C283-PE: Rhône, Champagne, & Burgundy White Wines

CELLAR ORDER FEB 23 - MAR 29, 2021

RHÔNE, CHAMPAGNE, & BURGUNDY WHITE WINES Opimian.ca

PE 283

FEATURED PRODUCERS

DIRECTORS’ CUT...........................................................................P5 JANE’S COUPS DE COEUR.....................................................P7

CHAMPAGNE DOYARD-MAHÉ.............................................P8 RHÔNE................................................................................................. P12 Château Saint-Bénézet............................................................P14

Domaine des 3POPULAR Lys....................................................................... P15 THEIR MOST NEW Château Cambis.............................................................. P17 OPIMIAN WINES NEW Domaine Passion des Dames................................P18

ARGENTINA

NEW Domaine Caveau et Millas........................................ P19

NEW Château Saint Estève d’Uchaux..........................P20 CELLAR UP!..................................................................................... P22 NEW Domaine Saint Pierre..................................................P24

NEW Domaine Martin............................................................. P25 NEW Domaine La Ligière...................................................... P26 NEW Château La Roselière.................................................. P27 TOP VALUE WINES....................................................................P28 NEW Château la Genestière................................................. P31 CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE....................................................P34 NEW Vignobles Mayard.......................................................... P36 NORTHERN RHÔNE ................................................................. P38 NEW Domaine des Remizières.........................................P40 Domaine Christophe Pichon, Père et Fils ................. P41 LAMBLIN FILS............................................................................... P44

DISCOVER OUR NEW PRODUCERS FROM THE RHÔNE VALLEY

PAUL SAPIN.....................................................................................P49 PRABAN NÀ LINNE..................................................................... P51 COLLECTOR’S CORNER......................................................... P52

P14 FUEGO BLANCO FUEGO BLANCO VALLE DEL SILEX, MALBEC, VALLE DEL PEDERNAL CUYO, 2017, LOT 2300, P15

P18 BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS MAURICIO LORCA TEMÁTICO ARGENTINO JOVEN TORRONTÉS, LA RIOJA, 2019, LOT 2304, P19

P24 FINCA FERRER ACORDEON MALBEC ESTATE GROWN GUALTALLARY, 2018, LOT 2317, P25

CHILE Cellar 283

RHÔNE, CHAMPAGNE AND BURGUNDY WHITE WINES In the Rhône Valley, vineyards surround picturesque Provençal villages, many of which give their names to wine Appellations. This is a region steeped in history: the ancient Greeks initially planted vines close to Marseille; the Romans expanded viticulture up the valley, and the region bears witness to the incredible scale and ingenuity of the empire with amphitheatres in Orange and Arles, the Pont du Gard aqueduct near Nîmes and many Roman artifacts. Châteauneuf-du-Pape was the summer residence of the Catholic pope in the 14th century – a pope who liked the local tipple. The Burgundy region produces white wines around Mâcon which are soft and approachable and the taut wines from Chablis which become richer and more powerful with cellaring. The Champagne region, dominated by the large “houses,” is seeing small grower-producers like Doyard-Mahé making their name. In this Cellar offering, you will also find new delicious colour-changing gins from The Secret Garden in Scotland, alongside our favorite Scotch malts.

P30 VIÑA LA ROSA

P36 ANTIYAL

P40 LAS VELETAS

JANE MASTERS MW, OPIMIAN’S MASTER OF WINE

P42 VIÑA ECHEVERRÍA

CORNELLANA RESERVE PURA FE CARMENERE LAS VELETAS PETIT VERDOT Every wine offered by Opimian is tasted and selected for its deliciousness CARMENERE CACHAPOAL MAIPO VALLEY ANTIYAL, CABERNET FRANC VALLE VALLEY PEUMO, 2018, LOT 2018, LOT 2337,of P37 DEL MAULE, 2018, LOT 2345, and value by our consultant Master Wine, Jane Masters. Jane has 2330, P29 an in-depth knowledge of the world of wine. Her aim is to shareP41 her

PROPUESTA CURICO VALLEY, 2018, LOT 2356, P46

experience and love of wine with members in an easy and informal manner. She is one of 409 Masters of Wine worldwide and was elected Chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine 2016-2018 by her peers.

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CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

cover —Maverick —The Lamblin Chilean family winmaker in the Chablis AlvaroGrand

Espinoza Cru vineyard, of Antiyal with the practices town ofbiodynamic Chablis in the viticulture background and (Clément, winemaking.

Didier, Michel, Alexandre).

FEATURED PRODUCERS

DIRECTORS’ CUT...........................................................................P5

JANE’S COUPS DE COEUR.....................................................P7

CAVE VINICOLE DE HUNAWIHR.........................................P8 FUEGO BLANCO...........................................................................P14

BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS MAURICIO LORCA.................P18

THEIR MOST POPULAR OPIMIAN WINES

FINCA FERRER..............................................................................P24

ALSACE

CHAMPAGNE

DELIVERY WILL BE

SUMMER 2021

RHÔNE

TOP VALUE WINES....................................................................P28

VIÑA LA ROSA...............................................................................P30 CHÂTEAUNEUFANTIYAL.............................................................................................. P36 DU-PAPE LAS VELETAS..................................................................................P40

VIÑA ECHEVERRÍA..................................................................... P42 CELLAR UP!.................................................................................... P44 VILLARD FINE WINES..............................................................P50 COLLECTOR’S CORNER.........................................................P54

Cellar xxx TITLE

DELIVERY WILL BE

LATE SUMMER 2021

text P8 P8 CHAMPAGNE DOYARD-MAHÉ CAVE VINICOLE DE HUNAWIHR CHAMPAGNE DOYARD-MAHÉ DM EXTRA BRUT DÉSIR, CHARDONNAY PINOT BLANC BLANC DE BLANCS, VERTUS RÉSERVE,CRU, AOC LOT 2372, P9 PREMIER ALSACE, 2018, LOT 2288, P11

NORTHERN RHÔNE

P14 CHÂTEAU SAINT-BÉNÉZET

P34 DOMAINE DES CIGALONS

CHÂTEAU SAINT-BÉNÉZET, LES HAUTS DE COSTE-RIVES, ROUGE, AOP COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES, TERRA VITIS, 2019, LOT 2378, P14

DOMAINE DES CIGALONS AOC CHÂTEAUNEUF-DUPAPE, LOT 2389, P35

CHABLIS

P50 VILLARD FINE WINES EXPRESION RESERVE PINOT NOIR CASABLANCA VALLEY, P39 LOT 2363, P51 2018, DOMAINE DU MURINAIS DOMAINE DU MURINAIS, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOP CROZES HERMITAGE, 2019, LOT 2390, P39

P44 LAMBLIN FILS CHABLIS, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOC, 2019, LOT 2426, P46

BURGUNDY

SCOTLAND

JANE MASTERS MW, OPIMIAN’S MASTER OF WINE Every wine offered by Opimian is tasted and selected for its deliciousness and of Wine, Jane Masters. Jane has P49value by our consultant Master P51 PAUL SAPINknowledge of the world PRÀBAN NA LINNE an in-depth of wine. Her aim is to share her experience and love of wine with members in an easy and informal PAUL SAPIN SAINTCÙL NA CREAGAN 12 YEAR manner.

She is one of 409 Masters of Wine worldwide and was elected VÉRAN, LA COLLECTION, OLD, BLENDED MALT SCOTCH Chairman of the Institute of Masters of WineLOT 2016-2018 by her peers.

AOP, 2020, LOT 2435, P49 WHISKY, 2445, P51

— CELLAR 283 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

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EDITORIAL

A New Outlook on the Rhône Valley Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Co-Managing Directors

The Rhône, relegated to a ‘second tier’ region in Cellars past, is now taking its rightful place as a lead region in an Opimian Cellar.

Perhaps best known for the classic GSM blend (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre), the Rhône sends some of the best Viognier and Syrah out into the world as well. There are 39 new wines and spirits within these pages, many of them expanding your choice from this marvelous wine region.

Those, coupled with the return of many of your favourites, offer you more selection than ever before with over 70 lots in this Cellar. We continue to make this possible with nine Web Exclusive wines.

Make sure to check them out online before placing your order.

It was an interesting challenge to organize the many sub-regions, appellations and Châteaux in the Rhône for this publication. We settled on grouping the producers within three sections. Rhône in general, Northern Rhône for its Syrah single varietals, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape which deserved to be on its own with its prestigious and fabulous wines.

White Burgundy is back and the Lamblin family does not disappoint. Friend and partners of Opimian from the beginning, Lamblin Fils provide us with brilliant Chablis, Aligoté, and Member favourite, Folies Parisiennes. Their Crèmes de Fruits are back as Web Exclusives (look for the green emblem in the upper left of the listing on the website).

Don’t forget to order your Champagne for later in the year.

Winemaker Carole Doyard braved the Canadian winter last year to meet many of you across the country. Her Champagne DoyardMahé has become the standard. She has also offered us a limited quantity of unique dessert wine, Ratafia, that is a local favourite in the Champagne region and rarely makes its way beyond.

You will be reading this as the two of us begin our second year at the helm of your Club. We have had an incredibly busy and exciting year! Thank you for your support and participation in Opimian. Sharing our joy of wine with you is a privilege. You can expect more exciting opportunities for discovery in the coming year. From online wine education to the first of the regular virtual tasting with Jane Masters MW for subscribers to The Masters Case, being an Opimian Member will continue to be a special experience for wine lovers like you.

Michael and Greg

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CELLAR 283 — EDITORIAL

DIRECTORS’ CUT GREG & MICHAEL’S PICKS FOR THIS CELLAR OFFERING GILLES FLACHER, LES REINES, AOP SAINT-JOSEPH, 2019, LOT 2391, P39

KLOOF-EN-BERG CHENIN BLANC, WESTERN CAPE, 2020, LOT 2437, P28

LAMBLIN FILS BRUT ROSÉ CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE, AOC, LOT 2429, P46 MASSEY DACTA SAUVIGNON BLANC, MARLBOROUGH, 2020 LOT 2195, P39

GREG’S PICKS

MICHAEL’S PICKS

CHABLIS GRAND CRU MIXED CASE, LOT 2428, P48

CÙL NA CREAGAN 12 YEAR OLD, BLENDED MALT SCOTCH WHISKY, LOT 2445, P51

CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES MIXED CASE, LOT 2398, WEB EXCLUSIVE

— CELLAR 283 DIRECTORS’ CUT

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MASTER PIECE | FROM GRAPES TO GLASS PART 1

How Is Wine Made? | Let’s Start with the Grapes Jane Masters MW is Opimian’s Master of Wine

What impacts the flavours and styles? What makes a wine taste the way it does and how do I find more wines that I like?

Wine is essentially fermented grape juice. The natural sugars in grapes are used by yeast as an energy source to live. During the alcoholic fermentation, yeast converts sugar into alcohol, producing at the same time aromatic flavour compounds and carbon dioxide. It sounds so simple — so what makes for the large variety of wine flavours and styles? In other words, what makes a wine taste the way it does and how do I find more wines that I like? These are questions I will be exploring over several articles, starting with the basic building block: grapes.

