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C249-MB: Italy, Germany and Austria

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cellar

ITALY, GERMANY AND AUSTRIA

MB

249 Order between April 28 and June 2, 2017


Ordering Made Easy 1. Select Your Wines Let yourself be inspired by our detailed descriptions or use your personal wine profile to find out which wines best suit your palate. Our custom chart also features a variety of symbols (explained below) that can guide your selection. Still unsure which wines to order? Opimian’s Wine Concierge is always available to help you make an informed choice. Contact our Wine Concierge at 1-800-361-9421 or by email at concierge@opim.ca.

Legend Grape variety Red White Rosé Sparkling Bottle size

2. Place Your Order There are five ways to order • Online: Go to opim.ca, sign in and select Order Now. • Email opim@opim.ca with your selection. • Call 1-800-361-9421 • Fax your order to 514-481-9699 • Mail your order*

Number of bottles in case

3. Let Us Handle the Rest The wines featured on this Cellar Offering are still at the producers’ wineries when you order them so it is normal that the process takes a bit of time and effort on our side.

Aroma

Expected arrival for shipments from this Cellar Offering is mid-August 2017. Release dates are dependent upon actual arrival dates, distance from port of entry to liquor board and processing time required by each liquor board.

Taste

Once the wine arrives at your local liquor store or distribution centre, you will receive a Pick Up Notice with the specified date (the Release Date) and your pick up location. You can follow the status of your shipment at all times at opim.ca.

Serving temperature

Ideal with Evolution Drink this year Will develop, drink within 2 years Meant for cellaring Concentration Light Medium Great

Conditions of Purchase • Accepted payment methods: Credit Card (Visa, MasterCard, American Express) or cheque payable to Opimian. • Prices include all applicable federal and provincial mark ups and taxes, including GST/HST # 105 233 217 and QST #1000640430. • A valid 2017 membership card is required to order and pick up. • Bottle prices are for reference only. All orders are by the case, with no minimum required. • Last day to order from this Cellar Offering: June 2, 2017. Important: no orders will be processed after this deadline. * Deadline for mailing orders: May 23, 2017. Please allow 10 days for delivery by Canada Post.

Oak Light Medium Heavy Limited quantities Limited Very limited Extremely limited Less than 100 cases available Members’ Choice Most ordered by Opimian members Opimian Suggests Starting a cellar

Medal Winner

Discovery Opimian Select 2016 M—Degree of Maturity (1-10) M1 = lay down M10 = fully mature

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CELLAR 249 — MANITOBA

D—Degree of Drinkability (1-10) D1 = needs time D10 = ready to drink

Sweetness scale

Grams/litre

Examples

[00]

0-3

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, many reds

[01]

4-6

Some New World varietals, some reds

[02]

7 - 12

Champagne, Sparkling, Rosés, few reds

[03]

13 - 20

Mosel, some Alsace, Anjou

[04]

21 - 34

Semi-sweet Bordeaux, some sherry

[05]

35 - 50

Kabinett German, Late Harvest, Alsace

[06]

51 - 74

Spätlese German, Sweet Loire, Port, Dessert Muscat

[07]

75 - 100

Auslese, Beerenauslese

[08]

101 - 139

Icewines, Sauternes, Barsac, dessert wines, Port

[09]

140 - 179

Icewines, Sauternes, Barsac, dessert wines, Port

[10]

180 >

Speciality sweet wines, Trockenbeerenauslese

cover photo — The Agriverde tasting room evokes the ancient

Roman architecture of King Frederick II of Svevia.


Germany

Austria

Cellar 249 |

Italy, Germany and Austria

In Cellar Offering 249 we re-visit Italy to focus on regional wines. The classic regions of Piemonte and Tuscany, as well as Abruzzo, Campania, Emilia-Romagna, Puglia, Umbria and the islands of Sardegna and Sicily, are all featured. Each region has its own traditions and cultivates its indigenous grape varieties in different ways. We also introduce two young producers from Germany’s Pfalz region. Gerd Stepp and Alex Pflüger are making first-class wines with a focus on white, as one would expect from this northern region. In Austria, the same grapes produce different characteristics. In Burgenland’s Breitenbrunn, 800 kilometres to the east of Pfalz, Christof Höpler witnessed serious frost and reduced vineyard yields in 2016, nevertheless pulling out all the stops to produce fine wines.

Opimian’s Wine Consultant Jane Masters MW, tastes, selects and writes the commentary for each of the wines in the cellar offerings. Her aim is to find exclusive wines around the world that offer great value to Opimian members through regular visits to wine producers and trade shows. A Master of Wine since 1997 (one of 356 globally), Jane was elected as Chairman of the prestigious Institute of Masters of Wine in September 2016. Jane trained as a winemaker at the Bordeaux Institut d’Œnologie after a degree in Biological Chemistry and worked for UK retailer Marks & Spencer sourcing and managing the Wine & Drinks Category for 13 years.

Featured Cinciano --------------------------------4 The Wine People------------------------8 Avenue-------------------------------- 12 Poggio Graffetta ---------------------- 22 Le Vigne di Sammarco---------------- 26 Winetraders--------------------------- 30 Stepp --------------------------------- 34 Weingut Pflüger----------------------- 38 Weingut Ernst Bretz------------------- 42 Höpler--------------------------------- 46

— CELLAR 249 MANITOBA

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ITALY ITALY Poggibonsi

Cinciano Cinciano estate, close to Poggibonsi, lies just inside the Chianti Classico region in the far west of Tuscany. The private estate sits at the crest of a hill looking towards San Gimignano and was once a medieval hamlet. Winemaker, Valerio Marconi oversees the vineyards and winemaking as well as the olive oil production. The estate also features a cool “osteria”; I had lunch there last July and highly recommend it. The ancient buildings have been transformed into luxury accommodation.

“ Our philosophy is based on quality and tradition. Great attention is paid to the vineyards where manual steps, selecting buds, shoots, bunches and even leaves, ensure that we obtain the highest quality potential from the grapes.“

photo — Sangiovese vines in Cinciano’s Macericca vineyard

— ITALY CINCIANO

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9111

CINCIANO BIANCO, IGP TOSCANA, 2016 Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Grechetto $21.83

$131.00

9112

CINCIANO GOTIFREDO, IGP TOSCANA, 2016

A truly interesting Tuscan white wine, Valerio’s experience in New Zealand pays dividends every vintage. His Bianco 2016 is pale in colour with intense aromas of white fruits, pears and melon with a touch of honey. This is a smooth, medium-bodied wine that also has structure and a mineral finish; very classy. It is a blend of 70% Viognier, 20% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Grechetto. The grapes were picked and rapidly chilled to maximize flavour, and the juice was fermented at 12°C with no use of oak.

Cinciano uses grapes from younger Sangiovese vines, three to six years old, to produce their rosé Gotifredo. The bright, almost fluorescent pink colour is the result of a 12-hour maceration of the juice with the grape skins. Aromas of crushed raspberries with doughy notes precede a soft, smooth palate. This is not a frivolous rosé, with more weight and depth than most.

2017-2018, M8 D9

2017-2018, M8 D9

White fruits, pears, honey

6

6°C

Sangiovese $25.50

Crushed raspberries

$153.00

6°C

Supple, lemon, mineral finish, [00]

Soft, smooth, [02]

Crab-stuffed sole with lemon butter sauce

Asparagus, crispy prosciutto and Brie grilled cheese

CELLAR 249 — MANITOBA

photo — The Cinciano Hamlet, on the right, the vinification cellar, and at the far end, Osteria 1126


9113

CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, 2015 Sangiovese $33.00

Sangiovese is at its best in Chianti Classico wines.

$198.00

Here is a youthful and structured wine that needs some time to reveal its full personality. 2015 is considered by some as the vintage of the century. A cold and rainy winter was followed by an irregular spring that meant lower crops. The hot and dry summer lead to small bunches of fully ripe grapes. At Cinciano, Sangiovese grapes were harvested at the end of September into early October. This wine, deep in colour with bitter cherry and marzipan aromas, is medium to full-bodied. It is tight with great balance and will merit keeping. After fermentation in tank, it was matured in large Slavonian oak casks for eight to ten months. I recently drank the 2014 which remains youthful and tight, but after some time in the glass and a little bit of air it was delicious. There is no hurry to drink it though as it will continue to benefit from cellaring.

