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ORDER NOV 25 - JAN 4, 2027 • BOSMAN VINEYARDS, SOUTH AFRICA: EIGHT GENERATIONS AT THE COUNTRY'S OLDEST WINE FARM, FROM THE FLAGSHIP ADAMA RED TO THE GENERATION 8 RANGE.
South Africa, Tuscany, Veneto & Sicily
• TUSCANY, FOUR WAYS: FROM TENUTA CINCIANO'S NINE CENTURIES OF HISTORY TO MOLINO DI SANT'ANTIMO'S BRUNELLO. • SICILY, REDISCOVERED: OTTOVENTI'S CATARRATTO, GRILLO AND NERO D'AVOLA, STILL UNDERRATED OUTSIDE THE ISLAND.
AB, CANT
SOUTH AFRICA
Bosman Vineyards I first went to South Africa in 2004, when it was still emerging from apartheid. The country itself was breathtakingly beautiful; the wines showed promise but often had green tannins or rough edges. Now, over two decades later, the country remains just as gorgeous, and the wines more than live up to that promise. It’s easy to forget how old South African viticulture is, dating back to 1655, when the left bank of Bordeaux was remote, malaria-riddled swampland. Bosman planted its first vines in 1810, and it is the oldest continuously owned wine farm in South Africa, based in Wellington, the heart of the Cape Winelands. This heritage is very important to them – their own, their country’s, their community and their land. A key element to Bosman Family Vineyards’ philosophy is sustainability, in all its contexts. Sustainable farming practices are a fundamental element of this, including a “compost tea”, brewed in vast quantities on site and transmitted to the vines through the drip irrigation
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system. This has resulted in 220% more carbon being sequestered in their soils, earning them the “Carbon Heroes” accreditation. But a business – and indeed a family – does not survive intact for over two centuries without recognizing the vital importance of a sustainable community. They created a workers’ trust, with a 26% stake in the business, the largest land reform grant to date in the South African wine industry. They are also a certified Fairtrade producer, but their commitment extends beyond this, providing support and opportunities for the whole community in areas including healthcare, housing, and education. Bosman has had eight generations to reach this point – we are reassured that Generation 9 is running round the vineyard, learning to love the land, the vines, and the people who take care of it.–siobhan turner mw
LEARN MORE ABOUT BOSMAN VINEYARDS
6421 ADAMA RED, WESTERN CAPE, 2024 Bosman are 'good guys' with a profit-share programme for employees and a nursery supplying the Cape viticulturists with the very best planting material. None of which is to say their wines are any good, but – when they are – I can't help but feel a warm glow. The Adama 2024 is a classy outing for the Bosman family, with restrained fruit showing blackberry, black currant, cherry, capsicum, tomato leaf, cinnamon and black pepper. The palate is genteel and layered with red currant, red cherry, licorice and dried herbs. Long and impeccably balanced, this will age well. 2028-2032–mp. Shiraz, Grenache, Nero, Durif, Tempranillo. 14%. $40
— SOUTH AFRICA BOSMAN VINEYARDS
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EDITORIAL
Long Live the Vineyard By Michael Palij MW
"The winemaker is dead! Long live the vineyard!" Never has our industry been quite so preoccupied with sulphur levels, yeast strains and bottle weights. Nothing wrong with all that, as few would argue that you can make fine wine from lousy grapes. Bosman is the largest vine nursery in Africa, and producers often turn to Bosman when seeking quality cuttings. Bosman's own flagship red, Adama, is a blend of six varieties, pivoting around dependable Shiraz and, in this vintage, including a splash of Tempranillo and Nero d'Avola. Wellington, an hour's drive northeast of Cape Town, may not be as cool as the prized coastal locations, but the Groenberg is Bosman's secret weapon, where cool winds make for aromatic fruit. They have been making wine here for about 250 years, though they paused from the late 1950s until 2007 to focus on the vine nursery. Winemaking is in their blood, and the impressively named Petrus Bosman renovated a cellar dating from the 1700s, and in so doing relaunched the
Table of Contents SOUTH AFRICA..............................................................................................P2 Bosman Vineyards......................................................................................P2 COUPS DE COEUR...........................................................................P5
MemberService@Opimian.ca
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CELLAR 341 — EDITORIAL
family business, with a dependable range that draws on an enviable vineyard catalogue. This is a cellar of choices, as we oscillate between South Africa's perfectly ripe allure and Italy's well-trodden, though sometimes unheralded, classical stretches. Collector's Corner leans unapologetically toward Tuscany and the Veneto: a choice of Molino di Sant'Antimo Brunello with room for development, and Canoso's corpulent Corpo Amarone, which has caught the eye of our latest expert recruit, Siobhan Turner MW. I'd urge the curious among you toward the Sicilian selections — Catarratto and Grillo are still criminally underrated outside the island itself, which is precisely why they belong in a club like ours. Cinciano wins the history battle, founded staggeringly early in 1126, when I would be very surprised if the wines were quite as good as they are today — savoury, traditional and consistent. A word, too, on Canoso's Mossa Garganega Brut. It is 100% Garganega, grown on the volcanic, basalt-rich hillsides of Soave and made using the Martinotti method. If you have ever tried such an esoteric and wonderfully balanced young sparkling wine, I promise to dance through the streets of Toronto in winter wearing only a shirt and Venetian breeches. There are no new producers to introduce this time; sometimes the honest thing to do is to trust in what has already worked well.
Groote Post.....................................................................................................P10 SICILY...................................................................................................................P14 Azienda Agricola Ottoventi................................................................P14 VENETO.............................................................................................................P16 Canoso...............................................................................................................P16 EVERYDAY WINES.........................................................................P18
TUSCANY.........................................................................................................P20 Tenuta Cinciano..........................................................................................P20 Fattoria Sorbaiano....................................................................................P24 Cantina Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano.........................P26 Molino di Sant'Antimo........................................................................... P32 COLLECTOR’S CORNER.............................................................P34
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COUPS DE COEUR
OUR MASTERS OF WINE'S FAVOURITE WINES IN THIS CELLAR
Opimian's new Master of Wine
SIOBHAN'S COUPS DE COEUR
NATURE & SUN GRENACHE NOIR, WELLINGTON, 2025, LOT 6428, P8
Jo Ahearne MW is a Wine Science graduate with global experience in winemaking, blending, and wine evaluation. She has worked with Jacobs Creek, Charles Melton, Marks & Spencer, Harrods, and brands like I Heart and Mirabeau en Provence. A member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, she now consults across the industry, drawing on decades of expertise.
