cellar
SK
271 Order between
November 11 and
December 16, 2019
NEW ZEALAND AND AUSTRALIA
Ordering Made Easy Legend Grape variety Red - White - Rosé Sparkling - Port Bottle size
Number of bottles in case
Aroma
Taste
Serving temperature
Ideal with Evolution Drink this year Will develop, drink within 2 years Meant for cellaring Concentration Light - Medium - Great
1. SELECT YOUR WINES Let yourself be inspired by our detailed descriptions to find out which wines best suit your palate. Our custom chart on the left also features a variety of user-friendly symbols that can guide your selection. Still unsure what to order? Opimian’s Member Service team is always available to help you make an informed choice. Call us at 1-800-361-9421 or e-mail MemberService@Opimian.ca. 2. PLACE YOUR ORDER Last day to order for this Cellar Offering is Monday, December 16, 2019 at 9 a.m. EDT. No orders will be processed after this time. There are four ways to order: • Online: Go to Opimian.ca, sign in and select Order Wine. • Email MemberService@Opimian.ca with your selection. • Call 1-800-361-9421, Monday-Friday, 9am - 5pm ET. • Mail your order by December 6, 2019. Please allow 10 days for delivery by Canada Post. 3. LET US HANDLE THE REST The wines featured on this Cellar Offering are still at the producers’ wineries when you order them, so it is normal that the process takes a bit of time and effort on our side. Release dates are dependent upon actual arrival dates, distance from port of entry to liquor board and processing time required by each liquor board. For this Cellar Offering, the expected release date is May 2020. Once the wine arrives at your local liquor store or distribution centre, you will receive a Pick-up Notice with the specified date (the Release Date) and your pick-up location.
Conditions of Purchase • Accepted payment methods: Credit Card (Visa, MasterCard, American Express) or cheque payable to Opimian. • Prices include all applicable federal and provincial markups and taxes. • A valid membership card is required to order. • Bottle prices are for reference only. All orders are by the case, with no minimum required.
Oak Light - Medium - Heavy Organic
Vegan/vegetarian Limited quantities Limited Very limited Extremely limited Less than 100 cases available Members’ Choice 2019 favourite Opimian Suggests Starting a cellar Medal Winner Discovery 2019 Discovery Program Case - C262 Select Plus 2019 Select Plus Program Case - C262 M—Degree of Maturity (1-10) M1 = lay down M10 = fully mature
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D—Degree of Drinkability (1-10) D1 = needs time D10 = ready to drink
OPIMIAN WINE CLUB DE VIN —
300 - 2170 RENÉ-LÉVESQUE WEST MONTREAL QC H3H 2T8
Sweetness scale
Grams/litre
Examples
[00]
0-3
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, many reds
[01]
4-6
Some New World varietals, some reds
[02]
7 - 12
Champagne, Sparkling, Rosés, few reds
[03]
13 - 20
Mosel, some Alsace, Anjou
[04]
21 - 34
Semi-sweet Bordeaux, some sherry
[05]
35 - 50
Kabinett German, Late Harvest, Alsace
[06]
51 - 74
Spätlese German, Sweet Loire, Port, Dessert Muscat
[07]
75 - 100
Auslese, Beerenauslese
[08]
101 - 139
Icewines, Sauternes, Barsac, dessert wines, Port
[09]
140 - 179
Icewines, Sauternes, Barsac, dessert wines, Port
[10]
180 >
Speciality sweet wines, Trockenbeerenauslese
Australia
New Zealand
Cellar 271
New Zealand and Australia I always look forward to the first offering of the Opimian season, as it is also an opportunity for me to taste the first made wines of the year. As I write this, European winemakers are gearing themselves up for the 2019 harvest. In the Antipodes, this was done and dusted some six months ago, although many of the wines will still be in tank or barrel for some time. A dry start to the 2019 growing season in Australia continued in most wine regions, and water for irrigation was strictly controlled. Temperatures early in the season were mild, until January saw some extreme heat waves in South Eastern Australia, but quality has turned out to be excellent and crop levels good. New Zealand also had a very good vintage — possibly the best ever, with perfect growing conditions, low disease pressure and lovely weather during harvest. In this offering we introduce a new producer from Marlborough, Glover Family Vineyards, whose Massey Dacta wines are made by Ben Glover.
JANE MASTERS MW, OPIMIAN’S MASTER OF WINE Every wine offered by Opimian is tasted and selected for its deliciousness and value by our consultant Master of Wine, Jane Masters. Jane also chooses the mixed cases for Opimian’s Discovery and Select Plus subscription programs for members to discover wines in an easy and enjoyable way, as well as wines for the premium Founders’ Choice program. Jane has an in-depth knowledge of the world of wine. Her aim is to share her experience and love of wine with members in an easy and informal manner. She is one of 390 Masters of Wine worldwide and was elected Chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine 2016-2018 by her peers.
cover — Briar Ridge: “The wines we create are a combination of hard
work, rich soil and flavour combinations that are worth savouring. They are best enjoyed and shared with family and friends!”
FEATURED Glover Family Vineyards ----------------4 Sam Harrop Wine-----------------------8 Dan Struckman----------------------- 12 Berton Vineyards --------------------- 14 Wingara Wine Group------------------ 20 Hastwell & Lightfoot Vineyards-------- 24 Wines by Geoff Hardy ----------------- 28 Briar Ridge Vineyard------------------ 34 Chapman Grove Wines---------------- 38
— CELLAR 271 SASKATCHEWAN
3
4
CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
NEW ZEALAND
Marlborough
Glover Family Vineyards The Glover family are pioneering grape growers at Dillon’s Point in Marlborough, three kilometres from the sea along the banks of the Opawa River. The vineyard was previously a dairy farm, but sick of the early morning starts (as early as 4 a.m.), Owen Glover decided to convert to vineyards in 1988. His eldest son Ben studied winemaking and spent the last 18 years in senior winemaking roles before joining the family business full time in 2016 to run the family operation. Ben’s younger brother Jack grew up alongside the first plantings and also decided on a career in wine. He is currently enrolled in the Master of Wine program. The Glovers produce flavoursome wines with great personality and a sense of place. The Massey Dacta range is named after the Massey Ferguson tractor, which was widely used in New Zealand. The farm was synonymous with the big red tractor, but the name was such a mouthful that from very early on it became known as the “Massey Dacta”.
photo — Ben Glover takes a crisp early morning spring stroll in the vineyards.
— NEW ZEALAND GLOVER FAMILY VINEYARDS
5
NEW
NEW
DACTA SAUVIGNON 1546 MASSEY BLANC, MARLBOROUGH, 2019 Sauvignon Blanc $ 29.00
1547
MASSEY DACTA RIESLING, MARLBOROUGH, 2018 Riesling
$ 174.00
Sauvignon Blanc is synonymous with New Zealand, especially from the region of Marlborough in the top of the South Island. The variety represents over 60% of the nation’s plantings. Marlborough has low seasonal rainfall, lots of sunlight and a large shift in temperature between day and night – all of which go to producing flavoursome grapes. Ben’s 2019 Massey Dacta Sauvignon Blanc is very pale in colour with appealing fruit aromas of fresh apples, pear drops, gooseberries and a hint of flintiness in the background. Soft and supple on the palate, it is refreshing and easy drinking, with flavours of passionfruit, lime and sour green apples.
