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MARCH 2019 • Vol. 25 No. 3

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists

www.nyscc.org

University Cosmetic Science Programs

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…by Steve Herman

o you know how many university level cosmetic science programs exist? Do you know what makes each of them unique, and the type of research they do? Do you even know what constitutes an education in cosmetic science? In 1948, Dr. Curt P. Wimmer described his long-term efforts “to offer special courses of instruction in the composition, manufacture, and action of toilet preparations given as extension courses in the form of evening classes in the Columbia University College of Pharmacy.”1 Dr. Wimmer saw cosmetic formulation evolve into a scientific discipline during his time as a teacher at Columbia University, but believed a comprehensive education in cosmetics would require an interdisciplinary approach involving pharmacy and chemistry. In 2019, cosmetic science continues to be divided between these two areas.

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In the early 1980s, Fairleigh Dickinson University established what may have been the first degree program in cosmetic science, not merely a course or two added to the curriculum of the pharmacy school. The required courses and electives were determined in close cooperation with the NYSCC. Dr. Salvatore Gimelli of Fairleigh Dickinson University and David Steinberg of the NYSCC were responsible for the development of the program. Fairleigh Dickinson University began by offering an M.A. in Cosmetic Science, but that has since evolved into an M.S. in Cosmetic Science. The strength of Fairleigh Dickinson University’s program lies in its close ties to the NYSCC, its proximity to the center of the cosmetic and fragrance industry in Northern (Continued on page 4)

C O S M E T I C S C I E N C E I N A C A D E M I A S Y M P O S I U M March 13 • The Bethwood, Totowa, NJ


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2019 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Sonia Dawson chair@nyscc.org

CHAIR-ELECT Gino Macalino chair-elect@nyscc.org

TREASURER Stephen Carter treasurer@nyscc.org

TREASURER-ELECT Mohamed Abdulla treasurer-elect@nyscc.org

SECRETARY Roumelia Alina-Balbastro secretary@nyscc.org

ADVISOR Cathy Piterski advisor@nyscc.org

HOUSE Suzanne Dawis house@nyscc.org

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Letter from the Chair

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…Sonia Dawson

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ith the latest cold spell and storms bringing snow and ice, it’s hard to imagine that spring is just a few short weeks away! But as we enjoy more daylight and start thinking ahead to all of the activities planned for the coming months, I can honestly say that “spring fever” is setting in! February’s hot topic did not disappoint! Organized by Joe Dallal, Exploring Designs in Hair Care Formulation Development took place at the Chart House in Lincoln Harbor and was attended by an energized, standing-room only crowd! March’s program is Cosmetic Science in Academia. It will take place on Wednesday, March 13th at The Bethwood. The half-day program will take a deep dive into personal care and cosmetic science offerings at a variety of universities. Chaired by Steve Herman, this event will provide information about different programs and will explore what it takes to get an education, at all levels, in cosmetic and personal care science. The event will also include poster sessions, networking opportunities, and more! Be sure to check the NYSCC Events Page to learn about upcoming programs on the microbiome and color cosmetics, as well as the full slate of education that will take place in conjunction with Suppliers’ Day during the week of May 6th. We aim to satiate the technical appetite of our members, and know that you will not be disappointed! Registration for all NYSCC Suppliers’ Day programs is now open (https://r1.events-registration.com/ SuppliersDay2019/). Be sure to take advantage of early bird savings on select educational programs by registering today! The pre-day SCC CEP programs kick off 70+ hours of education on May 6th at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York City. The exposition is open May 7th-8th with non-stop programs and special events. Review the “schedule-at-a-glance” for details (http://nyscc.org/suppliers-day/attend/ program-schedule/). Suppliers’ Day exhibitors from all over the world are updating their show guide descriptions, listings, and new product offerings. We urge you to visit the site and map out your visit in advance—this will ensure that you spend your time at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center as effectively and efficiently as possible! Last but not least, there are many ways for you to be involved and to get the full benefit of your SCC membership. Don’t hesitate to reach out to me about opportunities of interest! See you on March 13th at our next event!