Siobhan Turner MW is a Canadian-born wine consultant, writer, and authentication expert based in London, with deep ties to the Okanagan Valley, the subject of her 2021 Master of Wine research on Cabernet Franc. Today, she consults on fine wine and private cellar management, and is a recognized expert in wine fraud and authentication, chairing a panel for the International Wine Challenge and contributing to publications like The Drinks Business. Originally from Winnipeg, she remains one of the wine world's most passionate advocates for Canadian wine, particularly the wines of the Okanagan.
CINCIANO CAMPONI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, DOCG, 2021, LOT 6458, P22
JO'S COUPS DE COEUR
SANGIOVESE SCANTIANUM, TOSCANA IGT, 2025, LOT 6470, P29
CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE, DOCG, 2021, ALSO AVAILABLE IN MAGNUM WOOD CASE, 6456, LOT 6455, P21
— CELLAR 341 COUPS DE COEUR
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6423 GENERATION 8 CHARDONNAY, COASTAL REGION, 2026 Pale lemon hue. It's hard to find a good Chardonnay at a reasonable price, but this wine absolutely does the trick. On the nose, it smells of pears, nectarines, an appealing chalky note, and just a hint of petrichor (which I love equally as a word and an aroma). The palate is an appealing mix of fresh pears, preserved lemons, a hint of honey and Pink Lady apples. 2027-2028–st. Chardonnay. 12.5%, [4.70]. $25
6422 GENERATION 8 CHENIN BLANC, COASTAL REGION, 2026 Such great intensity for the price. Delicate lemon in colour, but the taste is much more punchy! Vibrant yellow peach with a hint of cream and some sappy freshness of basil. It's a generous wine, underpinned by bright, $25 lemon-inspired acidity. 2027-2028–ja. Chenin Blanc. 13%, [5.00].
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6424 GENERATION 8 CABERNET SAUVIGNON, COASTAL REGION, 2026
6426 GENERATION 8 SHIRAZ, COASTAL REGION, 2026
Purple hue. Shows the cassis of true Cabernet Sauvignon with a gentle nod to the structure of this famously stern grape variety. No scary tannins, just a nice bit of support, and great concentration at this level. Very drinkable. 2027-2028–ja. Cabernet Sauvignon. 13.5%. $25
Bosman is always full of surprises, and none more than this entrylevel Shiraz that punches well above its weight. A clear winner in this flight, it shows notes of white pepper, blackberry, black cherry, and a hint of eucalyptus. None of the varietal character is sacrificed in the pursuit of moderate alcohol (these days) and subtle tannins. The finish is rounded, seamless and shows impeccable balance. Not one for the cellar – enjoy it now. $25 2027-2030–mp. Shiraz. 13.5%.
EIGHT GENERATIONS OF WINEMAKING. ONE UNMISTAKABLE STYLE.
6425 GENERATION 8 MERLOT, COASTAL REGION, 2026 The Generation 8 Merlot has a bright, plummy profile that consistently delivers a tangy, juicy burst on the palate. Like the Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, this is a good, everyday red wine for weeknight dinners and simple barbecues. The tannins are a little chewier here, so be sure to pair with food. 2027-2029–mp. $25 Merlot. 14%.
— SOUTH AFRICA BOSMAN VINEYARDS
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6428 NATURE & SUN GRENACHE NOIR, WELLINGTON, 2025 Pale ruby hue. The nose is wonderfully floral, with violets, roses and strawberry compote. The strawberries become silky on the palate, enhanced by ground white pepper and wild roses, while the finish is smooth and elegant. Overall, delicious. 2027-2028–st. Grenache Noir. 13.5%, [3.50]. $35
NEW
6427 NERO ROSÉ, W.O. WELLINGTON, 2026 Pale salmon pink hue. Nero d'Avola makes such lovely red wine that you rarely see it made into a rosé. So you're in for a treat! It bursts with red cherries, candied fruit, and an undercurrent of leafy herbs. A wonderful texture, balanced by fresh, lively acidity. A simple, joyful wine that is just off-dry – ideal as an aperitif or to drink with spicy foods. 2027-2028–ja. Nero d’Avola. 13.5%, [5.30]. $40
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6430 BOSMAN UPPER HEMEL-ENAARDE PINOT NOIR, 2025 Pale ruby hue. Pinot isn't Pinot without its silkiness, and this certainly has that. Delicate in a ripe way, offering plum, rhubarb and a thread of earthy beetroot. A hint of toasty oak and soft tannin on the finish pulls it all together. 2027-2028–ja. Pinot Noir. 13.5%. $45
6429 BOSMAN UPPER HEMEL-ENAARDE SAUVIGNON BLANC, 2026 Lemon hue. You're greeted with such a beautiful waft of freshly cut grass from the glass. The vibe continues on the palate, joined by a burst of zesty lemon peel. An enjoyably taut texture follows, with elderflower and a hint of guava to finish. 2027-2028–ja. Sauvignon Blanc. 12%, [3.50]. $35
photo — Corlea Fourie is the winemaker at Bosman Family Vineyards.
— SOUTH AFRICA BOSMAN VINEYARDS
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SOUTH AFRICA PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR
6431 GROOTE POST SAUVIGNON BLANC, DARLING HILLS, 2026 Pale lemon hue. A rounded style of Sauvignon that shows ripe peach, classic grassiness and tropical notes. There is a note of sea air in there somewhere that acts as a useful foil to the fuller flavours – a nod to cooler conditions in the early stages of the growing season. 2027-2028–ja. Sauvignon Blanc. 13%, [3.60]. $30
Groote Post Formerly a prize-winning dairy farm in Darling, Groote Post switched wholly to vines in 2001. Darling faces the southern Atlantic, about an hour and a world away from the buzz of Cape Town. Groote Post, or “guard post”, is exposed to the cooling winds of the chilly Benguela current, so their focus on cool-climate varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir is the perfect approach. Their wines are fresh and fruity, with in some cases noticeable – and very enjoyable - salinity. The wines for immediate drinking tend to have a generous juicy sweetness, while those for keeping for the longer term have noticeable minerality, while still showing the freshness and liveliness so typical of the region and the winery.