Most quality wines are made from grapes from the Vitis Vinifera species, of which there are thousands of varieties. These include varieties grown for eating and for winemaking (which tend to be smaller, rounder grapes with thick skins and high natural sugar). As grapes mature in late summer, they naturally build up sugar, acidity levels drop, and flavours develop. Hot dry climates generally produce grapes with higher sugar levels and lower acidity than cool regions. These parameters are monitored by winemakers when deciding when to harvest.

If all the sugar is fermented the resulting wine is dry.

Approximately 18 grams per litre (g/l) of sugar produces 1% ethanol, hence the higher the initial sugar content, the more alcohol will be produced. Most dry wines range between 12 and 14% in alcohol. Fermentation can be arrested intentionally, or it can stop naturally, leaving residual sugar. Depending on the amount of sugar, the wine will be more or less sweet, ranging from several grams to wines with several hundreds of g/l, in the case of dessert and fortified wines.

Alcohol itself is sweet and this is why some dry wines can taste sweet. Try tasting a solution of 12% ethanol in water and you will find it decidedly sweet — with even higher alcohol, the sweetness is masked by a burning sensation. Alcohol also adds weight—– a feeling of richness or viscosity — it does not “feel” the same as drinking water. Water feels thin, while alcohol adds to the structure or shape of a wine. The balance between sugar, alcohol and acidity components plays an important part in how wines are perceived. A wine high in alcohol and low in acidity becomes flabby and lacks vibrancy. Acidity in wine is due mainly to tartaric, malic, lactic and citric acids which vary in their proportions. Each has a different acid strength and flavour.

Wines with the same total acidity may be perceived differently depending on the ratios of different acids. While cool climates generally produce wines higher in acidity, in hot regions tartaric acid can be added by the winemaker.

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CELLAR 283 — MASTER PIECE

JANE’S COUPS DE COEUR EVERYDAY DRINKING

DOMAINE DES 3 LYS, TRADITION, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2019, LOT 2379, P15

CELLARING POTENTIAL

CAVEAU ET MILLAS, AOP CLAIRETTE DE BELLEGARDE, 2019, LOT 2408, P19

Texture and weight can also come from phenolic compounds in grapes, most of which are in the skins and pips. For most white wines and many rosés, grapes are crushed soon after picking and the skins discarded so the flavour is coming from the pulp and juice alone. With red wines (and the current trend for orange wines made from white grapes), fermentation is carried out in the presence of the grape skins. Tannins and other phenolics add structure and texture to a wine, giving wines an ability to mature. Yet tannins can also have a drying or astringent effect on the tongue as they react with saliva in the mouth (think stewed tea and the skins of walnuts). A certain

CHÂTEAU LA GENESTIÈRE, AOP LIRAC, 2018, LOT 2387, P31

DOMAINE DES REMIZIÈRES, AOP SAINT-JOSEPH, 2019, LOT 2392, P40

amount of grip adds length and presence, too much and the wine becomes aggressive. Grape varieties such as Pinot Noir are relatively low in tannins whereas Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah have higher levels.

Wine is usually more aromatic and flavoursome than the fresh grapes used to make it. Wines contain thousands of aromatic components produced by yeast from non-aromatic molecules in the grapes. Some of these may be present in miniscule amounts yet still have an impact on wine flavour. Some may be common to all wines, and others are distinctly characteristic of a particular grape variety. For instance, Sauvignon Blanc displays passion fruit, gooseberry or cat pee aromas and Cabernet Sauvignon is associated with blackcurrants. How grapes are grown, the climate and level of ripeness has a bearing on wine flavour and intensity. Taking Sauvignon Blanc as an example, picked earlier it has greener, grassy, more pungent aromas due to methoxypyrazines. Left on the vine a bit longer, more grapefruit and passion fruit aromatics are produced from thiols. Deciding when to pick the grapes clearly impacts not only the alcohol and acidity level of the wine but its flavour potential. How this potential translates into the flavour of wine produced depends on how the grapes are subsequently handled… but that’s for the next part of the story.

— CELLAR 283 JANE’S COUPS DE COEUR

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FRANCE

CHAMPAGNE

Champagne Doyard-Mahé VERTUS

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CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

Members who met Carole Doyard – she visited Canada last winter and hosted a number of successful Opimian tasting events – will know she has as bubbly a personality as the Champagnes she produces. Carole runs the family business at Vertus in the south of the Côte des Blancs alongside her father. Her grandfather, Maurice Doyard, started the business in 1927 and was a well-known influence in the region. Carole has six hectares in Vertus – all with Premier Cru status – and makes Champagnes that are all finesse and elegance.

photo — Doyard-Mahé champagnes feature Maurice Doyard, one of the founders of the CIVC, on their caps.

CHAMPAGNE DOYARD-MAHÉ DM EMPREINTE, CHARDONNAY BLANC DE BLANCS, VERTUS PREMIER CRU

Chardonnay

Chardonnay $ 70.00

2370

$ 420.00 $ 213.00

2371

2372

CHAMPAGNE DOYARD-MAHÉ DM EXTRA BRUT DÉSIR, CHARDONNAY BLANC DE BLANCS, VERTUS PREMIER CRU

$ 213.00

DISCOVER THE DOYARD-MAHÉ PREMIUM RATAFIA, PAGE 55.

$ 81.00

$ 486.00

In recent years, there has been a trend in Champagne for lower “dosage” – the amount of liqueur that is added to adjust sugar levels to balance the naturally high acidity of the wines. This is partly due to consumers’ changing tastes for drier styles and partly due to riper grapes being harvested these days compared to the past.

Carole’s Désir Extra Brut is an elegant refreshing Champagne with lots of crisp green apple, fresh lemon, spring blossom and pastry character. While it is a nonvintage Champagne, for a large part the assemblage is based on 2017. The date of disgorgement is indicated on the cork.

2021-2024, M7 D8 White fruits, spring blossom

6°C

Fresh green apple, lemon, [D]

12%

Roasted chestnuts

Pale in colour, with streams of fine bubbles, Empreinte has tantalizing aromas of brioche, marmalade, honey and white fruits.

It is creamy in texture with fresh white fruits, apples and pears and a tangy lemon finish giving harmony and length.

Carole will personally sign the Magnum bottles for Opimian Members.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Brioche, white fruits, honey

6°C

Apples, pears, lemon, [SD]

12%

Oysters on the half-shell with shallot mignonette

photo — Carole’s bubbly personality comes through

in her excellent wines!

— CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE DOYARD-MAHÉ

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ESCAPES

Cheers to Champagne!

cofounders is none other than Maurice Doyard, the greatgrandfather of our winemaker Carole Doyard-Mahé.

Champagne is essentially made from three grape varieties: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. The region also produces still wines such as the rosé des Riceys or the coteaux champenois, formerly called "vins nature de Champagne."

Today, the hillsides, houses and cellars of Champagne are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in recognition of the singularity of the land, the know-how and the techniques that are specific to the Champagne region.

A TRIP TO CHAMPAGNE Reims, with its prestigious historical heritage, owes its reputation to its Champagne but also to its cathedral, whose construction began in 1211. For nearly 1,000 years the cathedral witnessed the coronations of the kings of France, which greatly contributed to the prestige of the region and its development.

You will not want to miss the famous Avenue de Champagne in Epernay, known as the birthplace of champagne. With nearly two million visitors each year, this iconic avenue is home to several major Champagne houses. As you leave Epernay, make a stop in Vertus, a vineyard listed as a Premier Cru, in the "Côte des Blancs" and visit our partner Carole Doyard-Mahé, who will welcome you into her beautiful family home.

Feel like visiting the Champagne vineyards? Why not! Just take the Champagne Route! With six different routes stretching over more than 600 kilometres, the Champagne Route allows you to travel through beautiful landscapes where many winemakers welcome visitors and share their passion for their land and their products.

By bike, motorcycle, car or even camper, each itinerary offers great ways to know more about these magical bubbles. But just to be on the safe side, save the bubbles for the end of the day as the roads and streets in and around the villages are very narrow.

The Champagne Route, entirely signposted, winds between vineyards and hillsides, and around picturesque villages, castles and churches. You will be amazed by the scenic views of the vineyard and the charming villages. Enjoy the tour!

The mere mention of the word Champagne tells a story; the story of a wine that has travelled the world in a few centuries to become a symbol of pleasure and sharing; a unique wine that cannot be ignored!

Located in the north-east of France, 150 kilometres from Paris, the Champagne vineyards extend over some 34,300 hectares, encompassing 319 distinct Crus. Seventeen villages boast the "Grand Cru" designation and 42 the "Premier Cru" designation.

Romans were the first to introduce the vine to Champagne in the 2nd century.

The star of the region is, of course, Champagne, strictly protected by an Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) and by the CIVC (Comité interprofessionnel du vin de Champagne), one of whose

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CELLAR 283 — ESCAPES

2373

CHAMPAGNE DOYARD-MAHÉ DM ROSÉ, VERTUS PREMIER CRU

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir $ 77.00

$ 462.00

CHAMPAGNE DOYARDMAHÉ DM EXTRA BRUT DÉSIR, CHARDONNAY BLANC DE BLANCS, VERTUS PREMIER CRU, LOT 2372, P9

NEW

2374

CHAMPAGNE DOYARD-MAHÉ DM MILLESIME EXTRA BRUT 2014, CHARDONNAY BLANC DE BLANCS, VERTUS PREMIER CRU Chardonnay $ 111.00

READ MORE ABOUT THIS PRESTIGIOUS REGION ON OUR BLOG.

A pretty cranberry colour with fine mousse, it has aromas of raspberries and cherries.

The addition of Pinot Noir for colour also gives this pink Champagne a richness on the palate. It has flavours of forest fruits with an herbal edge and a long persistent finish.

$ 666.00

I love mature Champagne: with time it develops a richness and depth yet retains its tangy acidity. DM 2014, after six years, remains youthful in flavour and was made from a special selection of the best grapes at harvest. It is pale in colour with subtle caramel, toffee, verbena and cheesecake aromas. These are complemented by a sour yellow-plum character on the palate and crisp acidity yielding to a long vanilla toffee finish.

2021-2023, M8 D9

2021-2026, M7 D8

Raspberries, cherries

6°C

Caramel, verbena, cheesecake

6°C

Forest fruits, herbs, [SD]

12%

Sour plum, vanilla toffee, [D]

12%

Shallow-fried crab cakes with mango salsa

Vacherin

— CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE DOYARD-MAHÉ

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GO ONLINE FOR WEB EXCLUSIVE WINES, LOTS 2397-2401

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CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

photo — Happiness is in the vines! Marylou and Lucas, 5th generation from Domaine la Pierre du Coq, hear the call of the terroir in the morning!

FRANCE

RHÔNE

DOMAINE DES ROMARINS NEW LOWER PRICE

Twelve Family Estates Wines are produced along 240 kilometres of the Rhône River starting south of Lyon down to the Mediterranean. The further south, the warmer and drier the climate: most wines are made in the Southern Rhône where the river widens into the delta with its range of alluvial, limestone and sandy soils.

Wines are made from heat-loving varieties, particularly Grenache, blended with varying proportions of Mourvèdre, Syrah, Carignan.

Basic Côtes du Rhône wines are easy for everyday drinking, while Côtes du Rhône Villages wines offer more concentration.

A number of villages that consistently make higher-quality wines are permitted to append the name of the village. The highest quality are the seven Crus, including Gigondas. The most famous and soughtafter Appellation is Châteauneuf-du-Pape – and this year we offer some new wines.

