JANUARY 2021
Event Report
BORDEAUX BASH 2.0 A STAG EVENT AT 801 CHOPHOUSE
ALSO INSIDE • Winery Profile: Spottswoode Winery • Blast from the Past: Back to Our Roots at the Cottonwood • Upcoming Omaha Branch Events
A publication of the Omaha Branch of the International Wine and Food Society
G
reetings to all and Happy New Year!
Let’s just say 2020 was a very difficult and strange year and we all hope and pray that 2021 makes up for it. To all of the members that were impacted personally by COVID, I hope you and your loved ones are doing better and have fully recovered. It was a disappointing year for our members as we had to cancel many great events in 2020. Our Holiday event in December was especially painful as it is one our largest and most anticipated events of the year. I am, however, very excited and looking forward to all of the events in 2021. I want to give a special thanks to my fellow Omaha Board members for their dedication and commitment in 2020. Some of the Board members put a lot of effort in organizing events just to have them canceled with very short notice. The Board concentrated time and effort in 2020 in updating and creating a long term plan for the Club’s wine Cellar and I have to say they did an outstanding job. Thanks to Duke Matz, Mike Wilke, Dave Thrasher and Joe Goldstein for serving on the Wine Committee. Also a very special thanks to Les Zanotti for serving as our Cellar Master for the past several decades. Let’s all hope with the vaccinations arriving our lives get back to somewhat normal in 2021. The one good thing about being in quarantine for the last ten months is we all had a good reason to enjoy our own cellars. Cheers and here’s to a new year! Cheers!
Mark Stokes It was a deathbed scene, but the director was not satisfied with the hero’s acting. “Come on” he cried. “Put more life into your dying.” From The Best of the Cockle Bur compiled and edited by Harry B Otis, 3rd President 1973-1974
Cover Photo: 801 Chophouse Golden Cow by Tom Murnan
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A publication of the Omaha Branch of the International Wine and Food Society
CORNER
EDITOR’S
I
t has been a long time since we visited 801 Chophouse, located inside the Paxton Hotel in downtown Omaha. 801 Restaurant Group is a small chain that began in 1993. Besides Omaha, they have branches in Des Moines, St. Louis, Leawood, Kansas City, and Denver. They also have Pig & Finch Gastropub, and 801 Fish. We had been going to Mahogany Prime for 7 years, but this year Derek Burdeny did not want to compromise his job as a physician due to the Corona Virus, so Dave Thrasher picked up the baton. Mahogany’s always had great food, but its seating arrangement was so broken up that everyone could not sit at larger tables. Many members were sitting with just one other member. COVID had a silver lining for our Branch as the restaurant was open for us on a Sunday night. The seating arrangement in the main dining room was spacious and much more satisfactory. Read about the event within.
The November 8th stag had a sit down tasting of what has become our traditional Bordeaux vs. California Cabernet Sauvignon show down. We always throw a Bordeaux First Growth into the mix. This year we compared 2001 Château Mouton Rothschild and 2005 Château Lascombes to California upstarts 2009 Spottswoode and 2013 Caymus cabs. So, for our Winery Profile, I selected Spottswoode for you to become more familiar with their winery and production. The 2009 Spottswood received a perfect 100 points from the Wine Advocate. Unfortunately, our December Midwest Holiday Wine Dinner Dream at Happy Hollow Club had to be cancelled. COVID cases had peaked in the city, and many members did not want to risk infection. 2021 is the 50th year since our founding as a Branch of the IWFS. It coincides with the remodeling and reopening of the Kimpton Cottonwood Hotel, in the former Blackstone Hotel. Read the story herein. It was in the magnificent old ballroom on the top floor of the Blackstone where the new Branch had its first formal dinner with the ladies. Todd Lemke and Mike Wilke have arranged to have a 50th Formal Dinner, utilizing the original menu, in the newly remodeled Cottonwood. They have also reached out to the Council Bluffs Branch and invited them to the Formal. Let’s have a good showing for our 50th anniversary as we go back to our roots at the old Blackstone. And, as an added benefit, if you belong to both clubs, you can save money by attending just one combined event.
