Oracle Time - June Futurism Issue - Issue 73

WATCHES | ST YLE | CULTUR E

THE LIFESTYLE GUIDE FOR WATCH LOVERS

ISSUE .73

RADO

CAPTAIN COOK CERAMIC The Futurism Issue SUMMER STYLE | CUTTING-EDGE WATCHMAKING | COLONISING MARS

ISSUE 73

5.95

£

ORACLE TIME #73

WELCOME Editor’s letter

COVER CREDITS Photography: Tom Pettit & Fraser Vincent Watch: Rado Captain Cook

For the first time in a while the future is looking bright. After shivering on cold terraces we can finally eat indoors, things are starting to feel a little more normal out and about and, perhaps most importantly to my Vitamin D deficient complexion, summer seems to be tentatively making its warming presence felt.

Indeed, we’re already prepping for a slew of elegant garden parties in dire need of some fantastically breathable linen and the kind of colours that give you nightmares of spilt red wine. For our June style shoot on page 70 we made the most of scenic Essex and the painfully picturesque Hyland House for a selection of warm weather looks that just about avoided our recent bouts of rainfall, paired with casual watches that wouldn’t mind either way.

To ensure that your wardrobe lasts more than a season however, you might want to look at sustainability, something which our style section is rather preoccupied this issue. On page 89 you can find a few tips about what to look for when building a clothing collection with longevity, combined with an edit of sustainable essentially and future-proof pieces on page 80.

It’s not just fashion labels preoccupied with keeping their wares up to date however. On page 115 we delve into curating an audio set-up that will sound as good in 20 years as it does today.

Watchmakers too are plenty concerned with looking ahead. Some of the greatest minds in horology are constantly looking at ways to futureproof the intrinsically archaic craft of fine watchmaking, as Josh Simms finds out on page 62.

One such watchmaker is of course Rado, our cover star for this issue, specifically the latest edition of their phenomenal Captain Cook. Originally bursting onto the scene as a retro re-issue, the new ceramic-clad version brings together the Swiss brand’s diving heritage with their cutting-edge future. It’s cutting-edge tech that looks even sharper; see for yourself on page 45.

Eye-catching as the Captain Cook is though, there’s one watch in these pages that’s about as unmissable as a nuclear explosion: the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Alex Doak offers a retrospective of the iconoclastic carousel on page 52, while we get hands-on with the new, zebra-striped version on page 111. It almost goes without saying that subtlety isn’t in the Freak’s repertoire.

This being our futurism issue, we thought we’d take the time to look at the next horizon for humanity: Mars. But after doing the research, I will not be the first onto the SpaceX Starship, no matter how many times they touch back down.

Boiling blood, freezing temperatures and radiation poising don’t make for a particularly idyllic getaway.

Oh, and if all that’s not enough to terrify you, what if we told you that accurate timekeeping might end the universe? Find out how on page 38. The future’s bright now, but the far-future? That’s another matter entirely.

As ever, stay safe, stay sane and enjoy this issue.

Sam Kessler, Editor

KEEP IN TOUCH: @oracle_time | @oracle_time | facebook.com/oracleoftime | oracleoftime.com

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ORACLE TIME #73

CONTRIBUTORS WATCHES | STYLE | CULTURE EDITOR

Sam Kessler sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

Hicham Kasbi design@opulentmedia.co.uk SUB EDITOR

Dan Mobbs

Nick Carvell

Style Editor-At-Large A lifelong fan of double denim (even triple on occasion), Nick started his career as the launch Social Media Editor of mrporter. com before leaving to become Associate Style Editor of British GQ, then Editor of London men’s magazine The Jackal. Today he’s a freelance menswear and grooming writer based in Bedfordshire – as well as his most important role to date, Style Editor at Large for Oracle Time.

Alex Doak

Alex is a freelance writer and editor based out of his east London home office / yoga studio / classroom (lockdown has brought its distractions, needless to say).

Specialising in watches, you can find Alex’s timely words under mastheads as diverse as CNN, Evening Standard, GQ, Port and Mr Porter himself.

Aidy Smith

Josh Sims

is a wine and spirits personality and presenter of the Amazon Prime TV Series, The Three Drinkers. He is often found scouring the globe for his next tipple. It’s a hard life, but someone’s got to do it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram at @sypped.

is a writer and editor contributing to the likes of Esquire, Wallpaper and The Times, among others. His latest book, ‘Retro Watches’, is published

by Thames & Hudson.

danmobbs@hotmail.com JUNIOR COPYWRITER

Michael Sonsino michael.sonsino@opulentmedia.co.uk DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Michael Pepper michael@opulentmedia.co.uk SOCIAL MEDIA EXECUTIVE & VIDEOGRAPHER

Fraser Vincent fraser@opulentmedia.co.uk JUNIOR DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Kirsty Illingworth kirsty@opulentmedia.co.uk

Benedict Browne

Benedict is a London-based journalist, stylist, and brand consultant who champions British brands and artisanal menswear. He splits his time between Head of Content at the menswear and lifestyle agency Studio Graft and lending his services to magazines, both in the UK and internationally. You can follow him on Instagram at @ benedict_browne.

DIRECTOR

Mark Edwards mark@opulentmedia.co.uk MANAGING EDITOR / CO-FOUNDER

Tom Pettit tom@opulentmedia.co.uk SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER ADVERTISING

Oliver Morgan oliver.morgan@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7872 4615

Ken Kessler

is unimpressed by the 21st century and enjoys retro, if costly, boys’ toys, such as cameras, mechanical watches and fountain pens – of late, he is obsessed with Italian red wine. He has written four books on luxury hi-fi equipment and collects chronographs and film noir DVDs.

George Parker george.parker@opulentmedia.co.uk 020 7872 4616 ACCOUNT MANAGER

Themba Wirz themba@opulentmedia.co.uk 0208 057 1140 OT MAGAZINE is published monthly

by Opulent Media 020 7872 4615

Printed by Stephens & George Ltd using vegetable-based inks onto materials which have been sourced from well-managed sustainable sources

12

ORACLE TIME #73

CONTENTS

1

OT M AG A ZINE / ISSUE 73

52 — CARRY ON CARROUSEL

18 — AFICIONADO

We reveal what’s on our radar and what should be on your shopping list this month

26 — NEWS

A round-up of the latest happenings in luxury living and the best in horology

38 — DOOMSDAY CLOCKS

The hidden price of watchmaking’s ever more impressive quest for accuracy

40 — ASK THE ORACLE

Exploring the materials used in modern watchmaking

Ulysse Nardin has been freaking out for 20 years solid, with its restless merry-goround of farout micro-tech

She didn’t know it at the time, but it would go on to serve as a petri dish for nigh-on every advance in mechanical materials over the next two decades Carry on Carrousel — p52

15

ORACLE TIME #73

CONTENTS

2

70 — HERE COMES THE SUN

It’s time to make the most of British summer with our sartorial selection

80 — KNOWLEDGE IS POWER

Do your clothes make a bigger impact on the environment than your wardrobe?

89 — YOUR NEW FUTURE WARDROBE

Look good, smell good and do good this summer

103 — WATCH REVIEWS

126

Getting hands on with Christoper Ward, Longines and Ulysse Nardin

115 — FUTUREPROOF SOUND

Your music taste may change, but your sound system really doesn’t need to

126 — SEEING RED

When, how and why mankind will colonise Mars

132 — GIN PALACE 115

103

Now the industry faces a second extinction if it fails to appeal to new generations who have grown up digital natives Moving with the Times — p62

45 — RADO OF FUTURE PAST

The seminal throwback that bridges the gap between retro past and ceramic future

62 — MOVING WITH THE TIMES

How an archaic watch industry can futureproof itself

89

16

With summer looming behind that cloud, it’s time to top up your gin collection

143 — UNSUNG HERO

Billed as the world’s first 100% automatic watch this vintage is ready for a reissue

147 — IN FOCUS

Zannetti, Baltic and Stewart Dawson are all in the spotlight

155 – MICROBRAND CORNER What’s new in the world of the small-scale?

160 – MOVIE WATCH

Great Scott! There’s only one brand 80s enough for this modern icon of film

FRONT — aficionado

edited by: MICHAEL SONSINO

aficionado The coolest things in the world right now

18

FRONT — aficionado

A NEW LEGACY (MACHINE)

The MB&F Legacy Machines have some of the most outlandish and jaw dropping designs in haute horology. So, when the LM101 was launched, it was a bit of a surprise because it focused on the essentials of watchmaking (although not without MB&F’s signature flying components). Over the years, this more serious watch has garnered a growing following and now three new versions are set to grace discerning wrists. They feature larger subdials, a new flying balance wheel and new ‘NAC’ finishing.

LM101 Stainless Steel (light blue dial): CHF 49,000 + VAT (approx. £38,500 + tax) LM101 Red Gold Blue and White Gold Purple: CHF 59,000 + VAT (approx. £46,000 + tax) Find out more at mbandf.com/en

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FRONT — aficionado

20

FRONT — aficionado

A PAIR OF PRANCING PONIES

Ferrari have launched two new cars based on the 812 Superfast: the 812 Competizione and 812 Competizione A. While the Competizione was somewhat expected, as the Superfast was due an update, the unveiling of its drop-top twin came as a surprise when they were both shown off on the manufacturer’s social media.

Both Competiziones feature the same 6.5 litre, V12 engine as their predecessor, with a few alterations to improve its powerto-weight ratio and boost its overall performance, resulting in a max speed of over 210mph. ferrari.com/en-GB

21

FRONT — aficionado

COBRA RIBS

Massive luxury yachts are all well and good, but what if you want to whip around on the waves on something a bit more sprightly? Cobra Ribs is a British boatmaker specialising in smaller vessels, with the Nautique range perfect for a day out on the water and the new Patronus yacht tender. Each boat is custom made with numerous options to choose from, allowing you to design the perfect rib for your needs – from family adventures to adrenaline thrills to full on utility. cobraribs.co.uk

22

FRONT — aficionado

GENDERLESS AND FABULOUS

In the fashion industry there has been a trend towards unisex and genderless designs, something which has been embraced by Khoeo’s Riley Studio. The studio uses neutral tones that appeal to everyone regardless of gender, such as greys, navy blues and a lovely sand colour. You can see here their Organic Cotton Workwear Jacket in sand, with its boxy cut that looks great alongside other gender-neutral styles like denim jeans. Highly practical and highly stylish.

Cotton Jacket, £295 from riley.studio

23

FRONT — aficionado

BACK ON TRACK

The motorsport season is well and truly underway now albeit behind closed doors, but soon crowds will be filling the stands again.

Motorsport Tickets is offering luxury, VIP packages to help you get back to spectating the sport you love in confidence. Their Belgian Grand Prix Road Trip Package includes a scenic drive through northern France and Belgium, as well as camping accommodation for a weekend of top F1 action.

Other packages include a VIP McLaren F1 experience.

Belgium Package, £380pp from motorsporttickets. com/en-gb/f1/belgium/ tickets

JETTING AROUND

With travel in 2021 starting to look possible, one of the most secure ways to get around is in a private jet. Sentinel Aviation will help you avoid crowded airports with a more personal flying experience, captained by Roland Dangerfield, a former British Army officer and experienced pilot. They’re committed to a COVID-safe flying experience both within the UK and internationally once that becomes a possibility. They offer direct flights to thousands of locations that fit around your schedule. sentinel-aviation.com

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FRONT — aficionado

INFINITE PLAYTIME

Urbanista is a Swedish audio brand that has developed a pair of wireless headphones with a practically infinite playtime. The Los Angeles headphones integrate Powerfoyle advanced green technology into the headband, allowing them to be charged with solar power, both indoors and outside.

One hour in the sun results in three hours of playtime, which changes to two hours in cloudy conditions, so you’ll never be without your tunes.

On top of that, they’re noise cancelling for great audio quality. £169, for more information visit urbanista.com/uk

SILENT DISTILLERY CHAPTER 2

Midleton has used the same waters from the Dungourney river in its premium Irish whiskey for nearly 200 years, including the new chapter of the Midleton Very Rare Silent Distillery Collection.

The 46-year liquid is one of the oldest Irish whiskies in existence, passing through bourbon, sherry and port casks on its journey before finally maturing in a third-fill bourbon cask.

It has a delicate fruity taste accompanied by gentle spices like anise and ginger, matched by the fruity scent on the nose, before finishing with an oak flavour. £36,000, find out more at www.midletonveryrare.com

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EDITED BY SAM KESSLER

WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE LUXURY WORLD

NEWS

CHRISTABEL’S LAUNCH AVANT GARDE MEMBER’S CLUB Christabel’s is almost impossible to describe accurately – it’s part social club, part art installation, part immersive theatre experience and part music festival. It’s launching as an Avant Garde event taking place in Fulham Town Hall for three weeks at the end of May and early June, where people are invited to join an alternative to London’s affluent private member’s clubs and engage in music, poetry, art and drinking, set in a prohibition era style venue with plenty of rock and roll attitude. It’s the ideal way to loosen up post-lockdown and get back into the swing of London nightlife.

More information at christabels.uk

It’s the ideal way to loosen up postlockdown

SIR MATTHEW BOURNE’S THE MIDNIGHT BELL Sir Matthew Bourne and New Adventures have announced their latest theatre project, a new ballet called The Midnight Bell which will open later this year in September – it’s the first time Bourne and New Adventures have worked together since their landmark Cinderella in 2019. The theme of the ballet is the exploration of London’s underbelly, set in a 1930s Soho pub, recounting the hopes, frustrations and betrayals of a lonely-hearts club. With Bourne at the helm, it’s sure to be a visual feast and a storytelling masterclass, albeit a departure from his usual muses of fairy tales and horror stories like Sleeping Beauty and Edward Scissorhands.

You can book now at new-adventures.net/the-midnightbell#overview

26

FRONT — world news

JEAN ROUSSEAU RELEASE ATLANTIS STRAP These days, most watches are water resistant to some degree even if it’s only 30 metre washing up bowl protection. But many timepieces are capable of 100m depths or more, so it makes sense for their straps to be wearable both on land and in the wet stuff. That’s exactly what the Atlantis straps from Jean Rousseau are designed to do, bringing high-end leather to the waters. The alligator straps have been developed to retain their colour, maintain their shape and have a low water-absorption so they dry quickly. They’re available in a number of styles and colour options. £270 from jean-rousseau.com

It makes sense for their straps to be wearable on land and in the wet stuff

RICHARD MILLE MCLAREN SPEEDTAIL One of the most exciting partnerships in recent years has been Richard Mille and McLaren, now in its fifth year and looking stronger than ever. In celebration they’ve

GREY GOOSE X THE CONNAUGHT BAR COCKTAIL KIT The Connaught Bar is one of the most renowned venues, famous for its artistic approach to drinks with the Jackson Pollock inspired No.11 being one of their signatures. Grey Goose has launched a limited edition cocktail kit in collaboration with the bar that allows you to make the No.11 from the comfort of your own home. Excitingly the kit comes with its own Jackson Pollock drip glasses, which is the first time they’ll be made available to the public outside of The Connaught. All proceeds from the limited edition kit will go to the Saatchi Gallery’s Learning Programme, which seeks to make contemporary art accessible for all. £100 from saatchistore.saatchigallery.com

27

announced their most ambitious timepiece to date, the RM 40-01 Automatic Tourbillon McLaren Speedtail, inspired by McLaren’s futuristic Speedtail hypercar.

Considering that this is one of McLaren’s most advanced road-going vehicles, Richard Mille has stepped up their game with three new in-house complications that they’ve never produced on an automatic tourbillon movement before: a power reserve indicator, oversize date and function selector.

The timepiece will be limited to 106 pieces to match the 106 Speedtails that have been built by McLaren.

Find out more at richardmille.com

FRONT — world news

BUGATTI CHIRON HABILLÉ PAR HERMÈS A unique Bugatti Chiron has been revealed in collaboration with luxury manufacturer and watchmaker Hermès. The hypercar was commissioned by Manny Khoshbin, who was one of the first people to order one when the car was launched in 2015, but who has waited six years to receive it so that it could be fully kitted out in sumptuous luxury by Hermès. The chalk-coloured vehicle has a matching interior with Crale leather seats, mid-console, lining and panelling. There is also plenty of colour-matched Ecru leather around the centre console and dashboard, a material developed

by Bugatti with a safety focus.

You can read more about it here, bugatti.com

Under the hood is the IWC calibre 69385, an automatic chronograph movement

IWC AND AMG LAUNCH PERFORMANCE CHRONOGRAPH IWC has long been a master of the skies with more than a few of their pilots’

chronographs becoming classics, which makes their longstanding partnership with performance car manufacturer Mercedes-AMG all the more special. Together they are giants of the skies and the ground, which is emphasised by the release of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition ‘AMG’ (Ref. IW377903), a performance orientated chrono with a titanium case and carbon fibre dial – two materials frequently used in aviation and motorsport.

Under the hood is the IWC manufactured calibre 69385, an automatic chronograph movement with a 46-hour power reserve.

Find out more at iwc.com

JAEGER-LECOULTRE OPENS DISCOVERY WORKSHOPS The Swiss watchmaking titan Jaeger-LeCoultre has begun letting people see behind the curtain at their Atelier d’Antoine with a new series of Discovery Workshops open to the public. The workshops will delve into the details of watchmaking and are suitable for watch experts and novices alike, available in English and French. Led by a master watchmaker, the three hour course combines academic and hands-on learning so you can really get to grips with watch mechanics. The first series of workshops, which began in May, are on the topic of The Sound Maker.

Book now at online-booking.jaeger-lecoultre.com

The workshops delve into the details of watchmaking and are suitable for watch experts and novices alike 28

FRONT — world news

LONDON CONCOURS 2021 SUPERCAR DAY London Concours, London’s premier car show, has released more details about Supercar Day, the final day of the three-day event taking place 8 to 10 June.

In association with the exclusive owner’s club Drivers Union, 60 of the finest supercars from the likes of Ferrari, Aston Martin and McLaren will descend upon

Leading the supercar charge is the limited edition Aston Martin V12 Vantage S Spitfire

the capital alongside 100 rare and collectible cars. Leading the supercar charge is the stunning limited edition Aston Martin V12 Vantage S Spitfire edition along with cars that starred in Bond films like the BMW Z8. The show will take place on the grounds of The Honourable Artillery Club in London. Morning/afternoon tickets are £25, full day tickets £40, from londonconcours.co.uk/tickets/

GUESS T H E WATCH

If you didn’t recognise the almost absurd shield shape of the Hamilton Ventura you’ve obviously never seen Blue Haiwaii, where The King’s favourite electric watch had a starring role alongside Elvis himself. It was futuristic at the time and even now is a modernist icon.

