AAA Via Oregon/Idaho - September+October 2024

SEPTEMBER + OCTOBER 2024

DISCOVER ARTISAN CHEESEMAKERS LUMBERJACK WEEKEND AAA DEALS & DISCOUNTS

THE AAA MAGAZINE

Birdwatching NATURE’S FEATHERED FINERY

FRENCH CONNECTION

CRUISE BURGUNDY AND PROVENCE

VISIT JACKSONVILLE, OREGON GHOST TOWN HISTORY

1

January + February 2022

ULTIMATE FALL ROAD TR IP:

Discover Medford, Oregon

Getting Here is Easy

Find Tranquility in Medford

A quick flight or easy road trip lands explorers in the

With fewer crowds, the Rogue Valley warmly

heart of the Rogue Valley. Conveniently located off

welcomes spontaneous road trippers. Medford

I-5, the scenic drive from Portland or Seattle makes

offers a serene retreat for families, wine

Medford an ideal destination for a romantic

enthusiasts, arts lovers, and outdoor explorers,

weekend or a fun getaway with friends.

providing the perfect impromptu destination for those seeking a blend of adventure and

Fall in Love with Rogue Valley Wine Country

small-town charm.

With clear blue skies and comfortable temperatures, fall in the Rogue Valley is an ideal time to sip your way through the area’s 85+ wineries and tasting rooms. Enjoy one of the most diverse wine regions in the world while taking in the vibrant autumn hues of Southern Oregon.

@travelmedford | travelmedford.org

MORE WINNERS MORE FUN!

With over 1,100 Vegas-style slots, table games, scenic golf, a Family FunPlex, live entertainment and delicious restaurants, you'll find endless ways to play just a short drive away!

DOWNLOAD OUR APP! Book hotel rooms, purchase event tickets and MORE! Plus, find everything APPening at Wildhorse!

CASINO • HOTEL • GOLF • RV • DINING • FUNPLEX 800.654.9453 • Pendleton, OR I-84 Exit 216 • wildhorseresort.com F 05877.TT.04.24

To learn more about migration corridors and the Watch for Wildlife Fund, visit us online at myowf.org/wildlifemoves or scan the code to the right.

LEARN MORE

{CONTENTS}

SEPTEMBER + OCTOBER

COLCKWISE FROM TOP ISTOCK.COM/ JAMESVANCOUVER | MARTINA PATELL A | SHANIKO TALIA GALVIN

34

BIRDING CALLS

2024 Volume 26, Issue 5

13

SMART TRAVEL

Fall safety checklists,

Join legions of enthusiasts who seek out feathered beauty at some of the best habitats in Oregon and Idaho.

electric vehicle tips, plus discounted sports tickets.

21

ON THE ROAD

Explore lumberjack days, canine royalty, wine-country pride and heritage festivals.

26

CHEESE, PLEASE

Visit local makers to taste flavors and see artisan processes.

29 WEEKENDER

Jacksonville, Oregon offers an invitation to discover history and culinary tastes with its new inns and restaurants.

40 44

40 GETAWAY

GHOST TOWNS

29 11

PRESIDENT’S NOTES

12

AAA DIRECTORY

50

PARTING SHOT

Find five towns with robust pasts and spooky tales to regale presentday visitors.

44 DESTINATION

CRUISE FRANCE Art, food and history converge in the cities and on the rivers in the Burgundy region.

AAA | Via

7

THE AAA MAGAZINE

PUBLISHED BY OREGON MEDIA, LLC 974 NW Riverside Blvd., Bend, Oregon 97703 oregonmedia.com PUBLISHERS Heather Huston Johnson Ross Johnson EDITORIAL Editor in Chief Cheryl Parton Associate Editor Heidi Hausler Staff Writers Siena Dorman, Chloe Green Copy Editors Lee Lewis Husk, Stephanie Boyle Mays DESIGN Creative Director Kelly Alexander Senior Graphic Designers Cali Clement, Jeremiah Crisp Graphic Designer Libby Marsden Print Coordinator Clarke Fine

©2024, Harry and David, LLC, Medford, OR, DBA Harry & David.

COUNTRY VILLAGE STORE

Stop by our flagship store for gourmet food, sweets, fine wine, and more.

OPEN DAILY 1314 Center Drive, Medford, Oregon 97501 541-864-2278 • HarryandDavid.com

90 Years and Still Sharing

PRINTS 4/4

C M EVENT ---

DELIVERY

Subscription rate: AAA primary members, $2 (included in dues).

Change of address: Allow four weeks advance notice. Call (888) 422-2503 or email the Membership Department at membership@AAAoregon.com.

DESCRIPTION

SIGN CODE

DETAIL

ROUND

ROUND DATE

AAA AD

AD

3.375 x 4.625

CRF

3/28/24

Via (ISSN 2473-5183) is published bimonthly by Oregon Media, LLC, 70 SW Century Dr. STE 100, Bend, OR 97702. Periodicals Postage: Paid at Bend, OR, and at additional mailing offices.

Postmaster: Send address changes to VIA, Membership Records, 600 SW Market St., Portland, OR 97201.

Proudly printed in Oregon.

SEPTEMBER + OCTOBER 2024

DISCOVER ARTISAN CHEESEMAKERS LUMBERJACK WEEKEND AAA DEALS & DISCOUNTS

THE AAA MAGAZINE

Birdwatching

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Damian Fagan, Kailey Fisicaro, Dan Shryock, Alex Pulaski

Contact advertising: sales@oregonmedia.com

September + October 2024

472,423 COPIES

SALES & MARKETING Senior Account Executive Susan Crow Senior Account Executive Ronnie Harrelson Account Executives Bootsie Boddington, Allie Field Sales & Mktg. Coordinator Gretchen Sortor Director of Operations Heather Renee Wong Circulation Manager Amara Spittler

Contact editorial: viaeditorial@oregonmedia.com

8

Contents copyrighted ©2024 by AAA Oregon/Idaho. No part of Via may be reprinted without written permission.

NATURE’S FEATHERED FINERY

FRENCH CONNECTION

CRUISE BURGUNDY AND PROVENCE

VISIT JACKSONVILLE, OREGON GHOST TOWN HISTORY

1

January + February 2022

ON THE COVER A Lazuli bunting perched on a branch at the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge.

Photo by Dan Streiffert

GO WITH THE FLOW OF TRAFFIC,

OR LACK THEREOF.

Tualatin River Water Trail

Welcome to Tualatin Valley, just west of downtown Portland. Experience 727 square miles full of pristine wetlands, wildlife refuges, and lush forests. Bike, hike, paddle and more.

Your adventure starts at

TUALATINVALLEY.ORG

Explore More etvor.com/ovso

Hit The Road With Best Western® Hotels & Resorts Members save with the AAA rate, plus earn bonus points and elite member status when joining the AAA PreferredSM Best Western Rewards® program.

