exhibits intensive fruitiness due to the extreme extreme high altitude terroir grown in the Uco Valley up to 4,265 ft above sea level. Malbec is also used in the Privada line up of wines, a blend that was originally reserved for the family’s private cellar. I asked Halstrick about the wine’s epicurevietnam 135

This Altura 2017 vintage is made from 100% Malbec grapes that are harvested from the Uco Valley vineyards.

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In addition to regional expansions, Bodega Norton is heavily invested in sustainability practices, as well as building a sparkling wine facility to meet demands in Argentina — and to be the first to produce one from grapes harvested over 900 meters above sea level.

While Halstrick never felt compelled to join the family business, a slight diversion in his career path led him right back to where he started anyway. “Before Bodega Norton, I was working at a bank. But I got back into the winery because it’s an exciting industry where you get to meet new people. And it’s the strangest thing because you could be in a room full of bankers but everybody wants to know the wine guy, and that opens up doors.”

The Privada label, a blend that was originally reserved for the Swarovki family’s private cellar.

Bodega Norton Reserva Chardonnay

heralded position — while the more acquainted would be able to identify an illustrious wine, arguably, the taste of a great wine is subjective. “There are unique wines that cannot be repeated,” answered Halstrick. “What we are looking for are these crystals that have to be polished within the different terroirs. It’s an opportunity for us to say that different expressions produce a different shine. It’s not just not a matter of pricing; even with a lower end wine, it has to be nice and fruity, well made and elegant.” In honor of his late father, the top cuvée is the rich, dense, dark and ageworthy Gernot Langes, a Malbec-dominated blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes.

Malbec grapes have put Argentinian viticulture on the world map, lending to the reputation of Argentinian wines. “First of all, without sounding stuck up, Malbec and Norton are pretty much synonymous,” said Halstrick, when asked about Norton’s relevance in the competitive nature of the wine industry. “The oldest Malbec is a 1974 vintage, and it’s still very much drinkable today.” On trends, he credits the growing popularity of Malbec Rosé and white wines among consumers post-pandemic. epicurevietnam 137

CELLAR CHOICE

PROFOUND REDS Chateau Musar 2016 Chateau Musar is the iconic red from Lebanon, a wine framed by civil war, financial turmoil and dogged perseverance. Widely popular around the world for its signature blend of cabernet sauvignon, carignan and cinsault, Musar is released after a long ageing of seven years.

The 2016 is perfumed and lifted with dried flowers, plum and mulberry coulis. Its supple, textured and unfurls with an hour of decanting. $105, Pinnacle Wine and Spirits

Marqués de Murrieta Reserva 2018 Rioja Reserva In the world of Riojas, Marqués de Murietta is a prominent brand. Unlike most properties in the region, Murrieta’s vast landholdings of 300 hectares ensure that all the grapes come from their own vineyards. The Rioja Reserva style is their flagship and the 2018 vintage – a blend of mainly tempranillo with dollops of graciano, mazuelo and garnacha – shows classic notes of vanilla, ripe baked red plums and cherry, integrated tannins and gentle oak, all framed with a lifted acidity. $72, The Straits Wine Company

Promontory 2015 Discovered by the famed Harlan family, Promontory is a steep hillside estate positioned across the Oakville and Yountville regions in Napa Valley. The patchwork of vineyards hides behind woodlands, forests and fog, and are cultivated with minimal intervention on volcanic and metamorphic soils. Each vintage ages in Austrian oak for five years, a unique choice preferred by Barolo producers. The 2015 vintage is laden with aromatics – from floral to cassis, olives and mulberries. It is rich and dense with polished tannins. $1,499, 1855 The Bottle Shop

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3 WOMAN-MADE FINE WHITE WINES Lawson’s Blind River Tekau Sauvignon Blanc 2017

J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2011

Lawson’s Dry Hills was started in 1992. It now produces wines in Wairau, Waihopai, Omaka and Awatere Valleys – the latter is where the Blind River Tekau fruit comes from. Wild vineyard yeast starts the fermentation naturally, imbuing a rich, juicy mouthfeel to the wine.

This vegan choice is immediately appealing, with its citrus, passion fruit and a touch of oak giving some weight. Try it with risotto, goat’s cheese and fish or chicken. Prolific assistant winemaker Rebecca Wiffin also makes wine with Blind River and The Sisters labels. $63 from crystalwines.com

Hans-Josef and Maria Becker are the brother-sister duo who took over the family estate in 1971 and continue to make a singular statement on Rheingau wines that defy the typical style. They were one of the first to change to glass Vinolok closures in 2003, which suit their long-lived styles of dry Riesling.

Using wild yeast and a quick, warm fermentation, the wines are savoury, layered and complex, and need some air to fully breathe. The Spätlese Trocken has some residual sweetness, but its main character is lean, oxidative on the nose with hazelnuts and wet stones, and ethereal on the palate, giving a bitter orange pith and apricot finish. Price on enquiry from Ares Konsultant, older vintages available.

Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs 2013 Winemaker Cherie Spriggs has released the ninth edition of Nyetimber’s Blanc de Blanc, a milestone wine when it was launched with the 1992 vintage. The estate is the first to plant Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier for English sparkling wine, a category that has since won acclaim globally. The 2013 is slightly reserved, showing a persistent, tight beading with a lively citrus, pear and green apple core and medium toastiness. Full malolactic fermentation and five years on lees bring a creamy, buttery mouthfeel, finishing with crisp, white peach fruitiness. $138 from analoguewinemerchant.com

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TIPPLE TIPS

Jim Meehan, founder of Please Don’t Tell in New York, infuses East Imperial’s new grapefruit soda into refreshing summer drinks for adults and kids alike.

Cyn Up Kiddie Cape Codder

CYN UP • 90ml Proseccco • 60ml East Imperial grapefruit soda • 25ml Cynar » Build in ingredients into a chilled double old fashioned glass, then add ice.

The building technique is used for mixed drinks, where ingredients are added into the serving glass one after another. » Garnish with a cucumber wheel.

KIDDIE CAPE CODDER • 120ml East Imperial grapefruit soda • 25ml chilled hibiscus infusion

Not created equal Jim Meehan, founder of New York’s most famous speakeasy and author of industry bible Meehan’s Bartender Manual, had a big problem – he couldn’t get a good quality grapefruit soda. Kevin Law-Smith, founder of East Imperial tonics, stepped up to the plate and together they created the ideal soda – real grapefruit juice and peel, slight cane sugar sweetness and gentle carbonation. Bonus? It’s sophisticated enough to sip on its own, giving the right bitterness to otherwise too-sweet infusions.

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» Prepare hibiscus infusion following packaged hibiscus instructions. » Combine all ingredients in a chilled collins glass, then fill with ice. » Garnish with an edible flower of choice affixed to the rim and serve with a bamboo reusable straw.

PHOTOGRAPHY EDDIE TEO STYLING DARRYL PESTANA ON LOCATION MO BAR

hibiscus infusion

Native Garden, a play on gin and tonic, is inspired by the Nam Dok Anchan drink, a popular drink found in Thailand & Vietnam where local versions are often mixed with herbs, cinnamon, passion fruit, or ginger.

Bartender tip: The hibiscus species is the national flower of Malaysia and is packed with antioxidants.

The tart, slightly sweet refreshing tea makes an excellent summer beverage.

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF CE LA VI

B A R AT H O M E

Native Garden Andrew Hyman at Ce La Vi creates Native Garden, a refreshing drink that’s perfect for hot summer days.

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

METHOD

30ml 15ml 15ml

Stir ingredients (except tonic water) together

30g Hibiscus Tea 900ml Hot Water 100ml Grenadine

Tanqueray London Dry Gin Giffard Crème de Cassis Freshly Squeezed Lime Juice 30ml Hibiscus Tea 15ml Cinnamon Syrup 1 piece Rosemary 45ml Tonic Water Dehydrated orange and rosemary spring, for garnish

Remove rosemary sprig, strain over cubed ice in a small wine glass.

Top with tonic water.

Garnish with dehydrated orange and fresh rosemary sprig.

FOR HOMEMADE HIBISCUS TEA

Add all ingredients to a large container, steep for 15 minutes and strain. Allow to cool before bottling.

Yields 1 litre. Store in fridge.

ROUND THE WORLD TICKET

In 2001, Andrew joined Shaker Inc, a drinks consultancy company.

They were opening bars around the world, and he jumped in at the chance to travel with them. His job was to train and develop the local bartenders in different cities across continents and stay on for another three to six months to iron out any kinks.

INDIA TOOK HIS CREATIVITY TO THE NEXT LEVEL

Andrew grew up around Indian culture in Birmingham. When the opportunity came to go to Mumbai, he was all for it. He says, “The challenge, in the beginning, was to understand the palate.

As opposed to the U.K., which has a slightly sweeter palate, India has more of a penchant for sour and strong flavours.” He soon realised his first lesson.”The cocktails had to be strong, or there would be anarchy.”

THE POMEGRANATES TALES

ANDREW HYMAN WHO: Lead Mixologist, Andrew Hyman JOINED: Ce La Vi, Level 57, Tower 3, Marina Bay Sands FROM: England

The other problem he faced: lack of modifying agents. India had an abundance of base spirits but a minimal range of liqueurs, tinctures and mixers. Andrew had to get innovative. “I found myself going back to the barebones of mixology.” When he couldn’t find grenadine, he found pomegranates in abundance, turned them into molasses and distilled them. Sourcing botanicals was a task easily lost in translation. “The botanicals have different names there,” he says, “I spent hours looking for gentian root, which in India is called swertia chiretta. I was scouring different markets and suppliers for hours before I was able to find it.”

LOCKDOWN CREATIVITY

BACKGROUND

“I came to Singapore in February 2020, worked five weeks and then everything closed. I just spent my time thinking about new drinks, many of which are now being served at Ce La Vi – or they may be a twist on one of those ideas.”

ACCIDENTAL MIXOLOGIST

“My travels hugely impacted this menu – particularly the time I spent in Australia and India, as well as my Caribbean roots.” Take Old Memories as an example, based on the popular Thai dessert that is coconut corn sago pudding. “There was a coconut ice cream with condiments such as pandan noodles, pomegranate, sweet corn and cashew nuts – this was the first time I discovered this marrying of coconut and corn.”

