October 2026 • Vol. 32 • Issue 8
Beyond the Stratum Corneum: Rethinking the Skin Barrier as a Living Interface
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… Roger L. McMullen
or much of modern skin science, the skin barrier has been viewed primarily through the stratum corneum. The familiar “bricks and mortar” model—in which corneocytes are embedded within a highly organized lipid matrix—has provided an invaluable framework for understanding how the skin limits water loss and protects against penetration from the external environment. That model remains fundamental, but our understanding of the barrier has expanded considerably. The skin is now recognized as a dynamic biological interface involving not only the stratum corneum, but also the viable epidermis, microorganisms, immune signaling, appendages, surface chemistry, and adaptive responses to environmental stressors.1-4 These stressors include ultraviolet radiation, air pollution, fluctuations in temperature and humidity, and chemical and mechanical exposures, all of which can influence barrier integrity, oxidative balance, inflammatory signaling, and the composition of the skin’s surface environment. The stratum corneum remains the structural foundation of this system. Its extracellular lipid matrix, composed primarily of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, forms highly organized lamellar structures that are essential to permeability barrier function. Natural moisturizing factor (NMF), generated largely through filaggrin degradation, helps maintain hydration and the mechanical properties of corneocytes. Barrier performance therefore depends not only on which components are present, but also on their relative proportions, molecular organization, and interactions.3,4
Beyond the Physical Barrier
A useful contemporary framework describes the skin barrier as having interconnected physical, chemical, microbiological, and immunological components.² The physical barrier includes the stratum corneum and other structural elements that regulate permeability. Beneath the stratum corneum, tight junctions within the stratum granulosum, formed by transmembrane proteins including claudins and occludin, provide an additional barrier to paracellular transport.¹ The chemical barrier includes skin-surface pH, NMF, epidermal and sebaceous lipids, and antimicrobial molecules. The microbial barrier comprises resident microorganisms, while the immunological barrier includes keratinocytes, immune cells, cytokines, and antimicrobial peptides. These systems do not function independently; changes in one can directly influence the others. Skin-surface pH provides a good example. The mildly acidic “acid mantle” influences enzymes involved in lipid processing and desquamation, contributes to stratum corneum integrity, and helps determine which microorganisms can thrive on the skin.5 Changes in pH can therefore affect both barrier structure and microbial ecology. One of the most significant shifts in our understanding of skin barrier function in recent years has been the recognition of the skin microbiome as an active component of the barrier. Resident microorganisms are no longer considered simply passive occupants of the skin surface. Commensal organisms can compete with pathogens, produce antimicrobial substances, modify skin lipids, and communicate with keratinocytes and immune cells. Microbial products may influence epidermal differentiation, immune responses, and tissue repair.6,7 The relationship is reciprocal: the skin environment shapes the microbiome, while the microbiome can influence barrier homeostasis. (continued on Page 4)
S Y M P O S I U M : T H E S K I N B A R R I E R A S A L I V I N G I N T E R FA C E • O C T O B E R 8 t h ...see pages 6-22 for more information.
2026 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Anushka Nadkarni chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect Afam Okoro chair-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Anne Young secretary@nyscc.org Treasurer Diane Dabkowski treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Brian Ecclefield treasurer-elect@nyscc.org Advisor John Carola advisor@nyscc.org Program and Special Events Alexis Piterski program@nyscc.org At Home Live Series Susanna Fernandes Susanna.Fernandes@tri-k.com Scientific Committee Chair Michael Anthonavage manthonavage@vitaquest.com
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Letter from the Chair
…Anushka Nadkarni
all is here, bringing fresh energy to a season of science, education, and connection. As the leaves turn, our calendar is filling up with opportunities to learn, collaborate, and celebrate the incredible community that makes the NYSCC so special. September certainly set the tone. The “Next-Generation Sunscreens” program brought experts together to examine evolving SPF testing methods, UV filter technology, formulation advances, and broader approaches to photoprotection. We also traded the lab for the kitchen at our sold-out annual Culinary Event. Through food, hands-on activities, and conversation, we celebrated the diversity of our community and made new connections. Thank you to everyone who joined us for these two memorable events. Our October calendar keeps the science going. On October 8th, “The Skin Barrier as a Living Interface: Biology, Disruption, and Repair” will bring together speakers from around the world to explore how advances in skin biology are shaping the next generation of skin care technologies. On October 14th, Area I SCC will host “What Touches Your Skin: The Role of Laundry and Personal Care Products,” in Stamford, Connecticut. Speakers include experts from Estée Lauder and Henkel, among others. I am especially looking forward to moderating the Q&A with keynote speaker Ellen Shepard, Senior Director, R&D Personal Care North America, Unilever. The NYSCC is making connections on the road, too. We were pleased to participate in the CEW Beauty Expo and SWSCC Suppliers’ Day, and we look forward to the IFSCC Congress and Naturally Kiawah Conference. Each gathering is a chance to exchange ideas with the wider beauty and personal care community and share the work of the NYSCC and Suppliers’ Day. Our podcast, The Science Shaping Beauty, continues to grow. Seven episodes are now available on YouTube, Spotify, and Apple Podcasts, featuring conversations with voices from across our industry. If you have not tuned in yet, I hope you will give it a listen. Looking ahead, Education Night in November will recognize scholarship winners and celebrate the people advancing cosmetic science. We received a strong response to this year’s applications, and I look forward to honoring the recipients. We will also announce a special guest speaker from the beauty space soon. I hope to see you at an upcoming program or on the road as we continue Breaking Beauty Boundaries with Science.
2026 NYSCC Events Calendar
• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org
Social Media Dejour Waite, Revathi Nair, and Gabriella Yankovich socialmedia@nyscc.org House Chair Arielle Nausieda house@nyscc.org Cosmetiscope Editor Roger McMullen roger.mcmullen@gmail.com Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com
October 8
The Skin Barrier as a Living Interface: Biology, Disruption, and Repair – The Legacy Castle, Pompton Plains, NJ
October 14
Area I Educational Seminar: What Touches Your Skin: The Role of Laundry and Personal Care Products – Serafresca, Stamford, CT
November 2
Inside Beauty’s Next Breakthroughs: Meet the 2026 NYSCC Suppliers’ Award Finalists – Virtual Event Hosted by CEW
November 12
The Bellwether: A Journey Through Beauty Innovation – Bell Works, Holmdel, NJ
November 19
NYSCC Education Night – Capitale, New York City, NY
Nov. 30 – Dec. 2
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SCC Scientific Meeting & Showcase – JW Marriott LA Live, Los Angeles, CA
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Save the Date...
The Bellwether: A Journey Through Beauty Innovation November 12th October 2026
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Beyond the Stratum Corneum
(continued from Page 1)
Keratinocytes also play a far more active role than previously appreciated. In addition to producing the cells and lipids required to form the stratum corneum, living keratinocytes sense environmental and biological signals and communicate with immune cells, neurons, fibroblasts, and microorganisms. They produce cytokines, chemokines, and antimicrobial peptides that help coordinate responses to injury, irritation, infection, and environmental stress.8 This ability to sense, respond, and repair is central to the concept of the barrier as a living interface. The pilosebaceous unit adds another dimension. Hair follicles have traditionally been viewed as interruptions in the epidermal barrier and potential routes for topical penetration. However, follicles also create specialized biological and microbial environments. The sebaceous gland contributes sebum, which influences surface chemistry, lubrication, microbial ecology, and innate immune defense. Sebum-derived lipids help maintain the lipid-rich environment of the skin surface, while the hydrolysis of sebaceous triglycerides generates free fatty acids that can influence surface pH, microbial growth, and antimicrobial defense. Sebocytes themselves are metabolically and immunologically active.9 Rather than representing merely a weak point in the barrier, the pilosebaceous unit can be viewed as an integrated appendageal component of barrier function.
When Barrier Homeostasis Is Disrupted
This broader framework also changes how we think about barrier disruption. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) remains an important and useful measurement, but barrier dysfunction may also involve changes in lipid organization, hydration, pH, microbial ecology, inflammatory signaling, or sensory responses.4 Sensitive skin illustrates this complexity particularly well. Burning, stinging, itching, and discomfort do not always correlate neatly with conventional measurements of TEWL or hydration, suggesting that neural and immunological mechanisms may also contribute.10
From Barrier Repair to Barrier Homeostasis
For cosmetic scientists, the implications are significant. Classical approaches based on humectants, emollients, and occlusives remain essential, but modern barrier-support strategies increasingly seek to restore homeostasis more broadly. These approaches may include replenishment of physiologically relevant lipids, support of NMF, maintenance of an appropriate acidic environment, modulation of inflammation, and consideration of the microbiome. Even ceramide-containing formulations illustrate this complexity: performance depends not simply on the presence of ceramides, but on their type, concentration, physical state, and organization within the formulation.11 The skin barrier also presents an interesting paradox. In many cosmetic applications, the objective is to strengthen and protect it. At the same time, the effectiveness of the stratum corneum creates a major challenge for topical delivery. Emerging approaches such as dissolving microneedles illustrate efforts to deliver ingredients more precisely while minimizing unnecessary disruption of surrounding tissue.12 Ultimately, the most important change in our understanding of the skin barrier is therefore conceptual. The stratum corneum remains central, but the barrier is not simply a passive wall. It is a coordinated, adaptive system that is physical, chemical, microbial, immunological, and metabolic. The future of skin care may increasingly depend not simply on improving “barrier function,” but on supporting barrier homeostasis—the ability of this complex interface to maintain equilibrium, respond to environmental and physiological challenges, and recover following disruption.
