Cosmetiscope December 2022

December 2022 • Vol. 28 • Issue 10

2022 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect Stacey House chair-elect@nyscc.org Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Alex Blakeman treasure-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Susanna Fernandes advisor@nyscc.org Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc.org At Home Live Series Gino Macalino gmacalin@estee.com By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org Special Events Johanna Gigliotti johanna@deverauxspecialties.com Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com Social Media Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org

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Letter from the Chair

2022: The Year in

Review

…Giorgio Dell’Acqua

ow! I can’t believe my year as Chair is coming to an end. It has been an honor and pleasure to serve this Chapter at its highest level. It is with a great sense of pride I look back on what we have accomplished this year and I am indebted to my hard-working executive board and the incredible volunteers who made it all happen.

A key milestone this year started with getting back to a full and successful schedule of in-person events. Every month our event chairs raised the bar on providing insightful programs on timely topics that featured world class speakers. With sold-out attendance or targets reached, these educational programs were on the mark. It was also great to reinstate our social activities with lots of networking and good times at our golf, fishing, and culinary events.

Of course, having Suppliers’ Day take place during its traditional May timeframe was a thrill and to have our focus on science and sustainability come to life for two days was rewarding. The event had strong, qualified attendance and its future trajectory is very bright as the main annual event in North America for ingredients and formulation innovations. New partnerships and international outreach are being formed and solidified for the 2023 program, providing even more value to our members and the entire beauty and personal care community.

Truly a highlight of my tenure was the “Careers in Cosmetic Chemistry” program that we held in person at Saint John’s University and Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), as well as virtually for Rutgers University. To meet with so many students and make them aware of all the career opportunities in cosmetic chemistry was extremely gratifying and I am excited and optimistic about the future talent pool for this industry.

The committees focused on students and young professionals also had a great year, with three times the number of scholarships and grants being awarded on December 7th. Read about all the recipients of this expanded program inside this issue. We also increased our mentorship pairings as well as the number of students participating in the Future Chemists Workshop.

My sincere gratitude to my peers, committee members, and the board for their unique skills, knowledge, and support that made this year a success on so many levels. I want to especially thank my executive board—Stacey, Luciana, Mo, and Alex—whom I relied on throughout the year, and Susanna for her guidance as Advisor. However, I do need to thank every single member as all of you contributed to the advancement of our chapter and its mission. The support and genuine enthusiasm this chapter has is unique and the camaraderie was evident at all our events and programs.

I can now pass the gavel to Stacey House with a feeling of great satisfaction and accomplishment, but also excitement and anticipation for the incredible future ahead for this flagship SCC chapter.

Wishing NYSCC members much joy, good health, and prosperity this holiday season and I look forward to seeing you again at our events in 2023.

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Issues Call for Presentations

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ake advantage of thought leadership positioning at the premier event serving the North American ingredients and formulations event, NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, taking place on May 2-3, 2023, at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center.

Programs will focus on the global marketplace and specific segments including fragrance, INDIE solutions, biotech, microbiome, digital solutions, sustainability, diversity/inclusion, and wellness — to name a few!

Submit your presentation description/details today at the NYSCC 2023 Suppliers’ Day website.

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Letter from the 2023 Chair 2022: The Year in

…Stacey House

t is an honor and a privilege to be your incoming Chapter Chair. Throughout my career, I have been so fortunate to have met and worked with some of the best in the industry, who not only taught me the scientific fundamentals, but also infused my passion and creativity for this industry. As 2023 is in sight, I am excited to get down to business and to build upon the incredible work that has been done by Giorgio Dell’Acqua and the chairs before him.

Our educational programs, anchored by Suppliers’ Day, will continue to dominate the landscape and move the needle forward in R&D, product development, and brand creation. With the stressors that we have all experienced in the last few years from the pandemic, the Chapter will also focus on “Reimagining Renewal and Wellness.” We will explore how wellness and eco-consciousness touches all areas of industry including devices, home care, and inside/out beauty, as well as feminine and intimate care.

Please take the time to read this retrospective issue that highlights all that the Chapter accomplished and gave to the community in 2022. With the expertise and guidance of the new executive board members—Amber Evans, Luciana Coutinho, and Alex Blakeman, and of course Giorgio Dell’Acqua, my trusted Advisor—we will be able to continue this Chapter’s mission of focusing on education in cosmetic science and elevating the role and prominence of chemists.

I am also looking forward to working with our dedicated program and committee chairs in offering diverse content and experiences that will be relevant and timely. I truly believe that having collaborative exchanges promotes growth and innovative vision and look forward to working with even more organizations and associations to foster, promote, and advance the Chapter’s mission.

Our outreach and support of students and mentorship of young professionals will continue to expand, and I look forward to sharing the exciting new initiatives we have planned.

May the beauty, happiness, and peacefulness of this holiday season surround everyone and cheers to a very bright New Year!

