Cosmetiscope September 2018

SUMMER 2018 • Vol. 24 No. 7

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists

NYSCC Symposium: Extending Your Invisible Umbrella

Table of Contents

September 12, 2018 • 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

Letter from the Chair 2 Upcoming 2018 Events 2

www.nyscc.org

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Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel, Iselin, NJ

un protection claims are no longer just confined to beach products any more. These NYSCC Culinary Event days all types of skin care products make 3 SPF claims with the protection coming from NYSCC Symposium Agenda various types of sun filters such as organic and inorganic ones. At the same time, it has been 4 uncovered that sun damage is not just limited to NYSCC Symposium UV light, but can also be attributed to high Event Location energy visible (HEV) light. This makes it very 4 important to understand the link between skin NYSCC Symposium health and sun exposure. Also, knowing the Registration Information regulatory status of the sun filters and the 4 formulation nuances helps in building an efficient system which “Extends Your Invisible Umbrella”, NYSCC Symposium thus letting you enjoy the sun for a longer period Speaker Abstracts of time. and Biographies This symposium promises to address the 5-9 topics of skin health, HEV protection, formulating NYSCC Sustainable with inorganic sun filters, and the regulatory Cosmetic Science Seminar status of the sunscreen filters. Join us for a full day 10 of expert presentations followed by discussions, Employment Opportunities and of course, some networking opportunites as always.

10 We start the day with an introduction to skin health and exposure to solar radiation by Dr. Laurie Joseph from the Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy at Rutgers University followed by and in-depth look at suncreen NYSCC Skin Barrier regulations

by Dr. Nadim Shaath from Alpha Research and Development. The event continues with Disruption and presentations on formulation challenges by BASF, Croda, DSM, Kobo, and Presperse along with innovations Inflammation Seminar in understanding the effects of blue light on the skin. Also of great importance, Kacie Murdoch of CRL 11 Suncare, will address the concept of ultraviolet protection factor (UPF), which is a relatively new concept NYSCC 2019 Suppliers’ Day used to designate the solar protective properties of textiles. Finally, Dr. Peter Kaplan from Shade ends the 12 day by providing us with an inside look at the state-of-the-art of dosimetry devices that have been developed to monitor exposure to the Sun. (Continued on page 4)

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1 8 N Y S C C C U L I N A R Y E V E September 20 • Midtown Loft & Terrace, NYC

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2018 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Cathy Piterski chair@nyscc.org

CHAIR-ELECT Sonia Dawson chair-elect@nyscc.org

TREASURER Michael Smith Treasurer@nyscc.org

TREASURER-ELECT Stephen Carter treasurer-elect@nyscc.org

SECRETARY Roumelia Alina secretary@nyscc.org

ADVISOR Marie Thadal advisor@nyscc.org

HOUSE Suzanne Dawis house@nyscc.org

MEMBERSHIP Mohamed Abdulla mohamed.abdulla@airliquide.com

PROGRAM Steve Herman steveh50@optonline.net

COMMUNICATIONS Theresa Phamduy webmaster@nyscc.org

SPECIAL EVENTS Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com

COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

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Letter from the Chair

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…Cathy Piterski

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ven though this Summer has not been the sunniest in the Tri-state area, I hope you have been wearing your sunscreen, as we all know UV rays are not blocked by clouds! I cannot believe it is September, and despite it still being the height of vacation time, at the NYSCC we have been busy planning for a very eventful Fall.

As summer fades away we will still be quite engaged with the effects of the sun and skin care at our next full-day educational symposium “Extending Your Invisible Umbrella” on Wednesday, September 12th. This important program will take a deep dive into skin health, HEV protection, formulating with inorganic sun filters, and the regulatory status of sunscreen filters.

A new alliance with MakeUp NY (https://makeup-in-newyork.com/events/conferences/) will allow us to offer technical and educational programming to the contract manufacturing/finished goods market at their event on September 13th. Touching on the hottest trends in ingredients for skin care, color cosmetics, and skin physiology, leaders from NYSCC’s Scientific Advisory Committee will discuss natural ingredients, use of polymers, and innovations combatting digital pollution.

The NYSCC will continue supporting its sister organizations by participating at the SWSCC Suppliers’ Day on September 19th in Irving, TX. If you are out West, please stop by the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day booth and say hello.