2376

DOMAINE DES ROMARINS, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2019

Syrah, Grenache, Carignan $ 28.00

$ 168.00

An Opimian favourite, the domaine is located close to the village of Domazan, a short drive west of Avignon. The 2019 has appealing cherry aromas with more red fruits and floral flavours. Medium bodied with good depth and structure, it’s flavoursome with a grippy bitter cherry finish.

2021-2024, M8 D9 Red fruits, floral

18°C

Bitter cherry

14.5%

Roast leg of lamb with dried cherry sauce

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

photo — Xavier and Benoît Fabre are proud of their heritage. They are the fourth generation of winemakers at the Domaine des Romarins.

— RHÔNE DOMAINE DES ROMARINS

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CHÂTEAU SAINT-BÉNÉZET Situated at the southern end of the Rhône Valley between the Roman city of Nîmes and the Mediterranean coast, the 80-hectare estate was purchased by Michel Bosse-Platière and Jean-Pierre Soulairac in 1999. The team restructured the vineyards and upgraded the winemaking facilities.

Grenache, Syrah $ 21.00

NEW LOWER PRICE

2377

2378

CHÂTEAU SAINT-BÉNÉZET, LES HAUTS DE COSTE-RIVES, ROUGE, AOP COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES, TERRA VITIS, 2019

CHÂTEAU SAINT-BÉNÉZET, LES HAUTS DE COSTE-RIVES, ROSÉ, AOP COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES, TERRA VITIS, 2020

$ 252.00

Aromas of cooked fruits – blackberries, apple, rhubarb – precede a supple mediumbodied wine. On the palate, it has more fresh blackberry, liquorice and spicy flavours.

Grenache, Syrah $ 18.00

$ 216.00

Tasted just weeks after harvest, the 2020 rosé was intensely aromatic with fruity flavours of strawberries, pears, apples, red berries and banana. It is soft and easy drinking.

2021-2024, M7 D9 Strawberries, pears, apples

6°C

Stewed rhubarb, blackberries

18°C

Red berries, banana, [D]

13%

Fresh blackberries, liquorice

14%

Chicken salad Niçoise

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2021-2023, M8 D9

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

Grilled rib eye with apple-radish slaw

photo — “Les Gress” vineyard is located near the Mediterranean Sea, and enjoys the hot sun typical of Southern France.

DOMAINE DES 3 LYS 2379

Produced by the same guys as Château Saint-Bénézet, the team have invested in expanding vineyards and property.

DOMAINE DES 3 LYS, TRADITION, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2019

Syrah, Grenache, Carignan $ 162.00

$ 27.00

A savoury wine with black liquorice and treacle aromas. It is medium bodied with a supple palate and flavours of succulent dark fruits and black cherries. It is rich with soft easy tannins giving weight and structure.

Made from a blend of 40% Syrah, 40% Grenache with 10% Carignan.

2021-2024, M8 D9 Savoury, black liquorice

18°C

Dark fruits, black cherries

14%

Pork chops with prunes and cream sauce

NEW

2380

DOMAINE DES 3 LYS, LES GARRIGUES, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES ROCHEGUDE, 2018 Syrah, Grenache $ 33.00

$ 198.00

Les Garrigues is a blend of 55% Syrah with 45% Grenache grapes grown in the parish of Rochegude, directly north of Orange.

The 2018 has aromas of cooked apples and blackberries over a background of dried leaves and black liquorice. It is a medium- to full-bodied wine with grip and a chewy bitter cherry finish.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Apple and blackberry compote, liquorice, dried leaves

18°C

Bitter cherry

14%

Braised beef with wine and black olives

— RHÔNE DOMAINE DES 3 LYS

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GILLES FLACHER, LES REINES, AOP SAINT-JOSEPH, 2019, LOT 2391, P39

Lyon

Vienne

DID YOU KNOW?

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Roaming the Rhône | A Valley of Vineyards

The immense size of the Rhône Valley means that a lot of different soils, microclimates and terroirs are sprinkled through the region. Different grape varieties thrive in different sub-regions. Terroir, history and know-how also dictate the quality of the wines produced.

AOP Saint-Joseph

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SAINT-JOSEPH

CÔTE-RÔTIE

HERMITAGE

The Rhône wine region starts in Lyon and extends 240 kilometres to the south to the Mediterranean coast at the Rhône River Delta. You’ll recognize several famous names along the many appellations of the area.

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18

Valence AOP Côtes du Rhône

SYRAH

VIOGNIER

ROUSSANNE

Northern Rhône specializes in Syrah (red wines), Viognier, and Roussanne (white wines). The granitic slopes and continental climate are the key to premium wines in Appelations suchs as Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, or Saint-Joseph.

The Southern Rhône harbours many more grape varieties, including Grenache and Mourvèdre. The soils in this area are rocky and sandy soils, which are coupled with a warmer Mediterranean climate. The world-famous Châteauneuf-duPape wines are from this area.

Côtes du Rhône 19 Villages

AOP Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu

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There exists a hierarchy in the different Côtes du Rhône Appellations:

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9 7

3

• AOP Côtes du Rhône (reds, rosés, whites), between Vienne and Avignon, are for everyday drinking, while AOP Côtes du Rhône Villages is restricted to specific villages, and offer more concentration (most are located near Orange).

10 22 6

13

14

11 21

20

AOP Châteauneufdu-Pape

• Only some villages are allowed to add their names to the AOP Côtes du Rhône Villages label; these wines are generally of higher quality.

Avignon Nimes

5

AOP Côtes du Rhône Villages Signargues

4

CHÂTEAUNEUFDU-PAPE

1 2

OPIMIAN PRODUCERS IN THE RHÔNE VALLEY

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12 Ch. La Roselière

1

Ch. Saint-Bénézet

2

Dom. des 3 Lys

13 Ch. la Genestière

3

Ch. Cambis

14 Vignobles Mayard

4 Dom. Passion des Dames

15 Dom. des Remizières

5

Dom. Caveau et Millas

16 Dom. Christophe Pichon

6

Dom. des Cigalons

17 Gilles Flacher

7

Dom. André Berthet-Rayne

18 Dom. du Murinais

8 Ch. Saint Estève d’Uchaux

19 Dom. du Val des Rois

9

20 Dom. de Pieblanc

Dom. Saint Pierre

10 Dom. Martin

21 Dom. Pierre du Coq

11 Dom. La Ligière

22 Ch. de Montmirail

CELLAR 283 — DID YOU KNOW?

Mediterranean Sea

CLOS DU CALVAIRE, AOP CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, FAMILLE MAYARD, 2019 LOT 2421, P37

GRENACHE MOURVÈDRE

Marseille

NEW

CHÂTEAU CAMBIS Château Cambis, built in the 11th century, is in the village of Orsan next to Lacau plateau where Caesar strategically located his Roman camp.

The Rieu-Verdier family tend 30 hectares of vineyards on stony claylimestone hillsides. For centuries members of the Cambis family were highly influential, with the Countess of Cambis mistress to both Louis XV and the Duke of Richmond - son of England’s King Charles II!

2404

CHÂTEAU CAMBIS, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES CHUSCLAN, 2019

Grenache, Syrah $ 31.00

$ 186.00

The Chusclan region is on the right bank of the Rhône and has a tributary, the Cèze, flowing through it. 2019 Château Cambis has mellow aromas of dried fruits, figs and raisins with black treacle. It is medium bodied with fresh red fruit characters on the palate and a sour cherry finish. The Rieu-Verdier family farm is 30 hectares of vineyards planted on stony clay limestone hillsides.

2021-2023, M8 D9

NEW

2403

CHÂTEAU CAMBIS, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES, VIGNOBLE DE LA VALLÉE DU RHÔNE, 2018

Dried fruits, figs, raisins, black treacle

18°C

Red fruits, sour cherry

14%

Rabbit stewed in red wine (Civet de lapin)

Grenache, Syrah $ 30.00

$ 180.00

A light- to medium-bodied wine with jammy fruit flavours and aromas of vanilla, red cherries and nuts. Grapes were picked by hand and whole bunches fed by gravity into tank.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Vanilla, red cherry, nutty

18°C

Jammy, red berry compote

14.5%

Grilled steak with wine sauce

photo — Philippe Verdier and Céline Verdier Rieu, owners of Château Cambis.

— RHÔNE CHÂTEAU CAMBIS

17

DOMAINE PASSION DES DAMES The 200-hectare Domaine Passion des Dames estate, owned by the Meffre family, is managed by Hugues Meffre alongside his father Jacques and daughter Aurélie. The estate was started by his grandparents from modest beginnings, although the family’s presence in Vaucluse is documented back to 1550. The area was previously owned by religious order of nuns at Prébayon Abbey.

NEW

2406

DOMAINE PASSION DES DAMES, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES PLAN DE DIEU, 2019

Grenache, Syrah, Carignan $ 30.00

$ 180.00

NEW

2405

Medium to full bodied, this wine is structured yet supple with good mid-palate fruit and flavours of crushed raspberries, strawberries, mint and soft leather. Plan de Dieu is a zone which includes several villages with the name referring to the plain on which they are located.

The estate was previously the property of a religious order of nuns.

DOMAINE PASSION DES DAMES, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2019

Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Marselan $ 24.00

$ 144.00

A light wine with floral notes of peonies with herbs and red fruits and a bitter cherry finish. The 200-hectare domaine, managed

by Hugues Meffre, was built up by his father and grandparents from a modest start.

2021-2024, M8 D9 Peony, cherry menthol

18°C

Crushed raspberries, strawberries, mint, leather

16°C

Reds fruits, tarragon

14.5%

Fruits

14.5%

Herb-poached trout with braised leeks

18

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

2021-2024, M8 D9

Honey-glazed root vegetables

NEW

2407

CAVEAU ET MILLAS, AOP COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES, 2018

Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault $ 30.00

Meaty aromas with rosemary and wet stone characterize this red from Costières de Nîmes – the most southern wine region of the Rhône Valley. High in alcohol, it has a sweet character with mixed and cookedfruit flavours. The eye-catching label shows the eye of a crocodile, an official symbol for Nîmes. Crocodile bronze coins were minted by the Romans from 28 BCE.

$ 180.00

DOMAINE CAVEAU ET MILLAS With 60 hectares located at Bellegarde, the aim at Domaine Caveau et Millas is to produce wines that break the mould. The eye-catching labels depict the eye of a crocodile, an official symbol for Nîmes. Bronze coins minted by the Romans from 28 BCE depict a crocodile and palm tree representing Egypt and victory in recognition of Nîmes’ role in battle.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Wet stone, meaty, rosemary

16°C

Sweet mixed fruits, menthol

15%

Escalopes of veal with a vermouth-cream sauce

NEW

2408

CAVEAU ET MILLAS, AOP CLAIRETTE DE BELLEGARDE, 2019

Clairette $ 32.00

$ 192.00

A really unusual wine – and I love it!

Produced from the Clairette grape, it has aromas of resin, spices and cooked fruits. It has a nicely layered texture with appley fruits and a long spicy finish – it was partially matured in oak – that will go great with fish dishes with buttery or vanilla sources. Clairette de Bellegarde is a tiny Appellation just 30 kilometres from the coast halfway between Arles and Nîmes.

