C284-YT: Spain

CELLAR ORDER MAR 30 - MAY 3, 2021

SPAIN Opimian.ca

YT 284

FEATURED PRODUCERS

DELIVERY WILL BE

EARLY FALL 2021

THEIR MOST POPULAR OPIMIAN WINES

P9 CASA DE LÚCULO

P10 BODEM BODEGAS

P14 CAVA

P16 BODEGAS CONCAVINS

JARDÍN DE LÚCULO LOS BOHEMIOS, DO NAVARRA, BODEGAS LA CASA DE LÚCULO, 2020, LOT 2447, P9

OXTE THE SILENCE, LEAF, DO CARIÑENA, BODEM BODEGAS, 2020, LOT 2450, P10

LEONOR DE CARRERA BRUT, TRADITIONAL METHOD, DO CAVA, LOT 2479, P15

MONTBLANC 362 TEMPRANILLO/CABERNET SAUVIGNON, DO CATALUNYA, 2020, LOT 2465, P18

P32 HACIENDA ALBAE

P33 BODEGAS VALDUBÓN

P36 SPANISH PALATE

P38 BODEGAS SOLAR VIEJO

ALSÓN MALBEC, DO LA MANCHA, HACIENDA ALBAE, 2019, LOT 2489, P32

VALDUBÓN VERDEJO, DO RUEDA, BODEGAS VALDUBÓN, 2020, LOT 2509, P33

BOTAS DE BARRO, TEMPRANILLO, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, 2019, LOT 2494, P37

SOLAR VIEJO TEMPRANILLO, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS SOLAR VIEJO, 2020, LOT 2512, P38

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CELLAR 284 — YUKON

cover —Eugenie Van Ekeris and Louis Geirnaerdt

from Axial Vinos make premium Spanish wines with Dutch roots.

DIRECTORS’ CUT...........................................................................P5 JANE’S COUPS DE COEUR.....................................................P7 AXIAL VINOS......................................................................................P8 Bodegas La Casa de Lúculo...................................................P9 Bodem Bodegas...........................................................................P10 Bodegas Vallobera....................................................................... P11 Pagos del Moncayo..................................................................... P13 CAVA......................................................................................................P14 CLOS MONTBLANC.................................................................... P16 NEW VINOS Y VIÑEDOS MONTENEGRO................... P22 TOP VALUE WINES....................................................................P26 SPANISH BODEGAS..................................................................P28 Loess Vinos...................................................................................... P29 Bodegas D. Mateos....................................................................P30 Hacienda Albae............................................................................. P32 Bodegas Valdubón.................................................................... P33 Spanish Palate............................................................................... P36 Bodegas Solar Viejo................................................................... P38 FAMILIA BASTIDA.......................................................................P40 CELLAR UP!.....................................................................................P42 SPANISH EXCLUSIVES.............................................................P46 NEW Bodegas Zifar................................................................... P47 Viticultors del Priorat................................................................P48 NEW Bodegas Garcia de Lara............................................P49 NEW Flor del Páramo...............................................................P49 COLLECTOR’S CORNER.........................................................P50 WEB EXCLUSIVES............................................................. P52

P28 LOESS VINOS

P30 BODEGAS D. MATEOS

LOESS INSPIRATION, TEMPRANILLO EN ROBLE, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, BODEGAS MIGUEL Y RUANO, 2019, LOT 2481, P29

IN INCONSCIENTE TEMPRANILLO BLANCO, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS D. MATEOS, 2020, LOT 2486, P31

Cellar 284 SPAIN

P22 NEW PRODUCER VINOS Y VIÑEDOS MONTENEGRO

P40 FAMILIA BASTIDA RIO LILO SAUVIGNON BLANC - AIREN, DOP JUMILLA, 2020, LOT 2503, P40

Spain is a country with strong regional cultures developed over centuries with many influences leading to diverse traditions, cuisines and even languages. Modern Spanish cuisine, based on the country’s high-quality produce, is one of the finest in the world and makes exploring Spain a gastronomic delight. Spain also has the largest acreage planted to wine grapes than any other country. Old wine regions are being re-discovered with a passion and long forgotten vineyards revitalized. You will find that old vines and altitude are recurring themes this Cellar Offering and are often the key to producing truly special wines.

JANE MASTERS MW, OPIMIAN’S MASTER OF WINE Every wine offered by Opimian is tasted and selected for its deliciousness and value by our consultant Master of Wine, Jane Masters. Jane has an in-depth knowledge of the world of wine. Her aim is to share her experience and love of wine with members in an easy and informal manner. She is one of 408 Masters of Wine worldwide and was elected Chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine 2016-2018 by her peers.

— CELLAR 284

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EDITORIAL

Simply Spain

"Spain, the beautiful country of wine and songs." - Goethe

Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Co-Managing Directors

This Cellar is dedicated to the many and varied wines of southern Europe's largest country. You may be surprised to hear that Spain is the top global wine exporter in terms of volume. Take that, France! Opimian Members have long had a love affair with Spanish wines as well as French ones, so the Spanish offerings deserved their own Cellar.

Within these pages, we feature the ever-popular Tempranillo and Garnacha red varieties and Verdejo and Albariño whites. In addition, ancient, indigenous grapes have been finding their way back into Spanish wines. Canadian Master of Wine Louise Wilson MW writes about them on page 45. Long time friends of Opimian Axial Vinos (Spanish wines with Dutch roots) and Clos Montblanc (a stone’s throw away from the fortified city of Montblanc – centre of Catalan history) are back with your favourites as well as some new gems to try.

Our new partner, Vinos y Viñedos Montenegro, shares our passion for discovering small wineries producing wines of quality and character. Those selections include wines from the indigenous grapes we mentioned. Many others, too numerous to mention, once again passed Jane Masters MW’s rigorous tasting.

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CELLAR 284 — EDITORIAL

CAVA Cava, Spain’s answer to Champagne, made in the traditional method (second fermentation in the bottle to create the bubbles), gets its own section. The wonderful, persistent and refined mousse typical of Champagnes are yours at a fraction of the price. Now that’s worth celebrating!

As always, we have spent many months sourcing these Spanish wines, uniquely available to you in Canada. The Opimian community continues to grow around our shared joy of wine.

We are delighted to have heard from so many of you that you are enjoying the new format. Your calls and emails have painted a picture of Members reading through the Cellar’s articles, recipes, recommendations and, of course, wines on offer, while sipping your favourite Opimian wine. We are doing the same.

We raise a glass to all of you and wish you good health.

Michael & Greg

DIRECTORS’ CUT MICHAEL’S PICKS

GREG & MICHAEL’S PICKS FOR THIS CELLAR OFFERING

IN INSOLENTE GRACIANO, DOCA, RIOJA, BODEGAS D. MATEOS, 2019 LOT 2485, P30

LEONOR DE CARRERA BRUT, TRADITIONAL METHOD, DO CAVA LOTS 2479-2480, P15

MAS DE SUBIRÀ, VI DE GUARDA, DOQ PRIORAT, BODEGAS VITICULTORS DEL PRIORAT, 2019, LOT 2519, P48

MEDIANÍAS, LISTÁN NEGRO, VIJARIEGO NEGRO Y TINTILLA, DO VALLE DE LA OROTAVA, TENERIFE, BODEGAS SUERTES DEL MARQUES, 2019, LOT 2472, P23

YOU & ME ALBARIÑO, DO RÍAS BAIXAS, VIONTA, 2020, LOT 2518, P47

LOESS COLLECTION, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, BODEGAS MIGUEL Y RUANO, 2015, LOT 2499, P50

GREG’S PICKS

— CELLAR 284 DIRECTORS’ CUT

5

MASTER PIECE | FROM GRAPES TO GLASS PART 2

How is Wine Made? | Yeast and Fermentation Jane Masters MW is Opimian’s Master of Wine

At harvest time, the influence and skill of the winemaker shapes the flavour and style of wines made. Winemakers decide what type of vessels to ferment in, what yeast to use, fermentation temperatures and a whole host of other things.

Stainless steel and concrete tanks are inert in terms of flavour, whereas fermenting in oak can impart vanilla, coconut and/or toasty characters depending on the size and age of the vessel.

The smaller the vessel, the higher the ratio of surface contact with the wine inside it. A large old oak tank gives much less flavour than fermenting in a new small 225-litre oak barrel. In recent years, there has been a trend for clay amphorae – while inert in terms of flavour, the porous clay, like wood, allows for some micro-oxygenation which in turn affects flavour.

Wine is usually fermented by yeast belonging to the Saccharomyces cerevisiae species – the same kind used in baking and beer production. There are many different strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae and some of these have been selected for their aromatic properties and ability to ferment under certain conditions of high sugar concentration, acidity and pH. Winemakers can use selected yeast strains, which ensure a regular and controlled fermentation, or let wild yeast present in the winery develop. Some great wines are produced from wild ferments; however, the results are less predictable.

As fermentation proceeds, a lot of heat and carbon dioxide gas are created. If the temperature gets too high, yeast die off; too low and the fermentation may be sluggish and stop.

Temperature affects yeast metabolism, hence the aromas produced, so winemakers maintain temperature at a desired level according to wine style. Light, fruity white wines may be fermented at 14°C. For richer fuller whites, the temperature may

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CELLAR 284 — MASTER PIECE

JANE’S COUPS DE COEUR be higher at around 20°C. Red wines are generally fermented at higher temperatures, with light, fruity reds at 20-25°C to maximize fermentation aromas. Fuller bodied and structured reds, made for keeping and often barrel aged, may ferment at 30°C and higher. In sparkling wine production, carbon dioxide produced from the fermentation may be captured to create the sparkle, but even still wines retain a certain amount which adds to the perception of acidity and freshness. At the end of fermentation, yeast drop to the bottom of the fermentation vessel and form “lees”. While no longer viable, lees can add mouthfeel and flavour to a wine by releasing mannoproteins.

Some winemakers keep wines on lees for a period and may also carry out “lees stirring” or “bâtonnage”, stirring up the sediment to increase contact and maximize the effect.

EVERYDAY DRINKING ME & YOU TEMPRANILLO, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, BODEGAS VALDUBÓN, 2020 , LOT 2510, P33

MONTBLANC 362 SELECCIÓ, DO CATALUNYA, 2018, LOT 2466, P18

Most red wines and some whites undergo “malolactic fermentation”, when malic acid naturally present in grapes (also found in sour green apples) is converted to lactic acid (present in milk) by lactic acid bacteria. This microbiological process reduces wine acidity, making the wine softer and more microbiologically stable. At the same time, other metabolites produced contribute to wine flavour – diacetyl has a creamy buttery aroma. The choice “to do or not to do” can have a big impact on wine style. For Chablis, known for its steely mineral style, malolactic fermentation is usually avoided. In a rich buttery Chardonnay, malolactic contributes to the richness and butterscotch flavour of the final wine – often in tandem with barrel fermentation.