In September, the NYSCC has even more fun and interactive events planned including its popular Culinary Event on Wednesday, September 20th, and sponsoring the 30th IFSCC Congress in Munich, with this year’s NYSCC Educational Program and Suppliers’ Day winners scoring comp tickets to attend the event and be immersed in its theme, Cosmetics: Science for Beauty and Lifestyle.

Coming up in October on the evening of the 17th in New York City, we will be hosting a press conference and reception to update our media partners on what is planned for Suppliers’ Day 2019, which takes place May 7th-8th at the Javits Convention Center. We have new programming, reaffirmed old partnerships, and confirmed some new ones. Our plans to expand and enhance our reach continue to be realized, and we thank all committee members for their continued support as we think and act creatively to achieve our goals.

The popular educational symposium about what is new in sustainability (NYSCC Sustainable Cosmetic Science Seminar) will take place on October 23rd at one of our Chapter’s favorite venues, The Chart House in Weehawken, NJ. Marc Cornell is the symposium chair.

A lot more is in store for our chapter members as we finish out the year with another fantastic educational event planned on November 7th entitled NYSCC Skin Barrier Disruption and Inflammation Seminar, which is chaired by Carine Mainzer. Of course, the year cannot end without a special event planned in December to coincide with the SCC’s 72nd Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase. Stay tuned for details as planning has just begun. In the meantime, sit back, relax, and enjoy the last bit of Summer, because the NYSCC has you covered!

Upcoming 2018 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org September 12 NYSCC Symposium: Extending Your Invisible Umbrella – Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel, Iselin, NJ September 20 NYSCC Culinary Event – Midtown Loft & Terrace, New York, NY October 23 NYSCC Sustainable Cosmetic Science Seminar – Chart House, Weehawken, NJ

COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com 2

November 7 NYSCC Skin Barrier Disruption and Inflammation Seminar – Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ

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Call for Papers

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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice.

Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor.

Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

Like, Connect & Tweet About Us!

FACEBOOK: NEW YORK LINKED IN: NEW YORK SCC TWITTER: @NYSCC INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS These connections are possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee

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• 100% n derived • No eye i • High-fo • EO-free, EO free • Biodegr

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NYSCC Symposium: Extending Your Invisible Umbrella n Event

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(Continued from page 1)

Committee

Event Chair: Abhijit Bidaye (Croda Inc.) • Abhijit.Bidaye@croda.com Co-chair: Giorgino Macalino (Croda Inc.) • giorgino.macalino@croda.com Scholarships: Daphne Benderly (Presperse) and Yelena Zotolorsky n Agenda

8:30 – 9:00 a.m. Registration and Breakfast 9:00 – 9:10 a.m. Introduction – Abhijit Bidaye (Croda Inc.) 9:10 – 9:40 a.m. Skin Health and Sun Exposure – Laurie Joseph, Ph.D. (Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy at Rutgers University) 9:40 – 10:10 a.m. Sunscreen Regulations in the USA – Nadim Shaath, Ph.D. (Alpha Research and Development) 10:10 – 10:30 a.m. Q&A with Coffee Break 10:30 – 11:00 a.m. Formulating Zinc Oxide Under the Current FDA Labeling Requirement – Carolyn Ortiz (Kobo) 11:00 – 11:30 a.m. Enhanced Protection in Sun Care: UV and Beyond – Rhythm Sharma (Croda Inc.) 11:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Blue Light: Extending the Horizon of Sun Protection into the Blue – Luciana Uttembergue (DSM) 12:00 – 1:30 p.m. Lunch 1:30 – 2:00 p.m. Formuating with Zinc Oxide – Juan Brito (BASF) 2:00 – 2:30 p.m. Particulates Offering Multifunctional Benefits—Boosting UV Perfromance and Soft Focus – Kristina Kannheiser (Presperse) and Daphne Benderly, Ph.D. (Presperse) 2:30 – 2:45 p.m. NYSCC Announcements 2:45 – 3:15 p.m. UPF: How Protected Are You? – Kacie Murdoch (CRL Suncare) 3:15 – 3:45 p.m. UV and Sun Health, Behavioral Insights from Wearable UV Dosimetry – Peter Kaplan, Ph.D. (Shade) 3:45 – 4:00 p.m. Q&A and Concluding Remarks – Abhijit Bidaye (Croda Inc) n Registration