Open Position

PROGRAM Susanna Fernandes fernandes.susie@gmail.com

COMMUNICATIONS Andrea Gafford webmaster@nyscc.org

SPECIAL EVENTS Amy Marshall amy.marshall@altana.com

NYSCC Sponsorship Opportunities The NYSCC Sponsorship Committee is proud to invite interested parties to sponsor NYSCC educational events throughout the year. Sponsorship Committee: Yelena Zolotarsky (yelenazol@gmail.com) and Daphne Benderly (dbenderly@presperse.com) For more information, please visit: http://nyscc.org/sponsorship-opportunities/

COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

Like, Connect & Tweet About Us!

COSMETISCOPE ASSISTANT EDITOR Susan Doose sbdoose@googlemail.com

COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com

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FACEBOOK: NEW YORK SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS

LINKED IN: NEW YORK SCC

TWITTER: @NYSCC

INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN

These connections are possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee

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Upcoming 2019 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org March 13 NYSCC Cosmetic Science in Academia Symposium, The Bethwood, Totowa, NJ May 7-8 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

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University Cosmetic Science Programs

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(Continued from page 1)

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New Jersey, and its strong core of adjunct professors who combine abstract knowledge with practical industry experience.2 Other cosmetic science programs have since been established, each with a unique set of offerings. The University of Cincinnati program is located within the James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy.3 It offers an online M.S. in Cosmetic Science, an online Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Science, on-site M.S. and Ph.D. degrees, and a B.S.-M.S. (4+1) program. The B.S.-M.S. dual degree program consists of a B.S. in Chemistry or Biology from the University of Cincinnati College of Arts & Sciences and an M.S. in Cosmetic Science from the James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy (the B.S. is on-site; the M.S. is online). Rutgers University offers a Master’s of Business and Science (MBS) degree, which requires students to take 24 credits in the sciences and 19 credits in business.4 According to the program’s website, “Students will learn the fundamentals and applications of personal care chemistry and formulation—including raw materials, bioactives, emulsions, hair biology, skin biology, and function—with opportunities to take courses in fragrances, regulatory affairs, sustainability, and colloid chemistry. Students will also develop skills in finance and accounting, marketing, communication and leadership, management of science and technology, ethics, and entrepreneurship.” The University of Toledo offers a B.S. in Pharmaceutical Sciences, Cosmetic Science, and Formulation Design.5 It is the only dedicated undergraduate program in the field. Rounding out the opportunities available in the United States, The Fashion Institute of Technology offers a program in Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing, and Long Island University provides students with the option of an M.S. in Pharmaceutics with specialization in Cosmetic Science.6,7 Long Island University Hudson also has an online program with a cosmetic science focus.8 We have come a long way from where Dr. Wimmer found himself in 1948—a lone professor searching for a true academic home for cosmetic science. Our March meeting features Steve Herman from Fairleigh Dickinson University, Dr. Kavssery Ananthapadmanabhan from the University of Cincinnati, Dr. Gabriella Baki of the University of Toledo, and Abbe Rosenthal of Rutgers University. The agenda for the March event guarantees a representative exploration of cosmetic science in academia. The event will also feature a poster session from students conducting research on topics related to cosmetic science and personal care.

References 1. C.P. Wimmer, Educational requirements of a cosmetic chemist, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 1, 210-213 (1948). 2. https://view2.fdu.edu/academics/university-college/school-of-natural-sciences/academic-programs/msin-cosmetic-science/ 3. https://pharmacy.uc.edu/program-information/graduate/cosmetic 4. https://mbs.rutgers.edu/program/personal-care-science 5. http://www.utoledo.edu/pharmacy/academic_programs/bspharmsciprograms/bsps-cosmetic.html 6. http://www.fitnyc.edu/cfm/index.php 7. http://liu.edu/Pharmacy/Academic-Programs/Graduate/MS-Pharmaceutics-CS 8. http://www.liu.edu/Hudson/Academics/Pharmaceutics 4

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NYSCC Cosmetic Science in Academia Symposium March 13 • 11:30 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. The Bethwood, Totowa, NJ Event chair: Steve Herman (steveh50@optonline.net)

