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FOOD FOR THOUGHT Serve braised beef short ribs over mashed potatoes
By Deborah Lee Walker Contributing Writer (Nov. 5, 2021) Does an expensive cut of meat automatically mean it has more flavor? Do high prices ensure tender bites? And should “prime” be your only consideration?
I think most of us would agree that there is nothing more pleasurable than biting into a thick, succulent juicy piece of meat that is cooked to perfection. But no matter how you cut it, one will pay dearly for the bite of deliciousness.
However, if one understands the process of braising, you can achieve a luscious, mouthwatering dish at an affordable price.
Usually, braising recipes begin by browning the meat in olive oil. Contrary to popular belief, browning or searing the surface does not seal in the meat’s juices. It does, on the other hand, produce new and complex flavor compounds as the sugars and proteins in the meat react under high temperatures and the surface color deepens.
Liquid, such as wine, beer, stock, or broth, is also essential for braising because the less tender meats have greater amounts of collagen than tender ones.
Collagen, a connective tissue, helps hold the muscle fibers together. When cooked at low temperatures with moisture, collagen dissolves into gelatin, which allows the meat fibers to separate more easily. The end result is unbelievable tenderness.
Braised beef short ribs in a decadent wine sauce over mashed potatoes are a fabulous dish for the fall. Following is a step-by-step guide for further comprehension.
One might be thinking if the meat is going to be cooked for a long time, why bother searing it? As stated above, the natural caramelization creates a ton of flavor. The little browned bits of goodness are considered the caviar of taste.
After searing, the meat is removed and set aside. Garlic, onions, celery, carrots and sun-dried tomatoes are sauteed until softened. You want to get a jump on extracting as much flavor as possible.
Many chefs choose red wine as the foundation for this dish. Red wine adds depth of flavor but it also has a very pronounced essence to it. Adding equals amounts of dry white wine will soften the tannins in the red wine and yields a better tasting sauce.
Beef bouillon or beef stock is a classic ingredient for braised beef short ribs. But the addition of chicken stock yields a richness that one cannot get with just beef broth.
In addition, a couple of tablespoons of concentrated veal demi-glace takes this dish to another level. Veal demi-glace is pricy and this step is optional. If one wants to purchase it, Williams Sonoma carries an excellent veal demi-glace.
Dried herbs are highly suggested. Fresh herbs are added at the end of the cooking period for a “pop” of flavor. But for longer cooking times, you want to use dried herbs. Rosemary, thyme and bay leaves are the preferred herbs.
When one is using bay leaves, always count how many you are using. You will want to remove them before serving the dish; this way you know exactly how many to remove. There is nothing worse than biting down on a dried bay leaf.
Place all of the ingredients into a Dutch oven and cook at 350 degrees for three hours. When the meat is falling off the bones, literally, remove the pot from the oven.
Most recipes call for one to remove the cooked veggies. I take a different approach. I remove the meat and any bones that have fallen off during the cooking phase, and using a hand-held immersion blender, puree the vegetables into the broth.
This acts as a natural thickener and it See NEW Page 29
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New, complex flavor compounds from braising
Continued from Page 28 gives the sauce a boost of flavor. A slurry of the pureed sauce and cornstarch is the final thickening agent. Make sure all lumps are dissolved.
Braised beef short ribs and a luscious wine sauce served over mashed potatoes are absolutely delicious. Menus should be updated during the change of seasons and braised beef short ribs are a must. Enjoy!
Braised Beef Short Ribs
Ingredients 6 pounds beef short ribs 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive 8 large cloves garlic, minced 2 yellow onions, chopped 3 carrots, ends removed, peeled, and chopped 2 celery stalks, including leaves, chopped 4 tablespoons sun-dried tomatoes, chopped 2 cups dry red wine 2 cups dry white wine 6 cups beef bouillon 4 cups chicken bouillon 4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons concentrated veal demiglace (optional) 2 teaspoons dried crushed rosemary 2 teaspoons dried thyme 3 bay leaves kosher salt and black pepper to taste 3 teaspoons cornstarch favorite mashed potatoes 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Season ribs with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over high heat. Brown the ribs until a good sear is achieved. Overcrowding will hinder the searing stage. Remove the ribs and set aside. 3. Add the garlic, onions, carrots, celery and sun-dried tomatoes to the pot and sauté until vegetables are soft. Scrape the bottom to release any browned bits. 4. Return the short ribs to the pot. Pour the wines, bouillons and Worcestershire sauce into the pot. Add the demiglace, dried herbs, salt and pepper and stir well. Bring to a boil, cover and transfer pot to the oven. 5. Cook until the ribs are very tender, about 3 hours. Remove the meat and cover with tin foil. Skim any fat from the surface of the broth. 6. Using a hand-held immersion blender, puree the cooked vegetables with the broth. 7. Make a slurry using the cornstarch and the broth, 3 teaspoons corn starch and 3 teaspoons broth. Turn heat to medium-high on the stovetop. Place the Dutch oven on the stovetop and gradually add the slurry, stirring constantly. 8. Place mashed potatoes on the plate. Add braised beef ribs and spoon thickened sauce over ribs and mashed potatoes.