LEARN MORE ABOUT GROOTE POST
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6432 GROOTE POST PINOT NOIR ROSÉ, LIMITED RELEASE, DARLING HILLS, 2026 Pale salmon. Difficult to judge this nose with its obvious leesy character, although there are also notes of red cherry, red plum, cooked strawberry, and black pepper. The palate shows real potential, with bright fruit flavours and a finish that hustles along on a wave of red currant, tinned strawberry, red cherry and pomegranate. Everything cheap rose should be. 2027-2028–mp. Pinot $30 Noir. 13.5%, [5.00].
CHAMPAGNE TECHNIQUE, DARLING TERROIR — BUBBLES WORTH CROSSING OCEANS FOR.
6434 GROOTE POST CAP CLASSIQUE CASE 3 BOTTLES EACH: BRUT AND BRUT ROSÉ, NV The lime-rich red clay soils and cool Atlantic breezes of Darling provide the perfect environment for the classic sparkling wine grapes of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and these two bubbly beauties certainly shine here. Apple compote, lemon curd and a hint of saffron on the Brut, raspberry millefeuille on the Brut Rosé, both are juicy and delicious wines, certain to please a crowd of two or twenty.
GROOTE POST VINEYARDS, GROOTE POST BRUT, CAP CLASSIQUE, DARLING HILLS, SOUTH AFRICA, NV
GROOTE POST VINEYARDS, GROOTE POST BRUT ROSÉ, CAP CLASSIQUE, DARLING HILLS, SOUTH AFRICA, NV
Pale, lemon-yellow hue. Cap Classique is South Africa's sparkling wine, and this is made very much in a Champagne style, with aromas of creamy apple compote, lemon curd and a hint of saffron, leading to zesty lime and Granny Smith. It has a chalky minerality, crisp acidity and a noticeable dosage that makes it very quaffable. 20272028–st. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir. 12%, [4.90].
Salmon pink hue. Full of flavour! This is no shrinking violet of a sparkler! Resplendent with plums, cherries and a hint of plum skin adding texture. Great as an aperitif and equally at home with roast pork – or even a tarte tatin. 20272028–ja . Chardonnay, Pinot Noir. 12%, [8.70]. $40
— SOUTH AFRICA GROOTE POST
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6433 SEASALTER/PINCH OF SALT CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH Two of my favourite wines of the tasting, classically Darling, with evocative fynbos (the Cape’s wildflower heathland) and a lovely saline touch. Seasalter is a Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon blend with a lovely citrus tang and an appealing chalky minerality. Pinch of Salt was one of my Coups de Coeur, more complex, still with citrus and salinity, adding lovely white fruit and freshness. Both delicious now, but the Chardonnay will keep and develop for a couple of years if you have the patience. (I would not!)–siobhan turner mw
SEASALTER SAUVIGNON BLANC/ SEMILLON, DARLING HILLS, CRAFTED BY GROOTE POST, 2026 Pale, lemon-yellow hue. A very appealing Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon blend that showcases the best of both grapes. There's a chalky minerality running through the wine, from the aromatics to the palate, supported by rich lemon curd, hints of white currants and notes of fynbos – the heady floral aromas from the Cape heathland. It has crisp acidity and a slight sweetness on the finish. 2027-2028–st. Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon. 13.5%, [3.30]
PINCH OF SALT CHARDONNAY, DARLING HILLS, CRAFTED BY GROOTE POST, SOUTH AFRICA, 2025 Pale, lemon-yellow hue. One of my Coup de Coeur choices – an absolutely delicious wine! Its nose is a complex blend of peaches, Meyer lemons and honey, with an entirely appropriate saline edge. That salinity continues on the palate, joined by more deliciously fresh lemons and peaches. It has crisp, well-balanced acidity and a long, lovely finish. Enjoy! 20272029–st. Chardonnay. 13.5%, [2.00]
SEASALTER— ONE OF SOUTH AFRICA’S MOST AWARDED SAUVIGNON BLANCS
$40
PINCH OF SALT — 93 POINTS, TIM ATKIN MW.
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ARTICLE
HEAVEN AND EARTH South Africa's Darling Hills and Hemel-en-Aarde By Siobhan Turner MW
South Africa is often referred to as a "new world" wine country, an understandable if somewhat inaccurate assessment. The Cape has been home to wine production since the first Dutch settlers in the 1650s, while the land on which the Bordeaux chateaux are now based was simply mosquito-ridden swampland. The winelands of South Africa are among the most beautiful I have ever been to. Stark jagged mountains, majestic (and quite chilly) oceans, stunning vistas in every direction, and, of course, the fynbos. Fynbos is the Cape floral kingdom, the smallest and yet richest floral habitat on earth, supporting proteas, heathers, reed-like plants and bulbs such as irises and orchids. Somehow, this plant environment manages to create something in the wines, a complex floral element that gives a subtle lift, an elegance and a glorious sense of beauty found nowhere else in the world.