9114

CINCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, DOCG, 2013

2017-2025, M6 D8 Marzipan, bitter cherries

18°C

Structured, dark fruit Braised pork shoulder roast served with white beans

Sangiovese $48.00

$288.00

Grapes from the highest and oldest Cinciano plots at 300 metres, Camponi and Lunghe, are used to produce the Chianti Classico Riserva. The vineyards are 40 years old and are planted on typical Albarese soils; stony compact soils composed of shale, schist and limestone. Vineyards face southwest and produce low crops. The grapes were picked by hand in the middle of October. Fermentation with extended maceration of the skins is followed by aging for 16 months in Slavonian oak casks. The Chianti Classico Riserva 2013 is mellow with aromas of red and black cherries integrated with cedary oak. The palate reveals blackcurrant fruits with a supple and fine texture. This is a wellbalanced wine, elegant with a lingering finish; a classic vintage in Chianti. 2017-2024, M6 D9 Mellow, red cherries, cedary oak

18°C

Blackcurrant, fresh black cherries Garganelli with truffled bison meatballs, seasonal mushrooms and Parmigiano Reggiano

photo — Sangiovese vines cover a total area of 30 hectares in various phases of renewal.

— ITALY CINCIANO

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ITALY ITALY

Veneto & Tuscany

The Wine People The Wine People was established by Stefano Girelli, sourcing great value wines around Italy. Prosecco has become increasingly popular the world over, making bubbly accessible for any occasion. Sogatia is a good value everyday Chianti and is complemented by the single vineyard Altadonna Chianti Classico wines, the private estate of renowned consultant Stefano Chioccioli.

“ We take a holistic approach. We are in complete control of the entire production process, starting with careful management of the grapes, and meticulous winemaking by our own highly talented winemaker.“

photo — At the Chioccioli Altadonna family estate, quality and identity are paramount.

— ITALY THE WINE PEOPLE

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NEW

9115

DEA DEL MARE PROSECCO, DOP, EXTRA DRY, VINO SPUMANTE Glera $19.83

9116

NEW

SOGATIA CHIANTI, DOCG, 2016

Sangiovese, Canaiolo $119.00

A super Prosecco at a super price, I defy anyone to find better value. Pale in colour, with fruity pear drop aromas and a frothy mousse, this is crisp, fruity and very gluggable. Glera grapes were grown on gentle hillside slopes around Veneto and were picked late September.

$18.00

SOGATIA CHIANTI RISERVA, DOCG, 2012 Sangiovese

$108.00

This is light-bodied, easy-drinking Chianti with intense red cherry, redcurrant and blackcurrant aromas. It is soft with red fruit flavours, leading to balanced acidity and a bitter cherry finish. A small percentage of Canaiolo grapes were added to Sangiovese. It is simple, but tasty. 2017-2020, M8 D9 Red cherries, redcurrants

9117

$20.33

This is a more serious wine with some developed spicy notes. Woody with sour cherry flavours, medium-bodied with a fine texture, it is produced from 100% Sangiovese grapes grown around Florence at 200 to 400 metres. It was fermented in concrete vats at 22°C and left in contact with skins for up to 10 days. The wine was matured 12 months in large old Slavonian oak casks. It is ready for drinking and will remain at its peak for a few more years.

16°C 2017-2020, M8 D9

Red fruits, blackcurrant, bitter cherry Spaghetti Bolognese

$122.00

Woody, spices

18°C

Sour cherries Tagliata with arugula

2017-2018, M8 D9 Pear drops

6°C

Pears, apples, crisp acidity, [03] Olive all’Ascolana – stuffed fried olives

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CELLAR 249 — MANITOBA

photo — The Altadonna Sangiovese grapes are gently handpicked into small boxes.


NEW

9119 NEW

9118

Sangiovese, Merlot

ALTADONNA CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG, 2014, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA

$42.83

$172.00

Chioccioli Altadonna is the private estate of leading Tuscan wine consultant Stefano Chioccioli. It is managed by his sons Enrico, a law graduate, and older brother Niccolò, the winemaker. Located at Gaiole in the heart of Chianti Classico, the estate consists of 12 hectares of vineyards in Gaiole and Quercegrossa. The focus is on producing the highest quality possible. All work in the vineyard is done manually. This same focus is applied in the winery built in 2010 where every detail, from the double grape-sorting table to the finest French oak barrels, has been thoroughly thought through. Altadonna 2014 is mainly Sangiovese with a touch of Merlot. It has developed aromas of forest floor and smoke with red fruit. Mediumbodied and well-structured, it has firm acidity. A traditional fermentation was followed by aging in two to three-year-old oak barrels for 10 to 12 months.

photo — A breathtaking view of vineyards in the Chianti region

$257.00

Altadonna Riserva 2012 has a developed bouquet with aromas of undergrowth and dark fruits. The palate remains quite tight with some juicy dark fruits appearing after some time in the glass. This is an elegant wine with fine tannins and is medium to light-bodied. The best grapes are selected each year to produce the Riserva. Sangiovese and Merlot grapes were picked by hand into small boxes and sorted at the winery. Fermentation with skins was carried out for 21 days, followed by malolactic in French oak barrels and subsequent maturation for 14 to 16 months.

Sangiovese, Merlot $28.67

ALTADONNA CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, DOCG, 2012, CHIOCCIOLI ALTADONNA

2017-2022, M6 D9 Forest floor, red fruits, smoke

18°C

2017-2022, M6 D8 Leafy, coal, undergrowth

18°C

Medium-bodied, earthy fruits

Juicy dark fruits

Risotto with pancetta and wild mushrooms

Grilled Black Angus ribs with rosemary sea salt

— ITALY THE WINE PEOPLE

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“ At Moretti Omero we strive to improve the expression of each variety and the potential of each individual vineyard.“

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CELLAR 249 — MANITOBA

photo — The Moretti Omero farm in the Montefalco area of Umbria grows Sagrantino organically.


ITALY ITALY

Avenue

We are taking another look at Italy, where we revisit the famous regions of Piemonte and Tuscany, and go on to explore southwards, in a little more depth, lesser reputed regions and Italy’s eclectic mix of grape varieties and wine styles.

PIEMONTE

NEW

9121

NEW

9120

TRUFFLE HUNTER LEDA, DOC LANGHE, ARNEIS, 2016, BOSIO WINERY

TRUFFLE HUNTER LEDA BARBERA D’ALBA, DOC, 2015, BOSIO WINERY Barbera $27.00

$162.00

Arneis

The Arneis grape in Piemonte produces dry and vibrant wines. Truffle Hunter Leda Langhe Arneis 2016 is a fruity wine with a firm structure and flavours of citrus, fresh Golden Delicious apples and quince. It is mediumbodied, dry with a steely finish. The vineyards sit at 200 to 300 metres on clay-calcareous soils. The grapes were picked in September and underwent skin contact for three days prior to fermentation at low temperature and aging for six months on yeast lees.

A structured, tight-knit wine with dark fruit flavours, this is a good example produced from Piemonte’s black Barbera grape variety, grown around the town of Alba. It ripens late, but earlier than Nebbiolo, hence is suitable in sites where Nebbiolo doesn’t ripen. This sometimes leads to the impression that Barbera gives a lesser wine, but this is not the case. Barbera simply has its own personality. Leda Truffle Hunter Barbera d’Alba 2015 has herbal cola aromas and Barbera’s characteristic acidity, combined with good weight and balance, allowing it to develop over several years. It was matured for 18 months in new French oak barrels.

2017-2018, M8 D9

2017-2024, M6 D7

$22.33

White fruits, pears

$134.00

6°C

Cola, herbal, candy floss

18°C

Citrus, quince, Golden Delicious apples, [00]

Dark fruits, firm, structured palate

Kale pesto tortellini

Veal shank osso buco over toasted gnocchi

— ITALY AVENUE

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Piemonte’s location between the Alps and the Mediterranean makes it ideal for vine-growing.

NEW

9123

NEW

9122

TRUFFLE HUNTER LEDA BARBARESCO, DOCG, 2014, BOSIO WINERY

TRUFFLE HUNTER LEDA BAROLO, DOCG, 2013, BOSIO WINERY Nebbiolo $54.33

$326.00

Nebbiolo

With its transparent brick ruby colour, Leda Truffle Hunter Barbaresco 2014 shows some development and is coming up to its optimum for drinking; the 2014 vintage in Piemonte produced wines for earlier drinking. The bouquet is restrained with evolved aromas of forest floor, truffle and ripe strawberries. An ethereal wine, it is light to medium-bodied with succulent mid-palate fruits and sweet tobacco flavours. Nebbiolo grapes were cultivated around the villages of Neive and Barbaresco. The juice was left in contact with skins for 10 days during fermentation, followed by 24 months maturation in oak barrels.