Symposium Agenda 11:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Registration 12:00 – 1:00 p.m. Lunch – Student Posters 1:00 – 1:15 p.m. What is Cosmetic Education? – Steve Herman 1:15 – 1:30 p.m. Cosmetic Science at Long Island University Hudson – Arvind Shah 1:30 – 2:10 p.m. Cosmetic Science at the University of Cincinnati – Kavssery Ananthapadmanabhan, Ph.D. 2:10 – 2:30 p.m. Break 2:30 – 3:10 p.m. Cosmetic Science at the University of Toledo – Gabriella Baki, Ph.D. 3:10 – 3:40 p.m. Personal Care Science at Rutgers University – Abbe Rosenthal 3:40 – 4:00 p.m. Poster Presentations and Awards – Robert Fuller, Ph.D., Poster Committee Chair

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NYSCC Cosmetic Science in Academia Symposium

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(Continued from page 5)

Speaker Abstracts and Biographies

What is Cosmetic Education? – Steve Herman

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he first cosmetic science courses were offered at Fairleigh Dickinson University in 1982, making FDU’s program one of the oldest in the country. In this presentation, we discuss how the inaugural curriculum was developed under the leadership of Dr. Salvatore Gimelli and in cooperation with the NYSCC. We then examine a broader question: what is an education in cosmetic science? Clearly, cosmetic science has a vocational component as well as a purely academic one. We also consider the difference between B.S., M.S., and Ph.D. level programs. In addition, we address the presence of many adjunct professors in these programs and the different values that tenured and adjunct professors bring to the learning process. Finally, we consider the differences between live, in-classroom courses and increasingly popular online courses. n Steve

Herman

Steve Herman is President of Diffusion LLC, a consulting firm specializing in regulatory issues, intellectual property, and technology development. He served as an Adjunct Professor in the FDU Cosmetic Science Program from 1993-2016, teaching the Cosmetic Formulation Lab and Perfumery. He currently teaches an online fragrance course for the University of Cincinnati. Steve was a columnist for GCI Magazine for 17 years and wrote a book, Fragrance Applications: A Survival Guide. His SCC activities include service as Chairman of the New York Chapter in 1992 and 2013, election to Fellow status in 2002, and his work as an instructor in the Continuing Education Program. _____________________________________________

Cosmetic Science at Long Island University – Hudson – Arvind Shah

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he heavy concentration of pharmaceutical companies, health-related institutions, and cosmetics manufacturers in the New York Metropolitan area provides unusual opportunities for both study and practical experience. Cosmetic Science at Long Island University – Hudson offers students a convenient location and schedule. Its committment to excellence in teaching, together with its highly regarded program, makes Long Island University – Hudson at Rockland an ideal location for students pursuing careers in industrial pharmacy and cosmetic science. The graduate programs at Long Island University – Hudson are designed to provide the theoretical and conceptual framework that is necessary in advanced studies, and to promote the development of specific skills in various areas of pharmaceutical and cosmetic development and manufacture. Consequently, the programs have two major objectives: to equip students with the tools they need to succeed in research and to enable career advancement. Curricula are evaluated at regular intervals to ensure that they reflect current industry trends and emphases in medical and health-care practices. Students take part in both didactic and experiential programs in order to prepare them for leadership positions in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. n Arvind

Shah

Arvind is currently a Sr. Research Technical Coordinator in the R&D laboratory at Micro Powders, Inc. He is also an Adjunct Professor at Long Island University, Purchase Campus. Arvind has a total of 30 years of experience in the cosmetic industry working at companies, such as Revlon, P&G, and Avon, in different areas of cosmetic formulation. Arvind is the recipient of Avon’s prestigious Chairman Award. He holds 16 U.S. patents in all forms of cosmetics products. He holds an M.A. in Cosmetic Science from Fairleigh Dickinson University and a B.S. in Chemistry and M.S. in Organic Chemistry from M S University in India. Arvind has been a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists since 1981 and was awarded Fellow status in 2014. He also served as a board member of the COSA committee of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists from 2015-2017. 6

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Cosmetic Science at the University of Cincinnati – Kavssery Ananthapadmanabhan