NYSCC/Suppliers’ Day Participates in SCC National Event in Los Angeles

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YSCC/Suppliers’ Day will be participating in SCC76 – The Annual Scientific Meeting & Showcase of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists taking place December 12-14, 2022, at the JW Marriott LA LIVE in Los Angeles, California. If you are attending, please stop by our exhibit (#701) during the Showcase Exhibition hours. While there, you can enter to win a free trip to NYSCC Suppliers’ Day in New York City on May 2-3, 2023, at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. This will include travel, hotel, and registration for NYSCC programs of your choice over the course of the event, which has come to be known as NYSCC’s Week of Beauty!

Platinum Sponsorship of this event provides a great opportunity to network with fellow West Coast members. We look forward to hosting another Suppliers’ Day “Press & Friends” gathering on Tuesday, December 13th in gratitude for partnership and support over 2022. We hope to see you in Los Angeles!

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MMP’s innovative actives and functional ingredients

Age Defying Hydration

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org January 19

Sun Care

Skin Beauty

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2022 NYSCC Events Calendar 2022: The Year in

February 17

Green Cosmetics

March 30

A Celebration of Color Lightbox, New York, NY Artificial Intelligence and its Application in Personal Care Legacy Castle, Pompton Plains, NJ Clean Beauty Chart House, Weehawken, NJ

April 20

Skin and Hair Diversity Seasons, Washington Township, NJ

May 3-4

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

June 16

NYSCC Boat Trip Atlantic Yachts, Weehawken, NJ

June 30

NYSCC Natural Ingredients Symposium Brooklyn Botanic Garden, Brooklyn, NY

July 25

NYSCC Golf Tournament Crystal Springs Golf Course, Hamburg, NJ

August 13 September 8 September 29 October 12

NYSCC Fishing Trip Atlantic Highlands, NJ Sunscreens – The Latest Updates and the Impact on the Environment Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ NYSCC Culinary Event Natirar, Peapack and Gladstone, NJ Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity, Social Progress, Circularity Central Park Boathouse, New York, NY

November 8

Scalp and Skin Microbiome Nanina’s in the Park, Belleville, NJ

December 7

NYSCC Supports Education Night 2022 – The Edison Ballroom, Hotel Edison, New York, NY

December 12-14

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SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase – JW Marriott L.A. Live, Los Angeles, CA

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Meet the Future of Cosmetic Chemistry 2022: The Year in

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NYSCC Supports the Next Generation with Several Programs Including Careers in Cosmetic Chemistry

by Tom Branna, Editorial Director, Happi

This article originally appeared in Happi, published on November 10, 2022.

t’s one of the best-kept secrets in the recruiting business. A career in cosmetics is rewarding, exciting, and fun. No wonder why most chemists, marketing execs, and sales reps never leave the beauty industry—they just move to another marketer or supplier.

But in order to begin a career in cosmetics, newbies must know where to start. The New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) is providing a roadmap for soon-to-be graduates by hosting panel discussions on careers in cosmetic chemistry. The NYSCC Career in Cosmetic Chemistry series provides a forum where college students can ask beauty industry executives about their careers.

Panelists include: • Dr. Sue Feng, Ph.D., CSO, ET Browne • Dr. Tao Zheng, Ph.D., MBA, Director, Advanced Technologies/Material Science, Estée Lauder and SCC Scientific Committee • Dr. Amber Evans, Ph.D., Senior Manager, Product Development, Moroccanoil and NYSCC Scientific Committee • Toussaint Jordan, Brand Manager, Edgewell and Chair, NYSCC Scholarship Committee • Dr. Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D., CSO, Nutrafol and Chair, NYSCC • Stacey House, Senior Vice President, R&D Consumer Beauty Color and Skin, Coty LATAM and Chair-Elect, NYSCC So far, the panel has traveled to the campuses of St. John’s University in Queens and the Fashion Institute of Technology in Manhattan. They have also traveled (virtually) to New Jersey to the New Brunswick Campus of Rutgers University. Panelists shared their personal career journeys, discussed hot topics in cosmetic chemistry and personal care, and answered questions from inquisitive, young minds. The program excited students and panelists, alike.

“All of us walk away from these events energized by the keen interest displayed by this next generation of talent,” said Dell’Acqua. “We want to get young chemists, as well as students in marketing and sales, interested in the cosmetics industry. They have choices, and some go into pharmaceuticals or the food industry.”

To convince students to make the right choice and choose cosmetics, NYSCC has four initiatives: • Scholarships to support students financially.

• Mentorship to support students by connecting with beauty industry veterans.

• Future Chemists Workshops to expose students to a laboratory atmosphere.

• Career in Cosmetic Science Panel to expose them to experts in the field.

About 50 students attended the recent Career in Cosmetic Science Panel at FIT. According to Dell’Acqua, students asked about ingredient sourcing, cosmetic regulations, and internship opportunities.

And, in a nod to the popularity of indie beauty, came the question, “Why don’t you create your own brand?” Short answer: It’s not as easy as you think, kid!

The Careers in Cosmetic Chemistry program is relatively new, but it’s already having an impact.

Dell’Acqua relayed a conversation he had earlier this year with two St. John’s University students. He urged them to register for NYSCC Suppliers’ Day. Not only did the Red Storm students attend Suppliers’ Day, they joined the Society and later, contacted Dell’Acqua to thank him.

“It is very satisfying to know that you may have changed a student’s life,” Dell’Acqua told Happi.