• SCC members: $35 • Non-SCC members: $70 • Students: $10 • Emeritus members: free Please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website to register: www.nyscc.org. n Location

Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel 515 US Highway 1 South, Iselin, NJ • Tel: (732) 634-3600 4

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Speaker Abstracts and Biographies

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Chair – Abhijit Bidaye

bhijit Bidaye is the Applications Team Leader – Beauty Effects at Croda Inc. During his 21-year career in the personal care industry, he has spent 19 years of his employment on the supply side of the industry with Croda Inc. in the area of both skin care and hair care. His current focus is on Sun Care and Color Cosmetics. Abhijit obtained an M.S. in Cosmetic Science from University of Cincinnati and a B.S. in Pharmacy from University of Pune, India. _____________________________________________

Skin Health and Sun Exposure – Laurie Joseph, Ph.D. (Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy at Rutgers University)

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our skin is considered the window to your soul. It is a protective barrier which is constantly under chemical and physical attack from the environment. As we age, the skin loses its ability to ward off toxins from entering our bodies.

In this presentation we will first discuss basic skin structure and function and then examine the effects of sun as an agent of extrinsic skin aging. Finally, we will explore how aging and sun exposure may lead to structural damage and skin dysfunction. n Laurie

Processing Services

Joseph, Ph.D.

for dry powders

Dr. Laurie Joseph has over 35 years of experience in Toxicology having developed clinical and in vitro human models as well as in vivo animal models to understand the fundamentals of environmental damage and cellular response. She received a B.S. in Geology from The George Washington University, M.S. and Ph.D. from The Ohio State University, and post-doctoral training at Yale University and the University Connecticut Medical Center. For the past 30 years, she been involved in the study of wound repair in skin and vascular tissue including over 15 years of experience in the skin care industry. Laurie is a member of numerous organizations including the Personal Care Products Council biotech and chemistry subcommittees of the International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient Committee, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and an associate member of the American Academy of Dermatology. Prior to coming to Rutgers University, she was the senior skin biologist for Croda Inc. (USA), a world leader in specialty chemicals for personal care, pharmaceutical, home, and industrial use. Laurie has over 40 peer reviewed publications and has been an investigator on numerous nationally funded and intermural awards. Currently, she is a faculty member in the Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy at Rutgers University developing in vivo, in vitro, and clinical models of skin wound repair and preparation of topical formulations for the Rutgers/UMDNJ CounterACT Center for Excellence Pharmaceutics and Chemistry Core active pharmaceutical ingredients group. _____________________________________________

Fine & Ultra Fine Milling Technologies for Bases, Face Powders, and Pigments.

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Sunscreen Regulations in the USA – Nadim Shaath, Ph.D. (Alpha Research and Development)

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he lack of adequate regulations still festers in the land and is not being properly addressed by the FDA nor the recently approved Sunscreen Innovation Act (SIA). More than three years after it was signed into law by President Barack Obama, the SIA was supposed to amend the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act to establish an expedited process for the review and approval of over-the-counter (OTC) sunscreens. Since 1999, the FDA has not approved a single new active ingredient in sunscreens despite the fact that at least a half dozen other UV filters exist in Europe and the rest of the world that adequately protect against UVA radiation. The SIA created a process through which sunscreen manufacturers could get the so-called eight pending TEA (Time and Extent Applications) approved through an administrative order, and that order would then be added to the Final Monograph. When the FDA was finally forced by SIA to approve the ingredients that were introduced over a dozen years through the TEA process, they summarily rejected all eight! Further, the FDA proposed additional complicated and controversial testing for adopting new ingredients into the U.S. market. Now, the U.S. Congress is debating an amended OTC (Continued on page 6)

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bill that will presumably incorporate the SIA and the eight pending filters and be merged with the OTC Reform Act. sensiva® – multifunctional additives designed for your innovation euxyl® – optimum preservation according to your needs

1-888-267-4220

n Nadim

Shaath, Ph.D.

