Inspired Living Omaha July-August 2017

A n O m a h a W o r l d - H e r a l d P u b l i c at i o n

J u ly / A u g u s t 2 0 1 7 inspiredlivingomaha.com

Serving Nebraska & W e s t e r n I owa

Omaha World-Herald

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”The house is supposed to be lived in and enjoyed, and we do that to the fullest.“

– homeowner Jordan Floriani

JULY / AUGUST 2 0 1 7

VOl. 15 No. 4 Editor-in-Chief Chris Christen 402-444-1094 chris.christen@owh.com

Expect Better • Live Better • Experience Better

Sarah Maier

8026 Dodge • 402-830-2879 OmahaSelectRealty.com

Creative Director/Designer Heidi Thorson 402-444-1351 hthorson@owh.com Photo Imaging Specialist Patricia “Murphy” Benoit Content Contributors laura c carlson, Kim Carpenter, Marjie Ducey, Mark Eckstrom, Mikal Eckstrom, Kirby Kaufman, Chad Lebo, Maggy Lehmicke, Jessica Luna, Howard K. Marcus, Kyle MacMillan Photography Contributors Jeffrey Bebee, laura c carlson, Heather & Jameson, Kurt A. Keeler, Megan LaLone, Chad Lebo, Maggy Lehmicke, Ryan Soderlin On the Cover Home of Bob Benzel and Gerry Sullivan. Photo by Jeffrey Bebee.

Custom Publishing Sales Manager Deb McChesney | 402-444-1448 | Debbie.Cavalier@owh.com Account Representatives Sara Baker | 402-444-1442 | Sara.Baker@owh.com Gay Liddell | 402-444-1489 | Gay.Liddell@owh.com Emily Martin | 402-444-1411 | Emily.Martin@owh.com Rachael White | 402-444-1209 | Rachael.White@owh.com Event Manager Tam Webb | 402-444-3125 | Tam.Webb@owh.com Event Coordinator Emily Gerhardt | 402-444-1161 | Emily.Gerhardt@owh.com

1314 Douglas St., Suite 700 Omaha, NE 68102 402-444-1094

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Inspired Living Omaha (ISSN 23795948) is a publication of the Omaha World-Herald. ©2017, Omaha World-Herald, a Berkshire Hathaway Company. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the specific written permission of the publisher. The opinions expressed by those interviewed are their own. While every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of information, no responsibility can be accepted by the publisher for content, opinions or practices, or how the information herein is used. All materials submitted, including but not limited to images, logos and text that appear, are assumed to be the original work of the provider, and the publisher is not responsible for unintentional copyright infringement.

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EDITOR'S NOTE

The world awaits I recently talked with an adventurous forty-something husband and father who routinely explores exotic and sometimes dangerous parts of the world.

Chris christen editor-in-chief

FUN FACT Chris and her husband average 1,000 pictures per day when they travel.

He shoots architecture and street scenes; she focuses on artsy details.

Each night, Chris edits the batch for a Photo of the Day. She wins more often than he does. Or so he says.

When I asked why, he told me: “Travel is what I do now to broaden my horizons. Vacation is what I will do when I retire.”

I love that.

While my passport (and courage) has not taken me to any extreme locales, I have grown into a seasoned European traveler, thanks to my Swiss-born parents.

I was 15 months old when they introduced

Stay connected between issues.

Get sneak peeks of styled shoots, bonus photos from current issues, recipe links and more. @inspiredlivingomaha

me to their homeland and set the stage for a lifetime of trips to Switzerland to visit family, immerse myself in the culture and tour its spectacular countryside (the Berner Oberland and Canton Valais are the best!)

Be inspired by people, places and things that we  . Food, fashion & décor top the list. @inspiredomaha

I am fortunate to have a husband who relishes such experiences and is gung-ho to travel the world – within reason. In our 11 years of marriage, we have been fortunate to explore some of Europe’s greatest

Find thousands of projects to fit your lifestyle on our Pinterest boards. Our current obsession: vacation destinations. @inspiredomaha

cities and heritage sites and collect some unforgettable memories along the way.

Paris – Strolling the Avenue des ChampsÉlysées at dusk to put ourselves at the Arc de Triomphe for a 360-degree view as the City

Have a story idea, question or comment? Email the editor at chris.christen@owh.com

of Lights lived up to its name; sunning on the steps of Sacré-Coeur Basilica overlooking the iconic street artists at Montmartre, lunching at Les Jules Verne at the Eiffel Tower.

The Beaches of Normandy – Finding naturally formed heart-shaped stones at Omaha Beach, a surreal and spiritual reminder of the thousands of lives lost on

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D-Day, June 6, 1944.

Berlin – Being face-to-face with world history at the Reichstag (capitol building), the Holocaust memorial (in reverent silence) and the Berlin Wall (with President Ronald Reagan’s famous words top of mind).

Milan – People-watching at the insanely fashionable Milano Galleria (and feeling grossly underdressed); grinning at the Piazza del Duomo for a very touristy Travel Snap with a front page of The World-Herald.

Venice – Getting disoriented on an evening walk through a maze of alleys and trying to find someone who spoke enough English to guide us back to our hotel; browsing the fresh fish market and squirming at the prospect of eating delicacies like octopus and eel.

Florence – Taking a teary-eyed first look at Michelangelo’s “David;” lighting candles in memory of loved ones at Duomo di Firenze, one of the largest cathedrals in the world.

Rome – Strolling the Colosseum plaza in moonlight with only a dozen other tourists (while earlier in the day, we were among some 33,000); standing in the very spot where Julius Caesar was assassinated, amid ruins dating to that day; passing through the Holy Door at St. Peter’s Basilica; applauding wildly over a street performer’s passionate rendition of “Nessun Dorma.”

Next up? London.

In this issue, see how others are exploring our world.

Here’s to navigating your next adventure!

Introducing

Professional Designers to help you express your style— We are passionate about creating a space that perfectly expresses your style. When you’re ready to revive your home’s aesthetic, our professional designers are ready to help with complimentary in-store design services. Schedule an appointment or visit our Design Gallery today to begin.

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BEFORE + AFTER 16 | Tiny House Design Done Right 20 | Urban Oasis THREADS 32 | Globetrotting Style DESTINATION 40 | Des Moines 42 | Chicago 46 | Europe 50 | Cuba Host 52 | Miami Maximalism Au Courant 54 | Get Tagged PROFILE 56 | Bart Vargas THE HIDDEN PANTRY 58 | Worldly Sandwiches Experience Local 63 | Luxury Homes 63 | Inspired Resources

Patio party, home of bob benzel and Gerry sullivan. PHOTOGRAPHED BY JEFFREY BEBEE.

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Heidi THORSON

KIM CARPENTER

DEB M c Chesney

FUN FACT Heidi most recently traveled to Salt Lake City with her mom.

FUN FACT Kim once went to Algeria by mistake.

It’s easier to do than you think.

FUN FACT Deb enjoys summer evenings on her new patio and making far too many s’mores in the fire pit.

creative director + designer

ANDReA VEITH

writer

advertising account manager

advertising sales assistant

advertising account executive

Gay LIddell

Murphy Benoit

FUN FACT Andrea will be traveling to Johnson Lake, Nebraska, in late August to see the Solar Eclipse.

FUN FACT Gay is a grandmother again and is enjoying her new little guy so much!

FUN FACT Murphy is spending her summer gardening and hopes to enlarge her perennial collection. White poppies are a must!

Emily Martin

photo imaging specialist

advertising account executive

advertising account executive

SARA BAKER

HOWARD K. MARCUS

FUN FACT Emily is looking forward to her family vacation in Hilton Head, South Carolina.

FUN FACT Sara is ready to enjoy warm summer days complete with sunshine, chips and salsa, and a margarita.

FUN FACT Howard's travel tip: Going for an evening walk at your big-city travel destination?

Plan your route and follow it. Trust me.

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copy editor

Photos: Heidi THorson, Kurt A. Keeler, Heather & Jameson, Jeffrey Bebee, Lane Hickenbottom, Morgan Jade Photography, nicholas jacobsen, Maria Julie Photography

CONTRIBUTORS

Heather + Jameson

Jessica Luna

Maggy Lehmicke

FUN FACT Heather says the furthest she has ever traveled is Italy. The furthest Jameson has traveled is Mexico.