2013 Barolos have turned out rather well; producing concentrated tannic, yet balanced wines with cellaring potential. Leda Truffle Hunter Barolo 2013 is dense in colour; the aroma is youthful with notes of herbs, cola and smoke. This is a structured wine with a broad mid-palate and grippy tannins on the finish revealing complex flavours of dried fruits, concentrated ripe dark fruit, and tar. It will benefit from cellaring prior to drinking. The vineyards are located around the village of Verduno at 300 to 350 metres. The wine was matured for three years in French oak barrels.

2017-2021, M7 D8

2017-2024, M6 D8

$41.83

Forest floor, ripe strawberries

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CELLAR 249 — MANITOBA

$251.00

18°C

Complex, cola, smoke, herbs

18°C

Spice, sweet tobacco

Dried fruits, tar, concentrated

Goat chops served with homemade vegetable pasta – Brussel sprouts, shiitake mushrooms and onions

Porcini-crusted venison steak served with braised cabbage

photo — Valter Bosio’s truffle hunting dog Leda, passed away and is remembered through this range of wines.


NEW

9124

NEW

BARBARESCO, DOCG, MERUZZANO, 2014, ORLANDO ABRIGO Nebbiolo $65.33

TERRENOSTRE SPATUSS, MOSCATO D’ASTI, DOCG, 2016 Moscato Bianco

$392.00

Meruzzano is a cru in the far south of the Barbaresco region. It has some of the highest hills, up to 420 metres. The Orlando Abrigo vineyards are planted at 380 to 400 metres, facing southwest. Deep ruby in colour, Orlando Abrigo Barbaresco Meruzzano 2014 has a rich, spicy nose, with great depth; undergrowth, raisins, dried fruits and vanilla. It is soft with a rich midpalate, complex with a long finish and has lots of potential for cellaring. Despite being a lighter vintage, the quality of the terroir shines through. The grapes were harvested by hand, lightly crushed and left to macerate on skins for 20 to 25 days. The wine was matured for 10 months in 500-litre oak casks, 20% new. 2017-2024, M6 D9 Complex, undergrowth, raisins, vanilla, spices

9125

18°C

Rich, succulent fruits

$25.00

$150.00

In contrast to Piemonte’s reds, which have aging potential, Moscato d’Asti is a sparkling wine with immediate appeal. It is produced by partial fermentation to produce a sweet, low alcohol fizz with attractive fruity Muscat flavours. Terrenostre’s Spatuss has grapey, floral aromas with crisp acidity balancing the sweetness and a refreshing elegant lemon finish. 2017-2018, M8 D9 Floral, grapey

6°C

Sweet, crisp acidity, lemon, [08] Fig, prosciutto and Burrata cheese salad, Lemon tart

Pappardelle with duck ragù topped with parmesan cheese flakes

photo — The Orlando Abrigo Nebbiolo grapes are grown in the Meruzzano region.

— ITALY AVENUE

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TUSCANY

9126

ROSSO DI MONTALCINO, DOC, 2015, CASTELLO TRICERCHI Sangiovese Grosso $32.83

$197.00

2017-2022, M6 D9

Oaky, cherries, cinnamon Curried lamb and carrot stew

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO, DOCG, 2012, CASTELLO TRICERCHI Sangiovese Grosso

Castello Tricerchi is a 400-hectare estate located to the north of the fortified hilltop town of Montalcino. At the centre of the estate stands a 13th-century castle. The Tricerchi family completed the castle in 1441 and it served as a fortress for pilgrims marching to Rome. Only 13 hectares of the estate are planted with vineyards, with seven distinct plots. Wines are still made and matured in the ancient cellar below the castle. Quite light in colour with a brick ruby hue, Castello Tricerchi Rosso di Montalcino 2015 has oaky aromas of coconut, vanilla and crème brûlée over a background of red fruits. It is soft, light to medium-bodied with mellow flavours of cherry and other red fruits followed by cinnamon and cloves. It was aged in small barrels and in 15 to 20 hectolitres Slavonian oak casks.

Coconut, vanilla, red fruit

9127

18°C

$63.83

$383.00

Castello Tricerchi produced its Brunello 2012 from two plots; Vigna del Velo and Vigna del Castello. Despite three years of maturation in oak casks, this wine shows less obvious oak character than Tricerchi’s Rosso di Montalcino 2015. The concentration and richness of the fruit has absorbed and partners the oak perfectly. Recent tastings of many 2012 Montalcinos have shown it to be a great vintage. The vines are 20 years old and face southwest on slopes at 300 metres with clay-sand soils. It has intense blackcurrant notes with a touch of smoke. Soft and smooth on the palate, it is youthful and well-balanced with a fine tannin texture. Sangiovese Grosso grapes, known as Brunello in the region, were picked by hand at the beginning of October. Extended 30-day maceration on skins was followed by 36 months in Slavonian oak casks. 2017-2028, M6 D7 Blackcurrant, smoke

18°C

Smooth, juicy black fruits Bistecca alla Fiorentina with tarragon sauce

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CELLAR 249 — MANITOBA

photo — Tommaso Squarcia, the next generation at Castello Tricerchi, leads a tasting of his wines.


Last day to order June 2, 2017

NEW

9129

POLICROMO, IGT COLLI DELLA TOSCANA CENTRALE, 2011 Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon

NEW

9128

QUERCETO, TUSCAN RED, IGT TOSCANA, 2014

$446.00

This wine is a very drinkable and tasty wine produced from a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Sangiovese grown on hills around Valdarno in Chianti. The 2014 is mellow with aromas of red fruits and musky notes. Light to medium-bodied, it is youthful with soft, juicy acidity and a fresh fruit finish. It is a crowd pleaser for everyday drinking.

Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon vines are cultivated on a fourhectare plot at 390 to 430 metres close to Greve in the heart of Chianti Classico to produce Policromo. The inclusion of the international Cabernet Sauvignon grape precludes the wine from being classified a Chianti, hence the IGT designation. This concentrated and structured wine is medium to full-bodied. It has a juicy mid-palate with great depth and flavours of blackcurrant and cherries. It tastes delicious now and has lots of life ahead of it.

2017-2021, M7 D9

2017-2027, M6 D8

Merlot, Sangiovese $21.67

Mellow, red fruits

photo — The Querceto castle was originally built in 1200 and largely restored in 1500.

$74.33

$130.00

18°C

Spicy oak, cherries

18°C

Light to medium-bodied

Blackcurrant, juicy mid-palate

Eggplant parmesan

Roman oxtail stew served on a bed of semolina

— ITALY AVENUE

17


UMBRIA NEW

9131

DUCA ODOARDO VOCANTE, ROSSO DELL’UMBRIA, IGT, 2016, TERRE DE LA CUSTODIA Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Merlot $17.17

$103.00

Terre de La Custodia is a family-owned vineyard in Umbria. The Sagrantino grape variety probably originated in Umbria and this is by far where it is mostly planted. It was cultivated by Franciscan monks who carefully guarded their winemaking secrets. The vineyards were henceforth named “La Custodia”. Terre de La Custodia has 37 hectares of Sagrantino on hills in the districts of Montefalco and Gualdo Cattaneo. In Vocante 2016, Sagrantino is blended with Sangiovese and Merlot, producing a sweetly perfumed wine with some red fruits. It is light to medium-bodied with some firm grip on the finish combined with bitter cherry and liquorice flavours.

EMILIA-ROMAGNA NEW

9130

MONTELOCCO, IGP LAMBRUSCO EMILIA, 2016, VENTURINI BALDINI Salamino $25.50

$153.00

A traditional Lambrusco wine from the EmiliaRomagna region (the land of Parmesan cheese and Parma ham), Montelocco is a sparkling red wine with a touch of sweetness. Many Italian varieties are named Lambrusco, which means wild grape. Salamino is the most

18

CELLAR 249 — MANITOBA

widely planted of the Lambrusco varieties and takes its name for the cylindrical shape of its grape bunches. Intense in colour, it has aromas of red berries, cherries and some balsamic notes. It is concentrated with good fruit, red cherries and chocolate flavours. The Venturini Baldini estate sits in the Reggio Emilia hills and has been farming its 40 hectares of surrounding vineyards organically since 2002, the first in the region to do so.

