Cosmetiscope September 2022

September 2022 • Vol. 28 • Issue 7

“The IFSCC Henry Maso Award for Young Scientists” and the Distinguished Individual after Whom this Award was Named …Paul Thau

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uring his career in the cosmetic industry, Henry Maso made many contributions to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) and International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC).

I knew Henry from 1955 until the time he died in 2009. He was one of my early mentors. We maintained a close personal and friendship relationship over the years.

Henry received his B.S. degree in Chemistry from the College of the City of New York in June 1940. From 1941 to 1944, he was an analytical chemist at the Philadelphia Navy Yard Laboratory. From 1945 to 1957, he was employed in the Pharmaceutical Research Laboratory at Johnson & Johnson. In 1957, He joined Amerchol Corp. as Director of Technical Services. In 1970, he became Vice-President, then in 1980 Senior Vice-President, at Amerchol Corp. He travelled extensively throughout the world, particularly in Western Europe and the Far East, lecturing on the technology needed to manufacture ingredients required in cosmetics and personal care products.

Henry retired in 1986 and formed H.F. Maso Associates making himself available as a cosmetic industry consultant. He served with the International Executive Service Corps—a U.S. nonprofit organization that fosters private sector development in the economically developing world—as a volunteer in Thailand and Panama. In 1982, he was one of the first cosmetic chemists to enter Mainland China.

He returned to China at the invitation of the government in 1986 and 1992 to continue lecturing.

Henry Maso had been an active participant in the SCC since 1957. He served as Chairman of the New York Chapter in 1953 and as President of the national SCC organization in 1967. In 1971, he received the SCC’s highest award, the Maison G. de Navarre Medal Award. In October 1978, he was elected to the Praesidium of the IFSCC, and in 1983 was elected IFSCC President. He lectured on cosmetic ingredients for the SCC and had also organized courses in cosmetic technology for the Center for Professional Advancement.

He was the recipient of numerous industry awards recognizing his 53 years of contributions.

In later years, Henry consulted for several major cosmetic firms and provided training and mentoring to many of their young employees. It is only fitting that he is honored by an award with his namesake that is given to young scientists. See page 22 for updated information about the award.

I still cherish the numerous IFSCC meetings that I attended with Henry over the years. ____________________________________________________________

About the Author

Paul Thau was employed at Cosmair/L’Oréal USA for over 22 years, during which time he served as Assistant Vice-President of Cosmetic R&D and then as Senior Research Fellow. His cosmetic industry experience spans more than fifty years and includes R&D positions at Revlon, Bristol-Myers, CIBA Pharmaceutical, and Warner-Lambert.

Paul has served the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in many capacities including Chairman of the New York Chapter in 1971 and President of National in 1988. Later he was a member of the IFSCC Presidium and Scientific Committee. Paul is a Fellow of the SCC and holds fifteen U. S. patents. He was presented with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Maison de Navarre Award in 2005.

From 1999 until 2014, Paul ran a cosmetic consulting company, PaCar Tech, which specialized in the areas of innovative product development, new cosmetic raw materials, technology transfer, and technology acquisition. Paul may be reached by e-mail (Pathau21@gmail.com) or mobile telephone (908-451-9558).

NYSCC SUNSCREENS AND ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT SEMINAR • SEPTEMBER 8 ...see pages 5-9 for more information.

2022 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE Chair Giorgio Dell’Acqua chair@nyscc.org Chair-Elect Stacey House chair-elect@nyscc.org Treasurer Mohamed Abdulla treasurer@nyscc.org Treasurer-Elect Alex Blakeman treasure-elect@nyscc.org Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc.org Advisor Susanna Fernandes advisor@nyscc.org Program Cathy Piterski program@nyscc.org At Home Live Series Gino Macalino gmacalin@estee.com By-Laws Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com Communications Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org Special Events Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com

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Letter from the Chair

…Giorgio Dell’Acqua

an you believe the leaves will be changing color soon and summer is winding down! We have been very busy at the Chapter hosting social events to educate and engage our members and the beauty and personal care industry.

The June symposium on Natural Ingredients was spectacular, not only for its location but also for the depth of information that was presented.

In a sold-out venue, we discussed the latest trends on naturality, science, and sustainability.

Our annual Golf Outing and first-time Fishing Trip in July and August were fun outdoor soirees and provided plenty of networking and mingling amongst members and their guests.

I am excited about what we have planned for the last four months of this year, starting with leading investigators from the National Academy of Science and top academics discussing the latest findings on “Sunscreens and Environmental Impact” on September 8th. This dinner program will take place at Pleasantdale Château in West Orange, New Jersey. Building upon this topic will be an At Home Live webinar on September 15th focusing on “Developing Eco-Conscious Sunscreens.”

September ends with our culinary event at Natirar that includes a guest speaker and a friendly cooking competition. Don’t delay in getting tickets to this chapter favorite that is sure to sell-out.

More learning is on tap for October and November with the all-day “Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity, Social Progress, Circularity,” program at the legendary Boathouse in Central Park, and the dinner program on “Scalp and Skin Microbiome” at Nanina's in the Park in Belleville, NJ. Continuing our focus on sustainability and science, the year’s last two At Home Live programs will cover “Strategy for the Future of a Sustainable Personal Care Industry,” and “Sustainable Packaging and Componentry.”