FUN FACT Jessica researches best places to eat wherever she goes. But the locals know best, so sometimes it's a matter of asking around.

FUN FACT Maggy’s bucket list destinations include Cuzco, Peru; Varanasi, India; Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

CHad LEbo

Kali Rahder

KIRBY KAUFMAN

FUN FACT Chad loves to cook game and teaches classes on deer and wild game birds.

FUN FACT Kali recently traveled to Destin, Florida.

She enjoyed biking along the coast, eating fresh seafood, and soaking up the sun.

FUN FACT Kirby once drove 24 hours nonstop with friends from Omaha to Las Vegas. They said he slept through Utah.

RACHAEL WHITE

Jeffrey Bebee

Laura C. Carlson

FUN FACT Rachael's favorite summer activities include attending concerts and festivals and sitting around the fire drinking wine.

FUN FACT Jeffrey does not get anywhere fast when he travels. It's a photographer thing.

"Oh look! Picture! (squirrel).”

FUN FACT Laura was spanked by a housekeeper in Cuba for tracking mud into the house.

She was 26 at the time.

Kyle Macmillan

KURT A. KEELER

Mark & Mikal Eckstrom

FUN FACT Kyle first went abroad when he was 16, going on a summer class trip to France for six weeks.

FUN FACT Kurt says international travel is great for the famous sights and wonderful for the people you meet.

FUN FACT Mark & Mikal have the cleaners press their dress shirts before traveling then repurpose the plastic for repacking dirty clothes.

fashion photographers

food columnist

advertising account executive

travel writer

fashion stylist

hair & makeup stylist

photographer

copy editor

travel writer

travel writer

travel writer

host stylists

inspiredlivingomaha.com 13

Linda Hartough

Aldo Luongo

Cheryl Kelley

Thomas Arvid

Nancy Teague

Bob Mathews

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BEFORE + AFTER

Omaha couple is 12 years ahead of the tiny house movement Story Chris Christen Photography Kurt A. Keeler

“It’s a little tight. Suck it in,” Omahan Annette Huff teases on a walk-through of her tiny getaway house in Manhattan, Kansas. At just 500 square feet, it’s a quick tour.

But that’s the point.

The bungalow overflows with convenience and nostalgia for Annette and husband, Steve. The Kansas natives have a lifelong connection to the vibrant college town and the scenic Flint Hills that surround it. The tiny house – in lieu of a hotel room – has allowed them not only to economize on lodging but also truly feel at home when they visit.

“We got the idea from a New York Times article,” says Steve. “I read about a Notre Dame football fan who maintained a tiny house in South Bend, Indiana, because it was impossible to get a hotel room on home game weekends. I commented about

that being a great idea for us, and Annette jumped on it.”

The Huffs are alums of Kansas State University and devoted fans of the Wildcats, rarely missing a home football or basketball game.

The Omahans also head to Manhattan frequently as trustees of the KSU Foundation and patrons of the arts in the Manhattan area.

Adding to their enjoyment: Annette grew up in the neighborhood; her family’s original home is just down the street and around the corner.

“For me it’s like being back to my roots,” says Annette, whose grandparents homesteaded in nearby Geary County. Childhood friends remain part of her social circle, including the wife of the current president of K-State.

The Huffs purchased the tiny

THE HOMEOWNERS Omahans Annette and Steve Huff frequently invite friends to join them for weekends in Manhattan, Kansas. Steve is recently retired from Kutak Rock LLP, where he was a partner for 45 years. He and Annette are natives of the Sunflower State and enjoy acting as travel guides for guests.

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house in February 2005 and launched into an ambitious plan to renovate it with the basic comforts of home for occasional stays for themselves and friends.

“It had its problems,” Annette says of the World War II-era fixer-upper.

Some were major.

For one, the basement was caving in. “You wouldn’t have put your dog down there, it was so bad,” Annette recalls.

General contractor Dave Scott lifted the house off its original foundation, constructed a new basement and set the house in place. (continued on page 18)

KITCHEN The homeowners spiffed up the galley kitchen with new countertop and backsplash. Cabinets were reconfigured slightly to gain storage space.

MINI BAR A pull-out mini bar is a creative use of dead space over the basement stairway.

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(continued from page 16)

A month later, work shifted to the interior. Scott took the walls down to their studs and made modifications to maximize the square footage. Hardwood flooring was installed for visual continuity throughout the main level. White tile was put to use in the home’s two bathrooms for a greater sense of space while maintaining the character of the original 1940s decor.

“Appliances ... furnishings ... everything is in miniature,” Annette says. “You don’t let any space go to waste in a house this size.”

The formerly unusable basement now boasts a guest suite, complete with twin beds, reading nook and full bath.

The contractor had the house ready for christening in September 2005 – just in time to kick off the Wildcats’ football season.

“We can crowd quite a few people in here after a game,” says Annette. “And I can clean up quickly.”

Rooms come to life with natural light and wall art, much of it original. “I change it around all the time,” Annette says, revealing her secret to keeping spaces fresh and interesting. A few heirloom furniture pieces and photographs mingle with traditional furnishings and accessories. The overall look is casual and comfortable, like a favorite pair of khakis and a button-down shirt.

“It was a lot of work, but it’s perfect for what we like to do,” Steve says of their tiny dynamo.

Looking to the future, the Huffs see something bigger coming from their investment. Annette’s hope: “Our little house just might be a catalyst for other renovations in the neighborhood.”

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BASEMENT An accent table at the foot of the basement stairs once belonged to Steve’s parents. Above it, a painting by Peter Hill. On the tabletop, an abstract form by Mary Beth Fogarty. The tote bag is a Jun Kaneko original.

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DESIGN DONE RIGHT

Once an eyesore, 1920s Midtown duplex stands out with artistic flair Story Chris Christen Photography jeffrey bebee

I

n the words of American author and poet Ella Wheeler Wilcox, “A weed is but an unloved flower.”

Bob Benzel and Gerry Sullivan saw exactly that in a 1920s St. Louis-style duplex near 33rd and Dodge Streets back in 2010.

The dwelling – owned by an absentee landlord with neglectful tenants – had the curb appeal of a noxious weed.

“We’re gentrifiers,” Bob says of rescuing and restoring the Georgian brick eyesore with the care of a bird building its nest, step by step, twig by twig. Today, it’s an oasis for relaxation and casual entertaining.

“It’s wonderfully strange, don’t you think?” Bob asks rhetorically as he and Gerry offer a tour of their “very, very urban home.” Every inch, inside and out, is a reflection of the art-loving couple’s delightfully quirky personal style.

“People who come here for parties are blown away because it’s so different,” Gerry offers. “It’s funky and unique and very ‘Bob.’ He’s an artist, and this is just a continuation of his art.”

A quick-witted retired art and humanities instructor at Ralston High School, Bob shrugs and smiles at the compliment. “Gerry said to me, ‘We don’t need any flowers in the yard, just greenery.’ OK, no flowers, I said. And then, petal by petal, I snuck them in.”

Pragmatic Gerry explains, “I was thinking low maintenance. In our old house near 39th and Chicago, we had a very big yard and were watering all the time.”

But there was a bigger lifestyle consideration.

“We were looking for a house that we could adapt for old age,” explains Bob. Criteria No. 1: A floor plan that would allow for a bedroom and bathroom on the first floor – a scarce commodity in midtown Omaha.

Criteria No. 2: A lot big enough for a garage and driveway that could double as a party area. That’s another tough-to-find amenity in the neighborhood.

When the stacked duplex came up for sale, “We mulled it over,” recalls Bob. “The location had in the recent past some problems with crime, and the house needed a lot of work.”

Midtown Crossing, rising just two blocks to the south, was an undeniable lure.

“We wanted to be closer to Midtown Crossing because we thought things were going to start happening down here,” Gerry recalls. A grocery, bus stop and hospital within walking distance already were ideal amenities for aging in place.

The couple took possession that October, and Bob launched into civilizing the front yard while tenants moved out. A long autumn allowed for reconstruction of the stoop and the stairs, plus construction of a Chicago Gold Coast-inspired courtyard patio with hedges, ornamental trees, flowering perennials and other dense plantings for privacy.

