A SEA OF DUNES

STORY CHRIS CHRISTEN PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CHRISTEN + KURT A. KEELER

We’ve been going to Colorado for decades. But always to the same familyconnected places: Estes Park, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado Springs, Guffey near Cripple Creek.

In early September, a seven-day vacation under pandemic conditions had us headed that direction again. But this time my husband suggested an addition to our itinerary: Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve near Alamosa.

I was game to see North America’s tallest dunes — even though it meant a five-hour drive south from Estes Park with not much sightseeing in between.

Kurt was careful not to oversell the dunes. He feared I might be underwhelmed. He had worried unnecessarily.

The drive through the foothills of the Front Range was varied and scenic. The dunes were 10 times better than imagined. I wished our time in the park could have been longer — three hours wasn’t nearly enough, even on an 80-degree day with a woefully slim supply of bottled water in our backpacks.

The Great Sand Dunes are a geological wonder. Estimated to be 440,000 years old, they’re continually being shaped by the forces of wind and water between the San Juan Mountains and the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

The basic explanation is that over time, opposing winds, a huge supply of sand from the valley floor, and the sand recycling action of two nearby creeks caused the dunes to push back on themselves and grow vertically, some rising 750 feet.

Thirty square miles of this sandy wilderness is mind-boggling. About a

What: Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, Mosca, Colorado Hours: The park is open 24 hours a day, year-round. Visitor center hours vary by season. Check the website for temporary impacts of the pandemic. Park activities: Each season offers unique experiences, from wildlife- sightings (black bear, elk, bobcat and bighorn sheep) to dune hikes after dark (no flashlights required under a full moon on a cloudless night!). Good to know: There weren’t many tourists on our stop during the pandemic. Given the expanse of the dunefield, everyone can feel safe. For those with mobility issues, the park service offers free fat-tire wheelchairs for exploring into the dunes. Day pass: $25 per vehicle General information: 719-378-6300, nps.gov/grsa; Visitor Center & Park Service, 719-378-6395

Don’t rely on GPS here! The only paved-highway access is via U.S. 160 and Colorado 150 from the south, or Colorado 17 and County Lane 6 from the west.

half-mile into the dunefield, I had the sense of being lost in a desert. Trails are non-existent; you simply roam — with no lingering footprints to retrace your route. Depth perception is a mind game, too. Those pin dots on the horizon? Hikers and sand boarders, plus spikes of vegetation, along the ridges.

My husband visited years ago and remembered crossing water between the parking lot and the approach of the

dunes. We were bewildered until we crossed a swath of grainy, pebbly sand. Aha! The creek bed — dry as a bone. Medano Creek’s flow is seasonal, generally April through June or July.

The ecosystem ranges from wetlands to forest to tundra, providing lots of options for camping, hiking and photography. If you have one or two days, you can explore the peaks and valleys of the dunefield, follow Medano Creek upstream toward the mountains and then head for Zapata Falls Recreation Area just outside the park for a panoramic sunset view of the sea of dunes.

For serious hikers, there’s a 5-hour trek (round-trip) to Star Dome, the highest of the dunes. With a free permit you can backpack in for a surreal overnight adventure on the summit.

The Medano Pass road is rough and rugged and limited to 4WD vehicles only. Soft sand, creek crossings and rocks provide the thrill. Jeep rentals are available;

but if you’re inexperienced in offroad driving, opt for an escorted tour.

Or just spend the day sand sledding or sand boarding. It’s the all-ages thing to do. Rentals are available from spring through early fall from four or five sources outside the park.

Guide books call Great Sand Dunes one of the best locations in the United States to enjoy the night sky. To see the most stars, plan your outing on a clear moonless night. But watch your step

on the dunes: nocturnal creatures are out roaming, too. Tiger salamanders, kangaroo rats and giant crickets emerge at dusk to feed and find mates!

A camera is a must for capturing the evocative wind-sculpted landscape and abstract shapes in the sand. Our SLRs were glued to our faces in an ongoing contest for “Photo of the Day.”

Feeling a bit like Clark Griswold’s desert scene in “National Lampoon’s Vacation,” Kurt and I were ready for, in this

» Elevations range from 7,500 to nearly 14,000 feet. If you’re a flatlander, give yourself time to acclimate before setting out on a vigorous hike. Drink lots of water and carry dark chocolate — eating a bit helps with lightheadedness. » Sand temperatures can reach 150 F in summer. Closed-toe shoes are a must. Sneakers work best; trekking through sand is a workout. If you’re hiking with a pet, protect its feet as well and pack a dish for water. » Weekends in late May and June are crowded; midweek is the better choice. Avoid July for the mosquitoes. September brings the best weather and aspen color; November, elk herds.

Alamosa, Colorado

Rio Grande National Forest San Isabel National Forest Sangre de Cristo Mountains San Luis Lakes State Wildlife Area Baca National Wildlife Refuge

order, an ice-cold beverage, food, and fuel for the car. We found our “oasis” 30 miles away in Alamosa, a Spanish-influenced town with a respectable business district and, to our end, The San Luis Brewing Company and Restaurant at the corner of Main and San Juan. An interesting bar (the open vault of this former bank), a friendly sidewalk patio, and one of the best hamburgers we’ve had on the road. A perfect spot after a day of play in the Great Sand Dunes.