Whether winemakers choose to inoculate selected strains of yeast and lactic acid bacteria or allow wild ferments to develop, microbiology lies at the heart of quality winemaking. To fully maximize the potential in harvested grapes, winemakers must also prevent unwanted micro-organisms that lead to spoilage and off flavours from developing. A judicious use of sulphites during winemaking, maturation and at bottling prevents spoilage of organisms, protects against oxidation and keeps a wine’s aroma fresh so it can be drunk in tip top condition.

CELLARING POTENTIAL ORUBE SELECCIÓN DE FAMILIA, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS SOLAR VIEJO, 2017, LOT 2517, P39

LOESS INSPIRATION, TEMPRANILLO EN ROBLE, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, BODEGAS MIGUEL Y RUANO, 2019, LOT 2481, P29

— CELLAR 284 JANE’S COUPS DE COEUR

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SPAIN

Axial Vinos CARIÑENA Dutch couple Louis Geirnaerdt and Eugenie van Ekeris founded Axial Vinos twenty-one years ago, driven by their love for Spanish wines and in particular the Garnacha grape variety. They now own three wineries in Cariñena, Borja and Navarra where they make premium wines.

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CELLAR 284 — YUKON

photo — Virginia Arranz, oenologist from Bodegas La Casa de Lúculo checking the ripeness of the grapes.

NEW

2448

LÚCULO ORIGEN, DO NAVARRA, BODEGAS LA CASA DE LÚCULO, 2018

NEW LOWER PRICE

2447

JARDÍN DE LÚCULO LOS BOHEMIOS, DO NAVARRA, BODEGAS LA CASA DE LÚCULO, 2020

Garnacha Garnacha $ 54.00

$ 324.00 $ 25.00

This limited-edition wine was produced from grapes from a selected single vineyard more than 90 years old: Santa Eufemia vineyard is located in Sada at 800 metres. It is a medium-bodied wine with savoury meaty characters combined with red fruits and vanilla. The grapes underwent maceration and fermentation in open 500-litre oak barrels, followed by malolactic and 12 months aging in new French oak. It is fine in texture with a fresh supple finish.

$ 150.00

Aromas of peonies, red apples, redcurrants and herbs lead to a supple medium-bodied palate. It is fine grained in texture and smooth with a firm acidity building to a crunchy redcurrant finish.

2021-2024, M8 D9 Savoury, meaty

18°C

Red fruits, vanilla, meaty

15.5%

Grilled bone-in rib eye with red wine reduction

DON'T MISS AXIAL'S VERDEJO AND TEMPRANILLO ONLINE, LOTS 2460-2461.

BODEGAS LA CASA DE LÚCULO Bodegas La Casa de Lúculo is located in Mendigorría, in Navarra, in the north of Spain. Located to the west of the Pyrenees, this is Spain’s Basque country: a region with a strong cultural identity and its own language completely unrelated to other European languages. The winery, named after Lucius Licinius Lucullus, a gourmet of classical Rome in the first century, is renovated from an old cooperative built in the 1950s. Wines are made by Virginia Arranz from Garnacha and grown on old-bush vines in the “baja monte” area, where the Pyrenées have a strong influence on the climate.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Peonies, red apple, redcurrant

18°C

Redcurrants and herbs

13.5%

Fabada with chorizo

— SPAIN AXIAL VINOS

9

BODEM BODEGAS Bodem, meaning “earth” in Dutch, was founded by Louis Geirnaerdt and Eugenie Van Ekeris. The winery, located in The Cariñena region, specializes in Garnacha.

Wines are produced from vineyards in Valdejalón in the heart of Sierra de Algairén.

NEW LOWER PRICE

2449

NEW LOWER PRICE

OXTE THE SILENCE RED BLEND, SUNSET, DO CARIÑENA, BODEM BODEGAS , 2020 Tempranillo, Syrah, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon $ 26.00

$ 156.00

OXTE THE SILENCE, LEAF, DO CARIÑENA, BODEM BODEGAS, 2020

NEW

2451 Tempranillo, Garnacha $ 26.00

$ 156.00

A vibrant wine with aromas of mixed berries and floral rose-petal notes. It is supple and smooth with more berry flavours and a nice persistent bitter cherry and redcurrant finish. Each grape variety was fermented separately then matured in medium-toasted American and French oak barrels for two months.

Brimming with red fruits strawberries and raspberries with a touch of ginger. It is smooth and on the lighter side of medium bodied.

The supple mid palate is complemented with a nice acidity and flavours of red berries and cherries. Grapes were grown on old bush vines harvested by hand.

2021-2024, M8 D9

2021-2023, M8 D9

OXTE THE SILENCE GARNACHA, MASK, DO CARIÑENA, BODEM BODEGAS, 2019

Garnacha $ 37.00

$ 222.00

A restrained medium-bodied red with aromas of plums and soy sauce and subtle notes of red berries in the background. It has a fine silky texture and is supple – opening up to reveal savoury notes and a bitter cherry finish.

Louis believes Cariñena to be the birthplace of Garnacha, although this is disputed by others.

The wild, arid, eroded soils of the region, known as Marga, lie over calcareous bedrock.

Grapes came from selected vineyards between 425 and 750 metres. Twenty-five percent of the blend was matured in oak barrels and twenty-five percent in egg-shaped tanks with the balance in stainless steel tanks.

2021-2024, M8 D9

Floral, rose petal, mixed berries

18°C

Strawberries, raspberries, ginger

16°C

Plums, soy sauce, red berries

18°C

Bitter cherry, redcurrants

14.5%

Red berries, cherry finish

14.5%

Savoury notes, bitter cherries

15%

Quinoa with peppers and green chiles

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2450

CELLAR 284 — YUKON

Lentils braised in red wine

Grilled lamb chops with fig sauce and roasted potatoes

photo — Manual harvest at Bodem Bodegas, in DO Cariñena.

NEW

2454

VALLOBERA CRIANZA, DOCA. RIOJA, FAMILIA SAN PEDRO, BODEGAS VALLOBERA, 2018

Tempranillo $ 44.00

BODEGAS VALLOBERA Located in the Rioja Alavesa subregion, Bodegas Vallobera has 110 hectares of vineyards around the villages of Leza, Elvillar, Paganos, Navaridas, Elciego and Laguardia. The winery was established in the early 1990s by Javier San Pedro, who comes from a long line of grape growers in the region. Vineyard altitudes vary between 500 and 650 metres and the vines have an average age of 30 years.

$ 264.00

Oaky notes of cedar, pencil shavings and vanilla dominate dark-fruit aromas in the background. This is a concentrated wine, tight in structure and dense but currently not very expressive.

It is medium to full bodied with a supple mid palate and a tart blackberry finish and should develop nicely, opening up to reveal more complex flavors with time. Grapes were grown close to Laguardia.

2022-2028, M6 D7 Cedar, pencil shavings, black fruits

18°C

Vanilla, blackberries

14%

Venison with Romesco sauce

NEW

2455

VALLOBERA GRACIANO, DOCA. RIOJA, FAMILIA SAN PEDRO, BODEGAS VALLOBERA, 2017

Graciano $ 62.00

$ 372.00

2021-2030, M6 D8 Spicy, white pepper, meat

18°C

Green herbs, cranberries, redcurrants

14.5%

Standing rib roast with Madeira horseradish

photo — The Vallobera winery in Rioja.

Intense spicy aromas with white pepper, meat and a slight whiff of calfskin over red fruits and fresh green herbs.

This is a medium-bodied wine with sour berry-fruit flavours, cranberries, redcurrants and rhubarb. Graciano grapes were cultivated at 600 metres, picked and left to macerate for three days at low temperature. The fermentation was followed by malolactic in barrel and 18 months maturation in new French toasted oak barrels.

Graciano is a relatively rare variety but was more widely planted in the 19th century, pre-phylloxera, and is currently witnessing something of a renaissance. This is a great example.

— SPAIN AXIAL VINOS

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PRODUCERS' CORNER

Axial Vinos | A Dream Realized In 1999, Eugenie van Ekeris, a lawyer, and her husband Louis Geirnaerdt, geologist and experienced wine export manager, founded Axial Vinos in Spain. They wanted to fulfill their dream of making wine themselves.

Eugenie had no formal wine training nor spoke a word of Spanish. Yet she felt that she had to take on this new venture. The couple started by helping out wineries with sales and getting involved in the entire process, from the distribution and sales to the marketing and elaboration of the wines.

After years of collaboration, Eugenie and Louis took over the winery Pagos del Moncayo in 2011, expanded their business with La Casa de Lúculo in 2013 and in 2016, their dream finally came true: they became the proud owners of their own bodega, Bodem Bodegas in Almonacid de la Sierra, DOP Cariñena. Today, Axial Vinos is composed of a team of 22 professionals led by Eugenie and Louis.

Each of their wineries is located in a different region – they are all independent from each other, with their own winemaker and team, and own style and character. “Garnacha is the grape with which we started with in 1999 in the area of

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CELLAR 284 — TITLE

Aragon. It is a very versatile grape. It shows different styles and aromas when the soils, the altitude, the climate are distinct or particular winemaking techniques are used. "We have over 20 years of experience in making Garnacha grape-based wines in different regions of Spain” says Eugenie. All the wineries craft their wines with respect for the terroir, local grape growing methods and vinification.

Throughout their journey, Eugenie and her husband faced different challenges both in the vineyards and in the wineries.

Even though they possess extensive experience in wine export, they didn’t know much about operations or vinification so gaining trust among their customers was essential.

Today, they are focusing on premium wines and moving towards digital marketing while aiming to be more sustainable and to have less impact on the environment. They are even in the process

READ OUR Q&A WITH EUGENIE AND GET HER SHELLFISH STEW RECIPE ON OUR BLOG.

of transforming all their vineyards into organic ones. What inspires Eugenie to persevere is Virginia Arranz, the winemaker from La Casa de Lúculo. She is always happy to explain and educate young professionals and she never gives up.

Just like Opimian Members, Eugenie likes preparing food and entertaining at home with family and friends. Her favourite pairings are crisp, fresh and fruity medium bodied white wines with no oak aging or a Cava combined with a black rice and squid dish in the summer. For reds, she likes full-bodied wines with aromas of herbs, dark red fruit flavours and tobacco with “Ternasco” and oven roasted potatoes (“Ternasco” is a famous local lamb shoulder recipe from Aragon).

