okra. Issue 10, 2020 Preview

o k r a.

R E A L

S O U T H E R N

T

ISSUE NO. 10T

C U L T U R E

PRESERVING

Display until May 29, 2020

Display Until April 30, 2019

HERITAGE APPLES Rush against time to save Appalachia’s lost apples THE EXAMINER Saving Alabama’s diverse culture

WILD EARTH Serving up more than beans on a ranch in Texas GRASSROOTS GAMING America’s favorite farm to table board game

2020

The World’s Best Ham the center of traditions since 1957 At The Honey Baked Ham Company, we take great pride in serving the World’s Best Ham. For over 60 years we’ve worked hard to perfect the legendary taste that everyone knows and loves. Handcrafted the old fashioned way, each ham is smoked for up to 24 hours over our unique blend of hardwood chips, spiral-sliced for easy serving and finished with our signature sweet, crunchy glaze. The result - every rich and flavorful bite is fall-apart-in-your-mouth perfect. Whether it’s for spring celebrations like Easter, to casual backyard barbecues and cherished dinners with friends; we’re honored to be a centerpiece on your table. Enjoy!

deliver 15% off Scan here to shop online

CALL 800.367.2426 HONEYBAKEDONLINE.COM

Get-together with HoneyBaked

“Celebrate”

50: APPLE HUNTER Tom Brown’s quest to save Appalachia’s heritage apples

60: ALABAMA EXAMINER

Joey Brackner is preserving the state’s diverse culture and folklore

STORIES

68: THE GOOD ROAD

Finding community, culture and compassion in some of the worlds toughest places

Three generations of cattlemen breed award winning cattle

Photography by ClarkandCompany

78: IN THE SHOW

CHAPTERS EDITORIAL

TO DINE SOUTHERN

PG 8: EDITOR’S LETTER

PG 32: THE SOUTHERN TABLE

It’s important to preserve our heritage

A new take on a family cake passed down from generation to generation

PG 10: OUR CONTRIBUTORS

PG 37: GATHERINGS

The people who make our stories come to life

Family and friends gather for a meal on the ranch

PG 12: MAKING A DIFFERENCE Providing unlimited opportunities for the disabled to participate in outdoor activites

PG 42: COOKING WITH

PG 120: MAGEE’S SOUTHERN ACCENT

PG 44: ON OUR PL ATE

Seeking the South with Chef Rob Newton A European respite in the Mississippi Delta

Life in the South is fully lived. Take the journey with friends and family and discover the joy.

PG 46: IN OUR GL ASS

Resurrecting a classic drink in Austin, Texas

42

122

28 SOUTHERN COMFORTS

A ROAD LESS TRAVELED

PG 16: GRASSROOTS GAMING

PG 108: WANDERING

The South’s farm-to-table board game

A breathtaking hike on North Carolina’s Whiteside Mountain

PG 20: BY SOUTHERN HANDS You’ll want these finds made by locals

88

PG 24: PAGES

North Carolina apple farmer harvest stories from rural life in the Blue Ridge Mountains

PG 26: LISTEN UP

Sadler Vaden steps out from Jason Isbell’s band

SOUTHERN SNAPSHOTS

PG 28: LOOK FOR

Kentucky’s Kelsey Waldon’s fierce determination and truckload of talent create a rising star

PG 114: FIND YOURSELF

What to do in Asheville, North Carolina

PG 117: SOMETHING ELSE

Jackson, Mississippi’s St. Patrick’s Day parade started as a silly idea

PG 122: WHERE WE WENT

“Ham for Hamlet” - an innovation in theatre

PG 88: ALONG THE ROAD

Vera Stewart helps kids get their hands dirty in the kitchen with her cooking camp

PG 94: SOUTHERN C HARACTER

West Virginia’s Klines are listening for a change

PG 96: L AY OF THE L AND

Our readers submit photos of their special Southern places and people

FRONT COVER

Preserving Appalachia’s lost apples Photography by mythja

5

STAFF Scott Speakes Publisher Genie Gaither Jones Editor-in-Chief Rebecca Cashwell Design Director Steve Ransom Digital Imaging Specialist Tom Ramsey Matthew Magee J. M. McSpadden Liesel Schmidt Contributing Editors Richard L. Jones Copy Editor