Apartheid rightly hurt the industry. Canada was one of the principal boycotters, of course, but we were not alone, and eventually pressure worked and democracy was introduced. The industry took time to recover. Winemakers had become insular, vine stock was virus-riddled, and no one knew quite how to develop it. Some of the issues from the Apartheid years – land ownership, lack of opportunity, and the horrendous legacy of the alcoholism induced by the dop system – are still being worked through, but the South African wine industry has and continues to confront its past, and is now reaping the benefits of its diversity, both human and geographic. The wines in this offer come from Darling Hills and Upper Hemel-en-Aarde, two different but equally compelling regions, both worth a closer look. Darling Hills is on the far-western edge of the country, bordering the Atlantic Ocean and feeling the cool ocean breeze and the salt spray. It is only just over an hour from Cape Town, but a world away, a region of farmers' markets, freeroaming geese, and the real sense of being on the edge of the world, both somewhat isolated and entirely open to people and experiences. It produces cool climate varieties, particularly aromatic Sauvignon Blanc, vibrant Chardonnay and charming Pinot Noir, as well as the lovely Cap Classique sparkling wines. Upper Hemel-en-Aarde, in contrast, is a much more sophisticated region, focusing on the Burgundian varieties of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but with a bit of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinotage included for interest. There is an oceanic influence, bringing chilly winds and enough rain that irrigation is largely unnecessary, but it is not a truly cool climate, instead balancing the daytime warmth needed for ripeness with the cool nights that give freshness and brightness to these wines. There is a quiet beauty to Hemel-en-Aarde, whose name translates to "heaven and earth." The landscape is most reminiscent of the Cairngorms in Scotland (although perhaps a slightly warmer version, with less whisky and more wine). Indeed, Anthony Hamilton Russell's beautiful home is called "Braemar," and I could almost believe myself to be in the highland village of the same name – that is, until I climb the ridge and look out onto the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean. The wines from South Africa chosen for this cellar offer members a taste of both regions. They are ready to drink on arrival, but you don't need to rush – they will give pleasure for a few years yet! South Africa is one of the regions where one can still find a bargain in the wine world, and this selection offers members a chance to feel that Atlantic Ocean breeze at a very reasonable price.
"There is a quiet beauty to Hemelen-Aarde, whose name translates to "heaven and earth.""
— CELLAR 341 ARTICLE
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ITALY
SICILY
Azienda Agricola Ottoventi In Sicily’s northwest corner, just outside Trapani and below the hill of the evocative mountain town of Erice, the sun is hot, while the sea breeze refreshes. In this region, the wine has often been more sun than breeze. Ottoventi, a fourthgeneration family-owned winery, takes a different approach, picking usually three weeks before their neighbours and, in doing so, achieving a beautiful balance between ripeness and freshness, the warmth of the sun and the cool of the sea breeze. Their wines are to me the essence of Sicily. The Catarratto is bright lemons and zingy minerality; the Grillo is lemony again, with peaches, nectarines and wild lavender; and the Nero d’Avola is pure “gelsi”, or mulberries. Perfect for summer drinking, but these will stretch beautifully into the darker winter months, bringing a touch of Sicilian warmth to the depth of a Canadian winter.
LEARN MORE ABOUT AZIENDA AGRICOLA OTTOVENTI
6439 OTTOVENTI CATARRATTO, SICILIA DOC, 2025 Very pale straw hue. I love Catarratto, and this one really lived up to my expectations, with a lovely bright zesty lemony-ness and zingy minerality – the essence of Sicily! The nose shows typical lemon and granitic minerality with a hint of wild sage, while the palate adds a touch of ripe melon. Perfect for summer – or when you want to pretend it is. 2027–st. Catarratto. 13%, [2.00]. $35
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6440 OTTOVENTI GRILLO .8, SICILIA DOC, 2025 Pale lemon with a hint of green. Lifted peach blossom aromas fill the nose and palate alongside lemon verbena. Fresh acidity and a fulsome, enticing texture from lees contact. Lots of structure and depth for such a quaffable wine. 2027-2029–ja. $30 Grillo. 13%, [2.00].
6441 OTTOVENTI NERO D'AVOLA .20, SICILIA DOC, 2025 Dark cherry red. In Sicily, around July, you get gelsi – or mulberries – appearing everywhere, which also seem to have crept their way into this wine. The combination of dark mulberry fruit alongside notes of strawberries and licorice, then hints of raspberry on the palate, is irresistible. Chill lightly in the summer or serve at room temperature with the Thanksgiving turkey. 2027-2029–st. Nero d’Avola. 13%. $35
— SICILY AZIENDA AGRICOLA OTTOVENTI
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ITALY
VENETO PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR
Canoso The Canoso family began producing wine for local consumption in 1876. Fast forward to the 1970s, and Giuseppe Canoso scrimped and saved to buy prized land on a volcanic hill and construct a new cellar. He was on to something, and little by little he chipped away at the project with the help of his sons, eventually bottling the first ‘Canoso’ wine in 1990. Primo and Massimo Meneghello relaunched Canoso in 2016, and it is one of the standout estates in the southeast of the Soave Classico region. The brothers age the vines between 25 and 40 years, taking a minimalist approach to viticulture and letting the volcanic soils do the talking. In the cellar, they use lees contact to great effect, ensuring their whites have a wonderful texture, while the reds, matured in both barriques and tonneaux, are elegant in style.
LEARN MORE ABOUT CANOSO
6444 MOSSA, GARGANEGA BRUT, CHARMAT METHOD, NV Bright lemon hue. Fresh, attractive nose showing grapefruit and ripe pear. The palate has a lick of lemony acidity and a twist of bitter almond. A very enjoyable Martinotti method (like Prosecco, but made with Garganega, the ‘Soave grape’). 20272028–mp. Garganega. 11.5%, [6.00]. $35
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6445 VERSO, SOAVE SUPERIORE CLASSICO DOCG, LE COSTE, 2023 A very textured glass of wine, with notes of sweet almond, camomile, acacia, honey and toffee apple. ‘Le Coste’ is Canoso’s top cru site, and they have gone for weight here, the extensive lees ageing lending a gastronomic angle. Finishes long and a little savoury. 2027-2030–mp. Garganega. 12.5%, [0.80]. $50
6446 FONTE, SOAVE CL ASSICO DOC, 2025 Lemon-green hue. An elegant, reserved Soave that is starting to show a range of flavours, including lemon, dried honey, candle wax, almond, and white flowers. This will remain on the finer side and continue to blossom. 20272028– mp. Garganega. $35 12%, [2.90].
NEW
6448 INTRO, VALPOLICELLA DOC, 2025 Pale ruby hue. A Valpolicella that is in the Pinot Noir camp for style. Fine, firm tannins provide backbone for the silky texture, and a core of beaming red cherries steals the show. Freshness is the word. A complex, game- and rosemary-inspired finish completes the picture. 2027-2029–ja. Corvina, Corvinone, $40 Rondinella. 12.5%.