Supporting “sister” chapters and promoting the NYSCC and Suppliers’ Day is paramount to our success, and we will be busy doing just that over the next few months. You will see both board representatives and members of the Suppliers’ Day Team participating as exhibitors at the SWSCC Suppliers’ Day in Irving, Texas; IFSCC Congress in London; SCC Carolina Chapter’s Naturally Kiawah Symposium in South Carolina; and National’s Scientific Meeting and Showcase Symposium in Los Angeles.

We will also have a booth at Beauty Accelerate on September 28th-29th in New York and will be showcasing the finalists of the CEW Supplier’s Beauty Creators Award at their Beauty Bazaar on September 15th (also in New York) and celebrating the winner who will be announced at the CEW Beauty Creators Awards Luncheon on November 11th.

Mark your calendar for NYSCC Supports Education Night on December 7th at the Edison Ballroom in New York City. A record number of applications were received this year, and we can’t wait to honor and recognize the students, members, and educational institutions who will receive our scholarships and grants.

Finally, we will be voting soon for our 2023 executive board members, so please be on the lookout for the ballot and cast your vote.

I look forward to seeing you in our “event-full” fall!

Scientifically yours,

Cosmetiscope Editor Roger Mcmullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu Cosmetiscope Advertising Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com Social Media Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org 2

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MMP’s innovative actives and functional ingredients

Age Defying Hydration

Sun Care

Skin Beauty Green Cosmetics

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NYSCC Sunscreens and Environmental Impact Seminar

September 8, 2022 • 3:00 – 8:45 p.m.

Pleasantdale Château

ealthy coral reefs are among the most valuable ecosystems on Earth. They provide billions of dollars in economic and environmental benefits, including food, coastal protection, and tourism.

Our coral systems are under threat from climate change, unsustainable fishing, land-based pollution, coastal development, and disease. Unfortunately, some of the ingredients contained in personal health care and sunscreen products have been found to also threaten coral reef ecosystems. How these and other compounds affect reef ecosystems is an active area of research. Investigators at the National Academy of Sciences are currently reviewing studies that will help to predict the environmental impact of sunscreens on coral reef systems and other aquatic life. The most recent round of studies was completed, and the September 8th NYSCC seminar will be the first opportunity to learn what the findings are.

The aim of this seminar is: 1. Understand the study protocols used to evaluate sunscreens with respect to the corals and other marine life in the aquatic environment.

2. Can a “reef safe” claim be made using the current test protocols?

3. Be informed of other ingredients that may have a negative impact on corals and alternative ingredients that may be more suitable with respect to coral safety and other marine life.

4. How far from the beach can the residue from “reef-unsafe” ingredients reach waterways and into the ocean?

5. Coral reefs are one of the most beautiful, colorful, and biodiverse ecosystems on the planet, but they are also one of the most fragile. On the other hand, ultraviolet radiation is known to be associated with skin cancer, how can we protect aquatic life and our skin?

Proudly sponsored by:

Agenda:

3:00 – 3:10 p.m.

Welcome and Announcements

3:10 – 3:40 p.m.

Dietram A. Scheufele, Ph.D. – University of Wisconsin-Madison

3:40 – 4:10 p.m.

Charles A. Menzie, Ph.D. – National Academies Committee on Sunscreens Environmental Impact

4:10 – 5:10 p.m.

Cocktail Hour

5:10 – 5:40 p.m.

Carys Mitchelmore, Ph.D. – University of Maryland

5:40 – 6:10 p.m.

Michael Connelly, Ph.D. – Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute

6:10 – 7:30 p.m.

Dinner

7:30 – 8:00 p.m.

Nicole Crane, Ph.D. – Cabrillo College and One People One Reef

8:00 – 8:15 p.m.

Break

8:15 – 8:45 p.m.

Q&A – Concluding Remarks

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Sunscreens and Environmental Impact Seminar

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n Registration

For more information or to register for this event, please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

n Location

BEAUTY

begins here.

Safe, sustainable, bio-based ingredients for personal care.

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Pleasantdale Château, 757 Eagle Rock Ave., West Orange, N.J. 07052 ___________________________________________________________________________

Seminar Chair – Howard Epstein, Ph.D.

oward Epstein is Director of Technical Services for EMD Performance Materials Corporation, Philadelphia, PA, an affiliate of Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany. He was a scholar in residence at the University of Cincinnati department of dermatology and received his Ph.D. in Pharmacognasy from the Union Institute and University in Cincinnati, Ohio. He has been in the cosmetics industry for many years, beginning his career formulating cosmetics for Estée Lauder, Maybelline, Max Factor, Bausch & Lomb, and Kao Brands. In addition to his interest in botanicals, Howard previously served as editor of the Journal of Cosmetic Science and is a member of the International Academy of Dermatology.

He is on the editorial board of the dermatological journals Clinics in Dermatology and SKINmed, representing the cosmetic industry in the dermatological arena. Howard has authored chapters in various cosmetic technology textbooks including several chapters in Harry’s Cosmeticology, and holds eight patents and two patent applications. ___________________________________________________________________________

Speaker Abstracts and Biographies

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Communicating Science in a Post-Covid World Dietram A. Scheufele

he COVID-19 pandemic has led many of us to return to outdated deficit thinking when it comes to publicly communicate science. If we can just restore trust or combat misinformation, many have argued, people will once again engage in behaviors that are in line with the best available science.