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he University of Cincinnati College of Pharmacy has been providing graduate training in Cosmetic Science for more than 40 years. The current program includes the traditional onsite M.S. and Ph.D. programs (M.S./Ph.D. in Pharmaceutical Sciences with a concentration in Cosmetic Science) and an online Graduate Certificate and M.S. degree in Cosmetic Science. Students can choose to take individual classes to enhance their knowledge of specific areas in the cosmetic industry, obtain an online Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Science, or apply to the online Master of Science in Cosmetic Science (30 credit hours) program. The Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Science is a newly developed option that allows students to obtain a matriculated certificate from the University of Cincinnati after completing 12 graduate credits. The credits earned during the certificate program can also be transferred to the M.S. program in the event that the student chooses to apply to and is accepted into the M.S. program. The University of Cincinnati has just launched a new B.S.-M.S. (4+1) program with a B.S. in Chemistry or Biology and M.S. in Cosmetic Science. This accelerated program also includes the opportunity for two industrial internships during the summer months. In addition to its coursework offerings, the University of Cincinnati cosmetic program also includes a strong research component. Research areas include mechanistic understanding of the interaction products/ actives with skin/scalp/hair, biophysical measurements on skin, predictive modeling of penetration and delivery of actives/chemicals through skin, living skin equivalent models, and advanced scattering and spectroscopic characterization of multi-phase formulations. We also work closely with the Dermatology Department at the University of Cincinnati and Cincinnati Children’s Hospital on clinical studies. In addition, we actively collaborate with the Engineering School at the University of Cincinnati on wearable diagnostic technologies for skin. In this presentation, we provide information on the various educational and research programs in cosmetic science available at the University of Cincinnati.

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Dr. Kavssery P. Ananthapadmanabhan (K.P. Ananth) is a Professor and the Director of the Cosmetic Science Program at the University of Cincinnati College of Pharmacy. Ananth obtained his B. Tech. from Indian Institute of Technology in Mumbai. He obtained his M.S. and D. Eng. Sci. degrees from Columbia University in New York, specializing in surfactants and colloids. Ananth spent three years as a post-doctoral fellow and adjunct faculty member at Columbia University before joining Union Carbide Corporation. In 1990, Ananth moved to Unilever R&D, and spent the next 26+ years in various capacities in the personal care area including leading their longer-term skin cleansing research. He is the author/co-author of 120+ publications and 35+ patents. He also co-edited a book with Desmond Goddard titled Interactions of Surfactants with Polymers and Proteins. In 2016, he received Unilever's Lifetime Achievement Award for contributions to science. After retiring from Unilever in (Continued on page 8) 2016, Ananth joined the College of Pharmacy at the University of Cincinnati. V O L U M E

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Cosmetic Science at the University of Toledo – Gabriella Baki

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he University of Toledo College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences offers the nation’s only undergraduate program in Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design. Cosmetic science majors study the art, science, and business of cosmetics. They learn to develop and formulate cosmetics and personal care products. They study regulations and learn how to assess product safety, performance, and quality. University of Toledo students not only study key sciences, but also take business and economics courses, and complete an internship. This gives graduates the flexibility to find careers in formulation development and manufacturing, or the business side of the industry. In addition, students have the opportunity to conduct research, either as part of summer scholarships or an elective course during their undergraduate years. In this presentation, we discuss the main features of the University of Toledo’s undergraduate Cosmetic Science program.

n Gabriella

Baki, Ph.D.

Dr. Gabriella Baki is an Assistant Professor at the University of Toledo College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences. She serves as the program director and primary instructor for various lectures and laboratories in the Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design program. Dr. Baki is a pharmacist. She graduated in 2008 from the University of Szeged, Hungary, and also has a Ph.D. in Pharmaceutics from the same university. Dr. Baki’s research focuses on topical delivery for active ingredients and cosmetic actives as well as sensory testing of products. In silico modeling is used to optimize formulations and select the best ingredients for a particular purpose. Dr. Baki has delivered several technical presentations, and over three dozen poster presentations. Her work includes more than 25 publications. She has also contributed to several book chapters, and has written a book, Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology, published by John Wiley and Sons. _____________________________________________

Personal Care Science at Rutgers University – Abbe Rosenthal

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utgers University’s Master of Business and Science (MBS) degree is a hybrid graduate degree combining an MBA and M.S. The MBS consists of a professionally-guided curriculum, including 24 credits in science and 19 in business for a total of 43 credits. The MBS has three core tracks: Life Sciences, which includes Personal Care Science, Food Science, and many others; Computer Information Sciences; and Engineering Management. The program not only encourages students to round out their science and business coursework, but also to take courses in project management or analytics—two skills necessary for most jobs today. The MBS Personal Care Science program is a highly experiential program that brings students in contact