With our Nautical issue full steam ahead however, let’s turn our attention not to yet another diving watch but one better suited to teak decks and boat-based cocktails.

Still, while this watch may be a flashy combination of metals, it’s still a superlative timekeeper and its 100m waterproofness is plenty, provided you don’t fall in.

what is the

WATCH

?

What is the watch?

CHECK BACK NEXT ISSUE FOR THE ANSWER Any ideas? Let our editor know at sam.kessler@opulentmedia.co.uk and you may have a free subscription on your hands.

29

FRONT — introducing

READING ALL THE LATEST horological news on these lovely glossy pages is a pleasure; it’s certainly our favourite way to tell you about everything that’s going on. But if you can’t wait for the next issue, check out our Instagram to keep you up to date with the latest goings on. Just follow this handy QR Code.

Alternatively, check out our YouTube for more detailed reviews and videos. Listen to the dulcet tones of our Editor as he discusses the latest and coolest releases and everything watch industry related. We have a handy QR code for that too.

30

FRONT — introducing

NEWS

BREITLING

Super Chronomat Chronograph

INTRO DUCING

Just when we began to think that the watch world had given up the ‘bigger is better’ state of mind, Breitling has decided to take a break from the vintage elegance of their Premier Heritage Collection to show off the proportions of their new, 44mm Super Chronomat. It’s big, bold and pure 80s Breitling – especially the version with a UTC module embedded in the classic Rouleaux bracelet. It’s just the right side of kitsch and we can’t help but love it.

IN DETAIL

44mm stainless steel or red gold case with 200m water resistance • Breitling Calibre 01 automatic movement with 70hour power reserve • From £6,750, breitling.com •

GRAND SEIKO

Quartz GMT 140th Anniversary Sport Collection

IN DETAIL

40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance • In-House 9F86 quartz movement • £4,000 (red and blue), £4,800, limited to 2,021 pieces (yellow), seikoboutique.co.uk •

33

Seiko is forging on with their anniversary celebrations with yet another limited edition Grand Seiko.

This time however, they’ve leant on the sports angle with an incredibly accurate 9F86 quartz movement, the very top end of battery-powered horology.

Paired with a trio of handsome GMT colourways – red, blue and yellow – and the exquisite finishing typical of Grand Seiko, this capsule collection is yet another winner from the Japanese watchmaking giants.

FRONT — introducing

JACOB & CO.

IN DETAIL

55mm x 44mm white gold case with 30m water resistance • Jacob & Co. calibre JCAM37 manual-wind movement with 60-hour power reserve • $560,000 (approx. £400,000), unique piece, jacobandco.com

Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon Baguette Black and Orange Sapphires

•

Taste is of course subjective and we’re sure that someone out there will adore this, one of the flashiest new watches of 2021. Centred around a moving replica of a Bugatti Chiron engine and encased in 190 baguette diamonds, 109 black sapphires and 42 orange sapphires, it’s not exactly subtle. Look beyond the glitz though and there’s some serious watchmaking on display. You just might need to squint to see it.

MICHEL HERBELIN Art Déco Manual

As last issue’s style shoot showed, Art Deco is very much in vogue a century after the original roaring 20s, and the latest from Michel Herbelin taps into that hedonistic movement nicely. The slightly curved case offers a more casual take on the classic rectangular watch, with the roman numerals and rail track typical of the era. Add in a nice touch of guilloche at the dial centre with inset small seconds and you have a stylistically lovely – yet surprisingly accessible – piece from a watchmaker known for both those things.

IN DETAIL

• 41mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW510 BH Elaboré automatic movement with 58-hour power reserve • £1,680, farer.com

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FRONT — introducing

MONDAINE Evo2 Automatic

Finally, after outcry from fans and a campaign of furiously penned letters begging for a new movement, Mondaine have finally updated their railway clock-inspired Evo2 with an automatic movement. Now the beautifully clean, Bauhaus design has been equipped with the Sellita SW220-1 calibre workhorse movement, combining Swiss design and horology with Mondaine’s signature accessible price tag. An entry-level classic in the making.

IN DETAIL

35mm / 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • Sellita SW220-1 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve • £549 (strap), £599 (mesh bracelet), uk.mondaine.com •

YEMA

Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Limited Edition

Any new release from Yema is enough for us to sit up and pay attention, but a model that’s not just inspired by the French Navy but one that the Marine Nationale will be using in action? That’s something to get excited about. Loosely based on examples from the 70s, this triple timezone piece is handsome in a utilitarian, tool watch way, with a fitting navy blue dial and the specs necessary to match the Marine Nationale’s stringent standards. It’s also pretty damn big.

IN DETAIL

49mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance • Calibre YEMA3000 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • $1,049 (approx. £742), limited to 1,000 pieces, en.yema.com •

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FRONT — euros of watches

EUROS WATCHES THE

OF

1A:

SWITZERLAND

Rolex Explorer 36mm Bi-Colour

It was always going to be Rolex. Switzerland has an advantage when it comes to watchmaking, and the new, downsized Explorer is a fitting tribute to the watch with the crown’s inimitable heritage.

1C:

NETHERLANDS

Grönefeld 1941 Principia

The brothers Grönefeld are no strangers to the world of haute horology; in fact, they’ve claimed many a GPHG prize over the years, including with the beautiful salmon dialled 1941 Principia.

FOR THE FIRST TIME since the pandemic hit, teams across Europe are gearing up to represent their country at a major tournament with an eye towards international footballing glory! But we’re less interested in that than we are in watchmaking.

So, to get in on the fun, we decided to think about what the Euros of watchmaking would look like. Same format, but instead of each country being represented by a full team of skilled players, each is represented by a single timepiece, the one most symbolic of their style of watchmaking.

Unfortunately, not all countries taking part in the Euros have a watch brand to speak of. So, rather than have it out through the group stages, we’re heading straight to the knockouts! It’s the best part anyway.

2A:

1B:

ITALY

BELGIUM

Unimatic U2 F

Ressence Type 2 N

Florence’s watchmaking heyday has passed but Milan-based Unimatic’s emphasis on limited edition designs has made them a collector’s darling. Case in point, this sleek, monochrome take on the U2.

One of the coolest independent watchmakers around right now, the unique style of Ressence watches combined with their oil-filled, carousel style have made them a modern icon, even in navy.

2C:

1D:

AUSTRIA

ENGLAND

Carl Suchy & Sohne WALTZ N°1

Vertex MP45 Arctic

Not only does the name Carl Suchy & Sohne date back to the Austrian courts of the early 1800s, their signature Waltz No. 1, inspired by the modernist designs of Adolf Loos is unique Viennese.

With a clutch of homegrown brands to choose from, Vertex’s military heritage is archetypal British watchmaking. This whitedialled MP45 is handsome and has an in-built stiff upper lip.

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2B:

RUSSIA

Vostok Nuclear Submarine

Big, chunky and injected with a healthy dose of cold war machismo, Vostok’s timepieces are both ridiculous and hard not to love, even when they’re inspired by weapons of mass destruction.

2D:

SCOTLAND

anOrdain Model 1 Green Fumé

One of the most impressive exports out of Scotland other than whisky, anOrdain’s enamel dials are the kind even Swiss watchmakers get jealous of – just look at the Green Fumé Model 1. Stunning.

FRONT — euros of watches

1E:

SPAIN

Pita Barcelona Molinos Orbital ‘Classic Edition’

2E:

1F:

SLOVAKIA

GERMANY

Molnar Fabry Time Machine Regulator

Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar

2F:

FRANCE

Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Ltd Edition

Pita Barcelona is as homegrown as they come. Better yet, their watches are extraordinary. The Molinos Orbital for example uses the gears of the movement as stand-ins for the hands.

Molnar Fabry is a hidden gem of a watch studio. They take basic, stock movements and transform them into works of art such as in this superlative Time Machine Regulator unique piece.

Just as Switzerland was always going to be Rolex, Germany was invariably going to be A. Lange & Söhne. Just take a look at the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar. Enough said, really.

Yema has been going from strength to strength, and what better representative for France than the watchmaker that already represents their navy? Enter the Navygraf Marine Nationale.

RUNNER-UP 1:

RUNNER-UP 2:

RUNNER-UP 3:

RUNNER-UP 4:

GoS Norrsken

Nordgreen Philosopher

Meia Lua Callisto Halfmoon Semi-Red

Marnaut Seascape 200R

SWEDEN

More Scandinavian than a gritty crime thriller, GoS combine Damascus steel, Viking heritage and Scandinavian inspiration, which is all epitomised in the borealis green dial of The Norrsken.

DENMARK

PORTUGAL

Nordgreen win out by virtue of their pitch-perfect take on Danish and Scandinavian design paired with a socially positive outlook. The Philosopher is affordable, minimal and tactile in equal measure.

With their intriguingly coloured dials and uber-modern pilots’ watch aesthetic, Lisbon-based Meia Lua certainly stand out.

The Callisto Halfmoon adds a red racing layout to the triple calendar.

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CROATIA

Taking their unique dial embellishments from the spines of sea anemones, Marnaut is a distinctly Adriatic watch brand. The Seascape’s compressoradjacent shape makes it a a dark (sea)horse.

FRONT — euros of watches

THE

EUROS

KNOCK-OUT STAGE 1 Italy

vs

Russia

Militaristic in two very different ways, stripped-back limited editions win out against overcompensating mass production every time.

Netherlands

vs

OF

WATCHES SEMI-FINALS

Sweden

Damascus steel knives not being allowed on the playing field, the Grönefeld brothers are one step closer to adding another prize to their awards cabinet.

Scotland

vs

Belgium

Slovakia

Both rely on finishing over calibres but while the Slovakians put on a great show, it’s anOrdain that make the more lasting impression.

England

vs

vs

Germany

While they may have distinctly different personalities, these two play at very much the same level. That said, if you were offered both, who’d turn down a Lange?

1-0 to Germany.

France

Ah the age-old rivalry and this time it’s gone military. And while we would love to slip the referee a check to make it go our way, Yema’s been watchmaking up a storm that Vertex’s scant release slate can’t match.

QUARTER FINALS Germany

vs

FINAL

Scotland

While the Scots can equal the German’s enamelling, that’s about it, and the patron saints of Glashutte horology make for an unassailable opponent.

Netherlands

vs

Italy

Award-winning haute horology is a niche pursuit; sleek field watches are a crowd pleaser though and the Italians’ monochromatic swagger puts them ahead of the more serious Dutch.

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FRONT — euros of watches

KNOCK-OUT STAGE 1 Switzerland

vs

Austria

A bit of Mozart in locker room can’t stand up to the indomitable watchmaking might that is Rolex. An unlucky pairing for the Austrians.

SEMI-FINALS France

vs

Belgium

vs

Denmark

Both are cool-looking watches, but despite playing two very different watchmaking games, Ressence were always going to win.

Italy

Germany

vs

Portugal

They might be clinically disassembled by meticulous German prestige but at least Meia Lua might get a bit more noticed now.

Two military watches, two cool brands, but while both are on the rise, the French side’s is meteoric. Add in a dash of archival design and you have the winner.

Spain

vs

Croatia

With neither brand particularly well-known, the rotating cogs of Pita ran circles around the sedentary seacreatures of Marnaut.

GERMANY

QUARTER FINALS

vs

FRANCE

Belgium

vs

Switzerland

Prestige against innovation here and any other year it would be an obvious win for the Swiss. 2021 though hasn’t been their strongest year. Down to penalties, the Belgians upset the natural order.

Britain’s two footballing mortal enemies in the final?

Painful but true. You know, within the bounds of deep, deep subjectivity. Either way, Yema need to be playing a hell of a lot longer to beat Lange and the result isn’t nearly as close as the semis.

Spain

Germany are the winners.

vs

France

After a relatively easy ride through to the quarters, Spain’s haute horologists can’t compete with the French savoir faire and heritage of Yema.

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FRONT — ask the oracle

THE ORACLE SPEAKS The wizardry of the watch world explained

of composites have come to define their style over the years. They’re also the reason their sporting ambassador can wear their oversized watches while playing. Carbon TPT®, Quartz TPT®, they’re at the bleeding edge of materials. Unfortunately, they also feel a lot like plastic.

Otherwise materials like Ulysse Nardin’s Carbonium and Girard-Perregaux’s ‘carbon glass’ take the organic, grained nature of these materials and run with it.

[Ceramic]

[Cutting Edge Materials in Watchmaking]

While some watchmakers see opportunities for the advancement of haute horology in refined mechanics and novel complications, the vast majority of brands are instead perfecting their timepieces with the introduction of ever newer, ever more advanced materials.

While NASA may be struggling for budget, watchmakers are apparently not if their R&D departments are anything to go by, and every year some new alloy, composite or other cutting-edge material is announced with a funky new name.

To cut through all the science-adjacent jargon, we’ve decided to go through the main materials used in watchmaking, what they are and why they’re being used.

[Composites]

The most common composite in watchmaking is Carbon Fibre, which thanks to marques like McLaren, is shorthand for racing performance. It’s made up of tiny, micro-thin fibres that when twisted together like yarn become ten times stronger than steel, at least at the upper end of the scale, while being five times lighter. Then there’s forged carbon which uses the same base material, but suspends it in a resin to strengthen it, allowing easily usable blocks of material.

Carbon however is just the tip of the composite iceberg. Many watchmakers over the years have been experimenting with similar concepts – lightweight polymers suspended in an epoxy resin – to create ever lighter, ever more durable materials.

Leading the pack is Richard Mille, and these kind

40

As you might have gauged from our cover star this issue, the Rado Captain Cook Ceramic, this material is in pretty high demand in the watch world. It has everything a fine timepiece could want: hardness, corrosion resistance, light weight and, at least these days, the potential for colour.

Zirconium Oxide Ceramic is made by firing a base material in incredible heat until it becomes a solid block of ultra-hardness. This isn’t just a labourintensive production method; it makes ceramic relatively difficult to work with even once its cooled. It’s phenomenally hard at 1200 HV but brittle, and a slight mistake while milling could result in the whole piece being scrapped. That also means that if you do manage to scratch your sexy ceramic bracelet, you can’t just get it buffed out.

Until recent years it was also a little restrictive of a material, available in mostly greys and blacks.

Now though we have Hublot with their intensely bright coloured versions, IWC’s sandy Mojave numbers and many more besides, all in that sleek, futuristic feel and finish.

[Titanium]

The most common aerospace material to find its way into watches, titanium is basically stainless steel but better. It’s lighter, more anti-magnetic and more durable at 350 HV. It can still scratch like other metals, but because of its natural oxidisation smaller scratches become less visible over time.

There are only two real downsides to titanium.

First, there’s the higher price compared to steel.

Second, there’s the finish. Titanium has a distinctive grey look that some collectors like, others find incredibly dull and flat.

Seiko at least have gone some way to alleviating the latter with their incredible, brightly polished titanium. As far as I’m aware Grand Seiko is the only watchmaker doing this but given the results, I doubt that it’ll stay that way for long.

Given sustainability is at the forefront of brand thinking these days, it’s also worth noting that Panerai’s own Eco-Titanium is completely recycled and still aviation grade.

FRONT — ask the oracle

Clockwise from top left: a mix of ceramic and titanium in a ceratanium furnace; the Girard-Perregaux Carbon Glass Concept; Panerai’s Carbotech composite material based on carbon fibre; the brightly polished titanium of the Grand Seiko; and Hublot’s ceramic Big Bang Unico Red Magic

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FRONT — ask the oracle

From top: the shiny purple of refined and revered silicon; Bell & Ross BR-X1 Skeleton Tourbillon Sapphire; IWC’s luxurious yet practical Armour Gold

[Silicon]

For years now Silicon has been considered one of the holy grails of watchmaking, a material delicate and flexible enough to be used in movements but is non-magnetic, has incredible corrosion resistance and has a smooth surface to lessen friction within the movement even without lubrication. Because silicon is an overachiever, it’s also shock resistant. It has everything.

It’s why the watch world at large – Omega and the rest of Swatch Group especially – has adopted it as the ultimate material for balance springs and escapements. Some, like Zenith, have even gone a step further and used the material for innovative new movements like seen in their Defy LAB. In its natural form, silicon – or silicium depending on who you’re talking to – is a shiny dark grey, but in its refined, usable form you’ll often recognise it for its eye-catching purple sheen.

[Sapphire]

Sapphire crystal isn’t exactly cutting-edge any more but it’s worth discussing given the surge in full sapphire-cased watches we’ve been seeing.

Sapphire glass is indeed the same basic compound as the gemstones, but without any of the impurities that lead to those kinds of beautiful colours.

The synthetic material is grown in sheets from crystalline aluminium oxides under high temperatures, and as such is a crystal rather than a glass. It’s the second hardest material to diamond 2200 HV compared to diamond’s 10,000 HV meaning some intense saws are needed to mill it into a form fit to protect your watch dial. Or in the case of everyone from Aventi to Bell & Ross to Girard-Perregaux, your entire watch.

It was first used by Rolex in the ref. 5100 in 1970 but these days it’s on every decent timepiece that’s not going to space. Perhaps more radically, as they have been doing in ceramic, Hublot has been creating a series of full coloured sapphire watches a la the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Orange Sapphire. Can’t quite imagine Rolex doing that.

[Alloys]

And now we get to the section that should really just be called ‘everything else’. I’m sure you know that an alloy is any combination of metals, meaning that most case metals in watchmaking are an alloy of some sort.

That means it ranges from various colours of rose gold – each different hue is a different combination of gold, copper and other metals – to super-strong titanium mixes. Some brands even combine precious metals with practical ones to create an

“ It’s why the watch world at large has adopted it as the ultimate material for balance springs and escapements ”

alloy with the best of both, creating hardwearing golds that balance luxury with practicality, like Armour Gold from IWC. If you can physically meld them together, there’s likely a watchmaker giving it a go.

There are even combinations of metals and other materials like the Cermet – ceramic and metal – that you can find here and there in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s collection, or Ceratanium, a more obvious combination of ceramic and titanium that IWC has adopted. They’re not alloys in the traditional sense, but the concept’s the same.

