APRIL 2018 • Vol. 24 No. 4
New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists
www.nyscc.org
Multi-targeted Delivery Strategy to Eliminate Dark Spots …by Martha L. Vázquez-González, Lucyanna Barbosa-Barros, and Olga López
INTRODUCTION
S
kin pigmentation results from the synthesis and distribution of melanin in the skin. Increased melanin production is a result of either UV exposure or various disorders. The resulting dark spots, also called age spots, are permanent and increase over time with aging, being one of the main concerns of middle-aged women all over the world.1 There are several active ingredients that minimize these processes; however, most of them present serious limitations of use often related to their efficacy and safety. Some active ingredients are very aggressive and cause irritation. Some skin lightening agents can also be unspecific, causing depigmentation in areas that are not hyperpigmented, whereas others do not reach the desired site of action and lack efficacy.2 An efficient treatment to eliminate dark spots should promote penetration of the active ingredients to the site of action to prevent and block the principal processes involved in the formation, transport, and elimination of melanin. It is also very important that the treatment be specific to the hyperpigmented areas in order to unify skin tone. Finally, the treatment should be respectful to the skin’s microstructure and maintain tissue health.
MULTI-TARGETED DELIVERY STRATEGY Bicosome is a skin delivery technology formed by two structures: internal smart disks that can incorporate different active ingredients, plus an external vesicle that encloses the disk structures as shown in Figure 1A. Bicosome structures are able to penetrate the skin, target
Figure 1: (A) Cryo-TEM (transmission electron microscopy) image of a bicosome (bar = 200 nm), (B) mechanism of bicosome penetration and delivery of actives into the skin, and (C) multi-target action of Bicowhite designed to block five main processes involved in the formation of dark spots. (Continued on page 4)
C O S M E T I C S I N T H E M I D D L E E A S T: A R E G U L AT O R Y P E R S P E C T I V E A p r i l 2 5 • L i b e r t y S c i e n c e C e n t e r, J e r s e y C i t y, N J