“When you give them access, when you open the door, they can walk right through it.”

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2022 NYSCC Symposia and Seminars 2022: The Year in

January 19th A Celebration of Color

Light Box • New York, NY Event Chair: Howard Epstein, Ph.D. w w w.validatedcs.com 400 Frank W. Burr Blvd. Suite 105 Glenpointe Atrium Teaneck, NJ 07666

February 17th Artificial Intelligence and its Application in Personal Care

The Legacy Castle • Pompton Plains, NJ Event Chair: Hani Fares, Ph.D.

March 30th Clean Beauty – Minimalism in Formulation

Chart House • Weehawken, NJ Event Chair: Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D.

April 20th Skin and Hair Diversity: Bridging the Gap Between R&D and Marketing Seasons • Washington Township, NJ Event Chairs: Desiree Reid and Alex Bliziotis

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June 30th NYSCC Natural Ingredients Symposium Brooklyn Botanic Garden • Brooklyn, NY Event Chair: Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.

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September 8th NYSCC Sunscreens and Environmental Impact Seminar

Pleasantdale Château • West Orange, NJ Event Chair: Howard Epstein, Ph.D.

October 12th Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity, Social Progress, Circularity Central Park Boathouse New York, NY Event Chairs: Stacey House and Ben Blinder

November 8th Scalp and Skin Microbiome Nanina’s in the Park • Belleville, NJ Event Chair: Mythili Nori

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2022 NYSCC “At Home Live” Series

Responsible Beauty Always a better solution.

2022: The Year in

he NYSCC “At Home Live” Series is a webinar program that launched in March of 2020 during the height of COVID. Dozens of programs have been produced and provide our members an easy and comfortable way to stay informed and move their professional development forward.

These free educational programs continued through 2022 attracting on average nearly 300 registrants and 52% conversion rate of live attendees per presentation, including a global audience representing 70+ countries.

Barentz is an environmentally conscious personal care ingredients & specialty chemical supplier with sustainability in mind. www.barentz-na.com

March 2nd The Four Pillars of Sustainable Beauty

– Lorraine Dallmeier (Formula Botanica)

March 31st Suppliers’ Day Preview Event: Ethical Sourcing and Biodiversity – Melanie Duprat (Naturex SA)

April 26th Suppliers’ Day Preview Event: Green Formulations and Ingredients – Izabela Staniszewska, Ph.D. (Presperse)

September 15th Developing Eco-Conscious Sunscreens

– Luciana Uttembergue D’Elia (DSM)

October 19th Strategy for the Future of a Sustainable Personal Care Industry

– Pascale Goyat (Natura-Tec) and George Rosson (Ceratec Sarl)

November 2nd Top Trending Ingredients and Formulations: Hear from the CEW Supplier’s Award Judges – Andrea Nagel (CEW)

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2022 CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Awards Winner 2022: The Year in

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SymHair Thermo by Symrise, Inc. is the 2022 CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Awards Winner

ymHair Thermo by Symrise, Inc. was announced the winner of the prestigious CEW Beauty Creators Awards on November 11th at the Ziegfeld Ballroom during CEW’s 29th Beauty Creators Awards Luncheon. This special award category for Supplier’s: Ingredients & Formulation is sponsored by the NYSCC and recognizes the role that ingredients, formulation, and new technology plays in successful beauty and personal care product launches.

SymHair Thermo is a sustainably sourced, 100% natural, vegan heat protection hair care active sourced from mushrooms. It’s also infused with hyaluronic acid and polysaccharides.

In terms of benefits, this ingredient aims to protect hair from heat damage and maintain style longer, especially in high humidity. It also aims to be a silicone replacement for hair care formulations.

Symrise was one of eight finalists that were selected from more than three dozen submissions that were reviewed and voted upon by a curated panel of judges that included leading beauty and personal care brands as well as members of the NYSCC Scientific Advisory Committee. The judges were: Toussaint Jordan, Brand Manager, Product Marketing, Edgewell; Eileen Kim, Head of U.S. Innovation and Research Prospective Team, Chanel; Ron Robinson, Founder/CEO, BeautyStat.com; Mike Wong, Chief Science Officer, Orveon; and Tao Zheng, Director, Advanced Technologies/Material Science, The Estée Lauder Companies.

The other CEW Supplier’s Award finalists were: Seanactiv

by BASF; Berashades by Clariant; ChromaPur CV2 & CV7 by Croda; Nutrivent Balance by Croda; Elastapure by Geltor; Anti-Glyc-Aging Zinc Screen by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics; and Peptilium by Silab.

“This award matters because it showcases the next generation of ingredients and formulas that are key to creating beautiful, safe, and efficacious products,” said Eileen Kim one of the judges. “It celebrates the work of suppliers to push the industry forward,” she added.

CEW is a nonprofit, professional organization with more than 10,500+ members globally, both men and women, from over 3,500 companies in the beauty and retail industries.