n References
1. Lefèvre-Utile A, Braun C, Haftek M, Aubin F. Five functional aspects of the epidermal barrier. Int J Mol Sci. 2021;22(21):11676. doi: 10.3390/ijms222111676. 4
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2. Rajkumar J, Chandan N, Lio P, Shi V. The skin barrier and moisturization: Function, disruption, and mechanisms of repair. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2023;36:174–185. doi: 10.1159/000534136. 3. Berdyshev E. Skin lipid barrier: Structure, function and metabolism. Allergy Asthma Immunol Res. 2024;16:445–461. doi: 10.4168/aair.2024.16.5.445. 4. Fluhr JW, Moore DJ, Lane ME, Lachmann N, Rawlings AV. Epidermal barrier function in dry, flaky and sensitive skin: A narrative review. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2024;38:812–820. doi: 10.1111/jdv.19745. 5. Brooks SG, Mahmoud RH, Lin RR, Fluhr JW, Yosipovitch G. The skin acid mantle: An update on skin pH. J Invest Dermatol. 2025;145:509–521. doi: 10.1016/j.jid.2024.07.009. 6. Harris-Tryon TA, Grice EA. Microbiota and maintenance of skin barrier function. Science. 2022;376:940–945. doi: 10.1126/science.abo0693. 7. Kengmo Tchoupa A, Kretschmer D, Schittek B, Peschel A. The epidermal lipid barrier in microbiome-skin interaction. Trends Microbiol. 2023;31(7):723–734. doi: 10.1016/j.tim.2023.01.009. 8. Simmons J, Gallo RL. The central roles of keratinocytes in coordinating skin immunity. J Invest Dermatol. 2024;144:2377–2398. doi: 10.1016/j.jid.2024.06.1280. 9. Mosca S, Ottaviani M, Briganti S, Di Nardo A, Flori E. The sebaceous gland: A key player in the balance between homeostasis and inflammatory skin diseases. Cells. 2025;14:747. doi: 10.3390/cells14100747. 10. Alexis AF, Woolery-Lloyd H, Williams K, Andriessen A, Desai S, Han G, Perez M, Roberts W, Taylor S. Racial/Ethnic variations in skin barrier: Implications for skin care recommendations in skin of color. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021;20(9):932-938. doi: 10.36849/jdd.6312. 11. Schild J, Kalvodová A, Zbytovská J, Farwick M, Pyko C. The role of ceramides in skin barrier function and the importance of their correct formulation for skin care applications. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2024;46:526–543. doi: 10.1111/ics.12972. 12. Moawad F, Pouliot R, Brambilla D. Dissolving microneedles in transdermal drug delivery: A critical analysis of limitations and translation challenges. J Control Release. 2025;383:113794. doi: 10.1016/j.jconrel.2025.113794.
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In Memoriam Steven B. Neidenberg December 25, 1949 – June 9, 2026
teven B. Neidenberg passed away on June 9, 2026. Steve was born in the Bronx, New York City, where he spent his childhood before attending college in Texas. Steve enjoyed a career in the cosmetics industry spanning more than thirty years. He began his career with companies including Revlon, Cover Girl Cosmetics, and Estée Lauder. While working at Cover Girl in Maryland, Steve met his wife, Michele DeGraw, with whom he shared 42 years of marriage. He later founded his own recruiting company specializing in the cosmetics industry, which he successfully operated for many years. Steve was a longtime and dedicated member of the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. He served as Chapter Chair on two occasions, in 1999 and again in 2014, and contributed many years of service to the Suppliers’ Day Committee. His willingness to return to the role of Chair after so many years reflected his enduring commitment to the Chapter and to the cosmetic science community. Those who had the opportunity to work closely with Steve will also remember the person behind these accomplishments. He was kind, approachable, and generous with his time, and he cared deeply about the Society and the people who made it a community. Steve brought warmth and collegiality to his service and formed friendships that extended well beyond committee meetings and Society events. Steve’s many years of involvement with the NYSCC left a lasting mark on the Chapter. He will be remembered not only for the positions he held and the time he gave to the Society, but also as a colleague, friend, and genuinely good person. He will be greatly missed.
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The Skin Barrier as a Living Interface: Biology, Disruption, and Repair October 8, 2026 9:00 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. The Legacy Castle Pompton Plains, NJ
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Symposium Chair:
Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.
Assistant Chair:
Raymond (Bret) Clark, M.S. he Skin Barrier as a Living Interface: Biology, Disruption, and Repair will bring together leading experts from academia and industry to explore the evolving science of the skin barrier and its importance to skin health and cosmetic innovation. Moving beyond the traditional view of the stratum corneum as a passive physical barrier, the symposium will examine the skin as a dynamic, biologically active interface shaped by lipid organization, the microbiome, the pilosebaceous unit, inflammation, nutrition, environmental stressors, and individual differences. Presentations will connect these fundamental insights with emerging approaches to barrier strengthening and repair, sensitive skin, advanced topical delivery, dermal bioavailability, and molecular photoprotection—providing attendees with a comprehensive perspective on how advances in skin biology are informing the next generation of skin care technologies. To register for this event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (nyscc.org).
Sponsored By:
Event Agenda
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9:00 – 9:30 a.m.
Registration and Welcome Coffee
9:30 – 9:40 a.m.
Opening Remarks – Anushka Nadkarni, M.S. (NYSCC Chair) and Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. (Symposium Chair)
9:40 – 10:05 a.m.
Dissolving Microneedles: A Next-Generation Platform for Enhanced Skin Delivery – Sesha Rajeswari Talluri, M.S. (Rutgers University)
10:05 – 10:30 a.m.
Evaluation of Natural Moisturizing Factors in Patients with Atopic Dermatitis from Diverse Racial/Ethnic Populations Following a Prebiotic Skin Care Regimen – Hawasatu Dumbuya, Ph.D. (L’Oréal USA)
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10:30 – 10:55 a.m.
Stratum Corneum Organization and Barrier Function in Healthy and Compromised Skin – David J. Moore, Ph.D. (University of Edinburgh)
10:55 – 11:10 a.m.
Morning Coffee Break
11:10 – 11:35 a.m.
The Skin Microbiome and Its Role in Barrier Maintenance and Repair – Elizabeth Grice, Ph.D. (Perelman School of Medicine, University of Pennsylvania)
11:35 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.
The Role of the Pilosebaceous Unit in Skin Barrier Function – Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. (Ashland, Inc.)
12:00 p.m. – 1:00 p.m.
Lunch and Networking
1:00 – 1:25 p.m.
Modern Strategies for Skin Barrier Strengthening, Repair, and Protection – Stephen Lynch, Ph.D. (L’Oréal USA)
1:25 – 1:50 p.m.
Is There a Correlation Between Self-Perceived Sensitive Skin and Skin Barrier Strength? – Nava Dayan, PharmD, Ph.D. (Dr. Nava Dayan, Ltd.)
1:50 – 2:05 p.m.
Afternoon Coffee Break
2:05 – 2:30 p.m.
Nutritional Modulation of Epidermal Function: Implications for Barrier Integrity and Skin Aging – Michael Anthonavage, M.S. (Vitaquest International)
2:30 – 2:55 p.m.
Understanding the Skin Barrier as a Living Interface: Predictive Surrogate Approaches to Dermal Bioavailability and Bioequivalence – Seepra Rath, Ph.D. (Rutgers University)
2:55 – 3:20 p.m.
Advanced Molecular Photoprotection Platform – Steven Rosenfeld (The F.C. Sturtevant Company)
3:20 – 3:30 p.m.
Closing Remarks
3:30 – 4:30 p.m.
Cocktail Reception
Event Chairs and Moderators
n Symposium Chair – Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.
Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D., has more than 25 years of experience in the personal care industry, with specialties in optics, imaging, and spectroscopy of hair and skin. He is a Principal Scientist at Ashland, Inc., where he leads the Materials Science team. Roger has authored more than 40 publications in peer-reviewed journals and textbooks and is the author of Antioxidants and the Skin, 2nd edition. He is the 2023 recipient of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ prestigious Maison G. de Navarre Award. Roger holds a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and a Ph.D. in Biophysical Chemistry from Seton Hall University. He taught Biochemistry for almost 20 years at Fairleigh Dickinson University to students pursuing M.S. degrees in Cosmetic Science and Pharmaceutical Chemistry. He is currently on the faculty of the University of Cincinnati, where he mentors students in the Cosmetic Science program pursuing M.S. and Ph.D. degrees. Prior to his career in science, Roger served for four years in the U.S. Navy aboard the USS Yorktown (CG-48). He is fluent in Spanish and Catalan and is also an avid wildlife photographer. (continued on Page 8)
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n Assistant Chair – Raymond (Bret) Clark, M.S.
(continued from Page 7)
Raymond “Bret” Clark is a Technical Leader on the Spectroscopy team at Ashland Specialty Ingredients, specializing in nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and infrared (IR) spectroscopy. He is an active member of both the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) and the New York/New Jersey Section of the American Chemical Society (ACS) Spectroscopy group. Bret earned his B.S. in Chemistry from Rutgers University and M.S. in Analytical and Organic Chemistry from Seton Hall University.
n Moderator – Joseph Albanese, M.S.
During his career in the personal care industry, Joseph Albanese worked for Avon, Shulton, and Colgate-Palmolive in both process and product development groups. Joe’s employment on the supply side of the industry included more than 12 years at GAF/ISP, where he progressed from formulation chemist to manager of the Hair Care Applications/Technical Service Laboratory. After many years in R&D, Joe transitioned into technical sales. He was also a member of the first graduating class of Fairleigh Dickinson University’s Master’s degree program in cosmetic science. Following his retirement from full-time employment, Joe remained active in the industry, working for three years as a consultant with Covestro, where he continued to apply his extensive technical and industry experience. Joe has been a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists since 1984. Over the years, he has served the Society in numerous capacities, including Acting Secretary and Chair of the New York Chapter. He was also an Assistant Editor of the chapter’s monthly newsletter, Cosmetiscope, for many years and authored technical articles for the publication, including “Desperately Seeking Synergy,” which received the Best Paper Award. Joe chaired multiple educational seminars for the NYSCC and presented technical talks to the New York Chapter and other regional chapters across the country on topics including cGMPs, rheology modifiers, sunscreens, and cold-process emulsions. At the national level, he served a term as Area I Director. In recognition of his technical accomplishments and many contributions to the Society, Joe was among the first recipients of the SCC’s “Marketing Fellow of the Society” award after being nominated by the Board of Directors. His longstanding service to the Society was further recognized with his designation as an Emeritus Member of the SCC. Since retirement, Joe has devoted considerable time to conservation and the outdoors. He is currently President of the Hudson River Fishermen’s Association, a 501(c)(3) conservation organization with a long history of advocating for the cleanup and protection of the Hudson River. The organization was part of the grassroots environmental movement that helped give rise to the Riverkeeper movement and, ultimately, the broader Waterkeeper Alliance. And, after a long career in cosmetic science and decades of service to the SCC, Joe now has a little more time for another lifelong interest—fishing.
n Moderator – Chandra Adeola Ade-Browne, Ph.D.
