IWFS Wine & Food Gazette February 2019

FEBRUARY 2019

INSIDE

• Event Report: A French Creole Holiday Wine Dinner • Gigondas: Little brother to Châteauneuf-du-Pape?

• Blast from the Past • Upcoming Omaha Branch Events

IWFS QUÉBEC GREAT WEEKEND THURSDAY 9-27-2018, DAY 2: CULINARY TOUR AND DINNER AT LE-SAINT AMOUR

A publication of the Omaha Branch of the International Wine and Food Society

G

President's Comments

reetings all! We were having a problem where the Gazette photos were dropping off those of you who opened the PDF on your iPhones. Android phones and desktops did not seem to have a problem. This seemed to be associated with reducing the strength of the PDF so it could load faster and not tie up your email. Thanks to Omaha Magazine and Todd Lemke, with this issue we are upgrading to issuu.com. You will now have a stronger, sharper image, and you can click to change the page, like e-magazines do. Thank you, Todd, for helping us be more user friendly and professional.

Attendance was up for our Holiday event at Happy Hollow Club in December. 87 attended, but we still had no response from 46 members. Please respond even if you are not coming.

Along with your comments why you were unable to attend, this greatly helps out the event producer. Chef Jason Hughes always does an outstanding job, made even more challenging with such a large number of people. As always, In the Moment Band had people out on the dance floor. Read Duke Matz’s event report within.

Longtime Omaha Branch photographer Ron Policky was awarded a certificate of appreciation at the December event. Ron has been taking pictures for twenty years, starting in the age of film and progressing to the digital age. He sacrifices his mingle / get reacquainted time documenting attendees, the wines, and the food with photos for our Gazette and web site. This definitely cuts into one’s enjoyment of the party, as I so vividly know from my own experience. Especially when you have a group of 87, it really helps to have an extra photographer. Thanks so much for your dedication, Ron. The Branch and its members appreciate your efforts.

The Québec Great Weekend continues with Day 2. The day started with a culinary walking tour through the vieux quartier, and ended up with dinner at Le Saint Amour, one of the city’s best restaurants. This time the article is written by Wayne Markus, the second part of our tag team of attendees. Connie and Gary Martin wrote Part 1 and will do Part 3.

Cheers!

Tom Murnan

Tom Murnan Cover photo: A scene from Québec old city by Wayne Markus 9/27/2018.

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“If you think nobody cares if you’re alive, try missing a couple of car payments.”

- From The Best of the Cockle Bur compiled and edited by Harry B Otis, 3rd President 1973-1974

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Event

Report:

A FRENCH CREOLE HOLIDAY WINE DINNER Written By Duke Matz / Photos by Tom Murnan & Ron Policky

T

he Omaha Branch Holiday Wine Dinner is always a special affair with formal attire, exceptional cuisine matched with superb wines, and musical entertainment. This year’s event was the ninth year in a row the Holiday event was held at Happy Hollow Club.

Eighty-seven members, spouses and guests were treated to another exquisite five-course menu prepared by Happy Hollow’s executive chef, Jason Hughes, who was tasked with infusing the meal with French Creole flavors borne of his Southern roots. Chef Jason was aided by a large corps of kitchen assistants and service staff.

To begin the night, attendees were presented with a glass of Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée (WS94/JS92/JD93) and then served a selection of quaffing wines from the Omaha Branch cellar. All the while enjoying Fried Gulf Oyster Spoons with cucumber relish and spicy remoulade; Duck Rillette Crostini with David’s pickled cherries, Osetra caviar, gaufrette potato, crème fraiche and chives; and St. Andre and Apricot Tarts.

After quaffing, the group was served the first course of Shellfish Bisque Endome, which included Royal Red shrimp, Nantucket bay scallops, Maine lobster, chervil, sherry veloute and covered with puff pastry. Paired with a 2014 La Chablisienne Chablis Grand Cru Valmur (WA93), it was a charming beginning to an elegant meal.

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The second course consisted of Braised Truebridge Farms Pork Cheeks with corn maque choux, haricot verts and Jon’s Natural smoked ham hock jus.

The 2010 Michel Gay & Fils Vieilles Vignes Beaune-Coucherias Premier Cru (WS92) was an excellent pinot noir from Burgundy to accompany the course.