“I am an absolute wine lover and I appreciate the most when my wines are enjoyed together with other people. Wine is not abo ut attracting attention but about being remembered,” concludes Eugenie.

VALLOBERA GRACIANO, DOCA. RIOJA, FAMILIA SAN PEDRO, BODEGAS VALLOBERA, 2017, LOT 2455, P11

PAGOS DEL MONCAYO Pagos del Moncayo produces small quantities of hand-crafted wines.

The winery is part of a European study for innovation to reduce the environmental impact in wine production. It is not connected to the electrical grid but is powered by solar energy.

LA GRANJA 360 CAVA BRUT, DO PENEDÈS, BODEGA PARXET, LOT 2456, P14

OXTE THE SILENCE GARNACHA, MASK, DO CARIÑENA, BODEM BODEGAS, LOT 2451, P10

NEW

PRADOS FUSIÓN GARNACHA & SYRAH, DO CAMPO DE BORJA, BODEGA PAGOS DEL MONCAYO, 2020

Garnacha, Syrah $ 39.00

2452

$ 234.00 $ 73.00

2453

$ 219.00

A vibrant wine with oodles of flavour. Red berry and cherry aromas lead to a supple, smooth palate with a fine texture and linear structure. The same flavours sing through on the palate. This is a silky wine, medium bodied yet easy drinking with a powdery finish. Garnacha and Syrah grapes were grown in the lower parts of Campo de Borja at Magallón at 350 to 450 metres. Yields are strictly controlled and grapes picked by hand then fermented in open top vats with traditional treading of grapes.

2021-2024, M7 D9 Red berries, cherries

18°C

Cherries

15%

Beef short rib with sherry glaze

photo — XXX

— SPAIN AXIAL VINOS

13

SPAIN

Cava Spaniards enjoy a good glass of Cava, whatever the occasion. Spain has produced Cava since the 19th century after Josep Raventós was inspired by a visit to the Champagne region in France.

Cava is made using the same Traditional Method as for Champagne but from Spanish grape varieties – Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo; lately, some producers include a proportion of Chardonnay. Black grapes Garnacha, Pinot Noir and the local specialty Trepat are used to make rosé Cavas.

By law, Cava must be kept on its yeast lees for at least nine months, although better ones are kept for longer. Most is produced in the Penedès area, with the large Cava producers based in the town of Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, west of Barcelona. Smaller producers, in localized pockets within Penedès, are making high quality distinctive Cavas.

NEW

2456

LA GRANJA 360 CAVA BRUT, DO PENEDÈS, BODEGA PARXET

Xarel-lo, Parellada, Macabeo, Chardonnay $ 32.00

$ 192.00

2021-2022, M8 D9 Biscuit, oatmeal, peach

6°C

Nectarines, lemon citrus, [D]

11.5%

Manchego, olives, nuts and jamon

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CELLAR 284 — YUKON

Pale in colour, La Granja 360 displays streams of fine bubbles in the glass. On the nose peachy fruit aromas are complemented by biscuit and oatmeal notes. It has a soft creamy texture with nectarine flavours and lingering lemon citrus notes. Its style is elegant and dry. Grapes were grown in the Alella region, close to the Mediterranean coast and 20 kilometres north of Barcelona city. Produced

by Bodega Parxet, the blend includes traditional grape varieties with some Chardonnay and was matured for a minimum of 12 months on lees.

2508

TORRE DEL GALL BRUT ROSÉ, MÉTODO TRADICIONAL, DO CAVA

Trepat, Garnacha $ 28.00

2462

MONTBLANC 362 BRUT RESERVA CAVA, MÈTODE TRADICIONAL, DO CAVA

LEONOR DE CARRERA BRUT, TRADITIONAL METHOD, DO CAVA

Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada $ 168.00

$ 30.00

$ 180.00

Deep and vibrant pink in colour, Torre del Gall was produced from 80% Trepat – a local black grape variety – with 20% Garnacha. It has floral aromas mixed with strawberries and redcurrants.

More fruits come through on the palate with a full and foaming mousse. The Torre del Gall (“Cockerel Tower”) winery was designed by Catalan architect Oscar Tusquets and has a lake on the roof to maintain a cool and constant ambient temperature within.

Pale in colour, it has aromas of fresh limes and almonds.

On the palate, it is quite broad in structure. The Conca de Barberà region was renowned for the quality of its Cava by locals-in-the-know long before it developed its current reputation for still wines. Conca means “basin” and this region, carved out from the Francolí and Anguera rivers, is surrounded and protected by mountains.

Vines are planted at altitude on soils high in limestone content. It was matured over 18 months on lees.

2021-2022, M8 D9

2021-2022, M8 D9

Floral, strawberries

6°C

Fresh limes, almonds

6°C

Redcurrants, [D]

12%

Grapey, [SD]

12%

Salmon cream tartlets

Xarel-lo, Macabeo, Parellada $ 33.00

2479

$ 198.00 $ 20.00

2480

$ 240.00

Produced from a traditional blend, Leonor de Carrera was matured on lees for more than 15 months and has developed some toffee and caramel flavours which complement fresh sherbet fruits. The estate at Castellví de la Marca, to the west, covers 35 hectares of vines planted on deep sand and clay soils poor in organic matter.

Winemaker Josep Maria Suriol promised his neighbour Leonor, who was born on the estate and tended the vines for many years, that he would continue her legacy.

Artichoke and fava bean salad

2021-2022, M8 D9 Toffee, caramel, sherbet, savoury

6°C

Crisp, biscuit, [D]

11.5%

Fried calamari with parsley aioli

photo — The incredible rise in quality and diversity in Spanish sparkling wine over the last 20 years has helped Cava gain the respect it deserves.

— SPAIN CAVA

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SPAIN

Clos Montblanc CATALONIA

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CELLAR 284 — YUKON

Located in Barberà de la Conca, in Catalonia, the winery is near the fortified city of Montblanc and the Santa Maria de Poblet monastery, which was founded by Cistercian monks from France in 1151. Carved out of the surrounding mountains which act to buffer the climate, the region has limestone soils. Josep Vadrí makes wines from 80 hectares of vines cultivated at up to 700 metres.

photo — Masia les Comes is the 18th century country house where the ancestors of the Carbonell family lived.

2464

MONTBLANC 362 ROSAT, DO CATALUNYA, 2020

Tempranillo, Trepat, Pinot Noir $ 150.00

$ 25.00

2463

MONTBLANC 362 MACABEU/ CHARDONNAY, DO CATALUNYA, 2020

Macabeu, Chardonnay $ 25.00

$ 150.00

Conca de Barberà was previously reputed for its sparkling Cava wines; hence, the traditional Macabeu grape is widely planted. Josep has combined it with 40% Chardonnay grapes grown on the highest-altitude vineyards. The 2020 has fresh apple and grapefruit aromas. It is medium bodied with quite a broad structure and nice citrus-pith finish.

This is an intensely coloured rosé wine produced from a blend of Tempranillo, Trepat and Pinot Noir. Cranberry and apple aromas are complemented with a subtle floral perfume. It is smooth with a supple mid palate and blackcurrant finish.

2021-2022, M8 D9

2021-2022, M8 D9

Apples, grapefruit

6°C

Cranberries, apple, floral

6°C

Citrus pith, [D]

12.5%

Blackcurrant, [D]

12.5%

Sautéed shrimp with lemon and parsley

Seafood paella

— SPAIN CLOS MONTBLANC

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2466

MONTBLANC 362 SELECCIÓ, DO CATALUNYA, 2018

Merlot, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan $ 28.00

$ 168.00

One of the highest scoring wines in the Cellar Offering in terms of value for money, it has aromas of sweet black fruits, blueberries and blackcurrants. It is soft and round on the palate with a fine velvet texture. More flavours of black cherry compote, vanilla and a touch of smoke emerge creating lots of appeal, good depth and length of flavour.

Produced from grapes from 20-30 year-old vines, it is an assemblage of 40% Merlot, 30% Grenache, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Carignan. It was matured for 16 months in French and American oak barrels and is perfectly ready for drinking.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Blueberries, blackcurrants

18°C

Black cherry compote, smoke

15%

Pan-seared sirloin with blackberry-balsamic pan jus

2465

MONTBLANC 362 TEMPRANILLO/ CABERNET SAUVIGNON, DO CATALUNYA, 2020

Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon

Deep in colour, it has aromas of violets and black cherries. This is a medium- to full-bodied wine, concentrated with a dense structure, ripe tannins and black cherry flavours. Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from ten-yearold vines were harvested separately. The wine spent two months in old barrels.

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CELLAR 284 — YUKON

$ 26.00

$ 156.00

2021-2024, M7 D9 Violets, black cherries

18°C

Black cherries

14%

Patatas bravas with crema and scallions

photo — Salvador Canela, transporting the Macabeu grape from the vineyard to the wine cellar during the 2020 harvest, is Clos Montblanc's production director.

NEW

2467

MONTBLANC 362 SYRAH/SAMSÓ, DO CONCA DE BARBERÀ, 2018

Samsó, Syrah $ 29.00

2468

MONTBLANC 362 GARRUT/ TREPAT, VI D'AUTOR, 2020

Garrut, Trepat $ 174.00

$ 35.00

$ 210.00

Garrut is the Catalan name for Monastrell, here blended with Conca de Barberà’s local Trepat grape producing a wine with black cherry and violet aromas. It is medium to full bodied with dark fruit flavours of blackcurrants and cherries. It was bottled early with no use of oak and has great mid-palate fruit.

2021-2025, M7 D8 Yogurt, violets

18°C

Black cherries, blackcurrants

13.5%

Veal chops with Cabrales cheese sauce

A wine with mellow vanilla and opulent dark fruit aromas, cream and cherry menthol.

It is medium bodied with quite a light mid palate and linear structure. More woody flavours emerge in the mouth leading to a grippy finish. Samsó – the local name for Carignan – and Syrah are cultivated on black slate and quartz soils known as “Llicorella” (similar to those found in the Priorato region) to produce just one kilogram of grapes for each vine.

2021-2024, M8 D9 Dark fruits, vanilla cream

18°C

Cherry menthol

14.5%

Chickpeas with morcilla, chicken and beef

photo — A jazz concert was held at Mas Vidal, an

18th century country house, to celebrate the harvest.