Advertising Sales Specialists Kris Schultz North Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia kschultz@cherokeemediagroup.com Brittany Sanders Alabama, Arkansas, Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, Louisiana, Mississippi, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas brmcdonald45@gmail.com All other requests Scott Speakes scott@okramagazine.com

CONNECT WITH US facebook.com/okramagazine @okramag contact@okramagazine.com

Photography by wonry

Published by Southbound Publishing, Inc. Located in the Mississippi Delta

okramagazine.com

EDITOR’S LETTER

“Our traditions, in all their forms, bring us together like nothing else. They unite us in powerful ways,” says Joey Brackner, director of the Alabama Center for Traditional Culture.

Some of us go to great lengths–unimaginable lengths–to save our traditions, or heritage. Many of us may feel some of these things are silly. Some would question why we care about saving old apple varieties or showing cows, of all things. We can clearly see the importance of preserving heritage sites to help sustain the local economy. But if we look deeper, our heritage and traditions provide a sense of identity and continuity–whether through objects or culture– for future generations to learn from.

We have all experienced historic preservation of old houses, buildings or places–they provide links to the roots of the community and its people. It adds to the quality of life making for a more viable community.

Its conservation is important for identifying,

“ TRADITION IS A GUIDE AND NOT A JAILER.” W. Somerset Maugham

recording, analyzing and protecting those resources.

Likewise, our cultural traditions can pro-

vide an immediate sense of unity and belonging and allows us to better understand previous generations and the history of where we come from. Understanding our cultural heritage can give us a sense of personal identity.

Our traditions help us understand our ancestral values and makes us unique from other parts of the world. They remind us that we are part of a history that defines our past, shapes who we are today and who we are likely to become. They guide us but we should not allow them to restrict us from growing. As W. Somerset Maugham said, they are “not a jailer.”

Examining the folklore of Alabama, Joey Brackner sees our heritage sitting on the shoulders of each new generation, and he’s comfortable with that. “I’m seeing young people very interested in these things, looking for and appreciating the significance of folklore and the many things we’ve collectively created,” he says. “I see people wanting to connect with it where it happened and where it is happening. I don’t think interest is lessening at all; I think there is actually a real thirst for it.”

Our traditions, folklore and cultural heritage show us our place in the world. They give us a way to examine the way our history has shaped us and use that knowledge to plan for what lies ahead. But most importantly, they show us that it’s best to walk this path together.

Scott Speakes // Publisher

8 okramagazine.com

ISSUE NO. 10

Genie Gaither Jones // Editor-in-Chief

“making culinary memories with those you love! ”

Currently in its 8th Season in 20 metropolitan markets, The VeryVera Show combines Vera Stewart’s natural teaching ability with reminders to use our manners and with modern suggestions to add a new twist to your grandmother’s favorite recipes.

MAR K E T S GA : Albany • Augusta • Columbus • Cordele • Macon • Savannah • SC : Myrtle Beach • Charleston • Greenville FL : Tampa • Pensacola • AL : Mobile • Huntsville • Dothan • IN : Indianapolis • MD : Hagerstown NY : Watertown • LA : Lake Charles • MS : Jackson • Hattiesburg • TX : Victoria

veryvera.com

CONTRIBUTORS

JENNIFER STEWART KORNEGAY is a freelance writer and editor based in Montgomery, AL. Her work has appeared in Garden & Gun, Southern Living, The Bitter Southerner, The Local Palate, thekitchn. com, Bake From Scratch, Paste, Travel&Leisure.com, Nashville Lifestyles, Birmingham magazine, Alabama magazine, Georgia Magazine, Alabama Living magazine and more. She’s interested in everything, will write about almost anything but most often reports on Southern culture, food and travel. jenniferkornegay.com

SEAN MEYERS is a seasoned photojournalist with 30 years of experience working as anewspaper, editorial and commercial photographer. With roots anchored across the country, Sean now resides in historic Salisbury, NC with his theatre professor wife and their 9-year-old daughter, including numerous cats, dogs, chickens and aquatic creatures.