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with industry leaders, projects, and events to increase their experience in Personal Care/Cosmetic Science, and to help them secure internships and/or full-time jobs. The MBS program provides students with one-onone executive coaching and career development, externship projects from companies, internship opportunities, corporate outreach, expert career panels, and functional panels in personal care to expose students to R&D, product development, regulatory, quality, supply chain, marketing, sales, and other functions across an enterprise. n Abbe

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Rosenthal

Abbe is an Assistant Director for the Master of Business and Science (MBS) program in the Professional Science Master’s Program at Rutgers University. Abbe ran her own executive coaching, training/education, and recruitment firm for 15+ years. Her clients included personal care, consumer product, pharmaceutical, retail, hospitality, manufacturing, and technology companies. She holds a Master’s degree in Applied Industrial/Organizational Psychology and a Bachelor’s degree in Business. _____________________________________________

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Poster Committee Chair

n Robert

Fuller, Ph.D.

Dr. Robert (Bob) Fuller is currently an Adjunct Professor at several institutions (Muhlenberg College, Rutgers University, Farleigh Dickenson University, and Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC) where he teaches courses in Fragrance Applications and Cosmetic Science. He received his Ph.D. in Physical Chemistry from Princeton University and worked for over 20 years in the cosmetic industry (Firmenich, ColgatePalmolive, and Fragrance Manufacturing, Inc.) before pursing his academic interests in 2012. At Muhlenberg College, he leads a team of students investigating fragrance release mechanisms. His course content is publicly available at https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ 1XhpRO7PFqs0EFEfC9TsjzbINNRDGcAYf?usp=sharing.

Event Chair and Poster Committee Member

n Thomas

J. Drwiega

Thomas Drwiega is the Chemistry Lab Coordinator at Fairleigh Dickinson University. He received his Bachelor of Science in Chemistry from Montclair State University in 2006 and is currently completing a Master’s in Cosmetic Science at Fairleigh Dickinson University. He serves as an Adjunct Instructor at Fairleigh Dickinson University in the chemistry labs, teaching General Chemistry, Health Science, and Organic Chemistry. He has been the chair of the Hudson-Bergen Chemical Society since 2015 and has been a member of the NYSCC for the past two years.

Poster Committee Member

n Jacqueline

Mohen

Jacqueline Mohen is a Research Fellow at Rowan University, and is enrolled in the Master of Science program in Pharmaceutical Sciences. She graduated from Philadelphia University in 2014 with a B.S. in Textile Design and Mathematics minor. Her research focuses on applied and computational analysis of measuring the physicochemical properties of molecules with color, cosmetic, or fragrant attributes with applications in consumer products. She has presented at regional and national meetings of the American Chemical Society. Her latest research on color molecules was nominated among the Best Posters of the Physical Chemistry division at the Fall 2018 National Meeting & Exposition. _____________________________________________ n Registration

SCC members: $35 Students: $10 Non-SCC members: $70 Emeritus members: Free Please visit the Events section of the NYSCC website to register: www.nyscc.org. n Location

: The Bethwood

The Bethwood, 38 Lackawanna Avenue, Totowa, NJ • (973) 256-8316 V O L U M E

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Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.

n Senior Staff Scientist – Hair Styling Ashland, Inc. Bridgewater, NJ

n Product Formulation Senior Scientist Mary Kay, Inc. Lewisville, TX n Scientist – Diversified Markets Division Henkel Corporation Stamford, CT

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n Principal Scientist – Skin Care The Estée Lauder Companies Melville, NY

n Account Manager – Business Development Manager – Personal Care Cargill Jersey City, NJ n Formulation Chemist Heat Makes Sense Brooklyn, NY

n Regulatory Affairs – Senior Manager/Director Peter Thomas Roth, Inc. New York, NY n Technical Account Manager Inolex Philadelphia, PA/Northeastern U.S.

n Manager – Make-up The Estée Lauder Companies Melville, NY

n Senior Scientist – Instrumental Evaluation – Skin L’Oréal USA Clark, NJ n Sr. Scientist – TSO The Estée Lauder Companies Melville, NY

n Process Engineer June Jacobs Lab Moonachie, NJ

Call for Papers

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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would ensure your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

Make note of it… Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies that send five or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees must be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.

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