— SPAIN CLOS MONTBLANC

19

2469

MONTBLANC 362 CHARDONNAY, DO CATALUNYA, 2019

Chardonnay $ 41.00

2470

MONTBLANC 362 SYRAH, DO CONCA DE BARBERÀ, 2018

Syrah $ 246.00

$ 32.00

MONTBLANC 362 RESERVA, DO CONCA DE BARBERÀ, 2016

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot $ 192.00

An oaked Chardonnay, it is bright yellow in colour with intense spicy and toasted aromas combined with lemon curd, banana toffee and peaches. It is medium bodied, broad in style with lots of toasty fruit flavours and peaches with vanilla cream giving a rich spicy impression. Chardonnay was fermented in new French oak barrels from a variety of forests – Nevers, Tronçais and Allier.

Mellow oaky aromas of cola, vanilla and cinnamon combine with ripe black cherry aromas.

This is a medium-bodied wine, open and expressive and displaying ripe dark fruits and smoky flavours. It is rich and concentrated and was produced from a two-hectare plot next to the winery. After fermentation in tank, the wine underwent malolactic in French oak barrels and was then transferred to American oak barrels for 12 months of maturation.

2021-2023, M8 D9

2021-2025, M8 D9

Lemon curd, banana toffee, spicy oak

6°C

Cola, cinnamon, vanilla, black cherries

18°C

Toasty fruits, peaches, vanilla cream, [D]

14.5%

Ripe dark fruits, smoke

14.5%

Butter-seared scallops with Serrano ham and saffron

2471

$ 39.00

$ 234.00

Fresh green figs, green leaves with a touch of cedar and smoke are starting to morph into more complex tertiary notes of undergrowth.

It is smooth on the palate, dense with fine tannins and a balancing tart acidity adding length. With the seed of an idea for this wine in mind, the Carbonell family planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot on an eastfacing slope at 700 metres altitude in 1988.

Vines are farmed organically on clay loam soils. It was matured for months in barrel.

Lamb tagine with cinnamon and apricots

2021-2026, M7 D8 Green figs, cedar, smoke

18°C

Undergrowth

14.5%

Roast leg of lamb with mojo verde

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CELLAR 284 — YUKON

photo — The Grenache vineyard in autumn, located 700 m above sea level in front of the Mas Vidal house.

Q&A

Maria Urrutia Ybarra Vinos y Viñedos Montenegro

Maria Urrutia Ybarra from Vinos y Viñedos Montenegro belongs to the fifth generation of one of the oldest wineries in La Rioja. With Vinos y Viñedos Montenegro, she seeks to discover new artisanal wines and highlight lesser-known wine regions in Spain.

VÍA NOVA GODELLO, DO VALDEORRAS, VIRGEN DEL GALIR, LOT 2473, P24

TELL US ABOUT YOUR FAMILY AND ITS HISTORY.

ALL YOUR WINES ARE SUITABLE FOR VEGANS. IT THIS DELIBERATE?

The Urrutia family belong to CVNE, Compañia Vinicola de Norte de España, S.A. Our ancestors where the founders of CVNE back in 1879; we are the 5th generation. My brother Victor is the CEO. CVNE is known as a traditional producer of fine wines from Rioja. However, at Montenegro I try to produce wines unconstrained by tradition and free from the middlemen of the wine trade. We are a small team: Ignacio Soto, the winemaker, and myself, but we work closely with each winery, and their teams.

We care about how our wines are produced and want them to reflect the origins and the terroir they come from.

For this reason, we work hard with producers who look after their vineyards and avoid the use of pesticides. We also use he best clarifiers during bottling, which normally are vegetarian. We want our wines to be accessible to all our consumers; however, the vegan aspect is not necessarily deliberate but circumstantial. It is the individual wines which drive us.

HOW MANY SMALLER WINERIES DO YOU WORK WITH?

ARE WINEMAKING TRADITIONS IMPORTANT TO YOU?

We work with eight wineries around Spain. I work together with our winemaker who is responsible for the wine in each winery. I guide him in the process of what we are looking for, the style of the wine, the concept, the market and finally the branding of the wine.

My background and my family have shown me that traditions are important and need to be used correctly. Every grape variety, every plot has its own personality and can behave differently.

We adapt to each one and use the best methods. Those methods can be traditional or a combination of tradition and new techniques.

WHICH SPANISH WINE REGIONS SHOULD WINE LOVERS LOOK OUT FOR IN THE NEXT FEW YEARS?

Valdeorras is a small region with two different valleys and different soils and climate. Granite and schist, slate and gneiss soils are great for both reds and whites. This makes the region unique and with a great potential.

VIÑA LOBERA GRAN RESERVA, DOCA. RIOJA, LOT 2477, P25

WHAT IS YOUR ABSOLUTE FAVOURITE FOOD-WINE PAIRING?

My favourite meal is a Saturday family lunch. Lamb chops, roasted potatoes, and a red wine, which has a balance of fruit and acidity, like Viña Lobera Gran Reserva, DOCa. Rioja (lot 2477).

WHAT SPANISH GRAPE VARIETIES DO YOU THINK DESERVE MORE RECOGNITION?

AMONG THE WINES FEATURED BY OPIMIAN, WHICH ONE ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF? AND WHY?

Godello, a white variety with personality which produces very diverse wines.

Via Nova and Medianias, both projects reflect the place where they are produced, and I strongly recommend that everyone visit them when they can. You could never believe vines could grow here.

DESCRIBE YOUR PHILOSOPHY IN ONE WORD OR SENTENCE.

Open mind!

MEDIANÍAS, LISTÁN NEGRO, VIJARIEGO NEGRO Y TINTILLA, DO VALLE DE LA OROTAVA, TENERIFE, BODEGAS SUERTES DEL MARQUES, LOT 2472, P23

— CELLAR 284 Q&A

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SPAIN NEW PRODUCER

Vinos Y Viñedos Montenegro

22

CELLAR 284 — YUKON

The Urrutia family, owners of Vinos Y Viñedos Montenegro, founded one of the first wineries in Haro in Rioja in 1879, which to this day produces some of Rioja’s top wines. Maria Urrutia with her brother Victor are fifth-generation and have gone beyond the boundaries of Rioja to uncover and breathe life back into other historic wine regions in Spain.

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

photo — End of a fruitful harvest in Rioja..

SUERTES DEL MARQUÉS Located in the Canary Islands, Suertes del Marqués is a family winery founded in 2006. Working with native grape varieties and traditional vine training methods, the family use a low-intervention approach using indigenous yeasts, minimal racking and minimal amounts of sulfur.

A very special and really interesting wine: not only does it taste great, it has a great story to tell.

Made on the island of Tenerife, one of Spain’s Canary Islands some 2,000 kilometres south of mainland Spain off Africa’s Western Sahara, the climate is hot and dry. Produced from the Listán Negro grape grown in the Valle de la Orotava in the north of the island, the wine has intense white and grey-pepper aromas. It is soft and lush on the palate, quite light bodied with more peppery spicy flavours complemented by red fruits. The vines are approximately 80 years old planted on volcanic soils – the island is dominated by El Teide, an active volcano and Spain’s highest mountain. The wine was matured in wooden vats and large French oak barrels for approximately nine months.

photo — The vinification takes place for Medianias on Tenerife.

NEW

2472

MEDIANÍAS, LISTÁN NEGRO, VIJARIEGO NEGRO Y TINTILLA, DO VALLE DE LA OROTAVA, TENERIFE, BODEGAS SUERTES DEL MARQUES, 2019

Listán Negro $ 58.00

$ 348.00

2021-2024, M8 D9 White and grey pepper, spices

18°C

Red fruit, peppery, bitter almond

13%

Pan-roasted duck breast with honey and figs

— SPAIN VINOS Y VIÑEDOS MONTENEGRO

23

NEW

VIRGEN DEL GALIR Virgen del Galir winery lies in a valley of the Galir River in the small village of Éntoma on the pilgrim route of the Camino de Santiago in the south of the Valdeorras denomination. The winery has 36 hectares of vineyards in small plots on terraces and slopes above 600 metres.

2473

VÍA NOVA GODELLO, DO VALDEORRAS, VIRGEN DEL GALIR, 2020

Godello $ 35.00

$ 210.00

2021-2022, M8 D9 Apples, ink

6°C

Grapefruit, mineral, [D]

13%

A smooth white wine with broad structure, fresh grapefruit flavours and supple mineral finish: the Godello grape is back in fashion. On the verge of extinction, it is now growing in demand in its homeland, Galicia, in Spain’s northwest. Via Nova Godello grapes are grown on slopes with an inclination of 30% around Éntoma, Regueirón, Valdemioto and O Serro on mostly slate soils.

Crab cakes with red pepper crema

NEW

2474

VÍA NOVA MENCÍA, DO VALDEORRAS, VIRGEN DEL GALIR, 2019

Mencía $ 35.00

$ 210.00

Aromas of fresh herbs, cut grass with a hint of leather lead to a relatively light wine. Sour redcurrant and yogurt flavours emerge on the palate leading to a grippy astringent finish. Mencía is another grape variety on the up – found in Spain as well as Portugal where it is known as Jaen. Mencía was grown on terraced vineyards on clay and decomposed schist soils around the village of Éntoma, Valderrosal and Valdemioto.

2021-2024, M7 D8 Fresh cut grass, herbs, leather

18°C

Redcurrant, yogurt

13%

Beef stew with green olives and bell peppers

24

CELLAR 284 — YUKON

photo — Mencia grapes in Valdeorras.

VIÑA LOBERA The Urrutia family established one of the first wineries in Haro, in Rioja in 1879, and they own 600 hectares of vines in some of the most prestigious villages of Rioja Alta and Alavesa.

NEW

2476

NEW

VIÑA LOBERA CRIANZA, DOCA. RIOJA, 2017

Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo $ 35.00

$ 210.00

2477

VIÑA LOBERA GRAN RESERVA, DOCA. RIOJA, 2014

Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo $ 58.00

$ 348.00

NEW

2475

VIÑA LOBERA ROSADO, DOCA. RIOJA, 2020

Garnacha, Tempranillo, Viura $ 37.00

$ 222.00

A medium-bodied rosé from Rioja made from Garnacha, Tempranillo and Viura, it has redcurrants and rosehip flavours and supple mid palate. After picking, grapes were left for several hours on skins.

A dense and full-bodied wine, 2017 was characterized by low yields due to a late-spring frost and drought conditions.

Viña Lobera Crianza 2017 has a savoury character on the nose with some dusty oak notes. It is tight but opens up to reveal black fruits and smoky notes on the palate. A powerful wine produced from a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha Tinta and Mazuelo grown in the Rioja Alta. It was matured for a year in American oak barrels.

A classic style of Gran Reserva, it is quite light in weight whilst overall a medium-bodied wine. Oak and resin aromas precede a soft supple palate with vanilla, red fruits and cherry menthol flavours, a juicy acidity and lingering balsamic notes. It was matured in a combination of French and American oak barrels.

