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3
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Staff Writers Dee Kwong
Devon Lee
Cassidy Crockett
Graphic Designers Catherine Zhu
Saanvi Jain
Luke McKane
Photographers Shirley Zhang
Hailey Kim
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Zine Director Franklin Dong
Productions Manager Soham Bhonagiri
Special Thanks to The Executive Board
of The NYU Stern
Luxury and Retail Association and
General Members
of the Club
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FW 2
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Contents by Cassidy Crockett, Franklin Dong, Devon Lee, and Deborah Kwong
Days of Being Wild
page 9
by Franklin Dong and Devon Lee
The Extra Mile
page 17
Garde Robe
by Cassidy Crockett
Assessing Art As a Business
by Deborah Kwong
page 19
page 21
Childhood Closet
by Devon Lee
What Is A Brand?
by Bianca Taller
page 23
page 26
by Franklin Dong & LARA E-Board
Meeting The E-Board
page 27
7
How
far
is
a
8
lightyear?
DAYS OF BEING WILD Model
Kevin chen
A Reflection by
Franklin Dong, Cassidy Crockett,
Devon Lee,
and Dee Kwong
by franklin dong
It takes a long time to get young. It takes the most amount of energy to recognize and understand what being young is all about. You have to travel, to observe, to commit to a pilgrimage. You have to know who you are, to learn how to listen before you speak. You have to stand under the sun for hours holding the world in a warm embrace.
Being young is a state of mind; it has nothing to do with age. It involves a proactive attitude of approaching life and all its facets with an open heart. You have to undergo a rigorous process of eliminating all barriers between you and the world. Strip away sheltered modes of thinking, as only after doing so can you approach the world with a naked intellectual consciousness that allows you to think freely and critically.
The first issue of HELIOS is an attempt to capture youth before it slips away from us. 11
by franklin dong
But doing so is an endeavor that is far from easy for it requires much honesty and evaluation of the self. How do our experiences shape our perception of beauty? And perhaps more importantly, why does it matter? What role does beauty play in our lives and the world we live in, and what role should it play?
Happiness cannot find a conceptual foundation if there is an absence of pain. Our minds seem to be programmed to hold onto negativity with a firmer grip than its positive counterpart, and many of us understand happiness as a state of existence without suffering: it is a concept based on emptiness, a lack of.
And while many associate beauty with happiness, those two concepts are in fact, radically different. Beauty has no prerequisites; it has no requirements of one’s state of existence. You can be happy and find beauty in your life, just as you can easily do so when you are down. All you have to do is take a look around. There is beauty in a scarlet sunset; there is beauty in a Pollock painting that on the surface, resembles nothing but chaos and disorder.
The emphasis here is not the mere versatility of beauty, that it can be used to judge any work of art, but it is rather the pervasiveness, the deep-rooted foundations of it, that need to be stressed. In other words, it is not that everything is beautiful, it is that beauty is everything. It is a language, not a phenomenon.
Fashion exists in the intersection of beauty and expression. It deals with not just our self-awareness and self-interpretation of what looks beautiful to us, but also with the idea of performance. The notion behind theories like gender performativity and others state that our identity is not assigned to us through biology, but it is rather through our own actions that we perform our identities. Fashion becomes very relevant in this discussion for it gives us access to costumes and outfits to define and express ourselves.
Perhaps this is what being young means; and this is what feels like.
Finding beauty, making meaning of our own identities, and creating avenues of expression. 12
by cassidy crockett
We are born “flawless.” Skin soft and untouched. Swaddled in uniform baby blankets. From that day on, our knees are scraped, skin becomes freckled, scars are formed, sunburns peel and hair thickens and thins. We experience our own worlds, each day and each minute completely different from the last, and from anyone else's. We are young. We are in the process of growth. Your childhood memories are of your favorite toys and movies, running around the yard with friends. You aren’t consumed by the bareness of your face or the small rip in your pants. You are experiencing youth. Changing with wear and experience, each imperfection holding its own story.
“Young is the general word for that which is undeveloped, immature, and in process of growth. Youthful has connotations suggesting the favorable characteristics of youth, such as vigor, enthusiasm, and hopefulness: youthful sports, energy, outlook”
Somewhere along the line, we become conscious of our youth. The changing and undeveloped “imperfection" that we live in. We do everything we can to fit what the media has forced upon us. Freckles and scars get covered up and pants get tossed. Brands market to the perfect, youthful idea that we must all be “young”, even when we still are. Yet, we are already imperfect and changing. Young as a noun is physically impossible for anyone to get back to. We cannot reverse time. But young as an adjective, is something more complex.
These imperfections prove that our youth is still within us. They show that we have lived and changed. Being young is also a mindset. It is appreciating what is in the present and who you are now, not looking at the past, trying to cover it up and perfect it.
113
by cassidy crockett
This concept of youth is driving a shift in the beauty and fashion world today. Fashion has always been a source for experimentation, self expression through what you wear, a desire to be seen. But recently, as fast fashion becomes more problematic and seeks new ways of resourcing clothing, our perceptions of what young v.s. old in aesthetics is shifting. The wear on your jacket or rips in your denim, once negatively, connotated a view of age and imperfection, is now understood as a story. The year of the well made jacket, its age, is something we crave to know. The older the better. Imperfected quality craftsmanship over cheap instant perfection.