Growing up in England, Andrew found his calling as a Frenchtrained chef. Or so he thought. A brief stint behind the bar steered him to the world of mixology. In the last 20 plus years, he has thrown a drink in Cape Town, Abu Dhabi, Mumbai, Beirut, and even the open seas when he worked on the Princess cruise liner.

He brings this rich experience and multicultural sensibilities to Ce La Vi as lead mixologist.

“It was a bit of an accident” he laughs. As part of his hotel management education, Andrew was asked to spend a few days behind the front desk and he never went back. Cooking influenced his new love of bartending.“To be able to create, for me, is where my passion really comes from.”

THE NEW MENU

LAST WORDS

“I believe my strength has just been able to create flavour.

And it’s what I really try to focus on: to try and get as much flavour out of whatever products I’m using to create a cocktail.” epicurevietnam 143

RAISING THE BARS

COOL MINIMALISM MEETS WARM HOSPITALITY ASMR, one of Vietnam's newest establishments, can be found in the city's tropical enclave district, Thao Dien in District 2. Its inconspicuous exterior belies the sleek interior design and mysterious vibe that visitors may expect from this new hotspot. Initiated by Diageo World Class Vietnam Champion 2021 Vu Ngoc and overseen by Takeover&Co. (created by the people behind Vietnam's Cocktail Festival) ASMR is a purposefully simple idea from its decor, service, and even down to the tableware so that both customers and bartenders may pay undivided attention to the beverages. To capture the spirit of a cocktail bar — a place to meet and interact over a well-crafted and artfullypresented beverage — and to, of course, establish a standard for the industry, the founding team says it was important to "keep it simple, stupid" and avoid social media fluff. Its name is an acronym for Acid, Sweet and Sour, Molecular and Rich. Fermentation, smoke, and foam are all on the agenda, and in line with the theme, drinks are given those incorporate elements such as pandan, caviar bitters, and popcorn, in addition to the more traditional hardware. 15 Xuan Thuy Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: +84 96 858 00 15

A WEE DRAM OF MODERN LUXURY

District 2's Dram Bar is a bar created in the European style that is opulent and magnificent. The exterior of Dram Bar has wowed customers with its regal design and finely textured lines. The inside of the restaurant is pursuing a modern elegance.

The drinkery prioritizes the selection of warm tones combined with luxurious golden lights to create an irresistible charm and attraction. The combination of wood floors and unique decorative lamps, combined with artistic paintings next to high leather chairs, just oozes style and sophistication. In addition to the glitz and glamour of the ambience, the drink selection at Dram Bar is something that no one would want to miss. The bar provides a symposium of alcoholic beverages, including classic cocktails, signature cocktails, mocktails, craft beer, and an extensive portfolio of whiskeys from around the globe. It can be said that this place is no different from a paradise for you to freely relax with a glass of sweet soju under the charming lights.

The Dram bar, situated on the first floor, under the Stoker Woodfired Grill & Bar restaurant, will become your luxury dream destination with its expert service and a team of well-trained professionals. 2 Dang Huu Pho Streer, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: +84 90 110 27 23

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MAGNIFICENT VISTAS INVIGORATING THE MIND New perspectives of the city have become available with the construction of Landmark 81 and the improvement of the riverfront at Thao Dien. Check out the scene from the comfort of the Lunar Lounge. If you're searching for a place that has it all, go no further than Lunar Lounge, with its stunning panoramic vistas of the cityscape of downtown Saigon, this open-air rooftop bar is a testament to style, comfort and sophistication. The lounge is versatile, chill during the weekdays and party till late into the night on weekends. The simplicity of its beverage menu offers patrons classic premium cocktails to enjoy, some signatures, an extensive wine selection, a wide range of cold local and imported beers, and a VIP room bookable for sporting events or intimate karaoke evenings. Guests who feel peckish can order from Tippy’s Mexican restaurant downstairs. They'll bring you a Mexican feast to the rooftop, where you can enjoy it while looking at the city skyline and sipping a signature drink. 8/3, 49B Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City.

TAKING LIFE TO NEW HEIGHTS Saigon has one of the most awe-inspiring cityscapes in all of Asia.

This city is brimming with activity and vitality, and sometimes the greatest way to appreciate it is from above. The Social Club Restaurant features the best rooftop bar in Saigon, a menu of culinary delights, a fantastic selection of the finest cocktails, and an extensive wine list that all come together in one perfect moment to highlight the best of Saigon. Take a moment, savour a sip of your delectable cocktail, and take in the spectacular beauty of the world far below. At the Social Club's rooftop bar, you may choose from a range of sitting options, from high-top tables to plush armchairs, all while taking in the stunning vistas of the city below. Our rooftop bar's relaxing ambience is a welcome change from the bustle of the city below, and as the sun sets over the skyscrapers of Saigon, the music sets the scene for the kind of sunset vibes that have earned The Social Club repeated recognition as the best rooftop bar in Saigon. 23rd-24th floor, Hotel des Arts Saigon, 76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3 Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: +84 901 379 129

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LET YOUR EMOTIONS FLOW People can feel and show as many as twenty-one different emotions at once. However, regardless of age or emotional state, the soul is always in need of care, and 21 GAM was created to do just that.