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2022 NYSCC Highlights 2022: The Year in

NYSCC Participates in Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Ribbon Cutting

NYSCC Participates in the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) Science Symposium

NYSCC Future Chemists Workshop

NYSCC Culinary Event

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Review Kamini Barot Sales Director - Americas kbarot@orchidia.com (732) 353-9706 www.orchidia.com

Sustainability and Cosmetics

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by Tom Branna, Editorial Director, Happi

This article originally appeared in Happi, published on November 10, 2022.

ustainability remains front and center for cosmetic industry suppliers, formulators and, most importantly, consumers. A February 2022 survey of 16,000 global consumers found that more than half (51%) of respondents say environmental sustainability is more important to them today than it was 12 months ago, according to a global survey conducted by IBM Institute for Business Value. IBM also found that consumers’ actions are starting to match their intent. Half of consumers said they’ve paid a premium—a whopping average of 59% more—for products branded as sustainable or socially responsible in the past 12 months.

With that in mind, the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) recently held an all-day seminar on the topic of sustainability. The event was co-chaired by Stacey House, KDC/One, and Ben Blinder, Gattefossé. “Every year the NYSCC Chair pre-determines the monthly event program and the event chairs get to work to determine the location and identify the best speakers to support our focus. We select themes that are relevant to our members and the industry to keep all dialed into current topics,” noted House. “Sustainability happens to be one that is not a trend, but an opportunistic challenge that impacts all of us today with our decisions starting from a product concept to our purchases.”

Blinder noted that NYSCC Chair Giorgio Dell’Acqua is heavily invested in the topic of sustainability, circularity, and naturality. “He gave us the general topic but left it to Stacey and me to organize the speakers and program,” said Blinder. “We received a lot of support from the NYSCC team to help organize the practical details of the event, such as booking the venue, publicity, and managing registrations. That allowed us to focus squarely on the content and the speakers.”

House said she was very pleased with the turnout. In fact, the event, held at The Loeb Boathouse in Central Park, New York City, was sold out and sustainability will again be on the NYSCC Seminar agenda in 2023.

Blinder noted that people often think of sustainability simply as “recycling” and “reducing waste” but it is so much more than that. “There is so much more to be done to improve sustainability in our industry, and the speakers gave us a lot to think about,” recalled Blinder. “They also made it personal; by that I mean that in addition to large-scale efforts the audience could support within their own companies, the speakers also suggested many things individuals can do on a personal level; for example, relating (continued on Page 12) sustainability to concepts like diversity, equity, and inclusion.”

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(continued from Page 11)

All the World’s a Stage…for Sustainablity Efforts

Reuse is a key component of sustainability, yet it is a poor stepchild in most discussions regarding reduce-reuse-recycle. Sandra Goldmark, Barnard College/Columbia Climate School, reworked the conversation by pointing to a World Resource Institute study that found by doubling global circularity in the next 10 years, global greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions could be reduced by 39% and shrink the total material footprint by 28%.

Sandra Goldmark  Barnard College/Columbia Climate School

Reuse took centerstage when Goldmark detailed a Barnard College case study involving stage scenery. “Thousands of pounds of stage scenery ended up in the dumpster,” she recalled. In her study, Goldmark found all new scenery material cost $10,000. Half used/half new cost $5,000 and all used scenery cost just $2,000.

Goldmark took those lessons to the street, with Fixup, a series of pop-up repair shops all over New York City. The company was originally staffed by stagehands. “Stagehands can fix anything,” she noted.

Since its inception, the program has fixed lamps, small appliances, jewelry, clothing, and more. Fixup partners with companies such as Patagonia and Darling Coffee, as well as organizations like the YMCA. Next, she wrote a book on the experience, called Fixation: How to Have Stuff Without Breaking the Planet. “The circularity wave is happening,” Goldmark insisted, noting that by 2040, Target plans for 100% of its owned brand products to be designed for a circular future.

Searching for Sustainability via Spate and Google

Spate mines Google search data to uncover trends in a variety of industries. Ironically, according to Spate Co-Founder Yarden Horwitz, consumers are showing interest in “sustainability,” but are not using that language for beauty. “In beauty, language is evolving, and certain categories are more top-of-mind for sustainability,” she said. For example, there’s been a 36.7% year-over-year increase in Google searches for “sustainable soap” and related terms.

More impressive, searches for “sustainable nails” jumped 62.4%.

But at the same time, there’s been a 32.2% increase in searches related to “sustainable sunscreen.”

Yarden Horwitz, Spate 

“Consumers were looking at terms such as ‘reef-safe sunscreen,’” she noted. Horwitz turned to the growing clean beauty trend. The top trending clean beauty brands based on Google search data are: The Ordinary, Olaplex, Beautycounter, Supergoop, and Tatcha.

Fast-climbing beauty brands in the space include Merit Beauty (144.7% year-over-year growth) and Topicals (134.8%). “Being a clean beauty brand doesn’t mean you’ll win, but it helps to build trust for new brands,” she concluded.

Biology Is THE Technology

The NYSCC may need a new name. Biotechnology is reshaping the cosmetics industry, according to Arcaea’s Jasmina Aganovic. She commended the industry’s move to a plant-based supply chain but noted that if Procter & Gamble moved its entire manufacturing procedures to a plant-based model, it wouldn’t find enough feedstock on the market. Instead, Aganovic argued, the solution is biotech.