2017-2019, M8 D9 Red berries, cherries, balsamic

8°C

2017-2020, M8 D9 Sweet perfume, red fruits

18°C

Red cherries, chocolate, [00]

Bitter cherry, liquorice

Salume crudo plate including Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma

Broccoli rabe, sausage and fresh mozzarella pizza

photo — At Venturini Baldini, the vines are grown on hilly terrain and are organically farmed.


MARCHE

ABRUZZO

NEW

9132

NEW

MONTEFALCO ROSSO, DOC, 2014, BIOLOGICO, MORETTI OMERO Sangiovese, Sagrantino $41.83

$251.00

9133

VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO, DOC, 2016, PIERSANTI

Montepulciano

Verdicchio $17.17

9134

CAPOMANDRA CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO, DOC, 2016, AGRIVERDE

$103.00

$25.33

$152.00

One of Italy’s most famous dry white wines is produced from the Verdicchio grape, which like many varieties in Italy has a host of synonyms. The grapes were grown on hilly terrain in the province of Ancona close to the Esino River. Pale in colour, it has a limey aroma which leads to a light, slightly spritzy palate and flavours of green and sour apples.

This is a bright crunchy rosé wine with aromas of grenadine, pomegranate and raspberries. It is crisp and refreshing with marked acidity and tangy redcurrant and cranberry flavours. Montepulciano grapes were cultivated on the Capomandra vineyard at Rogatti.

2017-2018, M8 D9

2017-2018, M8 D9

Green apples

6°C

Grenadine, raspberry

Limes, spritz, [00]

Redcurrants, cranberry, [00]

Fresh tuna salad with avocado

Tomato and basil bruschetta

6°C

Moretti Omero is a 32-hectare family farm located in the Montefalco region with 13 hectares of vineyards. They also produce olive oil and grappa. Montefalco, a medieval hamlet, gives its name to the wines produced from the vineyards surrounding it in the Montefalco DOC. Moretti Omero’s 2014 wine is organic. It is quite restrained with red cherries, black fruit, coffee and smoky aromas. It is medium-bodied, well-balanced with a juicy cherry finish and easily stands its ground against wines from other prestigious regions. It was matured for 12 months in large French oak casks. 2017-2020, M7 D8 Red cherries

18°C

Red and black fruits, coffee, smoke Roast pheasant breast with black truffle and black pepper glaze

photo — The residence of Agriverde’s Di Carlo family; today the house is also a boutique hotel.

— ITALY AVENUE

19


NEW

9135

NEW

PIANE DI MAGGIO MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO, DOC, 2015, AGRIVERDE Montepulciano $20.50

9136

CAPOMANDRA MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO, DOC, 2013, BARRICATO, AGRIVERDE Montepulciano

$123.00

$40.33

$242.00

Montepulciano grapes are cultivated on Agriverde’s Capomandra estate using both traditional Pergola trellis and the more modern, higher density, spurred pruned cordon training system. Intense and vibrant in colour with a somewhat restrained aroma, it has ripe fruit notes of apples and blackberries. This is a mediumbodied wine with structure and balance and, despite having been aged in oak for 18 months, this does not dominate in any way. 2017-2022, M6 D8 Apples, blackberries

18°C

CAMPANIA 9137

COLLEANTICO CAMPANIA FALANGHINA, IGT, 2016 Falanghina $17.17

The Campania region in southern Italy extends out and inland from its capital Naples and is celebrated for its culture, gastronomy and, of course, the quality of its white wines. The region was originally settled by Ancient Greeks and maintained a Greco-Roman culture during the Roman era. The white Falanghina grape is one typical of the region. Torrevigne cultivate Falanghina on the hilly slope around Benevento. The 2016 has flinty aromas with a hint of almond which leads to a soft, broad palate. At 11.5% it is relatively light in alcohol and very easy-drinking. 2017-2018, M8 D9

Red cherries, concentrated

The Di Carlo family has been producing wine in Abruzzo since the early 19th century. Agriverde was one of the first vineyards to be certified organic in Italy, back in 1991. Giannicola Di Carlo, an agronomist by training, led the transition to producing 100% organic wines converting his 65 hectares. They are also certified Bio vegan; no animal products are used in the vineyard or winery. Seaweeds and humic acids are used as fertilizers. Agriverde’s Piane di Maggio vineyard lies at 250 metres facing south, southeast. Vines are planted at low density on traditional tall Pergola Abruzzese trellises. Deep purple in colour, the 2015 has ripe black cherry fruits and spice aromas. It is soft and concentrated with a fine texture. It is a more concentrated and finer wine than the price suggests.

Braised wild boar sausage with tomatoes, carrots, courgette and potatoes

$103.00

Flinty, almond

6° C

Soft, light, [00] Batter-fried fresh anchovies

2017-2021, M7 D9 Black cherries, spice

18°C

Concentrated, dark fruits Grilled pork tenderloin with poached cherries over creamy polenta

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photo — A passion for nature and love for traditions are the inspiration for the Colleantico Falanghina.


SARDEGNA NEW

9139

CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA JERZU, DOC, MARGHÌA, 2015, ANTICHI PODERI JERZU Cannonau $27.33

$164.00

The Mediterranean island of Sardegna lies 200 kilometres off the west coast of Italy, south of Corsica. Cannonau is the local name for Garnacha and is planted mainly in the east of the island. In the past it was used to make high alcoholic sweet wines, more recently for strong concentrated dry reds. The grapes were grown around the town of Jerzu in the central southeast of the island. Produced by the local cooperative, Marghìa has an intensely spicy nose with oak, vanilla, leather, red fruits and earthy aromas. The palate is soft with mulberry flavours, other forest fruits and some good firm tannin. Anyone who enjoys a glass of Châteauneufdu-Pape will love this wine.

PUGLIA NEW

9138

QUARTO DUCALE, DOP ROSSO DI CERIGNOLA, 2013, TORRE QUARTO Uva di Troia, Negroamaro $28.67

$172.00

Torre Quarto winery, at Cerignola in the north of Puglia, was built by French Dukes de la Rochefoucauld in 1847 to produce red wine to be sent to France where it was blended, bottled and sold as French wine. The Dukes had large estates in southern Italy. The largest in Cerignola covered an area of about 5000 hectares, of which

photo — Jerzu’s wines have won international awards, thanks to excellent raw materials and technology.

3000 were vineyards. The winery was built close to Cerignola and was called “Quarto Ducale” (duke quarter), because the estate was a quarter of the Cerignola district. Spicy cedary oak characters with a touch of eucalyptus dominate the aroma of Quarto Ducale 2013, following 15 to 18 months in French oak casks. More sweet fruit emerges on the palate with a dense and firm, silty texture, and flavours of bitter liquorice. A rich and concentrated wine, the oak should integrate with some cellaring. It is produced from a blend of two of Puglia’s indigenous varieties; 70% Uva di Troia and 30% Negroamaro. 2017-2022, M6 D8 Eucalyptus, spicy oak

18°C

2017-2022, M6 D8 Intense spicy oak, red fruits, vanilla

Bitter liquorice, dark fruits

Berry fruits

Orecchiette with cherry tomatoes, olives and eggplant

Ghisadu – lamb stew

16°C

— ITALY AVENUE

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ITALY ITALY

Poggio Graffetta Sicily is the largest Mediterranean island and has a rich winemaking history starting with the Greeks, who arrived on the eastern part of the island in 8th century BC. The island also boasts the largest active volcano in Europe, Mount Etna. Calogero Calì purchased the Poggio Graffetta estate at the end of 2003 and planting started in 2004. The vineyard lies in the far south of the island, just five kilometres from the sea, close to Ispica. This is a historical region, run by noblemen and full of Sicilian Baroque architecture to prove it. Soils at Poggio Graffetta are rocky with calcareous stones formed from the stratification of an old coral reef. The wines are made by young winemaker Salvatore Martinico.

“ We aspire to write an important chapter for winemaking in this region.“

photo — A 16th-century ballium near Ispica, a typical courtyard protected by high walls and buildings

— ITALY POGGIO GRAFFETTA

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NEW

GRAFFETTA GRILLO, DOC SICILIA, 2016

9141

Grillo $22.17

GRAFFETTA NERO D’AVOLA, DOC SICILIA, 2014 Nero d’Avola

$133.00

$22.17

$133.00

Poggio Graffetta produces just a small quantity of white wine each year from the Grillo grape. The grapes are grown in the Segesta area on vines planted at 600 metres above sea level. The four-hectare plot benefits from a cooler climate and produces an elegant wine with mellow ripe fruits, peaches, apples and lemons. The palate is smooth with a touch of butterscotch on the finish.