2021-2022, M8 D9 Marzipan, cooked fruits, spices

10°C

Spicy, apples

13%

Salmon steaks with white wine-butter sauce

photo — The Clairette de Bellegarde AOP soils are characterized by large pebbles on shallow slopes.

— RHÔNE DOMAINE CAVEAU ET MILLAS

19

NEW

CHÂTEAU SAINT ESTÈVE D’UCHAUX Château Saint Estève d’Uchaux is an impressive estate close to the Massif d’Uchaux, which has been owned by the Monier family since 1809. It is 230 hectares in a single block with 50 hectares planted to vines. Other produce are cultivated on a further 24 hectares with the balance of the estate woodlands and wild scrub encouraging biodiversity and providing habitat for wildlife. Owner Marc Français farms organically, with the estate fully certified in 2009.

THE ESSENCE OF OPIMIAN — TIME-HONOURED, FAMILY-OWNED

2410

CHÂTEAU SAINT ESTÈVE TRADITION, ROUGE, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2019

Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah $ 35.00

$ 210.00

Bright in colour, 2019 cuvée Tradition has mellow aromas with ripe plummy fruits and red cherries. It is soft and smooth with fresh red-fruit flavours, a juicy acidity and fine texture. It is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah.

2021-2024, M7 D9 Mellow, plums, red cherries

16°C

Fresh and bitter cherries

14.5%

Rustic chicken liver terrine

20

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

photo — The St-Estève pond in the courtyard, in front of the cellar.

NEW

2412

CHÂTEAU SAINT ESTÈVE D’UCHAUX GRANDE RÉSERVE, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES MASSIF D’UCHAUX, 2017 Grenache, Syrah $ 42.00

$ 252.00

NEW

2411

CHÂTEAU SAINT ESTÈVE D’UCHAUX, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES MASSIF D’UCHAUX, 2018 Syrah, Grenache $ 35.00

$ 210.00

The 2018 Côtes du Rhône Villages Massif d’Uchaux is a fuller-bodied wine with intense spicy oak. Aromas of pencil lead and incense mingle with black pepper, dark fruits and other spicy Syrah notes. It is a structured wine, quite savoury with a sour twist. The forest surrounding the estate and proximity of the Massif helps protect vines from the stresses of heat and drought allowing Syrah to fully develop varietal flavours.

Smoke, black cherry compote and liquorice lead to a supple and smooth palate. It is medium bodied with a bitter chocolate, grainy finish. A blend of 60% Grenache with 40% Syrah grown on stony, quartz and limestone soils. It was matured in tank and bottled without fining or filtration.

2021-2026, M6 D8 Incense, black pepper, dark fruit

18°C

Smoke, black cherry compote, liquorice

18°C

Savoury, sour cherry twist

13.5%

Chocolate, dark fruit

14.5%

Braised lamb with brandy and garlic

photo — The harvest team takes a little break!

2021-2025, M8 D9

70% Valrhona chocolate

— RHÔNE CHÂTEAU SAINT ESTÈVE D’UCHAUX

21

SPARKLING

CELLAR UP!

Pairs with anything, celebrations, romance

WINES TO SHAPE YOUR CELLAR

CHAMPAGNE DOYARD-MAHÉ DM EMPREINTE, CHARDONNAY BLANC DE BLANCS, VERTUS PREMIER CRU LOT 2370, P9

Even the wine cellars of Michelin Star restaurants lean in a certain way to compliment the food and the clients they serve. Some focus on California reds, others on the Bordeaux or Spain.

Without exception, they also include a wide variety of wine styles and regions to offer diversity and flexibility when it comes time to choose what to open.

You can manage your personal wine collection in much the same way.

Of course you’ll always order your favourites, but make a point of ordering a wine outside your comfort zone from time to time. This Cellar Up! feature is a perfect way to ‘Cultivate your Curiosity’ by giving you some suggestions from the kaleidoscope of wine styles available in this Cellar.

Cheers to the joy of wine!

LIGHT WHITE White/light fish, sipping on its own KLOOF-EN-BERG CHENIN BLANC, WESTERN CAPE, 2020, LOT 2437, P28

FULL BODY WHITE Poultry, mild cheeses, pork CHABLIS, AOC, 2019, LOT 2425, P46

FORTIFIED Dessert, rich foods like foie gras RATAFIA, DOYARD-MAHÉ DM, LOT 2375, P55

ROSÉ Most appetizers, sipping on its own, the back deck CHÂTEAU SAINT-BÉNÉZET, LES HAUTS DE COSTE-RIVES, ROSÉ, AOP COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES, TERRA VITIS, 2020, LOT 2377, P14

...AND FOR YOUR BAR Gin Mixed Case THE SECRET GARDEN CASE, LOT 2442, P53

LIGHT RED Many pastas, pork, poultry, sipping on its own DOMAINE PASSION DES DAMES, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2019, LOT 2405, P18

MEDIUM RED Versatile; many meats without heavy sauces, casseroles DOMAINE DES 3 LYS, LES GARRIGUES, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES ROCHEGUDE, 2018, LOT 2380, P15

FULL BODY RED Heavy stews, many game meats, lamb, strong cheeses, even dessert DOMAINE ST PIERRE, AOP VACQUEYRAS, 2016, LOT 2382, P24

22

CELLAR 283 — CELLAR UP!

NEW

2413

NEW

CHÂTEAU SAINT ESTÈVE D’UCHAUX VIEILLES VIGNES, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES MASSIF D’UCHAUX, 2017 Grenache, Syrah $ 51.00

2414

NEW

CHÂTEAU SAINT ESTÈVE TRADITION, BLANC, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2020

Roussanne, Viognier $ 306.00

My favourite of Marc’s reds, it is delicious for drinking now and has lots of cellar potential. It has a mellow bouquet with ripe black cherries, blueberries and vanilla toast enhanced by a savoury olive edge. Rich and smooth on the palate, it is well balanced with the structure to develop. Produced from vines planted over fifty years ago, it is a 50:50 blend. A year of low rainfall from winter through to harvest produced hugely concentrated grapes.

$ 35.00

2415

CHÂTEAU SAINT ESTÈVE VIOGNIER, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2020

Viognier $ 210.00

$ 50.00

$ 300.00

Peaches, lemon and spring blossom perfumes combine on the nose. A blend of equal parts of Roussanne and Viognier, this is medium bodied with a tangy lemon and lime finish.

If you are not sure what Viognier should taste like, then try this wine. It has intense aromas of lemon curd, lime gums and white peaches – expressive, yet elegant and intriguing. The same flavours follow through onto the palate along with fresh Golden Delicious apples. It is smooth and round and balanced by a crisp acidity giving it vivacity and life.

2021-2022, M8 D9

2021-2023, M8 D9

Peaches, lemon, spring blossom

6°C

Lemon curd, lime, white peaches

6°C

Lemon and lime, [D]

14%

Golden Delicious, crisp, [D]

14.5%

Roasted root veg salad with plum and nectarine

Gorgonzola cheese

2021-2026, M7 D9 Blackberries, blueberries, vanilla toast

18°C

Rich, savoury olive

14.5%

Ris de veau (sweetbreads) in Madeira sauce

photo — Marc Français, the winemaker, believes in biodiversity in the vineyard.

— RHÔNE CHÂTEAU SAINT ESTÈVE D’UCHAUX

23

DOMAINE SAINT PIERRE Domaine Saint Pierre in the village of Violès lies to the west of the imposing Mont Ventoux. At just under 2,000 metres, this is the highest mountain in Provence and is nicknamed the Beast of Provence. The estate, named after the patron saint of Violès village, is farmed by Jean-Francois Fauque and his brother Philippe. They have 50 hectares of vines, a quarter of which are very old and produce a range of wines including the cru of Vacqueyras.

NEW

2381

DOMAINE ST PIERRE, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2018

NEW

Grenache, Syrah, Carignan $ 35.00

$ 210.00

The 2018 Côtes du Rhône has a musky earthy character with raisins, menthol and a touch of redcurrant. It is pure and linear in structure with sour cranberry flavours and a bitter cherry finish coming from a high proportion of Grenache.

2382

DOMAINE ST PIERRE, AOP VACQUEYRAS, 2016

Grenache, Syrah $ 50.00

A savoury wine with meaty notes, olive and coal over a black cherry background. In the mouth it is dense with succulent fruits mid palate leading to flavours of caramel and a grippy finish. It is rich and full bodied. It was matured in large old oak casks and is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah.

Vacqueyras, one of the eight Crus with its own Appellation, is situated to the east of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

2021-2023, M8 D9

2021-2026, M7 D9

Earthy raisined fruit, redcurrant

18°C

Savoury meaty notes, coal, black cherry

18°C

Cranberries, bitter fruit finish

14.5%

Succulent fruits and caramel

15%

Boudin noir with Robuchon potates (pomme purée)

24

$ 300.00

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

Braised rabbit with prunes

photo — Jean-François and Philippe Fauque withTommy and Bounty, the winery’s dogs, in front of their handcrafted door dedicated to Bacchus.

NEW

2383

DOMAINE MARTIN

DOMAINE MARTIN, AOP RASTEAU, 2019

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre $ 42.00

$ 252.00

Rasteau is another of the eight Crus in the hierarchy of southern Rhône appellations.

It is the most northern, located approximately 24 kilometres north-east of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Domaine Martin was established in 1905 by Julien Martin with five hectares of vines. Cousins David and Eric Martin farm 72 hectares.

Domaine Martin’s 2019 Rasteau has subtle aromas of dark fruits, mint and redcurrants with just a touch of leather. On the palate, it is linear in structure with great elegance and flavours of red cherries finishing with a lingering cherry-menthol character.

Produced from a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre.

2021-2025, M7 D9 Dark fruits, redcurrants, mint

18°C

Cherry menthol

15%

Hungarian paprika goulash

NEW

2384

DOMAINE MARTIN, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES PLAN DE DIEU, 2018

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre $ 37.00

$ 222.00

2021-2024, M7 D9 Spices, earth, vanilla, cooked fruits

18°C

Red cherries

14.5%

Moroccan vegetable tagine

photo — For four generations, passion, tradition and respect for the environment have been core values at Domaine Martin.

Quite restrained with aromas of spices, fresh earth, vanilla and cherries. It is medium bodied with good mid-palate weight, flavours of cooked fruits and red cherries and juicy acidity adding length. Produced from a blend of 60% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre.

— RHÔNE DOMAINE MARTIN

25

DOMAINE LA LIGIÈRE Since the late 1800s, the Bernard family have farmed in the region around the village of Beaumes de Venise. In the 1950s, the farm evolved from polyculture to specialize in viticulture and in 2008 the first Domaine la Ligière wines were launched. Philippe and Elizabeth Bernard have cultivated their vineyards organically for over 20 years and are certified Ecocert. In the cellar, wines are made as naturally as possible using wild yeast and minimal additions of sulphites.

NEW

2385

LA LIGIÈRE, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, LES COSTEBELLES, 2019

2386

Grenache, Syrah $ 35.00

NEW

$ 210.00

Les Costebelles 2019 has aromas of fresh green herbs – mint and tarragon – over a red-fruit background with a slight whiff of leather. It is light to medium bodied leading to a grainy finish with fresh fruit flavours.