With a talent for “capturing the moment”, Sean consistently brings unique and professional images to his clients with work that incorporates palpable isolation, unique angles, and unusual depth to convey a sense of candor and simplicity. seanmeyersphotography.com

ERIC J. WALLACE is a writer, avid lover of the outdoors, and devotee to the ongoing search for the Good Life. His work has appeared in many noteworthy publications, including Outside, Backpacker, Canoe & Kayak, WIRED, Atlas Obscura, Modern Farmer and more. He is a contributing editor for the internet’s greatest fount of culinary wonder, Gastro Obscura. drericjwallace@gmail.com ALICIA A. PORTER grew up in Georgia surrounded by wonderful Southern cooks and colorful storytellers, giving her a taste for the perfect biscuits and an ear for tales. Her travels across the world with her adventurous god-mother added to a pursuit of the true culture of any place. Professional play therapist by trade, writer by desire and mom to Sarah Elizabeth. Her glass is always half-full and her table always open to one more.

10 okramagazine.com

ISSUE NO. 10

MATTHEW WOOD was born and raised in the Mississippi Delta and has always had a passion for the arts. In the fall of 2012, he moved to Tuscaloosa to work as a photographer for the University of Alabama. Although Matthew now lives in Tuscaloosa, the Delta will always be home and has forever shaped his perspective of the world. matthewgwood.com

APRIL 4-5 • 2020 A JURIED FINE ARTS FESTIVAL

Featuring approximately 100 artists from across America, live music and children’s art activities

APRIL 3-5 WEEKEND ALSO INCLUDES Friday Evening, April 3 PRE-EVENT KICK OFF PARTY Dr. Zarr’s Amazing Funk Monster Band Run Now Wine Later 5k Saturday Evening, April 4 SANTÉ SOUTH WINE FESTIVAL All Weekend, April 3-5 CHEERS & GEARS BIKE RIDE

RENAISSANCE AT COLONY PARK

Southeast Tourism Society’s Top 20 Events Champion

Southern Travel Treasure

by AAA’s Southern Traveler

R I D G E L A N D A R T S F E S T. C O M

MAKING A DIFFERENCE

“ “

WE’RE ABOUT GETTING FOLKS OUTSIDE AND MAKING THEM FEEL THEY’VE BECOME PART OF A TEAM.

12 okramagazine.com

ISSUE NO. 10

Life Without Limits

PROVIDING UNLIMITED OPPORTUNITIES FOR THE D I S A B L E D TO PA R T I C I PAT E I N O U T D O O R AC T I V I T E S Written by Liesel Schmidt / Photography Courtesy of Outdoors Without Limits They say that to truly understand a person, you must walk a mile in their shoes, but it wasn’t until Kirk Thomas was actually unable to walk that he gained his profound understanding for people and just what his life was destined for.

An avid sportsman who had been a football player throughout his college career, Thomas never gave much thought to his mobility or independence until one fateful day in November of 1992, when a falling tree struck him as he was heading back to his truck after a morning deer hunt. That blow sent him flying through the air, landing him on his back and leaving him with a crushed spine and multiple internal injuries that required operations, time in the hospital, and rehab. Even so, the 6-foot-5 33 year-old Thomas was faced with the truth that he would spend the rest of his life in a wheelchair as a T-12 paraplegic.

As someone with determination, grit, responsibility to family, and extreme faith, Thomas knew that this was not the end for him, but the beginning. He went back to his job as a heavy equipment salesman as soon as he could and pushed himself to the limit to regain his strength so that he could adapt to his new way of life. And through it all, he found a renewed purpose that ultimately led him to create Wheelin’ Sportsmen of America, an organization that hosted disabled people at fishing and hunting events by pairing them with able-bodied volunteers. His efforts quickly gained nationwide recognition, and it was only a matter of time before he began speaking all across the U.S., promoting Wheelin’ Sportsmen and recreational opportunities for disabled people. Thomas soon caught the attention of the National Wild Turkey Federation’s (NWTF), and Wheelin’ Sportsmen became an official outreach program of the Federation in 2000.