The area around Poggio Graffetta and the Val di Noto is the land of Nero d’Avola. It is a variety that ripens late, and the warm, dry, windy climate allows for a long and steady ripening that suits it well. The vineyard is planted on chalky soil and is now 10 years old. Poggio Graffetta Nero d’Avola 2014 has an earthy, leathery character which complements aromas of ripe forest fruits. It is a soft, juicy wine, supple and elegant, with some dryness on the finish and some horsey notes. It was aged for six months, half in oak casks, and half in tank.

2017-2018, M8 D9

2017-2020, M7 D9

Banana, ripe fruits

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9142

6°C

Leather, forest fruits, earth

18° C

Lemons, fresh apples, [00]

Meaty, elegant

Sicilian arancini di riso – Sicilian rice balls

Grilled filet mignon with pommes purée, roasted shallots, mushrooms and garlic

CELLAR 249 — MANITOBA

photo — Salvatore Martinico, oenologist, in the Grillo vineyard


NEW

9143

NEW

GRAFFETTA SYRAH, DOC SICILIA, 2014

GRAFFETTA HYSPA, IGT TERRE SICILIANE, 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Petit Verdot

Syrah $22.17

9144

$133.00

$25.50

$153.00

Graffetta Syrah is a wine with personality. Slightly green leaf characters combine with leather and balsamic notes over a background of black and red cherries. Poggio Graffetta planted six hectares of Syrah grapes 10 years ago with vineyards facing directly south. The grapes were harvested in late August and early September 2014. They were fermented at 28°C and the wine was matured in a combination of oak casks and tank.

Hyspa is the ancient Greek name for Ispica, the closest town to the winery. The climate around Ispica allows a long, slow ripening of the grapes suitable not only for the local Nero d’Avola, but also for late-ripening Bordeaux grape varieties such Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. The 2014 is a complex wine with aromas of violets and herbs. It is elegant with some chewy tannins and a meaty character. It is a dense wine finishing on herbal and bitter cherry notes. It was matured for six months in oak casks.

2017-2022, M6 D8

2017-2022, M6 D7

Leather, green leaf

18°C

Violets, herbs, dark fruit

18°C

Cherries

Chewy, meaty flavours

Seared venison loin with wild mushrooms and spinach risotto

Grilled bison hanger steak served with sautéed rapini and roasted garlic

photo — Poggio Graffetta’s Syrah and Nero d’Avola are aged 50% in barrique and 50% in tank.

Order online at opimian.ca

— ITALY POGGIO GRAFFETTA

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“ The passion for the land and its products have guided and continue to guide us in an ongoing commitment to excellence.“

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photo — Negroamaro is adaptable to different soil types, but prefers a mixture of clay and limestone.


ITALY ITALY

Brindisi, Puglia

Le Vigne di Sammarco Cellino San Marco

Salento, in Southern Puglia, forms Italy’s “heel”. The limestone peninsula, sometimes known as Terra d’Otranto, is surrounded by the Adriatic Sea to the south and Ionian Sea to the north and east, both parts of the Mediterranean Sea. The land is flat and in the warm summer months the temperature is tempered by the cooling breezes blowing in from the seas. Le Vigne di Sammarco vineyards are close to Cellino San Marco, located between Brindisi and Lecce, in the heart of Salento.

NEW

9146

CHARDONNAY, IGP SALENTO, 2016

Chardonnay $17.17

9147

PRIMITIVO, IGP SALENTO, 2015

Primitivo $103.00

Chardonnay grapes were picked in early August to produce a fresh, crisp wine, simple in style with ripe white fruits and pear flavours, balanced with fresh citrus acidity.

$17.17

$103.00

One of Puglia’s main black grape varieties, Primitivo, is the same grape as California’s Zinfandel. Deep ruby in colour, aromas of plums, ripe fruits, dried figs and prunes emerge on the nose. The palate is mediumbodied with cooked fruit and bitter cherry flavours.

2017-2018, M8 D9 White fruits

6°C

2017-2019, M8 D9 Plums, prunes, dried figs

Pears, light, some sweetness, [02]

Cooked dark fruits, bitter cherry

Lentils and prawn soup

Lamb shanks and eggplant stew

18°C

— ITALY LE VIGNE DI SAMMARCO

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9148

SALICE SALENTINO, DOP, 2014

Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera $18.67

$112.00

The Salice Salentino DOP in southern Puglia was established in 1976 and prescribes that its red wines must contain a minimum of 75% Negroamaro. The balance is made up of other authorized grapes. In this case the blend is 80% Negroamaro with 20% Malvasia Nera, another typical grape variety of the region. Le Vigne di Sammarco’s Salice Salentino 2014 has aromas of raisins, smoke and coffee liqueur. The palate has a sweet and sour impression finishing on bitter liquorice notes. 2017-2020, M7 D9 Raisins, coffee liqueur

16°C

Sweet and sour fruits, smoky finish

9149

PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA, DOP, 2015 Primitivo di Manduria $20.33

9150

SOLEMNIS, IGP SALENTO PRIMITIVO, 2014 Primitivo

$122.00

Manduria is located on the west side of the peninsula. In this region, Primitivo produces strong, slightly rustic wines. Restrained on the nose, it has subtle plum fruit aromas combined with smoke and a hint of leather. It is medium-bodied with good concentration and balance. Grown on traditional trained Albarello vines, the grapes were picked mid-September, destemmed, crushed and fermented on skins for six to seven days.

$25.50

$153.00

Solemnis Primitivo Salento 2014 is youthful with fresh ripe fruit characters complemented by cedary oak. The wine was matured for six months in French Allier oak barrels. The grapes are from Le Vigne di Sammarco’s vineyards close to Cellino San Marco. This is a medium-bodied wine with flavours of blackberries and apples with firm acidity.

2017-2020, M7 D9 Smoke, hint of leather, fruit

16°C

Bitter cherries Grilled sausage and pepper kabobs with balsamic glaze

Sweet and sour braised rabbit

2017-2022, M6 D9 Ripe fruits, blackberries, cedar

18°C

Fresh fruits, firm acidity Porchetta – stuffed pork

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photo — Negroamaro undergoing “invaiatura” – the onset of ripening.


NEW

9151

VERVE, IGP SALENTO NEGROAMARO, 2014

9152

BISSO, RISERVA ROSSO, DOP SALICE SALENTINO, 2013

Negroamaro $25.50

$153.00

Negroamaro, Malvasia $26.33

$158.00

9153

ARCHÈ BLEND, IGP SALENTO, 2014, FRANCO RIZZELLO SELEZIONE Negroamaro, Primitivo $34.83

$209.00

This wine is produced from 100% Negroamaro which, as the name suggests, is black and produces dark, structured wines. Deep black cherry in colour, Verve 2014 has intense aromas of Parma Violets, blackcurrant and black cherries with some vanilla. The palate is succulent with a cocktail of dark fruits. A rich mid-palate leads to grippy tannins on the finish. After fermentation in tank, it was matured in Allier oak barrels for six months.

Produced in the warmer 2013 vintage, Bisso has mellow dark fruit aromas combined with a savoury character, spicy oak and toast. The palate is concentrated with juicy fruit flavours and a long vanilla finish. After fermentation in tank, the wine was transferred to barrels for malolactic fermentation and matured in the same French oak barrels for 12 months.

Archè Blend is produced from 50% Negroamaro and 50% Primitivo, grown on free-standing Albarello and trellised vines. It is an intense dense wine not for the faint of heart and romps in at a mere 15% alcohol. It is purple in colour with aromas heavily marked by the oak; it was matured in oak barrels for 14 months. Toast, coffee, bacon fat and vanilla lie over warm, ripe dark fruit behind. Medium to full-bodied, despite the high alcohol, it tastes fresh with juicy black fruits and a long finish.

2017-2022, M6 D9

2017-2022, M6 D9

2017-2022, M6 D9

Parma Violets, black cherries, blackcurrant, vanilla

16°C

Mellow, dark fruits, savoury spice

18°C

Toast, coffee, vanilla, ripe dark fruits

18°C

Succulent fruit, structured, grippy finish

Juicy fruits, vanilla

Juicy black fruits

Venison casserole with blackcurrants and Negroamaro sauce

Herb-roasted lamb with roasted potatoes

Beef Wellington with prosciutto and porcini mushrooms

photo — Left to right: Marco, Francesca and Carmine Rizzello, Le Vigne di Sammarco’s fourth generation

— ITALY LE VIGNE DI SAMMARCO

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ITALY ITALY

Winetraders Michael Palij MW, a Canadian by birth, studied English and philosophy in his home town of Toronto before immigrating to the UK. Having fallen in love with Italy on a wine-buying trip in 1994, he now makes it his mission to search out high quality estates throughout Italy. He established Winetraders in 1997 and believes Italy to be the most interesting wine-producing country in the world.