She reviewed several common beauty ingredients and explained how biotech makes them better.

For example, panthenol was traditionally derived from petroleum, but the material can be created via 12

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bacterial fermentation. Squalene, at one time, was extracted from sharks, but it can be made via yeast fermentation. And hyaluronic acid, the humectant-of-the-moment, once came from rooster combs, now it comes from bacteria.

Jasmina Aganovic, Arcaea 

“Think about what we could create if we built products based on biotechnology,” she said. “The future is expressive biology.

It is a new ingredient palette based on the Tree of Life!” Ginkgo Bioworks just does that. The company programs cells to make everything from food to materials to therapeutics.

Arcaea was incubated in Ginkgo Bioworks and is a growing presence in the beauty business. Earlier this year, Arcaea acquired Gadusol Laboratories, an Oregon State University spinout that seeks to synthetically produce UV-absorbing compounds found in marine life. No launch date has been set, but Aganovic has stated her goal is “developing the cosmetic lab of the future” and building a “biology-first minded beauty company.”

What companies are investing in biotech? Aganovic used an X and Y axis graph to plot the leaders and laggards in the field. Among global CPG companies, Natura and L’Oréal standout. Indie beauty leaders include The New and Beautycounter. Top biotech startups are Amyris and Checkerspot. On the supply side, leaders include Givaudan, Croda, and Firmenich.

How do these companies assess their progress? Aganovic said multinationals and their suppliers rely on globally recognized, science-based metrics. For multinationals, that includes LCA-based targets that include Scope 3 emissions and consumer-use phase. Leading suppliers also use Scope 3 emissions. In contrast, according to Aganovic, only one indie brand, Beautycounter, mentions mapping 53 emissions and engaging their suppliers in sustainability efforts. Other takeways? Among multinationals, zerodeforestation claims are universal and other ingredient related targets, such as 100% biobased (L’Oréal) and 100% biodegradable (Unilever) are beginning to emerge. Among suppliers, terms like “bio-based” and “no deforestation” are beginning to emerge. Among indie brands, locally sourced and reduced transportation goals are unique to this category as they are feasible for smaller brands, according to Aganovic, citing third-party landscape assessments.

To get started on a sustainability journey, Arganovic suggested the following steps: material assessment; target setting and reporting frameworks; product design with lifecycle thinking (design for the environment); supplier engagement; and external partnerships. She noted that materiality defines what can have significant impact on the activities of an organization and on the ability of the organization to create value for itself and stakeholders. Aganovic suggested using a globally recognized reporting framework and set of standards lends credibility to the numbers and, more importantly, provides guidance around impact. She called the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) the most highly regarded reporting framework within the industry.

“The product design process must include life cycle thinking in order to achieve net positive impact for the company,” she said. “Industry leaders already have targets for 2030 across the whole product life cycle.” But to truly achieve net-zero or net-positive status, marketers must partner with suppliers. The Carbon Disclosure Project and Ecovadis are two widely used organizations that help suppliers reach their sustainability goals. As a supplier, Aganovic noted that Arcaea will be subject to the ESG assessments that many large retailers use. Walmart’s Supplier Sustainability Assessment Questionnaire is a good example.

Connecting Formulators and Suppliers

How can formulators find like-minded suppliers? Yashi Shrestha, Novi, walked attendees through the current jargon, noting that “clean beauty has evolved beyond ‘free of’ claims.” To safety and efficacy requirement, the market demands sourcing and end-of-life data. At the same time, ingredients and formulas must have negligible impact on climate and society. (continued on Page 14) She reviewed popular labels such as USDA Organic, Ecocert, and Credo and

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noted that as consumers demand more transparency, retailers have responded by updating their policies and compelling brands to look deeper into their supply chains. “It is important for the industry to collaborate in order to improve transparency,” Shrestha explained. “Novi enables data-driven formula development.”

The company extracts thousands of data points from supplier documents which feed internal algorithms that vet ingredients and products. Novi’s all-in-one workflow helps regulatory departments vet every ingredient against sustainability standards and claims and provides access to substantiating documentation for validation as well as product registration needs. For procurement departments, Novi provides real-time access to supplier quotes and availability, and facilitates purchase orders, shipping, and transaction reports. For R&D departments, Novi’s marketplace allows discovery of innovative ingredients that meet the brand’s product briefs with readily available technical information.

“We work directly with retailers, brands, and suppliers to inform every side of the system. It is important for industry to collaborate in order to improve transparency.”

The Sustainable Packaging Picture

Adrian Apodaca, HCT Packaging, took to the podium and admitted, “I am a plastic addict. It is functional, cheap, and versatile.” And not good for the planet. The new normal for beauty packaging, he said, is functional, sustainable, utilizes recyclable and/or recycled materials, and is refillable when possible. “The main goal for new packaging is to reduce single use plastic as much as possible,” Apodaca insisted.

He reviewed several cosmetic packages that do that. Fenty’s Icon lipstick outer componentry contains PCR material. It is refillable and durable for many reuses. Similarly, Skkn by Kim packaging contains PCR material.