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FRONT — future past

WORDS:

SAM KESSLER

R

A

D

of FUTURE PAST

THE LATEST ITERATION OF THE SWISS WATCHMAKER’S SEMINAL THROWBACK TIMEPIECE BRIDGES THE GAP BETWEEN THEIR RETRO PAST AND CERAMIC FUTURE

45

O

FRONT — future past

The uncompromisingly retro 2017 re-issue of the original 1962 Rado Captain Cook has brought about a sea change in many watchmaker’s approach to historic timepieces

How do you bring together an icon defined by late 50s utilitarianism with the kind of cutting-edge materials and streamlined, semi-futuristic designs that are fully the province of modern Rado?

46

As little as ten years ago, you knew what you were getting with modern Rado. Between the sleek, minimal designs and the cutting-edge, high-tech ceramic that the Swiss watchmaker’s now synonymous with, they were closer to space age than your usual, more classical take on horology.

It’s the kind of futurist’s ideal that’s still very much a part of what they’re doing in the sinuous case shape of the True Thinline or the gargantuan sports watches of the HyperChrome – a name that itself sounds ripped from sci-fi pulp novels. Both models lean on ceramic heavily, both are uniquely eye-catching and instantly identifiable as Rado.

They’re also seven seas away from the brand’s most successful piece in years, the Captain Cook.

The Captain Cook first made its way into Rado’s catalogue in 1962, at the fishtail end of the golden age of underwater exploration. While Rolex, Blancpain and Doxa were already more entrenched in the diving world than the Mariana, Rado nonetheless manage to make their deep-dweller stand out with an incredible dial and bezel combination. It became an instant classic and, despite hanging around for just six years, original Captain Cooks still command serious money.

Then, after a nearly 50-year hiatus, Rado brought it back in 2017. It didn’t just make a splash; you could argue that the reintroduced, uncompromisingly retro Captain Cook of four years ago is largely to thank for the tsunami of historic timepieces dusted off from archives and brought back to life. Needless to say, it did pretty well for itself.

Since then there have been a few versions of the Captain Cook, with case sizes ranging from the original 36mm version to larger models in steel of course, but also bronze and a fair few dial colours to compliment those vintage good looks. The only problem, like with many a re-issue, is where do you go from there?

How do you bring together an icon defined by late 50s utilitarianism with the kind of cutting-edge materials and streamlined, semi-futuristic designs that are fully the province of modern Rado? Simple, really: the Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic.

Ceramic and retro don’t generally go hand-in-hand, and the material’s natural, ultra-hard sheen makes for a drastically different feel to the bones of the Captain Cook. It looks and feels smoother, sleeker and dramatically more modern, like decking out a vintage Riva in carbon fibre and chrome. It turns charmingly retro into downright cool, on the surface or 300m down.

Going beyond looks though and the monoblock ceramic case is arguably perfect for a watch designed for adverse elements. It’s not particularly lightweight, which isn’t really an issue in the depths, but it is super hard and immune to corrosion, both elements that hammer home the new watch’s position as a serious diver. If ceramic like this was around in the early 60s,

FRONT — future past

47

It’s the Plasma that best bridges the gap between Rado’s retro design heritage and their modern exploration of technology The new Captain Cook comes in three iterations; a black ceramic case with steel elements, black ceramic with rose gold and Plasma High-Tech Ceramic, as described by Rado

48

FRONT — future past

The re-imagined Captain Cook shares the proportions and iconic bezel of the original, but now features a dial that’s been given a smoked sapphire overhaul and has increased in size to 43mm

we’d probably see at least a few vintage tool watches in the same vein.

The Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic feels a lot more serious too. I loved the diminutive size of that first re-released version but here the 43mm fits the bolder, performance theme perfectly. Paired with Rado’s own R734 calibre with its impressive 80-hour power reserve and a antimagnetic Nivachron™ balance spring, it’s as solid as bedrock, even when near a magnet or two.

Looks wise, the line between past and present is a little more obvious. While the case proportions and that iconic bezel and crown are all present and correct, the dial has been given a smoked sapphire overhaul, a semi-openwork look at the movement underneath that’s normally reserved for skeleton watches.

If one were to overanalyse, you could say that it’s a visual representation of the dichotomies inherent in updating an archival design with cutting-edge watchmaking. Or you could just say that it looks cool and move on. Which it does.

49

The new Captain Cook comes in three different flavours. You have a black ceramic case with steel elements, black ceramic with rose gold elements and a version in what Rado call Plasma High-Tech Ceramic.

This is basically ceramic on steroids, fired at 20,000°C and cools to a unique metallic, gunmetal colour. Here that gunmetal is paired with blue ceramic for what is at once the most traditional looking and the most advanced of the three.

Indeed, while I’d say the black ceramic case is the standout – hence its place on our cover this issue – it’s the Plasma that best bridges the gap between Rado’s retro design heritage and their modern exploration of technology and new materials. It looks like a nice, modern diver by way of retro inspiration, but includes the mastery of modern materials that’s specific to Rado.

If you’re a fan of the original Captain Cooks, don’t fret. The new ceramic versions don’t mean that Rado is giving up on their archives. It just means that now there is a clear, succinct link between the watchmaker’s vintage past and their ceramic-clad future.

FRONT — doomsday clock

Words:

Sam Kessler

THE HIDDEN PRICE OF THE WATCHMAKING WORLD’S EVER MORE IMPRESSIVE QUEST FOR ACCURACY

How Watchmaking is ( S l o w l y ) Destroying the Universe

50

FRONT — doomsday clock

The aim of any good timepiece is accuracy. Sure, they can look good, tell you the time on other continents or showcase some extreme form of complication about as related to your everyday ticker as an F1 car is to a Ford Fiesta. Underpinning it all though is the quest for accuracy.

Accuracy is what separates a clock from a sundial, the focal point of centuries of fine watchmakers throughout history and plenty more working today. But what if we told you that the term ‘doomsday clock’ might be a little more prescient than you thought?

In a study at the University of Oxford, scientist Natalie Ares and her colleagues created a clock made up of a 50-nanometre thick membranes of silicon nitride. Like an electrostatic speaker, it was vibrated using an electrical current. The more it vibrated, the more accurate it became. And the more entropy it produced.

Entropy is, essentially, chaos. It’s the unavailability of a system’s thermal energy for conversion into mechanical work, the energy that is no longer useable. According to the second law of thermodynamics, entropy always increases over time meaning that we’re always shifting more into disorder as time ticks along.

As Ares puts it, “If a clock is more accurate, you are paying for it somehow” 51

It’s also linked to one of the theories of how the universe will end: heat death.

This is a scenario in which, as entropy increases, less and less energy is freely available to use, eventually leading to a universe in which there is no thermodynamic free energy and therefore no processes that increase entropy could occur. Given that’s pretty much everything, it’s a grim theory.

This all happens because, for most clocks, it takes energy to measure things more accurately. You put in more energy and more heat comes out, more fastmoving particles ready to bump around, knock each other off course and create ever more chaos, ever more entropy. As Ares puts it, “If a clock is more accurate, you are paying for it somehow.”

This has intriguing implications for time itself. The ‘arrow of time’ is the unsolved question about why time flows in one direction. Why exactly is it that the past is the past and the future is the future? One of the proposed solutions to that is entropy. Because the disorder created by entropy cannot be put back in order, there’s only one way the universe can slide.

The results aren’t all chillingly nihilistic though. This study only takes into account tightly controlled clocks and different timekeepers naturally produce different amounts of entropy.

Something with a thousand moving parts will of course produce more than a single membrane, even if it’s nowhere near as accurate. At the other end of the scale the theory hasn’t been tested on the extreme accuracy of atomic clocks.

In short, there’s a lot left unanswered.

It does though suggest that we perhaps shouldn’t get quite as hung up on accuracy as we always have been. Of all the things to bring about the end of the universe, we wouldn’t want it to be our beloved watches.

FRONT — carry on carrousel

WORDS:

ALEX DOAK

CARRY ON CARROUSEL ULYSSE NARDIN HAS BEEN FREAKING OUT FOR 20 YEARS SOLID, WITH ITS RESTLESS MERRY-GO-ROUND OF FAROUT MICRO-TECH

52

© Tom Pettit

FRONT — carry on carrousel

53

FRONT — carry on carrousel

The charismatic Rolf Schnyder (top) seen here dominating the boardroom after restoring the fortunes of the crumbling brand and (above) No.3 Rue de Jardin, the 19th-century building in Le Locle that remains the home of Ulysse Nardin today

“The Freak is still ahead of its time, and it will remain our ‘laboratory on the wrist’. It’s simply a freaky state of mind.”

For all of Switzerland’s deeply un-cool hyperbole, for once you can’t argue with Ulysse Nardin’s chief product officer, Jean-Christophe Sabatier. There is no overstating how restlessly innovative this take on the tourbillon’s rebel cousin, the carrousel, really is. The only tricky thing to weigh up is its influence, for as Sabatier notes, “It is a very specific and mechanically complicated product that cannot be counterfeited.”

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As far removed from a 19th-century pocket watch as it might seem, this is bang on brand. Back in horology’s heady days of modern-era explosion (1844 to be precise – precise being the operative word) a precociously talented Monsieur Ulysse Nardin borrowed 725 francs from his parents to set up shop.

Two years on, aged just 23, he was signing his own watches, becoming so successful that he employed a presumably proud (perhaps rather emasculated) father, while his sister Isaline was brought on to set the jewels.

Initially, young Ulysse’s stock in trade was minute repeaters and pocket chronometers, however the second generation of Nardins made their name in the marine chronometer business, cementing the nautical roots that prevail in today’s brand, right down to that iconic anchor logo. The large ‘M.Gr.F.’ marine chronometer of 1903 was used or copied wholesale by navies in all quarters of the oceangoing world, up to and beyond WWII. By 1980, the advent of quartz in the sixties, a failed rescue bid by American watchmaker Benrus, then the retirement or passing of every senior member of famille Nardin all conspired to reduce this once-proud company to a decrepit 19th-century building in Le Locle, housing two lonely watchmakers and one incredibly prestigious brand name.

Enter the late, great and irresistibly charismatic Rolf Schnyder (1935–2011). He’d already set up watch-part factories in Thailand and Malaysia when he bought Ulysse Nardin lock, stock and winding barrel. Other than giving No.3 Rue de Jardin a quick dust, his first move was bringing aboard a rising star of whom the young Ulysse would surely have approved: scientist, astronomer, horologist and all-round brainbox Ludwig Oeschlin, discovered by Schnyder restoring an astrolabe clock in the back of a Lucerne boutique.

Oechslin singlehandedly ushered in our post-QuartzCrisis era of the unexpected and covetable. First, a trio of astronomical masterpieces – 1985’s Astrolabium Galileo Galilei, 1989’s Planetarium Copernicus, and the Tellurium Johannes Kepler of 1992, named after Germany’s 17th-century genius of planetary motion.

Secondly, another precocious talent who Oeschlin recognised in an instant come 1997.

Refreshingly, it was a woman: one Ms Carole Forestier, who would go on to head up complications at Cartier for 21 years before moving to TAG Heuer’s skunkworks last March. It was Forestier who planted the seed of what we now know as the Freak when she won Breguet’s one-off, 250th-anniversary prize with her ‘Karrusel’ prototype. She didn’t know it at the time, but it would go on to serve as a petri dish for nigh-on every advance in mechanical materials over the next two decades.

As Sabatier attests, “[The Freak] will continue to preserve the unique state-of-mind brought by Ludwig and Rolf at its launch.”

FRONT — carry on carrousel

The almost relentless innovation at Ulysse Nardin is typified by their Freak next Oscillateur (top), which instead of using a balance wheel to eliminate poise error uses blades to keep the amplitude of the oscillator constant in any position

She didn’t know it at the time, but it would go on to serve as a petri dish for nigh-on every advance in mechanical materials over the next two decades 55

FRONT — carry on carrousel

The new Freak X (top) has a more approachable price tag than the original and is available in a smaller 43 mm diameter case. Ludwig Oeschlin’s revolutionary ‘dual direct’ escapement (above) features two friction-free escape wheels etched from silicon for the very first time in watchmaking

We’ve been living in an even-more remarkable era of Freak: a core ’X’ collection, now with a crown, but purchasable for just over £22,000 “However,” adds chief industrial and supply chain officer, Lucas Humair, who took over from Forestier in 1999, “there was a calculation error in her project, which resulted in a power reserve of less than 10 hours.

Ludwig took over and completely transformed it.”

More than that, Oeschlin rethought just about every tenet of wrist-born horology. Danish-born Bahne Bonniksen’s original 52.5-minute ‘carrousel’ concept of 1892 was upped to 60 minutes, so the entire rotating movement could double as a minute hand. Oeschlin

56

wrapped the mainspring about the circumference of the dial, gearing it to indicate the hours as it uncoiled.

To coil it up again (after seven days’ autonomy, no less) there is no winding crown; instead you twist the caseback, mirrored neatly by the dial-side bezel, which sets the time/carrousel itself.

As if that wasn’t enough, Oechslin’s launch model of 2001 nonchalantly threw in a ‘dual direct’ escapement, its two friction-free escape wheels photolithographically etched – for the very first time in watchmaking – from silicon. For watchnerds at least, this was a delicious irony, as Forestier’s flawed prizewinner of 1997 pipped to the post (some say unfairly) Derek Pratt’s Double Wheel Remontoir Tourbillon, which had finally perfected Abraham-Louis Breguet’s 200-year-old invention – beyond even the previous efforts of Pratt’s friend, Dr George Daniels.

Not only was Ulysse Nardin the first watch brand to use silicon – materials tech now found in £620 Tissots – but its success in the Freak led to a 2006 hook-up with with Swiss microengineering company Mimotec. Its collaborative ‘Sigatec’ now provides over 30 companies with silicon components. Then, along came diamond…

Or rather, ’DIAMonSIL’, in 2007. In this new species of Freak, following tentative and rather fragile experiments in solid synthetic diamond components, the silicon escapement parts were covered in a synthetic nanocrystalline diamond film, which bore the same hardness and consistency as pure diamond.

Come 2017, the Freak Innovision 2 introduced the world to ‘monobloc’ flexible tech, with a twitching, single-piece silicon escapement etched seemingly in the form of a Deception helmet, long before the likes of Zenith’s Defy Inventor. Then, in 2018, Ulysse Nardin made the Freak self-winding, thanks to a clever gearing system called Grinder, inspired by America’s Cup yachts’ pulley systems. Transplanted from the Innovision 2, essentially it lowers the winding system’s torque so that the energy of the slightest of movements can be captured and stored in the mainspring.

As of 2019, we’ve been living in an even-more remarkable era of Freak: a core ’X’ collection, now with a crown, but purchasable for just over £22,000 with all the freaky innovation you’d want under the bonnet: Grinder as standard, plus super-light silicon balance wheel with nickel flyweights and stabilising microblades. The top-end ‘NeXt’, meanwhile, took things higher still, with tri-stacked silicon wheels flexing at odds with each other, thus stabilising things better than ever.

“For the future, we will preserve the Freak’s DNA – which means a concept without a dial and hands,” says Jean-Christophe Sabatier. That sounds oversimplified, but what he really means is, other than a dial or hands, anything else is possible. Given what’s come before, you can believe him.

FRONT — man of influence

“The most important things in life are to love and to create.”

It’s not a surprising sentiment to hear from the devilishly handsome brains behind the collaborative horological studio of MB&F. With their timepieces ranging from bulldogs to eyes to the slightly phallic starship that is the HM09, commerciality obviously doesn’t come into it.

All of those pieces I just mentioned however come under the oddly shaped umbrella of Horological Machines. This year on the other hand marks ten years of the LM series, the closest thing the studio has to a classical timepiece. Funnily enough, it was also a series that, according to Max, was never meant to be.

“LM 1 was never supposed to be LM, there was no idea to create a new range, a new line, nothing. On HM04 I started what I call my balance wheel fetishism – which is completely legal –and I wanted to see the most beautiful parts of the movement.

“So I started drawing what looked like three tubes, one with the balance, one with the hours and minutes and one with the power reserve. Everything I came up with was absolutely god awful. So one day I just thought, let’s do something classical, a round watch. It made my lead designer – and best man at my wedding – walk out of the room.

But, being a dictator at the time, I won.”

Of course, stepping so far away from what was at the time the identity of MB&F required a bit of guidance, ideally from someone well versed in the more classical side of haute horology. Fortunately there are few watchmakers more experienced in that field than the inimitable Kati Voutilainen.

Unfortunately, after a quick meeting, it turned out that Kari was too busy to jump aboard the as-yet unnamed project.

“So just to get a bit of feedback,” explains Max, “I brought out the drawing we’d put together for some pointers. “You can do this,” he said, “you can do that, I’d do this with the bridges,” three or four minutes of sketches and ideas. Afterwards I asked him again if he was going to do it, he cracked up with a big smile and said “yes, this is a project I want to be on.” That was the beginning of LM.’ At the time it was a bit of a shock to the system for MB&F fans and fans of their breed of independent watchmaking. It was cool but classical, innovative yet entrenched in watchmaking past. It did however work as a kind of sister collection to the HMs.

Words:

Sam Kessler

Man of Influence:

MAX BUSSER

THE DRIVING FORCE BEHIND MB&F TALKS THE GENESIS OF THE LM MACHINE AND HIS BIGGEST MISSTEP IN WATCHMAKING

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FRONT — man of influence

MB&F have largely earned positive critical praise, but Busser (below) candidly describes the LM101 (left) as: “our biggest flop ever. It didn’t sell.

Nobody wanted it”

As Max puts it, “The HMs and LMs come from two very different places, different sides of the brain. The HMs are a kind of psychotherapy for me, wild, creative sculptures. They sprout out of me and I don’t know where from. LMs on the other hand are incredibly structured, intellectual developments. LMs start with movements, HMs start with ideas.”

It’s easy to look at everything that MB&F has done and assume that somehow, Max has never made a misstep.

There’s not a piece, be it HM, LM or table

“In short, I’m totally clueless as to what’s going to sell! So now we just create what we love and cross our fingers it works out” 60

clock that’s not garnered critical praise and clamouring collectors. That is, except for one piece: the LM101.

“LM101 was the first and last time I listened to my clients and my retailers.

We’d done LM 1 and everyone loved it… but thought it was too big. Pateks in those days were 39mm watches. It wasn’t the way I thought but sometimes you need to create a product to prove people wrong.

“So we built it. It was what all the collectors wanted, what all the retailers wanted and when it came out… it was our biggest flop ever. It didn’t sell. Nobody wanted it.”

Then of course came Dubai Watch Week 2019. Like many brands exhibiting, MB&F decided that they needed to build a limited edition for the show and took a punt on a handful of 101s in palladium.