LA LIGIÈRE, AOP VACQUEYRAS, LE MOURRE DE LA CAILLE, 2018

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre $ 52.00

Vacqueyras is the main focus of production at Domaine La Ligière with La Mourre de la Caille a single vineyard selection. I tasted both this and the straight Vacqueyras – both were good but this has another dimension to it: it has intense spicy incense aromas, and on the palate initial meaty savoury flavours concede to red and black fruits with a bit of air and finally a long spicy finish. 70% of the blend is Grenache from 50-year-old vines, with 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. Grapes were handpicked with a strict selection in the vineyards then left to ferment for 4-5 weeks. It was bottled unfiltered and unfined.

2021-2024, M8 D9

2021-2026, M6 D8

Mint, tarragon, red fruit

18°C

Spices, incense

18°C

Fresh fruits

14%

Savoury meaty flavour, red and black fruits

14.5%

Pork medallions with tarragon-cream sauce

26

$ 312.00

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

Chinese five-spice marinated spareribs

NEW

2416

CHÂTEAU LA ROSELIÈRE, BLANC, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2020

Clairette, Grenache Blanc $ 32.00

CHÂTEAU DE LA ROSELIÈRE Joséphine and Frédéric Arnaud purchased this estate in Tresques, on the right bank of the Rhône, in 1995 – the family have owned nearby Château Courac since 1641. Ancient Roman ruins and remains of prehistoric settlements can be found on the property which has approximately 100 hectares of terraced vines facing north and south.

The vineyard is surrounded by forest and an abundance of natural springs which bring light relief to the vines during summer.

$ 192.00

Bright in colour, it has effusive aromas of pears, pear drop candy, nectarines, fresh apples and a touch of citronella.

The majority of the wine was made from Clairette, an old variety. It has a round broad structure with some citrus-pith bitterness adding length aided by the addition of 20% Grenache Blanc.

2021-2022, M8 D9 Pear drops, fresh apple, touch of citronella

6°C

Nectarines, citrus pith, [D]

14%

Pan-seared scallops with fruit salsa

photo — The old wooden vertical press from the early 1900s ,in front of the main house, belonged to Frédéric’s grandfather.

— RHÔNE CHÂTEAU DE LA ROSELIÈRE

27

FROM SOUTH AFRICA AND ARGENTINA

2437

KLOOF-EN-BERG CHENIN BLANC, WESTERN CAPE, 2020

Chenin Blanc $ 15.00

$ 180.00

Intensely aromatic with lots of appealing gooseberry, lime and apple flavours. Light to medium bodied and flavoursome with crisp lemon finish.

2438

FACHADA MALBEC, ARGENTINA, 2020

Malbec $ 17.00 2021-2022, M8 D9 Gooseberry, lime

6°C

Fresh apple, lemon, lime, [D]

12.5%

Seafood brochettes

$ 204.00

Typically deep in colour, with plummy fruits, violets and cherry spices.

2021-2022, M8 D9 Plums, floral

18°C

Red cherries, spice

13.5%

Grilled Portobello mushrooms

28

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

TOP VALUE WINES FOR YOUR EVERYDAY DRINKING DON’T MISS OUR TOP VALUE WEB EXCLUSIVES, LOTS 2439-2441

FROM LAMBLIN FILS

2431

FOLIES PARISIENNES L’HÉRITAGE FRANÇAIS, LE ROUGE DES HÉRITIERS LAMBLIN, VIN DE PAYS D’OC, 2020 Grenache, Syrah $ 192.00

$ 16.00

These top value wines from the New World will please your palate and transport you to sunnier climes this winter.

Always popular with Opimian Members, the Folies Parisiennes line is easy-drinking and delicious! With these cases of 12 you’ll never think twice about what to drink with dinner.

Flavours of mixed forest fruits with a grippy bitter cherry finish.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Forest fruits

18°C

Bitter cherry

12.5%

Bangers and mash

2430

FOLIES PARISIENNES L’HÉRITAGE FRANÇAIS, LE BLANC DES HÉRITIERS LAMBLIN, VIN DE PAYS D’OC, 2020 Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc

2432

FOLIES PARISIENNES L’HÉRITAGE FRANÇAIS, LE ROSÉ DES HÉRITIERS LAMBLIN, VIN DE PAYS D’OC, 2020 Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault $ 17.00

$ 16.00

$ 204.00

$ 192.00

An easy drinking dry white wine with white fruit flavours.

Almost imperceptibly pink, this rosé has aromas of strawberries and talcum powder.

It is soft and very gluggable.

2021-2022, M8 D9

2021-2022, M8 D9 White fruits

6°C

Strawberry, floral

6°C

Smooth, pears, [D]

12.5%

Crisp, dry, [D]

13%

Pan-seared chicken breast with herbed cream sauce

Seafood paella

— SOUTH AFRICA, ARGENTINA AND FRANCE TOP VALUE WINES

29

NEW

2417

NEW

CHÂTEAU LA ROSELIÈRE, ROUGE, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2018

Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan $ 31.00

$ 186.00

Intense aromas of strawberries and other red berry fruits continue onto the palate.

This is a soft easy-drinking wine with cherry notes and some grip on the finish.

Predominantly Grenache, as the strong red fruit character suggests, with 30% Syrah and some Cinsault and Carignan.

2021-2024, M8 D9 Strawberries, red berries

18°C

Cherry

14%

2418

CHÂTEAU LA ROSELIÈRE, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES LAUDUN, 2018 Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Counoise $ 34.00

$ 204.00

A medium- to full-bodied wine with heaps of personality. Aromas of strawberry compote, spices, herbs and tiramisu give immediate appeal. This wine is dense on the palate with a powdery texture becoming firm. More savoury and herbal characters emerge in the mouth followed by bitter cherry and vermouth flavours on the finish. A blend of four grape varieties: the heat-loving Grenache along with Mourvèdre, together accounting for 80% of the blend, Syrah, which prefers cooler sites, and the local Counoise grape.

Roast chicken with mixed berry sauce

2021-2026, M7 D9 Strawberry compote, tiramisu

18°C

Bitter cherries, vermouth

14.5%

Roast boar with tamarind chutney

30

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

NEW

CHÂTEAU LA GENESTIÈRE Château la Genestière in Tavel in the southern Rhône was established on the site of a 16th- century silk workshop.

At one time, no less than 15,000 people worked in the silk industry around Avignon, as France was the world’s leading exporter. Silk production declined dramatically from the 1850s, and wine production on the estate started in 1930. The estate, owned by Christian Latouche, has a total of 200 hectares of vineyards and makes Tavel rosé, Lirac and Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines.

2387

CHÂTEAU LA GENESTIÈRE, AOP LIRAC, 2018

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre $ 318.00

$ 53.00

Appealing coconut aromas dominate over a delicious red berry compote background.

This is a medium-bodied wine with lots of succulent red fruits – cherries, strawberries and other jammy fruits. It is supple and smooth with a powdery texture finishing with lingering flavours of fresh raspberries and herbs.

2021-2026, M6 D8 Coconut, red berry compote

18°C

Strawberries, jammy fruits, herbs

15%

Tripe with wine and Calvados

— RHÔNE CHÂTEAU LA GENESTIÈRE

31

JOIN US FOR OUR C283 VIRTUAL TASTINGS Having trouble deciding which wines to order from C283?

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DID YOU KNOW?

Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Wine Fit for a Pope Located at the bottom of the Rhône Valley, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is one of France’s most prestigious Appellations.

When Pope John XXII succeeded Clement V in the 14th century, the papacy was located in the town of Avignon in the Southern Rhône. While Burgundian wines were in the Pope’s favour at the time, he assisted local vignerons in improving their technique and thus their wines. Before long, these local wines became known as “Vin du Pape” in his honour. John built a castle, the name of the region became Châteauneuf-du-Pape (The Pope’s new castle), and the rest is history. The castle remains the symbol of the appellation to this day.

Fast forward a few centuries and CNP (a commonly used acronym) is widely known and respected for its wine. The 3200-hectare AOC (Appellation d’origine controlée) enjoys a Mediterranean climate and a terroir whose prominent feature is a layer of stones called galets. These pebbles collect heat throughout the day and therefore keep the soil and root structure in relative warmth overnight.

The resulting red wines are often Grenache Noir forward, typically high in alcohol, have balanced acidity, tannins and phenols, and are not exposed to large amounts of oak. They have become known for their earthy, gamey flavours and some tar and leather in the background.

Whites, often blends of Grenache blanc, Clairette and Roussanne, account for only 5% of CNP production. You will find one excellent example in Lot 2422, Françoise Roumieux Sélection in this Cellar. Jane Masters MW describes the palate as white fruits and citrus pith.

Any trip to the Rhône warrants a stop over in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

There are numerous châteaux, of course, but also plenty of history and culture to discover. The ruins of the Popes’ castle remain, having been destroyed twice by war in the 16th and 20th centuries. The Musée du Vin, right in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, has ancient tools and presses on display. The larger centres of Avignon and Orange aren’t too far away and feature the charm of rural France along with excellent dining. While the famous children’s song is about dancing on the bridge of Avignon, apparently walking and singing on the bridge are far more popular – a must on your excursion to the area. Don’t forget your wine glass!

FRANÇOISE ROUMIEUX SÉLECTION, BLANC, AOP CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, 2019, LOT 2422, P37

— CELLAR 283 DID YOU KNOW?

33

FRANCE

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

Bold Grenache Blends

34

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

The southern Rhône’s most prestigious Appellation is named after the village at its centre, which was once the summer residence of the Pope. Any wine book featuring Châteauneufdu-Pape will talk of the large rolled pebbles, or “galets,” deposited many years ago by the Rhône, yet the Appellation has a more diverse range of soils than you would imagine – and more than 13 grape varieties are permitted to make red Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

photo — The harvest at Château Mayard.

NEW

2388

CHÂTEAU LA GENESTIÈRE, AOP CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, 2016 Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Terret Noir, Muscardin, Counoise, Vaccarèse $ 116.00

$ 348.00

A blend of eight varieties, including those less commonly cultivated these days. 2016 Château La Genestière Châteauneuf-duPape remains youthful and is delicious to drink now. It is medium to full bodied with mellow aromas of coconut, ripe black fruits and fresh herbs. Emphasis is on fresh succulent fruits with blackberry and black cherries combined with toasty flavours. It is rich, smooth and mouth filling. A modernstyle blockbuster of a wine.

2021-2030, M6 D8 Coconut, black fruits, herbs

18°C

Blackberries, cherries, toasty note

12%

2389

DOMAINE DES CIGALONS, AOP CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, 2019

Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Syrah $ 63.00

$ 378.00

Domaine des Cigalons vineyards are located between the town of Châteauneuf-duPape, Courthezon and Orange on soils containing “galets,” the rolled stones that are remnants of alpine glaciers smoothed over millennia.

Deep plum in colour, it has earthy savoury aromas with a hint of leather. Plum and cherry fruits emerge on the palate which is dense in texture and mouth filling. It was made from a blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Cinsault and 5% Syrah.

2021-2028, M7 D9

Bone marrow crostini Earth, leather

18°C

Plums, cherries

14.5%

Beef and mushroom pie with red wine gravy

photo — Domaine des Cigalons is a peaceful haven where the song of the ciccada, paired with a great wine, soothe the soul.

— CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE CHÂTEAU LA GENESTIÈRE, DOMAINE DES CIGALONS

35

NEW

2419

FRANÇOISE ROUMIEUX SÉLECTION, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2019 Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre $ 41.00

$ 246.00

While the Mayard’s main focus is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the family does produce a small amount of Côtes du Rhône.