6449 TERRA, VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE DOC, 2021 Deep ruby hue. Big, bold expression made from grapes dried for 10 days that have spent 36 months in old tonneaux. There are lashings of red and black cherry, a blast of alcohol and chunky tannins. The best way I can describe this is as a baby Amarone with an instant fun factor. 2027-2029–mp. Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella. 14.5%. $50 NEW
6447 OLTRE, BIANCO VERONESE IGT, 2025 Lemon-green hue. An intriguing blend of Manzoni and Trebbiano di Soave. The former is a Vitis vinifera hybrid developed by Professor Luigi Manzoni in the 1920s at Italy's oldest school of enology, in Conegliano. Complex flavours of apple, Amalfi lemon, sage, bay, white peach, nectarine, and grapefruit make for a very accomplished white of genuine interest, with good development potential. Long and savoury, with a gentle breeze of florals on the finish. 2028-2032–mp. Manzoni Bianco, Trebbiano. 12.5%, [2.00]. $50
— VENETO CANOSO
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6436 THE OLD MAN'S BLEND MERLOT · CABERNET SAUVIGNON · SHIRAZ, WESTERN CAPE, 2026 $20 6437 THE OLD MAN'S BLEND MERLOT · CABERNET SAUVIGNON · SHIRAZ, WESTERN CAPE MAGNUM, 2026 $45 Dark garnet hue with paler edges. An absolute bargain price for a delicious red wine that can both stand you proud at a dinner party and be opened without guilt on a Tuesday night. The nose is deep and lush, with plums, blackcurrants, violets and roses, leading to a palate laden with bramble fruit, mirabelle plums, cherries and dark chocolate. 2027-2029–st. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz. 13.5%
6435 THE OLD MAN'S BLEND SAUVIGNON BLANC · CHENIN BLANC, WESTERN CAPE, 2026 This attractive blend of Sauvignon and Chenin carries the best of each, with a bright nose of gooseberry, asparagus, wet wool, and lanolin. A pleasant surprise for those who don't dilly-dally assessing the aromas: the palate is boisterous and expressive, with layers of lemon peel, lime juice, honeysuckle and dried honey. All in all, quite the humdinger of an affordable Cape white. 2027-2029–mp. Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc. 13.5%, [3.50]. $20
WINES TO SAVOUR ANY DAY OF THE WEEK 18
CELLAR 341 — EVERYDAY WINES
6442 KUBÌLA, IGT TERRE SICILIANE BIANCO, 2025 Medium lemon hue. Great value quaffer, showing fresh peach and melon with a nod to leafy herbs. The discreet nature and soft acidity make for an ideal aperitif. 2027-2028–ja. Catarratto, Grecanico, Chardonnay. 13%, [2.00]. $25
6443 KUBÌLA, IGT TERRE SICILIANE ROSSO, 2025 Deep purple hue. Amazing depth for the price. Rich, warm and inviting, oozing cherry, chocolate and plum; florals and prune to finish. The sleek tannins provide the required support without upsetting the applecart. A job well done. 2027-2029–ja. Nerello Mascalese, Nero d'Avola, Syrah. 13%. $25
— SOUTH AFRICA, TUSCANY, VENETO & SICILY EVERYDAY WINES
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ITALY
TUSCANY
Tenuta Cinciano The village of Cinciano, halfway between Siena and Florence, has medieval roots and was first documented way back in 1126, although the Garrè family’s presence here is a little more recent, at just over 40 years and counting. The Cinciano estate covers a healthy 150 hectares all in, including 24 hectares of vineyards and 40 of olive trees overlooking the western border of Chianti Classico. The location has long been a hotbed of Sangiovese
NINE CENTURIES OF HISTORY, ONE UNMISTAKABLE CHIANTI CLASSICO.
6453 CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, 2024 Dark cherry red. A brooding Chianti, with aromas of black tea and wintergreen. The swirling depths of its dense tannic structure are invigorated by a resinous twist, and the finish, smouldering with sage, tobacco and sassafras, bears the hallmarks of maturing Sangiovese. 2027-2029–st. Sangiovese. 13.5%. $50
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but, equally, has shown consistency with international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Always sensitive to tradition, the Garrè family also explore lesser-planted indigenous varieties, adding Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo and Foglia Tonda to their blends. Sustainability is a strong focus, and Cinciano are Equalitas certified, Italy’s leading sustainability standard.
LEARN MORE TENUTA CINCIANO
6454 CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, DOCG, 2023 Medium ruby hue. Coming to you with a fantastic pedigree, this Riserva, from the Classico heartland, offers generous texture, balanced tannins and bright notes of plum, cherry and prune. The long finish impresses, revealing game, leather and a flicker of sweet vanilla oak. Ready to drink and will improve – if you have the patience. 2027-2038–ja. Sangiovese. 14.5%. $65
6455 CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE, DOCG, 2021 (6 BOTTLES) $80 6456 CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE, DOCG MAGNUMS WOOD CASE, 2021 $160 Medium ruby hue. I often use the word ‘focused’ for wines that really speak to me,
and this example is particularly fine-tuned. It has a harmonious structure that offers abundant fruit (prunes, dried cherries, figs), a never-ending chocolatey finish, and textural mastery that balances opulence with restraint. A powerful wine that knows when to hold back, making use of tannins and acidity to keep the soaring momentum on course. 2027-2040–ja . Sangiovese. 14.5%.