“The yard was a barren wasteland. Nothing was growing,” he reflects. The side yard, where the driveway would go, was a mudhole. “We knew we were going to have a lot of concrete,” he says of the driveway. To soften the look, grass and concrete alternate in a checkerboard pattern for half the length.

A three-car garage addition remains true to the style of the boxy duplex. “We spent a lot of money (continued on page 25)

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FIRST LEVEL LIVING ROOM

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(continued from page 20)

to build the garage to look old,” Gerry confides. Vintage green tile, found by the roofer at a salvage yard, matches the tile trim on the front of the duplex.

Privacy fencing provides a backdrop for sun-loving ornamentals and three-dimensional art by Iggy Sumnik and Sidney Buchanan.

The homeowners refer to the front patio as their living room and the back patio as their dining room and sitting area. But the latter also is their main entrance. “Whenever people come over, we tell them, ‘come to the front,’ which is actually the back door,” Bob says.

The outdoor room – a “lean-to” of sorts with rafters – is furnished with “wonderful, strange, strange stuff” (in Bob’s words), much of it acquired at Collector’s Choice estate sales.

In summer, cascading vines and other greenery form natural walls and keep the space comfortable on the hottest of days.

Heat lamps extend the homeowners’ enjoyment of the outdoor room well into fall.

Inside the home, Mother Nature’s warm, earthy tones flow from room to room. While the outside garden spaces are cultivated with wild abandon, the interior living spaces are meticulously arranged. “We have a lot of art, obviously,” Bob says.

Flashback to January 2011.

“The place was in shambles,” he says. “There was just about no choice but to rip out everything.”

He and Gerry lived on the upper floor for about a year while Bob redid the main level with an eye toward the future. “We added insulation, replaced windows, updated plumbing, etc., knowing the first floor someday would be our main living area,” Bob said.

The homeowners have been together for 15 years. They met at a party in Omaha. Gerry had recently transferred with Union Pacific’s real estate department from San Francisco, and Bob was guest bartending for the host, a mutual friend.

Bob retired from teaching 16 years ago to concentrate on his rental properties and artistic pursuits. Gerry retired in 2013. In December 2015, they were married.

The couple have a wide circle of friends and generally have someone over for dinner a couple of times a week. Political fundraisers, wedding rehearsal dinners and art soirees are common occurrences year-round. Last July, they hosted a garden party for 200 in celebration of their own nuptials.

“We took the garage and turned it into a junior-senior prom,” Bob quips, alluding to the hand-painted murals, twinkle lights and tissue paper flowers that decorated the space. The menu included pulled pork sandwiches, coleslaw, brownies and lemon bars. And the affair found its way onto the pages of The World-Herald’s Wedding Essentials magazine.

“We never hire caterers,” Bob says. He does the cooking and the baking; Gerry handles arrangements and setup. Day of the event, servers manage the food and beverage stations while the hosts mingle.

The Arts & Crafts interior is as unpretentious and welcoming as the homeowners themselves.

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(continued on page 29)

inspiredlivingomaha.com 25

MASTER BEDROOM

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SECOND LEVEL LIVING ROOM

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SECOND LEVEL DINING ROOM

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(continued from page 25)

A small staircase from the back patio leads to a cheery galley kitchen (with a unique touch in the backsplash: handpainted 1880s Belgium tiles purchased at a street market in Buenos Aries). But you won’t find much cooking here.

This two-person space primarily serves as a beverage station and food prep area when the couple entertains. The full-size kitchen is on the second floor.

A combination dining room-living room features a terracotta stone hearth, oak woodwork, hardwood floors with tapestry rugs, and a handsome blend of traditional, Arts & Crafts and Midcentury furnishings. The standout room, however, may be the sunroom-turned-den with its intricately tiled floor.

A Bob Benzel original, the pattern is comprised of 1x1 inch granite and quartz tiles to disguise the fact that the walls are not square.

Another charmer: An art room, with a puppet theater in progress for a friend’s grandkids.

A luggage storage area under the back staircase conveniently holds 45 folding chairs and other frequently used party items.

Upstairs, original floorplans of two bedrooms were modified to accommodate a master suite and a guest room, both with full baths.

And then there’s the kitchen, also enlarged for efficiency when the couple entertains.

Tour complete, Bob and Gerry are eager to return to the lean-to, where glasses of wine are poured and the conversation returns to the joys of landscape gardening.

“A lot of people in the Midwest just think of their yards in the summer season,” Bob says. “I’ve strived to have a yearround garden. In September, the ivy wall turns bright orange.

It’s stunning. And after a snowfall, the potted plants look like winter bouquets.”

He pauses to survey their oasis. “You really feel like you’re somewhere else.”

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THREADS

Location: Mr. Toad’s Pub, 10th and Howard Streets.

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Go your own way. These destinationinspired looks are ready for adventure. photography Heather & Jameson Art Direction Heidi THorson Merchandise st yling Jessica luna Hair & Makeup Kali rahder, victor victoria salon & spa model Bianca, develop model management

(Opposite page) Pippa maxi dress » HUSH LA BOUTIQUE McQueen “Back From the Beach” earrings » BLUE POMEGRANATE Antique hairpiece Gold-plated stone ring Gold-and-bronze beaded bracelet Turkish necklace All from Silver of Oz » MAIN STREET STUDIOS & ART GALLERY Bison weekender tote » OVERLAND SHEEPSKIN CO.

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Location: Laka Lona Rum Club 1204 Howard St.

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(Opposite page) Romper » HUSH LA BOUTIQUE Sylvie Mus suede trench » CHRISTEL’S Tassle earrings Headband » SOUQ LIMITED BOUTIQUE Silver of Oz sterling silver and amber rings » MAIN STREET STUDIOS & ART GALLERY

(This page) Palmer//Harding waterfall shirt » MERCI Becken skinny cargo pant Lareida “Ronny” jacket Transit belt Pedro Garcia platforms » CHRISTEL’S Lotus Giardino scarf Nora backpack » OVERLAND SHEEPSKIN CO. McQueen “Back From the Beach” earrings » BLUE POMEGRANATE Sunglasses » SOUQ LIMITED BOUTIQUE Vintage Native American silver and turquoise belt Vintage handmade silver bracelet Levent Oz sterling silver and opal ring All from Silver of Oz » MAIN STREET STUDIOS & ART GALLERY

Location: Blue Sushi Sake Grill, 416 S. 12th St.

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Becken Poplin V-neck tunic » CHRISTEL’S AZI poncho » NJ & CO. Joe’s Jeans “The Icon Flare” » FABULOUS FASHIONS OMAHA McQueen “India Summer” earrings » BLUE POMEGRANATE Pom-pom necklace Multistrand bead necklace » SOUQ LIMITED BOUTIQUE

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Silver of Oz vintage cuff » MAIN STREET STUDIOS & ART GALLERY Embroidered clutch » HUSH LA BOUTIQUE Bio Natura “Sheila” wedge Goorin Bros. “Fatima” fedora » OVERLAND SHEEPSKIN CO. Location: Blue Sushi Sake Grill 416 S. 12th St.

Queene & Belle slip top » MERCI Picadilly jacket » FABULOUS FASHIONS OMAHA Silver crest necklace Silver multistrand necklace » NJ & CO. Location: La Buvette 511 S. 11th St.

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Pretty in Pink dress » HELLO RUBY Studded belt Fringed vest » SOUQ LIMITED BOUTIQUE Levent Oz silver bracelet Silver of Oz sterling silver and cabochon ruby ring Levent Oz sterling silver and brown jasper bolo » MAIN STREET STUDIOS & ART GALLERY Maiyet “Sia” hobo bag » MERCI Sonora Isabella leather boots » OVERLAND SHEEPSKIN CO.

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Location: Le Bouillion

XCVI “Athena” dress Cisco choker » HUSH LA BOUTIQUE Kimono » SOUQ LIMITED BOUTIQUE Silver of Oz sterling silver and amber ring Silver of Oz fossil and ammonite necklace » MAIN STREET STUDIOS & ART GALLERY Location: Laka Lona Rum Club 1204 Howard St.

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DESTINATION

A lively city, smack dab in the middle of Iowa Story & PHOTOGRAPHY KIRBY KAUFMAN

I

owa’s up-and-coming capital city, Des Moines, is just a two-hour drive east of Omaha and no stranger to daily and weekend visitors from the 402, 531 and 712 area codes.