At 21 GAM, everything has the hue of time painted onto it. With the longest bar in Hanoi, with a length of more than 11 meters, fashioned from reclaimed wooden ship planks that float on the beaches of Nam Dinh, hard as rock and salty with the taste of time.

This magnificent bar is set in an antique building that is more than a century old, with amazing lighting that imbues the space with a warm yellow hue, encouraging personal conversations or the most serene feelings. You may always expect to find something new and exciting at this serial watering hole. Choose from speciality drinks, an ever-expanding wine list, or a smooth scotch. The soothing and joyful effects of 21 Grams are undeniable. 26 Truong Han Sieu Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi. Tel: +84 98 811 11 21

CREATING A BUZZ IN HANOI Bee'Znees is a speakeasy in the middle of bustling Hanoi that transports its patrons to the Roaring Twenties. To put it simply, it is the best place in the world to go if you value privacy and sophistication. If you need a break from your busy schedule, bring your friends, co-workers, or loved ones for a night out where they can relax and unwind to great music and a fun atmosphere while sipping on classic cocktails with creative variations. The lobby's entryway is a show-stopper. The entrance is a bookcase. To the other side of it, you'll find yourself in Roaring Twenties America.

The proprietors made an effort to create an atmosphere of warmth and ease, and it shows. You can come as you are or as you choose to seem, and you will always find a comfortable nook. Inside, the world map etched on the roof is undoubtedly Bee'Znees' most distinctive feature. A dark gold hue, reminiscent of a bygone era, permeates the space owing to the bar's illumination. The bees certainly seem to be hard at work here. Constant experimentation with the menu and hosting of live music nights, with a penchant for soothing jazz sounds. 163 Phung Hung Street, Cua Dong Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi. Tel: +84 34 636 5588

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DARK AND MYSTICAL WORKS OF MAGIC The Alchemist is a type of cocktail establishment that recognises and responds to the ever-changing interests of Hanoi's clientele.

The staff members here are exceptionally well-versed in their respective disciplines and take great pride in their work. There are oddities galore adorning the bar's interior, and the surreal and mystical artworks adorning the walls of The Alchemist are another eye-catching design element. Cocktail connoisseurs in search of tasty drinks and relaxing jazz tunes flock there each day The cocktails, in contrast to the mysterious atmosphere, arrive in a riot of colour. Take a seat at the bar and wrap your laughing gear around one of their many obscurely named signature cocktails, including "Pearl of the Orient," "The Flying Dutch Man," or "Queen of the Hebrides," and prepare to be tickled. 25 Bat Su Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi. Tel: +84 96 871 34 42

A NIGHT AT THE THEATRE Scarlet drapes at the entryway of The Black Sheep - Cocktail Theatre make it stand out on Tng Duy Tan Street In the centre of old Hanoi quarters. To enter this dramatic cocktail lounge is to feel as though you've stepped out onto a theatre stage, thanks to the sensational design of the bar's entrance. Stepping into The Black Sheep, you will experience a true art space, designed to look like an opulent and ornate theatre. Designed with black as the accent colour and red drapery to add a touch of mystery and sophistication. Numerous soft and calm nooks are illuminated by subdued lighting. Not only does The Black Sheep's bar feels like a theatre but even has a drinks menu full of concoctions named after legendary theatre characters, such as "Romeo" and "Jean Valjean, embodying the whole range of that character's emotional journey. Visitors can unwind in a pleasant and intimate setting that nonetheless emanates a bit of dramatic romance while listening to music, sipping delectable beverages, and trading witty anecdotes. 28 Tong Duy Tan Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi. Tel: +84 81 420 28 28

PEOPLE COME AND GO, ONLY MEMORIES STAY One of the latest hot bars in to hit Hanoi is The Terminal - Central Cocktail Bar, located on the central street of Phung Hung! The Terminal is a vivid replica of New York City’s famous Central Station Terminal and has been meticulously recreated down to the smallest of details. From the characteristic dome, Baroque architecture down to the infamous 4 faced domed clock. There are sections within the circular bar, just like at a ticket booth, are even given a “train pass”, with some inspirational quotes when you order a drink. There is a VIP room upstairs, or you can "dance" at the tables near the bar on the ground floor. All of them have received "steady" ratings from partygoers. The menu here is also New York-themed, with custom and unique drinks like New York Sour and New York Old Fashioned. There are so many reasons that young Vietnamese and tourists have been fascinated by this place and are inviting each other with the historic catchphrase “Meet Me Under The Clock”! 28-30 Phung Hung Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi. Tel: +84 96 303 86 54

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THE DIALOGUE BETWEEN THE LAND, THE SEA AND ITS PEOPLE Staged for four consecutive nights from 19-22 April 2023, “The Dialogue between the Land, the Sea and its People” transported guests on a multi-sensory journey into the island’s cultural and culinary heritage

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egent Phu Quoc, IHG Hotels & Resorts’ sparkling jewel on Vietnam’s “Pearl Island,” has successfully staged its inaugural Regent Taste Studio, a one-of-a-kind, interactive dining experience that brought together leading local talent from the worlds of art, design, fashion and gastronomy in a four-day creative showcase.

This exclusive multi-sensory dining journey ran from 19th to 22nd April 2023 – to coincide with the resort’s first anniversary – and immersed guests in the essence of their exotic destination.