Dr. Chandra Ade-Browne, M.S., Ph.D., is a business leader with a background in scientific research and advanced training in Pharmaceutical Sciences and Biomembrane Sciences. She earned her Ph.D. and M.S. in Pharmaceutical Sciences from the University of Cincinnati, with a focus on Biomembrane Sciences, and holds a B.A. in Chemistry from the University of Rochester. She began her career on the finished-goods side of the industry, with experience at organizations including P&G, L’Oréal, and Unilever, before transitioning to the supplier side in a technical sales role. She currently serves as a Technical Account Manager at Gattefossé, where she combines her scientific background with business acumen to address formulation challenges and translate scientific concepts into practical solutions. As a speaker and a moderator, Dr. Ade-Browne brings a researcher’s curiosity and a business leader’s perspective to technical discussions. She is passionate about asking thoughtful questions, creating meaningful dialogue, and making connections.
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Speaker Abstracts and Biographies
Dissolving Microneedles: A Next-Generation Platform for Enhanced Skin Delivery
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Sesha Rajeswari Talluri, M.S. (Rutgers University)
vercoming the skin barrier remains a key limitation in achieving optimal performance of cosmetic actives using conventional topical formulations. Dissolving microneedles (DMNs) have emerged as an innovative, minimally invasive technology capable of enhancing ingredient delivery while maintaining a positive consumer experience. This presentation will discuss the development of biodegradable dissolving microneedle systems designed to improve targeted skin delivery and efficacy of cosmetic actives. The microneedles were engineered using biocompatible polymers to provide sufficient mechanical strength for reliable skin insertion, followed by rapid dissolution to enable controlled release within viable skin layers. Structural and functional characterization confirmed uniform morphology, insertion efficiency, and predictable dissolution behavior. In vitro permeation studies demonstrated significantly enhanced active delivery compared with traditional topical applications. By combining enhanced delivery with sustainability and user-friendly application, dissolving microneedles offer a versatile platform for nextgeneration skin care formulations, supporting precision delivery, improved performance, and innovative product development opportunities within the cosmetic industry.
n Sesha “Raje” Rajeswari Talluri, M.S. (Ph.D. Candidate)
Sesha “Raje” Rajeswari Talluri is a Ph.D. student in Dr. Michniak’s Drug Delivery Laboratory at Rutgers University. She earned her Bachelor’s degree in Pharmacy from the University of Delhi and her Master’s degree from Osmania University, India. During her Ph.D. studies, she has worked on various cosmetic science projects, including investigations of skin permeation of active ingredients using Franz diffusion cells and in vitro permeation testing. Her work has also encompassed cosmetic formulations such as lipsticks, creams, and gels. She has experience in the design, development, and characterization of semisolid dosage forms and novel drug delivery systems. Prior to joining the laboratory, she served as an Assistant Professor of Pharmaceutics in India. _____________________________________
Evaluation of Natural Moisturizing Factors in Patients with Atopic Dermatitis from Diverse Racial/Ethnic Populations Following a Prebiotic Skin Care Regimen
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Hawasatu Dumbuya, Ph.D. (L’Oréal USA)
opulations with skin of color (SOC) remain underrepresented in atopic dermatitis (AD; eczema) clinical trials despite disparities in disease incidence and persistence. This lack of inclusive recruitment and retention has contributed to AD being understudied in diverse racial and ethnic populations and potentially misdiagnosed or underrecognized because of differences in clinical presentation compared with white populations. To address this gap, we established an inclusive clinical research program to evaluate the benefits of a prebiotic skin care regimen in managing AD and xerosis (severe dry skin) and to identify potential differences in skin barrier properties across diverse populations.
n Hawasatu Dumbuya, Ph.D.
Dr. Dumbuya is a research scientist trained in cell biology and physiology who specializes in clinical research for skin care product evaluation. She earned her B.S. from MCPHS University in 2013 and her Ph.D. from Brown University in 2017, where she studied ultraviolet light-induced melanin synthesis. After completing her doctorate, Dr. Dumbuya joined L’Oréal USA Research & Innovation, leading efforts to develop novel concepts and protocols for clinical evaluations of new skin care ingredients. Currently leading Clinical Research & (continued on Page 10)
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Medical Affairs for La Roche-Posay U.S. at L’Oréal, her work focuses on driving inclusive and comprehensive clinical evaluations and advancing scientific education across diverse audiences. Her research on photoprotection and atopic dermatitis has broadened dermatological insights across ethnically diverse populations and has been published and presented in leading dermatology forums. Beyond research, Dr. Dumbuya is dedicated to community outreach and promoting STEM education among underrepresented students, efforts for which she has received prestigious awards. _____________________________________
Stratum Corneum Organization and Barrier Function in Healthy and Compromised Skin
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David J. Moore, Ph.D. (University of Edinburgh)
he outer layer of the human epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), provides a robust and effective permeability barrier that makes human terrestrial life possible. Recent studies have identified more than 1,200 ceramide species in human SC, which, in combination with saturated free fatty acids and cholesterol derivatives, constitute the SC lipid matrix. The permeability barrier function of skin ultimately derives from the intermolecular and intramolecular organization of SC lipids and their interactions with the terminally differentiated cells of the SC. Recent analytical studies have reported significant changes in SC lipid composition associated with skin diseases, environmental stresses, lifestyle, and life stage. Less studied, however, are the associated changes in molecular organization and their impact on barrier function, regulation of protein activity, and maintenance of other physical and chemical gradients necessary for healthy skin. This presentation will describe results from biophysical studies illustrating the importance of SC lipid organization to healthy skin and the impact of external physical and chemical stresses on the skin barrier.
n David J. Moore, Ph.D.
In 2024, David was appointed Chair in Formulation Science in the School of Physics and Astronomy at the University of Edinburgh, where he works closely with the Edinburgh Complex Fluids Partnership and its industrial partners and collaborators. He also co-supervises several Ph.D. students working on topical formulations and skin barrier science in collaboration with colleagues in physics, engineering, and dermatology, as well as industrial sponsors. David has been involved in biophysical studies of skin, membranes, hair, and mineralized tissue, as well as cosmetic and pharmaceutical topical formulation development, for 25 years. He has worked in the U.S. and UK for GSK, Unilever, International Specialty Products (now Ashland), TRI Princeton, and Tioga Research. In addition to his industrial roles, David has held visiting academic positions at Rutgers University, Princeton University, and University College London. He is currently an adjunct professor at the University of Cincinnati and an adjunct fellow of TRI Princeton. David has served as an industrial advisor and sponsor to doctoral students at Stanford, Princeton, Vanderbilt, and Rutgers in the U.S., and UCL, Imperial College, and the universities of Newcastle, Durham, Leeds, and Edinburgh in the UK. An inventor on several patents and co-author of more than 100 peerreviewed papers, review articles, and book chapters, David is an elected Fellow of the Royal Society of Chemistry and was co-chair of the 2019 Gordon Research Conference on The Barrier Function of Mammalian Skin. _____________________________________
The Skin Microbiome and Its Role in Barrier Maintenance and Repair
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Elizabeth Grice, Ph.D. (Perelman School of Medicine, University of Pennsylvania)
he skin microbiota contributes directly and indirectly to the skin’s primary function as a barrier to the external environment. Breach of the skin barrier and subsequent tissue repair also occur in the context of resident polymicrobial communities. Our laboratory investigates these microbially mediated functions in skin barrier maintenance and repair by integrating analysis of clinical specimens with translational models of host–microbiota interactions and multi-omic approaches. This presentation will highlight mechanisms through which the microbiota and its products directly 10
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contribute to skin barrier function, including antagonism of pathogenic microbes and interactions with keratinocytes that promote epithelial differentiation, barrier function, and repair. These mechanisms represent promising translational targets that could potentially be leveraged to promote optimal skin health and function.
n Elizabeth A. Grice, Ph.D.
Dr. Grice is Professor and Vice Chair of Basic Science Research in the Department of Dermatology, with a secondary appointment in the Department of Microbiology, at the University of Pennsylvania Perelman School of Medicine in Philadelphia. Her scientific training began as an undergraduate at Luther College in Iowa, followed by a Ph.D. in Human Genetics from Johns Hopkins University in 2006. Her postdoctoral work at the NIH pioneered sequencing-based approaches to profile the topographic and temporal diversity of the healthy human skin microbiome. Since 2012, Dr. Grice has led a multidisciplinary research group at Penn, integrating genomics, microbiology, skin biology, and immunology to investigate the roles of the skin microbiota in health and disease. She is also Director of the NIH P30-funded Penn Skin Biology and Diseases Resource Center (SBDRC) and Co-Director of the NIH T32-funded Penn Dermatology Research Training Program. Dr. Grice serves on the Board of Directors of the Society for Investigative Dermatology and on the editorial boards of Genome Research and Microbiome. She is a Fellow of the American Academy of Microbiology and has received numerous awards for her work, including the Penn Medicine Michael S. Brown New Investigator Award, the Penn One Health Award, the Burroughs Wellcome Fund Investigator in the Pathogenesis of Infectious Disease Award, and the Sun Pharma Research Award from the Dermatology Foundation. _____________________________________
The Role of the Pilosebaceous Unit in Skin Barrier Function
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Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. (Ashland, Inc.)
he skin barrier is traditionally described in terms of the stratum corneum, where corneocytes and highly organized intercellular lipids provide the principal defense against water loss and penetration of external substances. However, the skin barrier is considerably more complex, encompassing physical, chemical, microbial, and immunological components. Increasing evidence suggests that the pilosebaceous unit—including the hair follicle, follicular epithelium, and sebaceous gland—is an important and often underappreciated contributor to these functions. Rather than simply representing a discontinuity or potential pathway through the epidermal barrier, the upper hair follicle possesses its own permeability barrier and participates in communication with the surrounding interfollicular epidermis. The follicle also serves as a reservoir and potential route for the delivery of topically applied substances. The sebaceous gland further contributes to barrier homeostasis through the production of sebum and its complex mixture of lipids, which influence the physicochemical properties of the skin surface, microbial ecology, and innate immune defense. Together, sebocytes, follicular keratinocytes, resident microorganisms, and immune cells form a dynamic biological interface capable of responding to environmental and physiological challenges. Disruption of these interactions may contribute to inflammatory skin conditions and altered barrier function, while the follicular epithelium can also participate in epidermal repair following injury. This presentation will examine the current understanding of the pilosebaceous unit as an integrated component of the skin barrier and consider the implications of this emerging biology for skin health, topical delivery, and the development of future skin care technologies. _____________________________________
Modern Strategies for Skin Barrier Strengthening, Repair, and Protection
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Stephen Lynch, Ph.D. (L’Oréal USA)
s the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum serves as a semipermeable barrier against water loss and protects against penetration of external aggressors. Chronological aging, disease conditions, and exposure to external stressors can compromise stratum (continued on Page 12)
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corneum integrity and alter epidermal functions, including its capacity to protect against mechanical and chemical insults, maintain water balance, and support immunological defense. Established strategies for topical skin barrier strengthening through moisturization with classical humectants, emollients, and occlusives have been well described. This presentation will supplement these fundamental concepts with modern approaches that seek to more actively restore and optimize skin barrier homeostasis. Relevant examples include replenishment of barrier lipids and natural moisturizing factors, balancing moisture gradients, modulation of the skin microbiota, and management of chronic inflammation.
n Stephen Lynch, Ph.D.