The growing metro of 620,000plus residents is the heart of central Iowa and a bustling hub for food, fine arts, shopping and outdoor fun.

Visit on a weekday and take advantage of a free hop-on-hop-off shuttle that circulates downtown. Or join the throngs for an annual event like the 20th Des Moines Arts Festival, June 23-25, or the World Food & Music Festival, Sept. 15-17.

With Megabus service recently restored between Lincoln and Chicago, a short-distanceonly rider could even consider a weekend here. (The route includes stops in Omaha, Des Moines, Iowa City and Moline, Illinois. Fares range from $1 to about $69 if you travel all the way to the Windy City.)

Home of the Butter Cow during the Iowa State Fair, Des Moines’ small-town first impression quickly fades. Catch Des Moines, it’s entirely unexpected.

OUTDOOR PLAY

INDOOR PLAY

Asian Gardens Robert D. Ray Asian Drive Built by the Chinese Cultural Center of America, this garden includes a pagoda, granite sculptures and a large pond. It’s a true homage to Eastern culture in the Midwest.

Des Moines Art Museum 4700 Grand Ave. Admission is free, and you’ll see works by local and international artists. With rotating exhibitions, this is a solid choice for art lovers.

Des Moines Botanical Center 909 Robert D. Ray Drive The city’s first public garden opened in 1929 and continues to offer a fresh look at flora and other vegetation. Admission begins at $8 for adults, $6 for students. Free for ages 3 and younger.

Gray’s Lake Park 2101 Fleur Drive One of Des Moines’ most popular outdoor recreation areas features opportunities for fishing, boating and swimming. The 1.9-mile walking path is a favorite of runners and dog walkers.

Pappajohn Sculpture Park 1330 Grand Ave. The John and Mary Pappajohn Sculpture Park features works by 22 memorable artists. Opened in 2009, the urban greenspace has a walkable path and great picnic spots. (Featured at left, "Nomade,"

by Jaume Plensa.)

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Science Center of Iowa 401 W. Martin Luther King Jr. Parkway This 11,000-square-foot, hands-on education center appeals to children and adults. The science center also is home to the Blank IMAX Dome Theater.

Fort Des Moines Museum 75 E. Army Post Road This is one of Polk County’s two National Historic Landmarks. Learn about U.S. Army history at home, where African-American soldiers trained for the first time in World War I, then women trained during World War II. State Historical Museum of Iowa 600 E. Locust St. Everything you wanted to know about Iowa in one place. With more than 80,000 items, the museum tells the story of the Civil War, Iowa’s Hollywood claim to fame and more.

WHERE TO SHOP

WHERE TO EAT

Downtown Des Moines Farmers Market 300 Court Ave. Three hundred vendors from 58 Iowa counties span nine city blocks during the 2017 Farmers Market.

The market is open Saturdays from 7 a.m. to noon, May 6-Sept. 30; 8 a.m. to noon, Oct. 7-Oct. 28.

Fong’s Pizza 223 Fourth St. Try the famous crab Rangoon pizza. Looking for a late-night snack?

Fong’s Pizza serves individual slices after 10 p.m.

Historic Valley Junction 137 Fifth Street, West Des Moines The former railroad district is now home to many mom-and-pop shops. If you’re a fan of antique and thrift stores, start here.

Jordan Creek Mall 101 Jordan Creek Parkway, West Des Moines Off I-80 in the suburb of West Des Moines lies the metro’s largest collection of big-box stores and designer labels, including Apple, Coach, Clarks and J. Crew.

Pho 888 1521 Second Ave. Traditional Vietnamese pho – a light soup with noodles, meat and vegetables – doesn’t get any better than this. Situated in one of Des Moines’ diverse neighborhoods, this restaurant also offers Thai, Laotian and Chinese cuisines. (Below)

Jethro’s Barbecue 3100 Forest Ave. Multiple locations Smoked brisket, ribs, pulled pork and chicken wings with numerous sauces. This is truly a barbecue-lover’s paradise. It’s no surprise that so many people love this Des Moines-based chain.

Omaha.com

Americana 1312 Locust St. The perfect Sunday brunch spot, but if you wake up too late, don’t fret. There’s a $6 gourmet burger special starting at 3 p.m. This is where making a reservation pays off.

RAYGUN 505 E. Grand Ave. Clever custom T-shirt designs can be found here. The Des Moinesbased shop’s infamous shirts have become Midwest sensations since the store opened in 2005. The people who work here will make sure you leave with a memorable souvenir.

CREATIVE. UNIQUE. LOCAL. Fine Art, Custom Glass, Bronzes & Jewelry

WHERE TO STAY Des Lux Hotel 800 Locust St. Originally the Des Moines Club, this 1912 hotel combines a vintage feel with modern luxury. The allure of being in the heart of downtown makes this a perfect choice for anyone who wants to walk.

Look for the iconic gargoyles watching out for guests.

Renaissance Des Moines Savery Hotel 401 Locust St. This 11-story building on the National Register of Historic Places is undergoing renovation. Completion is anticipated this summer. Officials say to expect “timevalued accents” with a “modern touch.”

Holiday Inn Express Des Moines-At Drake University 1140 24th St. Here’s your best option if you want to be a little removed from downtown.

You’re located right off University Avenue, one of the city’s main streets, while still close to popular spots like Iowa’s capitol.

Airbnb Various locations Airbnb is a growing lodging option in Des Moines. Rentals for short-term stays can be as low as $20 per night. From apartments to small houses, something will meet your needs.

2610 N Main St. Elkhorn, NE 68022 402.452.3088 mainstreetstudios2610.com inspiredlivingomaha.com 41

DESTINATION

WHERE TO STAY

Everyone's kind of town Story KYLE MacMILLAN

C

hicago has long been a favorite destination for Midlanders looking for a weekend away or a longer vacation, and it’s not hard to understand why. It boasts the scale and amenities of a world-class metropolis, but still possesses a down-to-earth, easy-going Midwestern vibe. And it has the added benefit of being just a quick plane ride away from the Omaha metro area.

The Windy City drew 54.1 million visitors in 2016, a 2.9 percent increase from the year before, and there’s every reason to believe those numbers will continue growing in 2017 and beyond.

Shedd Aquarium, one of the world’s largest indoor aquariums, and the Field Museum, one of the world’s great natural-history museums, are consistent tourist draws, but there’s an ever-growing assortment of new attractions atop Chicago’s must-do list. These include a 200-foot-tall Ferris wheel (50 feet taller than its predecessor) that opened at Navy Pier last year, and the 3-year-old Maggie Daley Park with its two 40-foot climbing walls and imaginative 3-acre playground.

Here are other sites and experiences to add to your Windy City itinerary.

LondonHouse 85 E. Wacker Drive The former London Guarantee & Accident Building, a neo-classical beauty in a prime location overlooking the Chicago River, reopened in 2016 as the 452-room LondonHouse. One of the hotel’s big draws is the rooftop deck, which offers spectacular views of the city. londonhousechicago.com

Hotel Blake 500 S. Dearborn St. For a hotel that is right downtown but still a bit off the beaten track, the 162-room Hotel Blake is ideal.

This boutique hotel occupies the renovated and combined Morton and Duplicator buildings from the late 19th century. hotelblake.com

Adam alexander photography

HISTORIC SITES Architectural boat tours Michigan Avenue Bridge at Wacker Drive As the birthplace of the skyscraper and home to several architectural giants, Chicago has an architectural heritage that ranks it among the top cities in the world. A must for any first-time visitor is a boat tour along the Chicago River. architecture.org

Frank Lloyd Wright’s architecture Oak Park The legendary architect’s influence can be felt all over Chicago, but it’s particularly concentrated in this nearby suburb where he had his home and studio at 951 Chicago Ave. flwright.org

Adam alexander photography

42 july/august 2017

MUSEUMS, THEATER & PUBLIC ART

"The Picasso"/City of chicago

Art Institute of Chicago 111 S. Michigan Ave. With more than 300,000 works of art spread across 11 curatorial departments, the Art Institute is one of the world’s great museums. It’s particularly renowned for its Impressionist collection. In March, the museum opened its 8,000-square-foot Deering Family Galleries with a display titled “Saints and Heroes: Art of Medieval and Renaissance Europe.” It includes a section devoted to the museum’s popular arms and armor collection which has not been shown in a comprehensive way for a decade or so. artic.edu "Untitled,” known as “The Picasso,” 1967 Richard J. Daley Civic Center Plaza 50 W. Washington Chicago has a rich public-art collection, but no work is better known than this vaguely figurative 50-foot steel sculpture that was designed by Picasso and fabricated at a steel mill in nearby Gary, Indiana. Although the work is now a beloved city landmark, it generated considerable controversy when it was unveiled in 1960. cityofchicago.org/publicart Steppenwolf Theatre 1650 N. Halstead St. Steppenwolf has to be included on any list of the most influential theatrical companies in the United States.