2022-2026, M6 D7

2021-2028, M7 D8

2021-2022, M8 D9 Redcurrants

6°C

Savoury, baked potato, dusty oak

18°C

Dusty, old oak, resin

18°C

Rosehip, pomegranate, [D]

12.5%

Black fruits, woodlands, smoke

13.5%

Red fruits, cherry menthol

13.5%

Tomato and goat cheese tart

photo — The Viña Lobera vineyards in Rioja. Viña Lobera is Maria's personal project.

Smoked brisket chili

Boar roast with Brandy de Jerez-cherry sauce

— SPAIN VINOS Y VIÑEDOS MONTENEGRO

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2457

MARQUESA DE ATIZA VIURA/ GARNACHA BLANCA, DO CARIÑENA, BODEM BODEGAS, 2020

Garnacha Blanca, Viura $ 23.00

$ 138.00

Produced from Garnacha Blanca and Viura grapes, it has aromas of fresh apples, pears and pear dops. Soft and fruity with fresh white fruits and a peachy finish.

2458

MARQUESA DE ATIZA GARNACHA ROSÉ, DO CARIÑENA, BODEM BODEGAS, 2020

Garnacha $ 23.00

$ 138.00

Red fruits, rosehip and floral notes make this an attractive rosé, vivid in colour with refreshing finish.

2021-2022, M8 D9

2021-2022, M8 D9 Fresh apples and pears

6°C

Rosehip, strawberry

6°C

White fruit, white peach, [D]

13.5%

Refreshing acidity, [D]

13%

Penne with chicken and peas

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CELLAR 284 — YUKON

Charcuterie plate and grilled vegetable kebabs

RED, WHITE OR ROSÉ?

TRY GARNACHA IN ALL THREE COLOURS WITH THESE TOP-VALUE WINES!

TOP VALUE

NEW ZEALAND

WINES FOR YOUR EVERYDAY DRINKING

LA MIRADA AL SUR TINTO, DO

2459 CALATAYUD, BODEGAS VIRGEN DE LA SIERRA, 2020

Garnacha $ 24.00

Produced from Garnacha grown on old bush vines 50-100 years old high in the mountains of the remote Calatayud region where time has stood still. It has mellow aromas of damsons and plums. It is medium bodied, supple with a fresh cherry finish.

$ 144.00

2021-2023, M8 D9 Plums, damsons

18°C

Fresh cherries

14%

Baked Spanish rice with chicken thighs

— SPAIN TOP VALUE WINES

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SPAIN

Spanish Bodegas In Spain, a “bodega” encompasses several different meanings, from wine cellar or winery to bar and is equivalent to the French term “cave”. The following Spanish bodegas based in different Denominacion of Origen (DOC) around Spain produce exceptional wines made from traditional Spanish grape varieties.

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CELLAR 284 — YUKON

DON'T MISS THE PREMIUM TEMPRANILLO FROM LOESS VINOS ON PAGE 50.

2482

LOESS BLUE CAPSULE, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, BODEGAS MIGUEL Y RUANO, 2017

Tempranillo $ 55.00

LOESS VINOS Jaime Saiz de la Hoya – a viticultural expert in Ribera del Duero – is the man behind Loess wines. Using his intimate local knowledge of the region, Jaime purchased six superb plots in Roa. The name Loess refers to the deep sedimentary sand and clay soils on which the vineyards are cultivated and which are classified as “Excellent.”

LOESS BLANCO, DO RUEDA, BODEGAS MIGUEL Y RUANO, 2020

Verdejo $ 330.00

$ 36.00

$ 216.00

Mellow pâtisserie, cooked fruits and vanilla aromas precede a soft smooth palate which is quite light and ethereal in nature: this is an elegant wine with a grainy texture. Not quite ready for drinking, it should develop nicely. The wine was transferred to new French oak barrels for malolactic fermentation and then matured for 12 months.

Honey, peach and pear drop aromas are immediately appealing. More fruits shine through on the palate with pears and nectarine. This is a medium-bodied white with nice mid-palate weight making it round and smooth leading to a crisp finish. Rueda is where Jaime grew up and for this wine he used Verdejo grapes from a four-hectare vineyard planted in 1998. After a short skin maceration, the wine was fermented in tank and matured on its fine lees with regular bâtonnage to add mouthfeel.

2022-2028, M6 D7

2021-2022, M8 D9

Pâtisserie, cooked fruit, vanilla

18°C

Passion fruit, guava, mango

6°C

Red fruits

14.5%

Mandarin, citrus, passion fruit, [D]

13%

Grilled quail with pomegranate sauce

2481

2483

Pan-seared halibut with citrus-sherry jus

LOESS INSPIRATION, TEMPRANILLO EN ROBLE, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, BODEGAS MIGUEL Y RUANO, 2019 Tempranillo $ 34.00

$ 204.00

2022-2028, M6 D8 Cooked forest fruits, vanilla

18°C

Ginger, mellow fruits

14.5%

Braised pheasant with white beans

A mellow and intense wine, it has aromas of cooked forest fruits and vanilla.

It is soft and smooth with medium to full body and a grainy texture. Flavours of ginger complement mellow fruits with some grip on the finish. Loess Inspiration is made with the same care and attention as Jaime’s premium wines – and benefits from those components that don’t quite make the cut for the top wines.

— SPAIN LOESS VINOS

29

TRY OUR NEW WEB EXCLUSIVE TEMPRANILLO FROM RIOJA, LOT 2500.

BODEGAS D. MATEOS Bodegas D. Mateos is located in the warmest subregion of Rioja, known as Rioja Oriental. The climate produces riper styles from grapes grown on sandy and clay loam soils.

Owned by Mateo Ruiz Moreno, it was the first winery to discover white Tempranillo and is currently leading work to identify and select the best clones of Graciano.

NEW

2484

IN INSENSATO GARNACHA, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS D. MATEOS, 2019

Garnacha $ 35.00

2485 $ 210.00

A grassy herbal wine which is smooth and warm on the palate. Mateos own some of the oldest Garnacha vineyards in the region, with this wine produced from 45-year-old vines. Matured in mediumtoast French oak barrels for five months.

IN INSOLENTE GRACIANO, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS D. MATEOS, 2019

Graciano $ 33.00

$ 198.00

Raisins, tar and leafy aromas lead to a soft rich palate. This is a medium- to fullbodied wine with a layered texture and good depth. Ripe dark fruit flavours combine with chocolate and spices which linger on the palate. Graciano is an old variety which produces low yields and retains good natural acidity bringing freshness. Bodegas Mateos is working in collaboration with local research authorities on clonal selection and has planted a number of experimental vineyards.

2021-2024, M7 D9 Grassy, herbs

18°C

Green leaves, tar, raisins

18°C

Cherries

14.5%

Dark fruits, chocolate, spices

14%

Spinach-ricotta lasagna

30

2021-2026, M7 D9

CELLAR 284 — YUKON

Braised rabbit in tomato sauce

photo — The current generation at Bodegas D. Mateos is pushing the limits of this traditional region with a modern and respectful approach.

NEW

2486

IN INCONSCIENTE TEMPRANILLO BLANCO, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS D. MATEOS, 2020

Tempranillo Blanco $ 33.00

2487

NEW

LA MATEO COLECCIÓN DE FAMILIA TEMPRANILLO BLANCO, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS D. MATEOS, 2017

Tempranillo Blanco $ 198.00

Bright in colour with a greenish hue, it has intense fresh white fruit aromas with apples and pears. It is medium bodied with a soft fleshy mid palate followed by a marked acidity with persistent sour lemon and lime finish. Tempranillo Blanco, a white mutation of Tempranillo, was first discovered in 1988.

Researchers spent a number of years evaluating and stabilizing the mutation before planting an experimental onehectare plot, with the first wine produced in 2005.

2021-2022, M8 D9 Apples, pears

6°C

Lemon, lime citrus, [D]

12.5%

Serrano-Manchego tosta mista

$ 70.00

2488

LA MATEO COLECCIÓN DE FAMILIA VENDIMIA, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS D. MATEOS, 2016

Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano $ 420.00

$ 438.00

$ 73.00

A deliciously mature oaked white Rioja, it is a deep golden yellow with intense vanilla and cinnamon spices on the nose. More fruit comes through on the palate with pineapple and lemon flavours supported on a soft smooth structure. The long oaky finish is balanced by its crystalline acidity giving great poise.

2021-2024, M8 D9 Spicy oak, vanilla, cinnamon

6°C

Pineapple, lemon, oak, [D]

13%

Smoked salmon, cream cheese and caviar

Sweet vanilla, strawberry creams, raisins and treacle aromas combine with more fresh fruit flavours on the palate from mulberries and cherries. It has a succulent mid palate with a juicy acidity and slightly grainy texture. A wine of great depth that is drinking well now and will stay at its peak.

Produced from a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 27% Garnacha and 3% Graciano from 50year-old vines in some of Rioja’s top sites.

Mateo Ruiz Moreno is a seventh-generation wine grower – his family previously sold grapes, and grapes from these vineyards were sold to the Rioja’s top producers.

2021-2030, M7 D9 Sweet vanilla, strawberry cream, raisin

18°C

Mulberries, cherries, vanilla

14.5%

Red wine-braised veal with polenta

photo — Bodegas D. Mateos was the first winery in the Rioja región to discover White Tempranillo and one of the very few to make a 100% Graciano.

— SPAIN BODEGAS D. MATEOS

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NEW

2489

ALSÓN MALBEC, DO LA MANCHA, HACIENDA ALBAE, 2019

2490

ALSÓN CABERNET SAUVIGNON, DO LA MANCHA, HACIENDA ALBAE, 2018

Cabernet Sauvignon

Malbec $ 168.00

$ 28.00

$ 28.00

$ 168.00

The most unusual wine of the Hacienda Albae portfolio – and my favourite in the lineup. There are very few Spanish producers making varietal Malbec wines, yet the La Mancha climate suits it well. Intense floral violet notes combine with those of dried leaves, green tea with a hint of leather to produce a distinctive aroma with personality. Quite light in body, it has some earthy flavours mixed with grass and red fruits.

A light- to medium-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, quite simple in flavour but very drinkable. Aromas of red apples and red cherries precede a smooth palate which is light to medium bodied. It has some grip and a bitter cherry finish.