Some members have had trouble reading the Gazette on issuu.com, Or, they don’t want to sign in, which means you can’t even read the Gazette at all. They prefer a PDF since all you have to do is click it open. We have decided to offer it in both formats. In your email, a PDF will be sent along with the issuu.com link. The advantage of issuu.com is that you can see both right and left pages, like a paper magazine. Our PDF only lets you view one page at a time. Cheers!
Tom Murnan “Even a fool, when he holdeth his peace, is counted wise.” PROVERB From The Best of the Cockle Bur compiled and edited by Harry B Otis, 3rd President 1973-1974
January 2021 · Page 3
A publication of the Omaha Branch of the International Wine and Food Society
event report
BORDE AUX B A SH 2.0 - A S TAG E V EN T AT 8 01 Story by Dave Thrasher // Photos by Tom Murnan & Ron Policky
A
fter many years hosting the “Burdeny Bordeaux Bash” at Mahogany Steakhouse in November, we decided to take a similar theme to a new venue and moved the event to 801 Chophouse. We changed up the event this year for two reasons. First, because Derek Burdeny is a medical doctor, he hasn’t been able to attend events due to COVID. Secondly, the board of directors also decided after the event last year that the seating arrangement at Mahogany isn’t conducive to a group of our size. Old 1882 gate at Spottswoode, originally meant for horse and carriage, We decided to carry forward Derwidened for modern autos. Photo from the Spottswoode website. ek’s theme of serving a tasting of a First Growth Bordeaux against New World Cabernet, and this year enjoyed a 2001 Château Mouton Rothschild against a 2009 Spottswoode Cabernet that was given a perfect 100 point score from Robert Parker. We also served a 2005 Château Lascombes and 2013 Caymus Cabernet to create a pairing of two Old World wines against two from the New World. Luckily, we were given the main dining room, which offered a clear and unobstructed floor space for tables. The event had a total of 48 people in attendance with around 12 guests that arrived at 5:00 pm for quaffing, where we enjoyed wines from our cellar along with a trio of Lobster Corn Dogs, Calamari Steaks and Shrimp Cocktail as appetizers. The corndogs were definitely upscale, moist and delicious. Many members thought the calamari was a heaping plate of onion rings, but no, they were much better than that and came with their own sauce. Large shrimp with cocktail sauce also added to the enjoyment. The group was seated at 5:30 for the tasting and when asked to vote for their favorite wine, the group was almost evenly split between the four wines. The tasting was followed by the first course which was a choice of Caesar or Wedge Salad that was served with a 2017 Inglenook Sauvignon Blanc. Salads are difficult to pair with wine, but I thought the Sauvignon Blanc worked relatively well with my wedge salad, and the wine itself was quite good on its own. The main course was a choice of either Filet Mignon or New York Strip served alongside Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Asparagus and Creamed Corn. Typical steak house fare, the steaks were spot on delicious prime quality meat cooked to your choice of doneness. The main course was served with a side-byside comparison of a 2008 Château Smith Haut Lafitte from the Old World and a 2012 Ramey Cabernet from the New World. Both wines were a classic pairing with steaks and while a bit on the young side, were drinking quite well. The dessert course was a New York Style Cheesecake alongside a 2009 Château Myrat Sauternes. The staff at 801 Chophouse did an exceptional job, and the food and wine were not only delicious, but everything came out in a very timely manner, making it an outstanding dining experience.