The 2019 is a vibrant cherry colour, with aromas of spicy fruits, wood, liquorice and cherry menthol giving lots of appeal. It is supple with a fine-grained texture, vibrant acidity and ripe tannins. It simply exudes class.

NEW

2420

LE HURLEVENT, AOP CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, FAMILLE MAYARD, 2018 Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault $ 72.00

$ 432.00

Fresh youthful aromas of cherries and cooked plums combine with dried fruits and rosemary for a more complex bouquet.

On the palate, it is smooth with a powdery texture and lively vibrant acidity leading to persistent red fruits, bitter cherry and chocolate flavours on the finish. 80% of the blend is Grenache, combined with 10% Syrah and 5% each of Mourvèdre and Cinsault. It was matured in concrete tanks and large old oak foudres for 15 months.

Grapes were grown in the south of the Appellation on clay, silty soils and gravel.

2021-2024, M8 D9 Spicy fruits, wood, cherry menthol

18°C

Cherries, cooked plums, dried fruits, rosemary

18°C

Mellow fruit

14.5%

Red and bitter cherries, chocolate

15%

Veal and winter vegetable pie

36

2022-2030, M6 D8

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

Roasted butternut squash ravioli

VIGNOBLES MAYARD Vignobles Mayard is based in the historic village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape at the heart of the Appellation. At the top of the village are the ruins of a 14th century castle built for Pope John XXII as his summer residence. Run by Françoise, Beatrice and Didier Mayard, the estate has 43 hectares of vines across diverse terroirs in the Appellation.

NEW

2422

NEW

2421

CLOS DU CALVAIRE, AOP CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, FAMILLE MAYARD, 2019 Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault

Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne $ 74.00

$ 444.00

Clos du Calvaire was first created by the Mayard’s grandparents with grapes coming from a selection of different parcels across the Appellation. The cuvée sees no oak and is bottled earlier than other cuvées. The 2019 has over-ripe plum and cherry aromas combined with oregano, thyme and black liquorice. It is smooth with good tannin structure and lingering flavours of dried fruits, cherries and nuts which make it extremely moreish. The blend has a higher proportion of Syrah and reduced Mourvèdre, Cinsault.

Just a small amount of white wine is produced in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and these are highly prized for their ability to age gracefully. White Châteauneufs are textural wines with layers of flavour that make them great for pairing with many foods. Françoise Roumieux Sélection 2019 has aromas of fresh apples and aniseed preceding a supple palate with succulent white fruits. It is elegant with great depth of flavour and a nice bitter pith finish adding length. It is a blend of equal parts of Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Roussanne co-fermented. Grapes were from a single vineyard southwest of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with 40-year-old vines.

2022-2030, M6 D8

2021-2026, M6 D8

$ 79.00

$ 474.00

Ripe plums, cherry, oregano, liquorice

18°C

Fresh apples, aniseed

6°C

Dried fruits, nuts, cherries

15%

Succulent white fruits, citrus pith, [D]

14%

Wagyu beef burger

photo — The vines are located on Lieu-Dit Le Pointu, overlooking Les Dentelles de Montmirail and Provence’s famous Mont Ventoux.

FRANÇOISE ROUMIEUX SÉLECTION, BLANC, AOP CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, 2019

Spinach and ricotta phyllo pie

— CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE VIGNOBLES MAYARD

37

FRANCE

NORTHERN RHÔNE

French Syrah and Viognier In the north of the region, the Rhône river narrows, vineyards cling to steep banks of granite and are exposed to the strong wind known as the Mistral: this is where Syrah is king. Northern Rhône red wines are made from 100% Syrah grapes with the exception of Côte-Rôtie which includes a small amount of white Viognier. The steep slopes mean that viticulture is highly labour intensive and very low yields are produced - the north makes just 5% of Rhône wines.

38

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

photo — Luc Tardy’s father from Domaine du Murinais helps prune the vines.

DOMAINE DU MURINAIS Luc Tardy and his wife, Catherine, farm 17 hectares of vines in the Crozes Hermitage Appellation – their wines are always super-concentrated.

2390

A medium-to full-bodied wine, intense in colour with black cherries, olives and savoury aromas. It is structured yet supple with savoury black olive flavours leading to a long bitter finish. A wine with great potential that needs some time to reach its optimum for drinking. Grapes from 40-50 year-old vines in the south of the Appellation were picked by hand on September 10, 2019, fermented in concrete tanks with a long maceration on skins, then matured in 600-litre barrels for 12 months.

DOMAINE DU MURINAIS, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOP CROZES HERMITAGE, 2019

Syrah $ 48.00

$ 288.00

2022-2030, M5 D6

HERITAGE IN A BOTTLE AND IN YOUR GLASS.

Black cherries, savoury, olive

18°C

Black olive, bitter chocolate

15%

Cacio e pepe

GILLES FLACHER Gilles Flacher has a total of eight hectares of vines split between seven plots on steep hillside slopes in Saint-Joseph and Condrieu Appellations. The steep granite inclines mean everything has to be tended manually – and Gilles harvests and vinifies each plot separately.

2391

GILLES FLACHER, LES REINES, AOP SAINT-JOSEPH, 2019

Syrah $ 354.00

$ 59.00

Elusive aromas of ripe blackberries with a hint of blueberry lead to a rich succulent palate with flavours of cooked black fruits, toast and vanilla. The sweet fruits are balanced by a nice tangy acidity, grainy texture and a more savoury finish. Matured in oak barrels for 12 months using 30% new and 70% oneand two-year-old barrels.

2022-2030, M6 D7 Ripe blackberries, blueberries

16°C

Cooked black fruits, vanilla, toast

14.5%

Cassoulet

photo — Every three weeks, Gilles Flacher completes the natural evaporation of the wine in oak barrels.

This is called the “angels’ share”.

— NORTHERN RHÔNE DOMAINE DU MURINAIS

39

DOMAINE DES REMIZIÈRES Domaine des Remizières, owned by the Desmeure family,has a total of 36 hectares across several appellations including the most prestigious Hermitage. Initially, just four hectares were cultivated by Alphonse Desmeure and the grapes taken to the local cooperative. In the 1970s, the family started making their own wines and expanding the vineyard. Today Philippe, his daughter Emilie and son Christophe work together to make intense, rich and concentrated wines.

DISCOVER THE PREMIUM SYRAH OFFERED BY THIS PRODUCER ON PAGE 54

2392

DOMAINE DES REMIZIÈRES, AOP SAINT-JOSEPH, 2019

Syrah $ 60.00

$ 360.00

A stunning wine. Almost black in colour, Domaine des Remizieres 2019 Saint-Joseph has intense aromas of black cherries, blackcurrant and sweet vanilla. The same intensity of fruit carries through to the palate. It is medium bodied with delicious mellow fruits and vanilla flavours that dawdle in the mouth. It spent 15 months in barrel with 30% new oak. SaintJoseph sometimes gets negative press for “stretching” the Appellation into less suitable sites with a resulting diminution in its wines: this just goes to show that you mustn’t tar everyone with the same brush.

2022-2030, M6 D8 Black cherry, blackcurrant, sweet vanilla

18°C

Mellow fruits and vanilla

14.5%

Duck rillettes with blackberry preserve and baguette toasts

40

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

photo — Christophe, Émilie and Philippe Desmeure are perpetuating a three-generation family tradition with the winery.

DOMAINE CHRISTOPHE PICHON, PÈRE ET FILS Christophe Pichon took over running his family estate from his father some 30 years ago. Around the same time, he purchased an abandoned hillside in SaintJoseph. Today he farms 23 hectares of vines in Côte-Rôtie, Cornas, Saint-Joseph and Condrieu. Both his sons, Corentin and Alexis, work with him in the vineyard and cave to produce concentrated wines with good ageing potential.

NEW

2393

CHRISTOPHE PICHON PÈRE & FILS, AOP SAINT-JOSEPH, 2019

Syrah

2395

$ 59.00

CHRISTOPHE PICHON PÈRE & FILS, AOP CONDRIEU, 2018

$ 354.00

Aromas of incense, toast, black olives and cherries are in abundance. This is a smooth wine with ripe tannins and flavours of liquorice, olives and dark chocolate. Grapes were grown on mid- and upperslopes in Saint-Joseph.

Viognier $ 101.00

$ 303.00

A rich opulent wine with spicy oak, vanilla, peaches and other ripe fruit aromas.

Condrieu in the north of the region, close to Côte-Rôtie, is home of the Viognier grape.

Pichon’s vines are an average of 45 years old and are planted on south-facing terraced slopes. Flavours of pineapple, apricot and vanilla and a richness show through and persist on the palate to give a wine of great length and class. It was fermented and matured in a combination of oak and is perfectly ready for drinking.

2021-2030, M6 D8

2021-2023, M8 D9

Incense, toast, olive, black cherry

16°C

Vanilla, peaches, ripe fruits, spicy oak

12°C

Liquorice, black olive, bitter dark chocolate

14.5%

Pineapple, vanilla, apricot, [D]

14.5%

Red wine-braised beef short ribs

Pâté of salmon and shrimp

— NORTHERN RHÔNE DOMAINE CHRISTOPHE PICHON, PÈRE ET FILS

41

PRODUCERS’ CORNER

Christophe Pichon Domaine Christophe Pichon, Père et Fils

Christophe Pichon farms 23 hectares of vineyards in the northern Rhône Valley, in the prestigious Appellations of Condrieu, Côte-Rôtie, Saint-Joseph and Cornas. The family also produces red and white “Vin de Pays”. The continental climate is influenced by the Mediterranean Sea, with warmer temperatures and fewer precipitations.

Christophe’s father, Philippe, bought the abandoned estate and completed his first harvest at the end of the 1970s, in the Condrieu and Saint-Joseph Appellations, with only a few hectares of vines. He had studied oenology and laid the foundation for quality wines, recognized by his peers.

Christophe took over the estate from his father in 1993 and farms it along with his wife Isabelle and their two sons, Corentin and Alexis. Christophe was instrumental in crafting new wines in new Appellations as well as exporting the wines to foreign countries.

Today, 23 hectares of vines are planted on steep slopes. The Pichons grow Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. The pride of the estate is Condrieu wine (Viognier), but all the vines are tended to in the same manner. Every year the family aims to make a better vintage than the previous year. They use minimal mechanical tools in the vineyard (only to mow grass) and work the soils with the help of a horse, as terraced vineyards are difficult to tend to. The

42

CELLAR 283 — PRODUCERS’ CORNER

Pichons have stopped using agrochemicals to focus on organic farming, encouraged by Corentin. Indeed, Corentin has brought responsible farming to the estate which is now in the process of obtaining France’s HVE3 certification (High Environmental Value, a voluntary approach which aims to identify and promote environmentally friendly practices applied by farmers).

After studying viticulture and oenology, Corentin joined the family business and now manages the farming and vinification aspects of the estate. He brings finesse and elegance to Pichon wines and has been making sulfite-free wines for several years, which will be released for the first time in 2021. Every year he selects native yeasts for each grape variety and terroir to make his unique wines.

Corentin’s brother Alexis spent time in Australia (Tasmania) to learn the tricks of the trade before joining the family winery.