— TUSCANY TENUTA CINCIANO
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DISCOVER CINCIANO'S PREZIANO, A ONEOF-A-KIND WHITE SANGIOVESE — ONLINE EXCLUSIVE, LOT 6452
6458 CINCIANO CAMPONI CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, DOCG, 2021 Dark cherry red. Oh, how lovely this wine was! If I could have taken a bottle with me for dinner, I would have. The nose of cream, black cherries, and black tea folds neatly into the palate of second helpings, bolstered by wild Mediterranean herbs and a touch of leather. Beautiful balance and intensity, with layers of complexity and a delicious finish. 2028-2033–st. Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Malvasia Nera.14.5%. $85
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6457 RIDOLFINO, TOSCANA IGT, 2025 Mid ruby hue with purple rim. This veritable smorgasbord of Tuscan grape varieties has resulted in a highly original, floral style with undertones of fresh red fruit. Earthy notes weave neatly in between plum and cherry, providing entertainment. Tannins are unobtrusive, and the polished texture is a high point. Who would have thought that Foglia Tonda blended with Canaiolo would become such a cause for celebration? 2027-2028–ja. Canaiolo, Foglia Tonda, Malvasia Nera, Sangiovese. 12%. $50
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OPIMIAN'S SUPER TUSCAN
6459 CINCIANO PIETRA FORTE ROSSO TOSCANA IGT, 2022 (6 BOTTLES) $90 6460 CINCIANO PIETRA FORTE ROSSO TOSCANA IGT MAGNUM WOOD CASE, 2022 $250 Dark cherry red. Figs, plums and the kind of graceful, dark-fruited aromas that go rather well with game. The palate has a warmish feel marked by stewed mulberries and generous helpings of vanilla and black pepper. Some wines could wilt under the burden, but this rises admirably to the challenge, offering confident structure rounded off by fine, stylish tannins. 20282031–mp. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese. 14%
— TUSCANY TENUTA CINCIANO
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ITALY
TUSCANY
Fattoria Sorbaiano LEARN MORE FATTORIA SORBAIANO
OPIMIAN'S SUPER TUSCAN
6461 SORBAIANO ROSSO, MONTESCUDAIO DOC, 2025 Very deep purple. Ripe and obvious nose of blackcurrant, damson, black plum, fruit cake, crushed blueberry and mulberry. Very young but making waves with its high tannins, spritely acidity and a ripe, juicy finish that shows black plum, cooked black cherry, violets and crushed black pepper. 2026-2032–mp. Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon. 13.5%. $35
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6462 PIAN DEL CONTE, MONTESCUDAIO SANGIOVESE DOC, 2022 Medium ruby. Scented nose with an exotic array of classic warmclimate Sangiovese notes: incense, charcoal, licorice, black pepper, sandalwood and damp earth. The palate shows a perfect balance between Sangiovese’s legendary tannins and ripe red and black fruit, with balsamic notes. A core of red and black cherry, black plum, cold tea, and tomato leaf, with licorice, sandalwood, and ink on top. The finish is superb: balanced and very long. 2028-2030–mp. Sangiovese. 14%. $45
6465 VIN SANTO DI SORBAIANO, MONTESCUDAIO DOC, 2021 Deep gold with a tuck-in-now nose of caramel, toffee, raisin, grilled pineapple, bruised apple, cinnamon and vanilla. The palate is exceptional, showing a huge whack of acidity to balance the high level of residual sugar. Vanilla, toffee apple, caramel, baking spice, and crème brulée linger on the finish. Peerless for apple-based desserts. 2028-2030–mp. Trebbiano Toscano. 14.5%, [134.00]. 375 ml. $100
OPIMIAN'S SUPER TUSCAN
OPIMIAN'S SUPER TUSCAN
6463 FEBO, IGT COSTA TOSCANA MERLOT, 2022
6464 VELATHRI, IGT COSTA TOSCANA CABERNET FRANC, 2022
Deep ruby. Pronounced nose, with cooked black cherry, cracked black pepper, red plum, vanilla, cocoa powder, cinnamon and clove. Although young, this is worryingly easy to drink! The mid-palate shows a core of plush black fruit, including cherry, plum, blackberry, pepper, cedar, vanilla, and baking spices. The tannins from this hot vintage are fully mature and provide a perfect backdrop to the fruit. It’s difficult to resist, but it will develop admirably in the bottle. 2028-2030–mp. $75 Merlot, Syrah. 14%.
Deep ruby. Pronounced nose showing cooked plum, pencil shavings, garrigue and sage. Muscular, dusty tannins drive the palate, with cracked black pepper and dark chocolate. The finish shows a concentrated core of dark fruit, and the tannins are out in force. 2028-2030–mp. Cabernet Franc. $75 14%.
— TUSCANY FATTORIA SORBAIANO
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ITALY
TUSCANY
Cantina Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano Tuscany has 11 DOCGs, and Morellino di Scansano is one of the more discreet regions, lying around 200km southwest of Florence in the hills around Scansano, in the (better-known) Maremma. It has a long history, became a DOC in 1978, and has been Tuscany’s newest DOCG since 2007. The ever-popular Sangiovese is king here and is known locally as Morellino. It makes a somewhat softer, supple wine, from a generally warmer climate than Chianti. Where there are coastal breezes, white varieties do
well, and so one sees a good amount of Vermentino, plus pockets of Viognier, Chardonnay and others. The tenacious Cantina was formed in 1972 to help pool resources – Morellino di Scansano was an unknown quantity at the time, split into smallholdings that sold locally. It has driven the promotion of the region’s image, with a passionate president, Benedetto Grechi, who has been at the helm for 30 years. Since the 1980s, it has also built a reputation for a quality-driven approach backed by investment in infrastructure, which is rare among cooperatives. The winery was built in 2005.