AAA.com/bestwestern

Restrictions apply. Visit bestwestern.com/AAA for program terms and conditions. *Amenities and extras may be available only in North America. Each BWH℠ Hotels property is independently owned and operated. AAA and the AAA marks are service marks or registered service marks of the American Automobile Association. Best Western and the Best Western marks are service marks or registered service marks of Best Western International, Inc. ©2024 Best Western International, Inc. All rights reserved.

CC301.3006.24 AAA Oregon-Idaho Publication.indd 1

2/27/24 3:06 PM

NO HASSLE CAR BUYING!

AAA CAR B U Y I N G S E RV I C E

Car Buying Service

• Locate new and used vehicles • Receive multiple, competing bids on your trade-in • Financing options available • Arrange for delivery at your local Oregon AAA Service Center

Contact one of our experienced AAA Car Buying Service professionals.

877-503-4222 | AAA.COM/CARBUYINGSERVICE

AT THE SPEED

OF CHANGE

The return of fall colors is a nice reminder that change can be a good thing. Our constant focus is providing exceptional member service in an ever-changing world.

We recently adopted a new emergency road service dispatch system. This exciting technology uses predictive analytics so we can enhance our ability to provide service to our members at the roadside. We are always striving to provide better support to our members when and where they need us.

More of our members are now driving electric vehicles. But charging can be a challenge as charging infrastructure is still in the early stages of development. My wife, Missi, and I have an EV, and it’s not always easy to find reliable, accessible charging while we’re on the go. To help EV drivers stay on the go, we’re upgrading the charging stations at several of our AAA facilities with DC fast-charging capability. EV charging stations are accessible to all electric vehicle drivers through the ChargePoint app. AAA members also enjoy half-price charging fees for level II and III chargers at our locations. Visit AAA.com/charge for more information.

Of course, safety is always a top priority. Our research arm, the AAA Foundation for Traffic Safety, works to prevent traffic deaths and injuries by conducting research into their causes and by educating the public about strategies to prevent crashes. The AAA Foundation recently studied the effects of increased speed limits on stretches of interstate highways in Oregon, Michigan and Georgia. In a phenomenon known as the “spillover effect,” researchers found dangerous clusters of crashes, or hotspots, that appeared, changed locations or intensified on surface streets adjacent to a faster freeway. Our research underscores the need to always observe the speed limit and wear your seat belt.

This time of year, millions of children wait at bus stops or walk and bike to and from school. AAA’s “School’s Open, Drive Carefully” safety message reminds drivers to slow down and watch for children in residential neighborhoods

and school zones, and to never overtake a stopped bus with flashing lights. Let’s make sure all kids going to school stay safe.

AAA and other traffic safety organizations are working to establish the third Saturday of October as “Move Over Law Day.” Every state has a law requiring drivers who approach a stationary emergency vehicle with flashing lights—including tow trucks—to slow down below the speed limit and, if possible, move over at least one lane to help protect workers at the roadside.

Member satisfaction is our highest priority. With an ongoing commitment to innovation, we’ll continue to monitor trends and raise the bar to meet and exceed ever-changing member needs. And that will never change.

What changes are coming your way, and how can we help?

Please email me at President@AAAOregonIdaho.com or write to me at 600 SW Market St., Portland, OR 97201 or 7155 W. Denton St., Boise ID 83704.

Tim Morgan, President and CEO

DIRECTORS + OFFICERS chair Steven H. Corey pendleton

Bradley J. Hart lake oswego

Mary Pat Thompson boise

vice chair Elizabeth J. Cawood eugene

Karen Hinsdale portland

Kerry Tymchuk beaverton

president Tim Morgan portland

Randolph L. Miller portland

Gina Walker lake oswego

treasurer C.E. “Win” Francis bend

Patricia C. Smullin medford AAA | Via

11

AAA DIRECTORY

FOR GENERAL INFORMATION CALL (888) 422-2503 OR VISIT AAA.COM

CONNECT WITH US

INSURANCE SERVICES AAA.com/Insurance Policyholders (866) AAA-INSURE (866-222-4678)

AAA.com

New sales (866) AAA-QUOTE (866-222-7868)

facebook.com/ AAAoregonidaho

TRAVEL SERVICES AAA.com/Travel (800) 529-3222

instagram.com/ AAAoregonidaho

SERVICE CENTERS AAA.com/Locations

info.oregon.AAA.com/ via-magazine

OREGON Beaverton 8555 SW Apple Way Bend 20350 Empire Blvd.

Clackamas 10365 SE Sunnyside Rd. Coos Bay 1705 Ocean Blvd. SE Corvallis 1836 NW Ninth St., Ste. 110

ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE (800) AAA-HELP (800-222-4357) MEMBERSHIP SERVICES (888) 422-2503

Publication Number Filing Date 24735183 07/22/2024

Issue Frequency Bi-Monthly

Annual Subscription Price $2.00

Mailing Address of Known O ce of Publication 70 SW Century Dr. Ste 100, Bend OR 97702

Number of Issues Published Annually 6

Contact Person Amara Spittler: 541-389-4383

a. Total Number of Copies (Net press run) b. Paid and/or Requested Circulation

Average No. of Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months

No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date (7/1/24)

493,316

508,050

(1) Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof copies, and exchange copies)

467146

451524

(2) Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof copies, and exchange copies)

25056

24388

(3) Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS

0

0

(4) Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS (e.g. First-Class Mail)

0

0

c. Total Paid Distribution

492202

475912

d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution (By Mail and Outside the Mail)

(1) Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541

304

306

(2) Free or Nominal In-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541

50

57

(3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS (e.g. First-Class Mail)

0

0

(4) Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail (Carriers or other means)

759

760

Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution (Sum of 15d. (1), (2), (3) and (4))

1113

1123

e. f.

Total Distribution (Sum of 15c. and 15 e.)

493316

477035

g.

Copies not Distributed

0

1

h.

Total (Sum of 15f. and g.)

493316

477036

i.

Percent Paid (15c. Divided by 15f. Times 100)

99.77%

99.76%

a.

Paid Electronic Copies

0.00%

0.00%

b.

Total Paid Print Copies (Line 15c.) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a.)

492202

475912

c.

Total Print Distribution (Line 15f.) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a.)

493316

477036

d.

Percentage Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies (16b divided by 16c x 100)

99.77%

99.76%

7/22/2024

12

September + October 2024

IDAHO Boise 7155 W. Denton St. Idaho Falls 3418 S. 25th East Meridian 2310 E. Overland Rd., Ste. 110 Nampa 16453 N. Marketplace Blvd.

Pocatello 1000 Pocatello Creek Rd., Ste. E5 Twin Falls 1239 Pole Line Rd., Ste. 315

Come get Carried Away!

Statement of Ownership, Management and Circulation Publication Title AAA of Northern California, Nevada & Utah

Eugene 983 Willagillespie Rd. Grants Pass 1563 NE F St. Hillsboro 7300 NE Butler St. Lake Oswego 6 Centerpointe Dr. Medford 1777 E. Barnett Rd. Pendleton 248 SW Dorion Ave. Portland 600 SW Market St. Roseburg 3019 NW Stewart Pkwy.