He is in charge of the commercial side of things, particularly with the English-

CHRISTOPHE PICHON PÈRE & FILS, AOP CONDRIEU, 2018, LOT 2395, P41

speaking world. His time in Australia has left him fluent in English, albeit with a charming French accent! Isabelle takes care of accounting, administration and customer relations, but is always ready to lend a hand in the vineyard with the rest of the family.

The Pichons’ biggest upcoming challenge is to build a new, bigger cellar, in order to be able to fine-tune vatting, vinification and aging. They aim to minimize grapes being crushed (trituration) and better control humidity with automatic tools.

This is in line with their current state-ofthe-art equipment and their commitment to respect each Appellation, each grape variety, and each terroir.

The Pichons were introduced to Opimian last year in Cellar 272 with their CôteRôtie, Allégorie and Condrieu cuvées. This year they are coming back with even more wines and are excited for Opimian Members to discover this new vintage!

CHRISTOPHE PICHON PÈRE & FILS, AOP CÔTE-RÔTIE, PROMESSE, 2018

Syrah, Viognier

CHRISTOPHE PICHON PÈRE & FILS, ALLÉGORIE, AOP CORNAS, 2018

Syrah

Côte-Rôtie vines cling to steep granite slopes of terraced vineyards close to Ampuis on the west bank of the Rhône. These are the steepest slopes of the Rhône Valley, with the gradient reaching 60% at certain points. Vines facing southeast literally roast all day long under the summer sun – hence, “rotie.” Côte-Rôtie wines can include up to 20% white Viognier; in this case, Christophe uses 6% which brings delicacy and softness.

The 2018 Promesse, made from 50-year-old vines, has aromas of liquorice, cherries and resin which lead to a smooth palate. It is concentrated and full bodied with flavours of bitter chocolate, vanilla and cherry jam followed by a lingering menthol finish.

2022-2032, M5 D7 Cherries, liquorice, resin

16°C

Vanilla, cherry jam, menthol, bitter chocolate

14.5%

MIXED CASE 2394

The Cornas Appellation is also on the west bank of the Rhône, some 70 kilometres further south of Côte-Rôtie. Christophe has approximately one hectare at 400 metres altitude facing southeast and fully exposed to the Mistral. This is a more savoury wine with aromas of cooked fruit and vanilla; it is rich and smooth with black cherries and succulent fruits combined with a juicy acidity and fine texture. Youthful, it is well balanced and should develop nice tertiary characters.

2022-2030, M6 D8 Cooked fruits, savoury, vanilla

16°C

Black cherries, dark chocolate

14.5%

DOMAINE CHRISTOPHE PICHON PÈRE ET FILS

$ 90.00

$ 540.00

A mixed case from two of the northern Rhône’s top Appellations. The 2018 vintage was a hot dry year with a plentiful crop of ripe grapes. The wines are powerful with long cellaring potential.

THREE BOTTLES EACH CORNAS & CÔTE-RÔTIE

Braised beef in the style of Rhône sailors (marinated beef with anchovies, capers and gherkins)

London broil with balsamic-Dijon sauce

— NORTHERN RHÔNE DOMAINE CHRISTOPHE PICHON, PÈRE ET FILS

43

FRANCE

CHABLIS

Lamblin Fils MALIGNY-PAR-CHABLIS Chablis, at the northern end of Burgundy, is renowned for the distinctive white wines produced from its calcareous chalky soils planted to Chardonnay. These highly distinctive wines are restrained yet powerful and taut with high acidity – some can last for decades. The Lamblin family have been making Chablis at Maligny for years and can trace their family history to 1690, making them one of the region’s oldest vine-growing families.

44

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

photo — Colette Lamblin, Alexandre’s daughter, two and a half years old, looks at the bunch of grapes in formation.

2424

BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY, AOC, 2019

Chardonnay $ 31.00

2423

BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ, AOC, 2019

Aligoté $ 186.00

Subtle white fruits and oatmeal aromas with a linear restrained palate reflect the northern provenance of this white Burgundy.

It is supple but with a firm acidity and stone fruit flavours.

$ 30.00

$ 180.00

Mineral steely aromas combine with nuts and bready notes. This is a supple medium-bodied wine with nice mid-palate fruits: nectarines and peaches with a touch of mandarin.

2021-2023, M8 D9 Oatmeal, white fruits

6°C

Stone fruits, [D]

13%

Pasta with lobster cream sauce

2021-2023, M8 D9 Steely, mineral, bread dough

6°C

Nectarine, peaches, [D]

12.5%

Munster cheese

photo — Last sorting before the wine press.

— CHABLIS LAMBLIN FILS

45

2425

2426

CHABLIS, AOC, 2019

Chardonnay $ 41.00

CHABLIS, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOC, 2019

Chardonnay $ 246.00

$ 42.00

$ 252.00

A smooth medium-bodied Chablis with flavours of yellow plums and nectarines.

It is approachable with some length.

Made from grapes grown on older vines – 35 years and older – the Vieilles Vignes cuvée is tighter and more closed than the straight Chablis at this point. It is steely with some white blossom and a crisp dry finish with flavours of fresh lime and lemons.

2021-2023, M7 D9

2021-2024, M6 D8

Nectarines, yellow plum

6°C

Steely, white blossom

6°C

Supple, peaches, nectarine, [D]

12.5%

Lemon, lime, [D]

12.5%

Oysters

Poached salmon with beurre blanc

2429

LAMBLIN FILS BRUT ROSÉ CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE, AOC

Pinot Noir $ 44.00

$ 264.00

Pale salmon in colour with aromas of blackcurrant and strawberry leaf, it has nice depth on the palate. Well balanced with crisp acidity and presence.

2021-2022, M8 D9 Blackcurrant, strawberry leaf

6°C

Crisp, [D]

12%

Crab soufflé

46

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

photo — Pruning in a Chablis vineyard.

2427

CHABLIS PREMIER CRU CASE

$ 66.00

$ 396.00

CHABLIS PREMIER CRU, VAILLON, AOC CHABLIS 1ER CRU, 2019

Chablis has a very clear quality hierarchy based on vineyard site: a combination of soil and exposition, the heart of production for Chablis are Kimmeridgian soils from the Jurassic period. Vineyards with greater quality potential form the Premier Crus and at the pinnacle of quality are the Grand Cru sites which produce the richest, longest-lived wines.

MIXED CASE THREE BOTTLES EACH VAILLON & FOURCHAUME

CHABLIS PREMIER CRU, FOURCHAUME, AOC CHABLIS 1ER CRU, 2019

Chardonnay Chardonnay Hints of honey and spice lead to a supple palate with concentration and real presence.

It was quite closed at time of tasting but is well balanced with structure and should develop nicely. Vaillon vineyards lie across the river Serein opposite the Grand Cru hill facing southeast.

The Fourchaume is more open and has a little more weight than Vaillon in 2019.

Aromas of fresh green apples, lime and honey combine with a flinty character. It is rich and supple with a crisp finish.

2021-2025, M6 D8

2021-2026, M6 D8

Honeyed spice

6°C

Fresh apples, lime, honey

6°C

Concentrated structure, [D]

13%

Flint, honeyed fruit [D]

13%

Gruyère gougères

photo — Plowing the vineyard with a horse avoids compacting the soil too much as with a machine.

Escargots à la Bourguignonne

— CHABLIS LAMBLIN FILS

47

MIXED CASE THREE BOTTLES EACH LES CLOS & VAUDÉSIR

CHABLIS GRAND CRU, LES CLOS, AOC CHABLIS GRAND CRU, 2019

Chardonnay

Chardonnay

Lots of potential, it is well balanced with structure and depth. Youthful fresh floral and fruit aromas, green apples become more peachy, with honey and spices on the palate. It has layers of flavour with a persistent finish. Les Clos faces southwest directly opposite the town of Chablis.

2021-2028, M5 D7 Fresh apples, floral

6°C

Peaches, honey, spice, [D]

13%

Scallop carpaccio

CHABLIS GRAND CRU, VAUDÉSIR, AOC CHABLIS GRAND CRU, 2018

I tasted both this 2018 and the 2019 for this selection – and found the 2018 to have the edge currently. On the palate, it is rich and concentrated. A little shy on the nose, it opens up to reveal honey, fresh oranges and pineapple flavours. A bitter citruspith finish gives presence and persistence finishing with tangerine notes. Vaudésir is like an amphitheatre in shape: vines sit on steep slopes in an east-west valley within the Grand Cru hill so that half the vines face south, the other southwest.

2021-2028, M7 D9 Fresh oranges, honey

6°C

Tangerine, citrus pith, [D]

13%

Pot de foie with crostini

ORDER LAMBLIN’S CRÈME DE FRUIT MIXED CASE ONLINE, LOT 2433.

2428

CHABLIS GRAND CRU CASE

$ 110.00

$ 660.00

The apogee of the region, Chablis’ seven Grand Crus are in a single block on a hill across the river from the town of Chablis, as the river bends westward then north, eventually flowing to Maligny. Depending on the Cru, vines face south or westward and are planted on an incline between 100250 metres. Les Clos and Vaudésir are often considered the best of the best.

48

CELLAR 283 — PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

photo — Winter in Chablis.

FRANCE

BURGUNDY

Paul Sapin Paul Sapin is a wine merchant company founded in southern Burgundy in 1889.

Based at La Chapelle de Guinchay, Sapin lies on the doorstep of the Mâcon region, its Chardonnay vineyards and growers. Sapin’s oenologist, Julien Desfetes, works closely in partnership with local growers and individual estates to produce a range of wines reflecting their terroir.

2434

PAUL SAPIN MÂCON-VILLAGES, LA COLLECTION, AOP, 2020

Chardonnay $ 31.00

2435

PAUL SAPIN SAINT-VÉRAN, LA COLLECTION, AOP, 2020

Chardonnay $ 186.00

$ 39.00

2436

DOMAINE MONT-SAINT-GILBERT, AOP SAINT-VÉRAN, VIN DE BOURGOGNE, 2019

Chardonnay $ 234.00

$ 44.00

$ 264.00

Mâconnais wines are produced at the far southern end of Burgundy, juxtaposed in style to those produced at the northern extremity in Chablis: Mâconnais wines are much more approachable in youth, broader in structure yet lighter in weight. Tasted as a cloudy sample direct from tank, the 2020 has nice grapefruit, pear and citrus flavours.

Tropical fruits, pineapple and apricot are complemented by bready, biscuit and oatmeal characters. Grapes were picked with some skin contact and a proportion fermented in oak barrels.

Soft with good mid-palate weight, 2019 Domaine Saint-Gilbert has aromas of aniseed, fennel, white peaches and pears. It has a smooth texture, fruity with some fresh apple flavours and nice acidity. It was fermented in tank then matured on fine yeast lees for 10 months.

2021-2023, M8 D9

2021-2023, M8 D9

2021-2023, M8 D9

Grapefruit, pears

6°C

Bread dough, oatmeal, biscuit

6°C

Aniseed, white peaches, pears

6°C

Citrus, [D]

13.5%

Tropical fruits, apricot, [D]

13.5%

Fresh green apples, fennel, [D]

13%

Charcuterie with jellied ham terrine

Butternut squash risotto

Sushi

— BURGUNDY PAUL SAPIN

49

WINE TOURISM

heard about ABC: Anything But Chardonnay?

ABC? Go for Ever At Opimian, we don’t believe in excluding grape varieties, but we do recommend Burgundy whites…

Burgundy! they will reconcile you with Chardonnay!