$ 29.00
DACTA PINOT GRIS, 1548 MASSEY MARLBOROUGH, 2019 Pinot Gris
$ 174.00
$ 29.00
$ 174.00
Massey Dacta 2018 Riesling is a classic varietal wine with delicious lime cordial aromas and spices, earth and yeasty notes. Hints of diesel and smoke are not overly dominant but add character. This is an off-dry wine which is soft and supple and has flavours of Golden Delicious apples. The sweetness is offset by a balanced acidity and finishes with a slightly astringent limey finish. Riesling grapes came from a small 1.5-hectare block planted in 1991. A specific yeast, Siha 7, was used to add texture. The long slow fermentation was arrested to give an ideal balance between sweetness and acidity. 2020-2022, M8 D9
2020-2021, M8 D9 Fresh apples, gooseberries, flint
NEW
Diesel, yeast, spice
6°C
5°C
Sour green apples, limes, passion fruit, [01] Spinach salad with apples, walnuts and goat cheese
Lime cordial, fresh Golden Delicious apples, [02] Spicy shrimp salad
Aromas of fresh red apples and spice precede a medium-bodied palate with a broad structure and crisp acidity and a basketful of passionfruit, apple and other fruit flavours. This is a dry white wine with a broad layered texture. Grapes came from relatively young vines planted in 2010 in a three-hectare block in the Alice Mills vineyard. Some of the grapes were left on skins for a short time and the balance directly pressed. After fermentation, the wine was left on lees for several months. 2020-2021, M8 D9 Fresh apples
6°C
Passionfruit, apples, crisp acidity, [01] Prosciutto-wrapped baked camembert
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CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
NEW
1550
MASSEY DACTA PINOT NOIR, MARLBOROUGH, 2019 Pinot Noir $ 32.00
NEW
1549
MASSEY DACTA CHARDONNAY, MARLBOROUGH, 2018 Chardonnay $ 32.00
$ 192.00
2020-2022, M8 D9 Toasty oak, vanilla, buttered toast
6°C
Custard, peaches, passionfruit, lemon curd, [00] Warm Cajun chicken salad
photo — The Glover Family’s organic vineyard, looking south.
An oaked Chardonnay with lots of toasty, vanilla, buttery and custard aromas, it blew me away. Oaky flavours are complemented with peaches and passionfruit which are followed by a long lemon curd finish. It has medium weight on the palate with a good acidity. Pretty much left to its own devices, Chardonnay grapes were whole bunch pressed to barrel and not looked at again until the following spring. Wild yeast carried out the fermentation at 24°C, with certain barrels naturally going through malolactic fermentation. Ben checked the barrels the following spring to see which needed to complete fermentation and the final blend was bottled in January. If you like oaked Chardonnay, this is an absolute delight.
$ 192.00
Tasted as a cask sample, intense redcurrant, blackcurrant cordial and floral aromas give lots of appeal. Massey Dacta 2019 Pinot Noir is medium bodied with a supple palate with light soft tannins complemented by a firm acidity and crunchy blackcurrant finish. Grapes were bought in from a friend’s hillside vineyard called Rawiri. The vineyard is planted with a mix of three clones of Pinot Noir 777, 115 and 667. After fermentation in open-top fermenters with hand plunging, the wine was transferred to barrel where it will remain until bottling in January. 2020-2023, M7 D9 Redcurrant, blackcurrant cordial, floral
14°C
Supple, blackcurrant Veal roast blanquette with mushrooms
— NEW ZEALAND GLOVER FAMILY VINEYARDS
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CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
photo — Charlie and George Harrop, Sam’s children, climbing a majestic Pohutukawa tree in Whakanewha, Waiheke Island.
NEW ZEALAND Waiheke Island
The island country that is New Zealand consists of up to 600 islands in the South-West Pacific, the largest inhabited and best-known islands being the North and South Islands. Its nearest neighbour, Australia, lies 2,000 miles away. Waiheke Island is located off the coast of the North Island about 22 miles east of Auckland, New Zealand’s most populous city. Waiheke is just 12 miles wide from east to west and varies between 0.4 to 6 miles north to south, with 83 miles of coastline and hilly terrain. This idyllic spot is the place that Sam Harrop calls home. Sam is based in Waiheke much of the year with his wife Karlie and their two small boys and makes his own wines on the island. His wines are made with a thoughtful attention to detail and no holds barred approach. The results are complex yet elegant wines with a sense of place, well balanced with relatively low alcohol levels at 12 to 12.5%.
Sam Harrop Wine
As well as being an accomplished international winemaker, judge, author and Master of Wine, Sam is an extremely proud New Zealander and is devoted to challenging and promoting others as part of the Fine Wines of New Zealand program.
1551
CEDALION SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY, ARAE, WAIHEKE ISLAND, 2016 Chardonnay $ 76.00
$ 456.00
2020-2026, M6 D7 Peaches, yogurt, savoury edge, vanilla
6°C
Lemon, mandarin, fresh apple, [00] Turkey breast filet with blue cheese sauce
Cedalion are super premium, hand crafted, lovingly made wines with no expense spared. Grapes for this single vineyard wine come from a small spectacular plot in Church Bay on Waiheke Island. Vines are planted on a mix of clay and limestone on a south-west facing slope on the west coast of Waiheke. 2016 was the lowest yielding vintage Sam ever experienced on Waiheke. The wine is of exceptional elegance, pale lime in colour, it has some savoury notes with yogurt and fruit, Rainier cherries, a hint of vanilla, peach and a slight floral whiff. On the palate, more citrus notes emerge with lemon and mandarin followed by fresh apple and vanilla. It is crisp and pure with a linear structure. Despite several years in bottle at the time of tasting, it is a mere babe and has a great future ahead of it.
— NEW ZEALAND SAM HARROP WINE
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MIXED CASE Two bottles each Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc & Syrah
1553
SAM HARROP GRAND AMATEUR CASE $ 58.00
NEW
1552
ONETANGI SYRAH, WAIHEKE ISLAND, 2018 Syrah $ 72.00
$ 432.00
2022-2030, M5 D6 Lavender, dark fruits
18°C
Structured, restrained Montreal spice marinated lambchops
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CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
There is only a total of 50 hectares of Syrah planted on Waiheke, but the reputation for producing outstanding wines is growing and will surely encourage more. The Jomara Vineyard in Onetangi (a Maori name meaning weeping sands) is planted on steeply terraced clay slopes facing north-west. Grapes receive just the right amount of sunshine and warmth to fully ripen. The nearby ocean provides cool breezes in the afternoon so that the grapes keep natural acidity, freshness and elegance. Still an infant, this wine is delicious to drink now but requires patience to reach its zenith. Aromas are restrained with notes of lavender and dark fruits. The palate is tight, revealing very little currently but firm dark fruits with great structure and depth. Syrah was fermented in open-top fermenters with hand plunging twice daily. Malolactic fermentation and aging were done in new and old oak barrels for eight months.
$ 348.00
Grand Amateur wines are made by Sam as “a nod to brave and curious souls, past and present, who pursue their own beliefs, fund their own discoveries and pave their own paths”. Each wine is based on a single varietal, handmade and crafted for the love of wine and the people who enjoy it, with only small quantities produced. Sam has put together a mixed case of three varietals from the 2018 vintage specially for Opimian Members. Hawke’s Bay, in the North Island, is 300 kilometres north of Marlborough and 360 kilometres south of Auckland. Its climate is one of the warmest in New Zealand, similar to but cooler than Bordeaux. 2018 was a superb growing season and outstanding vintage in Hawke’s Bay.
photo — Sam Harrop is tasting the new vintage Chardonnay.