The third course was a Creole Mustard and Herb Crusted Strauss Farms Lamb Rack, with Geechie Boy Mills cornbread and andouille dressing, apple mint relish and rosemary jus. The lamb rack was paired with the 2012 Domaine Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Tradition (WS92/WA94). The herbal nature of the seasonings, along with the Creole mustard and andouille flavors called for this delightful Southern Rhone wine. >

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A publication of the Omaha Branch of the International Wine and Food Society

Continued....

< The last entrée course consisted of a Pepper Seared Imperial Farms Wagyu Beef Strip Loin, adorned with winter black truffle potato pave, tourneed baby carrots, fried Cipollini onion rings and marchand de vin sauce. The course was paired with a couple of Pauillacs from two of the best recent vintages in Bordeaux; the 2005 Château Duhart Milon Rothschild (WS93/WA93) and the 2010 Château Clerc Milon Pauillac (WS94/ WA93). Both were exceptional choices for the beef and truffle flavors.

The dessert course was a Bananas Foster Pain Perdu, consisting of Brioche French toast, house churned cinnamon ice cream, bruleed bananas and spiced rum caramel sauce. The dessert was served with a sweet Château Rieussec Sauternes 2010 (WS94/WA96) to conclude a wondrous meal.

The evening was capped by dancing to the music of, “In The Moment,” featuring Ed “Smoove Grooves” Archibald whose jazz sounds have been a reliable complement at the Holiday Wine Dinner for the past nine years.

Our personal thanks and compliments to Chef Jason Hughes and Happy Hollow Club and its staff. Again, this event continues to complete the Omaha Branch year of events with a culinary delight of exquisite food, wonderfully paired wines and festive entertainment.

The evening was capped by dancing to the music of, “In The Moment,” featuring Ed “Smoove Grooves” Archibald whose jazz sounds have been a reliable complement at the Holiday Wine Dinner for the past nine years.

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IWFS Québec Great Weekend Thursday 9-27-2018, Day 2:

Culinary Tour and Dinner at Le-Saint Amour Written By Wayne Markus / Photos by Wayne Markus

Pascal Dubois explained that, compared to ice cream, gelato has less cream but tastes creamier, is made with little or no egg yolk, has less air because it is churned at a slower speed, and frozen at a higher temperature allowing more flavor to be tasted.

uébec was originally occupied by the indigenous Algonquin Indians. French explorers, fur trappers, and Roman Catholic missionaries arrived, and the city was founded in 1608. The Algonquin word kébec, meaning “where the river narrows,” is the origin of the name.

Canada was derived from “Kanata” the Huron-Iroquois word meaning village or settlement. It was ruled by the French until 1754, by the British until 1867, then and now by self-rule as a member of the British Commonwealth.

Thursday, the second day of the IWFS Great Weekend in Old Québec City, we broke into small groups for a culinary tour of Québec City. It included six restaurants followed by lunch at Chez Muffy. We were taken by coach to the first site then walked to the others ending with lunch. Our group visited five of the six. Most of the restaurants are small and unique.

Tutto Gelato was founded in 1998

by Italian Giocomo Donati. His friend Pascal Dubois has owned and managed it for 10 years. He has a passion for Gelato made in the authentic Italian style. He explained that, compared to ice cream, gelato has less cream but tastes creamier, is made with little or no egg yolk, has less air because it is churned at a slower speed, and frozen at a higher temperature allowing more flavor to be tasted. Some of this was verified by Bosch’s 14-year-old daughter on the current Amazon Prime hit “Bosch,” when she re-directed their father-daughter ice cream visit to gelato. Several samples were tasted, the favorites varied. I preferred the coconut gelato with its slightly crunchy texture. Meringue gelato was a favorite. Two were intensely flavored and lactose-free, made with rice milk, so probably not authentic gelato.

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Tournebroche is a farm-to-table restaurant with beehives on the roof.

Two honeycombs are near the door and guests are welcome to scoop the honey and taste. The chef, Stéphane Roth, is from Jura, France and after working in several European restaurants he came to Canada to the Patriarch, a five-diamond restaurant. He and partners founded Tournebroch as a rotisserie.

They are largely organic and green and can provide for vegans. Their garden, about an hour away, provides 65% of their food. We sampled a local Québec deep-fried Grondines, cheese fondant with homemade panko crust and honey from the roof. It was served with Vin Blanc Les Petit Cailloux, a local blend of the hybrids Prairie Star and St. Pépin. It is a light white wine similar to Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. Prairie Star was hybridized in Minnesota and is planted by a few Nebraska wineries.