Titled “The Dialogue Between the Land, the Sea and its People,” this unique culinary occasion took the form of a theatrical play divided into seven acts, each of which paid homage to Phu Quoc’s cultural heritage. For this special collaboration, Ms. Devon Nguyen, fashion designer and abstract artist, created the “Capsule Collection” of one-of-a-kind gowns, inspired by the Regent Taste Studio, and Phu Quoc’s natural wonders.

Act 1 of the evening, “Symbiosis,” was staged at The Gallery and featured a reimagined Artist’s Studio with a live demonstration of pearls from Ngoc Hien Pearl Farm and a jewelry-making workshop. This opening act set the stage for the rest of the evening, which drew inspiration from the connections between the land and sea and how these two worlds are interpreted through art and gastronomy. The first gown from Devon Nguyen’s collection was presented in the re-imagined Gallery as well.

Just as a theatrical production moves between scenes, Acts 2 to 6 were staged at Oku, the resort’s signature restaurant, which was reimagined especially for this one-of-a-kind occasion.

Each act saw Regent Phu Quoc’s culinary masters, Devon Nguyen’s “Capsule Collection” and music from the Ho Chi Minh City Conservatory of Music, all united to present various interpretations of Phu Quoc’s seasons, the island's natural beauty and marine world.

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Act One gown by Devon Nguyen

Act one - Ngoc Hien Pearl Farm Artisan painting on a fossilized giant clam and Pearl Artisan

Act 2 of Devon Nguyen’s gown featuring “The Shape of the Sea”

Act Two, Phu Quoc Clams, presented by Daniel Huynh, Chef de Cuisine at Ocean Club

Act 2, titled “The Shape of the Sea,” saw Daniel Huynh, Chef de Cuisine at Ocean Club, present an exquisite dish of Phu Quoc Clams, while Act 3, “Full Bloom,” paid homage to the bountiful gifts of Mother Nature with an original, artistic plate of Salted Egg Mantis Shrimp, crafted by Huan Tran, Chef de Cuisine at Rice Market.

Diners were also treated to the first two parts in Devon’s Capsule Collection – with floor-length gowns one with a mermaid silhouette, and the other a strapless gown with intricate lace detailing.

Act 4, “Essence of Life,” allowed The Anh, Executive Sous Chef, to demonstrate the Phu Quoc Forest, a creative composition of yellow ant’s eggs, kaffir lime, edible flowers and rose myrtles.

Act 5, “Spectrum of Contrasts,” saw Chef Andy Huynh present Japanese Wagyu Beef Two Ways, which highlighted Phu Quoc’s unexpected beauty, unique textures and tastes, creating a true spectrum of contrasts.

The culinary symphony came to a crescendo with Act 6, “The World of Art: Limitless,” as Duyen Nguyen, Regent Phu Quoc’s Executive Pastry Chef, created an original dessert of Peppered Strawberries, which used local ingredients to merge the worlds of art, fashion and cuisine.

Act 3, Salted Egg Mantis Shrimp, presented byHuan Tran, Chef de Cuisine at Rice Market

Act 4, Phu Quoc Forest, presented by The Anh, Executive Sous Chef

Act 5, Japanese Wagyu Beef Two Ways, presented by Andy Huynh, Chef de Cuisine at Oku

Act 6, Peppered Strawberries, presented by Duyen Nguyen, Executive Pastry Chef

Throughout these acts, Devon’s “Cápsule Collection” continued as models revealed a forest-inspired gown with organic woven patterns in act four, a vivid contrasting red and white dress in act five, and finally, a dramatic, full volume ballgown in act six.

Diners were also treated to the first two parts in Devon’s Capsule Collection – with floor-length gowns one with a mermaid silhouette, and the other a strapless gown with intricate lace detailing.

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EXPERIENCE THE ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS IN A NEVER-BEFORE-SEEN CULINARY EVENT

The Reverie Saigon is proud to present a new and exclusive series of dinners that will pay tribute to the four natural elements of water, earth, air, and fire. The ‘Essential Elements’ culinary event features the combined talents of some of the leading local and international culinary minds who will create menus inspired by each elemental theme.

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hese dinners promise to be a multi-faceted experience that is not to be missed for any serious gourmand. Guests will enjoy a fusion of culinary expertise from Café Cardinal's Paul Pettini, Esta's Francis Thuan, Lavelle's Thao Na, Nen Light's Summer Le, Da Vittorio Saigon's Matteo Fontana, and The Reverie Saigon's Executive Chef Marcelo Geraldini.

Each dinner will offer a six-course menu that perfectly captures the essence of the corresponding element. Expect to be wowed as these exceptional chefs work their magic in the kitchen and create a meal that will confound your expectations of fine dining.

Starting on Thursday, March 30th, the first event's theme is Water. Café Cardinal's Paul Pettini and Nén Light's Summer Le will come together to create a sixcourse menu, with three courses prepared by each chef, at the Café Cardinal pool terrace at The Reverie Saigon. Renowned for weaving stories through her menus, Chef Le tells the tale of her seaside home of Danang, while Pettini hails from the island of Corsica.