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A publication of the Omaha Branch of the International Wine and Food Society
WINERY PROFILE: SPOTTSWOODE WINERY BY TOM MURNAN
W
e were treated to a 100 point Wine Advocate Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon at our 801 Chophouse stag. It was in a 4 wine sit down tasting lineup with the likes of 2001 Château Mouton Rothschild. I was especially curious about the Spottswoode because I have never tasted one before. It comes with a high Napa Valley pedigree. It is located within the city limits of St. Helena as well as the St. Helena appellation. It is a popular walking destination from town and consists of three sections: the vineyards, the offices and the Spottswoode estate. The property was purchased in 1882 by a German immigrant, George Schonewald, who made his fortune in the hotel industry. He and his wife wanted a pastoral escape from San Francisco and in 1885 erected the
tain and the Mayacamas range. The Schonewalds established a 17 acre vineyard which they named Esmeralda. In 1884, the Schonewalds sold several acres of the Esmeralda vineyard to Franz Kraft, who build the Victorian wooden farm home and a sandstone winery. Kraft Winery raised Valdiguié (Napa Gamay) Colombard, Petit Sirah and Green Hungarian vines. Schonewald sold his property in 1906. The next owner changed the winery name from George Schonewald estate 1882 Esmeralda to Lyndenhurst in honor of a grove of Linden trees that grew Colonial Revival style residence which they on the estate. In 1910 it received the name wanted to use as their summer home. That Spottswoode from Mary Albert Spotts, who building, the stone pillared entry gate, and named it after her deceased husband. The formal gardens are still in existence today. winery has been known as Spottswoode ever The winery complex looks on the Mayasince. During Prohibition, the property was camas Mountains. It benefits from a cool used to rise frogs and snails for the restaubreeze in a gap between Spring Mounrant business, and even mushrooms in the Page 14 · 2021 ·
dark basement of the big house. When touring the winery grounds, you may see small statues of frogs, a remembrance of this era. On a Thanksgiving trip to Napa Valley in 1969, Dr. Jack and Mary Novak toured the property and fell in love with it. They purchased the 31 acre estate in 1972, and when they moved in, bought another 15 acres adjacent to the property. They paid $4,000.00 an acre. They had no idea about its potential as a vineyard. Jack, an alumni of Notre Dame, was a physician in St. Helena. A classmate of Jack was Ray Duncan. It was he who invited the Novaks to come to Napa in 1969. He eventually became co-founder of Silver Oak Cellar in 1972, the same year the Novaks started Spottswoode. > January 2021 ¡ Page 15
A publication of the Omaha Branch of the International Wine and Food Society
Mary Weber Novak, Founder
< One of the first things the Novaks did was to replant the vineyard. The grapes being raise there were from a different era and no longer popular. The new vineyard lots were primarily Cabernet Sauvignon as well as Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc. But tragedy struck five years after the estate was purchased when Dr. Jack Novak died of a heart attack at the age of 44, leaving Mary to raise 5 children, run a winery, and deal with little cash flow. Mary founded the winery in 1982 with Harmon Brown (Aril Wines on Prichart Hill), who served as president for 5 years. She also hired the renown Tony Soter to help her with the vineyard and winery. The vineyards were now about 10 years old. Their first bottling was the Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1982 vintage. He used 60% new oak barrels and a ripe, but not overripe style. In 1988, he introduced organic farming, one of the first Napa wineries to do so. In 1989, Mary purchased the old Kraft winery. Soter remained as winemaker until 1991 and consultant for another 6 years. During that time, the vineyard had to be completely replanted because the phylloxera louse attacked the AxR1 rootstock which was not louse resistant. The current mix of grapes are 30 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, 1.5 acres of Petit Verdot, 4.5 acres of Cabernet Franc and 1 acre of Sauvignon Blanc. A new winery and barrel room was completed in 1999. Other notable winemakers have been Rosemary Cakebread and Pam Starr. The vineyard is a special microclimate because of its composition of alluvial, clay loam soil, one of Spottswoode’s greatest assets. To enrich it, they plant cover crops such as vetch, peas, clover, and oats every
Beth Novak Milliken, Mary Weber Novak, and Lindy Novak
Mary Novak and Riley
fall, limit tillage, and use natural means to control weeds and insects. For example, instead of using organic or regular commercial sprays, they live with smaller weeds. Spottswoode is one of the few all female family wineries in Napa and Sonoma. Mary trained two of her daughters to work in the wine business: Beth Novak Milliken is President and CEO and Lindy Novak is Marketing Ambassador. Mary died at age 84 in 2016. Spottswood’s wine lineup includes the Estate Cabernet Sauvignon where all the fruit is sourced on the winery property. It is Page 16 · 2021 ·