They sold out in three weeks. Last year at Geneva Watch Days, they did the same again, this time in partnership with the maestros at Moser & Cie; all 60 pieces sold in four days.

“In short, I’m totally clueless as to what’s going to sell! So now we just create what we love and cross our fingers it works out.”

That’s probably a good attitude for a brand like MB&F. If you’re wondering if a star chariot-shaped clock being ridden by an alien will sell, there’s not a huge amount to compare it to. It’s not exactly a well-populated sub-genre of horology.

Hell, not even Max really knows where he gets these ideas. Not that he has no inclination about where they came from.

“I don’t think I get inspiration from anything in particular, but I always bear in mind something I believe Coco Chanel said: ‘he who insists on his own creativity has no memory.’ At least I think it was Chanel. However creative and crazy we are, we are the fruit of everything we have seen and heard, it seeps into us without us knowing and we bring something out of that. I know that I internalise things, even if I can’t pinpoint them exactly.

“It’s why I make sure I take an hour every few days to just think. That’s what I want to tell the millions of people that don’t think they’re creative. Of course you are! You’ve just shut down that part of your brain and convinced yourself you’re not. Everyone is creative, they just need the space to be.”

FRONT — books to bookmark

Max Busser

Books to Bookmark THE MB&F SUPREMO AND THINKER, MAX BUSSER SELECTS THE BOOKS THAT GIVE HIM PAUSE FOR THOUGHT

ART OF BREGUET

by George Daniels

The skills, innovations and sheer artistry of the greatest watchmaking of his age, as told by arguably the greatest of another, The Art of Breguet is one for the serious horologists among us, be they collector or watchmaker. The late, great George Daniels dives into the ways in which Abraham Louis Breguet impacted watchmaking, offering a detailed study accompanied by technical drawings and analysis to shed light on Breguet’s technical

philosophies and mastery of the craft. Complete with a foreword by Emmanuel Breguet, this is, in short, the complete bible of historical Breguet watchmaking.

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The Art of Breguet is one for the serious horologists among us, be they collector or watchmaker

OLD AUCTION CATALOGUES

LONGITUDE

by Dava Sorbel

“New auctions are only about sports Rolex, Nautilus, and other ‘premium’ products and there are virtually no great pieces of vintage watchmaking.”

According to Max, that means if you want to see some truly inspiring timepieces, the best way to go about it is to dredge up old auction catalogues to have a look through. Most auctioneers keep theirs on file, though the most readily available digitally are those of Antiquorum, who have made their archive stretching back to 1988 accessible online. Otherwise, eBay is your friend.

This true retelling of how one John Harrison solved arguably the greatest scientific problem of his age cuts through a good deal of the more esoteric aspects of the search for longitude, creating an easily digestible but no less impactful overview of a miraculous breakthrough. If you’re looking for treatise on physics and the minutiae of Harrison’s cutting-edge horology, this might not be what you’re after, but for the rest of us its an intriguing tale of how British inventiveness led to Britannia ruling the waves. For a time, at least.

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FRONT — time for change

M o v i n g with the

T i m e s

Words:

Josh Simms

HOW CAN AN INDUSTRY AS ARCHAIC AS WATCHMAKING FUTUREPROOF ITSELF? JOSH SIMMS FINDS OUT…

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FRONT — time for change

If, at the turn of the millennium, you’d have taken a long, cold look at the watch industry, you’d have been forgiven for concluding that it hadn’t advanced that much since the middle of the last century, contends Gregory Bruttin.

“But then the industry changed, manufacturing and the market become more accessible, and you started to see these new independent brands thinking another way,” says the product strategy director for Roger Dubuis, one such brand. “It’s been about taking responsibility for the watchmaking tradition but taking a more modern approach to design, one that gives real benefits to the customer.”

He’s not talking about telling the time, of course - a function long-since co-opted by the smartphone or activity tracker. It’s not even been about those muchtrumpeted advances that have provided fractionally greater precision or longer power reserve - primarily expressions of the watchmaking craft fascinating to the watch nerd but barely registering with the typical watch wearer.

Rather, Bruttin argues, it’s been about using computer-aided machinery, 3D printing and multi-axis milling, using those to get the best from materials

science - from titanium to carbon, silicon to graphene - and borrowing ideas from other much more hi-tech industries to provide bold solutions to matters of scratch-resistance, shock absorption, air and watertightness, legibility or excess weight. It has, in short, been about making the mechanical watch a much more modern device.

For all that the vast majority of watchmaking is largely traditional - and that’s aesthetically as well as technologically - a vanguard of relatively young makers the likes of Richard Mille, Ressence, HYT and Urwerk, among others, have become known for exploring often radical ideas. These might be a movement suspended on tiny cables to better cope with huge g-forces, a dial set in an oil-filled compartment to eliminate light refraction, the use of ceramic oxide components to reduce wear and tear in winding mechanisms, or construction stripped back to the bone so a watch is featherweight on the wrist.

Radical? Well, perhaps not. All such advances are doing, reckons Benoit Mintiens, Ressence’s founder and an industrial designer by trade, is to bring watchmaking somewhat closer to the creative ethos of any other 21st century industry, “In the way that, for

“It’s been about taking responsibility for the watchmaking tradition but taking a more modern approach to design, one that gives real benefits to the customer.”

One approach to move with the times has been to use materials more commonly associated with hi-tech industries, such as titanium, carbon, silicon and graphene in an attempt to futureproof the mechanical watch

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© Didier Gourdon

FRONT — time for change

Computer-aided machinery, 3D printing and multi-axis milling have all been used as manufacturer’s try to transform the mechanical watch into a more modern device

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FRONT — time for change

Now the industry perhaps faces a second extinction level event if it fails to appeal to new generations who have grown up digital natives

“The mechanical watch keeps advancing in a bid to futureproof it, but there’s also a case to say that the mechanical watch has long been redundant anyway,” notes Martin Frei, co-founder and designer for Urwerk

example, in the design world generally the more modern, the more lightweight, the more futuristic, the more lightweight...”

Indeed, arguably such advances - while coming from an elite band of makers, for the moment only accessible to an equally elite pocket, and not all capable of being manufactured at scale - will nonetheless prove crucial if the mechanical watch is to retain its relevance. If so many other of today’s everyday, not-obviously-techy products represent quantum leaps on from their forebears of not that long ago - from tennis racquets to sneakers, clothing to furniture to bicycles - why not the mechanical watch too?

Recall that the mechanical watch was decimated in the 1970s by a failure to respond to the advent of Quartz. Now the industry perhaps faces a second extinction level event if it fails to appeal to new generations who have grown up digital natives, largely watch-free and expecting utility and sustainability from the brands and the things they embrace. “Offering the most advanced [mechanical] product will be essential to attracting the younger customers,” notes Rado CEO Adrian Bosshard.

That can sometimes mean taking a punt - the longerterm efficacy of parts in silicon, for example, is not yet clear. This plays against one long-standing appeal

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of the mechanical watch - that, in the right hands, it’s endlessly repairable. Some aspects of watch design appear to be inherently futureproofed: despite trying, the industry has yet to find a better way of preserving energy in a mechanical watch than by using a spring in a barrel, an idea that dates to the 1760s. Others - the holy grail challenge to create a movement that doesn’t require periodic lubrication, for instance - will need a boldly experimental approach.

The results may not be to everyone’s taste, they may not chime with the industry’s love of heritage, nostalgia and a certain romance, but they necessarily move watchmaking on.

Of course, the elephant in the room is always the matter of why it’s worth bringing new ideas to a mechanical setting at all? “The mechanical watch keeps advancing in a bid to futureproof it, but there’s also a case to say that the mechanical watch has long been redundant anyway,” notes Martin Frei, co-founder and designer for Urwerk. “The tension between these two ideas poses the question of what exactly the mechanical watch is for now. What is its real role today? Perhaps it is moving closer to something more like art than engineering. That’s something the industry is still wrestling with. But the fact is that to stay contemporary, you have to react to the now.”

STYLE — opener

Style 70 / Here comes the sun 80 / Knowledge is power 89/ Your new future wardrobe

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STYLE — photoshoot

It seems like it’s been years rather than months since we last saw the sun and, while lockdown has been to thank for some of our vitamin D deficiency, the time has almost come for our annual top-up – and with it, a social calendar dominated by elegant garden parties, croquet and far too much champagne. Still, after so long indoors many of us are in dire need of a warm weather wardrobe update. What might have passed muster on a Zoom call simply won’t do mixing with polite society; the shame would be unbearable. So, dust off your linen blazer, don a pair of striped trousers and slip on some loafers – it’s time to make the most of British summertime.

Here comes the sun Styling: BETHANY PARKINSON

Photography: FRASER VINCENT & TOM PETTIT

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model: TOM BOWEN

STYLE — photoshoot

CASHMERE CABLE KNIT CREW NECK SWEATER, £445, Anderson & Sheppard LINEN STRIPE WEEKEND FIT SHIRT,£295 Turnbull & Asser CREAM DRAWSTRING TROUSERS, £159, Oliver Spencer Tribus TRI-03 Power Reserve GMT COSC £1,895, tribus-watches.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

CORDUROY WORKERS JACKET, £995 Anderson & Sheppard WHITE COTTON SHIRT, £195 Private White INCOTEX VENEZIA TROUSERS £280, Slowear SUEDE LOAFERS, £375 Crockett & Jones

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STYLE — photoshoot

Christopher Ward Sealander Automatic £595, christopherward.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

Longines Spirit £1,750, longines.com

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STYLE — photoshoot

LINEN SAFARI OVERSHIRT £450, Anderson & Sheppard OWEN TENCEL SHIRT, £110, Filippa K TERRY COTTON CHINOS, £140, Filippa K BLACK PENNY LOAFER, £420, Crockett & Jones

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STYLE — photoshoot

THEOBALD SUIT JACKET, £329, Oliver Spencer WHITE LINEN SHIRT, £195, Private White INCOTEX VENEZIA TROUSERS, £270, Slowear

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STYLE — photoshoot

Oris Cotton Candy £1,900, oris.ch

STYLE — photoshoot

NAVY COTTON SAFARI JACKET, £595 Private White CRIMSON LINEN SHIRT,£275 Turnbull & Asser NAVY COTTON DRILL SHORTS, £195. Private White BLACK PENNY LOAFER, £420. Crockett & Jones

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STYLE — photoshoot

Hermès H08 £4,440, hermes.com

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STYLE — knowledge is power

Words: NICK CARVELL

WHEN IT COMES TO THE FUTURE OF YOUR WARDROBE, KNOWLEDGE IS POWER Are your clothes choices making a bigger impact on the environment than on your wardrobe?

NEIGHBORHOOD One Of These Days Camp-Collar Printed Woven Shirt £525

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STYLE — knowledge is power

SOMETIMES IT FEELS LIKE the future is something to be dreaded, not joyfully anticipated. After four years of Trump, Brexit, an unprecedented global pandemic and death of a senior royal, my immediate reaction to the chime of the BBC News app is, ‘Oh god, what’s happened now?’ - the mere prospect of reading a news story is enough to elicit anxiety even before I click the notification to do so. While I grew up excited about the possibilities technology could have to benefit humanity (I was obsessed with outer space and my favourite TV show was Thunderbirds - still is, to be honest), today the narrative surrounding the future of our planet is that it’s something we’re running out of time to save. The problems we face with climate change especially seem so great and so out of our control as individuals, that it can leave you feeling totally helpless. As a menswear writer, I am made acutely aware of this on an almost daily basis.

It’s a well-known fact that the fashion industry is one of the most polluting on the planet, a triple-pronged environmental attack involving the creation of clothes, their distribution and our insatiable consumption. Add into that a hellscape of marketing misinformation and greenwashing from big brands trying to cover their tracks (or should that be carbon footprints?) and, rather ironically for an aesthetically-minded industry, it’s not a pretty picture. However, I remain an optimist. There are very definitely things we can all do as we build our future wardrobes that will have a real, positive impact on the industry and the planet moving forward - and the first thing is to reassess our personal relationships with what we wear.

“Historically, people’s wardrobes were much smaller. People bought less, wore it longer, and took better care of their clothing,” says Professor Andrew Groves, professor of fashion design at the University of Westminster. “This created an emotional attachment to them as objects, and items of clothing were likely to be passed down through the family as a result.”

Of course, we all know what happened next. Starting in the middle of the last

The availability of consumer credit and a drop in prices has seen attitudes to clothing shift over the past 50 years from treasured items that were passed between generations to something that’s easily expendable

There are definitely things we can all do as we build our future wardrobes that will have a real, positive impact on the industry and the planet century with the rise of mass market, high volume brands, this went into maximum overdrive in the mid-2000s when fast fashion brands with gargantuan stock levels and global reach started offering consumers a weekly churn of cheap goods.

“Over the last 50 years, there has been a shift toward impulse purchasing of fashion rather than a more planned approach to consumption,” continues Groves. “This is due to an increase in readily-available credit to consumers and a real-term decrease in the product’s price on the shop floor.

People thought more about the item they wanted to buy and whether it was

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worth it if they had to save for a few weeks before purchasing. It didn’t matter once clothing prices were low enough that you didn’t have to worry about those questions.”

These are the uncomfortable questions that we need to ask of retailers once again. And while the internet has a lot to answer for when it comes to the current dominance of fast fashion brands in the shopping landscape, one of the positives is that it’s given us access to hard truths and facts that previous generations did not have.

Having access to all this information about the negative impact of the fashion industry might make you feel helpless to

STYLE — knowledge is power

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STYLE — knowledge is power

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STYLE — knowledge is power

change the situation, but we need to see it as liberating - and use it to hold those who we purchase from to account.

“If you’re just waking up to this, it can be pretty scary,” says Debbie Luffman, product director at British label Finisterre (finisterre.com). “While I can see this is an anxious time for the consumer, the more we, as a company, can share real stories and honest facts, it’s really going to help the consumer.”

Finisterre was founded in 2003 in a flat above a surf shop in Devon, and has been crafting sustainably-minded sleek-yet-rugged adventure gear from its inception. Its latest line, Kernowaii, is a prime example of this. Splashed with a bold print that showcases local foliage from Cornwall in the style of a surfready Hawaiian shirt, these pieces are made from recycled nylons and organic cottons, and digitally printed for minimal water and energy use.

“We’re a brand that’s always been inspired by the ocean - it’s our source of inspiration and our playground,” says Luffman. This key aspect of the brand has made the team conscious of the impact it has on the natural environment from the get-go. Today, Luffman cites their biggest sustainability challenges as reducing their carbon footprint (“our oceans take the real brunt of CO2 emissions”) and reducing the prevalence of micro fibres.

“These are a huge issue and one that’s widely misreported as micro plastics, but all textiles are bad for the sea,” Luffman continues. “We’ve started to develop biodegradable synthetics that break down naturally in a marine environment. For us, ocean health needs to be built into our product.”

And while it’s a goal that they’re still yet to fully realise, Luffman remains positive that this will actually happen soon due to the current pace of change within the industry.

“The innovation in the field of sustainability in the last decade, even in the last two years, is staggering. I’m incredibly positive for that reason.

Within the supply chain, particularly from the real innovators at factories and mills, the speed of innovation is staggering - from fabrications to

Professor Andrew Groves (left) believes a lack of consumer knowledge about materials and their environmental impact poses a problem, and that manufacturers should legally have to display information about what goes into their clothing

“The innovation in sustainability in the last decade, even in the last two years, is staggering.

I’m incredibly positive for that reason” transport and distribution. It does need to happen faster so that urgency has to be there, but it’s always picking up pace.”

The pace of change is also being affected by a younger generation of designers filtering through for whom sustainability isn’t just a buzzword, it’s an essential part of the business plan for their brand.

“Steven Stokey-Daley [ssdaley.com], a new menswear designer, is doing many things right. He’s considering sourcing his fabrics, selling direct to consumer, and avoiding overreach and seasonal collections,” says Professor Groves.

“Almost all young designers want to create better, more sustainable products.

The problem, I believe, is a lack of consumer knowledge about materials, their origins, and their environmental impact. If this was legislated to be much clearer, consumers would make better decisions, which would then feedback

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into the design process.”

To that end, Groves believes that garment-makers should legally have to display more information about what goes into their creation. Much like food labelling, he thinks that all clothing should have a traffic-light system on both labels and websites so that consumers can clearly understand how sustainable their choices are. Once again, there’s hope that more information can help liberate consumers to make better choices.

However, in the meantime, we need to do the leg work. So if you’re looking for new pieces this summer, think about the kind of future you’re planning to have with that item, take a look at the label’s sustainability page and, if in doubt, ask the brand some of those uncomfortable questions. Knowledge is power - and that’s the real way you can change things for the better for all of us. The future starts in your wardrobe right now.

STYLE — must-haves

GET A MAN-MADE SHIRT

You heard that right. Plastic synthetic fabrics like nylon have (rightfully) gained a poor reputation since their invention last century for their tendency to pollute the environment, not only during their creation, but also after their use has ended, clogging up landfills where they will fester for centuries before degrading (if at all). Thankfully, a new generation of synthetic fabrics created from natural sources, such as lyocell and Tencel, and sustainably managed natural fibres are being adopted more and more by designers - and they’re coming to a shirt near you this summer.

FRESCOBOL CARIOCA,

> Invented in Australia, Tencel is made from cellulose that’s found in wood pulp. Now I know what you’re thinking: fabric made from trees?

Sounds scratchy. Far from it. The result is a supremely silky, slinky material that falls beautifully and looks totally badass - as seen with this new 100% Tencel shirt by Brazilian beach brand Frescobol Carioca. £175, FRESCOBOLCARIOCA.COM

edit: NICK CARVELL

Your future wardrobe starts here Until the day comes where humans can walk around naked, we’re all going to need clothes - and as long as we need clothes, we need to deal with the environmental impact that has. One of the most important ways you can reduce the environmental impact of your wardrobe is not only buying less, but also buying better. These two things are inextricably linked - clothes made from higher quality fabrics using time-honored craftsmanship will inevitably last longer, and will generally be easier to repair, meaning they’ll stay with you for longer. On top of that many of these items will also avoid planet-damaging chemicals in their creation and less single-use plastic in their packaging. It’s a win for everyone. Here are a few items that will help you look good, smell good and do good this summer.