GRAND AMATEUR WATCHMAKER, CHARDONNAY, HAWKE’S BAY, 2018 Chardonnay
GRAND AMATEUR MERCHANT, CABERNET FRANC, HAWKE’S BAY, 2018 Cabernet Franc
Syrah
Bright in colour with fresh cream and limey aromas, this is an elegant supple wine with bags of appeal. It has fresh fruits with subtle vanilla oak, a fine texture and a long mineral finish. Sam has created a cooler style from Hawke’s Bay, with the wine fermented in a mixture of old and new French oak barrels. Grapes were picked by hand on March 7, 2018 and whole bunch pressed. The juice was chilled and left to settle for three days then racked and fermented using traditional Burgundian yeast. Relatively low in alcohol at 12.5%, it did not undergo malolactic fermentation and was bottled without filtration to retain its natural and refreshing fruit characters.
Sam is a fan and long-time proponent of Cabernet Franc. He has worked with growers in the Loire and helped many to improve their red wines. Grand Amateur Merchant grapes were grown in one of Hawke’s Bay’s most exciting Cabernet Franc vineyards – The Howell Family Vineyard. It is a complex wine brimming with mulberries, red cherries and red liquorice. It is supple and smooth with ripe forest fruits and an elegant long finish complemented by cedary notes in the background. Grapes were picked by hand on April 12, 2018, de-stemmed and fermented in open-top stainless-steel fermenters. It was subsequently matured in old and new 300-litre Hogsheads for 11 months then bottled without filtration.
2020-2026, M7 D8
2021-2028, M6 D7
Lime, custard, ripe white fruits
6°C
Mulberries, red cherries, red liquorice
GRAND AMATEUR GENTLEMAN, SYRAH, HAWKE’S BAY, 2018
18°C
Stone fruits, supple, [00]
Elegant, complex with lingering red fruit finish
Roast chicken with an apple and pear dressed salad
Pepper steak with red wine sauce over potato pancake
Deep in colour with youthful cassis and herb aromas, this 2018 Syrah will repay some keeping. More dark black fruits emerge on the palate, leading to a firm structured wine with good tannins. Grapes were harvested from a special plot in the fashionable Gimblett Gravels on April 9, 2018. Gimblett Gravels is an iconic sub-region of Hawke’s Bay, pioneered in the early 2000s. The area is based on the deep gravelly and stony soils laid down by the old Ngaruroro River. Grand Amateur Gentleman was produced from a mass selection clone of Syrah from exceptional old vines. The grapes were de-stemmed but not crushed, then fermented at between 25°C and 30°C over seven days with hand plunging of the skins two times a day. The wine spent 12 months in bespoke oak barrels crafted by the Ermitage cooperage in France, which uses oak from trees at least 150 years old. Using a classic combination of 33% new oak, 33% 1-yearold and 33% 2-year-old barrels, the oak is discrete and seamless with the fruit. The wine was bottled in May 2019. 2021-2028, M5 D6 Cassis, herbs
18°C
Dark black fruits, tannic structure Pan-fried venison with blackcurrant jus
— NEW ZEALAND SAM HARROP WINE
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CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
photo — Dan Struckman, getting intimate with his 2019 red.
NEW ZEALAND Martinborough
Dan Struckman
1554
Martinborough is a small region in the south of the North Island, about 30 kilometres from the sea and a short drive eastward from New Zealand’s capital, Wellington. Based around the colonial village after which it is named, Martinborough, where Dan Struckman sources grapes for his wines and where he dreams one day to have his own vineyard, sits in the shadow of the Tararua Range that separates it from the capital. Its cool dry climate and free-draining soils are similar to those in Burgundy. South African-born Dan moved to New Zealand with his family as a teenager and studied winemaking at Lincoln University. For Dan, great wines are grown in the vineyard and “farming, precise viticulture and hard graft is what sets great wines apart from the good”.
DAN STRUCKMAN PETITE PINOT GRIS, MARTINBOROUGH, 2019 Martinborough is the best spot on the North Island for quality Pinot Noir, as suggested by the similar climate data it shares with Burgundy. Dan has produced a fine 2018 Pinot Noir with great cellaring potential. Aromas of rose petal, redcurrants and cola cubes are all present yet subtle. More structured than the 2017 offered last year, it is medium bodied with a firm linear acidity. This is a savoury wine with spicy flavours and supple tannins and a long woody and bitter cherry finish. A wine with depth that needs some time before drinking, and one which I look forward to seeing develop. It is produced from three clones of Pinot Noir – Abel, 777 and 115, planted on alluvial gravel terraces which were all dry farmed. Grapes were picked on March 24 and 25, 2018, destemmed, and underwent a cold soak for five days prior to fermentation. It was matured in oak barrels for 11 months with 33% new.
Pinot Gris $ 44.00
$ 264.00
Dan Struckman’s 2019 Petite Pinot Gris has restrained floral notes with honeysuckle, complemented by a more savoury cheese rind character, adding complexity. It is smooth with a touch of sweetness, apple, pears and spice flavours. It is medium bodied with great poise, complex yet understated. Pinot Gris grapes from a single dry farmed plot were harvested by hand on April 5th and rigorously sorted. A long slow pressing maximized time on skins prior to fermentation at low temperature. 2020-2022, M8 D9 Honeysuckle, floral notes, savoury cheese rind Complex, [01] Honey spiced roasted chicken
1555
DAN STRUCKMAN PETITE PINOT NOIR, MARTINBOROUGH, 2018
2021-2026, M6 D7 Rose petal, redcurrants, cola cubes
6°C
Pinot Noir $ 53.00
18°C
Spicy, woody, bitter cherry
$ 318.00
Five-spice roast duck
— NEW ZEALAND DAN STRUCKMAN
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CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
photo — Swan Hill Shiraz being tipped into the crusher before being transferred for fermentation during the 2019 vintage.
AUSTRALIA Yenda
Berton Vineyards
A dry start to the 2019 season continued right through to harvest in most Australian wine regions. Temperatures early in the season were mild until January saw some extreme heat waves in South East Australia. Irrigation was crucial in order to maintain vine health and crop protection. When I saw Bob Berton in Europe in March, he looked like a man that had lived through some fretful times, but he was happy — harvest was nearing completion and quality from the vintage has turned out to be excellent.
NEW
1556
BARREN JACK SEMILLON SAUVIGNON BLANC, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2019 Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc $ 20.00
$ 120.00
Ripe white fruits, cooked peaches and some spicy aromas combine on the nose. In the mouth this is a supple succulent wine with light to medium body. Grapes were harvested in the cool of the night, destemmed, crushed, chilled and pressed. After clarification of the juice, it was fermented at low temperature at Berton Vineyards winery at Yenda in the Riverina region. 2020-2021, M8 D9 Spices, white fruits, cooked peaches
6°C
Succulent, [00] Pan-fried whitefish with lemon butter and caper sauce
— AUSTRALIA BERTON VINEYARDS
15
NEW
1557
NEW
BARREN JACK CHARDONNAY, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2019 Chardonnay $ 20.00
1558
NEW
BARREN JACK SHIRAZ, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2019 Shiraz
$ 120.00
An unoaked Chardonnay with intense aromas of ripe nectarines and peaches. The palate is spicier, with some oaky notes showing through. This is a light to medium bodied wine with lingering flavours of fresh green apples and citrus fruits.