Salem 2909 Ryan Dr. SE Springfield/Gateway 939 Harlow Rd. Warrenton/North Coast 153 S. Hwy. 101

Paid for by PCLTax

Open Daily 10-4 Over 60 horse-drawn vehicles & thousands of historical artifacts. Fun for all ages!

Raymond, WA @ Hwy 101 and SR-6 nwcarriagemuseum.org • 360-942-4150

{SMART TRAVEL} NAVIGATE THE ELECTRIC VEHICLE REVOLUTION

PHOTO DYL AN VANWEELDEN

Electric vehicles (EVs) are quickly becoming a new normal on the road. Whether you’re already driving an EV or simply EV-curious, AAA has gathered resources to help you navigate this transportation transformation. Visit AAA.com/EV to discover AAA’s insider tips and insights into this growing market and plug into information on everything from buying vehicles to charging them.

AAA | Via

13

{SMART TRAVEL} SPORTS FOR LESS

Get discounted tickets to cheer on your favorite NFL teams from AAA.

SPRING CLEANING

Assess your vehicle top to bottom this April during Car Care Month.

TOUCHDOWN SAVINGS EXPANDED

TRAVEL DOCUMENTS

UPDATES TO REAL ID Don’t be caught off guard by the new air travel document requirements. As of May 7, 2025, a standard driver’s license won’t be sufficient to pass through airport security.

Under the REAL ID Act, United States travelers 18 years and older will need a REAL ID (or passport) to board domestic flights and enter certain federal facilities.

This new federal mandate aims to improve the security standards for state-issued IDs. To make sure that your vacation plans won’t be affected, get ready for the switch by visiting dhs.gov/real-id. Select your state or territory to learn how to get your REAL ID from your local driver’s licensing agency.

14

September + October 2024

ENTERTAINMENT OPTIONS Reimagining your options for home entertainment, DIRECTV now offers a versatile mix of satellite and internet-based TV options. This approach provides an array of content, including the best of sports, news and an extensive on-demand movie and show library, all tailored to your personal viewing preferences. AAA members enjoy exclusive savings: $240 off a 24-month DIRECTV subscription when using an existing internet connection or up to $120 off for those utilizing a satellite dish. Both services come with a $50 reward card. To explore viewing choices and AAA savings, visit AAA.com/DIRECTV.

PHOTO TOP STOCK.ADOBE.COM/GEORGINA BURROWS

Kick off the fall season by scoring savings on National Football League tickets when you buy them from AAA. There’s nothing like the sound of a cheering crowd at live sporting events, especially when rooting for your favorite team.

Planning a football weekend starts at AAA and continues by arriving at the stadium early to gather with friends and celebrate NFL sports. Find savings at AAA.com/football.

{SMART TRAVEL}

TOOLS FOR EDUCATION Technology is essential gear for students; with AAA savings at Dell, reliable tech also comes with generous savings for this back-toschool season. AAA members can receive incredible markdowns at Dell, and an additional 5% discount is available with an exclusive AAA coupon found at AAA.com/Dell.

SECURIT Y

SMART SMOKE ALARMS

TRAVEL COMFORT

Long flights and road trips can be a pain in the neck. That’s why the Talus Easy-to-Carry Memory Foam Pillow is an ideal accessory for the comfort-conscious adventurer. This pillow offers stable head and neck support without the bulk of traditional travel pillows. Its roll-up design makes compact toting simple. The Talus Easy-to-Carry Memory Foam Pillow can be found at your local AAA Service Center. For a location near you, go to AAA.com/locations.

PEACE OF MIND

INSURANCE PROTECTION FOR LIFE Life certainly throws curveballs, but you can always take steps to prepare for the unexpected. Life insurance offers protection at any life stage. September’s Life Insurance Awareness Month reminds us that it’s never too early (or too late) to consider how life insurance can protect your family’s future.

For an up-and-comer, youth and health may result in affordable rates, making it an ideal time to arrange coverage. As families grow, life insurance equips a safety net, potentially covering mortgages, debts and even college savings if the unexpected occurs. Empty-nesters can also benefit from planning by ensuring their final expenses are covered and their loved ones are financially secure. Explore your options and find peace of mind at AAA.com/life.

Smart smoke and smart carbon monoxide detectors offer new solutions for home safety by connecting to your home security system for round-the-clock protection. Even when you’re away, they monitor your home, sending real-time alerts to a phone and contacting emergency services if needed. Vigilance is essential–one in three home fire deaths is linked to nonfunctioning detectors. Remember: While smart detectors are more reliable, all detectors should be replaced every 7-10 years. Learn more about keeping your home secure at AAA.com/smarthome.

AAA | Via

15

{SMART TRAVEL}

Autumn has arrived, and with it comes wet weather and fallen leaves. Follow these four simple assessments to ensure safe, smooth travels: 1. Tire Tread Quarter Test Check your tire tread using the quarter test. Insert a quarter into your tread grooves, with George Washington’s head upside down. If you can see the top of Washington’s head, it’s time for new tires.

Proper tread depth is essential for maintaining traction on wet roads this fall.

2. Tire Pressure Tread is not the only thing you need to look after when it comes to tire safety. Check tire pressure monthly and before any road trip adventures. Confirm that tires are inflated to the manufacturer’s recommended pressure.

16

September + October 2024

Having proper inflation improves handling and fuel efficiency, something that is particularly important in fall conditions. TIP: Remember to check your spare tire’s pressure as well.

3. Windshield Wipers It’s no secret that visibility is important for safe driving. With last season’s summer heat, your rubber wiper blades may have warped. If wiper blades leave streaks after spraying windshield cleaning fluid, replace them for proper visibility.

4. Routine Maintenance Calendar Stay on top of routine maintenance and follow your car manufacturer’s recommended service intervals; these intervals are designed to keep your vehicle in its best shape and offer you peace of mind while navigating the season’s changing road conditions. For trustworthy service that delivers member discounts, locate AAA-approved auto repair shops in your community at AAA.com/AAR.

PHOTO ISTOCK.COM/SHUTTER2U

PREPARE YOUR CAR FOR FALL

{SMART TRAVEL}

AAA members enjoy discounts and travel planning support on domestic and international travel, from cruise vacations to European tours and family destination travel packages. See AAA.com/viatravel.

AAA

IRELAND BY RAIL

Discover the Emerald Isle by train Board the Irish railway for a journey through Ireland’s coastal gems, from charming seaside villages to the majestic Cliffs of Moher and Ring of Kerry’s cinematic peaks. This 10-day tour reveals Irish oases often missed by visitors. Wander Dublin’s celebrated streets, Cork’s famed castles, Killarney’s glorious landscapes and Galway’s buoyant culture. From spry city centers to tranquil countryside, visitors uncover authentic encounters at every stop. Discover Ireland’s heart with premier sightseeing tours led by expert guides and immerse yourself in a countrywide adventure on the Emerald Isle. From $1,399 per person.