Dr. Nadim Shaath received his Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry from the University of Minnesota. He then joined the faculty at the State University of New York (SUNY) at Purchase and served as the Chairman of the Chemistry Department at SUNY-Purchase. He was the President and CEO of KATO Worldwide, a flavor, fragrance, sunscreen, and essential oil company, and is currently the President of Alpha Research and Development, a research, sourcing, and product development company in the fields of essential oils and sunscreens. Alpha has laboratories and warehouse facilities in White Plains, New York and Lincoln Park, New Jersey. Alpha promotes proprietary essential oils from Egypt and Tunisia. _____________________________________________

Formulating Zinc Oxide Under the Current FDA Labeling Requirement – Carolyn Ortiz (Kobo)

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he primary and secondary particle sizes of zinc oxide (ZnO) have been shown to have a great effect on its attenuation of UVA and UVB. However, their effect on the critical wavelength (CW) has not been studied thoroughly, and this understanding is needed for achieving a CW of 370 nm for claiming broad spectrum protection. In this work, ZnO of various particle sizes were tested as sole or cosunscreen actives. It is clear that the particle size of ZnO has a strong impact on its UVA and UVB attenuation pattern. Unlike in vivo testing where an optimal size range exists for a high UVA score, CW always increases as size becomes larger. When combined, organic sunscreens in high SPF products’ optimal particle size for in vivo score was found not to be as effective for critical wavelength and very large particle size needs to be used for achieving broad spectrum protection. However, when ZnO is used combination with titanium dioxide (TiO2), a broad spectrum SPF 30+ product can be readily formulated. After all, due to the particulate nature of ZnO, the effect of size on SPF, CW, and aesthetics should be considered in formulation strategy. n Carolyn

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PROTAMERS

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Ortiz

Carolyn Ortiz graduated from Rutgers University, New Brunswick with a B.A in Biological Sciences.

She is an Associate Scientist within the Technical Services and R&D department at Kobo Products, Inc. with experience in compiling raw material profiles, validating purity compliance (including global sunscreen requirements), and supporting marketing claims. She is also responsible for preparing and maintaining Safety Data Sheets (SDS). _____________________________________________

Enhanced Protection in Sun Care: UV and Beyond – Rhythm Sharma (Croda Inc.)

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he short-term damaging effects of UV radiation to skin are well recognized by the reddening, blistering, and burning that occurs as a result of over exposure to sunlight. New regulations for sunscreens have built on the requirement for good UVB protection (Sun Protection Factor) by including the requirement for UVA protection. In Europe, the minimum UVA protection is one third of the total SPF, while in the U.S. the FDA has incorporated the 370 nm critical wavelength test into regulation. The long-term effects of exposure to UVA radiation have been linked to skin aging, wrinkling, and vascular and lymphatic damage.

More recently, scientific investigations have focused on the effects of longer wavelength radiation, such as high energy visible light (HEV) and infrared radiation absorption by skin. This talk presents results to demonstrate the effects of UVA, UVB, and HEV light absorption on synthetic skin substitutes using a novel technique based on electron spin resonance (ESR) spectroscopy. Skin substitutes, containing the ESR spin trap DMPO, were placed in an ESR chamber and irradiated with band widths of light across the UV and HEV spectrum. Skin protected by an inorganic UVA filter showed a 70% reduction in the formation of the protein radical-adduct compared to skin protected by the same sunscreen

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composition without UV filter.

Infrared radiation has become of interest due to studies highlighting the contribution it plays in accelerated skin ageing and oxidative stress. The final part of this talk aims to dissect the contribution infrared radiation plays on biomarkers of molecular damage when compared to complete solar light using primary human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Interestingly, keratinocytes and fibroblasts demonstrate cell dependent differences to damage induced by infrared radiation, particularly oxidative damage. Initial data suggests that different cell types in the skin have different sensitivities to wavelengths within the solar spectrum and knowing these will allow better complete skin protection to be developed for the future. n Rhythm

Sharma

Rhythm Sharma is an Applications Scientist within the R&D Personal Care department at Croda Inc. She is responsible for developing prototypes and providing technical support for Croda’s sun care technologies. In addition, she is responsible for conducting claims testing to support new or existing product development. Prior to joining Croda, Rhythm worked as a Product Robustness Scientist at Johnson and Johnson where she analyzed the wetting and physicochemical properties, and developed rapid screening models, to evaluate products for optimum stability, aesthetics, and performance. Rhythm holds a B.S. degree in Chemical Engineering from Rutgers University. _____________________________________________