Dr. Lynch is Associate Vice President of Skin Care Development for L’Oréal USA Research & Innovation, where he has worked since 2014. As head of Scientific Valorization, he leads a team that supports skin care product development from project initiation through market launch, with a critical focus on communication of scientific knowledge, selection of active ingredients, coordination of testing, and substantiation of product claims. His team supports well-known skin care brands including L’Oréal Paris, SkinCeuticals, La Roche-Posay, CeraVe, and Kiehl’s. Prior to joining L’Oréal, Stephen spent 10 years in the pharmaceutical industry conducting drug discovery research with Roche and Purdue Pharma. He holds a B.S. in Chemistry from the University of Richmond and a Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry from Emory University and has co-authored numerous peerreviewed publications across diverse fields of scientific research.
Is There a Correlation Between Self-Perceived Sensitive Skin and Skin Barrier Strength?
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Nava Dayan, PharmD, Ph.D. (Dr. Nava Dayan, Ltd.)
ensitive skin is a common condition characterized by discomfort such as stinging, burning, or itching in response to environmental or cosmetic triggers. While many individuals self-identify as having sensitive skin, the relationship between subjective perception and objective skin barrier integrity remains unclear. This presentation will explore the concept of sensitive skin, examine its prevalence across various populations, and discuss its impact on quality of life and skin care routines. The structure and function of the skin barrier will be reviewed, along with methods used to assess barrier strength, including transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and hydration measurements. Current research examining the relationship between sensitive skin and barrier function will be discussed, as will additional contributing mechanisms involving neural, immune, and psychological factors. Challenges associated with assessing sensitive skin will also be considered, highlighting the relationship between subjective experiences and objective measurements. The presentation will conclude with practical implications for skin care formulation and product development, as well as open questions and future research directions.
n Nava Dayan, PharmD, Ph.D.
Dr. Nava Dayan is a leading expert in skin science with more than 33 years of specialized experience in cosmetics, pharmaceutics, pharmacology, and transdermal delivery systems. Through her consultancy, Dr. Dayan provides scientific advisory services spanning formulation development, skin microbiome research, safety and toxicity assessment, clinical study design, and innovation consulting. She has edited five books and published hundreds of articles in scientific journals, contributing significantly to the field. Known for bridging rigorous scientific methodologies with practical product solutions, she is a frequent speaker at global scientific conferences, offering thought leadership on emerging trends in cosmetic R&D. _____________________________________
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Nutritional Modulation of Epidermal Function: Implications for Barrier Integrity and Skin Aging
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Michael Anthonavage, M.S. (Vitaquest International)
he epidermis is a metabolically active tissue whose function is tightly regulated by nutrientdependent processes, including keratinocyte differentiation, barrier lipid synthesis, enzymatic activity, and antimicrobial peptide (AMP) expression. This critical layer of the skin relies on diffusion of nutrients from the dermis, making systemic nutritional status an important determinant of barrier homeostasis. Nutrients and lipids supplied to the epidermis and pilosebaceous unit contribute to the structural basis of the permeability barrier and also act as signaling molecules that regulate proliferation, differentiation, and inflammation. These nutrients, together with those derived from the diet, are closely linked to epidermal differentiation through transcriptional regulation, biosynthetic pathways, intermediary metabolism, enzyme function, and microbiome regulation, thereby connecting nutrition with the innate immune functions of the skin. The cumulative effects of intrinsic and extrinsic aging can disrupt nutrient delivery through mechanisms including increased oxidative stress, microbiome alterations, flattening of the dermal– epidermal junction, and reduced gastrointestinal absorption and bioavailability. These changes may contribute to diminished barrier function, increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and microbial dysbiosis. Nutrient depletion within the skin may further exacerbate functional decline, resulting in skin that is less resilient and more susceptible to environmental insult. Targeted nutritional supplementation, including retinoids, niacinamide, essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and water- and lipid-soluble vitamins, may favorably modulate these pathways by supporting barrier composition and physiological activity, epidermal structure, and immune function throughout life. Collectively, these mechanisms position nutrition as an important consideration in cosmetic science and provide a biologically grounded strategy for addressing age-associated epidermal dysfunction and promoting healthier, more youthful-appearing skin.
n Michael Anthonavage, M.S.
Michael Anthonavage is a senior innovation, operations, and technology executive with more than 30 years of experience across nutraceuticals, personal care, R&D, consumer health, and clinical research. He serves as Vice President of Innovation and Product Development at Vitaquest International, leading strategic innovation, formulation development, and cross-functional execution to drive growth and collaboration. His expertise spans portfolio management, pipeline development, operations, and innovation. Previously, Michael served as Vice President of Operations and Technology at Eurofins Clinical Research Laboratories. He also held principal scientific roles at Johnson & Johnson, a Research Fellow position at Presperse, and a Director of Technology/Marketing role at Vantage Specialty Chemicals, where he led global bioactive platforms and innovation partnerships. Michael is a seasoned skin biologist, research scientist, and educator. He is a member of the International Probiotics Association (IPA), Council for Responsible Nutrition (CRN), and American Botanical Council (ABC), and has served on the Scientific Advisory Board of the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists for the past six years. _____________________________________
Understanding the Skin Barrier as a Living Interface: Predictive Surrogate Approaches to Dermal Bioavailability and Bioequivalence
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Seepra Rath, Ph.D. (Rutgers University)
he skin barrier is a complex, metabolically active interface that presents unique challenges for assessing dermal bioavailability (BA) and bioequivalence (BE). Historically, demonstrating BE for complex topical formulations has relied on costly and highly variable clinical endpoint studies. This presentation explores the shift toward a comprehensive suite of predictive surrogate approaches designed to capture the skin’s dynamic physicochemical properties. Established and emerging methodologies used to characterize dermal pharmacokinetics will be critically evaluated. These include regulatory-accepted methods such as the vasoconstrictor assay (VCA), traditional dermatopharmacokinetic approaches such as tape stripping, and high- (continued on Page 14)
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resolution spatial techniques including confocal Raman microscopy (CRM). The strategic application of in vitro release testing (IVRT) and in vitro permeation testing (IVPT) will also be discussed, along with advanced ex vivo human skin explant models such as Genoskin. The presentation will further examine how multidimensional empirical data can be integrated with physiologically based pharmacokinetic (PBPK) modeling. By combining physical characterization tools with mechanistic mathematical models, formulation scientists can simulate thermodynamic activity, partitioning, and spatial diffusion profiles. This integrated empirical and in silico framework has the potential to accelerate the rational design and evaluation of targeted dermatological therapeutics and sophisticated topical delivery systems.
n Seepra Rath, Ph.D.
Seepra Rath is a Postdoctoral Associate at the Center for Dermal Research at Rutgers University. Her research focuses on the development, characterization, and translational evaluation of topical semisolid formulations. Prior to joining Rutgers, she was a MITACS Accelerate Postdoctoral Fellow at the University of Toronto, where she worked on model-based population pharmacokinetics and pharmacodynamics. She completed her Ph.D. at Rhodes University, South Africa, where her research explored cost-effective and time-efficient alternatives to clinical endpoint studies, including in vitro release testing (IVRT) and tape stripping, to establish bioequivalence of topical drug products and support potential biowaivers. She has also been involved in clinical studies using vasoconstrictor assays to assess the bioavailability and bioequivalence of topical corticosteroids. Dr. Rath has presented her work at more than 25 conferences and has authored more than 17 peer-reviewed publications. _____________________________________
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Advanced Molecular Photoprotection Platform Steven Rosenfeld (The F.C. Sturtevant Company)
raditional sun care has focused primarily on preventing ultraviolet (UV) radiation from reaching the skin. However, UV exposure also initiates a cascade of biological responses, including oxidative stress, inflammatory signaling, disruption of cellular regulatory mechanisms, and damage to proteins and nucleic acids. These effects can contribute to photoaging, impaired skin homeostasis, and longer-term photodamage. This presentation introduces an advanced molecular photoprotection platform designed to extend sun protection beyond conventional UV attenuation. The approach integrates broad-spectrum UV filters with antioxidants, anti-inflammatory actives, and cellular-protective technologies intended to mitigate downstream biological responses to UV exposure and support the skin’s endogenous defense mechanisms. Particular attention will be given to emerging molecular targets involved in the regulation of UV-induced inflammation, including YTHDF2-mediated control of inflammatory mRNA signaling. By combining conventional photoprotection with strategies targeting oxidative stress, inflammation, and cellular resilience, this platform illustrates an emerging approach to next-generation sun care. Potential applications include daily and high-performance photoprotection, post-procedure care, occupational UV protection, and formulations for sensitive or high-risk populations.