From there, Thomas grew Wheelin’ Sportsmen from a grassroots organization to a nationwide network that was able to offer participation in outdoor events to thousands of disabled people across the country. Thomas soon became a well-respected leader in the outdoor world, winning numerous awards and honors for his work on behalf of individuals with disabilities, even going so far as to testify at the Congressional level. He has chaired numerous hearings to open up new opportunities for disabled sportsmen and has become known as an exceptional motivational speaker by sharing his personal story at events all across the nation.

But even with so much to be proud of, Thomas knew he was not finished.

There was still more for him to do, more doors for him to open. And so, in 2009, he stepped down from his position of leadership at Wheelin’ Sportsmen to found Outdoors Without Limits, an organization much like WS in its vision of providing opportunities to disabled individuals but in a much more

focused way, opening chapters at the community level.

“Chapters have the opportunity to focus their attention and efforts on providing disabled individuals opportunities within their own communities,” explains Thomas. “We’re totally inclusive, and we encourage everyone to get involved—disabled or non-disabled. However, our core mission is to provide people with disabilities the opportunity to participate in outdoor-related opportunities.”

Driven by their determination to serve people rather than by the dollar, membership at OWL is an elective, opening involvement to anyone and everyone who wishes to participate. Especially for those without the financial means to take part in OWL’s events and activities, this is something that opens the world immeasurably.

What sets OWL apart and makes it so amazing is the very fact of inclusivity and the ways that they truly make anyone and everyone—regardless of age or physical ability—feel welcome and part of the family. They allow the world of outdoor sports to be accessible, offering everything from hiking and camping to hunting and fishing. There’s nothing that seems out of the realm of possibility, even for those who might have imagined that their days spent outside in nature were over. For Thomas, the smell of fresh air, the sound of bird calls, the feel of the sun on your back, and the thrill of the hunt is something that everyone should be able to enjoy, and OWL makes that fully possible.

By design, their programs are varied to reach the needs and interests of their prospective outdoorsmen, offering events tailored to individuals such as wounded and disabled military veterans, children, and senior citizens, giving them the chance to engage in outdoor-related activities with other individuals with disabilities as well as those who are able bodied. It’s an enriching experience for everyone, an eye-opening opportunity that reaches the heart, the soul, the mind, and the body in ways that many other activities cannot. Connecting with others at the same time as connecting with nature and being given such an amazing sense of freedom is the gift that OWL gives, and that has resulted in exponential growth over the past ten years, expanding its chapters all over the country.

“We’re not simply an organization focused on hunting and fishing—we’re about getting folks outside and making people feel as though they’ve become one of our family members and are a part of a team,” says Thomas.

“Simply put, I see OWL as a life-changing, life-saving organization for everyone who becomes involved, and we take pride in that.”

For more information on how to get involved, participate, or donate to Outdoors Without Limits, visit outdoorswithoutlimits.net

13

She can’t see. She can’t hear.

SHE CAN’T WAIT TO GET TO WORK

Meet Barbara. She and her co-workers at Alabama Industries for the Blind make all the military neckties for our U. S. Armed Forces.

“I love my job!

It gives me a sense of pride – and I can travel and do things for my family,” says Barbara with her infamous smile. Alabama Industries for the Blind is the state’s largest employer of blind adults. It is one of many life and job training opportunities available through the Alabama Institute for Deaf and Blind that serves over 26,000 infants, children, adults and seniors with hearing and vision loss in Alabama.

At Alabama Institute for Deaf and Blind, our students of all ages combine imagination with the right tools to prove to themselves and others that they are indeed limitless!