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STYLE — must-haves

ARKET,

> Think of Tencel as the ‘Hoover’ to lyocell’s ‘vacuum cleaner’ - both are essentially the same thing, it’s just that Tencel’s a brand name for this eucalyptus-derived fabric. Whichever you go for, another of the firbe’s advantages is that it ages wonderfully, getting softer and softer with each wash while retaining crisp colours. It’s the sort of fabric that really makes patterns and stripes pop, so go wild - this black and white bar-stripe lyocell shirt from Swedish brand Arket will only get better with age. £69, ARKET.COM

NN07,

> We’ve already talked about the benefits of Tencel (botanical origin, biodegradability, low ecological impact during manufacture), but linen is another fabric you should get familiar with as it takes far less water to produce than other natural fibres. Combine the two and you’ve got a shirt that’s a bit of a sustainability superduo. This Tencel-linen mix shirt from Japanese label NN07 really hits the spot. £110, MRPORTER.COM

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It’s the sort of fabric that really makes patterns and stripes pop, so go wild

SIR PLUS,

> Cotton’s a classic shirting fabric, but it can be produced in a way that’s not only a bad deal for the planet, but also a bad deal for the people making it. Look out for companies who are part of the The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) - a certification that covers issues such as crop protection, water stewardship, soil health, biodiversity and fair employment principles in the fabric’s manufacture. London-based menswear label Sir Plus is one such brand - and they’ve just launched this killer BCI Cotton kaftan for summer. £110, SIRPLUS.CO.UK

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STYLE — must-haves

FINISTERRE,

> Another pair of wood-based wonderpants, this time created by British adventure brand Finisterre. They’re made from a bamboo-derived fabric, designed to regulate temperature, wick moisture away from the skin and keep you feeling fresh all day long. £25, FINISTERRE.COM

GET SOME ETHICALLY-MINDED UNDERWEAR

Sometimes the concept of sustainability feels very distant from our everyday lives - but your underwear is about as close as it can get. As something you (probably) slip on every day and replace relatively often, make a commitment to phasing in more sustainable fabrics as your old kecks head off to the great recycling plant in the sky. Not only are there plenty of new wave sustainable fabrics out there, but there’s also a style to suit every under-trouser preference.

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STYLE — must-haves

EVEREST ISLES,

> American eco-beach brand Everest Isles has just launched a line of underwear made from a mix of seaweed fibre and lyocell. Better yet, it’s coloured using natural dyes and comes in fully water-soluble packaging. £20, EVERESTISLES.COM

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Tencel is naturally antibacterial and sweat wicking because, well, you know

CDLP,

> Now skinny jeans are dead once and for all, I predict a comeback for the boxer short. However, rather than the baggy, bunched-up ones you remember, this new boxer will combine slinky stretch fabric with a relaxed-yet-fitted cut, as well as the trademark button fly, so they slip nicely under a pair of slim-not-skintight trousers. These Tencel boxers from CDLP are a perfect example. £33, CDLP.COM

A DAY’S MARCH,

> Crafted from Tencel, these boxer-briefs from Swedish brand A Day’s March are as soft as they are sturdy. Also a polite reminder that Tencel is naturally antibacterial and sweat wicking because, well, you know. £15, ADAYSMARCH.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

GO AU NATUREL IN THE BATHROOM

There’s a whole lot of single use plastic in our homes, and especially in our bathrooms. From bottles to wrappers, many of the things we use to clean ourselves do the planet dirty. So next time you need a new shampoo, skip the one-time plastic receptacle and go for something that can be reused, refilled or properly recycled altogether. Here are a few suggestions...

AKT DEODORANT,

> Traditional deodorant is full of chemicals and metals that we’re unwittingly pumping into our pores on a daily basis. The sooner you switch to something more natural the better, and I’ve found nothing that works as well as AKT. Founded by West End actors Ed Currie and Andy Coxon, these deodorant balms come in cream form. Made from soothing shea butter and calendula oil and infused with natural botanicals, one pea sized application in the morning gives you 24 hours of protection.

Better yet it comes in fully recyclable metal packaging (even the cap) and you can order your tubes on a subscription basis, so your armoury stays stocked all year long. £18, AKTLONDON.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

NEAL’S YARD HAND SANITISER,

> After a year of using hand sprays constantly, I feel I’ve become a bit of a sanitiser sommelier - and, trust me, Neal’s Yard’s Natural Defence is the Dom Perignon of its genre. Light and refreshing with zero stickiness, this citrus and witch hazel infused liquid also comes in a recyclable glass bottle that you can use to fill any spray vessel you wish, meaning no more little plastic bottles heading off to landfill. £12.50 FOR 200ML, NEALSYARDREMEDIES.COM

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Trust me, Neal’s Yard’s Natural Defence is the Dom Perignon of its genre HAWKINS & BRIMBLE REFILLABLE ESSENTIALS,

> British grooming brand Hawkins & Brimble wants to ditch 95% of its plastic usage by the end of this year. To help achieve this, the company has just introduced a new range of refillable grooming essentials from shampoo to hair spray. Launching this month, these five products come in refillable aluminium packaging, and can be topped up using recyclable refill pouches.

REFILLABLE BOTTLES, £12.

REFILL POUCHES, £7.

HAWKINSANDBRIMBLE.CO.UK

JONES & MODHA NO.1 EAU DE PARFUM,

> Frustrated by the amount of synthetic ingredients in commercial fragrances, friends Catrin MacDonnell and Hemali Modha decided to make a scent that went back to perfume’s botanical roots. Made in small batches by the pair in Somerset, Jones & Modha No.1 uses only naturallyderived notes to create a crisp woody-citrusy juice that works for both men and women. Better yet, it reacts to the oils in your skin as it develops, meaning you’ll never smell the same as anyone else. £69, JONESANDMODHA.CO.UK

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SOME FUTUREPROOF NEW RELEASES...

From futuristic fabrics to environmentally-conscious workout shirts, here are a few extra pieces worth considering that will keep your wardrobe feeling fresh for many seasons to come.

LULULEMON’S EARTH DYE WORKOUT GEAR,

> I’ve been a longtime fan of the quality and superb comfort of Lululemon’s workout kit, but this new collection takes it to a whole new level. Cut from fabric that mixes pima cotton with lyocell, every piece in this new tie-dye-tastic Earth Dye capsule has been coloured using a variety of plant-based dyes that use waste from agricultural and herbal industries. They’ve introduced this across a number of their best-loved items, so whether you want to go head-to-toe or simply fancy bringing a pop of something to your gear now you’re returning to the gym, there’s will be something for you. £48, LULULEMON.CO.UK

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STYLE — must-haves

FLAX LONDON’S FIRST TROUSERS,

SERENGETI’S SPACE AGE SHADES,

> What makes Flax London’s products great - and they are truly great - is that sustainability is baked into everything they make. Formerly a shirt-only brand, this month they launch their first trousers, cut from linen (which takes less water to produce) grown in Belgium and woven in Portugal (so fewer air miles) and including zero plastic packaging from the workshop to your door.

Featuring patch pockets and a higher-cut waist, go for the green iteration for a truly breezy summer trouser. £160, FLAXLONDON.COM

> Sometimes the most successful designs are those that combine respect for the past with the technology of the future. Take these shades from Serengeti. Sure the frame’s got that throwback mid-century vibe, but the lens is so advanced that it feels like it’s from mid-next-century. Crafted from borosilicate optical glass (that’s 20% thinner and lighter than any other on the market), these photochromic mineral lenses are fired in a hydrogen-fueled lehr furnace, which activates the company’s patented Spectral Control technology (which filters blue light, both protecting your eyes and adding definition to whatever you are looking through the glasses at). Plus, they’re also chemically tempered to ensure scratch and impact resistance - so it’s an investment that’ll last way into the future – provided you don’t lose them sometime before the next century. £375, SERENGETI-EYEWEAR.COM

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The lens is so advanced that it feels like it’s from midnext-century

BARACUTA X BY BORRE RECYCLED POLYESTER VEST,

> Need a little extra insulation on summer nights? British outerwear brand Baracuta has teamed up with Dutch textile design company Byborre on a new collaboration featuring bold tartan prints and futuristic technical fabric. This vest is cut from Sinterama Newlife, a superior quality, recycled polyester fabric created from post-consumer plastic obtained from plastic bottles collected in northern Italy. If you need to justify purchasing it, you’ll be pleased to hear this vest is also reversible - so it’s basically two items for the price of one. Ish. £425, BARACUTA.COM

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STYLE — must-haves

GEOFF STOCKER SULTAN DRESSING GOWN,

VIVVANT URBAN PEACH COLOUR LEATHER SNEAKERS,

> With the new normal now working from home, it’s about time we upped our game when it comes to loungewear and the collection of silk dressing gowns from Geoff Stocker is essentially the final level of sartorial grandeur. Inspired by the designer’s travels across the world, the gowns come in a series of exquisite patterns printed onto lightweight twill silk, pairing exotic colours and motifs with the traditional luxury of the lord of a manor. The Sultan, with its echoes of the Kasbah is the kind of loungewear you don’t want to hide, video call or no. Nor should you. £495, GEOFFSTOCKER.COM

> British design meets Florentine craftsmanship; what’s more timeless than that? These pale peach sneakers from dual citizenship brand Vivvant are a perfect summer essential, ready to be paired with a smart casual linen blazer or something a touch more casual. They’re a versatile classic in the making with a colour just unusual enough for a touch of warm weather flair, combined with the level of quality you’d expect from Italian leather artisans. £248, VIVVANT.CO.UK

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A good pair of tailored shorts will never go out of style

MR MARVIS THE SUNSETS ORIGINAL SHORTS ,

> We might only be able to make the most of them half the year – if we’re being meteorologically generous – but a good pair of tailored shorts will never go out of style. Fortunately, Mr Marvis Original Shorts don’t just make the most of the elegant cut that put the brand on the map, but come in over 40 shades to match your wardrobe, the season or your general mood. For us, the Sunsets with their bright coral stretch cotton make for a timeless taste of sunshine and sangria, the kind you come back to year after year. £79, MRMARVIS.CO.UK

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STYLE — how to wear

Words: BENEDICT BROWNE

HOW TO WEAR:

FUTURIST CAMP COLLAR SHIRTS Born as workwear, the camp collar has all the qualities of an ideal summer shirt and this season the vogue is futurism

It’s a little bit Miami Vice meets Scarface, but it works and it’s fun

THE CAMP COLLAR SHIRT has certainly benefited from the cyclical nature of trends and, while many styles come and go, there’s no reason to think that it will become outdated again. After all, its qualities as a must-have summer shirt are too irresistible.

Like all of the best garments in the modern wardrobe, the camp collar shirt is a descendant of workwear. Conceived with the functional purpose of keeping you cool in the heat thanks to an open neck, short sleeves, and loose fit (with the occasional pocket for utility purposes), it was originally worn by

Cuban farmers in the late 19th century.

However, it was the Americans who instigated the evolution of the camp collar shirt to a leisurewear staple in around the mid-century. It was popularised to such an extent it was almost as ubiquitous as a pair of Levi’s blue jeans. Then, the camp collar shirt became obsolete towards the end of the century but not for long, as it made itself known again in the fashion world a few years ago. Now, you’d be hard-pressed to find a luxury brand that didn’t have a camp collar shirt in its spring/summer collection, and it’s a wonderful thing.

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While camp collar shirts can be found in plenty of plain fabrics, it’s ones with arresting designs and crazy patterns that are most interesting. For summer, designers approach the camp collar like an artist approaches a freshly-primed canvas, and the movement that’s currently in vogue is certainly futurism.

The expression ‘easy does it’ springs to mind when discussing how to wear a camp collar shirt; don’t overthink and overwork them. In nature, it’s a casual garment, and so it’s designed to be worn untucked with befitting garments such as shorts and loose-fitting trousers.

Because futuristic shirts are fairly loud, they should be worn with solid colours, as mixing patterns can get messy. Opting for either a white cotton T-shirt or cellular vest beneath will help put the two together, as the contrast calms the look down and adds balance.

Camp collar shirts can also be dressed up, too, and are a fun option to have in your wardrobe for social events. To do this, they can be slipped beneath a tailored jacket but bear in mind the tones that are going on and whether they complement each other. Tuck it into a pair of tailored trousers and sport the collar over the lapels of your jacket.

It’s a little bit Miami Vice meets Scarface, but it works and it’s fun.

Fun is definitely the operative word when it comes camp-collar shirts. And, after the last year or so we’ve had to endure, we all deserve a bit of that.

STYLE — must-haves

edit: BENEDICT BROWNE

Three

of the

Best

Futuristic, wild and bold, it’s time to make a camp collar summer statement with three eye-catching designs for your sartorial consideration

ENDLESS JOY JIM MOIR TURMOIL CAMP-COLLAR PRINTED TENCEL SHIRT

Using the humble shirt as a canvas, Endless Joy has worked with British artist Jim Moir (better known as Vic Reeves) to transform a surreal depiction of turmoil into a wonderfully breathable, eye-catching summer number. It’s playful and disturbing in equal measure. £365 FROM MRPORTER.COM

SUN SURF SS36837 “PARADISE FLOWER” HAWAIIAN SHIRT BLUE

Made from beautiful natural rayon, each shirt is individually screen printed to replicate every nuanced detail of this surf-inspired Hawaiian design, about as close to a vintage number from the golden era of the style as possible. £185 FROM CLUTCH-CAFE.COM

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It’s playful and disturbing in equal measure

CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY FACE-PRINT SILK-BLEND SHIRT Created in collaboration with fashion illustrator and womenswear designer Julian Scarry, this surrealist statement piece is printed onto a lightweight Hawaiian silhouette and Cuban collar, finished with a buttoned chest pocket. £435 FROM MATCHESFASHION.COM

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THE SPECS

• 40mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance • L888.4 automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve • £1,750, longines.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

LONGINES SPIRIT GREEN

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In case you happen to be colourblind or a particularly well-read dog, you might have missed that green is the colour of 2021. Rather than any eco-friendly, sustainable, upcycled way I mean it literally. Hues of emerald, olive and forest have been encroaching their way into the watch world for a while now, but this year they’ve taken root as a fundamental dial option.

Even the big boys like Rolex and Patek Philippe have gone green, so it’s definitely here to stay. Which suits me just fine to be honest, it’s my favourite colour. I’m a fan. I also happen to be a fan of Longines 2020 Spirit collection, which for me was the finest non-Heritage release from the Winged Hourglass for a couple of years at least.

I think you can guess where I’m going with this. Yes, Longines has now introduced a new model to their five-star Spirit range and yes, it has a green dial.

The Spirit is that precarious halfway house between modern and retro, a kind of ‘what if vintage Longines pilots were made now’. It’s a more difficult balancing act than it sounds and Longines has done a pretty solid job of it, creating a broader, more accessible type of pilot’s watch among the host of archival re-issues we’re consistently inundated with.

It does still have some of the core characteristics of an aviation timepiece, with its large, legible indexes towering over the dial, a retro railtrack minute scale and an oversized but not ridiculous crown. It’s definitely not trying to be authentically military, but the hints are there, which make the olive green Longines has chosen a perfect fit.

Olive naturally has military connotations but, also serves to offer a more casual option than darker, dressier colours.

In fact, the colour here is pretty close to what Patek has used on their last hurrah of a 5711/1A and for much the same reason. It’s the perfect compromise between trendy elegance and sports practicality.

Otherwise, the Spirit is unchanged, including the exceptional case finishing of brushed and polished surfaces.

Here we have the 40mm version which isn’t just a better size as far as I’m concerned, but also drops the three entirely in favour of the date window, unlike the 42mm version which cuts it off. This way it looks cleaner and neater.

Either way it comes on either a three-link bracelet or, as we have here, a beige leather strap. Beige and green are perfect together, so I’d definitely opt for this version. That said, the straps are easy enough to change on these models that I’d probably switch now and then.

Inside we have the L888.4 which is basically a modified ETA number. Very well modified, I hasten to add, as the anti-magnetic silicon balance spring and 72-hour power reserve make it a beast of a movement in this price range.

And the one above, for that matter.

Indeed, the Spirit as a whole is a lot of watch for the £1,750 it’ll set you back, cementing Longines as a go-to mainstream brand for value. Sure, that’s what you get when you have the gargantuan infrastructure of Swatch Group behind you but that’s still an impressive achievement.

Now I can go back to waiting for their next Heritage launch… £1,750, longines.com

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The Spirit is that precarious halfway house between modern and retro, a kind of ‘what if vintage Longines pilots were made now’

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• C63 Sealander Auto / C63 Sealander GMT • 39mm stainless steel case with 150m water resistance • Sellita SW200-1 / Sellita SW330-2 with a 38 / 56-hour power reserve • From £595 / £795, christopherward.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

CHRISTOPHER WARD SEALANDER

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Christopher Ward’s release schedule seems unstoppable. Every couple of months there’s some cool new addition to their range, whether it’s slathered in lume, covered by translucent sapphire or a colourful, retro throwback. You could say there’s a watch for everyone.

Now though the accessible watchmaker has released what they consider the watch for everyone: the C63 Sealander.

You can trust Christopher Ward to exploit any hole in the market and, with Rolex’s lacklustre celebration of 50 years of the Explorer, it’s not hard to imagine what the British brand is going for here.

There are two main watches in the collection, the first being the vanilla Sealander Automatic. It’s 39mm of stainless steel and comes in black or white dials with various strap options. It’s honestly pretty basic but handsome all the same, especially in the white version we have here.

It really is the everyman’s watch and there’s not really an occasion it would look out of place for. At the same time – or perhaps because of that – it just doesn’t grab me. It’s meant to be that fine balance of elegance and utilitarianism that made the Explorer so famous, and it does have some of that going for it with the lovely light-catcher case with its perfectly proportions lugs. There’s just not enough to get my attention.

That though might be a bit of a moot point as it’s hard to argue with the price. Equipped with a Sellita SW200-1 calibre, a workhorse if ever there was one, it’s solid, versatile and has the kind of precision finishing that you generally don’t find in watches under £1,000. The Sealander Automatic is just £595, £700 on a bracelet. Go figure.

Then there’s the Sealander GMT which is even more impressive, both for value and for sheer style. The similarities to the Explorer II are even more obvious here, with its fixed 24-hour bezel. Honestly, that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

Christopher Ward has made their name showing up and undercutting classic designs and this is absolutely pitchperfect for them.

Again, it’s available in black and white, the latter of which we have here, complete with orange highlights on both the hour markers and centre seconds and GMT hand. The original idea behind the fixed bezel was so that you can tell the time of day via the 24-hour hand, even if you find yourself stuck in an arctic cave.