TRAVEL DEALS

Cruise French Polynesia’s islands

For an authentic Italian getaway, consider villa stays from April through October 2025 to find a balance of tranquil retreat and immersion in Italy’s enchanting landscapes. These family-run sanctuaries provide a taste of local life in offthe-beaten-path locations.

Speak with villa hosts to uncover hidden gems and the rich histories of vineyards and colorful terrains. Find la dolce vita in the picturesque Italian countryside. With a three-night minimum stay, experience Italy’s charm the way locals do. Villa rates vary.

Cruise on a Tahitian Legends voyage in French Polynesia, from Papeete’s vibrant capital to Raiatea. Sail to Moorea to see its majestic mountains and white sands, then travel to Nuku Hiva’s black-sand beaches.

Find Fakarava’s wildlife-rich coral atoll before basking on Bora Bora’s shores, canoeing and swimming with manta rays.

This 10-day journey balances water adventures with serene experiences, from waterfall hikes to trips to Fakarava’s heritage villages and Rangiroa’s tranquil beaches. Your South Pacific voyage concludes where it began, in Papeete.

From $3,060 per person.

Explore Italy like a local

18

September + October 2024

TAHITI CRUISE

BEACHFRONT WAIKIKI

Culture, tradition and beauty

Dive into the aloha spirit for five days at Waikiki’s beachfront condominiums, Castle Waikiki Shore, situated on the iconic Waikiki shoreline. These premier accommodations feature panoramic Pacific Ocean views.

Be near tropical beaches and the revitalized Waikiki Beach Walk® and its local restaurants and shops. The condominiums neighbor Fort DeRussy Beach Park and Kalakaua Avenue’s shopping; an adjacent beach park offers tennis courts and jogging tracks. Find paradise out the front door of your Hawaiian home away from home.

From $3,450 per person.

Take an enchanting 11-day journey in Japan, combining rail travel, boat rides and guided tours. Venture from Kyoto’s golden pavilions to Miyajima’s floating torii to see generations of Japanese culture. Uncover Hiroshima’s history, Nara’s ancient temples and Kanazawa’s enchanting samurai heritage. Wander the traditional mountain villages of Shirakawa-go and Takayama.

Round out the trip exploring Tokyo and Mt. Fuji, plus cruising Lake Ashi. This tour showcases Japan’s unforgettable grace, architecture, history and natural beauty.

From $7,999 per person.

Views and modern amenities

HEART OF JAPAN

PHOTO ISTOCK.COM/DAWID KALISINSKI PHOTOGRAPHY

ITALIAN VILLA VACATIONS

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ONEYOU’LLBITE KNOW AND

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Savings shown over aggregated single item base price. Photos exemplary of product advertised. Limit 2. 8 free 4 oz. burgers will be sent to each shipping address that includes 77085. Standard S&H added per address. First Order $30 Promo Code is a one-time use code, valid only on the first order of $129 by new customers or customers whose last purchase was 366+ days prior to current order date. One Code per customer. Code may not be used to purchase Gift Cards, Certificates, or Wine. Code may not be applied to pending or prior purchases. Omaha Steaks reserves the right to change these terms at any time and without notice. Other restrictions may apply. While supplies last. Items may be substituted due to inventory limitations. Some products may not be available for sale in your area. All products, prices, and sales are subject to Omaha Steaks, LLC. Terms of Use: OmahaSteaks.com/terms-of-useOSI. Expires 11/30/24. | SRC0709

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Get to your Let’s Go moments.

AAA members: Make every journey special and enjoy everyday savings up to 20% off base rates with exclusive benefits. Plus, save $5 per day up to $25 off the base rate of daily, weekend and weekly rentals.* Include your AAA Discount Code (CDP# 177) and PC 211249 in your reservation.

Click: AAA.com/hertz I Call: 1-800-654-3080 Visit: Your local AAA branch

Book Today

*Save $5 per day off the base rate on daily rentals, $15 off the base rate on weekend rentals and up to $25 off the base rate on weekly rentals. Applies to pay later base rate only. Taxes, fees and options excluded. Discount will vary depending on location, date, length of rental, car class and other factors. Promotion Code 211249 and AAA CDP# 177 must be provided at time of reservation for full offer discounts. This offer is available at participating Hertz locations in the U.S., Canada and Puerto Rico. Age, driver, credit and qualifying rate restrictions for the renting location apply. Advance reservation required. Offer not valid and rate change or additional fees may apply in the event of reservation modification, early/late vehicle return or if not returning vehicle to renting location. Valid on all car classes except minivans, large SUVs and Dream cars. Offer has no cash value, and may not be used with other discounts, promotions or special rates. Offer valid for bookings and pickups through 12/31/2024. Subject to availability, blackout periods and additional restrictions. At the time of rental, present your AAA membership card for identification. © 2024 Hertz System, Inc. All rights reserved. CS 1123022

{ON THE ROAD} 75 YEARS OF IDAHO’S LUMBERJACK LEGACY

PHOTO CHRISTOPHER JONES

Orofino Lumberjack Days celebrates its 75th anniversary, bringing four fun-packed days of festivities to Orofino, Idaho, from September 12-15. Since 1947, the festival has been held to showcase the lumber industry, and celebrate the logging and farming way of life. About 4,000 people attended the Lumberjack Day. Today, the show boasts more than 30 competitive categories highlighting the skills of logging, such as chopping, sawing, and birling—the art of staying balanced on a floating and spinning log. The festival opens on September 12 at the Orofino City Park Fairgrounds, kicking off with the Midway of Fun Carnival. On the 14th, a 12-hour itinerary brings a parade, auction and horse-pull competition to town. Honoring its oldest tradition, Orofino Lumberjack Days concludes with a log show. Participants may compete or spectate at this lumberjack tradition. See orofinolumberjackdays.org.

AAA | Via

21

DISCOVER

OREGON’S BEST (kept secret) Three National Park experiences, Oregon’s finest lakes, legendary trails, the most bald eagles in the lower 48, three hundred days of blue skies. And no crowds.

Have you discovered Klamath?

{ON THE ROAD}

FOREST GROVE FESTIVAL Forest Grove, Oregon, gives summer the ultimate send-off at its 60th annual Corn Roast and Chalk Art Festival on September 21. The event takes place on Main Street, Forest Grove. Spectators can enjoy the sidewalk gallery of art at no cost.

Artists pay a registration fee of $15 and chalk is provided. Also taking place on Main Street, the Corn Roast and Harvest Festival offers food carts, vendors, games and entertainment.

See fgcchamber.org, valleyart.org.

SCENIC RIDES

STREET FAIRS

TOURS WITH JOSEPH BRANCH RAILRIDERS Find recreation and scenic views of Joseph, Oregon with a tour from Joseph Branch Railriders. From September 6-30, the Railriders will offer excursions on its railroad pedal carts Fridays-Sundays. Two routes are available: a 12-mile valley tour from Joseph to Enterprise or a shorter jaunt on the six-mile Mountain Edge route.

