339
ORDER SEP 16 - OCT 19, 2026
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Barolo, Undivided On my first trip to Barolo, I was struck by the topography, which looks as if grandma had made a quilt out of various vineyards and hedgerows, then draped it over jelly moulds of varying sizes. Difficult to replicate, no doubt, outside of the Langhe – a UNESCO-recognised area of outstanding natural beauty. In an era that preceded readily available satellite imagery (and despite the accomplishments of cartographer Alessandro Masnaghetti, whose Barolo map offers another level of elegant detail), nothing quite prepared me for the real thing. As good as Barolo is next to its Burgundian equivalents, it is an instinctive impulse to question why it needs to be divided into minuscule portions that demand individual recognition. My doubts faded away, however, when I saw the complexity of the landscape and how this lends itself to microclimatic diversity. Joining Opimian on an exclusive tour to Piemonte is one way to bring that sense of enlightenment into your glass, but sitting at home with a glass of Barolo from Osvaldo Cabutto is the next best thing! I love reminiscing about meeting him and his curmudgeonly approach to sales. I first went to see him in 2018 and was refused entry. I persevered, nevertheless, and my next visit was rewarded with a tour of the astonishing Aladdin’s cave of slumbering Barolo that makes this ultra-traditional estate such a spectacular find for
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photos — Brothers Osvaldo and Bruno Cabutto took over their grandfather's estate, founded in 1920. Michael Palij MW during a visit at the Cabutto Estate in 2023.
Opimian. In fairness, it wasn’t until visit four or five that Osvaldo deigned to discuss commerce. We eventually struck a deal but not before a fair amount of stickhandling on both sides! Finally getting my hands on this old-school Nebbiolo, made by the Ronnie O’Sullivan of the Barolo world, was a happy day indeed. Come to Piemonte, and you’ll see what I mean.–michael palij, mw.
6297 CABUTTO TENUTA LA VOLTA BAROLO DOCG, 2022 Pale brick red with orange rim. Makes quite an entrance. There are sweet red fruit and vanilla notes that meld confidently with drier flavours of rosemary, cured meats and sour cherry on the palate; the finish is already eternal. For a Barolo, this has enough flex to drink now, although the firm, fine tannins provide the required structure for improvement. 2028-2040–ja. Nebbiolo. 14.5%. $96
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— CELLAR 339 CABUTTO
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EDITORIAL
From Piedmont to Niagara: An Italian Wine Legacy By Michael Palij MW
One doesn't need to drive far in Woodbridge (or on College Street) in Toronto to understand the vast Italian diaspora who helped shape the fabric of our wonderful and culturally diverse country. After New York, Toronto is home to more Italians than any other city in North America. And wherever you have Italians, you can be sure that jarred tomatoes, sausages, ham and wine aren't far behind. Italian immigrants to Canada were welcomed primarily in Halifax (specifically at Pier 21, which is now an immigration museum) and this influx surged in the postwar decades, particularly between 1951 and 1961, as families sought to escape the crushing poverty and domestic strife in postwar Italy. Some stayed in Nova Scotia but many moved to the larger urban centres including Toronto. The Niagara Peninsula with its mild climate and propensity for viticulture proved a strong draw and the Italian influence there remains strong even now. This heritage shaped the modern Ontario wine industry directly: Donald Ziraldo, alongside partner Karl Kaiser, ushered in a new era of vinifera Niagara winemaking in the 1970s, co-founding Inniskillin and helping establish the VQA quality framework that underpins Ontario wine today. That Italian thread continues through both grapes and techniques. Nebbiolo went in the ground in 1999 high on the escarpment, producing what may have been the first
Table of Contents Cabutto................................................................................................................ P3 COUPS DE COEUR...........................................................................P5 CANADA..............................................................................................................P6 Meldville Wines.............................................................................................P6 SICILY.....................................................................................................................P8 Cortese.................................................................................................................P8 ABRUZZO.......................................................................................................... P11
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Nebbiolo wine made in Canada. Corvina followed and brought with it broader interest among Italian-Canadian producers in appassimento winemaking. Stylistically, Niagara's cool climate and limestone-rich soils echo alpine Italian regions like Piedmont and Veneto, making Nebbiolo, Corvina, and similar varieties a natural, if challenging, fit. I have yet to find an Ontario Nebbiolo or Corvina that warrants a place in this catalogue but I am heartened by the experimentation. More on Niagara in a moment but, speaking of Nebbiolo, I am delighted that Osvaldo and Bruno Cabutto have again agreed to share their Barolo with members. The Cabutto brothers have never been moved by the distant rumbling of chainsaws and steady trickle of French barriques arriving into town. If Tenuta La Volta is traditional (conventional, even) then I am quite happy to buy into it. They make only one Barolo (as the family has for almost a century) blended from vineyards in the communes of Barolo, La Morra and Novello. These were purchased directly from the Marquis of Mirafiori, the nephew of Vittorio Emanuele II, and are, dare I say, some of Barolo's finest. With predominantly blue marl interlaced with sand, their vineyards naturally lean to the elegant and to the perfumed, a characteristic highlighted with exceptionally long macerations (28-33 days) and a minimum of 36 months in very large, old Slavonian botte. Elegance doesn't mean feeble; the delicate aromatics cleverly disguise those textbook tannins that imbue Barolo with its legendary ability to age. As my son would say, 'Dad, you need to lean into this one'. Consider me leaned. But back to Niagara and what, then, of Meldville? Derek Barnett, an Englishman transplanted from Swinford to Niagara's Lincoln Lakeshore, seems equally unmoved by fashion. His Barrel Select Chardonnay is fermented and rested seventeen months in third-fill French oak, old enough to whisper rather than shout, letting Lake Ontario's tempering hand do the real work of shaping the fruit. The result is a wine of butterscotch, pear and yellow plum, generous without excess, its acidity gentle rather than assertive. The Cab Franc is also a winner, all the more so given it's fiendishly difficult to ripen fully in Niagara. Derek seems to get it just right with graphite and black fruit melded into restrained oak. All in all, they are a delicious taste of our home and native land.
Nicodemi........................................................................................................... P11 SARDEGNA..................................................................................................... P12 Dorgali................................................................................................................ P12 VALPOLICELLA............................................................................................ P13 Scriani................................................................................................................. P13 LAKE GARDA.................................................................................................P14 Giovanna Tantini.........................................................................................P14 Nunzio Ghiraldi............................................................................................P14 ALTO ADIGE....................................................................................................P16
Kellerei Merano............................................................................................P16 EVERYDAY WINES.........................................................................P18 GAVI..................................................................................................................... P22 VOLCANIC WINES..................................................................................... P23 FLIP ASTI AND PROSECCO................................................................P26 PIEMONTE......................................................................................................P30 NEBBIOLO...................................................................................................... P32 COLLECTOR’S CORNER.............................................................P34 Vini Di Luca....................................................................................................P34
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COUPS DE COEUR
OUR MASTERS OF WINE'S FAVOURITE WINES IN THIS CELLAR Heidi Mäkinen MW is a Portfolio Manager and Partner at Finnish wine importer Viinitie. Best Sommelier of Finland 2015 and a WSET & IWSC Future 50 (2019), she has competed internationally, led the Finnish Sommelier Association, and now teaches WSET courses worldwide, judges major competitions, and delivers masterclasses and consulting.
HEIDI'S COUPS DE COEUR
TERRA LANGHE DOC NEBBIOLO, 2024, LOT 6319, P33
ARLANDINO, GRIGNOLINO D'ASTI DOC, 2025, LOT 6332, P27
Jo Ahearne MW is a Wine Science graduate with global experience in winemaking, blending, and wine evaluation. She has worked with Jacobs Creek, Charles Melton, Marks & Spencer, Harrods, and brands like I Heart and Mirabeau en Provence. A member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, she now consults across the industry, drawing on decades of expertise.