Secret Ingredient -Experiment. “The true method of knowledge is experiment.”
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Dining Guide
■ PRICE RANGE: $, $$, $$$ ■ RESERVATIONS: Reservations accepted —————————————
DOWNTOWN
South end to 28th Street
■ CAPTAIN’S TABLE 15th Street and Baltimore Avenue, inside The Courtyard by Marriott, Ocean City 410289-7192, www. captainstableoc.com $$ | Kids’ menu | Full bar Featuring seafood, steaks and poultry. Daily chef specials. Breakfast and lunch Wednesday through Friday, 8-11 a.m. and Saturday and Sunday, 8 p.m. to noon. Dinner and Lite fare Wednesday through Sunday, 5-9 p.m. Dine in or carry out available. ■ COASTAL SALT 16th Street and the Boardwalk, Ocean City 410-973-7258, www.coastalsaltoc.com $$-$$$ | Kids’ menu | Full bar Enjoy and dine with the beautiful view of the ocean with Reel Eats & High Spirits. Now open Thursday through Sunday. Breakfast begins at 8 a.m., lunch at noon and dinner at 4 p.m. Happy Hour, 2-5 p.m. Wonderful starters, soups, salads, lite fare, and entrees. Famous bone-in ribeye, burgers, crab cakes, tacos, thyme roasted chicken and so much more. Dine in or carry out. ■ COINS PUB & RESTAURANT 28th Street Plaza and Coastal Highway, Ocean City 410-289-3100, www.coinspuboc.com $$ | Kids’ menu | Full bar Casual dining atmosphere for families. Soups, salads, crab cakes, hand cut steaks, fresh seafood, scallops, fresh soft crabs, and specialty dishes. Happy hour daily, 3-6 p.m. with food and drink specials. Early bird daily, 4-6 p.m. with special dinner menu. Open Monday through Thursday, Friday and Saturday at noon; Sunday at 9:30 a.m. Dine in or carry out. ■ CORAL REEF RESTAURANT & BAR Oceanfront and 17th St. in Holiday Inn & Suites, Ocean City 410-289-2612, www.coralreefrestaurant.com $$ | Kids’ menu | Full bar Enjoy our hearty homestyle breakfasts starting at 6:30 a.m. daily. Lunch and dinner offering light fare of soups and salads along with our house specialty Scallops St. Croix, along with ribs, Cuban pork and steak selections. ■ THE DOUGH ROLLER S. Division Street and Boardwalk 410-289- 3501; 3rd Street and Boardwalk 410-289- 2599, www.TheDoughRoller.com $$ | Kids’ menu | Full bar An Ocean City family tradition since 1980. Offering breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Buttermilk pancakes, fresh handmade dough pizza and Italian dinners. We have something for everyone! ■ THE VICTORIA ROOM Located in the Dunes Manor Hotel, 2800 Baltimore Avenue, Ocean City 410-289-1100 $$ | Kids’ menu | Full bar Oceanfront dining with coastal inspired dishes along with regional favorites, craft cocktails, small-plates and a relaxed ambiance. Serving breakfast and dinner with spectacular ocean views. The house specialty – Maryland Crab Cakes are some of the best in Ocean City. Open 7 days a week. Dine in, take out, no deliveries. ■ THE VIEW RESTAURANT AND BAR AT CAMBRIA, OC Located in the Cambria Hotel, 13 St. Louis Avenue, Ocean City 410-280-1645 or 410520-4541 Open to the public with a new full menu, breakfast, lunch and dinner. Happy Hour each day from 3-9 p.m. Open 7 a.m. daily until midnight Fridays and Saturdays and until 10 p.m. all other days. Enjoy overlooking the bay with fresh baked pastries on premise. Wounder appetizers, salads, sandwiches, entrees and flatbreads.