WWW.AIDB.ORG

LIKE US ON FACEBOOK

FIVE CAMPUSES IN TALLADEGA: ALABAMA SCHOOL FOR THE DEAF, ALABAMA SCHOOL FOR THE BLIND, HELEN KELLER SCHOOL OF ALABAMA, E. H. GENTRY FACILITY, ALABAMA INDUSTRIES FOR THE BLIND EIGHT REGIONAL CENTERS LOCATED IN: BIRMINGHAM, DOTHAN, HUNTSVILLE, MOBILE, MONTGOMERY, TALLADEGA, TUSCALOOSA AND TUSCUMBIA I OUTREACH PROGRAMS FOR STATEWIDE PUBLIC SCHOOLS

CHAPTER 1

SOUTHERN COMFORTS

15

SOUTHERN COMFORTS

G I F T S

GRASSROOTS GAMING WHAT BEGAN AS A BET BETWEEN FRIENDS IS NOW AMERICA’S FAVORITE FARM-TO-TABLE BOARD GAME. Written by Eric J. Wallace / Photography Courtesy of Chickapig Rockbridge Guitar Company co-founder and luthier, Brian Calhoun, sits at a

around a zany farm theme, players or teams had to use strategy to help their

2013 Thanksgiving party suffering an unanticipated gauntlet of boardgames

flock of hybridized swine escape the barnyard. Along the way, they dodged op-

with friends and their preteen children. He slaps bubbles, rolls dice, moves

ponents’ attacks and inbuilt missives like pooping cows and falling hay bales.

pieces along rote cardboard routes—all the while feigning enthusiasm, biting

Pieces moved in a manner that combined checkers and chess. Additional nu-

his tongue. But the frustration is mounting.

ance came from a timer and cards that brought good and bad consequences.

“This was supposed to be a fun and interactive activity that included every-

Calhoun made a playdate with the bettor and his family. The results were

body,” says Calhoun, 36, a lover of chess who has no children of his own. “But

unanimous: Everyone agreed, Chickapig was smart, wholesome, entertaining,

the kid-themed stuff was so insultingly stu-

and fantastically special. The friend paid

pid and boring. It was unbearable.”

up—and begged to keep the game.

But the story doesn’t end there. The

Finally, the anticlimax of a particularly

chum in question just so happened to be

egregious offender sparks a blowup.

“I start ranting about how, with mind-

Dave Matthews, who has been playing Cal-

less entertainment like this, no wonder kids

houn’s guitars since the mid-alts. The mu-

spend so much time staring at screens,”

sician fell in love with Chickapig and calls

Calhoun recalls with a laugh. “Next thing

it “a fun and challenging breath of mental

I know, I’m vowing to invent a game that

fresh air for kids and adults alike.” He part-

‘blows this crap out the water.’”

nered with Calhoun to bring the game to

His pals believed differently. “They were

market in 2017, “because I thought this

like, ‘Dude, you make guitars, what do you

was something families everywhere should

know about boardgames?’” says Calhoun,

be able to easily get their hands on.”

whom responded with a cash wager. Most

An ensuing grassroots marketing cam-

shrugged and changed the subject. One,

paign brought the game to bars and

however, accepted and started talking de-

classrooms throughout Virginia, and won

liverables. “But really, he was just hoping to have some fun at my expense: He

endorsements from the Virginia Institute of Autism. A cult-like following led

figured I’d forget and he’d be able to call me out.”

to a deal with national distributer, Buffalo Games, in 2018. This past year,

Instead, Calhoun approached the project like a serious hobby. He set up a

Chickapig was nominated for a Toy of the Year Award and won the National

workstation in his kitchen and began tinkering at night after work. He bought

Parenting Product Award. More than 7 million copies have been sold to date.

top-rated games and analyzed rulebooks, conceits and mechanisms of play.

He doodled anthropomorphic farm animals, constructed storylines, carved wooden pieces by hand, brainstormed ways to boost social interaction during gameplay, and more.

Within a few months, he’d created a new game called Chickapig. Centered

Similar to its conception, for Chickapig, the road to success was far from conventional.

“This wasn’t something I’d never intended to commercialize,” says Calhoun.