characterized by ripeness and elegance in the bouquet, fine grained, firm tannins, great acidity and great balance. The Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon is made in a more supple, ready to drink style, sourced mostly from estate vineyards, but also a few other selected vineyards. The Sauvignon Blanc from the estate only makes about 200 cases. When Mary died they named the vineyard parcel after her, calling it Mary’s Block. It is only 1 acre. The website has this statement. “Great vineyard sites are rare, and part of defining them is their ability to ripen fruit that allows for a consistently extraordinary wine. Our 36 vintages of Spottswoode Cabernet are a testament to this. This is why, as Robert Parker wrote after tasting a full vertical of Spottswoode (vintages 1982–2014), ‘This tasting, which took place in August 2016, was a phenomenal look at what is truly a Napa first-growth estate.’” Indeed, Spottswoode has had its share of accolades. the Wine Advocate has awarded a perfect 100 points to the following Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon: 2002, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016 and 2018. Spottswoode has also made the Wine Spectator’s Top 100. For example, their 1985 Estate Cabernet was in the Top 10. I for one was very glad that Spottswoode was included at our Stag at 801 Chophouse. Sources: spottswoode.com; winespectator. com/articles/a-quarter-century-of-spottswoode-3429; winespectator.com/articles/ mary-weber-novak-founder-of-spottswoode-estate-dies; napawineproject.com/ spottswoode-estate-vineyard-winery/
January 2021 · Page 17
A publication of the Omaha Branch of the International Wine and Food Society
Back to Our Roots at the Cottonwood
T
he Omaha Branch of the IWFS was founded in 1971, but they called themselves the Omaha Wine and Food Society of London, England, back then. All the events were stag. On November 17th, 1972, the 2nd President, Fred Hauss, presided over an “Annual Dinner,” now called our Formal Dinner, in the ballroom of the Radisson Blackstone Hotel with the stated purpose “In Honor of the Wives of the Members in recognition of their support and tolerance” ....of all those stag events! The Branch had put themselves in the culinary hands of Irwin Siegler, who was an accomplished, European trained chef in charge of the hotel. But Erwin had also been a supporter and advisor of the new Branch from the beginning. He crafted a French feast, but without the number of wines we typically have today. In fact, the 1964 Chambertin was used for two different courses. >
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The Ballroom
The Blackstone Hotel
A publication of the Omaha Branch of the International Wine and Food Society
The Kimpton Cottonwood
< Fast forward to today. The Blackstone, constructed in 1915, had fallen on hard times, and in recent memory was converted into office space for the Kiewit Construction Company. But Kiewit left, the building was sold, and a local developer has remodeled the structure from top to bottom, preserving many of the most important public areas. The Blackstone was built in the shape of an “E” and all the public areas and rooms have been updated, preserving the historic touches the hotel was known for. For example, the original first floor tile was saved as well as the fantastic woodwork that is simply unavailable today. An entire new building was constructed for large events, like a 200 guest wedding party, with two stories of room above the ball room. An outdoor pool now exists, with its own pool house, which can be used for parties. Of the original two ballrooms on the top floor, only the north ball rooms survives. The south side was converted into offices and support rooms. A direct elevator connects guests with the ground level and the 7th, or top, floor. The original ceiling arches were conserved. Unfortunately, the building can no longer be called the Blackstone since the name was sold to a hotel in Chicago. The new name is the Kimpton Cottonwood Hotel, a nod to the naturally growing tree that grows along Nebraska’s waterways. The kitchens have all been redone, as well as the various lounges and restaurants. Todd Lemke and Mike Wilke have made the arrangements with the new management and were able to secure the coveted 7th floor ballroom spot on Valentine’s day itself. The menu will be an updated version of the first Annual Event. The Chef is reported to be wonderful. We have invited the members of the Council Bluffs Branch to join us in our 50th anniversary celebration. We have also arranged for special room prices should you want to stay overnight and experience the new hotel’s amenities. Be sure to pencil this extraordinary event onto your calendar. An invitation will be sent towards the middle of January.