Unfortunately, the latest social science tells a very different story. Algorithmically-curated online information environments capitalize on human psychology and on a wealth of consumer data that exist about each one of us, and they tailor information that is tailored to what we already believe, rather than challenge potential misperceptions. So, what does this mean for effective communication about sunscreen use or other attitudes or behaviors in line with the best available science? How can we meaningfully connect with audiences about emerging and sometimes contested science? And how can we balance the tensions between having to get public buy-in to urgent public health challenges, while maintaining long-term trust in science as our best way of producing knowledge?

n Dietram A. Scheufele, Ph.D.

Dietram A. Scheufele is the Taylor-Bascom Chair in Science Communication and Vilas Distinguished Achievement Professor at the University of WisconsinMadison and in the Morgridge Institute for Research, and a Distinguished Research Fellow at the University of Pennsylvania’s Annenberg Public Policy Center. He is one of the most widely cited experts in the fields of political communication, science communication, and science and technology policy. His current research examines how algorithmically curated information environments fundamentally reshape how we all make sense of the world around us. His most recent publications have included work on mis- and disinformation, open science, and the societal impacts of emerging technologies like AI and CRISPR. Scheufele is an elected member of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, the German National Academy of Science and Engineering, and the Wisconsin Academy of Sciences, Arts and Letters. Scheufele is also an elected fellow of the American Association for the Advancement of Science and the International Communication Association, and a lifetime associate of the U.S. National Research Council. He is a recipient of the Chancellor’s Distinguished 6

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Teaching Award at UW, the Cornell University College of Agriculture and Life Sciences Young Faculty Teaching Award, and the University of Wisconsin-Madison College of Agricultural and Life Sciences Spitzer Excellence in Teaching Award. ___________________________________________________________________________

Environmental Impact of Currently Marketed Sunscreens and Potential Human Impacts of Changes in Sunscreen Usage

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Supplier of specialty materials!

Charles Menzie

oncerns have been raised about the potential toxicity of sunscreens to a variety of marine and freshwater aquatic organisms, particularly corals. At the same time, there are concerns that people will use less sunscreen as a result of environmental concerns. An ad hoc committee of the National Academies of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine reviewed the state of the science on the use of the active ingredients in sunscreens (UV filters) currently marketed in the United States. This review was conducted to provide information useful for future application in ecological risk assessments, by reviewing information on UV filter fates, exposure, and effects. The report also includes a review of the potential human impacts that could result from changes in availability of certain UV filters for use in sunscreens, in order to inform management of both human and ecosystem health. This presentation will describe the committee’s findings, conclusions, and recommendations related to this issue, as well as the priority knowledge gaps to fill, to inform higher tiered risk assessments. The presentation will include a discussion of the intersection of aquatic chemistry, ecotoxicology, ecology, and epidemiology to understand the potential for risks from UV filters and implications to human health for changes in sunscreen use.

n Charles A. Menzie, Ph.D.

Charles A. Menzie is Chair of the National Academies Committee on Environmental Impact of Currently Marketed Sunscreens and Potential Human Impacts of Changes in Sunscreen Usage. Dr. Menzie is a Principal and former Practice Director at Exponent, Inc. He also served as Global Executive Director for the Society of Environmental Toxicology and Chemistry (SETAC) from 2014 to 2020. He specializes in the application of ecological and human health risk assessment and causal analysis methods for evaluating the potential for effects and for diagnosing the causes of environmental harms and damages. His technical expertise includes the evaluation of the environmental fate and effects of physical, biological, and chemical stressors on terrestrial and aquatic systems. He has applied his expertise to situations involving nutrient enrichment, chemical contamination, use of pesticides and other chemical products, oil and gas operations, fossil fuel and nuclear power plants, alternative energy projects, mining, invasive species, water management, and vulnerability assessments for climate change. As part of his risk assessment practice, he has developed exposure and food web models to evaluate how people and ecological receptors may be exposed to a variety of chemicals. These include several spatially explicit models used to refine exposure estimates. He previously served on the National Academies Committee on the Bioavailability of Contaminants in Soils and Sediments. Dr. Menzie has a B.S. in Biology from Manhattan College and an M.A. and Ph.D. in Biology from City University of New York. ___________________________________________________________________________

Detection, Toxicity, and Environmental Risk of Organic UV Filters in Corals

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Carys Mitchelmore

V filters are a diverse group of contaminants of emerging concern (CECs) contained in a number of consumer products, with differing physical and chemical characteristics that determine their occurrence, fate, and effects in the aquatic environment. Organic UV filters have been detected in wastewater, freshwater, and marine environments in multiple matrices, such as, the aqueous phase, biosolids, sediment, and biota. Their ubiquitous presence has led to concerns on their risk to resident organisms. The impact of organic UV filters to corals has received significant media and policy attention although data on their presence in coral reef environments and their toxicity to corals (continued on Page 8)

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PROTAMEEN

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Tom Balsamides 375 Minnisink Road Totowa NJ Cell 201.207.0570 PROTAMEENTOMB@AOL.COM WWW.PROTAMEEN.COM

Sunscreens and Environmental Impact Seminar

(continued from Page 7)

is limited. This presentation will summarize the state of the science on data relevant to the environmental risk of UV filters to coral reefs. This will include some of our recent research on their presence in seawater, sediment, and coral tissues, and acute and chronic toxicity of some UV filters to corals using methods based on standard toxicity test protocols. This research provides additional insight about the environmentally relevant concentrations of organic UV filters at beaches and coral reefs, including spatial and temporal assessments useful for modelling efforts, and provides exposure data for future environmental risk assessments of UV-filters on coral reefs. It also provides and compares toxicity thresholds in coral species with standard toxicity test species and highlights some of the complexities and challenges of working with coral species and UV filters. w w w.validatedcs.com 400 Frank W. Burr Blvd. Suite 105 Glenpointe Atrium Teaneck, NJ 07666

n Carys Mitchelmore, Ph.D.