Its best productions regularly transfer to New York City, and it has premiered such important recent plays as Tracy Letts’ Pulitzer Prize-winning “August: Osage County” and “Superior Donuts,” which has been turned into a television show. Running through Aug. 20 is Taylor Mac’s “Hir,” a drama about a dysfunctional family that in 2015 made Top 10 lists in the New York Times and elsewhere. steppenwolf.org

Steppenwolf Theater/Neil Burger

Frank lloyd wright home/Courtesy

The Second City 1616 N. Wells St. This indispensable cradle of improvisational comedy needs little introduction. Since it presented its first show in 1959, it has produced a stream of performers who have gone on to international fame, including John Belushi, Steve Carrell, Tina Fey, Bill Murray, Amy Sedaris and George Wendt. Still as vibrant as ever, the club offers shows virtually every night, giving visitors a chance to laugh and see the potential stars of tomorrow. secondcity.com

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WORTH-IT WALKS Millennium Park 201 E. Randolph St. According to some crowd measures, this downtown park, which marked its 10th anniversary in 2015, has become Chicago’s hottest tourist destination. The 24½-acre green space features the sleek, Frank Gehry-designed Pritzker Pavilion, which is home to numerous outdoor music concerts each summer. Several major public artworks include Anish Kapoor’s “Cloud Gate,” more popularly known as “The Bean.” The massive stainless steel sculpture reflects the sky and everything around it, providing an alluring, ever-changing background each day for thousands of selfie-takers. cityofchicago.org

QUALITY TUNES Bloomingdale Trail, or The 606 1600-3700 W. Bloomingdale Ave. In 2013, the City of Chicago purchased the right-of-way for what had been a 2.7-mile elevated railroad that ran east-west on the northwest side of Chicago. Following the example of the High Line in New York City, this narrow tract of land was converted to a linear park that passes through Logan Square, Humboldt Park and West Town and became an immediate hit with walkers, inline skaters and bikers. In 2016, it received the National Planning Excellence Award for Urban Design. bloomingdaletrail.org

"The bean"/choose chicago

Sunset loop/Adam alexander photography

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Dusty Groove/Courtesy

Buddy Guy’s Legends 700 S. Wabash Ave. To grasp the credibility of this blues showcase, look no further than its namesake and founder.

Guy is a Chicago legend by any definition. Rolling Stone magazine ranked him No. 23 on its list of the 100 greatest guitarists of all time. The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inductee was a major influence on such rock giants as Jimi Hendrix, Eric Clapton and Stevie Ray Vaughan. Founded in 1989, Legends offers top blues names virtually every night, with Guy returning for a series of shows each January. buddyguy.com Jazz Showcase 806 S. Plymouth Court The number of jazz clubs in the United States continues to diminish, making this historic venue an even more valuable destination. Operating in a series of locations since its founding in 1947 by Joe Segal — named a National Endowment for the Arts Jazz Master in 2015 — the Showcase is now in a converted historic railroad station near Printer’s Row. This intimate space with its candlelit tables and memorabilia-lined walls is an ideal place to hear some of the finest jazz artists at work today. jazzshowcase.com Dusty Groove 1120 N. Ashland Ave. Vinyl has made a big comeback, and Chicago has a first-rate mix of funky stores to find classic LPs and 45s. One of the best is this comfortable, laid-back shop that covers a broad spectrum of music styles, with a particularly strong selection of jazz and classical music. dustygroove.com Other vintage record stores worth a visit: Reckless Records, three locations including 26 E. Madison St., reckless.com, and Dave’s Records, 2604 N. Clark St. davesrecordschicago.com

Adam alexander photography

SUMMER HAPPENINGS Ravinia Festival Highland Park This historic music festival stages more than 140 concerts each year. As the summer home of the world-renowned Chicago Symphony Orchestra, classical music features are a primary component of its offerings. But Ravinia also presents top artists in a range of other styles, including rock, jazz and country. Metra, Chicago’s commuter railway system, offers special festival trains before each concert from Ogilvie Transportation Center, 500 W. Madison St. This year’s line-up includes Tony Bennett, Alanis Morissette and Willie Nelson. Through Sept. 17. ravinia.org “Takashi Murakami: The Octopus Eats Its Own Leg,” Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago 220 E. Chicago Ave. Drawing on Japanese manga and animé and blurring the boundaries of high and low art, Murakami has become one of the world’s best-known artists.

This major retrospective features 50 paintings spanning three decades of his career, many on view in North America for the first time. A highlight is the work that gives the show its title: a 114-foot-long visual extravaganza made up of more than 35 panels.

Through Sept. 24. mcachicago.org Adam alexander photography

WINE & DINE Topolobampo 445 N. Clark St. In May, this restaurant with a pleasantly tongue-teasing name was named the nation’s outstanding restaurant by the James Beard Foundation. It was the second such award for chef and owner Rick Bayless, who has gained national acclaim for his imaginative interpretations of traditional Mexican cuisine. It’s part of a complex of three restaurants, each with its own atmosphere, specialties and price points.

The other two are Frontera Grill, 445 N. Clark St., and XOCO, 449 N. Clark St., a quick-service café specializing in Mexican street food. rickbayless.com

North Pond 2610 N. Cannon Drive Nestled in the restful greenery of Lincoln Park adjacent to North Pond, this restaurant offers an escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. It occupies a 1921 structure that formerly served as a warming shelter for ice skaters and was reimagined in 1998 as a kind of arts-and-crafts lodge by architect Nancy Warren, who later designed a seamless addition to provide needed space. As might be expected of a restaurant so tied to nature, it specializes in farmto-table American cuisine that has won many awards. northpondrestaurant.com

Miller’s Pub 134 S. Wabash Ave. For visitors to the Loop – the heart of the city’s downtown as defined by a looping elevated transit line – no establishment provides a more authentic, non-hipster experience than Miller’s. There is nothing fancy about this 82-year-old landmark, which serves up a wide range of pub grub, a full dinner menu and a drink selection that includes an impressive list of craft brews. As the hundreds of publicity stills on its walls make clear, Miller’s has been a favorite stop for politicians, athletes and celebrities, and its bar has been featured in movies such as “The Lake House” with Sandra Bullock. millerspub.com

Hopleaf Bar 5148 N. Clark St. This welcoming bar and restaurant is marking its 25th anniversary in Chicago’s historically Swedish but now highly diverse Andersonville neighborhood. Its owners took over a faded bar and liquor store, completely renovating and re-imagining the interior and adding a pleasant patio in the rear.

The result is a comfortable space that manages to exude an old-fashioned and contemporary feel at the same time – sophisticated but not off-putting. It offers Belgian-inspired cuisine with a full bar, including a good choice of draft beers and ciders. hopleafbar.com

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DESTINATION

CORFU

10 less-touristy destinations with loads of authentic charm Story MaggY Lehmicke PHOTOGRAPHY MaggY Lehmicke & Megan Lalone

T

raveling is one of life’s greatest pleasures, but deciding where to go can be challenging. Leading cities of the world like London and Paris certainly are worth discovering, but smaller cities should beckon, too.

Here are some European favorites from my recent travels.

1

If you’re looking for a seaside paradise in the Greek Isles, you may want to skip the crowded beaches of Mykonos and dirty streets of Santorini.

We’ve all dreamed of getting that romantic photo of blue-andwhite domes from that hilltop in Oia, but it might not be worth all the trouble for that single shot.

Full of off-roading excursions, diving adventures and breathtaking shoreline, Corfu is one of

2

HamBurg

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After Santorini and Mykonos, try Corfu Greece’s most overlooked islands.