“ The estates which we have chosen are based on hundreds of visits to every corner of this fascinating peninsula over the course of the past two decades.“

photo — Bruno and Osvaldo Cabutto stand amongst the new equipment at their otherwise traditional estate.

— ITALY WINETRADERS

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NEW

9155

NEW

CABUTTO, TENUTA LA VOLTA, BAROLO, DOCG, 2013 Nebbiolo $66.50

9156

NEW

IL GRUCCIONE, DOC LUGANA, 2016, NUNZIO GHIRALDI

9157

Trebbiano di Lugana $399.00

$26.17

ZUCCHETTO VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO, “COLFONDO”, DOCG, 2015, AZIENDA AGRICOLA PAOLO ZUCCHETTO Glera

$157.00

$28.17

$169.00

This is a stunning Barolo from the great 2013 vintage which commands some cellaring. The Cabutto brothers, Osvaldo and Bruno, produce traditional wines from their 20 hectares of vineyards on prime sites around Novello, Barolo and La Morra. Produced with an extended maceration on the grape skins followed by three years of maturation in traditional Slavonian oak “botte”, this is a powerful and structured wine. Bordering on austere at first, it has herbal and cigar box aromas and, with time, unfolds to reveal delicious bitter cherry flavours over a solid, firm background.

Nunzio Ghiraldi’s vineyards lay on the heavy clay soils just a few hundred metres south of Lake Garda. His grandfather established these vineyards, but for two generations the grapes were sold to a famous producer close by, until Nunzio came along. A lawyer-turned winemaker, he makes elegant, flavoursome wines. His Lugana 2016 is pale in colour with ripe white fruits, a touch of honey and a structured creamy palate with a mineral finish. Trebbiano di Lugana has recently been shown to be the same as the Verdicchio grape.

Prosecco can be produced in nine provinces. The majority is made from grapes grown on lowlying plains. Prosecco Valdobbiadene DOCG is a much more limited area with superior hillside vineyards. Paolo Zucchetto makes a range of Prosecco from Glera grapes grown on his estate. The one I have selected, Colfondo, is bottle-fermented, capturing all the fizz as it ferments. The quirky character of this wine is that it has not been disgorged. The yeast lees are still in the bottle, continuing to add depth and weight, giving the wine more complexity and flavour. To serve, chill upright; the last few glasses will be cloudy.

2017-2028, M6 D7

2017-2019, M8 D9

2017-2018, M8 D9

Leaf, pencil lead, red fruit

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18°C

White fruits, honey

6°C

Bread dough, fruit

6°C

Bitter cherry, structured

Smooth, mineral finish, [00]

Pears, nutty, [00]

Cassoulet with sausage and beans

Pan-seared shrimp with olive oil-poached leeks, sautéed mushrooms and spinach

Aged Italian cheeses such as Parmigiano and Grana

CELLAR 249 — MANITOBA

photo — The view across Barolo from Tenuta La

Volta


NEW

9158

NEW

MACRAMÈ PRIMITIVO, IGT PUGLIA, 2015, I PASTINI Primitivo $18.17

9159

RAMPONE MINUTOLO, IGP VALLE D’ITRIA, 2016, I PASTINI Minutolo

$109.00

$30.33

$182.00

The Carparelli family, owners of I Pastini in the Itria Valley in the heart of Puglia, focus their efforts on restoring and growing indigenous grape varieties of the region. The vineyards lie around Locorotondo and Martina Franca. The valley benefits from a constant breeze during the summer, which moderates temperatures. Primitivo Macramé 2015 is slightly lower in alcohol than is typical of the region at 13.5%. It has a mellow bouquet with red and black cherry aromas. The palate is soft and juicy, medium-bodied and well-balanced.

Rampone Minutolo is produced from pure Minutolo, an old indigenous grape variety rescued from extinction in 2000 by Gianni Carparelli and his uncle, a professor of viticulture. Rampone Minutolo 2016 has a pungent aroma with concentrated lime cordial and flinty notes. It is medium-bodied with more fresh lemon and lime flavours on the palate and a green apple finish. It is an interesting and structured wine from an unusual grape variety.

2017-2021, M7 D9

2017-2019, M8 D8

Red and black cherry fruits

photo — Slavonian oak barrels, in use since 2005, enhance the finesse and elegance of Cabutto’s Barolo.

18°C

Smoky, flint, lime cordial

Juicy fruit, medium-bodied

Lemon, lime, green apples, [01]

Tortiglioni with spicy sausage sauce and Brussel sprouts

Lemon risotto with peas

6°C

— ITALY WINETRADERS

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GERMANY GERMANY Pfalz

Stepp Gerd Stepp grew up on his family vineyard in the Pfalz. As a child and teen, he spent many days with his parents in the vineyards pruning, harvesting, and working the canopy in the summer months. He always knew he would continue the family tradition. However, he also has extensive international experience and returned to the Pfalz region after 20 years in Tuscany, New Zealand, South Africa and other less obvious wine regions such as Zimbabwe and Nigeria. “I wanted to create something different in Germany. My family vineyards are all located in the two villages of Bad Dürkheim and Wachenheim, which would have meant that the soil types and climate I could work with were limited, so I decided to work with vineyards from the entire spectrum of ‘terroir’ available in the Pfalz. This enables me to make distinctively different styles of wines that are more expressive of the region and not restrained by the location of the vineyards to the winery, as is so often the case in Germany.”

“ Having spent years growing grapes in the Pfalz region helps me to choose the best vineyard sites.“

photo — Stone wall-terraced Riesling vineyards in Bad Dürkheim, Pfalz

— GERMANY STEPP

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NEW

9160

NEW

STEPP PINOT BLANC, 2016, PFALZ

Pinot Blanc $21.67

9161

NEW

STEPP RIESLING, 2016, PFALZ

Pinot Blanc $130.00

The Pfalz is an extension of the Alsace region in France, as the Vosges Mountains become known as the Haardt Mountains. Soils are equally varied, and the climate is one of the sunniest and driest in Germany due to the protection afforded by the mountains. This is a fine Pinot Blanc with depth, fresh apple and white fruit aromas. The palate is soft initially with a crisp finish and mineral character. The grapes for Stepp Pinot Blanc came from the highest altitude vineyards sites in Pfalz. Soils have a high level of limestone and help reduce vigour of the vines, channeling energy into the fruit.

$23.33

6°C

$140.00

$29.33

$176.00

It is no wonder that Riesling is king in Pfalz. Stepp Riesling really demonstrates the nobility of the grape variety; this was one of my favorite wines in the whole tasting for this cellar offering. Pale in colour, it has a steely aroma with pungent green fruits, grapefruit and flint. It is pure and linear on the palate with a fresh lime flavour and a long lemon and lime finish. Riesling grapes came from two vineyard sites, Herxheim am Berg and Bad Dürkheim. Vineyards are on the gentle slopes of the Haardt Mountains and soils vary between loess-loam with shell limestone (Muschelkalk) and those around Bad Dürkheim, rich in coloured sandstones. 2017-2020, M7 D9 Green fruits, grapefruit

6°C

Crisp, melon, [01] Fresh limes, lemon, citrus, [02] Pork tenderloin with roasted apples and onions

STEPP RIESLING VOM KALLSTADTER SAUMAGEN, 2015, PFALZ Riesling

2017-2018, M8 D9 Fresh apples, white fruits

9162

Caramelized scallops with citrus and crispy shallot

This single vineyard Riesling comes from Kallstadter Saumagen in the north of the region, one of Germany’s most highly regarded crus. The vineyard faces southeast on loess-loam soil with Muschelkalk. The Stepp 2015 has an intense smoky, flint aroma with fruit and earthiness. The palate reveals more fruit; limes, passion fruit and green apples. This is a great wine with balance and length. I drank the rest of the sample bottle over dinner with friends and everyone was blown away. It was slowly fermented over two to three months. The wine was matured in tank on fine lees for a further four months with only minimal handling before bottling to ensure freshness and longevity. 2017-2022, M6 D8 Flinty, smoke, limes

6°C

Passion fruit, green apples, [01] Pork Schnitzel with potato-apple salad

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photo — Temperature-controlled white wine tanks waiting for the new vintage


Not sure what to order? One of our Wine Concierges can help! 800-361-9421

NEW

9164

STEPP BEERENAUSLESE, *S*, 2015, PFALZ Ortega, Scheurebe

NEW

9163

$28.67

$172.00

STEPP PINOT NOIR, 2015, PFALZ This late harvest wine was made from grapes affected by noble rot or Botrytis Cinerea, like Sauternes, and picked one month later than for drier styles. Ortega and Scheurebe grapes were cultivated in the most southern part of Pfalz close to the border with Alsace. Leaves were plucked to expose the grape bunches to the sun and encourage noble rot to develop. Selected botrytized grapes were handpicked in November and gently pressed. The juice was fermented with 60% in two to three year old oak barrels. The wine was left on its lees for 10 months and then bottled, capturing the full intensity of the concentrated flavour.