If we look towards beauty too, we see the no-makeup, makeup look on the rise, as makeup is now catering to enhancing, rather than covering up, the self, it is embracing the imperfections. Freckles now show through skin “tints” and natural eyebrows are not plucked but enhanced with clear gel. Beauty is imperfection. It is the story of our youth.
Young is an adjective for who we are now, not simply a noun.
14
by devon lee
Fashion is as much a part of our identity as the language we speak. It is a form of self-expression that evolves with us as we navigate the uphill path of growing up. The story begins with an oblivious toddler dressed entirely in a blush jumpsuit adorned with delicate rose motifs. The ensemble is complemented by lace pink gloves, floral sunglasses, and a bedazzled bag. Our first expression of fashion is in fact their mother’s, and the external force of dictation continues but through other powers.
As adolescence dawns, the relationship with fashion becomes more complex. The high school corridors turn into runways and each student is a model that is meant to showcase their evolving identity. Trends are mandated and are eagerly embraced. We hope to fill another piece of ourselves in the latest fad, a desperate attempt into completing who we are even though there is still so much still left to explore. From Adidas superstars to neon Asics, our closets reflect the ever changing waves of youth culture.
Bergdorf Goodman becomes a pilgrimage site, and Vogue becomes the bible. We scrutinize each page, and recite the gospel in the form of a new blouse. We chase the illusion of perfection, and pray that low-rise jeans become our ticket to the heaven that is social acceptance. In these moments, fashion is not just a way to express ourselves; it is a shield against the insecurities that haunt our young years. But as we ascend to adulthood, the relationship with fashion undergoes a change. No longer a slave to trends, our wardrobe reflects the individual we grow to be. Each piece has an intention. It becomes a conscious choice that echoes our values and goals. Vintage pieces accessorized with modern staples becomes an expression of embracing the new while appreciating the old.
Fashion is a form of self-discovery, a journey that comes along with one’s discovery of identity. No longer is it about fitting in, but standing out. It is about celebrating individuality in a world that often demands conformity. The runways of our youth transform into runways of self acceptance, where confidence and authenticity are the trendiest accessories. Fashion is not just a choice of attire. It is an anthem that echoes the exuberance trapped within the soul.
As time passes, we stand at a crossroad between our youth and our adulthood. Here, fashion becomes a time capsule that preserves the chapters of our past. It is not just about the clothes we wear but also the clothes we keep. Clothes we store in the back of the closet that remind us of our journey. The floral jumpsuit your mom would dress you in as a toddler, the sneakers you wore on your first day of preschool, the shorts you wore at homecoming, and the robe you wore at graduation. Our old wardrobe becomes a diary stitched in fabric, a memoir that unfolds with each sartorial choice. A reminder of who we were and who we are today.
15
by dee kwong
Youth is a time of complicated yeses and nos: stupid decisions and missed opportunities. Time passes, and forcibly, we grow older, pulling us from dreams we built from crumbling sand. The waves of reality hit us, and an inkling passes through me. I wonder what would happen if things were different. Here’s the funny thing about regrets. It haunts the young and trails us until our last breath. We’re running against the race of time, hoping to rid ourselves of telling us who we could’ve been.
I imagine her in my head. She cuts through the large city crowd in stiletto heels, unbothered by its squeezing leather straps. She is dressed in a form-fitting attire with deconstructed cuts and sleek lapels, holding an iced coffee in one hand. The other hand brings out her phone ringing; she has meetings to attend. The gray skirt, probably made by Kawakubo, does little to protect her from the wind. Her hair, washed routinely in rosemary water, is haphazardly pinned by pearly pins. Though this version of her—this idealized me—we’re the same, yet so far apart.
I question whether the chase is worth it, wanting to be someone seemingly within reach yet difficult to grasp. I dress, hoping to make little me proud. It's a gradual journey, an incremental approach to mold myself into the embodiment of the person I've pictured in my head. The lines between fantasy and reality blur, and for a moment, I find myself walking in the steps of patent leather-heeled me once confined to a child’s dream.
Fashion goes beyond self-expression; it manifests your idealized self through fabrics that hug your form in varying ways. As I refine my taste, gnashing and sharpening against what I know, my wardrobe grows steeper and steeper: Galliano’s silken crepe dress, Issey Miyake’s colored pleats, and the jeans I stole from my mother. To the ones with hidden regrets waiting to rewrite their youth, fashion propels us forward and helps us reclaim
the version of ourselves that slipped away in time.
16
by
devon
lee
and
franklin
dong
The Extra Mile Hafiz Mangalji, Director of Robert Burke Associates, talks about the tense relationship between fashion and corporate funding, shedding light on his personal career trajectory and offering tips to aspiring workers in fashion.