JO'S COUPS DE COEUR
NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI PIEMONTE DOC ROSATO, 2025 (ALSO AVAILABLE IN A MIXED CASE, LOT 6355), P31
7 MOGGI PIEDIROSSO VESUVIO DOP, 2024, LOT 6330, P23
— CELLAR 339 COUPS DE COEUR
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CANADA
Niagara
MELDVILLE WINES
If you, like me, were weaned on Crackling Rose and Baby Duck then you will need no introduction to the horrors of Niagara Peninsula's chequered viticultural story. It began in earnest in the 1860s, when the region's first commercial vineyard went in near Queenston (then Queenstown). It took the better part of a century, however, before the labrusca varieties (Concord, Niagara, Catawba et al) were grubbed up in favour of European vines. In 1974, Inniskillin, founded by Karl Kaiser and the irrepressible Donald Ziraldo, planting Riesling and Chardonnay and proved that Niagara did have some potential. Although the Okanagan now has more area under vine, the combination of the moderating effect of Lake Ontario and the Niagara Escarpment to the south (aided by a touch of global warming) has thrust Niagara into the international spotlight. The Niagara Peninsula Designation of Origin was formally established in 1988 and subdivided into ten sub-appellations in 2005. This recognised meaningful terroir differences between the Bench and the Lakeshore and there are now approximately 14,000 acres planted (similar to Chablis or St. Emilion). Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc lead the quality charge and Meldville makes the most of using both these varieties and these sub-regions. We are delighted to represent Meldville across Canada and bring them exclusively to Opimian members.– mp
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6281 MELDVILLE SAUVIGNON BLANC, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2025 Pale lemon hue. Easy-going aromas of cut grass, green apple and pear. Sporting a hint of residual sugar, this has notes of gooseberry, apple pith, linden and blossom. The finish is subtle but gets over the line. 2027-2029–mp. Sauvignon Blanc. 12.5%. photo — Thirty years of winemaking experience shape Derek Barnett's small-batch, low-intervention approach to varietals like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah.
NEW
6282 MELDVILLE BARREL SELECT CHARDONNAY, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2024
6284 MELDVILLE CABERNET FRANC, GRIMSBY HILLSIDE VINEYARD, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2024
Pale lemon hue. Light-hearted nose that plays at toffee, red apple, guava and mango. The palate leads with gentle layers of oak and some leesy notes, remaining light and composed. Another side of Chardonnay that will appeal to the curious. 20272029–mp. Chardonnay. 13%.
Deep ruby hue. Lovely nose, with pencil shavings, black cherry, sweet spice, cooked plum and crushed blackberry. A plush and generous example of this grape, showing layers of black fruit including cherry, currant and plum. Tannins are ripe and melded and the black fruit notes are supported by oaky spice including cinnamon, vanilla, coconut, cold ash and licorice. 20272032–mp. Cabernet Franc. 13%.
6283 MELDVILLE CABERNET FRANC, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2024 Deep ruby hue. Clean, ripe, fragrant nose showing small black berries, black cherry, plum, menthol and licorice. Cabernet Franc is always a structured red, and this is no exception, with firm, chalky tannins and fresh acidity. The finish shows black-fruit notes of blackberry, cherry, and plum, with oak adding licorice and char. An austere but balanced example of Canadian Cabernet Franc. 20272029–mp. Cabernet Franc. 13%.
6285 MELDVILLE BARREL SELECT SYRAH, VQA NIAGARA PENINSULA, 2024 Medium ruby hue. Attractive nose, with classic Syrah notes of black pepper, blackberry, licorice and incense. Though it has presence, the palate also has a cool feel, with sinewy tannins and green tea alongside dark fruit flavours. 2027-2029–mp. Syrah, 13%.
PRICES ARE AVAILABLE ONLINE.
— CANADA MELDVILLE WINES
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ITALY
SICILY
6286 CORTESE BIANCO TERRE SICILIANE IGP ORGANIC (ORANGE WINE), 2025
Azienda Agricola Cortese Sicily is a magnificent place. If it were not for the surrounding sea, the island would be too hot for quality wine production. However, welcome coastal breezes, coupled with canny use of altitude, allow its grapes to ripen during the day and cool down at night, lending vivacious acidity to the inevitable burst of ripe fruit flavours. At Cortese, the vineyards are tended organically, embracing a spirit of nurture (the nearby Ippari River Valley is a Special Area of Conservation, home to one of Sicily’s few natural Aleppo pine forests, and local producers take pride in promoting biodiversity). Originally from Trento, Cortese proprietors Stefano and Marina Girelli have found their true home a few kilometres north of the Renaissance city of Vittoria. Focusing on native varieties (Carricante and Catarratto for whites; Nero d’Avola and Frappato for reds), the couple make devilishly good wines for pennies. Try their whites with fresh seafood and reds with slow-roasted lamb flavoured with ras-elhanout, and you’re in for an unforgettable evening.
LEARN MORE ABOUT AZIENDA AGRICOLA CORTESE
REGION FOR THIS CELLAR
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Pale orange hue. Orange wine is all the rage. This has seen a good dose of skin contact, which shows in its grippy phenolics. Flavour-wise, there is apricot, peach, candied citrus and orange blossom, the latter being the hallmark of Zibbibo (known elsewhere as Muscat of Alexandria, and easily one of the oldest varieties on the planet!). For such a relatively light wine, the concentration and length are impressive. 2027-2028–ja. Inzolia, Zibibbo. 12%, [<1.00]. $40
6287 CORTESE SABUCI CERASUOLO DI VITTORIA CLASSICO DOCG ORGANIC, 2024 Deep ruby hue. Rich, intense oak adds sweet spice to a pot of sundrenched strawberries and raspberries. The palate doesn’t let up, its earthy undertones underpinning a core of ripe red fruit. The tannins are unobtrusive, although there is room for steady development. If you like your spice dialled up, give this a go. 2027-2032–hm. Nero d'Avola, Frappato, 14%. $50
6289 RUPE SECCA NERO D'AVOLA, SICILIA DOC, 2025 Deep ruby hue. The abundance of wild fruits – raspberry, strawberry, cranberry – makes the nose rather inviting, while the full-bodied palate can handle the touch of sweetness created by residual sugar, making for a rich, ripe style that stays the right side of tasteful. This has volume and would be an excellent pairing for lasagna. 2027-2030–hm. $30 Nero D’Avola, 13%.
6288 CORTESE NOSTRU CARRICANTE/CATARRATTO-LUCIDO CASE - 3 BOTTLES EACH CORTESE NOSTRU CATARRATTO LUCIDO TERRE SICILIANE IGP ORGANIC, 2025 Oozing tropical fruit aromas such as pineapple, guava and mango, set off against stone fruit notes of apricot and red apple. As an everyday quaffer, it is hard to beat this friendly white that's bursting at the seams with flavours that evoke warm Sicilian evenings. On the palate, there's peach, pineapple, papaya and even a hint of cinnamon (from the grape rather than from oak). At 12.5%, this hits the spot, and there is enough acidity to keep ticking over for a year or two. 2026-2028– mp. Catarratto Lucido. 12.5%, [<1.00].
