Eating for the Season

Autumn

Eating With the Season

by Robin Goldstein, chef and author of A Taste of Ojai cookbooks, shares inspiration for the fall

It’s the time of year when everything seems to ripen at once! We have ripe figs, apples, and pears, and sometimes it’s a challenge to harvest and keep these fruits while they last! Look for fall fruits and vegetables in your area for the best flavor in the season. Specific crops and harvest of fall produce will vary depending on your region’s climate. Fall season reminds me of a dish that I often eat as a breakfast treat — dried fruit compote served over yogurt. I use dried fruits simmered with spices, lemon, apples, pears, and a few shots of brandy to create a rich syrupy compote. e compote is so good it can actually be enjoyed by itself; served over this creamy panna cotta making it an extra-special decadent dessert. is recipe is from my Simply Delicious Wine Country Recipes published in 2017.

AUTUMN FRUIT COMPOTE

Serves 8

2 cups water

1 cup red wine

¼ cup packed dark brown sugar

Zest of 1 lemon and 1 orange

2 cinnamon sticks

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 star anise pods Pinch of sea salt

1 firm medium pear,

cubed 1 medium apple,

cubed ½ cup each of dried apricots and dried figs

½ cup grapes or ¼ cup raisins

2 tablespoons brandy

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

In a large heavy saucepan combine the water, wine, sugar, lemon and orange zest, spices, and salt. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat, add all the fruits and simmer for about 10-15 minutes, until the pears and apples are tender but still hold their shape and the dried fruits are plump. With a slotted spoon transfer the poached fruits into a bowl and set aside. Reduce the poaching liquid over high heat until syrupy and reduced by half, about 10 minutes or so; make sure the star anise and cinnamon sticks are left behind. Take o the heat, stir in the brandy and lemon juice, then strain right into the bowl with the poached fruits. Cool until barely warm before spooning over the panna cotta, or cover and refrigerate to store until ready to serve.

LEMON PANNA COTTA

2 tablespoons brandy

4 tablespoons water

3 teaspoons unflavored gelatin

3 cups heavy cream

1 cup sugar

⅛ teaspoon sea salt

1 cup plain yogurt, nonfat

1 tablespoon lemon zest, chopped Dash of ground cinnamon

Pour brandy and water into a small bowl; sprinkle gelatin over and let stand for about 5 minutes to soften the gelatin.

Meanwhile, place cream, sugar, and salt into a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is hot. Add the softened gelatin and whisk to dissolve. Whisk in yogurt, lemon zest, and cinnamon until well blended.

Divide into 8 custard cups or ramekins set on a tray. Chill the panna cotta cups for 4 hours or up to overnight; loosely cover with a towel or plastic wrap.

To unmold, cut around the edges of each panna cotta. Set each cup in a shallow bowl of hot (not boiling) water for 10 seconds to loosen it and immediately invert onto a plate. Spoon warm compote over or around each panna cotta and serve. If you wish, you can skip the unmolding process, and serve the panna cotta right from the ramekins, topping it with the warm fruit compote.

Robin Goldstein, chef and author of A Taste of Ojai cookbooks, shares inspiration for the fall