The
expansiveness
of the luxury world is
I also found out that publishing was a
major players in the luxury industry,
shown through the working experience
sinking ship and even during that time,
making it a difficult battle for smaller
of experts within the industry. The
things had already begun to shift
brands to flourish, pointing out the
nature of conversation, moreover, can
direction to multimedia and online
corporate conglomerates that have
help demystify issues of interest that
presence instead of traditional print.
become borderline monopolies,
originally seem far away from the
But keep in mind that this was during
“Luxury is dominated by 3 or 4 groups,
observer. This is precisely why actively
the Anna Wintour years, are you guys
so it is difficult for smaller luxury
participating in discourse with
familiar with what that means?” He
brands to flourish. It is nearly
industry professionals is particularly
smiled to a room full of nodding faces.
impossible for small brands to go
rewarding for those at LAR A that aim
“It means that the genre of the fashion
overseas without corporate investing
to learn more about their career field
magazine was at the peak of its powers
and help which is why emerging
of passion.
during that time. Making it onto Vogue
brands are pressured to take a Venture
or GQ was equivalent to going viral on
Capital or Private Equity approach.”
On Thursday, November 2nd, LAR A
social media today. But as we can see,
invited Hafiz Mangalji from Robert
they have since lost their appeal.”
Burke Associates to have an in-depth
Fashion has become increasingly industrial which is why new brands
discussion about his experiences
How does one navigate through
often feel pressure to raise venture
breaking into the industry and his
disillusionment in their career? How
capital for financing. However, the
career trajectory that led him to where
can they deal with the constant
traditional route of seeking venture
he is today, a Director at one of the
shifting nature of an oversaturated and
capital for immediate financial support
most successful boutique luxury
extremely competitive industry? The
may not be the most suitable choice
consulting firms in New York.
answer for Hafiz was to reorient his
for these aspiring fashion labels.
focus. He realized that for many up and
Venture capital, renowned for its high-
“My biggest dream growing up was…
coming designers and brands that
risk, high-return nature, primarily
To work at GQ Magazine.” Hafiz said
were quickly becoming popular, cost of
focuses on tech companies due to their
with a slight smile when asked about
operations was a constant obstacle for
distinct economic dynamics. The
his past experiences and initial
expansion. “How many of you here
creative realm of fashion, inherently
positions in the industry. “My parents
have heard of Chrome Hearts?” He
dependent on subjective consumer
were immigrants, and the immigrant
asked, and we all smiled and raised our
preferences and trends, finds itself at
community often has their own
hands. “Good. Chrome Hearts is a
odds with the rapid scaling
perception of luxury. Their attitude
popular brand, but their team is
expectations of venture capital
towards it is different. We work really
incredibly small and can’t afford to go
investors. As Hafiz puts it, “You have to
hard, and we are not looking to buy
overseas. And so what do they do?
value the pieces you are trying to sell”
expensive things because we want to
They work with partners.” After
and this is nearly impossible for small
show off that we can, but we do it
realizing that his once-dream-position
brands to expect from a corporate
rather to reward ourselves and our
was in fact not suitable for him,
conglomerate like LVMH who cannot
hard work. This is partly what inspired
Hafiz shifted his attention to see what
provide the patience for a long return.
me to work in the industry that I am in
was in heavy demand in the industry
now, and what drove me to work at my
and worked hard to provide it.
first position at GQ.”
And so instead of a VC approach Hafiz suggests that emerging fashion brands
The path to success for small and
should seek out established angel
“But when I finally made it there and
emerging luxury brands can be a
investors or funding from family offices
started working, I realized that it really
complex and challenging journey. Hafiz
because of their genuine desire
wasn’t what I wanted.
highlighted the dominance of a few
to foster emerging talent.
17
by
devon
lee
and
franklin
dong
These funding sources are often open
“My biggest advice and the most
to creative and unconventional ideas,
important thing I look for in a potential
which can be beneficial for fashion
employee is always hard work. I’ve
brands looking to innovate and
been able to obtain better positions
differentiate themselves in the market.
simply because I was able to do tasks
They are also more intimately engaged
more efficiently and I was willing to
and involved with the companies they
learn. Fashion also needs to grow:
invest in, fostering deeper and long-
companies are not just looking for
term connections. This option offers a
students that have studied fashion
nurturing environment that applauds
before or went to school for it, but are
creativity and allows brands to develop
more interested in what skills and
without overwhelming external
attitude you bring to the table. I also
pressures. However, the funds are
believe in the golden rule: you treat
unfortunately far less than what a VC
others the way you want to be treated.”
company would provide, and Hafiz
He nodded and paused before adding
emphasizes that for a brand to go
with a soft smile, “work experience at a
global, corporate private equity fund-
company’ competitor is sometimes the
ing is unavoidable. In the pursuit of
most attractive thing on a resume.
financial support, these alternative
Companies are competitive, and they
approaches highlight the importance
love to hire those that have worked for
of aligning investment strategies with
their competitors just to gain that
the specific requirements and values of
edge.”
the fashion industry, something a corporate company cannot provide.
Hafiz also took some time to elaborate on the contents of his consulting work. “A lot of my work with consulting is actually legal work. Writing and reading over contracts for companies. Although they know how to design products, they might not have the legal foundations down.” Hafiz continued.