LUZZ (luminescence or light in Spanish) is difficult to describe, very millennial or Generation Z. Our host, one of the owners, was a young lady with multiple tattoos and hair clipped short who spent time in Mexico then came back to Québec City and started LUZZ. She describes the restaurant as “Multi-cuisine.” A barista bar up front serves various coffee drinks and smoothies. We were served a drink with a long list of ingredients including cassis that did not sound like anything one would order, but was very good. Some had two. It was served with a canapé-like morsel with fruits and mushrooms on bread, but very tasty. In keeping with LUZZ the salt and pepper shakers were in the shape of light bulbs. >

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A publication of the Council Bluffs Branch of the International Wine and Food Society

< Restaurant 23 on the 23rd floor of the building that houses the Hilton Hotel has a wonderful view of the Château Frontenac, La Citadelle, and the Saint Lawrence River. We were served Foie Gras on a spoon and Tomato with Mozzarella on a spoon along with Ruffino Prosecco Mimosas. Yum! La Ninkasi Saint-Jean is noted for their list of Québécois microbrews, wines and spirits. They also serve limited food and have a variety of entertainment including comedy, sports, karaoke, etc.

Côtes à Côtes Resto-Grill is in Quartier Petite Champlain on the Saint Lawrence River that is the oldest commercial district in North America. We walked down the steep “Breakneck Stairs” to get there. Gabriel Gosselines, a wealthy landowner, began construction of this home, now housing the Côtes à Côtes in 1683. Even those not fond of duck enjoyed the grilled duck legs and beer.

Lunch at Chez Muffy followed the culinary tour. It is listed by Relais & Chateaux. They have their own garden on the Île d’Orléans. Choices included flaked poached salmon, velvety corn soup with maple syrup, lightly seared trout, chicken breast and grilled beef steak flank. Desert was apple dacquoise and buttermilk ice cream. After lunch several shopped and took the funicular.

Thursday and Friday dinners were at the Le-Saint Amour and Le Restaurant Initiale, both with limited seating so the members were split into two groups and alternated sites. Members had multiple discussions as to their favorite. Le-Saint Amour provided multiple flavors and textures. Le Restaurant Initiale featured one item on each plate enhanced with smaller sides and usually an edible flower. It seemed that more favored the Initiale. Connie and Gary Martin will review Le Restaurant Initiale in the next issue.

Le-Saint Amour has been rated in the top ten of Canadian traveler’s favorite restaurants. Famous guests include Sir Paul McCartney and Sting. The dining room is elegant covered by an arch of glass and hanging plants. The wall has sconces of light on a red background.

Îles de la Madeleine sea scallops, ceviche with green alder pepper, Nordic shrimps and sea buckthorn were served with 2016 Sancerre, Monte Damnés, Pierre Prieur et Fils. The crisp acidic Sancerre enhanced.

Chef Jean-Luc Boulay has great respect for the producers and farms that he sources from. According to their website he finds meaning in the beauty of colors, the joy of flavors, the delicacy of textures and the pleasure of perfumes.

These became apparent during the seven-course dinner.

Amuse en Bouch duck foie gras was covered by sea-buckthorn jelly. Also served were sesame red tuna tataki, avocado, fresh oyster on the half shell, a dollop of caviar and a small blue flower.

Champagne Bourdaire-Gallois 2007, nicely accompanied this course.

Seared foie gras with crispy hazelnut tile and natural jus was accompanied by two fresh grapes macerated with Armagnac. The grapes were tasty, but not sure

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they matched. The 1990 Vouvray Moelleux, a sweet Chenin Blanc by François Pinon paired well. Îles de la Madeleine sea scallops, ceviche with green alder pepper, Nordic shrimps and sea buckthorn were served with 2016 Sancerre, Monte Damnés, Pierre Prieur et Fils. The crisp acidic Sancerre enhanced. Sea Buckthorn is a small red tart berry, similar to a cranberry that is local to Québec.

A Québec lobster course with Gaspesian algae (seaweed), and wild mushroom bouillon was served with Burgundy Pinot Noir from Cotês de Nuit, 2013 Marsannay from cult-like Domaine Joseph Roty.