Carys has over 25 years of experience as a researcher and educator in Environmental Health and Toxicology. Her research has spanned both fundamental and applied questions concerning the fate and effects of pollutants, including crude oil, chemical oil spill dispersants, UV filters (sunscreens and other products), flame retardants, coal ash, endocrine disruptors, disinfection byproducts, metals, pesticides, bacteria, and various contaminant mixtures. Species of study have included standard EPA test organisms and various fish species, oysters, mussels, blue crabs, algae, turtles, and corals. She specifically has focused on routes of exposure (dissolved/particulate), identifying sites of toxic action, metabolic pathways, and sub-lethal responses, particularly those related to oxidative stress, antioxidant responses, DNA damage, and carcinogenesis. She also investigated the efficacy and effects of various ballast water treatments, including shipboard trials of filtration, UV, chlorination, sodium hydroxide, ozone, bromine, and various biocides. She has served on various committees and advisory groups as an environmental toxicologist, including National Academy panels and various advisory groups for the Deepwater Horizon NRDA effort, and has given House and Senate testimonies at both the Federal and State level. She has prepared reports and served as an expert witness in numerous court cases with respect to aquatic toxicity concerns. She has also served as a peer reviewer for many ecological hazard assessment and regulatory documents. ___________________________________________________________________________

The Importance of Coral Reef Ecosystems and the Need to Protect and Conserve Coral Biodiversity in the Face of Climate Change

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Michael Connelly

his presentation will provide an overview of the importance of coral reef ecosystems and the need to protect and conserve coral biodiversity in the face of climate change. The impacts of local stressors on coral reefs and the main chemical pollutants of concern to coral health will be discussed considering the best available scientific evidence, with some suggestions for future research.

The presentation will conclude with a brief description of the Smithsonian Institution’s current efforts to conserve coral reefs, and the various ways the private sector and general public can get involved in marine stewardship.

n Michael Connelly, Ph.D.

Michael is a Biodiversity Genomics Postdoctoral Fellow at the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute. He is interested in how engaging in microbial symbiosis affects the traits, ecology, and evolution of marine invertebrates. His research focuses on the widespread and resilient coral genus Pocillopora, which are the dominant reef-building corals in Panama and throughout the tropical eastern Pacific. ___________________________________________________________________________

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One People One Reef: The Value Coral Reefs Bring to People

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Nicole Crane

oral reefs are in steep decline worldwide due to multiple factors, including warming temperatures, ocean acidification, local and large-scale pollution, and overfishing. Yet there are coral ‘bright spots’ and evidence of resilient ecosystems and healthy reefs. People’s activities at a local level are an often overlooked but critical element of coral reef protection. Indigenous people protect their habitats through their stewardship activities, and visitors to reefs can also help protect them through enhanced awareness, and reef-safe actions such as reducing chemical and physical impacts.

Awareness of UV impacts on skin has led to a dramatic increase in sunscreen use, many of which can have detrimental impacts on sensitive ecosystems such as coral reefs. Some formulations of sunscreen contain compounds that can disrupt coral reproduction and growth. These chemical stressors are compounded by other stressors, creating conditions that can lead to coral reef decline, which puts coraldependent fish populations at risk. Ultimately this affects people who depend on coastal fishing, tourism, and other ecosystem services. Some stressors are beyond our immediate control to mitigate, but others can be addressed through the actions of consumers and product developers. Sunscreens are such a product, and through an enhanced awareness of their impacts, and reef-safe options, we can reduce that stressor. Nicole Crane will talk about coral reefs, some of the stressors, including sunscreens, and the value coral reefs bring to people, including the indigenous outer islanders of Micronesia with whom she and her teams work through their non-profit One People One Reef.

n Nicole Crane, Ph.D.

Nicole Crane is Professor in the Department of Biology at Cabrillo College in Aptos California and Associate at the California Academy of Sciences. She is skilled in Nonprofit Organizations, Environmental Education, Conservation Issues, Proposal Writing, and Fundraising. She has experience in coral reef conservation, working with indigenous communities, marine and coastal management planning, disaster mitigation, curriculum design and delivery (college teaching), and field program development and implementation. As Executive Director for One People One Reef, Nicole leads a collaboration between Micronesian coastal communities and scientists who develop inclusive, adaptive, and sustainable conservation solutions to protect the health and resilience of critical coral reef marine habitats and the people who rely on them for food security. The revolutionary approach of One People One Reef to adaptive marine conservation supports community leadership and traditional ecological knowledge and management systems with modern science. One People One Reef envisions resilient reefs and healthy communities for current and future generations.

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Named Top Gold 100 Trade Show

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YSCC Suppliers’ Day has been named a Top 100 Trade Show of 2021.

Facilitated by Trade Show Executive (TSE) Magazine, the prestigious Gold 100 Awards recognizes and honors the top U.S. trade shows in an array of business and industry sectors and across the country. The rankings of where each show placed on this coveted list will be revealed at TSE’s Gold 100 Awards and Summit next month.

“The accomplishments of the Gold 100 show organizers were a major feat during the ups and downs of the pandemic,” said TSE Publisher and Editor-inChief Gabrielle Weiss. “Many challenges and new protocols were put before them, and they prevailed. All of us at TSE are excited for them and proud to honor them.”