“You have to value the pieces you
“But moreover, we help them with the issue of perception. How to
are trying to
differentiate their diffusion lines, better identify their customer base, or
sell.”
how to communicate more effectively with the people that are buying their
“I also
products. Tommy Hilfiger is a good example. Their brand perception is
believe in
very different here in the States than in Europe. Why is that? We helped them
the golden
better understand that issue.”
rule: you
Of course, beside the knowledge that he gained from his own personal
treat others
experiences in the industry, Hafiz was also keen on sharing with those at the
the way you
event a few key traits that he looks
for when hiring someone. “You guys
want to be
are here at LAR A, and I think that usually means that you’re already
treated.”
interested in working in fashion and luxury.” He nodded.
18
by cassidy crockett
Garde Robe A new way to shop.
O n a b u s t l i n g t h u r s d a y a f t e r n o o n ,
promised to divulge more details about
Drawing from extensive customer
the atmosphere at LARA was antici-
her silver earrings further into her
outreach, she revealed the discovery
patory as Sarah Findlay, the visionary
presentation.
that shaped her ideation: in reality,
founder and CEO of Garde-Robe,
stepped into the classroom.
people turn to their friends, not In the ever-expanding landscape of
influencers, for genuine style
social media and influencer culture,
inspiration. This understanding fueled
Findlay, with her effortlessly chic
discerning between sponsored content
the creation of Garde-Robe, a hub that
blonde hair tucked behind her ears,
and authentic recommendations
is a safe haven from sponsored
exuded a classic sense of style in an
has become nearly impossible.
distractions, and dedicated to fostering
elegant knit sweater, complemented by
Recognizing this challenge, Garde-
a community of reliable fashion
silver, modular, statement earrings
Robe was born to be a place protected
advisors among friends.
that, the class would soon learn, could
from influencers’ sway and paid
be found on Findlay’s own Garde-Robe
promotions.
Garde-Robe, more than just a shopping
profile – a nod to the seamless
companion, is a comprehensive
integration of fashion and technology
Instead, it creates a community-
solution that declutters your browser
that is the hallmark of her platform.
centric approach, where one seeks
and closet simultaneously. The
style advice from trusted friends,
platform’s Chrome extension
Garde-Robe, a “friend-to-friend social
leaving behind the mess of screenshots
empowers users to seamlessly add
commerce website,” emerged as a
and message threads.
items directly to their profiles.
solution for the cluttered realm of
Moreover, by uploading their closets,
online shopping. The platform invites
During her engaging fifteen-minute
users gain a visual inventory that not
users to curate their digital, as well as,
panel discussion, Findlay unveiled the
only simplifies borrowing decisions but
physical closets, consolidating
creation of Garde-Robe.
also leaves room for strategic
shopping tabs into a singular, easy
wardrobe planning. In essence, Garde-
experience. Findlay, with her
Robe transforms the nature of fashion
welcoming smile,
into a sustainable and collaborative experience.
19
by cassidy crockett
As the panel concluded, Findlay circulated a paper among the students,
inviting them to become potential ambassadors. Eager to use this power of community, she sought feedback and support to drive Garde-Robe into the spotlight with her infectious enthusiasm.
After the panel, I personally asked Sarah Findlay a question that I like to ask all founders. What is the best advice that you got from another fellow founder that you would pass on
to students interested in doing a startup as well?
“To just go for it and never take no for
an answer! People glamorize entrepreneurship, but it’s a long path full of ups and downs and so if you normalize the downs and just keep going that’s the most important!”
Sarah Findlay’s creation is not just an app; it’s a trailblazer of fashion, technology, and the beauty of friendship.
20
by cassidy crockett
Assessing Art
As A Business A visit from Morgan Stanley, offering their insight on wealth management in art.
S t a r t i n g t h e p a n e l by quizzing their
The practices of Morgan Stanley and
“If I don’t hit that, you know, my client
audience members, the speakers,
other investment banking firms have a
is going to fire me.”
Austin Chen and Jenny Yu, immediately
relatively short history compared to
set the tone for the Luxury and Retail
art’s entire existence. It was the 20th
It is a well-known fact that all
Association’s final panel of the fall
century when Andre Level and eleven
investments carry some degree of risk.
semester. The room, surprisingly full—I
of his friends pooled their money to
So when Steve Jobs wanted to raise
only say this because finals week was
buy several artworks dating back to the
money for his Apple computer and
approaching—looked at the pile of
Impressionist period. It only took the
asked IBM, everybody was laughing at
large canvas tote bags and boxed
investors ten years to quadruple their
him. It was an ‘easy’ rejection for the
candles labeled, ‘Morgan Stanley.’
profit after selling the paintings at an
technological investment company. As
auction. Art evolves into an asset—an
IBM assessed the entrepreneur and
Representing Morgan Stanley, Vice
idea reflected as Chen and Yu shed
capital for risk, “there’s no difference”
President Austin Chen advises and
light on their day-to-day client
for Chen. “Assessing the artwork as a
manages the portfolios of the wealthy.
interactions.
business is what we do,” Chen said.
despite only standing in the front.