2021-2023, M8 D9

2021-2023, M8 D9

Floral, leather, dried leaves

18°C

Red apples, red cherries

18°C

Green tea, red fruits, earthy

13.5%

Bitter cherries

14.5%

Pork and beef albondigas (meatballs) with paprika

Chorizo-bacon migas (stew)

2491

ALSÓN TEMPRANILLO, DO LA MANCHA, HACIENDA ALBAE, 2018

Tempranillo $ 28.00

$ 168.00

Floral and red berry notes are complemented by a touch of leather. This is a light- to medium-bodied Tempranillo with some firm chewy tannins on the finish. Aged in heavily toasted American oak barrels for six months.

2021-2023, M8 D9

HACIENDA ALBAE Hacienda Albae is based in La Mancha – a region known more for “cheap and cheerful” table wines. But these wines are something else. The winery, surrounded by vineyards planted to seven varieties, produces a range of single varietal wines.

32

CELLAR 284 — YUKON

Floral, red berries, leather

18°C

Chewy finish

14%

Fabada (bean stew with blood sausage and chorizo)

photo — Hacienda Albae winemaker Adrian de Pablo (here with Spanish Palate's Nicola Thornton makes world class wine in La Mancha.

2511

VALDUBÓN ROBLE, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, BODEGAS VALDUBÓN, 2019

Tempranillo $ 198.00

$ 33.00

Herbal notes combine with fruit in the 2019 Valdubón Roble. Fresh strawberries and strawberry leaf, floral and vermouth flavours are all present in this light- to medium-bodied wine. It was matured for four months in new oak using 75% American and 25% French barrels.

BODEGAS VALDUBÓN Bodegas Valdubón at Milagros, in Ribera del Duero, was founded by a small group of investors and growers in 1997 then purchased by Pedro Ferrer in 1999. The winery farms a total of 155 hectares of vines; half are owned by Ferrer and the other half by 35 local growers with whom they work closely. Wines are made by Gloria Diaz Diaz.

2021-2025, M7 D9 Fresh strawberries, strawberry leaf

18°C

Leafy, floral and herbal notes

14%

Eggplant and mushroom “meatballs” in sofrito sauce

NEW

2510 2509

VALDUBÓN VERDEJO, DO RUEDA, BODEGAS VALDUBÓN, 2020

ME & YOU TEMPRANILLO, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, BODEGAS VALDUBÓN, 2020

Tempranillo Verdejo, Viura $ 27.00

$ 198.00

$ 33.00 $ 162.00

Tropical fruits, passion fruit and mango precede a soft attack and smooth palate with a zesty lemon finish. Verdejo was blended with 15% Viura, both picked at night and brought to the winery in the early hours of the morning.

Intensely aromatic with plums, damsons and strawberry aromas, this was an immediate standout wine. It is medium bodied and smooth with a fine texture and long red berry finish. Vineyards are spread over different villages in Ribera del Duero, the main ones being Castrillo, Roa and Milagros, with grapes picked the first week of October.

2021-2022, M8 D9

2021-2024, M7 D9

Yeasty, dough, tropical fruits

6°C

Damsons, strawberries

18°C

Passion fruit, mango, lemon, [D]

13%

Red berries

13.5%

Gazpacho soup

photo — Gloria Diaz Diaz is the winemaker at Bodegas Valdubón.

Barbecued whole trout

— SPAIN BODEGAS VALDUBÓN

33

ESCAPES

Vino on the Camino Explore the Camino de Santiago to experience a unique and different way to discover northern Spain and its wines.

Originally used by Catholic pilgrims to reach Santiago de Compostela in the 1st century, the Way of Saint James now welcomes nearly 200,000 hikers from all over the world every year. On this pilgrimage you will come across cultural discoveries, meet all kinds of people, relax in moments of contemplation, and observe the splendours of nature and charming villages all along the way.

Whether for spiritual or athletic motives, the search for self or the desire to meet people, pilgrims come here for reasons that are diverse and varied, but all share the ultimate goal of reaching the tomb attributed to the apostle Santiago de Compostela in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, in Galicia. Several roads lead to Santiago de Compostela, but the best known and most frequented is El Camino Francés, which winds through Spanish lands and places steeped in history. It is described as THE fundamental and magical road. Covering nearly 800 kilometres, it starts in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the French Basque Country and goes all the way to Santiago de Compostela, in Galicia.

Discover the outlying regions of Spain, small and timeless villages and a wide variety of landscapes, each as breathtaking as the next: the hilly Basque Country, the wild Rioja, the desert of Meseta, the fertile Bierzo or green Galicia. You will need between 30 and 35 days to walk the Camino. To avoid periods of excessive heat and too many visitors, we advise pilgrims to make the journey in spring or late summer.

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CELLAR 284 — ESCAPES

WHERE TO SLEEP The many lodgings along the way are used to welcoming hikers.

Fewer lodgings and higher prices are to be expected along back roads. Other accommodations include guest rooms, hotels, bivouacs (night camps) and spiritual sites (monasteries, rectories).

Don’t forget your credencial, the pilgrim’s book issued by the several Camino associations (in Canada, check out the Canadian Company of Pilgrims). This document allows you to access lodgings reserved for pilgrims and obtain the Compostela, the pilgrimage certificate written in Latin, once you reach Santiago de Compostela. To earn it, you will have to prove that you covered the last 100 kilometres on foot or the last 200 kilometres by bicycle or horseback. It is valid for life and on all the roads leading to Santiago de Compostela.

see | The Way – this film

by Emilio Estevez takes place on the Camino explore | Burgos and its 13th-century Gothic cathedral read | The Pilgrimage, Paulo Coelho's first novel

JARDÍN DE LÚCULO LOS BOHEMIOS, DO NAVARRA, BODEGAS LA CASA DE LÚCULO, 2020, LOT 2447, P9

7 Sarria

WHERE TO EAT A wide range of options is available to you, depending on your budget. Many small restaurants, inns and lodges offer food, even in the most remote hamlets. Don’t hesitate to try the specialties of local cuisine: Polbo á Feira (Galician octopus), Caldo Gallego (soup), Torta de Santiago (Santiago cake pie), Pimientos de Padrón.

WHAT ABOUT WINE? Wine being a key element of celebrating mass, vines have grown along the Camino since the Middle Ages. You’ll even find a fountain where wine flows freely in the village of Irache—the Irache Bodegas Fountain was built in 1991 on one of the walls that run along the Camino de Santiago. According to the Codex Calixtinus, the area was already famous in the 12th century for its good wine and good bread. A sign reminds all: “Pilgrim: if you want to reach Santiago with strength and vitality, have a sip of this great wine and toast to happiness. “

6

Léon

Ponferada

Burgos

2

Logroño 4

1

3

Pamplona

5

EL CAMINO FRANCÉS

By making a few short detours, you can also visit the vineyards of some Opimian producers, shown on the map: 1

Bodegas La Casa de Lúculo

5 Bodegas Valdubón

2 Bodegas Vallobera

6 Bodegas Virgen del Galir

3 Bodegas Solar Viejo

7 Bodegas Vionta

4 Loess Vinos

VALLOBERA CRIANZA, DOCA. RIOJA, FAMILIA SAN PEDRO, BODEGAS VALLOBERA, 2018, LOT 2454, P11

— CELLAR 284 ESCAPES

35

SPANISH PALATE After 20 years living and working in the Toro region, Nicola Thornton, wanting to help small farmers and winemakers find markets for their great wines, founded Spanish Palate. Together with her winemaker and their partner estates, they launched Mi Tractor Azul and Botas de Barro ranges.

2492 PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

MI TRACTOR AZUL TINTA DE TORO, 2019

Tinta de Toro The “Blue Tractor” range are wines that are all about the grape variety and where it’s grown. The team are always on the lookout for very old vines that produce low yields of concentrated flavoursome grapes. No oak is used during winemaking, allowing the character of the fruit to shine. Toro, a small hot region in the northwest of Spain, confers a unique character on the Tempranillo grape, which is why it is known as “Tinta de Toro” in the region. Strawberries with cooked and dried fruits, raisins and dates combine with a touch of vanilla to produce a distinctive wine quite rustic in style with a chewy firm finish.

36

CELLAR 284 — YUKON

$ 26.00

$ 156.00

2021-2023, M8 D9 Strawberries, raisins

18°C

Dried fruits, dates, vanilla

14.5%

Shakshuka with chorizo and Manchego

photo — Spanish Palate combines the history and tradition of Spain with young, bright talent to ensure the continuity of the country´s amazing old vines.

2493

MI TRACTOR AZUL VERDEJO, DO LA MANCHA, 2020

Verdejo $ 24.00

$ 144.00

A light and refreshing Verdejo with apples, pears and white blossom flavours.

2021-2022, M8 D9 Spring blossom, apples

6°C

Fresh apple and pears, [D]

12%

Orzo, asparagus, arugula salad with pine nuts and citrus-herb dressing

2494

BOTAS DE BARRO, TEMPRANILLO, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, 2019

Tempranillo $ 31.00

$ 186.00

Spain has the largest acreage of old vines of any wine-producing country in the world.

Botas de Barro (or “muddy boots”) wines pay homage to the generations of farmers who have tramped through vineyards to work the vines. Botas de Barro Ribera del Duero, produced from 100-year-old bush vines, has appealing coconut, vanilla, cola cubes (a British candy) and cinnamon oak, which initially mask red-apple fruit aromas. It is light bodied with a grainy texture and slightly drying finish and was matured in American oak.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Cola cubes, coconut, vanilla

18°C

Oak, red apples

14.5%

Grilled paprika pork chops with grilled romanesco

photo — Antonio's family have been growing topquality grapes along the banks of the River Duero for generations for the Botas de Barro range..

— SPAIN SPANISH PALATE

37

BODEGAS SOLAR VIEJO The Bodegas Solar Viejo, established in 1937 in Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa, was purchased by the Ferrer family in 2004. Vanesa Insausti makes a range of wines including Solar Viejo and Orube – with a modern, elegant twist.

2513

SOLAR VIEJO CRIANZA, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS SOLAR VIEJO, 2018

Tempranillo $ 30.00

$ 180.00

Coconut ice, cream, red fruits and mint create an overall mellow impression. It is smooth, medium bodied with a grainy texture and some nice complexity.

Tempranillo grapes came from different subregions of Rioja. It was matured in a combination of American and French oak for 12 months.

2021-2025, M7 D8 Coconut ice, red fruits, mint

18°C

Mellow, red berries and cream

14%

Char-grilled corn with paprika and Manchego

2512

SOLAR VIEJO TEMPRANILLO, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS SOLAR VIEJO, 2020

Tempranillo $ 28.00

$ 168.00

Intense mixed berry aromas are followed by more red fruits and grapey flavours. This is light- to medium-bodied wine with some powdery tannins and a bitter cherry finish.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Mixed berries

18°C

Grapey, bitter cherry

13.5%

Roncal cheese, nuts and fruit

38

CELLAR 284 — YUKON

photo — Vanesa Insausti, the winemaker, holds a Master's degree in oenology.