The chef felt that with the slightly salty seaweed and mushroom flavor made for an Asian fusion character that the red Burgundy would match. Sid Cross commented on the pairing in the IWFS Blog “…had some merit with the earthy mushrooms, but did not quite work…”

I thought the pairing was good, but do not have Sid Cross’s nose.

Next came farm raised red deer, pheasant mousseline dressed in red cabbage, Grand Veneur sauce, and peppery green Alder Mikado. While the deer and pheasant were mildly gamey, their textures were different. A full-bodied wine was called for, and the 2011 La Magia Brunello di Montalcino filled that need.

A course of fine cheeses paired with Hydromel, Or d’âge, a blend of 9 and 14-year-old, from Apicole Desrochers in Québec. Hydromel is “water-honey,” actually mead or honey wine. It is sweet containing 76 g/dL sugar. The total production was 279 bottles.

Dessert was “Contrasts and Textures of Chocolate” with Taylor Fladgate, 20-year Tawny Port. This was a chocolate lovers delight.

Following dinner we walked back to the Frontenac and many went to the bar for libations.

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Saint Cosme Chapel

Gigondas:

Little brother to Châteauneuf-du-Pape?

F

or the President’s Event on April 14, 2019, I am going to continue the Rhone Ranger theme with Rhone Ranger IV: An Evening with Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

One of the wines will be a Saint Cosme Gigondas. Most people don’t have the slightest idea of what Gigondas is. Located just 15 miles from the village of Châteauneufdu-Pape (CduP), the terroir of the two Appellations couldn’t be more different.

While CduP is located in a valley, near the banks of the Rhône River and lower altitude, Gigondas sits on elevated ground, near the Dentelles de Montmirail. These jagged “lace” (dentelles) limestone elevations are a mountain range that separate the AOC into three climates: a flat plain of gravel and clay to the west where temperatures are the hottest and yield big heavy wines; a sand and gravel area east of the village; and hillside vineyards on the slopes of the mountains. Altitudes there range from 900 to 1200 feet, and

by Tom Murnan

planted. In 1592, a white wine from Gigondas was mentioned, but white wines are forbidden now. The area overwhelmingly produces red wine, predominantly from Grenache, but a little rosé is The Dentelles de Montmirail also made. AOC rules say that no more than 80% soils are splintered rock and limestone.

Grenache can be used, but a minimum Good wines can come from any of the of 15% Syrah and/ or Mouvedre must three microclimates. Temperatures in be in the mix, with a maximum of 10% Gigondas are higher than those in CduP. of the other Rhône varietals (but not Gigondas is an ancient wine growing Carignan). Grenache, when yields are area. It gets its name from a corruption of low, produces raisin and raspberry tastes. the Latin, jocunditas, which means great Mouvedre needs heat to ripen, which pleasure or enjoyment. Retired Roman the appellation supplies, and provides Second Legion soldiers would build villas gamey, leather and animal notes. there, plant olive trees and vines, and Being so close to CduP, Gigondas enjoy some relaxation around the vilwas suppressed by CduP’s Baron Leroy lage of Jocunditas. Archeological finds in of Château Fortia and founder of the the area have turned up a Bacchus head, Appellation Controllée (AOC) system indicating an area where the vine was in 1936, who must have viewed them as Page 28 · 2019 ·

competition. In 1894 a Gigondas wine won a gold medal at the agricultural fair in Paris, and like CduP was used to reinforce thin Burgundies until the start of World War II. A bitter winter in 1956 killed off a lot of the olive trees, leading to a renaissance of Gigondas wine, and in 1971 they finally got their own AOC designation. Their previous Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC was not prestigious, making it hard to sell their wines for more money.

The Barruols have owned their vineyards since 1570. The winery lies on the site of a Gallo-Roman villa. The winery still uses the Roman cellars.

The appellation has a reputation for making rustic wines with heavy tannins, in a similar winemaking style as CduP, using extended skin maceration. But lately, change has been made at the top estates. Probably the leader is Louis Barruol, whose Château St. Cosme estate is leading the charge for quality.

The Barruols have owned their vine-

yards since 1570. The winery lies on the site of a Gallo-Roman villa.

The winery still uses the Roman cellars. The soil is a clay limestone mix.