CORTESE NOSTRU CARRICANTE TERRE SICILIANE IGP ORGANIC, 2025 Tightly knit and linear, this has a saline edge and notes of modelling clay, tangerine, lime, broom, bay and almond. The palate has a nutty complexity reminiscent of hazelnuts, together with camomile, and citrus notes of orange, lemon and lime. If the Catarratto is lush and obvious then this is just the opposite, with a delicate seam of mineral and citrus fruit, more Sancerre than Ozzie Chardonnay. 20262029–mp. Carricante. 12.5%, [<1.00]. $35
— SICILY CORTESE
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ARTICLE
BEYOND SANGIOVESE Italy's Hidden Grape Varieties By Michael Palij MW
The French have a word for collectors of Champagne capsule tops: placomusophile, and that makes me wonder if Italians have a similar word for those who seek out wines made from obscure grape varieties. Perhaps the more unusual ones command a premium on the late-night swaps circuit? If that were true, I suspect I would immediately shoot to the top of the nerd's gallery. Nothing is quite as fascinating for the bored as uncovering the rare and exceptional in the Italian canon of native grape varieties. On that note, I give you Turbiana. Turbiana is the Lugana grape, a DOC which backs onto Lake Garda's southern shore and is bounded to the north by its azure beauty. Where does Turbiana fit into the wine map? It is closely related to Trebbiano di Soave and a direct descendent of Verdicchio, unquestionably one of the peninsula's finest whites. Turbiana grows exclusively in the Lugana area but Turbiana doesn't appear on the label, Lugana does. This is because Italian convention dictates that terroir is more important than grape variety. The name 'Lugana' refers to a specific hamlet near Sirmione, the jagged peninsula awash in Roman temples dedicated to Catullo. When originally proposed in 1967, the DOC comprised a small patch of clay soils between the shoreline and the terminal moraine where the gravel, red-only DOC of Bardolino begins. This being Italy, the DOC has subsequently grown to include soils distinctly less clay-ey. Turbiana needs clay to produce its oily, high-acid, age-worthy signature and its extraordinary aromatics. There is never a stick of oak in sight here as Turbiana offers a panoply of flavours including both citrus and orchard fruit, nutty notes including almond and a beguiling hint of fennel or liquorice all wrapped in saline acidity. It is Chablis in terms of acidity and lemon freshness and Vermentino in terms of weight and structure.
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But I digress. C339 offers a chance to try so many more grapes than just Turbiana, so here's a summary of others, all wellworth a short trip off the beaten track: Grignolino: Piemonte's pale-hued forgotten son. Cursed with an additional pip that used to lead to swingeing tannins, modern Grignolino is bright, highly aromatic, and bursting with notes of rose petal, orange peel and exotic spice. Serve lightly chilled with charcuterie for a wine that upends everything you thought you knew about "light reds." Freisa: A genetic cousin of Nebbiolo, Freisa shares that grape's tannic backbone but wraps it in wilder, more rustic fruit. You'll find the usual notes of red and black fruit but with an intriguing 'sotto bosco' character. It was traditionally vinified 'vivace' but these days it's a fine red in its own right. Like Grignolino, it rewards the curious. Piedirosso: So called because of the crimson stalks, this is a Campanian native originally hailing from the highly volcanic Campi Flegrei (literally 'burning fields'). This is as irascible as a grape can be given it's inanimate; the wines are juicy in a red currant way with an herbal edge, notes of cranberry and red cherry, and a swathe of acidity a mile wide. It's often blended with its big brother, Aglianico, to soften its power, and that's saying something given Aglianico's structure. Nerello Mascalese: Etna's answer to Pinot Noir, pale, perfumed, and remarkably age-worthy, grown on volcanic terraces up to 1,000 metres. Expect red cherry, wild herbs, and a smoky mineral identity. If you love Pinot, you really must try an Etna Rosso. This is a grape increasingly prized by Pinot hunters chasing Burgundian elegance from unexpected places. Sicily's most exciting red for anyone seeking finesse over power. Carricante: The backbone of Etna Bianco, Carricante thrives on the volcano's mineral-rich soils and high altitudes. Derived from 'carrico tanto' or 'I carry a lot' it tends to high yields and therefore needs a firm hand on the secateurs. On my first visit I was blown away by this grape (then grown by only two wineries) that showed high acidity, citrus and saline notes and an incredible propensity for ageing. 30 years later, I remain as enthralled as ever. Caprettone: Long mistaken for Coda di Volpe, Caprettone is now recognised as its own variety, grown around Mount Vesuvius and central to Lacryma Christi DOC. This shows a broad swathe of stone fruit and candied peel and is designed for relatively early drinking as most of it rolls down the hill and into the Napoletane trattorie. Caprettone is a little-known grape from a very famous mountain.
ITALY
ABRUZZO
Fattoria Nicodemi
6298 TERRANA MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO DOC, 2025 After all these years it still remains a mystery how Elena Nicodemi manages to coax so much complexity from her Montepulciano. No doubt the gorgeous amphitheatre of vineyards in the heart of the Colline Teramane helps, but it is her deft hand in the cellar that really does the heavy lifting. This is a proper little wine that showcases the pictureperfect 2025 vintage (on the Adriatic coast, at least) to great effect. The signature notes of Bovril, cocoa powder, black pepper and ink are reminiscent of Barossa Shiraz. Youthful, with firm but perfectly ripe tannins and more than a little acidity, this is a terrific wine for the money. The finish rolls on confidently, with notes of baked cherry, meat, cocoa nibs, incense and iodine, all speaking of a wine punching way, way above its weight. 2027-2030–mp. Montepulciano. 13%. $35
Abruzzo has much to offer: mountainous terrain; crystal-clear coastlines; great gastronomy. As for grapes, the red variety Montepulciano is king here, producing rich, fullbodied, powerfully structured wines. The family winery Nicodemi is run by the sister-brother duo Alessandro and Elena Nicodemi. They grew up playing in the vineyards and, just like father and grandfather before them, fell in love with the surroundings. Mindful of their role as curators, the Nicodemis have converted the winery to run solely
on solar power and gained organic certification for the vineyards. Their signature is a rich, savoury style, always elegant, that complements Abruzzo’s culinary heritage, pairing well with dishes such as patellette with wild mushroom sauce (patellette is a local, triangle-shaped, handmade pasta made with wheat and corn flours). At times misunderstood, Montepulciano is a major-league grape that makes a lasting impression when grown in conditions that favour its fresh acidity and plush flavours. In this respect, few regions come close to Colline Teramane, which is Abruzzo’s only DOCG.
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6299 LE MURATE COLLINE TERAMANE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO DOCG, 2024
6300 NOTÀRI COLLINE TERAMANE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO DOCG, 2023
Opaque ruby hue. Rich, intense nose glowing with jammy bramble and prune, plus sweet oaky char and barbequed beef. The rotund palate combines muscular tannins with ripe plum fruit and surprisingly light-footed florals. Moves well for a heavyweight! 2027-2034–hm. Montepulciano. 14%. $50
The opaque ruby colour sets the tone. There is a ripe nose of prune, cassis and bramble jam, with a pleasant earthiness lurking in the background. The rich palate takes tannin in its stride and finishes with a blast of winter spices such as clove and cinnamon. Very promising. 2027-2034– hm. Montepulciano. 14%. $70
— ABRUZZO NICODEMI
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ITALY
SARDEGNA
Cantina Dorgali A decade or so ago, Sardinian wines were clinging onto the radar fringes, a light-hearted afterthought in a sea of superior identities. But then came the Mamojà Association, a producers' collective based only an hour’s drive inland from Olbia. Their ambition was to sprinkle fairy dust on the island’s viticulture by heroing the island’s most-fancied variety, Cannonau. By 2022, the party was hotting up. There are parallels here with how I felt after visiting Priorat back in 1991, when young winemakers began producing something genuinely worthy of praise in another isolated corner of Europe. Dorgali is a mid-sized cooperative that has picked itself up by its bootstraps in the last decade. The cellar itself is impeccable, and all its members are bound by an agreement to put quality ahead of quantity. If you’re not familiar with Sardinian wines, these are a great introduction: they're entry-level wines with a generous dollop of varietal identity. For the record, their ‘Tunila’ is named after a Roman soldier, and the Latin on the label is taken from a plaque commemorating his honorary discharge, held in the National Archaeological Museum in Cagliari.