n Steven I. Rosenfeld
Steven Rosenfeld has been with The F.C. Sturtevant Company for more than 28 years. Prior to joining FCS, Mr. Rosenfeld was Executive Vice President at Barnett Laboratories, a specialty products pharmaceutical company that was acquired in 1993. Mr. Rosenfeld is an engineer with a specialized background in acoustic phenomena. In January 2017, he was selected to receive the Albert Nelson Marquis Lifetime Achievement Award for his extensive experience and accomplishments in business. In 2018, Mr. Rosenfeld received the Pet Age Icon Award for his contributions to the animal health industry. A recipient of the Consumer Electronics Industry’s Design and Engineering Award (1985) and author of numerous articles, Mr. Rosenfeld is also a member of the National Academy of Recording Arts and Sciences and the Audio Engineering Society. Mr. Rosenfeld holds a Bachelor’s degree from Long Island University and was a Master’s degree candidate at St. Francis College. 14
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_____________________________________ Poster Session Topics
• Restoring Barrier Function with Colloidal Sulfur and Niacinamide – Lidia Kulcsar (Aurorium) • Beyond Sunscreen: A Systems-Based Platform for Next-Generation Photoprotection – Steven I. Rosenfeld (F.C. Sturtevant Company) • Skin Barrier as a Living Interface: Microbiota Disruption, Repair, and Prebiotic Inulin – Sharon Martin (Elevations LLC) • A Novel Amino Ester Technology Delivers Immediate Skin Surface Refinement with Enhanced Substantivity and Emolliency – Bryan Taylor (Inolex, Inc.) • A Multifunctional Sunflower Phospholipid Emulsifier to Support Skin Barrier – Adam Schatteman • Botanical Innovations for Skin Barrier Biology – Evellyn Juriaans (Chemyunion) • 3D Restoration of Skin Barrier Function by Plant Extract – Dawn Kosaik (Croda Beauty Actives) • Galactomannans from Ceratonia Siliqua to Improve Skin Healing – Océane Christinaz, PharmD, MBA (SILAB, Inc.) • Deciphering the Lipid Modulation in Dry Skin to Propose a Dedicated Barrier-Restoring Active Ingredient – Nirali Parikh (SILAB, Inc.) • Ex-Vivo Human Skin Model for the Assessment of Barrier Repair and Skin Functionality in Rinse-off Products – Susan Sperring, M.S. (Symrise SRL)
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Poster Session Abstracts and Poster Presenter Biographies
Restoring Barrier Function with Colloidal Sulfur and Niacinamide
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Lidia Kulcsar (Aurorium)
healthy skin and scalp barrier is essential for protecting against environmental stressors, maintaining hydration, and supporting a balanced microbiome. When the barrier is compromised, moisture loss, microbial overgrowth, and inflammation can occur, leading to symptoms such as redness, irritation, and itching. Common conditions, including acne, dandruff, and seborrheic dermatitis are often associated with barrier dysfunction. This discussion explores the link between impaired barrier function and inflammatory skin conditions, and how colloidal sulfur and niacinamide help restore barrier health in both facial skin and the scalp.
n Lidia Kulcsar
Lidia is an accomplished personal care scientist and technical leader with more than 30 years of experience in product development, formulation, application technology, and consumer testing within the personal care industry. She has authored and coauthored numerous patents, technical articles, and industry presentations. Lidia is currently the Applications Leader for Personal Care at Aurorium. Prior to joining Aurorium, Lidia served as Principal Scientist at Ashland where she developed innovative hair care technologies and managed the North American Hair Care and Styling technical team. Earlier in her career, she spent 16 years in product development at Clairol and Avon, where she developed and launched many successful commercial products. Lidia holds a Bachelor’s (continued on Page 16) degree from Vassar College.
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Beyond Sunscreen: A Systems-Based Platform for Next-Generation Photoprotection The Skin Barrier as a Living Interface: Biology, Disruption, and Repair
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Steven I. Rosenfeld (The F.C. Sturtevant Company)
PF quantifies only surface-level UV attenuation, yet skin cancer incidence and photoaging continue to rise despite increased sunscreen use. Consumer concern about UV-related harm has never been higher. UV exposure initiates oxidative stress, DNA photolesions such as 6-4 photoproducts, and microbiome disruption that persist beneath the surface even without visible sunburn. Surface filtration alone is an incomplete strategy for protecting long-term skin health. Conventional sunscreens are passive filters that reduce UV penetration but do not address the downstream molecular, cellular, and ecological consequences of exposure that drive cumulative photodamage, even when overt sunburn is avoided. We present a systems-based photoprotection platform that coordinates support across three layers of skin biology: molecular stability (DNA damage resolution, oxidative stress reduction, RNA integrity), cellular and immune function (immune modulation, signal transduction), and ecological resilience (postbiotic signaling to support microbiome balance and barrier function). Linking these layers is designed to shift skin from passively resisting UV exposure to actively defending and repairing itself under UV stress. This framework reframes photoprotection as biopreservation, sustaining the molecular, cellular, and ecological systems underlying skin structure and resilience, and proposes a paradigm shift for suncare formulation beyond sunburn avoidance alone. _____________________________________
Skin Barrier as a Living Interface: Microbiota Disruption, Repair, and Prebiotic Inulin
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Sharon Martin (Elevations LLC)
he skin barrier is a dynamic living interface in which the resident microbiota contributes to epithelial integrity, pathogen defense, chemical balance, and immune function. Environmental and chemical stressors, including UV exposure, pollution, harsh cleansing, ethanol, and preservatives can disrupt microbial stability and compromise barrier resilience. This poster examines the role of prebiotic inulin in supporting resident microbiota and microbial recovery following different forms of disruption. Studies demonstrate that topical inulin supports faster microbiota recovery after UV exposure, helps preserve microbial balance under ethanol-induced stress, and supports microbiota recovery following preservative challenge. Published human skin-barrier stress studies further demonstrate that recovery of microbial homeostasis occurs in parallel with restoration of barrier physiology, including increased skin hydration and normalization of transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The potential importance of microbiota resilience is further illustrated by supervised user studies in populations susceptible to recurrent microbial imbalance. In atopic-prone infant skin, 93% of evaluable babies remained free of diaper rash while using a cream containing 1.5% prebiotic inulin. In a femininecare study, 100% of 50 susceptible women experienced no discomfort or infection during use of a wash containing 1.5% prebiotic inulin. Importantly, these findings support a role for prebiotic inulin in maintaining microbial balance and resilience rather than treating active dysbiosis. Together, these findings demonstrate the potential of prebiotic inulin to support microbiota recovery and resilience across multiple disruption models and vulnerable skin environments. By nourishing protective resident microorganisms and helping maintain microbial homeostasis, prebiotic skin care may help strengthen barrier resilience and protect against recurrent dysbiosis, supporting healthier skin.
n Sharon Martin
Sharon has begun her 40th year in the personal care industry, bringing a background in biology and a B.S. degree from Kean University to a career that began at Revlon. Later, she moved to the ingredient supply side of the industry, where she held sales, marketing, and management roles with Sensient Technologies, Elementis Specialties, Vantage Specialty Chemicals, and Momentive Performance Materials. Sharon is currently President and owner of Elevations LLC, which she founded in 2002. In 2003, Elevations began working with Gobiotics Ingredients by Sweetch as the company introduced prebiotic ingredients for skin care. This early involvement gave Sharon the 16
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opportunity to watch—and participate in—the evolution of the industry’s understanding of the relationship between cosmetic ingredients, the skin barrier, and the skin microbiome. Over the past two decades, she has particularly enjoyed seeing microbiome science progress from an emerging concept to an important area of personal care research and product development, including the growing understanding of both the skin and oral microbiomes. _____________________________________
A Novel Amino Ester Technology Delivers Immediate Skin Surface Refinement with Enhanced Substantivity and Emolliency
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Bryan Taylor (Inolex, Inc.)
kin barrier integrity is essential for maintaining hydration, minimizing visible signs of dryness, and supporting healthy-looking skin. As consumers increasingly seek multifunctional ingredients that combine measurable skin benefits with elegant sensory properties, there is growing interest in naturally derived technologies that can support improved skin appearance without reliance on silicones or highly occlusive materials. A novel amino ester technology derived from 85% bio-based feedstocks was evaluated for its ability to improve skin surface condition, enhance formulation aesthetics, and provide sensory attributes relevant to long-lasting skin comfort. In a compromised forearm skin study, a topical formulation containing 7.5% amino ester technology was evaluated using VisioScan analysis four hours after a single application. Skin surface parameters associated with scaliness (SEsc) and smoothness (SEsm) were assessed, together with additional in vivo evaluations of visible skin appearance and skin-blurring effects. Supporting sensory studies characterized spreading, cushion, substantivity, and after-feel, including evaluation of the technology in formulations containing traditionally tacky humectants and polymers. Following a single application, the amino ester formulation produced measurable improvements in skin surface condition, including a 33% reduction in scaliness (SEsc) and a 30% improvement in smoothness (SEsm) after four hours. Visual assessment further demonstrated immediate refinement of skin texture and appearance consistent with a skin-blurring effect. Sensory profiling showed high spreadability comparable to dimethicone, while providing enhanced cushion, substantivity, and a nongreasy after-feel. The technology also improved the sensory profile of formulations containing tack-inducing humectants and polymers, supporting the development of barrier-care products that combine immediate sensory and appearance benefits with excellent cushion and a nourishing sensory profile. Together, these findings demonstrate the potential of this naturally derived amino ester technology as a multifunctional platform for next-generation skin barrier formulations, combining immediate skin surface refinement and reduction in visible dryness with enhanced substantivity and sensory elegance. The technology provides a differentiated approach to developing skin care products designed to support healthier-looking skin while delivering a desirable consumer experience.
n Bryan Taylor
Bryan is an Application Scientist III in R&D at Inolex. He graduated Summa Cum Laude with a Bachelor’s degree in Chemical Engineering with a minor in Chemistry, bringing more than seven years of experience in the chemical and cosmetics industry. He has held roles in production, formulation development, and customer care. Taylor has a publication on One-Step Conversion of Agro-Wastes to Nanoporous Carbons and a patent on Low-Impact Manufacturing Techniques for the Formulation of Ceramide Oil in Water Skin Health Applications. At Inolex, Bryan is responsible for the development and evaluation of skin care, hair care, and sun care ingredients. In his prior employment, he was a Principal Scientist who guided brands throughout the process from start-up ideas to commercial products with an emphasis on technology transfer and scale-up. He can be reached at btaylor@inolex.com. _____________________________________
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A Multifunctional Sunflower Phospholipid Emulsifier to Support Skin Barrier The Skin Barrier as a Living Interface: Biology, Disruption, and Repair
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Adam Schatteman
ddressing consumer needs while balancing pressure on formulation costs means that emulsifiers should no longer be limited to just their structural role. Emulsifiers must be truly multifunctional, bringing active properties directly to a formula. As a 100% natural-origin oil-in-water lamellar emulsifier, Heliosoft goes beyond simply stabilizing formulas. Its sunflower-derived skin-identical phospholipid composition gives it an intrinsic affinity to the stratum corneum, allowing it to actively reinforce the skin’s barrier function, restore lipid content, and deeply hydrate. Clinically, when tested on panelists with dry skin, emulsions with just 2% Heliosoft increased the skin moisturizing index by up to 33.9%, with effects lasting over 8 hours—performance typically expected of dedicated skin barrier actives. At 4% concentration, Heliosoft promotes a 26% increase in stratum corneum thickness and a 34% increase in neutral lipid content, rapidly restoring the lipid balance of damaged skin. From a formulation standpoint, Heliosoft offers equal versatility: it can emulsify up to 40% oil at 4% and can be used as a primary emulsifier, co-emulsifier, or skin-feel enhancer. It promotes lamellar bilayer structures at concentrations as low as 2%, contributing to both formula stability and the signature soft, second-skin sensory that is approved by panelists with sensitive skin.
n Adam Schatteman
Adam is an innovation-driven professional at the intersection of advanced ingredient science and strategic partnership development, with over a decade of experience translating cutting-edge cosmetic technologies into market-relevant solutions across personal care and consumer goods. Currently serving as Global Account Manager at Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant, he works at the forefront of active ingredient science to co-develop solutions addressing the most pressing challenges in modern skin care formulation. Adam’s career has been defined by leading joint R&D projects between internal and client organizations, delivering evidence-based presentations grounded in in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical data. His expertise spans formulation science, active delivery systems, and collaborative R&D, further anchored by co-authorship of a granted U.S. patent during his tenure at Colgate-Palmolive. He holds a Bachelor’s degree from Rutgers University’s School of Engineering.