Its refillable componentry is polypropylene and cartons are made with recycled paper pulp. The Humanrace sun care line includes up to 60% PCR on outer componentry. The refillable tubes make it possible for outer componentry reuse.

Adrian Apodaca, HCT Packaging 

Despite these advances, it’s obvious that plastics will remain a key component of beauty packaging. To improve sustainability profiles, the goal is to replace most if not all a component’s part list with a single material. Traditionally, packagers used a variety of different plastics and other materials to fine-tune function and aesthetics for each part. Moving to single material is easier for simple componentry like bottles, but it becomes a challenge for mechanical assemblies such as pumps and lipstick mechanisms, noted Apodaca. Some marketers are getting there. NuSkin’s Nutricentials Hyaluronic Acid Pump, for example, has outer componentry made from polypropylene and PCR content. Its refillable inner chamber is made from 100% polypropylene.

Manufacturers and suppliers aren’t the only culprits in the plastics issue. Apodaca noted that it takes plenty of diligence by end users to properly recycle components—and proper recycling infrastructure is lacking in most of the U.S. “Even with proper recycling, there is a limit to how much PCR plastic can be used and how many times it can be recycled,” noted Apodaca.

Of course, plastic isn’t the only headache for recyclers. Most cardboard palettes have an outer plastic coating that prevents them from getting properly recycled. The best option is to use uncoated cardboard.

To further reduce recycling issues, Apodaca recommended tin jars replace outer plastic packaging. The inner container could be polypropylene for recyclability. These innovations won’t cure the beauty industry’s plastic addiction but could temper it.

Transparency, Traceability, and Green Chemistry

Shaun Barker, Estée Lauder Companies (ELC), said sustainability has been central to how ELC and its brands have operated. But he also noted that many blame the cosmetics industry for making false 14

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claims and greenwashing. Barker blamed it, in part, to a disconnect between cosmetic labels and consumer understanding. He pointed to a Mintel survey that found: • 68% of respondents said it is important or extremely important to consider the ingredients when deciding which products to buy.

• Only 2% of respondents understand the entire label.

• 45% are often confused by the ingredients.

• 80% of U.S. consumers are confused regarding overall labeling.

Shaun Barker, The Estée Lauder Companies 

To improve transparency at ELC, the company maintains glossaries on more than 100 key ingredients across 11 brands, as well as an ELC corporate glossary. These glossaries detail the functionality, and in some cases, sourcing of these ingredients. “We use blockchain for traceability,” Barker added. He noted that Aveda was one of the first beauty companies to launch a commercial blockchain. The technology debuted in 2019 and focused on the Madagascan vanilla supply chain. Consumers use online mapping tools to follow vanilla’s journey from Madagascar to France to Minnesota. Now, the technology is expanding to other key ingredients. ELC incorporates green chemistry principles in its product development process.

“It took 10 years to develop this system,” said Barker, explaining the company spent many years collaborating with experts in the field, assessing its internal capabilities, and developing tools to enable ELC teams to seamlessly leverage green chemist in their daily work. Central to the ELC approach is the Green Score Program which, Barker explained, provides a quantifiable method for its formulators to benchmark and inform their formulation choices based on the principles of green chemistry.

Green Score data can be leveraged to inform and guide future innovation, according to Barker.

Specific ingredient choices can have different magnitudes of impact on formula Green Scores. For example, impacts are influenced by formulation choice complexity and respective ingredient Green Scores, use levels, and efficacies. The tool will be continuously updated, too.

Barker reviewed several ELC packaging goals. For example, by 2025, 75-100% of packaging will be recyclable, refillable, reusable, recycled, or recoverable. Also, by 2025, ELC will increase the amount of PCR material in its packaging to 25% or more. He reviewed the company’s climate accomplishments such as sourcing 100% renewable electricity globally for its direct operations. The company has solar projects in New York, Minnesota, and Switzerland. Regarding social investment, 95% of ELC brands identify causes that are meaningful to them. Since 1992, The ELC Breast Cancer Campaign and Charitable Foundation have funded more than $108 million globally.

Cradle to Cradle Certified

Noting that 95% of packaging in the cosmetics industry is thrown away, Monica Becker, Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute, told attendees it is critical to formulate for the circular economy.

“Today, only 8.6% of the global economy is circular,” she explained. “We need to get to 17% to make an impact.”

The Institute’s vision is a world where safe materials and products are designed and manufactured in a prosperous, circular economy to maximize health and wellbeing for people and planet. “The transition to renewable energy will address only 55% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions,” said Becker. “The remaining 45% must be addressed by transforming the way we make and use products.”

The Cradle-to-Cradle principles are a design framework characterized by three principles derived from nature: • Everything is a resource for something else • Use clean and renewable energy • Celebrate diversity (continued on Page 16)

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Shaping tomorrow’s beauty through innovation and formulation expertise Explore what’s next with IMCD experts at imcdus.com.

2022: The Year in Sustainability and Cosmetics

Review

(continued from Page 15)

According to the Institute, safe, circular, and responsibly made cosmetics involve three channels: • Ingredients that are safe for humans and the environment. They should be renewable, upcycled, rely on regenerative agriculture, and responsibly sourced.