See jbrailriders.com.

WINE COUNTRY CELEBRATIONS Wine Country Pride celebrates inclusivity this fall, hosting two community events: Pride Street Fair in McMinnville on September 8 and Drag Extravaganza in Newburg on October 12. The Street Fair takes place in downtown McMinnville, featuring street vendors, a kid play zone and hourly musical performances on its main stage. Next, the Drag Extravaganza brings a night of glitter to the Chehalem Cultural Center in Newberg. Wine Country Pride was founded to expand LGBTQ+ representation in Willamette Valley wine country. See winecountrypride.com.

PETS ON PARADE

PHOTO BOTTOM CYNTHIA WOLF

DOGS REIGN AT MUTTZANITA A single-day dog festival, Muttzanita brings a flurry of furry friends to Manzanita, Oregon. On September 7, the 15th annual event kicks off by crowning Mutt-zanita’s new “mayor”—a year-long title held by the area’s favorite pooch.

Following the inauguration, a pet parade winds through downtown to Manzanita’s beach where a series of canine contests commence. Donations from the event go to the Animal Haven by the Sea Rescue.

See muttzanita.com.

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{ON THE ROAD} MUSIC

JAZZ IN THE FOOTHILLS The Eagle Jazz and Blues Fest returns to Eagle, Idaho, September 20-21. The festival provides a weekend of world-class music for jazz aficionados and those new to the genre. A free concert on Friday is followed by a ticketed nighttime walking tour to four downtown Eagle music venues.

On Saturday, enjoy free music at Eagle Saturday Market and catch one of two concerts at Rembrandt Dining Hall. See eaglejazz.org.

CULTURE

Three Hispanic Heritage Festivals in Oregon support local artists and business owners, and honor Hispanic culture with days of food, arts, crafts, dancing and live music.

In Madras, September 14 is Latino Fest an all-day event featuring a parade. On September 28, ¡Viva Salem! hosts an afternoon of festivities at Riverfront Park.

Tigard’s El Tigre Fest is held October 5 at Cook Family Park.

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September + October 2024

PHOTO TOP MIMI CUNNINGHAM AND FRANK SORGER | BOTTOM COURTESY CIT Y OF SALEM

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{ON THE ROAD}

Cheese, Please CELEBRATE ARTISAN CHEESES

BY VISITING ITS MAKERS

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PHOTO BY ALYSON BROWN

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1.

BRUSH CREEK CREAMERY Deary, Idaho | Mountain Maple Brie

4. BRUSH CREEK CREAMERY Deary, Idaho | Orchard Blue

2.

TMK CREAMERY + DISTILLERY Canby, Oregon | Cheddar, chipolte ranch & garlic dill curds

5. BRIAR ROSE CREAMERY Dundee, Oregon | Fata Morgana

3. TMK CREAMERY + DISTILLERY Canby, Oregon | Cheddar wedge 26

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6. BRUSH CREEK CREAMERY Deary, Idaho | Marinated Labneh

7. FACE ROCK CREAMERY Bandon, Oregon | Vampire Slayer Cheddar 8. ROGUE CREAMERY Central Point, Oregon | Rogue River Blue, Voted "World's Best Cheese" 2019 World Cheese Awards

{ON THE ROAD}

S

eptember is Oregon Cheese Month so there’s no better time thank this to discover farmstead and artisan cheeses of the region. Taking the locavore movement a step further, become a “cheesavore” by learning about a few of the approximately 250 types of cheese created in the state, and getting to know the people who make it—including makers in the growing Idaho scene. Using science and artistry, some of the more than 20 artisan cheesemakers in Oregon are accessible with tours or on-site visits.

Visit Rogue Creamery in Central Point and see where it has been making cheese by hand since 1935.

The glass viewing areas at Face Rock

Creamery in Bandon allow visitors to watch how its cheeses, including the popular Vampire Slayer garlic cheese curds, are made. At Briar Rose Creamery in Dundee, Sarah Marcus makes wheels into works of art and welcomes visitors Fridays, Saturdays and by appointment.

Sustainability is accessible at TMK Creamery + Distillery, one of the only dairy farms in the United States open to the public. Visit TMK on Friday afternoons and weekends. Find samples from aross the state on September 28 in Portland at The Wedge, a farmers market-style festival celebrating cheese and the foods that go with it. See oregoncheeseguild.com.

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{WEEKENDER}

THREE DAYS IN

Jacksonville FIND NEW RESTAURANTS, INNS AND WAYS TO EXPLORE

PHOTO MARTINA PATELL A

WRITTEN BY KAILEY FISICARO

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{ON THE ROAD} here is a feel to Southern Oregon’s city of Jacksonville, as if time has slowed down, but updates and additions make the experience a bit more shiny and bright. New options in wining, dining and accommodations shouldn't be surprising for the city that was originally a gold mining town founded in the early 1850s. Today, Jacksonville is a delightful destination for those seeking a relaxing stay with ample boutique hotels and an arts and culture scene with plenty of history to explore.

It’s an easy long weekend trip for those driving in or flying—the airport in Medford is a 15-minute drive. A visit to Jacksonville in the fall may include a variety of warm afternoons, cool nights and the quintessential charm of a historic Oregon town.

Day One

Day Two

Start the morning at GoodBean Jacksonville or Pony Espresso for coffee, or McCully House Inn and Bakery for a sweet or savory treat. After fueling up, try a class at Reformed Pilates.

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PHOTOS MARTINA PATELL A

Settle in for a restful stay at one of Jacksonville's boutique hotels—five of six which have undergone renovations in the past two years, turning what was old into new options for a base from which to explore. Kubli Haus, one of the newest inns in town, offers bright and understated design, providing a mix of Jacksonville's respect for history with a contemporary twist. The Orth House at Remotion Winery, originally built in the 1880s, now offers guests three suites with private decks and Magnolia Hotel offers renovated common spaces and room configurations for individuals or large groups.

After unpacking, step downtown to explore locally owned shops including Calathea Home & Gift, Carefree Buffalo, Happy Alpaca Toys and Supply or Rebel Heart Books.

For those inclined to wine, a stop at Anchor Valley Wine Bar and Tasting Room is a low-key kickoff to an extended weekend. Serving its own label made with locally sourced grapes, the wine bar is located in one of the many buildings downtown full of historic character with arched transom windows and a relaxed atmosphere. The modernized remodel of Wine Lounge at Jacksonville is another example of the way new energy has invigorated a long-time gathering place in the city.

To end the first evening, head to dinner at the new Restaurant at Jacksonville Inn, a two-minute walk from Anchor Valley’s tasting room, where menu items such as crispy duck and wild mushroom risotto tempt the taste buds.

{WEEKENDER}

For those looking to skip the sweat, a host of spas provide opportunities for rest and whole body treatments. Some of Radiant Day Spa’s packages last three hours, taking you right into midday.