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A publication of the Omaha Branch of the International Wine and Food Society
UPCOMING OMAHA BRANCH EVENTS
Mark Your Calendars!
JAN.
9
FEB.
14
50TH ANNUAL HIGH NOON STAG Omaha Prime Producer: Steve Hipple
THE COTTONWOOD (FORMERLY THE BLACKSTONE HOTEL)
IWFS Omaha 50th Anniversary Formal Dinner Couples Event Producer: Todd Lemke & Mike Wilke
HOSTING AN EVENT? Let us know when, where and a little bit about what’s going on! We would love to include YOUR event on the calendar! Email details to: murnantom@gmail.com
A publication of the Omaha Branch of the International Wine and Food Society
January 2021 Purpose: To meet communication and service needs, to broaden participation and understand and to be an information exchange for the membership of The International Wine & Food Society in the Americas. Publisher: Todd Lemke Editor: Tom Murnan Graphic Designer: Omaha Magazine, LTD.
THE INTERNATIONAL WINE & FOOD SOCIETY OF LONDON, ENGLAND OM A H A, NEBR A SK A BR A NCH - E X ECU T I V E COM MIT TEE This Quick Response Code (QR-Code) can be scanned with a scanner app on your smart phone to take the reader directly to the Omaha Branch web site.
PR E SI DENT: Mark Stokes............................................................... mark_stokes@aig.com
V ICE PR E SI DENT / SECR ETA RY: Dave Thrasher.................... dave@supportworks.com
TR EASU R ER: Les Zanotti................................................................ zanol@cox.net
W I N E CELLA R M ASTER: Duke Matz....................................... dmatz@darland.com M EM BERSH I P CH A I R M A N: Joe Goldstein.............................. goldie2@cox.net
B OA R D O F D I R E C T O R S : Joe Goldstein
John Matthews
Todd Lemke
Tom Murnan
Steve Hipple
Duke Matz
Tad Singer
Lowell Wilhite
Dave Thrasher
Les Zanotti
Mark Stokes
Mike Wilke
KEEP IN TOUCH! Please notify Club President, Mark Stokes, 402-679-7317 or via email at mark_stokes@aig.com to let him know if you are interested in hosting an IWFS event.
ANNOUNCEMENTS FOR THE MEMBERS WILL BE POSTED ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER. Like us on FACEBOOK (IWFSOmaha): facebook.com/IWFSOmaha and follow us on TWITTER (IWFSOmaha): twitter.com/IWFSOmaha
All versions of Wine & Food Gazette are published monthly by Omaha Magazine, LTD, P.O. Box 461208, Omaha, NE 68046-1208. Telephone: (402) 884-2000. No whole or part of the contents herein may be reproduced without prior written permission of Omaha Magazine, excepting individually copyrighted articles and photographs. Unsolicited manuscripts are accepted however no responsibility will be assumed for such solicitations. The opinions expressed in this publication, except as specifically stated to the contrary, are solely the opinion of the author and do no necessarily represent the views of the Board of Governors of the Americas. The International Wine & Food Society, LTD., the publisher and any officer, director, member or agent thereof. The international Wine & Food Society does not endorse advertisers’ products and is not responsible for damages incurred from the use of such products nor does it guarantee such products.