LEARN MORE ABOUT CANTINA DORGALI
6302 TUNILA CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA DOC, 2025 One of the great wonders of the modern viticultural world, Cannonau (a.k.a. Grenache) absolutely kicks it here on the unrewarding granite soils of Sardinia. Sourced from four different parcels, this exudes a nose warm with notes of tinned strawberry, red cherry and raspberry compote. On the palate the red fruit is underpinned by cinnamon, white pepper, baking spice and saddle leather. Although perhaps not in quite the same league as Thistledown, this is nevertheless an unabashedly ripe, juicy and gluggable Grenache that can take a slight chill or duke it out with stews, steak and cheese. An utter joy! 2026-2029–mp. Cannonau. 14%. $35
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CELLAR 339 — CANADA
6301 CALALUNA VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA DOC, 2025 No wonder this cheap and cheerful Vermentino is a firm favourite amongst Opimians. The nose is fresh as a summer's day, with cut grass, gooseberry, lemon pith and a textbook note of candle wax. The good news follows through on the palate, with citrus and stone fruit notes underpinned by Vermentino's signature oily texture. This cellar has been carefully selecting parcels of grapes from around Dorgali since 1953, and they know the area like no other. Vermentino is native to this part of the island and never fails to produce characterful whites that can easily handle a few years in the cellar. 20272028.–mp. Vermentino. 12.5%, [1.00]. $35
ITALY
VALPOLICELLA
Scriani Although Valpolicella covers a broad area of the Verona province, the term ‘Classico’ denotes a wine from the region’s five original valleys, dating back to before 1968, when DOC status brought a dramatic expansion eastward towards Soave. Scriani's vineyards lie in the Fumane valley, relatively near the river Adige (and eastern border of Bardolino), in the northwest of the Classico zone.
6321 SCRIANI ORÌ VINO ROSSO, DELLE VENEZIE IGT, NV
6322 SCRIANI VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO DOC, 2025
Medium purple hue. Fresh, juicy and downright friendly. It isn’t complicated, but there is some drive and a flurry of Oregon cherry on the finish, restoring balance to the otherwise fruity melee. 2027–ja. Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, Oseleta, Merlot. 13%. $40
Medium ruby hue. At first the nose is timid but opens in the glass to reveal focused aromas of red and black cherry, plus blackcurrant. The palate has poise and rather nippy acidity that carries the juicy cherry and cassis-driven fruit towards a stylish finish, while the soft tannins are well in keeping with the overall character. 2027-2032–hm. Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, Oseleta. 12.5%. $45
The Classico area has a knack for silky fruit that, with the right touch, can be fashioned to achieve an almost unrivalled range of styles. Prioritizing freshness, Scriani train most of their vines using the traditional pergola method, which creates a horizontal leaf canopy that acts like a parasol over the grapes, protecting them from excessive sun and heat. This makes for backbreaking work come harvest time – but is essential for preserving fruit purity. Scriani produce a subtle Valpolicella Classico with succulent black cherry fruit, a bold, velvety Ripasso Classico that rather dials up the volume, and an Amarone for the ages. The latter is made with fruit naturally dried over winter, which is not without risk, and fermented exclusively with natural yeasts.
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6323 SCRIANI VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO CLASSICO SUPERIORE DOC, 2023 Ruby red with purple rim. A vibrant, statement wine with velvety texture and generous chunk of sweetness on the midpalate that contributes notes of dark chocolate to a base of cooked cherries. Fine tannins and cocoa nibs on the finish provide an air of seriousness, and there is plenty of length. 2027-2030–ja. Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, Oseleta. 14%. $65
6324 SCRIANI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO DOCG, 2023 Ruby red hue. This doesn’t hold back on the nose, offering cherry compote with herbs and pipe tobacco in rather heady harmony. The palate is sizable, no doubt, holding well together, the residual sugar and alcohol adding purpose to a slab of black cherry, plum, and dark chocolate. On the finish, sour cherry adds complexity, and there is a neat dryness that closes the deal. 20272040–ja. Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella. 16%. $125
— VALPOLICELLA SCRIANI
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ITALY
LAKE GARDA
Giovanna Tantini It is hard to beat Lake Garda for views. Italy’s largest lake is a postcard on a grand scale, nonchalantly beating at the borders of Veneto, Lombardy and Alto Adige. For winemakers, the lake’s expanse is also key, creating milder winters and cooler summers in an otherwise continental climate. When conditions align, there is a lengthy growing season making for ripe, aromatic fruit, something that Giovanna Tantini takes full advantage of at her estate in Bardolino. Although Bardolino’s bubble may be past its prime, it is changing, and in 2021, the region was split into three crus – Sommacampagna, Montebaldo and La Rocca – which seek to reestablish a reputation for winegrowing excellence. Giovanna is at the forefront, giving priority to the most serious of Bardolino’s grapes, Corvina, and racking up awards for her nimble Chiaretto.
Approximately 10 miles west along Lake Garda’s south shore, Nunzio Ghiraldi is tasked with his own challenge. His Lugana DOC, made from Turbiana, is an example of a fantastically fragrant white little known outside its home region. Yet, Lugana reaches its apogee in the Lugana di Sirmione cru, where Nunzio is based, on a stretch of clay soils locally called ‘the golden mile’ for the consistent quality of the fruit grown here. You will find dazzling purity in his ‘Il Gruccione’ (The Jay), while ‘Sant’Onorata 1953’, his top-shelf number made with fruit from 60-year-old vines, affirms his mastery of the mineral style.
LEARN MORE ABOUT GIOVANNA TANTINI
BARDOLINO RARELY RECEIVES THE PRESS IT DESERVES, SO HERE'S ONE TO SET THE RECORD STRAIGHT.
6303 GIOVANNA TANTINI BARDOLINO CHIARETTO DOC, 2025 Light salmon hue. Aromatic nose combining florals with fresh fruit such as ripe strawberry, peach, pear and dark cherry. The palate has a pleasing softness about it – fragrant cherry toying with chamomile’s herbal aromatics. With such vivacity, this would make an excellent pairing for citrus, shrimp and avocado salad. 2027-2029–hm. Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara. 12.5%. $40
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6304 GIOVANNA TANTINI BARDOLINO DOC, 2025 Pale ruby hue. Bardolino rarely receives the press it deserves, so here’s one to set the record straight. Cooly understated, the sum of Giovanna Tantini’s labours is this fine-tuned concoction of cinnamon, red apple, mulberry, cooked raspberry and strawberry, bound by pinpoint tannins and usefully high acidity. Stunning example, really. 2026-2029–mp. Corvina, Rondinella. 12.5%. $45
6305 IL GRUCCIONE LUGANA DOC NUNZIO GHIRALDI, 2025
LEARN MORE ABOUT NUNZIO GHIRALDI
Pale straw hue. Initially reticent, this shows tentative notes of grapefruit peel and freshly cut green apple that blossom into a heady floral character accompanied by ripe peach notes. The forward palate is soft and mellow, offering fresh apricot and cantaloupe melon that zips along on the acidity, making for an invigorating finish. 2027-2030–hm. Turbiana. 13.5%, [3.60]. $40
6306 SANT'ONORATA 1953, LUGANA DOC, 2024 Back by popular demand, this is Nunzio's top wine sourced from a vineyard his grandfather planted in 1953. The grape is Turbiana, sometimes known as Trebbiano di Lugana, or even Verdicchio. The DNA now proves conclusively that Verdicchio is the parent of twins: Trebbiano di Soave and Turbiana. Turbiana, over the centuries, has come to prefer the heavy clay soils of Lugana, whilst Trebbiano di Soave opts for the volcanic hills just to the east. With that viticultural detail out of the way, the 2024 is no small triumph, with a beautiful freshness from the vintage allied to pink grapefruit, apricot, peach, green almond and Amalfi lemon. The palate is expressive and surprisingly full-bodied, with considerable volume on the finish that sees a herbal note of bay and basil mix with the stone fruit. This is a stunning example and will age for a decade. 2027-2035–mp. Turbiana. 13.5%, [1.60]. $80
photo — Nunzio Ghiraldi traded the study of law for his grandfather's calling, tending the family's Trebbiano di Lugana vines on the shores of Lake Garda.
— LAKE GARDA NUNZIO GHIRALDI
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ITALY
ALTO ADIGE
Kellerei Merano Often when I think of Alto Adige, my thoughts go to Alsace, for the two regions have much in common: both are situated in the north of their respective countries, and both are known for varietal wines made from international, aromatic grape varieties. Both also have Germanic influence. For those new to wine, Alto Adige offers surprisingly fertile ground for experiencing the classics. Whereas most of Italy has its own local excitement, Alto Adige wines excel in combining the international reference point with recognizable, expected varietal character. Kellerei Merano’s wines certainly fit this mould and are both approachable and authentically alpine. If this is Italy’s answer to Alsace, it certainly measures up.