Pinot Noir $29.67

$178.00

Any Pinot Noir fans out there that have yet to be convinced of German Pinot Noir quality should try this wine. Transparent ruby in colour, it has aromas of earthy fruits, strawberry and spice with a balsamic twist. Soft on the palate with firm acidity, it has nice mid-palate fruit with a velvet texture and a crunchy cranberry finish. The grapes were sourced from terraced vineyards on a range of soil types. The Pfalz is the driest and sunniest region in Germany and is therefore well-suited for growing Pinot Noir. Grapes were handpicked, partially destemmed and transported to open top fermenters. After an eight-day cold maceration, the juice was fermented using Burgundian yeast with regular punching down of the cap, two to three times a day. The wine was matured in French oak barrels for 12 months, one third new, one third one year old and one third two year old barrels.

photo — Gerd Stepp tasting the 2015 Pinot Noir maturing in French oak barrels

2017-2020, M7 D9 Strawberry, earthy, spices

16°C

2017-2022, M6 D9 Complex, honey, oak

8°C

Cranberry, balsamic

Apricot, vanilla, [09]

Cranberry-balsamic Cornish game hens

Honey and vanilla Pots de Crème, Roquefort

— GERMANY STEPP

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GERMANY GERMANY Bad Dürkheim

Weingut Pflüger Alexander Pflüger is the second generation at this organic and biodynamic estate, one of Germany’s first so designated. While not a member of the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP) elite group of top German producers, he is in the VDP Academy, so very definitely “one to watch”. Alexander makes great wines from Pflüger vineyards in and around Bad Dürkheim in the Pfalz. Some claim 2015 to be the vintage of the century in Germany. Alexander is a little more reserved in his commentary. It was a hot and dry growing season and harvest started early in the second week of September. The harvest was quick and intense, and Alexander strongly believes that the quality and balance of his wines is due to his biodynamic work in the vineyards.

“My father was a pioneer for Organic Cultivation in the Palatinate. To preserve our cultural landscape we went one step further in 2008 to Biodynamic Cultivation.”

photo — Alexander and his family look out over their home and winery from the Michelsberg vineyard.

— GERMANY WEINGUT PFLÜGER

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NEW

9165

PFLÜGER RIESLING BUNTSANDSTEIN, QUALITÄTSWEIN, PFALZ, 2015 Riesling $29.17

$175.00

With all the characteristics of a fine Riesling, Pflüger’s Buntsandstein 2015 is intense in colour and flavour. Aromas of limes and spice indicate it could only be Riesling. Concentrated with lime and other citrus flavours, it has a long mineral finish and serious aging potential. 2017-2025, M6 D9 Lime, spice Citrus, lime, [01] Thai Green Curry with chicken

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Michelsberg is just 4.8 hectares in Bad Dürkheim, classified by the VDP as “Grosse Lage”, one of the very best vineyard sites in Germany. The vineyard terraces face south, giving protection against frost, and the site is surrounded by sandstone walls. The soil is limestone marl and produces wines with personality and longevity. Pflüger’s 2015 Michelsberg Riesling is complex with honeyed aromas, floral notes, quince, nuts and a hint of smoke in the background. The lively palate reveals passion fruit and grapey flavours. It is medium-bodied with lively acidity and a long finish.

NEW

9166

PFLÜGER MICHELSBERG RIESLING, QUALITÄTSWEIN, PFALZ, 2015

6°C

2017-2024, M6 D8 Honey, quince, nuts

Riesling $47.17

6°C

Passion fruit, floral, [01]

$283.00

Tandoori salmon with rice and lentil pilaf

photo — Vineyards around Ungstein, as seen from the top of Michelsberg


Pflaz is the second largest wine region in Germany.

NEW

9167

PFLÜGER DÜRKHEIMER PINOT NOIR, QUALITÄTSWEIN, PFALZ, 2015 Pinot Noir $36.17

$217.00

Ruby in colour, with some brick hues around the rim, Pflüger’s 2015 Pinot Noir is an elegant, well-made wine with great balance. It has an earthy character with notes of fresh compost combined with fresh fruit. It has good palate fruit with a fine creamy texture with layers of flavour. It is a warm style more akin to Burgundy than most other German Pinot Noir. 2017-2022, M6 D9 Earthy fruits

16°C

Cherries, creamy texture Boeuf Bourguignon

photo — Alex pays attention to the flora and fauna in his vineyards in his quest to achieve biodynamic perfection.

— GERMANY WEINGUT PFLÜGER

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GERMANY GERMANY

Bechtolsheim

Weingut Ernst Bretz The Bretz family has been growing grapes in the southern part of the Rheinhessen region at Bechtolsheim for centuries. The estate grew and supplied grapes to the local convent in Mainz. Today, the family produces its own wines; Harald works the vines and his brother Horst is winemaker.

“ Our wine estate has been at the heart of our family for generations. It is the cornerstone of our shared lives and work.“

photo — The Bretz winery team, with Horst and Heike Bretz, as well as Harald Bretz directly in front of the tree

— GERMANY WEINGUT ERNST BRETZ

43


NEW

BRETZ SPÄTBURGUNDER ROSÉ FEINHERB, QBA, RHEINHESSEN, 2016

9168

Spätburgunder $118.00

$19.67

Pale pink in colour, this is a refreshing rosé produced from Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). Grown at Bechtolsheimer Petersburg on a mix of sand, limestone and clay, the grapes were picked and lightly pressed. It is light with just 11.5% alcohol, and a touch of residual sweetness that is offset by a tangy, sour cherry flavour. 2017-2018, M8 D9 Yeasty, red fruits

6°C

Crisp, sour cherry, [03] Baked goat cheese and cherry salad

9169

BRETZ GEWÜRZTRAMINER SPÄTLESE, RHEINHESSEN, 2015 Gewürztraminer $22.83

$137.00

2017-2018, M8 D9 Floral, rose petals Lemon sherbet, sweet fruit, [06] Laska with shrimp

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CELLAR 249 — MANITOBA

6°C

This is a traditional German style of wine with lower alcohol (9%) and sweetness. However, the high residual sugar (68 g/l) is not as obvious as one would expect due to the lemony zesty acidity. Only Germany somehow achieves this balance, and even there it is less common, with alcohol levels creeping up and wines becoming drier. Bretz Gewürztraminer Spätlese is elegant with floral and rose petal aromas which follow through on the palate. It has a sweet and sour impression with a sherbet lemon finish.

photo — Horst and Heike’s son, Valentin, having fun in the wine cellar


NEW

9170

BRETZ MERLOT TROCKEN, QUALITÄTSWEIN, RHEINHESSEN, 2014 Merlot $23.67

German winemakers are applying their knowledge of cool climate viticulture to red wine.

St. Laurent $142.00

$186.00

$31.00

Medium ruby in colour with spicy floral aromas, Bretz Merlot 2014 is light to medium-bodied with juicy acidity, soft tannins and a red cherry finish. Merlot was planted by Bretz over 20 years ago on loose clay soils.

Deep ruby in colour, with moody dark fruits overlaid with spicy oak, Bretz’s barrel-aged St. Laurent 2013 is supple and smooth with forest fruit flavours, vanilla and a long bitter chocolate finish. St. Laurent ripens relatively early and can produce good quality grapes grown on a range of sites, hence it is currently in demand in Germany, as the boom for red wine production continues.