Stop in Athens to get a taste of the country’s cultural side, then make your way to this rugged island just off Greece’s northwest coast.

Rent an ATV and explore the area or relax with a book on one of the west coast’s magnificent beaches.

Reserve a bit of time to explore Corfu’s historic city center by the same name on the east side of the island.

After Berlin, try Hamburg

For those of you who want to visit Berlin solely for the history, go right ahead. Between the Berlin Wall, historical museums and unique neighborhoods, there’s plenty to see. Just be aware that this busy city is extremely large and doesn’t have the same European charm as many of its German counterparts.

If you’re looking for a city in northern Germany with natural

beauty and plenty of culture, Hamburg fits the bill. Though it has an industrial side, Hamburg’s parks, waterways and quaint street corners give it the charming European feel that Berlin lacks. Explore the street-side cafes and coffee shops or take a boat tour through the city’s canals. For a peaceful meal by the water, grab lunch or dinner at Café Sommerterrassen.

5 3

If not Zurich, then Basel

Where Switzerland meets France and Germany lies Basel – a midsize city with a youthful feel and lots of character. From Gothic churches to a thriving arts scene and bustling night life, Basel has it all. Explore the street cafes and indulge in the extensive chocolate selections. If you’re there during the warmer months, rent a waterproof bag for your belongings and float down the river – a popular pastime for locals and visitors alike.

4

First Dubrovnik, then Korcula

It’s hard to recommend skipping one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, but if you’re going to visit Dubrovnik, you really must master your timing. During the summer months, the streets are so overrun with tourists that you’ll have more than a little trouble getting around (let alone breathing). Visiting Dubrovnik in the winter is a bit like visiting a ghost town.

I recommend going in April or September, spending a day in Dubrovnik and heading to Korcula for the night. Though there are many beautiful Croatian islands (Hvar, Brac, Miljet and more), Korcula is one on which you should linger. Between the rich history, scenic views, local vineyards and laid-back island lifestyle, there’s a lot to admire about this Croatian gem. Korcula offers everything from snorkeling to dune buggy wine tours. Walk along the coastline at sunset for beautiful views of the town center.

Instead of Bruges, try Ghent

Everyone wants to experience the fairytale, canal-laden town they’ve seen in photos and movies. Reality is, in Bruges most of your photos will capture three or four tourist boats, and you’ll be shoving people left and right to cross the Bonifacius Bridge. If canals, medieval architecture and scenic streets are your cup of tea, Ghent is only a short train ride away. Comparable to Bruges, Ghent’s city center has been nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ghent maintains a youthful feel, thanks to being a college town, and is much less tourist-ridden than its famous sister city. Explore the canals by boat, snack on Belgian fries and admire the Gothic fortresses in the city center. For extra excitement, visit during July to experience Gentse Feesten, a citywide festival also known as The Festivities of Ghent.

6

Basel

Instead of Oslo, go to Bergen

Bergen isn’t exactly free of tourists. But if you’re going to spend time in Norway, this city really does have it all: restaurants, hiking trails, Scandinavian heritage and spectacular views.

While Oslo feels like a modern European city, Bergen feels like a Nordic utopia full of local charm. Though it’s growing in both size and popularity, Bergen manages to maintain the quaint appeal that makes it such a desirable location. Examine the daily catch at the famous fish market, and indulge in everything from fresh caviar to whale sausage.

If you have time, visit BarBarista, a quirky, local café serving the best waffles in town. The kitschy-cool interior may grab your attention, but the honey-coated brie and walnut waffles are what will keep you hanging around.

Ghent

Bergen

Korcula

Bergen

inspiredlivingomaha.com 47

7

Beyond Geneva, there’s Montreux

Though Geneva has bits of charm, it doesn’t compare to the rest of French Switzerland. For a taste of southern Swiss charm, skip Geneva and spend your time in Montreux. The city’s fairytale-like quality makes it an easy place to visit and a hard place to leave. Pedal a rented paddle boat on Lake Geneva and visit the Castle of Chillon, a medieval waterfront fortress that once served as a prison to Lord Byron and other famous figures. Reserve a day to cross the lake and visit Lausanne and the world’s best hot chocolate spot: Chocolaterie Le Barbare.

8

Instead of Helsinki, visit Riga

Nothing against Helsinki, but for people who are looking to explore this part of Northern Europe, it’s best to look across the Baltic Sea. Tallinn, Estonia, often takes the cake as the best place to visit in the region, but if you’re planning to explore the Baltics, there is no better place to set up camp than Riga. Not only is Latvia’s cultural hub full of history and European charm, it’s virtually free of large crowds and rowdy tourists. Romantic street corners, quaint shops and beautiful parks make the city not only a great place to visit, but an awesome place to live. You won’t regret a day trip to Jurmala, an Art Nouveau resort town with sandy beaches only a short drive outside the city.

9

Beyond the Amalfi Coast, there’s Puglia

It may be your dream to visit Cinque Terra, but with the sheer number of tourists that go to the Amalfi Coast every year and the rich experiences the rest of Italy offers, it may be worth reconsidering. Puglia is a region in southeast Italy that’s overflowing with local culture and unforgettable food. If you’re looking for the real Italy, then the small, uncongested towns of the Puglia region may be your best bet. Visit Gallipoli and Lecce – the Venice of the South – followed by a trip to Bari to explore the traditional stone hut trullo cottages. Matera is another must-see for those who appreciate Italian history and architecture. Try to snag a night at the city’s famous cave hotel – Le Grotte della Civita.

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AVIGNON

10 Nice, then Avignon Although the pull of Nice’s Mediterranean beaches (which are rock, by the way) and vibrant streets may sway you, there are more inspiring alternatives in the south of France. Rolling hills, medieval architecture and quality French wine. Sounds pretty idyllic, right? Nestled along the shores of the Rhone River is Avignon, a provincial town in southeastern France. With history dating to the 6th century B.C., the city itself is somewhat of an antiquity.

Neolithic architecture, Roman monuments and a magnificent cathedral in the city center make you feel as though you’ve traveled back in time. Make a point to visit the Palais des Papes and Pont Saint-Benezet – both UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

PUGlia/Cindy Anonsen

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DESTINATION

Nebraska native makes Havana her studio; urban agriculture the subject of her photos Story & PHOTOGRAPHY laura c carlson

L

ast March, I landed with 13 other University of Pennsylvania photography students in Havana, Cuba.

After spending half a semester in the classroom meeting contemporary Cuban artists and activists, presenting research papers and preparing project goals, we arrived both anxious and thrilled.

We had packed for all foreseeable emergencies: Imodium, ibuprofen, antacids, laxatives, water filters and more. We checked three times for packed toothbrushes and contact lens solution. Why? Pharmacies are scarce. We had also stuffed $600 in cash between multiple luggage pockets, because American bank cards don’t work in Cuba.

We each arrived with different objectives: one student was in search of marabou, an invasive plant; another wanted to find El Paquete Semanal, a weekly package of pirated media from the U.S. I went to find the greener side of Havana – urban agriculture and landscape architecture.

My interest stemmed from growing up in Nebraska (Omaha), as well as studying the history of Cuban agriculture.

I gave myself four rules: 1. Accept that you are a tourist.

2. Realize that respect is key.

3. Go where the city leads you.

4. Don’t leave without a tattoo.

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The two-week trip was split into three parts: five nights at Hotel Copacabana in Miramar (west Havana), one night in the agricultural mountain town of Viñales, and seven nights in casa particulares (spare rooms in private homes) in Havana’s Vedado neighborhood, a hub of contemporary Cuban culture.

We arrived at the Copacabana after dark.

Two-dollar mojitos and $1 domestic beers from the hotel bar wooed us as a storm off the coast pummeled the hotel patio. Our faces were damp from the mist of thunderous waves as we stared at the moon and shared our disbelief at the warm tropical March breeze.

Our first tours began at 9 a.m. In conjunction with our education visas, we were required to attend seven days of guided tours with Cuban Education Travel. The tours included the plazas of Old Havana. My favorite was the Plaza De Armas, built in the 1520s. It boasts a wooden street, built because officers couldn’t sleep with the clip-clop of horse hooves on the street stone at night. The Plaza is the most green of Old Havana, with a large park in the center filled with Banyan trees and Royal palms. Market places with books, antiques and souvenirs beckoned.