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Botanical Innovations for Skin Barrier Biology _____________________________________
Evellyn Juriaans (Chemyunion)
he skin barrier operates as a highly dynamic, living interface that regulates moisture retention and protects against external aggressions. When this barrier undergoes physical or chemical disruption, rapid and effective repair mechanisms are essential. To address this, we evaluated the biological and clinical efficacy of two botanical ingredients: Physavie 250, a supercritical CO2 extract of Physalis angulata, and AcquaBio 3R MO, an Anadenanthera colubrina extract rich in polysaccharides. Clinical evaluations of Physavie 250 demonstrated significant preventive and restorative capabilities on compromised skin. In a preventive model using methyl nicotinate, a 5-day application of 0.5% Physavie 250 reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by up to 21% relative to the first day, reinforcing skin barrier function, whereas a 0.5% hydrocortisone treatment increased TEWL by 5.4%, exacerbating skin barrier damage. Furthermore, in a curative tape-stripping model simulating physical damage, a single application of 1.0% Physavie 250 promoted substantial barrier restoration, reducing TEWL by 24% after 48 hours and maintaining significant results for up to 72 hours. Complementing this restorative approach by reinforcing the biological architecture of the epidermis, AcquaBio 3R MO targets the structural integrity of the cornified cell envelope. In vitro analysis revealed that AcquaBio 3R MO intensely stimulates gene expression of crucial barrier proteins, boosting filaggrin by 323% (at 0.5%) and 731% (at 1%), and involucrin by 107% (at 0.5%) and 443% (at 1%). Clinically, this 18
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structural reinforcement translates into profound and sustained barrier improvements. An in vivo study showed that a 3% AcquaBio 3R MO formulation reduced TEWL by 15.8% at 14 days and 25.1% at 28 days. In addition, the ingredient exhibited a powerful long-lasting effect (remanence): barrier reinforcement persisted even after discontinuation of the product, with TEWL reductions remaining at 20% after 24 hours and 18.1% after 72 hours post-treatment. By combining the preventive and restorative properties of Physavie 250 with the deep biological barrier fortification of AcquaBio 3R MO, this botanical approach offers a comprehensive solution for skin barrier biology. Study authors: Cristiane Rodrigues da Silva Pacheco and Andrew Thomaz Camillo
n Evellyn Juriaans
Evellyn leads the U.S. Application Laboratory at Chemyunion, Inc. She holds a Bachelor’s degree in Chemistry from the University of Campinas (Unicamp), Brazil, and has over eight years of experience in cosmetic formulation. She has worked with international companies, including the L’Occitane Group, developing hair care and skin care formulations. In 2024, she led the establishment of Chemyunion’s Application Laboratory in Manalapan, New Jersey, where she focuses on ingredient application, formulation development, and technical support for the U.S. market. _____________________________________
3D Restoration of Skin Barrier Function by Plant Extract
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Dawn Kosaik (Croda Beauty Actives)
eramides are major lipids of the stratum corneum and play a pivotal role in epidermal barrier integrity, hydration, and resilience to environmental stressors. Alterations in ceramide content, chain length distribution and subclass balance—particularly a reduced NP/NS ratio—are well described in skin diseases and cutaneous aging. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of a plant-derived extract on key regulatory pathways of epidermal lipid homeostasis and particularly on ceramide synthesis. The effects of the extract were assessed by lipidomic analyses performed both in vitro on differentiated human keratinocytes (dHK) and in vivo using tape stripping samples collected from 18 volunteers after 28 days of daily application. Ceramide classes and molecular species were quantified by high-resolution Orbitrap mass spectrometry. Transcriptomic analysis was conducted in dHK and PPAR cell reporter assays were performed in the presence of the plant extract. Moisturization was assessed on 22 volunteers during the same study. Transcriptomic profiling revealed activation of sphingolipid metabolism pathways, with PLIN2 identified as one of the most upregulated genes (+466%). Consistently, reporter assays showed activation of all three PPAR isoforms. Lipidomic analysis confirmed a significant increase in total ceramides in dHK (+137%), a qualitative remodeling characterized by a preferential increase in long-chain ceramides (≥C46) and an elevated NP/NS ratio. In vivo, the formulated extract significantly increased long chain NP ceramides (≥C46) (+345%) compared with placebo and raised the NP/NS ratio (+148%). These molecular changes were associated with clinically relevant benefits. Skin hydration increased significantly (+12%) with 86% of subjects showing measurable improvement. This study demonstrates that a plant-derived extract can modulate epidermal lipid metabolism through PPAR-dependent pathways, leading to improved barrier-related lipid composition and clinically meaningful improvements in hydration and epidermal surface quality. Study authors: Thomas Ondet, Emmanuel Doridot, Philippe Mondon, and Caroline Ringenbach
n Dawn Kosaik
Dawn is the Business Development Manager for Actives at Croda, where she leads innovation strategy and growth for a wide array of ingredients. Her background spans decades in the personal care and cosmetics industry with experience in marketing, sales, strategic account operation, project management, and partnership management. With a background in veterinary technology and holistic healthcare, she is just as passionate about the beauty industry as she is with animal rescue organizations.
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Galactomannans from Ceratonia Siliqua to Improve Skin Healing The Skin Barrier as a Living Interface: Biology, Disruption, and Repair
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Océane Christinaz, PharmD, MBA (SILAB, Inc.)
romoting the healing of damaged skin and restoring tissue function are a major challenge to clinical care. During the healing process, the proliferation phase (involving granulation tissue formation, angiogenesis, re-epithelialization, and inflammation resolution) is critical for full barrier recovery. However, existing in vitro models often fail to replicate the complex interactions between vascular, immune, and cutaneous cells. This study focuses on the development of an in vitro 3D skin model enabling the study of skin-healing dynamics and substantiation of the mechanism of action of galactomannans (GM) from Ceratonia siliqua. The wounded vascularized and immunocompetent Silabskin FT (VI SILABSKIN FT) was obtained using a self-assembled approach. Normal human fibroblasts were seeded until dermal sheets formed. Then, normal human keratinocytes were seeded on a portion of the dermal sheets. Two dermal sheets and one dermis/epidermis sheet were layered. Endothelial and immune cells from the dermis of a donor were placed between the sheets. After 10 days of culture, VI SILABSKIN FT models were wounded with a biopsy punch. This innovative 3D skin model was characterized and validated. Then, it was used to analyze the dynamics of wound closure. GM from Ceratonia siliqua demonstrates a transversal action on the four pillars of the proliferation phase. They induce the synthesis of TGF-β and dermal markers, as well as collagen III, a principal fiber characteristic of the granulation tissue. This active ingredient promotes VEGF secretion and significantly increases vascular network density. It also stimulates secretion of growth factors, enhancing basement membrane re-establishment and epidermal differentiation. GM from Ceratonia siliqua also limits proinflammatory markers while favoring the M2 pro-regenerative macrophage population. Moreover, results demonstrated that this active ingredient accelerates wound closure, achieving a 34% increase in reepithelialized surface area within 30 hours. By combining 3D tissue engineering and latest-generation imaging technologies, this study demonstrates that this 3D in vitro model provides a powerful tool for real-time visualization of healing dynamics and confirms the potential of GM from Ceratonia siliqua to significantly enhance both the rate and the quality of cutaneous repair. Study authors: Francisco Santin De Souza, Laurie Verzeaux, Elodie Aymard, Véronique J. Moulin, Hélène Muchico, and Brigitte Closs
n Océane Christinaz, PharmD, MBA
Océane is the Area Sales Manager of the Softcare division at SILAB, Inc. Starting her journey at SILAB in January this year, she has experience in business development and marketing in the pharmaceutical industry in France. She holds a Doctorate in Pharmacy and an MBA in Marketing, Communication, and Healthcare with a background of five years in oncology and biosimilars.