In this instance however, the Sellita SW330-2 GMT movement lets you set the 24-hour hand separately, allowing this version of the Sealander to double as a traveller’s watch, too. It also has a 50-hour power reserve, again slightly above what you’d expect at this price point.

My only real qualm about it is the date window. It’s actually slightly to the left of the six o’clock mark, which brings out the OCD itch at the back of my brain. That’s down to the

Sure, the GMT may wear its inspiration on its sleeve, but that’s led to a great-looking watch 109

movement used of course, but it’s still a touch frustrating.

Beside that, the Sealander GMT is certainly handsome, although it’s perhaps a little chunkier than I’d like. For a watch designed for all occasions, the dimensions come across sporty more than anything else. Still, it’s a reassuring weight of metal and definitely a more interesting watch than the basic Sealander Automatic.

Then, once again, there’s the price. The bracelet version we have here is £900, a solid £200 above that of the entrylevel Sealander. Honestly though, that’s money well spent.

Sure, the GMT may wear its inspiration on its sleeve, but that’s led to a great-looking watch – and it’s not like you’d go to Christopher Ward for prestige, anyway.

I still don’t think that Christopher Ward has somehow, against all odds, created the ultimate watch for every occasion, the only watch any man will ever need. They have however built a seriously competitive all-rounder that looks and feels like its hitting well above its price tag. That’s more than enough.

From £595 / £795, christopherward.com

FRONT — watch reviews

THE SPECS

• 43mm titanium case with 50m water resistance • UN-230 calibre automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve • £22,700, limited to 30 pieces, ulysse-nardin.com

HANDS-ON WITH THE

ULYSSE NARDIN

FREAK X RAZZLE DAZZLE

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The Freak is… an insane watch. I mean with a name like that it couldn’t be anything else, but even in the realms of avant garde haute horology with your MB&Fs, Urwerks and other weird and wacky designs, it stands apart.

A good part of that is that it came at the right time, a perfect storm of inspired design and haute horology that the turn of the millennium was desperate for. Part of that is the sheer audacity with which Ulysse Nardin has presented it over the years.

For the former you can check out Alex Doak’s piece on the history of Ulysse Nardin and the Freak on page 53. For the rest, there’s this, the Freak X Razzle Dazzle. It’s a ballsy name for a ballsy watch.

As part of the Freak X collection, the Razzle Dazzle is essentially the base level version of the famous carousel model. The concept is the same as it has been since the first Freak burst onto the scene, a movement that itself rotates without dial or hands, instead using its main bridge as the minute indicator and one of the wheels for the hours.

The difference here is the new pattern. Eye-catching doesn’t even come into it. The zebra-striped geometric mess of black and white might look like a magic eye picture, but it’s actually based on camouflage. Not traditional, army camouflage but that used on British boats in WWI. Calling it camouflage might seem crazy, but the idea wasn’t in fact to hide the boats, but to confuse the eye, making it hard to gauge size, distance and ultimately hit the target in a real-life game of battleships. Looking at it now though, it’s no surprise that Picasso claimed Dazzle camo was designed by cubists.

It takes a certain kind of madness to apply a pattern overtly designed to be an eyesore to a watch and honestly, if there were more dial to the Freak X it wouldn’t work. It’s touch and go as it is, but for me, the way the height of the carousel dominates the visuals means that the razzle dazzle fades into the background enough to make it acceptable. Not subtle, but acceptable.

The idea was apparently to tie into Ulysse Nardin’s marine heritage, and there have been nautical nods in Freak models before, so the thinking tracks. It’s going to take a seriously outgoing collector to wear this bad boy on the regular though.

That said I did love it for the few days I had it on and, while my own tastes have skewed a little more ostentatious over lockdown, I’m still a minimalist at heart.

On the wrist it feels fantastic. The strap is well-made, but it’s more the lightness of the 43mm, blacked-out titanium case that makes it comfortable. Having worn heftier versions of the Freak in the past, this is one of the few times I’m completely on board with the superlight metal.

The zebra-striped geometric mess of black and white might look like a magic eye picture, but it’s actually based on camouflage 113

Powering the whole thing is the latest generation UN-230 movement with its 72-hour power reserve. It’s hard to equate to anything else out there, given that it’s main function is being unique.

The bottom line is that dazzle camo is eye-catching to the point where it’s going to put off some watch collectors – but that doesn’t really matter. The Freak X is already eye-catching, already a mental piece of watchmaking and if there’s any watch out there that can pull off the kind of pattern to make a zebra see stripes, it’s Ulysse Nardin’s seminal iconoclast. £22,700, limited to 30 pieces, ulysse-nardin.com

WORDS:

SAM KESSLER

Futureproof

SOUND YOUR MUSIC TASTES MAY CHANGE WITH THE YEARS, BUT YOUR SOUND SYSTEM DOESN’T NEED TO

Over the last year, music has kept me sane. Working from home is mind-numbing, but at least it’s given me a chance to appreciate some classic vinyl I’d been neglecting in the corner. The funny thing is that despite gathering dust, they sound as good today as they did when I first bought them most of a decade ago. In short, they’re futureproof – so if like me you’ve revisited your collection, you probably want a system that’s as long-lasting as your vinyl.

Buying a sound-system however is like buying a fine watch. You could pay as little as possible, overlooking the shoddy quality and fleeting lifespan of cheap, mass-produced tat (built-in redundancy included). Or you can invest in something which will not only sound like bliss to the eardrums now, but will keep your vinyl sounding just as spectacular for years to come. No matter how much dust it collects.

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FRONT — futureproof sound

VITUS AUDIO REFERENCE Series RI-101 MkII

This may be the ‘entry’ level for Vitus Audio but don’t let that fool you; the Danish brand starts at incredible and goes from there. This second-generation integrated amplifier is just the beginning of what they do – and, fittingly enough, makes a serious starting point around which to build your own system. Sure, it’s a fantastic amp in and of itself, but the RI-101 comes into its own when you begin to add a phonostage, DAC or headamp – whatever your system needs.

For once, it’s also an amplifier that goes beyond the standard box filled with wires. The two distinctive orange frontages (a custom finish) separated by a sleek screen makes for a wonderfully eye-catching, yet no less ear-pleasing, core to your system. £15,640, vitusaudio.com

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For once, it’s also an amplifier that goes beyond the standard box filled with wires

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DAN D’AGOSTINO Momentum HD Preamplifier

A solid preamp does more to a system than you might imagine and this steampunkstyled number from industry vet Dan D’Agostino is virtually heavy metal. In his own brand the ex-Krell designer has taken his creations to the next level – and in his latest preamp Progression is more than just a name.

The base model is analogue, but can include an additional digital module. With a fully differential DAC to handle PCM signals up to 24 bit/284 Khz – in short, make the most of your digital output – the Progression Preamp offers the timeless warmth and depth of valve amps without the hassle. It’s a prestige piece of equipment in every sense. £47,998, dandagostino.com

JADIS

I88 Valve Amplifier

Just as vinyl, classic cars and indeed watches have survived – and thrived – despite new technology, valve amps too have that same retro, slightly archaic charm. Combined, of course, with the kind of New York style loft cool that comes with oversized filament lightbulbs.

Enter the I88 from French manufacturer Jadis. The amalgam of chrome and glowing glass is the brand’s latest integrated amp, complete with a new type of valve and the beautifully warm sound that’s kept the (some might say) outdated technology relevant today. £10,998, jadis-electronics.com/en

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TECHDAS

Air Force V Premium

High mass platters floating on cushions of air, silent vacuum pumps that ensure the vinyl clings to the platter, TechDAS turntables have distinguished themselves with enough superlatives to seem over the top.

They are however worth the hype – and rather worrying price tag.

The Air Force V thankfully is the most affordable of the bunch, which still means it’s a seriously premium player, but given the tech I’ve already run down, what do you expect? If the answer is an unparalleled level of background blackness and state-of-the-art analogue sound then you are correct. Well done! You deserve a new record player.

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£16,488, techdas.jp

The look is pure 60s, but the circuitry is completely up to date

LEAK

Stereo 130

The fact that Jimmi Hendrix owned a Leak amp should go some way to explaining the longevity of the British brand and the iconic status of the original Stereo 30. While the latest in that particular pedigree line might look like an almost inch-perfect replica, the 1 on the front makes a big difference.

Sure, the look is pure 60s, but the circuitry inside is completely up to date and ready for any input you care to put through it. In fact, it has the digital performance of a standalone D/A converted, all housed in the same, enduring design that Hendrix favoured. £699, leak-hifi.co.uk

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STEINWAY LYNGDORF

Lyngdorf Model D

If you’ve heard the Steinway name before, it’s not just a coincidence.

The concept behind Steinway Lyngdorf was originally to reproduce the sound of a Steinway & Sons piano so exactly that seasoned pianists couldn’t tell the difference. Ambitious barely cuts the surface and the philosophy has led to some stunning sound systems – case in point, the Model D. Steinway Lyngdorf’s flagship, freestanding dipole speaker is a masterstroke. It does away with the usual, acoustically constricting cabinet, instead firing sound front and back. The result is a soundstage imitating the naturalistic timbre of a grand piano, with no resonance or colouration. The fact that the speakers look stunning helps too, of course. £279,950, steinwaylyngdorf.com

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The result is a soundstage imitating the naturalistic timbre of a grand piano

KALISTA

DreamPlay ONE

Vinyl is better than CD. That’s a fact. But that doesn’t mean your CD collection should be sent to landfill quite yet, particularly when this phenomenal player from Kalista – the top-end echelon of French audio specialist Métronome Technologie - offers quality on par with a great record set-up.

In fact, looks wise it could pass for a downsized record player in its turntable style. Paired with a triangular base that screams retro futurism and you have a quirky yet impeccable way to make the most of your CDs. Kalista do also do vinyl players in the same aesthetic vein, but we’ve yet to come across a CD player quite like this. £44,500, kalista.audio

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FRANCO SERBLIN Accordo Speakers

Looking for a similar slice of Italian flair but with a far more impressive aural impact? Look no further than Franco Serblin.

If you’re seeing some similarities between these magnificent Accordo speakers and the Sonus Faber designs of old, you’re not crazy. Serblin founded Sonus Faber in the 80s before splitting off to do his own thing in the early 2000s. The man himself may have since passed, but his eponymous brand has all the same audiophile swagger.

To call these smaller Accordo speakers ‘bookshelf’ would be to do them a disservice, and not only because even the standmount is a work of art. They sonically punch well above their weight and, as Serblin himself puts it, have WA sound, a voice capable of reaching the depths of the soul”. Sheer poetry. £7,498, francoserblin.it

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They sonically punch well above their weight

DEVORE

0/96 Speakers

Rather than scour the world looking for the finest, hand-crafted audio fare around, we’re happy to lean on an expert. UK distributor Absolute Sounds’ Ten concept is just that: a collection of pieces from artisan makers you’ve probably never heard of.

In focus for this piece is NYC-based DeVore which has the kind of charm you just don’t get from proper factories, no matter how niche. They’re not just worth investing in for their character either; if you opt for a low-power valve amp like a true audiophile hipster, these are the ultimate partner thanks to their sensitivity. Well, what do you expect? DeVore is from Brooklyn. £13,998, ten-collection.com

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RUARK

R7 Radiogram

Get your rose-tinted glasses on for this one because it’s a nostalgic beauty. Evoking the radiograms of our grandparents era, this table-come-radio system is a throwback in the best possible way, right down to the RotoDial control on the top.

Even if you don’t listen to the radio all that often – honestly, we

don’t either – it works as a streaming device, high-spec CD player and one hell of a handsome sideboard, too. The entire thing is adjustable to your preferences, multi-room ready and, most importantly of all, offers sound that’s decidedly unvintage, proof that you can teach old dogs new tricks. If you built them from the ground up, anyway. £2,300, ruarkaudio.com

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A streaming device, high-spec CD player and one hell of a handsome sideboard

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NAIM

Uniti Atom Headphone Edition

Headphones are a necessity for anyone looking to keep the peace in their home while making the most of their music collection. Not everyone appreciates 60s Catholic Psychedelic Synth Folk as much as they should. So, rather than settle for plugging your over-ears into any old socket, instead go for something a little more specialist.

Based on Naim’s Uniti all-in-one systems, the new addition to the range forgoes amplifier slots for loudspeakers in favour of a headphone focused, streamlined approach. Speaking of streaming, its wireless capabilities are in-line with the rest of the range – i.e. exceptional, in large part thanks to the Naim app. Otherwise, it works as both an amplifier and pre-amp and is multi-room capable. There’s not much the Uniti Atom Headphone Edition can’t do. Within the realm of headphones, obviously. £2,399, naimaudio.com

SONUS FABER Lumina I

Speakers from this Italian studio have been likened to Stradivarius violins before in their breathtaking cabinetry blurring the lines between audio equipment and sculpture. Their latest bookshelf speakers though are a good deal more streamlined. The Lumina Is are still exquisite of course – this is still Sonus Faber - but the smaller, more compact scale makes them a little better suited to everyday life.

As ever the emphasis is on materials, with multilayer wood, leather and finishing worthy of a fine watch atelier.

They may be the most compact high-end passive loudspeakers in around, but they’re heavyweights in sound quality – just without the intense price tag of the full-sized, flagship sonus faber range.

In fact, they’re downright affordable.

BRING IT ALL TOGETHER

So far we have disparate pieces of equipment – various amps, speakers and players - that, while they work together nicely, take a bit of work to get up and running.

Well, unless that is you link them all together with a solid, intuitive smart home system a la integration specialists Crestron.

On the one hand it connects your entire home so that every speaker in the house can get the most out

£800, sonusfaber.com

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of your players, but perhaps more importantly for true audiophiles, it allows you to warm your high-end setup so that, by the time you sit down to listen, it’s just perfect. It also means that you don’t need a separate remote for each piece of equipment, which can be a godsend; we’ve all lost one of two of them in the past. As the system is fully updatable, you’ll never need to find them again either.

FIND OUT MORE AT CRESTRON.COM

FRONT — final frontier

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SEEING Words:

Sam Kessler

WHEN, HOW AND WHY MANKIND WILL COLONISE MARS

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After years of trial and error and more than a handful of exploded rockets, SpaceX has finally managed to return their Starship, the design around which their first mission to Mars is based, back to Earth intact. It might not sound like much, but it’s a big leap into making interplanetary travel a reality. It does however beg the question: why?

For all the SNL skits, Elon Musk has been serious about his mission of getting to Mars, funnelling billions into SpaceX, its various projects and the dream of colonising a new hunk of celestial rock. And honestly, who can blame him? California burns down each year, storms wrack huge parts of the world and even our mild British weather is starting to get full of itself.

Some Martian escapism could be just what we need.

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The return of the SpaceX Starship (above) to Earth is one giant leap towards future space travel and (right) a potential future Mars city imagined by SpaceX

FRONT — final frontier

Even if it’s not about leaving a burning planet, Mars could hold resources key not just to colonising that one red dot, but the entire solar system – and potentially beyond. According to The Mars Society, unlike the moon, ‘the Red Planet is rich in carbon, nitrogen, hydrogen, and oxygen, all in biologically readily accessible forms such as carbon dioxide gas, nitrogen gas, and water ice and permafrost.’ In short, a Martian colony is surprisingly viable.

It’s the final frontier before the next final frontier, and might even seem like an enticing prospect in a pioneering, Leo in The Revenant kind of way. Even getting there however isn’t all that easy.

Let’s say you get into space having left the Earth’s atmosphere. That leaves you with a solid seven-month journey across 140 million miles before you reach extra-terra firma. That’s a touch longer than trained astronauts currently stay aboard the International Space Station.

Mars could hold resources key not just to colonising that one red dot, but the entire solar system – and potentially beyond

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Ideally you can take that down to six months via the Hohmann Transfer Orbit – basically right place, right time – but that’s still a good deal of spacetime.

Still, it’s not all that bad. Download a few hundred TV series to the ship and you’re good to go. Sure you might lose muscle mass and bone density or develop a host of cancers from radiation in the vacuum of space, but the real issues start when you land.

The low atmospheric pressure on Mars means that, out in the (lack of) elements, your blood would boil in a few seconds. Not pleasant. If that doesn’t kill you, suffocation will as the atmosphere is almost entirely carbon dioxide, the thing we’d hypothetically be running away from on this planet. The cold front goes all the way down to 200 degrees F, but don’t worry, you’ll just as likely die from unblocked solar radiation. A perfect holiday destination.

In short, don’t leave the ship – which for some potential missions is the plan.

The earliest SpaceX-peditions will likely use their landed ship as a base of operations. It has the life support systems necessary to keep the crew warm and safe and should be stocked

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With care and heating, a self-sustaining, ecofriendly habitat could be a reality. Provided you like kale. Kale does really well on Mars AI SpaceFactory’s design for a Mars surface habitat (opposite, top) and how an underground habitat might look (below) if ZA Architects win the contract

with plenty of supplies. From there, you can get to the business of making things better for the next crew to follow you.

Or perhaps there’s the Mars Society’s aptly-named Mars Direct plan. Their idea is to build starships more like habitats that, when they arrive, just become part of the burgeoning Martian capital, an idea which cuts costs and is apparently achievable with current technology. Just don’t expect a trip home any time soon.

Otherwise, modular structures are the norm amongst architects, which does allow for 3D printed, easily-made shelters, such as AI Space Factory’s robot-built eggs made using Martian rocks, which took top prize in NASA’s architectural challenge.

The easiest solution however might simply be to head underground. There have been a few concepts for life under the Martian soil, including this one from ZA Architects, and indeed, it’s the main reason Musk set up his Boring Company alongside SpaceX. The ground is insulating, acting as a natural barrier to radiation and has that whole mole person vibe we’ve all been looking for in life. Sun-seekers need not apply.

Fortunately, however, resupplying might not be the hardest thing in the world. The mostly carbon dioxide atmosphere is perfect for plants, provided they can survive the cold.

Water – albeit frozen – is around and the soil is thought to have the right nutrients for vegetation to grow. With care and heating, a self-sustaining, eco-friendly habitat could be a reality.

Provided you like kale. Kale does really well on Mars, according to plant ecologist Wieger Wamelink. In fact, better than here on Earth.

So, the first colonies will be super underground with plenty of kale smoothies – it just needs a microbrewery specialising in red ales and you have a hipster paradise. In theory self-sufficiency will be helped along by regular drops of new colonists and tech from the homeworld and with

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each successive trip, life on the new planet will get slightly easier.