The 100 trade shows, which took place in the U.S. in 2021, were ranked by net square feet (NSF) of paid exhibit space. A collective total of NSF for all 100 shows ranked equaled 19,148,888 NSF, with an average of 191,489 NSF. Total attendance reported for the 2021 Gold 100 winners was 1,297,884.

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SILAB creates and manufactures unique, consistently safe, natural active ingredients with proven efficacy.

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NYSCC At Home Live Series

Developing Eco-Conscious Sunscreens

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September 15, 2022

nvironmental concerns are becoming top-of-mind for UV protection formulators. As such, they are always looking for new tools to help develop eco-conscious sunscreens. Formulators are using various tools to help evaluate the environmental impact profile of formulations. Learn about one of the latest tools available for sunscreen formulators.

Without a doubt, the importance of regular sun protection is top of mind to all consumers. The Skin Cancer Foundation through their Destination Healthy Skin Program has been a true evangelist with a mobile skin cancer screening clinic, which provides free skin cancer educational materials and screenings throughout the country. Since its inception, the program has identified more than 10,000 potential skin cancers and precancers, including 450 suspected melanomas.

Join us to learn of the latest in formulations and innovations that provide healthy sun protection.

n Registration

Proudly sponsored by:

For more information or to register for this event, please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

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Featured Speaker – Luciana Uttembergue D’Elia

uciana Uttembergue D’Elia, a Brazilian national, holds an Executive MBA, a degree in Chemistry and Cosmetics Technology, and a degree in Pharmacy and Biochemistry. She has 15 years of experience in the cosmetics industry in both Latin America and in the US. She has been with DSM for 10 years and is currently the Senior Technical & Marketing Manager responsible for Personal Care NA.

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NYSCC Culinary Event Shaping tomorrow’s beauty through innovation and formulation expertise Explore what’s next with IMCD experts at imcdus.com.

September 29, 2022

Natirar, Peapack-Gladstone, NJ

Event Organizer: Johanna Gigliotti (johanna.e.gigliotti@gmail.com)

n Event Schedule

n Ticket Prices

4:00 – 4:30 p.m.

Registration

NYSCC Members – $175

4:30 – 5:00 p.m.

Speaker – Tea for Potion or Pleasure

Non-Members – $225

5:00 – 5:30 p.m.

Cocktail Hour

Students/Unemployed – $150

5:30 – 6:30 p.m.

Cooking and Competition

Emeritus – $150

7:00 – 8:30 p.m.

Dinner and Networking

n Registration

Proudly sponsored by:

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For more information or to register for this event, please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

The NYSCC History Project

n September 29, 1954, an organizational meeting was held to establish the New York Chapter of the SCC. The by-laws were adopted on October 27th and submitted to the Society. The New York Chapter was officially accepted by the Society at the board meeting on March 3, 1955. Michael A. Stanton became the first Chapter Chair. Everything that has ever happened in our Chapter, from extraordinary educational events, fun social activities, and the world class Suppliers Day, started with the efforts of those long-ago visionaries.

It is a challenge to reconstruct all that history, back to a time without Google, an NYSCC website, or PDF files of the Cosmetiscope. As we head to our 70th anniversary in 2025, not that far off, it is a fitting time to begin assembling all the history and memories residing with our members. Details on the early years of Suppliers’ Day, and almost any information before 1985, are particularly welcome, but of course anything up to the present time is a valued part of our collective history.

Please send any material that you would like to include as part of our NYSCC History Project to Steve Herman (steveh50@optonline.net), the Chapter Historian, so that it may be much appreciated, shared, and preserved for our future members.

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Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity, Social Progress, Circularity October 12, 2022 • 10:30 a.m. – 6:30 p.m.

Agenda:

Central Park Boathouse, New York, NY

10:30 – 11:15 a.m.

Arrival and Registration

11:15 – 11:30 a.m.

Opening Comments

11:30 a.m. – Noon

Circularity 101 and reshaping consumer expectations – Sandra Goldmark (Barnard College – Columbia University)

Noon – 12:30 p.m.

Sustainability Trends – Yarden Horwitz (Spate)

12:30 – 1:00 p.m.

Sustainable Biotech Solutions – Jasmina Aganovic (Arcaea)

1:00 – 2:00 p.m.

Lunch

2:00 – 2:30 p.m.

Connecting Formulators and Suppliers with Sustainable Offerings – Kimberly Shenk (Novi)

2:30 – 3:15 p.m.

Sustainable Packaging: Refillable, Recyclable – Adrian Apodaca (HCT)

3:15 – 3:30 p.m.

Circularity Roundtable Q&A

3:30 – 3:45 p.m.

Break

3:45 – 4:15 p.m.

Green Chemistry, the Green Score, Waterless Formulations, and More – Shaun Barker (Estée Lauder)

4:15 – 4:45 p.m.

Certification Program – Monica Becker (Cradle to Cradle)

4:45 – 5:15 p.m.

Action on Sustainable Derivatives (ASD): What’s next after RSPO? – Laurent Schubnel (Gattefossé)

5:15 – 5:30 p.m.

Roundtable Event Q&A

5:30 – 6:30 p.m.