Blue Light: Extending the Horizon of Sun Protection into the Blue – Luciana Uttembergue (DSM)

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verybody knows how important it is to protect our skin from the sun's harmful UV rays: but what about the harmful effects of blue light rays? Skin today is increasingly exposed to stress from many sources. Consumers are exposed to blue light every day, and nearly everywhere—whether from the sun or, increasingly, as artificial light from electronic devices. Blue light is a color in the visible light spectrum that can be seen by the human eye and is responsible for the blue of the sky. It is adjacent to ultraviolet in the spectrum of sunlight, high energy, and has a wavelength ranging from 400 to 500 nm.

In recent years, blue light has come indoors, where it is emitted by electronic devices such as smartphones, tablets, and TV screens, and the effects of this exposure on skin are still relatively unknown. However, new research shows blue light from our electronic devices can have adverse effects on skin that are similar to sun damage. This new evidence presents an important opportunity for the personal care market as very few commercial products currently exist to address this claim.

n Luciana

Uttembergue

Luciana, a Brazilian national, holds a degree in Chemistry and Cosmetic Technology by Oswaldo Cruz University and an Executive MBA from INSPER, São Paulo, Brazil. She also has a degree in Pharmacy and Biochemistry and has approximately 10 years of experience in the cosmetics industry. Luciana has been with DSM for 5 years and in that time she has been responsible for developing successful cosmetic projects in Latin America. Prior to joining DSM, Luciana worked within the R&D Department of IFF (International Flavors and Fragrances). _____________________________________________

Formuating with Zinc Oxide – Juan Brito (BASF)

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inc oxide is an ingredient known to soothe and protect skin. It is an effective inorganic UV filter and is commonly used in sunscreen formulations because of its ability to protect against both UVA and UVB light, making it a robust broad-spectrum filter. Formulating sunscreens with zinc oxide can also be challenging.

It is critical to obtain a uniform dispersion of zinc oxide for “broad-spectrum” protection, meeting the FDA guideline for the critical wavelength of 370 nm.

Obtaining a stabilized zinc oxide emulsion is also important. Vital tips and tricks to formulate an optimized formulation with zinc oxide will be presented.

(Continued on page 8)

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Brito

Juan Brito is a BASF Chemist specializing in skin care and sun care applications. He provides technical support for customers and formulates marketing concepts with the latest trends. He is experienced in sunscreen formulation and regulations according to the FDA monograph.Previously, Juan worked at Ciba/BASF as a Research Chemist for skin care and sun care product performance. He started his cosmetic chemistry career at Avon as a Laboratory Technician. Juan earned a Bachelor’s of Science in Chemistry from Binghamton University. _____________________________________________

Particulates Offering Multifunctional Benefits— Boosting UV Perfromance and Soft Focus – Kristina Kannheiser (Presperse) and Daphne Benderly, Ph.D. (Presperse)

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here is a great desire to boost the UV performance of a formulation without adding additional UV filters. This desire is driven by cost savings, aesthetic considerations, and regulatory constraints as well as potential for post-production adjustment. In the study to be presented, many different particulates were tested in vitro, and were found to give UV performance boosting properties as compared to a placebo system. Some of these particulates are not traditionally used in sun care applications, but are found in other market segments, providing an opportunity to translate functionality from one segment to another. In addition to UV performance boosting, these powders were evaluated for soft focus potential. Formulations containing these powders were evaluated for reduction of wrinkle appearance using high definition photos from a Visia-CR booth and analyzed using VAESTRO software.

n Kristina

Kannheiser

Kristina Kannheiser is a Technical Service Chemist at Presperse. She has nine years of formulating experience in the cosmetic industry. Prior to Presperse, Kristina worked in contract manufacturing creating finished products for the skin, color, and sun protection markets. Kristina holds an M.S. in Cosmetic Science from Fairleigh Dickenson University and a B.S. in Chemistry from Richard Stockton University.

Currently, she is an adjunct professor at Rutgers University teaching Fundamentals of Personal Care Science and well as Personal Care Science Lab at the graduate level.

n Daphne

Benderly, Ph.D.