MIDTOWN
29th to 90th streets
■ 32 PALM Located in The Hilton,32nd Street, Ocean City 410-289-2525, www.32palm.com $$ | Kids’ menu | Full bar Open daily, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Bar and lounge. Western Caribbean cuisine with a mix of traditional Eastern Shore favorites. ■ THE DOUGH ROLLER 41st Street and Coastal Highway 410-5249254; 70th Street and Coastal Highway 410524-7981, www.TheDoughRoller.com $$ | Kids’ menu | Online ordering See downtown locations for description. ■ JOHNNY’S PIZZA PUB 56th Street, Ocean City 410-723-5600, www.johnnyspizzapub.com $ | Kids’ menu | Full bar Featuring homemade pizzas, 18 gourmet pizzas, a variety of calzones, subs, burgers, sandwiches and jumbo wings with 20 different sauces. Open everyday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Dine in, pickup, carryout and delivery. ■ LONGBOARD CAFÉ 6701 Coastal Hwy., Ocean City 443-6645639, www.longboardcafe.net $$-$$$ | Kids’ menu | Full bar Classic and creative American dishes and cocktails are showcased in a festive, surfthemed setting with weekly specials. Featuring burgers, tacos, prime rib, seafood and more. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays. Dine-in and curbside pick-up. ■ MARLIN MOON Located in the Double Tree Hotel, 3301 Atlantic Ave., Ocean City 410-289-1201, www.marlinmoonocmd.com $$ Open Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.to 10 p.m. Restaurant and bar with fresh seafood, small plates, desserts and cocktails. ■ RESIDENCE INN BY MARRIOTT 61st Street Bayside/2nd Floor @ Bayview Bar & Grill, Ocean City 443- 664-7043 $$ | Kids’ menu | Full bar Bayfront dining with a casual atmosphere. Specializing in burgers, flat breads, crab cakes, shrimp burgers and full dinner specials. Happy Hour daily, 4-7 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 4-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 4-11 p.m. (kitchen until 10 p.m.) and NFL specials all day Sunday. ■ SEACRETS 49th Street, Ocean City 410-524-4900, www.seacrets.com $$ | Kids’ menu | Full bar Open Thursday and Friday, 4 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. with Island atmosphere. Jamaican jerk chicken, appetizers, sandwiches, paninis, pizza and fresh seafood.
UPTOWN
91st to 146th streets
■ HORIZONS OCEANFRONT RESTAURANT, BREAKERS PUB & LENNY’S BEACH BAR & GRILL Inside the Clarion, 101st Street, Ocean City 410-524-3535, www.clarionoc.com $-$$ | Kids’ menu | Full bar Serving beach-inspired dishes in our oceanfront restaurants, Horizons and Breakers Pub. All-day menu, available 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner including light fare and steamer specials. ■ THE CURRENT RESTAURANT Located on the sun terrace at the Princess Royale Oceanfront Resort, 9100 Coastal Highway, Ocean City, 21842 443-856-2367, www.princessroyale.com $-$$ | Dine in | Full bar Open to the public, open-ocean air dining, providing an experience unique to any other in Ocean City. Commanding view of the Atlantic Ocean and East Lawn. Enjoy a range of coastal cuisine, signature cocktails, local craft beers and live entertainment. Locals receive 25 percent off food and drink. Must show valid ID. Closing for the winter this Sunday. ■ OCHO RIOS JERK & TINGS 11805 Coastal Highway, Unit N, Ocean City 443-664-7275, www.ochoricosjerkandtings.com $$ | Full bar Serving you authentic Jamaican food, appetizers, lunch specials, stew, salads, burger, jerk shrimp or chicken, and entrees. Steak, oxtail, seafood, and chicken with many special sauces. Signature jerk excoveitched or BBQ. Side dishes with rice and peas, fried sweet plantains, fried cornmeal dough and mac & cheese. Desserts, Jamaican rum cake, NY cheesecake and red velvet cake. Closed Monday thru Wednesday. Thursday and Sunday, noon to 8 p.m. and Friday and Saturday, noon to 10 p.m. ■ THAI O-CHA 13727 Coastal Highway, Ocean City 410250-9918, www.thaiochamd.com $$ | Serving authentic Thai food, full vegan menu and vegetarian options including curry, rice and noodle dishes. Homemade appetizers, soups, and sauces. Seafood, meat, chicken, stir fries, vegetable, tofu, and desserts. Dine in or takeout. Early Bird Special Sunday, Monday and Thursday, 4-6 p.m. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. Open noon to 8 p.m.
WEST OCEAN CITY
■ OC CHOPSTICKS Asian Bistro 12741 Ocean Gateway, Suite 890, West Ocean City (Outlets Ocean City) 410-8011111, www.occhopsticks.com $$ | Beer | Premium Sake Offering a wide array of authentic Chinese, Japanese and Thai food. Dine-in and carryout. Lunch specials. Dinner and lite fare. Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. and Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
OCEAN PINES
■ CLUBHOUSE BAR AND GRILLE 100 Clubhouse Drive, Ocean Pines 410-6417222, oceanpinesgolf.org/dining $$ | Full bar With sweeping views of the 18th hole, the new Clubhouse Bar and Grille serves freshly prepared breakfast and lunch items. Full bar. Open daily, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., weather permitting. ■ OCEAN PINES YACHT CLUB 1 Mumford Landing Road, Ocean Pines 410641-7222, www.OPyachtclub.com $$-$$$ | Full bar The Ocean Pines Yacht Club offers casual coastal cuisine for lunch and dinner in a beautiful bayfront setting. Fresh seafood, signature drinks, live music and more. Open Thursday through Sunday, 11 a.m.