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT BURGUNDY AND RELATED COCKTAIL RECIPES ONLINE ON OUR BLOG.

By Colette Martin

The white wines of Burgundy are considered to be the benchmark for Chardonnay producers globally. The unique terroir and traditional winemaking result in a product that is much revered, often emulated but never duplicated anywhere else in the world. In fact, Burgundy enthusiasts feel it is so unique that even the most ardent naysayers of Chardonnay can be swayed by a nice bottle of Chablis.

Chardonnay, while one of the most planted white grape varieties and found in almost every region where wine is produced, is still synonymous with Burgundy today. High-quality white Burgundy wines are thought to be made from Fromenteau, the ancestor of Pinot Gris. Chardonnay is a much later addition to Burgundy’s vineyards. Other white varietals that you will find include Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Aligoté. Aligoté grapes can be grown anywhere in Burgundy and are typically characterized by a light fruitiness of apple and lemon with a hint of floral notes and vibrant mouthfeel.

BURGUNDY WHITE WINES Broadly speaking, there are four main white producing areas.

Bourgogne Blanc Easy sipping whites, unoaked with notes of apple, lemon citrus and minerality. It is the basic wine appellation for the region which means the grapes can come from anywhere in Burgundy. Pairs well with white meat or a hot patio on a Sunday afternoon.

Chablis Located in the northernmost region and known for chalky soils. Typically Chablis wines are unoake=d with a green apple, lime/citrus flavour that is crisp and dry with

CHABLIS GRAND CRU CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH: LES CLOS & VAUDÉSIR, LOT 2428, P48

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CELLAR 283 — TITLE

great acidity. There is also a briny salinity to this wine which makes it a pairing made in heaven for oysters. Some of the Grand Cru producers will oak their wine to give it a richer mouthfeel.

Mâconnais Also typically unoaked with softer fruit flavours like melon, apple and tropical fruit, owing to its location at the southern end of Burgundy and a slightly warmer climate. These pair well with mildly complex dishes or cured meats.

Côte de Beaune This would be the most complex of the white Burgundy wines with deep aromas and flavours of yellow apple, golden pear and even earthy flavours like truffles. The oak aging will yield well balanced spiciness and brioche aromas. This can be thoroughly enjoyed on their own or paired with rich fish or creamy risotto.

A cru in Burgundy designates a high-quality vineyard plot which may be owned by various wineries. These plots, also called “climats” are carefully delineated, have their own history and benefit from specific geological and climatic conditions.

Grand Cru – These are the elite of Burgundy wine. Most famous plots with the best conditions for quality wines. These plots are higher up on the hill with greater sun exposure and good drainage.

Premier Cru – Within certain communal appellations there are plots that have been established and classified as Premier Cru (first growth), based on the consistency of their quality. These may be further down a hillside with less sun exposure.

Village – Communal Appellation, located most often on the flat lands, the wine will carry the name of the village where it is produced.

Bourgogne – Regional Appellation – grapes come from anywhere within Burgundy.

SCOTLAND

Pràban na Linne ISLE OF SKYE Produced by one of the few independent whisky companies in Scotland which is based on the Isle of Skye. The master blender blends sweet Speyside malts with smoky peat-flavoured malts from the Islay. These are matured on the idyllic Isle of Skye and bottled un-chilfiltered to retain maximum flavour.

2444

AN LAMRAIG, BLENDED SCOTCH WHISKY

Whisky $ 79.00

40% $ 474.00

A blended scotch golden in colour, it has sweet notes and the palate is smooth with sweet vanilla and toffee flavours with a hint of smoke on finish.

2445

CÙL NA CREAGAN 12 YEAR OLD, BLENDED MALT SCOTCH WHISKY

Whisky $ 118.00

43% $ 708.00

Golden colour, sweet fruits with some fresh citrus over earthy background. Supple initially with round body and sweet vanilla fruits.

2446

CÙL NA CREAGAN 21 YEAR OLD, BLENDED MALT SCOTCH WHISKY

Whisky $ 242.00

43% $ 1452.00

Deeper amber colour, rich vanilla, woody aroma, sweet rich fragrance, much more depth on nose. Woody, vanilla flavours, tangy peaty finish.

— SCOTLAND PRÀBAN NA LINNE

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RECIPES

Gin-tastic Cocktails Hamish Martin, a former wine merchant and whisky blender turned herbologist, started making natural products and experimenting with gin in 2012.

Hamish used a small three-litre still to create his first floral, colour-changing gin from the Apothecary’s rose.

The distillery was founded shortly after, in 2017, with a head distiller appointed. “I always say when working with nature if you have a limitless imagination there are limitless possibilities,” says Hamish. His passion for herbs, plants, and distilling has translated to chemicalfree, nature-based gins that are 100% natural and handcrafted. His products are an example of how to farm sustainably, hand-in-hand with nature.

MALLOW MARTINI • 37.5ml Geranium & Mallow Gin • 12.5ml raspberry liqueur • 50ml fresh pineapple juice • Dash bitters • Dash egg white (optional) Add all ingredients to shaker. Dry shake, then add ice and wet shake. Double strain into classic Champagne coupe and garnish with raspberry.

ROSE & APPLE SOUR • 40ml Apothecary Rose Gin • 5ml smoky whisky (optional) • 20ml cloudy apple juice • 20ml fresh lemon juice • 10ml sugar syrup • 1 egg white Add all ingredients to cocktail shaker, dry shake, wet shake, strain over cubed ice in a rocks glass.

Apple fan/slice garnish.

I met Hamish, a wine merchant turned herbologist, some 18 months ago and was blown away by his gins – his flavour combinations are outstanding and innovative. The colour change on adding tonic water adds another dimension to the drinking experience.

I’LL BRING YOU FLOWERS • 50ml Lavender & Echinacea Gin • 10ml Cointreau / Triple Sec • 20ml lemon juice • 1 spoon orange marmalade Pour gin and marmalade into bottom of shaker and stir until marmalade dissolves. Addrest of ingredients, shake and double strain into martini glass. Garnish with fresh lavender tied around stem of glass, or edible flower floating on top.

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CELLAR 283 — COLLECTOR’S CORNER

THE SECRET GARDEN DISTILLERY LTD

VISIT OUR BLOG TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT HAMISH AND THE SECRET GARDEN DISTILLERY.

I love the fact that Hamish grows all the ingredients he uses in his botanical garden (which I was looking forward to visiting this year but had to postpone). The garden on the outskirts of Edinburgh has 600 different varieties of herbs and flowers. Each is handpicked de-stemmed and dried, a process taking up to two weeks. Juniper, coriander, angelica and winter savory are used to create The Secret Garden base gin. Different plant distillates are used for flavour and fresh flowers macerated to infuse colour. Pouring tonic water into the gin changes its colour – like magic.

APOTHECARY ROSE Aromas of fresh roses with lemon, Turkish delight and juniper continue onto the palate with lots of lychee and candied cherry flavours. Hamish is the largest grower of Apothecary roses in UK, an ingredient in tinctures and tonics in times gone by. The colour changes from a pale golden colour to pink with tonic.

PINK ELDERFLOWER & JASMINE One of Secret Garden’s newest flavour combinations, it has delightful fruity floral aromas smelling of passion fruit, mango and ripe white peaches. A slight sweetness on the palate comes from the natural sweetness of the plants.

LAVENDER & ECHINACEA My favourite in the range. A beautiful bluey-mauve colour transforms to pink in front of your eyes as tonic is added.

Delicate fresh lavender, violet and aniseed aromas with a delicious floral and herbal finish.

2443

LIMITED BATCH GERANIUM & MALLOW SECRET GARDEN GIN

Gin

46%

$ 139.00

$ 417.00

COLLECTOR’S CORNER

RARE FINDS TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

A limited-batch gin with a higher proof at 46%, it has delicate floral flavours to match its delicate baby pink colour with tonic water.

Geranium is a plant rich in aromas of fresh green tea and floral notes. Mallow has a delicate musky smell and was highly regarded as a medicinal plant by Native Americans used to treat wounds and inflammations.

ONE BOTTLE EACH APOTHECARY ROSE, PINK ELDERFLOWER & JASMINE, LAVENDER & ECHINACEA

COLLECTOR’S CORNER

MIXED CASE 2442

THE SECRET GARDEN GIN CASE

Gin $ 113.00

39%

evolution

$ 339.00 Aroma

16°C

Taste

12%

Pairing

— CELLAR 283 COLLECTOR’S CORNER

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FROM DOMAINE DES REMIZIÈRES

2396

The wines produced from vineyards on Rhône’s Hermitage hill have long been fêted as some of France’s best. The hill lies on the east bank of the river, sitting behind the town of Tain-l’Hermitage with vineyards facing due west and south and thus protected from the cold north winds. Domaine des Remizieres has been in Philippe Desmeure’s family for three generations: Cuvée Emilie is named after Philippe’s daughter. The 2018 is a fullbodied wine, smooth yet muscular. It has aromas of cherry jam, cocoa and incense.

Quite tight on the palate, it needs time and has a nice savoury finish with good depth.

DOMAINE DES REMIZIÈRES, AOP HERMITAGE, CUVÉE EMILIE , 2018

Syrah $ 157.00

$ 471.00

2022-2035, M5 D6 Cherry jam, cocoa powder, incense

18°C

Savoury muscular wine

14%

Sesame and soy sauce-marinated grilled chicken thighs

evolution Aroma

16°C

Taste

12%

Pairing

54

CELLAR 283 — COLLECTOR’S CORNER

COLLECTOR’S CORNER

RARE FINDS TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

FROM DOYARD-MAHÉ A specialty from Champagne, Ratafia is the region’s fortified dessert wine. The tangy acidity, so much an important part of the taste of Champagne, confers a Madeiralike quality. It is mahogany in colour with intense nutty smoky fruit aromas. This is a complex wine with great depth – the acidity keeps it vibrant and well balanced. It was produced by arresting the fermentation of Pinot Noir with the addition of grape spirit – - the spirit used by Carole Doyard was itself distilled from wine from Doyard-Mahé’s second pressings or “deuxieme taille” wine.

These can add astringency to a cuvée, so separating this cut from the purest juice is what helps Carole to make such fresh elegant Champagnes. The Ratafia was matured using a solera system established in 2005, firstly in tank then in barrel.

2375

RATAFIA, DOYARD-MAHÉ DM

Blend of Champagne grapes $ 104.00

$ 312.00 evolution 2021-2028, M8 D9

Aroma

16°C

Nutty, smoke, fruit

8°C

Taste

12%

Dried fruits, Madeira acidity, [S]

18%

Pairing

Sticky toffee pudding — CELLAR 283 COLLECTOR’S CORNER

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REVEAL THE REMARKABLE A CONNOISSEUR’S DREAM. Exclusive to this program, Founders Choice wines are not available elsewhere in the Cellar Offering and won’t be for another five years.

Dedicated to the spirit of our Founders, this program presents only the finest wines. From our producers’ cellars to yours, this is an opportunity to experience another level of quality. This case of one premium wine is curated with the potential to age.

Included in your six bottle case, you will find tasting notes and a special message from the producer to treasure. he Founders Choice producer for this Cellar is the Rhône’s Domaine de Pieblanc.

SUBSCRIBE NOW $208

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per Cellar Offering