Generally, a portfolio spans financial
The significance of art on a balance
Meanwhile, Jenny Yu, Morgan Stanley’s
assets, including stocks, bonds and real
sheet is slowly increasing. Larry Fink,
financial advisor and planning
estate. However, some collectors may
the chairman and CEO of BlackRock,
specialist, takes a seat, wearing a
distinguish art as a personal interest
also recognized the potential for
matching baby blue two-piece
rather than an asset, compared to how
growth in the art market back in 2015.
reminiscent of 90s Karl Lagerfeld.
Morgan Stanley may view it. After all,
“The two greatest stores of wealth
the “holy grail of finance,” as Chen
internationally today include
“What is the tax rate on the capital for
labels it, is to have maximum return
contemporary art,” Fink said in a
a U.S. person?” Chen asked. “The first
while minimizing volatility. Art became
Bloomberg article. “I don’t mean that as
person to shout it out gets a prize.” The
a way to diversify the portfolio.
a joke, I mean that as a serious asset
Chen fills the room with his presence
room giggled at the unexpected game we were about to play.
class, and the other store of wealth “My hurdle rates are 10%, right?” Chen
today is apartments in Manhattan,
said.
Vancouver and London.”
21
by cassidy crockett
The art market in 2022 is worth around “60-70 billion,” Yu said. “According to a Citibank report, the market will raise around 15% every year.”
However, a small percentage of buyers still treat art as a personal interest. According to Chen, some individuals express sentiments like, ‘I’ve got so much money.’ “Their strike in art is not based on the hurdle rates. It’s what they have passion for,” Chen said.
Psychologically, for the lucky few, art acts as a path to the final stage of Maslow’s hierarchy of needs—selfactualization.
Buyers in the art market are situated along a spectrum, from those passionate about art to those approaching art as an asset. As Austin Chen and Jenny Yu balance different clientele, their wealth management strategies depend on these factors and are explored once they sit down with them.
22
By Devon lee
Childhood Closet A trip down memory lane.
Art by Catherine Zhu
23
By Devon lee
T h e U p p e r E a s t S i d e is a childhood
The bell rings and the marble stairs
closet, where she only learns how to
nearly collapse under the feet of
use the Q train and walk to 5th
frantic girls.
Ave.
Parents and nannies wait outside for School is the centuries old mansion
pickup,
next to Central Park.
But older girls walk in pairs, home to Breakfast is eaten at Eli’s, and the
Park Ave.
flakes of a $5 croissant is littered on top of light blue skirts and black tights.
Dinner is eaten at home. Mom cooks after her pilates class still wearing the
Coffee becomes the signature stain on
pink Lululemon jacket that is often
mandatory white Polo shirts.
taken from her by a greedy daughter.
Conformity is mandated but not
Dad is abroad and calls to say
followed.
goodnight.
Skirts are pulled up and loafers are
Weekends are cello lessons at the New
ditched for tennis shoes that are
School.
golden.
Winter has an impartial humor and Mass ends at 12 and lunch is eaten at
dirty snow pulls at feet warmed by
Yura.
UGGs and Prada snow boots alike, laughing at the falls.
Cashmere is quickly slipped off,
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner are eaten Sweaters must abide by school colors:
at 12, and purchased at Union
cardinal, navy, or emerald, but fashion
Christmas market.
is the culmination of rebellious young girls who hate listening to rules
Cream pasta spills onto black dress-
instituted by nuns;
pants and fallen marshmallows are crushed under red bottom flats.
Monogrammed cardigans are replaced by thick, gray sweatshirts bought
Orchestra rehearsal starts at three and
during vacations at South Hampton.
the cellos never get to play because the focus is always on the clumsy
Classes consist of theology before
violists who mistakenly wore white
biochem in a room that overlooks
with black again instead of black with
Cooper Hewitt.
black.
The large windows never close, and
Music cases are accessories, decorated
the Central Park breeze rushes inside
with stickers from Brandy, and beige
to routinely kiss every piece of old
check-patterned bear keychains gifted
wood that hasn’t been touched by
from a man your grandma claims to be
nature since 1881.
named Burberry.
24
By Devon lee
Breaks consist of sneaking into the
Supposed Virgins walk down the aisle,
Parsons design room to smoke by the
counting their steps as they go, and
window then getting caught, returning
place themselves below the wooden
to the theater hall with ruler marks on
Christ that hasn’t been seen since their
your legs, not hands because hands are
middle school communion.
commodities already abused by peeling calluses and dried scabs.
The priest whispers for the last time,
Practice is claimed to be hated but
...with the Father, Son and Holy Spirit...
deep down it is loved and cherished at every second till the clock concludes
Cheers erupt and the girls take turns
at seven, and the concert begins.
grabbing diplomas and shaking hands with teachers that helped raise them, a
The week comes again but this time,
bittersweet goodbye.
it’s spring and it’s one of the last.