ORUBE CRIANZA, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS SOLAR VIEJO, 2018

Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano $ 35.00

2514

$ 210.00 $ 69.00

2515

$ 207.00

NEW

2517

NEW

2516

ORUBE SELECCIÓN DE FAMILIA, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS SOLAR VIEJO, 2017

ORUBE GARNACHA, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS SOLAR VIEJO, 2019 Tempranillo Garnacha $ 38.00

Orube wines are elegant and refined in nature.

The 2018 Crianza is a deep ruby colour. Fruit aromas of strawberry and blueberry are complemented by an herbal edge. This is a supple wine with a grainy texture. It has a linear structure with sour rhubarb flavours cutting through and leading to a fresh finish.

Tempranillo was blended with 20% Graciano and 10% Garnacha, each vinified and matured separately. Different types of oak are matched to each variety and matured for 12 months. Only at the end of this period are the best barrels selected and the final assemblage made.

$ 228.00

Charred toast, coffee and oak with red cherry aromas are intense. On the palate lots more red fruits and oak are deliciously persistent. A supple wine with quite a light mid palate. Garnacha was fermented 21 days on skins, then aged in a selection of French oak barrels for eight months.

2021-2025, M7 D9

$ 408.00

$ 68.00

It is not surprising this wine won Gold at the IWSC (International Wine & Spirits Competition) in 2020. This, their flagship wine, is relatively light in structure with an ethereal quality and a bouquet of potpourri, old rose, raspberry, vanilla and cola. Flavours are integrated producing a wine of great elegance and lots of flavour. It is medium bodied, with a powdery texture, some grip on the finish and persistent cherry menthol flavours. Grapes came from the family’s Los Molinos estate vineyard at an elevation of 650 metres. Matured for 24 months in new French oak barrels; the oak is fully integrated.

2021-2025, M7 D9

2022-2030, M6 D8

Earthy, strawberries, blueberries, herbs

18°C

Toasted oak, charred, coffee, red cherries

18°C

Potpourri, old rose, raspberry, vanilla,

18°C

Rhubarb, sour cherry

14%

Red fruits, oak

14.5%

Cherry menthol

14.5%

Pinchitos Morunos (grilled lamb skewers with saffron and paprika)

Lamb stew with white beans and pimentón

Roast elk saddle with Pedro Ximénez sauce

— SPAIN BODEGAS SOLAR VIEJO

39

SPAIN

Familia Bastida

The Bastida family is based in Jumilla, in southeastern Spain, where the specialty is the Monastrell grape. The regional climate is hot and dry with daytime summer temperatures often hitting 40°C. From their roots in Jumilla, the family now own vineyards in other regions of Spain.

JUMILLA

NEW

2502

FINCA EL LINCE MONASTRELL, DOP JUMILLA, 2017

Monastrell $ 30.00

RIO LILO SAUVIGNON BLANC AIREN, DOP JUMILLA, 2020

Sauvignon Blanc, Airen $ 180.00

$ 24.00

2504

RIO LILO ROSÉ WINE, DOP JUMILLA, 2020

Monastrell $ 144.00

$ 25.00

$ 150.00

Savoury earthy notes typical of the Monastrell grape with green pepper and meaty aromas, this is a mediuj3 m- to full-bodied wine with chewy rustic flavours. Grapes from the family’s oldest vineyards in Murcia were grown at between 600 and 800 metres altitude.

Rio Lilo Blanco is a 50/50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Airen.

Pale but bright in colour, it has distinctive blackcurrant and peach aromas with a light lemony palate.

Made from Monstrell, grapes were crushed and the juice left in contact with the skins for a short period to produce a pale baby-pink colour. Floral and redcurrant aromas are combined with cranberry and raspberry flavours and a fresh crisp finish.

2021-2023, M8 D9

2021-2022, M8 D9

2021-2022, M8 D9

Green pepper, cedar

18°C

Blackcurrant

6°C

Floral, redcurrants

6°C

Rustic earthy flavours

14%

Lemon, [D]

12%

Raspberries, cranberry, [D]

12.5%

Carne asada – grilled skirt steak with garlic and cumin rub

40

2503

CELLAR 284 — YUKON

Bacalao with pil-pil sauce

Ensalata mixta with tuna

photo — The Finca los Almendros estate located in Termino de Arriba, provides grapes for the Bastida Family.

RARELY FOUND AS A SINGLE VARIETAL, YOU MAY KNOW MONASTRELL AS MOURVÈDRE. TRY IT!

2505

GENIO ESPAÑOL ORGANIC, DOP JUMILLA, 2020

Monastrell $ 26.00

$ 156.00

Mellow red berry fruits, oak and pine, this is light to medium bodied with fresh fruit flavours and some treacle on the finish. It spent a short time in American and French oak.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Mellow, red berries, oak

18°C

Fresh fruits, treacle

13.5%

Barbecued spare ribs

— SPAIN FAMILIA BASTIDA

41

CELLAR UP! WINES TO SHAPE YOUR CELLAR

Wine cellars come in every shape and size imaginable, from multi-million dollar, professionally designed shrines to a nook under the basement stairs.

Regardless of where yours is on the spectrum, there are some principles that are common to all wine storage.

Temperature, light and vibration are the key elements.

Worse than temperatures that are too warm is a fluctuation in temperature.

While the optimal temperature for storing your wine is between 10°C and 15°C, 15°C to 20°C can work for shorter periods, provided the temperature does not fluctuate. Remember, these are storage temperatures, not serving temperatures. Serving is a different topic entirely! Wines should be stored away from natural light. The UV rays can degrade and prematurely age wine.

Electric light may fade your labels but won't affect your wine.

Lastly, keep your treasures (everyday drinkers and special bottles) away from vibration of any kind. Furnaces, freezers and fans can all cause the floor around them to shake. Your wine doesn't like that. Find a solid, stable surface for your rack.

For each of the wine styles, this Cellar has suggestions to help build diversity in yours.

SPARKLING Pairs with anything, celebrations, romance LA GRANJA 360 CAVA BRUT, DO PENEDÈS, BODEGA PARXET, LOT 2456, P14

LIGHT WHITE White/light fish, sipping on its own FLOR DEL PÁRAMO VERDEJO, VINO DE LA TIERRA DE CASTILLA Y LEÓN, 2020, LOT 2495, P49

FULL BODY WHITE Poultry, mild cheeses, pork MONTBLANC 362 CHARDONNAY, DO CATALUNYA, 2019, LOT 2469, P20

ROSÉ Most appetizers, sipping on its own, the back deck RIO LILO ROSÉ WINE, DOP JUMILLA, 2020, LOT 2504, P40

LIGHT RED Many pastas, pork, poultry, sipping on its own JAVIER SAN PEDRO RANDEZ TEMPRANILLO, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS VALLOBERA, 2020, LOT 2460, WEB EXCLUSIVE

MEDIUM RED Versatile; many meats without heavy sauces, casseroles VALDUBÓN ROBLE, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, BODEGAS VALDUBÓN, 2019, LOT 2511, P33

FULL BODY RED Heavy stews, many game meats, lamb, strong cheeses, even dessert VIÑA LOBERA CRIANZA, DOCA. RIOJA, 2017, LOT 2476, P25

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CELLAR 284 — CELLAR UP!

NEW

2506

NEW

DRAMA RED BLEND, DO LA MANCHA, 2017

Tempranillo, Garnacha, Syrah $ 30.00

$ 180.00

A distinctly oaky wine with aromas of cocoa, coffee and pencil lead that dominate those of red cherries in the background. On the palate, it is round in structure with more oaky flavours of bitter chocolate mixed with succulent fruit and an astringent finish. A blend of 70% Tempranillo with 25% Garnacha and 5% Syrah grown in the family’s vineyard in La Mancha, Drama certainly makes a statement.

2507

VELETA DE PONIENTE GARNACHA, DO LA MANCHA, 2017

Garnacha $ 32.00

$ 192.00

Another very oaky wine with wood, all spice and cloves over a black cherry background.

Initially round on the palate, it develops some firm edgy tannins. Veleta has red fruit and bitter cherry flavours with a drying astringent finish. Produced from Garnacha from dry-farmed 35-year-old bush vines, it was aged for nine months in American and French oak barrels.

2021-2023, M7 D9 Oak, coffee, pencil lead

18°C

Dark fruits, oak, bitter chocolate

14%

Fried Manchego with romesco sauce

2021-2023, M8 D9 Wood, cloves, spies

18°C

Bitter cherries

14%

Steak tartare with capers and brandy

photo — These ripe Tempranillo grapes in Paraje de Titos in Socuellamos will be used in the making of Drama Red Blend.

— SPAIN FAMILIA BASTIDA

43

JOIN JANE WITH THE MASTERS CASE SUBSCRIPTION THE BEST IN A BOX

$1801

per Cellar Offering

EASY to order EXPERTLY curated EFFORTLESSLY enjoyable Overwhelmed by choosing wines in the Cellar?

Subscribe to The Masters Case, a mixed, six-bottle case curated by Jane Masters MW for members like you.

Even better, you get to taste the wines along with Jane Masters MW as soon as you receive them! Two bottles each of three outstanding wines from a featured producer to take the guesswork out of choosing! You’ll get to taste three styles of wine from a single Opimian producer that will challenge your palate and cultivate your curiosity. Rely on Jane’s expertise!

The Masters Case producer for this Cellar is Vinos Y Viñedos Montenegro.

SUBSCRIBE TODAY

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Via your Dashboard at Opimian.ca

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DID YOU KNOW?

Finders & Keepers | Intriguing Varieties from Spain

By Louise Wilson MW

Wine not only quenches our palates; the discovery of new grape varieties also satisfies our thirst for knowledge and gastronomic experiences.

With its bounty of terroirs, its pockets of pre-Phylloxera old vines and its passionate winegrowers, Spain is uniquely positioned to offer us a wide range of enticing indigenous varieties. The best of these produce wines with depth from the vines’ viticultural struggle, tension from fruit that has ripened in moderated climates and elegance from adept winemaking. Here we explore just a few of the intriguing varieties that Spain has to offer.

On volcanic Tenerife, ungrafted Listán Negro is an ideal vector for terroir. While the science is unclear, wines made from grapes grown on volcanic earth have the potential to echo the soil’s minerality. For Listán Negro, this layer of savoury complexity offsets the wine’s fruit core adding depth and interest. A range of styles exist to explore; from fruit-forward low tannin wine to well-structured barrel aged reds.