As a side note, one thing that won’t be easier is walking. Mars is roughly half the size of the Earth and has less than 40% of the gravity, and simulations by the European Space Agency have indicated that you’ll go about half the walking speed. That level of gravity also means that you really can’t afford to skip leg day if you want to preserve your muscle mass.

So just how many people will we need to send? According to Jean-Marc Salotti at the Bordeaux Institut National Polytechnique, the answer is a nice, round 110. That’s the minimum number needed to maintain self-sufficiency and not rely on supply drops, provided of course that everyone shares resources, accepts awful conditions and generally has an awful time of it.

Unfortunately for the colonials of the future, we are still a long way away from that number. NASA’s current frontrunning mission to Mars is the Artemis Program, which will launch from the Moon in the late 2030s. Each mission would send a handful of people at a time, meaning somewhere in the region of 20-25 missions would be needed to get to the 110.

SpaceX on the other hand is far, far more optimistic. Not only is the company aiming at a 2026 launch (a bit of a pushback from their 2022 hopes), their Starship is designed to transport 100 people in one go. Granted they have more funding and direction than NASA, but that’s a worryingly short space of time before SpaceX will be sending real, living people to the Red Planet.

Could it work? Time will tell. Just don’t expect me to get on the Starship unless Musk is on the ramp up before me. In fact, between losing all muscle mass getting there, rolling a die between freezing, radiation poisoning or literally boiling and, having survived, spending years underground, I’m ok thanks.

The Earth may be in getting harsher, but at least it’s not Mars.

A ca leath boot for s

CULTURE — gin palace

COMTE DE GRASSE NO 44°N Essentially, this is inspired by how perfumes are made, but they decided to make gin instead. It may sound high-tech and fancy, but in fact this method is incredibly sustainable and efficient which can only add to the intrigue of what is inside the bottle. The list of botanicals is vast, with cade (a species of juniper), verbena, everlasting (a golden flower), horse parsley, samphire, lavender, mimosa, grapefruit, patchouli and Sichuan pepper to name just a few. In summary, modern distilling methods meet cutting edge perfume extraction to create a fusion of flavours that will play with your senses. They did their homework and it shows. Bonus points if you wear it as a perfume (please don’t). £75 from Master of Malt

BEAUFORT GIN Here’s something a little bit different and for all the right reasons. Inspired by Heston Blumenthal, Beaufort Spirit have created a ‘whisky barrel’ smoked water as part of their Smoked Sipping Gin. Szechuan pepper, pink pepper and citrus oils combine once poured to give the illusion of gunpowder smouldering in the glass. At 57% this gin certainly passes the ‘gunpowder’ test and has taken its place as the new ‘big smoke’ in town. Definitely one to discover if you like sipping gins. £40 from Master of Malt

Best Gins for the Summer The

Words: Aidy Smith

We’ve nearly made it! In just a few short weeks this cloud, rain and cold that’s been looming above will be replaced by beaming rays of sunshine. That can only mean one thing - it’s time to top up the gin collection. In this issue we celebrate some of the best gins on the market helping you create everything from that quintessential G&T to your stunning sours and Bondworthy martinis. Cheers!

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WILDCAT GIN Who would have thought, the same company that creates world-class The Dalmore also produces a gin! Based on the scandalous tales of Captain Dudley Bradstreet who was determined to find a way around the banishing of gin in the early 1700s, this wonder is packed full of personality. Cat’s claw is the wondrous ingredient that binds everything together, a woody vine found in the tropical jungles of South and Central America. This is the perfect gin for mixing up some quality cocktails where you want to be able to get the nuances of the actual gin itself. £23 from The Bottle Club

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MIRABEAU PROVENCE ROSÉ GIN When it comes to rosé my top choice for quality and value is always Mirabeau, which made me pretty god damn excited when they announced they were making a gin. While the base botanicals consist of juniper, citrus, orris root, angelica root and coriander, it’s the Provençal twist containing a variety of herbs such as bay, thyme and rosemary alongside the neutral grape spirit and base distillate of Mirabeau Classic Rosé that really makes this gin stand out from the crowd. The result is a fruity and textured gin with lemon, coriander and citrus bursting with floral notes, rose petals and lavender.

The story ends on a final note as those herbs add an extra kick of character to the blend. £36 from Majestic

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Award-winning gin blended with CBD that is sourced from hemp grown within the fertile hills of Colorado

This is the perfect gin for mixing up some quality cocktails where you want to be able to get the nuances of the actual gin itself

SILENT POOL COLORADO HIGH CBD Demand for quality CBD has taken off over the past year, so it was only a matter of time before two trending categories came together. We’re talking award-winning gin blended with CBD that is sourced from hemp grown within the fertile hills and fresh air of the Colorado Rockies. Each 50cl bottle is packed full of 200mg of Green Stem cannabidiol (much higher than other CBD drinks currently on the market). This enables the drinker to benefit from a variety of therapeutic properties such as relieving muscle pain and anxiety to a helping them have a more restful night’s sleep. Simply mix with your favourite tonic to get the most out of it. The oil has a subtle bitterness kind of like grapefruit that works perfectly alongside the citrus botanicals in the gin. Hey, I’ll try anything once thing is, you’ll probably come back for more. £65 from Silent Pool Distillery

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AN DÚLAMÁN SANTA ANA Say hello to Ireland’s first Navy Strength gin. Barrel aged and bottled at 57% ABV, there’s only four to five batches of this stunner released each year. It derives from Sliabh Liag Distillery, which in my opinion is one to absolutely be aware of for so many different reasons. They take their signature gin before ageing it in Rioja wine casks for up to 12 weeks and the result is a golden rose liquid with complex maritime notes and soft red berries with a warming orangey finish.

Makes for an incredible martini with a twist. £45 from Master of Malt

IN THE WELSH WIND PALO CORTADO LIMITED EDITION

WHITLEY NEIL RHUBARB & GINGER

It’s not just whiskies that can benefit from a little cask ageing.

This limited edition bottling from the ever patriotic distillers at In the Welsh Wind takes their signature award-wining recipe and rests it in casks originally used for Fino or Amontillado sherries.

The result is a bronze liquid that underpins the cask’s wood spice and stone fruit with botanical warmth. It’s like a sip of the exotic, and just as limited given the distillery’s only aged 400 litres of it.

It’s an experiment that’s paid off though, so here’s hoping there are a few more variants – bourbon maybe? – in the future. £45 from In the Welsh Wind

This is one of the first gins I fell in love with.

If you’re looking for a gin packed full of flavour that is equally as good when it comes to value for money, look no further.

Now, I did grow up in Yorkshire so I may be a little bias to anything with rhubarb in it, but this really is the perfect addition to a thirst-quenching G&T on those warm summer evenings. Just remember to fill your ice to the top of the glass - your first sip should be as cool as your last! £20 from Sainsbury’s

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They take their signature gin before ageing it in Rioja wine casks for up to 12 weeks

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CULTURE — whisky galore

LONGMORN

25 YEAR OLD CASK STRENGTH

edit:

When Chivas decided to launch their Secret Speyside collection, everyone got pretty excited. Aged for 25 years in a combination of American oak, hogsheads and butts, the Speyside dream knocks out sweet fruity characters alongside a distinct chocolate and spice. Given this is a cask strength, it’s one for those who like it on the heavier side or are perfectly happy adding a touch of water to bring out more flavours. Not only is it quite simply divine, it’s the oldest single malt expression to have been released from Longmorn as part of the Secret Speyside Collection. Ripe juicy plums, sultanas and cinnamon jump out on the nose with sweet vanilla spice, satsuma rind peel, rich sultanas and chocolate on the palate.

53% ABV £400 from Master of Malt

AIDY SMITH

Editor’s picks A 25-YEAR TRIO OF SCOTCH We all know choosing your favourite scotch is like choosing your favourite child. So, I’ve decided to give you three 25-year expressions that have left a long-lasting impression on my heart and soul.

THE DALMORE 25 YEAR OLD

A pinnacle of a whisky, words themselves are difficult to piece together based on just how sensational this liquid is.

The Dalmore is one of the most renowned collections on the planet and only 3,000 bottles of the 25-year are released each year. Each one matured in a variety of American white oak ex-bourbon casks alongside exclusive aged tawny port pipes and casks which have held 30 year old Matulsalem oloroso sherry. A quarter century of extremely patient ageing paves way to an unquestionable character, complexity and emotion that sings with every sip. With only the finest wood being used, the flavours could not be more magical.

Burnt toffee, tobacco and fruitcake with fruit pastilles, dark chocolate and a dried candied apricot. Dense, sweet, dry, with treacle toffee and freshly cut cacao. And the finish? It just doesn’t end. 42% ABV £875 from The Whisky Shop

BOWMORE

25 YEAR OLD Don’t you just love it when a whisky gives you the perfect balance of sweet and peat smoke? Well that’s exactly what you can expect here.

Bowmore has been a go-to name for as long as I can remember and their older age statements are a total treat. Each delicious drop of this balanced malt sensation has been matured for 25 years in North American bourbon and Spanish sherry casks. Intense sherry erupts from your glass with stewed dark fruits and that signature Bowmore smoke. Take your sip and it’s the dark toffee and treacle tart, walnut and hazelnut crumb and sweet peaty smoke that just jumps out on the long finish. 43% ABV. £325 from Master of Malt

THE PERFECT WHISKY PAIRING?

Cartografie Chocolates

Hand crafted with cocoa sourced directly (and ethically) from top cacao farmers. Head Chocolatier, Kae Shibata is no stranger to this world, having spent much of her career in some of London’s most reputed five-star hotel restaurants. Each chocolate celebrates the unique expression of region, couvertures and cocoa bean varieties making them an experience in their own right. With their elegance and refined taste, these are without question the best chocolates I’ve tasted and the perfect pairing for a cheeky dram.

Ranging from £7 at cartografiechocolate.com

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EDITED BY MICHAEL SONSINO

RESTAURANT &BAR

© Ben Carpenter

NEWS ↑ HARRY’S BAR

30-34 James Street – W1U 1ER While Harry’s Bar might be a staple of fine Italian cuisine in the West End with its 1950s inspired surroundings, they’re changing things up this summer season just in

It will specialise in a fusion of French and East Asian cuisine

Now that restrictions on hospitality in London are starting to be lifted, a question on everybody’s mind is, where am I going to go and eat first? It’s a tricky decision. Should you beeline to your local to check out the new, post-lockdown menu? Or perhaps you should try a brand new place that’s opening its doors for the first time?

In order to set your 2021 culinary journey off on the right foot we’ve gathered together some of the most exciting restaurants and bars, both new and familiar, that can’t wait to welcome you back into London’s dining scene.

time for reopening. Their Sicilian Summer themed menu will be accompanied by a redecoration of the restaurant front, bringing a slice of southern Italy to London’s streets. On the menu there’s going to be a refreshing array of cocktails inspired by Villa Ascenti Gin, including the Summer Nights and Mandorla Martini, which promise to be the perfect summer tipples. harrys-bar.co.uk

↓ BAR DES PRÉS

16 Albemarle Street, W1S 4HW Cyril Lignac is perhaps the most famous French celebrity chef of the modern era, hosting French versions of the TV shows Jamie’s Kitchen and The Great British Bake Off called Oui, Chef! and La Meilleur Pâtissier. After establishing a Michelin starred restaurant in Paris that closed last year, he has turned his attention to London with a new and updated version of his Paris eatery in Mayfair. It will specialise in a fusion of French and East Asian cuisine, including Madras curried crab. bardespres.com

↓ NUSR-ET STEAKHOUSE

101 Knightsbridge – SW1X 7RN While the rise of the internet meme chef should perhaps be taken with a pinch of salt there’s no denying that Turkish restauranteur Nusret Gökçe can create a stir. Better known as his moniker Salt Bae, he quickly rose to stardom with his unorthodox and theatrical approach to slicing, seasoning and serving large tranches of meat. He’s opened outposts everywhere from Abu Dhabi to Boston, with the new London steakhouse set to be the latest jewel in his crown, nestled inside The Park Tower hotel in Knightsbridge. nusr-et.com.tr

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CULTURE — food & drink

He is bringing a seasonal focus to the tasting menu with a versatile array of food that changes with the times, featuring Dorset lamb and native lobster

↓ ORMER MAYFAIR

7-12 Half Moon Street, W1J 7BH Following a year of trials, Ormer in Mayfair (one of the most established luxury venues) is setting up for their reopening with a new executive chef.

The Ormer has drafted Sofian Msetfi into the position, a chef who has worked in multiple Michelin star restaurants including Adare Manor in Ireland. He is bringing a seasonal focus to the tasting menu with a versatile array of food that changes with the times, featuring Dorset lamb and native lobster among many others. flemings-mayfair.co.uk

↑ HERITAGE DULWICH

101 Rosendale Road, SE21 8EZ This wouldn’t be a round up of London dining without at least one amazing curry place and the new Heritage Dulwich more than ticks the box. The kitchen will be overseen by Chef Dayashankar Sharma, a man with over 30 years of experience in critically acclaimed Indian restaurants in the UK and India. On his menu is a wide range of regional dishes from India including northern Dhaba wala murgh and southern Nariyalwala jhinga and Sarsebata maach – each dish promising a combination of traditional cooking techniques and modern flavours. heritagedulwich.co.uk

← SABINE

10 Godliman St, EC4V 5AJ If you’re after a cocktail and light bite rather than a full-on dining experience, you can’t go wrong with Sabine, a brand-new rooftop bar with views overlooking St Paul’s Cathedral. With a strong botanical theme, it’s a stylish oasis hidden away on the skyline, perched on top of the Leonardo Royal London St Paul’s hotel. As befits its botanical theme, the snacks and drinks on offer will be seasonal, making for a versatile menu that changes throughout the year. sabinelondon.co.uk

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CULTURE — food & drink

→ IMAD’S SYRIAN KITCHEN

Top Floor, Kingly Court, Carnaby St, W1B 5PW London is one of the top multi-cultural centres of the world and nowhere exemplifies that better than Imad’s Syrian Kitchen. Imad ran four successful restaurants in Damascus before violence destroyed them – forcing him to flee to the UK as a refugee. After much anticipation he is finally making his London restaurant debut. It’s a story of resilience and great food and you can expect to find plenty of Middle Eastern classics like falafel and halloumi at his kitchen on Carnaby Street. imadssyriankitchen.co.uk

← HOT STONE FITZROVIA 3 Windmill Street, W1T 2HY

Hot Stone is branching out with a second restaurant in the Fitzrovia area of London. It’s one of the most anticipated openings in recent times with demand for tables already high, and with good reason. It is one of only eight restaurants in London that serves certified Kobe beef, alongside its other Japanese delicacies including wagyu, sushi and sashimi. Going here for their fusion of modern and traditional cooking techniques as your first meal out after lockdown would not be a mistake. hotstonelondon.com

It is one of only eight restaurants in London that serves certified Kobe beef, alongside its other Japanese delicacies including wagyu, sushi and sashimi

→ LOS MOCHIS

2 Farmer Street, W8 7SN Something that has been missing from the past year has been the opportunity to experiment and one of the most interesting new fusion restaurants opening is Los Mochis, a JapaneseMexican eatery whose influences come from both sides of the Pacific. The menu features Asian twists on Mexican classics with dishes like Trailer Park KFC – Korean fried chicken and Gangster Tacos. All set within a dining room with Mexican design enhanced by fine Japanese finishing. It promises to be an atmospheric and interesting culinary experience. losmochis.co.uk

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CULTURE — unsung heroes

Words:

Ken Kessler

UNSUNG VINTAGE HEROES:

JAEGER-LECOULTRE FUTUREMATIC It was billed as the world’s first 100% automatic watch and featured the often-underappreciated power reserve complication that deserves some retrospective acclaim, and maybe even a commemorative reissue

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Necessity being the mother of invention, or in this case inclusion, there’s a reason why Jaeger-LeCoultre once made a big deal out of the often-underappreciated complication called the ‘power reserve’. For those unfamiliar with this function, it’s a display which tells you how much power is left on a watch’s winding, whether the timepiece is manual or automatic, letting you know when it will stop. While clearly more useful on manually-wound watches because they don’t refresh themselves as does an automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Futurematic had another reason showing the reserve on the dial.

To grasp why power reserve occupied a prominent space at the nine o’clock position, and to appreciate why this watch was such a shocker when it was launched circa 1953, look at the images: no winding crown. 68 years ago, this was uncommon, the crown of the Futurematic being needed only to set the time and thus set in the caseback. That’s because in this watch – billed by the manufacturer as the world’s first ‘100% automatic watch’ – the mainspring couldn’t be wound from the crown. To set it in motion, you gave it a couple of shakes. Once ticking, it went into self-winding mode.

Futurematics were powered by four shock-resistant movements during the range’s lifetime, Calibres 497 (1951), 827 (1953), 817 (1956) and ultimately 837 (1958). All were fitted with an oversized, antimagnetic balance wheel, a regulator for the balance spring and a unique feature to prevent over-winding. Cleverness extended to the prevention of complete unwinding: the watch started running as soon as it was put on the wrist.

Earning a strong following in the USA, where the dials said ‘LeCoultre’ minus the ‘Jaeger’ because of import tariffs of the era, the Futurematic enjoyed a long production period, so there is a wide range of variants from which to choose. Of particular interest are the two dial styles, early models featuring a small seconds at three o’clock and power reserve at nine o’clock, both with hand indication. The later Futurematic Porthole edition replaced the hands with rotating discs: the power reserve indicator changed colour from red or blue for high reserve to white for low, while seconds were shown with an arrow.

Adding to the variety are assorted dial colours and case materials, fancy lug shapes and other differences between the US-sourced and European examples. Prices range from £1,000 for a basic model in good order to £6,000+ for solid-gold-cased variants. And there’s no denying the bar-banter appeal of an absent crown.

Sources vary, but the generally accepted dates of manufacture were 1953-1959, with development beginning in 1951. Looking to the future, with the 70th anniversary only two years away, JaegerLeCoultre has just enough time to plan for a commemorative reissue of 1953 examples.

Cleverness extended to the prevention of complete unwinding: the watch started running as soon as it was put on the wrist A 1953 poster for the JaegerLeCoultre Futurematic (top) advertising ‘the first automatic watch without winding crown’ and (left) the watch in question showcasing the power reserve in the the prominent nine o’clock position

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IN FOCUS AN INSIGHT INTO THREE FASCINATING BRANDS Edited By

SAM KESSLER

Zannetti, Baltic and Stewart Dawson

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ZANNETTI When Italian artisanry and fine watchmaking collide, thoughts instantly turn to the horological cradle of Florence, the beautiful city previously home to the likes of Panerai and Anonimo. But that’s certainly not the only region of Italy to house a watchmaker or two worth a serious collector’s time, particularly if your wristwear tastes venture into more artistic territory.