Deciphering the Lipid Modulation in Dry Skin to Propose a Dedicated Barrier-Restoring Active Ingredient _____________________________________
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Nirali Parikh (SILAB, Inc.)
he skin barrier acts as a dynamic living interface, continuously adjusting its biochemical composition to maintain cutaneous homeostasis. In dry skin, this vital interface is disturbed, leading to elevated transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and dehydration. Recent findings indicate that changes in the lipid content and behavior are the primary drivers of permeability alterations. This study aimed to explore the lipids from the stratum corneum (SC) of dry skin directly in vivo by combining mass spectrometrybased lipidomics with Raman microspectroscopy. A clinical study was performed on the calves of Caucasian women, comparing a normal skin group 20
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(n = 19, mean age 56 ± 6 years, TEWL: 3.9 ± 0.6 g/h/m², hydration: 42 ± 10 AU) to a dry skin group (n = 15, mean age 53 ± 10 years, TEWL: 7.1 ± 1.8 g/h/m², hydration: 24 ± 6 AU). LC-MS/MS analysis of SC samples identified over 1,000 lipids, revealing that 47 lipids were significantly modulated between normal and dry skin, with 36 showing a reduction in dry skin. Moreover, Raman microspectroscopy was conducted in vivo to investigate the lipid packing in the SC. Results revealed a significant alteration of their conformation and organization in dry skin, reflecting an impairment of the barrier function. These unprecedented results thus provide a solid basis for the development of innovative solutions to meet the needs of dry skin. The efficacy of a natural active ingredient (INCI: Centaurea cyanus flower extract) formulated at 1% in an emulsion was then investigated on 18 volunteers with dry skin, after 14 days of use. Among the 36 lipids decreased in dry skin, this active ingredient restored the synthesis of 12 of them (7 ceramides and 5 free fatty acids). Additionally, Raman studies highlighted a significant improvement in the lipid conformation and organization, as well as in total water content with this active ingredient compared to a placebo formula. TEWL was significantly reduced, and hydration was improved. By deciphering the molecular dynamics of the lipid barrier, this study demonstrates how targeted active ingredients reinforce the lipid matrix of dry skin, thereby restoring barrier function. Study authors: Francisco Santin De Souza, Laurie Verzeaux, Elodie Aymard, Hélène Muchico, and Brigitte Closs
n Nirali Parikh
Nirali is an area sales manager for SILAB, Inc. She started working for SILAB in 2025 and has been developing cosmetic active ingredient sales on the East Coast and in the Midwest. She graduated with a Bachelor’s degree in Chemical Engineering and has a strong passion for cosmetic science. With previous formulation experience and a cosmetology license, she is excited to continue her work in the personal care industry. _____________________________________
Ex-Vivo Human Skin Model for the Assessment of Barrier Repair and Skin Functionality in Rinse-off Products
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Susan Sperring, M.S. (Symrise SRL)
inse-off products are designed to be washed off immediately after use; however, to a certain extent, some of their compounds can be absorbed and adsorbed by the skin. This characteristic makes the assessment of their effects on the skin crucial. The integrity of the skin barrier is essential for maintaining hydration, protecting against external aggressors, and supporting overall skin functionality. Effective evaluation of barrier repair mechanisms requires models that preserve the complex architecture and protein-lipid composition of human skin. To address this need, Symrise developed an ex vivo human skin model that closely replicates the native skin barrier and enables the assessment of physiological responses associated with barrier recovery. Unlike conventional in vitro cell culture systems, which often lack the structural complexity required to accurately predict skin responses, the ex vivo model maintains the functional characteristics of human skin, including its protein-lipid matrix and barrier properties. This allows for the evaluation of biomarkers and functional parameters related to barrier repair, resilience, and skin health under controlled experimental conditions. The model provides a robust and physiologically relevant platform for investigating the efficacy of cosmetic ingredients and formulations designed to support skin barrier restoration and improve skin functionality. These findings further demonstrate the value of ex vivo skin models as a predictive tool for generating clinically relevant insights into barrier repair and skin health. Study authors: Camila Paz Quezada Meza, Francesca Benato, Michele Massaroni, Marco Massaroni, and Dominik Stuhlmann
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The Skin Barrier as a Living Interface: Biology, Disruption, and Repair
(continued from Page 21)
n Susan Sperring, M.S.
Susan is a Technical Director at Symrise. Prior to Symrise, she worked at Momentive Performance Materials, where she was the North American Marketing Manager for Personal Care and Home Care, and at Avon Products, where she was a Chemist for Global Skin Care. Sue has a Bachelor’s degree in Chemistry from State University of New York College at Oneonta and a Master’s degree in Cosmetic Science from Fairleigh Dickinson University.
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In Memoriam Julio Gans Russ
January 7, 1937 – October 3, 2026
ulio Gans Russ, a respected cosmetic scientist and longtime member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, passed away on October 3, 2026, in Columbus, Ohio, at the age of 89. Born in Havana, Cuba, Julio built a distinguished career spanning nearly five decades in cosmetic research and development. He spent more than 35 years with Revlon, ultimately serving as Executive Vice President, Global Color Products, and 11 years with Maybelline, where he rose to Vice President of Research and Development. Throughout his career, Julio helped develop hundreds of cosmetic products and shades and contributed to such well-known product lines as Shine Free, Moisture Whip, Natural Wonder, Ultima, Borghese, Moon Drops, and ColorStay. An accomplished innovator, Julio was a co-inventor on numerous patents covering color cosmetics, long-wearing makeup, pressed powders, cosmetic pencils, mascaras, eyeshadows, and related technologies. His combination of scientific expertise, creativity, and product-development leadership made a lasting contribution to the cosmetics industry. Julio was an Emeritus Member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and served as Chair of the SCC Southeast Chapter in 1978. He was also active in the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association and generously shared his expertise through lectures, seminars, publications, and interviews. Among his professional honors was Revlon’s 1999 Charlie Award for Eyelash Mascara. Before his long career in cosmetics, Julio served in the United States Army from 1961 to 1963 and in the Army Reserve from 1963 to 1966. Julio was preceded in death by his beloved wife, Carol A. Russ. He is survived by his sons, Scott M. Russ, Jason H. Russ, and Ivan W. Russ, as well as his daughters-inlaw, Jill Russ and Elizabeth Russ. Beyond his professional accomplishments, he will be remembered for his integrity, generosity, curiosity, and devotion to family, friends, and colleagues. Julio leaves a lasting legacy in cosmetic science and among the many people whose lives and careers he touched. He will be deeply missed by his family, friends, colleagues, and the cosmetic science community.
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NYSCC History Project
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...Steve Herman
Fifteen Chairs Times Two
n October 24, 2015, a Gala Masquerade Ball was held at the Marriott Glenpointe in Teaneck to honor past chapter chairs. The fifteen past Chairs attendance and their year(s) as Chair were:
• Joseph Kratochvil (1970) • George Pollack (1972) • David Steinberg (1979) • Dino Muccia (1981) • Adele Levy (1982)
• Virginia Shen (1983) • Edward Yuhas (1989) • Steve Herman (1992, 2013) • Art Georgalas (2001) • Anna Gripp (2003)
• Alice Tenny (2004) • Amy Marshall (2006) • Joe Albanese (2009) • William Woods (2010) • Brian Hom (2011, 2012)
The Gala made its greatest contribution to our history by photographing fifteen Chapter Chairs together. It raised the question of whether photographs of the first fifteen chairs exist. The Journal of Cosmetic Science in the 1950s and early 1960s contained chapter news, so it is indeed possible. They are old black and white photographs that were scanned into PDFs, and the Chapter Chairs were generally in group photographs so they must be cropped, therefore quality is not their strong point. Still, they give us a window to the past and here they are, the men (there would not be a female Chair until Sharon Reich in 1978) who led us through the first decade and a half of our existence. Below are the first fifteen NYSCC Chapter Chairs: 1
2
3
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(4) Michael A. Stanton (1955) (7) William Lambert (1956) (6) Warren B. Dennis Jr. (1957) (8) Harry Isacoff (1958) (14) Theodore Ostrowski (1959)
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(1) John M. Longfellow (1960) (15) Saul A. Bell (1961) (12) Martin Katz (1962) (5) Arthur J. Cohane (1963) (11) Henry F. Maso (1964)
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(13) Charles Fox (1965) (3) Mitchell Schlossman (1966) (2) George A. Fioto (1967) (10) Maurice Rosenthal (1968) (9) Stephen G. Hoch (1969)
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What Touches Your Skin: The Role of Laundry and Personal Care Products
October 14, 2026 10:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m.
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Serafresca, Stamford, CT Event Moderator: Chris Burger
oin the NYSCC for a full day of science, connection, and conversation as we explore the surprising overlap between laundry care and personal care formulation, and what it means for the products that touch our skin every day.
Event Agenda
To register for this event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (nyscc.org).
10:00 – 10:40 a.m.
Rethinking Skin Care: The Evolution of Our Relationship with Skin Care – Peter Tsolis, M.S., MBA (Vice President of R&D, The Estée Lauder Companies)
10:40 – 11:20 a.m.
Bridging Academia and Industry: Advancing Cosmetic Science through Collaborative Research and Education – Huifang Li, Ph.D. (Research Fellow, University of Rhode Island)
11:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m.
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Lunch
12:30 – 1:10 p.m.
Sunscreen as a Second Skin: How SPF Formulation Influences Your Skin Beyond UV Protection – Marisa Plescia, M.S., MBA (Founder, FemChem Beauty and SCC President)
1:10 – 1:50 p.m.
Bridging Formulation Science: Similarities and Differences Between Laundry Detergents and Personal Care Products – Valerie Gendelsman, MBS (Senior Manager, Henkel)
1:50 – 2:15 p.m.
Break
2:15 – 3:00 p.m.
Keynote Q&A – Ellen Shepard, MBA (Senior Director, R&D Personal Care North America, Unilever) Moderated by Anushka Nadkarni, M.S. (NYSCC Chair)
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Registration Fees Members Early Bird: $30 per person Members Regular: $50 per person Non-Members: $130 per person Student: $10 per person At the door: $150 per person
Speaker Abstracts and Biographies
Rethinking Skin Care: The Evolution of Our Relationship with Skin Care
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Peter Tsolis (Vice President of R&D, The Estée Lauder Companies)
ur relationship with skin is evolving alongside advances in technology, shifting consumer behaviors, and changing perceptions of beauty and wellness. Technology is giving consumers new ways to understand their skin through AI-driven analysis, personalized products, biotechnology, and at-home diagnostics, while cultural and social influences continue to shape expectations for skin care and the products we use. These changes are pushing formulation science into new territory, creating opportunities to rethink how polymers, emulsifiers, delivery systems, and multifunctional ingredients can work together to deliver greater efficacy, stability, personalization, and sensorial appeal. By connecting the evolution of consumer behavior with advances in formulation technology, this presentation explores how the industry can move beyond simply responding to emerging skin care trends and instead formulate for what comes next.