Throughout the week we visited Callejón de Hamel in Centro Habana, a street completely adorned with murals by prolific artist Salvador González. Once a street that functioned as a space for Afro-Cuban religions in Havana, it is now a hotbed of tourists, including ourselves.

Outside these mandatory tours, my partner in research, Gerardo, and I scoured the city for signs of urban agriculture. Prior to 1990, much of Cuba’s post-colonial agriculture focused on sugarcane exportation, therefore very little food was grown on the island. The island nation relied on its lucrative trade of sugarcane with the USSR for imported food. Following the Soviet Union’s collapse, Cuba fell into a “special period” in which food security was nil.

Cubans quickly began to rehabilitate their soil and work together to grow a myriad of organic crops throughout the country. Havana experienced a boom in urban farms, called organopónicos, now occupying 8 percent of the land in the city.

During our search for flora, we encountered taxi drivers in Viñales who taught us the difference between dormidera, a “sensitive” plant that closes its leaves when you touch it, and “marabou,” an invasive plant.

In Viñales, we visited a farm-to-table restaurant where we literally ate at the farm – by far the best food of our trip.

There were some less-than-ideal experiences. In Havana, I fell hip-deep into a swampy ditch only to have the housekeeper at the casa where we were staying spank me for getting mud on the floor. I grew tired of paying to use the bathroom everywhere, being turned away from urban farms because they were state-owned, and dining on cheap mojitos and pizzas. (Yes, I ate pizza six times in Havana!)

But, I learned how to do my laundry by hand from a Cuban woman via hand gestures alone and danced until I sweat my makeup off in a gay club in Vedado.

After two weeks and one tattoo later, I was sleep deprived, sweaty and ready to go home as I sipped my last Bucanero beer in the Havana International Airport.

See more of laura’s experience – including a photo exhibition, “2017 Havana Studio,” on Instagram, @upennhavana

inspiredlivingomaha.com 51

HOST

StYLING Mark & MIkal Eckstrom, Maison mxm Photography JEFFREY BEBEE ART DIRECTION Heidi THorson LOCATION home of wally & Mindy duff

Pop culture becomes riotous inspiration for a South Beach-inspired tablescape that’s a maximalist’s dream. How many references can you spot in pattern upon pattern upon pattern?

One tribute possibly too obscure to guess: The flamingo vases. They pay homage to the colorful people our stylists have met at Art Basel in Miami Beach and along Collins Avenue and Ocean Drive in Miami. Anything less, darlings, would be a bore!

STYLING INFLUENCES • • • •

The Mike Nichols film, “The Birdcage.”

“Miami Vice,” the television series.

“Grand Theft Auto: Vice City,” the video game.

Italian architect/designer Ettore Sottsass and the 1980s Memphis design movement.

• The Art Deco style of illustrator Patrick Nagel, who worked in blues, pinks and greens.

• The swimming pool at The Raleigh Hotel in Miami Beach.

SOURCES Napkins, table topper, designed by Maison MxM; printed by spoonflower.com | Table linen, melamine dinner plates, designed by Maison MxM; printed by zazzle.com | Flatware, drinkware, flamingo catch-alls (as vases), cb2.com | Metal chairs, target.com | Chair cushions, porcelain flamingo plates, hm.com | Tropical leaves (as place mats) orientaltrading.com

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inspiredlivingomaha.com  53

AU COURANT

Breeze through baggage claim with these eye-catching travel accessories STYLING + Photography Heidi THORSON

DIP-DYED COLOR Use pre-cut tags from a craft store and dip them in alcohol ink. Once dry, print our downloadable contact information sheet. Secure to the back with tape and seal with laminating sheets. Punch a hole and tie on a colored leather ribbon.

ALL IN THE FAMILY A clever use for your annual family photos.

Print, cut and seal with easy laminating sheets. Punch a hole, tie on a leather ribbon and you're all set. There's no way someone else is picking up this luggage by mistake!

WASHI TAPE & WOOD This one is as sturdy as they come. Purchase pre-cut wood squares at a craft store, stamp with your favorite graphic, line with washi tape and spray with sealant. Print our downloadable contact information sheets and secure to the back with packaging tape.

Download our contact information sheets at inspiredlivingomaha.com.

54  july/august 2017

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PROFILE

From airman to Dumpster-diving artist: The unexpected journey of Brother Bartacus Story Kim Carpenter

B

Photography Ryan Soderlin

art Vargas had a confession.

The last six months had brought a great deal of change to his life. Joys, sorrows, trouble finding a job. After deep soul searching, he decided to join a seminary in St. Louis, become a priest and eventually serve a congregation in Africa or South America.

Fittingly, he was already called Brother Bartacus. Now he was going to be Father Bart. Best of all, he would be allowed to keep his dreadlocks, the ones he had been growing for the past two decades that now cascaded well below his waist.

OK. He wasn’t really going to join a seminary. Nor was he heading to Africa or South America. His confession was an elaborate April Fool’s joke he’s been posting on Facebook for the past six years.

Despite its repetition, a lot of people fell for it.

But when he tried the prank again this past April, no one bought it. That’s because Bart, who really is nicknamed Brother Bartacus and does sport impressively long dreads, has a lot to celebrate this year. A three-month exhibition at Fontenelle Forest. His first gallery show in Manhattan. A writeup in Buzzworthy.

And a wedding to the woman it took him a lifetime to find.

Born in Bellevue to what he describes as a “blue collar military family,” he started creating art as soon as he could hold

56 july/august 2017

something in his hands. “Ironically, I was the only one (of four boys) not drawing on the walls.”

He also didn’t know any artists or even realize that art was a vocation, so he did what made sense. He graduated from high school and joined the Air National Guard.

“A lot of kids were planning careers. I never felt I knew what I wanted. All I was really good at and passionate about was drawing and making things.”

He trained at Lackland Air Force Base in Texas and was deployed toward the end of the Bosnian conflict to Istres near the French Riviera. Art worked its way into his subconscious. “It was so quiet and beautiful and reminded me of the Impressionist paintings.”

He stayed with the Air National Guard until he was 25 (he picked up the nickname “Brother Bartacus” from his drinking buddies). He lived what he describes as an “interwoven military and civilian life,” fulfilling his commitment in the National Guard while simultaneously working as a shoe department manager. “That was a miserable experience,” he confesses.

He didn’t sell shoes for long, opting instead for a hodgepodge of other jobs, including working in a mailing center, offering music advice at Borders and driving a warehouse forklift.

It was while doing the latter that Bart finally considered what he really wanted from his life. “One of my bosses asked me what I was doing. He said, ‘You’re smart

enough to be running this place.’ ... I don’t know why he cared, but he did.”

Bart realized then that he lacked personal fulfillment. To find it, he enrolled at the University of Nebraska at Omaha, where he studied sculpture and art history.

Waiting had given him perspective. “I went to college when I was 28. I was 10 years older than everyone else and in a different place on my journey of maturity.

Other students were complaining that their parents weren’t paying for their gas or that they had to write a three-page paper. I thought, ‘I’ll write the paper!’”

Bart did custodial work to pay for the chance to do it, “drinking coffee instead of sleeping” to pay his way. It took him six years, but he finally graduated in 2007 at age 34. “I had decided that if I was going to go to college, I was not quitting.”

He went on to earn an MFA from the University of Minnesota in 2011.

Bart’s custodial work had unanticipated benefits. While clearing out the trash left behind by students, he discovered a way to come by free materials. “The sculpture labs had wood and metal – all the toys – but materials are expensive, so I was diving in Dumpsters and making my work out of trash. I saw people throwing out thousands and thousands of pounds of it – and I had access ... Small things like bottle caps can add up to become one big complex thing!”

What resulted were Bart’s wittily insightful sculptures like “E-Waste” skulls and globes fashioned from keyboard keys,

floating “Bottle Balls” made from colored plastic bottles and his series of “Golden Dolls,” portmanteaus created from thrift store castoffs.

Bart also uses bold geometric shapes and vibrant colors to create painting series with names like “Portals,” “Mandalas” and “Clusters.” “Everything gets into my subconscious,” he says, joking that often paint even finds its way onto his dreadlocks.