Social Hour

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n Registration

For more information or to register for this event, please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

n Location

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Central Park Boathouse, New York, NY ___________________________________________________________________________

Symposium Co-Chair – Stacey House

tacey House is the Global Head of Innovation for KDC-One’s Beauty and Personal Care Division responsible for driving industry leading product development and innovation for the organization. She started her career on the brand side at Revlon and Coty, supporting all facets within R&D over a combined 14-year period. She then moved into the supplier side of the cosmetic industry as the Director of Applications for Kobo Products managing labs in the USA, Brazil, and France. During this time, she was involved in ingredient development of sunscreen technologies, surface treatments and dispersions to optimize pigments in support of diversity and inclusivity, and on natural platforms. Afterwards, she joined MANA Products as the Director of R&D prior to joining KDC/One. Stacey graduated from Northeastern University’s D’Amore-McKim School of Business with MBAs in International Business, Operations, and Supply Chain Management. She received her Bachelor of Science degree at Rutgers University-New Brunswick with a focus on Microbiology in Cosmetics. Recently she completed the Harvard Business School Design Thinking and Innovation Certificate program. Stacey is an active member of the SCC, Cosmetic Executive Women, and NYSCC Scientific Committee. She is the NYSCC’s 2022 Chair-Elect.

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Symposium Co-Chair – Ben Blinder

en Blinder is the Executive Director, Business Operations at Gattefossé USA, with P&L responsibility leading Gattefossé's two business units in the personal care and pharmaceutical industries in the U.S. and Mexico. After receiving a Bachelor of Science degree in Chemical Engineering at Lehigh University (Bethlehem, PA), he began his career in technical sales, moved to strategic marketing and then to executive management, all with multinational organizations in the personal care industry. Ben has been heavily involved in strategic and corporate long-range planning, business development, direct relationship management of supplier/distributor networks, and active in the search for new technologies and new business partners. After 35 years exclusively in the personal care industry, he was promoted to his current position in 2021 where his responsibilities now include strategic leadership of the pharmaceutical business unit. Ben is a member of the SCC, serving on the NYSCC Scientific Committee, and is also a member of AAPS. In addition, he is a founding member of the Advisory Committee on Diversity at Gattefossé in North America, an employee group dedicated to promoting the ideals and values of diversity in the workplace. ___________________________________________________________________________

Speaker Biographies

n Sandra Goldmark

Sandra Goldmark is a designer, teacher, and entrepreneur whose work focuses on circular and regenerative climate change solutions. She is an Associate Professor of Professional Practice and Director of Sustainability at Barnard College. She founded and operated Fixup, a social enterprise that operated short term repair shops and reuse events to help build healthy, sustainable modes of consumption for the circular economy. Originally a theatrical set designer, Sandra is a co-creator of the Sustainable Production Toolkit, a resource for climate action in the performing arts, and is the author of Fixation: How to Have Stuff without Breaking the Planet.

Her work has been featured in The New York Times, Wall Street Journal, BBC, WNYC, GreenBiz 350, Salon.com, and Sunday Times of London.

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Kamini Barot Sales Director - Americas kbarot@orchidia.com (732) 353-9706 www.orchidia.com

Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity,...

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n Yarden Horwitz

Yarden Horwitz is the Co-Founder of Spate, the artificial intelligence trends platform for beauty. Prior to Spate, Yarden co-founded and led the Trendspotting division at Google, where she launched renowned reports such as The Google Fashion Trends Report and The Google Skin Care Trends Report. Her work at Google included spotting top trends such as Turmeric, Cold Brew, and Face Masks.

Yarden was named the Future Voice of Fashion by The Business of Fashion, based on her work in leveraging data science for consumer trends prediction.

n Jasmina Aganovic

Jasmina is a cosmetics industry professional who drives innovation in beauty.

As the CEO of Arcaea, she leverages the power of expressive biology to create a new wave of beauty products that provide consumers with innovative and sustainably sourced ingredients. Prior to launching Arcaea, she was an Entrepreneurin-Residence at Gingko Bioworks and the President of Mother Dirt, a skin microbiome brand that developed the first live probiotic and biome friendly products for the skin. Jasmina has a degree in Chemical and Biological Engineering from MIT.

n Kimberly Shenk

Kimberly Shenk is co-founder and CEO of Novi, which helps brands build sustainable products through a data-rich network of suppliers, manufacturers, and retailers. Novi allows brands to easily formulate, discover, sample, and purchase innovative ingredients and sustainable packaging as they build new products.

Founded by Kimberly Shenk, an Air Force captain veteran and the former Head of Data Science at Eventbrite, Novi is backed by Tiger Global, Greylock Partners, and Defy.vc. For more information on Novi, visit www.noviconnect.com.

n Adrian Apodaca

Adrian Apodaca is the Global Director of Engineering at HCT Group. Originally from Denver, Colorado, Adrian graduated from the University of Oklahoma with a Bachelor’s degree in Mechanical Engineering. With over 12 years of engineering experience in the cosmetics industry, Adrian made a name for himself by heading the technical development for key HCT clients on the West Coast. Now in charge of worldwide engineering operations, he leads the global engineering team with supplying key innovation and industrialization solutions for client needs. With an eye for detail and great technical creativity, Adrian and his team are prepared to take HCT to ever higher accomplishments in the beauty industry.

n Shaun Barker

Shaun Barker is an Associate Research Fellow in Green Chemistry and Sustainability at the Estée Lauder Companies (ELC). Previously, he held roles at BASF, Henkel, and L’Oréal where he developed extensive expertise in polymers and surfactants as well as novel sustainable products for hair care applications. Shaun has brought this experience to ELC, where he is responsible for bringing in greener raw materials as well as working with Communications on ELC ingredient glossaries that aid in furthering ingredient and formula transparency. Shaun obtained his B.S. in Chemistry from Hunter College and M.S. in Chemistry from NYU. 14