$ 20.00
BARREN JACK CABERNET MERLOT, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
$ 120.00
A medium to full bodied red with mellow ripe fruit aromas. It is supple and structured in the mouth with red and black fruit flavours mid-palate. Barren Jack Shiraz has good depth with long black fruits and a savoury finish. I would happily drink this with a big steak any day of the week. 2020-2023, M8 D9 Mellow ripe fruits
1559
$ 20.00
$ 120.00
The 2019 Barren Jack Cabernet Merlot was a bit more elusive than the Shiraz at time of tasting, with restrained dark fruit aromas – these are after all very young wines sampled from tank for tasting. The palate is firmer, with bitter black olive savoury notes complementing a blackberry character. It is medium to full bodied with lots of tannin and a supple long finish. 2020-2023, M7 D9
18°C
Red and black fruit, savoury
Dark fruit, black olive
Sirloin strip roast with Roquefort mushrooms
Savoury, blackberry White mushroom and ham pizza
2020-2021, M8 D9 Nectarines, peaches
6°C
Spicy oak, green apples, [00] Spatchcock chicken with apple-peach chutney
16
CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
18°C
NEW
1560
BERTON VINEYARDS WINEMAKER’S RESERVE FIANO, RIVERINA, 2019
BERTON VINEYARDS WINEMAKER’S RESERVE SHIRAZ, PADTHAWAY, 2018 Shiraz
Fiano $ 29.00
1561
$ 174.00
$ 29.00
$ 174.00
The Winemaker’s Reserve wines are chosen by Berton’s winemaker James Ceccato as those that stand out for him each year. Despite the hot growing conditions in January 2019, Fiano, an Italian grape variety from the south, maintained a lovely crisp acidity. Picked early, it is light and refreshing with a low alcohol level of 11.5%. Aromas of fresh apples, pears and passionfruit are all present on the nose. The crisp dry palate is enhanced with more fresh apple flavours and a citrus pith and sour lemon finish.
2018 was one of the smallest harvests in Padthaway on record, at 37% below the fiveyear average. No wonder then that this Shiraz has incredible richness and concentration. Dense black purple in colour, it oozes blackberries and smoky aromas. Smooth and rich on the palate, it is full bodied with juicy fruits, a blackberry acidity leading to lingering bitter cherries, and smoky notes on the finish. Grapes were harvested over a three-week period between February and March 2018 and fermented in small batches to dryness. Wines were then racked onto French oak for malolactic. This is a big bold and flavoursome wine at 15% alcohol.
2020-2021, M8 D9
2020-2025, M7 D9
Fresh apples, pears, passionfruit
6°C
Blackberry, hint of smoke
18°C
Apples, lemon, pithy finish, [00]
Dense, juicy fruits, bitter cherry, smoky
Vietnamese spring rolls
Grilled sausages with grilled courgettes and boiled potatoes
photo — Aerial shot of the winery looking out over the township of Yenda and the Cocoparra Range.
— AUSTRALIA BERTON VINEYARDS
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1562
BERTON VINEYARDS WINEMAKER’S RESERVE DURIF, RIVERINA, 2018 Durif $ 29.00
$ 174.00
Durif, the same grape variety as California’s Petite Sirah, is a late ripening variety that loves the hot dry climate in Riverina. Berton Vineyards Winemaker’s Reserve is dense purple in colour with deliciously ripe fruit aromas of blueberries, blackberries and patisserie. Grapes were picked on the mornings of March 13 and 14, 2018 after a long dry summer. After fermentation and malolactic in tank, the wine was transferred onto oak staves and into barrels for four months. More oaky flavours emerge on the palate with vanilla and dark fruits. This is a full-bodied wine, big and bold with sweet fruits, grippy tannins and a long finish. The Durif grape originated in France but there are only very limited number of hectares planted there now.
1563
BERTON VINEYARD LIMITED SHIRAZ, HEATHCOTE, 2017 Shiraz $ 35.00
2020-2022, M8 D9 Blueberries blackberries, patisserie
18
18°C
$ 210.00
2020-2025, M8 D9 Ripe dark fruits, mellow, vanilla
18°C
Oaky, vanilla, fruit
Blackcurrant, smooth
BBQ T-bone steak with chimichurri salsa
Chargrilled steak with grilled zucchini and French fries
CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
The Heathcote region in Central Victoria is prized for its deep red Cambrian soils resulting from the erosion of the Mount Camel range. These soils have good water holding capacity. Shiraz is the dominant grape and was the standout variety in 2017 in the region. Heathcote’s location off the northern fringe of the Great Dividing Range means it is a warm Mediterranean climate, but slightly cooler than neighbouring regions. In this case, grapes came from Shiraz vines planted to the north of the region at Colbinabbin, 30 kilometres from Heathcote town. Smoky aromas mingle with ripe dark fruits, cooked fruits, vanilla and patisserie smells, giving an overall mellow impression. On the palate it is smooth and lush with a refreshing acidity and blackcurrant finish. After alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, the wine was matured with a combination of French and American oak.
photo — The team at Berton Vineyards.
1564
BERTON VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, HIGH EDEN, 2017
Australia’s top awarded Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz come out of the High Eden.
Cabernet Sauvignon $ 42.00
2020-2025, M6 D8 Vanilla, oaky, toast, dark fruits
18°C
Blackcurrants, blueberries, juicy Herb-marinated veal chops with carrot Papillotes
$ 252.00
I will always remember arriving at Bob’s vineyard in the High Eden some years ago on a bright early spring afternoon, during what movie people term the “golden hour”. It is a remote and rugged place, and on that evening, as the sun went down, the light was amazing. This is the spot where Bob and his wife Cherie chose to plant their very first vineyard. For them this would be a complete change in lifestyle and something that they could do together. The high altitude, windy conditions and ancient podzolic soils all contribute to making wines with a real sense of place. The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon has blackcurrants, blueberries and other dark fruit aromas complemented by vanilla and toasty notes. It has a soft juicy palate with mellow oak and fruit flavours developing a fine silky texture with a marked acidity on the finish. A very long and moreish wine. It was matured in French and American oak barrels with 35% new oak for up to 20 months.
1565
BERTON VINEYARDS THE BONSAI, HIGH EDEN, 2017 Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon $ 306.00
$ 51.00
The Bonsai is the very first vineyard planted by Bob and Cherie by their own hands. It is named so as when first planted they had no water for irrigation. Having toiled so hard, the couple then watched the young vines struggling to survive with the high winds and no water. After some years, the vines were still spindly and dwarfed, leading to one visiting wine professional naming it The Bonsai vineyard. Today the vines look fit and healthy. A dam has been built and irrigation installed. The Bonsai 2017 is dense in colour with ripe dark fruits, sweet cherries and vanilla toast aromas. Significant rainfall events that occurred in other parts of South Australia in 2017 largely missed the High Eden region. This wine is concentrated on the palate with powerful fruit and savoury oak notes. Another very moreish wine with great depth and a long smoky, bitter fruit and dark chocolate finish. It has a fine texture with lots of tannin. After maturation in new and old French and American oak barrels for over 12 months, the best barrels were selected to produce the final wine. 2020-2026, M6 D8 Ripe dark fruits, cherries, vanilla, toast
18°C
Smoky savoury oak, dark chocolate Fig, date and walnut stuffed roast wild boar with fig and port sauce
photo — Bob’s vineyard in September 2018. Trenches are being dug to lay irrigation pipes for the new Shiraz vineyard.
— AUSTRALIA BERTON VINEYARDS
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CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
photo — Sunnycliff Estate wines are ideal for pairing with a wide range of cuisines.
AUSTRALIA Victoria South Melbourne
Wingara Wine Group
In January 2019, as he crushed the first Chardonnay for Sunnycliff Estate Sparkling wines, winemaker Frank Newman celebrated his 50th vintage as winemaker. In 1969, he worked alongside Max Schubert at Penfolds Magill winery and was involved in the creation of the iconic Penfolds Grange. He has been Chief winemaker at Sunnycliff for the last five years and brings his wealth of experience to bear, producing quality wines at extremely attractive prices. Frank’s aim is always perfection, and his football team’s motto is something that has been his driving influence over his years as a winemaker. “Nil satis nisi optimum”– Nothing but the best is good enough.
PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR
1566
SUNNYCLIFF ESTATE SPARKLING BRUT CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR, MURRAY-DARLING, NV Chardonnay, Pinot Noir $ 21.00
$ 126.00
2020-2021, M8 D9 White fruits, spice Mellow fruits, biscuit notes, [02] Salmon carpaccio
6°C
Unbeatable value in my view, this Aussie sparkling is mellow and smooth with aromas of white fruits, bread and spice. Produced from a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, Frank uses an unusual and fairly long process to produce it. Grapes are harvested in mid-January, picked, pressed and fermented at low temperature to produce the base wines which are left on lees for some time. Specific parcels are then selected and enter into a modified solera system – the system used in Jerez in Southern Spain to produce sherry. Over a sixyear period, younger and older component wines are blended in five stages to give more complexity and mature flavours. The final blend then undergoes a second alcoholic fermentation in bottle to give it its sparkle.
— AUSTRALIA WINGARA WINE GROUP
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1568
SUNNYCLIFF ESTATE CHARDONNAY, MURRAY-DARLING, 2019 Chardonnay $ 17.00
SUNNYCLIFF ESTATE SHIRAZ, MURRAY-DARLING, 2019 Shiraz
$ 204.00
Just a touch of oak was used in one component of the Chardonnay and another component underwent malolactic fermentation, but most of the Chardonnay grapes were fermented at low temperature in stainless steel tanks. The result is a 2019 Sunnycliff Chardonnay which is fresh with nectarine, peaches and other stone fruit characters with a barely perceptible hint of spice in the background. It is soft and very approachable with a creamy texture mid-palate and a fresh crisp finish. 2020-2021, M8 D9 Nectarine, spices
1569
6°C
$ 17.00
$ 204.00
Spicy red fruits with a smoky bacon character lead to a supple red wine which is quite light bodied. Red fruit flavours on the palate initially are contrasted with a savoury oaky finish. Shiraz was picked in March and fermented at moderate temperatures to achieve soft tannins. The wine was matured on a combination of French and American oak chips, giving it its smoky appeal. 2020-2022, M8 D9 Smoky bacon, red fruits
18°C
Fruity with savoury oak finish Soft, smooth, [00] Rare roast beef and beetroot gratin Seared scallops with tropical fruit salsa
1567
SUNNYCLIFF ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC, MURRAY-DARLING, 2019 Sauvignon Blanc $ 17.00
$ 204.00
Light and refreshing in style, it has flavours of fresh apples and lime with a crisp flinty finish. Sauvignon Blanc was picked in February and underwent a cool fermentation to preserve delicate aromas. 2020-2021, M8 D9 Fresh apples, lime
6°C
Crisp, citrus, [00] Pan-seared scallops with green papaya slaw
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CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
photo — Frank Newman, Sunnycliff Estate winemaker and the winery dog, Maya.
1571
SUNNYCLIFF ESTATE SHIRAZ CABERNET, MURRAY-DARLING, 2019 Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon $ 204.00
$ 17.00
Most of the Sunnycliff range is vegan and vegetarian friendly!
1570
SUNNYCLIFF ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MURRAY-DARLING, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon $ 17.00
$ 204.00
More weighty than the Shiraz, Sunnycliff Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 is medium bodied with some structure and depth. It has flavours of violets and black cherries with a soft smooth palate. Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were fermented in sweeping arm Potter fermenters – Australian tanks designed and named after Ron Potter. Also matured with French and American oak chips, the oak is less overt than the Shiraz.
Juicy blackberry fruits on the nose and in the mouth, this is a medium bodied wine with lots of vibrancy, tangy character and a grainy texture. Sunnycliff Estate vineyards lie around the Murray River – the longest river in Australia stretching 2,400 kilometres. Together with the Darling River they form the Murray-Darling basin, which provides much needed water for irrigation in the hot dry climate. Without it, viticulture would simply not be possible. 2019 was especially dry and hot with, only 23 millimetres of spring rainfall and 50 millimetres throughout summer. Fruit quality turned out excellent.
2020-2022, M8 D9
2020-2022, M8 D9
Violets, black cherries
photo — The mighty Murray River that provides life to the region.
18°C
Blackberries
18°C
Structured
Juicy black fruits, tangy
Boar rib chops with porcini sauce
Teriyaki beef stir-fry
— AUSTRALIA WINGARA WINE GROUP
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CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
AUSTRALIA
McLaren Vale
Hastwell & Lightfoot Vineyards Hastwell & Lightfoot, in South Australia’s McLaren Vale, is a collaboration of two families, Mark & Wendy Hastwell and Martin & Gill Lightfoot, who purchased their vineyards in the 1980s. Attracted to the natural beauty of the region and a laid back lifestyle, the families’ dream was to plant vines, kick back and become “Gentlemen Farmers”. As Hastwell & Lightfoot matures as a winery, having energy to maintain growth and vigour for the next generation is just as important as the quality of the wine that is produced. Mark and Wendy Hastwell’s son James is the Winemaker and Martin Lightfoot’s nephew Richard McGeachy is Vineyard Manager and provides the bedrock for another 30 years of Hastwell & Lightfoot estate wines. Heading into 2020, Hastwell & Lightfoot continue to evolve and grow with Mark and Wendy’s nephew Kishan Sidhu joining the winery and taking on the roles and responsibilities as General Manager and Director and will be critical in steering the H&L families’ brand forward the next generation. “It’s a privilege to join a family business and be part of the next generation. I am excited to be part of the art of winemaking while evolving and growing Hastwell & Lightfoot brand through innovation. Seeing continuous value across the next generation and knowing that we will continue to deliver a quality product for the next 30 years is both an art and a science.” —Kishan Sidhu
photo — The Hastwell and Lightfoot cellar door looking through the vines towards McLaren Flat.
— AUSTRALIA HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT VINEYARDS
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1573
FAT’N SKINNY PICKER’S CHOICE, MCLAREN VALE, 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo $ 29.00
1574
HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT BARBERA, MCLAREN VALE, 2017 Barbera
$ 174.00
$ 36.00
$ 216.00
Appealing spicy dark fruits and gingerbread aromas lead to a medium to fullbodied wine with bitter cherry and dark chocolate flavours. It is an unusual combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, bringing structure with Tempranillo which brings soft tannins. Perfectly ready for drinking, it was matured with 60% French oak and 40% American.
In addition to growing mainstream grape varieties, Martin and Mark have always got a kick out of trying new things. Originally from Piedmont in northern Italy, the Barbera grape variety has adapted well to McLaren Vale. The 2017 shows some colour development with a rich savoury nose of earthy cured meats over a background of blackberries and coffee. It is supple and medium-bodied with bitter liquorice and chocolate on the finish.
2020-2023, M8 D9
2020-2023, M8 D9
Spicy dark fruits, gingerbread
26
18°C
Savoury, earthy, blackberries, coffee
16° C
Bitter cherries, dark chocolate
Bitter chocolate, liquorice
Barbecued lamb chops with mint sauce
Veal shank osso buco over toasted gnocchi
CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
top photo — The winery in the twilight light of the
Australian summer during vintage.
1575
HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT CABERNET FRANC, MCLAREN VALE, 2016 Cabernet Franc $ 38.00
$ 228.00
When I was in Kitchener earlier in the year, several members requested that I include a few more mature wines, developed and ready for full enjoyment. So here you go - Hastwell & Lightfoot’s 2016 Cabernet Franc perfectly fits the bill. With mellow forest fruits, vanilla and tertiary bouquet, it has a soft velvet texture with red and black fruits emerging. Fine and elegant, it will remain at its peak for a couple of years at least.