Situated in workshops in the heart of Rome, Zannetti’s approach to watchmaking is a different one than most, and one that has been overseen by three generations of the family.

Originally established by master goldsmith Carmine Zannetti, the brand was originally an exercise in technical excellence and intricate watchmaking, the sort a specialist in precious metal would design. From there it passed to the hands of Mario Zannetti, a fine arts professor and artist in his own right, who introduced a more artistic, geometric style to the creations of his father.

Now, with Ricardo Zannetti, grandson of Carmine, at the helm, the eponymous watch brand is broadening their scope, using their fine balance of artistry and fine watchmaking as a launchpad to bring Italian creativity to the wider world.

And creative is right. While most brands use artistry as a catchall term for hand crafts and artisan outlooks, Zannetti take it a touch more literally. Even from the genesis of an idea, each of their watches is sketched and designed by hand, a prelude to the inevitable artistic bent of the dials: engraving, micropainting and exquisite stone setting are all par for the course in Zannetti’s studios.

Perhaps the most over the top of all of them is the art of Champlevè, a relatively new string to the brand’s bow but one of the most traditionally ornate forms of fine finishing in watchmaking. The technique consists of creating an outline from gold wire then filling it with different colours of enamel.

The result is a kind of enamel micromosaic that has incredible depth – fitting for the Carp depicted on Zannetti’s Gladiatore model.

The Carp though is as much a suggestion as a readily available watch. Due to the hand-finished nature of Zannetti timepieces, personalisation is a huge part of what the brand does. If you have something specific you’d like rendered in Champlevè, micropainting or otherwise, then it’s well within their remit.

Of course, all this talk of artistic techniques is fine, but if the watches underneath aren’t up to scratch then why would you wear it? Why wouldn’t you just go for a piece of jewellery instead?

It’s a fine balance and the reason Zannetti rely on Swiss movements to equip their watches. The

Each Zannetti watch is sketched and designed by hand to create a piece that straddles artistry and fine watchmaking

brand’s skills lie in handcrafts rather than the performance oriented, technical requirements of a calibre. And when you can get a movement as solidly made as an ETA, it makes sense to let the Swiss do what they do best – at least in most cases.

Outside of the movement, many of Zannetti’s timepieces do have impressive specs sheets. The Sucba for example, can survive depths of 550m, making it a serious piece of diving equipment, despite using finishing techniques nobody in their right mind would call ‘utilitarian’. The Repeater leverages one of the highest of high complications there is, making it a work of art both inside and out.

The bottom line however is this: Zannetti is not a watchmaker for lovers of stripped back tool watches or retro charm. Instead, they’re for the kind of collectors that dream of nothing more than wearing a piece of art on the wrist. If there’s any more definitive ‘art watch’ out there, we’ve yet to find it.

Find out more at zannetti.com

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BALTIC The shores of the Baltic Sea are some of the most culturally diverse around, bridging the gap between Scandinavia, eastern Europe and Russia. Something that French watchmaking brand Baltic capture with their range of timepieces that combine elements from across the globe in sleek, vintage designs.

The name Baltic is also a reference to the brand founder’s father, who grew up on the northern coast of Poland where he began a watch collection, which he documented with immaculate notes. When he passed away the notes were inherited by Etienne Malec who became captivated by the records of a father he barely knew. After 15 years, Etienne took the plunge and decided to create his own watch brand inspired by the stories and watches in his father’s collection.

Out of this dedication and passion came the first Baltic timepiece, which has now expanded into a whole range of vintage divers and tool watches. In recent years, it’s the Aquascaphe that’s been leading the charge, an accessible diver with a satisfying bezel and iconic 1960s to 70s skindiver aesthetic.

All Baltic watches are available only through direct-to-consumer sales removing some of the traditional industry and retail costs and allowing the savings to be passed on to their customers. Instead, they are highly active on social media with a thriving community on Facebook and Instagram – they welcome you to join the conversation and ask any questions you might have.

Another part of their ethos is transparency, being open about the parts they use in their timepieces and where they are sourced. As I mentioned earlier, Baltic timepieces are truly global in their production, with cases and movements from Hong Kong, straps from France and additional accessories from Italy.

Once each aspect has been manufactured, they are then sent to the Baltic atelier in France for assembly and adjustment.

A timepiece that encapsulates all the ideals of Baltic is the Aquascaphe GMT. It has a stainless steel case with a 39mm diameter that compliments the black, glossy dial. The large, lume-filled, circular indices follow the vintage design principles of classic divers. The look is completed by a date window at the six o’clock position, that felt like it was missing on previous Aquascaphes, mirrored at 12 o’clock by… the number 12.

The standout feature, however, is the combination of the bi-colour day/night bezel ring, which is available in combinations of blue with orange, green and grey. The secondary colour is then adopted by the GMT hand and the Aquascaphe inscription, providing a welcome flash of colour on the otherwise plain dial.

The Aquascaphe GMT (above) is an accessible diver with a cool mid-century aesthetic, but it’s the bi-colour day/night bezel ring that really catches the eye against the plain dial

The Aquascaphe is accessible, stylish and designed to give the wearer the best value for money Housed inside is the Swiss Soprod C125 movement, a departure (and improvement) from Baltic’s previous Miyota calibres. It has a 42-hour power reserve, which is solid for its price range of approximately £800. And, of course, it has a diving watch regulation 100m water resistance.

The Aquascaphe GMT is accessible, stylish and designed to give the wearer the best value for money and wearing experience. Then again, the same thing can be said about almost any Baltic timepiece – and that’s their strength.

Find out more at baltic-watches.com

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STEWART DAWSON VOYAGER What is the most useful complication in watchmaking? It’s a question that’s long kept us up at night, tossing and turning trying to figure it out.

Could it be the chronograph? Well unless you’re a personal trainer or racing team, you probably don’t need a stopwatch on a regular basis. A date?

Honestly, if you’ve lost track of the day that badly, a watch probably isn’t going to help. A moon phase?

You have to be joking.

No, we’d posit that the most useful complication around is the humble GMT function. At the moment most of us aren’t travelling across time zones, but in this wonderful world of cross-continental Zoom calls, keeping track of the time in other countries is pretty vital.

Most of the time that means a GMT function integrated into the movement, generally in the form of a second hour hand. But that’s not the most elegant way of doing it. Rather than tinker with the bones of the movement, all you really need to do is add a rotating bezel – which is precisely what Stewart Dawson have done with their colourfully pared-back Voyager.

The Voyager, as the name suggests, is a travel watch, but in its simplest format. That means it keeps track of just two time zones which, to be honest, is all you really need when you’re actually jet-setting around the globe at some point in the hopefully not-toodistant future. One to track local time, one to track home time.

It does so by combining a standard three-hand watch with a rotating, 12-hour bezel. All you need to do to shift between timezones is to rotate it however many hours are necessary. No fiddling with the crown, no delicate calculations, just a simple, effective method to keep track of two time zones.

Because of that simplicity, Stewart Dawson have been able to have a bit of fun with the design.

Primarily, that’s through colour as the Voyager is available in black, royal blue, fire truck red and a green that can only have its roots in the Amazon.

They’re almost as eye-catching as they are affordable – which is to say incredibly so.

Each watch is equipped with a solid Japanese movement, less prestigious than Swiss but no less well-made. Squared away in a solid case with an equally solid 300m water resistance, it’s a lot of watch for the €650 – around £550 – it’ll set you back.

In fact, they’re a serious value proposition, offering not just a reliable movement and a wellbuilt case, but the kind of quality across the board

The colourful pared-back Voyager is available in a choice of colour combinations; black, royal blue, fire truck red and an Amazonian green

They’re almost as eye-catching as they are affordable – which is to say incredibly so you’d expect from a far pricier timepiece. Add in its colourful good looks and you have a watch well worth trying out.

Of the quartet, our favourite is most definitely the green. Compared to the usual dark, emerald colours you usually find on a diver, it’s a breath of fresh air, the kind of dial that gets noticed for all the right reasons. If you’re still looking for a great, everyday summer watch then this might just be it.

Find out more at stewartdawson.com

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MICROBRAND

CORNER From Avant Garde design to accessible haute horology, this is the latest and greatest from the creative world of microbrand watchmaking

THE SPECS

• 40mm stainless steel or bronze case with 200m water resistance • MD-1 calibre automatic movement • From $650 (approx. £460), tsaobaltimore.com

Tsao

Baltimore Legacy

Adding yet another intriguing value proposition to the microbrand melting pot stateside, the latest from Maryland-based Tsao Baltimore is, in their own words, an accessible heirloom piece. It certainly has the style credentials down with a dual crown, compressor adjacent look finished with some absolutely stunning sandwich dials, including this royal blue fume number. Each colour is available in steel or bronze, with a GMT or without.

That might sound like an overly broad selection except that each is limited to just 75 pieces. Yeah, this is one you’ll want to preorder. tsaobaltimore.com

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Fine Watches Berlin VALENTINA Red

Following the success of their striking, royal coloured charity-slanted timepiece, the VALENTINA Blue, Fine Watches Berlin are ensuring that lightning strikes twice, this time with an eyecatching red edition. Based on the German brand’s signature Teufelsberg model with its asymmetrical small seconds subdial, the combination of red, white and blue is matched by the contrast-stitch strap. It’s bright, bold and, if that weren’t enough, 15% of the proceeds of each watch goes to Stiftung Valentina, a foundation for critically ill children. How could you say no? finewatches.berlin

THE SPECS

• 40.5mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Miyota cal. 8218 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve • € 698 (approx. £600), limited to 100 pieces, finewatches.berlin

Zinvo

Rival Marine Luxury sports watches are generally on the pricey side, but just because a steel watch has an integrated bracelet doesn’t mean it should be inaccessible. The Rival, courtesy of microbrand Zinvo, offers a design inspired by the likes of Gerald Genta but, thanks to quartz movements, without the prohibitive price tag.

The Rival Marine, with its impeccably cool and unusually finished blue dial, is the standout of the lot.

There are few watches in this price range that have style credentials this solid. zinvowatches.com THE SPECS • 42mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Quartz movement • $249 (Approx. £180), zinvowatches.com

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BACK — microbrand corner

Valimor Caliburnus II

Rather than the retro charm of the 60s or the vintage era of the 50s, Valimor instead takes their design cues from the Medieval period – hence the Arthurian inspirations behind their new Caliburnus II. Combining a dragon scale bezel with dials made from various colours of synthetic opal or mother-of-pearl, the various Caliburnus II references are as incredible as they are unusual. The standout is the Flame Opal – red, of course – which suits the brand’s aged stainless steel perfectly for an ancient take on modern microbrand watchmaking. valimor.com THE SPECS • 42mm aged stainless steel case with 50m water resistance • Miyota 8315 automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve • From €389 (approx.£335), valimor.com

DWISS M3

It takes some cojones for a microbrand to dive headlong into the arena of luxury sports watches but then that’s something that DWISS have never exactly lacked. The M3, with the brand’s signature displaced hours, a mesmeric multi-level dial and a case that veers close enough to the Nautilus to make it instantly-recognisable.

There are three colour options to choose from in the M3 collection, all with the same steel case. One version has an aquatic blue dial, another is black, and the final version is white. All the design choices for the M3 were made in collaboration with DWISS’s Watch Design Club, an exclusive group of 100 members that were consulted throughout the timepiece’s 12-month development. Each member will be given one of the watches that they helped bring to fruition.

As with all DWISS watches, this is an extremely limited-edition timepiece with THE SPECS • 42mm stainless steel only 500 of the models being made ever. case with 200m water Despite its exclusivity it’s very accessible at resistance $1,390 or $1,590 (approx. £990/£1,130) • ETA 2824-2 Elabore automatic movement with depending on if you choose the rubber 42-hour power reserve strap or metal bracelet. If you want one, • From $1,390 (approx. £990), dwiss.com you’ll have to act fast. dwiss.com

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oracle insights

McLaren – Retro Colours Return O r a c le

INSIGHTS WHAT’S ON OUR SHOPPING LIST AND WHY

CHARLES MARTIN WATCH COMPANY Luxury watches are long term investments, often multi-generational in nature and treasured family heirlooms, which means keeping them in tip-top condition is important as it will not only keep them looking great but increase their longevity. The Charles Martin Watch Company in Staffordshire specialise in giving pre-owned luxury watches the care they deserve, from repairs and services to finding them new homes. They are an accredited service centre for Omega, Longines, Rado and Tissot, with expertise in many other brands too. charlesmartinwatchcompany.com

LOCH LOMOND WHISKIES – 45 YEAR MALT Loch Lomond Whiskies has released one of their rarest expressions to date. Only 200 bottles of the premium 45 year single malt will be distilled as part of their Remarkable Stills Series in celebration of the unique straight neck stills. As for taste, the Loch Lomond 45 Year Old showcases flavours of red apple, pear, tropical fruits and honey. The finish is long and presents waves of warming cinnamon spice and tart green fruits. £3,450, more information at lochlomondwhiskies.com

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McLaren’s in-house personalisation team, MSO, has unveiled a new paint customisation for the 720S in retro Gulf colours. The light blue and orange are evocative of the partnership between McLaren and Gulf Oil that began in the days of team founder Bruce McLaren and also appeared on the F1 cars at the Monaco Grand Prix in May. A limited number of 720S owners can request the livery, although the process takes 20 days of hand painting.

Find out more at mclaren.com

Bistrot Pierre – Bistrot At Home One of the unexpected benefits from lockdown has been the at home services many top restaurants started offering.

Bistrot Pierre’s range of finish at home boxes have been so popular that they are being continued despite the easing of restrictions, so you can continue enjoying high quality French meals from your own kitchen. In fact, Bistrot at Home has launched three new boxes: celebration, steak and breakfast.

Prices from £35 for a three course meal for two, from bistrotathome.co.uk

oracle insights

Billy Ruffian – Boat Shoe Boat shoes are usually relegated to the role of weekend wear, however the stylish offerings from Billy Ruffian are too cool to dismiss and could easily be your daily choice this summer. The Leanders combine a one-piece lace design with oiled leather in a variety of colours while the Lulworths add a loafer style slip on. Both come with a natural siped rubber sole, a hallmark of boat shoes that helps to provide seaworthy grip.

Leander and Lulworth £120, from billyruffianshoes.co.uk

WEBER – GENESIS II BARBEQUE The British summer isn’t always conducive to barbeques so when, eventually, the sun breaks through the clouds, burnt burgers and undercooked sausages are the absolute worst.

Weber Barbeques has spent 70 years perfecting barbeque technology and their new Genesis II line is fully Wi-Fi connective and pairs with an app on your phone. It not only tells you when your burgers are cooked, but when to flip them and the perfect serving temperature, alongside numerous other functions.

Genesis II, approximately £1,000£1,900 depending on specification, from weber.com

DOOLEY & ROSTRON – SIGNATURE SUITS Dooley & Rostron are a tailoring company based in Manchester that offer a wide range of services. At the top of the list has to be their Bespoke Shirt Service where you work alongside their finest tailors to create a unique shirt inspired by your style.

They also offer a selection of ready to wear collections such as this navy blue suit that combines wool, linen and silk for a summery outfit that is a wardrobe essential.

Signature Navy Suit, £725 from dooleyandrostron.com

THE ARX DEFENDER

Little Black Hat Gallery While exhibitions and displays are starting to open again, online galleries are still one of the best ways to view art from the comfort of your own home. The Little Black Hat Gallery is an online showcase of the work of Russian-born British artist Kat Herrgott Penter, where her works are also available for purchase.

Kat’s style is bold, with a strong focus on beauty and experience, the artwork ‘Coffee in Paris’ capturing the sumptuous romance of the city.

You can view her work at littleblackhatgallery.com

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ARX is a gallery and auction house specialising in digital artwork and NFTs, with multiple big ticket auctions that you can get involved in like the recent sale of ‘Race Against Time’ a 1/1 production by the British artist MRE. They are currently running an open limited edition drop of The ARX Defender, an NFT depicting a space age Overfinch Defender vehicle on an alien planet where adventurers seek to mine physical Ethereum – the cryptocurrency which can be used to purchase the artwork. $888 (approx. £625 or Ether equivalent) available for limited time only at makersplace.com

END — moviewatch

GREAT SCOTT! GREAT SEIKOS!

The watch of choice for all time-travellers in the 1980s was clearly a Seiko, as the film features three of them

by MICHAEL SONSINO

M OVIE WATC H

Back to the Future The future has been depicted in film more times than it’s possible to count, often alongside the concept of time travel, which is one of the greatest cinematic MacGuffins of all time.

The king of time travel films has to be Back to the Future.

While the questionable style choices of the future, ahem transparent ties, are explored in more detail in the subsequent films, the overall design of the original perfectly captures the retro vibes of 1985 and 1955. A key part of which are the costumes worn by Michael J. Fox and Christopher Lloyd’s Marty

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McFly and Dr Emmet Brown, especially their watches.

Let’s take a look at the Doc and Great Scott! He has some great Seikos – not to be confused with Grand Seikos which are something else entirely. And I do mean Seikos plural because the mad scientist carries no fewer than three timepieces on him at all times, a watch on either wrist and a stopwatch around his neck.

On his right wrist is the Seiko A826, frequently called the Training Timer. It’s a digital watch that was considered pretty advanced at the time due to its ability to record split-second timing with a remote trigger. It’s also evocatively sci-fi with the ability to change modes just by twisting the bezel.

Speaking of sci-fi, on his left wrist is a timepiece that is most likely straight science fiction, a silver calculator watch that has never been identified and is probably the Doc’s own invention. The final timepiece that he keeps on him is the Seiko stopwatch that he uses early in the film to demonstrate the DeLorean time machine.

Marty has a Casio CA53W calculator watch released in 1984, a year prior to the film’s setting – you can buy a modern equivalent for about £38. Marty’s one almost gets him in trouble in 1955 when it starts beeping as digital watches weren’t commercially available until the 1970s.

It’s good to know that watches in 1985 were capable of coordinating a 1.21 gigawatt lightning jumpstart for a time machine, so if you get stuck in the past with your 2021 technical masterpiece you should be absolutely fine. Just don’t kiss your teenage mother…