“Sometimes it isn’t until two years later that I see that patterns, places, people and random facts have ended up in my work.

There are a lot of themes of repetition and playfulness.”

Following grad school, Bart headed to the Shangyuan Art Museum in Beijing, where he lived and developed his work further as an artist-in-residence. “I went from being around hundreds of people and being intellectually stimulated to being with just 30 other guys I couldn’t talk to – but I learned to count in Mandarin.”

After China, Bart returned to Omaha and began forging a career as a full-time artist. He teaches regularly at Metropolitan Community College and UNO. He shows his work in galleries in Kolkata, India; Oaxaca, Mexico; and Gimpo, South Korea. (“My work is better traveled than I am,” he jests.) He’s received awards and garnered more residencies (the most recent one last year at El Museo Latino

in South Omaha). And a decade after first diving into trash bins to make his art, his work appeared on “The Real Housewives of Orange County” and in the exhibition “From Waste to Art” in Baku, Azerbaijan, where he ended up at a Lady Gaga concert.

“Life as an artist is surreal,” he says. “Who would have thought my work or I would have ended up in those places?”

He also never expected to get married. In March 2016 Bart was attending a writing workshop at the Omaha Creative Institute when a woman with short blonde hair captured his attention. “I saw a woman wearing a red leather jacket telling a story,” the artist recounts. “I thought, ‘Who is she?’ That’s the part of the universe I want to be next to!”

Her name was Bekah, and he discovered they had been orbiting each other for years, often hanging out with the same people.

That week they went out three times, and, Bart says, were “100

percent into seeing where things were heading.”

Bart proposed in December saying, “I met you nine months ago. In nine months people can make a life. Would you like to continue building a life with me?’’

In September, the couple will marry in Zeona, South Dakota, and then have a big bash in Omaha.

This, he knows, is why people didn’t believe his April Fool’s joke.

“It’s Brother Bartacus, not Father Bart,” he says with a smile. “Most days I get up in the morning, and I don’t know what the hell I’m doing – but I’m incredibly blessed.”

inspiredlivingomaha.com 57

THE HIDDEN PANTRY

Recipes + photography Chad lebo

I

n the official Hallmark list of anniversary gifts, there are some perplexing suggestions. For a sixth anniversary, as a fine example, it recommends giving your eternal love “candy/iron.” One hopes those are mutually exclusive.

If my wife were in charge of that list, I can say with great certainty that it would consist almost entirely of various sandwiches. (And a peppering of stackable storage containers. She does love to organize.)

Loving sandwiches is nothing distinct.

Travel the world over and find some sort of bread filled with some sort of filling. Bahn mi in Vietnam. Doner kebabs in Turkey.

Or a pastrami on rye in New York City piled so skyward it doesn’t take an appetite to eat it as much as a strategy and no fear of heights.

Culinary travels in our featured recipes will take us from the Caribbean, over to Europe and then south to Africa.

We will start with a Cuban sandwich.

Not “that” Cuban sandwich, but “a” Cuban sandwich. The headliner ham, pork, Swiss cheese and pickle Cuban Sandwich is a culinary mustard-piece, but there is another, albeit slightly odder, sandwich waiting in the wings.

The Elena Ruz doesn’t have much name recognition, but it does have great taste and superb texture. The classic version is simply a toasted sandwich with turkey, strawberry jam and cream cheese. And the name? Well, most likely named for a Havana socialite who would order it off-menu at the El Carmelo Restaurant in the 1920s.

On to France. If I ever open a sandwich

58 july/august 2017

shop, the menu board will most definitely feature the Mr. Crunchy. That is the literal translation of Croque Monsieur, France’s delectable answer to the ham and cheese.

It's slightly more work than just whipping up a toasted cheese, but worth it. Top with a fried egg, et voilà, it is now a Croque Madame. Plate them together, as I did, and you have a sort of “French American Gothic,” with woman on the left, man on the right and a (pitch) fork in the middle.

It is a stretch to say a sandwich can define a culture, but they are assuredly distinct and beloved parts of a region’s culture. Try telling an Eagles fan how good the cheesesteaks are in Omaha compared to his Philly and see how that goes. But when cultures collide, so do sandwiches.

Colonization certainly counts as colli-

sion, and the French-influenced Vietnamese bahn mi is perhaps the best example. Not the only one, though.

France also ruled Madagascar for about 70 years and left behind the baguette. It is by far the most common wheat bread on the island and is used for a lot of portable treats, including the sandwich Américan which features a slice of bologna, a few niblets of canned corn, a small piece of wilted lettuce and a wisp of mayonnaise.

My preferred Madagascar baguette sandwich, though, is the vegetarian-but-filling mofo salade composée, Malagasy-French for mixed salad sandwich.

Give these recipes a try and travel the world one sandwich at a time. Or two at a time. You do have two hands.

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Croque Monsieur

Makes 4 servings

Basically a fancy ham and cheese sandwich. Topped with just cheese, it is a Croque Monsieur; topped instead with a fried egg, it transforms into a Croque Madame. Great for brunch or for dinner with a salad. Too much bread can make this a tough sandwich. I prefer a good savory sourdough, like rosemary or garlic, but cut into very thin slices.

For extra flavor, consider a smear of Dijon mustard or even hot sauce on the bread.

Sandwich 1. Make Mornay sauce (below) and keep warm.

2. Spread butter on both sides of 8 thin slices of bread. Toast each slice on both sides until browned in a skillet or on a baking sheet in a 425 F oven.

3. Briefly fry 8 oz. of thinly sliced ham until warmed and very lightly browned.

4. Preheat broiler and assemble sandwiches. From bottom to top: piece of toasted bread, layer of Mornay sauce, ham,

another layer of Mornay sauce, toasted bread, and topped with a final smear of Mornay sauce and grated gruyère or other good melting cheese.

5. Heat under broiler for just a few minutes until top is bubbly and lightly browned. Optional: serve topped with sunny side egg.

Mornay Sauce 1. Melt 1½ tablespoons unsalted butter in saucepan over medium heat.

2. Add 1½ tablespoons flour and stir until evenly mixed and lightly browned, about 2 minutes.

3. Whisk in 1 cup whole milk and stir until thickened and sauce coats the back of spoon.

4. Remove from heat and add 4 oz. good melting cheese. Stir until melted and mixed. Return to heat if needed to fully melt.

Season with black pepper. For cheeses, try gruyère, Swiss, fontina, comté or provolone.

Optional: Make extra and add to hot pasta for a fantastic mac and cheese.

Elena Ruz

The other Cuban sandwich. OK, one of many Cuban sandwiches. Easy to make, versatile enough for breakfast, brunch, lunch, teatime or even dinner. Add some punch and replace the traditional strawberry jam with hot pepper jelly or try a savory toasted onion bun.

1. For each sandwich, you need 1 tablespoon strawberry jam, 1 tablespoon plain cream cheese, 4 oz. thinly sliced turkey, and 1 bun.

2. Spread jam on one half of the bun and cream cheese on the other. Layer the turkey slices in the middle.

3. Best grilled in a thick skillet like a panini.

Press as you toast each side of sandwich until crispy. The crunch makes a nice contrast to the very creamy filling. (Can also be toasted in hot oven.) Best warm, but room temperature also works.

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French-inspired Madagascar street food that simply translates to “mixed salad sandwich.” Add a bit of kick and top with hot sauce and chopped cilantro. Also good with a hard-boiled egg on the side or even sliced and laid in the sandwich. Best to let the sandwich sit a bit after stuffing to allow baguette to soften.

Sandwich 1. Cut a baguette into 6-inch slices and split pieces lengthwise without cutting all the way though (think hotdog bun).

2. Fill with a helping of potato salad, simple oil-dressed pasta salad and a bright salad of shredded carrots and shallots dressed with vinegar (recipe follows). Skip any mayonnaise or dressing. The salads are an all-in-one filling.

Madagascar-Style Carrot Salad 1. In medium saucepan, bring to a boil: 2 cups shredded carrots, 1 cup white vinegar, 1 shallot finely sliced, 1 tablespoon sugar and ½ teaspoon salt.

2. Boil for 2-3 minutes.

3. Remove from saucepan to bowl and refrigerate until cooled. Store in jar in fridge.

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