ABOVE Kubli Haus, one of Jacksonville's newest inns.

In the afternoon, catch the Jacksonville Wine Trolley, a safe and entertaining way to tour four downtown tasting rooms and seven wineries just outside of town.

Operating Friday-Sunday from May through October, the trolley is a historical Jacksonville touch that takes you back in time. The Haunted History Walking Tour led by costumed guides and held the second Friday of each month through September, with a few bonus dates offered in October. A new Holiday Trolley Lights Tour

will provides a glimpse of the town's Victorian spirit throughout December.

OPPOSITE, TOP Shop, then dine at Cowhorn Kitchen and Wine.

OPPOSITE, BOTTOM Explore wineries on the Jacksonville Wine Trolley.

After exercising, exploring or refreshing, dinner at the new Cowhorn Kitchen and Wine is an elegant way to end a day. Serving seasonally inspired dishes with ingredients sourced at its nearby farm, the restaurant offers starters such as fried chickpeas and pickles, salads sprinkled with charred strawberries, and mains including a New York steak or capellini pasta with duck sausage.

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{ON THE ROAD}

Day Three

Even with so much packed into days one and two, there is still much more to discover in Jacksonville. After a leisurely start to the day, the new Rogue Ales’ Patio at the Schoolhouse offers a shady spot to take in a brew and savor lunch from Black Barn Farm Kitchen. Take a hike and get moving with plenty of options—trails abound in between the Jacksonville Woodland Trails as well as Forest Park— offering a range of sights and treks for every hiking level.

Post-hike, relax and get creative at Miner's Bazaar downtown, a “project cafe” where you can caffeinate on coffee and tea or imbibe an Oregon beer, cider or wine while you create art. This inventive cafe offers a menu of projects to choose from, so you can embroider, paint, make prints and more. It’s just the right way to transition to an afternoon of visiting the art galleries in town, including Art Presence Art Center, with monthly exhibitions of member and guest artists.

The city is home to the Britt Festival Pavilion, a naturally formed amphitheater set among trees and home of The Britt Music & Arts Festival, which takes place from June through October. Attend a twilight concert in a favorite genre to cap off a dreamy few days in Jacksonville.

Miner's Bazaar is one of many music venues.

PHOTO BOTTOM COURTESY THE BRITT MUSIC ARTS FESTIVAL, ORCHESTRA WITH BRUCE CAMPBELL, JAY NEWMAN

Live music takes the stage at Britt Festival Pavilion.

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Birdwatching

TAKES FLIGHT

Tips and locations for enjoying the colorful sport of birdwatching

Short-eared owl in flight at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge

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PHOTO L ANE WINTERMUTE, FRIENDS OF MALHEUR NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

WRITTEN BY DAMIAN FAGAN

Kootenai National Wildlife Refuge

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f you are new to birdwatching, you are in for a real tweet. Birding is an entertaining and fascinating year-round activity that involves observing birds in various areas whether a backyard, a nearby park or a state or federal wildlife refuge. Birds ignite interest with colorful patterns, migration feats, aerial acrobatics and sweet songs. Interest in birding is shared by more than 96 million Americans who, according to the 2022 Survey of Fishing, Hunting, and WildlifeAssociated Recreation conducted by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, engaged in birdwatching at or near their homes and by 42 million people who traveled to observe wild birds.

PHOTO VISIT IDAHO

GETTING STARTED

To start birding, a good set of binoculars (“bins” in birderspeak) will aid in viewing these avian creatures, and a field guide, such as David Sibley’s The Sibley Guide to Birds of Western North America, will help with identification.

“During my 50 years of being an outdoor writer, I have seen birdwatching grow from an eccentric activity of a few to a major outdoors recreation,” said Pete

Zimowsky, outdoor writer for the Idaho Press and longtime outdoor editor for the Idaho Statesman.

Another tip for novice birders is to join a local birding group for a field trip. “Going on a birding trip allows you to experience the incredible diversity of birds away from home—and oftentimes, these trips offer other kinds of wildlife watching, natural history and cultural experiences leaving you with a new appreciation of a place,” said Tara Lemezis, Bird Alliance of Oregon’s assistant director of adult learning and engagement. Birders are usually more than willing to take newbies under their wing and help them learn how to identify birds.

If you enjoy making lists, you may have birding DNA. Many birders keep lists, ones for yard, county or state birds spotted, along with lifelong inventories and even lists of birds seen while on walks. The free eBird app, a Cornell Lab of Ornithology project, is a way to record your bird sightings and search for hotspots. The lab also developed the free Merlin Bird ID app, which uses AI technology to guide observers step by step, based on their region to answer the question, “What’s that bird?” Once ready to explore, visit one or more of these prime locations throughout the West.

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Watch birds at the Upper Klamath Basin

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Birding Idaho

CAMAS NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

The Camas National Wildlife Refuge, located 12 miles north of Sage Junction along Interstate 15, consists of ponds, marshes, sagebrush uplands, meadows and farm fields within the approximately 11,000-acre refuge. More than 300 species of birds have been recorded since the the refuge was established in 1937. Depending on how much time you have, take a short (3.5-mile) or longer (7-mile) auto tour through the refuge to view waterfowl, eagles and songbirds.

KOOTENAI NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

The Peregrine Fund’s World Center for Birds of Prey

In the northern panhandle, the Kootenai National Wildlife Refuge, located six miles east of Bonners Ferry, is nestled in a lush valley surrounded by the Selkirk, Cabinet and Purcell mountains. A great birding location for waterfowl and songbirds, more than 220 species of birds have been recorded within the 2,774-acre refuge. A 4.5-mile-long auto tour loops around the refuge. Besides birds, there are moose, bear, elk and river otters in the refuge.

Bonus Spot: The Peregrine Fund’s World Center for Birds of Prey in Boise offers educational programs and numerous live raptors to view.

Birding Oregon

PHOTO TOP VISIT IDAHO | PHOTO BOTTOM LINDA KLEIN OPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF DISCOVER KL AMATH/L ARRY TURNER

MALHEUR NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

American avocet, Malheur National Wildlife Refuge

In southeastern Oregon, the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, found 30 miles south of Burns, encompasses more than 187,000 acres and was designated as an Important Bird Area in Oregon. Established in 1908 by President Theodore Roosevelt, the refuge protects this habitat for thousands of migratory and nesting birds along the Pacific Flyway.

Sandhill cranes, American white pelicans, burrowing owls and bobolinks, a bird that migrates from South America to breed in the northern U.S. and southern Canada, may be viewed from the 42-mile-long self-guided auto tour (known as the Central Patrol Road), which traverses lengthwise through the preserve. Near the refuge’s southern end is the historic Frenchglen Hotel run by an Oregon State Parks concessionaire, which serves family-style meals, has overnight accommodations and good birding in the yard.

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Common Mures

Bird lovers flock to Lincoln City, Oregon where free guided tours are given by local experts.