1576
HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT SANDS OF TIME SHIRAZ, MCLAREN VALE, 2018
2020-2021, M8 D9 Forest fruits, vanilla
18°C
Red and black fruits Butternut squash and chickpea chili
New year, new beginnings: Kishan Sidhu has taken over operations at Hastwell & Lightfoot.
Shiraz $ 41.00
$ 246.00
Sands of Time Shiraz 2018 is dense in colour. It has ripe mellow fruit aromas with vanilla, red cherries, dark chocolate and spices with a touch of green herbs lurking in the background. On the palate it is rich and smooth with a fine texture and juicy acidity. This is a medium to full bodied wine, rich with a long spicy dark chocolate finish. It will benefit from a bit more cellaring before it reaches its peak. Produced from grapes grown on the home block, it is named after the sand dunes built up over 10,000 years, as the prevailing westerlies brought sand in from the coast and dumped it on the ridges in McLaren Vale. 2018 saw some severe heat spikes, but James has nevertheless produced a perfectly balanced and fresh wine with 14% alcohol. 2020-2025, M7 D9 Earthy
18°C
Dark fruits, chocolate, spices Gnocchetti sardi pasta with sausage and tomato sauce
bottom photo — Kishan Sidhu, General Manager and Director of the wine business, is Mark and Wendy Hastwell’s nephew.
— AUSTRALIA HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT VINEYARDS
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CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
AUSTRALIA
Kuitpo
Wines by Geoff Hardy Despite having one of the most famous family names in the Australian wine trade and all the heritage that goes with that, Geoff Hardy is a simple man at heart. He is unassuming and gentle in personality on meeting him you would never know that he was responsible as a viticultural consultant for a large number of vineyard plantings in South Australia. Geoff is most expansive and visibly engaged when it comes to talking about vines. He planted his first vineyard at Kuitpo in the Southern Adelaide Hills in 1987 to produce cool climate wines and founded GMH wines in 2004. His daughter Bec inherited his genes and is also a trained viticulturist and works alongside Geoff and her husband in the business. Wines are made by Shane Harris.
PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR
photo — Pinot Noir in winter at the K1 wines vineyard.
— AUSTRALIA WINES BY GEOFF HARDY
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1577
GMH MERITAGE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2018
1578
Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec $ 27.00
$ 162.00
GMH Meritage has been a firm favourite with Opimian members for many years, and the 2018 will certainly not disappoint. Indeed, winemaker Shane Harris believes it is the best one he has ever made. Intense black purple in colour, it has aromas of cherry menthol and cola cubes. It is medium bodied with quite a light mid palate leading to a firm finish with tannic structure and some juicy fruit flavours. The 2018 is a blend of 33% Petit Verdot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 17% Malbec. Grapes were grown in different regions in South Australia, namely Adelaide Hills, Limestone Coast and Langhorne Creek. 2020-2024, M7 D8 Cherry menthol, cola cubes
18°C
GMH CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon $ 27.00
$ 162.00
GMH Cabernet Sauvignon is produced from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grown in South Australia’s Adelaide Hills, Fleurieu and the Riverland regions. The 2018 has lush cooked fruits and cherry aromas complemented by spice and vanilla. Grainy in texture, it has more cherry flavours on the palate with a succulent acidity and spicy finish - perfect to pair with spicy Moroccan lamb. 2020-2024, M7 D8 Cooked fruits cherries, vanilla
18°C
Cherries, juicy acidity Cola Greek braised eggplant and chickpeas
30
CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
Slow-roasted Moroccan-spiced lamb shoulder served with a sundried tomato and chickpea salad
photo — Geoff Hardy and winemaker Shane Harris take a walk through the vineyards.
1581
K1 SAUVIGNON BLANC, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2019 Sauvignon Blanc $ 36.00
$ 216.00
One of my favourite picks in the tasting, Shane’s K1 2019 Sauvignon Blanc is a real treat. Very pale lime in colour, it has intense multidimensional aromas with gooseberry, elderflower, lemon and other citrus fruits all coming to the fore. Deliciously limey on the palate with floral notes, it is a citrus bomb with lingering flavours of lemon and grapefruit. The Sauvignon Blanc vines are planted in a sandy loam area of the K1 vineyard.
NEW NEW
1579
GMH FAMILY SELECTION RED BLEND, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2018 Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon $ 29.00
$ 174.00
The Family Selection blend is put together at the family dinner table – each parcel is tasted separately, and a final wine decided upon amongst family members. In this instance, the 2018 is made up of 59% Shiraz, 39% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Spicy oak aromas lead to a more vibrant fruit on the palate with redcurrants, red cherries and a cranberry crunch.
1580
GMH WINEMAKER’S RESERVE SHIRAZ, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2018 Shiraz $ 29.00
Shiraz with a focus on fresh red fruits and no obvious oak character. The wine is medium bodied and has nice depth with lifted acidity on the finish. It was purchased from a blend of regional South Australian vineyards, fermented in tank. A third of the blend was matured in older hogsheads.
2020-2022, M8 D9 Oaky, spices
18°C
$ 174.00
2020-2022, M8 D9 Red fruits
18°C
2020-2022, M8 D9 Gooseberry, elderflower, lemon
6°C
Red cherries, redcurrants, cranberry
Fresh juicy fruits
Floral, citrus bomb – lemon, grapefruit, lime, [00]
Lasagne
Wild venison carpaccio with roasted shallots, orange and a horseradish cream
Shrimp and vegetables in Panang curry (Panang goong)
photo — The Lakehouse function room at K1 overlooks the lake and vineyard.
— AUSTRALIA WINES BY GEOFF HARDY
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1582
Predominantly grown in Hungary and the Czech Republic, Grüner Veltliner has found a new home in the cool southern Adelaide Hills. Geoff planted 1.7 hectacres at Kuitpo in 2010. The 2019 K1 is lightly fragranced with fresh apples and fennel aromas. The palate is rich and structured with a pithy mineral finish, adding length. Geoff has always experimented growing more niche varietals, and this is a fine alternative. After pressing, 20% of the juice was racked and fermented in second and third-use barrels previously used for Chardonnay and the balance fermented in tanks. After experimenting last year, this year he chose to ferment using two Chardonnay yeasts.
K1 GRUNER VELTLINER, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2019 Grüner Veltliner $ 216.00
$ 36.00
2020-2022, M8 D9 Fennel, fresh apple
6°C
Structured, pithy finish, [00] Pea and mint arancini, topped with shaved Parmesan
1584
Shiraz, Viognier
NEW
1583
K1 MIDDLE HILL SHIRAZ, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2017
K1 ROSÉ, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2019
$ 39.00
$ 234.00
Appealingly pink in colour, with restrained redcurrant and sherbet aromas, this is quite a serious rosé wine. Produced from 80% Durif and 20% Pinot Noir grapes, flavours of watermelon and green apple show through on the palate. A refreshing wine, relatively low in alcohol at 11.5%.
A savoury spicy wine with cherry menthol and floral aromas. It is light to medium bodied with some firm tannins on the finish. Sour cherries and plums are complemented by oaky spices. Shiraz vines are planted on a gentle sloping sandstone ridge. A cooler than usual spring and summer led to a late harvest in 2017, with grapes harvested under perfect dry conditions. As is the practice in some Rhône estates, a little bit of white Viognier grapes (1%) was co-fermented with Shiraz, giving softness and a velvety texture on the mid palate. After fermentation the wine was racked to barrel with 25% new French oak and matured for 18 months.