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n Monica Becker

Monica Becker joined the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute in 2020 as Director of Beauty, Personal Care, and Household Products. She also leads efforts on packaging. A purpose-driven sustainability expert, Monica has worked with beauty and personal care companies, suppliers, and retailers to design and implement collaborative initiatives on sustainable chemistry and circular economy. In the Cradle to Cradle program, she chairs the Cosmetic and Personal Care User Group, which includes L’Oréal, J&J, IFF, GOJO, Beiersdorf, and Lush. She served as Co-director and Director of Collaborative Innovation for the Green Chemistry and Commerce Council where she led industry collaborations on green chemistry innovation with major CPG brands, retailers, and ingredient suppliers on preservatives, silicone alternatives, and plasticizers. Monica has worked for over 30 years in technical and policy-related sustainability positions in the chemical industry, consulting, and research, in a range of industry sectors. She holds a Bachelor’s degree in Paper Science Engineering from SUNY ESF and Master’s degrees in Civil and Environmental Engineering as well as Technology and Policy from MIT.

n Laurent Schubnel

Laurent Schubnel has a Biological Engineering degree from École de Biologie Industrielle in Cergy, France and a Master’s in Business Management from Em Lyon Business School in Lyon, France. He has been working in the Personal Care arena for 22 years now, both on the finished products and raw materials sides of the business. Laurent Schubnel joined Gattefossé in 2001 in the International Technical Support department. He is now the Gattefossé Group CSR Leader.

2022 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org September 8

NYSCC Sunscreens and Environmental Impact Seminar – Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ

September 15

Developing Eco-Conscious Sunscreens – At Home Live – Virtual Event

September 29

NYSCC Culinary Event – Natirar, Peapack-Gladstone, NJ

October 12

Sustainability: Green Chemistry, Upcycling, Biodiversity, Social Progress, Circularity – Central Park Boathouse, New York, NY

October 19

Strategy for the Future of a Sustainable Personal Care Industry – At Home Live – Virtual Event

November 8

Scalp and Skin Microbiome – Novel Approaches to Formulate Gentle and Effective Products – Nanina’s in the Park, Belleville, NJ

December 1

Sustainable Packaging and Componentry – At Home Live – Virtual Event

December 7

NYSCC Supports Education Night 2022 – The Edison Ballroom, Hotel Edison, New York, NY

December 13-14

SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase – L.A. Live JW Marriott, Los Angeles, CA

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NYSCC At Home Live Series

Responsible Beauty Always a better solution.

Barentz is an environmentally conscious personal care ingredients & specialty chemical supplier with sustainability in mind. www.barentz-na.com

Strategy for the Future of a Sustainable Personal Care Industry

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October 19, 2022

atura-Tec’s industrial model is essentially defined as being sustainable. In 2021, Ecovadis awarded Natura-Tec a platinum medal for its sustainable development practices. It has worked for many years to reduce its GHG emissions and improve the lifecycle of its products from an environmental point of view.

The company’s product catalogue itself contains a wide range of ingredients of plant or marine origin that are highly biodegradable, nonpolluting, and from accredited supply chains. Within its technologies, Natura-Tec innovates to improve access to green energies, shorten the supply chain, recycle waste, and produce locally to develop more environmentally friendly and sustainable technologies.

n Registration

For more information or to register for this event, please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

Speaker Biographies

n Pascale Goyat

As marketing manager at Natura-Tec, Pascale Goyat is responsible for driving the action plan to support the company’s international development and to support customers on green and marine technology in conformance with international regulations. She is responsible for developing an integrated strategy that reflects and supports the company objectives, which enables Pascale to help customers grow in a more sustainable way. Pascale has a Master’s degree in Chemistry and graduated in the Cosmetics Program at the University of Nantes located in Nantes, France. Pascale spent ten years working in the makeup industry, where she was promoted to different responsibilities in R&D, quality control, and industrialization at Alkos Cosmétiques (3 years) and Chanel SA (7 years). More recently, Pascale has spent the last fifteen years working in the realm of cosmetic raw materials, where she helps customers meet their product development needs.

n George Rosson

George Rosson is a cosmetic chemist and currently holds the position of Managing Director of Ceratec Sarl, incorporating the Natura-Tec Division. He is based in the South of France, on the French Riviera. His previous experience includes ten years at Zschimmer and Schwarz Group as Director of the Care Specialty Division.

He also held other diverse international roles in the chemical industry starting with a ten-year career at Croda International. In his current role at Ceratec Sarl, he leads the growth strategy, distribution, product development, and team management processes in line with the APG Group’s expansion activities.

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Scalp and Skin Microbiome – Novel Approaches to Formulate Gentle and Effective Products November 8, 2022 • 5:00 – 8:30 p.m.

Nanina’s in the Park, 540 Mill Street, Belleville, NJ

Agenda: 5:00 – 5:50 p.m.

Registration / Social Reception

5:50 – 6:00 p.m.

Introduction

6:00 – 6:25 p.m.

Nicole Townsend – Nutrafol

6:30 – 6:55 p.m.

Allison Garlet – BASF

7:00 – 7:45 p.m.

Dinner Break

7:45 – 8:10 p.m.

Amina Bouslimani, Ph.D. – L’Oréal

8:15 – 8:30 p.m.