LEARN MORE ABOUT KELLEREI MERANO
6325 FESTIVAL PINOT GRIGIO ALTO ADIGE DOC, 2025 Pale lemon-green hue. Dare I say a ‘serious’ Pinot Grigio, with fuller, velvety texture, generous peaches and cream, and a sprinkle of fresh herbs. There is entertaining interplay between oily texture and acidity, which provides unusually good length. Great quaff! 2027–ja. Pinot Grigio. 13%, [3.00]. $50
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6326 FESTIVAL WEISSBURGUNDER ALTO ADIGE DOC, 2025 Pale lemon hue. Fresh nose of apple, white peach and ripe lemon, with that just-picked sensation rubbing shoulders with an almond blossom character. The palate is most definitely dry, wonderfully lithe in texture, and with waves of acidity supporting a reprise of the fresh blossom and apple combo. 2027-2030–hm. Pinot Bianco.13%, [3.00]. $50
photo — Stefan Kapfinger is the Chief winemaker at Kellerei Merano. "With each new harvest the grapes offer me a new challenge and the opportunity to create exquisite wines. Each part of the bunch of grapes has its own personality that has to be specifically catered to."
6328 GRAF MERANER - SCHICKENBURG AND LAGREIN CASE 3 BOTTLES EACH GRAF MERANER SCHICKENBURG ALTO ADIGE DOC, 2025 6327 FESTIVAL GEWÜRZTRAMINER ALTO ADIGE DOC, 2025 Medium lemon hue. Signature aromatics of lychee, ripe peach and rose petals. This off-dry style shows oily richness and has a fruit-forward mid-palate of fragrant white peach and lychee. Pair with chicken katsu and jasmine rice. 2027-2030–hm. Gewürztraminer. 13.5%, [7.00]. $60
Pale ruby hue. A luscious texture welcomes you to the glass but doesn’t outstay its welcome; there is a lighter side, all dried cranberry and fine, ripe tannins. A dried sage and rosemary element adds lift, and the finish is rather intriguing, with cured meats and fresh red berries. 2027-2028–ja. Schiava. 12.5%, [3.00].
GRAF LAGREIN ALTO ADIGE DOC, 2024 Opaque purple hue. Get Lagrein wrong and it ends up a bullish concoction with incongruous green, chewy tannins. This is something else. There is vibrant plum and blackcurrant sown together by ripe, integrated tannins offering plenty of lift. A touch of vanilla rounds off the finish. Delicious now, but there’s really no rush. 2027-2035–ja. Lagrein. 12.5%, [3.00]. $65
— ALTO ADIGE KELLEREI MERANO
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WINES TO SAVOUR ANY DAY OF THE WEEK 6290 DEA DEL MARE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO DOC, 2025 Opaque purple hue. Ripening those Montepulciano tannins can be tricky, so I can't quite believe what a great job they have done with this! It is full of juicy plums sprinkled with sage and green peppercorn. The tannins are firm but fine, and the body has more than enough velvety texture to accommodate them. Warming, and with enough acidity to make things interesting. 2027-2028–ja. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. 13%. $20
6291 DEA DEL MARE CATARRATTO PINOT GRIGIO TERRE SICILIANE IGP, 2025 Pale straw yellow. Attractive, delicate nose of grapefruit, fresh apple, just ripe pear and white flowers. On the palate, this is dry, light and fresh, brimming with pretty orchard fruit and floral character. A genuine crowd-pleaser. 2027-2028–hm. Catarratto, Pinot Grigio.11%, [4.00]. $20
6295 DEA DEL MARE PROSECCO DOC EXTRA DRY Pale straw yellow. Driven, aromatic nose bursting with ripe orchard fruit such as apple and pear, with fresh florals only adding to the seductive character. On the palate, a soft and creamy mousse makes for an instant win, with refreshing acidity that counters the initial sweetness. Give me a sunny terrace, now. 2027-2028–hm. Glera. 10.5%, [15.00]. $30
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6292 FEDELE ORGANIC WINE CASE: 6 BOTTLES EACH: FEDELE ROSSO & FEDELE NERO D'AVOLA FEDELE NERO D'AVOLA SICILIA DOC ORGANIC, 2025 Medium purple hue. This is a wine for those who like sweeter fruit flavours. There is intense blue fruit on the palate (blueberry, bramble) sealed with just a kiss of tannins to keep it on track. With its soft acidity and gentle floral tones, this definitely grows on you. 2027–ja. Nero d’Avola. 13.5%. FEDELE ROSSO TERRE SICILIANE IGP ORGANIC, 2025 Medium ruby hue. Somewhat dark-fruited nose – ripe bramble and blackcurrant accompanied by black plum. The palate is all sweet juicy fruit, with soft tannins keeping the package together. Approachable and refreshing. 2027-2029–hm. Nero d'Avola, Merlot, Shiraz. 13.5%. $25
— ITALY EVERYDAY WINES
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6293 COLPASSO PINOT GRIGIO TERRE SICILIANE IGP, 2025 Pale lemon hue. Yellow peach with herbal twist and a hint of white pepper. The palate has a noticeably taut texture, with an appealing sweetness on the finish balanced by a twist of grapefruit peel. 2027–ja. Pinot Grigio. 12%, [4.00]. $25
6317 MITO DOGLIANI DOCG, 2025
DRINK LIKE THE PIEDMONTESE! BAROLO IS FOR SELLING; DOLCETTO IS FOR DINNER. DOGLIANI'S DOCG IS THE VERSION LOCALS TAKE SERIOUSLY, AND MITO IS THE PROOF.
Medium purple hue. Ripe, darktoned, concentrated nose of blueberry, black cherry and black plum, meriting serious consideration. The palate offers delightfully juicy, ripe plum notes, with firm tannins leaving their mark on the finish and offering cellaring potential. 2028-2032–hm. Dolcetto. 13.5%. $25
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WINES TO SAVOUR ANY DAY OF THE WEEK
6294 COLPASSO GRILLO AND COLPASSO FIANO CASE - 6 BOTTLES EACH
GRILLO IS THE COASTLINE: BRIGHT, SALINE, SICILIAN. FIANO IS THE TRANSPLANTED ARISTOCRAT: RICHER, ROUNDER, ANCIENT PEDIGREE IN ISLAND FORM. TOGETHER THEY MAP SICILY'S WHITE WINE FUTURE.
COLPASSO GRILLO SICILIA DOC, 2025 Pale lemon hue. On the nose, an abundance of orchard fruit teams up with cantaloupe melon and carambola. The purity of fruit on the palate impresses, with floral notes striking a contrast, and touch of phenolic grip on the finish to add focus. 20272030–hm. Grillo. 12.5%, [4.00].
COLPASSO FIANO TERRE SICILIANE IGP, 2025 Pale lemon hue. Yellow peach notes overlayed with bitter grapefruit peel on the nose, adding zesty flair. The bold palate has plenty of presence, driving towards a lingering finish of citrus and honey. 2027–ja. Fiano. 12%, [4.00]. $25
— ITALY EVERYDAY WINES
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ITALY
GAVI
La Zerba
6307 LA ZERBA GAVI DOCG COMUNE DI TASSAROLO BIO, 2025 Pale straw hue. Encouraging bundle of aromas including cherry blossom, ripe apple, apricot and peach. The taut palate benefits from a somewhat grippy feel, with grapefruit pith and medicinal notes, making for gastronomic possibility. 2027-2030–hm. Cortese. 12%. [<0.50]. $45
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Gavi is located in Piemonte, a region perhaps better appreciated, in wine circles at least, for its reds and white made not from Cortese, but Arneis. Yet this is no cheap thrill, and beyond Gavi’s popularity as an easy-to-pronounce go-to, there is some serious pedigree. La Zerba’s offering, from Gavi’s highest commune, Tassarolo, has the vibrant acidity and mouthwatering tension to rival many a competitor, its stone fruits dancing toe-totoe with crisp apple and Conference pear in a performance of some calibre. This is as good as a dependable Chablis or Sancerre and probably merits a place in every wine fridge. photo — Winemaker Mascherini Andrea tasting his Tassarolo wine.