2020-2021, M8 D9
2020-2025, M6 D7
Durif, Pinot Noir $ 36.00
Redcurrant, sherbet
32
$ 216.00
6°C
Spice, cherry menthol, floral
18°C
Green apples, [00]
Cherries, sour cherry finish
Thai red seafood curry
Caramelized pork belly with sticky rice and Asian greens
CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
top photo — Barrels at Geoff Hardy’s K1 vineyards.
This sparkling wine will add elegance and smiles to any occasion.
NEW
1585
K1 TEMPRANILLO, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2019 Tempranillo $ 39.00
NEW
1586
K1 SPARKLING, ADELAIDE HILLS, NV
Vibrant in colour with an intensely fruity nose, K1 Tempranillo has aromas of plums, blueberries and violets. It is supple with a good firm structure which will mellow with time. A concentrated wine with lots of flavours which should develop nicely. The 2019 growing season started with mild weather and below average rainfall. Late spring rain gave some relief, but wet windy weather during fruit set led to a small crop. A number of hot days in January kept Geoff and the team very busy in the vineyard — time well spent, given the quality of the result. One hectare of Tempranillo was planted at K1 in 2010. Grapes were protected from oxidation and fermented in tanks with minimal pump over and short contact time of seven days. 5% was matured in new French oak with the balance in tank.
Creamy vanilla and biscuit aromas give depth to the nose. Foaming in the glass, it reveals ripe fruits on the palate which is rich with good weight and depth. Flavours of Pinot Noir emerge with time in the glass – some cassis and savoury notes – before a refreshing crisp finish. This is a blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, all hand-picked. After the fermentation, the base wine was kept on lees for nine months, adding an interesting dimension prior to the secondary fermentation.
2020-2026, M6 D7
2020-2022, M8 D9
Intense fruit, plums, violets
bottom photo — K1 vines are harvested by hand at Wines by Geoff Hardy.
$ 234.00
18°C
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay $ 44.00
Creamy vanilla
$ 264.00
6°C
Supple fruit with bitter cherry finish
Ripe fruits, cassis, [02]
Chargrilled butterflied leg of lamb over a bed of couscous salad
Chorizo crusted scallops with cilantro guacamole and tortilla strips
— AUSTRALIA WINES BY GEOFF HARDY
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CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
photo — The dog-friendly Winery in the Hunter Valley produces exceptional wines.
AUSTRALIA New South Wales Hunter Valley
Briar Ridge Vineyard
Hunter Valley, located 160 kilometres directly north of Sydney in eastern Australia, is the country’s oldest wine region, with vines first planted there in the 1820s. Hunter Valley is not the easiest place to grow grapes; the warm humid conditions can encourage rot, as the first settlers soon found out. However, if vineyards are farmed appropriately, Hunter Valley can produce distinctive styles of Semillon and Shiraz not found anywhere else in the world. Briar Ridge Estate, nestled in the hills of Mount View, is owned by the Davis family. Its amphitheatre topography creates a different microclimate to the rest of the valley. The estate was purchased by John Davis and today is run by Jaclyn, his daughter. Vines are tended to by Belinda Kelly and wines made by Alex Beckett.
PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR
1588
BRIAR RIDGE EARLY HARVEST SEMILLON, HUNTER VALLEY, 2019 Semillon $ 36.00
$ 216.00
Almost colourless in the glass, the 2019 Early Harvest Semillon nevertheless has bags of personality. It is aromatic with spicy notes, lanolin and honeysuckle and has good intensity. Light initially on the palate, it develops a firm pithy finish, giving length and a racy limey acidity. 2019 was an excellent year for the Hunter Valley – dry without any extreme heat. Perfect for drinking young, Hunter Valley Semillons also have an ability to cellar, developing hazelnut and toasty notes and becoming richer on the palate. 2020-2024, M7 D9 Honeysuckle, lanolin, spice
6°C
Lime, citrus pith, [00] Yellowfin tuna sashimi with soy sauce, sesame seeds and chives
— AUSTRALIA BRIAR RIDGE VINEYARD
35
1589
BRIAR RIDGE ROSÉ, ORANGE, 2019 Merlot $ 36.00
$ 216.00
Orange, at an elevation above 600 metres, is Australia’s highest altitude wine region. It is a cool region consisting of hills and winding roads, with the extinct volcano Mount Canobolas as a backdrop. Briar Ridge’s Orange vineyard sits at 750 metres on volcanic basalt soils. 2019 saw an extreme cold winter and lower than average rainfall, but enough moisture to allow good vine growth, and the region did not suffer from the extreme heat experienced elsewhere. After picking Merlot, the grapes were left in contact with their skins for several hours, giving the juice a pretty pink colour. This is a rosé with nice depth of flavour – red apples, cranberries and raspberry crush with some yeasty notes and a dry crisp finish.
1590
BRIAR RIDGE OLD VINES SHIRAZ, HUNTER VALLEY, 2017
Cabernet Sauvignon
Shiraz $ 38.00
$ 228.00
36
6°C
$ 38.00
$ 228.00
Displaying spices, dark chocolate and spicy aromas, this wine has a great future. On the palate it is medium bodied with a grainy chewy texture and grippy tannins. It is medium bodied, structured with a savoury and long bitter chocolate finish. Grapes from the 2017 vintage, which was hot and dry, were picked from selected plots. Drip irrigation and leaf cover were used to allow grapes to ripen fully while protecting against too much sun exposure. After picking, a cold soak was carried out for a few days, then fermentation initiated. Each plot was fermented and matured separately in oak for 12 months then blended and bottled in July 2019.
A densely coloured and intense wine. 2017 was one of the latest vintages on record due to a very cold winter which delayed budburst so that Cabernet Sauvignon in Orange was picked in late April. Aromas of blackcurrants and cherry menthol precede smooth ripe fruit flavours on the palate. It is medium bodied and supple with a long cherry finish. Cold Soaked Cabernet refers to the technique by which grapes are left to macerate at low temperature to extract colour and flavours before the alcoholic fermentation starts. The wine was matured in tank for 14 months and bottled in October 2019, with no use of oak.
2020-2025, M6 D7
2020-2023, M7 D9
2020-2021, M8 D9 Yeasty, red fruits
1591
BRIAR RIDGE COLD SOAKED CABERNET SAUVIGNON, ORANGE, 2017
Spices, dark chocolate, earthy notes
18°C
Blackcurrant, cherry menthol
18°C
Red apples, cranberry, raspberry crush, [00]
Bitter chocolate, savoury finish
Cherries, ripe fruits
Grilled chicken skewers over pearl couscous salad
Spicy pepperoni pizza
Home-made beef burgers with cheese, bacon, smoked jalapenos and grilled onion
CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
NEW
1592
BRIAR RIDGE BIG BULLY CABERNET SAUVIGNON, WRATTONBULLY, 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon $ 45.00
2020-2026, M6 D8 Blackcurrant, fresh dark fruits, vanilla
18°C
Black fruits, green bean Pork Pad See Ew
photo — The team at Briar Ridge has the love of wine in common. “We always put our hearts and souls into everything we do.”
$ 270.00
A more complex and structured Cabernet Sauvignon which stood out in my tasting. In addition to their vineyards in New South Wales, the Davis family own vineyards in Wrattonbully and Coonawarra in South Australia. Wrattonbully and Coonawarra share the rich Terra Rossa soils which are so adept at producing world-class Cabernet Sauvignon. Wrattonbully has a slightly warmer climate than Coonawarra, being just that bit further from the coast and the maritime influence. 2017 Big Bully Cabernet has intense aromas with blackcurrant, fresh dark fruits and vanilla. On the palate, it is concentrated with a firm tight structure. Delicious pure black fruits are complemented by just a touch of green bean, adding complexity. Grown on well-drained fertile red clays over limestone, Cabernet Sauvignon was picked by April 19th. Left to cold soak for 72 hours, it was then fermented in tank and malolactic fermentation completed. The wine was racked into new and one-year-old barrels for 14 months with 70% French and 30% American oak.