“The game started as a personal challenge and would-be joke on my friends. I figured I’d make a few copies, give them away as presents, and that would be

17

SOUTHERN COMFORTS

“THE GAME HAD TO HAVE AN INDY, HANDMADE EVERYTHING TO BE that.” However, the game’s reception changed things.

“We sold through that first run almost instantly and got an obscene num-

“I realized people were getting really, really excited about it,” says Cal-

ber of backorders,” says Calhoun. A second wave of production brought

houn. Families were playing when he wasn’t around. Others threw Chicka-

1,000 games. A third, double that. “And the same thing kept happening.

pig parties. Purchase inquiries streamed in by way of emails to Rockbridge

Which was pretty incredible considering we didn’t have a website, or, for

Guitar Co.

that matter, an official email address.”

“Honestly, the response took me by surprise and created a pretty serious

By 2015, Chickapig had gained a regional cult following. Gaming tents

personal conflict,” Calhoun confides. “On one hand, I loved the game and

appeared at local music festivals like The Festy at Devil’s Backbone and

was stoked people were enjoying it. But on the other, I didn’t anticipate

other community events. Kids were founding competitive club-teams at

taking orders, much less trying to put together a whole bunch of these

public and private schools. Adult enthusiasts started a weekly meetup at

things.”

Charlottesville brewpub, Kardinal Hall, that drew crowds of 100-plus play-

Building high-end acoustic guitars for prestigious clients like Warren Haynes, Matthews, Brandi Carlile, Keith Urban, Richie Sambora and others was demanding enough. Could Calhoun really afford to devote time and energy to making boardgames?

ers—and inspired owners to hire Calhoun to make table-sized, magnetic boards for the house.

Matthews partnered with Calhoun to ramp up production and marketing in 2017. The result was a year-long tour where former U.S. junior

The insistence of friends like Matthews helped him turn the corner.

chess prodigy, Judah Brownstein, traveled the country putting on Chick-

“They went out of their way to convince me Chickapig had real value,

apig events in schools, community centers, and bars. Meanwhile, games

that it was important,” says Calhoun. Kids were eschewing screen-time in

were donated to elementary and middle schools throughout Virginia. The

favor of the game—and convincing parents to join in. Adults had, in turn,

efforts attracted the attention of Buffalo Games and led to a licensing deal

adapted it as a party favorite. “When Dave said, ‘Chickapig is the next Mo-

in 2018—which soon brought shelf space at mega-retailers like Target,

nopoly,’ that was flattering. But when he said, ‘Look, my kids introduce this

Walmart and Amazon, among others.

to all their friends, and they play for hours at a time. Every one of those kids

“I’m very proud to have been able to play a role in advancing Chickapig,”

wants to bring Chickapig home to their families. But they can’t, because

says Matthews, whom had a magnetic board installed on his tour bus.

these are the only copies in existence.’ That altered my perspective; that

The game is super fun and lighthearted, “but has these awesome social

motivated me to turn Chickapig into a real business.”

and critical-thinking elements too. To me, it’s just a brilliant, contemporary

As with development, Calhoun approached scaling up like a hobby. He started with an experimental run of 200 games in 2014. Because the first

variation on a number of very traditional ideas. And my family, for one, has very much enjoyed having it in our lives.”

iterations had been handmade and individually unique, their manufacture

The national attention has led Calhoun to expand the brand. Noticing

was grossly inefficient. Calhoun’s first task, therefore, was standardizing

how kids that were too young to play interacted with the characters, he

Chickapig to make it easier to reproduce.

penned a nursery-age book, Little Joe Chickapig—which tells a story about

“But it had to have an Indy, handmade feel to it,” says Calhoun. “And I wanted everything to be made in America.”

following your dreams. A game for such players, Chickapiglets, followed last July.