OREGON COAST

The entire Oregon Coast—from Astoria to Brookings–is a highly recommended birding area. Numerous publicaccessible beaches and headlands offer ocean views for common murres, cormorants, tufted puffins and brown pelicans. Fort Stevens State Park near Astoria, the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area in Newport and Harris Beach State Park in Brookings are some of the many spots to bird (and whale watch) along the coast.

Bonus Spot: The Oregon Coast Aquarium in Newport has an aviary to view seabirds up close.

A NOTE OF CAUTION: Though birding is a mildmannered activity, it can lead to behaviors such as “twitching” (chasing rarities) or calling in sick because of a migration fallout. You might start talking about “LBJs” (Little Brown Jobs, often some type of sparrow), “phishing” (subtle sound to draw birds out of hiding), and “lifers” (new birds added to your life list). Consider yourself warned and happy birding.

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RESOURCES

Founded in 1981, nonprofit Oregon Wildlife Foundation supports the conservation of Oregon’s fish, wildlife and natural resources. See myowf.org.

The Idaho Fish and Game Department’s Idaho Birding Trail guide, available online or in print, is a resource for birding sites and viewing opportunities. See idfg.idaho.gov/ibt.

Visit the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife website or Travel Oregon for downloads or printed guides to the best birding in the state. See dfw.state.or.us or traveloregon.com.

Damian Fagan is a freelance writer who covers hiking, trails and travel. He has published several wildflower field guides and enjoys exploring the wilds of the West with his wife, Raven.

PLAN A TRIP

Get the AAA Mobile App for on-the-go access to trip planning, maps, discounts, and roadside assistance: AAA.com/mobile.

PHOT TOP LEFT SCOTT CARPENTER | RIGHT NATHAN HOLSTEDT

Tufted Puffin at The Oregon Coast Aquarium

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Ghost Towns OF OREGON AND IDAHO

Experience the lore, history and intrigue of days gone by

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ock Point was once a small yet thriving community along Southern Oregon’s Rogue River. It had a stagecoach stop, a hotel, a general store and a ferry service in the late 1800s.

But when railroad tracks were routed through nearby Gold Hill, Rock Point faded away.

Many towns across Oregon and Idaho experienced similar fates, but although Rock Point is gone, the

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ghost of resident Hattie Haymond remains. Skeptical?

Ask the employees at Del Rio Vineyards and Winery where the old hotel building is now a wine-tasting room.

They say Hattie still appears in and around the hotel her husband once owned.

Ghost towns are places that once flourished but are nearly deserted. Here are five more towns that have all but vanished, yet like Rock Point, still have stories to tell.

PHOTO CHRISTIAN HEEB

WRITTEN BY DAN SHRYOCK

BRIDAL VEIL, OREGON

Bridal Veil Falls is a landmark along the Historic Columbia River Highway on the Oregon side of the Columbia Gorge. About a half mile away is Bridal Veil, an active timber town in the late 1800s. The town is gone, but the post office remains active.

“There is very little if anything left of the original town,” said postal clerk Damien Chakwin from his desk inside a converted, century-old tool building that now serves as office space for the popular zip code among brides, 97010. The priority mail here is hand-canceled wedding invitations with a Bridal Veil postmark.

While no official records exist, Chakwin estimates as many as 4,000 envelopes pass through the post office each year.

TOP Bridal Veil Post Office MIDDLE Pondosa RIGHT BOTTOM Hotel Shaniko in its early years

PONDOSA, OREGON

Pondosa, about 23 miles northeast of Baker City on Highway 203, is the unofficial “Geographic Center of the 50 United States.” At least, that’s what a sign there lauds (and calculations are based on the inclusion of Alaska and Hawaii, for those doing the math).

Pondosa was a small timber town of 500 people for nearly 35 years until the timber business ceased in the late 1950s.

Fire swept through the town a short time later, burning everything to the ground except a 15-room boarding house.

That building still stands and serves as a small general store.

It is home to town owners Bob Bennett, daughter Lori Brock and their family. Visit for a cold drink and ice cream and a snapshot of the town that at one time was going to be named Centerville.

PHOTO TOP: GARY HALVORSON, OREGON STATE ARCHIVES| MIDDLE: IAN SANE/FLICKR

SHANIKO, OREGON

Highway 97 makes a sharp turn north about 80 miles north of Bend in Central Oregon. This was the wool shipping capital of the world more than 100 years ago. While it’s now a ghost town, local residents hang onto Shaniko’s history.

The Columbia Southern Railway tracks connected to Shaniko in the late 1800s. By 1901, more than 4 million pounds of fleece were loaded into train cars each year and shipped away.

Business was so good that the railroad company constructed the Shaniko Hotel in 1901.

Ten years later, a new rail line overlooked Shaniko. Passenger service declined and eventually ceased in the 1930s. The Oregon Centennial Commission designated Shaniko a ghost town in 1959, and the last train through Shaniko left the station in 1966.

The Shaniko Hotel, restored with 18 rooms in 2023, welcomes guests again. A cafe, gift shop, and an even smaller record shop, Dead Format Records, occupy space in the same block of E Street. Weathered buildings steps away testify to the community’s history.

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LEFT Bayhorse, Idaho BELOW Silver City, Idaho

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SILVER CITY, IDAHO

As an epicenter of silver mining 150 years ago, Silver City once had all the trappings of a boom town—75 businesses, 300 homes, eight saloons, two hotels and Idaho’s first daily newspaper, the Owyhee Daily Avalanche.

Originally constructed in Ruby City, 190 miles to the east, the Idaho Hotel was taken apart and its north wing reconstructed in Silver City in 1867 to accommodate the growth. Four years later, a new saloon wing was added, followed by a billiard room and eventually a cafe. When mining operations stopped decades later, Silver City faded. The Idaho Hotel closed in 1942 and remained so for 30 years.

The hotel is now a hub of activity once again, according to owner Jerri Nelson, who operates the hotel with 13 rooms and a busy restaurant from Memorial Day weekend to mid-October or the first freeze, whichever comes first. “You wouldn’t believe it’s a ghost town on a Saturday or Sunday,” Nelson said.

Dan Shryock is a Salem-based journalist working with magazines and websites in California and the Pacific Northwest. His primary focus is cycle tourism, and his latest book on Oregon's scenic bikeways was published in May.

PHOTO LEFT AL AMY.COM/STEPHEN SAKS | RIGHT KAREN PORTIN

BAYHORSE, IDAHO

Silver ran deep in Idaho’s veins in the 1800s, and ghost towns across the state remain as testaments to local mining history. A good example is the ghost town of Bayhorse, part of the Land of Yankee Fork State Park.

Four mines produced silver and lead in this area, leading at least 300 people to live in Bayhorse by 1882. It was profitable; more than $10 million in minerals had been extracted by 1898–more than $300 million in today’s dollars. But production stopped in 1925, and by the mid20th century, Bayhorse had faded.

Its past comes back to life at the Land of the Yankee Fork State Park interpretive center north of Bayhorse, near the town of Challis. Exhibits, artifacts, a short movie and a gold panning station help illustrate the mining life.