1593
QUADRANT CABERNET, WRATTONBULLY, 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon $ 192.00
$ 32.00
A fun wine created by Tim Davis as a style he enjoys sharing with friends around the BBQ. Deep plum in colour, it has ripe mulberry fruits with mellow vanilla and cooked berries. It is soft and juicy on the palate with succulent fruits leading to bitter cherries, dark chocolate and liquorice flavours on the finish. Perfectly ready for drinking. 2020-2023, M8 D9 Mulberries, mellow cooked forest berries, vanilla
18°C
Bitter cherries, blackcurrants, dark chocolate Portobello mushrooms in a Cabernet Sauvignon reduction with sautéed greens
— AUSTRALIA BRIAR RIDGE VINEYARD
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CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
AUSTRALIA
Margaret River
Chapman Grove Wines Stunning Margaret River is located in Western Australia, some 170 miles south of Perth. Vineyards are located close to a coastline of long white sandy beaches famous for their surf and are a huge tourist attraction. The proximity of the Indian Ocean to the west and Southern Ocean to the south have a big influence on climate, regulating temperature and providing cool sea breezes. Annual rainfall is the highest of any of the wine regions in Australia, but very little falls during the growing season. It is an ideal place to grow premium wine grapes. Ron Fraser established Chapman Grove wines after many years as a wine retailer and lover of fine wine. In 1997 he found his perfect spot in Margaret River and established the first Chapman Grove vineyard. His grapes were initially sold to other local wineries but once the vines came of age, he launched his Chapman Grove wines in 2006. Wines have been made by Bruce Dukes since the beginning.
photo — Autumn sunrise on the Margaret River.
— AUSTRALIA CHAPMAN GROVE WINES
39
1596
THE LONE QUINCE 1925 CABERNET MERLOT, MARGARET RIVER, 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot $ 30.00
1595
THE LONE QUINCE 1925 SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLON, MARGARET RIVER, 2018
$ 180.00
Intense aromas with notes of green beans and fresh grass over moody dark plummy fruits. The Lone Quince 2017 shows nice savoury flavours with supple mid-palate and fine tannins. It is medium bodied with a long finish. Produced from a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, it was matured in oak for nine months. The Lone Quince wines are dedicated to the memory of the WWI soldiers who cleared and farmed the land on which the vines are now planted. In 1925, they planted a Quince tree which remains – Ron planted his vineyards around it as a tribute to them.
Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon $ 30.00
2020-2023, M7 D8
$ 180.00 Grassy, green bean
The climate in Margaret River is similar to that of a dry vintage in Bordeaux, so no wonder the region makes some of the best Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blends in Australia. 2018 was a great year in terms of conditions during the growing season through to picking. Ron’s 2018 Sauvignon Semillon blend is perfect – pale in colour with intense aromas of greengages, lime leaves and a hint of green pepper. It is quite tight on the palate with a marked acidity and flavour of sour lemons, lime and other green fruits. It is medium bodied with a gunflint finish. This is a distinctive wine, full of character. It is a blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc with 10% Semillon. No use of oak, but layers of complex fruit flavours.
Savoury, fine texture
18°C
The Lone Quince is a monument to all who have toiled on this land. Enjoy this wine in their memory.
Spanish tapas
2020-2022, M8 D9 Greengages, lime leaves, green pepper
6°C
Lemon, limes, flint, [00] Curried prawns
40
CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
photo — Hand-picking of Chardonnay grapes.
NEW
1597
DREAMING DOG CABERNET SHIRAZ MERLOT, MARGARET RIVER, 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot $ 30.00
$ 180.00
1598
ATTICUS THE FINCH COLLECTION, RED BLEND, MARGARET RIVER, 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot $ 47.00
$ 282.00
A densely coloured wine with cool herbal notes and a supple refreshing palate. It is a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Shiraz and 5% Merlot. Over the years, Ron has had a series of Maremma dogs to accompany him around the vineyards. These are a breed of aristocratic looking, large white fluffy sheepdogs from Italy. Ron created the Dreaming Dog label in memory of Millie, Maggie, Big Sam & Bollie.
A complex wine with notes of spices, vanilla, wet earth, subtle dark fruits and a leafy green edge. More dark fruits emerge in the glass with aeration. It is medium bodied with a fine texture leading to some grippiness on the finish and juicy black fruit flavours. Atticus The Finch 2016 is an understated wine which is refined and elegant. Nice to drink now, it should unfurl with a little more cellaring. It is a blend of the five Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The wine was aged for 12 months in older French oak barrels.
2020-2023, M7 D8
2020-2026, M6 D8
Herbs, leaves
18°C
Complex, spices, vanilla, earth, fruit
18°C
Fresh dark fruit
Dark fruits, grippy with juicy mid palate
Spelt spaghetti with sausage sauce
Gnocchi with Swiss chard, Gruyère and walnuts
photo — Maremma puppies accompany Ron when he walks around his vineyards.
— AUSTRALIA CHAPMAN GROVE WINES
41
VERTICAL CASE
Two bottles each 2009, 2010 & 2011
1599
ATTICUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON VERTICAL CASE, MARGARET RIVER $ 62.00
$ 372.00
The Atticus wines are Ron’s premium range — striving to achieve the best his Margaret River terroir can offer — they are only made in the best vintages. This vertical case of Cabernet Sauvignon includes three top vintages: 2009, 2010 & 2011. Each wine was produced from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and was matured for 18 months in French oak with 50% new barrels and 50% one-year-old.
42
CELLAR 271 — SASKATCHEWAN
photo — Winemaker Richard Rowe, barrel sampling.
ATTICUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MARGARET RIVER, 2009
ATTICUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MARGARET RIVER, 2010
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon
Deep brick ruby, the 2009 has a complex bouquet with intense spice, cigar box, cedar, autumnal forest leaves and developing tertiary aromas. It is mellow with a supple palate, in keeping with a top-class Bordeaux style. Black fruits in the mid-palate support the structure and lead to mellow flavours with a hint of liquorice. A real treat of a wine which should remain at its peak for several years to come.
Deep in colour, with less complexity than the 2009 but nice dark fruits, smoke and liquorice aromas. Very fresh and youthful on the palate, it has a lively acidity with lingering black cherry and liquorice flavours.
2020-2022, M6 D8 Intense spices, cigar box, cedar, autumn leaves
18°C
2020-2025, M6 D7 Dark fruit, smoke, liquorice
18°C
Black cherries Bacon-wrapped filet mignon with balsamic onions
Black fruits, liquorice Slow-roasted leg of lamb with garlic and rosemary
ATTICUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MARGARET RIVER, 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
2020-2028, M7 D9 Floral spice
The 2011 is a rich and concentrated wine. Deep in colour with floral spicy aromas, it has yet to develop tertiary characters. The mid palate is rich with dark fruits, black cherries and smoke, making it very approachable while young, but the tannin structure and depth suggest a long life ahead.
18°C
Dark fruits, black cherries, smoke Grilled beef tagliata with aromatic herbs
A vertical tasting case will help you gauge the benefits of time.
— AUSTRALIA CHAPMAN GROVE WINES
43
OPIMIAN SUBSCRIPTION CASES
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3
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54
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3
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BOTTLES OF 9 RARE WINES PER YEAR