The second event, themed on Earth, will be held at Da Vittorio Saigon on Thursday, April 20th, with Cafe Cardinal's Paul Pettini joining forces with Da Vittorio Saigon's Matteo Fontana. The soil that grows the most prized and desired truffles in the world, the centuryold olive trees producing the finest oils, and the unique San Marzano tomato will showcase what the earth has to offer at its best.

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Da Loc will be one of the official partners for the wines served during the events. The supplier will not only support in the selection and pairing of the wines, which will follow the elements theme, but will also provide a sommelier, present at each of the five dinners. The sommelier will assist in introducing and explaining the wines paired with the dinner, adding to the story telling during the events. In addition, Acqua Panna and San Pellegrino will be the official waters of the entire dinner series, with Classic Fine Foods the official distributors of these waters for Vietnam.

The air we breathe, the soft caress of a cool breeze, the wafting aromas or beautiful food slowly cooking, is why Air is the theme for the third event on Thursday, May 18th, and we will see Café Cardinal's Paul Pettini and Lavelle's Thao Na combining their talents.

Fire made cooking possible, transforming all raw things just like magic. The fourth event, themed on Fire, is perhaps the most elemental and will be held at Café Cardinal on Thursday, June 22nd. This dinner will feature Café Cardinal's Paul Pettini and Esta Saigon's Francis Thuan heating up the kitchen with a six-course menu.

Finally, on Friday, July 21st, the Evolutions dinner will bring together all the elements to create something greater than the sum of their parts. This not-to-be-missed evening will feature the combined culinary talents of Café Cardinal's Paul Pettini, Esta Saigon's Francis Thuan, Lavelle Library's Thao Na, Nén Light's Summer Le, Da Vittorio Saigon's Matteo Fontana, and finally, The Reverie Saigon's Executive Chef Marcelo Geraldini.

THE REVERIE SAIGON Times Square Building 22-36 Nguyen Hue & 57-69F Dong Khoi, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, HCMC Tel: +84 (0) 28 3823 6688

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A WHIMSICAL GASTRONOMIC JOURNEY OF WORLD CUISINE TO PHU QUOC Continuing the journey of bringing the world's culinary elite to Pearl Island, JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay welcomed Japanese Two-Michelin-Starred Chef Takagi Kazuo in a special culinary event where diners could experience the taste of culinary masterpiece in the lavish space of Pink Pearl restaurant, designed by the talented architect Bill Bensley.

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uring the three (03) days of the event, March 24-26, 2023, Chef Takagi Kazuo and the Chef de Cuisine of Pink Pearl - Kjell Kollin presented two (02) menus for lunch and dinner with unique flavors, creating a delicate blend of Japanese and French cuisines, promising a sublime feast that touches all the senses.

Chef Takagi Kazuo shined with his impressive achievements in his career, including the awarding of two Michelin stars to his restaurant, Kyoryuri Takagi, which he owns and runs. The restaurant is well-known for its Kyoto-style cuisine (Kyo-ryori),

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in which dishes are delicately prepared, using the freshest, signature ingredients and seasonings in seasons. Enjoy the hospitality with each dish and the beautiful decoration depicting nature's poetic and generous beauty. "Authentic Kyoto cuisine today is really rare even in Japan, because the preparation of dishes in the traditional Kyoto style is very laborious, complex, and meticulous," Chef Takagi Kazuo explained, "but I still want to continue introducing this cuisine with a long history." He had a deep respect and appreciation for traditional values, particularly food, and he wished to share those values with everyone.

Graduating from Kyoto Sangyo University, Chef Takagi Kazuo spent many years working at Kyoyamoto, a prestigious Kyoto restaurant that opened in 1877 and has preserved not only traditional Kyoto dishes but also ancient architecture to this day.

Each dish Chef Takagi creates was infused with the spirit of Kyo-ryori and reflected the perfect balance of sophistication, visual beauty, and subtlety in taste. His passion was creativity, and that creativity is devoted to the culinary arts. He trained all of his employees to tell the stories behind each dish in order to provide guests with the best dining experience possible.

Chef Takagi delicately and vividly told the story of spring with taste, color, and aroma abundantly spreading on each plate in this March culinary event at Pink Pearl restaurant. Each dish was a work of art that has been meticulously crafted.

Slow-cooked Hokkaido scallops, traditional Japanese grouper, Armagnac foie gras, Wagyu steak marinated in Koji yeast, Transmontamus lobster caviar, Alaska king crab ravioli, and special dessert made of Valrhona chocolate were among the 05-course lunch and 09-course dinner menus. All of this took visitors on an exciting journey to discover two of the world's most popular cuisines. Lunch costed VND 2,450,000++ / adult, while dinner costed VND 4,920,000++ / adult.

Dean Kristian Petersen, who is also the General Manager of the resort, said: “We're thrilled to welcome and to collaborate with Chef Takagi Kazuo – who is a master of Kyoto-style cuisine. This collaboration reflects our ongoing commitment to innovation and excellence in the world of fine dining. We believe that by bringing together different culinary traditions and styles, we can push the boundaries of what is possible and offer our guests a truly exceptional experience. We look forward to sharing Chef Takagi's exquisite Kyoto-style cuisine with our guests, and to continuing to push the limits of culinary creativity. Thank you for your support and bon appétit!!”