n Peter Tsolis, M.S., MBA
Peter Tsolis is a globally recognized leader in cosmetic science. With a distinguished career spanning some of the world’s most prestigious beauty brands, including La Mer, Clinique, Estée Lauder, M.A.C, and Tom Ford Beauty, Peter has led the creation of breakthrough products, technologies, and innovation platforms that have helped shape the future of skin care and color cosmetics. He is widely respected for bridging cutting-edge science with consumer-driven innovation, translating emerging technologies and advanced materials into transformative beauty experiences. A prominent voice in the global scientific community, Peter is Past President of the U.S. Society of Cosmetic Chemists and serves as President Elect of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC). He is also an Adjunct Professor at NYU’s Tandon School of Engineering, where he teaches graduate-level polymer science. Peter serves on boards and advisory boards across academia and the beauty industry and holds undergraduate and graduate degrees in Chemistry from NYU, as well as an MBA from NYU’s Stern School of Business. An inventor and prolific contributor to the field, he holds multiple patents and is a sought-after speaker at leading global industry and scientific forums. _____________________________________
Bridging Academia and Industry: Advancing Cosmetic Science through Collaborative Research and Education
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Huifang Li, Ph.D. (Research Fellow, University of Rhode Island)
ollaboration between academia and the cosmetic industry provides unique opportunities to translate fundamental skin biology into innovative approaches for ingredient evaluation and product development. At the Botanical Bioactive Research Laboratory (BBRL) at the University of Rhode Island, we have established partnerships with cosmetic and ingredient companies, including local startups, to address emerging research needs in skin health and cosmetic science. This presentation will introduce our collaborative model and highlight research using cellular models of extracellular matrix remodeling, ferroptosis, oxidative stress, inflammation, and skin aging. These models support ingredient evaluation and help clarify the mechanisms of action. We will also discuss how advanced analytical and multi-omics approaches can strengthen ingredient characterization, biological assessment, and evidencebased decision-making. Beyond research, these collaborations create valuable (continued on Page 26)
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What Touches Your Skin: The Role of Laundry and Personal Care Products (continued from Page 25) opportunities for student education, interdisciplinary training, and workforce development. Together, academia and industry can build an integrated platform that advances scientific innovation while training the next generation of cosmetic scientists.
n Huifang Li, Ph.D.
Huifang is a Postdoctoral Fellow at the University of Rhode Island College of Pharmacy and Assistant Director of the Botanical Bioactive Research Laboratory (BBRL). Her work bridges academic research and cosmetic-industry needs by developing mechanistic approaches for evaluating cosmetic and natural-product ingredients. She uses cell-based models of extracellular matrix remodeling, ferroptosis, oxidative stress, inflammation, and skin aging, together with analytical chemistry, quantitative proteomics, and molecular target validation. Dr. Li has authored more than 30 peer-reviewed publications and contributes to collaborative projects with cosmetic and ingredient companies. She is also actively involved in teaching and mentoring students. Her work aims to translate molecular insights into scientifically rigorous, practical strategies for cosmetic ingredient evaluation and evidence-based product innovation. _____________________________________
Sunscreen as a Second Skin: How SPF Formulation Influences Your Skin Beyond UV Protection
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Marisa Plescia, M.S., MBA (Founder, FemChem Beauty and SCC President)
unscreen is often evaluated primarily for its ability to provide UV protection. Yet once applied, it becomes more than a photoprotective system. Sunscreen forms a persistent layer on the skin that can influence hydration, transepidermal water loss, occlusion, comfort, and the overall skin microenvironment. In this sense, sunscreen can function as a temporary “second skin.” This presentation will examine how the complete sunscreen formulation, including film formers, emollients, preservatives, and UV filters, can help shape the way the product interacts with the skin barrier. By viewing sunscreen as a second skin, formulators can move beyond evaluating UV filters alone and consider how the entire formulation affects both protection and skin performance.
n Marisa Plescia, M.S., MBA
Marisa Plescia is an experienced cosmetic chemist with extensive expertise and education, having received degrees and completed coursework in both the USA and Europe. She has earned four graduate degrees in Cosmetic and Fragrance Science, Business, and STEM education, graduating from both the University of Cincinnati Cosmetic Science program and ISIPCA in France. As the founder of FemChem Beauty, a formulation, R&D, and product development consultancy, Marisa leverages her years of experience as a formulator to innovate, create, and deliver high-performance personal care products. A dedicated member and volunteer in the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Marisa is the President of the National Board of Directors in 2026 and was previously the Twin Cities Chapter Chair (2020–2022). She has been quoted and featured in media including The Washington Post, NPR, and New York Times. _____________________________________
Bridging Formulation Science: Similarities and Differences Between Laundry Detergents and Personal Care Products
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Valerie Gendelsman, MBS (Senior Manager, Henkel)
aundry detergents and personal care products seemingly serve very different purposes. However, both categories use many of the same ingredient technologies, including surfactants, polymers, fragrances, and performance enhancers. This presentation explores the commonalities shared by laundry and personal care formulations while highlighting how differences in substrate, consumer expectations, and performance targets require unique formulation approaches. Through ingredient comparisons and real-world examples, attendees will gain insight into how similar raw materials can be 26
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implemented to achieve distinct results.
n Valerie Gendelsman, MBS
Valerie Gendelsman is an R&D leader with 10 years of experience developing innovative laundry, personal care, and cosmetic products. She currently drives formulation strategy for brand initiatives on The All laundry detergent product development team at Henkel. Prior to her current role, she led formulation development for Dial hand soap and gained experience developing hair care and cosmetic products at other CPGs. Valerie earned a Master’s degree of Business and Science in Personal Care Science from Rutgers University and a Bachelor’s degree in Chemistry from the University of Maryland College Park. _____________________________________
Keynote Q&A
Ellen Shepard, MBA (Senior Director, R&D Personal Care North America, Unilever) Moderated by Anushka Nadkarni, M.S. (NYSCC Chair) n Ellen Shepard, MBA
Ellen Shepard is Senior Director of R&D for Dove and Dove Men+Care, North America, at Unilever, where she leads the scientific innovation behind some of the industry’s most trusted personal care brands. A chemical engineer by training, Ellen earned her Bachelor’s degree in Chemical Engineering from UConn’s College of Engineering and later returned to Storrs for her MBA. Over a 25-year career at Unilever she has grown from process engineer to technical leader, working across skin cleansing, deodorants, and skin care, translating fundamental skin science into formulations, claims and products that reach millions of consumers. Her work has delivered a series of firsts for the category: Unilever’s first mass-marketed micellar water cleanser; Dove’s first body wash reformulation in 17 years, featuring 24-hour Renewing MicroMoisture technology; and Dove’s first-ever Women’s Wellness Range, bringing expert, science-backed care to women navigating perimenopause and menopause. In 2025 she was named an inaugural CEW Innovator in recognition of her contributions to beauty science. Beyond the bench, Ellen is a committed mentor and advocate for the next generation of scientists and engineers. She serves as a board member of UConn’s Gouin Women in Leadership Initiative, supporting the university’s next generation of women engineers and leaders. She is based at Unilever’s R&D site in Trumbull, Connecticut.
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NYSCC Employment Section
re you looking for a candidate that loves the personal care industry, who enjoys the thrill of designing a makeup product or shampoo? Or perhaps you are seeking someone with expertise in raw materials. Maybe you need some help around the lab and could use a tenacious intern who wants to start their career in the personal care space. The NYSCC Chapter supports you and your business with FREE postings to our webpage. Contact employmentadmin@nyscc.org to have passionate candidates apply to your roles. Recent postings include companies such as Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Kenvue, Olaplex, and Symrise for roles in sales, marketing, formulations, and regulatory. Below are some positions in the personal care industry that are currently posted on the NYSCC website. For a full description of the jobs, visit https://nyscc.org/jobs. • Account Manager – Personal Care – Omya (Northeast Region) • Source and Packaging Development Specialist – Garrett Hewitt International (Fishkill, NY) • Technical Marketing Manager – KOBO Products, Inc. (South Plainfield, NJ)
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The Bellwether: A Journey Through Beauty Innovation November 12, 2026 3:30 – 8:00 p.m.
Bell Works, Holmdel, NJ
Some events fill a room. This one invites you to explore it!
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he NYSCC Innovation Seminar is back—and this year, we’re doing something a little different. The Bellwether is an evening designed for the curious, the creative, and the people who know that the best ideas in beauty often start in a lab. Walk through an experiential maze of innovation stations, each one a window into where our industry is headed. Discover something unexpected. Talk to the people making it happen. Then, gather together for a panel discussion with voices shaping the future of cosmetic science, followed by dinner, conversation, and a little something extra to close the night. This is your community. Come experience it differently.
The Evening at a Glance
To register for this event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (nyscc.org).
• Experience Maze 3:30 – 5:15 p.m.
Explore a curated journey through immersive innovation stations. Fragrance, skin science, ingredient technology, and more—each stop designed to spark curiosity and connection.
Drinks and hors d’oeuvres will be served throughout.
• Panel Discussion 5:30 – 6:15 p.m.
A conversation with leading voices in cosmetic science. Thought-provoking, industry-relevant, and not to be missed.
• Dinner 6:15 – 8:00 p.m.
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A buffet-style dinner to close the evening—good food, great company, and a few surprises along the way.
Call for Papers
he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigious NYSCC Literature Award ($2,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger.mcmullen@gmail.com. 28
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NYSCC Education Night: Beauty Connections November 19, 2026 7:30 – 11:30 p.m.
Capitale, New York, NY
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e are thrilled to welcome beauty icon Bobbi Brown as our special guest at Education Night 2026! Great beauty starts with great chemistry, and Bobbi’s story began with ten simple lipsticks that launched Bobbi Brown Cosmetics and changed the beauty industry. Today, as the founder of Jones Road Beauty, she continues to redefine what beauty can be, and we can’t wait to celebrate with her. Beauty innovation is never built alone. Every breakthrough in our industry carries a story of connection: a mentor who pushed further, a collaborator who saw something first, a friend who challenged the status quo and made the next pinnacle possible. Join us on Thursday, November 19, 2026, at Capitale in New York City for Education Night: Beauty Connections, a black-tie evening celebrating the leaders, volunteers, mentors, collaborators, and supporters who shape our industry, and the students whose futures they are helping build. As always, the evening comes with purpose behind it: the NYSCC will award scholarships to the students and rising professionals carrying our industry into its next chapter. Education Night sells out every year, and with Bobbi Brown in the room, this one will go fast. Reserve your tickets today!
Event Details
• Date: November 19, 2026 • Attire: Black Tie • Event Duration: 7:30 – 11:30 p.m. • Venue: Capitale, 130 Bowery, New York, NY
Ticket Pricing
• Standard (September 28 to November 6): $175 Member / $200 Non-Member • Final Week (November 7 to November 13): $200 Member / $225 Non-Member
Ticket sales close November 13, 2026. For more information and to register, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).
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