ITALY
VOLCANIC WINES
THE RED POMPEII DRANK: FRESCOES IN THE BURIED CITY SHOW THIS GRAPE. TWO THOUSAND YEARS ON, PIEDIROSSO STILL DELIVERS
Sorrentino Volcanic soils are often regarded as unique in the world of wine, and there is truly something mystical about them. Their wines can be aromatically expressive, with high fruit intensity, rich mouthfeel and a powerful, firm texture. Volcanic subsoils, formed through weathering of ash, lava and rock over thousands of years, are rich in minerals, making their own, sometimes gunpowdery mark on a wine’s flavour profile. The porous nature of volcanic soils also pushes the vine to limit its yield, resulting in complex, quality fruit.
6330 7 MOGGI PIEDIROSSO VESUVIO DOP, 2024 Medium ruby hue. The forward nose offers bundles of sweet bilberries, black cherry and prunes. Dark forest fruits are again in season on the concentrated palate, which is framed by robust, powdery tannins and some herbal notes, with chunky fruit centre stage. With cellar time, this will become a real winner. 20282034–hm. Piedirosso, 13%.
Family-owned Sorrentino put their soul into Vesuvius, the only active volcano in continental Europe. They produce wines from the instantly recognizable Pompeiano IGT, at the foot of the volcano, as well as from the slopes, where the Vesuvio DOC is located. Long a hotbed of regional identity, grape varieties include Caprettone and/or Coda di Volpe (the two white varieties are intermingled and grow almost exclusively on Vesuvius), Aglianico – which grows brilliantly here – and dark horse Piedirosso, which is something of a Sorrentino favourite and can be used to soften Aglianico’s rather combative tannins.
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6329 CINQUEVITI, LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL VESUVIO DOP BIANCO, 2025 Medium lemon hue with a dash of pink. The nose shows ripe peach and nectarine, which slowly morphs into notes of leafiness and red flowers. On the palate, there is textural richness to accompany the weighty stone fruit. With its grippy finish, this feels suitable for pairing with a hearty traditional dish like Gnocchi alla Sorrentina. 2027-2029–hm. Falanghina, Coda di Volpe. 13%, [>3.00]. $45
$45
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6331 JOE AGLIANICO POMPEIANO IGP, AGLIANICO BIO, 2024 Near opaque purple hue. One rarely plumps for Aglianico without a preference for bold tannins. True to form, this has them. Pure fruit flavours of plum and cranberry jostle with green peppercorn, bound by lively acidity. This is good to go and crying out for a ribeye steak. 2027-2028–ja. Aglianico, 13%. $45
— ITALY VOLCANIC WINES
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COMMUNITY
EVENTS REGISTER NOW! Join us for an intimate tasting experience featuring a curated selection of Opimian Cellar wines—chosen for their elegance, rarity, and character. Connect with fellow members and wine lovers for an evening of discovery and conversation.
At these events, you’ll: • Explore Cellar-Worthy and Drink Now wines from distinguished producers • Enjoy a guided tasting with wine expert Michael Palij MW • Discover the stories behind each bottle We look forward to raising a glass with you and celebrating the exceptional wines of the Opimian Cellar. Register for Opimian events at https://opimian.ca/events/ September 21: Montreal, QC September 22: Ottawa, ON September 23: Toronto, ON September 25: Winnipeg, MB November 18: St. John’s, NL November 19: Fredericton, NB November 20: Moncton, NB November 21: Halifax, NS
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TRAVEL The spirit of discovery carries forward into 2027, as Opimian members prepare to embark on not one but two extraordinary European journeys — tracing the effervescent grandeur of Champagne and Burgundy in the spring, and the sun-drenched hillsides of Tuscany come autumn. Each tour is a destination unto itself, as rich in history and culture as it is in world-class wine. As always, Opimian Travels brings members far more than a guided tour. Every itinerary is crafted to place travellers at the very centre of these celebrated regions — behind cellar doors, across harvest tables, and in conversation with the producers who have dedicated their lives to the land. Exclusive visits to Opimian producers, private tastings, vineyard walks, and long meals shaped by local tradition are woven into every journey, offering a depth of experience that no guidebook can replicate. Both tours will be led by Michael Palij MW, whose expertise and passion for the wines of Europe bring an unparalleled layer of insight and storytelling to every stop along the way.
SAVE THE DATE TOUR 1 — Champagne & Burgundy with Michael Palij MW Week of May 3, 2027 TOUR 2 — Tuscany with Michael Palij MW Week of October 18, 2027 And later in 2027, the Opimian community will come together closer to home, as members from across Canada gather to celebrate the shared passions — wine, travel, and friendship — that have always been at the heart of what makes Opimian unlike anything else. Each journey is a celebration of discovery, connection, and the enduring relationships that define the Opimian experience.
$40
$50
ITALY
PROSECCO
Zucchetto Prosecco has staked its success on being unapologetically uncomplicated, a triumph of fruitiness over complexity. Appealing as this is, there is definitely more to it, and no one does heritage better than Carlo Zucchetto. His vintagedated wines have much verve and are crafted, somewhat fittingly, in the World Heritage Site of Valdobbiadene, recognized for its distinctive hilly, anthropized landscape. Each tells its own story, from the Col Fondo (effectively the same as France’s méthode ancestrale and meaning ‘with the bottom bit’), a dry ode to days gone by, to his illustrious Cartizze – the heavenly epicentre of Prosecco, where land prices regularly top $2.5m per hectare. There is a place for easy-going Prosecco, but your curiosity will reward you when you discover Zucchetto.
6308 ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE DOCG FRIZZANTE BOTTLE FERMENTED LIVÈI, 2025 This 'Col Fondo' style of Prosecco flies in the face of the “chill it down and drink it young” Prosecco mantra. Made in the traditional method and not disgorged, it stays on the fine lees until you, Dear Reader, decide to open it! Slightly cloudy and with more intense aromas of brioche, red apple, apricot and sweet almond, the lees allow this to develop gracefully for a number of years. I've enjoyed many vintages, and it packs on interesting complexity with age, including pastry notes, vanilla and even red fruit. Moreover, it’s a conversation starter at any dinner party. The trick is to pour slowly to avoid unduly disturbing the sediment. 2027-2030–mp. Glera. 11%, [0.50]. $55
6309 ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE DOCG SUPERIORE EXTRA BRUT PUROFOL, 2025 Pale lemon. A fresh, zingy Valdobbiadene with a lovely saline note on the front palate amid waves of crunchy Granny Smith apple; pithy lemon peel lends a measure of sophistication. With its nuanced finish, this is difficult to beat at this price. 2027-2028–ja. Glera. 11.5%, [0.80]. $60
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photo — Carlo Zucchetto (right) is the third generation to work at Azienda Agricola Paolo Zucchetto, carrying forward a family tradition dedicated to crafting some of the world's finest wines.
6310 ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE DOCG SUPERIORE DI CARTIZZE EXTRA BRUT, 2025 Cartizze is the handkerchief-sized vineyard (105 Ha) just above Valdobbiadene. It is impossibly steep and has, since records began, been credited with producing the finest Prosecco of all. It's still tank method and still 100% Glera but this patch of land produces grapes with an extra gear: pear, apple, melon and quince are all here, but there is also a whiff of something more exotic like lychee and green mango. Carlo insists on making this with a very low dosage and so, if you like your fizz bone dry, this is the one for you. It is expensive for Prosecco, but Cartizze has always commanded a significant premium due to the difficulty involved in harvesting the grapes. Having said that, it is very long and impeccably balanced, with lemony acidity and a creamy finish. 2027-2030–mp. $70 Glera. 11.%, [1.00].