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LE DU IN BANGKOK CLAIMS NO.1 SPOT AT ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS 2023 Le Du in Bangkok has secured the coveted No.1 spot at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, announced at a live awards ceremony which took place today in Singapore. Hosted in collaboration with destination partner Singapore Tourism Board, this is the first full-scale gathering of the region’s gastronomic community since 2019. Anan Saigon was awarded No.40 and crowned The Best Restaurant in Vietnam in 2023.

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reated from the votes of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy, an influential gender-balanced group of more than 300 leaders made up of food writers and critics, chefs, restaurateurs and regional culinary experts, this year’s list includes restaurants from 19 cities across the region, and these include seven new entries and a further eight re-entries.

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Le Du, which has remained consistently on the list since 2017, is named The Best Restaurant in Asia, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna. Under the tutelage of dynamic young chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn, the restaurant presents a modern take on refined Thai food interpreted through a French-leaning lens. Its menus champion the use of seasonal and local ingredients and the steadfast belief in the superiority of Thai produce.

Bangkok is represented by a total of nine restaurants on the list, among which Nusara, also helmed by Le Du’s Chef Ton, places No.3. Gaggan Anand re-enters the rankings at No.5, along with restaurants Sorn (No.9), Sühring (No.22) and Raan Jay Fai (No.38). Potong and Baan Tepa, both led by female chefs, debut at No.35 and No.46 respectively. Other new entrants are Gaggan Anand’s Mexican-Indian eatery Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh at No.33.

Osaka’s La Cime is at No.8, Villa Aida from Wakayama retains its position at No.14 and Kyoto’s Cenci moves up 11 places to No.32. Anan Saigon is Ho Chi Minh’s solo entry at No.40, while

THE 2023 LIST OF ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS

Taipei’s Mume re-enters the list at No.45. Debuting on the list at No.30, Avartana in Chennai claims the Highest New Entry Award. Mumbai and Delhi both have a restaurant each: Masque at No.16 and Indian Accent at No.19 respectively. Manila’s Toyo Eatery re-enters the ranking at No.42 and also wins the Flor de Caña Sustainable Restaurant Award.

The 2023 list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants was revealed at the live awards ceremony held on the 28th March 2023 in Singapore at Resorts World Sentosa (RWS), Asia’s premium lifestyle destination resort, located on Singapore’s resort island of Sentosa and home to world-class attractions.

1. Le Du (Bangkok) 2. Sézanne (Tokyo) 3. Nusara (Bangkok) 4. Den (Tokyo) 5. Gaggan Anand (Bangkok) 6. Odette (Singapore) 7. Florilège (Tokyo) 8. La Cime (Osaka City) 9. Sorn (Bangkok) 10. Narisawa (Tokyo) 11. Labyrinth( Singapore) 12. Sazenka (Tokyo) 13. The Chairman (Hong Kong) 14. Villa Aida (Wakayama) 15. Mosu (Seoul) 16. Masque (Mumbai) 17. Meta (Singapore) 18. Fu He Hui (Shanghai) 19. Indian Accent (New Delhi) 20. Ode (Tokyo) 21. Zén (Singapore) 22. Sühring (Bangkok) 23. Onjium (Seoul) 24. Burnt Ends (Singapore) 25. Euphoria (Singapore)

26. Cloudstreet (Singapore) 27. Les Amis (Singapore) 28. Mingles (Seoul) 29. Neighborhood (Hong Kong) 30. Avartana (Chennai) 31. Ensue (Shenzhen) 32. Cenci (Kyoto) 33. Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh (Bangkok) 34. Da Vittorio (Shanghai) 35. Potong (Bangkok) 36. Born (Singapore) 37. Wing (Hong Kong) 38. Raan Jay Fai (Bangkok) 39. Wing Lei Palace (Macau) 40. Anan Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) 41. Mono (Hong Kong) 42. Toyo Eatery (Manila) 43. Sichuan Moon (Macau) 44. L'Effervescence (Tokyo) 45. Mume (Taipei) 46. Baan Tepa (Bangkok) 47. Born & Bred (Seoul) 48. Metiz (Makati) 49. Caprice (Hong Kong) 50. Refer (Beijing)

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WHERE TO FIND

• Mr. Anh Restaurant • Nen Restaurant • Olivia’s Prime Steakhouse • Pizza 4p’s Hoang Van Thu • Retro Kitchen and Bar • The Rachel Restaurant • The Temptation Restaurant • Tra House & Bistro

Wyndham Garden Cam Ranh

HOTEL Ho Chi Minh • An Lam Saigon River • Caravelle • Chloe Gallery • Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon • Hotel Des Arts • Hotel Nikko Saigon • Intercontinental Asiana Saigon • Lotte Legend • Le Meridien Saigon • Mai House Saigon • Mia Saigon • New World Hotel • Norfolk Mansion • Novotel Saigon Centre • Oakwood Residence Saigon • Park Hyatt Saigon • Pullman Hotel • Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon • Rex Hotel • Saigon Prince Hotel • Sedona Suites • Sofitel Saigon Plaza • Sheraton Saigon Hotel • Sherwood Residence • Somerset Vista Hochiminh City • The Reverie Saigon • The Myst Dong Khoi • Villa Song Saigon • Windsor Plaza Hotel Con Dao • Poulo Condo • Sixsense Con Dao Nha Trang • An Lam Retreats Ninh Van Bay • Intercontinental Nha Trang • Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa • Sixsense Ninh Van Bay • The Anam Da Nang • Fusion Maia Danang • Furama Resort & Spa • Hyatt Regency Danang Resort And Spa • Intercontinental Da Nang