Closing Remarks

n Registration

For more information or to register for this event, please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

n Location

Nanina’s in the Park, 540 Mill Street, Belleville, NJ

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A leading supplier of unique specialty cosmetic ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industry

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Scalp and Skin Microbiome

Seminar Chair – Mythili Nori, Ph.D.

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ythili Nori has worked in the personal care industry for over a decade.

Her expertise is in product claim substantiation and data science. In her current role at BASF, she is responsible for Physical Claim Substantiation for Hair and Body Care. Prior to joining BASF, she spent five years at TRI/Princeton as a Senior Research Associate, supporting claim substantiation and fundamental research activities for textile and hair surfaces. She earned a Bachelor’s of Technology in Chemical Engineering from India and received a Master’s of Science in Chemical Engineering at North Carolina Agriculture and Technical State University focusing on purification of drinking water.

Barnet Products | 201-346-4620 www.barnetproducts.com

Speaker Biographies

n Nicole Townsend

Nicole Townsend is currently the Research and Product Innovation Manager for Nutrafol with specific expertise in biochemistry and microbiology. In this role, she has pioneered scalp microbiome solutions through extensive R&D, clinical studies, and product development. Nicole studied Biochemistry at Columbia University with a certified degree by the American Chemical Society, focusing on hair biology and formulation/synthetic chemistry for product applications.

n Allison Garlet

Allison Garlet is a Technical Service Specialist for BASF’s Bioactive Ingredients portfolio and is based out of Tarrytown, New York. She has a B.S. in Biology from Seton Hall University and a M.S. in Microbiology and Molecular Genetics from Rutgers University. She has a technical background with a focus in microbial physiology, biofilms, and skin microbiomics research. She was awarded the SCC’s Young Scientist Award at the 75th Annual Scientific Meeting and Showcase in 2021.

n Amina Bouslimani, Ph.D.

Currently a Senior Scientist at L’Oréal Research & Innovation, Amina establishes external partnerships with academia and industry to accelerate knowledge on the skin microbiome and identify new technologies and actives for compromised skin.

Amina completed her Ph.D. in Biochemistry and Biomedical Sciences at the University of Montpellier in France where she studied the penetration and intratumoral metabolism of chemotherapeutic drugs in clinical samples using imaging mass spectrometry techniques.

Amina completed a postdoctoral fellowship and then worked as a Project Scientist at the University of California San Diego in Professor Pieter Dorrestein’s laboratory. She developed mass spectrometry-based tools to analyze and visualize large-scale metabolomics data and to link skin metabolites to their associated microbes. Her research interests were studying the impact of individual lifestyles on skin metabolites and microbes, identifying molecular signatures associated to skin conditions, and forensic applications to link skin chemical signatures to molecular traces transferred to everyday objects.

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Save Save the the Dates!

Dates!

NYSCC At Home Live Series

Sustainable Packaging and Componentry

Discover sustainable, plant-based solutions for skin, hair, shower, and color cosmetics.

December 1, 2022

go.ingredion.com/beauty go.ingredion.com/beauty

For more information, or to register for this event, please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

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Call for Papers

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor.

Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

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2022 NYSCC Fishing Trip

he NYSCC held its Annual Fishing Trip on Saturday, August 13th. NYSCC members departed from the Atlantic Highlands Marina in New Jersey on the Mi-Jo II fishing boat for an eight-hour trip. It was a beautiful day with great fishing accompanied by an extremely helpful crew. Attendees had a chance to catch fish, relax, enjoy the sun, and catch up with old colleagues and make new acquaintances. Save the date for our next fishing trip, which will be held on August 12, 2023.

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Henry Maso Award for Young Scientists

he Henry Maso Award is presented at IFSCC Congresses in even-numbered years to the Author of the best paper by a young scientist in an issue of the IFSCC Magazine published in the preceding two years (for the 2024 award specifically, published after the IFSCC 2021 Cancun Conference but before the IFSCC 2023 Barcelona Congress).

The author must not be older than 40 years on the date of

IFSCC 2022 Henry Maso Award Winner “The World’s First 3D Bioprinted Immune Skin Model”

Maxime Légues 2022 IFSCC Henry Maso Award Winner

the paper submission. The winner is awarded a trip to the next IFSCC Congress to accept the Award, with the cost of travel, accommodations, and registration fees up to 5000 Swiss Francs being reimbursed by the IFSCC. For the 2024 Henry Maso Award all applicants must: 1. Be a member of an IFSCC-affiliated society.

2. Be no older than 40 years on the date of the paper submission to IFSCC Magazine.

3. Not submit the same paper for the 2024 IFSCC Brazil Congress.

4. Not be the winner of the 2023 Maison G. de Navarre Young Scientist Prize.

The applicant enters the competition by first submitting a full scientific paper in English on cosmetic or cosmetic related disciplines for publication by the IFSCC Magazine (for Authors in Europe or the Americas: editorinchief1@ifscc.org; for Authors in Asia: editorinchief2@ifscc.org), indicating that they wish to be considered for the Henry Maso Award.

After submitting the paper for publication to the Editor, the paper and completed entry form should be sent electronically to the IFSCC Science Chair, copying the Secretary General at secretariat@ifscc.org.

Note that there is no firm deadline for submission. However, it is suggested that papers and entry forms be submitted by April 15, 2023 to allow sufficient time for publication consideration. This deadline is earlier than usual because the IFSCC 2023 Congress in Barcelona starts on September 4, 2023.

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