In an elevated valley, his vineyards lose two hours of sunlight a day as the sun climbs over the Dentelles. This serves to slow down ripening, which gives riper tannins and lower sugar levels. He uses organic methods and has experimented with biodynamics. One of his vineyards has a 12th century chapel dedicated to Saints Côme and Damien (Cosmas and Damien) Greek physicians and Christians. Barruol uses the stems in fermentation, possibly because the slow ripening turns the green, bitter stems into brown ripened ones. This gives the wine a spicy elegance. Besides Château St. Cosme, other important producers are Pierre Amadieu, Domaine les Pallières, (owned

by Ch. Vieux Telegraph and Kermit Lynch), Des Tourelles (Ch Beaucastel), Domaine Santa Duc, Domaine Brusset, and Domaine des Bosquets. There are quite a number more. The top wines are becoming more elegant and refined, losing the powerful, rustic, fiery style of the old days.

It is interesting to see Gigondas coming into its own, blossoming and getting out from under the shadow of big brother Châteauneuf-du Pape. Little brother seems to be growing up.

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Village of Gigondas and vines

SOURCES: Wikipedia; www.winespectator.com/ magazine/show/id/49057; www.winespectator.com/magazine/ show/id/57067; www.saintcosme.com/index.html Robert M. Parker Jr. Wines of the Rhone Valley Revised and Expanded Edition 1997.

IMAGE SOURCES: www.tripnbike.com/place/ dentelles-de-montmirail www.saintcosme.com/media_en.php www.amazon.com.br/WineRhone-Valley-Revised-Expanded/ dp/0684800136

blast from

the past

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UPCOMING OMAHA BRANCH EVENTS

Mark Your Calendars!

FEB.

10

MAR.

24

APR.

14

COUPLES

Flatiron Cafe Valentine’s Day Producers: Todd Lemke & Steve Hipple

STAG

801 Grille Theme: The Road Less Traveled Producer: John Matthews

COUPLES

Le Bouillon Rhône Ranger IV: An Evening with Châteauneuf-du-Pape Producer: Tom Murnan

HOSTING AN EVENT? Let us know when, where and a little bit about what’s going on! We would love to include YOUR event on the calendar! Email details to: murnantom@gmail.com

February 2019

Purpose: To meet communication and service needs, to broaden participation and understand and to be an information exchange for the membership of The International Wine & Food Society in the Americas.

Publisher: Todd Lemke Editor: Tom Murnan Graphic Designer: Mady Besch

The International Wine & Food Society of London, England Omaha, Nebraska Branch - Executive Committee This Quick Response Code (QR-Code) can be scanned with a scanner app on your smart phone to take the reader directly to the Omaha Branch web site.

PR ESI DEN T: Tom Murnan............................................... murnantom@gmail.com V ICE PR ESI DEN T / SECR ETA RY: Mark Stokes.............. mark_stokes@aig.com T R E ASU R ER: Les Zanotti................................................ zanol@cox.net W I N E CELLA R M AST ER: Les Zanotti............................ zanol@cox.net M EM BERSH I P CH A I R M A N: Duke Matz........................ dmatz@darland.com

B OA R D O F D I R E C T O R S :

Derek Burdeny

John Matthews

Tad Singer

Lowell Wilhite

Steve Hipple

Duke Matz

Mark Stokes

Mike Wilke

Todd Lemke

Tom Murnan

Dave Thrasher

Les Zanotti

KEEP IN TOUCH! Please notify Club President, Tom Murnan, 402.740.4802 or via email at murnantom@gmail.com to let him know if you are interested in hosting an IWFS event.

ANNOUNCEMENTS FOR THE MEMBERS WILL BE POSTED ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER. Like us on FACEBOOK (IWFSOmaha): facebook.com/IWFSOmaha and follow us on TWITTER (IWFSOmaha): twitter.com/IWFSOmaha All versions of Wine & Food Gazette are published monthly by Omaha Magazine, LTD, P.O. Box 461208, Omaha, NE 68046-1208. Telephone: (402) 884-2000. No whole or part of the contents herein may be reproduced without prior written permission of Omaha Magazine, excepting individually copyrighted articles and photographs. Unsolicited manuscripts are accepted however no responsibility will be assumed for such solicitations. The opinions expressed in this publication, except as specifically stated to the contrary, are solely the opinion of the author and do no necessarily represent the views of the Board of Governors of the Americas. The International Wine & Food Society, LTD., the publisher and any officer, director, member or agent thereof. The international Wine & Food Society does not endorse advertisersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; products and is not responsible for damages incurred from the use of such products nor does it guarantee such products.