Hands full of bouquets begin to Feather stuffed jackets and mink coats
tremble from the weight, and tears
are replaced by liberated arms
flood the water that holds the yacht
adorned in so much gold that it jingles.
where reception is held.
Graduation is used as an excuse to buy
When the sun sets, the white dresses
a wedding dress early.
come off and it is realized that the wardrobe of eighteen years no longer
Mom and daughter invade Madison
fits.
Avenue, stopping at Ralph’s for coffee before going to the tailor.
White polos are donated, and light blue skirts are signed as if they were
The dress is bought in pearl and the
yearbooks, then stored alongside black
heels are handed down from Mom,
concert attire in the depths of a box labeled
No jewelry she says, the dress speaks for itself.
Memories.
Senior pictures are taken in the ballroom, and the ceremony is held at St. Ignatius.
Parents, grandparents, aunts, uncles, godparents, family-friends, and boyfriends stand in the red cushioned aisles, dressed in their Sunday best which include Chanel tweed and
Armani suits.
25
By Bianca taller
What Is A Brand? Bianca writes about the definition and powers of a brand.
a b r a n d i s essentially a collection of values, which are
To unlock brand equity in today's technologically saturated
thoughts and ideas designed to influence others. These
environment, a departure from conventional thinking is
values form the core of a brand, helping companies fulfill
imperative. The surge in access to numerous channels,
consumers’ wants and needs. Through brand ideation,
advertisements, and companies necessitates a unique
creation, and development, companies strive to go beyond
approach. To stand out as the black sheep in this competitive
mere commodities and lessen the importance of price in
landscape, brands must actively seek ways to differentiate
consumer decision-making. A strong brand not only
themselves. A notable example of this departure is evident in
increases a company's market valuation but also contributes
Dove's Real Beauty campaign, showcasing how brands can
to its intrinsic value.
build cultural impact. Their successful ad campaigns transcended mere attempts to sell products, instead,
The power of a brand is often reflected in the disparity
initiating the conversation of representing real beauty
between its perceived value and its actual value. Take Rolex,
standards in the industry. As digital interactivity expands
for instance, a luxury watch brand that stands as a pioneer in
and diversifies the contexts in which people engage with
the industry, while Patek Philippe arguably owns the top tier
brands, it becomes less and less productive to view
of horology. Nevertheless, Rolex manages to create an allure
individuals solely as consumers. Brands leverage design and
that surpasses even Patek. At first sight, Rolex established its
technology to craft compelling experiences and foster a
brand image by offering a timeless watch worn by prominent
sense of belonging.
figures such as actors like Daniel Craig and even presidents like JFK. However, Rolex's success extends beyond these
Other interesting trends in marketing and brand building
associations. Through partnerships with ambassadors such
include embracing inconsistency, deviating from the
as sports leader Roger Federer and film director Franco
ordinary, and challenging traditional conventions. The era of
Zeffirelli, Rolex strategically positioned its brand to embody
seriousness is waning, making way for inclusive
the allure of prestige and prosperity. In doing so, Rolex not
communication. Products are now considered a departure
only provides a timepiece but fulfills a deeper need for
point for telling holistic stories, creating immersive worlds,
recognition and visibility. Building a brand means creating
and generating emotional impact.
something that feels essential to a customer’s life, as Marty Neumeier highlights in The Brand GAP. The key to unlocking brand equity and its full potential lies in increasing the space between perceived and actual value.
26
MEETING THE E-BOARD From left to right:
Hannah Wang, Treasurer
Natalia Kakkou, Outreach
Brielee Lu, Co-President
Gage Sanchez, Marketing
Franklin Dong, Zine Director
Martin Li, Senior Advisor
Soham Bhonagiri, Showcase
Bianca Taller, Operations
Matt Li, Co-President
Avia Wang, Vice-President
Cathy Chen, Senior Advisor
Flor Yi, Outreach
Julia Choi, Marketing
Interviews Interviews With:
With:
Matt MattLi Li
Brielee BrieleeLu Lu
Bianca BiancaTaller
Taller
Hannah HannahWang
Wang
Gage GageSanchez
Sanchez
Julia JuliaChoi
Choi
Natalia NataliaKakkou
Kakkou
bybyFranklin Franklin Dong Dong
Meeting the e-board
Matt Li
Interview by Franklin Dong
June 2023
FD: Hi Matt!
ML: Hello!
FD: How are you, how’s life?
ML: I’m good!… Busy with work. Busy.
FD: What have you been up to?
ML: I’m doing a lot with Komune, and we’re making some progress. We’re going past the preliminary steps and moving into marketing now, but that also means I’m having some brand fatigue.
...
Co-President M a t t Matt is pictured here in the middle.
ML: I was speaking to a friend in Melbourne, and we had a nice conversation about our experience and attitude with music. I feel like becoming aware of and developing our music taste is a lot about letting go of pretense, and just enjoying things in general. Don’t try to be anything, just enjoy it all.
FD: How do you think trends have changed over the past few years, or do you think they have changed at all?
ML: Sure, they definitely have, but timelessness… I don’t like that word. As far as clothing goes, I think it’s more associated with typical wear. What we’re all looking for is authenticity-being real. Sometimes that means change.