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SAME GRAPE AS CHIANTI. DIFFERENT COAST, DIFFERENT CHARACTER, DIFFERENT PLEASURE. PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR
6466 ROGGIANO, MORELLINO DI SCANSANO DOCG, 2025 Dark cherry red. A dense, fresh wine with aromas of ripe cherries, red currants, and a hint of black tea, opening on the palate to reveal luscious black cherries, wild sage, and cocoa nibs. Wonderfully intense, with impressive length. 2027-2029–st. Sangiovese, Alicante. 13.5%. $30
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6467 SCANTIANUM VIOGNIER & ROSATO CASE - 3 BOTTLES EACH Viognier needs the Maremma warmth to develop fully, and here it blends seamlessly with Chardonnay, resulting in a herby, peachy-toned wine with generous texture. Scantianum, if you were wondering, is the Latin toponym for the town of Scansano. The Vermentino has a fresh lemon-and-thyme feel, plus a blast of white pepper on the finish. It is a typical regional example. Its twin, the unoaked Sangiovese ‘Scantianum’, is generous in body with both savoury and super-ripe cherry notes; soft tannins linger. Capoccia Ciliegiolo? You get a medal just for pronouncing it. It is juicy, black cherry deliciousness combined with balancing savoury notes. ROSATO SCANTIANUM, TOSCANA IGT, TUSCANY, 2025 Atlantic salmon pink hue. A Coup de Coeur for me. This is a wonderful summer rosé, with a nose reminiscent of fresh Okanagan cherries, wildflower meadows, and iced tea drunk in the daytime at the cottage. The palate is equally as sunny and bright, alive with juicy cherries, raspberries and nectarines. A happy wine. 2027–st. Sangiovese, Ciliegolo. 11.5%, [2.50] VIOGNIER SCANTIANUM, TOSCANA IGT, TUSCANY, 2025 Lemon hue. A slimline Viognier that retains its oily nature and is rather delicate, offering gentle aromas of yellow pear and boiled candies. Apricot is a recurring theme, with Tuscan wildflowers blowing in from some idyllic expanse. 2027–st. Viognier. 13.5%, [1.60]. $30
— TUSCANY CANTINA VIGNAIOLI DEL MORELLINO DI SCANSANO
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6468 RASENNO, BIANCO DI PITIGLIANO SUPERIORE, DOC, 2025 Lemon hue. A light white wine perfect for summer drinking. The nose is a salad of peaches, apricots, lemon zest and an appealing hint of wildflowers. On the palate, an attractive touch of bitter almond essence overlays the stone fruit and wildflower flavours. Refreshing and easy to drink. 2027–st. Trebbiano, Chardonnay. 13%, [1.60]. $30
6469 VERMENTINO SCANTIANUM, TOSCANA IGT, 2025 Lemon hue. I love Vermentino in part because of its white pepper finish, and this wine has that and more! The good folk at Cantina Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano have worked wonders with the lees, stirring just enough to release a lovely texture without overwhelming the wine’s structure. The finish has a refreshing, pithy bite that complements the thyme and sage notes, and, to cap it all, a pleasing salinity mixed with white pepper. 2027-2028–ja. Vermentino. 13%, [1.70]. $35
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6470 SANGIOVESE SCANTIANUM, TOSCANA IGT, 2025 Pale ruby hue. Lovely velvety texture. No obvious oak, but you can taste the mellow influence of older, larger barrels. Warm and generous, with gamey, savoury notes that mingle with delicate nuttiness and super-ripe cherries. The tannins are barely there but do just enough to support. Amazing depth and complexity at this level. 2027-2029–ja. Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Alicante, Merlot. 13%. $30
— TUSCANY CANTINA VIGNAIOLI DEL MORELLINO DI SCANSANO
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6471 CAPOCCIA CILIEGIOLO, MAREMMA TOSCANA DOC, 2025 Medium ruby hue. Ciliegiolo is an unusual variety, named after the Italian word for cherry. Here, it produces a wine with a plush texture and fine, dusty tannins. Ripe dark plums with a hint of greengage and ever-present rosemary fill the palate, finishing with black cherries. Juicy in an appetizing, savoury way. 2027-2029–ja. Ciliegiolo. 13%. $35
6472 VIGNA BENEFIZIO, MORELLINO DI SCANSANO DOCG, 2024 Dark cherry red. Creamy ripe cherries on the nose layered with wild herbs and a touch of vanilla. This is somehow the essence of a perfectly made cherry tart, with a touch of cocoa nibs and a hint of sassafras. If I close my eyes, a knife and fork would not go amiss. 2027-2028–st. Sangiovese. 13.5%. $40
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6473 ROGGIANO RISERVA AND SICOMORO RISERVA CASE - 3 BOTTLES EACH ROGGIANO RISERVA, MORELLINO DI SCANSANO DOCG, TUSCANY, 2023 Dark cherry red. A really lovely, complex wine, with ripe cherries, black tea and chocolate on the nose. The palate reminds me of those Morello sour cherries I'm getting from my greengrocer at the moment – the ones that barely make it home because they are so delicious. This wine is similar, with added hints of vanilla, cocoa, black tea and wild sage, bringing complexity and deliciousness. 2027-2029– st. Sangiovese. 14%. SICOMORO RISERVA, MORELLINO DI SCANSANO DOCG, TUSCANY, 2023 Medium ruby hue with an orange rim. Morellino di Scansano isn't the most famous Tuscan region, but it produces some stunning wines. This shows impressive balance, serious depth and structure. There is leather, dried lime, chocolate raisin, black cherry and prune – the list goes on. Swashbuckling stuff, and I hate to use the word yummy for such a serious wine, but it is! 2027-2033–ja . Sangiovese. 14.5% $55
— TUSCANY CANTINA VIGNAIOLI DEL MORELLINO DI SCANSANO
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ITALY
TUSCANY
Molino di Sant'Antimo LEARN MORE MOLINO DI SANT'ANTIMO
6476 MOLINO DI SANT'ANTIMO ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 3 BOTTLES EACH ROSSO DI MONTALCINO DOC, TUSCANY, 2022 Deep ruby hue. A wellbalanced Rosso that delivers a ripe, full feel while remaining elegant. The nose offers a wide range of aromas, including hawthorn, tomato leaf, and mulberry, while the palate adds red apple and blackberry. This has seen time in both stainless steel and oak, which has proven a good call, allowing the fruit to shine. 2027-2029–mp. Sangiovese. 14%.
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ROSSO DI MONTALCINO DOC, TUSCANY, 2024 Very pretty and fragrant, offering beguiling aromas of rose petal, hawthorn, violets, red currant and cranberry jelly. The palate delivers on the promise, with fine tannins and fresh acidity driving a long, filigree finish. Although this needs a couple of years to open up, it is a stunning expression of Sangiovese that does justice to the vintage. 2028-2030–mp. Sangiovese. 14%. $45
6477 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA DOCG, 2020 Deep purple hue. An excellent effort in a scorching year that will drink like a beauty in the medium term. Still closed, this offers licorice, black pepper, blackberry, cinnamon, tar, gamey notes and Bovril. Seemingly picked at the peak of perfection, the fruit offers beautiful length, fine, exceptionally ripe tannins and mouthwatering acidity. 2028-2031–mp. $175 Sangiovese. 14.5%.