Rescued from near extinction in the 70s, Godello excels in the Atlantic-influenced climate of Valdeorras. Godello offers the appealing combination of firm structure and rich fruit intensity.

For some, this reads like a cool climate Chardonnay, while others identify with the weight and richness of Viognier. Regardless of interpretation, this noteworthy grape has the potential to deliver memorable white wines.

Far from being considered royalty, Bobal was previously valued for its high yields. Now, grown at higher altitudes and benefitting from green harvesting, it demonstrates the ability to produce wines of distinctive quality. Top examples hail from UtielRequena where Bobal is used to make intensely flavoured, richly coloured red, sparkling and rosé wine.

Similarly, Mencía was also used to produce simplistic wine in the past. That changed when the discovery of old vines grown on hillsides in Bierzo illustrated the quality potential of this unique Iberian variety. Today Mencía produces quality mid-weight red wines packed with herbal black fruit flavours and aromas.

While Graciano has long been recognized as the perfume in Rioja’s blends, it has recently claimed its own spotlight in single varietal red wines. By providing the viticultural attention that it demands, wine growers are now producing expressive, wellstructured, flavour-packed examples of Graciano.

For those passionate about wine, the hunt for continually evolving experiences is not a passing trend. Exploration has become a fundamental aspect of our connection to wine. Due to the high quality and unique flavour profiles that the indigenous varieties of Spain deliver, they are likely to remain in our repertoire as we continue to enjoy and share them with fellow wine lovers.

Louise Wilson MW lives in the Niagara region and is one of ten Masters of Wine based in Canada. Louise is especially passionate about the opportunity wine provides for continual learning and new experiences.

VÍA NOVA MENCÍA, DO VALDEORRAS, VIRGEN DEL GALIR, 2019, LOT 2474, P24

IN INSOLENTE GRACIANO, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS D. MATEOS, 2019, LOT 2485, P30

— CELLAR 284 DID YOU KNOW?

45

SPAIN

Spanish Exclusives These individual wines from small estates were too good for Opimian to pass up. Discover five exclusive bottles in the Cellar and find three more Web Exclusives on the Opimian website.

CHECK OUT BODEGAS ZIFAR'S PREMIUM TEMPRANILLO ON PAGE 51.

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CELLAR 284 — YUKON

NEW

BODEGAS ZIFAR Bodegas Zifar is a boutique winery in the very heart of Ribera del Duero. Wines are made by local superstar Bequer Prieto. Vineyards are in the prestigious Pesquera de Duero and Quintanilla de Arriba, complemented by grapes from some specific high-altitude plots from tiny grape growers. Each small plot is harvested separately according to soil and location with harvest spread out over many days to ensure each is picked at exactly the right moment.

2496

BODEGAS ZIFAR SENDA DE LOS OLIVOS CRIANZA, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, 2016

Tempranillo $ 51.00

$ 306.00

A rich and savoury wine with tarry aromas, succulent red fruits and a long savoury soy finish. It is medium to full bodied, smooth with a powdery texture and good balance. Grapes were grown at the Carrasca vineyard in Pesquera de Duero at 710 metres altitude. After a 24-hour cold maceration, the wine was fermented in a combination of wooden and stainless steel vats then aged for 12 months in French oak barrels with 50% new.

2022-2030, M6 D7 Tar, soy

18°C

Red cherries, savoury flavours

14.5%

Romera (rosemary) and red wine-braised lamb shanks

BODEGAS VIONTA

2518

YOU & ME ALBARIÑO, DO RÍAS BAIXAS, VIONTA, 2020

Albariño $ 31.00

$ 186.00

Fresh apples, lemon, grapefruit and white peach, this Albariño from Rias Baixas, in Galicia, has great personality. It is supple with a crisp fresh apple finish. Grapes from the Salnés sub-zone, mainly from young vines, were hand harvested and the juice fermented at low temperature.

2021-2022, M8 D9 Fresh apple, lemon, grapefruit

6°C

White peaches, [D]

13%

Fried pimientos (peppers) de Padron

photo — Bequer Prieto is a leading winemaker in Ribera del Duero. Zifar's unique character comes from his elegant terroir-centric approach.

— SPAIN BODEGAS ZIFAR, BODEGAS VIONTA

47

VITICULTORS DEL PRIORAT 2519

MAS DE SUBIRÀ, VI DE GUARDA, DOQ PRIORAT, BODEGAS VITICULTORS DEL PRIORAT, 2019

Garnacha, Cariñena $ 50.00

$ 300.00

Deep in colour, the 2019 Mas de Subirà has aromas of fresh apples, raisins, vanilla with crushed raspberries and strawberry smoothie. More raspberry jam and vanilla flavours show on the palate. It is medium bodied with fine grained tannins, linear with a long cherry finish. Tasted as a barrel sample, it was matured for 12 months in 300-litre French oak.

2021-2028, M7 D9 Red apples, raisins, crushed raspberries, strawberries

18°C

Raspberry, vanilla, cherries

15%

Char-broiled pork burgers with Serrano

48

CELLAR 284 — YUKON

photo — Judit Llop, the winemaker, samples her wine from a barrel.

NEW

BODEGAS GARCIA DE LARA

2497

LA VIÑA DE LA CUEVA COLORÁ, TOLEDO, BODEGAS GARCIA DE LARA, 2018

Tempranillo (Cencibel) $ 54.00

$ 324.00

Deep ruby in colour, La Cueva Colora 2018 has coconut aromas combined with cooked plums and stewed forest fruits. It is a medium- to full-bodied wine with a supple mid palate leading to some firm tannins on the finish.

Fresh ripe strawberry and blackberry flavours unfurl on the palate. This 60-year-old plot at La Cueva Colora in Toledo, close to Madrid, is owned by Miguel García de Lara and his brothers and sisters. Together they are slowly reviving the family’s century-old vineyards while most of their neighbours are uprooting vines to plant other crops.

2022-2028, M6 D8 Coconut, cooked plums, stewed forest fruits

18°C

Strawberries, blackberries

14.5%

Creamy polenta with grilled sausage and tomatoes

NEW

2495

FLOR DEL PÁRAMO VERDEJO, VINO DE LA TIERRA DE CASTILLA Y LEÓN, 2020

FLOR DEL PÁRAMO

Verdejo $ 31.00

$ 186.00

A honeyed wine with peaches and fresh fruits, it is round and crisp. Produced from Verdejo grown in the south of León Province.

Winemaker Pedro Mittelbrunn is on a mission to revive wine production in this somewhat overlooked region.

2021-2022, M8 D9 Honey, peaches, pear drops

6°C

Pears, [D]

13.5%

Fish tacos with peach salsa

photo — The Garcia de Lara family are reviving their ancient family vines by making unique small batch wines of amazing quality.

— SPAIN BODEGAS GARCIA DE LARA, FLOR DEL PÁRAMO

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LOESS VINOS

2499

LOESS COLLECTION, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, BODEGAS MIGUEL Y RUANO, 2015

Tempranillo $ 109.00

50

CELLAR 284 — COLLECTOR’S CORNER

$ 327.00

Jaime Saiz de la Hoya’s flagship wine, grapes were selected from his three best vineyards Corderilla, Carravalcavado 2 and Carraboada 2.

It has an intense bouquet with ripe cooked forest fruits, summer pudding and blueberries. More succulent dark fruits, blackcurrants and blackberries are complemented with nutmeg, ginger and some earthy notes. This is a fine, medium-bodied wine with oodles of flavour and a long finish. Matured in new French oak barrels for 24 months, it is perfect for drinking and should remain at its peak for the next decade.

2021-2030, M6 D8 Summer pudding, blueberries

18°C

Succulent dark fruits, ginger, nutmeg

14.5%

Grilled paprika-rubbed sirloin with blue cheese compound butter

COLLECTOR’S CORNER

RARE FINDS TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

BODEGAS ZIFAR

2498

BODEGAS ZIFAR CABALLERO ZIFAR TEMPRANILLO, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, 2016

Tempranillo $ 249.00

$ 83.00

Deep purple in colour with ripe sweet plum fruits and vanilla, this is an incredibly youthful wine. It is soft and rich, dense in structure yet with fine tannins and flavours of blueberries and plums. It is concentrated with sweet succulent fruits that continue onto the finish which has a certain graininess: delicious to drink now, it certainly is not yet at its peak. Grapes came from a selection of their best vineyards, including two in Pesquera. This is the only wine in their range to be aged in 100 percent new oak – the concentrated fruit just laps it up – and it was matured for 15 months in French barrels.

2022-2030, M7 D9 Ripe sweet plums, vanilla

18°C

Blueberries, succulent fruits

14.5%

Jamón Ibérico de Bellota

— CELLAR 284 COLLECTOR’S CORNER

51

Web Exclusives Please visit Opimian.ca for your province's pricing on these wines.

52

CELLAR 284 — WEB EXCLUSIVES YUKON

NEW

2460

JAVIER SAN PEDRO RANDEZ TEMPRANILLO, DOCA. RIOJA, BODEGAS VALLOBERA, 2020

Tempranillo $ WEB

2461

ESPERANZA VERDEJO, DO RUEDA, ORGANIC WINE, BODEGA AVELINO VEGAS, 2020

Verdejo $ WEB

$ WEB

2500

SANTA ESTADEA RESERVA, DOCA. RIOJA, 2016

Tempranillo, Garnacha $ WEB

$ WEB

$ WEB

Simple intense red berry aromas with redcurrant and strawberries, this is a lightbodied wine. A tangy acidity gives some length and grip on the palate.

Produced by the Avelino Vegas family in Rueda, it is pale in colour, with subtle lime aromas, fennel and a touch of hay. It is elegant and supple with a crisp finish.

A traditional-style Rioja Reserva, it has a mellow bouquet with cola, liquorice, vanilla and blackberry notes. More sour blackberry flavours come through on the palate, followed by a long woody blackcurrant sour finish. Made by a local young female winemaker Ana Rubio, in Rioja Baja, her aim is to make soft gentle wines.

Mainly Tempranillo, it has 6% Garnacha and spent 18 months maturing in American and French oak.

2021-2023, M8 D9

2021-2022, M8 D9

2021-2025, M7 D9

Red berries, redcurrants

16°C

Lime, fennel, hay

6°C

Cola, liquorice, blackberries

18°C

Strawberries

14%

Crisp, lemon, [D]

13%

Blackcurrant, vanilla, woody

14%

Chorizo and cheese-stuffed Portobello mushrooms

Pollo en pepitoria (chicken in almond sauce)

Grilled octopus with sweet paprika (pulpo a la Gallega)

— CELLAR 284 WEB EXCLUSIVES

53

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