...
ML: Music subcultures are really cool to me. The Manchester Alternative scene in the 90s’, the “club kid influence” which is just a revival of the NYC club scene in the 2000s… Yeah, the Electroclash / New Rave thing that was so popular in the NYC dance scene, you know? Old party stuff.
...
ML: These philosophical concepts really appeal to me too. The idea that we can’t separate worlds we’ve created. All these symbols and signs-these social constructs. We’ve replaced reality with thoughts and symbols.
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Meeting the e-board
Brielee Lu
Interview by Franklin Dong
June 2023
FD: Morning Brie! What’ve you been up to and how’s summer been?
BL: I don’t really think the trend cycle is changing. We had this quiet luxury phase where the most important thing for someone to do was to conceal the brand name on their clothes. There was a torrent of micro-trends that followed. But now there’s so much consumer fatigue: everyone just wants things to become slower and the products
they buy more subtle and durable.
BL: Hey! So I’ve been working two internships. One at a management consultant firm, and another in finance, where I’ve been helping the firm sign posthumous celebrities or artists to do deals.
FD: Oh that’s interesting, can you tell me about that?
BL: We’re trying to give artists who were maybe overlooked during their lifetimes a platform to present their works. For example, there was this artist who worked at a factory in Alabama and who took home scrap metal and made art out of it to protest, and I thought that was really cool. He never had the opportunity to learn how to read and write and a lot of his artwork went undiscovered when he was alive, and what we’re doing now is trying our best to give him and his family a voice.
FD: That’s amazing. Such an unique internship too.
BL: Yeah I think it was quite a jarring experience when I worked fashion internships, because those jobs made me realize that I really wanted a finance internship. I think I’ve also gained a lot of vocabulary for luxury after having this work experience. The other day I learned what the word ‘valorization’ meant. Like what kind of word is that, you know?
Co-President B r i e l e e
…
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Meeting the e-board
Bianca Taller
Interview by Franklin Dong
June 2023
FD: I’ve talked to a few other E-board members and they all are working within the luxury industry this summer, and I’ve been hearing some amazing stories. What have you been up to this summer?
BT: Wow that’s good to hear! I’m working as well. Currently in the third week of my internship at this jewelry company called World of Reza. We’re selling really cool pieces, some even from the 1850s’. The company was founded by Persian traders, I think, and we have access to these archived designs. The brand is quite wellreceived: even Princess Diana had a piece of our jewelry at one point, and I know Rihanna has a lot too.
Operations Bianca Bianca is pictured here on the left.
FD: That’s honestly incredible. What sets this brand apart from other jewelry companies?
BT: Well, we very much steer towards a luxury consumer base. It’s near royalty. We have a “digital flagship” store and we are exclusively online. It’s best for safety, and we’re finding new ways to differentiate ourselves. It’s definitely cool to be a part of something like this and be able to get behind the scenes.
It’s unique, and having products that are too streamlined takes away from that feeling.
FD: For sure. Everything becomes uniform.
BT: Exactly. We have a product called “The Stretch Ring”, and there are three different price points for it: one at $8k, one at $12k, and one at $20k.
FD: Any stories to share? Behind the scenes snapshots?
FD: [Gapes]
BT: For example, this month is ruby month, and so we’re doing a campaign on our ruby products. I’m getting to learn all about different kinds of rubies.
BT: Yeah. And they’re differentiated by the different kinds of diamonds on the ring. So why would someone with so much disposable income buy a ring like this? Because it actually means something to them, so much so that it is worth half a year’s college tuition.
FD: That’s such a wild statement.
BT: Isn’t it? It’s amazing. I love the artistic direction that is reflected in every piece: the time period, the artists, the technologies… It’s wonderful. The whole point of owning a piece of jewelry is to have something that is special to you and that belongs to you.
Of course, it’s quite a lot for us to wrap our heads around, but at that point it becomes more of a process of conceptual thinking than anything else.
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Meeting the e-board
Hannah Wang
Interview by Franklin Dong
June 2023
Treasurer Hannah Hannah is pictured here on the very left.
FD: Hannah! What’s been going on with you, how has summer been going?
HW: Hey! Nothing much, I’ve been back home and working at Longchamps, and it’s been great.
FD: That’s so cool! Tell me about it.
HW: Well, I know some other E-Board members are working at high-luxury houses and companies, and Longchamps is midluxury-it has a pretty large client base and the price tag isn’t that high. I’ve been working here for a little over a month, and my duties at the job are pretty basic, but it’s been really eye opening to see how things operate on the most basic level.
FD: How’s the customer service been like for you?
HW: For the most part, people are respectable. There was this one lady though, she wanted a full refund for one of the things she bought and we just couldn’t do it and she got upset… Oh well. The customer is always right.
…
HW: Fashion has always been interesting to me as a genre of expression because it can essentially become the way you present yourself to others. It also has such a rich history if you dive into it, and it’s something that is constantly evolving. Trend cycles are becoming these rapid circles that we spin around in.