“We’re an homage to central Idaho’s mining history, a look at how the West was settled, and the struggles those people went through,” Park Ranger Joe Fihe said.

“We show how hard the life was extracting silver and lead from the mountains.”

In Bayhorse, a Wells Fargo bank, jail and doctor’s office still exist on site. Take a ranger-led tour or follow a self-guiding map at your own speed to see the buildings from times gone by.

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Cruising France JOURNEY THROUGH HISTORY IN BURGUNDY AND PROVENCE WRITTEN BY ALEX PULASKI

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PHOTO ISTOCK.COM/OLEG_P

airy-tale castles date to medieval times, hinting at armored knights and fierce feuds.

Roman temples and amphitheaters remain remarkably intact, vestiges of invasions and settlements from 2,000 years ago.

All this, and much more, revealed itself during a weeklong river cruise through Burgundy and Provence. Accessing the region from its waterways marries rich history with the modern indulgences of shopping, fine dining and steady currents of flowing wine.

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TRACING VINCENT VAN GOGH’S LIFE

The vessel, the AmaCello, navigates the Rhône and Saône rivers at a leisurely pace, but time races along and memories of the passing cities swirl like the blurred canvas of an impressionist painter.

As it happens, Vincent Van Gogh’s work and troubled history are intertwined with southern France.

He was born and reared in the Netherlands but in 1888 moved to Arles, France. It was there that our cruise began.

My wife, Mica, and I were captivated by picturesque Arles.

Strolling on cobblestoned streets past teahouses and boutiques, we stopped to appreciate permanent easels showing copies of the artist’s

works on the sites that inspired them. Our favorite—though a bit hard to find—stands in the enchanting marigold-dotted courtyard known as Espace Van Gogh, the subject of his painting “Garden of the Hospital in Arles.”

Incongruously, in the middle of this very French city, a wellpreserved first-century Roman amphitheater styled after Rome’s Colosseum, arises. Seeing it provided an introduction to the Roman ruins we were to see during later stops. Our senses were met with the buttery smell of pastries issuing from bakery storefronts, the colorful sight of exotic spices at a street market and the familiar sound of church bells marking the hours.

We borrowed bikes from the ship and pedaled on our own to the nearby town of Fontvieille, where it was market day with vendors displaying wares ranging from seafood on ice to sausage cooking in pans and baskets of fresh produce.

Here, we learned that those dim memories of high school French might actually be useful. Unlike the big cities of Lyon and Avignon that we would explore later, English speakers proved to be a bit scarce in the small towns. While buying lavender from one vendor and olives from another, a mélange of my meager French and hand signals on both sides closed the deal with smiles.

“Et voilà!” the olive vendor announced, happily concluding our transaction: There you go.

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A bus excursion from quaint Arles (population 52,000) to busy Avignon, with its 481,000 inhabitants, turned out to be a jarring transition. Like Lyon (population 1.8 million) to the north, Avignon is as packed with history as it is with modern shops. But it’s also prone to crowds, and we soon concluded that for us the smaller towns—several we had never heard of previously—would win our hearts.

For example, guide Mylène Paris shepherded us on a hike through the climbing 14th-century streets of tiny Viviers, which has seen its population dwindle to fewer than 4,000 from a height of 30,000 in medieval times.

In those days, Paris told us, animals were butchered right in the village streets. Of course, a lot was different back then.

“You’d be expected to eat two pounds of bread in a day,” she said. “As far as drinking, [residents drank] as many as two to four bottles of wine daily.”

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PHOTO TOP STOCK.ADOBE.COM/BOB | BOTTOM STOCK.ADOBE.COM/ELIZAVETA

HISTORY COMES TO LIFE

LEFT Sightseeing in Bordeaux, France RIGHT The Hospices de Beaune/Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune is a former charitable almshouse in Beaune, France OPPOSITE PAGE TOP View of Viviers from the town’s high point

PHOTO RIGHT STOCK.ADOBE.COM/MA JONIT

OPPOSITE PAGE BOTTOM Château de Cormatin

We didn’t come remotely close to that wine consumption on this trip, despite the temptation of gamays from Mâcon and pinot noirs from Burgundy.

But the bread proved irresistible. Every smalltown boulangerie deserved our attention, and even on Sundays and Mondays, when most shops were closed, we found bakeries willing to satisfy our cravings for a fresh baguette or apple tart.

We discovered further evidence of the Roman influence in Vienne, where an amphitheater is still used for events. In the town center, we saw couples sipping coffee next to a Roman temple dedicated to Emperor Augustus, its massive columns dominating the square.

As our river journey proceeded north from Provence into Burgundy, bus excursions transported us into the heart of wine country. We spent one morning in Beaune, a beautiful walled city that is ground zero for

Burgundy winemaking and home to a spectacular artfilled former hospital that dates to 1443.

We explored castles such as the Château de Cormatin, where the gilded walls still shine brilliantly more than 400 years after they were painted. Such fortified residences, built to repel invaders, now welcome visitors with open arms, sometimes over a glass or two of wine.

At the Château de Pierreclos, we sampled chardonnay and pinot noir in a barrel-lined limestone cave.

On another afternoon, the Count Raoul de Ternay welcomed us to the Château de Rully, where his family has resided continuously since the 12th century. From the grand salon to a billiard room and the kitchen, the count walked us through the family history and wine production, opening a bottle of chardonnay with a resounding pop.

“That,” guide Sophie Marié told us, “is the best sound ever.”

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CRUISING ON THE AMACELLO

The 140-passenger AmaCello, operated by AmaWaterways, debuted in 2008 but appears brand new, thanks to a renovation in early 2024. Guest rooms are compact, modern and elegant and most include a French balcony (essentially a sliding glass door and railing) that allows guests to enjoy unobstructed river views from rooms. The main lounge/bar and main restaurant are also sleek and luxurious, with walls of windows. You might, as we did, see a stately swan swim just outside your window during dinner.

Meals feature locally sourced ingredients and wines and often (but not always) a French cooking approach. Some favorites of mine were cauliflower soup with figs and pine nuts, braised beef short ribs in a merlot wine sauce and white asparagus with Parma ham and Hollandaise sauce. Guests can also experience a dinner at the chef’s table one time on their cruise.

The small-ship experience allows for personal service, easy movement aboard ship and ultra-fast transfers from the vessel to marinas. Tour buses often wait just steps away from the gangway.

Most days AmaCello docked overnight at one city for morning excursions, making a second stop by the afternoon. On occasion, we spent the entire afternoon 48

September + October 2024

cruising, only stopping for the fascinating passage through one of the 13 locks that made our upstream journey possible. See amawaterways.com.

Alex Pulaski is a freelance travel writer and former travel editor at The Oregonian. He writes for The Wall Street Journal, New York Times and other publications across the country.

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FALL FLOW

PHOTO SEAN BAGSHAW

Little River near Glide, Oregon

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September + October 2024

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