Daphne Benderly is a Technology Manager at Presperse. She has over 20 years of R&D experience in materials engineering as well as in the personal care, polymers, and specialty chemicals industries. She received her doctorate in Materials Engineering from the Technion – Israel Institute of Technology and a B.S. in Mechanical Engineering from Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Daphne has organized several NYSCC technical symposia and is currently heading the NYSCC sponsorship committee. _____________________________________________

UPF: How Protected Are You? – Kacie Murdoch (CRL Suncare)

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olar UVR levels in parts of the United States can reach extreme UV index levels, especially during summer. Everyday items, particularly clothing, should ideally have SPFs of at least 40-50 for adequate all-day protection of people with fair skin. A major step towards quantifying the benefits of textile UV protection is the calculation of an ultraviolet protection factor (UPF). A relatively new rating designation for sun protective textiles, it represents the ratio of sunburn-causing UV transmittance (UVA and UVB), which indicates how much of the sun's UV radiation is absorbed by the fabric.

We investigated five categories of popular outdoor products to assess their UPF rating; sunglasses, hats, umbrellas, tents, and window shades revealed robust, reproducible absorbance data that can better inform consumers so that they may make better informed decisions to protect themselves

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and their families from dangerous UV radiation. Manufacturers of these products make a variety of anti-UV claims, but products within each of these categories exhibit considerable variation in material, color, and thickness. All of these are factors can impact a product’s ability to absorb UVR. With more than 20 years of experience in the sun care product testing industry, CRL put these claims to the test using a proprietary UPF testing protocol to examine the performance of several products in each of these categories. Our goal is to increase awareness about the importance of moving beyond typical outdoor garment testing. We hope this data will encourage manufacturers to develop products with higher UV absorbing potential and empower consumers to purchase products that exhibit high UPF ratings. n Kacie

Murdoch

Kacie Murdoch is currently Lab Manager at CRL SunCare, LLC, where she directs clinical testing and evaluation of sunscreen formulations. She has 12+ years of experience in formulation development and clinical science having previously worked at Unilever for 10 years. Kacie has led the company through a successful expansion and move, along with championing its current best ever growth. She is passionate about delivering robust clinical study design and providing reports with a maximum degree of integrity. _____________________________________________

UV and Sun Health, Behavioral Insights from Wearable UV Dosimetry – Peter Kaplan, Ph.D. (Shade)

With strong roots, we’re green and growing.

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lthough ultraviolet light is considered the leading environmental cause of skin aging and skin cancer, most reports of consumer UV behavior are noninstrumental, based on interviews and surveys. The advent of accurate, connected, and affordable UV dosimetry makes it possible to observe actual consumer behavior including variations in day-to-day exposure, the number and duration of exposure events, and the real-time collection of data on sunscreen use.

In this talk we will review available instruments and standards as well as instrument accuracy and approaches for their use. We will then review clinical experience from studies conducted using the Shade system. Study 1, conducted at Northwestern University, compared the accuracy of surveys to wearable data. Results indicate that recollection is often inaccurate, erring on the side of recalling exposure events that did not happen as often as forgetting events that did.

We will also preview some preliminary data on the distribution of daily exposures from Study 2, which is ongoing at Weill Cornell. These will be compared to the behavior of consumers who purchase and use personal UV dosimetry as a tool to manage their exposure. The populations these data report on are strongly UV avoidant for reasons of personal health (prior treatment for melanoma, cancer scares, and photosensitivity due to autoimmune disease). Nevertheless, UV binges are commonly observed.

In addition, the time of day of peak UV exposure is generally separated by several hours from the time of morning grooming when sun protection is usually routinely applied, a fact with obvious implications for sun health. We conclude by reviewing key gaps in consumer data including behavior of children and healthy adults as well as stratification by skin type and ethnicity. We are at the beginning of harnessing the potential of wearable devices to inform and improve our UV health.

n Peter

It’s only Bio.Logical. to contact us: (800) 223-7054 acme-hardesty.com

D. Kaplan, Ph.D.

Peter has spent the last twenty years in industry deploying his training in optics, physics, and biophysics for medical devices, diagnostics, and skin and hair care in research ranging from fundamental thermodynamics to molecular computing and the analysis of metabolomes. At Shade, he has helped develop grant funding and a quality system, and is responsible for the design and execution of clinical studies. He previously worked, researched, or studied at the University of Pennsylvania, NEC Research, Unilever, and three startups.