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Hoi An • Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai Hue • Alba Wellness Resort • Banyan Tree Lang Co Ha Noi • Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake • Intercontinental Hanoi Landmark72 • JW Marriott Hotel Hanoi • Sheraton Hanoi Hotel • Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi Phu Quoc • Fusion Resort Phuquoc • Hyatt Regency Nam Nghi Phu Quoc Island • Intercontinental Phu Quoc Long Beach Resort • JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa RESTAURANT Ho Chi Minh • An Vien Restaurant • Anh Tukk Modern Thai Cuisine • Argentinian Steakhouse El Gaucho • Au Lac Do Brazil Restaurant • Boomarang Bistro Saigon • L’usine Cafe & Restaurant • La Villa French Restaurant • Hoa Túc Restaurant • Moo Beefsteak • Opus Sai Gon • Pendolasco Restaurant • Uraetei Yakiniku Restaurant • Refinery Bar & Restaurant • San Fu Lou • Tandoor Vietnam • The Log Restaurant • Thai Cong Restaurant • Villa Royale Downtown Antiques & Tea Room • 3G Trois Gourmands Da Nang • Bushido Restaurant • Bistecca Restaurant Danang • Don Cipriani’s • El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse • Hai Cang Da Nang Restaurant

Ha Noi • Bow Thai • Cloud Nine Restaurant • EMM’s French Bistro • Essence Restaurant • French Grill • Hanoi Garden Restaurant • Hanoi Ocean House • Hanoi Serene Cuisine Restaurant • La Fiorentina - Italian Restaurant • La Badiane • La Verticale • Madame Hien • Maison Vie Restaurant - Fine French Cuisine • Kimono Japanese Restaurant • Opera Garden Restaurant • T.U.N.G Dining • Red Bean Restaurant • Teddy’s American Grill House • Tunglok Heen AIRPORT Ho Chi Minh Tan Son Nhat International Airport International Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Rose Lounge • Lotus Lounge 2 • Orchid Lounge • Le Saigonnais Lounge Domestis Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Le Saigonnais Lounge Da Lat Lien Khuong International Airport • Lien Khuong Airport Nha Trang Cam Ranh International Airport International Terminal • Lotus Lounge • Sun Coast Lounge Domestis Terminal • The Champ Lounge Ha Noi Noi Bai International Airport International Terminal • Song Hong Business Lounge Domestis Terminal • Song Hong Premium Lounge

WHERE TO BUY Ho Chi Minh • Phuong Nam Vincom Dong Khoi • Phuong Nam Saigon Centre • Phuong Nam An Phu Supermarket • Phuong Nam Estella Place • Phuong Nam Parkson Hung Vuong • Phuong Nam Vivo City • Phuong Nam Crescent Mall • Phuong Nam Vincom Le Van Viet • Phuong Nam Book City Garden Mall • Phuong Nam Book City Van Hanh Mall • Ca Chep Bookstore 211-213 Vo Van Tan, District 3 Ha Noi • Phuong Nam Garden Mall • Phuong Nam Lotte Center • Phuong Nam Mega Mall Royal City • Phuong Nam Vincom Ba Trieu • Phuong Nam Vincom Nguyen Chi Thanh Binh Duong • Phuong Nam Aeon Mall Binh Duong Dong Nai • Phuong Nam Vincom Bien Hoa • Phuong Nam 113-115 Dong Khoi Street, Tam Hiep Ward Da Lat • Phuong Nam Vincom Bao Loc • Phuong Nam Lien Khuong Airport • Phuong Nam 279 Phan Dinh Phung Street Nha Trang • Phuong Nam 17 Thai Nguyen Street, Phuoc Tan Ward Da Nang • Phuong Nam 153 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Phuoc Ninh Ward, Hai Chau District • Phuong Nam Vincom Da Nang • Phuong Nam Danang Airport Can Tho • Phuong Nam 06 Hoa Binh Street, An Cu Ward, Ninh Kieu District

Black Vinegar Restaurant New World Saigon Hotel

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E P I C U R E L OV E S

MACKENZIE-CHILDS Wildflowers Enamel 2 Qt Tea Kettle

Bubbling over with MacKenzie-Childs style, the Pink Wildflowers Enamel 2 Quart Tea Kettle will have you finding new reasons to put the kettle on to boil. The heavy-gauge steel underbody is decorated with hand-applied floral transfers on hand-painted pink splots and rimmed in bronzed stainless steel. Wood handle and glass-topped lid. Gorgeous filled with fresh-cut flowers or greens, too.

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Urban Luxury Resort | Championship Golf | Lifestyle Destination

Molteni. Own your dream!

A symbiosis of traditional stoves and the most advanced technologies, Molteni is the instrument used by the virtuosi of great cooking.

These unique creations have been made to measure for you for nearly 80 years.

France, depuis 1923 www.molteni.com Molteni. We are part of the Electrolux family. Share more of our thinking at www.electrolux.com.