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Meeting the e-board
Gage Sanchez
Interview by Franklin Dong
June 2023
Marketing gage Gage is pictured here digging into an avocado.
FD: Hey Gage! How’s the summer been, where are you, and what are you up to?
Since I’ve come here, I think I’ve gotten more analytical. I’m taking the time to slow down and look at things differently.
GS: Hello! I’m actually in New York right now, working for a software company on their social media campaign. It’s been really fun incorporating some type of fashion sense into business. I’ve also been painting a lot for the apartment, and it’s a nice way to unwind. It’s nice to be in the city during the summer just because it feels so refreshing to meet people that are not students, you know?
GS: It’s interesting to see what’s trending these days. Tweed is happening. Linen is on everything. People are all wearing the same, homogeneous silver glasses… Most of those aren’t even prescription. Fast fashion is built to model the second-hand industry, at first it might seem plastic-looking, but then it all seems to look very grunge.
FD: Yeah, I totally understand. That sounds so interesting! Do you think living and working on your own here in New York has changed you in any way?
FD: What do you think the next big thing is? What’s the next look?
GS: Mm… I think that people are taking really fantastic looks and adding a second-hand feel to them, and the looks end up being somewhat postapocalyptic. I think that’s pretty cool. Maybe it’ll happen soon. There’s also this complete gender flip that’s going on in the clothing industry, and I think eventually it’ll give everything a unisex feel.
GS: I think I’ve matured definitely. I feel like I’ve aged 35 years but still stuck in a young body. [Laughs] But seriously, going home to Texas feels strange now because I’m used to that place. I know the gist of people.
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Meeting the e-board
Julia Choi
Interview by Franklin Dong
June 2023
Marketing Julia Julia is pictured here on the left next to Soham.
FD: Hey Julia! Good to talk to you. How’s summer been?
JC: Summer’s been good! Nice to talk to you too.
JC: I think I’ve recently made it a point to build a more well-rounded wardrobe. I try to think of five or six different ways of wearing something before spending money on it, and that’s been really helpful so far. I think getting things that will stay classy for a long time is a much better thing to do than chasing a trendy wardrobe, because that’s always subject to change.
FD: Speaking of trends and being trendy, what do you think of the general mainstream and popular things that are out there right now?
JC: I think the idea of self-identity is very important when it comes to dressing yourself. There’s now this diversity of subcultures and that’s a good sight to see. But then there’s TikTok and it has such a complicated but undeniably huge impact on the fashion industry and people’s fashion sense. It shortens our attention spans, and people are critical on the app but also appreciative at times. It creates opportunities but also destroys them. It’s like this big paradox that we have to learn how to turn to our own advantage. But I think it benefits people of our age because it helps find self expression.
FD: Circling back to LARA and our Zine which is the reason that we’re doing this in the first place, why and how is LARA special to you?
JC: Joining LARA at first was incredibly eye opening: everyone is so well-versed and they know their stuff. I think I’ve learned a lot about fashion business since joining, and I really want to inspire more people to come to meetings in the future.
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Meeting the e-board
Natalia Kakkou
Interview by Franklin Dong
June 2023
. . . they were very excited and kind enough to exchange information with me and stayed in contact.
FD: What have you been up to? What’s been going on this summer for you?
FD: How do you think working in the industry has changed or added to your perspectives on creating your own brand?
NK: I’m back home in Greece, working as a salesperson at Hermes. Signing NDAs, going through a lot of training… It’s been challenging but really interesting at the same time. I’ve always had the idea of creating a brand and getting industry experience and working in a team has been nice.
NK: Working has been fun, and the management is great. I’ve also been involved with the behindthe-scenes work where I’m tracking inventory and whatnot, and it gives me a zoom-out moment where I’m thinking about potentially starting a brand myself, and it’s certainly a lot of work.
...
NK: I’ve just been really impressed with the attention to detail that big fashion houses like Hermes have. There are 12 different boxes for every product with slight variations in detail, and everything is designed to be customer oriented, you know? They teach you the proper etiquette to treat every customer the same way. I’m learning about the history behind the products that we have too, from the different designs behind the scarves to the variety of notes in every perfume… It’s been fascinating.
NK: There is this handbag brand that was created by a girl I used to go to school with. It’s called Marina Rafael. The luxury industry is definitely hard to break into for so many reasons, and people want a name brand at the end of the day. But 2 years in, celebrities were wearing her designs. I want to create something that can be executed effectively and ethically, and the fact that she could do it makes me a bit more confident that I can as well.
FD: Any memorable experience with customers that you’d like to share?
NK: [chuckles] There were these four customers that came in that wanted this particular shoe that was really popular, and we didn’t have them. They got pretty upset, and I tried to explain that we simply do not have the products you want in store, and maybe it was possible for them to look at other things, but they refused and were still mad about it.
FD: What can you do?
NK: I know… But there have also been good exchanges too. There was a couple from NYC that came in. They were both Columbia graduates and when they learned that I’m a NYU student . . .
Outreach Natalia Natalia is pictured here on the right.
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Stay Tuned
for
our next issue
Sincerest of Thanks
From LARA & The Helios Zine Team