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Committed to technology, formulation and superior nation-wide distribution.

800.296.4942 LincolnFineIngredients.com 50 Industrial Cr., Lincoln, R.I., 02865

NYSCC Sustainable Cosmetic Science Seminar October 23, 2018 • 4:00 – 8:00 p.m.

Chart House, Weehawken, NJ

Nature’s Power and Man’s Wisdom.™

www.BotanicalsPlus.com

Event Chair: Marc Cornell • mcornell@mar-keyconsulting.com

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ustainability is good for life, and business! The cosmetic industry has seen many trends over the years.

By definition, this current global consumer driven sustainability push is here to stay. Everything is on the table now. Cosmetic chemists need to know about blacklisted materials, Proposition 65, and other hot buttons, all while continuing to provide innovative cost effective cosmetics that catch the consumer’s eye.

Our sustainability seminar will focus on two topics: sustainable cosmetic actives produced via biofermentation and how we formulate with the latest green functional materials so we meet the “free from” no-no list that continues to grow.

n Agenda

4:00 – 4:30 p.m. Registration 4:30 – 5:30 p.m. Enhancing Cosmetic and Therapeutic Ingredient Development Through Sustainable Fermentation Technologies – James V. Gruber, Ph.D. (Jeen International) 5:30 – 7:00 p.m. Cocktail hour/dinner 7:00 – 8:00 p.m. Greener Formulation Options – Christopher Johnson (Kinetik Technologies) n Registration

Please visit the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org) to register.

Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.

n Intern in Cosmetic Chemistry COSMAX USA • Ridgefield Park, NJ n Mascara – Liquid Eyeliner Chemist COSMAX USA • Ridgefield Park, NJ

n Color Cosmetic Chemist VMP Cosmetics • Southern California

n Quality Assurance Manager ACCI Specialty Materials • Linden, NJ n Senior R&D Chemist PhytogenX, Inc. • Morgantown, PA 10

n Specialist – Technical Information Shiseido Group USA • East Windsor, NJ n Customer Service Representative Sudarshan Chemical Industries, Ltd. Northern NJ or Philadelphia region n Formulation Chemist Bentley Labs • Edison, NJ n Sales Account Manager Sensient • Northeast U.S.

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NYSCC Skin Barrier Disruption and Inflammation Seminar November 7, 2018 • 4:00 – 8:00 p.m.

Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ

Event Chair: Carine Mainzer, Ph.D. • c.mainzer@silabinc.com

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oin us on November 7th for our Skin Barrier Disruption and Inflammation Seminar hosted at the Valley Regency and sponsored by Silab! Learn about cellular communication underlying barrier breakage and topical therapies for atopic dermatitis. Two experts, including keynote speaker Dr. Peter Elias, will address the importance of lipids, lipid signaling, and cell-to-cell communication for providing solid barrier function and participating in cutaneous defenses.

We are looking forward to seeing you at this event hosted at the Valley Regency in Clifton, New Jersey.

Special gratitude goes to our sponsor Silab. Please contact Carine Mainzer (c.mainzer@silabinc.com) for sponsorship opportunities. n Agenda

4:00 – 4:30 p.m. Registration 4:30 – 5:30 p.m. Upon Barrier Breakage and Bacterial Invasion, How Do Skin Cells Communicate to Immune Effectors?

– Carine Mainzer, Ph.D. (Silab, Inc.) 5:30 – 7:00 p.m. Cocktail hour/dinner 7:00 – 8:00 p.m. Topical Therapy for Atopic Dermatitis: Occlusive Moisturizers Versus Physiologic Lipid Barrier Repair Approaches – Peter M. Elias, M.D. (University of California San Francisco) n Registration

Please visit the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org) to register.

Make note of it…

Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

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ENJOY SUCCESSFUL PARTNERSHIPS Brenntag Specialties, Inc. 1 Cragwood Road, Suite 302 South Plainfield, NJ 07080 Phone: 800 732-0562 Fine Ingredients, Minerals, Colors, Surface Treatments, Proteins, Powders

www.brenntagspecialties.com

Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.

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