6478 MOLINO DI SANT'ANTIMO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO - 3 BOTTLES EACH OPIMIAN'S SUPER TUSCAN
6475 ROMITO TERRE VITTORI IGT TOSCANO ROSSO, 2020 Rich, almost unctuous nose with tertiary notes of leather, cold ash, forest floor and tobacco. Underneath is a gorgeous engine of tightly woven tannins and black fruit, showing blackberry, crushed blueberry, licorice, black pepper, and plum. Those looking for a mature, super, super-Tuscan need look no further than this exceptional example from our friends at Molino di Sant'Antimo. Full throttle to the lingering finish, this delivers a balanced, expressive yet fullbodied example of the Montalcino hinterland's potential. 2028-2035–mp. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese. 14.5%. $80
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG, TUSCANY, 2021 Absolute stunner, with layers of complexity and tannins, oozing a never-ending flavour profile of blackberry, black cherry, tobacco, cinnamon, orange zest, black plum, menthol, incense and sandalwood. New French-oak influence, albeit from larger barrels, delivers excellent balance. This was a year of April frosts that destroyed part of the crop, but, in this case at least, what was left seems to have magnified in aromatic intensity. 2028-2035–mp. Sangiovese. 14%. BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG, TUSCANY, 2022 Deep ruby hue with a garnet rim. Classic Sangiovese aromas of sour cherry, black tea, violets and dried herbs, with tobacco and sweet spice from the oak. The palate is concentrated yet poised, with firm, fine-grained tannins and mouthwatering acidity carrying a long, savoury finish. Drinkable with decanting, but built for the cellar.–mp. Sangiovese. 14%. $100
— TUSCANY MOLINO DI SANT'ANTIMO
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There’s something about Brunello di Montalcino that just sings to me. It has the power of the Sangiovese, but with a finesse, purity and elegance that can, in its best expressions, reach towards the ethereal and the transcendent. In this wine, you have not just the wonderful sour cherry and black tea of Sangiovese, but hints of vanilla, hazelnut and clove that bring depth and complexity, with just a touch of Mediterranean herbs on the palate, as if reminding you gently of its Tuscan origins. A wine for cellaring for a few years, and certainly one for a special occasion. Thanksgiving, Christmas, Hanukkah – all would be graced by this lovely bottle – but at the same time, so would just a lovely Thursday dinner with good friends.
NEW
6479 MOLINO DI SANT'ANTIMO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG "VARCO 84", 2020 Dark cherry red in colour, with crisp acidity and moderately high tannins, this is everything you could want from a Brunello di Montalcino. The nose of black tea, sour cherries, vanilla, hazelnut and clove is confirmed on the palate as the genuine article. The finish makes a graceful entrance, climbing to impressive heights and oozing gravitas. This may be your best investment yet – well-suited to the Thanksgiving table, Christmas, or Hanukkah celebrations. 20282033–st. Sangiovese. 14.5%. $140
Carlo Vittori bought an abandoned piece of land southwest of Montalcino in the mid-1980s (when, it must be said, prices were rock-bottom) and set to work on a long-term project for top Brunello that caught the interest in premium Italian reds at exactly the right time. Land prices here are over ten-fold what they were 40 years ago, and this is one producer with the chops to back it up. Carlo's daughter, Valeria Vittori, is now in charge and takes a meticulous approach to fruit extraction, with an emphasis on finesse. She opts for sealed fermentation tanks that submerge the cap for three-to-fourhour stretches, ultimately resulting in gentler extraction in a process that lasts around two weeks. She has replaced some of the larger casks with smaller barrels, too, which, she has concluded, are well-suited to taming the riper styles of wine that are becoming more prevalent, while also allowing for better assessment on a parcel-by-parcel basis. 2019, it must be said, is a great vintage for Brunello – pure fruit, intensity and finesse. This example is first rate. There are prunes and plums alongside more savoury, aged notes and subtle oak influence, to underpin but never
CELLAR 334341 —— 34 CELLAR CANADA COLLECTOR’S CORNER
dominate. It’s so ready to drink now, though with the concentration to improve further with careful cellaring. A genuine special occasion wine, offering brilliant balance between the luscious and structured. 6480 MOLINO DI SANT'ANTIMO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA DOCG MAGNUM WOOD CASE SIGNED BY THE WINEMAKER, 2019 Pale ruby hue with an orange rim. This is a wine to buy for someone you love very much. 2019 was a knockout Brunello vintage, blissfully free of extremes and serving up a steady ripening season that made for seriously complex wines. It has both generosity and direction: stylish tannins wrap around sapid fruit that blends primary plum notes with prune, leather, and old oak. The joy of a good Brunello is that it comes ready-aged but keeps on improving, and I can see this building in stature. 2027-2039–ja. Sangiovese. 14.5%. 1500 ml. $500
COLLECTOR’S CORNER
RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR
The joy of Amarone is in the contrast between the vibrancy of the Corvina grape and the darker, raisined, almost chocolatey qualities that come from the dried grapes and the long, slow maturation, giving it the bitterness (“amaro”) whence its name derives. Predominantly cherries, cinnamon and cloves on the palate, the nose hints of the complexity to come – touches of sassafras and ginger, with snippets of wild Mediterranean herbs and mocha. With this level of alcohol, acidity and tannin, balance is all, and Corpo is well poised, like a diver just before executing a jaw-dropping routine into a deep, blissful sea. Intense by any measurement, this is a wine meriting patience, which it will amply reward. Share with someone special.
6450 CORPO, AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG, 2018 Deep red, almost black in colour, this is intense, complex and will reward a bit of patience. Layered on the nose, with cherries, raisins, wild herbs, chocolate, cinnamon, clove, sassafras and ginger all present. On the palate, it is equally compelling. Cherries and baking spices are predominant, with a noticeable "amaro" touch at the end. The refreshing acidity and moderately high tannins are exactly what is needed. A wine for that big occasion. 2028-2033–st. Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella. 16%. $100
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