After much consultation, he partnered with a number of Charlottes-

“To know these games are bringing some small sliver of happiness to

ville-area companies. They worked with him to create designs for laser-cut

kids and families, and making their lives just a little bit brighter?” says

wooden playing discs stamped with hand-drawn art. Next came matching

Calhoun. “I can’t describe how rewarding that is. When I look back over

burlap bags for storage, playing cards, dice, boards, boxes and manuals.

the craziness of these past few years, that sense of satisfaction makes the

Lastly, Calhoun enlisted his mom and a few friends to handle packaging

long hours and missed weekends seem well worth it.”

and shipping.

chickapig.com

Top left: Chickapig has gained a cult following with kids form competitive gaming clubs to play the game. Center left: Calhoun insisted the game have an indie handmade look about it as to the game. A timer can also be used to allow for a faster paced game. Bottom right: Friends and business partners Dave Matthews and Brian Calhoun. Top right: Brian Calhoun and

18 okramagazine.com

ISSUE NO. 10

FEEL TO IT,” SAYS CALHOUN. “AND I WANTED MADE IN AMERICA.”

well as made in America. Bottom left: Kids playing Chickapig at the Festy at Devil’s Backbone.. Photo by Joe Facciani. Bottom center: Daisy and Poop game cards add another challenge Dave Matthews teaching the game to campers at Camp Holiday Trails. Photo by Hannah Kirk Nass.

19

SOUTHERN COMFORTS

GIFT

GINGER LILLY SWEETS When we hear the word “cake,” we generally envision delicious laythem a great find for anyone looking for something out-of-the-ordinary ers of soft sponge covered in tasty frosting, but in the case of tea that truly bears the mark of a lost art. And while her “Southernizacakes, these sweet morsels are actually more of a cookie, offering a tion” of the recipe might make their flavor and texture somewhat texture perfect for dipping in tea—hence the name “tea unorthodox, she doesn’t sacrifice even a crumb of comcakes.” And while time and interpretation have created plexity in terms of technique. “Traditionally speaking, various iterations that are far from their original recipe tea cakes are typically dry, but mine are more soft,” and presentation, the desire to honor tradition is the inshe says. “From beginning to end, this type of dough spiration behind every beautiful confection created by requires several techniques and can be very finicky, Cheri Jones, the so-called “cookie lady” behind Ginger and larger bakeries that sell them usually make only Lily Sweets. vanilla or anise-flavored, with limited designs. I have To call them merely cookies, however, would be a travover 200 molds for mine—some are antiques, some esty, so elegant are they in their design. Created by are replicas of historical molds made by master carvers pressing the dough into molds, these tea cakes bear the in Northern Europe who make molds with traditional impression of intricate scenes, pictures, and patterns, designs. I’ve also made about 30 of my own molds.” and are so beautiful you’ll be tempted to put them on To say these confections are a handmade treasure is display instead of eating them. Naturally, however, the an understatement, and Jones has gained quite the desire to take a bite will eventually win out, and what following for her creations, making her regular rotation Cheri Jones you experience is a flavor to match the presentation. to sell as well as special orders for occasions such as And though tradition would dictate using either anise weddings, birthdays, and anniversaries. With flavors or vanilla as flavorings, Jones lets creativity guide her, baking up tea such as gingerbread, speculaas, red velvet, pecan praline, sweet pocakes that use locally sourced ingredients. “I’ve ‘Southernized’ my tato, peach cobbler, and even acai berry, she uses enjoys finding difrecipe, and part of that is using Southern ingredients or those specifferent ways to incorporate natural flavors and colors with organic teas, ically from Alabama whenever possible.” Jones, a former Real Estate freeze dried fruits, and herbs. For Jones, these tea cakes are more agent now spends her days baking these masterpieces in Hoover, than simple “cookies”—they’re edible works of art. And people love Alabama. “The molasses, the whiskey I use for glazes, and the beer I the fact that they can do more than just eat with their eyes. use in my honey cakes are all products made in Alabama.”

Tea cakes can be purchased through direct sales in Hoover, Alabama Both in taste and aesthetic, her creations are truly unique, making or online at etsy.com/shop/GingerLilySweets Written by L.Schmidt

20 okramagazine.com

ISSUE NO. 10