BEAUTY

begins here.

Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care.

GO

• Manufacturing that relies on renewable energy, water, and material efficiency, and respects human rights and fair and equitable business practices.

• Packaging that uses safe chemicals and materials; includes PCR and renewable content; is designed for refill, recycling, and composting systems; and supports infrastructure for circular systems.

Becker called the Cradle to Cradle Certified program the most ambitious and actionable standard yet for designing and manufacturing products and packaging that is safe, circular, and responsibly made.

It addresses material health, product circularity, clean air, and climate protection; water and soil stewardship; and social fairness. She said the program provides a pathway to measurable improvements and innovation. The program certifies products, packaging, or both.

Cradle to Cradle-certified brands include: Beauty Kitchen, Blueland, Frosch, L’Oréal hair care (Carol’s Daughter, Garnier, L’Oréal Paris Elvive and Ever Pure, Pureology, and Redken), Maybelline, and Nu by YSL.

Going Beyond RSPO

The Roundtable for Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) got the conservation conversation going on one important cosmetic ingredient. But what’s next? Laurent Schubnel, Gattefossé SAS, detailed Action on Sustainable Derivatives (ASD). The industry-led platform brings together companies in the home, personal care, and oleochemicals industries to collectively tackle supply chain issues around palm oil and palm kernel oil derivatives.

This collaborative effort includes suppliers and formulators who share the same objective and ambition to accelerate transformation of the complex palm derivatives sector. ASD’s three main goals are: no deforestation, human rights respected, and livelihoods supported. The ASD framework for action includes transparency and monitoring, supply and market transformation, and positive impact. ASD monitors plantations, mills, refineries, and crushing facilities. “Through ASD, we have more ability to address grievances and correct them,” explained Schubnel. “Alone, we wouldn’t have access to all this information. Join us!”

ASD membership generates a positive impact and members are trusted brands for customers. At the same time, members ensure long-term sustainable supply and improve internal quality control and accountability processes.

Since its formation in 2019, 25 companies have joined ASD including: Beiersdorf, Chanel, Clariant, Clarins, Clorox, Croda, Estée Lauder, Evonik, Gattefossé, Galaxy, GSK, Henkel, Innospec, Johnson & Johnson, L’Occitane, L’Oréal, LVMH, Natura, Nuxe, Orkla, Reckitt, Sasol, Seppic, Solvay, Stearnere Dubois, and Zschimmer & Schwarz.

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Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor.

Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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PROTAMEEN

Supplier of specialty materials!

Tom Balsamides 375 Minnisink Road Totowa NJ Cell 201.207.0570 PROTAMEENTOMB@AOL.COM WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM

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A leading supplier of unique specialty cosmetic ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industry

Review

2022 NYSCC Scholarship and Grant Award Recipients

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2022: The Year in

n December 7th during its Educational Awards Night ceremony, the NYSCC announced the recipients of its expanded scholarships and grants program.

Barnet Products | 201-346-4620 www.barnetproducts.com

Presented that night were:

The Board Choice Scholarship ($7,500), a new award created to inspire student members to reimagine the future of NYSCC was awarded to: • Sandy Enriquez, University of Buffalo Mentee Next Steps Grant, exclusive to NYSCC mentees who need financial support to reach the next milestone in their education and career paths: • Micaela Reyes, CUNY York College • Roanne Reyes, Gattefossé

Upskilling Grant ($5,000) for active members who want to take their credentials or professional development to the next level with special consideration given to unemployed members who need to obtain skills to help them get back to work: • Dario Gimenez, Grant Industries • Linda Rivera, Henkel Corporation Future of Sustainability Scholarship ($5,000) encourages undergraduate and graduate students to

start thinking about how the industry can address major sustainability challenges: • Jacob Sessions, Rutgers University • Julie Liu, St. John's University • Maria Jolina Lou, Rutgers University

Roumelia Alina Inclusion & Diversity Scholarship

($5,000) awarded to undergraduate or graduate students who exemplify hard work, perseverance, compassion, and collaboration in the advancement of Inclusion and Diversity initiatives: • Kendra Cutcher, Rutgers University • Danielle Campbell, The University of Toledo • Dylan Tan, Rutgers Graduate School of Studies • Tanashia Pennix, Leuphana University • Ryann Kneser, The University of Cincinnati • Cynthia Santos, Rutgers University • Maria Mo, Rutgers University • Princess-Ann George-Ezuma, Fairleigh Dickinson University • Alanna Turco, Rutgers University • Alicia Blake, Rutgers University • Melia Rucker, Rutgers University • Sophia Olson, Manhattan College • Jada Alcantara, University of Toledo • Precious Ulel, University of California • Mary Atokwu-Isama, Rutgers University 18

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2022: The Year in

Review

General Education Scholarship ($2,500) is a one-time award for undergraduate and graduate students who wish to pursue a career in cosmetic science: • Tracy Hervies, University of Toledo • Rachel Whiteman, Rutgers University • Leila Sorrells, Columbia University • Ashley Reid, Fairleigh Dickinson University • Rachael Hill, University of Toledo • Bushra Tahhan, Fairleigh Dickinson University • Anna Gerken, University of Toledo • Lucciana Heredia, Rutgers University • Le Anh Thu Nguyen, Rutgers University • Ava Perkins, University of Toledo Grant for Educational Institutions awarded to organizations promoting enrichment and advancement of cosmetic science: • Fairleigh Dickinson University

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Cosmetic Comics

he Future Cosmetic Chemists Team shows that in addition to putting together a great educational event they can also have fun.