ZUCCHETTO PROSECCO DOC EXTRA BRUT BACCARAT ROSE, 2026 6311 ZUCCHETTO PROSECCO DOC EXTRA BRUT BACCARAT ROSE & VALDOBBIADENE DOCG SUPERIORE EXTRA DRY SORAMARNE : 3 BOTTLES EACH READ THE FULL TASTING NOTES ONLINE
ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE DOCG SUPERIORE EXTRA DRY SORAMARNE, 2026
$50
TASTING NOTES AVAILABLE AT OPIMIAN.CA
MAGNUM MIXED CASE 6312 ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE DOCG SUPERIORE EXTRA BRUT PUROFOL AND VALDOBBIADENE DOCG SUPERIORE DI CARTIZZE MAGNUMS: 3 BOTTLES EACH ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE DOCG SUPERIORE EXTRA BRUT PUROFOL ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE DOCG SUPERIORE DI CARTIZZE EXTRA BRUT READ THE FULL TASTING NOTES ONLINE
$125
photo — For every thousand bottles of Prosecco, barely a handful are magnums. Add Cartizze fruit from Valdobbiadene's 108 hectares of grand cru and this becomes one of the scarcest ways to drink Prosecco.
— PROSECCO ZUCCHETTO
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ITALY
ASTI
Asti is best known for Moscato, but the region is broad, with Dolcetto, Freisa, Grignolino, Malvasia and Barbera all carrying the Asti name. Barbera is grown on the best vineyard sites, giving a depth and ripeness that surpasses its historic and perhaps ordinary reputation as the “people’s wine”. The ‘80s and ‘90s saw a steady lowering of yields and increased confidence with the use of oak – something which is very much on display in Noi Vignaioli Piemontesi’s composed Barbera d'Asti Superiore. Grignolino is rare, producing pale, alpine-toned reds with firm, fine tannins. Tenuta Santa Caterina’s ‘Arlandino’ is an authoritative example, showing wild strawberry and rosemary character. The Freisa variety, for its part, usually comes as a pink, sparkling cousin of Moscato – yet ‘SorìdiGiul’ is a revelation, all sophistication and concentration. Moscato is well worth another look. The aromatics in Bricco Ciarla’s offering verge on hedonistic, yet the acidity strikes a fine balance. At 5% alcohol, it offers plenty of possibilities.
THE FIVE PERCENT SOLUTION: A WINE YOU CAN POUR AT LUNCH AND STILL GET THINGS DONE.
LOW ABV
6334 NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI BARBERA D'ASTI SUPERIORE DOCG, 2024 Ruby hue. A full-bodied and elegant wine that offers both firm tannins and good balance. Plum and dried red current play with savoury notes of cured meats in complex and inviting fashion. There is a well-integrated sweet vanilla note to finish, and this is a wine for many occasions. 20272028–ja . Barbera. 14.5%. $45
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6340 BRICCO CIARLA MOSCATO D'ASTI DOCG, 2025 Water white with hints of green. When Moscato d'Asti is good, it is very, very good. Boisterous notes of honeysuckle, ripe peach, candied peach and Meyer lemon provide a refreshing experience, along with the intense grapiness that one might expect and timely acidity to balance the obvious sweetness. 2027–ja. Moscato Giallo. 5.5%, [133.00]. $40 photo — Young winemakers Massimo Marcarino (left) and Matteo Franchi (right) from Bricco Ciarla, the Langhe estate Massimo's grandfather purchased in 1962 — now shaped by two childhood friends honouring the land and its traditions.
6333 SORÌDIGIUL FREISA D'ASTI DOC SUPERIORE, 2019 Medium garnet hue. An atypical style of Freisa, which, usually, is a light and frothy wine. Serious, concentrated stuff, with complex leather notes alongside dried strawberry and fine, firm tannins adding structure. The fruit always takes centre stage and the acidity is well-judged. Should age well. 2027-2032–ja. Freisa d'Asti. 14%. $90
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6332 ARLANDINO, GRIGNOLINO D'ASTI DOC, 2025 Light garnet hue. Vibrant, open nose revealing an array of red fruit including juicy strawberry, raspberry and aromatic red cherry. The palate continues to entertain, adding the savouriness of woody herbs in layered complexity, while the finish is tannic (sirloin steak lovers take note). 2028-2032–hm. Grignolino d'Asti. $55 14%.
— ASTI TENUTA SANTA CATERINA
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ITALY
PIEMONTE
If there is one region in Italy that to me is above all the others, it is Piemonte, as the wines produced there come in so many intriguing styles. Among the most versatile, Barbera and Dolcetto shine bright. Barbera is known for its vivacious acidity, soft mouthfeel and plump red fruitiness, making for an easy choice when dining. It lifts almost any dish up; on a hot summer’s day, try it chilled. Dolcetto, for its part, has firmer tannic grip and a darker-fruited nature. It is often best drunk young. Cast aside the long (and impressive) shadow of Nebbiolo, for one is only in on the full picture when given the opportunity to experience these industrious starlets.
6336 NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI PINEROLESE DOC ROSSO, 2025 Medium purple hue. The open nose reveals a myriad of ripe berries such as bramble, juicy dark cherry, bilberry and red plum. Fresh acidity on the palate supports soft, approachable fruit, such as bilberry, ripe bramble and raspberry, with mellow, accessible tannins. 2027-2030–hm. Barbera, other authorized Piedmontese red grapes. 13%. $30
REGION FOR THIS CELLAR
6314 CÀ GIALLA BARBERA D'ALBA DOC, 2025 Medium ruby with dash of purple. Opens with forward aromatics of red and dark plum, ripe raspberry, bramble and herbal notes. The rich mid-palate, brimming with ripe plums and juicy raspberries, is enticing and supple, with the acidity to create momentum for a few years yet. 2027-2030–hm. Barbera. 14.5%. $40
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6318 TERRA PIEMONTE DOC BARBERA, 2025 Medium ruby hue with purple rim. Vibrant hibiscus lifts the plum and raspberry heart to another level, with fine tannins and a whisper of caramel oak to finish. A grown-up wine, with layer upon layer to discover. 2027–ja. Barbera. 13.5%. $40
ALSO AVAILABLE AS A MIXED CASE — NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI, 2 BOTTLES EACH: ROSATO, BARBERA, DOLCETTO. LOT 6355
6337 NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI PIEMONTE DOC BARBERA, 2025 Ruby hue. The nose bursts with jammy fruitiness and red florals, offering sweet cherry, red plum and raspberry. On the palate, there is plenty of ripe red fruit, such as raspberry and cooked plum, with moderate tannins that grip just a little and some forest floor notes which add structure, although it is not lacking in acidity and lingers long on the palate. 2027$30 2031–hm. Barbera. 13.5%.
6338 NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI PIEMONTE DOC DOLCETTO, 2025 6335 NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI PIEMONTE DOC ROSATO, 2025 Pale cherry hue. A joyous wine full of soft red fruits and lifted aromatics – red cherry and wild strawberry dominate. The palate is loaded with juicy fruit and accompanied by soft acidity, finishing with a touch of wonderfully contrasting dry cranberry. 2027–ja. Barbera, other authorized Piedmontese red grapes. 13%.
Ruby hue. An initial hit of primary fruit, including red and black cherry, forest bilberry and fresh raspberry develops into garrigue notes. The confident palate leads out firm, grippy tannins that keep the ship afloat, finishing with some refreshing acidity. 2027-2032–hm. Dolcetto. 13.5%. $30 $30
— PIEMONTE NOI VIGNAIOLI PIEMONTESI
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ITALY
NEBBIOLO
Nebbiolo is native to Piemonte and has been recognised there for almost 800 years. The late-ripening red variety is inevitably granted the region’s best sites and makes extremely complex, ageworthy, rather seductive reds. It can be demanding at first – all uncompromising tannins, high acidity and brooding savouriness, but when given enough chances, it allures you to love it (and you will never let go). Nebbiolo’s homeland is the Langhe, and a wine labelled ‘Langhe Nebbiolo’ is usually a safe bet to be enjoyed in its youth. If more staying power is required, the hillsides of Barbaresco and Barolo offer examples with huge concentration yet a certain perfumed finesse, which age gracefully. If there is one variety to keep in mind when stocking up on the wines of Italy, it is unquestionably Nebbiolo.
PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR
6313 CÀ GIALLA LANGHE NEBBIOLO DOC, 2024 One often hears that Nebbiolo tannins are hard to tame, but that may be missing the point: if tannins are not your game, this is probably not going in the basket! Excellent value, showing depth of flavour, silky texture and precise power. There are flavours of plum and prune alongside savoury notes, finishing with a satisfying herbal twist. 2027-2035–ja. Nebbiolo. 13.5%. $45
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6341 BRICCO CIARLA LANGHE NEBBIOLO DOC, TREVIGLIE, 2024 Light garnet hue. Rather classical nose combining red apple, cranberry, tar and dry earth. On the palate, a touch of spiciness adds to the otherwise tightly wound core of cranberries and strawberries, with support from ripe tannins. This has cellaring potential. 20272033–hm. Nebbiolo. 13.5%. $50
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CELLAR 339 — CANADA
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6342 BRICCO CIARLA BARBARESCO DOCG, FERRERE, 2023 Medium ruby with garnet rim. Approachable, open nose of ripe strawberry and raspberry joined by a certain herbaceousness and tree bark character. The full-bodied palate is marked by dusty tannins that are out in force, with an underbelly of pure fruit and spices just waiting to escape. This has the acidity to go the distance. 2030-2038–hm. Nebbiolo. 15%. $75
6319 TERRA LANGHE DOC NEBBIOLO, 2024 Light garnet hue. Intriguing, profound nose of sweet spice, ripe red apple and dried cranberry. The palate delivers on its promises, with earthiness adding gravitas to the dried fruit character and amply supported by finegrain, well-judged tannins. 2027-2032–hm. Nebbiolo. 13.5%. $50
BARBARESCO'S WARMER SLOPES AND LIGHTER SOILS SOFTEN NEBBIOLO'S FAMOUS GRIP INTO PERFUME AND SILK.
Vigin have produced two wines of remarkable freshness: Cottà is the more classical, showing herbs and red fruits framed by firm Nebbiolo tannins, while Montersino is plush, with that extra texture melding a little with the tannins. VIGIN COTTÀ BARBARESCO DOCG, 2022 Medium ruby with garnet rim. The layered nose is quite developed, showing sweet oaky spices, fresh and dried cherry fruit, bay leaf and earthiness. High acidity anchors the full-bodied, ripe palate with its grippy tannins, making for a classical style that remains approachable. 2027-2038–hm. Nebbiolo. 14%. 6339 VIGIN BARBARESCO CASE - 3 BOTTLES EACH: COTTÀ AND MONTERSINO Two elegant Barbarescos from Azienda Agricola Vigin – a family estate, founded in 1947 by a teetotaller, that has been making wines since 2002 from a modest five hectares spread across the MGAs (Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva, or subzone) of Cottà and Montersino. 2022 was a nail-biter in Barbaresco, significant water stress issues causing a challenge, and very short harvest windows keeping the growers on their toes. Nevertheless,
VIGIN MONTERSINO BARBARESCO DOCG, 2022 Pale brick red with orange rim. There is an almost New World sweetness to the red cherry fruit on the mid-palate, which offers a parting shot of savoury notes and rosemary that reminds you of its origin. This plusher style tries to envelop the tannins, but they still find a way out. A wine with a whole lot of time ahead of it. 2028-2039–ja . Nebbiolo. 14.5%. $94
— NEBBIOLO VIGIN
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VINI DI LUCA I have been fascinated by Etna’s imposing, mystical landscape ever since my first visit in 1991, long before the journalists (and the money) arrived. It is an other-worldly landscape with lava flows, stunted vegetation, ancient vines and a snow-capped peak that tops out at 3300 metres. Away from the volcano’s western and southern flanks, the preferred pathways for more recent lava flows, the entire lower slopes (up to 1000 metres or so) are divided into a patchwork of viticultural communes distinctly reminiscent of the Burgundian climats. Known locally as contrada, they reflect the myriad potential that Etna’s ever-changing aspect and exposure bring. When I discovered Luca Zumbo’s artisanal family operation, located in Contrada Grasà near Lingualossa on the northern slope of Etna, I was transfixed by the sheer purity of fruit. His winemaking is a fast-track insight into an age-old way of life: there is no irrigation, tillage is manual and, as one might assume, winemaking is natural. Nothing could be more terroir specific – and that’s before I mention the grape varieties which are native to Etna and rarely found elsewhere. His wines have unique character, shaped by rugged climatic influences that one can only find on the slopes of Europe’s largest active volcano.– – michael palij, mw.
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VIRGOLA BIANCO Luca’s Carricante is made from young vines planted in the late 2010s. The Contrada Zottorinoto, is just west of his Nerello Mascalese vineyard in Grasà. At roughly 650m, it is perfect for Carricante, bringing out the grape’s natural aromatics and preserving its crisp acidity. Emphasis is on fruit purity: free-run juice only, followed by fermentation with natural yeasts; maturation is 5 months in tank with twice weekly bâtonnage, natural clarification and no filtration. There’s no hiding place in the cellar: Luca achieves a wonderfully saline-zesty style that has few parallels – perhaps Santorini’s Assyrtiko is the closest match. Production is just 800 bottles per year.
6315 VINI DI LUCA VIRGOLA BIANCO TERRE SICILIANE IGT, 2024 Luca Zumbo's tiny vineyard of Carricante is planted just outside the DOC of Etna, near Lingualossa. These are young vines, but they seem to have already hit their stride, no doubt helped along by the altitude (650 metres) and the impoverished volcanic soils. The nose opens with candied lemon, lime juice, acacia, green apple and a smoky note (aided by the power of suggestion!). There is
a languid generosity from lees contact that works with the fresh acidity to produce a truly jaw-dropping finish. As always, low yields are key to Luca's wines. Let it age a few years (Etna whites have a phenomenal capacity to develop in bottle), and you'll be rewarded with notes of ginger, orange peel, mimosa and acacia. 2027-2031– mp. Carricante. 12.5%. $88
6316 VINI DI LUCA VIRGOLA ROSSO ETNA DOC, 2023 This was the wine that stopped me in my tracks at the Shalai wine bar in Lingualossa. I had been to Etna dozens of times, tasted with all the rock-star winemakers and imported a fair few over the years. Yet nothing prepared me for the combination of elegance and complexity that Luca musters from this tiny patch of centenarian vines. The nose is pure Pinot*, with wild strawberry, rhubarb, red currant and cherry, but there is something else as well, something more earthy and
intoxicating, base and wild: notes of flint, woodsmoke, liquorice, tobacco, wet leaves and dried herbs all weave their way into the nose. The palate picks up the 14.5% ABV and runs with it – as if anything could dare challenge this amount of fruit. I have no idea how long this can age – possibly forever – but I'm not sure I care; it's completely delicious now. * For the record, it's Nerello Mascalese. 2027-2033–mp. Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio. 14.5%. $96
COLLECTOR’S CORNER
RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR
CENTENARIAN VINES, A NOSE OF PURE PINOT NOIR GONE WILD, AND AGING POTENTIAL MICHAEL PALIJ CALLS POSSIBLY FOREVER.
ETNA ROSSO The first thing to note about the Rosso’s vines is their age: these are more than 100 years old. They are the remnants of Luca’s grandfather’s estate, a tenant farmer who split his land between his three sons. Salvatore, Luca’s father, held on to his patch for a reason. The variety here, Nerello Mascalese, likely has some Sangiovese DNA, though it differs in its mineral-driven nature and light(ish) body. With a delicate red fruit nose and bright acidity, it is potentially the closest the world gets to a doppelganger for Pinot Noir. The fruit is de facto organic and dryfarmed. The must undergoes a 12day maceration on the skins, in tank, with fermentation via native yeasts and without temperature control followed by a gentle pressing. Maturation keeps it clean: 4 months in steel, 10 months in used oak tonneaux. On the palate it achieves the near impossible: high alcohol mated to exceptionally delicate and complex aromatics - think Lauren Bacall in The African Queen. – michael palij, mw.
— CELLAR 339 COLLECTOR’S CORNER
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