2017-2019, M8 D9

2017-2022, M6 D9

Lavender, spice

photo — Bretz’s main estate Bechtolsheimer Petersberg with mineral soils and lime content

9171

BRETZ ST. LAURENT, IM BARRIQUE GEREIFT, QUALITÄTSWEIN, RHEINHESSEN, 2013

16°C

Dark fruits, spicy oak

18°C

Red cherries

Forest fruits, vanilla, bitter chocolate

Rosemary veal tenderloin with cherry chutney

Beef goulash

— GERMANY WEINGUT ERNST BRETZ

45


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AUSTRIA AUSTRIA

Breitenbrunn

Höpler Burgenland

It’s not always easy being a vigneron. Just when you think you are out of the woods, Mother Nature can hit hard. On two consecutive nights on April 28th and 29th, 2016, temperatures in Breitenbrunn dropped to -3°C and -5°C. The vines, which had enjoyed warm spring temperatures until then, sprouting shoots with verve, lay limp and brown. Vines are resilient. It wasn’t enough to kill them off, but crop levels were significantly affected. Subsequently, summer and autumn conditions were ideal, allowing Christof Höpler the freedom to pick each grape variety as it ripened. The wines are ripe and balanced with the elegance of the Höpler style.

“ It takes time. It takes passion. And it requires sensitivity. Our wines grow and mature in harmony, develop strong characters, and find their own identity.“

photo — The sound room at Höplers’ winery

— AUSTRIA HÖPLER

47


9172

HÖPLER GRÜNER VELTLINER, QUALITÄTSWEIN, BURGENLAND, 2016 Grüner Veltliner $27.67

CELLAR 249 — MANITOBA

HÖPLER PINOT BLANC, QUALITÄTSWEIN, BURGENLAND, 2016 Pinot Blanc

$166.00

$31.00

$186.00

Christof’s Grüner Veltliner 2016 just radiates elegance and fruit. Aromas of green apples and pear drops are complemented by a hint of fennel. This is a smooth wine, light to medium in body, with a crisp finish and fresh fruit salad character. Grüner Veltliner grapes were picked by hand between September 22nd and September 30th and the wine bottled in December with a screwcap to capture freshness.

Equally smooth as the Grüner Veltliner, but slightly less aromatic, Höpler Pinot Blanc displays white fruits and citrus notes. After pressing, the juice was fermented in tank with just a smidgeon of oak used to add some weight.

2017-2019, M8 D9

2017-2018, M8 D9

Floral, green apples, fennel

48

9173

6°C

White fruits

6°C

Melons, pears, apples, [00]

Stone fruit, pears, smooth, elegant, [01]

Smoked salmon tartare with arugula and wasabi mayo

Angel hair pasta with crab and country ham


9174

HÖPLER CHARDONNAY LANDWEIN, BURGENLAND, 2016 Chardonnay $34.17

HÖPLER RIESLING, QUALITÄTSWEIN, BURGENLAND, 2016 Riesling

$205.00

$34.67

$208.00

This is a fresh pure style of Chardonnay with no use of oak. White fruits and pears flavours, with a soft smooth palate and crisp lemon acidity, make this a very moreish wine. It was fermented in stainless steel tanks at low temperature, leaving a touch of residual sugar to balance the natural acidity.

Pale in colour, with a spicy Riesling nose, green apples and lime, Christof has produced a wine with great poise and balance. It is medium-bodied with a fresh, marked citrus acidity giving a long finish. It has the potential for some keeping and will develop a nice spicy smoky character.

2017-2019, M8 D9

2017-2020, M7 D9

Pears, white fruits

photo — Lake Neusiedl as seen from the Höpler vineyards

9175

6°C

Green apples, lime

Smooth, crisp acidity, [01]

Crisp acidity, spicy finish, [01]

Bay scallop chowder

Lobster ravioli

6° C

— AUSTRIA HÖPLER

49


9176

HÖPLER ROSÉ CÉLESTIA, QUALITÄTSWEIN, BURGENLAND, 2016 Pinot Noir, St. Laurent, Blaufränkisch $28.67

The St. Laurent grape is perfectly suited to the Austrian climate.

$172.00

This is a seriously delicious rosé produced from Pinot Noir, St. Laurent and Blaufränkisch. Célestia 2016 is a complex wine with layers of flavours; herbal fruits, strawberry leaf and spice. The palate is firm with emerging flavours of fresh green apples and sour cranberries. Each grape variety was picked separately by hand between September 15th and October 5th and directly pressed, producing a pale pink colour, and fermented at low temperature.

9177

HÖPLER “ERWEIN” ST. LAURENT, QUALITÄTSWEIN, BURGENLAND, 2013 St. Laurent $34.17

$205.00

The St. Laurent grape is believed to have originated in Austria. Its resistance to winter frosts and mid-ripening make it suitable for the northern climates of Austria and Germany; who knows, maybe one day it will be famous in Canada. The tradition in the Höpler family is to name the first born male Erwein. The 2013 St. Laurent Erwein is showing nice plummy and red fruits with spicy cigar box aromas. Soft and elegant on the palate, it has a fine texture with layers of flavours and a long cherry and cream finish. The grapes were picked by hand on October 8th, fermented and the wine matured for 18 months in used oak barrels.

2017-2018, M8 D9 Complex, spice, herbal fruits

6°C

Strawberries, fresh green apples, cranberries, [01] Cranberry walnut chicken salad

2017-2022, M6 D9 Plums, red fruits, cigar box

18°C

Cherries, vanilla, cream Pan-seared venison with rosemary and dried cherries

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photo — The quiet and unique setting in the courtyard of Höpler’s wine estate


Eiswein is not produced every year – it is entirely up to Mother Nature.

9178

HÖPLER EISWEIN, PRÄDIKATSWEIN, BURGENLAND, 2015 Grüner Veltliner $63.67

$382.00

Eiswein is not made every year, and can only be done so when Mother Nature creates the right conditions. Produced from the great 2015 vintage, Christof left a small plot of Grüner Veltliner unpicked and kept his fingers crossed. Dry and cold conditions prevented the grapes from rotting and harvest finally took place in January, when temperatures dropped to -10°C. At -7°C grapes start to freeze, forming little ice crystals inside the berry. Water in grape juice freezes before the sugars, so that as the grapes are pressed, a highly concentrated sweet juice is obtained, which is fermented to give a wine bright in colour with intense honeyed fruits. The relatively light alcohol at 10% and fresh natural acidity counterbalance the wine’s syrupy sweetness, giving it a light character with lingering flavours of apricots, honey and nuts. 2017-2024, M6 D8 Honey, earthy

6°C

Apricot, complex, [09] Goose liver terrine with toasted baguette, Honey and apricot trifle with walnuts, Cambozola

photo — Höpler uses state-of-the-art methods to produce their wines.

— AUSTRIA HÖPLER

51


Our Programs Opimian offers three wine programs: Discovery, Select Plus and Founders’ Choice. All three showcase great value for money wines, yet they do suit somewhat different interests. Whether you decide to embark on an exploratory journey or want to enjoy a more premium selection, the process stays the same. You don’t have to worry about deadlines or ordering procedures since Opimian automatically places an order on your behalf with every new Cellar Offering. Your preferred payment will be used, then your wine is shipped and you will receive a Pick Up Notice indicating where to pick it up. Visit Opim.ca for more information.

Eager to learn your way around the world of wine or simply enjoy a selection of bottles for everyday drinking? The Discovery program has it all. Over the course of the year, members enrolled in this program receive one mixed case of six bottles from a featured supplier per cellar offering. These wines are all for immediate drinking so you can indulge in one or two the moment they get to you. Whether you’re new to Opimian or fancy hopping on an introductory tour of the world of wine, we recommend this route.

Delve into a versatile selection of bottles and explore the four corners of the world of wine. This program features both early drinkability and mid-term aging potential bottles so you can enjoy some now and lay the others down. Throughout the year, Select Plus members receive one mixed case of six bottles per Cellar Offering. These wines may all be enjoyed young but will benefit from some maturing time. The ideal program for those who wish to expand their horizons and refine their palate one bottle at a time.

A collector’s dream. Dedicated to the spirit of our Founders, this program presents only the finest wines our very own Master of Wine Jane Masters has handpicked and tasted over the past year. The wines featured here are exclusive to this program and don’t appear on our Cellar Offerings. Made up of six bottles of a premium wine with a dedicated back label and a special message with tasting notes from the producer, each of the cases you will receive represents the very best our producers have to offer. These bottles offer long-term aging potential so you might want to free up space in that cellar … or start building one. The Founders’ Choice supplier for this cellar offering is Avenue.

www.opim.ca opim@opim.ca

#420 - 5165 Sherbrooke West, Montreal QC H4A 1T6 T: 514-483-5551 or 800-361-9421 F: 514-481-9699


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