Shown in the photograph (from left to right), which was taken at John Carola’s 40th birthday party, are: Christian Merkovsky (Princess bride), Alex Brielmaier (Bob Ross), John Carola (Freddy Mercury), Susanna Fernandes (Madonna), Tania Viana (typical 80’s girl), and Thomas Drweiga (Macho Man).

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Discover sustainable, plant-based solutions for skin, hair, shower, and color cosmetics.

go.ingredion.com/beauty go.ingredion.com/beauty

Review

2022 NYSCC Board & Committees 2022: The Year in

Executive Board

Chair

Giorgio Dell’Acqua Nutrafol

Treasurer-Elect

Alex Blakeman

Superior Materials

Chair-Elect

Stacey House

Mohamed Abdulla

Coty LATAM

IFF Health & Biosciences

Secretary

Luciana Coutinho Luluble

Executive Committee

By-Laws

Amy Marshall Eckart

Treasurer

Program Chair

Cathy Piterski

Essential Ingredients

Advisor

Susanna Fernandes TRI-K

House Chair

Lexi Piterski June Jacobs

Cosmetiscope Editor

Roger L. McMullen Ashland Inc.

At Home Live Series

Giorgino Macalino

Estée Lauder Companies

Board Appointments Communications

Diversity and Inclusion

Edgewell Personal Care

Desiree Reid & Co.

Maria Sousa

Desiree Reid

Alex Bliziotis Mario Badescu

Cosmetiscope Advertising

Employment

EventBrite Manager

Ashland Inc.

Edgewell Personal Care

Fairleigh Dickinson University

Future Chemist Workshop

Mentorship Program

Registration

Katonah Chemical

L’Oréal USA

Raymond B. Clark

John Carola

James Grant

Ava Atri

Mary Fendelander

Thomas Drwiega

Christina Phillips Gattefossé

Chanel

Special Events

Historian

Scientific Committee

Diffusion LLC

Ashland Inc.

Johanna Gigliotti

Steve Herman

Scholarship

Social Media Chair

Edgewell Personal Care

Edgewell Personal Care

Tania Viana

Alex Brielmaier

Christian Merkovsky

Susanna Fernandez

Deveraux Specialties

Toussaint Jordan

Hani Fares

Maria Sousa

Suppliers’ Day

Jane McDermott

Future Chemists Workshop Team

Grant Industries Omya/Formulae

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Thomas Drweiga

Bayport Labs Tri-K

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FDU

John Carola

Katonah Chemical

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2022: The Year in

Review

Scientific Committee

Hani Fares

Mike Anthonavage

Ashland Inc.

Yun Shao

Ben Blinder

CRL

Gattefossé USA

Mythili Nori

Catherine Chiou

BASF Corporation

Kobo Products

Amber Evans

L’Oréal USA

Marc Cornell

Roger L. McMullen

Morrocanoil

Fairleigh Dickinson University

Mar-Key Consulting

Sue Feng

Giorgio Dell’Acqua

Stacey House

Luciana Coutinho

Susanna Fernandes

Giorgino Macalino

E.T. Brown

Nutrafol

Luluble

Coty LATAM

TRI-K

Social Media Team Team

Revathi Nair

Jiayi (Joy) Yuan

Symrise AG

Xylia Ajose

Jarchem

Samyukta Pingali

FDA

Chanel Person

Estée Lauder

Lanesa Mahon

University of Cincinnati

Ashley Garcia

Nohbo Inc.

The John Hopkins University

Minaris Regenerative Medicine

Shivangi Manivannan

Nicole Lund

Mary Uche Atokwu-Isama

Rutgers University

Leila Sorrells TRI Princeton

January Event

Howard Epstein EMD Electronics April Event

Desiree Reid

Desiree Reid & Co.

Estée Lauder

Dejour Waite

Peter Thomas Roth

Event Chairs February Event

Rutgers University

Sophia Olson

Manhattan College

March Event

Hani Fares

Giorgio Dell’Acqua

Awards Night 2022

Sensory Boat Trip

Ashland Inc.

Giorgino Macalino

Estée Lauder Companies

Nutrafol

Johanna Gigliotti Deveraux Specialties

Alex Bliziotis Mario Badescu June Event

Roger L. McMullen

Golf Outing

Fishing Trip

Ashland Inc.

James Francisco

Jeen International Corp.

Hani Fares

September Event

Culinary Event

October Event

EMD Electronics

Deveraux Specialties LLC

Gattefossé

November Event

NYSCC Supports Education Event

Howard Epstein

Mythili Nori BASF

Johanna Gigliotti

Ashland Inc.

Ben Blinder

Stacey House Coty LATAM

Giorgio Dell’Acqua Nutrafol

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Thank You to Our Sponsors

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