CONQUERING EVEREST

WORDS: SAM KESSLER

AFTER A MOUNTAIN SUMMITING PROTOTYPE IN 2019, VACHERON’S LATEST TAKE ON THE OVERSEAS IS THEIR SPORTIEST YET

Vacheron has embraced the adventuring life with the Constantin Overseas Chrono Everest (above), which, as its name suggests is in its element over seas and mountains thanks to the addition of titanium, and plenty of it

We’ve spoken plenty in the past about what exactly sports luxe means, the Genta-laced sub-genre of fine watchmaking that’s been on the up for the past five years or so. In short, it’s the nebulous midway blur between something rugged and practical and an elegant, finely finished watch, generally with the price tag of the latter.

It’s precisely because of that price tag that it’s rare to see anyone actually wearing these kinds of pieces with an emphasis on the ‘sport’. Sure, if thieves weren’t as big an issue in Mayfair you might see the occasional jogger with a Nautilus, but for the everyday collector (everyday by Patek standards, mind you) it’s out of the question.

It’s not the lightest watch in the world but compared to other Overseas – particularly the full gold versions – it’s weightless

So, what about the Vacheron Overseas? It’s one of the most enduring sports luxe designs not created by Gerald Genta and rightly so. With its signature Maltese cross bezel and classical style, it’s most comfortable on the elegant side of the equation and, like recent Piaget Polos, not something you wear when at risk of damage or death.

Unless, that is, you’re Cory Richards.

Back in 2019, the adventurer, National Geographic photographer and all-around badass summited Mount Everest. He’d done it twice before – because who hasn’t? – but this time he opted for the North-East Ridge. Any climbers out there know what that means: one of the toughest routes to the precipice, especially when you’re not using oxygen. Incredible achievement? Sure. Insane? Definitely.

Along with climbing partner Esteban “Topo” Mena, Richards brought with him another climbing companion: his custom Vacheron Constantin Overseas. The sportier, more extreme take on the formula custom-made to survive everything the world’s highest peak can throw at it. It also made for some pretty cool promos from the top, to the delight and chagrin of anyone looking for a similarly rugged vibe from the world’s oldest (continually operating) watchmaker.

As you may have already gathered from the imagery, Vacheron is finally embracing the adventuring life for themselves. Sure, it may have taken them two years but it’s not like anything else has been going on in that time that might run a little counter to the travel narrative. And honestly, it’s been worth the wait.

So, what makes this particular Overseas a more practical timepiece? Titanium, and plenty of it. Despite what looks a little like DLC across the bezel and pusher guards, the darker gunmetal colour comes from a difference in finishing. The main body of the case is satin-brushed while the darker, anthracite aspects are bead-blasted.

That slight difference makes a big visual impact and, while the contrast is a little less in-your-face in reality, it makes the most of that Maltese cross crown, underpinned by a bright stainless steel bezel ring underneath. It’s not the lightest watch in the world but compared to other Overseas – particularly the full gold versions – it’s weightless.

There are actually two versions of the Everest, a chronograph and a dual time. Both offer the same steel blue grained dial and a few flashes of orange – on

THE SPECS Overseas Dual Time Everest • 41mm titanium and steel case with 150m water resistance • 5110 DT/2 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • Limited to 150 pieces, £26,600 • Overseas Chronograph Everest • 41mm titanium and steel case with 150m water resistance

The Everest is a welcome departure from the Overseas norm of a sporty-looking luxury, but inside has all the loveliness you’d expect from a Bond Street heavyweight

Limited to 150 pieces, both editions of the Everest ooze Vacheron style, as the dual time calibre 5110 DT/2 and chronograph calibre 5200/2 have plenty of Côtes de Genève across the bridges and gold-inlaid engraving

the 24-hour hands and day/night indicator for the dual time and all three stopwatch hands for the chronograph. Of the two, the dual time’s probably the more useful on an everyday basis but the chronograph does look that bit sportier. I’m not entirely sure which I prefer, but I did find myself wearing the dual time a bit more than the chronograph.

Stylistically the Everest is a welcome departure from the Overseas norm of a sporty-looking luxury, but inside has all the Vacheron Constantin, Poincon de Geneve loveliness you’d expect from a Bond Street heavyweight. In fact, the Everest is slightly better done than the less sporty Overseas models.

Both the dual time calibre 5110 DT/2 and chronograph calibre 5200/2 have plenty of Côtes de Genève across the bridges and gold-inlaid engraving, which is all very Vacheron. The point of difference is the golden rotor, which has been engraved with the namesake mountain itself. It’s goddam lovely.

Both watches are equipped with a grey fabric strap with orange contrast stitching, come with a second chunky grey rubber number and are limited to 150 pieces – which feels like a lot for Vacheron. Still, they’re only available from Vacheron boutiques so whatever keeps collectors visiting. And I’d say this one is well worth a visit.

So, after having a prototype version of the Everest on his wrist for the last couple of years, what does the guy that inspired the new watches think about them?

“Wearing an Overseas Everest, I’m reminded of everything from my childhood and everything that brought me to this moment in time...the trials, the seemingly endless learning through trial and error. The failures balanced against the successes. I’m actually emotional when I stop and contemplate what this watch actually says...about my life and what it can mean to others who wear it. To share such an enormous piece of me condensed into something so refined and beautiful is a humbling honour beyond the words I have.”

Sure, with its new lightweight case, the Overseas Everest is that bit more practical than your average sports luxe piece, definitely more so than most other models in the collection, but it’s still not something I’d personally want to risk on a cliff face. Then again, if I were insane enough to tackle the hardest route up Everest, I should think worrying about my watch would become a secondary concern.

Either way, the Everest is a damn lovely watch, a refreshing new look for a stunning watch and, apparently, close to making a grown man cry. What more could you want?