Restaurant review

FITTING THE BILL FOR ‘NEW NORMAL’ DINING

Curfews can actually be a recipe for success as SO Magazine discovered when she dined at Bill’s in Tunbridge Wells last month

When the 10pm national chain each one of their tempting treats on their brunch, kids closure of pubs branches feels pretty unique and the and all-day offerings. On the latter it’s and restaurants Tunbridge Wells one is no different. predominantly gourmet grub classics was introduced such as burgers and grilled steaks but last month by the there’s also a sprinkling of more exotic government in order to help stem the number of rising coronavirus cases We had our dishes including miso glazed salmon and mojo marinated chicken skewers. many had doubts it would work. But temperatures taken, There’s a decent showing of both as I discovered on a visit to Bill’s in Tunbridge Wells a couple of weeks filled in the track and vegetarian and vegan dishes too, so something to pretty much suit ago, if you are well organised it can trace, and once we were everyone’s tastebuds. For our starters I actually result in a more intimate and enjoyable experience… given the all clear we decide to go for my personal favourite of Crispy Calamari (£6.95) which is were ushered to our presented in a cast iron pan and First impressions: On entering Bill’s, which is located on intimate booth table comes loaded with chillies and spring onions as well as a piquant mayo to Lime Hill Road in the centre of further turbo charge it. Needless to Tunbridge Wells, my guest and I had say, the golden rings of hot gently our temperatures taken, filled in the We loved its quirky décor which battered squid disappear sharpish! My track and trace form and once we includes a mix of vintage chandeliers and guest goes for the more unusual were given the all clear we were oversized pleated printed lampshades sounding Tuna Tacos (£7.95). ushered to our intimate booth table, suspended from a corrugated ceiling, Generous and pretty as a picture to safely distanced from any other diners. smart colourful leather button back look at, the slivers of delicate seared We were told by our friendly, banquettes, scrubbed wooden tables, raw tuna steak come perched on attentive waiter we could remove our oversized statement plants and an array shards of blue tortilla chips and are masks and that we’d only need to of eye-catching objets d’art festooned on anointed with droplets of crème wear them to and from the toilet. He bespoke shelving. In short it feels super fraîche, a sprinkling of coriander and also pointed over to a bottle of hand chic and yet cosy too. sesame seeds with nuggets of perfectly sanitiser we could use which was ripe avocado and a few super sweet sitting among the cruets and glinting Under starters orders: cherry tomatoes liberally scattered. retro heavy crystal votive candles. The menus at Bill’s are as eclectic as The tuna is melt-in-the-mouth

Despite the fact that Bill’s is a the décor with a smorgasbord of delicious and the accompanying ingredients provide pleasing textural and taste contrasts. My guest says he would definitely order this again.

The main event:

To follow I choose the pan fried sea bass (£16.45) as I’ve tried it before and love how simply it’s cooked yet that it still packs a mighty flavour punch thanks to the coriander, avocado, tomato and lime as its supporting act. My guest meanwhile, after much deliberation having witnessed the Bill’s Classic Burger (£11.95) being transported to another table in all its generously stacked, cheese, slaw and fried onion oozing glory, decides that actually he won’t revert to type and therefore goes for the Supergreen chicken curry (£13.75) instead. It’s aptly named as when it arrives it looks positively verdant thanks to its melange of sugar snap peas, courgette and spinach sliced around the tenderest of chicken breasts. The bright red chillies, dome of fragrant coconut rice and sculptural rice cracker balanced on top of the latter all add to the wow factor – both taste and looks wise – of this dish. Another tasty triumph…

Finishing post

When it comes to portion sizes, Bill’s definitely doesn’t skimp. So when we’re presented with dessert menus it’s hard to think that another morsel

will pass our lips. But after having read the sweet selection on offer it’s hard to resist the sound of warm, salted caramel coated donuts served with sliced bananas, crumbled chocolate and whipped cream (£6.50). One spoonful of this moreish confection is pure heaven – although my guest says that his choice of Bill’s Chocolate Flowerpot (£7.50) gives it a run for its money

thanks to firstly its outstanding presentation, and then the fact that the passionfruit cheesecake buried in the chocolate ‘flowerpot soil’ tastes absolutely sublime. As our spoons duel over the last remaining bites of one another’s puds we’re politely reminded that the Covid bewitching hour of 10pm is approaching and that we will have to depart the premises soon. It’s done with an air of calm and despite it being a Friday night there’s no great stampede to leave. Each table’s exit has been cleverly staggered so you feel relaxed and confident. And if this is the shape of things to come for right now then I have to say that Bill’s has a pretty good handle on it.

www.bills-website.co.uk

FAMILY DINING TIME AT ONE WARWICK PARK BISTRO

Let us take care of everything including the washing up! We are now offering family dining early evenings from 5.30-7pm Thursday, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays 12-3.30pm.

Enjoy two adult main meals plus two courses for two children for £35

Please visit our website www.onewarwickparkhotel.com To reserve a table please 01892 520587 to view menus

TS&CS APPLY: Excludes Sunday roasts, afternoon teas and cannot be used conjunction with any other offer